the sidecar operator manual 2003.sidecar.com/files/sc op manual.pdfmany have turned to the sidecar...

Hal Kendall - AuthorHal built his first sidecar outfit in 1953 in Mel-

bourne, Australia. He has built and dreivenmany outfits in Australia, the US, and the UK

THE

SIDECAR

OPERATOR

MANUAL

2003.

2

SIDECAR OPERATOR MANUAL

PREFACE

You have just acquired a motorcycle-sidecar combination. Being neither a solo motorcycle nor a mo-torcar, its control is partly dictated by motorcycle operation and partly by the behavior of a two-tracked vehicle. Special skills are required which are taught neither by a solo motorcycle ridercourse nor by an automobile education driver course. These skills and exercises are not difficult tomaster. They have been defined herein by the United Sidecar Association, Inc. (USCA).

Any motorcycle operator can become proficient in sidecaring skills once he realizes the differences atwo-track vehicle requires. Similarly, any automobile or truck operator can develop these skills oncehe becomes familiar with motorcycle controls. In fact, a person without any riding skills can oftenmaster driving a sidecar outfit far more readily than a solo motorcycle or an automobile.

The purpose of this manual is to develop the necessary driving skills required by a sidecarist. Inresearching these materials, the author has utilized reference materials supplied by the NationalHighway Traffic Safety Administration, the Motorcycle Safety Foundation, the American MotorcyclistAssociation, and the Motorcycle Industry Council.

It is hoped this manual will find ready use by motorcycle skill schools, State Departments of MotorVehicles, Departments of Public Safety, and by all new sidecarists everywhere.

Many have turned to the sidecar as a low cost, energy efficient family unit alternate to a small car.When driven within its performance limits, its safety record rivals that of any other form of transpor-tation.

Doug Bingham, Former President, United Sidecar Association, Inc.

H. A. Kendall, Ph. D., Co-Founder, Past President, snd psdt Executive Secretary, USCA, Inc.

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS (1st Edition)The author gratefully acknowledges the encouragement of the membership of the United SidecarAssociation, Inc., and the support of the Executive Committee. This manual is the outgrowth of theirneeds.

The author acknowledges Dr. James McKnight, President of the National Public Safety Services Re-search Institute, Gary Winn of the American Motorcyclist Association, and, Dr. Elizabeth Weaver ofthe Motorcycle Safety Foundation, who reviewed the draft manuscript. Their constructive suggestionsenhanced the utility of the manual. Lewis Buchanan of the National Highway Transportation SafetyAdministration provided additional guidance.

Credit is due to Dale McCormack and Tim Colburn of the Motorcycle Safety Program, NortheasternIllinois University, and to Dorde Woodruff, USCA Editor, for reviewing the manuscript and advisingsuggestions in the material content. Al Johnson supplied most of the photographs while Joe Ruth-erford created the artwork.

Also, to Lee Kendall, the patient wife, full credit for preparing the numerous drafts, and to MarthaBarnes for preparing and revising the final copy several times.

The United Sidecar Association, Inc., is a non-profit organization, created to serve sidecarists inAmerica.

The Association is supported by sidecarists, sidecar manufacturers, and by friends of sidecarists. Itserves sidecarists as the AMA, the MSF, and the MIC serve the motorcyclist-at-large.

UpdateThis manual has been updated at the request of persons new to sidecarring. It inludes appropriatesegments from Kendall’s other writings, and also the 2nd and 4th edition of the BVDM’s “Riding witha Sidecar”

Hal Kendall

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CONTENTSPREFACE

CONTRIBUTIONS

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

1. PREPARING TO RIDE

Personal Protective Equipment -- Helmet -- Eyeand Face Protection -- Outerwear

INSPECTION OF THE SIDECAR OUTFIT

Tires -- Wheels and Bearings -- Front End --Sidecar Fittings and Installation -- Springing --Controls -- Brakes -- Clutch, Throttle, andTransmission -- Lights -- Headlight Flasher --Signals -- Brake Light -- Horn -- Chain --Chain Breakage -- Mirrors -- Fuel and Oil --Fa-miliarization

CONTROL POSITION FOR SAFETY

Body Positioning -- Hands -- Feet -- Knees -- Pos-ture -- Turning -- Turning Toward The Sidecar --Turning Away From The Sidecar -- Braking --Quick Stops -- Avoiding Obstacles -- ChangingGears -- Shifting In A Turn -- Starting On A hill

BEING PERCEIVED

Headlight -- Conspicuity (Visibleness) -- PositionIn Traffic

LOOK FOR TROUBLE SITUATIONS

Head Checks -- Using Your Mirrors -- Positioning

KEEPING YOUR CUSHION

Following Distance -- Distance To The Side --Intersections -- Parked Cars -- Sharing Lanes --Merging Cars -- Cars Alongside -- Distance Be-hind

HANDLING UNUSUAL SURFACES

Uneven Surfaces -- Riding Over Objects --Grooves and Gratings -- Sloping Surfaces

NIGHT RIDING

EMERGENCIES

Avoiding Obstacles -- Minor Emergencies -- Fly-ing Objects -- Animals

MECHANICAL FAILURES

Blowouts -- Stuck Throttle -- Wobble

Engine Seizure -- Getting Off The Pavement

CARRYING PASSENGERS/CARGO & BALLAST

TRAILERS

GROUP RIDING

OPERATOR PHYSICAL/MENTAL CONDITION

MOTORCYCLE/SIDECAR OUTFIT

The Necessary Equipment -- Sidecar Care

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SIDECAR OPERATOR SKILL TEST

Starting On A Hill

Sharp Turn, Turning, And Stopping

Turning Speed Judgment

Quick Stop - Straight

Quick Turn

Quick Stop - Curve

Stopping The Test

U S SIDECAR MANUFACTURERS/DISTRIBU-TORS

ABOUT THE USCA

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

ABOUT THE AUTHORThe sidecar operator manual was compiled andedited by Hal Kendall, Ph.D., of Houston, Texas.

