think krakow magazine

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KRAKÓW’S OLYMPIC DREAM 2022 KRAKÓW AS A TOP IT AND OUTSOURCING HUB KRAKÓW: FROM TOURISM TO TECHNOLOGY MAKING WAVES: EIGHT YEARS OF LOCAL DIGITAL SUCCESS By Jens Markussen By Anja Wedberg By Salvatore Carfora Interview with Andrew Hallam BIKING AROUND KRAKÓW By Angel Lopez Peiro By Michał J. Steckiw FEATURE FEATURE TOURISM BUSINESS BUSINESS LIVING DOWN IN ONE? THE DELIGHTS OF POLISH VODKA INSIGHT FOR BUSINESS TOURISM AND LIVING

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Magazine for Business, Living and Tourism in Krakow, Poland.

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Page 1: Think Krakow Magazine

KRAKÓW’S OLYMPIC

DREAM 2022

KRAKÓW AS A TOP IT AND OUTSOURCING HUB

KRAKÓW:FROM TOURISM TO TECHNOLOGY

MAKING WAVES:EIGHT YEARS OFLOCAL DIGITALSUCCESS

By Jens MarkussenBy Anja Wedberg

By Salvatore Carfora

Interview with Andrew Hallam

BIKINGAROUNDKRAKÓW

By Angel Lopez Peiro

By Michał J. Steckiw

FEATURE

FEATURE

TOURISM

BUSINESS

BUSINESS LIVING

DOWN IN ONE?THE DELIGHTS OF POLISH VODKA

INSIGHT FOR BUSINESS TOURISM AND LIVING

Page 2: Think Krakow Magazine

About Think Krakow

Insight for visitors, expats and the international business community in Kraków... Kraków’s cultural and historical heritage is world renowned, and the

city has been a major hot spot on the European travel map for decades.

Today Kraków is becoming an international hub for IT and business

services, with the second highest number of foreign investments and

companies in Poland. Kraków is also the 2014 European City of Sports

and a bidding candidate for the Winter Olympics 2022. In 2013

Kraków became the UNESCO City of Literature. In 2016 the city will

host World Youth Days. Not surprisingly, these developments attracts

an ever increasing number of foreigners who visit and settle in the city.

Think Kraków is the result of a collaboration between a mix of

international and Polish residents who bring insight into life in Kraków

beyond the obvious tourist attractions: living, working and doing

business in the city.

Learn about the latest developments, discover hidden treasures off the

beaten track and find out what the city can offer newcomers – from

recommended restaurants and bars to museums and gyms. Read

interviews with local expats and foreign business people or follow in

the footsteps of Pope John Paul II, Steven Spielberg, Celine Dion, Fidel

Castro, Roman Polanski, Lenny Kravitz and other famous visitors.

Kraków is riding on the crest of a wave – read this issue to get the most

out of your Kraków experience.

Michal Steckiw

Chief Editor. Think Kraków“Florianska Street by night , Kraków.” Photograph by Radoslaw Piekarz

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3 www.thinkkrakow.com3 www.thinkkrakow.com

Click on a nametag of interest for related articles and reviews.

Małopolska Garden of ArtsKarma on Krupnicza Street

Blonia common

Choco Cafe Hotel Copernicus *****

Hotel Sheraton *****

Hotel Andels ****

Rynek - Main Market Square

Galeria Krakowska

The Royal Castle on The Wawel Hill Manggha

ICE Congress Centre

Unsound Festival at Forum

Kładka Footbridge

Stare Podgórze

Former Jewish Ghetto created by Nazi Gemany in WW II

MOCAK

Schindler’s Factory

ZabłocieKazimierz

Pod Wawelem restaurant

The Royal Route

Main Railway Station & Underground tramway

Nowa Huta

Browar Lubicz

Cracovia Business Centre

Wiślane Tarasy

Galeria Kazimierz

Dajwór Street

Krakow Arena

Valparaiso restaurant

Map | Menu | Editorial | Business | Tourism | Krakow Living | Highlights | We Recommend | Gallery

Page 4: Think Krakow Magazine

4 www.thinkkrakow.com

Map | Menu | Editorial | Business | Tourism | Living | Highlights | We Recommend | GalleryOur contributors

Editorial contributionsElisabeth Wojcik

Christian Hamp

Anja Wedberg

Anna Cieśla

Angel Lopez Peiro

Jens Markussen

Hilde Merete Udnaes

Elena Gordeeva-Voot

Salvatore Carfora

Michał Steckiw

Vegard Tverberg

Katarzyna Morzewska

Grzegorz Kałucki

Russell Lack

Derk Zijp

Content quality managerAnja Wedberg

Chief editor & Project managerMichał Steckiw

Design & developmentKamila Jarosz

Monika Karcz

Salvatore Carefora

Thomas Stringe

Michał Steckiw

PhotographyMichał Steckiw

Radosław Piekarz

David Corral

iStock Photography

[email protected]

www.thinkkrakow.comMaking Wakes Polska

ul. Adama Asnyka 9

31-144 Kraków, Poland.

thinkkrakow.com

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Page 5: Think Krakow Magazine

5 www.thinkkrakow.com

Map | Menu | Editorial | Business | Tourism | Living | Highlights | We Recommend | GalleryMeet some of our editors

Anja Wedberg

Anja is an expat Swede who moved to Kraków in January 2012, after spending some 12 years in the United Kingdom.

Her professional background is in translation, marketing and web publishing. Anja has an MA in Translation Studies from UCL in London (2010) as well as an MA in English literature from University of Sussex (2000).Anja’s favourite pastimes are karate and taekwondo, although she can also be seen sampling flavoured vodka or drinking Książęce in Kazimierz. She is relentlessly optimistic and refuses to give up on learning Polish.

LinkedIN

Michal J. Steckiw

Digital Project Manager and web strategistwith an interest in digital technologies, onlinecommunication and travel photography.A native of Kraków, he lived for many years in Canada (Toronto, Montreal) and the United Kingdom (London) and returned to the city back in late 2012. His professional background includes an MA degree in International Relations, a certificate in project management, and over 7 years of experience in visual communication design and digital industry.In his free time Michal bikes along the Wisła boulevards, enjoys dining out in bohemianKazimierz or wanders around the city to capture charm of its old streets through photography.LinkedIN

Salvatore Carfora

Salvatore is an Italian who decided to move abroad several years ago, to broaden his horizons and get to know other cultures and languages. He attended school of arts in Italy and gained a university degree in advertisement and graphic design. At some point he decided to move to the language business, and started a career in localization and translation for the gaming industry. His next career move brought him to Poland. Kraków is his last destination to date, where he shares his house with his girlfriend, a dog and several bikes. In this edition of Think Krakow, Salvatore shared his insight and tips on biking around the city.LinkedIN

Angel Lopez Peiro

His professional and academic background is related to journalism, translation and teaching English as a foreign language. Originally from Barcelona, Spain, Angel moved to Kraków in April 2011 to work for a technology and design firm as a web content editor for a travel portal. He is interested in Eastern European affairs, from business development, politics, social and cultural life to travel. Since moving to Poland Angel is learning Polish and explores Kraków nightlife and cultural events.

LinkedIN

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6 www.thinkkrakow.com

Map | Menu | Editorial | Business | Tourism | Living | Highlights | We Recommend | GalleryMeet some of our editors

Jens Markussen

Having finished his education within International Relations in August 2009, Jens moved from Denmark to Kraków with the initial idea of moving on after a few years. On the first day of his new job, however, he met his then future wife. All plans were changed again the folloawing summer when there were two lines on the pregnancy test instead of one. Today, Jens uses his Danish nativity both at work – when editing for a large tourism portal, as well as at home – when raising his daughter. Kraków has become his home. Jens is one of many international residents in a city that keeps attracting a mix of Europeans for study, work or love.LinkedIN

Elisabeth Wójcik

Elisabeth was born and raised in southern Belgium. She decided to move to Kraków after finishing high school, to discover better her country of origin while studying at the university.The first professional experience she gained in communication and translation, was within transition projects in HR and learning administration that eventually lead her to web content and people management. Elisabeth enjoys very much the international environment of Kraków, where Art and Culture are often the reason of unexpected meetings. In her free time, if she is not watching a good movie or testing new vegan recipes, Elisabeth is probably out walking Negra, her dog.

Christian HampChris is a native Austrian from Vienna who, after travelling and living in quite a few countries, was caught by Kraków´s lively culture & nightlive in October 2011. His professional and academic background meanders along the subjects of media management, journalism and public relations. In his sparetime Chris tries to spend as mu ch as time possible on reading about tourism and destinations, planning trips and travelling around the world. Despite his interest in other countries and languages, there is still a lot of room for improvement when it comes to his Polish language skills (he knows that Think Kraków doesn´t count as an excuse). If Chris is not working or travelling, there is a fair chance to find him in some café or bar in Kazimierz.LinkedIN

Vegard TverbergVegard is a Norwegian whose holiday to Kraków seven years ago had a life-changing effect. Impressed by the city’s heritage he decided to move here permanently with his wife.

Vegard is a licensed Kraków city guide and runs the Sviatovid Guiding Tour firm. He has been working as an accountant for twelve years, but it is his role as a guide that brings out his true personality; a teacher, an entertainer and a polemic. In his free time he loves nature; running along the Wisła River, hiking in the Tatra Mountains or going cross-country skiing.

Facebook

Page 7: Think Krakow Magazine

Kraków Living Photo Gallery

Business

Highlights

Tourism

Editorial Features

We Recommend

Page 8: Think Krakow Magazine

8 www.thinkkrakow.com

Map | Menu | Editorial | Business | Tourism | Living | Highlights | We Recommend | Gallery

From tourism to technology: Kraków is open for international business

Kraków ‘s Olympic dream 2022

Visitnorway - an international web project delivered by a multinational team based in Kraków

Making Waves: eight years of local digital success

Going global: Kraków as a top IT & outsourcing hub

Is it easy for a foreigner to open small business in Kraków?

Career opportunities in Kraków

Kraków’s royal route: Photogallery

Kraków & Warsaw: a tale of two capitals.

Down in one? Discover the delights of Polish vodka

Hidden treasures: off the beaten track

A day in communist Kraków: in the footsteps of Lenin and Fidel Castro

The seven wonders of Kraków

Gyms and fitness Shopping centres

Cafes: Indulge in a Kraków style coffee

Restaurants

Museums

Accommodation

Bars: Just a flavour from a never-ending list

Kids entertainment: Also for grown-ups

Events and festivals

Networking Events

Culture: Theatres, Music, CinemasPlac Nowy and the heart of Kazimierz

Dajwór street in Kazimierz

ARS: Kraków Artistic Cinema Centre

Karma coffee roaster

Schindler’s Factory museum

‘Pod Wawelem’: The Habsburg in a Polish beer tent

Cupcake Corner Bakery

Kraków’s lifeblood: the Wisła river

Choco Cafe

Kraków’s districts at glance

Kraków and 21st century architecture

10 ways to get around Kraków: from horses to underground tramway

Biking around Kraków

Fitness first: stay fit in Kraków

Cool apartments at the right price: Kraków is the buyer’s market. For now.

Frania Cafe and Laundrette

Editorial features We recommend

Tourism

Business

Krakow living

Highlights

Page 9: Think Krakow Magazine

From tourism to technology: Kraków is open for international businessby Michał Steckiw

Kraków 2022: The Olympic dreamby Jens Markussen

Case study: Visitnorway travel portal delivered by a multinational team based in Kraków.by Angel Lopez Peiro and Russell Lack

Editorial features

Map | Menu | Editorial | Business | Tourism | Krakow Living | Highlights | We Recommend | Gallery

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Map | Menu | Editorial | Business | Tourism | Living | Highlights | We Recommend | Gallery

From tourism to technology:

Kraków is open for international business

Editorial Features

Modern office development along the Wisła River in Kraków’s city centre, with many international firms

After returning from London,

Michal explores how Kraków changed over

the years.

by Michal J. Steckiw

Kraków is internationally renowned for its heritage, culture and history. It was one of the first cities to be listed as the UNESCO World Heritage Site and has been the main tourist destination in Poland for decades. Since Poland joined the European

Union in 2004, Kraków has also become one of the country’s top destinations for Business Service Centres and IT industry, being listed in the top 10 global list.

In 2012 the city was listed among the

most attractive global cities in a joined

report from the Economist and CITI

Bank. International outsourcing, new

business parks and a candidature for

the Winter Olympics 2022 – Poland’s

second biggest city is emerging as one

of the fastest growing hot spots in

Europe. Today it is the city’s potential

for business that puts Kraków in the

international spotlight, and there

are clear signs that local authorities

and businesses have the vision

and ambition to support further

development.and a long lasting effect.

International Kraków?As the main tourist destination in

Poland, Kraków has seen millions of

visitors exploring the historic streets

around the Rynek square in the old

town and around the Wawel Castle.

In 2012 almost three million people

visited Kraków from abroad. Together

with Warsaw, Kraków has been the

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Map | Menu | Editorial | Business | Tourism | Living | Highlights | We Recommend | GalleryEditorial Features

Kraków became a hub for IT,

business processes outsourcing and digital services. Poland’s Silicon

Valley?

Cracovia Business Centre

one city in Poland where you hear

foreign languages mixed with Polish

on the streets.

In recent years, however, the city has

also started to attract a new kind of

visitor: business professionals. More

than 3000 foreigners are currently

working in Kraków’s outsourcing

sector.

These new residents have moved here

to work for international companies

like HSBC Bank, IBM, Motorola,

Shell, UPS, Capgemini, Google,

State Street and Hitachi. Kraków has

the second largest concentration of

foreign companies and A-class office

buildings in Poland, after Warsaw.

The office real estate market is

booming driven by growing demand

for A class office rental space.

With a number of strategic

developments underway, the city’s

business infrastructure is catching

up with that of the capital. There is

a number of modern business parks

around the city (Olsza, Zabłocie,

Zabierzów, Płaszów and Bronowice)

serving international companies

relocating to Kraków. The new

projects are under development and

the city council is considering new

locations for office towers along

Powstania Warszawskiego street.

Poland’s Silicon Valley?The explosion of mobile and web-

based technologies has meant that

Western technology companies need

to look further to fill their growing

demand for skilled IT specialists,

and Kraków has a great deal to offer.

There are over 8000 graduates from

IT related studies each year. Further

advantages are relatively low costs of

living and operating businesses plus

excellent flight connections to almost

every country in Europe.

Investors and entrepreneurs from

traditional tech hubs in American

Silicon Valley have shown interest

in Kraków, and many local software

development agencies now serve

a number of clients from the US

and Western Europe. There is also

significant growth in video game

design and development, web

design, mobile applications and

bioinformatics.

In addition there is a high

concentration of digital media

(Poland’s largest web news portals,

are based in Kraków) and an emerging

start-up community.

Consequently, it is not surprising

that a number of IT companies have

opened branches in Kraków in the

last decade, including Google, Cisco,

Nokia, Motorola, Delphi and Making

Waves.

Making Waves, a Norwegian design

and technology company, is an

interesting case in point. They opened

a small outsourcing office in 2005;

today, they are a large development

centre with access to a team of

experienced, qualified developers, IT

specialists and web content producers

serving clients in many European

languages.

One of their flagship projects, Noway’s

official travel portal www.visitnorway.

com, is delivered in nine languages

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Map | Menu | Editorial | Business | Tourism | Living | Highlights | We Recommend | GalleryEditorial Features

from Kraków by a multinational team

of digital content specialists.

Last year FIFA chose to collaborate

with Making Waves from their Zurich

based head office. The success story of

Making Waves shows that Kraków has

become an attractive destination not

just for outsourcing, but for setting

up offices with complex international

operations.

Further developmentsApart from the growth in digital

technology related businesses,

several other exciting developments

are currently in process. The city is

building a congress centre to meet

the demand of the international

conference industry. With a central

location just across the river from

the Wawel castle, the centre has the

potential of hosting both business

and academic events from around the

world. The modern, sleek architecture

of the building stands in stark contrast

to the historic old town. On the other

side of the city centre there is a cluster

of cranes constructing a modern

sports arena for large sporting events

and exhibitions. Kraków has already

been named the 2014 European

City of Sports by the European

Commission.

Kraków of the futurePerhaps Kraków’s most exciting

prospect is that the city council and

the Małopolska region, together

with a Slovakian partner, have

applied to host the Winter Olympics

2022. Kraków will compete with

Barcelona, Nice and Oslo to win the

first Olympic event for Poland. The

city’s 10 year investment strategy

was drawn up with the Olympics in

mind and includes a number of bold

developments. The Małopolska region

is modernising the train station and

developing a brand new international

terminal at Kraków’s airport with a

capacity of serving up to eight million

passengers annually.

Now there are plans to construct the

city’s first underground line that will

connect the west and east parts of the

city, the old town and the modern

Kraków deservesto be a cosmopolitan

city recognised for itsbusiness and human

potential.

business park around Olsza and the

Aquapark leisure centre. By the end

of 2013, the city also plans to launch

a metropolitan rail network that will

connect the Kraków city centre with

the suburbs and surrounding towns.

The Olympic village, high speed rail to

the Tatra mountains and new hotels

will follow. The investment strategy

will further strengthen the Kraków

brand internationally, and after the

success of UEFA 2012 championship,

Poland’s chance to win the Olympic

bid is more likely than ever. We keep

our fingers crossed. Kraków of 2022

deserves to be a real cosmopolitan

international city recognised not only

for its history and heritage but also for

business and human potential.

Page 13: Think Krakow Magazine

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Map | Menu | Editorial | Business | Tourism | Living | Highlights | We Recommend | Gallery

Kraków has fewer than one million inhabitants, but it sure knows how to dream like one that has ten. The city’s wildest dream to date is the bid to host the 2022 Winter Olympics. Is this dream realistic? We have looked into the idea’s strengths and weaknesses, opportunities and threats. This project has a promising potential.

The success of the UEFA EURO 2012

proved to the world that Poland has

what it takes to organise a large-scale,

international sporting event. While

Kraków failed in its bid to become one

of the hosts during the EURO 2012,

the city is now determined instead to

become an Olympic city. During the

16 days of the Olympic Games, around

3,000 athletes would come here to

participate in almost 100 winter sport

competitions – from curling and ice

hockey to alpine and freestyle skiing –

their struggles reported to more than

230 television and radio broadcasters

in 220 countries.

But wait, I hear you say – there are

no mountains in Kraków! Well, there

were no mountains in Turin in 2006

either, and that didn’t stop the Italians

from submitting a successful Olympic

bid. The competitions that take place

in mountains would be organised

in Zakopane, Poland’s most famous

winter destination 100 kilometres to

the south of Kraków, and in Chopok,

across the border in Slovakia.

Editorial Features

Jens, a Danish resident of Kraków investigates the

pros and cons of Kraków’s Olympic dream. Is Poland

going to host its first Olympic games in the near

future?

Kraków 2022:

The Olympic dream

by Jens Markussen

Page 14: Think Krakow Magazine

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Map | Menu | Editorial | Business | Tourism | Living | Highlights | We Recommend | Gallery

Kraków’s bid is officially supported

by the Polish and Slovakian

governments, the Marshall of the

Małopolskie region, and, not least,

by both the president of the Olympic

Committee of Poland and his

Slovakian counterpart. The event is

an opportunity to further strengthen

regional cooperation and development

and contribute to promoting winter

sports in the two countries. The

Olympic legacy is also likely to

have a positive impact on Kraków’s

international branding and a long-

lasting effect on international tourism,

the so-called Barcelona ‘92 effect.

So, what are the chances of Kraków’s

dream coming true?

The international broadcasting

centre and pressroom already has a

dedicated venue at the top modern

ICE conference centre that is due to

open in 2014. As for the opening and

closing ceremonies, initial speculation

suggests that Wisła Stadium, located

in Kraków and with a seating capacity

of 33,000, would be the most suitable

of existing venues.

Editorial Features

Winter Olympics on the horizon?The success of UEFAEURO 2012 provedto the world thatPoland has what

it takes to organisea large-scale,international

sportingevent

istock Photo: Winter Olympic Games in Vancouver, Canada, 2010

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Map | Menu | Editorial | Business | Tourism | Living | Highlights | We Recommend | GalleryEditorial Features

Kraków Arena under construction , east of city center. When completed in 2014 the modern venue will host both large sports and entertainment events, including World Valleyball Championship.

The figure skating and short track

events would unfold at the new ice

arena (scheduled for completion in

2014). The curling teams, meanwhile,

would slide their stones and sweep

their brooms at another ice rink under

construction.

Building a third ice rink for the ice

hockey games may be over the top

for a city of Kraków’s size. An option

would be perhaps to construct an

arena with 15,000 seats in the nearby

city of Katowice/Sosnowiec instead.

It is also likely that Slovakia, with

a considerably stronger ice hockey

tradition than Poland, would want a

piece of the action.

The cross-country events are to be

held in Zakopane, and the beautiful

Tatra Mountains would form the

spectacular backdrop for all biathlon

and ski jumping competitions.

Zakopane has already applied to

host the 2019 FIS Nordic World

Ski Championship, which would

require either the construction of new

facilities or reconstruction of existing

venues. The slopes of Jurgowie, 20

km away, will see snowboarders race,

jump and battle for medals.

The location for speed skating and

tracks for luge and bobsledding are

critical topics still to be addressed,

as there are no existing arenas – and

the building of appropriate venues

for these sports is traditionally the

highest cost of any Winter Olympic

budget. In particular, the highly

specialised construction of a bobsled

track is a logistical and financial

headache. According to recent

discussions, a possible location is

Myślenice, 30 km south of Kraków.

The major obstacle in terms of venues,

however, is the alpine and freestyle

disciplines. There is nowhere in

Poland that could meet the Olympic

requirements for either of these

competitions. Therefore, they would

have to be held in the Slovakian skiing

resort of Chopok, 150 kilometres

south of Zakopane, the stumbling

block being the fact that the IOC (the

International Olympic Committee)

prefers the events to be hosted by the

same country.

