tidings april 2013

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20// Capperby Michael PinkusA justification for screwcaps.

22// pas Nouveauby evan saviolidisChanging the face of Beaujolais.

24// a liquid Careerby tod stewartAn exclusive interview with Canadian whisky expert, Davin de Kergommeaux.

29// TappiNgby tiM PawseyThe Next Big Thing: wine on tap.

//features

32// growerby carolyn evans-haMMondNever heard of grower Cham-pagnes? Tidings explains.

34// Xby rick vansickleThe gripping story of a grape from vine to wine.

39// oNe lump or Twoby duncan holMesIt’s always time for tea.

44// liviNg freeby roseMary MantiniNavigating a gluten and dairy rich world.

48// roasTby Merle rosensteinSmall batch coffee roasters are a growing trend.

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4 // April 2013

7// CoNTribuTors

8// from The ediTor

11// CoNversaTioNsLetters to the editor.

12// feedtoM delarzac

14// umamiJoanne will

17// lazy miXologisTcrystal luxMore

18// boN vivaNTPeter rockwell

47// musT TryGilles bois

51// maTTer of TasTesheila swerlinG-Puritt

52// daviNeGurvinder bhatia

55// bouqueT garNinancy Johnson

66// fiNal wordtony asPler

//à la carte

//notes50// The mav NoTes

54// The food NoTesAn appetizing selection

of food-friendly faves.

58// The buyiNg guideTop wines from around

the world scored.

argentina // p. 58australia // p. 58-59

austria // p. 59Canada // p. 59-60

Chile // p. 60FranCe // p. 61-62

italy // p. 62-63new Zealand // p. 63

portugal // p. 63south aFriCa // p. 63

spain // p. 64united states // p. 64-65

sCotCh // p. 6547

1755

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We continue celebrating 40 years providing every wine loving Canadian access to exclusive, quality wine.

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tidingsmag.com \\ 7

Next MoNth IN tIdINgsMixing up a Martini

the art of entertaining

Defining a new LangueDoc

Diving into the Douro

canaDa’s ciDer craze

can we cook Like the french

reveaLing ontario’s south coast

... anD so Much More

//contributors

Rick VanSickle is a freelance wine writer who lives with his family in Niagara where a good bottle of wine is always nearby. He publishes a website called WinesInNiagara.com.

Ron’s “aha” wine experience occurred in 1979, when he had an affair with a case of 1961 Garrafeira from Portugal. Life since has been a quest for similarly fulfilling experiences, occasionally successful.

Tim Pawsey (aka the Hired Belly) has been spreading the good news about food and wine in Vancouver, and well beyond, for about 20 kilos. Follow him online at hiredBelly.com, Twitter @hiredbelly and for regular tastings and wine recos at rebelmouse.com/hiredbelly/. His columns run in North Shore News, Vancouver Courier and many others, as well as in monthly WHERE Magazine, BCLS Taste Magazine among others.

Sheila Swerling Puritt is a recognized judge at national and interna-tional wine, spirit and food competitions. She has maintained an ongoing love affair with the industry dating back to university and has taught in Sommelier programs. She was also President of the Wine Writers Circle of Canada.

//online+ more on tidingsmag.com

Follow us on twitter and tumblrQuenchbytidings.tumblr.comtwitter.com/Quenchbytidings

Mixing it up Sheila Swerling-Puritt offers up four fun cocktails that are sure to keep you smiling.

Cooking sChool Learn how to up the flavour quotient of your meals with almond and coconut flour.

wine tasting ClubCome pay tribute to some old friends: liqueur and grappa.

Cooking Challenge Ginger, Garlic, Coconut Chicken Thighs are in the house!

new videos Visit videos.quenchbytidings.com to see contributing editor, Gurvinder Bhatia on the Grapeful Palate.

plus! OrIGINAL reCIPeS; A DAILy SerVING Of fOOD AND DrINK NewS AND VIewS; CuLINAry TIPS, TrICKS AND TeChNIqueS.

8 // April 2013

april 2013 \\ Issue # 310

//from the editor

my many wishes eDITOr-IN-ChIef Aldo Parise [email protected]

ASSOCIATe eDITOr rosemary Mantini [email protected]

CONTrIBuTING eDITOrS Gurvinder Bhatia, Tod Stewart

CONTrIBuTING fOOD eDITOr Nancy Johnson

COLuMNISTS Tony Aspler, Peter rockwell, Tom de Larzac, Joanne will, Sheila Swerling-Puritt, Crystal Luxmore, Gilles Bois

CONTrIBuTOrS Sean wood, harry hertscheg, evan Saviolidis, Gilles Bois, rick VanSickle, Carolyn evans-hammond, Merle rosenstein, Tim Pawsey, Michael Pinkus, Duncan holmes

TASTerS Tony Aspler, rick VanSickle, evan Saviolidis, Gilles Bois, harry hertscheg, Sean wood, Jonathan Smithe, ron Liteplo and Gurvinder Bhatia

COPy DeSK Lee Springer, Kathy Sinclair

CreATIVe By PArIS ASSOCIATeS

ArT DIreCTION Aldo Parise

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ILLuSTrATIONS & PhOTOGrAPhy Matt Daley, francesco Gallé, Push/Stop Studio, august photography, westen Photo Studio

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AudIted by

In a lifetime, you can accumulate an insane number of wishes. The more you see, the more you wish it was somehow better, bigger or simply yours. Let me give you a quick rundown of some of my favourites.

I wish more wines were available. There just aren’t enough around. Now you may say we have plenty, but I know there is more out there. How do I know so definitively? I travel. I recently held a Wine 101 class where a number of my eager students talked about the great wines of Italy, South Africa, New Zealand — you name it — that they had tried while travelling to those countries. Once they got home they were impossible to find locally.

I know its difficult to stock the shelves with every single bottle in the world but it would be nice to see, wouldn’t it. Maybe I’m thinking too big.

I wish the Next Big Thing was more of an everyday occurrence. Let me explain. It seems that trends are accumulated and project-ed to you only once a year. These trends shouldn’t be disseminated like the Oscars. Instead magazines, like Tidings, should be throw-ing them at you every chance we get. We’ll work on that.

I wish more restaurants served wine by the glass. I always en-courage my students to taste, taste, then taste some more. If you’ve tasted everything at your house, crash your neighbour’s cellar and — not to sound repetitive — taste again. But if more restau-rants served quality wines by the glass then poof, you can have a plethora of glasses during your meal. Well that may only be me but you know where I’m going with this.

I wish for world … Now I know I’m going too far.

9th AnnuAl Next bIg thINg Issue

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tidingsmag.com \\ 11

Tom De Larzac’s Moroccan Chicken Stew hit the spot perfectly. It’s definitely a new family favourite.Russ Doolan, Montreal

I find that, like Gurvinder Bhatia (“Punched By Malbec”), most people think Argentina grows just one or two grape varieties. Having lived there for a time, I can attest to the variety and high quality of wine produced there. I’m glad the rest of the world now has the opportunity to try it, too.Alan London, email

Re: Rick Van Sickle’s “Artisan”. I was very glad to read that a new distillery has opened in the Niagara Region. My husband and I love to spend a few weekends each year exploring all the new wineries, bakeries and the like that pop up in that area.Terri Fowler, email

I laughed out loud when I read Carolyn Evans-Hammond’s “Death of the Twinkie”. When I was a child, the rumour was that twinkies weren’t baked. They were created out of some crazy chemical mixture. Not true, of course. But, I still can’t imagine actually eating them. Mary Franke, email

I always find Duncan Holmes’ recipes to be fun and inspiring. This month’s batch was no different. Sticky Date Pudding gave my family and me a whole new and wonderful perspective on dates. Thank you!Sandra Falazzo, Vancouver

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... most people think Argentina grows just one or two grape varieties ...

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12 // April 2013

a farmer’s bounty\\ feed By TOM De LArzAC

As winter starts to turn to spring, my mood usually begins to turn with it. When I was a kid, I really enjoyed the cold, snowy days of winter; I didn’t take much notice that spring had arrived. But now that I am older, those snowy days just aren’t the same. As the days begin to get a little longer I am excited that spring, and in turn, summer is right around the corner. For me, this is also a good and exciting time to change my dining routine, to get away from the typically rich winter stews and braised dishes and start eating something a little lighter and fresher.

I usually start going to farmers’ markets much more fre-quently this time of year, and love that at every vendors’ booth there is always new inspiration to be found. With all the new varieties of fruits and vegetables available, I enjoy taking this time to try something new or long forgotten. Fennel is one of the vegetables that falls under my “long forgotten” category, likely for many others. With a distinctive liquorice taste, most people have a love or hate relationship with it. Though by bak-ing and roasting most foods, strong flavours mellow and sweet flavours are brought to the forefront, these things combined do wonders; fennel is no exception. In and of itself, this may not be enough to convince most people to give this forgotten food a try, but by combining it with something as familiar as a vine-rip-ened tomato, we have something that makes a great transition from the hearty winter dishes to the fresh and colourful ones that are representative of this new season.

blisTered roasT TomaToes2 fennel bulbs, finely sliced4 tbsp olive oil1 tbsp balsamic vinegar2 lb vine-ripened tomatoes (i.e. cherry or other

small whole tomato)2 cloves of garlic, minced

1. Preheat oven to 400˚F. In a bowl toss fennel, half of the olive oil and balsamic vinegar along with a generous pinch of salt and pepper. Spread evenly onto a large baking sheet with rim.2. Take a fork and pierce the skin of each tomato 2 or 3 times and place in the same bowl used for the fennel. Mix in garlic, remaining olive oil and two pinches of salt and pepper. Spread evenly over fennel.3. Bake for 45 minutes or until fennel has softened and tomatoes have begun to shrink and break open. 4. Serve with pan-seared white fish or your favourite meat dish.

… Look for a steely Sauvignon Blanc to help balance the fennel.

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14 // April 2013

ode to the chestnut\\ umami By JOANNe wILL

The American chestnut tree, native to parts of eastern Canada and the US, played a significant role in the diets of our foraging forefathers, their livestock and wildlife. Raw, roasted, boiled, or barbecued, chestnuts still enrich modern dishes, yet today the nuts we consume on this continent are mostly imported.

Chestnuts roasting on an open fire may not be top of mind as our thoughts turn to warmer days, yet Mel Tormé did pen “The Christmas Song” during the summer heat in 1944. The tune is a testament to how plentiful chestnuts were on this continent at one time. So, what happened?

Scientists estimate that the Ameri-can chestnut made up 35 per cent of the dominant tree species in the forest range that stretches from Maine to Georgia, across to Michigan and up into southern Ontario. In the early 1900s a blight (believed to be from imported Asian chestnut stock) was introduced to America and within 40 years, 99.9 per cent of the 4-billion-strong native chestnut species was wiped out.

“There are now, in the wild, in south-ern Ontario for example, probably be-tween 1,000 and 2,000 American chestnut trees,” says Dr Adam Dale, of the depart-ment of plant agriculture at the University of Guelph. “The ones that remain have some resistance to the blight, but they’re slowly dying off and can’t produce nuts. The problem is there’s a tree here, and in many cases there is no other tree for five miles. They can’t pollinate themselves, so they can’t produce seed. We have the climate here to grow them; it’s a question of getting some genotypes that will work. With trees, this is a very long-term en-deavour in terms of the human lifespan.”

In addition to scientists who are working to create blight-resistant chest-nut trees, there are a handful of commit-ted growers, such as Grimo Nut Nursery near Niagara-on-the-Lake, where con-noisseurs can buy local chestnuts.

What started as a hobby in 1972 for Linda Grimo’s father is now home to brazil nuts, pecans, hazelnuts, black walnut, heart nuts, rare fruits such as quince and mulberry — and nearly 200 chestnut trees.

“We grow and sell the trees, but we also have nut orchards or test orchards, and that’s where our playing takes place. We do research, breeding, evaluate the trees and crop and weigh everything that comes in,” says Grimo.

Grimo, who typically sells out of the September harvest of chestnuts by Halloween each year, believes they’re making a comeback: “It’s a beauti-ful tree, a historic tree, and it’s part of our heritage. The Canadian Chestnut Council is working very hard to restore the trees. They use methods of breeding that continually select the best and most disease-resistant.”

Says Dale: “In the US, scientists have developed new varieties that are suppos-edly blight resistant, and big enough for agricultural purposes. Some hybrids are just starting to be tested in Canada. We’re still in the early stages. We got a grant from the Agricultural Adaptation Council to look for large producing American trees resistant to the blight, and to look at ways of propagating them vegetatively — and we can do that now.”

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tidingsmag.com \\ 17+ Visit tidingsmag.com/drinks/ for more drink recipes

a bitter end\\ lazy miXologisT By CrySTAL LuxMOre

Hops. This wonderful bine is responsible for the beautiful grapefruit, pine or grassy aromatics and crisp, bitter notes of an ale or lager. The Cascade variety has notes of spicy citrus and grapefruit peel that punch you in the face when you drink an American IPA — and I’m big a fan of that puckering slap.

So when I came across bitters made with Cascade hops — I had to find out more.

I called Vancouver bartender Lauren Mote, one half of Kale & Nori Culinary Arts, who designs a range of bitters, including Bittered Sling Extracts Grapefruit & Hops.

“Vancouver has a huge craft beer scene, and there are several strains of hops growing around the Okanagan Valley,” explains Mote. “To me, these Cascade hops have a tasting note of grapefruit peel, so we experimented with several different varieties of grapefruits and added some other ingredients to come up with a bitter that can add complexity to a simple, classic cocktail,” she says.

I tried a few drops of the bitters in a glass of water. The deli-cate aroma was like cutting open a fresh pink grapefruit — the flavours were grapefruit-flesh and peel, soft lemon, juniper and pine, with a faint mango sweetness. Beautiful.

“Lighter spirits work best with these flavours,” says Mote. “A classic combination is grapefruit and gin, but cachaça, pisco, white rum and vodka also work.”

But what about the beer? “For sure,” she says. “Beer follows the same suit as spirits; the bitters will get lost if the beer is too heavy, so try it with wheats, blondes, or Belgians.”

I fell in love with Pisco Sours in Peru, where I picked up Hacienda del Abuelo, a pisco with bright white grape notes

backed by almond and toasted walnut. I decided to try sub-stituting the hops bitters for the Angostura bitters typically used in the Sour. Then I tried swapping the egg white, which adds that lovely frothy texture, for a couple of ounces of a heady, frothy wheat beer. I chose the German classic Schnei-der Weisse Original, sensing its banana and clove notes would complement the pisco’s nuttiness.

The drink was positively spring-fresh. Tartness explodes on the tongue, a mixture of lime with a clove note from the weissbier; then the cocktail warms up with the pisco’s winey heat and a nutty tropical fruit note. The bitters add a very subtle fresh hop character, spritzing up an already- lively cocktail and finishing with dry grapefruit peel. The beer’s carbonation keeps it light and bubbly, unlike the frothy Pisco Sour, which gains weight in the mouth as the egg white disappears.

With the drink’s Champagne-like effervescence and Peru-vian influence, I dubbed it Vilcabamba, after the famous lost city of the Incans, once the royal playground of the kings.

vilCabamba 2 oz Hacienda del Abuelo Pisco 1/4 oz simple syrup1/2 oz freshly squeezed limeGerman hefeweizen beer (to top)2-3 drops Bittered Sling Extracts Grapefruit & Hops Bitters Mix pisco, simple syrup and lime in a shaker filled with ice. Strain into a glass and top with an ounce or two of weissbier (pour quickly to create a frothy head), and add the bitters.

18 // April 2013 + Ask your questions at [email protected]

aeration and screw capping\\ boN vivaNT By PeTer rOCKweLL

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I received a wine aerator as a gift. Do they really work?I understand your suspicions. As a gadget geek from way back, I’ve seen a lot of wine-related gizmos come down the vine, only to have the majority of them turn out to be as useful as a sommelier at a beer garden.

In my collection I’ve got everything from giant tweezers designed to yank wayward corks out of bottles (after you’ve pushed them into the juice with a crappy corkscrew) to a bib that wraps around the neck of a bottle so that you don’t drip wine on the label when pouring (like that’s a big concern). Neither works particularly well.

These toys tend to come on the market in earnest dur-ing the holiday season; just in time to wind up in my stock-ing Christmas morning. That said, I’ve got to admit that the explosion of available aerators makes one think there must be something to these contraptions.

While in Spain a few years ago I visited a tiny, family-run winery in Alicante. During our tasting, the owner/winemaker insisted on using an aerator (a version that looked like a glass orb with a pouring spout sticking out of one end and an entry tube on the other that fit inside the mouth of the bottle).

When I questioned its usefulness he said it made his wines more supple and balanced. I tried a sample of both an aerated and non-aerated version of the same wine and couldn’t detect much of a difference.

Like you, I acquired one recently. It’s a simpler style made of a metal filter wrapped in a perforated rubber casing. Looking a bit like the barrel of an assault rifle, it’s designed to wedge into the bottle. When the wine is poured, it runs through the open slots providing some preliminary air time before it hits the glass.

Your question inspired me to finally give it a test drive with three different full-bodied red wines and, by darn, it did shave off much of their aggressive edges, making each wine come across like it had been decanted for a short time.

Do they all work? That I can’t say, definitively. What I do know is that mine seems to, and that pleases me.

The ease of opening, and seemingly fresher flavour profiles, of wines under screw cap has made me an alternative-to-cork convert. How come every wine isn’t capped?I’m with you friend. Nowadays nothing gets me the stink eye more than bringing a bottle of wine that has a cork in it to a dinner party. While watching someone rummage through their kitchen drawers desperately looking for a corkscrew never gets old, having to take the abuse for creating the situation in the first place is starting to mitigate my enjoyment.

It’s a screw cap world, after all. With a faster adoption rate than Angelina Jolie, the humble metal closure (one formerly as-sociated with bottles you’d drink out of while still in the brown paper bag) has become the 21st century’s hippest wine-topper.

You can thank the New Zealanders. They’re the ones that decided that they had had enough of corked wines (and by corked I mean cork-tainted, thanks to some nasty chemical compounds that can infect natural stoppers), and that a cap was where it’s at.

Though North Americans love the convenience and how wines taste under cap (fresher, as you mentioned), the majority of European and Asian wine lovers still see them as an indicator of low-brow juice and one that doesn’t allow wine to age properly.

Europe’s top-draw wine regions (think Bordeaux, Burgundy, Rioja, Piedmont and Tuscany) produce pricey wines, and the international sentiment tends to be that their posh reputation is tarnished if they’re not under natural cork.

While you’ll see some French, Spanish and Italian wines un-der metal, they tend to be of the table wine variety. Will things ever change? Old habits die hard in the wine business, but you the consumer will ultimately make that final decision.

That said, I don’t think I’ll live long enough to hear the crack of a cap on a bottle of Château Latour.

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20 // April 2013

Just five years ago we were all talking about what we would want to see on the top of a bottle, and the battle of the closure was fierce. These days there still remains a cork camp and a screw cap camp, but where a majority lie, especially in Ontario, is somewhere in-between.

If this were a game show, say Family Feud, I’d say, “10 wine-makers were surveyed, top answer is on the board: What closure is on your bottles?” The answer would be a resounding, “both.”

“[The] things we are looking at are consistency, reliability, effect on how wines age, and cost … five years ago, consumer ac-ceptance could have been grouped in there, but now it’s a non-issue,” says Richie Roberts of Fielding Estate Winery. “When the winery opened seven years ago, the wines were bottled 100 per

Cap-perby michael Pinkus

It won’t be long before I’ll be sIt-tIng down wIth my kIds and tellIng them the story of the once hot-ly debated topIc of wIne closures. and It mIght read just lIke the nIght before chrIstmas.

‘Twas many years ago and all through the landsNot a bottle was stirring all wrapped up with bands (capsules doesn’t rhyme)

The wines were all safe in their bunks, racks and cubbiesMommy tucked in and so was her hubby

We looked forward to our bottles of Petrus and BrionSassicaia, Tignanello and stuff from Morgon

I heard a murmuring way off in the distances Some talk and some rumblings about certain instances

The cork industry has failed us, they’ve ruined our bottlesIt’s called TCA, smell and taste it does throttle

It affects 10% the reports do all sayThe worry is killing me I must open bottles today

And so very carefully I pulled a few corksI could smell mouldy basement, wet cardboard and worse

My collection is ruined, I fell to my kneesWhat shall we all do there’s no wine left oh please

And while we were all lamenting the cork industry’s behaviourAnother wind blew with news of a saviour

All hail the Stelvin came news from abroadNo taint and no leaking say the Zealander lot

Australians they too have grown tired of the mouldThey’ve embraced the screw cap and thrown out the old

The argument raged as to which one was hipWith cork versus screw cap on everyone’s lips

Randall Grahm held a cork funeral at a public eventWas the maverick right? Is the cap heaven sent?

