Vanlife in Morocco: A Short Guide  (Updated April 13, 2016 after a 3­month visit) 

As you know, we like to share what we know about living in a van,                             so we decided to write a short guide on vanlife in Morocco after our                           trip. We think that our experience could be useful to anyone who’s                       planning on visiting in a van or RV. 

Many things were surprisingly different than we’d expected. Check                 out our discoveries about vanlife in Morocco: 

DRIVING 

Our last experience with this kind of crazy driving was inIstanbul.                       We didn’t drive around the city when we were there so much, but                         the few times we did was enough. Vanlife in Morocco driving is                       pretty much the same: absolute chaos in cities and craziness on                     country roads. 

Even if I drive slowly and not long distances, I’m always tired after                         every jaunt. You know why? My eyes are constantly, 200%, looking                     

for any kind of dangerous situation around the van: people crossing                     the road everywhere; taxi drivers passing you from the right; cars                     that don’t use any kind of signal except in fun; carts, donkeys, herds                         of sheep and camels taking a stroll. 

 

That’s pretty much what you can find on the roads here, and it                         doesn’t matter if you’re driving in the countryside or in a town.                       These kinds of situations are pretty different from Europe. 

Not only that: Moroccans seem to be pretty busy all day long and                         they don’t like to wait – so don’t be angry if they honk at you. A lot.                                 And don’t stop. It’s mainly to let you know they are riding your ass,                           in case you hadn’t noticed. 

ROADS 

The roads are pretty much safe and well paved, if they aren’t dirt                         side roads. Some of them have brand new asphalt and some                     others…don’t. Most of the paved roads have the asphalt in the                     middle of the road, the size of a single lane.  

If there’s oncoming traffic, you both go halfsies into the dirt sides                       (usually plenty of room). 

For super safe travels, you can get onto the main highway that                       pretty much goes from the north to the south of the country and                         isn’t expensive (as far as tolls) for vanlife in Morocco. 

 

All of theother roads are in good condition (the yellow ones on the                           maps) and if you want to try some adventure, you can check out the                           side roads (white lines on the map). The side roads will definitely                       give you a real African driving experience­ and if your van is 4×4, so                           much the better. 

Update: The last leg of our journey was a lot smoother, as far as                           driving. Inland, the roads seemed much better (even if they were                     dirt) and the main highway was easy­peasy.  

Another thing we noticed: there are hardly any side roads that                     aren’t private. You can drive for ages before finding a public road to                         pull off into. 

GAS 

There are plenty of gas stations near cities, towns and even small villages. As you probably know, the diesel prices for vanlife in Morocco are pretty low, so enjoy getting a full tank when you arrive. 

Right now, the price is around 7.50 Dirham per liter (0.70 Euros)                       and it’s a good quality one. 

If you plan to take your van far into the Western Sahara, keep in                           mind to put some extra tanks in your van as gas stations are much                           more rare on the road there. We doubt you’d like to be stuck in the                             middle of the desert! 

DRIVING RULES 

 

Be careful: for vanlife in Morocco, many roads are under control of                       police with radar. Be aware of all the signals on the road and be sure                             you drive within speeds limits. 

There’s usually a roadblock before entering in major towns, but                   since they like tourists, the police shouldn’t bother you.  

Also in big cities like Casablanca, look around and stop at signs­ or                         you can get a ticket up to 700 Dirhams, which almost happened to                         us. 

Driving under the influence of alcohol is almost impossible, because                   it’s not easy to get booze, but anyways, always safe driving: no                       drugs, no alcohol. We’ve heard that when you get caught for traffic                       violations, they take it seriously. And that seriously means                 something. 

Note: If you’re ticketed in Morocco, the fine is expected to be paid immediately. If you can’t pay it, your license can be confiscated legally until payment is made. 

PARKING 

 

Here’s the deal: we’re pretty used to always finding a nice place for                         free parking and staying overnight in Europe, but it’s a bit different                       for vanlife in Morocco.  

There is no free parking. Other people have told us that 3­4 years                         ago the situation was really different and you were able to park                       your van anywhere. 

The King has recently changed some laws and put a lot of signs up,                           around the seaside, especially. The signs have a clear picture of an                       RV with a line through it. 

In most of the places you can find a nice parking area for the day.                             But before leaving your van parked there, remember to pay                   something to the guy with a bright yellow vest. He’s the ‘guardian’­                       and that’s how it works here.  

It depends on the location, but the prices range from 5 to 10                         Dirhams for the day and for the night parking up to 30­40. So be                           prepared with a big bag full of coins, you’ll need them. 

