ya magazine (3 feb 2012)

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 Y angon Airwa ys Inflight Magazine Issue 11, Jan-June 2012 D I S C O V E R M Y A N M A R W I T H Y A N G O N A I R W A Y S  www.y angonair .com.mm S w e Sone FUTURE OF  Y ANGON’S COLONIAL ARCHITECTURE BOAT TRIP BAGAN TO BHAMO HAIR STYLES OF MYANMAR WOMEN  MOEYINGYI WILDLIFE SANCTUARY LAPHET AN UNFORGETT ABLE MY ANMAR SNACK FUTURE OF  Y ANGON’S COLONIAL ARCHITECTURE BOA T T RIP BAGAN TO BHAMO HAIR STYLES OF MYANMAR WOMEN MOEYINGYI WILDLIFE SANCTUARY LAPHET AN UNFORGETT ABLE MY ANMAR SNACK 

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 Yangon Airways Inflight Magazine Issue 11, Jan-June 2012

D I S C O V E R M Y A N M A R W I T H Y A N G O N A I R W A Y S

 www.yangonair.com.mm

SweSoneFUTURE OF YANGON’SCOLONIALARCHITECTURE

BOAT TRIPBAGAN TO BHAMO

HAIR STYLES OFMYANMAR

WOMEN

  MOEYINGYI

WILDLIFE SANCTUARY

LAPHETAN UNFORGETTABLE

MYANMAR SNACK 

FUTURE OF YANGON’SCOLONIALARCHITECTURE

BOAT TRIPBAGAN TO BHAMO

HAIR STYLES OFMYANMAR

WOMEN

MOEYINGYI

WILDLIFE SANCTUARY

LAPHETAN UNFORGETTABLE

MYANMAR SNACK 

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16FINDING

INNER PEACEin the Sagaing Hills

by MawMaw San

34NO SUBSTITUTE FOR RELAXING AT THE

  TEASHOP  by Wai Yan Phone

38CRUISING THE

 AYEYARWADYRIVERin luxury

by Steven Selby

26LAPHET,an unforgettable

Myanmar snackby Moe Moe Oo

46FUTURE OF YANGON’S

COLONIAL ARCHITECTUREby Thomas Kean

Corporate Profile .....................10

Horoscope .............................. 82 Yangon Airways Networks ....... 84

Travel Tips .............................. 92

 Agents .....................................93

Flight Schedule ....................... 95

 Yangon Airways Route Map ..... 96

     C

     O     N     T     E     N     T     S

   J   A   N   /   J   U   N   E

   2   0   1   2

REGULARS

FEATURES

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PUBLISHING LICENSECapt. Tin Maung Aye

COVER PERMISSION NO5407360710

EDITOR Capt. Tin Maung Aye

WRITERSMaw Maw San Andrew SherwoodWai Yan Phone Simon AldgateMoe Moe Oo Thomas KeanSan Zarni Bo Steven SelbyZon Pann PwintNan Tin Htwe

COVER PHOTOKo King

PHOTOGRAPHERSAdrian Richardson, Myanmars.netAung Aung (Toe), Htin Aung (Inn Sein),Kyaw Kyaw Win, Buthee,Lin Htun, Ko King, Genius

PRODUCTIONGenius

LAYOUT DESIGNKyaw Khaing,Min Tun Naing

PRINTED IN MYANMAR BYShwe Zin Printing (0368)No. 192, 39th Street, Kyauktada township,Yangon

DISTRIBUTIONYangon Airways

All rights reserved. No part of this publicationmay be reproduced or reprinted withoutthe express writen consent of the publisher.

62MYANMAR

HAIRSTYLESthrough the ages

by Zon Pann Pwint

78  TAI CHItakes root in Kandawgyi Park

by Nan Tin Htwe

70 A BIRTHDAY every week

by Andrew Sherwood

72CHILDEDUCATIONin Myanmarby Maw Maw San

54 A TWITCHER’S PARADISE AT

MOEYINGYIWildlife Sanctuary

by Simon Aldgate

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CORPORATEPROFILE

YangonAirways

CORPORATE PROFILEYangon Airways was established in October 1996as a domestic airline in a joint venture betweenMyanma Airways, the state-owned nationalairline and Krong-Sombat Co., of Thailand. InOctober 1997, MHE-Mayower Co., acquiredKrong-Sombat’s shares in Yangon Airways andsince then the airline has evolved into a principaldomestic airline operating scheduled and charterservices from Yangon to 13 prime commercialand tourist destinations in Myanmar.

CORPORATE POLICYYangon Airways adopts a progressive approachfor upgrading service and performance.Maintaining our eet to the highest standardsof operational readiness, safety and reliability isalways high on the agenda of Yangon Airways.We strongly believe that by taking a greatersense of responsibility in serving our passengers,we will earn their trust and condence.

CORPORATE IDENTITYElephants, in Myanmar history and civilization,are signicant creatures in helping societywith strong and loyal service. They are hardworking and their loyalty to their masters is asoutstanding as their mighty strength. In ourhistory, the elephants are noble animals whichplayed an important role in the developmentof various Myanmar kingdoms. They served as

the royal carriages for all our famous kings. heirservice in the armed forces, and the productionand transportation industries is also signicant inthe development of the nation.

Sin Phyu (the WhiteElephant) is very rare

and Myanmar kings tookgreat pride in possessing Sin

Phyu Taw (the Royal WhiteElephant) as their royal insignia.

They used them as their personal mount forroyal ceremonial occasions and tours. YangonAirways, with the spirit and power of the Sin PhyuTaw enhanced by a pair of wings, will bring theservice and faithfulness of the legendary Sin Phyu

Taw Pyan (the Flying Royal White Elephant) intoMyanmar skies to serve all our valued passengers.

THE FLEETYangon Airways operates new ATR 72-210spowered by Pratt & Whitney PW-127 enginesand tted with state-of-the-art avionics system.The aircraft have an impressive exterior andappealing interior, a highly efcient performanceand extra quiet operating conditions. They are

conguredto carry 70passengerswith 30-inchseat pitch. YangonAirways’ aircraft are maintained to thehighest standards of airworthinessrequirements.

OUR VISIONYangon Airwaysbelieves that efcientcommunication is anessential component ofthe modernworld environment. Better transportation willbring about the smoother ow of trafc and willcontribute to the development of the economicand social well-being of the society in which welive. We shall serve our society and be worthy ofearning fair rewards from it.THE PEOPLE

Yangon Airways employs highly qualiedight and cabin crew as well as ground serviceand maintenance staff. Yangon Airways’employees are thoroughly trained, both in-house and abroad, prior to active duty. YangonAirways pilots constantly keep up their levelof competency with simulator and ighttraining under the supervision of qualiedight instructors. Engineers also update theirknowledge and expertise by attending trainingcourses, technical seminars and operators’conferences. Training programmes for in-ightstaff are designed to meet the objectives of ourservice policy. Our skilled in-ight staff with theircharming personalities, courteous attitudes andtraditional Myanmar hospitality, will make your

 journey a most joyful experience.

SERVICE PHILOSOPHYYangon Airways embraces the Myanmarphilosophy that one’s kindness and affection willbe reected to oneself. Sincerity, politeness andhonesty are unique attributes of the Myanmarpeople. Passengers are the most importantpersons for us. We are for the passengers andwe will give them the most courteous treatment.We are sensitive to the feelings and needs ofour passengers. We are proud of our airline andexpect our passengers will also take pride intravelling with Yangon Airways.

1110 SweSone Yangon Airways Inflight MagazineSweSone Yangon Airways Inflight Magazine

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 Anniversary  Yangon Airways Limited

of 

15th

19 September 2011

Traders Hotel, Yangon

Y

ANGON AIRWAYS held aceremony at Traders Hotel in

Yangon on September 19, 2011,to mark the resumption of flightservice as well as its 15th anniversary.The ceremony started at 6pm attendby people from the tourism sector, journalists and Yangon Airways staff.

Yangon Airways Managing Director UTin Soe gave a speech at the ceremonyin which he mentioned that YangonAirways was established in 1996 as a joint venture between MyanmarAirways and the Krong-SombatCompany of Thailand.

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 Revival    Inaugural Flight  Yangon Airways Limited

 Yangon Airways

Air Operator Certificate and Permit to Operate Awarding Ceremony

of 

14 October 2011

Hotel Yangon

16 October 2011

staff trained locally andabroad. All the passengersare treated as VIPs by theairline, which provides thefinest service, safety andreliability. U Tin Soethanked locals and touristsfor choosing to fly withYangon Airways. After the

speech, the guests wereentertained by Spectrummusic band followed by alucky draw for 39 airtickets. The ceremonyended successfully bytreating the guests todinner.

Since then, Yangon Airways hasbeen flying scheduled and charterflight services to 18 touristdestinations with its two 70-seatATR 72 aircraft. On December 4,2010, it suspended flight servicetemporarily. Yangon Airwaysresumed its flight service onOctober, 16, 2011 and will carry on

operating with experienced pilots,engineers, onboard and ground

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THE town of Sagaing is famousamong people in Myanmar as agood place to escape from the

cacophony of everyday life, a refuge ofpeace for those who are eager to seekinner truth. For local people, it iscelebrated as the gateway to salvation,an ideal place for meditation.

Even though it is located in upperMyanmar and just 30 minutes by car from hot,dusty Mandalay, in Sagaing the weather issurprisingly pleasant. This might have something todo with the fact that the town boasts an abundanceof shade-giving trees and other plant life, andit’s denitely one of the reasons why Sagaing is

a popular destination for daytripsfrom Mandalay.

Mandalay and Sagaing are onopposite banks of the mightyAyeyarwady River, and trips fromone to the other can be made acrosseither the Inwa Bridge, built by theBritish in 1934, or the new spanopened by the government just a

few years ago. It’s a pleasant experience to crossfrom Mandalay to Sagaing in the early morning,with mist rising from the river, shing boats oatingon the water, and farmers working the land on mid-river islands and along the banks.

Sagaing was the capital of the Sagaing kingdom

from 1315 to 1364, one of the minor kingdomsfounded after the fall of the Bagan dynasty in the14th century. During the Ava period (1364-1555),

Sagaing isespecially notedfor its tree-covered hills, which also hostnumerouspagodas,monasteries andnunneries.

Sitagu International Buddhist Academy 

View from Hsoon Oo Pon Nya Shin Pagoda 

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No.93, Tein Phyu Rd., (Lower Block),Botahtaung sp., Yangon.el: (+951) 392974,392975,3982676, 203398,

392956, 392957,Hot Line: (+951) 392962, 203549Email: [email protected]: [email protected]

No. 99/B, Corner of U Wi Zar Ya & Damazedi Road(infront of CB Bank)el: (+951) 514169, (+959) 731 26002, 731 26003, 731 26004

Shwebonthar Road (Middle Block),Near Te KBZ Bank el: (+951) 253526, 377853

G-25/26, 82nd St., Between 26th & 27th St., Mandalay.el: (+952) 30128, 73398, 73346, 24381, 31548, 66442Hot Line: (+952) 72868, 72939

 YANGON HEAD OFFICE YANGON WIZAYA BRANCH

 YANGON SHWEBONTHA BRANCH

MANDALAY BRANCH OFFICE

Main Rd., (Near the Maykhalar Guest House), Nyaung U(Bagan).

el: (+9561) 60883

NYAUNG U BRANCH OFFICE

 AIR TICKETING

HOTEL ACCOMMODATION

PACKAGE TOURS

F.I.T TOURS

GUIDE SERVICE

CAR RENTAL SERVICE

VISA & D-FORM SERVICE

www.sevendiamondtravels.com, www.myanmartravelimformation.com/sevendiamondtours

 SEVEN DIAMOND SEVEN DIAMONDEXPRESS TRAVELS CO.,LTDEXPRESS TRAVELS CO.,LTD

Bogyoke Aung San Road, (Infront of Bogyoke Park), aung Gyi.el: (+9581) 24646, 200933, 200944

TAUNG GYI B RANCH OFFICE

FLYINGBEYOND EXPECTATIONS 

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the city was the common efdom of the crownprince and other senior princes. The city brieybecame the royal capital between 1760 and 1763during the reign of King Naungdawgyi.