Add to this the need for up to three

Olympic Villages, and the dream

becomes somewhat more distant.

InvestmentsThe Winter Olympics would

most certainly generate similar

infrastructural improvements that

Warsaw and the other host cities of

EURO 2012 benefited from.

Several investments are already well

underway, for example an upgrade

of the airport in Balice, Poland, just

outside of Kraków. There are plans

to improve public transportation

including the city’s first underground

subway line.

Kraków will face fierce

competition with expected bids

coming from Almaty, Beijing, Oslo, and

Lviv.

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Another necessary investment is

an upgrade to the transportation

system between the three Olympic

host centres, most importantly a

motorway from Kraków to Zakopane

– the existing Zakopianka road

is notoriously dreaded by drivers

heading south – and further to

Slovakia, where the high Tatra

Mountains provide a natural obstacle

for the construction of decent,

fast roads between Poland and

Slovakia. In addition, the regional

and local governments are planning

to construct a high-speed train that

would connect the future Olympic

Park (the AWF Park) with Kraków’s

railway station and Old Town.

Identifying venues and infrastructure

improvements is one thing; financing

the event is a different matter. It is

expected that the IOC will reimburse

up to 40% of the costs and that 20%

of the remaining budget will be

paid by Slovakia, corresponding to

the percentage of events to be held

there. Sponsors would make further

contributions, and some costs would

probably be reimbursed through EU

funds. Still, the cities involved would

be left with a hefty bill, notably for

infrastructure development and the

building of new arenas. Preliminary

official estimates show expenses of

around EUR 1.5 billion, a figure that is

likely to grow as the event approaches.

Having said that, it is not necessary to

go on a spending spree like 2014 hosts

Sochi in Russia (Sochi has already

spent EUR 37 billion – considerably

more than the cost of the much larger

summer Olympics held in Beijing

2008 and London 2012). As we have

seen, many venues are already being

constructed and the development of

the infrastructure is in process.

EnvironmentAlthough Kraków faces fierce

competition from cities such

as Stockholm, Oslo, Beijing &

Zhangjiakou, Almaty and Lviv one of

the biggest challenges lies within the

city of Kraków itself: the thick layer

of smog that covers the city in the

winter. The organisers of the bid have

made it known, however, that they

will fight to improve the air quality in

the city. This is a positive legacy that

would be enjoyed after the Olympic

circus has left the region, and highly

appreciated by both citizens and

tourists.

Keep dreamingMountains, finances and smog aside

– a clear advantage of the bid is the

fact that the region has never hosted

the Olympics before. It would be the

first Olympics not only in the Tatra

Mountains, but the first in Poland.

This is something the IOC pays great

attention to, and, according to the

organisers of the bid, is Krakow’s

largest advantage.

All things considered, we find it

justified to keep dreaming about the

Olympic flag flying over Kraków’s

main square Rynek.

Editorial Features

A shortlist ofcandidate cities

will be presentedin the summer of2014, before the

IOC makes the finaldecision in July

2015

The Tatra Mountains in southern Poland: A skiing paradise

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Visitnorway travel portal delivered by a multinational team in Kraków

One of the global travel industry´s most recognized and celebrated sites is Norway´s national tourism portal – Visitnorway.com. What is less well known is that many of the different language versions are delivered from Kraków. Specifically, from the newly renovated Ulica Asnyka

9, just around the corner from the Planty Park surrounding the UNESCO-protected Old Town.

In this elegant 19th century building

are the Polish offices of leading

Norwegian digital consultancy

Making Waves. Many of the 20 strong

Content Services team are based here,

and work daily with adaptation and

localization of web content into 11

different language versions.

This team of web editors are a truly

international group, hailing from

Austria, Spain, Denmark, Sweden,

Belgium, Russia, Italy and of course

Poland. VisitNorway is a good

example of how virtualization works

in practice, with a core team in Oslo,

Norway producing English and

Norwegian versions of the portal,

and then a complex web of digital

workflows managing daily tasks

across the whole team.

For local online campaigns in the

different national markets, each

Kraków-based editor also collaborates

closely with the Marketing manager

of Innovation Norway, located in

the respective country they are

responsible for.

Editorial Features

Can you actually learn about a country simply by

visiting an internet site and choosing one of its

many language versions? Angel explores how a

multinationam team from Kraków delivers content for a well known travel

portal.

by Angel Lopez Peiro

Visitnorway portal editorial team in Kraków.

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How did it all start?In 2011 Innovation Norway, the

Norwegian government’s official

trade and tourism body, and owner

of the Visitnorway portal, decided

to outsource the content production

activities that established early

versions of the portal.

Making Waves were the existing

supplier of design and technology

services to the portal and took

over the existing content team,

transferring their employment.

Whilst this covered English and

Norwegian languages, there was also

an agreement to establish the portal in

a number of other key languages, and

Kraków (where Making Waves already

had an office) was chosen as the

place to localize these services. Since

then, the team has expanded to cover

even more languages as well as some

other day to day support activities for

VisitNorway as well as a number of

regional tourist bodies in Norway.

Editorial Features

..a truly international

group, hailing fromAustria, Spain,

Denmark, Belgium,Sweden, Russia, Italy

and Poland.

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The Kraków team

In May 2011 four editors from Poland,

Spain, Italy and Russia joined Making

Waves and the Visitnorway project

in Kraków. The following month an

editor from Belgium came on board to

be responsible for the French version,

in October it was turn for an editor

from Austria in charge of the German

version, and in January and February

2012 two editors from Sweden and

Denmark arrived. Finally a Dutch

editor joined in September.

During the first months as the

multilingual team in Content Services

was being built, the translations and

text production that could not be yet

handled internally were ordered either

from a translation agency in Kraków

or received directly from Innovation

Norway in some cases. Today, all the

translations and text productions

needed for the 11 language editions

are handled internally at Making

Waves office in Kraków, including

from this July, Russian language

services.

The editors hired by Making Waves

to work in Kraków all have previous

experience and relevant backgrounds

as web editors, journalists, linguists,

PR and marketing management,

graphic design, web strategy,

international relations and tourism

in Poland, or, in most cases, their

country of origin. Some of the

editors were found using recruitment

services; others responded to online

job advertisements and applied

directly from their home countries, or

locally in Kraków.

Making Waves have managed to

establish a truly multinational team

with cultural and business experience

that covers every major European

market. Employing native editors

who are not only digitally skilled, but

passionate about travel, and sensitive

to the needs of travellers from their

own country has been a crucial part

of the project´s success over the

last three years. Innovation Norway

renewed their commitment to Making

Waves Content Services team for a

further 2 years from the start of this

year.

Work processes

Visitnorway editors in Kraków create

and update editorial content that

is localized from the international

version (Visitnorway.com). This

includes creating campaign content

for the local versions that promote

regions of Norway, activities. Editors

are also responsible for local versions

of the media and press pages of

the portal. The team of editors in

Kraków not only works with text

but also image selection, edition

and optimization, tagging of pages,

banners and video conversion and

encoding.

Every time a new page is created or

modified on the .com version the team

in Kraków is assigned a task to create

or change the content in the same way

on the local editions but localized to

the different markets for tourism to

Norway.

Editorial Features

Making Waves’ editors for Visitnorway are passionate about travel and digital communication

Visitnorway’s editorsin Kraków create

and update editorialcontent in manylanguages for the

Norwegian portal.

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When translating, the team in

Kraków uses Wordfast, a professional

translation software that helps ensure

quality and consistency throughout

the website, and across different

languages. The editors in Kraków play

a significant role in helping to evolve

content in the international version.

Making Waves’ editors in Kraków

work directly with Innovation Norway

regional offices located in London,

Moscow, New York, Paris, The

Hague, Madrid, Milan, Stockholm,

Copenhagen, Hamburg and Warsaw

to deliver effective campaigns

promoting various destinations

and tourism activities. Each local

Innovation Norway office is able to

create targeted campaigns to specific

audience segments. Campaigns can

be multimarket, and therefore multi-

language, or designed for single

markets. Campaigns are also seasonal.

Winter campaigns on Visitnorway

editions may focus on activities such

as visiting the northern lights, dog or

reindeer sledging, winter sports, or

promote special or unique places to

stay. Summer campaigns generally

promote summer activities such as

fjord cruising, sightseeing, kayaking,

hiking in Fjord Norway, Northern

Norway, Oslo and other regions of

Norway.

The editors for Visitnorway at Making

Waves Polska are also skilled in search

engine optimization, an increasingly

important part of managing content

on the web. Each web editor

periodically attends trainings,

seminars and prestigious courses on

translation, content management,

content strategy, SEO and web

analytics in Poland and abroad. Web

analytics reporting provides local

markets with an important feedback

on the performance of marketing

campaigns, as well as steering how

the site´s content should be tweaked

and adapted to better meet the

needs shown in users’ behaviour and

interaction with the site.

Editors are also responsible for the

lifecycle of content on the various

language editions of the portal. The

team of editors follow QA routines

designed to maintain content quality

and relevance at as high a level as

possible.

Visitnorway evolves in KrakówThe portal received a front page

facelift in October 2012, which allows

much more flexibility with new

embedded functionality such as full

screen slides, videos, maps. Since

September 2013, new page templates

make it easier for local language

editors to optimize campaigns for

their individual markets. The new

campaign template offers a richer

interface, gives campaign partners

better visibility and includes together

integration with the accommodation

booking engine that is a part of the

portal, so driving higher conversion

rates.

The editors have also been working

on a new template for reporting web

traffic trends, in order to provide more

detailed feedback on campaigns in the

various international markets.

Visitnorway can be accessed online in 12 different languages

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Making Waves: Eight years of local digital successby Angel Lopez Peiro feat. Hans Olav

Going global: Kraków as a top IT andoutsourcing hubInterview with Andrew Hallam (ASPIRE)

Making money in Kraków - how friendly is the city to foreign entrepreneurs?by Angel Lopez Peiro

Business

BusinessMap | Menu | Editorial | Business | Tourism | Krakow Living | Highlights | We Recommend | Gallery

Career Opportunities in Kraków

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Making Waves:

Eight years of digital success from Kraków

Business

The Norwegian technology & design consultancy Making Waves has been operating in Kraków with great success since 2005. The Polish branch has undergone significant growth regarding the number of employees and international projects. Making Waves Polska’s history began at an old building on Zyblikiewicza Street, then transitioned to Wygoda Street, and later moved to the Kraków Business Park in Zabierzów, 10 km from the city centre. Since January 2013, the company has been located in its own fully renovated heritage building on Asnyka Street. As a result, approximately 80 employees

work just a stone’s throw from Kraków’s beautiful Old Town.

Making Waves showcases what the city can provide foreign companies. For insight on this matter, as well as understanding how the company was established and developed in Kraków, there is nothing better than talking to Hans Olav Hellem - Director of People & Processes at Making Waves Group. From 2008-2009, he held the position of managing director at Making Waves Polska in Kraków. He lived in the city for over a year and

keeps traveling to Kraków very often.

Think Krakow: Why Poland and why Kraków? What led a Norwegian digital consultancy like Making Waves to open an office in Kraków, Poland?

by Angel Lopez Peiro

We saw huge potential after

Poland joined the EU, as we expected

Poland and Kraków would develop a lot.

Hans Olav Hellem

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HANS OLAV: Back in the early

2000s, Making Waves was a small

company in Norway with limited

funding. Our main concern was

hiring skilled people and experts. We

thought that it would be easier to find

customers in Norway than finding

skilled staff, especially developers.

Hiring skilled specialists in the IT

sector was difficult in Norway in the

period 2002-2005.

Why did we look at Poland? The

truth is that everything started when

we read a magazine article about

Poland. It indicated that Norwegian

companies coming to operate in

Poland would receive funding from

the Norwegian government. Poland

was to be a key country in receiving

contributions from the EU and

Norway. As a result, we decided to

arrange a meeting with the Norwegian

embassy in Warsaw, whereupon we

met with a trade attaché. Creating an outsourcing base for

Making Waves in Warsaw was our

first idea. In autumn 2004, Innovation

Norway, part of the Norwegian

Embassy, provided us with a three-

day tour of Warsaw. It was my first

time in a former Eastern Bloc country.

Warsaw was much bigger than we

expected, much more expensive than

what we initially thought (real estate

prices were too high for us), and

we learned that people in Warsaw

generally change jobs quite often.

The embassy then suggested we

consider Kraków, where their embassy

staff knew some real estate agents.

So we took the train from Warsaw to

Kraków. When we first arrived and

entered the Rynek (Market Square),

we felt this city seemed more suitable

for us. The Palace of Culture in

Warsaw did not feel friendly, whereas

the walk from the railway station to

the Rynek along Floriańska Street

was very appealing. We learned

about the city’s seemingly endless

supply of universities, the lower costs

as compared to Warsaw, and that

people do not change jobs as often as

in Warsaw. We agreed that Kraków

would be a better fit should we move

to Poland and set up an outsourcing

base. We spent some time looking at

buildings and office space.

We had several concerns in Kraków.

The buildings were in poor condition

outside of Rynek, and we wanted to

work in a building near Market Square

because we wanted to be part of the

development of the city. Another

key issue back then was the lack of

flight connections between Kraków

and Oslo: To fly between Oslo and

Kraków required a connecting flight

in Warsaw. Norwegian began offering

flights between Kraków and Oslo in

late 2005. That was great news for our

company.

We put an ad in Kraków’s local

newspapers, and we hired our first

three employees in Poland. My

Norwegian colleague Asbjørn Vølstad,

currently CTO at Making Waves,

interviewed the candidates. We took

the candidates to Norway, where they

lived for three months in order to help

get to know the Norwegian culture.

They then returned to Kraków.

We saw huge potential after Poland

joined the EU, as we expected Poland

would develop a lot. Not only was it

easier to hire exceptionally skilled

and well-educated IT developers in

Kraków than in Norway, they were

also less expensive to employ. Today,

Making Waves is one of the most

sought-after employers within our

We picked Krakówfor its appealingatmposphere, big

supply of universitiesand lower costs

compared to Warsaw.

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sector in Kraków. This is in a large

part due to our company’s culture, our

dedication to being “one company”

across borders, our terms of

employment, and our positive people

philosophy. T.K.: What was Kraków like when Making Waves settled here? How has the city changed since then?

H.O.: Back in 2005, Kraków was a different city: there were fewer cars, fewer flight connections, and it was visibly an Eastern European city. Now, however, it looks more like a Western city, if you take into account how people dress, the upscale Galeria Krakowska department stores, all the restaurants, the investment, the infrastructure and the business development going on.

People here are now more proud and confident of the development of the city and the country. In addition, Poles with experience from abroad or foreign markets began moving back to Poland and join the local work force, thanks to the fact that there are now many more foreign companies

established in Kraków. In addition, the city is far more foreign-friendly now than eight years ago; there is bilingual signage all around the city and many more people speak English.

T.K.: Would establishing a company in Kraków now be more expensive than back in 2005?

H.O.: Today we could never begin in Kraków like we did then, as we were a very small company and the operating costs are higher in Kraków now. Now it is harder to keep employees, as turnover rate in the sector is very high.

T.K.: What are the main challenges Making Waves has faced in Kraków since moving here?

H.O.: We did not succeed in our pursuit of the Polish market because our price rates were too high for local market. In many cases, price was the main factor for winning clients. We lost some money at the beginning, although we worked on

several interesting projects for Polish customers: Vattenfall Poland, Bank BZ WBK as well as Warsaw City Hall.We experienced many challenges with the renovation of our new office on Asnyka Street. First of all, we had to face the bureaucracy – it took a long time to get permits from the city’s authorities. Another challenge was the business culture with suppliers. Corporate integration also faced a challenge: At the beginning, the Kraków team felt like a B team and the fact that the A team was in Oslo did not help a one-company vision to develop in the Polish office. Fortunately, we successfully overcame this situation over time. Our teams in Oslo and Kraków are now more integrated than in the past.

In the past, some our Scandinavian clients requested that projects utilise project managers and consultants who spoke Norwegian. However, unlike many foreign companies in Kraków, the Making Waves team in Kraków is not simply an outsourcing resource.

Instead, we focus on the competence and availability of highly skilled staff

Business

Kraków is far moreforeign-friendlynow than eight

years ago; there isbilingual signage allaround the city andmany more people

speak English.

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who can build solutions and services to our clients from around the world. It is very common now that even teams based in Norway are comprised of non-Norwegians. Luckily for us, clients are now more accustomed to the international environment and multinational teams, so it is easier to explain to them that the project team is based both in Kraków and Oslo.

T.K.: What has Kraków offered to Making Waves throughout the last 8 years?

H.O.: Kraków has made us an international company. We are able to go with our offer to other countries now, we have an advantage over our Norwegian competitors, and we have more chances to gain international contracts. We now have a Content Services Department that delivers content in nine languages for the Visitnorway portal, which in Norway would have been quite difficult to achieve. As a result of our work in Kraków, we have learned many lessons.

In 2005 outsourcing was the main

idea before moving to Kraków. We developed a new strategy in 2010 that had the motto ‘A great place to work’. Now, at an operational level, both offices are important: the Choice Hotels, FIFA, Visitnorway and Visitoslo projects are run from Kraków.

In Kraków we can have access to highly skilled and specialized people. We can always choose the best people from among numerous candidates when we recruit employees. Another plus of working in Kraków is that we have become a more multicultural company. Our Polish office only has Polish employees but also has staff from Belgium, Austria, Italy, Spain, Sweden, Denmark, Norway, Netherlands, Israel and Russia.

We feel a sense of accomplishment with everything we have achieved in Kraków. Going to Kraków and seeing the office on Asnyka Street and the people working there makes me proud and happy. Norwegian employees are very happy about Kraków and our office here and of course they like the city and love to come here often.

T.K.: What are the plans for Making Waves operations in Kraków?

H.O.: Making Waves wants to expand to other markets. Kraków will be our hub for services to other markets around the world. The company will grow faster in Poland than in Norway, and our goal is to double the size of the company by the end of 2014. In principle, our priority for the Kraków office is hiring system developers, but we are also planning to hire strategy consultants and designers.

These are recruitment processes that

have already begun. See our job offers

on makingwaves.comWe are looking at companies in

Poland and the Polish market, and I

believe that in the near future we will

be more present on the Polish market

as the Polish economy is growing.

TK: What are the main differences between Oslo and Kraków in the business environment regarding public administration?

In Kraków we canhave access to highly

skilled people. We canalways choose the best

ones among manycandidates when werecruit employees.

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H.O.: Red tape is one of the biggest

differences between Norway and

Poland. In Poland there is a stamp

culture: stamps are required on

every document. The agreements are

more complex and need to be signed.

Because of this, all the business

processes are more bureaucratic.

In addition, bureaucrats in Kraków

are not as friendly as in Norway, they

don’t smile, and they still lack the

customer service approach which is

more common in Western Europe.

In comparing Norway and Poland in

this area, there is a lack of electronic

alternatives and e-services that would

make bureaucracy faster and easier.

Furthermore, there is no English

service at the administrative level for

foreign companies in Kraków.

In Norway there are different

criteria for choosing suppliers in

a competition or bidding process;

price is one of them, experience and

ability to deliver are others, whereas

in Poland price is usually the main

factor.

T.K.: Since you moved back to Oslo, what do you miss the most about living in Kraków?

H.O.: I miss the city life in Kraków;

walking on the charming old streets,

going to restaurants and eating in

their beautiful gardens, shopping

in small family-run independent

shops (there are not as many in

Oslo), biking around Kraków and

enjoying the cultural life in Old Town

and Kazimierz. I particularly miss

walking down the Wisła boulevards,

Old Podgórze and along the Kładka

Bernatka pedestrian bridge. I used to

cycle to Nowa Huta, a district I find

very interesting because of its very

distinctive architecture. I must say

that everywhere in Kraków I felt safe

and free to get around.

Red tape is oneof the biggest

differences betweenNorway and Poland.In Poland businessprocesses are more

bureaucratic.

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Going Global:

Kraków as top IT and outsourcing hub.

Angel Lopez Peiro interviews Andrew Hallam from ASPIRE

This year, Kraków entered the top 10 of Tholon’s Established Outsourcing Destinations in the world for the first time, confirming its place as a leading outsourcing centre not only in Europe but on a global scale.

The city’s IT and business process services industry accounts for 27,000 people

employed in 85 outsourcing companies in the city, and one of seven workers in the city’s private sector. 11% of the employees are foreigners, which gives an idea of the international scope of the business processes delivered from Kraków.

With the aim of analysing the current

situation and peeking into the future,

Think Kraków interviewed Andrew

Hallam, founder and general secretary

of ASPIRE (Association of IT &

Business Process Services Companies

in Poland). ASPIRE aims to promote

and develop opportunities within IT

and business process services.

How did Kraków make it to the top 10 destinations in the world for outsourcing?

ANDREW HALLAM: Good fortune

and momentum. There were a number

of fortuitous events, stretching back

many years, which helped to establish

Kraków globally. For example, BP

sold a major project to IBM, and

International Paper another one

to Capgemini, and this meant that

Kraków had two global outsourcing

projects by the year 2000.

In 2013 Kraków advanced to the

top 10 global business processing

outsourcing destinatinations.

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Simultaneously, and the city

authorities deserve to be credited for

this, the first special economic zone

was created here in 1999, allowing

Motorola to establish operations in

the city.

Big brands attract other brands.

Existing businesses became natural

ambassadors and functioned as a

testament that it is safe to locate

to Kraków. What I call Kraków’s

“clientability” is also connected to the

city’s legacy: universities with good

reputations, thousands of students,

the market square, the old town and

the tourism infrastructure.