Near touristic locations, like Essauira, Kenitra and Airah you’ll see                   an agglomerate of big campervans to see where it’s ok to park.                       These parking lots have a guard at night also, so your van will be in                             good hands. It’s better not to take a risk for couple of coins. 

We’ve also had free parking overnight in some places, though it’s                     difficult to find. It’s easier if the spot is not right at the beach.  

More than several times at sunset, a couple of police officers have                       stopped by to tell us that we have to move (mostly for our safety) at                             any of the beach spots.  

Believe us, it’s such a pain in the patootie to pack up, drive randomly                           or to the ‘closest camping’ and then unpack. 

Update: We had several interesting experiences with parking the                 last month of our stay. In one field, we asked a local farmer if we                             could park and they insisted on inviting us in to share dinner. None                         of us could communicate with each other, but it was a fantastic                       moment. 

In Marrakech, finding parking is a hassle. We paid for one parking                       space at first, only to find out a.) it wasn’t parking and b.) it wasn’t                             his. A little police help got our money back. 

Another not­so­nice parking time: after the crazy of Marrakech, we                   just wanted quiet. We found a small village and parked. Within a                       short time, a man approached and asked us to leave.  

The ‘women couldn’t leave their houses’ and ‘why can’t you go to                       Marrakech?’ That really left a bad taste in our mouths, since we                       weren’t obtrusive in the least. Just being foreign was enough. 

CAMPING AT CAMPSITES 

We’re secretly convinced that the police and ‘beach guardians’ are                   working hand­in­hand with cousins who just so happen to own a                     camping in the next village over. 

We’ve spent a few nights at campsites, just once by choice. Again,                       really don’t get your expectations up or even try to compare to what                         you’re used to. 

 

Either a nasty­looking wire fence or bricks typically ring the                   campsites. Again, for ‘protection.’ The parking slots are like a dirt                     parking lot. 

Many sites don’t have toilets, if they do, they’re Turkish style. Some                       have showers, sinks for doing the washing up, laundry and water to                       load up into your van. (The showers, so far, have only thought                       briefly about being warm.)  

We paid 85 Dirhams in the off­season outside of Targhazout; and for                       just parking overnight we’ve paid 30­40 Dirhams at campsites. 

The strangest part of the campsites is that phenomenon of                   long­term campers (RVs with the patios, etc.) who seem happy                   enough in a dirt parking lot for weeks or months. 

Update: We rarely use campsites, but this camping guide in                   Morocco could be useful for those of you that do. 

KITCHEN GAS 

You’ll see gas bottles everywhere, from small villages to big cities.                     For vanlife in Morocco, pretty much everything is run by gas, so for                         your van kitchen, it’s super easy and inexpensive to get a new one. 

 

 

We have a regular ‘Campigaz’ bottle 3kg. We didn’t want to give up                         our empty one and decided to just buy a local one that has the same                             size and same attachment. It cost only 60 Dirhams, but we did have                         to enlist help from someone to open it. 

The bottles have a plastic middle you need to push a knife into and                           then use it to unscrew from the bottle. If you’re in doubt, ask a local.                             They might laugh at you, but better safe than sorry. 

MONEY 

 

Don’t count on being able to charge as you travel. Very, very few                         places accept cards. Perhaps 5%. You need cash for gas, food and                       anything you can’t buy in one of the big chain supermarkets. ATMs                       are handy, when they work. But they don’t always. 

We have a Mastercard debit card, and we’ve had some trouble                     getting money from ATMs. We’ve been told everything from:                 ‘sometimes all Mastercard servers are down, countrywide,’ to ‘you                 need to keep the language in Arabic/French, not English.’  

We’ve had our card spat back out, got the dreaded ‘not enough                       funds’ message and have done the whole panicked drive in search of                       working ATMs. 

If you have any problems with your card or getting cash, going                       inside the bank and asking for help has worked for us. People have                         been more than friendly and eager to help, which takes the sting out                         of not being able to get your money. 

Update:Don’t try to make sense of why or why not an ATM doesn’t                           work. We had one work the first time, but not the second; one that                           only accepted our card after spitting it out 3 times; and one that we                           put back into the machine for ten minutes, regularly (a little                     frustrated), that finally went through.  

Other people had no problems at all. 

SHOPPING 

In Morocco, they have two big supermarkets: Carrefour and                 Marjane. We’ve tried both and can say that are both fairly expensive.                       Maybe we’re just used to the cheap discounts in Europe, but here                       the prices are high.  

For example: a local bread (the round one) at the supermarket is                       3.50 Dirhams, when at the local shop it’s usually 1. Many of the                         imported products are overpriced, and when you leave with a small                     bag and are 30 Euros lighter…mmm…better to buy local. 

