time & style 2008

C A N A D A ’ S G U I D E T O F I N E T I M E P I E C E S

Concord C1 Tourbillon Gravity � e world’s coolest tourbillon (pg.12)

www.timeandstyle.ca

Time & Style is published by Contempo Media Inc. No part of this publication may be copied or reprinted without the express written consent of the publisher.

Contempo Media Inc.370 Queen’s Quay West, Suite 203Toronto, ON M5V 3J3416-591-0093Volume 1, Issue 1, December 2008

E D I TO R I A L

John McGouran | Publisher

Michael La Fave Editorial and Creative Director

Carol Besler | Watch Editor

Paul Vella | Art Director

Jeremy Freed | Managing Editor

Leo Petaccia | Associate Editor

Brigitte Foisy | Style EditorRoslyn Costanzo | Associate Style EditorTheresa Quick | Associate Style Editor

Alex Hughes | Editorial Intern

Contributing Writers Rod Cleaver

Letters to the editor: [email protected].

A DV E RT I S I N G

John McGouran Sales Director416-258-8538

[email protected]

Paul OlechowskiSenior Account Manager

[email protected]

media inc

As songwriter Guy Clark said, “the only difference between men and boys is the price of their toys.” Quite right; this is as it should be, except that, at some point, price shouldn’t be the only difference. As a man, it’s time to think about adding a sense of style to your toy chest. Take your watch for example. You have no doubt already ditched your ordinary cell phone for a 3G BlackBerry, swapped the canvas knapsack for a Prada briefcase, and the anorak for a proper overcoat. So what’s with the dime-store digital? No matter what you drive, wear or text with, you must know that you will increase your chances of being taken seriously by wearing a great watch.

There is something reassuringly authentic about a great timepiece. Unlike most other luxury products, watches were born of two things: necessity and curiosity. The ancients needed to rotate crops; you need to keep lunch appointments. A timepiece is necessary for the organization of society. That said, the watch has become an important expression of per-sonal style. It can be tastefully subtle (compared with, say, a Lamborghini, which can’t be displayed in either the boardroom or on the basketball court), and yet utterly distinctive, as the watches in this section prove.

Since the invention of the escapement mechanism some 200 years ago, one finicky watchmaker after another has demonstrated his inability to simply leave it at that. There is now a very specific watch for everything from mountain climbing to dealmaking, from diving to dancing. There are hundreds of options to suit every activity known to man, including just kicking back and doing nothing. You’re going to need more than one.

Timepieces have come a long way since the sun dial. We’re launching Time & Style to get you caught up. Within these pages you’ll find trend-setting timepieces, a brief glossary to help you distinguish a GMT from a tourbillon, and even a few favourite picks from the man with the best toy chest of them all, James Bond.

TiCk TALk

Carol Besler, Watch Editor

www.timeandstyle.ca

3 TIME & STYLEQuantum Of Solace © 2008 Danjaq, United Artists, CPII. 007 TM and related James Bond Trademarks © 1962-2008 Danjaq and United Artists. All Rights Reserved. 007 TM and related James Bond Trademarks are trademarks of Danjaq licensed by EON Productions Limited

IN CINEMAS NOVEMBER

JB_OMEGA_AD.indd 1 10/31/08 9:33:51 AM

Time & Style is published by Contempo Media Inc. No part of this publication may be copied or reprinted without the express written consent of the publisher.

Contempo Media Inc.370 Queen’s Quay West, Suite 203Toronto, ON M5V 3J3416-591-0093Volume 1, Issue 1, December 2008

E D I TO R I A L

John McGouran | Publisher

Michael La Fave Editorial and Creative Director

Carol Besler | Watch Editor

Paul Vella | Art Director

Jeremy Freed | Managing Editor

Leo Petaccia | Associate Editor

Brigitte Foisy | Style EditorRoslyn Costanzo | Associate Style EditorTheresa Quick | Associate Style Editor

Alex Hughes | Editorial Intern

Contributing Writers Rod Cleaver

Letters to the editor: [email protected].

A DV E RT I S I N G

John McGouran Sales Director416-258-8538

[email protected]

Paul OlechowskiSenior Account Manager

[email protected]

media inc

As songwriter Guy Clark said, “the only difference between men and boys is the price of their toys.” Quite right; this is as it should be, except that, at some point, price shouldn’t be the only difference. As a man, it’s time to think about adding a sense of style to your toy chest. Take your watch for example. You have no doubt already ditched your ordinary cell phone for a 3G BlackBerry, swapped the canvas knapsack for a Prada briefcase, and the anorak for a proper overcoat. So what’s with the dime-store digital? No matter what you drive, wear or text with, you must know that you will increase your chances of being taken seriously by wearing a great watch.

