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UNFAMILIAR W A T E R S : SURFING WITH ‘WAVE SHARKS’ // SURFING S U R V I V A L : WINTER IN NORTH DEVON// SEASOUL

SHELTER / // THE LONG-BOARD CLINIC // F E S T I V A L OF SURF . . . E N J O Y !

#28 MARCH 2015 ISSUEAn issue full to the brim of surf-ing inspiration, as we enter our coldest month for ocean related escapades here in the UK. And then, it can only begin to get warmer. But un-til then here’s some Stoke to keep you going.

Editor -Gemma Chalmers.

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South coast - Cornwall in February. Incredible light and incredible colour. Not a soul in the water.

New YearNew challenges

UNFAMILIAR WATERS : SURFING WITH ‘WAVE SHARKS’

Photo: Antonio Russo/Mr.-Yeti www.mr-yeti.com

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I live in a place where the water is cold enough to demand the use of a wetsuit all year round. Except for a few lucky days in summertime, temperatures in the Atlantic Ocean along the west coast of Portugal rarely rise above 19 degrees Celsius. So it’s not uncommon for those of us living there to seek warmer waters for surfing in the winter months so we can shed our wetsuits and enjoy the balmy salt water on our skin.

This year I decided to go to Costa Rica - Santa Teresa, to be exact, on the southern part of the Nicoya Peninsula. The water is warm enough for just a bikini, and January and February are when the smaller swells make the waves more manageable, too.

I’ve only been surfing consistently for five years, and I’m not a natural athlete with a natural athlete’s body. I’ve had to work hard to reach an intermedi-ate level of surfing, and I’m still working every day to improve even my basic skills—the pop-up, bot-tom turn, top turn and cutback, all of which I can do, but not with the finesse, consistency and skill I’m striving for.

I’ve also chosen only to ride longboards - or they’ve chosen me, since I don’t have the will or the paddle strength for shortboards - which also complicates my ability to surf in challenging conditions.

The waves in Santa Teresa aren’t particularly big or scary this time of year, but they are challeng-ing, especially for a first timer to the area. They are often unpredictable, with shifting peaks that seem-ingly come out of nowhere, and very few consistent sets that come at regular intervals. On certain tides they break very steeply, often in very shallow water, walling up suddenly and then breaking into barrel-ing faces. Sometimes the waves appear to be about to break but it takes about 10 more paddles than it normally would to get into the wave.

This time of year there can be a lot of offshore wind, which also makes the waves a bit trickier to catch. There is also a lot of current in the water, which forces you to continuously paddle to stay in position, and check that you haven’t drifted too far out or away from the peak to catch a wave. There is a serious lack of channels - rarely do I ever reach

the line-up with dry hair, and often I’ve had to roll my board under at least five big breakers on my way out.

Santa Teresa is often crowded this time of year, with hordes of surfers from vari-ous regions of the world, and nearly all of them are better surfers than me - or so it seemed the first few times I entered the water. I felt completely intimidated by the level of surfing going on not just from the throngs on holiday, but of course also from the local Costa Rican surfers, who seem to move effortlessly and gleefully through even the dumpiest of sand-filled foam balls.

As I soon learned, the other surfers - often hungry, nimble short boarders with stron-ger paddle power and faster movements than me - were not about to let me sit where I thought a wave would break, and when one came just let me take it.

I would sit patiently and scan the horizon for a wave with a peak close to me, thinking surely it was my turn to take one. But as soon as I started lining up, short boarders

from both directions would start paddling their hardest to make it to the peak as well, as I backed off, too intimidated to claim it for my own.

From what I know about surfing, this tech-nique is considered snaking, and is not ex-actly good surf etiquette. But here it’s the style of surfing many of the best surfers em-ploy, both short boarders and long board-ers alike. Paddling to a peak with someone already close to it or even on it is the rule not the exception here, so you’d better be made of some tough, competitive skin if you’re going to surf these crowded breaks.

To make matters worse, I lacked confidence in the water especially in my first week here, hesitant to even take the waves that were available to me because they looked too steep for me to make on my longboard. What I learned later by watching others, and through my own experience is that while the takeoffs look tricky, they’re actu-ally quite soft, and the waves hold up and wall up cleanly even though they may appear steep to the inexperienced surfer’s eye.

Photos: Antonio Russo/Mr.-Yeti www.mr-yeti.com

I took a patient approach my first few days, sitting back and watching other surfers be-fore attempting to take any waves. This is pretty different to my style at home, where I’m as aggressive and hungry as anyone else. I tried not to be in anyone’s way, and tried to be as friendly as possible to my fellow surfers, smiling if anyone caught my eye. When I finally tried taking a few waves - sometimes with success, sometimes not - I was mindful of my movements so that I could ponder later what went right, and what went wrong.

