wine republic n72

8/9/2019 Wine Republic N72

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ISSN 1853-9610

Nº72 APR - MAY 2015MENDOZA’S FREE MAGAZINE

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NEWS REPUBLICHarsh Harvest414 wineries have registered to harvest this year. That’sa whopping 55 percent drop compared to 2014 when 918

wineries produced wine. Such sobering numbers indicatea crisis is underway and confirm the decade long Malbecboom is most certainly over. Exports are down 17 percentand domestic consumption has also dropped. The reasons arenumerous but most producers lay the blame at an inflatedcurrency and lack of competitiveness in an industry that isall about the bottom line. That $10 US dollar of Malbec justdoesn´t give so much bang for buck as it used to as it is of lowerquality because of higher costs. It is also time the industrybegan to look at other varetals and wine types as it has put toomany grapes in the Malbec basket. One possibility is Argentinesparkling, a hidden gem that could be the new Prosecco.

Tunnel VisionArgentine and Chilean immigration services have recentlyannounced the introduction of a new electronic system forcrossing the border from Mendoza to Santiago. Instead ofqueuing to fill in lengthy immigration slips on both sides, eachpassenger will now get a voucher that is scanned rapidly. Howwell it works, time will tell but any sort of improvement is agood thing as this particular border crossing is one of the worstexperiences visitors have in the region. Mile long queues, snail-like attendance and freezing weather has caused misery forthousands over the years. As recently as Carnival weekend,people were waiting 8 hours to make the crossing, putting asour start or end to everybody’s holidays.

Beat the Recession –

Drink Vino TuristaYou know you live in an enlightened country when thegovernment subsidises your drinking. Vino Turista is ascheme by the local wine board, the INV, to help penny-pinched wineries and wine lovers alike. Every restaurantand bar in Mendoza must stock certain labels and sell at a setprice – currently a very reasonable 35 pesos. One restaurantwas honest enough to state on its menu that it did notrecommend this wine. A journalist posted this on Twitterwith a negative remark and a storm in a wine glass ensued.Such high controversy egged this writer to go forth and drinkVino Turista in every establishment he could – for purely

investigative reasons. The result was pleasantly surprising.Whilst none of the wines would knock your socks off, theywere very drinkable. The only thing off putting is the name.Tourist Wine sounds like the locals know something we don’t.I suggest they change the name to Super-Friendly-Sit-Down-and-Have-a Drink-Welcome-to-Mendoza-wine.

Food IntoleranceRecently a winery restaurant had an unusual request. Acouple booked a table but said they couldn´t eat anything. All

they could eat was nothing. They were gluten free veganswith fructose intolerance and could not countenance lactose,histamines, yeast or alcohol. Seafood ingestion meant instantdeath and the vitamin C in vegetables would easily causea seizure. Fruit was also a no go as the phytochemicals theycontain were liable to cause them brain tumours. So the chefscratched his head and set to work cooking nothing. He spentthe morning sweating over the hob. He grilled nothing. Heboiled nothing. He steamed nothing. He took nothing and putit in the mud oven, glazing it with nothing and cut it into neatslices to serve with nothing. The garnish was nothing.

Lunch time came and the couple did not show. It came to nothing.


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The Fernet

ChallengeDeliciousdisco drinkor disgustingliquid earwax?Lauren Sanne

tests theArgentinefascinationwith Fernet

BrancaThey drink it in bucketfuls with lashings of Coca Cola(it must be Coca Cola) and mountains of ice. Stand inany late night bar or disco and you´ll see the localsindulging in a dark drink that looks like a flat Guinness.Fernet is the drink of choice for all young fun lovingArgentines, which is strange considering this Italianherbal type drink was originally meant to be a civilizeddigestive liquor to sip in your slippers after a large mealand help your food settle.

Fernet is a profound part of Argentine culture and ahuge boost to Coca-Cola sales, making Argentines thebiggest consumers of that soda brand in the World.Mexico and Chile are distant runner ups. Fernet on theother hand was never patented by its Italian inventorsso there are now multiple brands with huge differences


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in price. One can imagine that locals are veryparticular about how they drink their fernet and whatspecific fernet they drink. The hands-down favoritetype of the liqour is the original - Branca. Everyoneyou ask on the street will agree that Branca is as goodas it gets when it comes to the prized beverage. Andmost seasoned drinkers will claim that they can tellthe difference between the brands. The crew at WineRepublic decided to put this claim to the test with The

Fernet Challenge.

We took to the street to find out the truth - is therereally a difference in the taste between differenttypes of fernet? Aristedes Villanueva is a happeningbar street in Mendoza with a lively crowd, even on aThursday. We walked up and down and challengedmen, women, Argentines and foreigners to decipherthe difference between three types of fernet withcoke. The offer of free fernet caused a stampede andthe Wine Republic trio of girls found themselves withsome volunteer bodyguards who seemed happy with

the occasional shot of the black stuff.

In the end, the Argentines could tell the differencebetween their top fernet brand, Branca and thecompetitors. Argentine females did slightly betterthan males, and foreign females could not de cipher thedirt-like flavors at all. Argentines in general lived up totheir promise that there is one unmistakeable superiorfernet, Branca; and when put to the test, they stay loyalto their brand. Cheers to that.


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FEVER PITCH

Forget River – Boca,

Dan Bunton joinsthe footballhardcore for areal party.

The River – Boca derby is a must see for many tourists. Ichose something more downmarket; Platense - La Ferrere,the third division final at Platense’s home ground. I didn’texactly pick it; I arrived to visit my mate here in BuenosAires and he immediately sought out another ticket andinformed me that in the superstitious world of footballI was a good omen - especially as I’d arrived wearingbrown: Platense colours. I find him jogging around thefurniture in his small flat. We meet his friends in a cafeand all around me fingers are drumming on knees, kneesare wobbling nervously, people appear to be in physicalpain from the tension.

It turns out that in Platense’s 100 year history theystarted, and remained, in the first division until in 1999they fell into the second against River. Then, in 2002,Cordoba knocked them into the third. If Platense wintoday they move back up to the second division. They’vebeen trying for four years.

Back at the cafe, the opposition fans pass by in a coach,suddenly the place explodes; everyone’s up and bangingon the side of the bus and shouting or ‘singing’: “DaleCalamar!, Dale, Dale Calamar!”. I find out that the calamar(squid) mascot comes from a likeness the team has with

squids-in-their-own-ink when it rains at the homeground. The grass makes way to the clay underneath andthe team become coloured in their own colours. Finallywe form a queue at the stadium held back by the ‘tortugasninjas’ (riot police) - the tension is a tastable sensation.

