WIGS AND HAIR ADDITIONSCh #19

LEARNING OBJECTIVES:

Explain the differences between human hair and synthetic hair

Describe the two basic categories of wigs Describe several types of hairpieces and

their uses Explain several different methods of

attaching hair extensions

KEY TERMSBlock Fallen Hair Integration Hairpieces

Bonding Fusion Bonding Machine Made Wigs

Braid and Sew Method Hair Extensions Semi-hand-tied wigs

Cap Wigs Hair Piece Toupee

Capless Wigs Hand-tied-wigs Turned Hair (Remi)

(hand knotted wigs) Wefts

Wigs

WHY STUDY WIGS & HAIR ADDITIONS

In today’s fashion conscious world, wigs and hair additions play an incredibly important role. Working with hair additions can be either a simple retail effort or a highly specialized field. Most clients buy wigs off-the-shelf or on the internet, and rarely have them custom fitted anymore. Faux hair is an extremely lucrative business!

HUMAN VS. SYNTHETIC HAIRFastest way to tell is the Match Test

Human hair will burn slowly and give off a distinctive odor

Synthetic fiber will ball up and melt, extinguish itself, or continue to flame and burn out quickly and give off no odor

ADVANTAGES OF HUMAN HAIR More realistic appearance Greater durability Same styling and maintenance

requirements as natural hair Can be custom colored or permed Can tolerate hear from a blowdryer or

thermal tools

DISADVANTAGES OF HUMAN HAIR

o Hair reacts to climateo After shampooing the hair needs to be reseto The color will oxidizeo The hair will break and split if mistreated

ADVANTAGES OF SYNTHETIC HAIR A modacrylic like Kanekalon is strong and

durable with a natural lustrous look and feel Great value Ready to wear Usually is designed to the latest fashion Colors are limitless and will not fade or

oxidize

DISADVANTAGES OF SYNTHETIC HAIR

• Can not be exposed to high heat, making it difficult to alter the style

• Can not custom color

• Sometimes it looks too shiny and therefor unnatural

QUALITY & COST

• Bottom lines is you get what you pay for• The more expensive hair are those made of human hair

Pricing varies as follows:• European hair is the top of the line; virgin is the most expensive and color treated is second in cost• Hair from India and Asia provide the most commercial human hair. Indian hair is usually available in

lengths from 12-16 inches and Asian from 12 -28 inches. Indian hair is usually wavy and Asian straight• Human hair mixed with animal hair is next in expense. It may be angora, horse, yak or sheep• Human hair mixed with synthetic hair finishes the list

QUESTIONS FOR SELECTING HAIR ADDITIONS FOR CLIENTS:

What is it made of? Human, animal, mix, synthetic, or synthetic blend Is the hair color treated or virgin? If the hair is human is it graded in terms of strength, elasticity and porosity? Is the cuticle intact? (Remi or Fallen) Will the hair match the client’s hair? Can the hair be permed? Will the hair last a reasonable amount of time?

REMI = TURNED HAIR

Cuticle intact hair is the most expensive Hair in which the root end of every single

strand is swen into the base, so that the cuticles of all hair strands move in the same direction: down

Very time consuming process

FALLEN HAIR = OPPOSITE OF REMI

Hair that has been shed from the head and gathered from a hairbrush, as opposed to hair that has been cut.

Fallen hair is not turned, so the cuticles of the strands will move in different directions causing it to tangle easily

REMI REFINED

Hair that has had the cuticle partially removed so that it will not lock and mat.

This hair is less expensive than true Remi

WIG VS. HAIRPIECE

Wig-Artificial covering for the head consisting of a network of interwoven hair, where the client’s hair is completely concealed (100 % coverage)

Hairpiece- if hair addition does not fully cover the head; a small wig used to cover the top or crown of the head, or hair attachment of some sort

2 MAIN TYPES OF WIGS

Cap

Capless

CAP WIG• Constructed with an elasticized, mesh-fiber base to

which the hair is attached

• Made in several sizes

• Require special fittings

• Usually hand knotted

• The front edge is made of a material that resembles the client’s scalp and wire supports at the temples for a snug secure fit

• Hair is hand-tied under the net (under knotted) to conceal the cap edge

CAPLESS WIGS

• Aka “caps”