Today my dear children the battle is overYou kids today don’t care about closure

The cap isn’t cheap and the cork more romanticTo you youngsters today it’s all just semantics

We now all hail the closure debate as a thing of the past‘Til the next thing comes along that claims it’ll last

For winemakers and owners there’s an uneasy truceBetween the cork in the bottle and the cap that doth screw


cent in natural cork. Four years ago (2008), 70 per cent of our wines were bottled under screw cap. This past year (2012), over 90 per cent of our wines were bottled under screw cap.”

So does that mean that cork will soon be a thing of the past? Not according to many owners: “[We use screw cap to] lock-in the wine and hold it at a certain stage of development, or at least significantly slow development of the wine … For wines where we are building them with bigger tannic structure and where those tertiary flavours are desired, we prefer corks, which allow more timely maturation,” says Daniel Speck of Henry of Pelham. Michele Bosc, from Château des Charmes echoes these sentiments: “If we expect the wine to be enjoyed young and fresh and want the wine to show that way we gener-ally choose screw cap. If the wine is a big red or Chard that will likely stay in bottle for a while (two-plus years) we generally choose high-quality natural cork.” She adds another wrinkle to the debate, “We know natural cork is the most earth-friendly option so our leaning will always be to cork.”

Peter Bodnar-Rod of 13th Street seems to be a purist when it comes to the subject: “Cork is traditional and still denotes quality at the high end.” While Craig McDonald, winemaker at Hillebrand (Trius), is buoyed by studies that state, “New World consumer[s] actually prefer SC over cork,” but that does not stop him from using both on Trius brands. Being orig-inally from Australia, he’s a huge proponent of the screwed system: “Some of the most expensive wines out of Australia (Henschke Hill of Grace Shiraz: $600!) are now SC, so the top-ic deserves consideration.”

This would make folks like Jeff Aubry (Coyote’s Run), Larry Horne (Calamus) and Louise Engel (Featherstone) very happy as they have converted their wineries completely to screw cap. Ed Madronich (Flat Rock) was screwy from day one: “I did ex-tensive research. All the results came back that it was the best closure for short, mid and long term aging/protecting of wine.”

In the case of Featherstone and Calamus it was the Kiwis that had a major influence on their decisions, “it was fallout from [winemaker] Dave’s trip to New Zealand in 2007,” says Louise Engel. “When I came back from New Zealand in 2005, I was sold on Stelvin,” echoes Larry Horne. As for Jeff Aubry, he’s gone whole-hog into the cap camp after once being a corker. “We have zero tolerance for cork-taint … For a while, back in 2004-2005, it became fashionable for everyone to detect cork on a wine … I am very critical of those that use both. Why is a screw cap fine for white wines, but not reds? They either be-lieve the science (i.e. the myth that corks breathe and screw caps don’t), or they don’t. Fence-sitters.”

Cork still has its advocates, but they seem to rely on the ro-mance factor more than the science: “We also consider the ro-mantic side of the ritual of honouring the wine with carefully drilling into the cork and gently pulling. Over the holidays we were fortunate to have enjoyed a 1978 Petrus and 1978 Latour. I can’t imagine simply twisting off a screw cap before decanting them. Sacrilege!” Michele Bosc recounts.

a test90 per cent of the time i am disappointed with plastic closures, and 10 per cent of the time with cork. screw cap still remains the big mystery for long term aging but any wine i have had over five years old seems to retain an element of fruit — yet still shows signs of aging. i take the dichotomy grape, riesling, known for its young fresh tastes, but also for it age-ability — comparing my original review from 2007 to two bottlings from the same year — one closed under screw cap the other under cork to taste the aged difference:

Three reviews for The same wine … henry of Pelham reserve riesling 2005

original 2007 reviewa deliciously smooth appley-peachy number. there are apples, pears and citrus on the nose, and as it moves through your mouth you’ll find the apple in the front and peach at the back. the screw cap closure means this one will stay fresh as the day it was bottled with no worry of taint … lovely.

Cork (January 2013)revealed in stages — lots of petrol, green apple skin and dried apricot on the nose, flavours of lemon pith with a nice lime finish and lively acidity … an hour later the petrol is the prominent aroma with lemon peel and bitter notes on the finish.

screw cap (January 2013)revealed in stages — muted petrol, tight and less expres-sive nose, reductive qualities make it unpleasant to sniff, on the palate the lemon and lime meld together and the acidity even seems muted … an hour later the petrol aromas are lower than on the cork closed wine, flavours of lemon juice with pleasant acidity.

And Daniel Speck says sometimes it is style over substance: “The choice of closure really follows style ... Both artifical en-closures and cork have their merits, just as each grape variety has its unique qualities.”

But Craig McDonald seems to be firmly in the screw cap camp and may drag his winery in that direction in the future if he has his way: “As a winemaker I expect the wine to be enjoyed as intended and not to suffer from some unexpected interference or a dumbing down of the overall wine experience. Faint or barely perceptible TCA is worse than a badly corked wine and it really gets under my skin.” It really is an uneasy truce. •

22 // April 2013

It was one of the great wine marketing successes of the 20th century. Every country in the world clamoured to be the first to offer it. Lavish parties were concocted around it. Retailers couldn’t keep it in stock. People were in love with it.

That was then. Today, the fanfare is over. The grand parties are no more. Retail-

ers, generally, aren’t able to give it away. Many people turn their nose up at it. Of course, what I am referencing is Beaujolais Nouveau.

The main driving force behind Nouveau was George Duboeuf, owner of the largest négociant in the region. His tireless efforts lead to its massive success … and everyone followed in his shoes, as there was money to be made by all. Once again, that was then.

the de gaulle eraThe genesis started with the end of WWII. With France rebuild-ing, de Gaulle encouraged the development of agriculture to sustain the masses. This directive meant that high-yielding clones of Gamay were chosen to replant Beaujolais, so as to quench the French thirst.

Carbonic maceration (or semi-carbonic) was applied as the de rigueur method of vinification, in conjunction with yeast strain 71B, which is primarily responsible for the telltale aromas of bubblegum, pear drop and banana.

This process involves taking whole bunches of grapes, placing them in a stainless steel vat, adding yeast, and then gassing the tank with CO2 for full — or without for semi — carbonic. The weight of the grapes crushes the clusters on the bottom and the resulting juice comes in contact with the yeast, starting regular alcoholic fermentation. CO2, the by-product, then rises, bathing the upper clusters in gas and causing the grapes to ferment internally — an intercellular fermentation, if you will. There is no real maceration to give strength, as the wines are pressed after four days, due to the need to stabilize and bottle them within two months, so that they arrive on global retail shelves by the third Thursday of November. The final product is purple-pink, light, fruity and ready to drink. Essentially, a white wine in red sheep’s clothing.

The demand for Nouveau exploded in the 1970s and vine-yards were planted en masse, mostly on lesser soils and/or flat-lands. This lasted until the early 1990s, with a good proportion of Gamay grapes being converted into the celebratory wine.

By the latter half of the decade, negative reviews by critics and a more educated consumer lead to a decline of sales. Even worse, premium Beaujolais experienced a backlash, as they were lumped together, perception-wise, with Nouveau.

To put it into perspective, in 1998, Beaujolais exports were at 800,000 hectolitres (hl), 2004 saw 500,000 hl leave French ports, and in 2011, 300,000 hl landed on foreign shores. With dwindling sales, surplus Nouveau was distilled and/or trans-formed into vinegar. To combat the dilemma of overproduction, in the early aughts, the government and EU instituted a vine pull out scheme. From 22,000 ha of vines, vineyards were pared down to the current 17,000 ha, with much of the aforementioned flat terrain being converted into housing.

the nouveau serIousAs one vigneron had told me while visiting the region, “in the minds of consumers, if a wine does not keep, it isn’t a seri-ous wine.” With all things being equal, there is indeed great Beaujolais to be had.

When referencing these wines, it is generally one of the 10 crus, which are located in the northern quadrant of Beaujolais. Generally, but not exclusively, these terroirs are where the gran-ite slopes reflect the heat of the sun into the old vines contained within their boundaries. Vinification-wise, there are two philos-ophies. The first is carbonic maceration, but with 10 days of soak, so as to give depth. Alternatively, the Burgundian method comes into play. Here, Gamay is treated like its cousin to the north, Pi-not Noir. Regular punch downs and oak aging are involved, much like it was done over a hundred years ago, before the arrival of carbonic. Ironically, many of the famous Burgundian négociants also produce wine in Beaujolais.

pasnouveau

by EvAN SAvIolIdIS


It is these wines, backed by a younger generation of winemakers who are domaine bottling, that are changing the face of Beaujolais.

Beaujolais also benefits from three factors. The first is the Gamay grape, which is a marketing tool in itself, as no other region really specializes in it. Second, a trio of great vintages: 2009, 2010 and 2011. The benchmark vintage is 2009 — being ex-tremely warm, it produced some of the most overt and concen-trated Beaujolais I have ever tasted. 2010 is a more classic vin-tage, showing great balance, with classic acidity. The 2011, even though a touch lighter, are elegant offerings. Last is price. Many of these wines can be had for under $20, with the super premium topping out at $35. If you were to purchase a qualitatively equiv-alent Burgundy, it would easily cost double the price.

To further reinforce the precocious state of affairs, just be-fore going to print, we received notice that there was a possi-bility that upwards of 200 Beaujolais producers might be out of business because of the extremely low yields in 2012. With little wine to be sold, and elevated overheads, it is a distressing time for many of the smaller vigneron in the region.

JeAN-PAuL BruN TerreS DóreeS MOrGON 2010 ($19.95)Brun’s 2010 Morgon is a super impressive offering with loads of cassis, cherry, violets, smoked meat and cloves, both on the nose and palate. There is excellent length, elevated acidity and tannin. Hold until 2014 and then drink until 2022.

MOMMeSSIN ChâTeAu De PIerreux BrOuILLy LA réSerVe Du ChâTeAux 2009 ($27.60)Made from 80-year-old vines, this full-bodied Beaujolais is made in an international style, with lots of new toasty/spicy oak meshing with cherry jam, flowers and earth. It starts off with a lush texture but the tannins do assert themselves on the finale. Hold until 2014 and then drink until 2025.

DOMAINe rueT LeS GrANDS CrAS MOrGON 2011 ($16.95)The deep ruby colour leads into a bouquet of pepper, cherry, plum, peach and flowers. There is richness, but the tangy acidity and firm tannins provide structure. Grill up some steak, add some au poivre sauce, and you have one hell of a combination.

DOMAINe MANOIr Du CArrA Cru CLASSé JuLIeNAS 2010 ($19.95)This aromatic Beaujolais exudes cassis, black raspberry, strawberry, pepper, cinnamon and oregano. There is crisp acidity, and as it stands, the tannins are still a tad assertive, so hold until the end of 2013 and then drink until 2019.

ChâTeAu ThIVIN CôTe De BrOuILLy CuVee zACChArIe 2010 ($25)Plum, strawberry, earth, flowers and black pepper race across the senses. Fresh acidity and supple tannins make for a sublime pairing with roast pork loin with a prune sauce.

a sNapshot of the 10 cruseven though they all have their distinctive personalities, as a general rule, the crus can be classified by weight: lightest to fullest. here is a quick overview of each.

lightChiroubles: the cru with the highest elevation. these are best drunk young — the archetypal beaujolais.fleurie: Produces two different styles of wine, which are both fruity and elegant. at the higher elevations, the wines resemble chiroubles. at lower altitudes, they are more structured and offer some longevity.sT-amour: the most northern cru, and the smallest. Most st-amour we see in canada is ready to consume, but a few pronounced versions do exist.

mediumbrouilly: this, the largest cru, produces wines that are robust and flavourful.CôTe de brouilly: is a hill of schist, smack-dab in the middle of brouilly. these wines, which are sourced from steep slopes, tend to be more concentrated and age worthy than their big brother.Juliénas: named after Julius cesar, these wines are noted for their power and earthy qualities. régnié: received its cru status in 1988. well balanced and highly aromatic in the spectrum of red fruit. the general rule is to drink these over the first 5 years of life.

Fullmorgon: dense, long-lived, dark, full bodied and meaty are all adjectives for this wine. with age, a certain Pinot quality emerges.moulin-à-venT: the ‘windmill’ cru is considered the king of beaujolais. concentrated, age worthy and powerful, the best versions will last two decades. like Morgon, there is a Pinot-esque quality to these wines with time.Chénas: this small cru is this third member of the troika and a portion of the vineyards is even designated as Moulin-a-vent. needless to say, quality is lofty, with a defining aroma of wild roses.

LOuIS JADOT ChâTeAu DeS JACqueS MOuILN-à-VeNT 2011 ($25)Mid weight, this offering resonates with strawberry, cherry, pepper, toast and floral qualities. There is a long finish, ripe tannins and fresh acid. Drink over the next 8 years.

DOMAINe PIrON-LAMeLOISe quArTz ChéNAS 2011 ($22.50)This Chénas displays density and a profile of strawberry, cherry, mineral and spice. Very good length and supple tannins ensure 7 years of longevity. •

24 // April 2013

Thanks in large part to the accessibility of the Internet, the world is now awash with wine writers (which, apparently, are not to be confused with “wine journalists,” but that’s a whole other story). where we once had a “wine lake,” we now have a “wine writer lake.” Those writing about spirits (and here I’m referring to those who really know the stuff as opposed to those who simply drink it and post their opinions) are somewhat rarer. even more elusive are writers whose focus is on one specific type of spirit. which makes a fellow like Davin de Kergommeaux pretty much a “one and only.”

Author, critic, educator, competition judge and trained sommelier, de Kergom-meaux is clearly an expert when it comes to the world of whisky. however, rath-er than taking on the entire whisky category, Ottawa-based de Kergommeaux focuses his attention exclusively (OK, pretty much exclusively) on Canadian whisky, which is akin to a cardiologist focusing strictly on the left ventricle or an engine specialist that only works on oil pumps.

his level of expertise on the subject of Ca-nadian whisky becomes immediately clear early on in his book, Canadian Whisky: The Portable Expert, which was published in the spring of 2012. Not only is de Kergommeaux possessed of a keen palate, he also has a black belt in the history, production and pedigree of Canadian whisky and the distilleries that pro-duce it. Tidings talked to de Kergommeaux about the finer points of Canadian whisky.

tidings: You began Your “liquid career” as a sommelier but ultimatelY followed the whiskY trail. how’d that happen? what was it about whiskY that made You all but abandon wine?de Kergommeaux: I have never worked as a sommelier. Howev-er, my real liquid interest began with whisky — scotch whisky. I was always a taster more than a drinker so I sought variety and I sought nuance. That, I think, is one of the reasons I am so inter-ested in Canadian whisky. There is a huge variety of whiskies and whisky flavours that are still undiscovered. I was not able to learn as much as I wanted on my own, so when I heard there was a wine tasting course at Algonquin College, I signed up. The teacher was just brilliant and I was hooked, so I signed up for the whole som-melier program. It took two years — eight courses if I remember — and I learned so much about tasting and how to taste and why we all taste different things. Nevertheless, there was a group of us who would take turns bringing whisky to class and afterwards we would share a few drams. The sommelier training was just an amazing way to quickly come to understand taste and nuance and I do love wine. However, it has always been whisky first, and I can barely remember half the wines we studied. That’s why I gener-ally let someone else choose the dinner wine.

by Tod STEwArT


t: historicallY, canada is a distilling nation — a whiskY distilling nation to be precise — but it seems, at least to me, that we don’t hear all that much about canadian whiskY these daYs, but a fair amount about scotch and bourbon. recentlY things seem to be changing — is this because there’s alwaYs been a lot going on and we’re now just starting to hear about it, or has there been a real push in the industrY to get some new stuff to market?dK: Canadian whisky has been the largest-selling whisky in North America since 60 years before Prohibition, and much of that whisky is so-called mixing whisky. It is not intended to be sipped, but to be used in cocktails and mixed drinks. Mixing whisky does not generate a fanatical following. Meanwhile there have always been wonderful high-end Canadian whiskies that flew under the connoisseur’s radar. Whiskies such as Wiser’s 18 and Gibson’s 18. We need to remember that the scotch most people know and talk about consists mainly of single malts – the top 10 per cent of the scotch made. We don’t hear people waxing poetic about the 90 per cent of scotch that is blended. In Canada we have a similar top 10 per cent but we have not promoted it. We have been content with the rather huge market for our mixing whiskies. Meanwhile the scotch makers have undertaken a really concerted promotion campaign to keep scotch on everyone’s mind and since single malts came along they have used these to promote the category. At the same time they have backed up the promo with re-ally top-end product. Bourbon makers began to do the same thing about a decade ago, and they have suc-ceeded just as scotch did. In the U.S. bourbon now outsells Canadian whisky for the first time since 1865.

As connoisseurs got to know scotch and bour-bon they began to look elsewhere for new experi-ences. Japan was first off the mark with really great whiskies and now India, Taiwan and others have followed. As connoisseurs began to discover Cana-dian whisky the Canadian distillers leaped in with both feet, turning out one new high-end whisky after another. This year there were at least a dozen top-notch new releases. Add these to the already available high-end whiskies here and it is a new treasure trove for the refined palate.

We also have to acknowledge the “Forty Creek factor.” John K. Hall and his Forty Creek whiskies have become known around the world for their consistently high quality. In just a decade Hall has become the face of Canadian whisky worldwide and connoisseurs globally now devise the most in-genious means to get bottles of his whisky. They also begin to wonder, “If Forty Creek is so great, is there more where this came from?” and I can only respond “Yes, most certainly.”

t: what, in Your opinion, are the most significant developments in the industrY as of late, both positive and negative?dK: The upsurge in connoisseur interest in Canadian whisky is very positive. Couple that with the release of so many top quality new whiskies and we have the beginning of a real movement. Speaking frankly, for-eign ownership can be a good thing or a bad thing de-pending on how well the foreign owners respect the Canadian way of making whisky. Beam did the right thing leaving Alberta Distillers to make whisky their own way just as Pernod-Ricard has done with Wis-er’s. Some others have been kind of Americanized.

“it’s a sad fact that canadian whisky doesn’t get its due. i am committed to changing that, using a ‘kill-rumours-with-facts’ approach, and believe me, there are plenty of myths and misunderstandings about canadian whisky out there.”davin de kergommeaux from www.canadianwhiskY.org/about

26 // April 2013

In distilled rye grain there are a lot of fruity notes that are often just below the threshold of taste. Similarly, in some Canadian whisky there are lovely woody notes that are just too faint for us to appreciate. But add a drop of blending sherry or ma-ple syrup and suddenly these come to life, tremen-dously broadening the palate and the nose. I have heard people say, “If the whisky was any good they wouldn’t need to add sherry,” but this is just like say-ing if the steak was any good they wouldn’t need to add salt. The other thing, and this is really neat, is

that in Canada whisky must be aged for a minimum of three years. But some young spirit, especially younger rye spirit is very flavourful and frisky. Some distillers take advantage of the 9.09 to add a bit of this young Canadian rye spirit as top-dressing to recover those youthful rye notes. Here is my bottom line: If I enjoy the whisky I am not going to un-enjoy it just because it was not made the Scottish way.

t: the wine industrY is firmlY established in canada. craft beers have taken off. whY have we not seen a similar profusion of micro-distilleries? or is it a case (again) of their being out there and mY just not knowing about them? (which leads to the question: if i haven’t heard about them, whY not?)dK: It is very expensive to start a micro-distillery and there is an inordinate amount of red tape involved. As well, liquor profits to distillers are very low in Canada due to high liquor taxes. I understand there are 23 micro-distillers in Canada now, but from a busi-ness perspective, if you want to be a micro-distiller it makes much more sense to set up your business in the more business-friendly government regime south of the border.

t: manY people are a bit bothered bY the “91 per cent” rule* per-taining to canadian whiskY manufacture. what’s the rationale behind this law and, in Your opinion, does it help or hinder the end product? does the fact that a whiskY might not be “100 per cent canadian” bother You in anY waY?dK: The most important thing to me is how the whisky behaves in my mouth. Perhaps it’s the sommelier training but I want flavour, elegance and style all in balance, not some rigid adherence to hypothetical production practices. I think a lot of the objection is really quite naïve. The Scots have promoted their “three ingredients” malarkey and people have bought it hook, line and sinker. Then, when Canadians admit there is a bit of foreign wine or spirit in some of their whisky these folks tell us that in that case it’s not real whisky. Sorry, this is Canadian whisky and we are not bound by Scottish rules – rules incidentally that the Scots themselves do not follow, if only we knew. First there is the soap they add to keep the stills from boiling over. That is not water, barley malt, or yeast. But more importantly there is all the wine and bourbon they add to their whisky. An average empty wine barrel contains about seven litres of in-drink wine. All of this ends up in the scotch, but no one mentions that. The same with bourbon in bourbon barrels. When you consider that many of these scotches spend time in several different barrels that’s a lot of wine and bourbon added.