Kendall is the co-founder and executive secretaryof the United Sidecar Association, Inc. He is alsothe founder of the International Laverda Owner'sClub, and the co-founder, executive secretary,and president pro-tem of the Association Of Jens-en Owners.

Hal's association with sidecars spans a half acentury. He is a dedicated champion of issuesrelated to motorcycle safety, of bikers rights,and on equality on the nation's tollways forsidecarists. His numerous articles and manualson sidecaring have been published in England,Australia, and the United States.

Professionally, Hal is currently responsible fortraining drilling personnel of a major internation-al drilling contractor. His prior activities includeworking variously for several major internationalintrgrated oil companies as a senior researchdrilling technologist, associate drilling engineer,chief drilling engineer, country operations man-ager, and chief logistics engineer.

Academically, Hal began with a Bachelor of CivilEngineering w/ Honours from the University ofWestern Australia, a M.Sc and Ph.D from theTexas A&M University, and a M.Lit. in NaturalScience from the University of Pittsburgh, PA.

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SIDECAR OPERATOR MANUAL 1. PREPARING TO RIDE

1. PREPARING TO RIDEThe sidecar operator is nearly as vulnerable toinjury as is the solo motorcycle rider. For theirwell being both should dress appropriately andcheck the mechanical condition of the vehiclecarefully.

Personal Protective EquipmentHelmetThe University of Southern California motorcycleaccident study showed that helmets afford motor-cycle riders and passengers a high degree of pro-tection from head and neck injuries at all levelsof severity.

Helmeted motorcyclists are much less likely thanunhelmeted ones to suffer head injuries at all.Injuries which do occur are less severe, and lesslikely to be fatal.

Helmets provide a high degree of safety at thespeeds at which motorcycle accidents typicallyoccur. However, a helmet may not offer sufficientprotection under certain accident conditions,such as when a solid object is impacted at a rightangle rather than tangentially.

Also, injuries to other parts of the body such asthe chest can be severe or fatal. Prevention ofaccidents remains a most important goal. Provendriving skills, a developed "road sense", and con-spicuity (visibleness) are significant factors inreducing your chances of an accident occuring.

Sidecars are under-represented in motorcycleaccident occurrences and data. The author's ex-perience is that the sidecarlst is less likely to partcompany from his vehicle than the solo motorcy-clist, who typically flies over the handlebars andmay hit an oncoming vehicle with his head. Whenforced to separate from his machine, the authorhas always rolled and remained uninjured.

However, there is no guarantee that a sidecaristwill not hit his head during an accident. A well-fitting DOT-approved helmet should be worn atall times. Reflectorlzation is sometimes a legalrequirement and adds to consplculty of the wear-er. For the same reason, white or light or brightcolors are best. Helmets should be used in con-junction with eye protection. A helmet with adamaged shell should be replaced. Those whichhave been impacted while being worn should beinspected by the manufacturer for hidden dam-age to the energy-absorbing liner. If the shell isintact, it may be possible for a helmet to be re-paired; at least one manufacturer (Bell) has acomplete service. Older helmets though notdamaged or deteriorated may not provide thedegree of protection offered by newer designs.

Helmets should be well fitted and obtained fromapproved helmet manufacturers only. Be ware ofcheap helmets which may not protect you whenneeded. A Y strap has superior holding to a sin-gle point. A full face offers more protection thana 3/4 face which is superior to a 1/2 cap.

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Eye and Face ProtectlonThe sidecar operator is exposed to weather, high-way debris, insects, and dirt. Unlike the hel-met, which offers protection only to its wearer,eye protection also protects the public-at-large.

Should the operator become temporarily blinded,all road users in the vicinity could become atrisk. Even when no foreign body enters the eyes,the continuous drying action of the wind canseriously impair vision by creating dehydrationand chemical imbalance. In many States, eyeprotection is a legal requirement; where not re-quired by law it is good sense to use it.

Eye and facial protection comes in many formsincluding: windshield, goggles, a face shield,and safety prescription spectacles. Wlth a properhelmet the probability of spectacles flying off issurely reduced.

If goggles are used, the elastic strap should go onthe inside of the helmet if comfortable. Eye pro-tection should be free of scratches; be construct-ed of shatterproof material; offer unobstructedsideview; be securely fastened; allow proper ven-tilation to prevent fogglng; and, allow room forgoggles or glasses. Tinted lenses, goggles, orshields are useful, but are for daytime use only.

OuterwearProtective clothing should be worn at all times.The type of clothing used depends on the type of

riding anticipated. It should be comfortable anddesigned for the conditions expected.

Protective clothing can include nylon, denim, orleather jackets and riding pants, and boots andgloves. Kidney belts may reduce fatigue duringlong distance touring.

All clothing should be designed to fit snugly butwithout restricting movement. The best visibility isafforded when bright colors are selected. Lime-yellow is the most conspicious. Special attentionshould be given to protection of feet and handswhich can become numb if not properly protected.Heavy leather products and strong synthetic mate-rials can provide adequate protection. Boots aredefinitely recommended for safe sidecar operation.

The sidecar operator can have much more protec-tion from the elements than can a solo operator.Frame mounted full fairings can provide consider-able protection from the elements for the entirebody. In addition, as the sidecar operator becomesmore a part of his machine than does the solo oper-ator, he can use protective riding chaps fitted to hismachine that cover his entire body, including hisfeet, leaving only the upper shoulders and armsexposed. These chaps are not as useful for thesoloist as he must remove his feet for b~lance everytime he stops. The operator, once astride, pulls thechaps around himself for nearly complete protectionfrom the elements yet without any reduction in hiscontrol of his machine.