“People appear to be in physical painfrom the tension”

We take up positions behind the goal, long banners areunfurled and spread across the crowd, flags are flyingand the fans are a homogenous one-ness, like a giant

raucous entity.

Kick-off. The match seems to have little impact on thefans, you can barely see it from under all the flags,armpits and elbows. The fans keep up a continuous‘song’ amazingly to the accompaniment of a four piecebrass band and a drummer in the middle of all thissurging chaos. Suddenly Platense score and the entirecrowd – the raucous entity - squashes itself into a twofoot space by the fence. It’s utter mayhem. This goal leadsto an even more intense continued chant and song untilLa Ferrere score and suddenly it’s very quiet at our endand the other end explodes.

Shortly into the second half Platense score their secondand we’re stage diving off the top steps and the crowdstarts climbing the fence - seven meters vertical withrazor wire half way up and a horizontal section of barbedwire at the top; child’s play.


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The second half passes in a burr of noise and surging bodiesand then the whistle goes and the place goes absolutely

bazerk. The riot squad move in on the other side of thefence. It looks like it’s going to come down under the weightof bodies. There’s a breach and the pitch is over run andthe manager is being whirled around in the air, people arelying in prostrate star shapes on the pitch. Grown men arecrying. The team’s now in it’s underwear and climbing allover the goal posts - must be thirty on the cross bar. The netis torn down and dissected and dissappears into a thousandpockets. The pitch turns into a jumping up and downfestival; pure jubilation - the opposing fans have long sincebeen shuffled quickly out the back.

“the manager is being whirledaround in the air”

Eventually the pitch simply can’t contain all thisexcitement and the crowd moves out to the streets. Thefans have taken over a bridge across a fourteen lanehighway. It’s covered in flags and banners and humanbeings all dressed in brown singing “Dale Marrón!” and“Dale, dale campeón!”. A breakaway mob has stopped thetraffic. It tails back for miles amongst multicoloured smokebombs. The entire crowd, about fifteen thousand marcheshome indifferent to traffic. At the stadium clubhouse the‘dancing’ continues. Great fat tattooed fans swinging their

shirts whilst kids wave flags. Dogs are forced to dance ontheir back legs. Little two year old Mikayla’s got pizza inher hair. Kids belt plastic bottles, and men ‘drum’ on tableswith glass bottles. Well, at least those tables that aren’tbeing danced upon. It’s very much a family affair, but likenothing I ever did with my family.


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had used skis to get about. When the train first began in1910, it was being used as a sort of ski-lift, allowing peopleto ski between Caracoles and Juncal.

Along the journey across the mountains the passengerswould have noticed a statue of Christ the Redeemer withthe enscription ‘Sooner shall these mountains crumble intodust than the people of Argentina and Chile break the peace

which they have sworn to maintain at the feet of Christ theRedeemer’. However in 1977 relations between the twocountries did collapse, and the Transandine railway wentwith it. Problems had been building up since 1948 whenthe Argentine government privatised the rail network andthe industry was weakened by competitive bidding. Thisbidding meant that the railways became freight and notcustomer orientated but with cheap competition from roadtransport and the last of the customers evading fares; therailway was left on its knees.

The finishing blow was the tensions between Argentinaand Chile over the Patagonian borders, and the Transandinerailway was suspended. The last locomotive to steam overthe snow-capped peaks was in 1984.

There have been many promises of investment and thatthe revival of the railway network is forth-coming; but asyet the tracks, snowsheds and tunnels are passengers to no-one, save the Andean condors.


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COAST

TO COAST

In the 1920s, visitors from BuenosAires to Mendoza were alwayssurprised at how much better the winetasted in this western province than itdid back home in the Capital. Like allwine regions, you could put it down tothe “Chianti effect”, where the alluringeffect of mountains and vineyardsconspired to enchant the visitor and

put a spell on their palate. However thereal reason is much more mischevious.The wine was railed in huge tanksacross the pampas – there then existeda ridiculous law that declared the winecould only be bottled in Buenos Aires.At each stop across the vast plains thelocals would help themselves to somefree vino, covering up their felonywith a splash of wáter.

It is hard to exaggerate the importanceof the railway coming to Mendoza,

especially for the wine industry.Just like you can say devaluationkickstarted the recent wine boomin 2002, the steam train opened up ahuge market of thirsty Mediterraneanimmigrants in BA. Suddenly wineries

could shift their wine in one dayto the capital and they were metwith open arms and demijohns. Therailway became that last importantlink between the vineyard and theconsumer and some wineries such asTrapiche even had their own railwayplatforms constructed within thewinery. Giol, the biggest winery in the

World at the time, constructed a 2kmpipeline that carried the wine directlyto the railway station in Maipu.

The Buenos Aires – Pacific RailwayCompany was the original foreigninvestor. Registered in London in1882, it instigated a building frenzythat transformed the landscape ofArgentina. 47,000 kilometers oftrack were laid down across thegreat plains and over the Andes.Extravagant Victorian style railway

stations were built in the mostunlikely places with every brick,tile and signal box imported fromEngland. The dream was to connectValparaiso in Chile to Buenos Airesand the first Pacific train rolled into

town in 1910. The sprawling networkconnected Santa fe, Cordoba, San Juanand San Luis and was a boon to regionalindustries, especially agriculture.

Many of the bridges that connectedthe towns were designed by oneEdward Norton, a 24-year old engineerfrom England. He soon gave up rivetsfor grapes and started one of the firstwineries in Lujan de Cuyo. Nortonis now one of the big ten wineries inArgentina. Norton died in 1944, justas the railway craze was dying inArgentina. With time, trains would beabandoned for trucks and cars and theromance of the railway became as oldfashioned as sepia photographs. WorldWar II broke the Britsh financiallyand they sold up to Peron in 1949 whonationalised the entire grid, renamingthe Pacific Line the very imaginative

San Martin line. Years of steady declineset in until Carlos Menem finally bitthe bullet in 1990 and closed it down.The ralway company’s office in BA isnow a well known shopping center –Galerias Pacifico.

Charlie O’Malley givesa riveting account ofthe Buenos Aires to

Mendoza railway.


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WISHLISTFinca Decero, Petit Verdot

Long established as one of the mostinteresting oddball varieties for Mendoza, it was a hugetriumph to see Finca Decero’s Petit Verdot take homethe top prize of the night as Mendoza’s Regional Trophywinner. Smokey, meaty and exquisitely complex, PetitVerdot is an unusual single variety and Decero do it togreat a plomb with this precise wine that has floral notesas well as wild dark forest fruit.