In Canada we do sometimes add wine or spirit after blending. This began as a way to take advantage of huge tax benefits offered by American govern-ments who wanted to stimulate failing fruit, wine, and spirits industries down there. This only worked though for inexpensive, very high volume mixing whiskies so a lot of the Canadian whiskies were made without taking advan-tage of this loophole. Nowadays some distillers do use wine or spirit to bring out certain flavours but this is no different from what the Scots do. We are just more honest about it and we don’t put much effort into defending the prac-tice, as this is one of the legitimate ways that Canadian whisky is made. Why do I hate oak chips in Chardonnay? Because they taste awful, not because it is not the traditional way of oaking wine.


added drops in a barrel. It’s just not true. If you can taste caramel, and most of us can, it comes from the barrel.

Chill filtering is another thing altogether. Most people who have tasted whisky both ways agree that chill filtering may reduce the flavour and does affect the mouthfeel negatively. It is minor, but noticeable. This includes distillers and quality

assessors. However, the distiller’s worst enemy is the customer who returns whisky to the store. If a store gets too many returns they simply stop stocking that whisky. This is particularly difficult when the large stores decide not to stock a whisky. Many customers understand that non-chill filtered whisky sometimes gets hazy. However, enough customers think there is something wrong with hazy whisky and return it that it becomes a huge nuisance for stores and a night-mare for distillers. If you are selling expensive sin-gle cask bottlings to connoisseurs through specialty stores, that is one thing, but if you have high-volume whisky coming back as returns you just have to chill filter before you lose a big account.

t: corn, barleY, rYe: ranked bY degree of difficultY, which grain is the hardest to turn into whiskY and whY?dK: Each has its quirks. Corn produces a lot of alco-hol, as it is rich in starch. As well its oiliness tends to carry over into the spirit giving a very creamy mouthfeel. Corn needs to be cooked at a higher temperature than other grains so it is a bit more ex-pensive to mash. Barley is not used a whole lot in Canada except as malt.

Rye is poor in starch and rich in proteins so it has a real tendency to foam and mess up the distill-ery. Some distillers will only distil rye grain for a few weeks a year, as it is so sticky and messy and requires so much cleanup. They tend to distil rye at the end of a cycle just before they are going to do a massive cleaning anyway. Because it is poor in starch it does not give a good alcohol yield but the flavour it con-tributes to the whisky is still worth the aggravation.

t: it would be reallY nice to see canadian distillers following the lead of the scots and bottling uncoloured, un-chill filtered and at cask strength. is there anY reason canadian distillers are reluctant to do this (assuming theY are)?dK: I think the uncoloured business is a total myth. I have tasted identical whiskies in coloured and un-coloured versions and there was no difference. More than that, a group of very experienced tasters did the same thing with a large range of blind samples and they, too, were unable to detect differences. This is just a story created by someone looking to convince people he was an expert. As well, there is so much oak caramel in whisky you could never detect a few

28 // April 2013

t: some distillers are starting to wade into the waters of “finish-ing” in ex-sherrY casks, etc. in Your opinion, has this been a successful (or even recommended) practice or is the risk of interfering with the true character of the spirit not worth the chance?dK: I think the idea of true na-ture of the spirit has been high-ly overrated. That said, I think there have been a lot of fail-ures among the finishes. Some wines work with whisky, some simply do not. As well, some Scottish distillers have been us-ing wine to make unpalatable whisky saleable. We have had a bit more luck here in Canada. Think of Canadian Club Sherry Cask, Pike Creek, Forty Creek Port Wood and the like.

t: this is just a personal beef, but i find it a bit mis-leading (read: annoYing) that some distillers are using the term “triple aged” to denote a whiskY being aged nine Years instead of the requisite three. i mean, whY bother? is this just a marketing gimmick or is there some validitY behind the term?dK: Marketing.

t: at the risk of stirring up a hornet’s nest; whiskY and food. as much as i’d love this to work (and i do thank all those who have tried to convince me it does), i, personallY, think it’s a lost cause. sure, there are a few exceptions, but whiskY through the course of a meal just doesn’t do it for me. comments?dK: Whisky works well with very rich snack foods such as cheese or greasy meat in a standing, sipping, and talking atmo-sphere. It is lovely to add a few drops to raw oysters. With des-sert it can be wonderful and with any kind of chocolate it is amazingly good. With a meal? Not at all. It is a forced fit at best and when you drink it like wine you kill your palate. For meal-time stick with wine, beer, or water.

* by law, “Canadian whisky” has to be composed of 91 per cent actual Canadian spirit with the remainder being made up of additional “flavouring ingredients” — sometimes Ameri-can whiskey, sometimes a combination of wine and whisky and in some cases, additional Canadian spirit that has not been matured long enough to legally be called whisky.

t: flavoured/spiced canadian “whiskies”: good thing? bad thing? not reallY whiskY so who cares?dK: I don’t generally drink flavoured whiskies but I think they are a good thing. Why? They are introducing a whole new de-mographic to whisky flavours. Sales are brisk and people are coming back for more.

t: are the demographics for people enjoYing canadian whiskY changing (i.e., Younger, less gender-specific, etc.)?dK: I am not certain but I see more women and more younger people at my tastings lately.

t: what do You think lies ahead for the canadian whiskY industrY? what lies ahead for You in terms of books, projects, etc.?dK: I hope that the current surge in innovation will continue and that connoisseurs will continue to discover great Canadian whis-kies. Yes, I have another book in the works but am not yet ready to talk about it. It’s good though and completely different from anything out there.

t: have there been anY canadian whiskies You’ve come across recentlY that reallY made You go, wow?dK: Lot No. 40; Alberta Premium Dark Horse; Forty Creek Port Wood Reserve; Highwood 25 year old; Calgary Stampede whisky; Canadian Rockies 21 year old; Pike Creek; probably others … •


david Stansfield is one happy man. He’s the sommelier and wine buyer at bustling Tap & Barrel, in the heart of Van-couver’s newest neighbourhood that’s sprouted in the former Olympic Village.

The restaurant (which opened in sum-mer 2012) is well named: The capacious, two-tier, modern space with sweeping views of False Creek and downtown pours just about every drop of wine or beer it sells not by the bottle but by the glass, right out of the tap.

In fact, Tap & Barrel, along with Van-couver Urban Winery, the company that facilitates the process — is transforming wine service at casual dining establish-ments across the city and elsewhere.

The consumer reaction has been nothing short of amazing, says Stansfield, who explains that even he was completely unprepared for such a positive response.

“I bought the entire run of Laughing Stock Sauvignon Blanc for the year, 400 litres. I thought ‘I’m gonna get fired for this — we’ll probably still be serving it next year!’ But we sold out in five weeks and that was an $11 glass of wine from a premium producer,” he chuckles.

Equally surprising, says the sommeli-er, has been the relative drought in bottle sales. “Our list has a full range of well-chosen wines, including some very good values. But as it represents only four per cent of our wine sales, I’m scaling it back.”

Only a year ago, wine on tap was bare-ly a blip on the horizon but signs are that the trend, which arrived south of the bor-der a couple of years ago, is now knocking firmly on Canada’s door.

This summer will see the arrival of another Tap & Barrel, in Coal Harbour, within a bottle toss of the Vancouver Trade and Convention Centre. Plans call for 20 wines (six more than at Olympic Village) and 24 beers on tap, all from Okanagan small to mid-sized wineries and craft breweries.

Wine on tap’s West Coast debut may have been somewhat serendipitous, as it coincided with tougher drinking and driving laws that had already begun to have an impact on whole bottle sales. That, combined with Vancouver’s long-established love affair with wines by the glass, certainly didn’t hurt Tap & Barrel’s bold move. However, much of keg wines’

early success in Vancouver must be cred-ited to the dynamic duo that opened Van-couver Urban Winery.

Mike Macquisten and Steve Thorp rightly figured that if beer can be sold on tap, then why not wine? They went look-ing for clues in Europe (where wine’s been sold in kegs for years) and south of the bor-der, where it’s been catching on in leading edge cities such as San Francisco, Denver and Las Vegas, not to mention New York.

The two did their homework and decid-ed to work with Sonoma-based Free Flow Wines and raised capital to launch their new Fresh Tap venture in an old warehouse on Vancouver’s east side. The first wines, which were an immediate hit, went into Edible Canada at the Market, which now has five taps and plans to introduce more.

Vancouver Urban Winery now works with 30 BC wineries and supplies some 50 restaurants, mainly in Vancouver and Cal-gary, with expectations to double that num-ber by the end of 2013. And while the focus is still firmly on 100 per cent BC-grown wines, the company also has its own imported Roaring Twenties brand of Mendoza/Uco Malbec and Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc.

tappingby TIm PAwSEy

pHoto: tIm pAWsey

30 // April 2013

Hot on the heels of the West Coast is Montreal’s Versay, which markets a stain-less steel system similar to Fresh Tap. Versay CEO Jean Francois Bieler, who has also been in business for just over a year, originally started in collaboration with his cousin, Charles Bieler, who runs New York’s Gotham Project, now with opera-tions in several states.

Getting licensed in Quebec was chal-lenging and took some time, says Jean François. He suggests the acceptance of wine on tap in Montreal has been more gradual than in BC, where Fresh Tap’s ef-forts undoubtedly have been buoyed by the ability to work with Okanagan wineries.

“However, initial response has been very good,” reports Bieler. “Even though in Quebec we drink a lot more wine per capita, our wine culture is more conserva-tive, so there’s more resistance to the con-cept here than in Ontario.”

Versay currently sells to some 25 res-taurants in Quebec; a number that Bieler expects will double by the end of this year. With the system just launched in-troduced in Ontario, in cooperation with Niagara’s Vineland Estates (the first On-tario winery to offer keg wines), he also hopes to be supplying some 50 restau-rants by year’s end.

The main difference between Versay and Fresh Tap is that the former has been focusing on imported regional wines, while the Vancouver company is building its keg business very much on BC wine.

Versay currently offers a full range of 10 imported wines that include a Napa Cab-ernet Sauvignon, a Monterey Sauvignon Blanc, a Charles Smith-made Washington State red blend, Sangiovese from Umbria, a Coteaux d’Aix en Provence rosé and others.

“It’s important to have the diversity so that restauranteurs can vary their op-

tions. We’ll probably be adding another five wines in the next few months,” says Bieler, who says that despite initial chal-lenges, attitudes in Quebec are changing.

“Part of the resistance is due to the fact that sommeliers and cutting edge restau-ranteurs often tend to go for very special-ized wines, most of them not mainstream. They like to work with small producers.”

Versay’s typical installation is four taps, which is quite a lot less than the av-erage US restaurant.

Also, says Bieler, “I was surprised to see the rate of growth in Vancouver. Al-though, if you go to the US it’s completely on fire. In fact, wine on tap is rated the number-one trend in restaurants in 2013.” He says his New York City based cousin can hardly keep up with the demand.

Part of Versay’s launch was made smoother by working with leading som-melier Jessica Harnois as its spokesper-son. “She is very media savvy and never had any problems with the concept from day one. She’s really been a great advocate for us,” says Bieler.

Much of wine on tap’s success also depends on how well chosen the wines being poured are. Everyone involved is emphatic that the focus needs to be on anything but bulk wines.

“First and foremost, they can’t be ‘cheap’ wines, because we never want to be associated with anything that’s bag-in-box,” says Bieler, who looks to work with wines in the range of $20 a bottle.

“We also want them to be more ‘happy hour’ wines than ‘dinner’ wines. We want people to feel like they can have another glass — which means the wines might have more dominant fruit and less structure.”

Vineland Estates Allan Schmidt, who works with Versay, recently introduced his wines to Ontario restaurants and he was surprised by the positive response. “We just thought we would test market in a couple of places. But it leaked out and now I’m getting restaurants calling me from all over the province — even some that we’ve been trying to get into for 10 years,” he laughs.

Schmidt feels wine on tap is a good fit for his wines and has invested in the equipment needed to fill Versay-supplied kegs in the winery.

pHotos: tIm pAWsey

vANcouvEr urBAN wINEry’S STEvE THorP ANd mIkE mAcquISTEN


“This is really taking off ... it’s really exciting, the whole freshness, especially for Canadian, cool climate wines, which are fresher, crisper and have more acidity — especially the aromatic wines like Ries-ling and Gewürz, which respond so well to a keg. And the environmental side of it is a huge benefit.

“We found the wines we’ve allocated to keg, especially the reds (but also the whites), you have to treat them a little differently,” says Schmidt. “You have to make sure they’re ready to drink. Once the wine’s in keg, it doesn’t change. You can’t think about bottle shock, or aging, or worry about oxidization. You have to pick and choose the wine a little bit differently — but that’s fine.

“Our (award-winning) un-oaked Char-donnay does very well and so does the Cab Franc — we’ll be very shortly doing a Pinot Meunier.”

One of Vineland’s very first custom-ers was celebrated Toronto restaurateur and Top Chef Canada head judge Mark McEwan, who now has the wines in all of his restaurants.

While Schmidt admits he was origi-nally “skeptical” about wine on tap, the idea of kegging wine is not new. Raised in the Okanagan, his father Lloyd Schmidt co-founded Sumac Ridge with Harry Mc-Watters, and tried to establish keg wines over 20 years ago, using beer lines.

“It didn’t work, because they’re actu-ally oxygen permeable — and not good for wine. The revolutionary part of the process is the special inert hose that Versay uses.”

Both Fresh Tap and Versay use return-able stainless steel kegs, which are kept in

circulation based on the brewery model (Vancouver Urban Winery currently has some 5000 kegs). However, some suggest that the keg system is not as sustainable as it first might appear because of the carbon footprint incurred by shipping not only full but empty kegs. No doubt, that discus-sion will continue for a while.

Okanagan Crush Pad — which has a well earned reputation for being an early adopt-er — works extensively with Fresh Tap but also uses KeyKeg “one-way” disposable kegs for Haywire Winery wines such as Feenie Goes Haywire, red and white, which it custom blends for the Cactus Club.

“I think Fresh Tap is a good, green option because it’s a reusable vessel. But KeyKeg is also a viable option,” says Hay-wire owner Christine Coletta. “Fresh Tap makes sense in urban settings but not nec-essarily in remote areas, especially when you consider the carbon footprint. We use

both because we have clients who don’t want to have to deal with the empty kegs. It’s healthy to have the choice,” she says.

Regardless of which system is in use, the verdict on wine on tap is definitely in: Virtually every new restaurant in Van-couver so far this year has opened with at least a couple of keg wines and often more — from newly unveiled Forage to Port-side Pub and multi-tap wine bar TWB at Provence Marinaside.

For Vineland’s Allan Schmidt, that likely comes as no surprise. Even though his wine on tap experience has been a relatively short journey, he’s unequivo-cal and proclaims, “It’s great for our industry, great for consumers and great for restauranteurs.” •

clImATE coNTrollEd SuPPly room AT TAP & BArrEl

32 // April 2013

I started this piece, got a few paragraphs in, and was sidetracked. Writing about Champagne always inspires dinner party planning. Who should come? What will I serve? How many can I really fit around the dining room table? Who should sit beside whom?

But first things first: the aperitif! Bubbles! I’ll need more flutes (really must remember to wash stemware the morning after). Or should I go all positively, decadently retro and do the coupes? Or pull out the Pinot Noir glasses to really show off a fabulous and firm blanc de noir. Suddenly, visions of gougères dance in my head.

So, I’ve set aside a bottle of 2002 Andre Clouet Brut Cham-pagne — a thrilling grower Champagne. Scribbled down my guest list. Placed stationary on my desk to pen invitations later this evening. And selected the date of the do. So now, back to the dirty little secret I wanted to share: There has never been a bet-ter moment to drink grower Champagne. And serving the right one at a dinner party is almost the vinous equivalent of secretly having Thomas Keller or Ferran Adrià prepare the meal. Almost.

Grower Champagne you ask? Basically, there are two kinds of Champagnes in this world,

really: house Champagnes and grower Champagnes. House Champagnes are made by huge producers that buy

in most or all of their grapes, and blend to a consistent, sig-nature style. And about nine out of 10 Champagnes seen out-side of France are house Champagnes — most of which are comprised of two dozen names you know and, in some cases, trust such as Billecart-Salmon, Krug, Lanson, Veuve Cliquot, Taittinger and so forth.

Grower Champagnes are made by the people who grow the vines. There are about 15,000 growers in the Champagne region, and about 5,000 of them make their own sparkling wines. And some of these bubblies are incredibly articulate expressions of terroir, outstanding value for money, and pure gems, really. But you need to know which bottles to buy.

It used to be that the largest and most prestigious Cham-pagne houses, affectionately called Grande Marques since about the mid-20th century, could be relied upon for consistent quality. You could trust these names not to let you down, which justi-fied their prices, which have always been steeper than any oth-er sparkling wines in the world. But that reliability is eroding. Many house Champagnes — particularly entry-level non-vintage bottlings, are all-to-often raw and thin with sugary dosage used to offset the lack of proper fruit concentration and balance. At the prices these wines sell for — usually well over $50 per bot-tle — this quality is utterly unacceptable. Yes, Moët et Chandon, Cattier, Nicholas Feuillatte, I’m looking at you.

Of course, some major Champagne houses are still reliable turn-to names. Louis Roederer, Bollinger, Lanson, and Pol Roger spring to mind. But the point is, buying a big name Champagne no longer guarantees a certain standard anymore.

Therein lies the incentive to scout out grower Champagnes. The better growers not only deliver concentration, complex-ity and length at a better price than some of the houses, they also can offer more character. It comes in the form of vintage variation that doesn’t compromise quality, site-specific ter-roir expression, and complexity that comes from indigenous yeast and sometimes judicious use of wood. So André Clouet, Bérèche & Fils, Gaston Chiquet, Henri Billiot, J. L. Vergnon and other rising stars of the region are fast becoming the dar-lings of savvy wine enthusiasts.

Grower Champagnes are made in relatively tiny quantities, though. Moët et Chandon for instance produces 26,000,000 bottles of Champagne per year. Gaston Chiquet makes about 100,000 bottles. Herein lies the rub: Scarcity coupled with ris-ing demand will increase prices, so I suspect top grower Cham-pagnes won’t remain huge bargains long.

If you want to start tasting some of the more exciting grow-ers, start with the following producers. They’re the cream.

growerby cArolyN EvANS-HAmmoNd


gaston chIquetThe Chiquet family has been growing vines in Champagne since 1746. Eight generations later, they’re still doing it with two broth-ers — Antoine and Nicolas Chiquet — at the helm. They own 23 hectares of vineyards where they grow Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meurnier grapes. The average age of their vines is 27 years.

bereche et fIlsThis 9.5 hectare estate produces just 85,000 bottles of wine. Quality has soared in the last decade, and it’s almost certainly a name to watch.

andre clouetWhen Tidings asked owner and winemaker Jean Francois Clouet what makes his wines special, he replied, “I think the main reason that our wines are so special is that all of our vineyards come from the Bouzy region, which is probably the number-one area in Cham-pagne for growing Pinot Noir. All our wines are from first press juice.

“And each bunch of grapes is hand-picked where only the ripest grapes are crushed together to give the very best results. My family owns eight hectares of vineyards, and all are in the Bouzy area producing the best fruit possible.

“In addition, most of our wines are from grapes grown in very poor chalk and calcaire soils, which enhance the wonderful minerality our Champagnes are known for.”

laherte frèresWhat makes the Laherte Frères Champagne shine is best cap-tured in the words of Aurelien Laherte, the owner and wine-maker of the estate: “When my great grandfather started making Champagnes, it was much more difficult. The climate was dif-ferent, and they did not have the knowledge and technology that we possess today. I think our soils are the key to our beautiful Champagnes. The vineyards lie on gentle slopes that used to be the foundation for a large ocean millions of years ago. Because of this, the soils are all chalk and impart a wonderful chalky, miner-al-laden salinity to the final product.”

henry bIllIotThis leading grower-producer churns out a mere 50,000 bottles per year from its five hectares situated in Ambonnay, on the south-facing flank of the Montagne de Reims in the Champagne region. Billiot Champagne is fast becoming a name to trust for elegance, power, and consistent quality.

jean-louIs vergnonThe man behind these wines is a gent named Christophe Con-stant. M. Constant makes the wines for the grower Jean-Louis Vergnon whose five-hectare site is situated in Mesnil. Chris-tophe worked at Pol Roger before joining J.L Vergnon and crafts superb wines. He is particularly well respected for his ability to bring out the finesse of Chardonnay.

vIlmart et cIeTom Stevenson MW, a UK-based critic and probably the world’s top authority on Champagne wrote, “The greatest Champagne grower I know — the Vilmart range starts at bril-liant and just keeps getting better.” These words appeared in The Encyclopedia of Champagne.