After a couple of weeks I began to learn the ropes and was consistently catching a few waves every session. Once I caught a wave or two after joining the line-up, the stronger surfers understood that I was out there to surf just like them. Eventually, even the most hardcore of snakes would occasionally let me have a wave if they saw I was close to the peak and paddling for it. Of course, I still have bad days when I fall on my takeoff or misjudge a wave, which pretty much means no one will allow me another one for the entire session. So it goes.

I’ve been in Santa Teresa nearly a month and a half now and even though I still have my ups and downs, the surfing is going a lot better. I’ve made some friends in the water that give me confidence when I meet them in the line-up, and I’ve even managed to get a few waves I’m really proud of, nailing steep take-offs that would have typically left me eating sand.

In the time I’ve been here, I’ve left the water in tears, I’ve left the water with a big smile on my face, and I’ve left the water cursing and wanting to break my board in two. But every time I’ve left the water I can honestly say I’ve learned something, whether it’s a good or bad session.

Surfing in unfamiliar waters, especially for a surfer who still has a lot to learn, can be intimidating. I’ve learned to have patience, not be afraid of making mistakes, and try to practice good etiquette even when others around me aren’t. It’s paid off for me and I know I’m going to return to Portugal in the spring a better, more patient and more con-fident surfer than I was the day I left.

Words: Elizabeth Montalbano.

I can probably count on one hand the number of times I’ve surfed this win-ter, which is pretty outrageous. I’m not quite sure where the last few months have gone! It’s been a less than aver-age winter of surf I’d say, here in the UK. Though, last weekend saw some calm and a small swell, and I found a wave and hardly anyone out. So nice to feel my board under my feet and cruise a couple of nice faces at my lo-cal beach. My arms felt totally pathetic as I paddled for waves and my core strength has pretty much gone to pot, but I know after a few more surfs, I’ll be back in the game. Bring on some Spring time sessions!

Gemma Chalmers, Truro, UK.

BACK IN THE WATER

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SurFING Survival: Winter in North Devon

Current British female longboarding champ Claire Smail shares with us her action plan for getting through the harsh winter season here in the UK.

There are many things that I look forward to about the winter surf season. I love the quiet, relaxed surfs with only a handful of people around you, and the chance to surf a wider variety of surf spots.

However, it gets to this time of year when the evenings start to draw out, that the water feels just that bit colder, and the wind a little bit more persistent. As a way of getting through these last few weeks be-fore the clocks change and spring arrives, I’ve gathered a few ‘top tips’ to keep my water time up.

Don’t hesitate - jump in!I try to always follow the ethos that it is always worth a paddle, even if I only last a short amount of time. All it takes is one turn on a wave, generating a bit more speed than expected or just fitting in a sneaky noise ride and the whole surf can seem worthwhile.

Equipment checkNothing can beat a good winter suit, whether it be like my current 5.4.3mm with 3mm gloves and boots from Alder, or something in the 6mm range with hood, thermal rash vest and mitten gloves. No matter the thick-ness of your suit, on the coldest, windiest day I always find the surf more appealing if I add an extra layer under my suit, even if it is just a merino wool base layer.

Drip dryThere is nothing worse than putting on a soaking wet wetsuit! Unless you have a handy airing cupboard, drip drying can take for ever. So when I need my wetsuit dry for the next day I always try to get rid of the excess water, by laying my towel out on the floor and then my wetsuit out on top of it. If you then roll the two up and apply pressure (walk around on it), the towel will absorb a lot of the water.

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Heat it upSometimes it’s the little things that can make a world of difference and when it comes to winter surfing, for me it is my hot water bot-tle. During the darkest winter months I never leave the house without my hot water bottle filled and wrapped in a towel. Returning from a surf to warm towel and clothes makes getting changed a lot more inviting.

Cosy up in the carNever, ever get to the beach already feeling a bit chilly, as it’s so much harder to last in the surf. I have found if I wear as many layers as possible before a surf, the temperature of the water is never that bad.

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SurFING Survival: Winter in North Devon

Fly awayFinally, if all else fails the biggest incentive there is to get you into the blustery British sea is to book a flight to somewhere sun-nier. It always makes me want to boost my fitness, ready for the warmer waters and balmy climates. Last year I headed to Fuerteventura and this year my ticket is booked for Morocco!

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I cannot deny that the winter season can be cold, dark and challenging but to be outside come sleet or sunshine means I appreciate the clean surf and learn lots on the stormy days.

Words: Claire Smail, North Devon.