Finca Sophenia, Sythesis The Blend

Red blends was a category that the judges wereparticularly enthusiastic about, talking of the greatfuture Argentina can have in blends - and this was thedarling of the evening. A rich blend of Malbec, Cabernet

Sauvignon and Merlot, this wine comes from one ofthe most lauded new regions in Argentina - the highaltitude vineyards of Gualtallary. Mineral, spicy andhinged with dark fruit, this requires some time and agood conversation to linger over.

Cadus Single Vineyard, Bonarda

Bonarda is a grape that is quite uniquely Argentine. Avariety that you shouldn’t miss during your time herein Mendoza, and one that you should take home forwhen you miss it there. Cadus from Nieto Senetiner

has been at the top of its category for many years, andthe judges loved it this year giving it the Trophy forbest Bonarda. A juicy, jammy and rich wine, Bonarda isoften an instant favourite.

Salentein Single Vineyard, Chardonnay

Salentein took home a couple trophies on the awardsnight, and this was deservedly one of them. WithJose Galate at the helmof this big ship in Tupungato,Salentein has been producing some precise and

accomplished wines over the last few years becomingmore focused in the top lines on vineyard selection.The single vineyard is a result of this: an aromatic butrefined Chardonnay showcasing the potential of theUco Valley for quality whites.

Zuccardi Vista Flores Alluvional, Malbec

The Zuccardi tribe have been raising the bar over the lastdecade with their increasingly precise and concept-drivenwines at the top end of their production line. Alluvionalis a superb example of their dedicated research in soil

studies and investment in the new Uco Valley winery.This Malbec is exemplary for its fresh fruit notes, violetaromas, elegant balance and length. There is much moreto come from this family company as they open theirnew showcase winery in the Uco Valley, and Alluvionalshows great promise for the future.

Ladies favourites at theArgentina Wine Awards.

In February we saw the latest edition of the

Argentina Wine Awards.With a panel of female wine experts thisyear, over 650 wines were tasted and judgedin a week of blind tasting that saw the likesof Jancis Robinson MW, Christy CanterburyMW and Susan Kostrwzera come togetheras part of the esteemed judging panel.4 regional trophies, 14 trophies, 19 goldmedals, 193 silver medals and 369 bronzemedals were dished out. Amanda Barnespicks a handful of the trophy winners for

this edition’s Wishlist.


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THE

ICEPACK

Aeroplanes hereare not just usedfor carryingpassengers butplay an importantrole fightingMendoza’s main

climactic foe –the dreaded hail.Charlie O`Malleytakes a lookat Mendoza’sunsung heros– the anti-hail

squad.

On February 15th 2012, the skyabove Lujan de Cuyo darkened.Argentina´s premier wine growingregion and home to its mostprestigious wineries was about toexperience Mendoza´s version ofthe locust plague. People watchedblack clouds roll in from the Andesand suddenly heard the harsh rattleof hail on car bonnets and roof tiles.Ice stones the size of golf balls raineddown in a 25 minute onslaught.The storm cut a destructive paththrough lush vineyards about to beharvested. Leaves were mercilesslyshredded from the vine and grapespounded to a messy purple pulp.In less than a half an hour, 4000hectares were destroyed, 50 housesdamaged, 400 people evacuatedand 2 people killed, one of thema winemaker. The aftermath wasone metre high packed ice onthe ground causing flooding andgeneral mayhem. Now who says

winemaking is a gentle art?

“Every year Argentina loses10% of its crop to King Hail”

Mendoza´s climate is deceptivelybenign for growing grapes. Constantsunshine, little rain, healthy altitudesand an abundance of melted snowfrom the Andes are a winemaker’swet dream. However that samedream turns into a nightmarewhen those same mountains helpform a unique cloud system thatregularly unleashes large rocksof ice over all and sundry. Theproblem is compounded by the factthat it usually happens just beforeharvest time. Southern Mendozais particularly susceptible and inSan Rafael you`ll fine frequent carshelters to take refuge in. Every year Argentina loses 10% ofits crop to King Hail. The provincialgovernment and the wineries spendmillions protecting the vineyards with

limited success. Net protection is the


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obvious answer but it is prohibitivelyexpensive. $3000 US per hectaremeans even the richest wineriescan only afford to cover a certainpercentage of each crop. Some don´tbother at all and leave it to fate. Hailis one of the reasons why Mendozaproduces so little single vineyard

wines. It is best to spread your betsand source your grapes from differentvineyards dotted all over the province,hoping one at least will be untouchedby the dreaded hail.

“Russian made surface-to-airmissiles were once shot into anythreatening looking clouds”

As an indication of the problem´sseriousness and perhaps the province´sdesperation, Russian made surface-to-

air missiles were once shot into anythreatening looking clouds. This wascommon practice for 18 years before itwas decided to refine the system andcarry the rockets by plane.

An hour outside Mendoza is an anti-hail operations centre. It consists oftwo airstrips, a radar station and a

fleet of four Piper Cheyenne airplanes.There, Jorge Silva and his team ofpilots are on 24-hour alert for hailstorms. Meteorologists scan a largecomputerised map of Mendoza. Cloudformations dot the screen, colour codedfrom green to blue. Grey means its timeto scramble and there`s no time to lose.Pilots attack in pairs, one at the baseof the clouds and one on top. They

launch flares of silver iodide into thecloud in the hope of reducing the hailto raindrops or snowflakes. Sometimesit works and sometimes not. (Scientistsdisagree on its affectiveness, oftenciting the lack of a serious study toanalyse the phenomenon. Once anAmerican team of scientists went upin a Lear jet. Their instruments got

destroyed before they could make any in-depth conclusions).

It´s a thankless task,” explains Silva,“If hail falls its your fault. If haildoesn´t fall its the same.”

He reckons his team prevent 30% ofstorms. There is no denying the systemsdangers. The planes get knocked around

violently and in 2005 a pilot and his co-pilot went down battling a storm. Mostlypeople are unaware of these unsungheroes and there daily struggle with hail.Yet its not hard to imagine a Hollywoodscript with Antonio Banderas in pilotjacket and billowing scarf, battling theelements with a glass of Malbec at handand Penelope Cruz pouring.


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A PIECE OF

FORGOTTENHISTORYThe old Buenos Aires railway stretches east fromMendoza through forgotten towns and villages.

Ben Shirley lives in one such place – San Roque.