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Helmet Fit - Courtesy of Bell HelmetsSix Key Steps In Determining Proper Helmet Fit.Measurement -- Try-on -- Horizontal and Vertical

Movement Check -- Retention Check --Pressure Point Check -- Confirming Proper Fit

1. MeasurementMeasuring the head is a starting point for theentire sizing procedure. Due to varying shapes,heads that are apparently the same size whenmeasured by a tape may not necessarily fitthe same size helmet.

A small metal tape measure, or a cloth tape maybe used to make your initial measurement. Thecircumference of the head should be measured ata point approximately one inch above the eye-brows in front, and at a point in the back of thehead that results in the largest possible measure-ment. Take several measurements, to make sureyou have the largest one.Size Cross ReferenceAdult sizing

X-Small: 6-3/4” Small: 7”; Medium: 7-1/4”

Large: 7-1/2” X-Large: 7-3/4”

Children Sizing

Small: 50cm; Medium: 52cm:

Large: 54cm X-Large: 56cm

2. Try-OnOnce you’ve determined your preliminary tapemeasurement, select the helmet that is closest inhat size to the tape measurement. If it is betweensizes, round-up to the next largest size. Now tryon your helmet.

If you are not familiar with helmets, you shoulduse these instructions on the proper procedurefor putting one on:

A. Grasp the helmet by the chin straps, with thefront of the helmet facing you and the top of thehelmet facing down.

B. Place your thumbs on the inside surface of thestraps and balance the helmet with your indexfingers.

C. Spread the helmet apart with your hands, andslip it down over your head.

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Helmets of differentshapes go on differently.Sometimes, the front ofthe helmet must go onfirst; other times, therear.

If the helmet flops downon your head with noresistance, you haveyour first indication thatit may be too large.

Obviously, if it won’t slide down over your head atall, it is too small.

Many people unfamiliar with helmets are reluc-tant to pull down if they meet resistance as thehelmet goes on. To tell if it is really too small, orjust snug going on you should continue the effortto get the helmet on. Only if the helmet is impos-sible to put on should you move up to the nextsize, as helmets that go on snug generally fit verywell once on all the way.

Remember, most people will select a helmet thatis too large for them. They will regret it later,because ill-fitting helmets are more likely to benoisy, windy and fatiguing to wear.

We have noted that some people have a tendency towear a helmet perched on the backs of their heads,like hats. Be sure that the helmet is sitting squarelyon your head. Use the location of the eyes in theeyeport of a full face model as a gauge.

The eyes should be approximately in the center,with the top edge of the liner padding just abovethe eyebrows.

3. Checking Horizontal and Vertical Movement Now that you are wearing the helmet, use a mir-ror to look carefully at the way it fits. Check tosee if the cheek pads are in contact with thecheeks. Is there excess pressure on the cheeks?

Look for gaps between the temples and the browpad.

Check the back of the helmet where the neck roll(if the helmet has one) makes contact with theneck. Does it touch at all? Or is it pushing thehelmet away at the rear, causing it to roll downover the eyes in front?

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After you have made your visual check, grab theelmet in your hands - one on either side - and tryto rotate the helmet from side-to-side. Note anymovement of the skin while doing this, as well asthe amount of resistance to movement. Hold yourhead steady to do this.

Next check movement up and down, again notingskin movement and resistance. If in either testthere was little or no skin movement, and/or thehelmet moved very easily, the helmet is too large.

It is important to note here that you should thinkabout the comfort of the helmet during the fittingprocess - with respect to comfort, pressurepoints, or anything else that will help you makethe right sizing choice.

A properly fitted helmet will cause the skin tomove as the helmet moves. And, it will feel to thewearer as if evenly distributed pressure is beingcontinuously exerted around the head.

NOTE: Helmets are a little like shoes, in that theydo break in a little. For this reason, the best atti-tude to have when fitting is that the helmetshould be as tight fitting as you can stand towear it - taking into consideration the length oftime it will be worn.

For Example: A drag racer’s helmet can be verytight, because it will only be worn for a few min-utes at a time. On the other hand, a police officer,who wears a helmet for hours at a time is moreconcerned with comfort.

4. Retention CheckNow fasten the chin strap, so you can check it.After the strap has been tightly fastened, holdyour head steady, and note that this test may bea little uncomfortable, but that it is very impor-tant. Reach over the top of the helmet, grabbingthe bottom edge with your fingers. Then try to rollthe helmet off your head. If it comes off, it is un-doubtedly too large.

NOTE: Do not use a helmet that can be rolled offthe head with the strap fastened! Try not to causesevere pain, but do give a good, strong pull on thehelmet. THIS TEST IS VERY IMPORTANT.

5. Pressure Point CheckFinally, unfasten the chin strap and remove thehelmet. Immediately after the helmet has beenremoved, use a mirror to observe the coloration ofthe skin on the forehead and cheeks.

A reddening of the skin in a small area may indi-cate a pressure point. Pressure points sometimesare not noticed by the wearer until after severalminutes, or even hours of wear. They sometimescause headaches and are, at the least, uncom-fortable. If you notice a pressure point, note ifyou experienced discomfort in that area whilewearing the helmet. If you can’t remember, putthe helmet back on for a few minutes, payingparticular attention to the anticipated pressurepoint(s). If the pressure point discomfort contin-

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ues, go to the next largest size, repeating stepsthree, four and five.

6. Confirming Proper FitOne way to confirm your evaluation of proper fitis to try on helmets that are one size larger andone size smaller than the one you think is right.Keep in mind that people gravitate towards largersizes.

Another way, is to wear the helmet around thestore for a few minutes. This will allow any pres-sure points to show up.

WARNING: No helmet can protect the user fromall foreseeable impacts. For maximum protection,a helmet must fit securely and should provideadequate peripheral vision. The chin strap mustbe securely fastened.

Questions or Comments? Email Bell at:[email protected]

Bell Full Face M-5,Blue Multi

Bell Open Full FaceTourlite Silver

Bell ShortyFlames

Check with yourhelmet dealer reoptions, specifi-cations, andaccessories.