Sagaing is especially noted for its tree-covered hills,which also host numerous pagodas, monasteriesand nunneries. It is said that there were originallynine monasteries in the hills, but now there arehundreds of monasteries and nunneries in the area.Life seems to move slowly in Sagaing, which isblanketed by a calm and contemplative atmosphere.

Trafc is minimal and the air is clean. Many peoplestill live in traditional Myanmar thatch-style houses.

On a recent visit to Sagaing, I started by checkingout projects operatedunder the guidanceof the well-knownBuddhist monk SitaguSayadaw. Most ofthese are located inthe Sagaing foothills,including a waterdonation projectstarted in 1980,which distributeswater to about 400buildings withinthe compounds ofmonasteries andnunneries, and the

100-bed Sitagu Aryu Darna Hospital, opened in1990 and offering free food and low-cost medicalcare. Another project sponsored by Sitagu Sayadawis Sitagu International Buddhist Academy, wasopened in 1992. The university provides shelter,food and other necessities for monks dedicated tothe study of Buddhist doctrine.

The monks and nuns residing in the Sagaing Hillsfocus on learning the teachings of Buddha, andmany also dedicate long hours to meditation.Every morning, monks leave their monasteries to

receive offerings of food from the local population.However, since there are so many monks inSagaing, and since the town is so small, some ofthe monks travel across the river to Mandalay to

receive offerings. Theymust return to theirmonasteries by noonfor their last meal ofthe day, after whichthey attend classeson Buddhist doctrine.The day ends withmeditation sessions.

The lives of nuns are abit more challengingwhen compared withmonks. Many nunsmust cook food forthemselves, since it is

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their custom to askfor donations fromthe communityonly around fullmoon. When theydo go into townfor donations,they tend to go inbig groups, withtransport arrangedby sympatheticdonors fromMandalay.

After checking out the projects supported by SitaguSayadaw, I went up into the hills to visit the famousHsoon Oo Pon Nya Shin Pagoda. Locatedon the peak of a 790-foot-high hill, theprecincts offer breathtaking views ofSagaing, the Ayeyarwady River and itstwo bridges, and Mandalay.

Aside from the amazing view, Hsoon OoPon Nya Shin Pagoda is also famous for aparticular legend attached to it: Devoteesclaim that whenever someone tries tooffer meals to the pagoda’s main Buddhaimage on the days of the full moon andnew moon, another offering will alwaysbe there rst. No matter how early onearrives, another fresh offering will alwaysbe in place. It is believed that thesemysterious early donations come from

Until recently thepagoda’s dome was white in colour,but now it has beencovered with goldleaf and sparkles inthe sunlight like somany other stupasin Myanmar.

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 Laphet:an unforgettable

Myanmar snack 

Tea leaves (laphet ywet)  are mostly

grown in Shan State, and the best and

most famous pickled tea leaves in the

country also come from this region.

The leaves are grown in hilly terrain

and sprouts are plucked before the

first rainfalls of the wet season, which

usually starts in late May or early June.

By Moe Moe Oo

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OF all fruits, mango is the best. Of all leaves, itis laphet .” This is a lovely Myanmar sayingthat indicates the important role that laphet  

(green tea leaves) plays in social and religiousoccasions throughout the country. Serving laphet  toguests is an important tradition in Myanmar:Whenever people gather at someone’s home or atthe teashop, they usually expect to enjoy laphetthoke (pickled tea leaf salad) and  yay nway  (teamade with green tea leaves).

According to historians, Myanmar kings andaristocrats loved laphet thoke and ate it with greatenjoyment. Kings even appointed an ofcial toserve them with green tea and pickled tea leaves.The great poet anddramatist U Ponnya wasknown to have been theroyal green tea ofcerto King Mindon of theKonbaung Dynasty, who

reigned from 1853 to1878, and who foundedMandalay as a royalcapital at the foot ofMandalay Hill. Theking was said to enjoy

The freshest, youngestleaves are used tomake laphet thoke,

 while the older,crisper leaves are

dried and used forgreen tea.

chatting with U Ponnya over a cup of green tea andlaphet thoke.

Tea leaves (laphet ywet) are mostly grown in ShanState, and the best and most famous pickled tealeaves in the country also come from this region.The leaves are grown in hilly terrain and sprouts areplucked before the rst rainfalls of the wet season,which usually starts in late May or early June. Thefreshest, youngest leaves are used to make laphetthoke, while the older, crisper leaves are dried andused for green tea.

The rst tea leaves of the season are callednatthitywet  (fresh leaves for the gods). In the daysof the ancient kingdoms, laphet thoke made withthose tender sprouts was served to the kings androyal families, as well as to the rich and the nobility.

The making of pickled tea leaf salad requires severalsteps. Once harvested, the leaves are steamed in awooden steamer, heaped together in a pulpy massand thrown into plastic-lined baskets and left untilthe next day. The baskets are then sealed, put into

pits in the ground and covered with heavy weightsfor the fermentation process, which takes at leasttwo months but can last up to a year The basketsare inspected frequently to see how fermentationis progressing and sometimes the leaves are re-steamed during the process, if necessary.

In the past, people just bought pickled tea leavesfrom the local market and mixed laphet thoke athome to be ready at any time. Women buy tealeaves and wash them with water two or threetimes, mix them with salt and squeeze them toremove the bitter taste. The leaves are then put intoa bowl and mixed with peanut oil.

Whenever someone at home wants laphet thoke,a small portion is taken from the bowl and mixed

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with other ingredients, such as sesame seeds, friedgarlic, roasted peanuts and roasted chickpeas. Somepeople also add chopped cabbage and tomato,peeled garlic, dried prawns and small green chillies.Others add exotic ingredients such as silkwormsand greenish broad-peas. The ingredients aresometimes mixed before serving, and sometimesserved separately but on the same plate so dinerscan mix their servings according to their ownfavoured proportions.

These days, the readymade laphet thoke marketis booming and store shelves are stocked with a

wide range of different brands. Many housewivesare nding that they have less time or patienceto mix the salad themselves, so this developmentis a blessing for them. Moreover, there are manyvarieties of readymade laphet thoke available, sohouseholds can try newtypes without having tolearn new recipes.

There are different sortsof laphet  such as chinset, kyet chay ni, zayan and shuu shel. Well-known brands include AYee Taung and Yee Monfrom Mandalay; Pin PyoYwat Nu and Yuzanafrom Yangon; and ShweTote from Mogok. Mostlaphet thoke companies

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are located in Mandalay but varieties made inMogok are also famous.

 A-hlu laphet , also known as Mandalay laphet , isserved in a shallow lacquerware dish with a lid anddivided into small compartments – the pickled teais laced with sesame oil in a central compartmentsurrounded by other ingredients such as friedgarlic, peas and peanuts, toasted sesame, crusheddried shrimp, preserved shredded ginger and friedshredded coconut.

Yangon lahpet is usually prepared by mixing all theingredients together, including garlic, green chillies,and sometimes shredded cabbage. The mixture is

dressed with sh sauce, sesame or peanut oil, anda squeeze of lime. Many people eat laphet thoke together with plain white rice.

Aside from being a favourite food for snacking athome and at teashops, laphet thoke is also servedas an after-meal snack at Buddhist donationceremonies and is also used as a traditionaloffering during nat  (spirit) festivals. Additionally,it is offered at the local level to guardian spiritsof rivers, mountains, trees and elds to appeasethem or to ask them to give blessings and bounty.Myanmar people also commonly pay respect toparents, elders and teachers by offering them thebest pickled tea leaves available. ●

In the past, people justbought pickled tealeaves from the localmarket and mixed

 laphet thoke at home tobe ready at any time.

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usually the central plains of upper Myanmar,who had left school at an early age for economicreasons. They might be relatives of the owner, andare provided with food, shelter and money for theirwork.

“Fried rice with a half-fried egg, and a cup of pon-mhan,”  I told the boy, who turned andrepeated my order in a high-pitchedyelp to the shop owner’s wife, whoprepared the food and to the teamaker, who is of course the king of theteashop.

While waiting for my order, I watched

people walking by on the street andoverheard snippets of conversationfrom the tables around me. At onetable, four men were discussing theprevious night’s European ChampionsLeague football matches, laying blame

for losses on particular players, coaches and otherfactors. People in Myanmar are avid football fans,so it’s not uncommon to hear such debates atteashops throughout the country. Some shops alsoattract customers by showing football matches atnight, during which the cheers and groans of fansbreak the silence of the neighbourhood.

My breakfast arrived quickly: a half-fried egg overrice fried with soy sauce, and a cup of pon mhan tea, which is neither sweet nor bitter. The avourof the tea is determined by the ratio of akya yay  (the liquid resulting from steeping tealeavesin hot water), condensed milk and evaporated

THE morning sunlight ltered through thewindow and woke me up. From my fth-oorapartment I could see that the narrow street

out front was jam-packed with early shoppers at thelocal roadside market, where vendors lined thestreet selling sh, prawn, meat, owers, vegetablesand fruit.

It was 7:30am and I had about half anhour before I had to go to work. Myfeet took me out the door, down thestairs and along the street to my usualteashop, just ve or six houses awayfrom my apartment building.

The teashop, named Pan Hay Wun,was located in the front yard of theone-story brick house where the

shop owner lived. The low plastictables and chairs sat under a shady

tree. It was typical morning, thedin of the vendorsand shoppers atthe market competing withthe music from the teashop’sspeakers. A girl working at theshop had put on the latest CD bya popular Myanmar singer. Theteashop became livelier as morecustomers arrived.

“What would you like to order?”asked the boy who serves thecustomers. Dressed in a vestand short pants, he seemedtypical of the employees hiredby many teashop owners: boysin their teens from rural areas,

No su bs ti tu te  for

relaxing at the

  teashop

I often drink teaor coffee athome, but it’s nosubstitute for walking to myfavourite

teashop andsipping mypreferred blend.

By Wai Yan Phone

milk. Varieties include kya seint  (bitter), cho seint  (sweeter), cho pawt  (less sweet), pawt sein (milky)and pon mhan (normal) – it’s up to the customers toorder their preference.

I ate my rice quickly to ll my empty stomach, buttook my time sipping my tea. The men at the nexttable were still arguing about football. At anothertable in a distant corner of the shop, a mother wasfeeding her kids breakfast before sending them

to school. I couldn’t hear what she

comes close to what is served at the teashop.

“The professional tea makers have their owntechniques, which they keep condential,” oneteashop owner told me. “That’s why we can’t makesimilar avours at home, and that’s what the teamakers are paid quite well for.”

I nished my tea, and then cleansed my palate witha sip of the green tea that is served free of chargeat every shop. As I was doing this, two women

sat at a vacant table. One of them was veryupset, apparently about a disagreement overprice or measurement with a vendor at themarket, and the other was trying to comfort

her.

As I mentioned, I’ve been going to teashopsnearly my entire life, and I’m still amazed at how

they act as a crossroads for Myanmar culture,conversation and individual lives. People gather

to talk about the news, business and football; togossip, complain and discuss family problems; andeven to court prospective romantic partners.

On weekday afternoons I also go to the teashopnear my ofce with my colleagues. Although we goto the shop to take a break from work, we usually

end up talking about our jobs anyway.We argue, gossip, tease one another,tell jokes and eavesdrop on othertables. When we return to the ofce,our minds are refreshed and we arebetter able to face the rest of the day’schallenges.

