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Woodsmith Magazine - 066

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  • -_I

    .__~_

  • No. 66

    drawers, But it'salso ajoim that manywood-workers tend to shy away from. Too compli-cared. Requires 100much precision.

    Okay, let's face it. ii a joint requires usinghand tools (like aback saw and asetofsharpchisels). more than likely we'lI find a differ-entjoinl, ... Oradifferent way to make iL

    Iryou don'l want to U$

  • 3W (){xlsm i[hNo. 66

    SIND IN YOURnpsIf you'd lil0:112.W~pay Sl5 ror acce","d

    tips. !,Iea", >-cndan ~plana-lion and a ,kelch if nCt'C!ed(...e11draw il nt'" on

  • No. 66Woodsmith4

    Cora more versatile bench,JOISRY The end frames of the bench are as-

    sembled with lap join IS, Rill. instead of cutting lapjoints in the traditional way. Ibuilt thern up by laminar-ing 2x4's together, The uprillhl~ are stacked (lami-nab-d) in a way 10create "notches" for the crosspieces(braces). refer to the Exploded Vi!'w,This brought up thequestion oftlle besrway 10 lami-

    nair Ihe 2)(4's together. I( you have enough clamps.you can glue and claml) them together, Or. you canglue. and then nail them together. (Here I'd use finishnails.) Or. glue and screw them together,There was another question about how to join the

    rails (horizontal pieces) to the leW', Ichose a draw-bolt'Y'tem that allows you to knock down the bench ifyouever need to move it in the Cuture,t' "SII.To protect the bench and keep glue from,ticking to it. I finished the bench with two coats ofGeneral Finishes Two-Step OiVu....thane finish.

    An 1wanted was a simple workbench, A benchthat was sturdy, had a Iatgt>wock surface, anddidn't costa 101,And Iwanted 10build it in a weekend,So Salurday morning Iwem to the local lumberyard

    and by Sunday night m)' basic bench was complete,The base of the bench is made out of fir 2x4's,The topisa solid-coredoor. Lumberyard. and building centersoflen have slighLly danlllltcd doors al a discount. Or,you could make the to!>out of two piecesof:\l4" Iltywood,The basic bench worked greal. but by the next

    weekend I began thinking Some drawers sure wouldbe handy, $0 I added Ihree drawers that are [oiaedtogether with router-cut dov~tails, Ialso added a slid,ingtray in one drawer to keep things organized,Since I couldn't fit cV~I'}'hing into the drawers. I

    added a ,bel( und"I'II

  • 5No. 66

    8ASICBENCHA Legs(4) 1'IIx 3"" - 32'i>8 Sidesrcces (4) 1......x 31-'.1 23C Upper leg FIllers(4) I ~ x 3'i> - 21o Lowel LegFilltlJs(4) 1'h ~3'1) -A'i>E SideBroce Fillers(4) , ......x 3\-!1-16f FrnI{BockRo,~(8) l\-!Ix3y.,48%G 6enchTop(l) 1:vax 3O,80H BotlomShe~(I) :v.Ply - IMtXA8I SideCleols(2) iII,Ply -l~x 16J Frnt.!BockCleots (2) 'lidPly - 1'i>x A2DRAWERS'K Drower Guide, (6) '\I, x 2""6 - 22'12l Dlower Stops(3) % x l - 14~M Dlawer Frt./Bc~,.(6) "'. x41'. - 14y.,N Drawer $Ides(6) :V. x 4% - 2011.o Orower Bottoms(3) It.Ply. - 131,7x 20111P falSeFronts(3) '11 4'1'. 16Q Orower ilIJnners(6) v.. .-v.,22'i~R TraySpfir.es(2) It, Xy.,- 19'.'.1S Tr

  • No. 66Woodsmith6

    ,SCREW ItAIl$TQOmtO:

    fltOM INSIDE'Act.8 x 2''11''

    WOOOSCRfWS

    FRONT IIIACKRAIL

    I\.(ler thecnd framesarc built, Imade thefour rails (F) thatrun across the frontand back of thebench. Each rail ismade from two2x4'slaminated together .