The Vilmart et Cie estate is in Rilly, just south of Reims. The vines are at least 30 years old, which means considerable con-centration and complexity can be teased from the fruit. This grower is definitely a name to know. •

how caN you tell If a bottle Is a grower or a house chaMpagNe?Grower champagnes are required by law to have the letters rM on the label. rM stands for récoltant manipulant, which means a grower who makes the wine from his or her own grapes. house champagnes must carry the initials nM, which stands for négociant manipulant, which means an estate that buys in grapes and makes wine.

growerJEAN FrANcoIS clouET

vIlmArT’S lAurENT cHAmPS

34 // April 2013

As far as anyone can tell exactly, Grape X was born on May 14, 2012. And she died on September 22 of the same year. Grape X lived a short but noble life, and made the ultimate sacrifice for the enjoyment of others.

She was born, raised and spent her entire life at Vineland Es-tate, in the first row of the St Urban Vineyard’s Field D, 10th post in, second vine. It was marked with a special plaque until the very end.

Even before Grape X was actually a grape, preparations were being made for her arrival into the world. Pruning in the vineyard took place in February of 2012. The vines were in a dormant state from the moment the leaves dropped in late fall of 2011 until early spring. Pruners leave extra shoots on the vines and the health of the buds, usually 10 to 12 buds per shoot, determine which two shoots will be left to tie off on the trellis system. The Pendlebogen trellising system is used in the St Urban Vineyard, with shoots tied horizontally. Spacing is four-and-a-half feet between vines and nine feet between the rows. The trellis helps with arching of canes and creates better vertical distribution of fruit.

Vineland Estate viticulturist Roman Prydatkewycz noted that the 2012 vintage was about two weeks ahead of sched-ule and nearly four weeks ahead of the 2011 vintage. The most important factor determining bud break, the first stage in a grape’s life, Prydatkewycz said, is the ground temperature, which needs to warm up to about 15 C. “Everything depends on the root system,” he said.

we have bud break!It wasn’t an easy ride, but in early May bud break finally oc-curred in Niagara. There were some very scary moments that could have been catastrophic for grape growers, but, despite all that, another blessed milestone was achieved in mid-May in the evolution of Grape X.

An extremely hot early spring, followed by at least two nail biting below zero nights in late April kept wine growers on pins and needles, and, in some cases, on speed dial to the local heli-copter company, to deal with the threat of frost.

It’s not always the wine that excites me, it’s the journey it takes to get in my glass — from vine, to bud, to flower, to grape, to harvest, to crush-er, to fermentation, to barrel, to bottle and finally to my mouth.

we take the journey lightly, letting mother nature, viticulturists and winemakers do all the work before we show any interest in the life of a grape. after all, it’s not one grape we’re interested in; it’s a whole bunch of them.

I have always wanted to patiently watch a single bud as it grows into a grape, through the various stages it takes before it’s gone in a gulp. I know, I know, how geeky is that, right? well, it’s really geeky, and I admit it. and frankly, I didn’t have time to sit and watch a grape grow.

but I do have friends. friends who know how this stuff works. they agreed to be co-conspirators in helping to explain the journey from vine to grape. for this adventure, something I’m calling the Grape Chronicles, I chose one of niagara’s historic vineyards to find a little grape we called grape X as we followed it through its life cycle this past fall.

It’s here in niagara’s st urban vineyard at vineland estate, the famed riesling mecca that is presided over by winemaker brian schmidt and viticulturist roman prydatkewycz, that we chose a vine that yielded our grape.

this is the story of grape x.

tidingsmag.com \\ 35xby rIck vANSIcklE

36 // April 2013

But sure enough, by May 14, nature followed its path and bud break occurred at wineries across Niagara. A lot had happened since April when warm temperatures put bud development ahead by two or three weeks. Bud break seemed imminent and it looked like Niagara was setting up for an early harvest.

Then all hell broke loose. The wrath of Mother Nature came down hard on Southern Ontario, sending temperatures plum-meting in late April and threatening to do major damage.

For two nights, wineries without wind machines employed helicopters to maintain temperatures on the ground, doing what they could to keep things a degree or two warmer.

The frost caused substantial damage to apple, cherry, plum and nectarine orchards, with some predicting catastrophic yields loss at 70 per cent in some areas of Niagara. But grapes were spared the worst of it and only minimal damage was re-ported in most appellations of Niagara.

With bud break now in the books and the next milestone in the evolution of Grape X being flowering, I asked Vineland’s winemaker Brian Schmidt about the spring so far and the wild ride he’d been on since early April.

Our vine now had two of its shoots tied off with two others left for insurance purposes. There were 14 buds on the tied off shoots and 16 buds on the insurance shoots.

How did such a promising beginning to a season turn so wrong so quickly? One minute it was warm and gorgeous and the next, guys were in helicopters battling frost. How nerve-wracking was that and was there any lasting bud damage, I wondered.

Said Schmidt: “Promising yes, but we always knew there was a risk associated with the blessing of an early spring. Wine re-gions across the globe are dealing with changing and inconsis-tent weather patterns. We are no different. Our task is to make small adjustments to compensate for Mother Nature’s curve balls and to not let ourselves get discouraged.

“Of course, this can be nerve-wracking. But this is what we’ve signed up for. There are worse places we could be other than in Wine Country worrying about the wrath of Mother Nature. Too hot. Too cold. Too dry. Too wet.

“Farmers will always find something to worry about. So far we do not see any excessive bud damage. However I have seen (in other years) shoots emerge and begin to grow as usual then suddenly collapse, seemingly without reason. I pray this does not happen this year.”

flower power!On June 13, I received the email I had been waiting for. “Looking VERY happy in the sun. We have been busy lifting wires and tucking shoots this week. Oh YA. And flowering is pushing full steam ahead.”

Like a proud papa, Schmidt could hardly contain his excite-ment. And the photo attached to his email confirmed the subject line of his message: “FLOWER POWER!”

Flowering was the next big step in the life of Grape X (which re-ally wasn’t a grape at all at this point). When last we’d checked in on Grape X, our vine was just going through bud break. The weather for the previous month, a combination of heat spikes and bouts of rain, had kept Grape X on the fast track for development.

Everything was ahead of normal growth in Niagara by about a month and two-and-a-half weeks compared to 2011.

Flowering occurs anywhere from 35 to 75 days after bud break (in this case, 37 days) depending on temperatures. At this point in the evolution, flower clusters start appearing on the tips of the young shoots. A few weeks after the initial clusters appear, the flowers start to grow in size with individ-ual flowers becoming observable.

It is here that pollination and fertilization of the grapevine takes place with the result being a grape berry. Grape vines are

pHotos: rIcK vAnsIcKle


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self-pollinating and do not need bees to help with the blessed event. During the process of fertilization, the pollen fertilizes the ovary, which produces seeds as the flower begins the transfor-mation into a grape berry, encapsulating the seed.

At that time, Prydatkewycz expected berries to set in about two to three weeks at the pace they were on. His job now was to moni-tor the vineyard, adjust the wires on the trellises to keep up with the rapid growth of the vines, to start some leaf removal to allow the sun to get through to the grapes, to keep the air moving and to make sure any sprays that were used got to the heart of the vine.

He said it was too soon to tell what kind of crop the winery could expect. Berry set would determine that. It had been an interesting ride for Grape X, but one of the major concerns was now a distant memory — the frost that wreaked havoc on many vineyards in Niagara.

The weather since then had been ideal for grape growing, with lots of heat units interspersed with moderate rain. Schmidt said he was excited to see how the rest of the vintage unfolded.

“We have enjoyed near perfect conditions (albeit early) so far,” he said. “I do expect harvest to be early this year, likely be-ginning by the end of August if this warm trend continues. Ahhh, wine growing, never a dull moment.”

the long, hot summerGrape X looked so fine in the bright sunlight of July. The tiny grapes grew at an alarming rate as they headed for bunch clo-sure, the point at which vineyard managers can no longer get inside the bunches with sprays to prevent any number of dis-eases that afflict vines.

vITIculTurIST romAN PrydATkEwycz ExAmINING THE ProGrESS oF GrAPE x

38 // April 2013

I received an excited email from winemaker Schmidt in the first week of July that prompted a visit to see my little Grape X: “Your vine is looking AMAZING. So healthy. We are now waiting for bunch closure. We are enjoying very warm dry weather, which is keeping various mildew and botrytis pres-sures in check.”

I whipped out there and snapped a few shots, but there wasn’t much new to report, other than the weather being ideal that season and that Schmidt was excited with what he’d seen thus far.

stress In the vIneyardBy late July, the relentless heat of the long, hot summer was start-ing to wear on the vineyards of Niagara. While most would assume that a prolonged heat spell would be beneficial for grape vines, it started to worry winemakers and viticulturists who were looking to the skies pleading for a good old-fashioned rainstorm.

While Grape X was in perfect health, up and down the rows you could see victims of the heat with yellowed leaves and stunt-ed growth. A combination of heat, lack of rain and the late frost had rendered some vines useless, at least for this vintage. But, thankfully, it was only a smattering throughout the vineyard.

harvest loomsBy mid-August, we were well past the midway point for the 2012 Niagara growing season as wineries turned their full at-tention to the looming, yes, looming, harvest. It wasn’t a stretch to predict some growers would be picking grapes for sparkling wine by the end of the month, with early ripening aromatics not far behind in early September.

The 2012 grape-growing season got off to a very quick start with unusually high temperatures in the early spring followed by two frost episodes that hurt some grape buds in the penin-sula, especially those without wind machines. After that, it was

smooth sailing with extremely dry and hot conditions through the summer until a brief reprieve in the second week of August with cooler, wetter weather.

The drought-like conditions were felt in most of the wine-growing areas of eastern North America, with some regions expecting half the harvest of previous years. But the hot, dry conditions meant the potential for concentrated flavours and sugars, and a reduction of pests and disease, translating into higher-quality fruit.

Schmidt was succinct in his assessment of the vintage so far when I asked him for two or three paragraphs on harvest 2012 to this point:

“Two or three paragraphs? How about two or three words? [Insert expletive here] dry. And hot. Sorry, that was four words.”

death of a grape, bIrth of a wIneIt was a picture perfect day to end the life of Grape X. On Sep-tember 22, brilliant sunshine was beaming down on the Niagara Escarpment; much like it was back on May 14 when Grape X was born. Schmidt and Prydatkewycz invited me to help handpick the last few bunches of grapes from the vine that housed Grape X for the past five months. It was largely ceremonial, as the St Urban Vineyard is mostly harvested by a mechanical harvester called the Gregoire G8. This is a tidy, efficient machine that does an excellent job picking bunches of grapes cleanly from the vines and de-stemming bunches as it goes.

I was given a quick lesson by Prydatkewycz on how to clip bunches off the vine that held Grape X.

Schmidt and his team machine-harvested about 10 tonnes of gorgeous Riesling from Field D, the final block to be harvested from the St Urban Vineyard in 2012.

He decided to vinify separately about one tonne of that, in-cluding the vine where Grape X lived and died, for a special bot-tling of Riesling with a slightly higher sugar content, between 25 and 50 grams per litre. The grapes were picked at 19.2 Brix (a measurement of sugar content) with about 10 per cent of the grapes forming botrytis fungus (this is a good thing). He left it on the lees to give the wine more texture and complexity.

It was exciting to hand-harvest the Grape X vine and carry the grapes to the winery for processing in the receiving hopper before being crushed into juice and pumped into tanks in the winery.

Grape X was sent to a small 1,000-litre tank to be finished in a style a little sweeter than the other Vineland Riesling bot-tlings. I had a chance to taste the fermented Grape X juice in early December while still in tank. That beautiful little ber-ry and all her pals were tasting mighty fine. A little sweeter, but balanced out by the natural acidity of the famed St Urban Vineyard. Schmidt said he was going to bottle Grape X — all 1,000 litres — in a special label.

I’ll be first in line to buy it when Schmidt puts it up for sale sometime this year.

RIP, Grape X. And thank you for the delicious legacy you have left behind. •

BrIAN ScHmIdT HAS A loT To BE HAPPy ABouT

pHoto: rIcK vAnsIcKle


ONE LUMP

OR TWO?AlwAys time

for teABY DUNCA N HOLM ES

we’ve all been there. Lunch was hours ago, dinner is way off in the dark of night. It’s three o’clock, and our tummies are rumbling enough to raise eyebrows. In a pinch, a chocolate bar might fix things, but the real need is for something of substance — something like the blessed bounty of afternoon tea.

Likely born of the same rumbling-tummy need in a stately Downton Abbey-esque home or thatched country cottage in Eng-land, and exported on a silver tray throughout Britain’s far-flung Empire, this sustaining pause between meals is really a meal in itself. A fine china cup of orange pekoe or Earl Grey; perhaps a flute of Champagne, offered with a slice of Victoria sponge with a cream filling and a rich and delicious icing; toasted crumpets or scones slathered with jam and clotted cream; exotic pinwheel or crustless cucumber sandwiches; cookies that will fill and fatten. And fortunately for a world that needs the comfort of it all — ex-travagances that go on and on.

As with other Brit-born social inventions, including “Elev-enses,” the equally welcomed snack break that happens an hour before lunch, afternoon tea has been copied elsewhere. But it is

40 // April 2013

the English version — even with its often-snobbish rules — that has filled the three o’clock niche, and will remain as part of the market-driven scene for as long as tummies continue to rumble, strawberries ripen, and cream is available for whipping or clotting.

As one who has been close to afternoon tea for a seven-decade lifetime, I have learned something of the rules and the lore that surround it, how it is steeped — sorry! — in tradition. I know that only water that is boiling vigorously will make a great cup of tea, ideally from loose leaves. I know that the pot must be pre-heated, that after the water goes in, the pot must be turned three times clockwise and once anti-clockwise to bring out the best of the brew. I know how unlucky it is to pour tea in the home of another. And heaven help us if we might ever pour the milk in first — a sure sign of a lack of couth or social upbringing.

My experience has been that afternoon tea is not afternoon coffee. Coffee doesn’t seem to work at three, even if it might be a good perk for the hours yet to come before dinner. And while some of those pinwheel sandwiches may have been stuffed with protein like smoked salmon, ham or egg, afternoon tea for me is not a savoury snack, but an abundance of over-the-top sweets. Leave the Scotch eggs, which combine a hard-boiled egg with a deep-fried coating of meat, to pubs and Elevenses, as you set yourself up for a wholesome meat-and-carb plough-man’s lunch an hour later.

We have a silver tea service that we trot out for afternoon tea whenever the Queen or slightly lesser royalty shows up. Otherwise it sits in the cupboard waiting to again be cleaned. Same goes for the hand-painted cups and saucers that will someday end up as heirlooms, or as “best offers” on eBay. It’s simply too terrifying to even think about using them.

In recent years, some misguided tea aficionados have encouraged the proliferation of dozens of tea tastes that between you and me seem to have moved tea into a more bubble, herbal-medicinal direction. It’s all so undesirably trendy, and certainly not the stuff that will rejuvenate us writers, the ladies of the bridge club, the book club going over Fifty Shades one more time, or the cricketers taking a tea break be-tween overs at Lords. Again, afternoon tea for me is orange pekoe, or heaven forbid, Earl Grey. But cham-omile? Green? Other colours and flavours? Sorry, say I, as I politely extend my pinkie. Not my cuppa.

LEMON TART

This is a classic French treat that you can make in the morning for afternoon tea later on. A rich lemon curd, encased in crisp pastry. Crème fraîche is an optional accompaniment. Love those options.

pastry2 cups plain flour1/2 cup butter2 tbsp icing sugar1 egg1 tsp vanilla essence

filling6 eggs, beaten1 1/2 cups caster sugar1/2 cup unsalted butter4 lemons, juice and grated rind Icing sugar for dusting

1. Preheat the oven to 400˚F. 2. Sift the flour into a bowl, add the butter and work with your fingertips until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs. Stir in the icing sugar. 3. Add the egg, vanilla essence and a scant tbsp of cold water, then work to a dough. Roll the pastry onto a floured surface and use to line a 9-inch tart tin. 4. Line with foil or greaseproof paper and fill with dried beans, rice, or baking beans if you have them. Bake for 10 minutes. 5. To make the filling, place the eggs, sugar and butter into a pan and stir over a low heat until the sugar has completely dissolved. 6. Add the lemon rind and juice and continue cooking, stirring all the time, until the lemon curd has thickened slightly. Pour the mixture into the pastry case. 7. Bake for 20 minutes, until just set. Transfer the tart to a wire rack to cool. Dust with icing sugar just before serving.


As cup-tinkling afternoon teas go, few do it bet-ter, or with a bigger following, than the Fairmont Empress in Victoria, British Columbia’s capital. In a venue of great space and Old World luxury, “the relaxing and enjoyable ritual of taking afternoon tea has been an unremitting love affair at the hotel since its opening in 1908.”

For those arriving on the scene at the height of the summer tourist season, the Empress ritual is a jaw dropper. Why would so many people gather like this for a simple cup of tea — from a menu of eight choices — and a piece of cake?

The menu notes go on: “In eighteenth-century England, tea mania swept the country. Tea was sipped by all levels of society, becoming the bever-age of choice for breakfast and after the main meal of the day. Prior to the introduction of tea in Britain, the English had two main meals, breakfast and din-ner. Breakfast consisted of ale, bread and beef, while dinner was a substantial meal at the end of the day.”

Anna Maria, the Seventh Duchess of Bedford (1788-1861), experienced a “sinking feeling” in the late afternoon. Embracing the European tea service format, she invited friends to join her for additional bread and butter sandwiches, assorted sweets and, of course, tea. This summer ritual proved so popu-lar, the Duchess continued it when she returned to London, sending cards to friends to come for “tea and a walking of fields.” The practice of inviting friends to “take tea in the afternoon” was soon ad-opted by other hostesses. A customary pattern of service emerged. As it does at the Empress.

While tea is the cup of choice for afternoon tea, conversation-inspiring glasses of steeper stuff can make the occasions more memorable. Perhaps a glass of Fino, or a richer sherry? And a flute or two of Champagne is never out of place. Lately we’ve been fancying up our bubbly with wild hibiscus flowers that come in syrup. Admire the colour of your drink, and eat the flower at the bottom of your glass. Decadent and delicious. More at Whole Foods, or www.wildhibiscus.com.

LEMON TART

JOLLY GOOD SHOW!

BANANAbread

I figured the other day, as I watched yet another trio of bananas aging quickly in the fruit bowl, that I had made this recipe hundreds of times. Maybe thousands? When I take down my Joy of Cooking, it invariably falls open to the banana bread page and aging bananas are recycled yet again into another lovely loaf. With butter, of course.

1 ¾ cups sifted all-purpose flour2 1/4 tsp double acting baking powder1/2 tsp salt

blend until creamy:⅓ cup shortening⅔ cup sugar¾ tsp. Grated lemon rind

beat in:1-2 beaten eggs1 -1 1/4 cups ripe banana pulp, about three bananas

1. Add the sifted ingredients in about three parts to the sugar mixture. Beat the batter after each addition until smooth. 2. Fold in ½ cup broken nutmeats, ¼ cup finely chopped dried apricots, raisins if you wish. 3. Place the batter in a greased bread pan. Bake the bread about an hour or until done. Cool before slicing.

42 // April 2013

raspberry almond

FRIANDS

In North America, they call these things baking powder biscuits. But they taste like the scones that I remember as a kid in Australia, so that's what I'm calling them.

2 cups sifted flour1 tbsp baking powder1/2 tsp salt

4 tbsp vegetable shortening

¾ cup milk

1. Preheat the oven to 450˚F.2. To the flour, add the baking powder and salt, and sift together. Cut in the shortening with a pastry blender until the mixture has the consistency of coarse cornmeal. 3. Stir in the milk to make a soft dough, then turn the dough out onto a lightly-floured board and knead for half a minute. Extra kneading doesn't help! 4. Roll out the dough about an inch thick. Cut into 2-inch rounds with a floured biscuit cutter, and bake on an ungreased baking sheet in a preheated oven for l2 to l5 minutes, or until the scones are browned. Serve with jam and cream, of course.

This recipe, from friends Marcia and Brian, will introduce you to a delicious little melt-in-your-mouth cake that’s full of unique flavours. You’ll need a friand baking pan — much like a muffin pan, but with oval shapes. The recipe uses lots of egg whites. The yolks? How about some mayo or hollandaise?

185 g icing sugar150 g plain flour100 g almond meal1 lemon, rind finely grated5 egg whites

180 g butter, melted, cooled150 g fresh or thawed frozen

raspberriesIcing sugar for dusting

1. Pre-heat oven to 400˚F. 2. Brush 10 125 ml friand pans with melted butter. Sift icing sugar and flour together in a large mixing bowl. 3. Stir in almond meal and lemon rind. Whisk the egg whites, by hand or machine, until frothy. Fold the whites into the almond mixture. 4. Add the melted butter and fold in until just combined. Gently fold 100 g of the raspberries into the mixture. 5. Spoon the mixture into the greased pans to 3/4 full. Divide remaining raspberries among the friands, pushing them gently into the mixture. 6. Bake in the pre-heated oven for 20 minutes or until light golden and a skewer inserted into the centre of a friand comes out clean. 7. Set aside for 5 minutes, before turning onto a wire rack to cool. 8. Dust with icing sugar. You may wish to offer whipped cream for a topping when the friands are served.