So addicted have I become to sittingat the teashop, that whenever I’vegone abroad I’ve had trouble copingwith life without this essential part ofMyanmar culture. Starbucks – with its

air conditioning, iced coffee and plush chairs – isno substitute for sitting in the open air, under abig shady tree, watching the colourful passers-by, enjoying good conversation and sipping myfavourite blend of Myanmar tea. ●

There is nosubstitute forsitting in theopen air, undera big shady tree, watching thecolourfulpassers-by.

to teashops to eat, sip tea, engage insmall talk and relax. Before returninghome, we would go to the local marketto buy ingredients for cooking foodlater in the day. These weekend trips tothe teashop were great times for familyconversation, and I felt more free thanusual to ask my parents questions ona wide range of topics. We would alsosometimes discuss plans for the rest ofthe day or week while drinking our tea.

I often drink tea or coffee at home,but it’s no substitute for walking tomy favourite teashop and sipping mypreferred blend. One of the reasons isthat it’s impossible for me to duplicatethe avour at home. No matter howhard I try to imitate the avour, it never

was saying, but she appeared to beoffering continuous instructions to thekids while they ate.

In another corner two young girlswere talking and giggling. In thepast, teashops were consideredthe exclusive realm of men. I stillremember my grandma reprimandingmy mother for going to teashops. Butthose days are past, and women of all ages are nowa common sight at such establishments.

I have been a regular visitor to teashops since I wasa child. My family ate breakfast at home during theweek, but on weekends and holidays we often went

MONSOON (oneof Yangon’s popularrestaurant) servesMyanmar style afternoontea and snacks. Greentea and mouth wateringsnacks will persuadeyou to get experiencesof authentic Myanmarculture.

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With the Ayeyarwady River flowing at a

sluggish 2 miles per hour, and safe travel

restricted to the daylight hours, the 325-

mile trip from Bhamo to Bagan, for example,

takes about two weeks.

By Steven Selby

BAGAN

Pakokku

MandalayMingun

Katha

ShweguBHAMO

Yandabo

Sagaing

      A       Y         E

      Y       A        R     W      A      D      Y

 

      R          I      V

     E    R

AyEYARWADY   RIVERCruising

in luxury

BETWEEN Bhamo and Bagan onthe Ayeyarwady River, it’s notuncommon to see big rafts

consisting of long stalks of bamboolashed together. These makeshiftboats, which drift slowly on thecurrent, seem to carry no cargo andonly a few passengers, who takeshelter in small, improvised lean-tosbuilt on the sprawling deck.

The cargo, as it turns out, is the raftitself: Entrepreneurs, who live in areaswhere bamboo grows in abundance,cut the stalks, tie them together,oat them downriver, and sell themin areas where wood is scarce. Withthe Ayeyarwady River owing at asluggish 2 miles per hour, and safetravel restricted to the daylight hours,the 325-mile trip from Bhamo toBagan, for example, takes about twoweeks. After the bamboo is sold, themerchants return upriver using publicriver transport and start the processover again.

 the

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 Yandabospecialises inthe manufactureof pots madefrom clay dugfrom theriverbank.

Although interesting as a means of commerce, in astronger sense these hodgepodge rafts, wheneverI spotted them on a recent trip on the AyeyarwadyRiver, evoked my childhood Huckleberry Finnfantasies: abandoning the sometimes absurdstrictures of society to oat in freedom on amighty river, revelling in whatever adventures andinteresting encounters might come my way.

My own journey on the Ayeyarwady River had itsfair share of interesting encounters, although itwas a far cry from a free-oating, Huck Finn-styleadventure. This was not necessarily a bad thing. I’vealways been a versatile traveller, equally at homewatching the stars while camping out in the desert,

or ordering a banana split from room service whileipping through channels on satellite TV.

My river trip was much closer to the latter thanthe former: 12 days on the luxurious RV Paukan 2007 , a three-deck, 183-foot vessel operated byAyravata Cruises. My wife and I occupied a deluxedouble cabin on deck two, with a sliding glass doorproviding an ever-changing view from the starboardside of the boat. With a comfortable dining roomon deck one, and the upper level housing a bar andbig sundeck, we were guaranteed comfort for theduration of our journey.

Our trip started in Bagan and took us upriver pastPakokku, Mandalay, Mingun, Katha and Shwegu, allthe way to Bhamo in Kachin State. We then turnedaround and spent a few days oating back down toend our journey in Mandalay.

Our days were basicallydivided between timespent on the boat, andtime spent on variousexcursions along theway. On the boat weate, drank, slept andlounged on the sundeck,watching a passinglandscape that was, forthe rst few days, largelyat but grew increasingly

mountainous as we travelled north.

Sitting in the comfortable rattan chairs on the topdeck and observing life along the Ayeyarwady Riverwas never boring. From the moment we departed

Aye Yar Jetty in Bagan on the rst day, there wasplenty to see. The RV Paukan 2007  pulled into themiddle of the wide, slow river, the ancient templesfading in the distance behind us. In front, the rivercoursed its way through the atlands of centralMyanmar, the landscape still green in early Octoberfollowing close on the heels of a long monsoonseason. The 1240-mile-long Ayeyarwady River, whichoriginates in Kachin State in northern Myanmarand ows down to the Ayeyarwady Delta beforeemptying into the Andaman Sea, is said to be the

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Yandabo, which specialises in the manufactureof pots made from clay dug from the riverbank.Among the unique aspects of this shady village isthe way that some of the lanes are paved with oldpottery shards, and it’s also the place where thepeace treaty for the First Anglo-Burmese War wassigned on February 24, 1826.

We stopped at nearly a dozen villages duringthe trip, and each one had something specialto offer. Tagaung, for example, hosted ancientarchaeological sites and spirit shrines, while Kathaoffered a taste of British literary history, a colourful

market and an elephant camp in the hills outsideof town. What never differed was the fact that ourreception in these villages was always nothing short

of enthusiastic, with local adultshappy to show off their homes,businesses and lifestyles. Thechildren, of course, followed useverywhere, thrilled to have anyexcuse to skip out of their choresand giggle at the foreigners.

Day three saw us in theMandalay area, where we stuck

lifeblood of Myanmar. People in the country areercely supportive of all efforts to preserve thewaterway’s environmental integrity, and likewisecritical of any projects that might threaten to stemits natural ow.

Spend even a short amount of time travellingalong the Ayeyarwady and it’s not hard to see why.The river provided the foundation for many greatBurmese cities past and present that sprang upalong its banks, including Bagan and Mandalay.To this day it supports sherman plying the waterin small wooden boats, using nets to pull in their

catch, and farmers working their elds with ploughspulled by bullocks. The diversity of lifestyles, thevibrancy of commerce and the vitality of culturesin the hundreds of villagesalong the riverbank attest to itsimportance as a sustainer andunier of life.

In the rst couple days of the tripwe made stops at the villagesof Shwe Pyi Thar, known for itsproduction of sweet jaggeryfrom the sap of palm trees, and

What never differed was the fact that ourreception in these villages was always

nothing short of enthusiastic, with localadults happy to show off their homes,

businesses and lifestyles.

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close to the tourist trail by sightseeing along thepicturesque pathways of Inwa by pony car t, crossingthe river into the misty Sagaing Hills to visit a hilltoppagoda and a monastery for nuns, and endingthe day watching the sun go down behind U BeinBridge. Exploration of Mandalay itself would waituntil the 12th and nal day of the trip, when wewould visit Mahamuni Pagoda and several craftworkshops.

North of Mandalay the atlands gave way to hillier,more interesting terrain, culminating in our passageon day eight through the dramatic Second Dele,

with water dripping magically from strands of mossinto the river.

There were rocks shaped like human faces, andone in the form of a parrot’s beak that had beenpainted to increase its resemblance to a colourfulbird. Boat pilots gauge the depth of the river in thedele by the distance from the beak to the water’ssurface. In fact, it was in this area that we passedthe deepest part of the river, a 215-foot-deep pitnear a spectacular pagoda and monastery complexthat had been built into the side of a cliff.

Signs of civilisation during the passage through theSecond Dele were few: the occasional hut, a fewisolated jungle pagodas, and a handful of boats,including one of those makeshift bamboo rafts thathad caught my attention throughout the journey.The eight-person “crew” of the raft looked relaxedand contented as they drifted with the currentthrough this breathtaking part of the AyeyarwadyRiver. I waved as we passed, and they returned mygreeting with enthusiastic smiles, shouts and wavesof their own. Perhaps they were not as free anduntroubled as I imagined, but at that moment Ienvied their lifestyle, which seemed as close to theyearned-for Huck Finn ideal as I had ever come. ●

located between thetowns of Katha andBhamo. Here the rivernarrowed considerablyas it passed betweenhigh cliffs crowned withthick, primordial jungle,from which we couldhear the occasionalhowling of monkeys.Several waterfallscascaded from high upon the cliffs, one ending

Perhaps they were not asfree and untroubled as I

imagined, but at thatmoment I envied their

lifestyle, which seemedas close to the yearned-for Huck Finn ideal as I

had ever come.

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A r ch i t e c t u r eColonial

Future of Yangon’s

While these larger buildings – acombination of former governmentand commercial offices – capturemost attention, it is the housing

stock, and in particular apartments,that are most likely to disappear.

By Thomas Kean

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Secretariat, where General Aung San wasassassinated on July 19, 1947.

However, with Myanmar emerging from decades ofmilitary rule, Yangon is likely to face the sameeconomic and social pressures that dramaticallychanged the look and feel of Hong Kong,

THE British built Rangoon to inspire awe in thelocal populace and reinforce the notion of theEmpire’s superiority over the defeated

Burmese. It is unclear whether the plan worked– the cavernous government ofce known as theSecretariat was apparently unpopular with localswhen it opened in 1890 – but the hundreds ofgrand symbols of thecolonial period that remaintoday have captured theimagination of a differentgroup: foreign tourists.

It’s not hard to see why.Yangon has the largestcollection of colonial buildings inSoutheast Asia, a distinctionthat led some to apparently label it the “garden cityof the East”. Its downtown area has been spared thefate of historical districts elsewhere in the region,which have for the most part been bulldozed andtorn down, or turned into virtual theme parks.

This places Yangon – and the country’s tourismoperators – in a great position to capitalise on ourinherent fascination with times gone by.

While for now most travel literature inevitablyfocuses on Shwedagon Pagoda, the potential formarketing downtown Yangon as a kind of “livingmuseum” remains signicant. Chief among the city’sattractions are the Strand Hotel, City Hall, BogyokeMarket, the Yangon High Court and, of course, the

Over the past two decades, hundreds ofsmaller colonial-era structures have alreadybeen replaced by walk-up apartments and,

more recently, condominiums to meet the city’shousing needs.

Yangon General Post Ofce

High Court 

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 Accountant General’s Ofce Government House

Singapore, Kuala Lumpur and countless other cities.Additionally, many buildings have suffered fromyears of neglect and are in a bad state of disrepair.

Over the past two decades, hundreds of smallercolonial-era structures have already been replacedby walk-up apartments and, more recently,condominiums to meet the city’s housing needs.

As the noted scholar Thant Myint-U – grandson offormer United Nations Secretary General U Thant– summed it up in a recent article for the FinancialTimes newspaper: “Rangoon’s unique architecturalheritage has survived decades of war, dictatorship,isolation and economic decline. Whether it survives

a transition to democracy and renewed prosperityremains to be seen.”

It may seem a no-brainer that this heritage shouldbe preserved for posterity, particularly given thelikely benets for tourism.

