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  • WELCOME TO AN A SLAND JOURNEY ST. ROIX C · NICHOLAS PROSPECT HILL BECK’S GROVE BOG OF ALLEN WALDBERG-GAARD CANE VALLEY HESSELBERG WHITE’S BAY ROSE HILL PLESSEN BIG ... 73 73
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ST. JOHN LA GRA PRINCE RATTAN C re q u e D a m 64 64 78 S ce n i c R o a d We s t 765 763 78 78 73 73 72 72 72 73 S ce n i c R o a d 75 75 64 707 S c eni c R o a d Wes t E m a ncipa t i o n Drive Centerline Road/Queen Mary Highway 76 58 78 78 70 66 66 66 661 66 70 70 70 63 63 63 78 78 69 69 69 80 80 80 70 75 75 68 68 68 66 63 705 76 70 79 79 HAM’S BLUFF LIGHTHOUSE MAROON RIDGE HAM’S BAY MONK’S BATHS BUTLER BAY SPRAT HOLE SANDY POINT NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE Diamond School Mahogany Road Estate Grove Place Estate River ESTATE FOUNTAIN CARAMBOLA GOLF COURSE Estate Cane Bay DAVIS BAY ANNALY BAY FREDERIKSTED HARBOR Estate North Star CREQUE DAM CALEDONIA VALLEY NAVAL TRACKING STATION CARAMBOLA RESORT WEST END SALTPOND BLUE MOUNTAIN MOUNT EAGLE EDUCATIONAL COMPLEX UNIVERSITY OF THE VIRGIN ISLANDS HENRY E. ROHLSEN AIRPORT TROPICAL FOREST BILL Y FR PON (HOVENSA OIL REFINERY) LONG POINT CARLTON WILLIAM’S DELIGHT GOOD HOPE HANNAH’S REST STONY GROUND TWO BROTHERS CAMPO RICO TWO WILLIAMS DIAMOND WHITE LADY SMITHFIELD MARS HILL FREDERIKS HAAB ST. GEORGE’S HILL ORANGE GROVE JOLLY HILL OXFORD PUNCH TROPICAL FOREST HARD LABOR TWO FRIENDS HOPE SPRING GARDEN WILLS BAY MOUNT STEWART CANAAN MON BIJOU JEALOUSY UPPER LOVE BETSY’S JEWEL FREDENSBORG PROFIT LA REINE MOUNT PLEASANT BONNE ESPERANCE THE GLYNN MARY’S FANCY RUBY JUDITH’S FANCY CLAIRMONT SION HILL C CA PEA ANGUILLA BETTY’S HOPE NEGRO BAY ENFIELD GREEN CANE ESTATE HOGENSBORG SALLY’S FANCY MOUNTAIN MINT RUAN’S BAY HERMITAGE PARASOL Belvedere MONTPELLIER NORTH HALL NICHOLAS PROSPECT HILL BECK’S GROVE BOG OF ALLEN CASSAVA GARDEN JERUSALEM FIGTREE HILL HOPE BLESSING COTTAGE ANNABERG SHANNON GROVE MANNING’S BAY CASTLE BURKE PATIENCE GROVE WALDBERG- GAARD CANE VALLEY HESSELBERG WHITE’S BAY ROSE HILL PLESSEN BIG FOUNTAIN KRAUSE LAGOON SPRINGFIELD SALT RIVER BONNE ESPERANCE RANDALL “DOC” JAMES RACETRACK ESTATE MT. W ASHINGTON ESTATEWHIM PLANTATIONMUSEUM FREDERIKSTED SPRAT HALL Estate Prosperity ESTATE LA GRANGE FACTORY St. Anne’s Catholic Church Estate Clifton Hill Estate Diamond-Ruby Estate Sion Farm Greathouse LAWAETZ MUSEUM AT LITTLE LA GRANGE St. Croix L.E.A.P. Estate Brooks Hill Maroon Ridge Overlook Lower Love Pullover Estate La Vallee ESTATE RUST OP TWIST COLUMBUS LANDING SITE SALT RIVER NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK Estate Concordia Estate Castle Coakley BARON BLUFF Central Plain Overlook North Shore Overlook Estate Butler Bay Mt. Victory School Estate Mt. Victory ESTATE HAM’S BAY Estate Northside Estate William Estate Wheel of Fortune Estate Concordia CRUZAN RUM DISTILLERY Adventure Estate Bethlehem Central Factory Estate Lower Love Chimney Kingshill Lutheran Church Estate Barren Spot Estate Morningstar Bodkin’s Mill Estate Annaly Davis Bay Overlook Cyril King Memorial Estate Body Slob St. Joseph’s Roman Catholic Church Whim Homestead House Estate Golden Grove Greathouse Smithens Garden Market Kingshill School West End Overlook Homestead Houses Friedensfeld Moravian Church ST. GEORGE VILLAGE BOTANICAL GARDEN St. Croix Heritage Trail Office Hotel Caravelle, 44-A Queen Cross Street Christiansted, St. Croix VI 00820 (340) 713-8563 (340) 772-0598 [email protected] Important Virgin Islands Telephone Numbers Police 778-2211 or 911 Hospital 778-6311 or 911 A bout the t rail & t his b rochure enslaved Africans forced Danish authorities to declare their emancipation in 1848. The surrounding area has been transformed into a beautiful park, with a bust of slave rebellion leader Buddhoe and a dramatic statue of a freedom fighter blowing a conch shell signaling emancipation. Featuring a museum and art gallery, the Fort is open Mon - Fri 8:30am-4pm, and Sat 1pm-4pm. Admission is free, but a $1 donation is appreciated. 772-2021. On the nearby waterfront is the picturesque vendor’s plaza, where you can purchase local art and crafts on days when cruise ships are in port. Lawaetz Museum at Little La Grange - At the edge of the tropical forest, nestled in a magical setting, this charming West Indian greathouse museum features original furnishings, photographs, heirlooms, and lore of a prominent Danish American family which has owned the property since 1896. Guided tours are available. Open Nov - Apr Tues - Sat, 10am-4pm; May - Oct Wed - Sat 10am-3pm. Admission is $6 adults, $2 children under 12. 772-0555 St. Croix LEAP - The Life Environmental Arts Project founded many years ago by noted woodworking artist Fletcher Pence still thrives in the tropical forest north of Frederiksted, and is well worth the drive. Island mahogany, tibet, and saman woods are harvested from fallen trees and given new life as exquisite pieces of furniture, clocks, serving boards, countertops, and more. Open Mon - Fri 8am-5pm, Sat 10am-4:30pm. 772-0421 Estate Mt. Washington - The current owners of this former sugar estate discovered the ruins buried in the tropical forest in 1984 and have since rebuilt the animal mill bell tower, installed authentic wooden grinding machinery, stables, planted 14 acres in citrus and avocado trees and converted the original stables into an intique shop and interior decorating studio. The surrounding property is a designated wildlife sanctuary. Open during daylight hours. Free admission. 772-1026 adult, $1 children. 692-2280 Estate Whim Plantation Museum - This beautifully restored sugar estate, featuring an elegant, well-furnished 18th century greathouse, interprets plantation life and lore during and after the days of slavery. Here, on 11 acres of manicured grounds, you can tour animal, wind, and steam mills for grinding sugarcane, taste local johnny cakes fried in the old kitchen, and shop at one of the finest gift stores on St. Croix. Open Nov 1 - Apr 30, Mon - Sat 10am-4pm; May 1 - Oct 31, Tues - Sat 10am-3pm. Admission: $6 adults, $2 children under 12. Fort Frederik - Located in Frederiksted, this fort, begun in the 1750s, is a National Historic Landmark. In 1776 the first salute from foreign soil to the new national flag of the United States was fired here. And here ©Carol Lee The landscape of St. Croix is dotted with the ruins of over 300 sugar, cotton, and cattle plantations that dominated Crucian economic, social, and cultural life between 1750 and 1950. Ranging in size from 75 to 750 acres, they encompassed the entire land mass outside the two towns. Their evocative names - Wheel of Fortune, Barren Spot, Envy, Mary’s Fancy, Adventure, Mt. Pleasant, Mt. Misery, Stoney Ground, Contentment, Jealousy, Work and Rest, Profit, Bethlehem, Anna’s Hope - conjure up stories of the dreams, successes, and misfortunes of their former owners. A source of short-term wealth to the Crucian plantocracy, the plantations were instruments of oppression and exploitation for enslaved and free working people. A typical sugar plantation contained wind, animal, and steam mills for grinding the sugar cane; a factory for processing crushed cane juice into sugar, rum, and molasses; shops for craftsmen; cattle and mule pens; a workers’ village; wells, water cisterns, and the planter’s greathouse, with an associated kitchen, domestic quarters, and other outbuildings. Stone well towers and watch houses were sometimes placed in the cane fields and pastures that surrounded the settlement complex. The best-preserved sugar plantation sites are found at Estate Whim Plantation Museum near Frederiksted and Estate Little Princesse near Christiansted. Both are full service attractions. Plantation ruins can also be explored at Estate Mt. Washington, St. George Village Botanical Garden, the Lawaetz Museum at Little La Grange, Estate Anna’s Hope, and Estate Butler Bay . Between October and June the St. Croix Landmarks Society conducts monthly “Ruins Rambles” to otherwise inaccessible estates. In addition, several tour operators interpret historic ruins in their hiking, biking, and horseback riding excursions. The St. Croix Heritage Trail traverses the entire 28 mile length of St. Croix, linking the historic seaports of Frederiksted and Christiansted with the fertile central plain, the mountainous Northside, and the arid East End. The route, which follows modernized 18th century roads, offers a wide cross-section of the island’s history, culture, landscapes, and outdoor activities. The Trail traces the evolution of the island, from pre-Columbian peoples through sugar and cotton plantations to cattle farms, homesteads, suburban communities, industrial complexes and tourist resorts to St. Croix in the 21st century. Heritage attractions, recreational opportunities, local arts and crafts, churches, viewscapes, agricultural traditions and St. Croix’s complex multi-component heritage are identified and interpreted at several locations along the way. St. Croix’s history and culture have been shaped over the last 350 years by European planters and merchants, enslaved Africans, free people of color, Caribbean immigrants and American settlers. Through war and peace, great prosperity and grinding poverty, colonialism, insurrections and incessant struggle, their lives and folkways have been woven into a colorful tapestry which their descendents are eager to share with you. remarkable diversity of this beautiful tropical island, once called the “Garden of the Caribbean.” ©Carol Lee Senepol Cattle at Pasture WELCOME TO AN I SLAND J OURNEY P LANTATIONS Christiansted National Historic Site - Administered by the National Park Service. This waterfront site features several restored 18th century buildings. Fort Christiansvaern is open weekdays 8am-5pm, weekends 9am-5pm. Closed on Christmas Day. Government House - The imposing building on King Street is an outstanding example of the splendor of Danish colonial architecture and the opulance of the sugar plantation era. Its elegant ballroom was the site of festive gatherings hosted by the governors of the colony and is still used for government functions. The building has undergone major historical renovation and preservation. You may take a glimpse of the ballroom and walk through the courtyard weekdays 8am-5pm. No admission charge. Apothecary Museum - Housed in its original location on Queen Cross Street, this impressive display of pharmaceutical bottles and paraphernalia is open Monday through Saturday 10 am - 4pm. Admission is free. Customs House, Christiansted ©Carol Lee Government House, Christiansted ©Diane Butler Crucians are a religious people. The many churches scattered throughout the island bear witness to this spirituality. They also reflect the denominational diversity and religious tolerance that has characterized the island since Danish times. Lutherans, Anglicans, Roman Catholics, Dutch Reformed, Moravians and Jews all established places of worship during the 18th century. The Moravians came as missionaries to convert the enslaved Africans, and their success encouraged other faiths to follow suit. Since the 1920s the mainstream denominations have been joined by a host of sectarian faiths. Several historic churches of outstanding cultural and architectural value distinguish St. Croix. Of particular interest are the Friedensthal Moravian Church just outside of Christiansted and Friedensfeld Moravian Church at Estate Mon Bijou. Built in the 1850s, both are listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The Heritage Trail will take you past Friedensthal as you enter Christiansted from the west. Other noteworthy churches in Christiansted: Lord God of Sabaoth Lutheran Church, built in 1744 by the Dutch Reformed Congregation and transferred to the Lutheran Church in 1834; Holy Cross Roman Catholic Church, built in 1750 and extensively remodeled after a fire in 1858; St. John’s Anglican Church, constructed originally in 1760 and restored after a fire in 1866. The Steeple Building, now a museum within the Christiansted National Historic Site, was built in 1753 as a Lutheran church. The steeple was added in 1796. In Frederiksted you can enjoy St. Patrick’s Roman Catholic Church, an interesting blend of Gothic Revival and Spanish Mission styles constructed in 1848; Holy Trinity Lutheran Church, built in 1792 on the site of the original church consecrated in 1771; St. Paul’s Anglican Church, built in 1812 and beautifully renovated after a fire in 1998. Outside the towns the Heritage Trail will take you by the following churches built to accommodate the plantation workers in the central plain: St. Ann’s Church at Estate Barren Spot, built in 1815 on the site of an eighteenth century Roman