There is something reassuringly authentic about a great timepiece. Unlike most other luxury products, watches were born of two things: necessity and curiosity. The ancients needed to rotate crops; you need to keep lunch appointments. A timepiece is necessary for the organization of society. That said, the watch has become an important expression of per-sonal style. It can be tastefully subtle (compared with, say, a Lamborghini, which can’t be displayed in either the boardroom or on the basketball court), and yet utterly distinctive, as the watches in this section prove.

Since the invention of the escapement mechanism some 200 years ago, one finicky watchmaker after another has demonstrated his inability to simply leave it at that. There is now a very specific watch for everything from mountain climbing to dealmaking, from diving to dancing. There are hundreds of options to suit every activity known to man, including just kicking back and doing nothing. You’re going to need more than one.

Timepieces have come a long way since the sun dial. We’re launching Time & Style to get you caught up. Within these pages you’ll find trend-setting timepieces, a brief glossary to help you distinguish a GMT from a tourbillon, and even a few favourite picks from the man with the best toy chest of them all, James Bond.

TiCk TALk

Carol Besler, Watch Editor

www.timeandstyle.ca

3 TIME & STYLEQuantum Of Solace © 2008 Danjaq, United Artists, CPII. 007 TM and related James Bond Trademarks © 1962-2008 Danjaq and United Artists. All Rights Reserved. 007 TM and related James Bond Trademarks are trademarks of Danjaq licensed by EON Productions Limited

IN CINEMAS NOVEMBER

JB_OMEGA_AD.indd 1 10/31/08 9:33:51 AM

What should I pay for a watch? It depends. Even this, our best estimation of what you might reasonably expect from a watch in a given price range, comes with a caveat: these are not rules, they are guidelines, and there are exceptions. Th ere are so many variables—case and bracelet construction and materi-als, dial fi nish, movement specifi cations and calibers, fi nish-ing, components, level of workmanship, exclusivity and, yes, brand name—within these categories, and from one brand to another, that it is impossible to be more than general. To get started read this page, visit a reputable dealer, ask some ques-tions and try on some watches.

UNDER $1,000: Th e watch is likely to have a mineral rather than a sapphire crystal, which means it is less scratch resistant. While it is possible to fi nd a watch with a mechani-cal movement under $1,000, it is unlikely you’ll fi nd one that is reliable and made to Swiss standards for less than at least $600. You would be bett er off with quartz in this range; it will be more accurate and will last longer. In terms of metal, the watch could be stainless steel or gold plated (or both). A multi-function quartz movement can provide extra functions, such as alarm, chronograph or date window, but a mechanical

watch in this price segment is unlikely to do more than simply tell the time. Th at said, there are one or two entry-level brands that off er sapphire crystals and decent automatic movements, some with date windows.

TAG Heuer Formula 1 – $900With a red dial and stainless steel brace-let, a rotating, titanium-carbide coated bezel, screw-in crown, double safety clasp, luminescent hands and hour markers and scratch-resistant sapphire crystal this Tag is an overachiever at this price.

$1,000–$5,000: At this point, you will start fi nding mechani-cal, automatic movements, some with complications—that is, extra modules on a basic movement for additional func-tions, such as power reserve or chronograph. Both quartz and mechanical watches in this category are constructed, fi nished and calibrated to a higher standard, and are usually Swiss (some COSC certifi ed) or Japanese made. Steel watches in this category should be of a high quality of no less than 316L steel. Combinations of steel and solid gold are available at this price. If it’s solid gold, it will be on a strap, rather than a solid gold bracelet. Hands and markers on the dials in this

segment are likely to be fi nished with Superluminova, a pho-toluminescent material that makes them glow in the dark. Bracelets should be supple and well constructed, with links that are individually cast, milled, polished and assembled. Dials might be fi nished with a guilloché patt ern or set with mother-of-pearl. Th e crystal should be sapphire.

Longines Admiral GMT – $2,950

The 24-hour chapter ring is located in black on the bezel, in contrast to the silvered dial for ease of legibility.

Classic yet masculine.