However, the issue is complex and to reach a viablemix of development and preservation the needsand desires of residents will have to be taken intoaccount. “When a foreigner looks at one of theseold buildings, they usually appreciate itsarchitectural value but don’t consider what it’s liketo live in one of them. In many cases, they’re not

ideal to live in,” says Christopher Davy, aphotographer who has lived in Yangon for morethan three years and is documenting the city’sdowntown area. “I think it’s important to accept thatcities change and any attempt to keep Yangon in akind of time warp is bound to fail.”

In 2001, Yangon City Development Committee(YCDC) expanded a “heritage list” to protect almost200 sites, a mixture of religious and state-owned,mostly colonial-era, buildings. This list is seen as just the starting point, however, as it does notinclude properties in private hands, such as theformer Rowe and Co department store.

While these larger buildings – a combination offormer government and commercial ofces –

Custom House

City Hall

Secretariat 

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capture most attention, it is the housing stock, andin particular apartments, that are most likely todisappear.

Ko Thit Taw, 31, lived with his family in a colonial-era apartment on Bogyoke Aung San Road forabout 20 years before they sold it in 2010.

He says that while his previous apartment, built in1926, was “very nice – strong and solid”, he prefershis new home on the 10th oor of a condo.

“There’s a lot of maintenance involved in the oldapartments,” he says. “And there’s also the risk thatYCDC will declare it is unsafe and it will be torndown ... On the whole I prefer living in a modernbuilding.”

The chances of a building being declared unsafehave increased since March 2010, when an

Sofaer’s Buildings Mahommedan Mosquel

Myanmar, they’re not really interested in living inthe old buildings.”

When I ask Ko Thit Taw how he envisions hishometown in 20 years, his description reects theaspirations of many residents: more high-risebuildings, better roads and improved electricitysupply.

However, he also sees a place for the city’s colonialheritage. “The future for the large buildings is in thehands of the government and YCDC. They have timeto make wise decisions on what their future will be.It’s in their hands, because for most people,

[preservation] won’t even enter intotheir minds.”

Recently, though, the future of the mosticonic of these buildings became thecentre of a heated debate, when thehead of the Myanmar Tourism Board,businessman U Khin Shwe, suggestedthe Secretariat could be converted intoa high-end hotel. The idea was notwarmly received in the local press, withmany voicing outrage at the idea ofusing the site of General Aung San’sassassination for a commercial venture.

Nevertheless, Mr Davy says it’s apositive sign that the future of Yangon’sdowntown area and its manyarchitectural gems is being discussed.

“In some circles that debate is already happening

with a view towards advocating for protection. It’sstill at quite an early stage because there are somany other things that need to be done inMyanmar,” he says. “But right now all optionsshould be on the table, from zoning or preservingfacades to anything goes, and all stakeholders needto be brought into the discussion. Because it mightonly be in 15 or 20 years that people look back andsay, we should have had a debate about the futureof our city.” ●

Strand Hotel

apartment collapsed in Pabedan township, killing ateenage girl. Construction companies have beeninvited to develop hundreds of “dangerous” sitesacross the inner city, with the former residentsgiven an apartment in the new building. This hassometimes proved difcult, however, not leastbecause of Myanmar’s complex land ownershiplaws. In many cases, the owner of the land cannoteven be identied, and negotiations betweendevelopers and residents can be fraught.

Nevertheless, the trend towards modern-styleapartments and condominiums is clear.

“It’s becoming rare to live in colonial apartments,”says Ko Thit Taw, the deputy editor of a locallifestyle magazine. “The big [buildings] are stillthere, but many smaller ones have disappeared.They’re too expensive for most people to renovateand while we also have many rich people in

St Mary’s Cathedral

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LYRICS from a popular song by the Myanmarrock band The Ants come drifting across thelake from a group of young people picnicking

under a rotunda to escape the scorching heat of theearly afternoon sun.

A group of three young men suddenly jump up,take off their t-shirts and jump into the muddybrown water before picking beautiful lotusowers to give to their girlfriendsback at the rotunda.

Now and then the angry hornof a truck pierces the airat the Moeyingyi WildlifeSanctuary but little elsedisrupts the persistenthum of insects, frogs andbird calls. 

The reserve, located inBago Region about twohours by private car fromYangon, is an importantrest stop for about 55species of migratory birdson what is termed the EastAsian Australian Flyway. At about40 square miles, the reserve is mainlya mix of marsh and wetland that providesplenty of sh and other food for the weary birdsas well as 70-odd species that live at the park year-round.

For visitors, especially avid birdwatchers or“twitchers”, the reserve is a paradise of opportunity,with some extremely rare species stopping in duringthe year. Peak season for bird watching is fromlate November through February as the Northern

Hemisphere birds ysouth for the winter.These species include little

grebe, purple heron, greyheron, sarus crane, Asian

open-bill, ruddy shelduck,purple swamphen, spot-billed

pelican, pheasant tailed jacana,black winged stilt, great cormorant and

many more.

Entrance to the park is free but a night at one ofthe 10 or so Spartan cabins on the water is US$55for foreigners and K20,000 for locals. The cabinsare built in an arc that faces the main body of waterand are linked by a rickety wooden walkway to eachother and to the main rotunda, where breakfastand dinner are served, and which is also the coolestplace to hide out during the day.

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Here and there whiteherons peer into the water near liliessearching for meals, while at the peripheryswallows make their nestsin the dense shrubbery.

into view as it rides the thermals. In early Novemberthe sanctuary appears sparsely populated duringthe day but the onset of night quickly debunks thatmisperception as thousands of birds y in fromacross the wetlands to sleep in the trees near thecabins. The dusk light provides the backdrop fora photographer’s dream, while the birds create acacophony as they y into the trees and jostle forspace.

With the knowledge that there is no television inthe cabin, the simple meal of pork and beef curries,with fried vegetables and rice, becomes a de factodinner party. Hovering nearby are a pair of cats,eager to clean up the scraps but not at all interestedin human company. And perched on the gutter of

the kitchen is a tiny owl, apparently a regular,who occasionally issues a hoot.

At night, the only light comes from themoon, which gives the wetlands an eerie

quality, particularly when a nocturnalaquatic animal splashes through waternear the cabin. A welcome surpriseis the absence of mosquitoes, which,combined with the cool air from theair-conditioner and natural soundtrack,makes for a good night’s sleep. Evenwithout the air-con it’s relatively easy to

Built to resemble boats– and providing a fairestimation – the cabinsare equipped withshowers, toilets, twinsingle or double beds

and air-conditioners,although there is only

power from 6pm untilmidnight. The whole facility

is showing its age, as if abig investment had been made

years ago to set it up but with no furtherexpenditures made since. Much of the woodworkdisplays the telltale signs of termites.

Package tours are available for $110 dayfor foreigners, which includes one nights’accommodation, breakfast and dinner, and two boattrips out on the water.

On the boat tours you very quickly forget aboutthe termites. Leaving the huts in the late afternoonand motoring out through the lilies and lotus, it’shard not to think of Inle Lake, one of the country’smajor tourist attractions in Shan State, which isalso popular for its boat tours. But where Inlehas oating tomato gardens, weaving workshops,goldsmiths and boatloads of tourists buzzing acrossits waters, Moeyingyi is a picture of serenity – asindeed it must be to keep attracting the birds.

Here and there white herons peer into the waternear lilies searching for meals, while at theperiphery swallows make their nests in the denseshrubbery. Every now and then a hawk lazily circles

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sleep with the windows open, although perhaps this

would not be the case in high summer.

The following morning, early risers are rewardedwith the sight of squadrons of birds ying outinto the wetland for the day in the glorious pre-dawn light. After breakfast there is time to takeanother boat tour, this time along the edges ofthe sanctuary in search of elusive swallows. Onthe other side of a big embankment a shermangives our boatman a gigantic frog, which explainsthe half-glimpsed animals that occasionally splashin the water. Apparently the frogs make for goodeating; no surprise given its legs are the size ofchicken drumsticks.

Moeyingyi is not just a bird sanctuary; it alsosupports a wide variety of aquatic species suchas eels, snakes, sh, lizards and frogs. On the wayout of the park along the walkway we are luckyenough to see a water snake that does an extremelybelievable impression of a lotus stalk and only givesitself away when it icks its forked tongue out. ●

Early risers arerewarded with thesight of squadrons ofbirds flying out intothe wetland for theday in the gloriouspre-dawn light.

# 508, 5th Floor, La Pyayt Wun Plaza

No. 37, Alanpya Pagoda Road

Dagon Township, Yangon 11191, Myanmar.

Tel: +(95)-1-382530, 255638, 393190

Fax: +(95)-1-382530

E-mail: [email protected]

Website: www.myanmarpolestar.com

Explore Myanmar with

  Myanmar Polestar

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EXCEPT forbrides on theirwedding day,

nowadays women inMyanmar rarely take thetime to arrange their hair inpainstaking, traditional styles.Part of the reason for this,according to Daw Nan Ei Ei Zar, theeditor-in-chief of Tharaphu fashion magazine inYangon, is because many women now choose towork full-time to supplement the basic needs oftheir families.

“In the past, a husband’s income could provideenough for whole family, so his wife could

spend time beautifying herself,” shesaid. “But women no longer allow

much time for arranging their hair.They no longer take great pains

twisting their hair into elegantshapes, instead preferringhairstyles that are easy to

keep neat and tidy. Thin,short hair is especiallypopular with women nowbecause of the hot weatherin Myanmar.”

This is a far cry from thehairstyles of yesteryear

described in Shwe Kaing Thar’sbook Sin Yin Htone Phwae Hmu

(Clothes and Hairstyles), whichprovides detailed descriptions of

women’s fashions in the ancient Tagaung,Pyu (Sri Ksetra), Bagan, Inwa, Amarapura

and Yadanabon (Mandalay) periods of Myanmar’shistory. The information in the book is based onpaintings, murals, sculptures, stone inscriptions andliterature from each period.

Hairstyles Myanmar

through the ages

 Young people also gathered

their hair into a curved roll

at the back of the head like

a chignon. Upper-class men

 wore circular decorations

for their head like crown,

 while middle and lower-

class men wrapped their

knots with shawls.

By Zon Pann Pwint

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During the Bagan era (107-1368 CE), womencommonly coiled their hair into a bun on top of theforehead, according to records made in 1178. Youngpeople also gathered their hair into a curved rollat the back of the head like a chignon. Upper-classmen wore circular decorations for their head likecrown, while middle and lower-class men wrappedtheir knots with shawls.

Women added clips, hairpins and wreaths of owerto their knots. Research has shown that there were55 hairstyles for women in Bagan, some of whichwere also used during the Inwa period (1364-1837CE). One of these hairstyle variations called yoneyay la wae was still found during the Yadanabonperiod (1857-1885 CE), when Mandalay was thecapital of the Burmese kingdom.

In 1950s, the beehive was oneof the most popular hairstylesin Myanmar, with the hairpiled high on top of the headand crested bangs curled atthe top of the forehead.

(Daw Nan Ei Ei Zar)

According to Shwe Kaing Thar, women in the pre-Bagan Pyu era (200 BCE-900 CE) wound their hairon top of the head, and decorated it with strings ofpearls or silver ornaments. Pyu men xed their hairin a similar style but wore turbans adorned withgolden owers, feathers and jewels. Pyu dancers,meanwhile, adorned their knots with hairgrips,clips and strings of owers, and wore round, atcaps. This knotted hairstyle was later emulated byuniversity students in the early 20th century, duringthe colonial period, at which time it was known asthe “national bun”.

According to a poetic record composed for awoman who worked on a farm at Inwa, men duringthat period wore turbans while farmers wrappedtheir heads with red shawls. A painting made bya foreign artist in 1795 portrayed the wife of aminister at Inwa with a thick coil of hair on the topof her head.