    BlOW TH RAIL.''-To mak(each rail. start by cutting rwo2x4's10a roujlh I~nglh of 50". After the railpiecesareCUI10 rough length, glue them togetherto form a 3" x3~'rail blank, see Fig. 5.ShOI)NOle: Rathcrthan using clamps. and

    then waitinR for thp Rlue to dry. 1 screwedthe rails lOANher with 2~"longS('rews. Ill!sureto drill shank holes and countersink the

    ...._

    5

    holes before scl'ewing the pieces together.see Fig. 5.

    TNIM'ro U-:NG'TII.After gluing together allfour rails. I trimmed them to a finished

    1 SIDE 2 SlotNAt.LEG lRACE /' f ~.'O. GWflMlN 2'" A')SCHW TOGmtD. /~...

    NOTt:TOTAl Of fOUR1tAAS"(DlD

    length (If 4s:l

  • 79 1 CUT SKELFTO_r'ITBETWUNk;;;::

    RAILS

    BOttOM SHELF-. ...~.~.

    ~f,'( '\ Jl, I~ j 0--B _~ FRONT/BACKJ I CLEAT

    StDECLEAT

    a, ~.'UG PLYWOOD.ax 111)" SHtLF')WOODSCRtw -..::RAIL . ~..--' --~ .____\. -:.._;. ;~:. ~,1"DRILLAND- --,COUNTtRSINK ..=-I."j.:~~ SHANK . I,HOl,EINTO .1.

    CWT FRONT/BACKCLtAT

    Woodsmirn

    8EN(HTOP "

    l'I.'PI.lOTHOUl

    tAIL

    ,"CIA.COUNTtIlBORf,1r--~-nJ.-_--..j

    ~ DEEP

    aonOMOf

    8ENCHTOP

    RAILNOTE,FACt POCKET

    HOW10WARDCINUIt OF arnCH

    AND WASHER>,' .4'SOlfANDWASHER .._____\ ..___

    lNDFRAME

    97

    OAA.

    DOUIU.$II)(OCARPfT1APf,

    To help start the nu! (in the pork.l hoI.)on the end of the machine bolt. 1attachedtit. nut to a small scrap of wood with apiece of double-sided carpet tape.

    -:-=-

    SHOP TIP

    a.

    :1." X 4"LAG S(~rwANDWASHU--

    4'.

  • No. 66Woodsm'th8

    11 (~~ ,,-L-

    14-Ca . ~ 1,-i .LADE I

    AUXIUAaY ftNCEON TAII.1 SAw

    oaoow--y-...._...

    IIHI'"NAlLS

    ~""J

    ,.ONT/ ....C1

    RAISE 8lADEUNTfL TONGUE,rrsOAOO

    11 ....WOOOSCIUWS

    ~'~.

    TO' RAIl. ON BACkSIDI!0' e[NCM

    DRAWERSTOP

    A and backs. SCIIjg 2.Aftercuning Iht' joints. cut the grooves

    tor the drawer bottoms. Also culllr6ove"in two drawer .i

  • 9-_--------- -

    Woodsmith

    PlWOOO TRAYaonOM

    I 12'...T~Y ~keepOIlS from happening. I builta shallow slidingtray for OnC of uie drawers.111 SJDS. 11.e first step in buDding the

    tray is to cut the "'i'thick. l:v.."v.ide traysides (S) to length. see Fig. 17.11lcn cut thefront and back m pieces \-Il" smaller thanthe inside ofthe drawer. On our lray this was12lfs".see fig. 17.Once the tray pieces are cut to length.

    the ends can be dovetailed together. (Ifyou use the alternate jOiOl shown on theoppositepage. t.he length ofthe pieces willbe different.) Also cut grooves for the plywood bottom (see Fig. 17a.) and assemblethe tray.