There were also local IT companies here early on, before the arrival of large, foreign outsourcing companies. Comarch,

for example, a Polish IT company

founded in 1995, has developed

internationally by drawing talent from

AGH (the Academy of Science and

Technology).

Another thing that has benefited

Kraków is the location. With Poland’s

accession to the EU and the open

skies policies, a bunch of airlines

started to operate into Kraków Balice

Airport which made it easy to travel to

Kraków from the rest of Europe. The

migration of Poles in Western Europe

spread the message – Poles were

employed abroad and did a good job.

Companies are often reluctant to

relocate to a new place, but they have

to believe it is possible to maintain

quality. We are developing a new

paradigm in Kraków for the industry.

Once you have operated here for two

years and it works, and the quality of

the people you employ here is really

high, it becomes possible to think

of more complex processes that you

can move to Kraków. Transactional

processes were moved to India but

more complex processes relocated to

Kraków.

The city has many of the qualities

of a capital city without some of the

disadvantages of a capital city. We are

competing for talent in Kraków but

only within our sector, not with other

industries. We have a lower cost base

here, 30% lower than in Warsaw for

instance.

Dublin, as a contrast, has the

disadvantages of a capital city even

though Ireland is a small country.

Nevertheless, Dublin has many of Kraków’s features and a capacity to attract talent from abroad. In this sense, Kraków

has more in common with Dublin

than with Wrocław or Gdansk. Only

cities and locations have this ability

to attract – we cannot talk about

countries.

How can Kraków reach Dublin and enter the top 5?

A.H.: The difference with Dublin

was much bigger in the past than it is

now. Ireland suffered a lot from the

financial crisis in a way that Poland

escaped. Over the last few years,

Dublin has dropped from 4th to 9th

position, whereas Kraków has gone

from 17th to 10th – so the evolution

trends of Kraków and Dublin are

Kraków has more incommon with Dublinthan with Wrocław orGdańsk. This is why it is in the top 10 global

list.

Cracovia Business Centre: one of the largest A class office space complex in Kraków centre.

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Olsza: a district of Kraków with many outsourcing firms and considerable office spacedevelopment

Kraków Business Park in Zabierzów, on the outskirts of the city

Treimorfa tower & office complex, to be completed in 2015. Source: Verity Development

opposite. I believe that Dublin will

recover at some point, but I am also

sure that Kraków can overtake Dublin

with time.

We need to move forward and reach

out to stakeholders. We need to

raise awareness of the industry and

present the opportunity as a common

vision. The advantage of Dublin is its

proximity to London and better flight

connections. Kraków needs more

effective connections with cities like

Istanbul, Paris, New York, London,

Prague and Dubai. There is no direct

connection with London Heathrow,

for example.

I think sustainability is how we can

overtake Dublin. We have a self-

regulating market where supply meets

demand. We are currently running

out of office spaces and this becomes

opportunity for real estate developers.

Kraków is very competitive compared to many cities in Europe. The momentum I

mentioned earlier makes a difference,

as does the fact that businesses are

taking the lead in Kraków. We are not

lobbying but have rather established

an association around self-help and

mutual support.

We present opportunities instead of

asking others to make them happen.

Promoting the industry and leading

the industry: this is unique. One

reason it works effectively in Kraków

is that the institutions are old and

well established. It would benefit the

industry to cooperate even more with

the city and local society.

What is the growth perspective in terms of job offers in Kraków?

A.H.: We expect an increase of 20-

25% in the number of employees per

year. Over the last couple of years,

companies in our industry have

experienced a growth of 25% new

staff.

We have an ecosystem that supports

complexity and this will enable us

to grow in terms of quality and key

selling.

How did you end up in Kraków? How long have you been in the industry?

A.H.: I first came here in 1988

around Christmas, while I was

working on TV news with Polish

people in London. In 1989 I came

back with Sky News to make a

documentary about a returning Polish

solider, for the 50th anniversary of the

start of World War II.

It was so different from UK; it

was very attractive and I was very

attracted by the people. At that time,

Kraków had hardly any public life

but there was a rich private life that

I found very appealing. I moved here

with my wife in 1995. We built a house

Kraków has many ofthe qualities of a capital

city without some ofthe disadvantages of a

capital city...

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and then I found my way; I started

working for the British Chamber

of Commerce and then I founded

ASPIRE, where I have been working

since 2006.

How has the international perception of Kraków changed over the last decade, in terms of business investments?

A.H.: “Clientability” is what the city

has developed. Kraków has become

more attractive and continental

whilst retaining its own character,

atmosphere and heritage. I think it is

a personal rather than an institutional

thing.

How have salaries, and salary expectations, changed within the industry in Kraków?A.H.: If you look for a trend, you

can see that salaries are rising in line

with inflation and expectations, but

obviously at certain times there is a lot

of demand, and the offered salary will

be higher.

People working in the industry expect

continuously higher rewards, but if

they went to other parts of Europe

they would understand that they

are lucky to be here. It could also be

worth noting that Kraków is not more

expensive than other Polish cities.

Some companies are trying to pull

out the most talented, highly qualified

people for management positions

in other locations in Europe, even

though it would be cheaper to keep

them here.

If you were elected mayor of Kraków what would you change in the city?

A.H.: Focusing on the business sector, the most important thing is that the industry is included in the vision for Kraków. We

are providing high quality jobs and

delivering value to the city, even

more than the tourism sector. 64%

of employees in our industry are

graduates from local universities. The

City Council needs to recognise our

role and fund certain initiatives.

If we translate this into actions:

There ought to be a master plan to build a central business district, which would facilitate

locating people.

Transport infrastructure – there is

a good public transport network in

Kraków, but it could be developed to

take into account the needs of people

who commute to work at the big

business centres.

We need to improve the airport. I

am aware that they are working on

it already with the construction of

the new terminal, but we also need

to improve the connections from the

airport.

The city administration should support Kraków in becoming a more international city. We

need more English in the paperwork

processes.

For too long, Kraków was fading away, and this is still

The city administrationshould support Kraków

in becoming a moreinternational city.

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The dragon: could Kraków’s landmark legend become a symbol of the city’s new economic performance?

reflected in the mentality of many people. Local people are not

necessarily aware of how Kraków is

getting an international image. We

need to recover a degree of confidence

in the potential of the city from

our mayor, and promote Kraków

positively but aggressively. I would

like to see more promotion of the

dragon as a symbol of Kraków, for

example. It is a powerful image and

we can draw out the symbolism to

build a future.

We also need to organize more

international festivals; most of the

festivals in Kraków are too provincial

and only of interest for Polish people.

Kraków could learn from Edinburg

how to promote what is happening

in the city. The organizers of festivals

here have a lot to learn. Many local

cultural institutions take their

audience for granted; they think it is

95% Catholic white Polish but it is in

fact much more diverse.

I love the potential of the city. Kraków is a work in progress

built on its legacy. However, the

City Council needs to understand

its role as one of many players in

Kraków, not the most important one.

What do you like the most about living in Kraków?

A.H.: I love the atmosphere and

the way the city is laid down, so

that everything radiates from the

market square. When I arrived here

for the first time very few people

had a telephone and instead the

market square Rynek functioned as

a communication centre. Kraków is a living museum with a living history. The statue of Adam Mickiewicz on

the market square, for example, is not

only a statue but a key meeting point

for people.

What do you think about Kraków bidding for Winter Olympics? Is it a worthy investment?

A.H.: I think sporting events like

this can benefit the city. Whether the

Winter Olympics is the right event

I don’t know, but everything that is

about building experience can benefit

the city and the industry. The 2012

UEFA EURO cup in Poland and

Ukraine was a great opportunity for

such an experience and it was a pity

that Kraków was not selected as a

venue. Still, Kraków’s role as team

base camp was very successful.

How do you see Poland’s economic future?

A.H.: I think Poland’s future is bright, mainly because of its location between Russia and Germany. Geopolitically it is great

to be on the border of the EU – also in

terms of trade with the United States.

However, this can also bring dangers

in the future as it happened in the

past.

If the rest of Poland can learn from Kraków in terms of international success, the country will thrive economically.

Kraków could learnfrom Edinburg, for

example, how topromote what is

happening in the city.

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Making money in Kraków – how friendly is the city to foreign entrepreneurs?

by Angel Lopez Peiro

One might think that a difficult foreign language, a different business culture, rents and bureaucratic procedures are reasons to prevent foreign entrepreneurs from developing their

business ideas in Kraków. Not everyone, however, is deterred by challenges and many have managed to start successful, local businesses. A good example is 34-year-old Alejo Torreblanca Leiva from Chile. He an experienced chef who opened the Spanish restaurant Valparaíso, named after his home region, in the trendy quarter of Kazimierz inAugust 2012.

How did you end up in Kraków?

I met my wife, who is Polish, when I

lived in Barcelona. I had been living in

Spain since 1998.

We moved to Kraków in March 2012,

when we were expecting a baby,

so that we would be closer to her

parents. I worked as a cook in the

Argentinian-Czech restaurant Diego i

Bohumil until I decided it was time to

invest our savings and start my own

business. In August 2012 one of my

dreams came true when Valparaíso

started serving Spanish food and

wine.

How would you describe the process of opening a business in Kraków, compared to Spain or Chile?

It is cheaper, and now it is also

easier, to start a business in Poland

compared to Spain. Everything

is expensive in Spain, even small

repairs and improvements for your

restaurant. However, in Spain it

takes less time to recover the initial

investment, if the restaurant is going

well – or at least this was the case

Valparaiso restaurant in Kazimierz quarter

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until recently.

In Chile running this kind of business

would involve more expenses because

you need to spend a lot of money

on safety systems (alarms, cameras,

security officers and insurance).

How did you overcome the language barrier?

Luckily my wife could help me

with the paperwork and other

administrative tasks.

Would you have managed to open your restaurant without your Polish wife?

It would have been much more

difficult without her. The language is

definitely one of the biggest obstacles

for foreign entrepreneurs in Kraków.

In order to handle the paperwork and

commercial activities, you need help

from people who speak Polish. Even

writing the menu on the blackboard

is a challenge without my Polish

assistants.

How friendly is Kraków for foreigners? How friendly is Kraków for running a small business?Kraków is very friendly, both for

foreigners and for running a small

business. I have never had any

problems here. I guess it depends on

the sector but at least in the hotel and

catering sector, Kraków is a great city.

Of course the success of your business

in Kraków will depend on your

philosophy and way of doing things.

Generally, in Poland things work fast,

much faster than in Spain and Chile.

People here are committed and work

hard.

I think one of the main challenges for

those who want to start a business in

the city is the high rents, especially

in the Old Town and in the trendiest

areas of Kazimierz such as Plac Nowy.

Those who own commercial property

in the touristic areas are making very

good business.

What is your worst experience in dealing with Polish authorities?

I don’t have many complaints about

the Polish authorities, although I

experienced a corruption case once.

A health inspector who came to my

restaurant for an inspection made up

a fault (related to one of my freezers

being open at a particular moment)

and forced me to pay her PLN 150 to

avoid an official fine.

What are the main cultural differences between Chile, Spain and Poland that forced you to adjust your living style and way of working?

As I said, things generally work

much faster here than in Spain and

Chile, and employees are committed,

responsible and honest. I would also

like to point out that people in Poland

do not complain as much as in Spain.

A problem I encounter when I serve

the lunch menu is that some of my

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customers are in a hurry and I want

my guests to enjoy their food and wine

calmly, without rushing.

How do you promote the restaurant in Kraków?

I promote the restaurant through

our website and above all, through

our Facebook page. But the best

promotion is to cook well and

offer a good service, so that your

customers say positive things about

the restaurant after eating here. Most

people come to my restaurant because

a friend recommended it to them.

I also had some unexpected and free

advertising when Wojciech Nowicki,

a renowned food critic, came to the

restaurant last September and wrote

a flattering review for Gazeta.pl. In

the following weeks, the restaurant

experienced a dramatic increase of

customers even if the effect was not

long-lasting.

Do you meet up with other foreigners, Spaniards or South Americans in Kraków?

I meet with other foreigners,

Spaniards and South Americans from

time to time, in the weekly language

exchange meeting called Café Madrid

and the Latin music club El Sol, but I

also have friends from other countries

like Italy, Portugal and Angola.

What do you enjoy the most about living in Kraków?

One of them is the tranquillity.

Kraków is a calm and peaceful city,

especially compared to Barcelona. I

also like that things work well here

and that Polish people are committed

to what they do.

I live in Wieliczka, which is a very

beautiful town. It is great to be able

to combine the beauty and calm of

Wieliczka with Kraków, where I spend

most of my time due to work.

If you were elected mayor of Kraków, what would you change in the city?

I would try to solve the air pollution

issue – sometimes when I walk

around Kraków there is a strong

smell of coal, and when I drive from

Wieliczka to Kraków in the winter I

can see a thick layer of pollution over

the city.

What do you think about Kraków bidding for Winter

Olympics and how do you think it would affect a small business like yours?

I think it is a great idea. Kraków would

definitely benefit from organising

such an important event as the Winter

Olympics.

Barcelona is a modern city and a

popular tourist destination thanks

to the promotion related to the 1992

Summer Olympics. Hosting the

Olympics would increase the number

of visitors to Kraków from around

the world and this would result in

increased revenue for hotels, bars,

clubs and, of course, restaurants like

Valparaíso.

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User experience & Graphic design Project Management

Web Technology Web Content Services

at: Making Waves

at: Making Waves

With a growing number of international companies operating from Kraków, there are plenty of work opportunities for both Polish residents and expats. The IT and business processing outsourcing sectors offer a wide range of positions for professionals speaking English or other languages. Many jobs do not require Polish language skills.

When looking for a job in Kraków, a good place to start is of course the internet and websites such as Linkedin.com, recruitment agencies like devonshire.pl, cpljobs.pl and HAYS, or the local site pracuj.pl (only in Polish but with ads and some information in English).

For opportunities within the IT industry, it is a good idea to monitor the job boards at companies like wirtualnemedia.pl, interaktywnie.com, ASPIRE jobs and makingwaves.pl.

Making Waves regularly employs web professionals from Poland and abroad. Their Kraków office currently has staff from the UK, Austria, Italy, Spain, Belgium, the Netherlands, Sweden, Norway, Denmark and Russia.

Business

Career opportunities in KrakówHere is a sample listing of typical positions available in Kraków for English speaking professionals in the digital industry.

Graphic Designer

Interaction Designer

at: Making Waves at: Making Waves

at: Making Waves at: Making Waves

at: Making Waves at: Making Waves

at: Making Waves at: Making Waves

at: Making Waves at: Making Waves

at: Making Waves

Sharepoint Developer English - GermanTranslator & Copywriter

Senior .NET Developer Native English WebCopywriter

Front-end Developer Dutch Web Editor

.NET Developer Senior Project Manager

Web Developer Swedish Native WebEditor - Freelace Contract

Junior Developer inExtended Support team

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TourismKraków’s royal route: A photogallery

Kraków & Warsaw: A tale of two capitalsby Michał Steckiw

Down in one? Discover the delights of Polish vodkaby Anja Wedberg

Top 5 hidden treasures: Kraków off the beaten trackby Jens Markussen

A day in Communist Kraków: In the footstepsof Lenin and Fidel Castroby Angel Lopez Peiro

Vegard recommends: The seven wonders of Krakówby Vegard Tverberg

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Tourism: The royal route

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by Michal J. Steckiw

From castles to skyscrapers, Poland’s two major cities offer an entirely different experience. Enjoy Kraków for its bars and restaurants located on magical old streets below the city’s gothic and renaissance heritage landmarks. Jump on a train

to Warsaw to explore Poland’s vibrant, colourful and cosmopolitan capital and to see how the country developed from the ashes of War World II to become one of the world’s new globalized economies.

In many countries, one can find two

major metropolitan cities competing

with each other in the In many

countries, one can find two major

metropolitan cities competing with

each other in the areas of economic

activity, human development, cultural

heritage, and internationalization:

Barcelona and Madrid (Spain),

Montreal and Toronto (Canada),

Melbourne and Sydney (Australia),

Berlin and Frankfurt (Germany), and

Moscow and St Petersburg (Russia).

Poland and its key cities have become

more globalized. According to the

latest Ernst & Young ranking (2012

Globalization Index), Poland is now

the 27th most globalized economy,

surpassing even Italy, South

Korea and Japan. So now a closer

examination of the branding and

development of Poland’s two major

cities becomes even more interesting:

Warsaw (capital and economic centre

of Poland) and Kraków (former

capital and seat of Polish royalty).

Kraków was the capital of Poland until

the mid-17th century, when King Jan

III Waza moved his seat to Warsaw.

Kraków, however, remained the main

royal residence, the place where all

monarchs were crowned and buried

in the royal cathedral on Wawel Hill.

Warsaw flourished in subsequent

centuries, whereas the role of Kraków,

still referred to as Royal Capital City

of Kraków, diminished. The political,

economic and cultural heart of the The National Stadium in Warsaw, built for the EUFA 2012 championship

Kraków and Warsaw:

A tale of two capitals

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The royal castle on the Wawel Hill in Kraków - Poland’s Acropolis

Rynek - the main market square in Kraków

nation shifted to the new capital.

After War World II, Kraków became

Poland’s second-largest city, the only

one that did not suffer destruction

following the invasions of Germany

and Soviet Union. Kraków’s Old Town was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The city

became the cultural and academic

heart of Poland, at the time when

Warsaw was rising to life from the

ashes of destruction.

Warsaw used to be a grey, soulless city similar to many in the former Soviet Union. It became the colourful, vibrant cosmopolitan capital.

When Poland embarked on its

transformation from communism

to a market economy, the capital

of Warsaw was still quite a grey,

soulless city, similar to many in

the former Soviet Union. Since the

fall of the communism, both cities

have experienced an enormous

transformation; ever since Poland

joined the EU, investment has

exploded even further. Both cities

took different development directions.

Kraków focused on renovating its historic districts and heritage landmarks, strengthening its academic centres, and developing strong IT and digital industries.

It was referred to as the tourist and

cultural heart of Poland, home of the

former Pope John Paul II and the

religious soul of the nation. In the

1990s, local authorities and elites

focused on the city’s existing strong

brand and its position rather than

visioning its future development.

At the same time, Warsaw became one of the fastest growing economies of any city in Europe. Its skyline was filled with a range of

modern skyscrapers, and the city was

flooded with international companies

and expats. Thus, the character of

Poland’s most globalized metropolis

has been transformed.

Kraków isintimate, charming

and bohemian.Warsaw becamecosmopolitan,

monumental andmodern.

Warsaw became one of the fastest growing

economies of any city in Europe.

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Left: Warsaw’s Old Town was rebuilt after World

War II. Warsaw’s city centre is the economic heart

of Poland and the financial centre of East and

Central Europe.

Right: Central Warsaw is dominated by the Palace of Culture and Science - a “gift” from Stalin to communist Poland

The biggest advantages Kraków holds are its compact size, beauty of its architecture, its reputation around the world.The city is known for its restaurants

and bar scene, its relatively low cost

of living and visiting, and the flood of

young people coming to study each

year.

Warsaw, however, remains the

financial heart both of Poland and the

Central and Eastern European region.

It offers the best opportunities for

virtually every industry, especially for

international companies operating

in the region. Warsaw became a

colourful, dynamic and cosmopolitan

city, whereas Kraków remained first

and foremost a traditional Polish city

with aspirations to be recognized

around the world for its advantages in

tourism, sports, IT and outsourcing.

Warsaw is the first region in

Warsaw is the political, economic and financial

heart of Poland.

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Kraków’s Old Town: A UNESCO World Heritage Site.that attracts over seven million tourists every year

Poland to have been excluded from EU development funds, as the region’s GDP per capita surpassed the 75% EU average. The construction of a second subway

line in Warsaw is leading to a rise

in the number of old and neglected

buildings being revitalized.

It is probably the most American

looking city in Europe, with wide

streets criss-crossing the city, a

typical downtown concentration of

skyscrapers, and a large suburban

area.

On the other hand, some of the

reasons why international investors

choose to come to Kraków include

the range of real estate opportunities,

an expanding business services and

IT sector, the emerging digital start-

up community, and its cutting edge

research facilities. In the digital/

IT area, most companies operating

in Kraków focus on international

customers, whereas the ones in

Warsaw operate mostly on the Polish

market.

Warsaw is associated with a fast-paced life, modern architecture, growth, economic development, progress and its increased cultural

impact on the country. Its cultural

output surpasses that of Kraków,

yet Kraków remains Poland’s main

destination for leisure and cultural

tourism.

Kraków remains Poland’s

main destination forleisure and cultural

tourism.

Key things to seeand explore in...

WarsawThe Warsaw Uprising Museum

The Old Town, the Royal Castle and Nowy Swiat Street

Lazienki Royal Park and Wilanów Palace

Downtown and the Palace of Culture

The National Stadium

Nightlife at Foksal Street

Museum of the history of Polish Jews

The royal route to Wawel Castle

Kazimierz, the Jewish medieval quarter

Schindler’s Factory Museum

Wieliczka Salt Mine

Kraków nightlife in the Old Town,Kazimierz and Old Podgórze

The ‘Kładka’ Bridge andthe banks of the Wisła River

Kraków

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Down in One? Discover the delights of Polish vodka.

by Anja Wedberg

Some of the finest vodka in the world is produced in Poland, and yet, whilst just about everyone has heard of Smirnoff, Finlandia and Absolut, many would probably struggle to name a Polish brand. For visitors, the variety

of the vodka menus you find in most bars can be perplexing. Let us help you find your feet in the vodka wilderness.

The origins of vodka may be obscure,

but it is clear that it has been

produced in Poland for over 500

years. Large-scale vodka production

began at the end of the 16th century,

initially at Kraków.

Today, Poland is one of the largest

vodka producers in the world (along

with Russia, Lithuania and Ukraine).