• Machine-made

• Hair is woven into wefts

• Rows of wefts are sewn to elastic strips in a circular patter to fit the head shape

• Frame of connected wefts with an open area

• More popular b/c they are ready to wear and less expensive

• Extremely light and comfortable to wear

• Healthier because they allow the scalp to breath

WEFTS & BUNDLES

Wefts-Long strips of hair with a threaded edge

Bundle- lose strands of hair

METHODS OF CONSTRUCTIONHAND-TIED

• Aka hand-knotted

• Made by inserting individual strands of hair into mesh foundations and knotting them with a needle

• Usually done around the front hairline and at the top of the head

• Have a natural and realistic look

• Hair has no definite direction and can be combed in almost any direction

METHODS OF CONSTRUCTIONSEMI-HAND TIED WIGS

• Constructed with a combination of synthetic hair and hand-tied human hair

• Reasonably priced

• Natural appearance

• Good durability

METHODS OF CONSTRUCTION MACHINE-MADE WIGS

• Least expensive

• Made by feeding wefts through a sewing machine then stitching them together to form base and shape

• Wefting directions could causes a disadvantage however this is a quality known as bounce back to others

WIG MEASUREMENTS

• Use a soft tape measure

• Keep it close to the head without pressure

• Each manufacture has its own form to fill out

• If the wig is ready to wear no measurements will be needed because they are adjustable via tightening and loosening straps or elastics

BLOCKING THE WIG• Block- head shaped form usually made of

canvas covered cork or Styrofoam on which the wig is secured for fitting, coloring and sometimes styling

• However today most wigs are cut and finished while on the client and then cleaned and stored on a drying rack

PUTTING ON THE WIG

• One of the most important parts of the service

• Educate the client on the importance of securing their natural hair under the wig cap and making it flat and even will determine how well the wig sits on the head

WIG ADJUSTMENTS• If the wig does not have tightening straps

you can create a small fold or tuck and sew the wig along the inside seam

• To shorten & remove bulk- create a horizontal tuck or fold across the back

• To remove width at the back create a vertical tuck and sew it in place

CUTTING WIGS

• Goal is to make the hair look more realistic

• Most effective way to do this is to taper the ends when cutting the wig

• The more solid the shape the more unnatural

• Wig should be placed on the block for cutting

• Free form cutting on dry hair is the best for wigs

• Combouts and finishing should be done while wig is on client’s head

STYLING THE WIG• Don’t lose sight of the big picture- a great stylist works with

the total person

• Most wigs have chemically treated hair so you need to be gentle with the hair

• Styling tools should be set to low

• Choose styling products that have been formulated for color treated hair

• If the wig does not have a natural looking hairline or lace front, backcomb gently around the hairline the fluffy effect softens the hairline

• You can also release some of the client’s hair around the hairline and blend it with the wig

• Try not to make it look perfect – this will cause it to look artificial

CLEANING THE WIG• Always follow the mfr’s instructions

• Use gentle shampoos formulated for chemically treated hair or specially developed for wigs

• Avoid harsh shampoos especially with a sulfur base

• Soak then gently squeeze and use the drying rack

• If it is human hair then it should also be conditioned

COLORING/PERMING WIGS / HAIRPIECES

• Use hair that has already been decolorized and not previously treated with metallic dyes

• Check with mfr or do a strand test

• Check to see if cuticle is intact- if it’s not the hair is extremely porous and will react in an extreme way

• Remember that the hair you are working on did not come from one head bur from many heads this makes the results unpredictable

• Perform all chemical processes while wig is off client’s head

WIG TEST / WIND TEST

• Best way to gauge how realistic the wig looks

• Gently use blow around the client’s face with a blow dryer and observe how the hairlines looks

HAIRPIECES• Sit on top of client’s head covering a portion of it, or are

clipped onto another area, such as the nape.• Temporary method• Some like wiglets that conceal a thinning top can be

attached with a braid and sew technique• Types: toupees, integration piece, falls, half wigs

(headband), wiglets, chignons, bandeaus, cascades, ponytails, bangs and fillers

• Many clip on with pressure sensitive clips• Hair can be blended with the hairpiece or serve as a

base for it

HAIRPIECEINTEGRATION

• A hairpiece that has openings in the base through which the client’s own hair is pulled to blend with the hairpiece