Catholic chapel; Kingshill Lutheran Church built in 1912; St. Joseph’s Roman Catholic Church, built in th 1930s. Two other interesting churches off the Trail are Holy Cross Anglican Church, built in 1913 (at the intersection of Rtes. 72 and 669) and St. Luke’s African Methodist Episcopal Church, erected in 1933 to serve the members of the St. Croix Labor Union residing at Estate Grove Place. H istoric S ites As with many memorable journeys, there is no real beginning or end of the trail. You may want to start your drive at either Christiansted or Frederiksted as a point of reference, or you can begin at a point close to where you’re staying. If you want to take it easy, you can cover the trail in segments by following particular subroutes, such as the “East End Loop,” delineated on the map. The Heritage Trail will take you to three levels of sites: full-service Attractions that can be toured: Visitation Sites, like churches, with irregular hours; and Points of Interest, which you can view, but are not open to the public. Along the route you will find an assortment of amenities, such as gas stations, restaurants, shops and roadside vendors. Brown and white Heritage Trail road signs with a sugar mill symbol are positioned to help guide you along the Trail route. These signs do not mark a site location. Managed attractions and visitation sites are generally identified by some kind of signage; however, points of interest may not yet be marked. If you have trouble finding a particular place, don’t hesitate to politely ask someone. You will nearly always receive a courteous response, and it is a good way to strike up a conversation. The brochure map also delineates the Trail route and identifies sites found along the way. Heritage Attractions are designated by BOLD TEXT IN SMALL CAPITALS. Visitor information for these sites can be found in the Heritage Attractions section below. Visitation sites are designated by Bold Italic Text. The icons shown inv association with each site represent attributes found there, such as greathouse, windmill, nature, or viewscape. All St. Croix roads are not portrayed, so do not consider this a detailed road map. Please remember to drive on the left, a remnant traffic rule bequeathed by our Danish past. The speed limit along the Trail ranges between 25 and 35 mph, unless otherwise noted. Seat belts are mandatory, so “buckle up” at all times. At intersections look right first for oncoming traffic, then look left, right again, then proceed with caution. As you look for sites along the Trail, please be considerate of vehicles behind you. You may need to pull over to the side of the road to study your map or to ask for directions. Please do so with caution. Have a safe journey! A bout the t rail & t his b rochure Buckle Up! It’s V.I. Law! St. Croix is rich with historic sites associated with its plantation agriculture and overseas commerce. Everywhere you go along the Heritage Trail you will see sugar plantation ruins (usually identified by windmill towers and/or chimneys), restored 18th and 19th century greathouses, and abandoned plantation villages. Here and there you will pass by old schoolhouses or churches built to serve the plantation workers. Some of these historic places have been preserved and can be visited. (See Attractions section below). Others can only be viewed from the roadside. When you are done touring by car, you can wander around the picturesque port towns of Frederiksted and Christiansted, where you will discover many fine shops and restaurants housed in ancient buildings. F rederiksted & C hristiansted The Heritage Trail pivots around St. Croix’s two historic seaports, Frederiksted on the west coast, and Christiansted on the north shore. Carefully laid out in accordance with grid plans and strict building codes imposed by the Danes, these well-preserved towns feature some of the finest colonial architecture in the Caribbean. A ttractions Important Virgin Islands Telephone Numbers Police 778-2211 or 911 Hospital 778-6311 or 911 Eco Hiking and Touring - Several knowledgeable eco-hiking companies offer fun & educational excursions which include cultural, historical, and ethnobotanical talks. Experience eastern hills above pristine Jack’s Bay, central pastures and watersheds like Est. Hermitage, and western ridges and rugged beachfront, exemplified by Maroon Ridge and Annaly Bay’s pools. Contact Ay-Ay Eco Hike’s Ras Lumumba Corriette for details. 772-4079 Base Array Telescope - This 240-ton, 82-foot wide dish antenna is a component of a radio telescope system designed to penetrate deeply into the universe through the interception of radio waves. It is part of the VLBA, or Very Long Baseline Array, which consists of ten similar sites from Hawaii to the Virgin Islands. Group tours can be arranged by special appointment only. 773-0196 Point Udall - The easternmost point of the United States named for former Secretary of the Interior Stuart Udall, has beautiful sea vistas. A hiking trail leads to some of the island’s most remote beaches at Jack’s and Isaac’s Bays. A monument was constructed at the Point to commemorate the new millennium. Estate Little Princess - Established as a sugar plantation in the 1730s, this 24-acre Nature Conservancy preserve is being restored to create a community center for education and research. A self-guided trail with interpretive signs meanders the estate ruins and ends up at a small beach with a splendid view of Christiansted Harbor. Open Mon - Fri 9am-2pm. Closed Federal holidays. Admission is $3. Groups of ten or more are asked to make an appointment. 773-5575 Salt River Bay National Historical Park & Ecological Preserve - Encompassing an extensive mangrove-lined estuary on the north Fort Frederik The Windmill at Whim Plantation Museum ©Carol Lee shore, this attraction contains many archaeological and ecological treasures. Within its boundary is the Columbus Landing Site, a National Historic Landmark that commemorates the armed clash in 1493 between resident Caribs and soldiers from Columbus’ fleet anchored at the mouth of the Bay. Diving, kayaking, and sightseeing tours are available. 773-1460 St. George Village Botanical Garden - An interesting blend of history and flora, the Garden is built upon 17 acres of a Native American settlement and the ruins of an 18th century sugar plantation. Featured are exotic tropical plants and trees, a cactus garden and rain-forest walk. A nursery and gift shop complete the area. Open Nov - Apr, seven days a week, 9am-5pm; May-Oct, Tues-Sat 9am-4pm. Admission: $5 adults, $1 children. 692-2874 Cruzan Rum Distillery - A sweet aroma permeates the warm air as you approach the rum distillery, where world-famous Cruzan Rum is still processed according to a centuries-old recipe. Tour the factory and discover how our popular rum is made. Learn the difference between light rum and dark rum, how varying proofs are achieved, and sample a Cruzan Rum for yourself. Guided tours are Monday - Friday, 9am-11:30am and 1pm-4:15pm. Admission: $4 Peter Von Scholten served as Governor-General of the Danish West Indies from 1827 to 1848. Among his reforms was the establishment of eight schools on St. Croix to help prepare enslaved children for their eventual freedom. Designed by the renowned Danish architect Albert Lovmand, these schools were first staffed by Moravian missionaries and later by educators who were previously pupils at these schools. The Heritage Trail will take you by several of these schools that are still in use as educational and community centers: Diamond School, La Grande Princesse School, Peter’s Rest School, and Kingshill School. The ruins of Mt. Victory School can be seen along the Creque Dam Road, while the East Hill School has been incorporated into a private residence. CHRISTIANSTED FREDERIKSTED S T. C ROIX S T. C ROIX St. Croix Heritage Trail Office Hotel Caravelle, 44-A Queen Cross Street Christiansted, St. Croix VI 00820 (340) 713-8563 (340) 772-0598 [email protected] Your Guide to the History, Culture, and Nature of St. Croix, U.S. Virgin Islands Your Guide to the History, Culture, and Nature of St. Croix, U.S. Virgin Islands The American Express Company provided major financial support for this brochure. We are proud that the St. Croix Heritage Trail has been designated one of fifty Millennium Legacy Trails by the White House Millennium Council. These nationally recognized trails symbolize the spirit of efforts to connect the nation’s culture, heritage and communities. More information on this national system can be found at www.millenniumtrails.org WELCOME TO AN I SLAND J OURNEY C hurches V on S cholten S chools Friedensfeld Midlands Moravian Church Remember to KEEP LEFT! This important message is brought to you by V.I.A.R.A. THE VIRGIN ISLANDS AUTO RENTAL ASSOCIATION ©Carol Lee ©Diane Butler ©Diane Butler Key to Icons Ruin Chimney Sugar Mill Von Scholten School Cemetery Church Nature Area Overlook/ Pullover Greathouse CHRISTIANSTED Christiansted is distinguished by its wealth of neoclassic buildings, arcaded streetscapes, and spacious waterfront square. Founded in 1735, the town flourished as the main shipping center and seat of government between 1755 and 1871. The streets leading to the waterfront are lined with 2- and 3-story merchant shops and planter townhouses dating from the early prosperous time. The street floors of these colonial buildings served as warehouses and businesses. Today they house stores and restaurants. Former living quarters on the upper floors, graced by shuttered windows and dormers, have been converted into offices. Distinctive arched galleries provide shaded walkways along the building entrances. Here and there you come upon gateways opening to cool interior courtyards and old warehouse arcades. The town’s centerpiece is the Christiansted National Historic Site, which encompasses the historic waterfront square. Here sailing ships docked to unload goods from Europe and North America, and slaves from Africa, and left laden with sugar and rum. Administered by the National Park Service, the site contains several restored 18th century buildings that are open to the public: Fort Christiansvaern (with cannons still trained on the harbor entrance), the Steeple Building Museum, the Danish Customs House, the Scale House, and the Danish West India & Guinea Company Warehouse, which also functioned as a slave market. ©Carol Lee Greathouse at Whim Plantation Museum Castle Burke Plantation, circa 1833 Whim Plantation Museum Governor-General Peter von Scholten FREDERIKSTED Frederiksted is characterized by a smaller scale, wider streets, and charming Victorian architectural detailing. Founded in the 1750s, the town languished until the second half of the 19th century, when it replaced Christiansted as the main port and supported a vibrant community of craftsmen, dockworkers, fishermen, small shopkeepers, and merchants. After being virtually destroyed during a labor insurrection called the “fire burn” in 1878, Frederiksted was quickly rebuilt by skilled local craftsmen influenced by the gingerbread style of the late Victorian period. Frederiksted’s finest feature is Strand Street, with its beautiful waterfront promenade and shops and restaurants shaded by arched colonnades. Its northern end culminates in a broad waterfront plaza bordered by historic Fort Frederik, the island’s cruise pier, the Customs House, and Emancipation Park, whose name and statuary commemorate the freedom fighters of 1848. The residential quarters of Christiansted and Frederiksted, formerly inhabited by the free people of color, poor whites, and emancipated slaves, and more recently by Caribbean immigrants, are found at the edges of the commercial centers. They are characterized by small one- and two-story wood frame houses, with hip roofs and small inner yards. The yards provided communal outdoor living space for several households. In these residential areas also can be found most of the colonial churches which are discussed in the Churches section. Our historic towns can best be seen and appreciated on foot. We highly recommend that you take walking tours, using either the self-guiding brochure provided by the Office of Tourism or a knowledgeable tour operator. Historic cemeteries, with inscribed tombstones of Crucians of all classes and nationalities, are associated with nearly all of these churches. The Christiansted town cemetery is immediately adjacent to St. John’s Anglican Church. The Frederiksted town cemetery is directly across the street from Holy Trinity Lutheran Church. Churches and cemeteries are usually open for visitation. Feel free to stop by and visit, or attend a service. But please do so in a respectful manner and with appropriate attire.