SCONES


I was exposed to so many lamingtons as a kid that I vowed as I moved on, that I would never eat another one. Accordingly, I left any old recipes that may have lingered around our South Australian home deep in their musty drawers. This one was purloined from an anthology of recipes put together some years ago by the Australian-New Zealand Association in Vancouver, a book called To Canada with Love: Good Tucker from Down Under. What are lamingtons? Bite-sized squares of sponge cake, dipped in chocolate icing, which is in turn dipped in coconut.

chocolate icing1 lb icing sugar¾ cup cocoa

1 tbsp butter1/2 cup milk

1. Sift icing sugar and cocoa into a heatproof basin, or into top half of double saucepan. Add softened butter and milk, stir with a wooden spoon and mix thoroughly. Stand over hot water; stir constantly until you’re ready to coat the cakes.

sponge cake3 eggs1/2 cup berry

sugar¾ cup self-

raising flour

1/4 cup cornstarch

1 tbsp butter3 tbsp hot

water

1. Beat eggs until light. Gradually add sugar, continue beating until mixture is thick and sugar completely dissolved. 2. Sift dry ingredients several times. Melt butter in hot water. Sift dry ingredi-ents over egg mixture, fold in lightly; then, working quickly, fold in hot water and butter. 3. Pour into lightly greased 7 x 11 inch cake tin. Bake in a 350˚F oven for about 30 minutes. Make the cake the day before cutting and icing. Thinly trim brown top and sides from cake.

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4. Cut cake into 16 even pieces. Hold each cake piece on a two-pronged fork and dip into the icing. Hold over bowl to drain off excess chocolate. 5. If icing becomes too thick too quickly, stand it over hot water while dipping. If still too thick, add a little warmed milk or water. 6. Put cakes individually into a bowl of coconut — you will need about 1 ½ cups. Sprinkle coconut evenly or gently toss in the coconut. Stand on a wire rack until completely dry. •

LAMINGTONS

44 // April 2013

Have you heard? There’s a new trend taking the food world by storm. Kim Kardashian is into it to lose weight. Miley Cyrus needs it to stay healthy. It’s the “free-from” diet.

Free from gluten, dairy, soy … you’re probably thinking free from flavour, too, right? Not so. With the right combination of in-gredients, free-from cuisine can be delicious and très gourmet. It doesn’t, however, qualify as the magic bullet of weight loss. Some of those gluten- and dairy-free breads, cakes or cookies can be downright fattening. Sorry, Kim.

For people who suffer from allergies and sensitivities to gluten and dairy, this move to the mainstream from the dark corner shelves of specialty food markets is like hitting the big time. No more scrounging around for products that can taste just awful. Foodie fantasies can now be found in pretty much any grocery store. In the mood for a home-cooked meal? Check out the blogosphere (including tidingsmag.com) for tried and true recipes. I experimented with gluten- and dairy-free cui-sine for a year for health reasons. Here’s what I learned: recipes take more time and thought than you may think you have, but the results can be truly outstanding.

hazelNuT TorTeSErvES 6One of my neighbours gave me this recipe years ago. It’s now one of my favourites. When you pull it out of the oven, the cake will be sunken and thin. You’ll think something has gone terribly wrong. Don’t worry – just trim off the edges and eat up.

4 eggs¾ cup sugar2 tbsp gluten-free all-purpose flour2 1/2 tsp baking powder1 cup hazelnuts, ground

1. Blend eggs and sugar until well mixed. Stir in flour, baking powder and ground hazelnuts. 2. Divide into two 8” baking pans, and bake at 350°F for 20 minutes.

filling1 cup whipped cream2 tbsp strong coffee1 tsp cocoa1/2 tsp vanillaSugar, to taste1 cup whipped cream (for frosting)

1. Combine 1 cup whipped cream, coffee, cocoa, vanilla and sugar. Spread between layers of cooled cake. 2. Spread whipped cream over the top and sides of cake.

… Enjoy a slice or two with a bubbly Prosecco.

livingFree

NavIgatINg a gluteN aNd daIry rIch world

by roSEmAry mANTINI


mimosa iCe iN laCy CoCoNuT CupsSErvES 6 To 8Looking for sexy? You’ve found it right here. This recipe is my go-to dessert when I need something simple, yet truly extra special.

coconut cups1 cup toasted, unsweetened, desiccated coconut*¾ cup sugarzest of 1 large orange2 tbsp plus 1 1/2 tsp all-purpose gluten-free flour6 tbsp unsalted butter, melted2 tbsp milk or milk substitute

1. Put the coconut into a bowl. Mix in the sugar, orange zest and flour. Stir in 4 tbsp of the melted butter and milk.2. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Place 1 to 1 ½ tbsp of the batter onto the baking sheet, spaced about 5 inches apart. 3. Bake in a preheated 350°F for 10 to 12 minutes, or until cookies are evenly cooked. They will have darkened to a deep brown colour. 4. Remove from the oven and let sit at least 30 seconds. With a flexible metal spatula, remove the cookie. If they begin to break apart, let them rest a bit longer. 5. Place each cookie over a small upside-down custard cup or ramekin. Gently press the cookie down and around the dish. 6. Let cool completely then lift it off. Immediately place cookies in an airtight container until ready to use.

mimosa iCeMake the ice a day or two ahead of when needed.

zest of 2 oranges1 cup fresh orange juice1/4 cup plus 2 tbsp unsweetened pineapple juice3 tbsp lemon juice1 1/4 cups dry champagne or sparkling wine¾ cups sugar syrup**Pinch of salt1 egg white

1. Place all ingredients in a bowl and stir until well blended. Pour the contents into an ice cream maker. Follow the manufacturer’s directions. 2. Scoop out all the ice and place in the freezer until firm. If you don’t happen to own an ice cream maker, just pour the juice mixture into a shallow pan.3. Place in the freezer, stirring frequently until the mixture is firm.

TomaTo pie wiTh poleNTa CrusTSErvES 6Biting into sweet roasted vegetables surrounded by creamy polenta is like unlocking a chest full of treasure.

fillingolive oil3 tomatoes, sliced thickly1 zucchini, sliced diagonally1 onion, sliced thicklyThyme and parsley1/4 cup parmesan cheese

crust6 cups water1 1/2 cups cornmeal2 tsp salt1/4 cup butter1/2 cup parmesan cheese

1. Arrange vegetable slices on a baking sheet. Brush with olive oil. 2. Sprinkle salt and pepper over the vegetables. Broil 5 to 8 minutes per side, or until vegetables are golden brown. Set aside. 3. Lightly oil a square cake pan. Sprinkle bottom and sides with cornmeal.4. Bring salted water to a boil. Slowly pour cornmeal into the boiling water, stirring constantly. 5. Reduce heat to low, and cook for 20 to 30 minutes, stirring constantly. When the polenta has thickened, remove from heat and stir in butter and cheese. 6. Spread hot polenta over bottom and up the sides of the cake pan to form a ½-inch thick layer. Sprinkle some parsley and thyme over the polenta. 7. Layer ½ of the vegetables over the bottom and along the sides of the polenta. Spread remaining polenta over top of the vegetables. 8. Arrange remaining vegetables on top with a grind or two of pepper. 9. Bake, uncovered, at 375°F for 15 minutes, or until puffed and golden. Add parmesan cheese and parsley to taste.

… Slice into wedges and serve with a chilled glass of Sauvignon Blanc.

46 // April 2013

to servePlace each coconut cup on its own plate. Fill the cup with the mimosa ice. Add a small sprig of mint as garnish.* To toast desiccated coconut, bake in a 325°F oven for 4 to 6 minutes. Check and stir frequently because coconut will burn easily.** To make sugar syrup, heat 3/4 cup sugar and 3/4 cup water. Simmer for 3 minutes, or until sugar has completely dissolved. Let cool.

… A glass of sparkling wine goes fabulously well with this decadent iced dessert.

ChardoNNay CraCkersThis recipe comes courtesy of Elana Amsterdam of elanaspantry.com. Spending years in the kitchen can certainly bring the best out in people. Elana’s delicious treats catering to a variety of restricted diets have landed her a book deal in 2009. Look for the Gluten Free almond Flour cookbook at your local bookseller or on Elana’s website.

1 1/2 cups blanched almond flour2 tbsp chardonnay grapeseed flour1/2 tsp celtic sea salt1/4 cup olive oil1 egg

1. In a large bowl, combine dry ingredients.2. Add olive oil and egg into dry ingredients.

3. Roll out dough to ¼-inch thickness between 2 pieces of parchment paper. Using a butter knife or a pizza cutter, cut dough into 2-inch squares or any other interesting shapes. Transfer to a parchment-lined cookie sheet.4. Bake at 350°F for 8 to 9 minutes, until just a tad browned on the edges.

liNzer hearTsmAkES 24 cookIESHere’s another gem by Elana. Agave nectar is sweeter than white sugar and is harvested from agave plants — the same ones that give us tequila!

2 1/2 cups blanched almond flour1/2 tsp celtic sea salt1/2 cup grapeseed oil1/4 cup agave nectar1 tbsp vanilla extract1 cup raspberry jam

1. In a large bowl, combine almond flour and salt.2. In a smaller bowl, combine grapeseed oil, agave and vanilla. Stir wet ingredients into dry. Chill dough in freezer for 30 minutes.3. Between 2 pieces of parchment paper, roll out dough ¼ to 1/8 inch thick. Use a cookie cutter to cut out 2 hearts of the same size. 4. Take a smaller heart cookie cutter to cut out the centre of one of the hearts. Press your thumb into the solid heart to make an indentation, then fill this spot with jam. Place the hollow heart on top of the jam-covered heart.5. Bake hearts at 350°F on a parchment-lined baking sheet for 5 to 7 minutes until brown around the edges.

paleo bread Finding a decent loaf of bread has to be one of the most challenging aspects of living a gluten-free life. Luckily, Elana has tested and re-tested this recipe until perfect.

2 cups blanched almond flour2 tbsp coconut flour1/4 cup golden flaxseed meal1/4 tsp celtic sea salt1/2 tsp baking soda5 eggs1 tbsp coconut oil1 tbsp honey1 tbsp apple cider vinegar

1. Place almond flour, coconut flour, flax, salt and baking soda in a food processor. Pulse ingredients together.2. Pulse in eggs, oil, honey and vinegar.3. Pour batter into a greased 7.5 x 3.5 inch Magic Line Loaf Pan. Bake at 350°F for 30 minutes. Cool and serve. •


the swiss way\\ musT Try By GILLeS BOIS

If someone says banks and watches, you will think of Swit-zerland. The country may also make you think of mountains or maybe even cheese. But wine? Probably not. You may even ask, “Who drinks Swiss wine, anyway?” Well, the Swiss do. And they drink a lot of it, which is why we don’t — since they export very lit-tle of an already-small production. And this isn’t likely to change, since the possibilities for expansion are constrained by terrain and high costs. The country is worth exploring nonetheless.

The vineyards are scattered around the country in a myriad of expensively grown small or tiny plots, near a lake or on a river bank. The main area is Valais with 5,250 ha of close to 60 per cent Pinot Noir and Gamay spread along the Rhône Valley (the same river as in France, upstream from Lake Geneva). Second is the Vaud, along the north shore of Lake Geneva, with 3,820 ha (70 per cent of emblematic Chasselas, a white variety also known as Fendant). Near the west tip of the lake is the so-called Geneva vineyard, surrounding the city with 1,340 ha of vines, half red and half white. Next are two areas of about 1,000 ha each: Tessin or Ticino, on the Italian side of the Alps where Merlot rules, and the Three Lakes region (Neuchâtel, Lac de Bi-enne and Vully) in the northwest part of the country. Add a few even-smaller areas and the total for the country barely exceeds 15,000 ha — less than one-fifth of France’s Rhône Valley.

Today the wine produced slightly favours reds; historically it was whites. Pinot Noir, Gamay and Merlot largely dominate with only pockets of unique and intriguing Swiss-made crossings like Gamaret, Garanoir, Cornalin and Humagne Rouge. These are, not surprisingly, cool-climate varieties, but microclimates in the Valais allow for confidential amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon.

White varieties are even more homogeneous, with Chas-selas taking up three-quarters of the vines planted. Homoge-neous does not mean uniform, as the grape is very sensitive to the soil it grows on, taking on varying nuances of flowers, citrus, fruits and mineral characteristics. The wines are often light and fresh, but they can gain in body and weight in some

areas, namely Lavaux in the Vaud. Of the other white varieties, Petite Arvine deserves some attention. Originating from the Valais, it is rarely found elsewhere, which is too bad because its bold acidity and high extract can make racy wines that remain elegant and harmonious.

RouVinez FendAnt de SieRRe 2010, VAlAiS ($19.20)Fresh and delicate; citrusy nose. light body, simple flavours; tiny co2 bubbles add to the freshness. nice and easy drinking.

RouVinez ChâteAu liChten Petite ARVine 2011, VAlAiS ($35)very pale, green reflections. the nose is rich and elegant, with a slight vegetal component. Fresh, very dry; a biting acidity is present throughout, but it is balanced by the fatness of the middle palate. expansive finish.

ChARleS BonVin Petite ARVine noBle CéPAge 2011, VAlAiS ($34)Powerful nose; very aromatic, ripe fruits, lanolin. vivid acidity but good intensity for a nicely balanced mouthfeel. Finish is intense and very long. impressive.

RouVinez Pinot noiR de SieRRe 2010, VAlAiS ($22)cherry red. red fruits and fruit stones. balance is slightly on the acid side; delicate, fruity taste, shy tannins. Quite typical of a good-quality cool-climate Pinot.

ChARleS BonVin CloS du ChâteAu dôle 2010, VAlAiS ($25)dôle is the name of a blend made from Pinot noir, Merlot and other red grapes. Garnet colour. complex and aromatic nose where Merlot is more discernible. round and supple, the Pinot brings liveliness to the mouthfeel. disconcerting at first, but interesting. •

48 // April 2013

It’s 6:30 am. You reach for the radio, smack the snooze button, crawl out of bed, shower, pull on pants and stumble painfully out the door, still half asleep. At your go-to java joint down the street, the barista smiles as you amble in. “Hi,” she says, “large dark to go, right?” “Right,” you mumble inaudibly. You’re on automatic and don’t give your usual order another thought. Through your morning mind-fog, you spot other options to kick start your commute such as Ethiopian Yirgachefe, with aromas of strawberry, violet, and jasmine, and Costa Rican Terrazu, smelling faintly of hazelnuts and white grape with a lingering, light cocoa finish. Your keen olfactory sense says you’re missing out on something special. There’s much more to coffee than strong, medium or mild, espresso versus drip, and dark or light roast.

Coffee involves over 850 volatile aromatic compounds. Like wine, coffee aromas are influenced by many factors including variety, soil, growing region, processing method, storage, and blending. Roasting and freshness also contribute to coffee taste. According to Sense Appeal Coffee Roasters co-owner Peter Ad-amo, coffee is “four times more complex than wine.” Adamo, a sommelier by trade, acknowledges, “Smelling and tasting wine is an absolute cinch compared to coffee.” As Vida Radova-novic, president of the Canadian Barista and Coffee Academy explains, “Coffee is a similar agricultural product to wine with many varieties and taste profiles, and is similarly tasted and cupped as wine would be by wine tasters. Coffee is more com-plicated than people think.” So why do we know so little about our main morning pick-me-up?

The number one beverage in Canada — after non-bottled wa-ter — and the second most traded commodity, coffee has been more about volume than quality. According to Phil Robertson,

co-owner of Phil and Sebastian Coffee Roasters in Calgary, “Cof-fee hasn’t been seen as a specialty item but as a commodity so quality issues haven’t even been on the radar.” Adamo explains that coffee is a complex beverage, commoditized to appeal to the mass market. “You think it’s supposed to taste like the large chains say it tastes. But that’s not it at all. It’s very specific based on variety, growing conditions and country,” he says. Varietals can be differentiated by aroma and mouthfeel. Even within a re-gion, the same coffee can have different characteristics. Robert-son sees the evolution of coffee as a natural refinement similar to trends in food. The average java junky may be satisfied with any hit of caffeine, but the new coffee connoisseur demands a full flavoured brew, properly prepared, with varied tasting notes and profiles, and is curious about where the bean originated.

To meet the demand, roasters are reaching across conti-nents, forging relationships with growers to source quality cof-fee. Through “direct trade,” roasters negotiate a fair price with farmers and also influence how coffee is cultivated, picked, dried and transported.

Working directly with farmers also enhances coffee trace-ability, the ability to track the steps through the coffee chain from cherry to cup. Robertson notes that, “Traceability is already what’s occurred in wine. If you go to a wine store now, you’ll buy a bottle of wine from France, from a specific region, the more specific the region, the better the quality of wine. I think that coffee is simply catching up to that.”

Robertson and partner Sebastian Sztabzyb aim to improve cup quality by purchasing near perfect coffee cherry through direct trade and stabilizing a “fairly fragile agricultural prod-uct” for transport to Canada. As Sztabzyb explains, “Drying is important in stabilizing the coffee before shipping.” According

roastby mErlE roSENSTEIN


to Sztabzyb, drying coffee is heavily misunderstood and occurs either too quickly, unevenly or too slowly, affecting shelf life. “If you found the best coffee in Guatemala and then it arrives in Calgary and it’s a shadow of itself, it doesn’t matter how good it was in Guatemala, because ultimately you are roasting it or selling it in Calgary,” he says.

Not only are Robertson and Sztabzyb collaborating with coffee farmers in different countries, they are also commu-nicating directly with coffee pickers. The company has been sourcing coffee from Costa Rican farmer Manuel “Macho” Arce in the Llano Bonito de Naranjo sub region of the West Valley for three harvests. The newly launched Proyecto Recolección, or the picking project, seeks to enhance coffee quality by changing the picking paradigm employed in Costa Rica for generations. Even though as Sztabzyb says, Costa Rica maintains good pick-ing practices, the project would raise the bar to excellent. In Costa Rica, coffee cherry is paid by volume and the cajuela or basket is the unit of payment. The cajuela may contain cher-ries in different stages of ripeness with riper cherries, those in shades of dark crimson, being sweeter.

As part of Proyecto Recolección, pickers would fill fewer ca-juelas per day focusing on the riper cherries, but would be paid twice as much. A check of each cajuela by Arce will ensure near perfect picking. Pickers can choose whether or not to participate in the project, or to maintain regular picking practices.

To explain the focus on fully ripe, dark crimson cherries, Sztabzyb had pickers sample a perfectly ripe cherry and a partially ripe cherry. Pickers, who had likely not tasted coffee cherry before, were surprised at the difference in sweetness. Sztabzyb was satisfied that he had gotten his point across to the pickers. As he says, “It was a very rare and magical moment in which I felt that, for the first time in my career, I had connected with the pickers.” He was able to convey that the level of sweet-ness in the cherry makes a real difference in the cup. At the end of the harvest, Sztabzyb will explore if the picking protocol can be expanded to other farms.

To make the most of careful picking, attention must be given to the washing and drying processes. The coffee cherry from Proyecto Recolección will receive special treatment at the Hel-sar de Zarcero mill, run by Ricardo Perez. In addition to the usual washing process, the washed cherry will be soaked for 12 to 16 hours to remove mucilage from the bean and make drying more uniform. Instead of the usual four or five day process on cement patios, followed by 36 to 48 hours in a guardiola (me-chanical dryer), the mill will use partially shaded raised beds for a period of 12 to 15 days.

Like Phil and Sebastian, Te Aro Coffee Roasters in Toronto has been easing into the direct sourcing model over the last couple of years, visiting farms in Guatemala, Costa Rica and

El Salvador, cupping coffee, speaking directly with producers and planting the seeds of long term relationships. According to roaster Chris Noseworthy, “These sorts of relationships take a lot of effort, time and capital to bear fruit, but we feel it is a necessary step for us.”

The benefits of traceability have filtered down to baristas, coffee’s artisans, allowing them to experiment with different varietals to create new and exciting combinations. Jeremy Ho, winner of the Canadian National Barista Championships last September enjoys conveying the stories behind the coffees to customers and sharing what makes them unique. As Ho says, “The more I learn about coffee the more I realize that I don’t know.” Competitors at the Barista Championships prepare a standard set of three drinks served to four judges, an espresso, a cappuccino and a signature drink, all within 15 minutes. Sea-soned baristas unite the three drinks with a central concept, with the signature drink reflecting this concept. Ho’s presentation was about traceability of coffee in Ethiopia, the variety of coffee that drew him to the industry initially.

Ho explains that the Commodity Exchange, implemented in Ethiopia in 2008, improved the marketplace for small farmers, but limited traceability by grouping beans by region and grade rather than by farm and mill. His signature drink represented the problems with traceability in Ethiopia and the enormous untapped potential, while celebrating the signature peach and citrus flavours of the region. “Traceability allows us to source the same coffee again because we know which lots it came from, when it was harvested, and how it was processed, and allows us to make improvements to coffee over time,” says Ho. Documen-tation on the characteristics of a particular coffee can be traced down to the lot. According to Ho, a ‘lot’ of coffee can refer to “a specific geographic location where they grow a specific variety or a collection of varieties harvested on one day.”