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Proper Riding Attire - Model lost her gloves!

Ideal Rear Tire Profile for a SC Rig

Ideal Trail for Solo and a SC Rib

Lean-out should be 1 to 2 degrees, unladen

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SIDECAR OPERATOR MANUAL 2. INSPECTION OF THE SIDECAR OUTFIT

INSPECTION OF THESIDECAR OUTFITA sidecar outfit requires all the checks of a solomachine plus a few unique to an outfit. Yourchances of enjoying the ride are greater when allcomponents are in good working order. Here aresome of the more important checks.

TiresAli tlres, front, rear, and sldecar, should bechecked for correct inflation pressure (see ownersmanual for recommendations). Since the addedsidecar weight affects all wheels, slightly higherpressures (within manufacturer's limlts) shouldbe used. Under-inflation can cause serious side-wall deterioration and increase the risk of tearingthe tube valve loose during severe acceleration(rear), or during severe braking (front or rear).

Tires for sidecar operation must have strong yetflexible sidewalls to keep as much tread in con-tact with the road surface, even when they aresubject to heavy cornering forces. In this respect,tires developed for solo use, with a rigid sidewalland a rounded or “V” tread profile, are unsuitablefor sidecar operation. Tread profile should be asflat as possible.

Radial tires are just as desirable for a sidecaroutfit as they are for auto use. Radials, if fitted,should NOT be used if the sidecar is removed.

Check sidewalls and tread for cracks, cuts, blem-ishes, and foreign objects. A blowout of any one ofthe three tires is less likely to result in loss ofvehicle control except under the most adverseconditions.

Because of its asymetrical design, the sidecaroutfit has been fitted with all shapes and sizes oftires. The only reason to have a set of identicalwheels and tires is if you have an outfit set upwith quickly detachable, QD, wheels that couldbe mounted at any corner and you also carry aspare. Otherwise, select each tire for its specificpurpose at each corner.

Nonetheless, it is false economy and dangerous tooperate a machine with weak or balding tires, orwith air-rotted sidewalls. Tires can and haveblown out. Patched tires can be very unreliable.

Wheels and BearingsSome motorcycle wheels of light pressed steel orthin spoke construction may not endure the highcornering loads imposed by sidecar operationwithout considerable flexing, or breaking ofspokes. In this case they should be replaced orrespoked. Heavy-duty spokes prevent breakagefrom reoccuring. Inspect spoke tightness fre-quently.

Each should be of uniform tightness. The wheelshould be both true and balanced. Wheel bear-ings are usually designed to handle vertical loads,

14


but not side loads. The addition of a sidecar cre-ates large side-loading forces when turning.

Attention should be given to lubricating wheelbearings more often than required for solo opera-tion. If posslble, adjustable tapered or pre-loadedtapered bearings should be used in place of con-ventional wheel bearings.

Front EndSome sidecar outfits may exhibit a tendency toshake the handlebar or wobble at low speeds,especially when decelerating. Often the causecan be traced to out-of-round or out-of-balancetires or wheels, worn bearings in the axle, steer-ing head, or rear swinging arm; or worn swingarm bearings. Or it could be due to mount flexingbetween the sidecar and the motorcycle or play inthe connections themselves. The cause should belocated and remedied, if possible. Low speedwobble, if it persists, can often be reduced oreliminated by adding a friction or hydraulic steer-ing damper.

A word of caution. All dampers have a stictionfactor. The stiction froce must be overcome be-fore any steering effort is turned into turning thehandlebars. The stiction force can be easily ad-justed for a friction damper but not for a hydrau-lic damper. A high stiction force means that thesteering will become somewhat wooden. You putforce to turn and nothing happens. You are re-

sisted by the stiction force. So you must putmore force into the turn. Then, when you want tostraighten out you relax the bars and nothinghappens. Again, the stiction force. Instead of theself-centering force strightening the rig out youmust turn the bars back to straight coming out ofthe turn. Again, the stiction force. If too greatwith a friction damper, just back off on theamount of friction. Just be sure that if you feelyou must use a damper you do not have toostrong a damper.

Heavy cornering effort often results when a slde-car is added because of the large trail employedby contemporary motorcycles. Reduction of trailto about 2 inches will result in much easier han-dling. Trail can be reduced in several ways.

Haley-Davidson offers an adjustable trail. Inothers the triple tree can be modified. One of thebest set-ups for sidecar operation is a leadinglink system which increases the lateral stabilityof the forks. Triple tree modification should onlybe done by an expert.

Adding a forkbrace is another way to reduce thetendency for a sidecar rig to wobble. Also, fittinglarger diameter sliders will increase the lateralrigidity and reduce the tendency to wobble. En-sure that the forkbrace is fitted correctly or elsethis can cause the forks to stick/

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Sidecar Fittings and InstallationCare must be given to fitting the sidecar to themachine. All mountings must be made to theprimary motorcycle frame. Rigid connections arepreferred because flexing at any mounting pointcan result in steering wobbles or other handlingproblems.

It is extremely important that the outfit be prop-erly aligned. An ill prepared machine can be verytiresome to operate.

When the machine is properly set up it shouldenable the operator to drive 30 mph on a flatsurface without the machine pulling in eitherdirection.

To achieve this, the sidecar wheel should be toed-in about 0.25 to 0.75 inches, the motorcycleshould also lean outward 1 to 2 degrees and thesidecar wheel should lead the rear wheel by 6 toI0 inches. Exact specifications dependent onwhich sidecar unit is fitted onto your motorcycle.

Leaning the bike outwards slightly causes the biketo want to turn naturally to the left which partiallyoffsets the drag of the sidecar to the right. It alsolifts the center of gravity slightly by making theweight on the sidecar wheel a little lighter.

Toeing the sidecar wheel in slightly also tends tocause the rig to turn just a little to the left whichfurther aids the tendency of the sidecar drag to theright.