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    MAROON RIDGE

    HAM’SBAY

    MONK’SBATHS

    BUTLERBAY

    SPRATHOLE

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    REFUGE

    DiamondSchool

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    EstateGrovePlace

    ESTATE FOUNTAINCARAMBOLA GOLF COURSE

    DAVISBAY

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    Estate North Star

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    CARAMBOLA RESORT

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    ESTATELA GRANGEFACTORY

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    Estate Mt. Victory

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    ESTATEMT. WASHINGTON

    ESTATEWHIMPLANTATIONMUSEUM

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    ESTATELA GRANGEFACTORY

    St. Anne’sCatholicChurch

    EstateClifton Hill

    EstateDiamond-Ruby

    EstateSion Farm

    Greathouse

    LAWAETZ MUSEUMAT LITTLE LA GRANGE

    St. Croix L.E.A.P.Estate Brooks Hill

    Maroon RidgeOverlook

    Lower LovePullover

    Estate La Vallee

    ESTATE RUST OP TWIST

    COLUMBUSLANDING

    SITE

    SALT RIVERNATIONAL

    HISTORICALPARK

    EstateConcordia

    EstateCastleCoakley

    BARON BLUFF

    Central PlainOverlook

    North ShoreOverlook

    Estate Butler Bay

    Mt. VictorySchool

    Estate Mt. Victory

    ESTATEHAM’S BAY

    Estate Northside

    EstateWilliam

    EstateWheel of Fortune

    EstateConcordia

    CRUZAN RUMDISTILLERY

    Adventure

    EstateBethlehem

    CentralFactory

    EstateLower Love

    ChimneyKingshillLutheranChurch

    EstateBarren Spot

    EstateMorningstar

    Bodkin’sMill

    Estate Annaly

    Davis BayOverlook

    Cyril KingMemorial

    EstateBody Slob

    St. Joseph’sRoman Catholic

    Church

    Whim HomesteadHouse

    EstateGolden Grove

    Greathouse

    SmithensGardenMarket

    KingshillSchool

    West EndOverlook

    HomesteadHouses

    FriedensfeldMoravian

    Church

    ST. GEORGE VILLAGEBOTANICAL GARDEN

    St. Croix Heritage Trail OfficeHotel Caravelle, 44-A Queen Cross Street

    Christiansted, St. Croix VI 00820(340) 713-8563 (340) 772-0598

    [email protected]

    Important Virgin Islands Telephone Numbers

    Police 778-2211 or 911 Hospital 778-6311 or 911

    About the trail & this brochure

    enslaved Africans forced Danish authorities to declare their emancipation in 1848. The surrounding area has been transformed into a beautiful park, with a bust of slave rebellion leader Buddhoe and a dramatic statue of a freedom fighter blowing a conch shell signaling emancipation. Featuring a museum and art gallery, the Fort is open Mon - Fri 8:30am-4pm, and Sat 1pm-4pm. Admission is free, but a $1 donation is appreciated. 772-2021. On the nearby waterfront is the picturesque vendor’s plaza, where you can purchase local art and crafts on days when cruise ships are in port.