You can find dozens of small shops all around villages/towns/cities                   that sell pretty much everything: from cigarettes to Coca­Cola, chips                   and chocolate bars. 

 

The absolute best places for shopping are at the ‘souks,’ or weekly                       markets. The day of the week they’re held depends on each specific                       place, so ask around.  

You can get loads of fresh produce, handicrafts and find a lot of                         surprises for half the cost you’d find in traditional shops. They’re                     also a lively and integral part of Moroccan culture. 

In the local markets you can find a butcher, fresh fish, veggies and so                           on. Sometimes it’s even cheaper to just eat out. Of course not in the                           fancy tourist restaurants, but where locals go. 

In Casablanca, a friend of ours brought us to the harbor and we                         spent 20 Dirhams each for: a nice plate of fresh fried fish, an omelet                           with fresh shrimp, soft bread and tea. And it was delicious.  

We also recommend trying a ‘tajine,’ which is a slow cooked roast                       of meat, potatoes and veg in Moroccan spices. Double yum. 

WATER 

It’s not very common here to find water fountains or such around.                       We’ve found a couple, but it was more than lucky. Usually when we                         needed to fill our 70­liter tank and the solar shower, we stop by a                           gas station and gently ask if we can get some water. We typically tip                           10­20 Dirhams for the service. 

 

We only use this water for cooking and cleaning, not for drinking.                       It’s always better to buy some bottled water at the local shop, a                         5­liter jug costs you 1 euro. And you’ll be needing a surprising                       amount of water, more than usual, due to the dry heat and the sand.                           Lots of fine­grained, dusty sand. Everywhere. 

Update: In the Atlas mountains, you can find a lot of fresh water from the runoff with small road side stations to fill up, which is perfect for vanlife in Morocco. We found that many small towns also had public water stations on their outskirts (don’t let the sight of donkey drivers put you off, the water’s fine). 

GARBAGE 

In our first few days here, we noticed what many visitors to                       Morocco notice: vast heaps of garbage. Countryside, city side, beach.                   Just tons, everywhere. 

We’ve realized now that a large part of the problem is the where of                           the thing: it’s pretty tough to find a trash bin, no matter where you                           are.  

But what, with all of the water you’ll be drinking and the heat to                           spoil anything organic in hours rather than days, you’ll need to get                       rid of it. 

 

 

Our only solution is carting it around with us until we find that holy                           Grail: a trash bin to throw it in. Some can be found on the outskirts                             of towns and some haphazardly along streets. It’s kind of a                     bin­Bingo, but they can be found. 

EMERGENCY CARE 

 

We had a bout of minor food poisoning that led to a superbly painful                           skin infection, and had to find a hospital. The hospital in Belfa was                         

closed, but we were directed to the emergency services. We found                     the small lit sign with a door leading up stairs, and two doctors on                           call. 

The waiting room was empty (it was around 8:30 PM) and we were                         taken in, treated and finished in 20 minutes. I have to say: it was one                             of the most pleasant and professional experiences I’ve ever had in                     an ER.  

We went back a day later to make sure everything was as it should                           be, and got some medical supplies. Costs: 150 Dirhams for the visit;                       100 Dirhams for the supplies. 

PETS AND ANIMALS 

There are a lot of street dogs and cats around that are so happy to                             be fed and to be loved, even for a short time. You will see some                             shocking and sad sights of abused animals, just to prepare you.  

If you bring your dog, be sure you have his passport. And if you                           want to adopt one in Morocco (like we did), make sure you have the                           time. 

 

What happened with us:Ziggyjust decided to jump in our van and                         to adopt us. The day after we brought him to a vet to have him                             checked out (very healthy).  

With 1040 Dirhams (around 100 Euros) we got: an injection against                     rabies, an injection for the microchip, pills for stomach worms, an                     anti­parasite wash for his fur, a general check of his condition and a                         nice bath. 

After a month from the first vaccination, we’ll have to go back to a                           vet and do a blood test. After 15 days, they’ll send us the results by                             email.  

With a printed copy of this document, you can get the dog in Europe                           and then do the EU passport. So make sure that if you find your                           special 4 legged friend here, you have at least month and½ ahead to                           take care of the regulations. 

Update: We had some anxiety and Ziggy’s papers ready, but they                     weren’t bothered at the Spanish border.  

In fact, we found it strange that we’d been searched so thoroughly                       going into Morocco and barely leaving, despite its fame for hash                     smuggling. 

SURFING  

 

Morocco is an amazing place if you like to surf in the winter, in                           warm water. All of the coast is full of nice spots for surfing, mainly                           right waves and occasionally left ones. Some of the places we’ve                     

visited are: Kenitra, Essaouira, Sidi Kaoukli, Simand….., other places                 I don’t remember now, and the surf capital of Morocco: Taghazout. 