Moving the sidecar wheel forwards tends to makethe bike less susceptable to tipping over the ti-pover line between the front wheel and the side-car wheel. However, it also requires more steer-ing effort as the sidecar wheel now drags. Ifmoved too far foreward the sidecar wheel maypivot or turn backwards when turening sharply tothe right.

It is interesting as the original sidecars were set-up with zero leanout, zero sidecar wheel lead,and zero toein. The current settings are based ondriving practice as rigs became heavier, morepowerful, and faster.

Sidecar weight should also be matched to themachine. The sidecar will be lifted very easily onsharp turns toward the sidecar if it's too light. Iftoo heavy, overall performance will suffer consid-erably; also the effect of the sidecar, to lag behindon acceleration and to swing around on hardbraking, will be accentuated. Typically, a sidecarthat weighs about 30 percent of the weight of thebike seems to be about right. If too light, addingsome weight, ballast, to the sidecar, car battery,weight, fuel tank, water tank, will aid greatly tothe stability of the outfit.

SpringingA motorcycle-sidecar outfit is designed to carryfar more load than a solo machine. Light spring-ing and weak damping will cause considerable

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roll, especially on cornering. Best results will beobtained by using firm yet not harsh suspensionon all three wheels. If suspension is too soft,the outfit will roll to the direction opposite theturn just as with any two-track vehicle, unless astabilizer is fitted.

The passenger can have a very comfortable car-llke ride in the sidecar if the body is sprung inde-pendently from the frame, especially if the degreeof movement is also damped. This can often bedone as an aftermarket modification

ControlsBrakesBraking systems vary considerably from outfit tooutfit. Some have an integrated front and rearbraking system. Others have an integrated rearwheel and sidecar wheel braking system. Somesidecar wheels have no braking system.

Others have a sidecar wheel that can be indepen-dently braked either by a separate foot pedal orfrom a separate handlebar control.

Regardless, the primary braking system contin-ues to be that of the motorcycle itself. If a sidecarbrake is used that is integrated with the rearwheel, it should be adjusted to become effectiveslightly after the rear brake has begun to act.

Hydraulic brakes allow for the force to be split,65 percent for the rear wheel, 35 percent for the

sidecar wheel. ABS systyems are coming down inprice and may soon be found on sidecar rigs.

Brakes should always be tested thoroughly beforeeach journey. Not only should they stop the vehi-cle well, but also linings or pads should be ingood condition. When checking the brakes, testthe rig with the sidecar empty, the sidecar load-ed, and with a rear passenger. You would be verysurprised that the difference it makes on brakingjust where the load is placed.

Drums and caliper discs should always be kept ingood condition. Periodic checks should be madeto the level and condition of the hydraulic fluid,the hydraulic lines and fittings, and to any me-chanical linkages or cables.

Your llfe depends on brakes that will operatewhenever you apply them. Brakes should worksmoothly and effectively in both dry and wetweather.

Clutch, Throttle, and TransmissionThe clutch, throttle, and transmission controlsenable the operator to achieve desired speeds.Because of the additional weight of the sidecar,the operator will find these controls are usedmore often than during solo operation. The cor-rect gear must be used so that the engine is nev-er overly stressed. It must be neither over-revvednor lugged. The clutch lever and controls whether

17


cable operated or hydraulically activated, must besmooth in operation without sticking or binding.

Likewise the throttle must be smooth in operationInner cables should be checked for brokenstrands, and casings for breaks or damage. Manyexperienced riders tape a spare cable onto theoperating cable; this provides a ready replace-ment should the cable break. If the throttle cableshould break, the engine should be turned offand the machine brought to a stop. Makeshiftoperation with a broken throttle cable or clutchcable is unsafe.

LightsLighting enables an operator to see where he isgoing at night and allows others to see the vehi-cle. Because you have a wlde, visible vehicle,daytime conspicuity is enhanced over that of asolo machine. However, due to low sidecar height,it may be obscured by that of traffic behind it.

Some additional lighting for nightime operation isdesirable, such as running lights on the front andrear to delineate sidecar width. Other lights may beuseful, such as an amber turn signal light on boththe right front and right rear of the sidecar. Theturn signal lights on the motorcycle between themotorcycle and the sidecar should be renderedinoperative. An additional stop light on the sidecaris also recommended. When the sldecar is fitted thesidecar stoplight should be connected to the rear

stop light of the motorcycle, and both lights activat-ed when either front or rear brake is used.

It is extremely important that the electrical systemfunction reliably and effectively. This includes thebattery and the charging system. If voltage is al-lowed to become excessive all light bulbs will pre-maturely burn out and the battery will fail. If charg-ing voltage is insufficient the battery will discharge.Some older motorcycles and a few in current pro-duction, have balanced charging systems not de-signed for continuous headlight use. The daytimeheadlight use requirement in some States does notconsider this problem.

It may be necessary to recharge the battery exter-nally, or to alter your driving habits by driving inlower gears to maintain sufficient engine speed tokeep the battery charged.

Care must be taken when fitting an additionalheadlight to determine that it does not overload theelectrical system. If a headlight on the sidecar isrequired by State law and your charging system ismarginal, lower wattage headlights may be used. Anadditional driving light on the sidecar is desirable ifthe electrical system has a high power output.

Check that all lights installed comply with vehic-ular codes, are approved, and are operational.

Headlight FlasherSome motorcycles are fitted with a flasher thatoperates the high beam of the headlight when the

18


flasher control is depressed. This feature can beused to warn other road users of your presence.It may be flashed rapidly, or held on, dependingupon circumstances. However, the headlightshould not be flashed indiscriminately. Its abilityto attract attention is more effective in Stateswithout mandatory daytime headlight laws thanin States which require continued headlight oper-ation; the effect of the flashed high beam ismasked when the low beam is already on.