One of the main differences between

Russian and Polish vodka is that the

former is usually made from potato,

the latter most often from grains such

as rye. Polish vodkas can be further

divided into clear and flavoured

varieties.

You don’t have to spend many hours

in Poland to see that vodka is an

integral part of Polish culture, history

and society. It is the obvious choice

of drink at any social gathering, most

shops stock an astonishing variety of

brands and every self-respecting bar

has a separate vodka menu.

So where does one start? We went to

Kraków’s eminent Wódka bar and café

to learn from the experts.

My first choice at the Wódka bar is a

shot of Zubrówka Palona, a variety

of Poland’s biggest export brand.

While standard Zubrówka is distilled

with bison grass that gives it a pale

amber colour and a slightly sweet

flavour, the less known Zubrówka

Palona is a brown vodka with more

than a hint of cherry, almond and

caramel.

“Down in one, is that how to do it?”

I ask Maciej, bartender and vodka

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connoisseur. Maciej looks at me with

horror. “No! Not this one!” and goes

on to explain that the flavoured ones

are meant to be enjoyed by sipping -

only some types of vodka, notably the

clear ones, are best consumed in one.

I have to say this is quite a relief to

hear.

Zubrówka Palona is perfectly balanced

with a clear but not overpowering

scent of cherry. As for standard

Zubrówka, the most common way

to enjoy it is the cocktail Tatanka,

which is made with apple juice and

cinnamon – a match made in heaven.

Another classic vodka with a long

tradition is the extraordinary

Goldwasser, dating back to the 17th

century in Gdansk. Distilled with

aniseed, honey and herbs and – yes –

gold flakes. Real gold flakes, floating

around in the glass. I bet you have

never tasted anything like it – it has a

distinctive, almost perfume-like taste.

And whilst the gold flakes may not

add much in terms of flavour, they

certainly add to the feeling.

Goldwasser is far from the only

extraordinary experience in Polish

vodka bars. An interesting, to say

the least, drink is the well-known

Mad dog – a layered shot made with

raspberry syrup, clear vodka and

tabasco. By all means, please note that

the Mad dog is not something that

can be ”enjoyed by sipping”. Bottoms

up with this one – the soothing

raspberry juice will save you from the

initial shock of the tabasco. Another

exhilarating concoction is Krupnik

z kawe – honey vodka and coffee

beans set on fire, then drunk quickly

through a straw. Quite a sensation.

A mellow but flavoursome vodka,

and in my view one of the absolute

highlights of Polish vodka, is Soplica

orzech laskowy (hazelnut vodka – ask

for hazelnut vodka and milk for an

even softer, dreamy combination). An

equally nutty but less sweet option

is the delicious Nisskoscher gorzka

orzechowa (walnut vodka), which can

also serve as the base for a Polish style

pina colada. On chilly days, ask for a

hot vodka grogg made with krupnik

(honey vodka), cloves and lemon.

Among the fruity varieties on offer,

pear is particularly recommended.

Of course there is plenty to discover

in terms of clear vodka, too. The

connoisseur will not miss the

opportunity to indulge in Chopin

(one of few potato-based Polish

vodkas), the new “white whiskey”

Kozuba or Maciej’s personal favourite,

a shot of unfiltered Beldevere, served

ice cold in a frosty glass for a modest 9

złotys (3,5 cl).

Wódka bar and café facts

Established: 2004

Number of vodkas on offer: around 100

Most popular brand: Wyborowa

Most expensive brand: Graygoose

Vodka tasting sessions: Ten small shots for 35 złotys

Prices: Prices quoted were correct at the time of writing.

N.B. Overconsumption of alcohol can be lethal. Please drink responsibly and enjoy your vodka with typical Polish bar snacks such as pickled cucumber, herring, pierogi (filled pasta), kielbasa (sausage) and gołobki (stuffed cabbage). Na zdrowie, as they say here (“to health”).

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Top 5 hidden treasures:

Kraków off the beaten track

by Jens Markussen

Escape the tourist crowds of the Old Town, Kazimierz and the Wawel Castle.We have handpicked some of our favourite places in Kraków – places that visitors may not know about and that make us feel like locals. Check them out!

Plac Imbramowski

With the bustling atmosphere of a

traditional bazaar, Plac Imbramowski

is a refreshing alternative to modern

super- and hypermarkets. Small-scale

farmers from the villages outside of

Kraków have been coming to this

outdoor market to sell their locally

produced goods since the 1950s. At

the 2,100 m2 large square you will

find more than 100 covered market

shops, plus a number of traders

selling their goods from the boots of

their vans or from hastily arranged

spots around the entrances.

Fruit and vegetables straight from the

fields, locally produced Polish meat

and poultry, fresh fish, dairy products,

baked goods and sweets as well as

clothing and footwear, furniture and

electronic gadgets are some of the

things visitors come here to buy.

Everything is sold at the cheapest

prices, and yet there is usually a fair

amount of haggling going on.

There are plenty of seasonal goods on

offer: try the perfectly ripe raspberries

in the summer, handpicked only a few

hours earlier, or the delicious, mouth-

watering apples in the autumn. Of

course you can also expect heaps of

Christmas decorations, Easter eggs

and other seasonal items depending

on the time of year.

Plac Imbramowski is located in

Prądnik Biały in the northern part of

Kraków, close to the busy intersection

of the main road between Zakopane

and Warszawa and the northern east-

west bypass.

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ZakrzówekThe recreational area of Zakrzówek is

one of the most beloved green spots in

a city often covered in a layer of grey

smog. A short 20-minute walk from

the crowds at Wawel Castle will take

you to this hidden treasure – in fact so

hidden that some people believe it is

just a myth.

But Zakrzówek, and its 32 metre deep

blue lagoon, is indeed real. Just be

careful – the former limestone quarry

may appear perfect for a dive on a

hot summer day, the rocks forming

natural platforms from where to jump

– but it is not recommended (and

possibly illegal) to swim here. The

high cliffs make it notoriously difficult

to get dry land under the feet again.

Several deaths since the quarry was

flooded in 1990 sadly prove this.

Instead of taking part in any law-

breaking or life-risking activities, stick

to admiring the view and taking in the

sun at top of the cliffs.

Or go for a stroll in the beautiful

surrounding forest with cliffs of

limestone, a varied wildlife and good

walking and cycling paths. Make sure

you go sooner rather than later though

– the nearby residential area of Ruczaj

is currently under development,

threatening the future existence of

Zakrzówek. Zakrzówek is located in

the district of Debniki close to Ruczaj,

south of the river Wisła.

Cmentarz RakowickiCmentarz Rakowicki is one of

Poland’s best known cemeteries and

the biggest in Kraków.

Visiting a cemetery may not be the

funniest way to spend an afternoon,

but Cmentarz Rakowicki is of great

historical, architectural and artistic

value with grand chapels and

mausoleums, enormous family tombs,

impressive funerary statutes and

thousands of gravestones.

Since the cemetery was established

in 1803, it has been expanded several

times and now occupies an area over

400,000 m2. The architectural variety

and the numerous languages engraved

on the gravestones bear testament to

the turbulent history of Poland.

The most interesting day to pay a

visit is no doubt on All Saints Day (1

November). On this dark autumn day,

Poles all over the country head to the

cemeteries to tidy the graves and light

candles in memory of the dead and

departed. The candles light up the

gravesites, creating a spectacular sight

of flickering lights as the night falls.

Even though thousands of people

gather at Cmentarz Rakowicki this

day, it is in fact a peculiarly quiet

event with a respectful atmosphere.

Cmentarz Rakowicki is located just

north of the city centre, with the main

entrance at Ulica Rakowicka 26.

Kopiec KrakusaThe 15 metre high, man-made

Kopiec Krakusa mound was erected

in honour of prince Krakus, the

legendary founder of Kraków. It is

the oldest of the city’s four remaining

prehistoric mounds.

Zakrzówek is a 32metre deep blue

lagoon in a formerlimestone quarry.

Zakrzówek recreational area.

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From the top of the grass-covered

hill you have a wonderful 360 degree

panoramic view of Kraków. There

is also a perfect view of the now

abandoned Liban Quarry, which

was used as a cruel penal camp by

the Nazis during the Second World

War. It is possible to climb down to

the bottom of the quarry to explore

the ruins of old refinery equipment.

Just a word of caution: the structures

at the bottom of the quarry may be

unsafe, and be sure to watch out for

barbed wire. If you do venture down

there, you will find a curious mix of

genuine artefacts and movie props –

Steven Spielberg shot some scenes of

Schindler’s List here, and parts of the

movie set were left behind.

A good time to climb Kopiec Krakusa

is on the Tuesday immediately after

Easter, when Kraków celebrates

Święto Rękawki. This medieval

festival presents an opportunity to

experience what life was like in the

Middle Ages, complete with sword

fight demonstrations, authentic

costumes and craft displays. You can

also sample some tasty food, prepared

according to ancient recipes.

Kopiec Krakusa is located on Lasota

Hill in Stare Podgórze, south of the

river Wisła.

Fort Kleparski- Bastion IIIThere are a number of fortresses

built by the Austrians in the 18th

and 19th centuries scattered around

Kraków. One of the most interesting

is the Bastion III Kleparz, also known

as Fort Kleparski, which was built

between 1856-1866.

Fort Kleparski is the only fortress of

its kind still in its original location.

It has remained largely unscathed,

as other forts further away from the

city were the first points of contact

with the enemy. In fact, it was never

involved in any real fights or battles

and thus mainly used as a storage

facility.

Those who find this fortress – it is

easily overlooked as the walls are

partly hidden by the trees of the

surrounding Park Kleparski – can

enjoy a modern wine cellar and a

popular night club (Forty Kleparz,

highly recommended!). It is expected

to be further occupied by a hotel and

conference centre in the future.

There are a number of fortresses built by Austrians in the 18th

and 19th century around Kraków

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A tour with Crazy Guides is the main highlight of a perfect day in communist Kraków

by Angel Lopez Peiro

A day in communist Kraków:

In the footsteps of Lenin and Fidel CastroGet away from capitalism for one day and experience true communist

Kraków by following our itinerary. Discover Kraków’s communist heritage.

Just like Berlin, Kraków is a city with

many significant ties to communism.

Vladimir Lenin lived here between

1912 and 1914 and loved to hang out

with local Polish intellectuals. After

WWII following Stalin’s orders,

construction of a socialist-realist

steelworks city on the outskirts

of Kraków began in 1949. Cuba’s

revolutionary leader Fidel Castro

visited Kraków in 1972. Most Soviet

Union leaders visited the city, too.

Today, many places in Kraków

allow you to travel back in time to

experience the atmosphere of the

PRL (People’s Republic of Poland,

1945-1989) and give you insight into

communist society and its lifestyle.

We encourage you to discover all of

these places in a single day and hence

enjoy the ultimate Kraków communist

Experience. You just need to follow

this itinerary:

8.00 am Breakfast at the milk bar “Bar Mleczny” at Grodzka 43 street

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Fidel Castro was thrilled by Kraków’s socialist-

realist district during his visit in 1972

Eating in a milk bar is a must for any

visitor to Kraków and a great way to

start your intense communist day.

You should know that the first milk

bar in history opened in Kraków’s

Market Square in 1948 at the corner

with Sienna Street. Initially this

first milk bar did not serve warm

dishes, and you could only drink

milk there. Owned by the communist

government, this kind of bar aimed at

popularizing the consumption of milk

due to a surplus of dairy products in

Poland.

Since most traditional restaurants

were being taken over by the state and

were eventually closed down by PRL

authorities, milk bars mushroomed

across the country and began offering

cheap meals to the workers. In some

cases, meals at the local milk bar were

even included in a worker’s salary.

By the mid-1960s, milk bars were

already located throughout Poland.

Anecdotally, Poland’s economic

situation was so tough under the

communist regime that many milk

bars chained the cutlery to the table to

prevent the theft of forks, knives and

spoons!

When communism collapsed in

1990, most milk bars went bankrupt.

Luckily, though, enough remain

and now serve as exciting tourist

attractions for visitors. In addition,

milk bars provide locals and

tourists alike with a good choice for

homemade traditional Polish food

and serve a wide range of cheap, fast

dishes. The Bar Mleczny on Grodzka

is one of the best milk bars in Kraków

for those looking for good food and an

unmistakable communist atmosphere.

10.00 am Crazy Guides Communist Tour in Nowa Huta Visit and discover Kraków’s centrally

planned Socialist district of Nowa

Huta (Polish for “New Steelworks”)

with Crazy Guides. By taking this tour

in a genuine Trabant automobile, you

can admire the Renaissance style of

the Soviets, visit the front gate of the

Vladimir Lenin Steelworks, admire

the Avenue of Roses and experience

the wonders of this one-of-a-kind city.

Not only will you discover how the

average Pole lived, worked and played

under communism, but stories and

anecdotes from your laid-back local

guide will bring the “good old days”

back to life.

Your assigned Crazy Guide can pick

you up in Grodzka 43 in the Old

Town, or wherever you prefer, and

after the tour can drop you off at the

next stop in the itinerary in Nowa

Huta. Crazy Guide website.

1.00 pm Lunch and coffee at C-2 Południe, the communist café of Kraków at ós. Górali 5This is truly a communist café, located

in the middle of Nowa Huta. However,

you will notice their coffee does not

taste that communist and is actually

some of the best you can drink in

Kraków. The same applies to their

cakes and sandwiches.

The stylish glass tables not only

include photos of the construction

Nowa Huta is thecommunist icon of

Poland - an entire city built

according to Stalin’s vision...

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Learn interesting anecdotes about the Lenin Monument at the Avenue of Roses

of the city but also have pictures of

the communist leaders in Poland,

the Soviet Union and worldwide,

including images of Fidel Castro’s

visit to Nowa Huta in 1972. Here

you can wear a Polish communist-

era authentic militia outfit and have

pictures taken with you wearing the

outfit. Upon request from customers,

the staff of C-2 Południe can play

an interesting film that narrates the

history of Nowa Huta.

3.00 pm Branch in Nowa Huta of the

Museum of the History of the City at

os. Słoneczne 16

Nowa Huta - first a separate town

was created at the location of villages

in 1949. Stalin designed it to become

a great centre of heavy industry that

would supply the Soviet Union with

steel and to serve as a model for the

perfect socialist-realist city.

It was an ideal urban project for

communist propaganda, and it would

be populated mostly by industrial

workers with origins in rural Poland.

The permanent exhibition displays

dozens of pictures and texts in both

English and Polish that present the

most important events in the history

and development of the district. You

can also watch the documentary film

“Labyrinth of Memory“ with English

subtitles that features interviews

with some of the protagonists and

witnesses of events that took place in

Nowa Huta.

More information on the Musem of the History of Nowa Huta Quarter. Visit Website.

6.00 pm Dinner at the true communist restaurant of Kraków, Kogel Mogel Sienna 12The 15 metre high, man-made

restaurant, named after a homemade

egg-based dessert popular in Eastern

Europe, offers a great opportunity

to enjoy the best Galician traditional

cuisine in rooms that resemble a

grand banquet hall for the communist

elite. Kogel Mogel’s huge variety of

starters, main dishes and desserts

is unrivalled by similar Polish

restaurants in rest of Kraków.

One of the main highlights is the fact

that the menu is delivered to guests

in a Pravda-style newspaper. The

food and drink in a socialist-realist

literary style with constant references

to Stalin, Lenin and the worker’s right

behaviour and mind-set. This includes

so many good examples of communist

party propaganda that you might be

tempted to think it was written by

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members of the Politburo.

Kogel Mogel website.

08.00 pm Beer at Bania Luka at Plac Szczepański 6This extremely popular bar is a

similar concept to Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa, a franchise that has recently

opened many branches in Kraków

and throughout Poland. Their

successful idea consists in serving

beer at PLN 4 and Polish tapas at

PLN 8, including delicacies such as

herrings, mackerel, tartar, sausages

and bread with smalec (typical Polish

lard) and pickled cucumbers. Bania Luka, however, offers a much wider

range of food and drinks (including

spirit mixes for PLN 6), higher quality

beer, and a less intense aroma of beef

tartar.

Alternatively, you can also stop by the

cosy Pub Propaganda at Miodowa

20 in Kazimierz, a 15-minute walk

from Market Square. Here you will be

surrounded by hundreds of mementos

and tokens from communist Poland

while you enjoy cheap beer and vodka

shots. Propaganda website.

10.00 pm Communist style party at Klub Społem at Tomasza 4For the final communist catharsis,

no better option exists than going

on a communist-style party at the

so- called communist club of Klub Społem, next door to Bania Luka. It

is named after Społem (Polish word

for “jointly” or “together”), a retail

consumers’ cooperative that was

nationalized by the PRL government

in 1970. It still exists today. Drink the

best communist vodka and spirits in

town at a price arranged for workers.

Dance to the best PRL-era songs.

But please, do not dare to ask the

DJ, who’s working from an amazing

vintage van-shaped set, to play a

capitalist American song for you.

And who knows: you might be lucky

enough to meet the male or female

comrade of your dreams here.

www.pubspolem.pl

Discover Nowa Huta in one of the amazing communist-time Crazy Guides’ cars

The staff at Crazy Guides will lead you through the highlights of communist Kraków

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Vegard recommends: The seven wonders of Kraków

Tourism

by Vegard Tverberg

Kraków is a city full of adventure, with plenty of sights that demand to be visited. Vegard from Sviatovid Guiding has given us his personal choice of seven art pieces. They are from seven different centuries, represent seven different art forms, and are of different kinds and styles. The text below is meant as an inspiration to discover the city’s culture, history and religion in her corners.

15th century – The Mariacki church ALTAR- Wit Stwosz

The Mariacki Church altar is Kraków’s

greatest art piece. The sculptor

Wit Stwosz from Nürnberg was

invited to Kraków in 1477, to create

a representative altar for the town

burghers. The city raised a significant

amount (equivalent to one year’s

budget), to attract Stwosz and his

workers. It took them 12 years to

finish the piece. By the time Stwosz

left the city in 1496, he had enriched

the city both with several sculptural

masterpieces and a with a whole

school of artists continuing his style.

The altar is a culmination of Gothic

art, including expressive realism

and plenty of citations of Kraków

life, including Stwosz himself. Each

human posture is depicted with

anatomical precision. Each group

is full of dynamism, not the least

because Stwosz was a true master

in carving deep waving folds and

draperies.

The main scene shows the Dormition

of Mary surrounded by the 12

apostles. Above, Mary is lifted with

Jesus by angels on a vessel of rays. At

the top we see Mary crowned by the

Father and the Son as the Queen of

Heaven.

The open altar shows the

Good News of Christian theology,

such as the Birth of Christ or the

Resurrection, all depicted with depth,

gold and shimmering rays. The closed

altar shows in 12 reliefs the Passion of

Christ and scenes which are darker in

character. Therefore make sure you

visit the altar right after the opening

hours, as the wings are opened

daily at 11.50 am: you can enjoy the

complete art work only around that

time.

16th century – Paradise Bliss TAPESTRY, Wawel Castle

Is there a better representative of the

European Renaissance than an arras.

These portable frescos as they were

called, were for a time on the move.

The Mariacki church altar by Wit Stwosz

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Arrases could be rolled together,

transported, and make the rooms of

the next castle the king would visit as

representative as the previous. These

tapestries were created with exotic

materials at important ports including

Brussels, Bruges and Antwerp, and

in the content deeply inspired by

the goods brought home from other

worlds. King Sigismund August’s huge

tapestry collection shows the wealth

of the Polish king at the time and his

close relation to Europe.

“Paradise Bliss” has a cartoonish

narrative of seven scenes, from the

creation of Eve from Adams ribs, to

the moment when an angel chases

them out of Paradise. The vegetation

is a combination of European and

exotic plants; There are animals

everywhere, particularly birds. Most

visible is the peacock in the right

corner; it symbolizes the lost Paradise

in its relation to the expelled humans

behind it. Alas, between them, like if

the arras contains its own prophecy,

stands the now extinct raphinae

(Dodo bird).

The nudity depicted in the tapestry

was something completely new, and

must have given some additional spice

to feasts hosted by Sigismund August.

The fig leaves were added to the

tapestry at a later, more conservative

time. The central motif depicts God,

telling Adam not to eat from the tree

of knowledge. The workshop of Jan

de Kempeneer must have been deeply

moved by the theme, real knowledge

eaters as they were. And we are still

eating.

17th century – The Myszkowski Chapel, Dominican Church

Marshal Zygmunt Myszkowski was

a man of wild ideas, as his times, the

period of the late Renaissance, were a

time of wild ideas. The Polish nobility

were a nobility without titles, so in

names (though not in wealth and

might) they were all equal. Zygmunt

Myszkowski managed to distinguish

himself, by maintaining close contact

with the Italian Gonzaga family, into

which he was adopted and given the

title Graf, to the annoyance of the rest

of the Polish nobility.

In the years 1603-1614 Italian

late Renaissance artists built him the

Myszkowski Chapel. Its pattern was

the luxurious Zygmunt Chapel on

Wawel, a resting place for a queen and

two kings. But Myszkowski was a man

of wild Italian ideas, and he pretended

to be a humble man. He didn’t want

any boastful grave monuments in his

chapel. On the contrary, he gave his

blessing to a delicate and pure marble

altar for the worship of St Dominik,

and the surrounding covered with

clean marble walls and Ionic columns.

That’s all! Except for a complete

gallery of the Myszkowski family

around the dome. So at the chapel,

look up! In all modesty, let the world

belong to the mortals, as long as the

Myszkowskis dominate the heavenly

sphere!