San Róque is forgotten in time anduntapped by tourism. It is sat on theeastern edge of the department of Maipúon the bank of the River Mendoza.A microcosm of the conservativetraditional province of Mendoza, thisthe most conservative and traditionalof villages. As Mendoza is distant fromthe roaring metropolis of Buenos Aires

in the far west of Argentina, so is SanRóque, heading back east away fromthe city, isolated from the roaringmetropolis of Mendoza. Historicallyit was the last outpost before crossingthe river and setting off back across thecountry. It is deeply set in rural societysimply saturated in stories from thepast. It is also, of course, a hub of wineproduction, with wineries ranging fromthe world renowned Zuccardi wineryand vineyards, to small family run

organic wineries and olive oil factories.

The key to its history is its location.Due east of Mendoza, the village’soriginal plaza with historic churchare on the Carril Viejo Antiguo, builton the original river pass, wheregeographically it was the easiest placeto cross. Now the river is a mere 3 or 4meters wide at this point, but centuriesand millennia ago it would have been300 or even 400 meters. The Carril Viejowas the original road from Buenos Aires

to Mendoza, and was built on the pre-existing indigenous path used by thegauchos and before them the Huarpeand Mapuche Indians. And before themthe animals and even the dinosaurs.There are many sacred historical

footprints in this forgotten little cornerof the world. The archeological evidencesupports this. In the nearby village ofBarrancas there are the remains of anindigenous habitat with a complete setof intact skeletons, and countess otherremains being discovered al the time.Near total disregard for such thingsby present day Argentinians means

that many potential discoveries havebeen lost, however the archeologicaland educational interests are beingmade clearer all the time and now thearea has been recognized or what ii isand there has been recognized as anArcheological site of interest by thelocal government who has ensuredessential protection and funding forongoing investigation. The map belowshows the area of archeological interest.

Unrelated to this history but alsoof interest is that this area is on ageographical fault line, the BarrancasFault Line, and has been the epicenterof many earth tremors over the ages.After the devastating earthquake of1861 which claimed between 4000 and6000 lives (depending on whose historyyou read!), the geography of the areawas significantly changed, redirectingthe river and undoubted erasing manyarcheological remains. In November1936 and earthquake of 6 on the Richter

scale had its epicenter in Barrancas,which caused no death or injury, andagain in 1985 there was another killing6 injuring 238 people, and destroying12,500 homes, according to the figuresprovided by Los Andes newspaper.


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Another reaching 5 on the Richter scalehit in 2006 and it remains to this dayan area of frequent seismic activity, thelast tremor being in Jun 2012 whichreached 5.4 Richters.

So at this river crossing point acommunity emerged. It was known

as La Riojita before the name waschanged to San Roque, certainly dueto its first inhabitants being from LaRioja province. These people madetheir living helping people and theirhorses and wagons cross the river,there being no bridge. This was the key to the emergenceof the village and to the mentalityof the people. To this day there is aproud exclusivity present amongthe inhabitants, which is reflectedin the prices of some of the goodssold there – among the highest inMendoza and perhaps the country forsome products. It is the furthest pointeastwards before crossing the river, sothe highest prices can be justified bythe tradesmen. (At least traditionallythis was the argument, and the idea hasnever gone away.) This was legalizedextortion albeit in a very mild form.There was undoubtedly an illegal sideto this, with tradesmen and travelers

undoubtedly held-up and menaced,perhaps robbed or worse, all eveningand night before being to cross the riverthe next morning. This is a traditionwhich has remained in one way oranother since the infamous “vivezacriolla” or creole wiliness would havebeen an essential part of making aliving for past generations. The presentday inhabitants have this in their bloodperhaps in even higher concentrationsthan the average average Mendocinian.

The key piece of forgotten history, andthe true claim to fame for this sleepylittle settlement, is that in that on 7thSeptember 1814 General San Martin,The Liberator of South America (a titleshared with Bolivar in the North), TheFather of the Argentinian Fatherland,along with his Army of The Andes,crossed the river at this precise pointon his journey from Buenos Aires toMendoza, before crossing the Andes anddefeating the last of those Imperialists

fighting for the Spanish Crown.Exaggeratedly exulted across thewhole country, San Martin commandspatriotic fevour and a near monopolyon names of main roads, schools, andplazas. In San Róque there is not even a

whisper of his passing and this famousevent. In the plaza through which theGeneralissimo and his army marched,infantry soaked up to their necks fromthe recent river crossing, there is no

homage; not even a small plaque ofremembrance. They stayed overnightin a winery (still operational today)*further west in the hamlet of SantaBlanca, where there is a rusty old signnoting the place of as a point of intereston the route San Martin. San Róqueand their inhabitants, however, aremute. Perhaps resentful of the upstartsfrom elsewhere coming thoughwithout needing help the crossing andpaying their dues for using the pass.

The liberators of South America wereInvaders who didn’t pay the river tax,and therefore ignored and forgottenin this proud and peaceful place.

As the village flourished there was ofcourse other ways employed to pursuea living, and being in Mendoza thismeans principally wine productionand olive oil making as well as theplanting of crops. San Róque is thelocation for many small wineries. Onthe original village square where the

church is there are 2 wineries. The1st is a delightful small scale family-run establishment, Mi Terruño, who’sprevious owners own a ceramic factory,and have decorated the place withmillions of small multicoloured tiles.

It is a pleasure to see the place as wella be shown around on a private tourthat any visitors are enthusiasticallygiven. If you are in luck you can begiven a taste of that year’s the freshlymade product, with the guide dipping awineglass into the top of the tank of thewine not yet on the market. A special

treat perhaps unheard-of in most of thewine producing world. The 2nd wineryis more exclusive still. Ran by the familyowners the wine is 100% organic andmade in such modest quantities thatthere are no signs outside. Clients are thelocal friends and friends of friends andlucky few who have found out aboutthe place. As you must take your emptyglass beer bottle to buy beer in kiosksand shops, so clients turn up with theirempty damajuanas (5 lltre flagons), tohave them filled up as they wait outsideof turn car around. The other clientsof the bodega are a certain number oflucky, and presumably wealthy, privatemedical patients from Mendoza citycenter, whose doctors prescribe thewine for its medicinal benefits.

It is a place steeped in history, living ina rural world privileged to be distinct

from the chaotic modern world, yetvery much still a part of it. Let us hopeit will not be long before all come tofind out for themselves what this idyllicisland of tradition can offer to them.The more footprints the better.


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Rapacious consumers of flesh andfowl, Argentines are surprisinglyrestrained when it comes to fish. Thisstrikes most visitors as odd. With3,100 miles of coastline and a culturerooted in Mediterranean habits, you’d

expect the catch of the day to figurestrongly on restaurant menus. But inanother way it makes perfect sense.Immigrants who made it across theAtlantic in the 1890s could be forgivenfor looking back at the ocean andthinking, ‘You’ll never get me on oneof those again.’