The operator should never rely solely upon con-tinuous or flashing light for protection. In thosestates that now require daytime headlight opera-tion, intersection accidents still continue at aboutthe same rate as previously.

SignalsAll road users are expected to communicate in-tended directional changes by visual signals be-fore either changing lanes or turning, llluminat-ed turn-signal indicators are usually more effec-tive than hand signals, providing added conspicu-ity. They should be used even if the intendedaction is obvious, such as when entering or leav-ing a freeway system, or when turning right orleft into a T-junctlon. Since few motorcycle turn-signal indicators are self-cancelllng, it is equallyimportant to remember to cancel them manually,after executing the intended maneuver.

Most motorcycles are equipped with turn-signalequipment on both sides of the machine, facingforward and rearward. Using the turn-signalindicators on the side between the motorcycleand the sidecar can be quite confusing to otherroad users, and they should be disconnected. Thesidecar turn signal indicators should be on theoutermost side.

Note: Some states, Nevada for example, requirethat you keep both hands on the handlebar at alltimes.

Brake LightThe brake lights on a motorcycle-sldecar outfitcan be made just as conspicious as brake lightson a car.

Given the full width of the sidecar body, one ormore stop lights can be fitted so that their mean-ing is quite unmlstakeable. Even so, it is goodform to tap (or "blink") your brake if intending toslow down; if you see congestion ahead; if a tail-gater insists on crowding you; or, if you plan toslow down or turn at a place at which others maynot expect you to do so.

HornThe horn should be used to direct other roadusers to your presence. Whereas a light is effec-tive only when another road user has eye contactwith the light, an audible signal is omni-direc-

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tional. However, as most other road users arewithin a steel and glass enclosure with other,distracting sounds, such as radio, air condition-ing, or heating system, the net effectiveness ofmotorcycle horns is reduced. The horn shouldemit a very strong noise. Air horns are very effec-tive in this regard. Whatever horn is fitted, itmust be functional at all times - and used when-ever it is necessary for your protectlon. However,do not rely on making someone actually seeingyou and moving out of your way.

ChainThe added weight of a sidecar demands morefrom primary and final drive chains than doessolo bike operation.

To obtain full life, chains must be given carefulattention. They must be kept well lubricated.Tension must be adjusted so that it is neither tootight nor too loose. The latter will cause thechain to become excessively hot and stretch. Thelengthening of the chain may cause it to come offthe sprocket. Sprockets must be aligned so thatthe chain is not twisted. Any misalignment willcause the chain life to lessen much more than ifused strictly as a solo bile.

Consult your owner's manual for correct chaininspection and adjustment procedures.

Chain BreakageIf the primary or the final drive chain breaks youhave lost your connection between the engine andthe rear wheel. Pulling in the clutch lever imme-diately may prevent or reduce further damage. Insome cases a loose chain may have jumped therear sprocket, causing the rear wheel to stopturning. Turn off the englne, and brake to a stopas soon as it is prudent to do so.

Chain breakage or Jumping the sprocket is gen-erally caused by inattention to the condition ofthe chain or sprocket.

The chain will stretch quickly if not maintainedproperly. Continued use of a worn or stretchedchain will rapidly wear down one or both sprock-ets. Likewise use of a worn sprocket will rapidlywear out a chain.

MirrorsMirrors should be clean and correctly adjusted toprovide a clear view of the road behind at alltimes. Each mirror should allow visibility of theadjacent lane, in addition to as much rearwardvision as possible. Do not adjust mlrrors while inmotion. Some mirrors vibrate excessively. Youmay need a different mirror setup, or it might bethat there is sn engine problem that is causingthe vibration and is in need of attention.

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Fuel and OilCheck fuel and oil levels before starting out. Besure the fuel petcock is on the normal setting.When the main supply is nearly consumed, theengine will gradually lose power. Switch the pet-cock to the reserve position before the enginedies, to avoid draining the carburetor and, there-fore, possible restarting problems.

Most motorcycles have only a small reserve fuelcapacity, so fill the tank promptly. To minimizecondensation water collecting in the fuel tank, itis always good practice to keep the tank full over-night, or when the machine is not being used.

Always be sure your oil level is correct and the oilis clean. Your engine will work harder with thesidecar attached, so more frequent oil changesare recommended.

Many sldecarists often add an oil cooler to keepthe oil temperature to a more normal workingrange. If the oil level becomes too low or is lost, orif the oil pump fails, the engine will overheat andpossibly seize, although generally you will experi-ence considerable loss of power beforehand. If theengine appears to want to seize, pull in the clutchand stop. The effects of engine seizure will stopthe functions of the entire drive-chain and causethe rear wheel to skid.

FamiliarizationAll controls, whether foot or hand operated,should be easily located by the operator, withoutdiverting attention from the road ahead. Thls isespecially true when operating an unfamiliaroutfit. Each motorcycle control acts and respondsdifferently. In addition to normal motorcycle con-trols - - brakes, throttle, clutch, gear change,headlight switch, engine cutoff switch, fuel valve,lighting switches, and horn - - the behavior ofeach rig while riding will likely be different.

Drive slowly and cautiously until you become veryfamiliar with the operation of any motorcycle-sidecar outfit.

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SIDECAR OPERATOR MANUAL 3. CONTROL POSITION FOR SAFETY

CONTROL POSITION FORSAFETYA motorcycle-sldecar outfit is exceptionally stableand will not fall over like a solo machine. Even so,some basic driving tips are necessary to keep theoutfit under control.

Body PositioningAs with any vehicle, the operator's position isimportant in reducing or preventing fatigue.The operator should be able to reach both han-dlebars comfortably. More handlebar movementis necessary than when making an identical turnon a solo machine.