This period also saw the origin of the bya-pa-san hairstyle, said to have been invented by thebeautiful Shin Myat Hla, who became arrogant andprideful at the prospect of becoming a queen. Once

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her marriage had been arranged,she went to the bank of theAyeyarwady River and had herknot hacked off on the side of aboat. She tied her remaining hairinto another knot, with short,uneven hairs sticking out frombehind her ears. This style wasconsidered elegant, and wastherefore very popular, during

She added that the French twist,in which the hair is coiled at theback of the head in a snail shapelike French bread, saw variationssuch as xing the hair into twothick plaits with beautiful ribbonstied at the ends.

By the early 1960s beehives andbuns had become passé, replacedby shorter styles.

The chignon hairstyle was required whenuniversity studentsreceived their degreeat the convocation hall.

(Ko Mar)

the Amarapura period (1783-1857 CE).

The 20th century saw a gradual simplication of

hairstyles, as well as increased inuences fromabroad, especially followed the Second World War.

“During the 1940s, students usually wore their hairin two plaits, which they decorated with ribbons,”said Ko Mar, a Yangon-based beautician who fordecades has counted numerous famous Myanmaractresses among his clientele. “Some wore the plaitsin two buns at either side of the top of the head.”Meanwhile, many sophisticated women during theperiod had their hair cut to neck length and wore itin tight curls. By the 1950s, however, this style hadbeen supplanted by the beehive and Frenchtwist.“In 1950s, the beehive was one of themost popular hairstyles in Myanmar,with the hair piled high on top of thehead and crested bangs curled at thetop of the forehead,” said Daw NanEi Ei Zar.

“Ponytails came later, with a bunch of hair tied at

the back of the head and short fringes in frontthat were cut to hang over the forehead. Then thepageboy came into fashion, with neck-length hairturned under at the ends, as well as the so-called‘omega’ hairstyle in which the hair was wornshoulder-length with the ends curled upward in theshape of [the Greek letter] omega,” Daw Nan Ei EiZar said.

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agreed. “At that time adults still wore theirhair in a chignon, with the hair is pulled

back and twisted into a smooth knotat the back of the head with fringecurled at the top of the forehead.”

In the 1980s many young womentook their hairstyle cue fromPrincess Diana, as layered andwavy hair came into fashion. Thechignon and topknot, meanwhile,

became less apparent in everydaylife and were now mainly seen

during celebrations, wedding andother special occasions.

“The chignon hairstyle was required when

university students received their degree at theconvocation hall,” Ko Mar said.

But for everyday wear, styles were changingwith increasing rapidity. By the start of the newmillennium fashion trends from around the worldwere owing into Myanmar through televisionand the internet with such speed that hairstylistshad trouble keeping up. Especially popular amongyoung people in Myanmar were styles introducedby South Korean actors and pop stars.

“Permed hair has come into style, and using hairdye is also popular now,” Daw Nan Ei Ei Zar said.“People now follow whatever fashions they like,” KoMar added. “People who like punk music get theirhair cut in a punk style, and those who like emomusic get their hair cut in an emo style. It’s hardto tell what’s trendy at the moment. Stylists can’tperceive the style of the present period.” ●

Fashionable peoplein Myanmar were alsoincreasingly inuenced by thestyles of actors in international

lms.

“For example, men emulated the hairstyle ofsinger Elvis Presley when they saw his movies,even growing big sideburns,” Daw Nan Ei Ei Zarsaid, adding that women also widely imitated the

 Mondays to Saturdays 10:00 am - 5:00 pm, by appointment only on Sundays and Public Holidays.

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E-mail: [email protected] www.manawmayagems.com Passenger referring to this ad will be eligible for free transportation.

Permed hair has come into style, andusing hair dye is also popular now.

(Daw Nan Ei Ei Zar)

style of Juliet when lm director Franco Zefrelli’s1968 adaptation of Romeo and Juliet was shown inYangon in the 1970s.

“After Romeo and Juliet was screened, studentsand young women started wearing their hair long,owing and straight, with a centre part,” Ko Mar

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MY mother, in allher sentimentalmotherliness,

often told me that I wasthe best Mother’s Daygift she ever received.Given that Mother’sDay in my homecounty, the UnitedStates, always falls ona Sunday, for manyyears I assumed I wasborn on that day of theweek. There didn’t seem tobe any reason to question, orconrm, whether I was correctin this assumption.Then I moved to Myanmar. As my circleof local friends grew, I was frequently asked whichday of the week I was born on, and I was told aboutthe important role such knowledge plays in thelives of people in the country: Children are named,friends and spouses are chosen, business decisionsare made, and hair is washed based on the day ofthe week on which one was born.

“Sunday!” I answered these queries with conviction.Aha, my friends declared. Sunday-born, eh? Thatsurely meant that, personality-wise, I tended towardprudence and frugality. I was also full of energy andloved challenges, revelling in nding ways to breakdown any barriers that stood between me and mygoals.

But some of my friends weren’t convinced. Theywondered why I was so talkative, a characteristicthat didn’t t the prole of a typical Sunday-born.And so they insisted that I enter the date, monthand year of my birth into an online day-of-the-weekcalculator. Press enter and … Aha again. To my greatsurprise, the result was Friday. And yes, peopleborn on that day are known for their proclivity forexcessive chatter. Friends’ suspicions conrmed.

Soon after this revelation, I was taken by my friendsto Shwedagon Pagoda and shown the e ight shrines

dedicated to the days of theweek. Yes, this is a major quirk

of Myanmar astrology: Theweek is divided into eightdays rather than seven,with Wednesday split intomorning and evening halves.

Each day of the week issymbolised by a particularanimal and is ruled by a

planet or other celestial body.Monday is represented by a

tiger and the Moon; Tuesdayby a lion and Mars; Wednesday

morning by a tusked elephant andMercury; Wednesday afternoon by a

tuskless elephant and the mythical planet Rahu;Thursday by a rat and Jupiter; Friday by a guineapig and Venus; Saturday by a naga (dragon) andSaturn; and Sunday by a galon (mythical bird) andthe Sun. Each day is also matched with a compass direction,and this is how the weekday shrines are orientedaround the base of Shwedagon and many other

pagodas throughout the country. Monday tigershrines are always found on the east side of thepagoda, Tuesday on the southeast, Wednesdaymorning on the south, Wednesday afternoon onthe northwest, Saturday on the Southwest, Thursdayon the west, Friday on the north and Sunday on thenortheast.

Myanmar Buddhists often make a point of visitinga pagoda with such shrines on their birthday eachyear. At Shwedagon, for example, devotees can beseen pouring water on the animal gure at theirparticular shrine. Doing so is believed to ensure thattheir life will be tranquil like undisturbed water. It isalso believed that offering candles and incense cancompensate for misfortune.

Letters of the alphabet are also assigned to eachday, and many parents choose their children’snames accordingly. If the person knows letters

assigned for each day, they can know the day onwhich a person was born just by knowing theirname. For example, the name of a Monday bornshould start with the Myanmar letters ka, kha, ga,ga gyi or nga, so a good name for a child bornon that day would be Khin for a girl or Kyaw for aboy. Thursday-born names should begin with pasout, pha htote, bha la chite, bha gone or ma, soacceptable names include Maw Maw or Phyo.

As mentioned, Myanmar Buddhists also believe thatpeople born on particular days of the week sharecertain personality traits with one another.

Saturday born are philosophical andunderstanding. People are naturally attracted tothem because they have an easy condence aboutthem, as well as a great sense of humour. Theyprefer to work alone because they believe theyare masters of their own destiny and do not likedepending on others to get the job done.

The personality of the Sunday born is believedto be kind and generous. Sunday born peoplewould give the shirt off their back to someone in

need. Some think they are overly gracious and lovea challenge. The tougher the obstacle the moremotivated they are to crash through the barrierto reach their goal. They are e nergetic and rarelyallow life to get them down. They naturally motivateothers and are an inspiration to many.

Monday born people are very intelligent andintuitive and have a keen eye for detail. They arethought to be strong and patient, but only to apoint. They detest being taken advantage of and donot like people wasting their time. They are goal-oriented and like to succeed. They are respectful oflaws and take responsibility for their actions.

Being Tuesday born is equated with being acrusader, natural leader and noble person. Theyhold themselves with dignity and honour, can bestrong-willed and opinionated, but are usuallycorrect in their estimations. They make decisions

Monday is represented by a tigerand the Moon;

Tuesday by a lion and Mars;Wednesday morning by a tuskedelephant and Mercury;Wednesday afternoon by a tusklesselephant and the mythical planetRahu;Thursday by a rat and Jupiter;Friday by a guinea pig and Venus;

Saturday by a naga (dragon) andSaturn; and

Sunday by a galon (mythicalbird) and the Sun.

easily and do not like to compromise. They will takeon any challenge, especially if they are supportingthe underdog.

Those born Wednesday morning are unpredictableand enthusiastic. They have a taste for danger andaction that sometimes gets them into trouble. Theyare spontaneous and people love them for theirpassion. They are independent and like to be incontrol of all situations.

Attributes of those born on Wednesdayafternoon can be hard to gure out becauseof their contradictory nature. They are privatepeople who do not like others meddling in theirbusiness. However, they are excellent at promotingthemselves and their work. They like taking action

but only if there is little risk involved. They tend tobe very successful, especially in business, and theyare able to achieve their goals on their own terms.

Thursday born are clever, witty and intelligent.They have the ability to tap into resources and lookat things from an opportunistic viewpoint. They canbe introverted and quiet, but they are unstoppablewhen it comes to getting what they want. They arefocused and driven – sometimes overly so – andhave a knack for getting ahead.

Finally, there are those, like me, who are born onFriday, who are loving, kind and very sympathetic.We are very sensitive to others and make wonderfulfriends. We are naturally artistic and creative, butoften nd ourselves going in too many differentdirections at once. Because of this, we have tonsof great ideas but have a hard time seeing themthrough to … wait for it … completion. ●

every weekBy Andrew Sherwood

A birthday

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Childeducation

educat ion

c hil d

in Myanmar

 Attending nursery school provides

children with the opportunity not

only to learn, but also to have fun

 with other children and acquire a

sense of discipline.

By Maw Maw San

THE education of children in Myanmar can startas early as the age of three years, which is theage at which most nurseries begin accepting

students. However, formal education begins at theage of ve, when children start attendinggovernment schools or private institutions. Like inthe West, this is followed by elementary school,middle school and high school.

Most children in rural areas of Myanmar start theireducations in monasteries, which are free to attend.Parents need only supply books and pencils for theirchildren. Monks teach students the basics such asthe alphabet, reading, writing and math, as well asBuddhist prayers and poems.

As the number of working mothers in Myanmar hasincreased in recent years, so too has the numberof nursery schools that provide early educationfor children during work hours. Attending nurseryschool provides children with the opportunity notonly to learn, but also to have fun with other childrenand acquire a sense of discipline.

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Competition is growing among such nurseries,ensuring that the services provided continue toincrease in quality. Nurseries run by the Ministryof Social Welfare attract parents with their lowmonthly fees, while more expensive privatenurseries in cities such as Yangon and Mandalayoffer English-speaking teachers and well-equippedplaygrounds.

Nowadays many parents want their children to beas procient in the Englishlanguage as possible.Aside from takinglanguage classes,it also helps forchildren to read asmuch as possiblein the languagethey are learning.In the past, therewas only one dual-language (Myanmar

and English) cartoon journal availablein Yangon calledShweThway, which childrendepended on for learning as wellas for entertainment.

However, this has changed in recent years with theincreased availability of English-language children’sbooks in Myanmar. This inux of reading materialhas been given a boost by the establishment ofstores like Monument Books, which has branches

Nowadays

many parents want theirchildren to beas proficient inthe Englishlanguage aspossible.