Barista Georgia Henry with Dark Horse Espresso Bar in To-ronto says that traceability is a “good investment for roasters be-cause if they get a good coffee from a region and they don’t invest anything in it, the likelihood of them getting it again is pretty low, but if they invest in the knowledge and technology and paying the workers better to make them care more about the coffee and provide education, then they get a better product out of that.” Henry placed fourth nationally in the Canadian Barista Cham-pionships and has a tall trophy to show for it. She believes that a great cup of coffee comes from choosing beans that are fresh but not too fresh, sourced from a quality farm, roasted to bring out the best accents in that bean, clean equipment and the right grind size with the right coffee to water ratio at the right tem-perature enjoyed with the attention that it deserves.

So next time you crave a cup of joe, switch it up and ask for a Kenyan SL28 or Columbian Bourbon. Your palate will be very pleased. •

50 // April 2013

the mav notes\\

89 Penfolds thomas hyland Shiraz 2010, Adelaide, South Australia ($23.99)Developed red berry fruit, delicate background spice and a whiff of fine oak on the nose with robust raspberry and blackberry flavours on the palate. Solidly structured, with ripe blackberry resurgent on the well-integrated and deftly oaked finish. (SW)

89 Astrolabe Voyage Sauvignon Blanc 2011, Marlborough, new zealand ($24)The in-your-face aromatics signal its Marlborough origins, along with characteristic gooseberry, elderflower and lemon-and-lime zestiness on both nose and palate. The medium-body weight and rich texture, balanced by lip-smacking acidity, lead to a mineral finish. Delightful with a salad course. (HH)

94 Fonseca Vintage Port 2009,Portugal ($100)Big, rich and full-bodied, the 2009 Fonseca possesses a saturated colour and a bouquet of crème de cassis, plums, raisins, spice, violets, dark cherries and earth. There is a concentrated palate, superb tannic structure and a long finish, which equates to 40-plus years of longevity. (ES)

90 gloria Ferrer Sonoma Brut nV, Carneros, united States ($27)This non-vintage sparkler from the cool Sonoma side of Carneros in California is attractive for its leesy-yeasty, baked bread, pear, roasted almonds and bright lime-apple-citrus notes on the nose. The blend is Pinot Noir and Chardonnay made in the Méthode Champenoise and straddles the line between a zippy, zesty fresh citrus offering on the nose and a warm apple tart, poached pear and toasty vanilla sparkler in the mouth. Not as fresh as some, but still a delicious bubbly with a generous mousse that feels good going down the hatch. (RV)

90 StoneboAt piNoT gris 2011, okAnA-gAn ($19)boldly aromatic from the get-go, bursting with ample peach and honeysuckle on the nose. the round, creamy texture resulted from 20% barrel fermenta-tion in old oak barrels, bal-anced well by firm acidity and lush stone fruits and citrus. Finishes with re-freshing minerality. hard to have one last sip. (hh)

92 creeKside estate winery ShIrAz ICewINe 2008, niagara ($64.95)only one barrel (a new american barrel, that is) of this delicious icewine was made. it starts off with toast, spice, pomegranate, raspberry, cranberry and pepper. then, when it hits the palate, it ex-plodes, coating the taste buds with added nuances of cocoa, vanilla, spice and blueberry on the long finale. Pair with a slice of a flourless chocolate cake and revel in the harmony. (es)

85 eCheVerrIA CASA NueVA unwooded chardonnay 2010, CurICO, ChILe ($9.92)clear, pale lemon-pulp yel-low. nose has good char-donnay typicity, with apple aromas and butter/bee’s wax from the malolactic fermentation. Medium-bod-ied and nicely balanced, it shows pineapple and mild pear custard flavours. ready to drink. (rl)*


a gooseberry bush\\ maTTer of TasTe By SheILA SwerLING-PurITT

I look longingly for Mother Nature’s har-binger of spring, the tiny blue scillas that blanket the dark earth. Not only are they easy on the eye, they lift my spirits. They’re my cue to look forward to the rest of spring’s bounty — asparagus, fiddleheads, fish — I’d go on but I’d just get hungry.

When it comes to a perfect wine for spring, there’s no contest … nothing tastes more like spring than Sauvignon Blanc. This varietal is famous as a com-ponent of the dessert wines of Sauternes and Barsac in Bordeaux, a partner in dry Graves, and as a sole performer in the snappy dry whites of Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé in the Loire Valley. It’s also grown in pretty much every wine region on earth, usually for dry wine.

Sauvignon Blanc has a distinct taste profile which has been described as “cat’s pee on a gooseberry bush.” Typi-cal flavours include citrus, melon, pear, lemongrass, herbs, asparagus, freshly cut grass and fig. In cooler climates the grape tastes of grass, weeds and hay with gooseberry, grapefruit and lemon fruit flavours. These wines are crisp and

fresh in the mouth with acidity focus-ing the flavours. Warm vineyards yield wild green bean, asparagus and tropical fruit (which is based on higher levels of thiols), fuller textures and softer acidity. One key difference is pyrazine, the class of chemical secreted by ladybugs, which is responsible for the rancid peanut-butter aroma and flavour. In cool-grown Sauvignon Blanc we perceive pleasantly pungent mineral and weedy notes. Hot sites cook the pyrazines out of the grapes, reducing the pungency of wine made from them.

Chalk/marl soils push these vines towards richness and complexity. More compact chalk soils impart finesse and perfume to the wines. When grown in gravelly soils it tastes spicy, floral and min-eral. These different flavour profiles result from the different chemicals produced by Sauvignon Blanc in the different soils.

We tend to enjoy wines whose flavours and textures either echo or contrast with our food. Sauvignon Blanc is perfect with fish (including sushi) and goat cheese. It’s not so wonderful with

blue-veined or triple-cream cheeses. The freshness, which cleanses the palate as well as focusing flavours, fades over time, so drink your dry Sauvignon Blanc wines young. (Although, some Graves can age for over a decade.)

Cloudy BAy SAuVignon BlAnC 2012, MARlBoRough, new zeAlAnd ($30)the palate is succulent. delivers ripe citrus flavours with an edge of minerality; extremely well balanced.

Mud houSe SAuVignon BlAnC 2011, MARlBoRough, new zeAlAnd ($18.50)this pale straw-coloured wine focuses the palate on its crisp grapefruit acidity and tropical flavours.

Colio eStAte CeV SAuVignon BlAnC 2011, lAke eRie noRth ShoRe, ontARio ($15.35)the palate is reminiscent of melon and tropical fruit and also has a slight herba-ceous quality to round out the flavours. •

52 // April 2013

prime donne del vino\\ daviNe By GurVINDer BhATIA

Italy’s “woman of wine” may be soft-spoken, but make no mistake, people take note when Donatella Cinelli Colombini speaks. Born into a family synonymous with Brunello and the history of Montalcino, Donatella has become one of the world’s most respected, influential and progressive wine producers while staying true to tradition.

After 14 years of working with her family’s estate (Fattoria dei Barbi), Donatella, in 1998, established two of her own Tuscan properties: Fattoria del Colle in Trequanda (an estate that seren-dipitously was found to have been owned by the family as far back as the 16th century) and Casato Prime Donne in Montalcino.

Her success in a relatively short period of time (in 2003 she was named best Italian Wine Producer by the Italian Asso-ciation of Sommeliers — the first woman producer to receive the award) is a testament to her vision, spirit, passion and desire to produce wines that reflect the region and to making wine more accessible to the consumer without compromising quality. And she is a tireless advocate of furthering opportuni-ties for women in the wine industry.

Casato Prime Donne is staffed entirely by women, the first winery in Italy to only employ women. Donatella relates the story of contacting a local school of oenology when searching for a winemaker. She was told that there were no candidates available as all had already accepted positions with other wineries. When she specifically inquired about women, the school’s director re-sponded along the lines of, “Oh, we have plenty of them available.”

Perhaps this was the catalyst that lead Donatella to not only staff the winery solely with “women who love great wines and know how to make them” but create a special Brunello called “Prime Donne.” Each year, Donatella, to-gether with a panel of expert female tasters, decides on the final blend. English Master of Wine Maureen Ashley, Italian-American wine public relations specialist Marina Thompson, German wine shop owner Astrid Schwarz, and one of Italy’s most respected somm eliers, Daniela Scrobogna, participate on the panel. 2006 saw winemaker and researcher Valérie Lavigne of the University of Bordeaux first participate on the panel. In 2010, Valerie joined Donatella’s team and, with cellar master Barbara Magnani, oversees the wine production at both estates.

I recently had the opportunity to taste multiple vintages of Brunello Prime Donne with Donatella Cinelli Colombini at an Amici dell’ Enotria Society event in Alberta. All the wines came from the Amici dell’ Enotria’s cellar.

DONATeLLA CINeLLI COLOMBINI BruNeLLO DI MONTALCINO ‘PrIMe DONNe’ 1997 DOCG, TuSCANy ($80)Elegant and layered, with a touch of leather, spice, earth, tar and mushrooms and a dry, dusty character; still some red fruit, soft tannins and fresh acidity. The wine came from the family estate.


DONATeLLA CINeLLI COLOMBINI BruNeLLO DI MONTALCINO ‘PrIMe DONNe’ 1998 DOCG, TuSCANy ($80)The first vintage from Donatella’s estate, the wine still shows lots of bright, fresh fruit with cherry, plum hints of tobacco and an intriguing savoury quality. Multi-dimensional and layered, with velvety tannins and hints of spice; still extremely fresh.

DONATeLLA CINeLLI COLOMBINI BruNeLLO DI MONTALCINO ‘PrIMe DONNe’ 1999 DOCG, TuSCANy ($80)Still so young and fresh, with an abundance of blackberry and cherry fruit. Full-bodied, with firm, grippy tannins, a multitude of layers, amazing balance. Complex and dense with a purity of fruit, hint of earthiness and wonderful fresh acidity on the finish. Just a baby and will continue to age well over the next 5 to 8 years.

DONATeLLA CINeLLI COLOMBINI BruNeLLO DI MONTALCINO ‘PrIMe DONNe’ 2003 DOCG, TuSCANy ($80)2003 was an extremely hot vintage, and so many producers experienced grapes that quite literally scorched on the vines, which translated to wines that possessed an unpleasant baked character. Fortunately, Donatella’s vineyards were in a part of the valley that did not suffer the heat to quite the same extent, and it is evident in the wine. Not as fresh as the 1999, the wine shows mature fruit, soft tannins, and a touch of earthiness and leather, nice balance and a lingering finish. The wine doesn’t have too many years left in it, but it was definitely one of the stars of the vintage.

DONATeLLA CINeLLI COLOMBINI BruNeLLO DI MONTALCINO ‘PrIMe DONNe’ 2004 DOCG, TuSCANy ($80)Elegant, warm, rich and spicy, with lovely richness and aromatics, fresh and earthy with spiciness and some sweet cherry fruit, great complexity and length with firm, grippy tannins and a long, warm finish. Perfect for roast meats.

DONATeLLA CINeLLI COLOMBINI BruNeLLO DI MONTALCINO ‘PrIMe DONNe’ 2007 DOCG, TuSCANy ($80)A stunning, youthful wine, so balanced and so elegantly structured with an aromatically rich, complex nose, an abundance of red fruits with spice, fresh earth and herbs, big well-integrated tannins, amazing density and intriguing complexity. A powerful, fresh wine with immense drinkability, never-ending finish and the ability to age for the next 15 years. •

lE doNNE: vIolANTE GArdINI, dAuGHTEr; doNATEllA cINEllI colomBINI, owNEr; vAlérIE lAvIGNE, coNSulTANT wINE-mAkEr; ANToNEllA PulIGHEddu; AlESSIA BIANcHI; dEBorA TIEzzI; BArBArA mAGNANI, cEllAr mASTEr; mArGHErITA dAvITTI

54 // April 2013

//the food notes

92 hardys hRB d641 Shiraz 2007, Australia ($36)A blend of McLaren Vale and Clare Valley fruit, this is a finely toned and complex Shiraz with bold aromatics of smoky blackberry, blueberry, kirsch, liquorice, eucalypt and cracked peppercorns. The juicy black fruits on the palate are joined by tar, liquorice, sweet oak spice, mint and pepper notes that are carried on a bed of fine tannins through a long finish. Did someone say lamb? (RV)

90 Peller estates Signature Series Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, niagara-on-the-lake ($40)Only 24 barrels were selected for this premium bottling. Marzipan, chocolate-covered coffee bean, spice, cassis, dark cherries and plums are all found in this youthful and tannic wine. Hold until 2014 and then drink until 2020, preferably with some prime rib. (ES)

95 Cave Vinicole de hunawihr gewürztraminer Vendanges tardives 2005, Alsace, France ($24.83)Clear, deep brass. The aromas are not bold, but distinctly Sauternes-like, with caramel and spice. Viscous, grapey with apricot and rose-petal flavours, and thankfully the sweetness does not overpower as the finish lingers and lingers. This is a rare and memorable experience. Savour on its own, or with pears poached in white wine with cardamom and saffron and a drizzle of caramel. (RL)*

90 wilhelm walch gewürztraminer 2011, Alto Adige, italy ($17.17)Clear, tawny gold. Fascinating, complex nose of peaches, bananas, guava, roses and a bit of Gewürz (spiciness). Dry, crisp and full-bodied, tasting of juicy tart apples, lemon, and a drop of rosewater. Respectably long finish. If you are looking for a white wine with your next roast turkey, this goes very well with a rich spicy stuffing. (RL)*

94 ChâTeAu DeS ChArMeS sav-agnin icewine st david’s bench vineyard 2009, NIAGArA ($75)savagnin is a rare vinifera from the Jura region in northeastern France. in ontario, only a few wineries actually produce wine from the varietal, and cdc is the only one to make icewine with it … and what an icewine it is! Full-bodied and superbly concentrated, the citrus, stone fruit, honey and tropical nuances are all supported by brisk acidity, ensuring a decade of life ahead. this is a singular stickie, and one that must be tasted if you are a dessert-wine lover! (es)

89 Tawse growerS blend Pinot 2010, Niagara ($31.95)yup, another great red from tawse! this Pinot possesses a medium ruby colour with complex aromas of cherry, plum, raspberry, spice, barnyard, vanilla and smoke. supple tan-nins, medium acidity and a lengthy aftertaste make for a great pairing with duck confit or braised short ribs. (es)

90 dopFF and irion PINOT GrIS GrAND Cru VOr-BOurG 2009, alsace, France ($18)this Grand cru Gris offers up pretty good value with lovely honey-peach, apricot, nutmeg spice, white flowers, hazelnuts and beeswax on the nose. it’s quite thick and rich on the palate with bold marzipan, honeycomb, ginger and nutmeg in an off-dry style that will age beautifully for 5 or more years. can pair with white fish, duck pou-tine or even chicken in light sauces. delish! (rv)

tidingsmag.com \\ 55+ Search through a wide range of wine-friendly recipes on tidingsmag.com

from italy, with love\\ bouqueT garNi By NANCy JOhNSON

my cousin luisa came over from Italy with her parents when she was just five years old. At the time, I was nine, a rambunc-tious Catholic schoolgirl, jumping for joy over the imminent arrival of this exotic Italian cousin.

Two days before Luisa’s boat pulled into port, calamity struck: all four of us Lucarelli kids came down with chicken pox. I was devastated, and, I might add, hideous. Certain Luisa would take one look at my blotchy face and run screaming back to Italy, I resigned myself to the fact that it might be weeks, months, maybe even years before the spots cleared and I could safely shake my cousin’s hand while uttering the well-practised phrase: Come sta?

As it turned out, Luisa had already had chicken pox so the grand ceremony took place as planned. When she walked through the door, a tiny, serious-faced kindergartener with short-cropped hair and a fashionable wool coat, I loved her immediately. We became fast friends. I introduced her to everything she needed to know: The Flintstones, Ginny dolls and hot-fudge sundaes.

One day Luisa showed me a picture of herself on the boat as it left Italy. I was surprised to see that she was frowning in the picture, perhaps even crying. Why, I asked her, would you be so sad on such a great adventure? Luisa explained it had been hard to leave her friends, her home and her country. At nine, I had never thought about such ponderous issues. And I was surprised that, at five, Luisa had. Something changed for me that day. If I had to pinpoint the moment I began to grow up, the catalyst that launched my giddy little self towards the adult I eventually became, it was the day I came to understand Luisa’s brave face as she left Italy behind.

Although Luisa lives 3,000 miles from me, we talk often and share family news, recipes and many laughs.

iTaliaN-sTyle arTiChokesSErvES 6Artichokes become crispy and brown when cooked slowly in an oil bath. Slightly flatten the artichokes as they cook to help them grow tender. Take your time; the flavours bloom as the artichokes brown. Have a glass of wine and keep a close eye on the proceedings.

12 baby artichokes Juice of 2 lemons 2 cups olive oil Grated Pecorino romano cheese, for garnish

1. With scissors, snip off the sharp points on the outer leaves of each artichoke. Cut the stems evenly so that the artichokes will stand upright in the pan. Slice off the top of each arti-choke, giving it a flat top. 2. In a bowl, combine the artichokes and juice from the lemons. Cover with ice water and refrigerate for 2 hours. Drain and pat dry. 3. In a large skillet, over medium heat, warm the olive oil. Add the artichokes, stem side up. Cook until tender, turning the artichokes to brown on all sides. 4. Once browned, cook for another 10 minutes. To crisp the artichokes, carefully sprinkle a little water over them. Continue cooking for 2 minutes.

… Serve with Pecorino Romano and a light Riesling.

luISA wITH HEr PArENTS ITAlo ANd mArIA

56 // April 2013

salTimboCCa alla romaNaSErvES 4Long before I knew this dish was called “Saltimbocca,” which means “jump in the mouth,” I sampled it at my grandparents’ table. It was usually prepared by my Grandpa Lucarelli, a former cook in the Italian army, who seemed happiest at the stove or after dinner, when he sang Italian songs with his paesans over juice glasses filled with strong homemade wine.

8 sage leaves8 slices prosciutto8 thin veal cutlets4 tbsp butter, divided1/2 cup dry white wine

1. Preheat oven to 300˚F.2. Place a sage leaf and a slice of prosciutto on one side of each veal cutlet. Secure with a toothpick. Season each cutlet with salt and pepper. 3. In a large skillet, heat 2 tablespoons butter over medium high heat. Sauté cutlets 2 minutes per side. Remove and keep warm in oven. 4. Deglaze skillet with wine, stirring up browned bits with a wooden spoon. Whisk in remaining 2 tbsp butter and return cutlets to pan. Heat through.

… Excellent with a Pinot Grigio.

luisa’s bosCaiolaSErvES 4Boscaiola (pronounced Bosca-YO-la) means “from the forest.” It’s made with items Little Red Riding Hood might have found in the woods, such as garlic, porcini mushrooms and pine nuts. For those who prefer a meatier version, add Italian sau-sage meat. When a recipe calls for canned tomatoes, I always reach for certified San Marzano tomatoes. They’re a little more expensive but well worth the splurge. The measurements below are just a guide. Use more or less of any ingredient depending on your preference.

2 packages dried porcini mushrooms1 large can San marzano tomatoes3 cups sliced cremini mushrooms4 large cloves garlic, pressed and chopped1/4 cup pine nuts1 1/2 cups black or green pitted olives, chopped1 cup dry white wine1 small can tomato paste1/4 cup liquid from porcini mushrooms450 g fettuccine, cooked

1. In large bowl, cover porcini mushrooms with boiling water. Steep for 30 minutes. 2. Lift porcini out of water; be careful not to disturb the grit that has drifted to the bottom of the bowl. 3. Reserve ¼ cup of the liquid. If desired, pour the reserved liquid through a cheesecloth-lined strainer to remove any grit. 4. Pat porcini dry and chop. 5. Process tomatoes in food processor until puréed. 6. In a large skillet in hot olive oil over medium-high heat, sauté porcini and cremini mushrooms until softened. 7. Add garlic, pine nuts and olives. Cook 2 minutes or until garlic is softened and pine nuts are lightly toasted. 8. Add wine and cook for 2 minutes, scraping up browned bits with a wooden spoon. Stir in tomato paste. Cook 1 minute. 9. Add tomato puree and reserved porcini liquid. Bring to a boil, lower heat and simmer uncovered 15 minutes. If sauce is too thick, add a little wine or water. Serve over fettuccine.

… Serve with a Valpolicella.


pasTa graTe’SErvES 4 To 6Although this dish originated in Luisa’s Italian kitchen, she creates it using Dubliner cheese, a fine Irish cheese with flavours of cheddar, Swiss and Parmesan. If you can’t find Dubliner cheese, use sharp cheddar. When Luisa’s boys were little, they called this dish Italian Mac ’n’ Cheese and it is, indeed, a comforting gratin for windy March evenings. For a delicious variation, add cubed ham or tender artichoke hearts.