The two sea souls, and founders of Seasoul Shel-ter, Killa and Concha met living and surfing on the west coast of Portugal a decade ago. Both shared a deep passion for surfing, traveling and healthy living which set the foundation for a great friend-ship.

Today, many experiences richer, the two are sharing their life philosophy and acquired skills with other sea souls. This was the birth of Seasoul Shelter.

“Seasoul Shelter is not a travel agency, surf camp, or yoga retreat. It is an organisation providing unique ho-listic tailored travel programs around the globe. Con-necting people and surfing are at its core, and there is always more to discover”.

“The travel programs we design, are not only about surfing. They’re about merging the three aspects: mind, body and spirit in a unique way. We deliver the ingredients for an individual experience. For ex-ample a macrobiotic cooking workshop, a variety of yoga styles mixed with raw food, meditation, walking, climbing or horse riding through amazing landscapes. Surfing unspoiled empty beaches, massage treat-ments and other creative projects. The accommoda-tion is always selected carefully to fit the concept of the trip. We like to keep our groups small, 5-8 people max. That is to retain a personal and individual atmo-sphere. Healthy living is the base of every program. We want you to feel nourished and strong when you leave, prepared for new things to come!”

As both have spent many years living abroad in Corn-wall, Portugal, Peru, or just traveling different countries, they truly know their target destinations. Admitting that it’s hard for them to define a home, with Seasoul Shelter they created a place, a virtual shelter, where they and other sea souls are at home, wherever they are.

Realising the health and educational aspects of surf-ing has changed their perspectives on the whole meaning of it. Their ambition now is to help people develop confidence, expand their comfort zones,

tackle fears, head on and achieve their goals in their everyday lives. On top of this, Seasoul Shelter aims to support local surf community projects through new travel programs in less developed places.

The sea souls - Killa is a Graphic Designer and Photographer in her ‘other’ life, and started to work as a surf coach 10 years ago. She feels deeply connected to her Peruvian roots. This led her

to long stays in Peru and South America, living the local lifestyle, and encouraging others in their surfing and arts. Concha has spent many years surfing and coaching in the Algarve in Portugal. She has qualifications in Outdoor Adventure Management, Outdoor Education, and a de-gree in Sports Coaching and Performance.

The next SEASOUL surf session takes place in the small town of Perranporth, on the North Coast of Cornwall. We will be exploring stunning landscape and beaches, and staying in a cottage right on the beach.

Words, Concha and Killa. www.seasoulshelter.com

Porthleven bombie - a beautiful February morning on Cornwall’s south coast.

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A special week designed for intermediate to advanced long-boarders who want to improve their techniques. Plenty of time in the water during the day and video analysis with coach Ale Rista in the evening in the Algarve Surf Hostel, Portu-gal. Only 8 places available to provide you the best coach-ing and the fastest improvement. Check website for more

d e t a i l s : w w w . a l g a r v e s u r f s c h o o l . c o m

SURF:

LONGBOARD CLININC PORTUGAL

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Slideshow Art, Gemma Chalmers, Cornwall, UK.ART:

Approaching Lines International Festival of Surf presented by Reef hits Newquay March 19-22 2015. Bringing to the southwest three nights of the very best surf films from across the globe, from UK premieres and multi-award winning features to hotly anticipated underground hits, this hand picked line up will inspire, enlighten and entertain, while redefining the parameters of possibility.

Hosted at Newquay’s state of the art Lighthouse Cinema, the Approaching Lines In-ternational presented by Reef celebrates filmmaking on a global scale. “We’ve worked with filmmakers from award-winning international directors to homegrown talents to curate a programme of the year’s most exciting movies. The line up combines stun-ning cinematography, cutting edge performance, inspiring documentaries and travel-ogues, taking you on a waveriding journey through a range of perspectives that will stoke the fires for the season ahead,” says Festival Director Chris Nelson. “For many of the films this will be the only chance to see them on the big screen in the south-west, watched as they were intended to be seen, surrounded by an enthusiastic and amped crew.”

Accompanied by inspiring talks and audiences with filmmakers and waveriders of note, as well as a showcase of the most relevant artists, artisans, makers, doers and photographers from the British waveriding scene, Approaching Lines International presented by Reef serves up a saline hit of inspiration to usher in the spring and mark the end of the long dark winter months.

“We’re stoked that this year that festival has grown to also include a one day single fin surf contest spreading hard charging creativity through the line up,” says Chris Nelson. “The emphasis will be on style and generating good vibes, good rides and good times!”

The full line up will be released shortly. For further details head to www.approachinglines.com

Approaching Lines International Festival of

Surf presented by REEF

19 – 22 March 2015, Newquay Cornwall

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“STOKE”

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