$5,000 PLUS: Th is is where it gets really interesting. Complicated move-ments, including day/date, perpetual calendar, moon phase indicator, power-reserve, alarm, minute-repeater, tourbillon. Th ere are many quartz watches in this price range, usually produced by the top luxury brands, and they are well fi nished, with superior components and detailing. Over $10,000, you can expect to see solid gold and platinum watches (both case and bracelet). For a litt le more, you can add diamonds; for a lot more, you can add a lot of diamonds. If you go for the full pavé option (covered in diamonds), keep in mind that baguett e (square) diamonds are more masculine. Dials are guilloched or composed of mother-of-pearl, enameled, hand-painted or made of an exotic mineral such as lapis lazuli or aventurine. You start to get hand fi nishing in this category, including polished, engraved and otherwise fi nished com-ponents in the movement and on the rotor, which are oft en visible through a crystal caseback or a window in the dial.

The Patek Philippe Nautilus – $142,300

With moon phase, date, power reserve indicator and seconds subdial—and 5.7

carats of baguette diamonds set into the dial of the 40 mm white-gold case

the Nautilus is as fully loaded as it gets.

Special thanks to Michel Cliff , manager of the watch department at Birks on Bloor in Toronto for his expert guidance.

Which Watch?Watches can cost very little or more than the average home.

What should you expect at each price point.? Time & Style helps.

ponents in the movement and on the rotor, which are oft en

the silvered dial for ease of legibility. Classic yet masculine.

4 TIME & STYLE

WYNTON MARSALIS,composer-performer, virtuoso.

new vizio® chronograph instainless steel, tungsten carbide,

carbon fiber and rubber.movado.com

Ebel-Movado-ESQ 7.5X10.25.indd 3 10/30/08 5:20:51 PMTime_Ads_verify.indd 2 10/31/08 9:37:03 AM

What should I pay for a watch? It depends. Even this, our best estimation of what you might reasonably expect from a watch in a given price range, comes with a caveat: these are not rules, they are guidelines, and there are exceptions. Th ere are so many variables—case and bracelet construction and materi-als, dial fi nish, movement specifi cations and calibers, fi nish-ing, components, level of workmanship, exclusivity and, yes, brand name—within these categories, and from one brand to another, that it is impossible to be more than general. To get started read this page, visit a reputable dealer, ask some ques-tions and try on some watches.

UNDER $1,000: Th e watch is likely to have a mineral rather than a sapphire crystal, which means it is less scratch resistant. While it is possible to fi nd a watch with a mechani-cal movement under $1,000, it is unlikely you’ll fi nd one that is reliable and made to Swiss standards for less than at least $600. You would be bett er off with quartz in this range; it will be more accurate and will last longer. In terms of metal, the watch could be stainless steel or gold plated (or both). A multi-function quartz movement can provide extra functions, such as alarm, chronograph or date window, but a mechanical

watch in this price segment is unlikely to do more than simply tell the time. Th at said, there are one or two entry-level brands that off er sapphire crystals and decent automatic movements, some with date windows.

TAG Heuer Formula 1 – $900With a red dial and stainless steel brace-let, a rotating, titanium-carbide coated bezel, screw-in crown, double safety clasp, luminescent hands and hour markers and scratch-resistant sapphire crystal this Tag is an overachiever at this price.

$1,000–$5,000: At this point, you will start fi nding mechani-cal, automatic movements, some with complications—that is, extra modules on a basic movement for additional func-tions, such as power reserve or chronograph. Both quartz and mechanical watches in this category are constructed, fi nished and calibrated to a higher standard, and are usually Swiss (some COSC certifi ed) or Japanese made. Steel watches in this category should be of a high quality of no less than 316L steel. Combinations of steel and solid gold are available at this price. If it’s solid gold, it will be on a strap, rather than a solid gold bracelet. Hands and markers on the dials in this

segment are likely to be fi nished with Superluminova, a pho-toluminescent material that makes them glow in the dark. Bracelets should be supple and well constructed, with links that are individually cast, milled, polished and assembled. Dials might be fi nished with a guilloché patt ern or set with mother-of-pearl. Th e crystal should be sapphire.

Longines Admiral GMT – $2,950

The 24-hour chapter ring is located in black on the bezel, in contrast to the silvered dial for ease of legibility.

Classic yet masculine.