So cattle it was and cattle it has largelyremained. The best beef in the world,but a breakfast, lunch and supper

staple nonetheless. A varied diet hastraditionally meant eating differentparts of the cow at different times of theday. There may have been an occasionwhen an Argentine male has looked athis plate, sighed, and muttered throughhis teeth, ‘Christ, not bloody sirloinagain,’; but it’s not on record.

Times, however (and I’m sure you sawthis coming), are changing. Young,fashionable, globetrotting porteños,always keen to be individualistic so

long as they can do it en masse, have,in recent years, made a consciouseffort to challenge their palates.Chinese, Armenian, Scandinavian,even English restaurants havesprung up all over Buenos Aires, their

TURNING

JAPANESESomething fishy is happeningin the restaurants of this nation.Matt Chesterton gives the raw

truth on the sushi craze.

success underwritten not so much bywhat they serve but by what theydon’t. An eaterie that doesn’t havegrilled intestines on the menu is, inthe eyes of the BA fast set, doing atleast something right.

In the vanguard of the anti-tripemovement are BA’s many sushirestaurants. This sudden switchfrom overcooked meat to uncookedfish seems startling, but is consistentwith the general Argentine suspicionof incremental change. While it tookthe English 500 years and a numberof bloody wars to realise that garliccould be safely eaten by Protestants,porteños have gone wasabi virturally

overnight. (There could be some kindof cultural quid pro quo at work here,seeing how passionately the Japanesehave embraced tango.)

The phenomenon is only partiallyrepresented by sushi restaurants perse. In addition, there are sushi stallsin most major supermarkets, sushiTV shows, sushi delivery companies,sushi schools, and so on. And thenthere is celebrity sushi. It’s imposibleto get anywhere in BA showbiz unless

you like sushi, allow yourself to bephotographed eating sushi and thentell the journalist how much you lovesushi. Even if you’re just a backstageligger, don’t think you can mill aroundat a fashion show or exhibition preview

without popping a couple of Californiarolls and a few slivers of seaweed.

As crazes - out - of - Japan - that-have- reached - BA go, this one is easierto account for than, say, Pokemon.

Trusting in the axiom that you arewhat you eat, porteños have longsearched for a cuisine as sexy andsophisticated as they. Steak is justfine for family and friends but nofood that comes with a side order oftoothpicks can ever be an aphrodisiac.Pasta goes smoothly down thethroat – and smoothly down theshirt. Pizza is cheap, delicious andimpresses no-one. Sushi, by contrast,is stainless, odour-free, picturesque,

exotic, expensive and, if nothingelse, a great conversation starter. Forporteños, many of whom ponder theart of flirting with almost Confucianintensity, these are importantdevelopments.

Oh, one minor point, barely worthmentioning. BA sushi, with a fewnotable exceptions, isn’t very good.Style triumphs over substance andimported Chilean salmon triumphsover everything. Perhaps it needs

to go out of fashion before it comesinto flavour. Or perhaps the Japanesegot the best end of the deal?. Canyou guess who the world’s biggestimporter of Argentine beef is?. Nextmonth: steak and sake.


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DINING OUTMENDOZA CITY

PatronaThis cosy Mendocino restaurant has acasual, rustic charm about it. A colourful

hub of activity on a quiet street, Patronaattracts a crowd full of locals every nightof the week who come for the honest,traditional Argentine food and friendlyand warm atmosphere. Classic disheslike the hearty empanadas and sizzlingasado are worthy and popular fare butthe real star here is Patrona’s warm,open sandwiches We recommend theartichoke hearts and goats cheese;roasted vegetables with white wine andhoney; or the more traditional pick ofrich glands cooked in lemon. A decentwine list and some satisfying dessertscomplete the gastronomy experiencebut the key to Patrona is the cosy waythat they really make you feel at home.Mi casa es Patrona casa! 9 de Julio 656.Tel: (261) 4291057. Mon to Sat: 12.30pm- 3.30pm and 8.30pm - close. Avg. mealcost: $140/(including starter, main dish,dessert+a glass of wine)

Grill QLocated in the elegant Park Hyatt, GrillQ serves up traditional regional cuisineat a five star level. Sit back in the chicparilla style restaurant amongst the

cowhides and local artwork, pick fromone of the many Mendocinean wines,make your order and watch the chefsat work in the open kitchen. They arefamous for their grilled meats andgigantic empanadas, and serve heartyArgentine classics such as ‘locro’ - astew which hails back to the earlyindependence days. Save room forthe stunning desserts. The Hyatt’sother restaurant, Bistro M, offers amore gourmet evening menu andthe most exuberant ‘lunch menu’ intown. With a gorgeous buffet spreadof starters like squid and basil stew,crispy calamari with cool gazpacho andmezze style tapas, you’ll need to bringyour stretchy waistbands to fit in thehearty and flavourful main optionsand the sumptuous dessert buffet ontop. Put aside an hour or two for thistempting lunch or make your way herein the evening to try the Mediterraneaninspired dishes including deliciouspasta, fresh fish and some great cutsof meat. Chile 1124. (261) 441 1225.Avg. meal Grill Q $240 pesos. BistroM Executive Menu $270 with starterbuffet, main course, dessert buffet and

glass of wine.

ItuzaingoFor an intimate, unusual and memorableevening - Ituzaingo is one of thecity’s best kept secrets. A ‘closed door’restaurant located in a historic housein the bohemian quarter, Ituzaingohas been receiving rave reviews fromlocals, expats and travellers alike whorelish in the warm atmosphere, goodcompany, unique art, and good food allaccompanied by an eclectic music mix.The maestro in question is Gonzalo

Cuervo who likes to welcome in up to 45people in his attractive loft conversionhouse or leafy summer garden, and hischef Francisco can delight guests with aneight course menu of Argentine flavourscatered to an international palate, orsimply relax with a glass of wine. Thisis a real place to meet the wines, food,art, music and hospitality of Argentina.8 course menu of argentine cuisine with3 glasses of wine and a welcome drink,or you can order sharing plates andwine by the glass. For those who like tolearn more about regional culture andgastronomy Ituzaingo has the option ofan Argentinean Cooking Class whichis a lot of fun and educational. Pricesbetween 400 and 500 pesos per person(wines included). Open Mon, Wed, Fri &Sat from 8.30pm. Reservations essential.Ituzaingo Resto, tel (261) 15 666 5778,[email protected]

El MercaditoWith an attractive fairy lit patio andterrace outside, this is the perfect spotfor some lunch time sunshine or alfresco dining. Run by three friends,

El Mercadito has a cool vibe andrelaxed music making it a favorite.Opened recently by three friends,El Mercadito is offering something alittle bit different to Mendoza. With acool vibe, relaxed music and attractivewaiting staff, this is quickly becominga favorite hot spot for a coffee, bite toeat or evening cocktails. Opening inthe morning for healthy breakfastsand antioxidant juices, El Mercaditostays open throughout the siesta withits light menu of sandwiches, big saladsand some Argentine classic meals.Chow down to big healthy salads likethe ‘Langoustine’ with huge juicyprawns, fresh avocado and green leavesor tuck into one of their big toastedsandwiches like smoked salmon andcream cheese, or jamon crudo andarugula served with chunky chipsand homemade BBQ sauce. As the sungoes down make sure to try out one oftheir yummy strawberry mojitos! ElMercadito, Aristides Villanueva 521,(261) 4638847. Avg. meal price: $ 150.Chacras de Coria: Viamonte 4961, te:4962267.