    Lawaetz Museum at Little La Grange - At the edge of the tropical forest, nestled in a magical setting, this charming West Indian greathouse museum features original furnishings, photographs, heirlooms, and lore of a prominent Danish American family which has owned the property since 1896. Guided tours are available. Open Nov - Apr Tues - Sat, 10am-4pm; May - Oct Wed - Sat 10am-3pm. Admission is $6 adults, $2 children under 12. 772-0555

    St. Croix LEAP - The Life Environmental Arts Project founded many years ago by noted woodworking artist Fletcher Pence still thrives in the tropical forest north of Frederiksted, and is well worth the drive. Island mahogany, tibet, and saman woods are harvested from fallen trees and given new life as exquisite pieces of furniture, clocks, serving boards, countertops, and more. Open Mon - Fri 8am-5pm, Sat 10am-4:30pm. 772-0421

    Estate Mt. Washington - The current owners of this former sugar estate discovered the ruins buried in the tropical forest in 1984 and have since rebuilt the animal mill bell tower, installed authentic wooden grinding machinery, stables, planted 14 acres in citrus and avocado trees and converted the original stables into an intique shop and interior decorating studio. The surrounding property is a designated wildlife sanctuary. Open during daylight hours.Free admission. 772-1026

    adult, $1 children. 692-2280

    Estate Whim Plantation Museum - This beautifully restored sugar estate, featur ing an e legant, well-furnished 18th century greathouse, interprets plantation life and lore during and after the days of slavery. Here, on 11 acres of manicured grounds, you can tour animal, wind, and steam mills for grinding sugarcane, taste local johnny cakes fried in the old kitchen, and shop at one of the finest gift stores on St. Croix. Open Nov 1 - Apr 30, Mon - Sat 10am-4pm; May 1 - Oct 31, Tues - Sat 10am-3pm.

    Admission: $6 adults, $2 children under 12.

    Fort Frederik - Located in Frederiksted, this fort, begun in the 1750s, is a Na t i o n a l Hi s to r i c Landmark. In 1776 the first salute from foreign soil to the new national flag of the United States was fired here. And here©C

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    The landscape of St. Croix is dotted with the ruins of over 300 sugar, cotton, and cattle plantations that dominated Crucian economic, social, and cultural life between 1750 and 1950. Ranging in size from 75 to 750 acres, they encompassed the entire land mass outside the two towns. Their evocative names - Wheel of Fortune, Barren Spot, Envy, Mary’s Fancy, Adventure, Mt. Pleasant, Mt. Misery, Stoney Ground, Contentment, Jealousy, Work and Rest, Profit, Bethlehem, Anna’s Hope - conjure up stories of the dreams, successes, and misfortunes of their former owners. A source of short-term wealth to the Crucian plantocracy, the plantations were instruments of oppression and exploitation for enslaved and free working people.

    A typical sugar plantation contained wind, animal, and steam mills for grinding the sugar cane; a factory for processing crushed cane juice into sugar, rum, and molasses; shops for craftsmen; cattle and mule pens; a

    w o r k e r s ’ village; wells, water cisterns, and the planter’s greathouse, with an associated kitchen, domestic quarters, and other outbuildings. Stone well towers and watch houses were sometimes placed in the cane fields and pastures that surrounded the settlement complex.

    The best-preserved sugar plantation sites are found at Estate Whim Plantation Museum near Frederiksted and Estate Little Princesse near Christiansted. Both are full service attractions. Plantation ruins can also be explored at Estate Mt. Washington, St. George Village Botanical Garden, the Lawaetz Museum at Little La Grange, Estate Anna’s Hope, and Estate Butler Bay. Between October and June the St. Croix Landmarks Society conducts monthly “Ruins Rambles” to otherwise inaccessible estates. In addition, several tour operators interpret historic ruins in their hiking, biking, and horseback riding excursions.

    The St. Croix Heritage Trail traverses the entire 28 mile length of St. Croix, linking the historic seaports of Frederiksted and Christiansted with the fertile central plain, the mountainous Northside, and the arid East End. The route, which follows modernized 18th century roads, offers a wide cross-section of the island’s history, culture, landscapes, and outdoor activities. The Trail traces the evolution of the island, from pre-Columbian peoples through sugar and cotton plantations to cattle farms, homesteads, suburban communities, industrial complexes and tourist resorts to St. Croix in the 21st century.

    Heritage attractions, recreational opportunities, local arts and crafts, churches, viewscapes, agricultural traditions and St. Croix’s complex multi-component heritage are identified and interpreted at several locations along the way.

    St. Croix’s history and culture have been shaped over the last 350 years by European planters and merchants, enslaved Africans, free people of color, Caribbean immigrants and American settlers. Through war and peace, great prosperity and grinding poverty, colonialism, insurrections and incessant struggle, their lives and folkways have been woven into a colorful tapestry which their descendents are eager to share with you. remarkable diversity of this beautiful tropical island, once called the “Garden of the Caribbean.” ©C

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    Senepol Cattle at Pasture

    WELCOME TO AN ISLAND JOURNEY

    PLANTATIONS

    Christiansted National Historic Site - Administered by the National Park Service. This waterfront site features several restored 18th century buildings. Fort Christiansvaern is o p e n w e e k d a y s 8am-5pm, weekends 9am-5pm. Closed on Christmas Day. Government House - The imposing building on King Street is an outstanding example of the splendor of Danish

    colonial architecture and the o p u l a n c e o f t h e s u g a r plantation era. Its elegant ballroom was the site of festive gatherings hosted by the governors of the colony and is still used for government functions. The building has undergone major historical

    renovation and preservation. You may take a glimpse of the ballroom and walk through the courtyard weekdays 8am-5pm. No admission charge.

    Apothecary Museum - Housed in its original location on Queen Cross Street, this impressive display of pharmaceutical bottles and paraphernalia is open Monday through Saturday 10 am - 4pm. Admission is free.

    Customs House, Christiansted

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    Government House, Christiansted

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    Crucians are a religious people. The many churches scattered throughout the island bear witness to this spirituality. They also reflect the denominational diversity and religious tolerance that has characterized the island since Danish times. Lutherans, Anglicans, Roman Catholics, Dutch Reformed, Moravians and Jews all established places of worship during the 18th century. The Moravians came as missionaries to convert the enslaved Africans, and their success encouraged other faiths to follow suit. Since the 1920s the mainstream denominations have been joined by a host of sectarian faiths.

    Several historic churches of outstanding cultural and architectural value distinguish St. Croix. Of particular interest are the Friedensthal Moravian Church just outside of Christiansted and Friedensfeld Moravian Church at Estate Mon Bijou. Built in the 1850s, both are listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The Heritage Trail will take you past Friedensthal as you enter Christiansted from the west.

    Other noteworthy churches in Christiansted: Lord God of Sabaoth Lutheran Church, built in 1744 by the Dutch Reformed Congregation and transferred to the Lutheran Church in 1834; Holy Cross Roman Catholic Church, built in 1750 and extensively remodeled after a fire in 1858; St. John’s Anglican Church, constructed originally in 1760 and restored after a fire in 1866. The Steeple Building, now a museum within the Christiansted National Historic Site, was built in 1753 as a Lutheran church. The steeple was added in 1796.

    In Frederiksted you can enjoy St. Patrick’s Roman Catholic Church, an interesting blend of Gothic Revival and Spanish Mission styles constructed in 1848; Holy Trinity Lutheran Church, built in 1792 on the site of the original church consecrated in 1771; St. Paul’s Anglican Church, built in 1812 and beautifully renovated after a fire in 1998.

    Outside the towns the Heritage Trail will take you by the following churches built to accommodate the plantation workers in the central plain: St. Ann’s Church at Estate Barren Spot, built in 1815 on the site of an eighteenth century Roman Catholic chapel; Kingshill Lutheran Church built in 1912; St. Joseph’s Roman Catholic Church, built in th 1930s. Two other interesting churches off the Trail

    are Holy Cross Anglican Church, built in 1913 (at the intersection of Rtes. 72 and 669) and St. Luke’s A f r i c a n Me t h o d i s t Episcopal Church, erected i n 1 9 3 3 t o s e r ve t h e members of the St. Croix Labor Union residing at Estate Grove Place.

    Historic Sites

    As with many memorable journeys, there is no real beginning or end of the trail. You may want to start your drive at either Christiansted or Frederiksted as a point of reference, or you can begin at a point close to where you’re staying. If you want to take it easy, you can cover the trail in segments by following particular subroutes, such as the “East End Loop,” delineated on the map. The Heritage Trail will take you to three levels of sites: full-service Attractions that can be toured: Visitation Sites, like churches, with irregular hours; and Points of Interest, which you can view, but are not open to the public. Along the route you will find an assortment of amenities, such as gas stations, restaurants, shops and roadside vendors. Brown and white Heritage Trail road signs with a sugar mill symbol are positioned to help guide you along the Trail route. These signs do not mark a site location.

    Managed at t rac t ions and visitation sites are generally identif ied by some kind of signage; however, points of interest may not yet be marked. If you have trouble f inding a particular place, don’t hesitate to politely ask someone. You will

    nearly always receive a courteous response, and it is a good way to strike up a conversation. The brochure map also delineates the Trail route and identifies sites found along the way. Heritage Attractions are designated by BOLD TEXT IN SMALL CAPITALS. Visitor information for these sites can be found in the Heritage Attractions section below. Visitation sites are designated by Bold Italic Text. The icons shown inv

    association with each site represent attributes found there, such as greathouse, windmill, nature, or viewscape. All St. Croix roads are not portrayed, so do not consider this a detailed road map.