17th and 18th century – The Skałka POND

Skałka, Kraków´s most peaceful

and magic spot. Skałka – a church,

a monastery, a national pilgrimage

The Myszkowski chapel in the Dominican church

The Skałka Pond

“ In the years 1603-1614 Italian late

Renaissance artists built the Myszkowski Chapel

masterpiece... “

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same spot in pagan times. It´s called

the stoup of Poland, and its water is

supposed to have healing qualities for

eye and skin deseases. At the centre

of the pond we see a baroque statue of

Stanislaw restoring Piotrowin to life,

a Krakowian variant of the Raising

of Lazarus. You don´t have to be a

believer to enjoy Skałka. If Stanislaw

will not restore you to life, the bird’s

song will.

19th century – Pantaleon Szyndler´s PAINTING Bathing Girl, National Museum in Kraków, Gallery of Polish 19th century Polish art in Sukiennice

At first glance, Pantaleon Szyndler´s

Bathing Girl might look like a nude

without any further drama. It´s the

paintings title and a closer look that

make the whole scenery visible in the

dark. The girl stands on the edge of a

harem bath. On the mosaic under her

we can see she has let fall a bracelet,

a foot chain and a necklace. Only her

last clothing remain, with which she

shyly covers her chest, suggesting a

spectator in the pool. She is on the

verge of stepping in. The fountain,

and its position, needs no further

Freudian explanation. The winged

statue on its side seems to be Ishtar,

and the spread jewellery and the

gesture of undressing seems to be a

reference to the Ishtar myth. It’s as

if, despite her innocence, the water

will petrify the girl. The mastery of

the picture is that it makes both views

visible – the picture is full of erotism

and the tempted male gaze, and

simultaneously a portrait of a poor

innocent slave girl.

One would expect the theme of

harems and human trade to be a

theme of lost actuality. Sadly the

opposite is true. Poland might not be,

due to its strong Catholic culture, the

greatest participator in this trade. So

the less the opposite is true for almost

all of her neighbouring countries.

and a pantheon. And in front of

everything, the pond.

In 1079 Stanislaw Bishop was

killed at the Altar in Skałka by King

Boleslaw the Bold. According to the

hagiography his body was brought

outside and cut into pieces. While the

ravens circled around the remains,

four white eagles protected the body.

Miraculously, Stanislaw´s body parts

then grew together. These eagles are

commemorated at each of the ponds

corner posts.

Stanislaw was canonized in 1253,

and has been the patron saint of

Poland ever since, and is a symbol

of the country´s destiny. He rests in

Wawel Cathedral´s most prominent

spot, but Skałka will always be it´s

counterpoint. Every Polish king

after 1320 had to make a pilgrimage

to Skałka on the day before his

coronation, as a penance for King

Boleslaw´s crime, and a guarantee

of the monarchy´s obedience to the

church.

The natural pond likely belonged to

a temple previously located on the

‘Bathing Girl”, Pantaleon Szyndler, National Museum in Kraków

“ The girl stands on the edge of a harem bath. On the mosaic under her we can see she has let fall a

bracelet, a foot chain and

a necklace. “

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20th century – Stanisław Wyspianski´s STAINED GLASS “God Creator”, Franciscan Church

It´s difficult to turn your head in

Kraków without seeing something

that is a reference to Stanislaw

Wyspianski. It might be anecdotes or

biographical references, citations from

his poetry or his dramas, motifs from

his paintings, some of his unrealized

megalomanic ideas, his art works or

sculptures in his honour. It’s as if the

city was in his blood, and his blood

still pumps in it’s streets.

His stained glass still has a central

position as an art form he reinvented

and modernized. Foremost among

them are the works in the Franciscan

Church, and most prominent of them

all is God Creator above its choir. It´s

so fresh and cartoonish that it looks

more like a work from the 1960s than

from the beginning of the century.

The motif is the second day of creation

– “And God said, Let there be a

firmament in the midst of the waters.”

The dynamism in the elements is

so violent, that some spectators

don´t see the creator at first sight.

It´s like the creator breaks through

from another dimension and can

hardly stand against the storm of the

elements.

But Wyspianski is always a

Krakowian. The Creator is also

a portrait of his uncle after his

return from Siberian exile. The

upper expressive, active, potent

left hand though, is a citation, from

the Michelangelo´s Sistine Chapel

– it’s a mirror image of Archangel

Michael´s right hand at the top of Last

Judgement. Pay attention to the right

hands in all of Wyspianski´s works.

And beware of right pale dead hand

in God Creator. One day this will rise,

and end what once begun.

21st century – MONUMENT on Plac Bohaterów Getta, Piotr Lewicki i Kazimierz Łatak, 2006

With the chairs on Plac Bohaterów

Getta (Ghetto Heroes Square) Krakow

has finally created a holocaust

monument that remember the

Jewish people that influenced and

contributed so much to the history of

the city, and who disappeared without

a trace in 1942 and 1943. Of a pre-war

population around 60,000, less than

thousand Krakowian Jews survived.

The monument is situated on the

former Nazi square for selections,

where those fit for work where further

exploited in the ghetto, while the

weakest where transported to the

gassing centre in Bełżec (only one

person survived this “camp”). This

place saw the most terrible scenes,

and it is supposed to have been the

mass shooting of the ghetto children

that disturbed and changed Otto

Schindler mind forever. (Schindler’s

factory is situated 300 m away from

the square.)

Our most important source of

Kraków ghetto history comes from

the memories of Tadeusz Pankiewicz,

a Polish pharmacist on the ghetto

‘God Creator ‘ by Stanisław Wyspiański

“The dynamism in the elements is so violent, that some

spectators don´t see the creator at first

sight. “

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square who courageously remained

in the ghetto throughout its whole

existence, and who witnessed all

horrors right outside his pharmacy

window. The direct historical link

to the chairs in the monument is a

reference depicted from Pankiewicz’

memories. During the first selection to

Bełżec 2-4 June 1942 the Nazis fooled

the Jews by making them pack all

their belongings to create an illusion

about “relocation” to better conditions

in the east. Then they were beaten,

kicked, shot and chased like animals

down to the Plaszow railway station.

All their belongings were ghostly left

behind on the square.

The new chairs have made the victims

ghostly present on the square again.

One part of the chairs, spread in a

grid all over the square, is lifted on

small pedestals, makes them both

impossible to sit on, and destroy all

other activity that can be conducted

on an open square. The second part

fulfils a practical function as chairs

for trams and bus station. This very

twist, this presence and absence, this

combination of prohibition and daily

life, makes the monument Jewish in

conception. These chairs are a giant

step towards a Holocaust memorial in

Kraków. Let’s hope the conception of

the monument can provoke a change

of the Stalinistic name of the place

as well. Whether or not there were

heroes, is irrelevant. First of all there

were victims.

“ New chairs have made the victims of Kraków Ghetto ghostly present on the square again... These chairs are a giant step towards

a Holocaust memorial in

Kraków.”Plac Bohaterów Getta in Old Podgórze

“ Schindler’s Factory museum is situated 300m

away from the square. “

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Kraków livingKraków and 21st century architectureby Michał Steckiw

10 ways to get around Kraków: From horses tounderground tramwayby Angel Lopez Peiro

Biking around Krakówby Salvatore Carfora

Fitness first: Stay fit in Krakówby Michał Steckiw

Frania Cafe and Laundretteby Anja Wedberg

Cool flats at hot prices: An insight into the local realestate marketby Michał Steckiw

Map | Menu | Editorial | Business | Tourism | Living | Highlights | We Recommend | Gallery

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Kraków districts at glance

From Stare Miasto to Nowa Huta

There are several major districts and a number of neighbourhoods in Kraków. Here is a brief introduction to the key areas that attract local expats and foreign visitors - from the UNESCO-protected Stare Miasto, through bohemian Kazimierz and the up-and-coming areas of Grzegórzki and Podgórze to the socrealistic Nowa Huta.

Stare Miasto: Kraków’s Old Town,

located in the heart of the city, is

a UNESCO World Heritage Site

which includes the picturesque

Rynek Square, the majestic royal

Wawel Castle, remains of medieval

fortifications, rich renaissance

and baroque residences and the

Jagiellonian University’s medieval

campus.

Kazimierz: The medieval Jewish

quarter boasts a number of

synagogues and historic Jewish

merchant houses as well as numerous

bohemian and arty restaurants, bars,

clubs and art galleries. Home to the

Jewish Cultural Festival each summer.

Stare Podgórze: Connected to

Kazimierz by the Kładka footbridge,

this historic district is where the Nazis

created a Jewish ghetto during World

War II.

Grzegórzki: 19th century industrial

settlement, today a developing area

with both heritage and modern

residential apartments and offices

plus the high end shopping mall

Galeria Kazimierz. In the near future

there will also be a new philharmonic

hall on the bank of the Wisła River,

and the new seat for Małopolska

regional assembly.

Zabłocie: Former industrial quarter

and home to both Schindler’s Factory

museum and MOCAK (Museum of

Contemporary Arts), this is another

up-and-coming area on the south

bank of the Wisła River.

AWF: Recreational area surrounding

the AWF Park and the new Krakow

Arena. Here you will find a large

public park, two shopping malls, a

cineplex and a new sports and events

arena. Suggested possible location for

the Olympic Village 2022.

Nowa Huta: Established by the

communist regime following World

War II as a model socialist labour

town, with typical 1950s socrealistic

architecture copied straight from the

Soviet Union. Highly recommended

if Poland is the first post-communist

country you are visiting. Located east

of Kraków’s centre.

Olsza & Prądnik Czerwony:Up-and-coming business and

entertainment area with high-rise

office buildings, shopping malls,

a cineplex, a water park and new

residential developments. Located

north-east of the city centre.

Wola Justowska: Cosy residential

area west of Stare Miasto on the way

to the zoo and the Las Wolski forest.

Includes the renaissance Decius

Palace and Park complex.

Kryspinów & Balice: Kraków’s

nearest beach is located by the

recreational lake of Kryspinów, not

far from Kraków Airport in Balice.

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Kraków and 21st Century architecture:

Can Kraków learn from London, Berlin, Vienna, Beijing or Montreal?

by Michal J. Steckiw

Kraków is famous for its outstanding heritage architecture: the castle, temples, merchant houses from the renaissance and baroque periods and cultural buildings. These are symbols of Poland’s rich history at a time when its borders spread

from the Baltic Sea to the Black Sea. Yet it is the city’s preservation of its historic Old Town that has limited development of outstanding modern architecture that could become landmarks of 21st century Kraków. While other major cities have

encouraged the development of new

landmark buildings, Kraków has

focused instead on preserving classic

buildings. Further, Kraków has

ensured that anything new falls in line

with existing structures and does not

overshadow its key heritage buildings.

By placing a ceiling on creativity and

the vision for the future, Kraków

has produced architecture in recent

decades that is at best average. With

some determination, however, on can

find in Kraków a few architectural

diamonds that are evidence of fresh

thinking on how the modern can

blend in with the historic. To whit:

don’t leave Kraków without visiting

the Małopolska Garden of Arts.

Looking at design metropolises: London, Vienna, Montreal, Berlin...London is the heart of European

creativity and architectural

development. Not only the home of

the world renowned Big Ben, St Paul’s

Cathedral, Tower castle and Tower

Bridge, the city also plays host to the

easily recognized Shard pyramid,

Gherkin skyscraper, Millennium

Bridge and the soon-to-be-completed

Pinnacle tower – all just footsteps

from historical landmarks.

Will Kraków find a balance between historic and modern architecture?

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Montreal, the UNESCO City of

Design, is well known not just for its

heritage French and British colonial

architecture, Notre Dame Cathedral

and the Vieux Port, but for 20th

century Canadian masterpieces such

as the Olympic Stadium, Habitat 67,

Palais des congrès, and 1000 de la

Gauchetière.

Vienna, Austria, found a balance

between its heritage of Austrian

empire palaces, churches and

mansions and the extravagant

buildings designed by Hundertwasser.

The famous landmark of historic

Valencia is, surprisingly, the modern

City of Arts and Sciences and the new

opera house designed by Santiago

Calatrava.

Since the fall of communism, Berlin

has undergone outstanding urban

redesign.Today, the city proudly

presents modern architecture

coexisting with historic landmarks

that survived or were rebuilt after

World War II.

What about Kraków?Kraków has yet to envision how the

21st century should be marked on the

city’s architectural landscape. Visitors

to the city need not have their cameras

at the ready when viewing recent

large municipal projects such as the

new Opera house, Wisła Stadium or

even commercial developments like

Sheraton Hotel or Galeria Krakowska.

There are some developments

worth mentioning, however. First

of all, the Małopolska Garden of Arts, internationally recognized by

ArchDaily as the best cultural building

in 2012; the “Kładka” pedestrian

bridge that spans the river between

Kazimierz and Old Podgórze (Stare

Podgórze); or revitalization projects

that have combined old and new

architecture: the Galeria Kazimierz

shopping mall, Pasaz 13 and the

Museum of Contemporary Arts (MOCAK).

The Małopolska Garden of Arts introduced new spatial order

to the old backyards and ruined

buildings found on Rajska and

Szujskiego streets in Kraków’s

lively neighborhood around

Karmelicka Street. The focus point

is a multifunctional hall that was

combined with a former 19th-century

horse riding arena.

The Małopolska Garden of Arts is a

collaborative project between two

institutions: the historic Juliusz

Słowacki Theatre and the Małopolska

Voivodeship Library. The wing found

on Szujskiego Street houses a modern

art and media library with multimedia

books and music, while the section

on Rajska Street was developed as a

theatre that includes a multifunctional

events hall. Its geometric and

transparent architecture has become a

landmark of 21st-century Kraków.

In the near future...Fortunately, there are several other

new public buildings currently under

development that have the potential to

become new architectural landmarks

of the city: the ICE Congress Centre

on the river bank opposite Wawel

hill; the new sports arena that upon

completion will resemble a spacecraft;

The Arts & Science Centre and the new opera inValencia, Spain

The Olympic Stadium in Montreal, Canada: UNESCO City of Design.

The Shard in London: The tallest skyscraper inthe European Union

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Małopolska Garden of Arts in Kraków

The Kładka’pedestrian bridge connects Kazimierz and Old Podgórze in Kraków

The Home Army Museum, Kraków

a new waste processing plant that

will blend in naturally with the

surrounding rural landscape on the

outskirts of Nowa Huta; the Kantor

Museum (Crikoteka); and the new

International Terminal at Balice

Airport. These are signs that the city

is finally creating modern architecture

equal to its aspirations.

Soon the Małopolska Region authority

will announce an international

architectural competition for the

design of a new philharmonic hall

and music center on the banks of

Wisła River. It will be located in the

redeveloping post-industrial area of

Grzegórzki. Is this an opportunity

to develop a modern landmark

building that will match those in

Beijing, Oslo, Valencia or Sydney?

It will be, presuming the selection

committee possesses the wisdom and

vision that Kraków deserves. After

all, the architecture found on Wawel

Hill comprises styles found over the

centuries: medieval, renaissance,

baroque and classical. Judging by the

results from the recent competition

for the new seat of Małopolska

Regional Assembly, also in Grzegórzki

quarter, there are positive signs that

local decision makers understand that

Kraków deserves new architectural

iconic buildings that will represent the

21st century city on the rise.

Old Kraków offers amazing

opportunities for both urban

design and the redevelopment of

areas outside the core Old Town

and Kazimierz. If it is to be a truly

international city with aspirations

to be more than a weekend getaway

destination, Kraków needs to survey

the best examples of what happens

when architects are unleashed

and allowed to create and envision

something new and (oftentimes)

controversial. The examples of

modern architecture listed below that

can be found in the heart of heritage

districts can serve to inspire Kraków

and its residents. The city houses

outstanding historic architecture. The

time has come to build something

for future generations by boosting

architectural creativity.

Kraków offers opportunities for both new

urban design and redevelopment

of areas outside the Old Town and

Kazimierz.

Photo: National Centre for Performing Arts in Beijing, China. Architectural benchmark for modern public buildings architecture?

Architectural benchmark for modern public

buildings?

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On two and four wheels, by rail, on water, with grandeur or in a sporty way. Move around the jewel in the crown of Poland like a Polish king.

On footKraków is one of the best cities in

Europe to discover on foot. There are

many pedestrian streets, and the main

tourist attractions are fairly close to

each other. Walk along the Royal Way

from the Barbican, through Floriańska

Street, the splendorous Main Market

Square and Grodzka Street to the

magnificent Wawel Castle. Follow

the Planty Park ring around the Old

Town; mosey down the riverbank

boulevards that stretch out beside the

Wisła River.

By tram and busKraków’s well-developed public

transportation system network has

numerous on-time tram and bus lines

that cover the city’s districts.

A ticket valid for 20 minutes costs

PLN 2.80 while a 40-minute ticket

costs PLN 3.80. Student and senior

citizen tickets cost PLN 1.40 (valid for

20 minutes) and PLN 1.90 (valid for

40 minutes).

Many tram and bus stops also feature

these machines.) The machines are

always located on the first carriage

of a multi-car tram. If you get on a

tram on which you can’t find a ticket

machine, tickets can be bought from

the driver, though at a slightly higher

price. Drivers require exact change.

Tickets must be validated on the bus/

tram; this is done in clearly marked

devices located throughout the tram/

bus.

Be aware of the disguised plainclothes

ticket controllers. Your chances of

encountering them are much greater

than you may think. Prices for fines

range PLN 120-150. If you are caught

without a valid ticket, you must

pay the fine in cash directly to the

controller (unless you hold documents

proving your permanent address

Kraków Living

10 ways to get around Kraków: from horses to underground tramway

by Angel Lopez Peiro

Poland’s longest tram on Lubicz Street in Kraków

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Underground tramway in Kraków’s centre linked to the main railway station (Dworzec Główny)

in Kraków). Riders holding the

discounted student and senior citizen

tickets may be required to show a

proper student or pensioner ID.

Check MPK’s website for further

information about Kraków’s public

transportation. A good guide to plan

your trip through the city with public

transportation is jakdojade.pl.

By trainMany of Kraków’s suburbanites

commute from home by train.

Commuter rail connects the main

train station (Kraków Główny) with

the secondary station Kraków-Płaszów

and other train stops scattered around

the city. Check lines and schedules.

In addition, an express train connects

the main train station and Kraków’s

John Paul II Airport in 20 minutes.

Although the train station is 200 m

from the international terminal, you

can use a free shuttle bus service to

move between them. The price for

a regular one-way ticket is PLN 12.

More information and schedules.

By taxiThere are three low-cost taxi services

in Kraków: iCar (+48 12 653 55

55), Mega Taxi (+48 12 196 25) and

Car-o (+48 12 623 44 33). Due to city

regulations, these particular taxis

must be requested by phone.

By bicycleThe city boasts of many bike paths

that wend their way through

interesting urban and nature

landscapes. Many of them go around

Old Town, Kazimierz and along the

Wisła riverbanks. However, some of

the most beautiful bike routes follow

the Rudawa River from Błonia Park

and cover the trails through Wolski

Forest, near Kościuszko Mound. Be

aware that some of the climbs along

the way can be very steep, and that

not all trails are marked. The bike

path to Tyniec is also worth trying.

Bike rental outlets can be found

throughout Kraków’s Old Town. For

instance, you can rent a bike and

go on an organized bike tour with

Cruising Kraków, Cool Tour Company

and Bike Trip. Alternatively, many

self-service bike rental stands are

located throughout the city. While

these stands allow you to pick up a

By bicycle? Readour article on

recommendations forbikers in Kraków.

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bike for a small fee, be aware that you

must register online first at

kmkbike.pl.

Maybe you would like to move around

Poland’s former capital in more non-

conventional ways while having a bit

of fun at the same time. Here are our

suggestions:

By golf cartPrices range from PLN 200-250 (a

maximum of 5 fit in a golf cart) for

a ride that includes Old Town and

Kazimierz. It’s worth it to bargain

over the price with the driver. The

golf carts are also popular nightlife

entertainment: drinking alcoholic

beverages on the golf carts is

permitted and the driver can play your

music over the cart’s speaker system

if you bring an mp3 player. One of the

many companies in Kraków operating

sightseeing golf carts is See Kraków.

By horse-drawn carriageHorse-drawn carriages arrayed in

Kraków’s Market Square (Rynek) and

travelling through Old Town have

become a landmark of the city. You

can hire a carriage if you approach the

north side of Market Square. Prices

start at PLN 100 /carriage. Carriages

can carry up to 4 or 5 people. Prices

begin at PLN 100 for a ride around the

square; a trip from Rynek to Wawel

costs around PLN 170 /carriage (30

minutes); a 1-hour ride from Rynek

to Wawel and then to the Kazimierz

Jewish District costs PLN 350.

By boat/water tramKraków’s river trams connect different

points located on the Wisła riverbank

as well as many of the city’s tourist

attractions: Wawel Royal Castle,

Old Podgórze, the Ghetto Heroes

Square and Oscar Schindler’s factory,

the Balloon, Manggha Museum,

the Camaldolese Monastery in

Bielany, Kościuszko Mound, John

Paul II’s home on Tyniecka Street,

the Norbertine Monastery, and the

Pauline Church on the Rock. You can

also take a 10 km scenic boat trip from

Kraków to the Benedictine Abbey in

Tyniec by navigating up the river.

Find out more about Kraków’s water

tram system, its prices, schedules and

routes.

Tram Café Retro and Tramway PartyHop on the only café on rails in

Poland. Enjoy a coffee, tea or beer

while travelling by carriages and

a glamorous atmosphere without

losing sight of Kraków’s majestic

monuments. More info about Tram

Café Retro and booking.

TramWay Party is a very popular fun

activity among students in Kraków,

whether local or international.

This is ideal for anyone eager to have

a great time and experience a different

side of public transportation. You can

dance to a music mix from a DJ and

have some drinks while you travel

around Kraków with your friends.

More info and booking.

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By boat and water tram: enjoy Kraków from the Wisła River and meet the locals

A bird’s-eye view of Kraków from a hot-air balloon

Our final recommendation does

not correspond to a means of

transportation proper, but instead

involves leaving earth and observing

Kraków from 200 metres in the air!