Although body lean will not cause the outfit toalter direction, by shifting your weight into thedirection of the turn, better control off the outfitis produced. It should not be necessary for thepassenger to move around. That is only for pro-fessionals in racing outfits. Also, it is not neces-sary for the driver to move drastically. The actualweight transferrence is slight. It helps a little nota lot. Never get so involved in sliding around onyour saddle that you loose control or make driv-ing tiring. Try to keep your body low as this alsolowers your center of gravity, C0G.

HandsThe handlebars should be gripped firmly but nottightly. Be prepared to resist any slow-speedwobble if it occurs. Do not allow the handlebarsto oscillate.

If wobble becomes a problem, a steering dampershould be fitted. Hands should be positioned ator near the appropriate controls ready to takewhatever action may be necessary.

FeetUnlike in riding solo motorcycles, there is neverany need to place either foot on the ground whenin motion. In fact, to do so, especially with thefoot located between the motorcycle and the slde-car, is to risk severe injury.

KneesDuring normal ridlng, the operator's kneesshould be against the gas tank. This will allow themotorcycle to pitch over rough roads while retain-ing control. On sharp cornering, however, morebody movement can be used by pressing the kneeopposite the turn against the tank and relaxingpressure on the other knee.

You do not merely sit passively on the motorcycle.Instead all limbs should be brought into action asneeded for complete vehicle control. Above all,remember that you are driving on the street and

22


not on a race course. Consequently, the anticsseen by both the driver and the monkey on a racetrack are neither necessary nor welcomed by thepublic at large or peace officers. This does notmean that it is not a good idea to properly under-stand the peculiar mechanics associated withsidecars and to practice them, if desired, on anoffroad location such as a school parking lot onan off-school weekend. More on this later.

PostureA fairly erect posture will usually be the leasttiring. A sustained amount of weight should notrest upon your hands while riding. The crouchedposition often seen for solo city driving just doesnot cut it for long distance touring.

TurningDirectional control on a motorcycle-sidecar outfitcan only be accomplished by turning the frontwheel. In this respect it behaves like any two-track vehicles and totally unlike a solo machine.However, a different technique must be usedwhen turning right at speed than is employedwhen turning to the left. This makes sidecar op-eration unique among all other vehicles. Theseskills are important to learn, and quickly.

Because the sidecar' s mounting position affectshandling, instead of describing right and left-handturning operations, we will consider turning into or

away from the sidecar. Turning at slow speeds isvery easy. Simply turn the handlebars in the direc-tion desired. Balance and stability problems do notexist as they do for solo operation.

While most sidecars in the United States aremounted on the right, this is not universally so. Afew are fitted on the left. Driving a left-handedoutfit on the right side of the road is neither awk-ward nor hazardous. However, it does requiremore distance be allowed when overtaking toensure that the road ahead is clear. Also, theoperator will be riding adjacent to the roadside,where the road surface is frequently in poor re-pair. Your survival depends on having an outfitthat can negotiate turns without difficulty.

Turning Toward The Sidecar(Right-Hand Mounted Sidecar)

A turn at speed toward the sidecar can cause thesidecar wheel to lift especially if the sidecar isempty or lightly loaded. This behavior occursbecause the center of gravity of the outfit liesclose to the motorcycle itself. Whenever any vehi-cle turns a force is generated opposite the direc-tion of the turn. To compensate for this force on asolo motorcycle, you lean into the turn. In actualfact, to change the direction of a solo quickly onewould deliberately turn the handlebars in thedirection opposite to where you wanted to go. Aforce would then be generated in the opposite

23


direction and push the solo over so that it is nowleaning in the direction you want to go. This iscalled countersteering and it is popularly taughtin modern motorcycle training programs. Ofcourse, you could have simply leaned the bikeover in the direction you want to go, but thattakes a little longer before the turn takes effect.

A conventional motorcycle-sidecar outfit, MCSCO,cannot lean. So countersteering is out. The moreexperience one has on two wheels the less quicklyhe will adapt to a MCSCO. Conversely, the lessexperience he has as a soloist the easier he willadapt to MCSCO operations as he has less to forget.

There are two primary tipover lines, one betweenthe front and rear wheels that is effective whenturning into the chair, and the other between thefront wheel and the SC wheel, effective whenturning away from the SC. In theory, a thirdtipover line does exist between the rear wheeland the SC wheel - however that has not beenrelevant since the backwards facing rearcar lostpopularity nearly a hundred years ago. With aheavy passenger and proceeding up a steep hill aheavily laden rearcar could tipover backwards!

The tendency for the sidecar to lift increases withspeed, and as the radius of the curve decreases.Other effects include where the weight is places, thetrack width, and the location of the CoG. As thetendency for the sidecar to lift begins a condition iscreated that is called “sidecar light”. This meansthat if the weight on the SC wheel was taken while

the rig was turned into the sidecar that the weightwould be less than it was when the rig was static ornot moving.

Eventually a combination of velocity and turningradius can be reached when the centrifugal forcegenerated will balance the weight acting on thesidecar wheel. The sidecar wheel will then floatover the road surface, however, the rig will con-tinue to steer correctly. From this point on, if thespeed was to be increased still further, or theradius of the turn tightened more the sidecarwould rise higher and higher. As this is happen-ing the CoG is getting closer and closer to thetipover line. It is also moving from the stableturning condition into the unstable conditionwhich will occur when the CoG is directly overthe tipover line.

Any further increase in speed or tightening of theturn will cause the SC to flip over the bike.

Of course, once the rig is driven into the criticalunstable mode it will then behave as a asymetri-cal unbalanced solo where, if on an empty schoolparking lot it may be driven as a solo and steer-ing reversion would apply. It might be useful totest this theory out, but NEVER on public roads.It is the same as driving your family auto on itstwo left wheels, if it has positraction, or a truck ora semi-trailer rig on its left side. Why not leavethis to the stunt drivers?

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Note:The Point of Balance is where the CoG passes through theline between the line between the front and rear wheels.* Greatest angle with Driver and SC passenger, best stability.* Driver only, or driver + SC pass. + pillion pass. not quite as stable* Driver + pillion passenger - unstable by comparison!