    Please remember to drive on the left, a remnant traffic rule bequeathed by our Danish past. The speed limit along the Trail ranges between 25 and 35 mph, unless otherwise noted. Seat belts are mandatory, so “buckle up” at all times. At intersections look right first for oncoming traffic, then look left, right again, then proceed with caution. As you look for sites along the Trail, please be considerate of vehicles behind you. You may need to pull over to the side of the road to study your map or to ask for directions. Please do so with caution. Have a safe journey!

    About the trail & this brochure

    Buckle Up! It’s V.I. Law!

    St. Croix is rich with historic sites associated with its plantation agriculture and overseas commerce. Everywhere you go along the Heritage Trail you will see sugar plantation ruins (usually identified by windmill towers and/or chimneys), restored 18th and 19th century greathouses, and abandoned plantation villages. Here and there you will pass by old schoolhouses or churches built to serve the plantation workers. Some of these historic places have been preserved and can be visited. (See Attractions section below). Others can only be viewed from the roadside. When you are done touring by car, you can wander around the picturesque port towns of Frederiksted and Christiansted, where you will discover many fine shops and restaurants housed in ancient buildings.

    Frederiksted & Christiansted The Heritage Trail pivots around St. Croix’s two historic seaports, Frederiksted on the west coast, and Christiansted on the north shore. Carefully laid out in accordance with grid plans and strict building codes imposed by the Danes, these well-preserved towns feature s o m e o f t h e f i n e s t c o l o n i a l a r c h i t e c t u r e i n t h e C a r i b b e a n .

    Attractions

    Important Virgin Islands Telephone Numbers

    Police 778-2211 or 911 Hospital 778-6311 or 911

    Eco Hiking and Touring - Several knowledgeable eco-hiking companies offer fun & educational excursions which include cultural, histor ical , and ethnobotanical talks. Experience eastern hills above pristine Jack’s Bay, central p a s t u r e s a n d watersheds like Est. Her m i t a ge , a n d western ridges and rugged beachfront, exempli f ied by Maroon Ridge and Annaly Bay’s pools. Contact Ay-Ay Eco Hike’s Ras Lumumba Corriette for details. 772-4079

    Base Array Telescope - This 240-ton, 82-foot wide dish antenna is a component of a radio telescope system designed to penetrate deeply into the universe through the interception of radio waves. It is part of the VLBA, or Very Long Baseline Array, which consists of ten similar sites from Hawaii to the Virgin Islands. Group tours can be arranged by special appointment only. 773-0196

    Point Udall - The easternmost point of the United States named for former Secretary of the Interior Stuart Udall, has beautiful sea vistas. A hiking trail leads to some of the island’s most remote beaches at Jack’s and Isaac’s Bays. A monument was constructed at the Point to commemorate the new millennium.

    Estate Little Princess - Established as a sugar plantation in the 1730s, this 24-acre Nature Conservancy preserve is being restored to create a community center for education and research. A self-guided trail with interpretive signs meanders the estate ruins and ends up at a small beach with a splendid view of Christiansted Harbor. Open Mon - Fri 9am-2pm. Closed Federal holidays. Admission is $3. Groups of ten or more are asked to make an appointment. 773-5575

    Salt River Bay National Historical Park & Ecological Preserve - Encompassing an extensive mangrove-lined estuary on the north

    Fort Frederik

    The Windmill at Whim Plantation Museum

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    shore, this attraction contains many archaeological

    and ecological treasures. Within its boundary is the Columbus Landing Site,

    a National Histor ic Landmark that commemorates the armed clash in 1493 between

    resident Caribs and soldiers from Columbus’ fleet anchored at the mouth of the Bay. Diving, kayaking, and sightseeing tours are available. 773-1460

    St. George Village Botanical Garden - An interesting blend of history and flora, the Garden is built upon 17 acres of a Native American settlement and the ruins of an 18th century sugar plantation. Featured are exotic tropical plants and trees, a cactus garden and rain-forest walk. A nursery and gift shop complete the

    area. Open Nov - Apr, seven days a week, 9am-5pm; May-Oct, Tues-Sat 9am-4pm. Admission: $5 adults, $1 children. 692-2874

    Cruzan Rum Distillery - A sweet aroma permeates the warm air as you approach the rum distillery, where world-famous Cruzan Rum is still processed according to a centuries-old recipe. Tour the factory and discover how our popular rum is made. Learn the difference between light rum and dark rum, how varying proofs are achieved, and sample a Cruzan Rum for yourself. Guided tours are Monday - Friday, 9am-11:30am and 1pm-4:15pm. Admission: $4

    Peter Von Scholten s e r v e d a s Governor-General of the Danish West Indies from 1827 to 1848. Among his r e f o r m s w a s t h e establishment of eight schools on St. Croix to help prepare enslaved children for their eventual freedom. Designed by the r e n o w n e d D a n i s h

    architect Albert Lovmand, these schools were first staffed by Moravian missionaries and later by educators who were previously pupils at these schools. The Heritage Trail will take you by several of these schools that are still in use as educational and community centers: Diamond School, La Grande Princesse School, Peter’s Rest School, and Kingshill School. The ruins of Mt. Victory School can be seen along the Creque Dam Road, while the East Hill School has been incorporated into a private residence.

    CHRISTIANSTED

    FREDERIKSTED

    ST. CROIXST. CROIX

    St. Croix Heritage Trail OfficeHotel Caravelle, 44-A Queen Cross Street

    Christiansted, St. Croix VI 00820(340) 713-8563 (340) 772-0598

    [email protected]

    Your Guide to theHistory, Culture, and Nature

    of St. Croix, U.S. Virgin Islands

    Your Guide to theHistory, Culture, and Nature

    of St. Croix, U.S. Virgin Islands

    The American Express Company providedmajor financial support for this brochure.

    We are proud that the St. Croix Heritage Trail has been designated

    one of fifty Millennium Legacy Trails by the White House Millennium Council. These nationally recognized trails symbolize the spirit of efforts to connect the nation’s culture, heritage and communities. More information on this national system can be f o u n d a t w w w . m i l l e n n i u m t r a i l s . o r g

    WELCOME TO AN ISLAND JOURNEY

    Churches

    Von ScholtenSchools

    Friedensfeld Midlands Moravian Church

    Remember to KEEP LEFT!

    This important message is brought to you by

    V.I.A.R.A.THE VIRGIN ISLANDS AUTO RENTAL ASSOCIATION

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    Key to Icons

    Ruin

    Chimney

    Sugar Mill

    Von ScholtenSchool

    Cemetery

    Church

    NatureArea

    Overlook/Pullover

    Greathouse

    CHRISTIANSTED Christiansted is distinguished by its wealth of neoclassic buildings, arcaded streetscapes, and spacious waterfront square. Founded in 1735, the town flourished as the main shipping center and seat of government between 1755 and 1871. The streets leading to the waterfront are lined with 2- and 3-story merchant shops and planter townhouses dating from the early prosperous time. The street floors of these colonial buildings served as warehouses and businesses. Today they house stores and restaurants. Former living quarters on the upper floors, graced by shuttered windows and dormers, have been converted into offices. Distinctive arched galleries provide shaded walkways along the building entrances. Here and there you come upon gateways opening to cool interior courtyards and old warehouse arcades.

    The town’s centerpiece is the Christiansted National Historic Site, which encompasses the historic waterfront square. Here sailing ships docked to unload goods from Europe and North America, and slaves from Africa, and left laden with sugar and rum. Administered by the National Park Service, the site contains several restored 18th century buildings that are open to the public: Fort Christiansvaern (with cannons still trained on the harbor entrance), the Steeple Building Museum, the Danish Customs House, the Scale House, and the Danish West India & Guinea Company Warehouse, which also functioned as a slave market.

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    Greathouse at Whim Plantation Museum

    Castle Burke Plantation, circa 1833

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    Governor-General Peter von Scholten

    FREDERIKSTED Frederiksted is characterized by a smaller scale, wider streets, and charming Victorian architectural detailing. Founded in the 1750s, the town languished until the second half of the 19th century, when it replaced Christiansted as the main port and supported a vibrant community of craftsmen, dockworkers, fishermen, small shopkeepers, and merchants. After being virtually destroyed during a labor insurrection called the “fire burn” in 1878, Frederiksted was quickly rebuilt by skilled local craftsmen influenced by the gingerbread style of the late Victorian period.

    Frederiksted’s finest feature is Strand Street, with its beautiful waterfront promenade and shops and restaurants shaded by arched colonnades. Its northern end culminates in a broad waterfront plaza bordered by historic Fort Frederik, the island’s cruise pier, the Customs House, and Emancipation Park, whose name and statuary commemorate the freedom fighters of 1848.

    The residential quarters of Christiansted and Frederiksted, formerly inhabited by the free people of color, poor whites, and emancipated slaves, and more recently by Caribbean immigrants, are found at the edges of the commercial centers. They are characterized by small one- and two-story wood frame houses, with hip roofs and small inner yards. The yards provided communal outdoor living space for several households. In these residential areas also can be found most of the colonial churches which are discussed in the Churches section.