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in Yangon and Mandalay.Monument offers a wide rangeof English-language books in allgenres, and is especially strong in

its selection of publications aimedat children. Kids love the array ofcolourful books on display, and parentslove the interest that kids show in reading suchbooks, as well as the boost that they give to theirefforts to learn a new language.

When thehappy days ofnursery schoolare over, it’stime forchildren to setout on the longroad of primaryeducation.

printed media urging parents across thecountry to enrol their kids in school.

Elementary school goes fromkindergarten to fourth standard,middle school from fth to eighthstandard, and high school fromninth to tenth standard. As highschool graduation nears, many

students spend time in privatetuition with the aim of getting the

best possible scores on the matriculationexams. Good scores help determine which

universities the student are eligible attend inMyanmar, if they wish to extend their educationbeyond primaryschool. ●

HorizonInternationalSchool offers classesfor students fromkindergarten throughhigh school. Theschool, whose mottois “Broaden YourHorizons”, also offersan InternationalBaccalaureateDiploma Program,aimed at preparingstudents aged 16 to19 years for successat university and lifebeyond.

When the happy daysof nursery schoolare over, it’s time forchildren to set outon the long road ofprimary education.The governmentschools are low-cost,and every year beforethe school year starts,education ofcialspublish announcementson television and in

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 Kandawgyi Park 

THE sound of soothing Chinese music oatson the cool, early morning air. It’s so early, infact, that even the trees look sleepy. The

water of Kandawgyi Lake looks black in thepre-dawn darkness, and the wind blowing across itssurface adds to the chill in the air. My skin hasgoose pimples, making me regret my decision towear short pants and a short-sleeved shirt. Whatwas I doing in the park at 5:30am anyway?

Answering that question required following thesound of the atmospheric Chinese music to its

takes root in

source, where I foundnearly 200 people, rangingin age from about 40to 80, gathered on awooden stage over thewater. They were engagedin some form of slow-

me, sitting beside the loudspeaker from which themelody was spreading.

“Tai chi is not an exercise,” said U Shein Win, whohas been practicing tai chi since 2002. “Peoplealways misunderstand that aspect. It is a way ofconcentrating on how to breathe properly.”

Wearing a clean blue track suit, and with a sheenof sweat on his face, U Shein Win explained thatby holding the breath in, signals are sent to everyblood vessel in the body, renewing them with freshoxygen.

Tai chi was initially practiced as a ghting form,emphasising strength, balance, exibility and speed.As time passed, however, it evolved into a soft, slowand gentle form of movement that can be practicedby people of all ages.

“Anyone can do tai chi, but it is the best activity for

old people who are not strong enough to play othersports,” said U Soe Myint, 69, who teaches tai chi inthe park.

To emphasise the benets, he showed me hismuscular legs, boasting that he was still healthywhile his peers were beginning to feel the effects ofage. “Just doing exercises like walking is not enoughto burn calories and stay healthy,” he said.

Another participant, 80-year-old U Min Lwin,wearing a white T -shirt and powder-blue sportspants, looked amazingly t and strong for his age.He said he started practicing tai chi about 25 yearsago when he was suffering from a k idney-relateddisease.

“Now I’m strong and healthy because of tai chi,” hesaid with a smile.

“People should practice healthy habits,” added UShein Win. “If you are not healthy, you can’t evenwork for your own good, let alone working for thegood of others.”

By now the day had dawned in its full glory. The

chill was nally gone, and I was happy that I hadcome to the park to enjoy the start of the day, meetsome interesting people and learn something aboutthe health benets of the ancient art of tai chi. ●

motion movement,concentrating on theirbreathing as theirarms, legs and bodies

changed position in an unhurried, deliberatemanner.

As I watched, the horizon grew slightly lighter,a harbinger of the rising of the sun. The hugekaraweik barge, the symbol of Kandawgyi Lake,became visible in the distance, slightly obscuredby the morning mist rising off the water. Thetranquillity of the scene matched to calmdemeanour and peaceful movements of the peopleon the platform. Hands rising slowly to meet overthe head, bodies bending to the left and right, legsbalancing, breathing in, breathing out. Althoughthe movements were not fast or vigorous, it did notseem like easy work.

The people in the park were performing tai chi, or“ultimate energy,” the ancient Chinese martial artthat emphasises the health of the body’s internalsystems. In the past 20 years it has grown inpopularity around the world, as part of a healthylifestyle, but I could see that it was quite differentfrom other benecial pursuits such as aerobics orrunning.

By 6:00 am the sky was losing its darkness althoughthe sun had not yet broken the horizon, and the airwas still cold. Several of the people in the groupstopped their gentle movements to speak with

Tai chi is not an

exercise,” said U

Shein Win, who has

been practicing

tai chi since 2002.

“People alwaysmisunderstand that

aspect. It is a way of

concentrating on how

to breathe properly.

By Nan Tin Htwe

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ARIES 21st March to 20th April  These are the most fortunate months for money affairs. You will glean an income fromdifferent sources. However, you should watch out for re at home, or your valuables will bebadly damaged. You will enjoy good health, but you have to watch out for your personalsafety when you are on any journeys. You must try not to be left alone in foreign or strangeplaces. It would be much better for you if you can settle any legal problems as soon aspossible. You should keep in mind that combining forces is very important for careersduring this period.

LIBRA 23rd September to 23rd October  Difculties faced last month at work still linger, but you will be able to handle them withmore condence and capability. You must be willing to accept the advice of superiors andexperts, and to pick up more knowledge about your responsibilities. You should keep inmind that “knowledge is power”. The more knowledge you pick up during this period,the more successful you will be in your future development. You should watch out forthe health and safety of an elderly family member. There will be some breakthroughs inlove for you. Your negligence about showing affection to your lover will hurt a delicaterelationship very much.

TAURUS 21st April to 21st May  Your situation will become much better during these months, so you should try to keepyour eyes wide open to watch out for oncoming opportunities. You will be very successfulif you can grasp some of these in time. However, it would be much better if you activelytries to create chances for yourself instead of just waiting for yours to come along. Fortunein money affairs will be pretty good. You should not be over-condent in love affairsbecause there will be others trying to challenge you. It is very important to show affectionfor your loved ones while you have time, before it is too late.

GEMINI 22nd May to 21st June  You will see some important breakthroughs in business during these months, butyou should work even harder so you achieve even better results in the coming months.However, you should make sure you are working for the right target, or all efforts will bewasted. You will have some good news from foreign countries during these month, andyou might have a better chance of success if you start an overseas business. You should nottry to buy property or valuables that are far beyond your nancial means, or you will be inbig trouble. You will be busily engaged in different social activities, and you will be quitepopular among your new acquaintances.

CANCER 22nd June to 22nd July  An objective analysis of your business will help you nd the most effective remedy foryourself. No matter what happens, you should insist on performing your duties and youshould never give up under pressure. You should try to keep your business secret, andavoid talking too much about it in public. If you do, you will receive another serious blowat work. You must keep your eyes wide open and try to keep away from money traps. Youmight face a broken relationship with your lover during this period if, over the past fewmonths, you have been reluctant to show your care and affection. However, you shouldnot be too sorry about this.

LEO 23rd July to 23rd August  You have failed to put in the extra time and effort in your work. Strong determinationand aggressive action together will contribute to your eventual success. You will nd thatthe difculties and challenges of last month will fade away gradually now. You will be ableto carry out your work freely without these extra heavy burdens. Fortune in money affairswill be much improved. It would be much better if you can keep away from gambling andhigh-risk investments for the time being. You should try to spend more time with yourlover, and show care and affection from time and time.

VIRGO 24th August to 22nd September  Unless you can handle them with extreme care, you will end up a helpless victim of youropponents. You must try to make a quick choice even though it might be very difcult foryou to do so. It is denitely not a good time for you to start any new projects or a newbusiness, so you should rmly turn down all these kinds of offers or initiatives during thisperiod. No matter what happens, you should keep calm and try not to provoke anyoneinvolved. Your monthly income might be endangered. Worst of all, there will be manyunexpected expenses for you, and you will be in big trouble if you have not saved enoughmoney over the previous months.

SCORPIO 24th October to 22nd November  You must try to protect yourself from being swallowed up by other people. You mustalso keep your eyes wide open to avoid problems, and try to settle any disputes as soonas possible. Any delays will be dangerous. You will face severe challenges from strongopponents, and you should bear in mind that “big sh eat little sh”. Surviving such asituation will be your major concern during these months. Joining forces with others toght against the big sh is probably the best way forward. You should keep the old saying“out of debt, out of trouble” in mind. Never swim or dive alone.

SAGITTARIUS 23rd November to 21st December  It is denitely not a good time to take a vacation; you must, on the contrary, put extratime and effort into handling your business. Home safety is the major concern duringthese months. You will be very sorry if you ignore the health and safety of elders at home.You should try to control yourself to avoid a nervous breakdown. You might face a brokenrelationship with your lover. If this happens, you should not bury yourself in grief orbitterness. Let bygones be bygones. There is no use crying over spilled milk.

CAPRICORN 22nd December to 20th January  Money problems will eventually be solved, and you will be much relieved. You shouldnot hesitate to help those people who really are in nancial difculty, keeping mind that“it is better to give than to receive”. You should try to make good use of this period fordeveloping plans for the future. You will become the focus of attention at the ofce, andit will be a good time to demonstrate you creativity and capability. You should try tocommunicate and exchange ideas with your subordinates. Doing so will result in a pleasantsurprise. It is a good time for you to take a vacation. Your health will be much improved.

AQUARIUS 21st January to 18th February  Different difculties and disputes will come up, one after another. It is necessary for youto keep a positive and aggressive attitude at work and never say die. Things will developin your favour if you insist on carrying out your duties. You should ask for the adviceand permission of your superiors before you carry out any important projects. Try to getenough rest and sleep so you do not exhaust yourself under the pressure of a heavyworkload. Unless you can give up your self-righteous attitude towards your lover, you willface a broken relationship.

PISCES 19th February to 20th March  You have to work hard for your success because you will not get something for nothing.One thing for sure is that your efforts within this period will not be wasted. You shouldtry to be moderate in dealing with colleagues and clients; by doing so you will get thenecessary support in return. Fortune in money affairs will be much improved, and incomewill become more steady. You will be busily engaged in different social activities, but youmust mind your words carefully to avoid unnecessary misunderstandings and trouble. Youmust try not to overeat or drink too much at social occasions.

HOROSCOPE By San-Zarni Bo

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DESTINATIONSYangon Airways

Heho

Heho is the gateway to southern Shan State, providing access to famous InleLake, where villages rise on wooden stilts out of the water and where localboatmen can be seen using a unique leg-rowing technique. Other attractionsin the area include Nyaungshwe’s picturesque monasteries, Pindaya Cavesand its hundreds of Buddha images and the charming town of Kalaw, whichserves as a prime starting point for treks to nearby ethnic village.

Inn Dein Pagoda complex 

Mandalay Mandalay is the religious and cultural centre of Myanmar, home tomany famous pagodas and monasteries, as well as the best placeto see the production of traditional handicrafts, such as silk longyis,wooden marionettes and embroidered tapestries. It is also famousfor having served as the last royal capital of Myanmar. Thisdistinguished past can be relived through visits to such sights asthe Mandalay Palace and its picturesque moat.

 Yangon A irw a y s f l ie s  t o Heho d aily.

