Fibres Fabrics

How do we make fabrics?

Some fibres can be used directly to make fabrics (eg felting)

Most fibres are twisted or spun into yarn before the construction of fabrics

Yarn is a long continuous length of interlocked fibres, suitable for use in the production of textiles, sewing, crocheting, knitting, weaving, embroidery and ropemaking

Types of YarnsYarn type Definition Yarn

CharacteristicsEnd-use Applications

Staple spun yarn

Made from staple fibres – cotton or wool – or manufactured fibres cut into small lengths

•Uneven, weak yarn with poor lustre and durability•Good elasticity, resiliency and absorbency

Apparel and furnishings

Monofilament Yarn

Made from one filament of a manufactured fibre (rayon, polyester, nylon)

•Fine and strong yarn with good lustre and durability•Inelastic, poor resiliency and absorbency

Hosiery and invisible sewing thread

Multifilament Yarn

Made from two or more filaments of a manufactured fibre (rayon, polyester, nylon)

•Even, strong yarn with good lustre and durability•Medium elasticity and resiliency, slightly absorbent

Evening wear and lingerie

Yarn Twist

- The twisting involved is the most important factor in determining the properties of the yarn

- Without twist, the yarn would have no strength

- Can be twisted in clockwise direction (S-twist) or anticlockwise (Z-twist) direction

- Light is reflected in opposite ways and can be used alternately to create lustrous stripes in the fabric

Single Yarn Produced during the first stage of the spinning process

Ply Yarn Formed by twisting two or more single yarns 8 twisted yarns = 8 ply Stronger and thicker than single yarn

Cord Yarn Formed by twisting ply yarns together Very strong

Blended Yarn When two or more different fibre yarns are twisted

together

Let’s have a Yarn!!!!

The manufacturing process:

Once the yarn has been spun or twisted, there are a number of ways to turn it into cloth or fabric. Some examples are:

Weaving Knitting Knotting Felting bonding

Weaving The interlacing of two sets of yarns at right angles

to each other

Lengthwise Grain – WARP

Crosswise Grain - WEFT

Types of WeavesPlain – more interlacing and increased stability and durability

Twill – identified by the diagonal lines in the weave. Yarns are usually spaced closed together creating a strong and most durable fabric (eg. denim, drill)

Satin – yarns float over a number of yarns from the opposite direction. Encourages lustre in the fabric due to the longer interlacings.

Pile – achieved with the use of extra Warp or Weft yarns within the ‘ground’ weave to give thickness and texture. This pile can be left as is or cut depending on the desired result. Increases absorbent abilities.

Refer to page 302 of your textbook for further information.

Knitting

The process of making fabrics by forming rows of interlinked loops of yarn, with each hoop dependent upon another to prevent it from coming undone.

Warp knitting – interlooping along the length of the fabric

- usually in an industrial setting/scale - more stable, less absorbent, less

distortion of fabric

Weft knitting – interlooping across the width of the fabric - can be in an industrial or domestic

setting/scale - less stable, distorts more easily, more

absorbent

Fabric Characteristics

Fabrics can be described by their characteristics or special features. These characteristics should be considered whenever:

- we use fabrics to make textile items for the home

- we want to wear fabrics- we need to wash or clean fabrics

NOTE: Especially when choosing the fabric for your assessment.......

The special characteristics of one particularfibre or fabric will make it more suitable for some jobs than others.

Fabric

Texture Lustre

Strength

Heat Conduction

Elasticity

Moisture Absorbenc

y

Crease Resistanc

e

Flammability

Colour Fastness

Texture

The way a fabric feels Thick or thin Harsh or soft Rough or smooth Stiff or flexible Fine or coarse

Strength

How strong a fabric is Weak (wool) Weak when wet (rayon) Strong (cotton) Stronger when wet (cotton) Very strong (nylon, polyester)

Lustre

How shiny a fabric is Dull/matt (wool) Shiny (poplin) Very shiny (satin)

Moisture Absorbency

How well the fabric will absorb water None (waterproofed) Low (nylon) Holds a lot but absorbs slowly (wool) Very high (cotton, linen)

Elasticity

How well a fibre or fabric will stretch and return to its original shape

Low stretch (twill weave) Will stretch, but won’t go back Stretches and goes back in original

length (lycra)

Resilience is the ability to return to the original form.

Heat Conduction

How a fabric conducts heat Will not conduct heat = warmer to wear

(wool in garments traps heat) Will conduct heat away = cooler to wear

(cotton garments cooler in summer)

Crease Resistance

How well a fabric recovers from creases after washing

Poor (pure cotton, rayon) Average (wool creases fall out) Good recovery (polyester, drip-dry

cottons)

Flammability

How easily a fabric burns Very easily (cotton, rayon, open weaves,

hairy fabrics) Low (polyester, nylon melt) Average (wool) Poor (flame proofed fabrics, asbestos)

Colour Fastness

How well the fabric keeps its colour Fades in the sun (cotton) Fades in sea water and sun (dyes in

lycra) Discolours in the sun (nylon) Some dyes ‘run’ in hot water or with

perspiration