    Our historic towns can best be seen and appreciated on foot. We highly recommend that you take walking tours, using either the self-guiding brochure provided by the Office of Tourism or a knowledgeable tour operator.

    Historic cemeteries, with inscribed tombstones of Crucians of all classes and nationalities, are associated with nearly all of these churches. The Christiansted town cemetery is immediately adjacent to St. John’s Anglican Church. The Frederiksted town cemetery is directly across the street from Holy Trinity Lutheran Church. Churches and cemeteries are usually open for visitation. Feel free to stop by and visit, or attend a service. But please do so in a respectful manner and with appropriate attire.

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    Estate Coakley Bay

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    GOAT H ILLS

    EstateGreat Pond

    TEAGUEBAY

    LONGPOINT

    The topography of the island of St. Croix varies from the mountainous areas of the northwest, to central plains, to arid rolling hills toward the east, to a broad, rolling plain along the southern coastline, and finally, to fringing flat sand beaches. The highest point on St. Croix is Mount Eagle at 1165 feet. Most of the island is made up of

    ancient marine sediments, with eroded materials found in layers atop these

    sediments. Although igneous rocks underlie some of the

    island’s soils, St. Croix is not a volcanic island.

    These volcanic rocks were left by

    undersea volcanoes many years ago and were just part of the marine sediments that make

    up most of the island’s soils. There are at least 8 major ecosystem types

    rep-resented on St. Croix, from an area known locally as the “rainforest,”

    really a subtropical moist forest, to mangrove forests, to beaches,

    to savannah, to thorny scrubland. The type of

    ecosystem found on the island depends primarily on the amount of rainfall. Although St. Croix is only 28 miles long, the amount of rainfall varies greatly. The northwestern corner of the island has the greatest amount of rainfall, approximately 110-120 cm (45-55in.) of rain each year. This area is evergreen, and dominated by large tropical trees including kapok, mahogany, saman, sandbox, West Indian almond, painkiller tree, and coconut palm. Bromeliads drip from the trunks and branches of many trees. Termites nest in the crooks of trees large and small. Creque Dam Road, Mahogany Road, Caledonia Valley, and Cane Bay are all part of the subtropical moist forest ecosystem.

    Deciduous forest can be found in the dryer, eastern portion of the island near Cramer Park and Teague Bay. Here rainfall is in the range of 80-110 cm (30-45 in.) yearly. This type of forest is dominated by turpentine trees, tan-tan, prickly pear, Ginger Thomas (also called yellow cedar), tamarind, manjack, and pink cedar. This type of ecosystem is shaped by periodic fires as well as amount of rainfall. The east, central, and southwestern parts

    of St. Croix are shaped by fire and by grazing animals that

    prevent the area from developing into deciduous forest. Instead, these areas develop into thorny woodlands. The yearly rainfall in these areas is 60-90 cm (25-35 in.). Here you will find acacia (locally called casha), tan-tan, f r a n g i p a n i , croton, prickly pear cactus, pipe organ cactus, and many kinds of grasses. Cane Garden, Cotton Garden, and Buck Island are examples of this kind of eco-system.

    Thorny woodland degenerates into thorny scrubland in isolated patches when the rainfall lightens to 40-80 cm (15-30 in.) yearly, especially near the ocean, where salt spray impacts the vegetation. Crotons, acacia, Turk’s cap cactus, heliotrope, and wild sage grow here. Thorny woodland can be seen at Isaac Bay and East Point. Mangrove forests are found where the land meets the sea, especially at Salt River, La Vallee, Great Pond, Southgate, West End, and other lagoons and salt ponds around the island. Red mangroves grow right

    in the water, with black mangroves landward of the red mangroves, and white mangroves on dry land. Mangroves help hold the soil and provide habitat for countless species, from mussels to commercially-important

    fishes. Beaches can be found all

    around the margins of the island. Vegetation along the flat sand beaches includes coconut, manchineel (don’t touch this tree; it is toxic), Haiti-haiti, West Indian almond, sea grape, painkiller tree, acacia, and Puerto Rican Royal Palm. Many beach plants are adapted to holding water in their leaves and stems, including the sea purselane and beach bean.

    Beach ecosystems are affected by the salt water, salt spray, intense sunlight, and strong winds. Along both the North Side

    Road and the South Shore Road are areas of savannah, grasslands with scattered trees. These areas are dominated by

    guinea grass, with occasional calabash, tamarind, tibet, white manjack, acacia, tan-tan,

    and guava trees. Savannah areas are home to many species of birds, lizards, and insects. Finally,

    there are areas of vegetation on St. Croix that have been planted for their unique qualities. Many introduced species such as bougainvillea and flamboyant trees are colorful additions to our tropical island. Australian pine, hibiscus, African baobab, breadfruit, banana, and India fig all have been introduced to St. Croix, and are planted to brighten many roadsides, residences, and resorts.

    Kestrel (Killy-Killy)

    Mocko Jumbies preserve an African tradition

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    St. Croix’s diverse heritage is preserved not only in landmarks. It is also honored in the rituals of daily life, woven i n t o s t r aw b a s ke t s a n d concocted into spicy “Kallaloo” soup and filling “johnny cakes.” History speaks in Creole languages, in stories and proverbs, in lively quelbe, calypso, and salsa rhythms, and the joyful music that reverberates from our churches.

    Crucian culture is a Creole culture, reflecting African and European traditions, spiced with Latin, American, and even Arabic influences. The legacy of Africa is particularly evident in the cuisine, gestures, traditional healing practices, styling, music, dance, and oral traditions. The European legacy derives primarily from the large number of Scots-Irish who ran the plantations. Since there were few resident Danes, and Danish language and culture was never taught in the schools, the Danish element is not very pronounced except for urban architecture. Crucians are very proud of their cultural heritage and eager to share it with visitors.

    Centerline Road (now Queen Mary Highway), circa 1860

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    carpenters, coopers, wheelwrights, joiners, and blacksmiths. Others worked as domestics, vendors, nurses, washerwomen, sailors, and fishermen. Large numbers of free people of color established themselves and their families in the port towns of Frederiksted and Christiansted. Through continuous acts of d e f i a n ce , r u n n i n g aw ay (maroonage), and incidents of re b e l l i on , Af r i c a n s a l s o bequeathed the fierce spirit of freedom and independence that has characterized the people of St. Croix since the days of slavery. In 1848 a bloodless rebellion by enslaved Africans forced the Danish authorities to proclaim Emancipation.

    Thereafter, sugar production became less profitable, but continued as the island’s economic mainstay until 1966, when the last crop was taken off. Experiments with alternative crops such as citrus, tomatoes, coconuts, and agave proved unsuccessful. Today, cattle raising, which began replacing sugar on many estates in the nineteenth century, is the primary agricultural activity. St. Croix is famous for its red Senepol cattle, a hardy breed which can be seen grazing in the northside hills and valleys, and along the south shore between the oil refinery and Great Pond.

    Industry and tourism have dominated the economy since the 1960s. One of the the largest oil refineries in the Western Hemisphere is located in the south central part of the island. Big and small tourism resorts are clustered along the scenic north coast.

    Nimyam. Just the sound of this local word for food makes your mouth water. Recipes and culinary traditions from Africa, Puerto Rico and other Caribbean islands contribute to our local menus. Kallaloo is a thick soup dish that can include balls of fungi (cornmeal), conch, crabs, fish, hambone and okra in a base made with the kallaloo b u s h . Jo h n ny c a k e s a r e unleavened fried or baked bread made of white flour. Souse is a stew made from pig’s head, tail and feet. Goatwater is a soup

    made from goathead. Stew conch is a tasty way to prepare this popular gastropod.

    Pigeon peas and rice (or arroz con gandules) is a universal staple side dish. When you order provisions, you will most likely get yams, pumpkin, plantains, or arrowroot. Fillings for pate, a fried turnover, can include salt

    fish, beef, or vegetarian. Wash it all down with some refreshing maubi, a frothy drink made from the bark of the carob tree, ginger root, yeast and herbs. Or try one of the many bush teas, which not o n l y t a s t e g o o d , b u t a r e considered natural remedies for everything from insomnia to asthma attacks.

    Immig r ants f rom Puerto Rico have brought us lechón, or pork, and arroz con pollo, rice with chicken. Trinidadians have introduced roti, a spicy curry wrap. And don’t forget to try some locally made hot sauce!

    Tropical fruits we delight in are often found at roadside stands and local markets. Familiar to every cereal eater, here the banana is turned into fritters, bread, puddings, and pies. The Indonesian Carambola, or “star fruit,” is very often a garnish for drinks or salads. Mango, papaya, passion fruit, soursop, coconut and tamarind are turned into delicious drinks, preserves, chutneys and candies. If your sweet tooth comes combined with a thirst, try some guapa, sugar cane juice, at Smithens Market stand on Queen Mary Highway.

    Fresh fish, conch, and lobster can be purchased at the Frederiksted or Ville LaReinefish markets. Choices of fish may include yellowtail snapper, grouper, tuna, wahoo, mahi-mahi, kingfish, or pot f i sh , depending on seasonal availability.