La MarchigianaAs the first Italian restaurant inMendoza, La Marchigiana has plentyof history and traditional recipes towhet any nonna`s appetite. MariaTeresa Corradini de Barbera`s familyrestaurant started off with only sixhearty Italian dishes but has growninto a popular local fixture which isalways busy despite its curious lack ofambience. The pasta is the best thinghere, maintaining original recipesfrom over 60 years ago; we recommendthe huge stuffed ravioli. Check out

the Brad Pitt photo for celebritycredentials. La Marchigiana, PatriciasMendocinas 1550. (261) 4230751. Avg.meal price: $160

Anna BistroAnna Bistro has been an importantrestaurant on Mendoza’s food scenesince it opened 8 years ago, howeverthat doesn’t stop it from renovatingitself each year. This year Jerome andhis team have started smoking theirown salmon and cheese to add a bitmore flavour to some dishes and youcan try the rich salmon on deliciousbrioche and go the whole hog with a potof delicious steaming, garlicky prawns.Along with a handful of salmon dishesthere are a host of different foods onthe menu including classic steak, richlamb, creamy pastas and lots of lighteroptions including big salads, sharing

Grill Q


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LUJAN DE CUYO

Terrazas de los AndesThe fine wine sister of Chandon Argentinais a beautifully restored bodega withwell-appointed tasting room. Fav. Wine:Cheval de los Andes. (0261) 488 0704/5.Thames and Cochabamba, Perdriel, Lujánde Cuyo. www.terrazasdelosandes.com

Clos de ChacrasCharming boutique operation with nicehistory. A five minute walk from Chacrasplaza. Fav. Wine: Gran Estirpe. (0261) 4961285/155 792706. Monte Libano s/n, Lujánde Cuyo. www.closdechacras.com.ar

Luigi BoscaThe Arizu dynasty are the royalfamily of Argentine wine and theirseat of operations is a handsome andelegant 110-year old winery. Classicalarchitecture, ancient atmospheric cellarsand rich wines such as the Finca LasNobles range make for a fascinatingvisit. (0261) 498 1974. San Martin 2044,Mayor Drummond, Luján de Cuyo. www.luigibosca.com.ar

RenacerThis Chilean-owned winery createsthe label Punto Final. Small, modernoperation with tour that includes ahands-on lesson in blending. Brandsen1863, Lujan de Cuyo. 261-524-4416 or 261-524-4417. www.bodegarenacer.com.ar

KaikenThis rustic 80 year-old winery houses anew venture by the prestigious Chileanwinery Montes. Big and powerful wines,destined for fame. TEL (0261) 4761111-14 INT 113 / Movile (0261-153 530 789) /Movile (0261-155 509 453) Roque SaenzPeña 5516, Las Compuertas, Luján deCuyo. Open from Mon to Sat from 8 AMto 6:30 PM/SUN and holidays from 9 AMto 1 PM. www.kaikenwin es.com

Catena ZapataShowcase winery designed like a Mayantemple overlooking vineyards and theAndes Mountains. Rich, complex wines.(0261) 413 1100. Cobos s/n, Luján de Cuyo.www.catenawines.com

Alta VistaMasterful mix of modern andtraditional. Tasting includes distinctiveTorrontes or single vineyard Malbecs.(0261) 496 4684. Álzaga 3972, Chacrasde Coria, Lujan de Cuyo. www.altavistawines.com

THE WINERY GUIDENieto SenetinerLocated in a beautiful old winery inChacras, Senetiner was founded in 1888and makes a great range of wines andsparkling wines and offers horsebackriding in the vineyards and asado stylelunches. (261) 496 9099, Guardia ViejaS/N, Vistalba, Lujan de Cuyo. www.nietosenetiner.com.ar

MelipalGreat Malbec and gourmet lunchesmake Melipal one of the most exclusivewineries to visit. (0261) 4790202. R.N.7,1056km, Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. www.bodegamelipal.com.ar

MendelAn old style winery ran by one ofArgentina’s most famous winemakerdynasties the De La Motta family.(0261) 524 1621. Terrada 1863, MayorDrummond, Lujan de Cuyo. www.mendel.com.ar

Viña CobosAmerican winemaker Paul Hobbswas one of the first to recognisethe possibilities of Malbec and hisBramare label is possibly one of thebest examples of this varietal. (0261)479 0130. R.N. 7, Lujan de Cuyo. www.vinacobos.com

TapizGreat wine lodge Club Tapiz, high-endrestaurant Terruño and an instructivewine tour including barrel and bottletasting. (0261) 490 0202. Ruta Provincial15, Km 32. Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo.www.tapiz.com

Belasco de BaquedanoGleaming modern facility withfascinating aroma room and restaurantwith Andean view. (0261) 524 7864.Cobos 8260, Lujan de Cuyo. www.belascomalbec.com

PiattelliA lovely family owned winery donein a Tuscan style. Enjoy lunch ona deck beside a pond.Fav. Wine:Oaked Torrontes. (0261) 479 0123.Cobos 13710, Lujan de Cuyo. www.piattellivineyards.com

CruzatA boutique traditional sparkling wineproducer with gorgeous bubbles that canbe enjoyed from their terrace overlookingvines. (261) 5242290, Costa Flores, s/n,Perdriel, www.bodegacruzat.com

Dante RobinoFounded in 1920, an atmospheric old-style winery with a modernist, light-filled tasting room with excellent viewof mountains and vines. (0261) 4887229 Ext. #2. Callejón Maldonado 240,Perdriel. www.bodegadanterobino.com

SeptimaA beautifully designed winery withclear views of the mountains and a largeterrace used for sunset wine eventsafter 6.30pm on Thursdays. Owned bythe Spanish experts in sparkling wine,Codorniu, they make fab sparklingwine under label Maria. (261) 498 9550,Ruta 7, 6.5km, Lujan de Cuyo. www.bodegaseptima.com

BonfantiA lovely winery in a pastoral setting.Up close and personal tours with theowners themselves and a tasting roomset amidst the vines. (0261) 488 0595.Terrada 2024, Lujan de Cuyo.