• Recommended for clients with thinning hair

• Not recommended for clients with total hair loss at the scalp because it is likely to show through

HAIRPIECETOUPEES

• A small wig used to cover the top and crown of the head

• The fine-net base is usually the most appropriate material for the client with severe hair loss

• Two methods of attachment temporary- tape or clips

• Two methods of attachment semi permanent- tracks or adhesive

FASHION HAIRPIECESPONYTAILS, CHIGNONS, CASCADES, STREAKS, BANGS, HALF WIGS, CLIP INS, FALLS

• Great salon product for special occasions

• Usually attached temporarily with hairpins, clips, combs, bobby pins or elastics

HAIR EXTENSIONS• Hair additions that are secured at the base of the client’s natural hair

in order to add length, volume, texture or color

• Can be human or synthetic

• Either wefts or strands(small bundles)

• General rule of thumb stay 1 in away from the hairline at the front, sides, nape and part line

• With very thin hair you must be careful that the base does not show through

• Curly hair tends to expand and gives the illusion of being thicker so you may not need as many extensions in curly hair as in straight hair

• Methods of attachment: braid –and –sew, bonding, fusion, linking, and tube shrinking

MOST PROFESSIONAL APPROACH & ALWAYS IN THE FOLLOWING ORDER

Safety for client’s own hair

Comfort

Security

Style

BRAID – AND - SEW• Extensions are secured to client’s own hair by sewing braids or a

weft onto an on-the-scalp braid which is commonly referred to as a “track”

• The angle of the track will determine how the hair will fall

• Tracks can be horizontal, vertical, diagonal or curved lines that follow the contour of the head

• Partings are determined according to the style that you have chosen

• When sewing extensions use only a blunt needle C curve is recommended

• When done correctly very safe technique for client’s natural hair

• No special equipment needed

• Drawbacks – too much tension can cause traction alopecia

BONDING METHOD• Method of attaching hair extensions using an adhesive or

bonding agent

• Natural hair should be at least 4 inches

• There is a certain degree of slippage

• Generally last from 2-4 weeks depends on frequency of shampooing, oiliness of scalp, dryness of scalp and quality of products used

• Client needs to be on a maintenance schedule

• Use a consistent amount of bonding agent

• Care must be taken to avoid working to close to the crown and partings or the weft will show through

• Removed by using a dissolving agent

• 2 advantages: offered at affordable price & quick service

• Drawbacks: allergic reactions to bonding ingredients because most are latex based

• Bonding should not be used to attach wefts longer than 12 in

FUSION BONDING• Method of attaching extensions; extension is bonded to the client’s own

hair with a bonding material that is activated by heat from a special tool

• This method while expensive and extremely time consuming harmonizes with the client’s natural hair with no uncomfortable or unattractive attachment sites

• The bonds are lightweight and comfortable

• Hair moves like real hair

• Easy to maintain

• Lasts up to 4 months

• Removal is quick and painless

• Usually requires manufacture certification in order to purchase

• Most strands are pre-tipped with a keratin bonding that you attach to natural hairs isolated with a hair shield

• Extensions are positioned under the natural hair and near the base

• Bond is heated and then rolled between fingers creating the bead that captures and holds both the natural hair and the extension fibers

• Drawbacks: time consuming and expensive; can cause damage if done incorrectly

LINKING

• A hook is used to pick up a small amount of hair off a parting, a link is slid on near the scalp with a special tool. Then extension is inserted then link is pinched closed with special pliers

• If removed properly with special tool extensions can be reused

• Natural hair must be at least 5 inches

• Make sure to follow a natural growth pattern

• Advantage: no chemicals

• Drawbacks: expensive, time consuming, metal links oxidize

TUBE SHRINKING

Same as linking but a tube is used in place of a metal link, it is heated so it shrinks to the hair

REVIEW QUESTIONS

1.What are the main advantages and disadvantages of human and synthetic hair?

2. What are the two basic categories of wigs?

3.What are three types of hairpieces and how are they used?

4.What are five methods for attaching hair extensions? Describe each one