    TRAY

    .-- When the drawerguides are in place,UICdrawers can bebuill to fit betweenthe guides. Sincethese drawers willbe subjected to a loto( weight, [ buillthem with dovetail

    joints, USInga router and the dovetail jigshown in WOQIl.sw,itll No. 58. (For an alter-nate joint, see the box on the opposite page.)To build tbe drawers,start by cutting the

    fronts/backs (M) to length, \1)" less thantbedistance between the drawer guides andto a width o( 4%". see Fig. 14.Then cut thesides (N) to the same width and 20V,"long.Afterthe pieces have beencuuo size. roul

    the dovetail Joints on the ends oflhe pieces.BOTmM GROOVE. Before assembling the

    drawer. cut it If.''-dccp groove for the plywood bottom (0). see Fig. IS. The width ofthe groove is determined bythe thickness ofthe plywood. Onour case this was '4".)

    TRAY GROOVE. To provide additionalstorage. I added a tray to one Of the drawers.referto Fig. 17.To make. ledge for the trayto slide on. cuta groove 2"down (rOI11the topedge of the drawer sides. see Fig. 15.After the tray grOOveis cut. assemble the

    drawers.Then cut the V4" x 1'2" tray splines(R) to fit in the grooves and glue them inplace, sec Pig. 14.

    FAl.sE FRONTS.TI.e next step is to cut andattach the false fronts (P). Once the frontsare cut. drill and countersink four mountingholes. see Fig. 15. Then position the frontsflush to the bottom of the drawer andcentered on thewidtb, and screw them to thedrawers. see Fig; 16.

    RllNN~. All that's left 10 complete thedrawers is to cut the 22W'loog hardwooddrawer runners (Q) and mount them soO,ey slide in the drawer guides. see Fig. 16.

    DRAWERS

  • No. 66Woodsmith10

    .....,

    eHD' OUTWAST'II1'WtlN fAILS

    -....

  • II

    WOOD'-CHiPS

    WORKI'rEaawEF- (HAMffR

    ,RcurtlfENcE

    Woodsmith

    Asyou're working, sawdust isbound to accumulate along theedgeof the fence or atthe end ofthe stop block. Unless you care-tully clean it.out, itwill graduallybuild up to the point that il willthrow offyourcuL

    REUF CI1AMFER. There's aneasy way to-prevent this. Imakeit a practice to cut a chamfer onthe bottom edge of fen~.esandStops. The chamfer gives thesawdust somewhere to go

    No. 66

    creates chips of wood inadditionto sawdust (like a router table ordrill press). Imake lite chamfereven larger. see Fig. 2.

    DOVETAil. SPACERS. Reliefchamfersare useful on otherjigsas well. When Icut the dovetailson lite band saw (see pages 12 1017). il was important to keep tilespacer blocks tight against eachother. So I cut chamfers On thebottom edges of the blocks tokeep sawdust frombuilding up.

    ~......HIlC.IOLY

    .Jigs and fences are great toraligning and guiding work-pieces. For example. em a tablesaw ifl need tocui several piecesto the same length. I attach asimple fence 10lite miter gauge.see llig. 1.Then r clamp a stopblock to the fence.Okay. it's an easy procedure

    that's almost foo~proC)(Almost.There's one little problem thatcan really mess thingsup-s-saw-dust or wcodchips.

    SAWDUST RELIEF

    --..,PlACE BEVIl.~,..-li:- OF CHlsn

    AGAINSTWORKPIctTOI)RMNlGOUGING

    a.

    wilboulhaYing 10brush it out ofOleway all lite lime.On the.end of a slop block, fot

    example. I CUt off tile bottomcomer. You can rut off as muchas li4"-as long as trs less thanOle thickness of the workpiecethat will be pushed up against it,I also chamfer off lite bottom

    front edge of lite fence about ),;tl'high to leave space for sawdustto aocumulate.

    On other equipment that

    STARTFROMTRl )'jOur5ID! IDGlWORI

  • cutting dovetails Onother projects in the fu-ture.I think the time it takes 10 build the jigsiswell spent.And. though this system is accurate and

    tlexible, it's not the (astest way to cutdovetails. Even after building the jigs.there's some set-up time and handwork in-volved. The band saw does