    There are a n u m b e r o f r e s t a u r a n t s throughout St.

    Croix that serve local island cuisine, and some of the hotels offer a weekly West Indian buffet. For a sampling of local fruits and vegetables you can go to the marketplaces in Frederiksted, Christiansted and La Reine early on a Saturday morning or look for vendor stands and trucks along the Trail.

    If you’re lucky, during your visit there may be a scheduled quadrille dance, a performance of the St. Croix Heritage Dancers in their bright madras, or an opportunity to hear one of St. Croix’s lively scratch bands such as Blinky and the Road-masters, Bully and the Kafooners, Stanley and the Ten Sleepless Knights, or Jamesy Brewster and his band. Tradition bearer and author Richard Schrader, in his book “Maufe, Quelbe, and t’ing” says when Jamesy performs, “trees shake their branches and grass bends down low.” You can find Schrader’s delightful island stories in local bookstores and shops.

    The quadrille, introduced through either the French islands or through St. Croix’s English and Irish planters and managers, was originally meant for four couples in a square. For generations, St. Gerard’s Hall in Frederiksted has had its floor filled with promenading partners led by a caller and live music on stage. Dances are also occasionally held at the Botanical Garden and at Harbour Night in Frederiksted.

    Quelbe music, also called scratch or fungi, consists of a ukulele banjo, a short-necked, four-string banjo; the conga drum, played with a mallet or stick; the squash, a gourd with serrated sides scratched with a comb or wire-pronged stick; and the steel, a triangle played with a metal rod. Other instruments sometimes playing the lead include guitar, bass, saxaphone, or flute. The bass line often comes from the tailpipe, created from a length of exhaust pipe after cars came to the island. Christmas is the time of year when quelbe is heard frequently - at parades, parties, and on the radio.

    Other musical expressions you are likely to encounter,

    Woodson H.S. Cultural Ambassadors

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    CREDITSWriters: George Tyson, Nancy Buckingham, William Cissel

    Design and Production: Michael Baron for Caribbean Design GroupPhotography: Diane Butler, Fritz Henle, Tina Henle, Carol Lee,

    Richard “Keba” Petrus, Michael BaronArchival Photos & Prints:

    St. Croix Landmarks Society Library and ArchivesArtists: Betsy Campen, Maria Henle, Jeri Hillis, Sally Hoyler, Toni LanceTechnical Support: Jim Bierowski, Sondra Catts, Richard Schrader, EmyThomas, Nina York, V.I. Children’s Seals, Puerto Rican Cuatro Project

    Printing: XXXXBrochure production made possible by: American Express Company,

    Virgin Islands Auto Rental Association, HertzThe St. Croix Heritage Trail is a joint project of the St. Croix Landmarks

    Society and the Virgin Islands Department of Tourism.Project support comes from the Virgin Islands Government, American Express Company, Hotel Caravelle, EmCom, HOVENSA, Virgin Islands

    Auto Rental Association, V.I. Anti-Litter and Beautification Commission (St. Croix District), Gallows Bay Hardware, and Hertz.

    whether it be on a stage, on a parade route, or driving past local restaurants, bars and dance halls, include cariso, with its its message wrapped in song; calypso, whose lyrics are satiric; and soka, Jamaican-based reggae. The L a t i n s o u n d s o f s a l s a , merengue and bachata are heard from a few local groups such as Liquid Sounds Brass and Mo’ Tempo. Puer to Ricans have introduced the cuatro to the Virgin Islands. This guitar-family instrument has twelve strings and an ornate shape with violin-type curves. The dance-drumming tradition known as bamboula is being taught to youngsters in hopes of carrying on the link with African music and dance.

    The Caribbean D a n c e C o m p a n y , established in 1977, is a professional touring company carrying Virgin I s l a n d s t a l e n t throughout Europe, Canada and the U.S. Its D a n c e S c h o o l i n Christiansted trains yo u n g s t e r s f ro m kindergarten up. The C o m p a n y , i n i t s tradition of keeping local musical idioms alive, generally has two local performances a year.

    During Crucian Christmas, Three King’s Day, and even St. Patrick’s Day, parades carry on the ancient tradition of masquerading, w h e r e m e n a n d women dress up in assorted costumes and move about town with m u s i c a l a c c o m p a n i m e n t . Some of the characters at these “tramps” included queens, clowns, Zulus, Indians, bulls, devils, pirates, and Mother Hubbard. At today’s carnivals and parades you are more likely to see very elaborate and colorful costumes with sequins, feathers, and much more exposed flesh than in the olden-day tramps. Troupes of stilt-walking mocko jumbies, with their veiled mysterious faces, perform amazing jumps and turns to delighted on-lookers.

    tenuous co-existence gave way to several years of internecine conflict, from which the French emerged victorious in 1650. The French colony, based on the cultivation of tobacco, indigo, cotton and sugar, lasted until 1696, when the entire population was evacuated to modern day Haiti.

    France maintained title to St. Croix from 1696 to 1733, but made no effort to occupy it. During this period, the tropical wilderness reclaimed the island, which was periodically

    visited by pirates, woodcutters and indebted poor whites fleeing from neighboring colonies. In 1733, Denmark bought St. Croix from France. The Danes, who wanted a plantation colony to complement their emerging free port at nearby St. Thomas, proceeded to subdivide the island into some 400 estates, each approximately 150 acres in size. These tracts were sold off to aspiring planters from Denmark and the neighboring Caribbean islands. The resultant plantation system structured Crucian life and landscape until the early 1960s.

    Economic opportunity and Denmark’s reputation for

    religious tolerance attracted a wide assortment of ethnic migrants. Within a few decades, small

    groups of Dutch, Irish, Scots, English, and Sephardic Jews had settled alongside the Danes in the towns and

    countryside. With them came thousands of enslaved laborers forcibly imported from Africa and the surrounding Caribbean islands. Later, immigrants from Puerto Rico and the Lesser Antilles joined the mix and

    contributed to the present culture.

    The settlers cleared and cultivated the land using a slave-based plantation agricultural system geared to export markets. During the eighteenth century commerce was based on the export of sugar and cotton and the importation of foodstuffs and plantation supplies from Europe and North America. Cotton, essentially a poor man’s crop, was grown predominantly on the dry East End of the island. “King Sugar” was har vested everywhere - even at the tops of the highest mountains. It particularly thr ived on the fer t i l e , well-watered soil of the flat central plain along the south coast. By 1800, St. Croix boasted over 200 sugar plantations and had become the fourth largest producer in the Caribbean. As sugar expanded, cotton declined. By 1810 its cultivation had ceased. African labor and agricultural traditions made this system possible. Enslaved Africans cleared the dense tropical forest, cultivated the soil and built the sugar mills, factories, greathouses, and villages that everywhere dotted the landscape. They planted, tended, harvested, and processed the export crops, as well as manned the carts and boats that transported them to market. Resourceful African men and women also supplied foodstuffs for the local market from their small provision grounds. African contributions were not limited to

    PREHISTORY The earliest humans on St. Croix were here some 4,500 years ago. The only trace found so far of these stone users is the remains of a temporary fishing camp. These people are believed to have migrated from the Yucatan peninsula to the Greater Antilles and then across St. Croix and down the island

    chain. Later, by 1A.D. pottery-making

    people had come up from South America. The first of these waves of people were

    later known as the Igneri (Ancient People). They are known as the Pre-Taino peoples to archæologists today. lThe Taino, often called Arawak, culture blossomed around 1200 A.D. St. Croix was on the

    eastern boundary of the Taino. By the time of Columbus’ voyages the people on St. Croix were fighting with the most recent wave from the south, the Carib or Kalina peoples.

    Physical evidence shows that the Salt River site in particular was a major religious and cultural

    center. The only Taino ceremonial ball court found in the Lesser Antilles was discovered there in 1923.

    On November 14, 1493, during his second voyage of exploration to the New World, Columbus sighted the island which the Caribs called Cibuquiera (“the stony land”) and which he named Santa Cruz (“Holy Cross”) - present-day St. Croix. At Salt River, a skirmish between Spaniards and Caribs resulted in a fatality on both sides. This hostile encounter constituted the first documented Native American resistance to European encroachment. Columbus named the scene of the encounter Cabo de las Flechas, or “Cape of the Arrows.” Unwavering Carib resistance to enslavement, as well as their practice of ritual cannibalism, served as the pretext for their extermination by the Spanish beginning in 1512. In the face of military raids from Puerto Rico, the Caribs had permanently abandoned St. Croix by 1590.

    HISTORY Although Columbus claimed St. Croix for Spain in 1493, the Spanish made no attempt to colonize the island. The first European settlers, a quarrelsome mixture of English, French and Dutch adventurers, took up residence in the 1630s. Their

    Cultural life

    Basket weaving, construction of metal or clay coal pots, mahogany furniture making, chair caning and needlework are among the craft traditions carried on to this day on St. Croix.

    The calabash gourd, or “gobi”, is made into bowls, utensils, purses and musical instruments. The calabash and coconut are both made into bird feeders. Several other local crafts have evolved from the emergence of the tourism trade such as mocko jumbie dolls, palm frond

    hats and birds, shell crafts and adornments, and articles of clothing made from madras.