It is located just across the Wisła

River from Wawel Castle. The hot-air

balloon in question is securely tied to

the ground. You can enjoy magnificent

views of Wawel Castle, Old Town, the

whole city and its surroundings, and

even (on a clear day) the stunning

Tatra Mountains.

We highly recommend hopping on

the balloon just before the sunset.

The ride accommodates up to 30

passengers, and a regular ticket costs

PLN 36 per person.

When travellingacross Kraków

centre by boat youcan enjoy a pint of

Polish lager...

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It’s a hard knock life for us (bikers)

Or, should you prefer, call us cyclists.

The truth is that life for bikers/

cyclists ain’t easy in big cities such as

Kraków. There are the ever-present

traffic jams, bike trails that resemble

Swiss cheese with many holes, and

bike trails that sometimes abruptly

end, thus forcing one to cross very

busy roads. The city itself is almost

entirely flat, so one can enjoy long

rides without pushing too hard on

the pedals. For people that find

flat roads boring, several artificial

mounds (hills) can be found scattered

around the city. The Polish term for

mound is Kopiec, and there are four

of them: Kopiec Kosciuszki, Kopiec

Wandy, Kopiec Krakusa, and Kopiec

Pilsudksiego. Kraków boasts of several

large green areas, the largest of which

is Błonia Park. Here you can enjoy

a pleasant and relaxing ride around

the park on a road/trail shared with

bike riders, roller skaters and jogging

aficionados (but no automobiles).

Sadly, all these nice places are not

very well connected with each other,

and sometimes you may end up

arguing with nasty drivers who keep

honking and cutting in front of you,

making you wish that you had one

of those weird armoured bikes from

WWI to teach them a lesson! Those

bikes, however, belong to the history

books and museums. If you really

want to have a pleasant life riding

your beloved two wheels, perhaps you

should follow these basic rules.

Keep your bike efficientAlways make sure your tires are

properly inflated and that the treads

are not to worn out. Keep the chain

lubricated and free of rust: you don’t

really want it to break while ascending

Kopiec Kościuszki. Make sure your

brakes work properly: you are going

to need them as you make your way

downhill back to Kraków.

Equip your bike with lights and a bell

Kraków Living

by Salvatore Carfora

Biking around Kraków

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Salvatore, originally from Italy, explores

biking around Kraków and shares

his tips for fun and safe biking

adventures.

It is crucial to be seen and heard when

you are on the road, especially when

it’s dark. Equip your bike with bright

lights on the front and back. Reliable

and inexpensive LED lights are

readily available these days. Mount a

bell on your bike if you don’t want to

keep shouting at pedestrians on the

riverbank trail to move along.

Drive safely, wear a helmetThe truth is, bike helmets look kind

of funny and lame, but one might

save your life one day. When you buy

a helmet, don’t underspend. Make

sure the model has been tested and

complies with international safety

standards.

Bring along a repair kitEspecially when you go for a leisure

ride at one of the many spots around

the city such as Ojców National Park,

Las Wolski, Tyniec, or the artificial

lagoon at Kryspinów. You backpack

can easily accommodate a small

pump, a repair kit for bicycle inner

tubes, and a multi-tool key.

Watch out for tram tracksA common problem for urban bikers

is tram tracks. If your ride is a

mountain bike, your tires won’t get

stuck in the tracks, but if you love

fast racing bikes or comfy Holland

bikes, then you have to be very careful

when you approach tram tracks. The

best way to cross them is diagonally,

of course, while making sure that no

car is approaching you from behind.

If you dare to ride during the winter,

don’t even think about crossing them:

tracks freeze very easily. As soon as

your front tire touches the tracks, no

matter what you are riding, you’ll find

yourself sitting on the asphalt. Unless,

of course, you’re riding in the middle

of a big field in the countryside: in

that case, all of the above doesn’t

apply.

Don’t listen to your mp3 player while ridingThis includes any other activity that

might distract you, such as smoking,

talking on the phone, eating, etc.

When you ride your bike, you need

to focus on everything happening

A Nun on a bike? Only in Kraków.

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Karmelicka Street leading toward Bagatela Biking down the Wisła river.

around you; otherwise, you could

injure yourself or cause an accident.

Don’t forget the cars, buses, and other

bikers around you – keep your eyes

and ears open.

Don’t listen to your mp3 player while

riding. Seriously!

Don’t drink alcoholic beverages before riding

We all love a cold beer on a sunny

summer day, don’t we? Regardless,

you have to make a decision: bike

or beer. First of all, it’s not safe for

you and for the people around you.

Secondly, if you get caught by the

police, they will give you a ticket

and possibly take away your driving

license. And you don’t really want

that, trust me.

Respect traffic lawsYou should always bear in mind that

you don’t own the road and others

have right to use it as well. To some

extent, riding a bike is like driving a

car: you are subject to the same traffic

laws and rules, so you must respect

them. Unless you don’t possess a driving license and you don’t know anything

about the topic. In that case read a book or choose to walk: the world will be

grateful.

That’s it. We hope we didn’t forget anything, and we wish you a nice ride in

the streets of Kraków… if you manage to avoid all the pedestrians that jam the

streets in Old Town Kraków, of course!

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Kraków provides plenty of opportunities for staying fit. The city was named the 2014 European City of Sports, hosts many international sporting events, and was the home base for Italian, English and Dutch national football teams during the 2012 EUFA Football tournament in Poland. What

about the local gym scene? Here’s a guide to Kraków’s gym

chains for both visitors and

newcomers.

With the recently developed

network of modern gyms located

around the city, you won’t miss

your workout while spending time

in this historic city.

Sport is everywhere in Kraków:

from the runners zipping along the

boulevards adjacent to the Wisła River

and Błonia Park, to the bikers finding

their way to the Kraków mounds, over

to the Las Wolski forest, up to the zoo

and Tyniec Abbey. With three football

clubs, two new stadiums, and Poland’s

largest indoor sports arena scheduled

to be completed in 2014 – Yes, its true

that Kraków is all about sports and

staying fit.

The local gym scene offers a variety of

places worth visiting. When spending

some time in Kraków, you will likely

stay either in the Old Town or near

one of many business parks outside

of the core city centre. According to

a recent survey by the local portal

krakow.naszemiasto.pl, Platinium Fitness (located on ul. Mogilska) and

Energym (located in Czyzyny) are

Kraków Living

Fitness first:

Stay fit in Kraków

by Michal J. Steckiw

Kraków has a growing network of modern gyms

“Here’s a guide to Kraków’s gym chains for both visitors and

newcomers.”

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the most popular and highest ranked

among Kraków’s new gyms.

Platinium offers a large space just

three tram stops from the railway

station in a refurbished factory

on the border of the city centre.

Expanded and furnished with modern

equipment, this club offers four large

workout rooms, space for fitness

classes, two saunas, healthy bar and

a chill-out lounge. The gym, which

is popular with young Krakowians,

foreign students and expats, accepts

both month-to-month membership,

daily passes and the Multisport

benefit card. Its value for the money

and its convenient location have made

it a top spot to get fit.

Much closer to the Old Town

are Pure Fitness gyms, with

two locations: one by the Galeria

Kazimierz shopping mall and the

other in the Angel City complex by

the railway station. The first one

has a swimming pool and offers

its members a number of classes.

It is located in a popular shopping

mall by the bohemian quarter of

Kazimierz, and close to the Wiślane

Tarasy apartment complex and office

buildings along the Wisła River.

The second location can get quite

crowded with local students from the

Politechnika campus. The pricing is

quite expensive for Polish standards.

Contract membership and daily

passes are available. These are still

the two closest gyms when staying

or living in the core Old Town. Daily

passes are PLN 75 compared to PLN

25-50 for other gyms mentioned here.

Three other gyms worth

recommending are located a little

further from the city centre, though

they can be considered when living in

the city. Park Wodny (Aquapark)

has a large gym above its swimming

pool complex. Located next to the

Quatro and Rondo business parks, the

gym is popular among local residents

and professionals who work in the

nearby office towers.

Energym in Czyżyny opened in 2011

and is a modern three-storey complex

with saunas as well as fitness, yoga,

boxing and martial arts classes. It was

ranked among the most popular gyms

in the city. Located in the residential

district of Czyżyny, Nowa Huta, it is

30 minutes from the city centre by

tram.

Recently Galeria Krakowska - the

shopping mall by the main railway

station opened a new exclusive gym

Ozone Fitness catering to the city

center guests and people working

nearby.

Given the variety of places where

you can stay fit, learn new work

out techniques or attend numerous

fitness classes, there is no way you

need to miss your workout routine

when visiting Kraków. If you have

just moved here, there is plenty to

choose from when selecting a local

gym where you can flex, sweat, relax,

mingle and get that endorphin boost.

Stay fit in Kraków. After all, Poland

is home to some of the world’s best-

known Strongmen.

Platinium Fitnessand Energym are

among top favoritegyms in Kraków

where you can flex,sweat, relax and

mingle...

Park Wodny (Aquapark) complex with water slides, gym and restaurants

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Washing may be one of the dullest activities us humans have to endure on a regular basis. Turn your weekly chore into something rather pleasant at Frania Café and Laundrette, which offers a genius combination of washing machines, drinks and art.

During my first months of living in

Kraków, I found myself living in a

small apartment without a washing

machine, prompting regular visits to

the local laundrette.

Luckily for me, Frania proved to be

something out of the ordinary: a

combined laundrette, café, bar, art

gallery with local art works on display

and free Wi-Fi-spot. Plus a constant

Frania Cafe and Laundrette

by Anja Wedberg

supply of good music, including

regular live concerts.

One load of washing and drying costs

PLN 16 and the complete laundry

service which includes ironing

comes to PLN 26. The launderette is

centrally located at Starowisła 26. It

is open every day from 10:00 am to

midnight or longer.

Frania has a fun website (in English

and Polish) where you can check out

any upcoming events, sign up for their

newsletter, browse the photo gallery

and find useful information about

washing.

There is also a Frania Facebook page

(in Polish).

Anja, from Sweden,

discovered a rather special

laundrette right in the city centre: a genius

combination of washing

machines, drinks and art.

Frania’s website at www.franiacafe.pl is available n English and Polish

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Thinking of buying a flat withing walking distance to old Kraków? With prices in the city centre starting as low as PLN 7,400 per square metre, it is the buyer’s market.

Kraków Living

Panorama of old Kraków captured from Wiślane Tarasy apartment complex.

Cool apartments at the right price. Kraków is the buyer’s market.For now.

by Michal J. Steckiw

A city on the rise, a drop in property

prices and increased competition

among real estate developers, now

is the time to invest in modern

apartments around Kraków’s historic Old Town.

A view of the Old TownSome of the city’s new top-prestigious

developments worth exploring are

Novum Apartments opposite the

Academy of Economics campus,

Angel Wawel next to the Wawel

Castle hill and Nadwislanska 11 residence overlooking Kładka

footbridge, banks of Wisła river and

old Kazimierz. All of those within

walking distance to Kraków main

attractions within historic city center.

When completed, Angel Wawel will

be the home to the most luxurious

penthouse in Poland. With 700

square metres, the top penthouse will

include heritage polychromic windows

and interiors designed by Maciej

Zień - one of Poland’s biggest design

brands.

Kraków may not have the luxurious

high towers you find in Warsaw or

London, but there is one project on

the horizon that might be an exception

– the 24 floors high tower skeleton

by the roundabout Rondo Mogilskie.

This old structure, which has been

an eyesore of the Kraków skyline for

the last 30 years, is planned to be

restored as a Treimorfa tower with

the intention of offering both high-rise

residential apartments and modern

office space, with grand views over the

city and beyond – even as far as the

Tatra Mountains.

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Wiślane Tarasy modern apartments complex www.wislanetarasy.pl

Wiślane Tarasy courtyard at Grzegórzecka Street 67c

Lubicz Brewery lofts. Source: Balmoral

Properties www.browarlubicz.pl

The Old Town remains the best real estate investment in Kraków

Best for location, comfort and architecture

Do you prefer something more low-

key with a courtyard, fountains and

a cosy garden? Wiślane Tarasy

offers both a view of the city from its

large terraces and a large green space

for the residents. This development

was selected among the top most

prestigious residential addresses in

Kraków. It also has a great location

near Kazimierz quarter, the Wisła

river and the Cracovia Business

Centre tower.

For many years Wiślane Tarasy

has been the most desired modern

apartments complex in the city. The

estate is made up of four modern

buildings, with commercial space

on the ground floor for services of

interest to all residents.

Browar Lubicz (the old brewery

lofts) is another interesting project

that topped the chart of new

prestigious addressed in the city. A

large development near Kraków’s

main train station is currently the

one of its kind incorporating loft

design and heritage architecture from

historic Okocim Brewery complex.

When completed Browar Lubicz

will host modern luxurious and

middle class apartments, office and

commercial space within walking

distance from the old town and the

main railway station.

Wiślane Tarasy,Angel Wawel and

Browar Lubiczare the

most desirednew addresses in

Kraków.

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HighlightsPlac Nowy and the heart of Kazimierzby Angel Lopez Peiro

ARS: Kraków Artistic Cinema Centreby Jens Markussen

Karma Coffee Roastersby Elisabeth Wójcik

Schindler’s Factory Museumby Anja Wedberg

Pod Wawelem: The Habsburg in a Polish beer tentby Chris Hamp

Cupcake Corner Bakeryby Katarzyna Morzewska and Elena Gordeeva-Voot

Kraków’s lifeblood - the Wisła Riverby Anna Cieśla

Dajwór Street in Kazimierzby Michał Steckiw and Salvatore Carfora

Choco Cafe: chocolate heaven in Krakówby Grzegorz Kałucki and Hilde Merete Udnaes

Map | Menu | Editorial | Business | Tourism | Living | Highlights | We Recommend | Gallery

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For over two centuries Plac Nowy

has been a market place with its

unmistakable rotunda “Okrąglak”,

used by the Jewish community as a

slaughterhouse from 1927 until the

Second World War.

Today it hosts several butchers and

up to a dozen hatches selling the best zapiekankas in the country.

Tucking into a zapiekanka – a

baked baguette with mushrooms,

cheese, meat or vegetables, topped

with your choice of fresh chives,

mayonnaise or ketchup – from Plac

Nowy is a must for any visitor. The square also features interesting coffee shops and pubs such as

the old-time evocative and candlelit

Alchemia, French-style Les Colours

and Mechanoff. For a more glam night

out, try the cocktails at Le Scandale or

Baroque, or go dancing at Taawa.

For the ultimate dancing experience

in Kasimierz, however, enter the

ENG ES

Si quieres escapar del agobio que

provoca la multitud de turistas

que abarrotan el casco Antiguo de

Cracovia, dirígete a Plac Nowy. La

“Plaza Nueva” se encuentra en el

corazón del antiguo barrio judío de

Kazimierz que se ha convertido en

la zona de moda de Cracovia; una

alternativa para el ocio nocturno y la

cultura urbana que atrae por igual a

polacos, expatriados y a los turistas

más curiosos.

Durante más de dos siglos Plac Nowy

ha sido un lugar de mercado con un

inconfundible edificio circular en el

centro conocido como “Okrąglak”,

que fue usado por la comunidad

judía como un matadero de aves

desde 1927 hasta la Segunda Guerra

Mundial. Hoy en día, el edificio

alberga varias carnicerías y hasta

una docena de casetas donde hacen

las mejores zapiekankas de Polonia.

Comer una zapiekanka – una baguette

Angel, a native of Barcelona, discovers the hidden corners of

Kazimierz and Plac Nowy. After years of

reinvention, Kazimierz is bursting with creative

energy and bohemian charm.

Plac Nowy and the heart of Kazimierz

by Angel Lopez Peiro

Kazimierz has a lively nightlife with hundreds of bars and restaurants

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sewing-machine-themed Singer after

02:00 am to find a crowd of people

dancing energetically to club, gypsy

and klezmer music – many of them

standing on the tabletops where only

hours earlier coffee was served.

In addition to food, drinks and dance,

Plac Nowy has a daily fruit and

vegetable market. At the weekends,

you can find a good selection of

antiques and crafts (on Saturdays)

and clothes (on Sundays) here.

Plac Nowy also hosts the unique

Soup Festival every year in May.

This competition encourages its

participants to cook the best soup

and allows visitors to enjoy a variety

of flavours, from traditional zurek to

innovative recipes like tomato and

banana. At night, an open air concert

and beer are the protagonists.

Highlights

horneada con.

Sin embargo, si lo que estás buscando

es una gran juerga acércate a Singer

a partir de las dos de la madrugada

y encontrarás una multitud de

gente bailando como locos música

electrónica, gitana y klezmer (judía)

– muchos de ellos moviendo el

esqueleto sobre las mesas en que

unas horas antes los clientes del bar

estaban tomando un café. Además

de por su comida, bares y ocio

nocturno, Plac Nowy destaca por su

mercado diario de frutas y verduras.

Los fines de semana este mercado

ofrece también una buena selección

de antigüedades y artesanía (sábados)

y prendas de ropa (domingos) Plac

Nowy acoge también cada año en

mayo el Festival de la Sopa, un evento

único. Se trata de un concurso que

anima a los participantes cocinar la

mejor sopa del certamen y permite a

los visitantes disfrutar de una amplia

variedad de sabores, desde sopas

tradicionales polacas como el zurek

hasta recetas innovadoras como La

sopa de tomate y plátano. Por la

noche, la cerveza y un concierto al aire

libre en medio de la plaza cogen todo

el protagonismo del festival.

ENG ES

A corner of Kazimierz that featured in Steven Spierlberg’s film Schindler’s List Kazimierz captured from a hot air baloon

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Kraków has many cinemas to boast about, but only one like this. ARS opened its doors first time in 1916 and is the oldest cinema in Kraków still to be operational. The cinema has kept the old style and is a truly different and more personal experience than all of the huge and anonymously mundane multiplexes otherwise scattered around the city.

There are five unique viewing halls of

varying sizes, seating from 20 to 170

individuals, each hall with a different

seating arrangement – some feature

traditional cinema chairs, others have

more comfortable armchairs. Even

if located in an old building with

wooden staircases and other “old

world grandness”, ARS was actually

one of the first cinemas in Poland to

Krakow har mange biografer, men kun én som denne. ARS slog første gang dørene op i 1916 og er den ældste biograf i Krakow stadig i brug. Biografen har beholdt den oprindelige stil, og er i sandhed en anderledes og mere personlig oplevelse end de enorme, men anonyme multiplex-biografer, der ellers er spredt gavmildt over hele byen.

Der er fem sale af varierende

størrelse, med pladser til mellem 20

og 170 biografgængere; hver sal med

hver sin sædeindretning – nogle har

almindelige biografsæder og andre

har komfortable lænestole. Selvom

biografen er beliggende i en gammel

bygning, der har beholdt meget af sin

oprindelige storhed, var ARS faktisk

en af de allerførste biografer i Polen til

Kraków has many cinemas to boast

about, but only one like this. Discover why Jens, originally from

Denmark, was captured by the unique ambience

of this hidden jewel of the city’s cultural

scene.

ARS - Kraków Artistic Cinema Centre

by Jens Markussen

ENG DK

ARS Cinema is located in the heart of the Old Town

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install Dolby Digital Surround.

Sadly, ARS was on the verge of closing

down in spring time 2012, as the

private owners of the building on ul.

św. Jana planned to increase the rent

with 100 % - something the cinema

could not cope with. Fans of the

cinema were angered and local media

roared, recalling with horror how the

art nouveau cinema of Kino Wanda a

few hundred meters away had been

turned into a supermarket a few years

Highlights

at installere Dolby Digital Surround.

ARS var beklageligvis tæt på at lukke

i foråret 2012, da de private ejere af

bygningen på ul. św. Jana pludseligt

planlagde at øge huslejen med 100

% - noget biografen ikke var gearet

til kunne håndtere. Biografens

tilhængere var rasende og de lokale

medier buldrede mod planerne,

genkaldende med rædsel for sig

hvordan en gammel art nouveau

biograf i nærheden, Kino Wanda, var

blevet forvandlet til et supermarked

blot få år tidligere.

ARS så ud til at lide samme skæbne,

da et kompromis mellem parterne

pludseligt blev indgået. Selvom det

kompromis indebar, at biografen

mistede sin største sal og dermed 240

pladser, betyder det også, at du stadig

har muligheden for at se en film her.

Gør endeligt det – før det er for sent.

ENG DK

earlier.

It seemed like the ARS complex were

facing the same fate when suddenly a

compromise between the owners and

the tenants was reached. Even if that

deal meant taking away the biggest

viewing hall and thus 240 seats, you

still have the chance to go and enjoy a

film here - but go before it turns into a

Carrefour grocery store.

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This is a tiny, modern place where

activists from local NGOs like to meet

over a cup of high-quality organic and

fair-trade coffee that has been selected

and roasted by the owner. The coffee

was even presented at the Nordic

Roaster Competition in Oslo for the

first time in 2013, an idea supported

by the coffee shop’s Norwegian

customers in Kraków.

On weekdays, anyone can meet at

Karma between 9:00 am and 7:00 pm

(11:00 am-7:00 pm on weekends). The

atmosphere is very home-like, where

the natural wood and pastel colours

let the light in, but with a messy

touch... A few small tables provide

seating for around 30 customers. A

bigger table, which can fit up to 8

popping individuals, is very popular at

lunchtime.

Karma not only serves delicious

Karma Coffee Roasters, une goutte de café dans l’océan du développement durable.

Sur la rue Krupnicza, qui compte le plus de commerces bio qu’aucune autre de Kraków; Karma est sans doute la première cafétéria de la ville à indiquer clairement au menu ses repas végétaliens et sans gluten.