1/4 cup butter2 tbsp flour2 1/2 cups milkSalt, pepper and nutmeg to taste450 g ziti or penne, slightly undercooked1 cup cubed fresh mozzarella1/2 cup grated dubliner or sharp cheddar cheeseParmesan cheese1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheeseButter and dried bread crumbs for pan

1. Preheat oven to 350˚F.2. In a large saucepan, melt butter. Stir in the flour and cook 1 minute, whisking constantly. Add milk, salt, pepper and nutmeg. Cook until thickened. 3. Remove ½ cup of the sauce and set aside. Gently fold the pasta into the remaining sauce. Stir in the mozzarella, Dubliner and Parmesan cheeses. 4. Butter the bottom and sides of a 9 x 13 baking pan. Sprinkle bottom and sides with bread crumbs. Pour pasta mixture into pan, smoothing with a spatula. Pour the reserved ½ cup of sauce over the top, smoothing to cover the pasta. Bake until golden and bubbly, about 45 minutes.

… A buttery Chardonnay works well with this dish.

shells wiTh broCColi, garliC aNd suNdried TomaToesSErvES 4Only the broccoli florets are used in this dish. Blanch and freeze the stems to make broccoli soup another day. Shell pasta captures the garlicky bits in its folds, but you can use rigatoni or fusilli. My Aunt Rena used to make a version of this dish with thick, chewy cavatelli, which can sometimes be found in the frozen foods section of the supermarket.

2 bunches broccoli, cleaned and stems removed2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 6 cloves garlic, pressed and minced1 small jar sundried tomatoes in oil, drained and minced1/2 cup dry sherrycrushed red pepper to taste450 g shell pasta, cookedToasted slivered almonds and minced fresh parsley, for garnish

1. Cut the broccoli florets into bite-sized pieces. In a large pot of boiling water, cook the florets for about 5 minutes or until crisp-tender. Drain and pat dry.2. In a large frying pan, in hot oil, over medium-high heat, sauté garlic and sundried tomatoes until garlic softens. Add sherry, scraping up browned bits. 3. Add broccoli florets, salt and red pepper. Sauté until broccoli is lightly browned. Serve over shell pasta, garnished with slivered almonds and parsley.

… Serve with Sauvignon Blanc.

roasTed plum TomaToesSErvES 4Nothing tastes better than a roasted plum tomato, bursting with freshness and flavour. This is one of those dishes where a good-quality extra virgin olive oil makes a difference, so use your best. The garlic should be pushed between the tomatoes rather than scattered on top, which could cause it to burn. Roasted at high heat, plum tomatoes will hold their shape, while other tomatoes tend to disintegrate.

8 plum tomatoes, halved12 cloves garlic, crushed with the

back of a knife and peeled4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil2 bay leavesFresh basil or oregano leaves, for garnish

1. Preheat oven to 450˚F.2. Place tomatoes cut side up in a baking dish. Place garlic between the tomatoes. 3. Drizzle oil over tomatoes; add bay leaves, salt and pepper. 4. Roast 45 minutes or until tomatoes are softened and lightly charred. Remove bay leaves. Season with sea salt. Garnish with fresh basil or oregano. •

58 // April 2013

the notes\\

our sCoriNg sysTemTidiNgs uses The

100-poiNT sCale95-100 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . exceptional90-94 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . excellent85-89 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . very good80-84 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . good75-79 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . acceptable70 & under . . . . . . . . . . . below average

* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . available through wine clubs

green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . white & rosé winesred . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . red wines

each wine is judged on its own merits, in its respective category. readers should open their palates to compare the relationship between quality and price. we’d also ask you to carefully study

the commentaries in order to get an idea of whether the wine might appeal to your taste. the prices listed are suggested retail prices and may vary from province to province. since a large number of these wines can be purchased across canada, check with your local liquor board, or its website, for availability.

our tasters are tony aspler (on), sean wood (ns, nb), Gilles bois (Qc), evan saviolidis (on), harry hertscheg (bc), Gurvinder bhatia (ab), rick vansickle (on), ron liteplo (ab), tod stewart (on) and Jonathan smithe (Mb).

ArGENTINA // p. 58; AuSTrAlIA // p. 58-59; AuSTrIA // p. 59; cANAdA // p. 59-60; cHIlE // p. 60; FrANcE // p. 61-62; ITAly // p. 62-63; NEw zEAlANd // p. 63; PorTuGAl // p. 63; SouTH AFrIcA // p. 63; SPAIN // p. 64; uNITEd STATES // p. 64-65; ScoTcH // p. 65

/ARGENTINA

89 o. Fournier urban uco Malbec/tempranillo 2011, uco Valley ($15)This 50-50 blend from a high-altitude sub-region of Mendoza delivers well-bal-anced fruit and savoury flavours, backed by bright acidity and ripe tannins. Abundant black plum, cassis, tobacco and toasted spice ensure satisfying complexity. Pairs well with hearty tomato-based stews. (HH)

89 temático Reserva Syrah 2007, Valle de uco ($19.33)Very deep plum-red. Nose of

raspberries and spice, rosin and a hint of black pepper. Full-bodied, all the structural elements are present and effectively support the mouthful of blackberries and fruits. This needs another year or two to add complexity. (RL)*

/AUSTRALIA

91 hardys hRB d648 Chardonnay 2009 ($30)The HRB (Heritage Reserve Bin) premium series from Hardys represents the art of blending different terroirs, in this case Chard from Pember-ton and Adelaide Hills. It is a remarkable wine with a nose

that shows citrus and summer peach with subtle toasted vanilla, brioche and light spice notes. It is purely elegant on the palate with lemon-citrus-peach flavours, a racy vein of acidity, deft oak spice, and length through the finish. Serve with lobster or chicken with tarragon and sweet potato. (RV)

87 Penfolds konnunga hill Chardonnay 2011, South Australia ($15)Peach, pear, melon and subtle notes of spice, cream and butterscotch on the nose. It’s followed by juicy citrus, oak undertones and good vibrancy through the clean finish. (RV)

90 Penfolds thomas hyland Shiraz 2010, Adelaide ($20)A perennial go-to Aussie Shiraz that shows deep, dark colour in the glass and a bright and energetic nose of wild raspberry, black pepper, currants and savoury spices. It’s firm and full-bodied on the palate with emerging black fruits, cracked pepper-corns and bold spices that build through the finish. Just add red meat. (RV)

89 hardys hRB d641 heritage Reserve Bin Shiraz 2007, Mclaren Vale ($35.95)Dense purple colour, with a


the notes\\

our sCoriNg sysTem

bouquet of crushed blackber-ries and vanilla oak; full-bod-ied, dry, spicy, with well-inte-grated oak and a savoury black-olive flavour. Hold onto it for a year or so. (TA)

88 Penfolds koonunga hill Shiraz/ Cabernet 2010, South Australia ($17)A peppery, black-cherry/blackberry nose that show-cases bold red fruits over top of the light oak vanilla and spices. It shows plush tannins, good varietal fruits, tar, leather, currants and spice. A nice, solid red. (RV)

/AUSTRIA

86 hopler Pinot Blanc 2007, Qualitätswein, Burgenland ($16.83)Polished medium-gold. Nose of ripe apples with pears and spice. Full-bodied with high acidity. A clean, pure Pinot Blanc, tasting of apples with overtones of banana and honey. Drink now. (RL)*

/CANADA

92 Coyote’s Run Sparkling Pinot noir Rosé 2009, Four Mile Creek ($29.95)This is Coyote’s first spar-kling … and it is a home run! Made in the traditional method, it was aged 30 months on the lees and bottled with a crown cap. It exudes a profile of caramel, brioche/toast, strawberry, cherry and mushroom. There is excellent length and

concentration with a creamy texture rounding out the experience. Drink over the next 4 years. (ES)

91 Blue Mountain Chardonnay 2011, okanagan ($21)The expressive nose impress-es with complex citrus, spicy peach and a bushelful of orchard fruit. A combo of 40% stainless-steel fermenta-tion and 60% barrel fermen-tation with on-the-lees aging produces bright lemon-and-lime flavour with a rich, custardy mid-palate. An elegant seafood wine now, but will age gracefully for another 5 years. (HH)

90 Jackson-triggs Proprietors’ grand Reserve Chardonnay 2011, ontario ($17.95)This Niagara wine is straw-coloured with a complex nose of oak spice, forest floor, apple and vanilla. Full-bodied on the palate, it offers spicy, toasty pineapple and citrus flavours with a lively spine of acidity that gives the wine good length and is a great match for salmon steak or roast chicken. (TA)

89 Stoneboat Chorus 2011, okanagan ($18)The perfumed aromatics of their 30-year-old Germanic grapes (Müller Thurgau, Kerner, Schönburger) combine with more tropical Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc and Viognier. The lively off-dry palate balances fresh lemony acidity and spicy fruit flavour with a lingering, juicy sweetness. Pair with Thai dishes. (HH)

89 Mission hill Pinot gris 2010, BC ($19.95)Winemaker John Symes has a way with Pinot Gris. His 2010 is light straw in colour with a minerally, peach-pit nose. The wine is dry, medium-bodied with white peach, pear and citrus flavours that sustain well on lively acidity. (TA)

89 Blomidon estate Crémant Methode traditionelle 2011, nova Scotia ($24.99) This Estate-grown, bottle-fermented sparkler offers classic Nova Scotia aromatic fresh fruit, lively acidity and firm minerality. Ripe apple, pear and apricot flavours are accented with a touch of residual sweetness. (SW)

89 Blomidon estate Chardonnay 2010, nova Scotia ($34.99) Barrel-fermented in Burgun-dian oak and aged 18 months before release, this is the best Chardonnay made yet in Nova Scotia. Shows classic buttery, toasty lemon-citrus with a pinch of spice on the nose and citrus, hazelnut, sweet spice, firm mineral grip and balanced acidity on the palate. (SW)

87 haywire the Bub 2011, okanagan ($25)Sourced from a mountain vineyard near Oliver, this bottle-fermented, crown-capped Chardonnay/Pinot Noir bubbly delivers crunchy-apple freshness. Opens with a frothy fizz and apple-tart aromas.

The off-dry palate bursts with lively orchard fruit flavours and a lemony finish. Crack open with truffle popcorn. (HH)

85 domaine de grand Pré white An-napolis Valley, wine of nova Scotia ($14.99) Attractively off-dry wine showing aromatic Muscat, floral and lychee overtones, green fruit and a pinch of pepper. Fresh peach and apricot flavours lead on the palate. (SW)

91 Peller estates Signature Series Caber-net Franc 2010, Four Mile Creek ($40)This Cabernet Franc, from the superb 2010 vintage, is a standout. The dark ruby colour leads into a complex nose of smoke, tobacco, cassis, blackberry, raspberry and violets. There is enough concentration and tannic structure to allow it to age until 2020. (ES)

91 tawse winery Meritage 2010, niagara ($59.95)The 2010 rendition is a medium- to full-bodied offering with a deep ruby colour. The composition of 46% Merlot, 39% Cabernet Franc and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon has produced a bouquet of plum, raspberry, blueberry, coconut, vanilla, baking spice, earth and toast. It is concentrated and the tannins are on the firm side, ensuring a decade of life ahead. Superb stuff indeed! (ES)

60 // April 2013

//the notes90 Stoneboat Pinot noir 2009, okanagan ($25)This lighter style harkens to Burgundy with its floral nose, red berry flavour, subtle spice, earthy nuances and bright herbal notes from start to finish. Exhibits acidity, fruit and tannin in remarkable harmony, resulting in delicate-yet-mouth-filling sips and a long, satisfying finish. Poised for duck dishes. (HH)

90 Coyote’s Run Rare Vintage Meritage 2010, Four Mile Creek ($39.95)This is still an extremely youthful wine, which is still closed. Currently, there is cassis, blueberry, herbs, tar, violets and spice built on a medium-bodied frame. The long finish is dominated by the tannins right now, so hold until 2014 and then drink until 2020. (ES)

90 tawse winery Merlot 2010, twenty Mile Bench ($49.95)This mid-weight Merlot is a textbook example. A profile of plum, cherry, clove, cocoa, cinnamon and vanilla are found on the nose and the palate. The tannins are suave and the finish long, making for an elegant offering. Drink over the next 4 years. (ES)

89 Stoneboat Pinotage 2009, okanagan ($25)First planted in 1998, this South Africa-sourced grape has its fans and detractors, but is making its mark in the South Okanagan. Fragrant aromas highlight floral, caramel and black fruits.

The rich, meaty texture features black cherry, baking spice and a jammy finish. Aerate well. Serve with stewed meats. (HH)

89 Coyote’s Run Rare Vintage Syrah 2010, Four Mile Creek ($32.95)According to owner Jeff Aubry, Syrah is prone to excessive vigour, and if quality is the end game, vineyards need to be mani-cured constantly. In the case of this offering, CR has practised what they preach. Mid-weight, a combination of spice, pepper, hickory, cassis, raspberry and vanilla are unleashed on the senses. There is a lengthy aftertaste and enough tannin to allow it to age; my personal prefer-ence would be to drink over the next couple of years to take advantage of the exuberance. Pair with steak au poivre. (ES)

89 Coyote’s Run Rare Vintage Pinot noir 2010, Four Mile Creek ($49.95)This wine is a selection of the best barrels from the Red Paw and Black Paw vine-yards. A beautiful Pinot nose of cherry, plum and black raspberry melds with barrel nuances of vanilla, cocoa and spice. There is medium density, supple tannins, very good length and fresh acid rounding out the experience. Drink until 2017. (ES)

88 Colio estate CeV Small lot Syrah, lake erie north Shore ($19.95)The perfume of this medium-

bodied Syrah is a mélange of hickory, pepper, herbs, cassis, coconut, smoke and raspberry. It is elegant with soft tannins and very good length. Marinate some lamb chops in garlic and rosemary, hit the grill until medium-rare, and enjoy the pairing. (ES)

88 Peller estates Private Reserve Meritage 2010, niagara ($22.95)This blend of 44% Merlot, 37% Cabernet Franc and 19% Cabernet Sauvignon spent 12 months in a combination of French and American barrels. Mid-weight, the wine delivers a profile of cassis, spice, vanilla, raspberry and cocoa. There is very good length and a solid tannic structure. My suggestion would be to drink it over the next 4 years. (ES)

88 haywire gamay noir 2011, okanagan ($25)The South Okanagan’s sagebrush and ponderosa pines infuse the whiffs of dried herbs and wild berries. Snappy red-cherry acidity upfront leads to a lively, savoury mid-palate before the black-fruited back end. The 12.4% abv level and wet stone finish refreshes. Delicious with wood-fired pizza. (HH)

88 Peller estates Private Reserve Pinot noir 2010, niagara ($40)Here is a fruit-driven Pinot Noir, with dark cherry, blackberry and plum fruit meshing with vanilla, cocoa and spice from some new barrel-aging. Lengthy, supple tannins and medium acidity round everything out. (ES)

/CHILE

89 Viña Seña Sauvignon Blanc Arboleda 2011, Aconcagua Costa ($17)Very pale. Restricted nose of great finesse, green apple and a herbal touch. Quite fresh and pleasant; acidity is a bit dominant. Finishes well with more freshness. (GBQc)

88 Cono Sur organic Pinot noir 2011, Colcha-gua Valley ($15.65)Purplish. Charming nose of red fruits, hints of soft spices. Vibrant fruity taste, mellow mouthfeel, very soft tannins. Uncomplicated and easy to drink. (GBQc)

88 Viña Seña Cabernet Sauvignon Arboleda 2010, Colcha-gua Valley ($16)Dark colour with a purple rim. The red and black fruits have a nice clean character. Ditto in the mouth with firm but not hard tannins. Everything is in its place in the right amount, including the nice finish of good length. (GBQc)

88 Viña Seña Syrah Arboleda 2010, Colcha-gua Valley ($17)Dark, purplish. Black fruits and smoky notes. Thick in the mouth, chewy tannins slightly rough but wrapped in fruit. Well done; faithful to the grape character. (GBQc)

88 Viña Seña Carménère Arboleda 2009, Colcha-gua Valley ($20)Dark purplish colour. Intense nose of red fruits; notes of jam and pastry from the oak.


Quite firm and tannic, its compact body deserves 1 to 2 years of waiting. (GBQc)

/FRANCE

93 Charles gardet Brut 2000, Champagne ($48)Vintage bubbly from a good year. Medium-deep gold with plenty of bubbles. The nose is powerful even when this is served in a flute, exhibiting pears and light molasses, even a hint of tomato. On the palate it presents rich stewed apple flavours, with grapefruit overtones and a cloak of yeast. Ready to drink now, even if you are English. (RL)*

91 Roger and didier Raimbault Sancerre 2011, loire ($22.95)A textbook Sancerre. Light straw in colour with a greenish tint; spicy, grassy, gooseberry nose with some vanilla oak notes. Dry, elegant; beautifully balanced with lively acidity. Lovely mouthfeel with rich goose-berry and elderberry flavours. A delight with poached salmon. (TA)

89 domaine laroche Chablis St-Martin 2011, Burgundy ($22)White flowers, white peach, fresh rousing minerality and lovely hints of lime and citrus are the opening notes. This is a lovely organically farmed Chablis at an attractive price with a racy-steely backbone, grapefruit-peach fruits and stony minerality that builds through the finish. Pair with seafood and salads. (RV)

89 Pierre Sparr Reserve gewürztraminer 2010, Alsace AC ($23.79) Elegantly perfumed classic Gewürztraminer rose-petal scent with peppery spice, lively ripe berry fruit, softly refreshing acidity and a touch of sweetness on the long, deeply perfumed finish. (SW)

89 Pierre André Pouilly Fuissé AC 2010 ($37.49) Shows subtle green-apple scents with a trace of mineral and a hint of spice. Fine green fruit is enveloped in creamy smoothness in the mouth. Harmonious, seamless style finishing with an agreeable touch of gravelly mineral. (SW)

88 Cave Vinicole de hunawihr Pinot Blanc 2005, Alsace ($13.83)Clear, mature deep gold. Nose of bruised apple with a hint of apricot and spice. Medium-bodied, tastes of baked apples with a bit of brown sugar; hint of lemony acidity. The fruit is dropping out; this should be enjoyed now. (RL)*

88 Joseph drouhin Chablis Vaudon 2010, Burgundy ($20)Another smartly priced organic Chablis that over-delivers. This shows the beauty of the classic 2010 vintage with pure lemon, grapefruit and focused flinty minerality. Quite fresh and vibrant on the palate and soaked in juicy citrus goodness that makes you want one sip after another. Bring on the oysters or pair with poached salmon. (RV)

87 Bailly-lapierre Réserve Brut Crémant de Bourgogne, Burgundy ($18)Pale yellow and shy with short-lived bubbles. Very discreet nose, almost muted. Delicate taste, not completely dry, it becomes more interest-ing in the finish, which is a little more intensely flavour-ful (delicately fruity) and quite long. Drink now but not too cold to reveal more flavour. (GBQc)

87 Pierre André Bourgogne Chardonnay Reserve AC 2010 ($20) Ripe citrus and green apple, with leesy and floral scents on the nose and incisive green apple with a squeeze of lemon on the palate. Crisp acidity and dry mineral character is softened by creamy smoothness and lightly buttered toast on finish. (SW)

86 JM Brocard kimmeridgien 2008, Burgundy ($18)Bright yellow. The seductive nose of citrus, tropical fruits and a light butter note quickly loses intensity in the glass. Lively on the palate with an intense flavour but a light body, it finishes a bit short on a slightly bitter note. Drink up. (GBQc)

93 Château le Bon Pasteur 2009, Pomerol, Bordeaux ($115)The flagship wine of Michel Rolland’s vast portfolio is just great in this famous vintage. Of dark ruby colour, it shows a classy nose of pure fruit with

hints of red flowers. Oak is “forgotten,” lost in the fruit. Overall, very elegant and harmonious on the palate; the expression “a steel hand in a velvet glove” applies here. A great wine, hard to translate into words. (GBQc)

91 Pierre Amadieu Romane Machotte gigondas 2010, Rhône ($24)This blend of Grenache and Syrah is attractive for its blueberry and plum nose that brings in Christmas cake, mocha, cinnamon and liquorice. It’s bright and fresh on the palate with currants, roasted coffee bean, black liquorice, anise and bits of earth, fennel seed, roasted herbs and cedar notes that are persistent through the finish. Yum! (RV)

91 Château Viramon 2006, St-émilion grand Cru ($24)Classic right-bank Merlot/Cab Franc blend. Opaque garnet. Medium-strength aromas of stewed fruits, cedar and vanilla. In the mouth the flavours are black cherry accented with herbal notes. Still-rough tannins will soften a bit given another year or two. (RL)*