    A f l o u r i s h i n g f i n e a r t community is evident from the many galleries and studios throughout St. Croix. In the w i n t e r t h e re a re m a ny non-profit organization

    fundraisers which feature works by these gifted artists. “St. Croix This Week” lists places to find local art.

    Dance, Music,& Masquerade

    ExploringCulture

    Maroon Freedom Fighter

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    While English is the official language of St. Croix, you will frequently hear Spanish and West Indian Creoles spoken. The local Creole, called Crucian, grew out of the social interaction of enslaved Africans and European planters. It is English-based because that language, rather than Danish, predominated among the Europeans. Also, English rather than Danish was taught in the schools before and after Emancipation. Crucian’s African influence is most obvious in its grammar, syntax, and use in oration, story-telling, and proverbs. The following local sayings give a sampling of the distinctive flavor of Crucian.

    Cy-ple’s Scratch Band, 1950

    African Tulip Tree

    NATURAL SITES AND PROTECTED AREASSunday Market Square, Christiansted, 1912

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    St. Croix possesses many ecological treasures, several of which are being preserved for their value as natural areas and wildlife habitat.

    Sandy Point National Wildlife Refuge, at the southwest corner of the island, was established primarily to protect the March - June nesting grounds of endangered leatherback turtles. Caledonia Gut, Annaly Bay, Wills Bay, and Creque Dam Road offer interesting hiking spots in the lush northwest corner of St. Croix. Salt River Bay National Historical Park and Ecological Preserve, in addition to protecting a significant historical area, is the crown jewel of natural areas on St. Croix. The mangrove “forests” of this estuary were damaged extensively by Hurricane Hugo

    and are being replanted by volunteers of the V.I. ReLeaf pro jec t o f the S t . Croix Environmental Association (SEA).

    In addition to being a well interpreted example of a former working sugar plantation, The Nature Conservancy’s Estate Little Princess near Christiansted is a nature preserve featuring trails and marked vegetation. Buck Island National Monument has an underwater snorkel trail for viewing fish, rays, corals, and an impressive

    garden of other sea life. The island itself contains a lovely beach with picnic facilities and a hiking trail which climbs to the top for some superb views back to St. Croix. Green Cay National Wildlife Refuge, established to protect the St. Croix ground

    lizard, is closed to the public above mean high tide. Jack’s and Isaac’s Bays, on the island’s far East End, beckon dedicated hikers with a desire to see a remote beach. The 301-acre area, owned and managed by The Nature

    Conservancy as a nature preserve, protects flora and fauna from the ridge line to the coral reef.

    St. Croix’s many saltponds are rich in resident and migratory birdlife. The mangroves surrounding the ponds are critical nursery habitat for juvenile fish. Kayakers find smooth paddling when the ponds are full, and fishermen can be seen harvesting crabs from the mudflats. Following the Heritage Trail, you

    will see Great Pond on the south shore and Southgate Pond out East. Elsewhere you will find West End Salt Pond near Sandy Point; Billy French Ponds near the oil refinery, and Altona Lagoon near Gallows

    Bay (Christiansted).

    Great Pond, South Shore

    Language & Sayings BIRDLIFE AND LORE

    For further information on birdwatching areas, contact

    The St. Croix Environmental Association at 340-773-1989.

    The most commonly seen mammal along the trail is the mongoose, introduced in 1884 to kill rats that were destroying sugar cane. They run in leaps across the road and seem to have better luck making it to the other side than do squirrels. They may be cute, but they eat ground-nesting birds and lizards, and they destroy turtle eggs. What’s the plural of mongoose? (Answer: “mongoose dem.”) White-tailed

    deer, introduced by planters in the 1770s for sport, find cover island-wide in woodland and scrub and can sometimes be seen foraging in pastureland in the evenings.

    Three endangered sea turtles nest on St. Croix. The leatherback can be over six feet long and over 500 kilograms. March to June is the nesting season; hatchlings emerge from May through August. The hawksbill, with its beautiful shell and beak-like jaw, often shares nesting beaches with the green turtle, named for the color of its body fat. Snorkelers occasionally spot turtles, particularly along the underwater trail at Buck Island.

    Iguana, whose bones have been found in local ki tchen middens, were probably very common up until mongooses were introduced. Most reported sightings of these scaly critters have been on the East End and along Mahogany Road out west. A delightful t ime can be spent

    watching the threatening posture of a territorial tree lizard or anole as he inflates his dewlaps while doing mini-push-ups. The light-colored woodslave, a gecko thought to have been a stowaway on slave ships from Africa, is often seen at night stalking insects attracted to outside lights.

    Kallaloo crabs, one type of land crab sometimes seen dangling from strings at roadside fish stands, can be found crawling around their mud holes in stands of red mangroves. At night, after a heavy rain, you might see residents collecting them with the aid of flashlights for use in kallaloo soup. The most cumbersome of land

    crabs, the purple-clawed hermit crab, or soldier crab, can be found scrambling around the forest floor or coastal thickets in its shell home. We also have fiddler crabs, whose one enlarged claw is waved constantly as if to say “hello.” Look for the giant toad or crapaud, brought to St. Croix in the 1930s to control cane insects, an unsuccessful experiment.

    Iguana

    Mongoose

    Anole

    White-Tailed Deer

    Black Witch = Smooth-billed Ani

    Cattle Gaulin’ = Cattle Egret

    Pilikin Bird = Pelican

    Killy-Killy = Kestrel

    Colibri, Docta Bird = Hummingbird

    Sugarbird, Yellowbreast = Bananaquit

    White Head = White Crowned Pigeon

    Mani-Coo, Dumb Bird =Mangrove Cuckoo

    Tortola Bird =Zenaida Dove

    Grass Sparrow =Black-faced Grassquit

    Thrushee =Pearly-Eyed Thrasher

    Half Bird =Laughing Gull

    Chinchary =Gray Kingbird

    Gray Gaulin’ =Great Blue Heron

    White Gaulin’ = Snowy Egret

    Weather Bird,Man-o-War Bird =

    MagnificentFrigatebird

    Pelican (Pilikin Bird)

    Frigatebird (Man-o-War Bird)Great Blue Heron (Gray Gaulin’)

    Cattle Egret (Cattle Gaulin’)

    Bananaquit(Sugarbird)

    Chicken Hawk =Red-Tailed Hawk

    St. Croix boasts over 100 bird species. The best birding can be found at the salt ponds listed below. But as you traverse the Trail, have your navigator (not your driver!) be on the lookout for white-crowned pigeons on telephone lines, kestrels tending nests at the top of sugar mills, smooth-billed anis congregating in the bushes and our territorial bird, the bananaquit (sugarbird) raising a ruckus just about anywhere.

    Knowing our colorful local names enriches your birding experience:

    Antillean-Crested Hummingbird

    ARTS AND CRAFTS

    Three Kings’ Day Parade................................ early January

    Agricultural Fair............................................ February

    Caribbean Dance Company Performances.... February

    June

    St. Patrick’s Day Parade ................................. March

    Starving Artists Days (Whim) ....................... March

    August

    November

    Mango Melee (Botanical Gardens)................. late June

    Emancipation Day......................................... July 3

    Hispanic Heritage Celebration ...................... Sept - Oct

    Liberty Day Celebration (Grove Place) .......... November 1

    Crucian Christmas Festival ........................... December

    Christmas Spoken Here (Botanical Garden).. December

    Harbour Nights in Frederiksted .................... Wednesday nights

    Christiansted Jump-Up Nights...................... throughout the year

    Randall “Doc” James Racetrack ..................... most Sundays

    “Ruins at Little Princess” Fritz Henle, 1948

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    “Buddhoe”Freedom Fighter John Gottleib

    A Leader of the 1878Frederiksted Fireburn

    “Queen Mary”

    Christiansted Harbor, circa 1790

    Cane Workers, circa 1890

    Island Food

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    You can find Crucian culture all around you. Check the local newspapers and travel literature for announcements of cultural activities and performances. Drop into local restaurants and nightspots. The best way to sample local food, music, dance and performance is to attend the following cultural events:

    Topography & Vegetation

    Talented teens playing pan

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    Mexican Creeper

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    Passion Fruit

    Flamboyant

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    Ginger Thomas

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    Turk’s Head Cactus

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    Veronica Gordon, the calabash lady…

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    …and her calabash bowls and bags.

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    No fo’ want o’ tongue mek cattle can’ talk..

    God Almighty never shut He eye.

    Yoh don’ smell goat dung till you muss it up.

    Gold teet don’ suit hog mout.

    De Devil tempt bu he don force.

    De longest prayer got an Amen.

    If you mash ants, you will find ants’ guts.

    Monkey noh wha tree toh clime pon.

    Donkey got no business in a hos gyallup.

    God live ah town, he live ah country.

    Whe yoh glass deh foh meh bottle deh.

    When guinea bird wing bruk, he seekthe company of hens.

    Lunch is Served

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    Johnny cakes cookin’

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    Roti, pate, fritters, and salt fish cakes

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    Hot sauces, jams, chutneys, pies, tarts, spice cake, etc.

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    Try it, you’ll like it

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    Scratch Band

    The Cuatro

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