Dura t ion o f   f l igh t   f rom 

 Yangon t o Heho :  1: 10 hr

Dura t ion o f  f l igh t   f rom 

Heho  t o Mand al a y: 0: 30 hr

Dura t ion o f  f l igh t   f rom 

Heho  t o  Bagan: 0:4 0 hr

Y  a n g o n  A i r w a  y  s  f l  i e  s  t o  M a n d  a l  a  y  d  a i l   y .D u r a t i o n  o f  f l  i g h t  f r o m  Y  a n g o n  t o  M a n d  a l  a  y  :  1 : 2 5  h r D u r a t i o n  o f  f l  i g h t  f r o m  M a n d  a l  a  y  t o  N  y a u n g  U :  0 :  3 0  h r D u r a t i o n  o f  f l  i g h t  f r o m  M a n d  a l  a  y  t o  H e h o :  0 :  3 0  h r 

 Yangon Shwedagon Pagoda

Bagan

Nyaung U Yangon A irw a y s f l ie s  t o  Bagan d ail  y.

Dura t ion o f   f l igh t   f rom 

 Yangon t o N yaung U :  1:20 hr

Dura t ion o f  f l igh t   f rom 

N yaung U  t o Mand al a y: 0: 30 hr

Dura t ion o f  f l igh t   f rom 

N yaung U  t o Heho: 0:4 0 hr

Yangon, the cosmopolitan city of Myanmar, still maintains its colonial charm with wide, tree-linedavenues, tranquil lakes and gracious turn-of-the-century architecture. The magnicent ShwedagonPagoda dominates the city skyline, while at street level Yangon is a paradise for hunting out a varietyof exotic arts and crafts. History lovers will want to pore over the National Museum or Armed ForcesMuseum. At night Chinatown comes alive with pungent aromas and delicious street food. YangonAirways operate scheduled ights to Nay Pyi Taw, Bagan, Mandalay, Heho (Inle Lake), Kyaing Tong,Tachileik, Myitkyina, Thandwe (Ngapali Beach), Sittway, Dawei, Myeik and Kawthaung, and charterights to Bhamo, Putao, Kalay and Lashio from main hub at Yangon International airport.

This vast plain ofBuddhist devotion onthe east bank of theAyeyarwaddy River isone of the main touristattractions in Myanmar,

and for good reason.The landscape of Baganis dotted with thousandsof temples and pagodasdating back hundreds ofyears. They are strikingat rst sight, and thewonder only increasesupon closer inspection,which reveals interiorsdecorated with Buddhiststatues, murals andother samples oftraditionalcraftsmanship.

D u r a t i o n  o f  f l  i g h t  f r o m  Y  a n g o n  t o  N  y a u n g  U  :  1 : 2 0  h r D u r a t i o n  o f  f l  i g h t  f r o m  Y  a n g o n  t o  M a n d  a l  a  y  :  1 : 2 5  h r D u r a t i o n  o f  f l  i g h t  f r o m  Y  a n g o n  t o  H e h o 

 :  1 : 1 0  h r 

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Nay Pyi Taw Nay Pyi Taw is the country’s new seat of government.Attractions within the growing city are a handful of modernshopping malls (some that even feature 3D cinemas), theNational Landmark Gardens, the Gems Museum and what isprobably the best zoo in the country.

Y  a n g o n  A i r w a  y  s  f l  i e  s  t o  N a  y  P  y i  T  a w 

D u r a t i o n  o f  f l  i g h t  f r o m  Y  a n g o n  t o  N a  y  P  y i  T  a w  :  0 : 5 0  h r D u r a t i o n  o f  f l  i g 

h t  f r o m  M a n d  a l  a  y  t o  N a  y  P  y i  T  a w  :  0 : 4 5  h r D u r a t i o n  o f  f l  i g h t  f r o m  B a g a n  t o  N a  y  P  y i  T  a w  :  0 :  3 5  h r D u r a t i o n  o f  f l  i g h t  f r o m  H e h o  t o  N a  y  P  y i  T  a w  :  0 :  3 0  h r 

Myeik, Dawei, KawthaungMyeik archipalegoes

Of these three costal towns

in southernmost Myanmar,Kawthaung is the best placefrom which to dive intoMyeik Archipelago, famousfor its clear water andhundreds of uninhabitedislands. This combinationmakes the region perfectfor exploring nature, bothin the water and on dryland. Visitors can gosnorkelling and scubadiving to catch a glimpse oflife beneath the waves.Kayakers will discoverhidden island coves, andcan disembark and explorethe islands on foot.

Y  a n g o n  A i r w a  y  s  f l  i e  s  t o  t h e  s e  t h r e e  

c o a  s t a l   t o w n  s  f o u r  t i m e  s  a  w e e  k D u r a t i o n  o f  f l  i g h t  f r o m  Y  a n g o n  t o  K  a w t h a u n g  :  2 : 0 0  h r D u r a t i o n  o f  f l  i g h t  f r o m  Y  a n g o n  t o  D a w e i  :  1 : 1 0  h r D u r a t i o n  o f  f l  i g h t  f r o m  Y  a n g o n  t o  M  y e i  k  :  1 :  3 0  h r 

LASHIO

Lashio is located 200 kilometres south of Myanmar’s border with China, atthe southern end of the famous Burma Road. Its proximity to the border hasresulted in an increasing inuence from China in recent years. L ashio, locatedin a mountain basin at an altitude of 855 metres above sea level, is dividedinto two main districts: Lashio Lay (Little Lashio) and LashioGyi (Big Lashio).The town is home to several pagodas, as well as hot springs that are popularwith visitors. The rail journey from Mandalay to Lashio is quite fascinating,passing through PyinOoLwin, Kyaukme and Thibaw, and crossing thespectacular Gokteik viaduct. Completed in 1900, the Gokteik viaduct was thelargest railway trestle in the world at the time, and remains a wonder ofclassic bridge design.

Inn Dein Pagoda complex 

Myitkyina

Myitkyina is the capital of the country’s northernmost Kachin State. Whetheryou visit to take a boat down the Ayeyarwaddy River or hop on anotheright up to Putao to trek in the Himalayas, Myitkyina is a wonderful town inwhich to spend time, with cool weather and inexpensive Chinese-stylecuisine.

Manaw Festival

 Yangon A irw a y s  f l ie s  t o M yi t k  yina

Dura t ion o f   f l igh t   f rom 

 Yangon  t o M yi t k  yina : 2:25 hr

Dura t ion o f   f l igh t   f rom 

Mand al a y  t o M yi t k  yina :  1: 10 hr

 Yangon A irw a y s f l ie s  t o L a shio

Dura t ion o f   f l igh t   f rom 

 Yangon t o L a shio :  1:4 5 hr

Dura t ion o f  f l igh t   f rom 

Mand ala y  t o L a shio : 0:4 5 hr

Dura t ion o f  f l igh t   f rom 

L a shio  t o T achil eik  :  1:05 hr

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 Thandwe

Thandwe’s main claim to farme is that it provides quick access to beautifulwhite-sand Ngapali Beach on the coast of the Bay of Bengal. International-standard hotels are hidden among the coastal palm trees, allowingbeachgoers to enjoy the beauty of their surrounding

Night of Ngapali Beach

 Yangon A irw a y s  f l ie s  t o T hand w e 

(Ngapal i  Beach).

Dura t ion o f   f l igh t   f rom 

 Yangon  t o T hand w e : 0:50 hr

SittweMrauk U 

Sittwe is a vibrant port city on the coast of Rakhine State thatserves as the departure point for excursions by river to theancient temples of Mrauk U. Arriving in Mrauk U,which servedas the last capital of the Rakhine kingdom from 1430 to 1785,is like taking a step back in time. The temples are situatedamong small villages in a landscape of narrow valleys and lowhills that seems like it has not changed in hundreds of years.

Y  a n g o n  A i r w a  y  s  f l  i e  s  t o  S i t t w e  

w h i c h  i  s  t h e  g a t e w a  y  t o  M r a u  k  

U . T  h e  b o a t  r i d  e  t o  M r a u  k  U  f r o m  S i t t w e  t a  k e  s  a b o u t  6  h o u r  s . D u r a t i o n  o f  f l  i g h t  f r o m  Y  a n g o n  t o  S i t t w e  :  1 : 2 0  h r 

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EATINGIn a Myanmar home people gener-ally eat around a low table, sittingon mats on the oo r. In restaurants,more conventional Western tablesand chairs are used. Myanmar foodis generally eaten with the ngers.Western visitors are probably morecomfortable with fork and spoonwhich is perfectly acceptable.

CLOTHINGLight cotton clothing is most ap-propriate for the long hot sum-mer months. Do not wear shorts,miniskirts or sleeveless shirts whenvisiting religious sites. While the

Myanmar make no demands, it is amark of respect to dress modestlyand neatly.

WATER Don’t drink the tap water. Makesure your water is boiled, or betteryet, buy it bottled. Go easy o n theice cubes.

AIRPORT TAXAirport tax for departing on inter-national ights is US$10; domesticights are taxed K1000.

USEFUL MYANMAR WORDS

BasicsHello Min ga la barHow are you? Nei kaon la?Fine, thank you. Ne kaon ba deNice to meet you. Twe ya dar

wanta ba deThank you. Kyeizu tin ba deYes Ho deNo Ma ho buI don’t know Kya-nau ma thebuI don’t understand Kya-nau nar ma

ley buHow much is it? Zey beh lout le?How to go to this place?

De nay yar be lotwar ya da le?

Numbers

0 Thoun-nya1 Thi2 Hni3 Thoun4 Lei5 Nga6 Chao7 Kun hni8 Shit9 Ko10 Se11 seh-thi12 seh-hnih13 seh-thoun14 seh-lei15 eh-nga16 seh-chauk17 seh-kuun18 seh-shit19 seh-kou20 hna-seh21 hna-seh-thih30 thoun-zeh40 lei-zeh100 thi-ya200 hni-ya300 thoun-ya500 nga-ya1000 tha-taon2000 hna-taon10,000 tha-thaon

TimeNow a guLater nao maMorning ma neAfternoon nei leNight nya

Bus and train, ship and planeTrain yehtarBus ba(sa) karShip thin bawAirplane leyin pyan

TRAVEL TIPS

CUSTOMS

There are many customs that visitors must be aware of when visiting acountry like Myanmar. In order to be culturally sensitive and avoid offend-ing the locals, here are a few tips:

FEETRemember to take off your shoes andsocks before you enter a temple, pa-goda or as a guest in a private house.Remember the golden rule: Keepyour feet on the ground at all times.Keep them off tables and chairs andtry not to wave them around. Also tryto remember not to point your feetdirectly at anybody and try to walkaround a person rather than stepover them. As a sign of respect, theMyanmar will also try to avoid step-ping on a monk’s shadow.

HANDSAs in most Asian countries try to re-member to use your right hand when

giving and receiving. Better still,the most gracious way to give andreceive is to use both hands.

NAMESPeople in Myanmar place anhonoric in front of names to showrespect for age or position.

  Male Female

Adult U(Mr) Daw(Mrs)Younger Person Ko MaTeacher or Boss Saya SayamaMonk Sayadaw (Vener

able or Kodaw)

BANK & MONEY CHANGERSOpen from 10am to 2pm.Hotels can change money forguests.

ELECTRICITY220V, 50Hz, British 3 at pinplugs

TELEPHONEInternational dial code: 001

SHOPPINGNote that you are not a llowedto export antiques or religiousitems.

TAXITo the airport from Yangon citytakes 45 minutes.

WATCH THE SUN In the plains around Bagan,the sun is ferocious and canbe tiring. Follow the lead ofthe Myanmar and visit templesand parks in the early morningand later in the afternoon, rest-ing in your hotel in the heat ofthe day. Don’t forget to drinkplenty of water, use sunscreenand bring a hat. Or buy tradi-tional Myanmar thanaka. Bringmosquito repellent and use it.