In each place, there are surfing camps, schools, surf rentals and                     shops. And in some of the more windy places, like Essaouira, it’s                       also good for kite surfing. So put your equipment in the van for                         some fun along the trip. 

Also, if you likefishing, Morocco is a great place to give it a go with                               a lot of different varieties. Your best bet: ask a local for advice on                           bait and lures or get adventurous with deep­sea fishing. 

VISITING THE DESERT 

 

You’ll have more than enough offers of a Sahara tour or a camel tour in the desert. We went with Caravane du Sud in Zagora for both their ‘mini camp’ and the camp at the edge of the Sahara.  

The journey includes: camel or 4 x 4 riding; staying in authentic Berber tents; and a full Moroccan experience with friendly locals. 

BUYING OTHER GOODS 

The great thing about vanlife in Morocco is that before entering, you                       can buy some extra stuff that you can then trade here with locals.                         Sweets, cakes or alcohol. 

A couple of bags of candies or cheap bottles aren’t a bad thing to                           have handy. We also had some childrens toys (small rubber balls)                     that we were able to give away. Trade is common, so bring extras of                           everything to barter with. 

We had men approaching us to ask for shoes; electronics; phones;                     and small children ask for pens (though that may have been the only                         vocabulary they had). 

As smokers, we had problems finding tobacco here. They have                   some, but it’s the same type that they put in cigarettes, not for                         rolling. Anyway, in most of the shops you can find cigarettes, so we                         went for a local brand called Marquise for 20,5 Dirhams a box. 

 

We had men approaching us to ask for shoes; electronics; phones;                     and small children ask for pens (though that may have been the only                         vocabulary they had). 

As smokers, we had problems finding tobacco here. They have                   some, but it’s the same type that they put in cigarettes, not for                         

rolling. Anyway, in most of the shops you can find cigarettes, so we                         went for a local brand called Marquise for 20,5 Dirhams a box. 

About alcohol, you should stock up before entering if you like to                       have your evening wine or beer.  

Marjane shops don’t sell any; Carrefour does seemingly randomly                 (in Essouaria, but not Agadira); and legend has it shops exist selling                       all types of alcohol, carefully hidden behind unmarked doors that                   are pretty dodgy­looking. 

WiFI AND CONNECTIONS TO THE WORLD 

In the main cities and towns you can find a lot of cafés and bars with                               WiFi. A free app for your mobile phone we use to check for local                           WiFi: WiFi map.  

If you needWiFi for work (like us) you can choose between a couple                           of providers. 

We chose the national one: Moroc Telecom, which has the best                     coverage in the country. We bought a card with 12GB for a month                         and a USB stick for 200 Dirhams.  

Our router reads the card perfectly, and if you finish the GB you can                           recharge for another 12GB a month at 100 Dirhams. 

 

So far, the connection has been good, except for a few places that                         were away from any signs of civilization. We didn’t mind. It’s not                       bad from time to time to be offline and immerse yourself in the                         world you’re discovering. 

LANGUAGE 

 

Arabic is the primary language of Morocco, though French comes                   in second. If you have any school French remnant in you, this is the                           time to dust it off and use it. It’ll make things easier for you­ and for                               the locals. They speak French or at least understand it pretty much                       everywhere. 

In some areas in the north and a few villages in the south, you can                             also practice your Spanish. In many of the touristic places, a lot of                         people speak English.  

However, no matter which language you speak, locals will usually                   find a way to communicate with you. Sign language and pantomime                     are nearly universal, after all. 

CULTURE AND TRADITIONS 

We’ll showcase some of our favorite links here, if you want to know                         more about the culture and traditions of Morocco:  

Bewildered in Morocco: Blog 

An American in Morocco: Myths vs. Realities: Article Moroccan Etiquette: Blog Morocco Reddit Travel Feed: Possible Problems Tips for Solo Women Travelers: Short Guide Driving in Morocco: Article Why Morocco: Blog Morocco Essentials: Official Guide Top 10 Scams in Morocco: Blog Post 

 

 

That’s it for our vanlife in Morocco tips and info. We hope it’s been helpful! Have you ever been to Morocco in a van? What was your experience? Have we missed anything? Have any questions about vanlife in Morocco? Just let us know in the comments below! 

Armando, Mel, Ziggy & Mork 

  

Click below to watch our Vanlife Vlogs: Vanlife Vlog Episode 18: Discovering Morocco Part 01 

Vanlife Vlog Episode 19: Discovering Morocco Part 02 

Vanlife Vlog Episode 20: Discovering Morocco Part 03