$5,000 PLUS: Th is is where it gets really interesting. Complicated move-ments, including day/date, perpetual calendar, moon phase indicator, power-reserve, alarm, minute-repeater, tourbillon. Th ere are many quartz watches in this price range, usually produced by the top luxury brands, and they are well fi nished, with superior components and detailing. Over $10,000, you can expect to see solid gold and platinum watches (both case and bracelet). For a litt le more, you can add diamonds; for a lot more, you can add a lot of diamonds. If you go for the full pavé option (covered in diamonds), keep in mind that baguett e (square) diamonds are more masculine. Dials are guilloched or composed of mother-of-pearl, enameled, hand-painted or made of an exotic mineral such as lapis lazuli or aventurine. You start to get hand fi nishing in this category, including polished, engraved and otherwise fi nished com-ponents in the movement and on the rotor, which are oft en visible through a crystal caseback or a window in the dial.

The Patek Philippe Nautilus – $142,300

With moon phase, date, power reserve indicator and seconds subdial—and 5.7

carats of baguette diamonds set into the dial of the 40 mm white-gold case

the Nautilus is as fully loaded as it gets.

Special thanks to Michel Cliff , manager of the watch department at Birks on Bloor in Toronto for his expert guidance.

Which Watch?Watches can cost very little or more than the average home.

What should you expect at each price point.? Time & Style helps.

ponents in the movement and on the rotor, which are oft en

the silvered dial for ease of legibility. Classic yet masculine.

4 TIME & STYLE

WYNTON MARSALIS,composer-performer, virtuoso.

new vizio® chronograph instainless steel, tungsten carbide,

carbon fiber and rubber.movado.com

Watch TrendsJust as in fashion, timepieces are subject to fl eeting fads.

We’ve selected the more enduring trends for you.

Fashion experts tell us that in times like these, classic dressing is the way to go—invest in staples rather

than shopping for the season. When it comes to fi ne watches, this habit is not the exception but the rule. Th ere are no “seasons” in watch design. Th ere are annual intro-ductions, usually in very limited editions, but a “trend” can last for years, in some cases, a lifetime, because there is always some classic element. Th e following six watch design directions have both immediate relevance and staying power. You might say they’re timeless.

1. VINTAGE. Th e watch industry is about nothing if not tradition. Th e elite brands have a century of archives to draw on, and producing replicas has become a way of acknowledging a brand’s heritage. Some retro styles have a modern twist, others are faithful versions of the original. All have improved movements.

Th e vintage-inspired William Baume Collection from Baume & Mercier bears the hallmarks of the original 1950s-era collection: an exceptionally large crown, a more rounded case, a silvered dial, tapered hands and a retrograde date indicator. $4,990.

2. BLACK. Th is perennial fashion colour has gone totally Johnny Cash in terms of watch design. Dial, markers, bezel and bracelet are piled black-on-black, with cases that are either PVD-coated (physical vapour deposition) or DLC-coated (diamond-like carbon) for extra strength and colour. Engraved metals or carbon fi bre, the black leather jacket of watch dials, add texture.

Th e all-black Ebel Tekton, with technofi bre strap, is a European football (soccer) watch—made specifi cally for the FC Bayern Munich team—with a retrograde timer for the two 45-minute periods that comprise a match. Hence the calibre number, 245. $12,900

3. DIAMONDS. Diamonds are now so ubiquitous on women’s watches that not only the fashion brands are set with them. Th e trend has spilled over to the men’s cat-egory in an endeavour to add value and, of course, style. Th e trick is to keep it subtle to avoid the pimp look.

Th e Harrison from Esquire is a stainless-steel dress watch with an elegant, coin-edged bezel, a Swiss quartz movement and a black, engraved dial set with 12 dia-mond hour markers. $395

4. SQUARE. Ever since Cartier introduced the Santos-Dumont in 1911, it has been hip for watches to be square. Th e past two years in particular have produced a wave of four-sided styles, with a distinctively mascu-line edge.

TAG Heuer classic Monaco chronograph, with black dial and black alligator strap. $3,900

5. ROSE GOLD. Rose gold has a subtle, almost brown-ish colour that is considered less fl ashy than yellow gold. It was the colour traditionally used for special-edition watches, but is now mainstream and usually mixed with black in sportier collections. (Gold is alloyed with cop-per and silver; rose gold simply has a higher proportion of copper).

Th e Movado Series 800 Chronograph in 18k red gold falls into the “sports/elegance” genre, with pinstripe engraving on the black dial and subtle, integrated pushers. $7,700 on a black strap. –C.B.

6 TIME & STYLE

Time_Ads_verify.indd 3 10/31/08 9:43:54 AM