 YANGON AIRWAYS AGENTS

Global Travel Service Co., Ltd.Tel: (+95-1) 243 123, 392 537

 E-mail: [email protected]

Htoo Tel: (+95-1) 548 554, 548 039, 557 890,

548 416 E-mail: [email protected]  [email protected]

Indochina Services Travel Ltd. Tel: (+95-1) 511 701, 511 658, 523 167 E-mail: [email protected]

Kant Kaw Nadi Tel: (+95-1) 559 934 E-mail: [email protected]

Ko Ah Fa Tickting.(China spare) Tel: (+95-9) 526 0872, (+95-82) 30 265, 25 381 Myanmar Asie Tel: (+95-1) 217 103 E-mail: [email protected]

Myanmar Voyage Tel: (+95-1) 650 206, 667 342,  (+95-9) 732 41857 E-mail: [email protected]

Myanmar Tourex Travel Services Ltd., Tel: (+95-1) 534 852,513 432 E-mail: [email protected]

Myanmar Polestar Travels & Tours Tel: (+95-1) 255 276 E-mail: [email protected]

Mya Travel Tel: (+95-1) 254 463, 371 668, 384 299 E-mail: [email protected]

Nature Dream Tel: (+95-1) 392 272, 392 239 E-mail: [email protected]

Nice Fare Travel Co., Ltd. Tel: (+95-1) 393 049-077, 374 922-933,

245 378,255 688-699 E-mail: [email protected][email protected]

Odyssey Tel: (+95-1) 373 199, 240 545 E-mail: [email protected]

Oake Khaung Travels & Tours Tel: (+95-1) 252 953, 383 968, 706 305 E-mail: [email protected]

Pearl Princess Tel: (+95-1) 5922 082, 5921 282, 5922 282 E-mail: [email protected]

Picturesque Myanmar Tel: (+95-1) 397 230 E-mail: www.pqmyanmar.com

Sun Far Travels & Tours Co., Ltd. Tel: (+95-1) 380 888 , 243 993 E-mail: [email protected]

Sun Flower Tel: 552 794, 559 511 E-mail: [email protected]

Seven Diamond Express Travels Co., Ltd. Tel: 392 974~6, 203 398, 392 956~7E-mail: [email protected]

 Sanda Tour Tel: 240 400~1 E-mail: [email protected]

Santa Maria Travels & Tours Co., Ltd. Tel: 384 743, 709 488, 384 064 E-mail: [email protected]

Shan Pyi Thar Tel: 385 125, 371 145~6

Shan Yoma Travel & Tours Co., Ltd. Tel: 295 510, 204 152 E-mail: [email protected][email protected]

Shwe Ka Thit Tel: 082 25 702

Silver Phonix Tel: 535 906 E-mail: [email protected]

Smart Way Tel: 558 288 E-mail: [email protected]

SAI Travel Service Co., Ltd. Tel: 255 400 E-mail: [email protected]

Swan Saung Yee Tel: 562 917 E-mail: [email protected]

Teak Travels & Tours Tel: 532 311, 519 127 E-mail: [email protected]

Than Than Tel: 255034~5, 704190 E-mail: [email protected]

The Chinthe Track Travels & Tours Co.,ltd. Tel: (+95-1) 657 252, (+95-9) 7311 3245 E-mail: [email protected]

Thitagu Tel: 991 027 188, 991 029 773, 9430 109 444

Thousand Island Tel: 372 114~5, 372 117 E-mail: [email protected]  [email protected]

Top Golden Sea Tel: 943 070 787 E-mail: [email protected]  [email protected]

Unique Asia Tel: (+95-1) 398 477, 398 499, 398 112 E-mail: [email protected]

Vivo Tel: 377 117 E-mail: [email protected]

WBG Travels & Tours Tel: 387 999, 385 900 E-mail: [email protected]

Win Tel: (+95-81) 209 174, (+95-9) 521 1546 E-mail: [email protected]

Win Star Tel: (+95-1) 242 226, (+95-9) 502 4086 E-mail: [email protected]

Wide View Tel: (+95-1) 293 425, 294 122, 256 819 E-mail: [email protected]

World Connect Tel: 218 181~4 E-mail: [email protected]

PASSENGER SALES AGENTS (PSA)

Asian Trails Tour Ltd. Tel: (+95-1) 211 212 E-mail: [email protected]

Air Trans Travels & Tour Tel: 98 601 933, 943 089 933 E-mail: [email protected]

Adventure Myanmar Travels & Tours Tel: (+95-9) 502 901~5 E-mail: [email protected]

Asia Globle Tel: (+95-1) 221 173, 228 753, 226 338 E-mail: [email protected]

Ayarwaddy Legend Travels & Tours Co., Ltd. Tel: (+95-1) 252 007~8, 252 909, 398 303 E-mail: [email protected]

Auto net Tel: (+95-1) 397 860 E-mail: [email protected]

Bagan Princess International Tourism Ltd. Tel: (+95-1) 243 245, 372 906, 381 089,E-mail: [email protected]

Blue Palace Tel: (+95-1) 554 679

Columbus Travel & Tours Tel: (+95-1) 229 245~6, 216 245 E-mail: [email protected]

Diethelm Travel Ltd. Tel: (+95-1) 652 898, 652 905E-mail: [email protected]

Diamond Luck Travels & Tour Tel: (+95-1) 254 368, 254 373, 252 397,

243 767 E-mail: [email protected]

Daw San San Aye Tel: (+95-1) 296 058, (+95-2) 31 799,

(+95-9) 7315 1771

EPG Travel Company Ltd. Tel: (+95-1) 255 723~5, 371 935~6 E-mail: [email protected]

Exotic Tel: (+95-1) 386 539, 392 889, 381 945 E-mail: [email protected] Exotissimo Travel

 Tel: (+95-1) 377 801, (+95-9) 7311 1523E-mail: [email protected]

Fire Fly Tel: (+95-1) 391 019 E-mail: [email protected]

Fully Light Travels & Tours Tel: (+95-1) 503 815,516 932,516 964,516 985 E-mail: [email protected]

Grand Lotus Tours Tel: (+95-1) 215 339, 217 292,217 293 E-mail: [email protected]

Grean Holiday Tel: (+95-59) 21 975,

(+95-9) 874 1667, 859 0545

Golden Express Tours Tel: (+95-1) 226 779, 225 569, 705 876 E-mail: [email protected]

Golden Host Travels & Tours Co.,ltd. Tel: (+95-1) 552 996, (+95-9) 7307 5806 E-mail: [email protected]

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 YANGON AIRWAYS OFFICES

Domestic BranchesYangonNo. (236).(1 -A), Ground Floor, 6Wards, Pyay Road, Myaynigone,Sanchaung .Ph: (+95-1) 538 217, 538 043

MandalayRoom(3), SY Building, Ground Floor,

78th St, Between 29th & 30st St, ChanAye Thar San Township.Ph:(+95-2) 34 405, 34 406,  09 510 6929,09 7315 5244Airport Tel: (+95-2) 27 050,27 057Fax: (+95-2) 36 016

Nyaung-ULanmadaw Road, Sone KhoneQuarter, Nyaung U.Ph: (+95-61) 60 475,09 680 7105Airport Tel: (+95-61) 60 909Fax: (+95-61) 61 021

HehoNo(52), Pyi Htaung Su Street, Heho.Ph: (+95-81) 63 339, 09 500 2493Airport:(+95-81) 63 340

Taung GyiMA/ 137, Bogyoke Aung San Street,Myo Ma Quarter.Ph: (+95-81) 23 995,24 638, 24 641,

Fax: (+95-81) 24 643

Tachileik No(1/155), Bogyoke Aung SanStreet, Makar HokhanPh: (+95-84) 53 211,52 478Fax: (+95-84) 53 211

Kying TongNo(36), Zay Dan Gyi Rd, Kyaing SanBlock,Ph:(+95-84) 22 798, 09 524 3006Fax: (+95-84) 22 798

DaweiNo(100), Southern Street ofMarket,Khon Win Dud Block, Dawei.Ph: (+95-59) 21 781, 09 874 0830

Myeik No(15), Myay Ni Street, Kan PhyarQuarter, Myeik.Mobile: 09 876 1954

Ph: (+95-59) 41 460

LashioNo (5), Thein Ni Road, Block (8)LashioPh: (+95-82) 30 077

Kaw ThaungNo. 46/C, Bogyoke Road, PadaukShwe War Quarter, Kawthaung.Ph: (+95-59) 51 760, 09 564 5246Bangkok: 08 22 755 170

Head OfceNo.166, Level-5, MMB TOWER, Upper Pansodan Road, Mingalar Taung Nyunt Township, Yangon.

Hunt Line: (+95-1) 383 100,Flight Enquiry: (+95-1) 383 109,383 152E-mail: [email protected]

Website: www.yangonair.comAirport- Tel: (+95-1) 652 533,

662 899, 700 264, 700 272, 700 359Fax: (+95-1) 652 533

PROHIBITION ON USE OF PORTABLE ELECTRONIC DEVICES IN AIRCRAFT

Almost all portable electronic devices used by aircraft crew and passengers have not been designed to the stringent standards normally applied toaircraft equipment.

By using portable electric devices in aircraft both in ight and on the ground, the radio signals transmitted from these devices can interfere with thenavigational and communication equipment that may jeopardize aircraft safety.

Therefore being Myanmar as the member of ICAO contracting states, Department of Civil Aviation has decided to follow the international conventionand prohibit the use of portable electronic devices in public transport aircraft during the entire ight.

Portable electronic devices include, but only not limited to the following equipment.

1. Mobile telephone2. Cellular telephone3. Portable video equipment4. Laptop or portable PC without printer5. Electronic games, electronic calculators and electronic shavers6. Cassette/CD/DVD/minidisk players (used electronic headphones only),

MP3 players (used electronic headphone only).

 YANGON AIRWAYS LIMITED

WINTER FLIGHT SCHEDULE OF YANGON AIRWAYS

FROM YANGON (RGN) TO:

  DAYS FLT.NO. DEP. ARR. REMARKS

NYAUNG-U (NYU) DAILY YH-917 6:30 7:50

  DAILY YH-731 15:00 17:40 VIA HEH,MDL

  TUE, THUR, FRI, SUN YH-909 6:15 8:25 VIA MDL

MANDALAY (MDL) DAILY YH-917 6:30 8:35 VIA NYU

  TUE, THUR, SAT, SUN YH-909 6:15 7:40

  TUE, THUR, SAT YH-729 10:30 11:55

  MON, FRI YH-727 11:00 12:55 VIA HEH

  TUE, THUR, SAT, SUN YH-811 11:00 12:55 VIA HEH

  WED, SUN YH-737 11:00 12:55 VIA HEH

  DAILY YH-731 15:00 16:55 VIA HEH

HEHO (HEH) DAILY YH-917 6:30 9:20 VIA NYU, MDL

  MON, FRI YH-727 11:00 12:10

  TUE, THUR, SAT, SUN YH-811 11:00 12:10

  WED, SUN YH-737 11:00 12:10

  DAILY YH-731 15:00 16:10

TACHILEIK(THL) TUE, THUR, SAT YH-729 10:30 14:15 VIA MDL, LSH

  MON, FRI YH-727 11:00 14:20 VIA HEH, MDL

  WED, SUN YH-737 11:00 14:20 VIA HEH, MDL

KYAING TONG(KET) WED, SUN YH-737 11:00 15:00 VIA HEH,MDL,THL

LASHIO(LSH) TUE, THUR, SAT YH-729 10:30 12:55 VIA MDL

DAWEI(TVY) MON, WED, FRI YH-633 7:00 8:10

MYEIK(MGZ) MON, WED, FRI YH-633 7:00 9:00 VIA TVY

Effective from 1st   October 2011 to 30th   April 2012

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