Pulenta EstateCool minimalist design and richcomplex wines make this a winerywith finesse and style. Fav. Wine:Cabernet Franc. (0261) 155 076426.Ruta 86, Km 6.5. Lujan de Cuyo. www.pulentaestate.com

NortonOld-style cellars contrast with a high-tech production line. Tank and barreltastings,and jug fillings on Thursdays arepopular with the locals. (0261) 490 9700.R.P.15, Km 23.5. Perdriel.Luján de Cuyo.www.norton.com.ar

Benegas LynchRich history and richer wines. Lovelyold bodega with lots of character. Fav.Wine: Cabernet Franc. (0261) 4960794. Ruta 60. Cruz de Piedra. www.bodegabenegas.com

Navarro CorreasThe closest winery to Mendoza city, easilyaccessible Navarro Correas is a modernwinery with great sparkling wines andfun tasting options. (0261) 4597916. SanFrancisco del Monte 1555, Godoy Cruz.www.ncorreas.com

CaelumModern, medium size winery on the mainroad to Chile just before the mountainsand has a nice family feel to it. Fav. Wine:Rosado. (261)156992890. R.N.7 km 1060,Agrelo. www.bodegacaelum.com.ar


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Restaurant

Lodging

Driving time from Mendoza City

Art Gallery

LOCATIONS REFERENCESREFERENCES

Luján de Cuyo

Maipú

Mendoza City

San Martín

Valle de Uco

ChandonThe original foreign investor, French-owned Chandon has been makinggreat sparkling wines in Mendozasince the 1960s. (0261) 490 9968. R.P.15,Km 29, Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. www.bodegaschandon.com.ar

Dominio del PlataArgentina´s most famous femalewinemaker Susana Balbo is creatingsome rich and complex wines in the heartof Agrelo. (0261) 498 9200. Cochabamba7801 Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. www.dominiodelplata.com.ar

LagardeOwner of the oldest white wine inSouth America. Try the hand-craftedsparkling wine made from 100 year oldvines. (0261) 498 0011 Ext. 27. San Martin1745, Mayor Drummond. Luján de Cuyo.www.lagarde.com.ar

Ruca MalenExcellent food, great guiding and first-class wines. The pairings over lunchmake for an unforgettable culinaryexperience. (0261) 5537164 - 2614540974.R.N.7, Km 1059, Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo.www.bodegarucamalen.com

DeceroAttractive, modern facility withspectacular views of the mountains fromthe cozy tasting room. (0261) 524 4748.Bajo las Cumbres 9003, Agrelo, Luján deCuyo. www.decero.com

Estrella de los AndesOn a leafy road in the middle of Lujan,this winery has a cool, retro diner withwell presented and tasty Argentinedishes that won’t break your bank.Open all day and a relaxed atmosphere.Olavarria 225, Perdriel, (261) 464 9190.www.bodegaestrelladelosandes.com

Carmelo PattiMendoza’s most famous garagista.Carmelo Patti himself is often thereto show you around (in Spanish). Fav.Wine: Cabernet Sauvignon from thebarrel. (0261) 498 1379. San Martin 2614,Luján de Cuyo.

DoliumA completely underground winerywith innovative design and top notchMalbecs. (0261) 490 0190. R.P.15, Km 30s/n, Agrelo. www.dolium.com

La Madrid/DuriguttiTucked away in a restored winery inLas Compuertas, you can taste singlevineyard and terroir blend wines fromboth of these ambitious projects fromunder one roof. Walk-ins welcome.Roque Sáenz Peña 8450, Las Compuertas,Luján de Cuyo. (261) 562 9134/35.www.durigutti.com www.lamadridwines.com

Finca AgostinoThis Canadian-owned winery outin the far East of Maipu is worth theextra 15 minutes in the car forits fabulous views and playfulcuisine. Before tucking into lunchor wine tasting, there are manyactivities on offer so you can makea day of it. Vineyard tours bybike or foot are a popular option,or you can get your hands busy inthe kitchen with a cooking classwhere you get to harvest theingredients by hand in their garden.If art is more your thing, the

art gallery is also worth a perusefor its rotating collection of artand sculpture.

Making a host of wines not justfrom their Barrancas home, but alsofrom vineyards high in the UcoValley, you can taste through theirwhole portfolio during a visit tothe winery but your best tastingexperience will be sitting down totheir playful pairing menu overlunch. This winery eschews the usualempanadas and steak and insteadoffers something a little unusual,creative and certainly memorable.

Sit down to a five course fairground

of flavour and flair: Torronteswith chilled gazpacho and basil icecream; beetroot in three textures

and Malbec; a chivito burger andsoufflé paired with a rich red blend,just to mention a few… When youare done with the taste parade, youmight want to head up to theterrace and enjoy the rest of yourbubbles with a sweeping view acrossthe entire of Mendoza, framed bythe Andes mountains. This isMaipu, but not as you know it.

By Amanda Bar nes

Carril Barrancas 10590 (5517)

Barrancas, Maipú. (261) 5249358/9 - 5249858/9. Open 7 days a week. www. fincaagostino.com


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THE WINERY GUIDEAchaval FerrerModern boutique close to Mendozariverbed. Big concentrated wines. (0261)488 1131. Cobos 2601, Perdriel, Lujan deCuyo. www.achaval-ferrer.com

VistalbaTasting room where one entire wallis a subterranean cross section of theactual vineyard clay, roots and rocks.Fab restaurant. Fav Wine: Petit Verdot.(0261) 498 9400. Roque Saenz Peña 3135,Vistalba. www.carlospulentawines.com

Familia CassoneA charming, family owned winery in abeautiful setting. Try the jasmine tintedrosé amidst the pastoral splendour of theowner’s expansive garden.Anchorenay Terrada. (261) 424 6301.www.familiacassone.com.ar

MAIPU

TrapicheArgentina’s biggest winery is a mix of oldand new, traditional and industrial, andhas the old train tracks leading up to it.(0261) 520 7666. Mitre s/n. Coquimbito,Maipú. www.trapiche.com.ar

FlichmanSteeped in history and tradition. Charming,pink-hued, colonial-style bodega, set inthe leafy vineyards of southern Maipu.(0261) 497 2039. Munives 800, Barrancas,Maipú. www.flichman.com

Familia Di TommassoOfficially the second oldest winery inMendoza and still run by Argentinehands. Their charming and rusticrestaurant looks onto the vineyard,

just two steps away. (0261) 524 1829.Urquiza 8136, Russell, Maipú. www.familiaditommaso.com

Familia ZuccardiA professional, far-sighted operation.Attractive restaurant amidst the vines,famous for its asado-style lunches andgenerous wine pourings. (0261) 4410000. R.P. 33, Km 7.5, Maipú. www.familiazuccardi.com

Cepas Elegidas

Making real ‘vinos de autor’, US bornBrennan Firth makes his limitedproduction wines in a small wineryin Maipu. Exclusive and ultra highend wines, a visit and tasting is withthe winemaker himself. To visit CepasElegidas, call Brennan on (0261) 467 1015.