Les activistes des ONG locales

aiment venir dans ce petit bistro

moderne, pour y discuter leurs plans

de changer le monde autour d’une

tasse d’excellent café bio et équitable,

torréfié par le propriétaire. Ce café a

même participé à la Nordic Roaster

Competition 2013 à Oslo, une idée

soutenue par les clients norvégiens

habitués de cette cafétéria de

Cracovie.

Located on Krupnicza Street, which hosts the

largest concentration of eco facilities in Kraków, Karma is probably the first lunch bar in town with vegan and gluten-

free meals clearly indicated on its menu.

Karma Coffee Roasters: A little drop

of coffee in the ocean of sustainable change

by Elisabeth Wójcik

ENG FR

Interiors of Karma lunch bar. Source: Karma

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organic food around noon, but is

also famous for its breakfasts in

the morning and delicious snacks

throughout the day. The friendly

staff provides good service, though

you might wait a little for your order,

especially if you are with a group of

more than four people. To enjoy Slow

Food during a quick lunch break, a

better option might be to order soup

and a salad. The restaurant’s price

range is affordable.

You might also enjoy the relaxed

mood of the place and stay a little

longer, reading the local newspapers

or (not necessarily the most current)

magazines, which are available

for guests. Even children will find

a couple of toys in the small kid’s

corner.

It is definitely a must try for all eco-

food lovers, at least on their way to

one of the neighbouring ecological

shops and restaurants.

For more information, check the

Karma’s Facebook page.

Highlights

En semaine, chacun peut passer à

Karma entre 09h00 et 19h00 (11h00-

19h00 les samedis et dimanches) et

s’y sentir comme chez-soi. L’intérieur

lumineux est décoré de bois naturel

et de couleurs pastel, avec un léger

laisser-aller… Les quelques tables

couvrent environ 30 couverts. La table

d’hôte de huit personnes est souvent

partagée par des inconnus pendant

l’heure de pointe.

À Karma, on sert des repas bio

végétariens à midi, mais le café

est tout aussi réputé pour son

petit-déjeuner du matin et les en-

cas légers disponibles toute la

journée. Le personnel est aimable

et le service convenable, bien qu’il

arrive d’attendre un peu pour sa

commande, surtout pour les groupes

de plus de quatre personnes. Pour

manger du Slow Food vite fait à votre

pause-déjeuner, préférez une soupe

accompagnée d’une salade. Les prix

du restaurant sont raisonnables.

Pour apprécier l’ambiance relaxante

de l’endroit, restez-y un peu

plus longtemps : des journaux et

magazines (pas toujours les plus

récents) sont à votre disposition.

Les enfants aussi trouveront de quoi

s’amuser dans le coin de jeux.

Karma est certainement un

incontournable pour tous les amateurs

d’alimentation bio, ne serait-ce

qu’en chemin vers les boutiques et

restaurants écologiques du voisinage.

Pour en savoir plus, consultez le profil

sur Facebook de Karma.

ENG FR

“ It is definitely a must try for all eco-food

lovers...”

“ Un incontournable pour tous les amateurs d’alimentation bio...”

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The Schindler’s Factory museum houses a vast collection of artefacts and memorabilia from the German Nazi occupation of Kraków during World War II, effectively evoking the atmosphere of Poland’s troubled past.

One should set aside plenty of time.

On my first visit, I spent four hours

taking in the history of wartime

Kraków showcased through sounds,

images, genuine artefacts and

endless recorded and written

testimonies by local residents. Still,

I left with the feeling that I had not

even seen half of all the things on

display.

One of many lingering impressions

is the street sign of Plac Rynek (the

main square in the Old Town) that

Museet Schindler’s Factory fokuserar på tiden runt nazisternas ockupation av Kraków under andra världskriget. Här finns en enorm samling föremål som effektivt frammanar denna synnerligen mörka tid i Polens historia.

Det är en bra idé att ha gott om tid.

Första gången jag var här tillbringade

jag fyra timmar bland ljud, bilder,

filmer och prylar som ger liv till

Kraków under kriget, inklusive otaliga

inspelade och nedskrivna vittnesmål

från lokalbefolkningen. Trots det

långa besöket kändes det som om jag

knappt hunnit med hälften av allt som

visas upp härinne.

Ett av många intryck som etsat sig

fast är torget Ryneks gatuskylt,

som nazisterna först ändrade till

Schindler’s Factory Museum

by Anja Wedberg

ENG SE

Anja, originally from Sweden, spent

hours taking in thehistory of wartime

Kraków, showcasedthrough sounds,

images, artefacts andendless recorded andwritten testimonies.

Schindler’s Factory Museum in Kraków

The museum is located in Oscar Schindler’s

old enamel factory in Podgórze.

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the Nazis changed first to Alter Markt

and then – shudder – to Adolf Hitler

Platz. Another lasting image is a

handwritten note from a seven-year-

old Roman Polanski, Polish directory

who survived Jewish Ghetto in

German Nazi occupied Kraków.

The museum is located in Oscar

Schindler’s old enamel factory in

Podgórze, just south of the Wisła

River (and next to the brilliant

contemporary art museum MOCAK).

It is open Tuesdays-Sundays from

10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. and on

Mondays from 10:00 a.m. to 2:00

p.m., apart from the first Monday of

every month when it is closed.

Entrance is PLN 15 ( concessions PLN

13, family ticket PLN 40). Entrance

is free on Mondays – however, the

number of visitors is restricted due to

safety reasons, so be sure to get there

early or book your ticket in advance.

Highlights

Alter Markt och sedan – jag ryser

– till Adolf Hitler Platz. En annan

bestående minnesbild är den

handskrivna dagboksanteckningen

från en sju år gammal Roman

Polanski.

Museet ligger i Oscar Schindlers

gamla fabrikslokaler i Podgórze, strax

söder om ån Wisła (och vägg i vägg

med ett annat utmärkt museum,

MOCAK – stadens största samling

samtida konst). Schindler’s Factory

har öppet från kl. 10.00 till kl. 18.00

tisdag-söndag och från 10.00 till

14.00 på måndagar, förutom första

måndagen varje månad då det är

stängt.

Inträde PLN 15 (halv biljett PLN 13,

familjebiljett PLN 40). På måndagar

kan du faktiskt gå in helt gratis,

förutsatt att du är kommer i tid:

antalet besökare är begränsat av

säkerhetsskäl. För att vara på säkra

sidan kan du boka biljett i förväg.

ENG SE

A map of Kraków during World War II. Source: Schindler’s Factory Museum

The exhibition Kraków during World War II. Source: Schindler’s Factory Museum

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Kraków´s restaurant scene ranges from simple Polish cooking to gourmet restaurants of various national cuisines. For sure, the ever-present Pizza-Kebab-Chinese-delight is not missed out. The offer for epicureans is clearly defined, though not outstanding. One of Kraków’s mavericks operates by the Wawel Castle. The restaurant Pod Wawelem leaves gastronomic classifications in its wake.

Classical string music is on display in

the high-ceilinged and 150-year-old

main hall. Costumed waiters swarm

out with ultralarge plates and heavy

jugs of beer to rows of tables fully

occupied by guests from around the

world. In spite of the struggle to find a

balance between kitsch and nostalgia,

between beer tent vibe and tradition,

Pod Wawelem – der Habsburger im polnischen Bierzelt

Krakaus Restaurantszene reicht von

einfacher, polnischer Küche bis zu

Gourmetrestaurants verschiedener

Landesküchen. Natürlich darf auch

die allgegenwärtige Pizza-Kebab-

Chinesisch-Beglückung nicht fehlen.

Das lukullische Angebot ist klar

definiert, jedoch wenig originell.

Einer der seltenen gastronomischen

Eigenbrötler Krakaus bewirtet im

Süden der Altstadt. Das Restaurant

Pod Wawelem – wie der Name schon

verrät, liegt das Lokal gleich neben

dem Wawel – schert sich nicht um

gastronomische Klassifizierungen.

Im hohen Hauptraum des 150

Jahre alten Lokals wird klassische

Streichmusik gespielt. Kellner in

Trachten flitzen mit übergroßen

Platten und schweren Bierkrügen

beladen durch die vollbesetzten

Tischreihen. Trotz des Spagats

Pod Wawelem - The Habsburg in a Polish beer tent

by Christian Hamp

ENG DE

... the size of the dishes vary between challenging

and impossible. The opulent meat skewer

hardly fits into a wide-angel lense and can only be conquered

through collective effort, reports Chris from ‘Pod

Wawelem.’

‘Pod Wawelem’ located next to Hotel Royal

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the restaurant creates an atmosphere

of sociality for locals and tourists

alike.

Not only is the ambience piled on. The

dishes on the menu are predominantly

Polish, though Austrian and Bavarian

classics are on offer as well – among

them the perhaps best Wiener

schnitzel and crispiest pork knuckle

in town. Besides litre-sized steins of

beer, Austrian wines are also served.

One thing the menu does not reveal is

the true dimensions of the dishes.

While prices are surprisingly low

and the quality meanders around

good middle-class, the size of the

dishes vary between challenging and

impossible. In particular, the opulent

meat skewer hardly fits into a wide-

angle lens and can only be conquered

through collective effort. For the

extra-motivated guests who prefer to

play a lone hand, Pod Wawelem offers

one more fact: the sanitary facilities

include a designated stainless steel

vomit basin. It was not handed down,

if it had been used by the Habsburgs.

Highlights

zwischen Kitsch und Nostalgie,

zwischen Bierzelt-Stimmung und

Tradition, schafft das Lokal eine

Atmosphäre der Geselligkeit bei

Einheimischen wie Touristen.

Dick aufgetragen wird nicht nur

beim Ambiente. Die Speisekarte gibt

sich durchaus polnisch, bietet aber

auch österreichische und bayrische

Klassiker – darunter das vielleicht

beste Wiener Schnitzel und die

knusprigste Schweinshaxe der Stadt.

Neben Bier im Maßkrug werden auch

österreichische Weine serviert. Was

die Speisekarte jedoch nicht verrät, ist

das wahre Dimension der Speisen.

Während die Preise überraschend

niedrig sind und die Qualität

gutbürgerlichen Durschnitts

entspricht, variiert die Größe der

Gerichte zwischen herausfordernd

und unmöglich. Vor allem der

opulente Grillspieß passt kaum in

das Weitwinkelobjektiv der Kameras,

und ist nur in Gruppenarbeit zu

bewältigen. Sollten besonders

motivierte Gäste dennoch einen

Alleingang wagen, bietet das Pod

Wawelem eine weitere Skurrilität: Zu

den sanitären Einrichtungen gehört

ein designiertes Brechbecken aus

Edelstahl. Ob dieses schon von den

Habsburgern genutzt wurde, ist nicht

überliefert.

ENG DE

Dining out at Pod Wawelem

“ Not only is the ambience piled on. The dishes on the menu are predominantly Polish, though Austrian and Bavarian classics are

on offer as well.”

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Enjoy your leisure time and explore Kraków from an uncharacteristic vantage point: the banks – or even atop the waves – of the Wisła River.

Being the longest and the most

important river in Poland, the Wisła

River (English: The Vistula) used to

be the main trade route in Poland.

Today it serves as an important hub

for entertainment and cultural events.

For many years, the river’s banks have

been home to an important festival

in Kraków: Wianki, an annual

celebration of the summer solstice.

This festival is accompanied by live

music and street fairs and crowned

with a 15-minute firework show.

The Wisła River has played an

important role in Kraków’s many

legends. While it used to be an idyllic

Geniet van je vrije tijd en verken Kraków vanuit een ongebruikelijke invalshoek: de oevers en het kabbelende water van de Wisła.

De langste en meest belangrijkste rivier in Polen, de Vistula (Pools: Wisła) was de voornaamste handelsroute in Polen. Vandaag de dag dient het als een belangrijke hub voor entertainment en culturele evenementen. Al vele jaren zijn de oevers van de rivier de thuisbasis geweest voor een belangrijk festival in Krakau: Wianki, een jaarlijkse viering van de zomerzonnewende. Dit festival wordt vergezeld met live muziek en braderieën en wordt bekroond met een 15-minuten vuurwerkshow.

De Wisła speelt een belangrijke rol in vele legendes van Krakau. Terwijl het vroeger een idyllische plek voor zwemmers was is het vandaag de dag

Kraków’s lifeblood - The Wisła River

by Anna Cieśla and Derk Zjip

ENG NL

A city’s charm is more than just the

sheen of its facades - Anna and Derk take you down the city’s

main avenue- its river.

The Wisła River is lined with restaurant and bar boats

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place for swimmers, nowadays

swimming in the Wisła River is

prohibited. You can, however, enjoy a

kayak or canoe trip along its banks.

In recent years, cruises on the Wisła

River have not only become one of the

city’s main tourist attractions, but a

great alternative for business parties

and family reunions as well. Recently,

offering marina accommodations

as well. A comfortable boat, cosily

floating in a scenic setting combined

with snacks and a beer, makes it a

unique and unforgettable experience.

Highlights

verboden om in de Wisła te zwemmen. Je kunt echter wel genieten van eenkajak- of kanotocht langs de oevers. In de afgelopen jaren zijn cruises op de Wisła niet alleen uitgegroeid tot een van de belangrijkste toeristische attracties van de stad, maar is het ook een geweldig alternatief voor bedrijfsfeesten en familiebijeenkomsten. Sinds kort bieden ze eveneens accommodaties aan op de jachthaven. Een comfortabele boot, gezellig varende in een schilderachtige omgeving in combinatie met lekkere hapjes en een biertje, maakt het een unieke en

onvergetelijke ervaring.

Een trip over het water biedt ook een mooie gelegenheid om een aantal van de historische plekjes van de stad te verkennen, zoals het middeleeuwse kasteel de Wawel, de benedictijner abdij in Tyniec en de twee oudste wijken, Podgórze en Kazimierz. Daarnaast kan je ook dineren en feesten op het water, of gewoon genieten op het bovendek en de koele bries op je gezicht voelen. Je kunt kiezen uit korte cruises tot tours die meer dan een paar uur duren. Er zijn genoeg opties. De keuze is aan jou.

ENG NL

A water trip also provides a great

opportunity to explore some of

the city’s historical spots, such as

the medieval Wawel Castle, the

Benedictine abbey in Tyniec, and

two oldest districts, Podgórze and

Kazimierz. In addition, a tourist may

also have dinner there, go to a party

on the water, or just find a seat on the

upper deck and feel the cool breeze

on your face. You can choose from

short cruises to tours that last several

hours. Options are many. The choice

is yours.

The Royal Castle on Wawel Hill by the Wisła river. Footbridge leading to old Podgórze quarter.

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Cupcake Corner Bakery

If you’re looking for a lovely place to catch your breath while sightseeing, Cupcake Corner is the café you should visit. The white-blue-brown striped walls, combined with wooden tables and Jack Johnson-like music in the air, invite you to stay, read a magazine and enjoy your coffee break.

Placed in the heart of Kraków, the three locations of this adorable bakery

are easy to find and hard to forget: ul. Bracka 4, ul. Grodzka 60, and ul.

Michałowskiego 14. These venues are worth circling on your map.

In the bakery you will find fantastic cupcakes baked every day. They look

amazing: colourful frosting, small cherries on top or sprinkles all over. You

can have cupcakes that taste of real red velvet, banana split, and cookie dough

– you name it. The insides of cupcakes often hide some sweet surprise like

strawberries or chocolate. For muffin lovers, the bakery has sweet and savoury

muffins.

In the summer, this destination spot has introduced homemade ice cream. All

this tasty food is surrounded by the smell of freshly roasted organic coffee. The

staff is always kind and helpful, making your experience even better.

Устали от прогулок по городу? Отдохните! Переведите дыхание в уютном кафе «Cupcake Corner», полистайте журналы и просто расслабьтесь за чашечкой кофе. Насладитесь временем, проведенном в стильной обстановке: стены в полоску, деревянные столики и музыка в стиле Джека Джонсона.

Расположенные в самом сердце Кракова аж три кафе – их легко найти и невозможно забыть. Брацка (Bracka)4, Гродзка (Grodzka) 60 и Михаловскего (Michałowskiego) 14 – отметьте их на своей карте.

by Katarzyna Morzewska and Elena Gordeeva - Voot

ENG RUS

Visit Cupcake corner just off Karmelicka street.

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Simplicity, fresh products and the

final touch – decorations of those little

pieces of art – make your visit truly

enjoyable.

Bakeries are quite small, so it’s good

to come with one or two friends and

truly benefit from this charming place

together. You can eat in or get a take-

away to share with your friends or

family on the Planty or by the Wisła

River on a sunny day.

Highlights

Здесь вам предложат свежие и невероятно вкусные капкейки. Выглядят они изумительно: цветная глазурь, вишенка сверху или полностью обсыпанные конфетти. А внутри капкейка не раз скрыт какой-то сладкий сюрприз – клубника, к примеру, или шоколадка. Любители кекса могут выбрать сладкий кекс или со пряным вкусом. Летом кондитерская предлагает своим посетителям мороженое домашнего приготовления. И все эти вкусные сладости в сочетании с парящим в воздухе ароматом свежеобжаренного органического кофе – что может быть совершеннее?! Приветливый и любезный персонал сделают ваше пребывание еще более приятным и комфортным.

Впечатляет простота во всем, свежесть продуктов и все то, как украшены эти крошечные шедевры. Кондитерские довольно маленькие, поэтому сюда хорошо прийти в небольшой компании и по настоящему насладиться вместе этим очаровательным местом. Вы можете остаться на месте, а в солнечный день лучше забрать еду и напитки с собой и пойти с близкими в знаменитый краковский парк Планты или на набережную Вислы.

http://cupcakecorner.pl

ENG RUS

“Simplicity, fresh products and

the final touch – decorations of those little pieces of art –

make your visit truly enjoyable. “

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Dajwór Street in Kazimierz:

Unexpected and worth exploring

by Michał Steckiw and Salvatore Carfora

Unexpected, charming and on the rise. When visiting Kazimierz, make sure you do not miss Dajwór Street, just behind the old synagogue and the remains of the medieval city walls that used to surround Kraków’s Jewish district.

At first sight, the street may not strike

you as anything special – but do not

let the aged facades of the buildings

fool you. Wander down the road

to discover the Galicyan Jewish Museum, the famous bagel shop Bagelmama (the only of its kind in

Kraków), the Cosa Nostra Italian restaurant and an innovative

burger place in the corner of Dajwór

Street and Wawrzyńca Street. The

old tramway line will lead you to the

Kraków Engineering Museum on

Warzynca Street. Few meters left off

Dajwór, on Wawrzyńca street there is

the best Syrian Kebab in town I AM SAMI.

At the weekend, check out Kitsch in

the old printing house at 16 Dajwór

Street – a recently re-opened club

and bar attracting all kinds of young

people, made of several chambers and

inner beer garden. What’s more? This

is one of very few streets in the old

city where you can easily find parking

space, and the bustling Plac Nowy

and Szeroka Street are within walking

distance.

Sorprendente, incantevole e in continua crescita. Quando vi trovate a Kazimierz, non dimenticate di fare un giro su Ulica Dajwór, alle spalle dell’antica sinagoga nei pressi dei resti delle mura medievali che anticamente circondavano il ghetto di Cracovia.

Ad una prima occhiata questa strada

può sembrare come tutte le altre, ma

non lasciatevi ingannare dalle facciate

dei suoi vecchi edifici. Percorrendola

scoprirete il Museo Ebreo della

Galizia, il famoso negozio di bagel

Bagelmama (l’unico nel suo genere a

Cracovia), il ristorante italiano Cosa

Nostra e un innovativo fast-food

dedicato agli hamburger all’angolo

tra Ulica Dajwór e Ulica Wawrzyńca.

I vecchi binari del tram vi porteranno

Museo dell’Ingegneria su Ulica

Warzynca. Nel fine settimana fate

un salto al Kitsch situato nell’antica

tipografia al numero 16 di Ulica

Dajwór: una discoteca amata dai

giovani recentemente riaperta. Non vi

basta? Questa è una delle poche strade

del centro storico dove troverete

facilmente parcheggio (sia custodito

che pubblico), e le movimentate Plac

Nowy e Ulica Szeroka si trovano a

pochi passi da qui.

ENG ITA

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Hundreds of pubs and restaurants dot the landscape in old Kraków, but there are only a few high-quality cafes and chocolatiers. A secret has to be answered: Where are these sought-after locations? Chocolate lovers, of course, will search high and low. Finally, you will find chocolate heaven at 8 Wiślna Street. It is called Choco café.

I found it by accident and was

immediately amazed by its design

and ambience. The tempting aroma

of chocolate and coffee could be

experienced in the café’s every nook

and corner. Chill out music switched

on my lazy-ego and allowed me

to relax as I tasted deep original

hot chocolate with raspberries.

The amazing mix of tastes – sweet

Hundrevis av puber og restauranter preger landskapet i Krakows gamle bydel, men det finnes også et fåtall cafeer og chocolaterier av ypperste kvalitet. Hvor de finnes er imidlertid en godt bevart hemmelighet. Hvis du er sjokoladeelsker finner du din sjokoladehimmel i 8 Wiślna gate. Stedet heter Choco café. Jeg fant stedet ved en tilfeldighet

og ble umiddelbart sjarmert av dets

atmosfære. Den fristende aromaen

av sjokolade og kaffe kunne kjennes

i enhver krik og krok. Avslappende

musikk tiltalte mitt late alter-ego og

tillot meg å virkelig slappe av mens jeg

nøt smaken av en original kakao med

bringebær. Den utrolige blandingen

av smaker – søtt og sur, varmt og

Choco café:

chocolate heaven in Kraków

by Grzegorz Kałucki and Hilde Merete Udnaes

ENG NOR

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and sour, hot and cold, fruits and

chocolate – was an ideal combination

for me!

