Taylored Trips – Places of Interest – Tulbagh

Tulbagh, besides being the epicentre of the devastating earth quake of 29 September 1969, was and is home to a few celebrities. Alfred Maitland Taylor, my grandfather, was Post Master there, Ginger Baker, legendary drummer for the rock band Cream lived there until recently and, staying with the music theme, Albert Frost and his family as well as his mother Maggie and step-father Rob Nagel of the Blues Broers all currently live there.

The musical family have an annual Boxing Day Blues Bash held in a beautiful setting at Saronsberg Cellars. This bash is in its 5th year and it is very much a family affair. The Lombard’s, Laubscher’s, Nagel’s and Auld’s are all related and Albert Frost’s daughter even sang us a song.

Rob Nagel

Saronsberg Cellar

Albert Frost

The earth quake of 1969 destroyed many buildings and Church street, which runs parallel to the Main Road, was hit the hardest. Over time the historic buildings in the street were all rebuilt to their former glory and they have all been proclaimed National Monuments making this street a huge tourist attraction. These buildings now house eateries, museums, art galleries and accommodation.

Church Street, Tulbagh

In July they close this street to cars and turn it into a bazaar when they have their Xmas in July party. It is a well-attended event and the street is packed with happy people as they move up and down the street to the various stalls, shops and restaurants. There is also a shuttle to take you to various wine cellars.

This year it is on 24 and 25 June. Do not miss it! I’ll see you there.

Xmas in July - Tulbagh

Xmas in July - Tulbagh

The magnificent church at the southern end of the street however, suffered only minor damage from the 1969 earth quake because it is much older than the other buildings and was built without foundations, as was the practice in those days, so it apparently was able to float rather than be torn apart with the movement of the earth. The church was established in 1743 and took something like five years to build. Most of the other buildings were built in the 1800’s.

Oude Kerk - Tulbagh

The church was enlarged in 1795, as depicted on the gable above the entrance and it is now a museum. This building is the oldest church building in the Cape still standing more or less in its original form.

The inside (actually the outside too) is beautifully restored and there are some amazing antiques, specifically the old nickelodeon and the pulpit, which is thought to be, possibly, the original one.

Oude Kerk - Tulbagh

Nickelodeon or is it a melodeon or is it a Symphonion?

Tulbagh, supposedly the fourth oldest town in South Africa (after Cape Town, Stellenbosch and Swellendam), according to one source, but another source says Genadendal, 1738, is the third oldest town, also have two other very quaint little churches to boast with. The top picture below is further back in town and the bottom one is set in vineyards outside of town on the way to Saronsberg Cellars.

Tulbagh churches

Tulbagh churches

There is another point of interest that I must mention about Tulbagh and that is the Saronsberg Theatre. Right in the Main Road, this old Victorian building plays host to all kinds of musical and theatrical shows.

Saronsberg Theatre - Tulbagh

Saronsberg Theatre - Tulbagh

Wild Lettuce at Saronsberg Theatre

The Witzenberger Band at Saronsberg Theatre

The Witzenberg mountains lie to the east of the town and create a stunning backdrop to almost any photo taken in the area.

So next time you’re cruising down the R46, don’t just drive past the turn-off, do yourself a favour and turn in and have a look around. You might just decide to stay a while.

Until next time, “Keep on Tripping!”