LopezPopular, old-style winery with twomuseums on the wine. Restaurant offersgourmet cuisine with a panoramic view.(0261) 497 6554. Ozamis 375, Gral Gutiérrez,Maipú. www.bodegaslopez.com.ar

Rutini / La RuralWell-stocked museum with invaluableantiques like cowhide wine presses andbuckets. Giant oak tanks stand in large,cavernous halls. (0261) 497 2013 Ext.125.Montecaseros 2625, Coquimbito, Maipú.www.bodegalarural.com.ar

CecchinA family winery using organic andbiodynamic principles where you can seethe entire process from the beautiful greenvineyards to the minimal interventionwinery. (261) 497 6707, MA Saez 626,Maipu, www.bodegacecchin.com.ar

CarinaeSmall, charming, French-owned wineryoffering personal tours and well-honedwines. Surrounded by vineyards andolive trees. (0261) 499 0470. VidelaAranda 2899, Cruz de Piedra, Maipúwww.carinaevinos.com

Tempus AlbaA fine modern winery set in the rurallanes of southern Maipu. The rooftopterrace overlooks the vineyard. (0261) 4813501. Perito Moreno 572, Maipú. www.tempusalba.com

AMP CavaPremium wines made from differentterroirs but all by renowned winemakerKarim Mussi Saffie. Technical tastingsand a close proximity to the citymake it a recommended visit. GómezAdriano 3602. Coquimbito. Maipú - (261)4813201/4668048

VALLE DE UCO

AndelunaThe old-world style tasting room looksupon dramatic views of vineyards againstmountains. (02622) 423 226 Ext 113.R.P.89, Km 11, Gualtallary, Tupungato. www.andeluna.com

AtamisqueThis Uco winery has some great whitewines, a unique stony roof and theybreed their own trout which is servedin the charming restaurant.(0261)156 855184. R.P. 86 (Km 30), San Jose,Tupungato. www.atamisque.com

La AzulSimple, small production winery withnot so simple Malbecs and a smalltraditional restaurant. (02622) 423 593.R.P89 s/n. Agua Amarga, Tupungato. www.bodegalaazul.com

Finca La CeliaOne of the valley’s oldest wineries. Theyconduct excellent tours and tastings.(02622) 451 010. Av. de Circunvalacions/n, Eugenio Bustos, San Carlos. www.fincalacelia.com.ar

SalenteinDesigned like a temple to wine, thisultra-concept winery includes amodern art gallery, lodge, and chapelset high in the Andean valley. (02622)429 500.R.P 89 s/n, Tunuyan. www.killkasalentein.com

Clos de los 7In the heart of gorgeous Vista Flores,you can visit premium Frenchowned wineries Monteviejo, Rolland,Diamandes and Cuvelier de los andesin one visit for tastings, horseriding,art and lunch. (0261) 156 687680. www.clos7.com.ar

O. FournierMost architecturally innovative winerywith rich, concentrated wines. Excellentlunches in the modernist visitor center.(02622) 451 088. Los Indios s/n, LaConsulta, San Carlos. www.ofournier.com

Gimenez RiiliA brand new family run affair, part ofthe exciting Vines of Mendoza project.This is a modern winery in a stunningsetting. 0261-156317105/ 0261-153470392 - Ruta 94 (s/n), Tunuyán.www.gimenezriili.com

Bodega MasiFascinating Italian job in the heart ofTupungato with commanding viewsand commanding wines, especiiallythe Amarone inspired varietals andunusual blends. Tel. (0261) 156539573.www.masitupungato.com

SAN MARTIN

Familia AntoniettiA family winery in San Martin whereyou can have a tour with the owners,try some of their sparkling wines andstay for a homecooked lunch. (0261)4390964/155688905. Pizarro s/n esq.Zalazar, Chapanay, San Martín.


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USEFUL INFORMATIONAIRPORT Tel: 5206000 Accesso Norte s/n. El Plumerillo. SHIPPING WINE Ordinary post will not ship wine and a courier can cost atleast U$ 30 a bottle. The most economical way is send it with your checked luggage in a special styrofoam wine box, available at mostwine stores or at Trout & Wine, Espejo 266. CRIME Be alert. Mendoza does have crime. Hold on to purses on the street and at restaurants.Avoid carrying valuables. Hostel lockers are not safe. Danger spots: bus terminal and internet cafes. BIKE TOURS IN MAIPU Themost economical way to do a wine tour in Mendoza. Take bus (171, 172 or 173) from Catamarca and Rioja to Urquiza street (see below)where you’ll find several bike rental companies. Some are notorious for dodgy bikes. Check and double check you get a good mount

as a puncture can cause a mini nightmare. Head south, as north of Maipu is urban and not pretty. RECOMMENDED WINERIES Rutini, Tempus Alba, Di Tommasso, Carinae and certainly Trapiche. When returning have a late lunch at the excellent Casa de Campo.NIGHTCLUBS In most nightclubs you have to queue twice for a drink which can get slightly exasperating as the night wears on. It iswise to buy several drink tickets at once for an easy, unimpeded flow of alcohol. Bathrooms are usually ill equiped so bring your owntoilet paper. Many nightclubs are 200 light years away in Chacras which can cause problems getting home. Clubs rarely get goingbefore 2am. MENDOZA EXPATS CLUB An organization which enables Expatriates to meet each other. www.mendozaexpats.org.HAIR DRESSER English speaking and eccentric hairdresser Haisley will do your hairdo right. Paso de los Andes 997 (esq. Julio Roca),tel (261) 641 6047. CHANGING DOLLARS - “Cambio, cambio” shout the arbolitos (money changers) outside Galeria Tonsa (San Martin1173), the place to go if you want the best street rate. Larger denomination notes are preferred. To make sure you are not getting rippedoff check the current rate of the “dolár informal” on www.ambito.com. The Mendoza rate is generally 30 centavos less.


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