Having already visited Choco Cafe

several times, I know that I prefer to

sit in the darker, cosy corners, where

shadowy light sustains romantic

moments and lets the time fly by…

You can taste soft but deep espresso

(as my Italian coffee fans used to

say), order a huge cappuccino, and

consume a variety of deserts or

fresh juice. The place was recently

rebranded. Slight renovations have

enhanced the space and highlighted

the attractive interior design.

Simply put, Choco café is a must visit for chocolate lovers who visit Kraków’s Old Town.

Highlights

kaldt, frukt og sjokolade – var den

ideelle kombinasjonen for meg.

Etter den tid har jeg har besøkt Choco

Café en rekke ganger. Jeg foretrekker

å sitte i en av de mørke, hyggelige

krokene, hvor et skyggefullt lys skaper

en romantisk atmosfære og lar tiden

fly forbi… Du kan kjenne den myke,

men dype espressosmaken (som

mine italienske kaffeelskere pleier

å si), bestille en stor cappuccino

eller nyte det store utvalget av

desserter eller friske juicer. Stedet

fikk nylig nytt navn og gjennomgikk

en mindre ombygging som utvidet

arealet og fikk fremhevet den flotte

interiørarkitekturen. Choco café er

rett og slett et sted du må besøke i

gamlebyen i Krakow.

ENG NOR

Try a soft but deep espresso,

order a hugecappuccino or

consume a variety of deserts and fresh juice.

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We Recommend

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Fitness PlatiniumRecently refurbished, large gym in an

industrial area. Recommended for the

great equipment and location close to

the centre.

mogilska.fitnessplatinium.pl

Park Wodny/ Aquapark GymSpacious gym above the aqua park

leisure centre with saunas, swimming

pools, water slides and restaurants.

parkwodny.pl/en

Pure GymsA chain gym with two locations in the

city centre by Galeria Kazimierz and

by Angel City complex. Quite pricey by

Kraków standards.

purepoland.com

Galeria KazimierzAn array of clothing stores, luxury

boutiques, cinemas, a branch of the

eminent Alma supermarket, gym

& swiming pool, restaurants and

more; located next to the river bank

in Kazimierz on Podgórska street.

Probably the most prestigious of the

shopping centres in Kraków.

galeriakazimierz.pl

Futura Park OutletFutura Park lies on the western

outskirts of the city, but it may be

worth the trip if you want to save a

złoty or two on last season’s designer

clothes. Here is also a large Alma

supermarket with specialities from

your home country.

futurapark.pl/?lang=en

M180 shops of all kinds – international

brands and local retailers – under one

roof and 42,000 square metres. Here

is also a big Real hypermarket and

an enormous Praktiker for the do-it-

yourself types out there.

krakow.m1-centrum.pl

Jama Michalika (Old Town)Voted as one of the 15 best

historic cafés in Europe by Global

Grasshopper in 2012, Jama Michalika

has been the most popular café with

local artists for almost one hundred

years.

jamamichalika.pl

Cafe Foyer (Old Town)The café in the basement of the

Juliusz Słowacki Theatre has a fancy

interior that refers to famous Polish

actors and the repertoire in the

theatre’s event calendar. The café also

hosts regular jazz concerts.

cafefoyer.pl

Café Camelot (Old Town)One of the most beautiful cafes in

Poland, Camelot offers a relaxed old-

fashioned candlelit atmosphere and

excellent coffee and food.

Cafe Kalashnikov (Kazimierz)A café, bar and club for visitors

seeking something new and original.

Gyms

Malls

Cafes

Fitness AcademyModern gym with a swimming pool.

Recommended for the spacious

premises and the interior design.

www.fitnessacademy.pl

Bonarka City CenterBonarka is the biggest shopping

centre in Kraków with around 270

shops, including a huge Auchan

hypermarket, clothes and fashion

shops to keep everyone happy,

cinemas for the movie fans and lots of

restaurants and cafés. Five kilometres

south of the city centre.

bonarkacitycenter.pl

Galeria KrakowskaA shopping centre next to main

railway station, with fashion

boutiques, a Carrefour supermarket,

gym, cafés and fast food. Great

location next to the main train station

and only five minutes on foot from the

main market square.

galeria-krakowska.pl

Galeria Krakowska Shopping Centre.

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Eastern European communism

flavour décor and great energy.

Bożego Ciała 7 street, Kazimierz.

Kraina Szeptów Café (Kazimierz) Arty café and pub with bohemian

interior – check out the bell in the

ceiling that announces the next round

of beer! In wintertime, the fireplace

keeps guests warm and cosy. During

summer the small front patio allows

the guests to breathe fresh air and

feel the beat of Plac Nowy. Popular

with visitors and locals alike. Located

on the corner of Plac Nowy on Izaaka

street. Facebook Page.

FarinaLocated in a historic palace tenement

building in the heart of Kraków’s

Old Town, this is one of the best

restaurants in Kraków for homemade

pasta, fresh fish and seafood.

farina.com.pl

Yellow Dog The only true Asian cuisine restaurant

we know in Kraków. Located on

charming Krupnicza street.

facebook.com/restauracja.Yellow.Dog

Jarema Typical cuisine from Kresy, the former

territory of the Eastern provinces

of Poland. The old-time evocative

decoration and live music create a

cosy atmosphere.

jarema.pl

Zielona KuchniaIf you want fresh food from an

innovative, contemporary menu,

this restaurant is just what you have

been looking for. It is usually among

the top restaurants in Kraków on

TripAdvisor.

zielonakuchnia.eu

Warsztat Restaurant & CaféCharming restaurant with two

locations in trendy Kazimierz:

on Izaaka 3 and Bozego Ciala 1.

Recommended for pasta, pizza, sweets

and coffee. restauracjawarsztat.pl

ValparaísoThe best Spanish restaurant in

Poland and the best outside of Spain,

according to our Spanish Editor.

The owner serves an authentic, arty

selection of dishes from Spain and

his native Chile, and wines imported

directly from Spanish vineyards.

Located in Kazimierz, a five-minute

walk from Wawel, this restaurant is a

must for all lovers of Spanish cuisine.

Five stars from the Think Kraków

editorial team.

Read More...

WierzynekWierzynek Restaurant is famous for

its Polish cuisine, unique atmosphere

and the longest tradition of feasting in

Poland. It is inspired by the splendid

feast hosted by Mikolai Wierzynek

in 1364, which many great European

monarchs attended. This is a magical

place - impossible to miss when

visiting the main market square

Rynek.

wierzynek.com.pl

Restaurants

Starka A little treasure in Kazimierz, not far

from the lively Plac Nowy. Modern

Polish food, great wines and a relaxed

atmosphere.

starka-restauracja.pl

Kraina Szeptów Cafe, next to Plac Nowy.

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Home Army MuseumThe Home Army Museum is the only

institution in Poland devoted to the

Polish underground movement and

its armed forces during World War II.

Learn about the tragic history of Poland and the struggle against Nazi Germany and the Soviet Union. Fantastic building made of

heritage army barracks and modern

interior courtyard. One of the best

new museums in Kraków. muzeum-

ak.pl/english/index.php

Schindler’s Factory MuseumIt was Steven Spielberg who made

Oscar Schindler’s story well known

worldwide. His Oscar winning epic Schindler’s List from 1993 was filmed in Kraków, in the buildings of the old Schindler’s factory amongst other places. The buildings now house a museum

showcasing the life in the city during

the Nazi occupation from 1939-1945.

Read More...

naturally lit, straight-lined rooms. The

building was designed by the Italian

architect Claudio Nardi and has a total

floor area of almost 10,000 square

metres. www.mocak.pl

Museums

Historic Rynek Underground MuseumThis underground museum in the

very heart of Kraków opened in 2010,

and showcases the history of the city

from the first settlements to present

day. The museum features modern

touchscreens and holograms as well

as original artefacts such as old coins

and a horse’s skull. The queues in

front of the entrance at the Cloth Hall

on the main square can be quite long,

as only 300 visitors are allowed at a

time. Visit Website for more info.

MangghaThis centre, the only one of its kind

in Europe, has two main functions

– it is a traditional museum and a

cultural centre under one roof. As is

implied in the name, it is dedicated to Japanese objects and lectures on Japanese culture and life. The

location on the river bank opposite the

Wawel Castle could not be better.

manggha.pl/en/o-nas

Museum of Contemporary ArtAs one of the most recent additions

to the long list of museums in

Kraków, MOCAK will not disappoint

you. You will be amazed at the

latest international art presented in

Top: Historic Museum underneath the Rynek square. Left: Home Army Museum.

MOCAK Musem in Zabłocie quarter. Check our interactive map on page 3 for location details.

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Hotel StaryHome of the English national

football team during the UEFA 2012

championship, this is a heritage

building redesigned to impress even

the most sophisticated visitors. It won first prize in the renowned Paris contest Prix Villégiature as ”the most beautiful hotel interior design in Europe”.stary.hotel.com.pl

Bonerowski Palace HotelThe Bonerowski Palace is located in

a meticulously restored and richly

refurbished UNESCO building dating

back to the Middle Ages. The palace

also prides itself on Europé’s longest,

22-meter long chandelier. Situated

on the corner of Św. Jana Street and

the old market square (Rynek), the

palace windows overlook St. Mary

Basilica, Drapers Hall (Sukiennice),

St. Wojciech’s Church and the statue

of Adam Mickiewicz.

palacbonerowski.com

Sheraton HotelHome of the Dutch national football

team during the UEFA 2012

championship. Situated underneath

the Wawel Royal Castle hill, this is

one of Kraków’s largest hotels with

conference facilities.

sheraton.pl/krakow

Hotel Copernicus Hotel Copernicus is located

on Kanonicza Street, Kraków’s

oldest street that winds its way

toward Wawel Castle. Amidst

the neighbouring Renaissance

townhouses, Copernicus stands out

with its distinct Gothic façade. It is the

only hotel in Poland affiliated to the

exclusive French hotel alliance Relais

et Châteaux. Sleep under original

renaissance frescoes or dive in the

underground medieval swimming

pool. Copernicus has hosted many

celebrities and is one of the most

prestigious places to stay while in

Kraków.

copernicus.hotel.com.pl

Radisson SASStay at the elegant Radisson next to

the old Philharmonic hall, within

walking distance of both Wawel Castle

and the main square Rynek. A hotel

for leisure and business travellers

alike.

radissonblu.com/hotel-krakow

Andels Hotel This modern hotel is part of the

Vienna International Hotels group

and brings interesting design

and functionality to the city’s old

world charm. Located next to

the main railway station and the

Galeria Krakowska shopping mall.

andelskrakow.com

Goodbye Lenin Hostel Communism retro style hostel offers

budget accommodation with a great

bar and lots of interesting features.

Popular among young foreign visitors

who want to get a taste of Polish

socialism. Original and good quality

hostel, well recommended.

goodbyelenin.pl

Accommodation

Greg & Tom Party HostelMeals, concerts and parties, every

day of the week in a great location.

Recommended by international travel

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guides for those who want to have fun

and socialise with fellow travellers.

gregtomhostel.com

Airbnb websiteThis popular website with short term

apartment rentals also has a good

selection of private apartments and

budget accommodation in Kraków’s

old town.

airbnb.com

Singer (Kazimierz)Singer was one of the first bars in

Kazimierz, and it set the standard high

for those that followed. Here a mix of

locals and tourists are found dancing

to a mix of gypsy, klezmer and swing

music. If you wonder why this bar

shares its name with a manufacturer

of sewing machines, well – you need

to go there to find out.

Re (Old Town)Re is renowned for its wonderful beer

garden, which is lined with trees – be

sure to make a reservation in advance.

This bar also excels in attracting

interesting and upcoming bands to

perform on the small stage in the

basement..

Spokój (Old Town)Difficult to find, but definitely worth

the trouble. Spokój means “peace”,

but expect anything apart from that.

Colourful and slightly worn-out

interior, funky music, happy people –

what’s not to like?

La HabanaA taste of Cuba in Kraków, this Cuban

bar serves some of the best mojitos

in town to the sounds of Cuban and

Latin American music. After a few

shots of Havana Club, you will feel like

you are in a bar on a Cuban island.

Park JordanaWhile you will find playgrounds at

most of Kraków’s parks and green

recreational areas, few are as well-

equipped as the ones at Park Jordana.

Slides, sandpits, swings, you name

it – it is all here in abundance. The

park is also good for practising the

first, wobbly moves on a bicycle or

roller-skates, and for sledding come

wintertime.

Read More...

Park Wodny/GibbonAs one of the most advanced water

parks in Europe, with almost 800

metres of slides, a climbing wall and

lots of other fun features, Park Wodny

is a paradise for kids and adults who

like playing around in the water.

Downstairs is a big play area called

Gibbon, where you can leave the kids

under supervision, if you prefer to

do your 1,000 metre swim without

having to worry about the little ones.

parkwodny.pl/en

Drukarnia (Podgorze)Drukarnia was originally located on

the main market square, before it

moved to Kazimierz. When the crowds

discovered Kazimierz, it moved again

– this time to Podgórze, the area

south of the river that is now gaining

popularity on the club scene. Located

by the magical Kładka foodbridge.

Drukarnia is surely ahead of its time

but once inside, you are moved back

in time.

drukarniaclub.pl

Bars

For kids

Park Wodny with almost 800 metres of slides

The La Habana bar in Kazimierz offers a taste of Cuba with the best mojitos in town

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Garden of ExperimentsThe Stanislaw Lem Garden of

Experiments is an open-air

educational garden full of fun for the

whole family. Covering six hectares of

the gigantic Park Lotnikow Polskich

between the city centre and Nowa

Huta, the garden has something for

all your senses. Afterwards you can

visit the slide paradise further into the

park area.

ogroddoswiadczen.pl/en.php

Kraków ZooKraków Zoological Garden has

welcomed visitors in the huge forest

area Las Wolski west of the city

centre since 1929. Enjoy the peaceful

greenery in the company of zebras,

elephants, sea lions and rare antelopes

– to name but a few of the almost

300 species you find here. Kids will

especially like the mini zoo and the

chimpanzees.

zoo-krakow.pl/index_en.php

Rogate RanczoA few kilometres outside of Kraków, in

Zabierzów close to the airport, there

is a ranch complete with cowboys

and Indians. The mini zoo with cows,

donkeys, sheep and other animals

can be enjoyed for free, while other

activities are usually subject to a fee.

rogateranczo.eu

Kraków Coke Live FestivalLarge annual outdoor music festival

with various international and Polish

artists. Usually held in August.

livefestival.pl

OFF Plus Camera is an independent film festival

held annually in April. It has

been organised since 2008 with

up to 400 screenings, seminars,

international stars, guests and a jury.

offpluscamera.com

WiankiWianki is one of the biggest Polish

outdoor events relating to ancient

pagan rituals. Recently it changed

character with a new formula that

combines the tradition of midsummer

is entirely dedicated to modern art,

design and architecture. The festival,

that has taken place every year in June

since 2009, turns the city’s public

space into a massive art manifestation

with installations, new media, murals,

paintings and sculptures.

artboomfestival.pl/en

Unsound FestivalUnsound was established in 2003 in

Kraków as a festival for innovative

and experimental music. First an

underground event, the festival has

Festivals

night with world, folk and classical

music. Artists like Jamiroquai (2008)

and Lenny Kravitz (2009), as well

as top representatives of the Polish

music scene have already performed

on the outdoor stage at the foot of

the Wawel Castle. The festivities end

with a huge firework display. It is

no surprise that the festival attracts

crowds from all over the country.

wianki.eu

Art Boom FestivalThe Art Boom Festival of visual arts

Wianki Festival in Kraków. Fireworks show by the Wawel Castle.

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allowed itself to expand in recent

years, to great acclaim.

www.unsound.pl

Sacrum ProfanumSacrum Profanum Festival is

an international project that

has earned the status of one of

the most interesting European

music events. The festival aims to

blur the line between ambitious,

contemporary music and more

accessible entertainment within the

experimental scene.

sacrumprofanum.com/

WOW NightWOW! Night is an unusual ending

to the year – on 31 December, the

main market square in Kraków

transforms into an enormous night

club with a dance floor of an area of

almost 10,000 square metres. On

stage, top DJs from the world of club

and electronic music perform. At

midnight, the new year is greeted in

style with a unique pyrotechnical and

confetti show.

sylwester.krakow.pl

Photography MonthKraków is a picturesque city that also

happens to host one of the major

photography events in Europe –

Kraków Photomonth runs from May

until June each year. .

photomonth.com

Jewish Culture Festival Celebrate Kraków’s Jewish heritage

and history with concerts, exhibitions,

presentations and outdoor events.

This international festival is held in

Kazimierz every summer.

jewishfestival.pl

Jewish Cultural Festival in Kazimierz WOW Night, New Years Eve Celebration.

Kraków OId Town: home to the city many festivities.

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New in Kraków and looking for networking opportunities with other expats or professionals? Here is a short selection of regular networking events in Kraków:

Making SoftwareA reccuring networking event and a

seminar for IT developers and digital

professionals in Kraków. Organized by

Making Waves in collaboration with

its local partners. Check Facebook and

Making Software website for details.

www.makingsoftware.pl

Spaniards in KrakówJoin the fast growing community of

Spanish speaking Kraków residents.

facebook.com/groups/69985602206

Sweds in KrakówA networking group for local Swedes:

facebook.com/groups/364852543611708

Kraków Hiking Meetup GroupThis group is for anyone with a

passion for mountain views, fresh air

and endorphins... and whatever your

heart discovers on the trail.

meetup.com/Krakow-Hiking-Meetup-Group

Kraków Fooding In & OutThis group meets to discover and

create new flavours, be it by meeting

up in restaurants or by hosting

cooking events in their private

kitchens. This group welcomes anyone

for whom food is fun, rather than a

necessity.

meetup.com/Krakow-Fooding

Smartup Meetup Are you interested in the everyday

challenges behind recruiting

software? Are you fascinated by new

technologies, how software can help

in fighting unemployment, handling

scale problems of large systems, how

big data solves big problems, how to

grow your start-up in a smart way,

how to build systems that are loved

by their users and how to optimize

recruiting with software gripping?

Well then, this meetup is for you.

meetup.com/SmartUpMeetup

Domain Driven Design This is a group for people interested

in Domain Driven Design. They want

to promote DDD in Kraków and share

knowledge, ideas and experience. Join

NetworkingDDD to discuss the benefits and trade-

offs that DDD can offer.

meetup.com/DDD-KRK

English clubEnglish language meetup club in

Kraków.

facebook.com/groups/232852183397495

There are plenty of professional networking events in Kraków

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Kraków Culinary Icons

Zapiekanka Do not leave Kraków without trying a

zapiekanka, Poland’s contribution to

fast food culture: a fresh baguette with

cheese and your choice of toppings

- meat, vegetables, tuna, pineapple

or mushrooms, fresh herbs and

mayonnaise or ketchup. The finest in

town are served in the rotunda in the

middle of Plac Nowy in Kazimierz.

Best ice cream in Kraków? Head to Starowiślna Street 83 in

Kazimierz for home-made traditional

ice cream to take away. By far best ice

cream in town – expect long queues

on sunny days. In the winter, they

serve fresh, home-made doughnuts.

Try also the Sicilian gelato served at

Katané on Slakowska, where many

fans line up even when it rains!

Pierogi Polish ‘dumplings’ with various

fillings: meat, cheese & potatoes,

cabbage & mushrooms or fruit. You

find them in almost every restaurant

serving Polish food. We recommend

‘Pod Wawelem’ (by Wawel Castle),

Wierzynek restaurant (by the

main square Rynek), ‘Przystanek

Pierogarnia’ (at Bonerowska Street

14), or Zapiecek restaurant (at

Sławkowska 32).

Kebab Our favourite kebab place in town is

Sami Oriental Food at Wawrzynca

Street 27 in Kazimierz. It is run by

Syrian residents who serve both

Syrian and Lebanese delights.

Pierogi (top picture) and a zapiekanka (bottom picture)

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Culture

Theaters There are many great theatres

in Kraków, of which the Juliusz

Slowacki Theatre is arguably the most

beautiful. Teatr Groteska favours

colour and imagery over spoken

language, so foreigners can also

follow the stage action, while Stary on

Plac Szczepanski is legendary. For a

different experience, check out Teatr

Ludowy in Nowa Huta.

Classical musicThe Kraków Opera, dating back to the

17th century, finally got its own home

in 2008. Although the building itself,

at the Rondo Mogilskie roundabout,

is nothing special, the performances

are world class. If you enjoy a

symphony rather than opera arias,

do not hesitate to visit the Kraków

Philharmonic – the first of its kind in

Poland and quite spectacular.

Galleries The city centre is practically

overflowing with art galleries –

outdoor, indoor, commercial,

independent – you name it. At

Bunkier Sztuki , with its distinct

modernistic façade towards the

Planty, you can spend hours taking

in renowned international and

Polish art exhibitions. For a unique

art experience, head to Pauza

on Florianska, where a cosy bar

doubles as a gallery with interesting

photographs.

Non-classical music venuesKraków has a few large indoor venues

for Polish and international acts not

quite in the super league. Garbage

played at Klub Kwadrat close to Nowa

Huta recently, and Klub Studio next to

AGH has been host for Morrissey and

The National, among others. Forty

Kleparz and Lizard King are other

venues with regular live music of all

genres.

Cinemas – There are a number of big

screen multiplexes, historical cinemas

and film festivals in Kraków. If you

are looking for a cosy, romantic movie

night, we particularly recommend

ARS and Pod Baranami, both located

in the city centre. Most of the large

shopping malls have modern cinemas

with huge screens - try Cinema City in

Galeria Kazimierz, Bonarka or Plaza.

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Gallery: Historic Kraków

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Gallery: New Kraków

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Contact

Think [email protected]

www.thinkkrakow.comul. Adama Asnyka 9

31-144 Kraków, Poland.

PhotographyMichał Steckiw

Radosław Piekarz

David Corral

iStock Photography

Kraków is riding on the crest of a wave...

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