91 Château Cantin 2009, St-émilion grand Cru, Bordeaux ($35.50)Dark ruby. Medium-intensity nose of perfectly ripe red and black fruits. The fruit flavours are forward on the palate, texture is rich and velvety. Finish is firm, intense and very long. (GBQc)

62 // April 2013

//the notes91 Château Rolland-Maillet 2009, St-émilion grand Cru, Bordeaux ($41.25)Dark cherry colour. Red fruits, cinnamon and a hint of celery leaf provide a light, appropriate vegetal note. Fresh attack, smooth tannins and only a touch of oak to complement. Classic. (GBQc)

90 Château Vignelaure le Page 2003, Provence ($19.50)Bordeaux meets the South of France in this Cab Sauv/Syrah/Grenache blend. Medium-deep garnet. Nose of violets and strawberry jam, with a bit of cumin and leather. Medium-bodied, tastes of remarkably fresh red berries. Acids and tannins are still prominent; this will last another couple of years. A good match for a marinated leg of lamb roasted with Middle-Eastern spices, dates and almonds. (RL)*

90 Château Faizeau Vieilles Vignes 2009, Montagne St-émilion, Bordeaux ($27)Dark ruby. Ripe nose of black fruits, toasted oak, hints of tar. Dense and ripe on the palate, acidity is on the low side; powerful middle palate and an intense, slightly warm finish. (GBQc)

90 Pierre André Pom-mard Premier Cru “les Arvelets” AC 2005 ($68) Reveals impressively per-fumed Burgundian style with developed red fruits, refined floral and subtle spicy notes

and a fleshy, earthy overtone. Quite developed on the palate with elegant fruit, typical Pommard tannic grip, firm mineral core and well-inte-grated, deftly oaked finish. Better with another 3+ years in the cellar. (SW)

88 Château Maison neuve 2009, Bordeaux ($15.99)From the less-fashionable Blaye region. Deep ruby colour with a nose of blackcurrants and cedar; medium-bodied, soft mouth-feel but firmly structured. Dry and surprisingly elegant for the price. (TA)

88 domaine dupeuble Père et Fils Beaujolais AC 2010 ($22) This is Beaujolais the way it is supposed to be, loaded with gulpable dark cherry fruit and peppery spice. Lingering spicy sweetness is balanced by zesty acidity on the finish. Uncom-plicated wine for hearty enjoyment. (SW)

88 Château lestage-Simon 2009, Cru Bour-geois haut-Médoc, Bordeaux ($27.25)Dark ruby, purplish rim. Blueberry and other black fruits, oak notes. Velvety on the palate with a grainy backbone, the acid sensation is somewhat reinforced by a touch of bitterness. Finish is firm. (GBQc)

87 Pierre André Bour-gogne Pinot noir Vieilles Vignes AC 2010 ($20.79) Fragrantly perfumed straw-berry, cherry and a whiff of

Burgundian earthiness lead the way for more focused cherry flavour in the mouth. Appetizingly dry, light tannic grip and good overall balance, and a light splash of milk chocolate on the finish. (SW)

/ITALY

91 Michele Chiarlo le Madri 2011, Roero Arneis doCg, Piemonte ($19.50)Arneis is an indigenous grape from the Piemonte that excels in the chalky/sandy soils of Roero. Strong nose of white flowers and a mineral edge along with notes of honey and apricot. Full, fatty and round on the palate, it retains a good freshness from a sharp acidity, excellent presence from the middle palate through the finish that lasts many seconds. (GBQc)

86 Botter oggi Pinot grigio delle Venezie 2011 igt ($12.99) Good varietal; fresh floral and green fruit on the nose with attractively clean green apple flavour, refreshing acidity and crisp, dry finish. (SW)

92 Marchesi Antinori Chianti Classico doCg Riserva 2006, tuscany ($35)This blend of Sangiovese (90%) and Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (10%) gets aged in new French barriques and matured in bottle before release. The result is a ready-to-drink red that is complex, round and full-bod-

ied. Inviting cedar and tomato-leaf aromas. Rich cassis and cherry flavours. Lingering earthy spice finish. Offers pleasurable, well-bal-anced sipping to enhance a Tuscan-inspired dinner. (HH)

90 Cantina tudernum Rojano todi Rosso Superiore 2007, umbria ($21.50)Qualitative nose of red fruits (cherry) with notes of fruit stones and tea leaves. Com-pact, clean and well-balanced on the palate, the slightly bitter taste of fruit stones brings extra freshness. Finish is tight and long. (GBQc)

90 Benanti Rosso di Verzella 2009, etna Rosso doC, Sicily ($24.50) Complex nose shows blackcurrant, blackberry, a hint of raspberry, cinnamon, clove and fine oak. Elegant dark fruit flavours in the mouth lead off with black-berry, blackcurrant playing a sub-theme. Solidly struc-tured with fine-grained tannins, volcanic soil-influ-enced mineral grip, excellent balance and a long, well-integrated finish. A good example of Etna’s unique terroir and the qualities of the Nerello Mascalese grape. (SW)

89 tenuta Rocca dei leoni Villa Matilde 2009, Aglianico igt Campania ($21.99) Nose reveals raisiny intensity with notes of fig, liquorice, cinnamon, clove, mineral and a pinch of herb. Powerfully


concentrated dark fruit kicks in on the palate backed by focused acidity and solid tannic and mineral grip. Finishes long and spicy with an elusive smoky overtone. (SW)

88 Santa Maria la Palma Cannonau ‘le Bombarde’ 2010, Sardinia ($17.99)Loads of Mediterranean spice and a touch of ginger-bread on the nose with ripe flavours of plum and cherry, a touch of leather, and spice with a lifted finish. A great value and very versatile as it will pair with everything from salmon and grilled prawns to lamb. (GB)

88 Capezzana Monna nera 2007, tuscany ($25)Aromas of black cherry, plum and dried flowers with soft, silky tannins and a long, elegant finish. Easy-drinking but polished and well-made blend of Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Canaiolo. (GB)

87 Botter oggi Primitivo 2011, Puglia igt ($12.99) Interesting fleshy dark fruit with spicy, lightly gamey and earthy overtones on the nose. Blackberry and blackcurrant flavours with liquorice, dark chocolate, good structure and balance and a satisfying, full-flavoured finish. (SW)

87 Capezzana Corte Contini Bonacossi 2009, Barco Reale di Carmi-gnano doC ($24) Shows developed red and dark fruit with clove,

cinnamon and a whiff of sooty astringency. Flavours of dark plum, bitter cherry and background almond with a leafy green overtone are backed up by forceful acidity, dry tannic grip and dark chocolate. Needs cellaring. (SW)

/NEW ZEALAND

88 Satellite Pinot noir 2011, Marlborough ($27) Fragrant cinnamon-spiced cherry bouquet with a light leafy overtone; succulent red-cherry and strawberry flavours backed by enlivening acidity, lightly firm tannins and a splash of milk choco-late on the finish. (SW)

/PORTUGAL

96 taylor Fladgate Vintage Port 2009 ($100)2009 was a debatable year for most shippers of Vintage Port. Some were impressed with the quality and others not. Clearly, the good folks at Taylor have scored huge with their wines — Taylor, Fonseca and Croft. This was my favourite of their portfo-lio. It is a full-bodied and rich wine with an opaque purple-tinged colour. Violets, plums, cherries, spice and cocoa mesh together with outstanding length and 50-plus years of aging ahead of it. (ES)

90 Quinta do Penedo 2009, dão ($26)Intense fruity aromas with

loads of juicy dark plum, berry, leather and spice flavours, bright acidity, soft tannins, firm underlying structure, a nice edginess and a long, mocha-filled finish. A fantastic value and perfect for grilled lamb or wild boar. A blend of Touriga Nacional and Alfrocheiro. (GB)

89 Cap wine distribu-tion Pilheiros 2007, douro Valley ($20.15)A blend of Tinta Roriz and Touriga Franca that show-cases a beautiful nose of raspberry with a spicy touch. Pleasant taste; very fruity with a good quality tannic backbone for a full-bodied, balanced mouthfeel. A clean finish wraps things up nicely. (GBQc)

/SOUTH AFRICA

88 Van loveren Cra-mond Sauvignon Blanc/Chardonnay 2012, Robertson ($12.15)Very pale, almost water-white in colour with a gooseberry/green-fig nose and a grassy note; medium-bodied, dry with a gooseberry-jam flavour. Good mouthfeel with a crisp acidic finish. (TA)

88 Bellingham Chardon-nay/Viognier 2010, Fran-schhoek Valley ($13.95)Light straw in colour with a green tint; leesy apple and pineapple nose with a touch of oak; full in the mouth, rich and spicy with pineapple and orange flavours and a fine spine of acidity that carries the flavour. Good value. (TA)

87 Boschendal the Pavillion Chenin Blanc/Viognier 2011, western Cape ($10.95)Very pale in colour with a greenish tint; minerally, pear skin with a light floral note. There’s a touch of sweetness in mid-palate with peach and pear flavours; medium-bodied with moderate length. (TA)

86 douglas green the Beach house Sauvignon Blanc/Sémillon 2011, western Cape ($11.99) Shows white peach, some tropical fruit with grassy herbal and gooseberry Sauvignon notes. Grassy green fruit is mellowed by rounded tropical-fruit flavours with firm mineral and bright acidity. (SW)

89 lady Anne Barnard Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, Coastal Region ($17) A very tasty Cab for the price. Dense ruby-purple colour with a smoky, cedar and blackcurrant nose; well extracted flavours of blackcur-rant; medium to full-bodied, fruit-driven, dry with soft ripe tannins and balancing acidity. Good length. (TA)

88 Boekenhoutskloof the wolftrap Syrah/Mourvèdre/Viognier 2011, western Cape ($14)The blend of these Rhône grapes produces a deep ruby-coloured wine with a nose of blackberries and black olives. The full- bodied savoury taste of blackberries with an iodine note fills the mouth. (TA)

64 // April 2013

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//the notes /SPAIN

89 Cristalino Jaume Serra Brut nV, Cava ($12.99)Clean scents of apple, lemon and toasty almond alert the nose. The lively mousse, firm structure, crisp fruit flavours and dry finish ensure a refreshing quaff. This spec-tacular value and goes-down-easy style make it a perfect reception sparkler, whether for large gatherings or to greet friends at home. (HH)

90 Bodegas Borsao tres Picos garnacha 2010, Campo de Borja ($19.95)Campo de Borja is a little-known region south of Rioja that specializes in Garnacha. With this wine I thought I was sampling a Châteauneuf-du-Pape at under $20. The wine had the dense, dark purple-black colour of the southern Rhône, a spicy, herbal, blackberry nose, and it was full and savoury on the palate. (TA)

89 olivares Altos de la hoya 2009, Jumilla ($16)The grab-your-attention bou-quet includes seductive

floral, rustic liquorice and smoked meat. The ripe Monastrell grapes foster a richly textured palate and soft tannins, bursting with blueberry and dark berries. The long spicy finish satisfies, along with the value price point. Primed for potluck dinners. (HH)

/UNITED STATES

92 dutton estate dutton Palms Vineyard Char-donnay 2010, Russian River, Sonoma ($53.95)This is a magnificent Char-donnay from the coolest part of the Green Valley. Straw-coloured, with a nose of toasted Meyer lemons and oak spice. It’s full-bodied and well extracted with sweet citrus and pineapple flavours. Great intensity and length. (TA)

90 uvaggio Moscato Secco 2010, California ($19.95)With a name like Uvaggio Moscato Secco you’d expect the wine to come from Italy, perhaps Veneto. In fact, it comes from Lodi. The Muscat grape is highly perfumed with

notes of cardamom and lilac and flavours of orange, melon and mango that finish refreshingly dry. (TA)

88 Rodney Strong Charlotte’s home Sauvignon Blanc 2011, Sonoma ($15)A nose of fresh grapefruit, kiwi, tropical fruits and hints of grass. It’s lively and fresh on the palate with citrus-grapefruit fruit, summer herbs and a tangy-zesty finish. (RV)

88 Chateau Ste Michelle Chardonnay 2010, Columbia Valley ($18)This well-established winery from the Columbia Valley in Washington State has always delivered quality wine at a great price. The 2010 Char-donnay follows that path with Granny Smith apple, citrus, butterscotch cream and vanilla notes on the nose. It’s soft and lush on the palate with apple, lemon rind and pear fruit joined by vanilla toast and creamy caramel notes. (RV)

93 Signorello estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, napa ($98)Their hillside vineyards along

the eastern side of the Silverado Trail offer a variety of exposures, which enhances complexity, as does the inclusion of Cab Franc (12%). Features classic blackcurrant intertwined with a fine herbal thread. Loads of mouth-filling sweet black fruits, comple-mented by a warm spiciness and supported by ripe, well-polished tannins. Cellar over the next 10 years. (HH)

91 torres Family Vine-yards Marimar estate la Masía Pinot noir 2007, Russian River, Sonoma ($34.95)Deep ruby-plum in colour, with a spicy beetroot-and-tobacco nose; medium-bodied, elegant, richly extracted cherry flavour that fills the palate. Firmly structured. (TA)

91 Blackbird Vineyards Arise 2009, napa ($65)Ripe, rich and plush, with a fresh herbal character, concentrated plum and black cherry flavours, firm, ripe tannins, elegant structure and a long finish with a fresh touch of acidity. Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Caber-net Sauvignon. (GB)


90 Rodney Strong estate Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley 2010, Sonoma ($28)Lovely spice notes of nutmeg and cinnamon work well with the cassis, plums, currants and oak-barrel accents of spice and creamy vanilla-caramel. It displays the cooler climes of Sonoma with bright acidity on the palate and allows the fine oak and spice to work harmoniously with the basket of red fruits. Great food wine with lamb stew and grilled red meats. (RV)

90 Rodney Strong estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, Alexander Valley ($30)Bold aromatic start features abundant ripe fruit and dark chocolate. Mouth-filling cassis, black plum and boysen-berry flavours are accompa-nied by plush tannins and a well-textured palate. Lingers with warm cocoa notes. A fine companion for beef dishes over the next 5 years. (HH)

89 Robert Mondavi Private Selection Cabernet Sauvignon 2011, napa ($17.95)Robert Mondavi is one of those icon names in the wine world. Even though he is no longer with us, his brand is probably the most recogniz-able in the world. And the quality remains. The wine is deep ruby in colour with a bouquet of cedar, blackcur-rant, toasty oak and a floral top note. Medium-bodied, sweet fruit with plum and currant flavours, it’s soft on the palate with a tannic lift on the finish. (TA)

89 Project Paso Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, Paso Robles ($18)From Don Sebastiani & Sons, this is a robust red with notes of kirsch, blackberry and cassis fruit with vanilla oak, spice, tobacco leaf and meaty-earthy accents. It’s a young wine on the palate with evolving and ripe fruits, spice, good structure and plush tannins. It shows some earthy notes, but the fruit remains the star. Try with a steak sandwich with grilled onions and peppers. (RV)

89 Plume Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, napa ($30)Blending Napa’s cool and warm sub-appellations brings about bright cherry fruit and richer cassis, enhanced by Rutherford’s noted dustiness. French oak aging imparts toasty vanilla and creamy mocha notes. Splashes of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot imbue complexity and spiciness. Get grillin’! (HH)

89 Fuse Cabernet Sauvi-gnon 2010, napa ($31)Sourced from cool hillside and warmer valley floor vineyards, and then aged in French and American oak. The result is a complex array of dried herb, sweet berry fruit, blackcur-rant, and earthy spice. The Syrah (15%) and splash of Merlot (3%) flesh out the polished tannins. Match with grilled meats. (HH)

89 Cade napa Cuvée 2008, napa ($99)Firm structure with deep concentrated flavours of

blackberry, currant and chocolate; well-balanced, excellent depth and richness with a long, persistent finish. Drinkable now if decanted for a few hours, but will benefit from a couple of years in the cellar. Can be had with a roast but why not try it with a dark chocolate dessert. (GB)

88 Robert Mondavi Private Selection Caber-net Sauvignon 2011, Central Coast ($18)Savoury red fruits on the nose with blackberry, spice, game and earth chiming in. It’s inviting on the palate with spiced plums, ripe cherry, good acidity and a silky-smooth finish. (RV)

88 Ravenswood old Vine Vintners’ Blend zinfandel 2010 ($18)This “unapologetically” big Zin has never wavered from the robust, full-throttle style this Cali producer is known for. Notes of ripe, jammy raspberry, bold cherry and blueberry doused in pepper and spice that never lets up. It’s a full attack of red fruit, blended spices, firm tannins and the kind of structure that makes this the perfect wine for man-gatherings where big, juicy steaks are served hot off the grill. (RV)

87 liberty School Syrah 2008, California ($25)Dark with a rich, smooth texture and lots of ripe fruit flavours: plum, blackberry, cherry; a touch of meat, liquorice and spice, and a long, supple finish. (GB)

/SCOTCH

glenmorangie the Quinta Ruban highland Single Malt, Scotland ($78)Elegant and warm with an underlying dried-fruit sweetness, orange peel, chocolate, and nutty flavours, a sleek, viscous mouthfeel, hint of spice and long, lingering finish. Great match with chocolate-covered orange segments. (GB)

glenmorangie the nectar d’or highland Single Malt, Scotland ($85)Delicate and easy-drinking, with honey, ginger, citrus and almonds; lovely texture, finishing long with vanilla, spice and citrus. Enough character for the seasoned scotch drinker, but ap-proachable enough for the novice. (GB)

glenmorangie the lasanta highland Single Malt, Scotland ($78)Clean and lush with caramel, honey and citrus peel, and a touch of nuttiness and cocoa-covered butter-scotch candies. Bring out the haggis.(GB)

glenmorangie 18 year old highland Single Malt, Scotland ($129)Rich, complex, elegant and silky-smooth, with dried fruit, honey, vanilla, almonds and smoke, a long, full finish, a touch of spice and well-bal-anced alcohol. Nicely compli-ments a fruit cake. (GB)

66 // April 2013 IllustrAtIon: frAncesco gAllé, WWW.frAncescogAlle.com

tasting blind\\ fiNal word By TONy ASPLer

There is an apocryphal story about the late André Simon, who founded the International Wine and Food Society in 1933. Simon was legendary for his ability to taste wines blind. One day his students decided to play a trick on him. They opened bottles of Château Lafite 1928 and 1929 (in those days students could afford fine Bordeaux). They poured them into a decanter and asked the great man to tell them what he tasted. Simon swirled the glass and sniffed the bouquet. Without hesitation, he declared: “Châ-teau Lafite!” Then he took a sip, moved the wine around his palate. For a moment he was puzzled, then he tapped his left cheek and said, “1928”; then his right cheek and said, “1929.”

Blind tasting is the hardest and most humbling thing a wine professional can do. There is that dreaded moment at a dinner party when the host slides a glass of wine across the table and says, “You’re a wine expert; tell me what this is.” And of course all conversation stops and all eyes are on you.

Every year since 2000, I have given an award for the best blind taster in the Ontario wine importers’ association, Drinks Ontario. Participants have to identify the grape variety, the region, the vintage and — if possible — the producer of six wines, three white and three red. This year I threw a real curve. Instead of three different whites, I introduced the same wine twice. No one recognized it as the same wine — and these were experienced tasters.

The first thing I tell participants before they start the competition is “Don’t second-guess yourself. Go with your first instinct.” If you can recognize the nose of a Sauvignon Blanc or a Pinot Noir on first sniff, you’re probably right. Don’t start de-bating with your nose, your most impor-

tant organ when it comes to wine tasting. Once you believe you’ve established the grape variety, ask yourself: “Does it come from a cool growing region or a hot one?” The depth of colour and the thickness of the “legs” will give you a clue. The colour will also give you an indication of the age. A tawny rim speaks to an older red; a deep golden straw to an older, oaked white.

A good blind taster has to be part de-tective, part historian, part psychologist and part lucky. Like a detective, you’re looking for clues and if something isn’t there you can eliminate it. As a historian, you have to think back to the quality of vintages in the region you suspect the wine is from. As a psychologist, you have to get into the mind of the person who has set up the tasting. Being in Ontario you can expect there might be a local wine in the lineup. And then there is lucky ... My most memorable triumph

was being handed a glass blind by a som-melier at a Toronto restaurant. I tasted it and said: “This is a Keint-He Pinot Noir 2007 from Prince Edward County.” He was gobsmacked. (I had tasted the wine the evening before with the winemaker.)

There is a great short story by Roald Dahl called “Taste.” At a dinner party the host serves a wine blind to a guest who is a wine expert. It’s so rare that he is convinced his friend could never get it, and he bets the hand of his daughter on it. To the host’s chagrin, the guest comes up with the name, the district, commune, vineyard and the year of the wine. Just then the maid comes in with the guest’s glasses, which he had left in the study where the bottle had been standing up.

Which just goes to show, when it comes to blind tasting, one glance at the label is worth a thousand years of experience. •

AdautHentic wines to come

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