STABILIY& POINT of

BALANCE

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Correct turning toward the sidecar should bedone as follows:

(a) Anticipate the degree of turn required, i.e., isit a gradual slow curve or is it a sharp right anglebend?

(b) Reduce your speed appropriately before enter-ing the curve, by changing down through thegears or braking, or both as required. Upon en-tering the curve maintain speed, then accelerategradually as you exit the turn.

Techniques such as applying the front or thesidecar wheel brake slightly, or moving one'sweight toward the sidecar, should all be prac-ticed. Each techniques will reduce the tendancyof the sidecar to lift to some degree. However,there is no one size fits all. Some will find theyare very comfortable to drive aggressively whileother may feel out of their depth with these ad-vanced techniques. Only you can determine justhow much risk you are willing to live with.

If you are already entering a curve at too high aspeed acceleration will only cause the sidecar torise higher even higher. However, a racing side-carist would cause the rear wheel traction to bebroken by extreme acceleration and droppingdown a gear or so. He would then broadsidearound the curve. This practice should be re-served for the racing circuit, not the highway.

Always slow down for curves into the sidecar.Racing techniques are for the race tracks.

If the sidecar lifts too easily for normal drivingcomfort, then the addition of ballast placed insidethe unit or secured to the frame, as close to thesidecar wheel as possible, improves the handling.

Turns Away From The Sidecar(Right-hand Mounted Sidecar)Centrifugal forces act whenever direction ischanged. On left turns the outfit pivots on aline between the front wheel of the motorcycleand the sidecar wheel.

Although the sidecar acts as a stabilizer or outrig-ger, the back wheel of the motorcycle can bepicked up if the turn is too sharp or the speed istoo high. This can be dangerous. The correcttechnique for turning away from the sidecar is :

Reduce normal road speed both prior to enteringthe curve and also during the curve itself. Inthis case, use the rear brake, not the front brakeor the sidecar brake. Acceleration should beginwhen mostly through the curve.

Again, there are several advanced techniqueswhich will permit you to drive into a lefthander atfaster speeds, such as body lean to the left, andkeeping the loads towards the rear of the sidecar.Unlike lifting the didecar, which is relatively slowand somewhat controllable, when you lose it on alefthander it is quick and rarely controllable.

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BrakingYour sidecar outfit may have two or even three separate brakes. Ali areimportant. Strong application of the brakes on the outfit will causedifferent responses from those on a solo machine. Locking (skidding)the rear wheel, for example, will not cause the outfit to lose control,but is still not desirable. A skidding tire increases stopping distance.Maximum braking is achieved by increasing braking pressure until thethreshold of skidding is reached.

Because much of the sidecar's weight is on the rear wheel, the rearbrake is more effective than it is on the solo machine. Rapid stopsshould be made by applying both front and rear brakes. The sidecarbrake, if available, can also improve braking efficiency.

The photo and sketches onthis page show the rolloverline for a left-hander, be-tween the front wheel andthe sidecar wheel. Notethat the combination of amiddle-lightweight rig and aheavy sidecar passenger-contributes to the proble,

Slow down before enteringthe curve, and acceleratewhen exiting the turn.

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Quick StopsA sidecar outfit, unlike a solo motorcycle, has avery unequal weight distribution. Sudden andharsh application of the front brake can causethe outfit to slew around quickly. On the otherhand, locking the rear wheel may do little morethan accelerate wear on the rear tire. It will notresult in loss of control, unless the front wheel isturned sharply to the left when the rig may slideby 180 to 360 degrees.

Both brakes should be coordinated to achieveoptimal stopping distances. If a sidecar brake Isinstalled, it can be used for emergency stops. Butunless properly hooked up and applied with com-mon sense, a sidecar brake may be a nuisance.Improved stopping power can be achieved byusing softer disc pads or linings on the motorcy-cle brakes, by adding a second disc to the frontwheel, or by converting a single leading shoe to atwin leading shoe. The latter usually involveschanging the brake plate. The chair brake, ifproperly fitted and used, will also reduce stoppingdistance. A well braked outfit can stop in distanc-es of 25 feet or less, from 30 mph, much lessthan any legally requlred stopping distances andas good as many solos or automobiles.

Avoiding ObstaclesA quick stop may not be sufficient to keep fromavoiding an object in your path. Using the side-

car characteristics you can execute a whip-change, either right then left, or vice versa, muchfaster than you can on two or four wheels. Tochange direction on two wheels you must first getthe cycle to lean in the direction you want to go,whereas with an outfit you simply wrench thehandlebars first one way then the other and yourwhip lane change is complete.

The whip-change is possible on a rig becauseeven though you may have wrenched the steeringwheel sharply to the right and the sidecar wheelbegins to come up, it takes some time for thesidecar wheel to come up, but before then youhave whip changed the other direction and nowforce the sidecar wheel down. Then you straight-en out and travel is again normal.

If a whip lane change is insufficient to avoid anobstacle and you must make a panic stop toavoid a collision, lock both front and rear wheels.The outfit will come to a stop in the shortest dis-tance possible but with minor loss of steeringcontrol. The outfit will stop in a straight line, butmay swing around. You then present the side ofthe sidecar to the object rather than a head-oncollision. This last is for extreme emergenciesonly, it should not be attempted until practicedfirst on a deserted gravel lot, then on an aban-doned parking lot.

An emergency stop while turning into the sidecarmay cause the ouflt to move to the left acrossncoming traffic.

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Changing GearsSelection of the appropriate gear is necessary tokeep the engine within its correct rpm range. Usethe lowest gear when starting off, and shift intohigher gears as speed increases. Unless you haveincreased the graeing of your bike, numerically, youwill find that you now need to feather the clutchmore and employ higher engine speeds else you willstall out. Changing the gearing, numerically higher,will allow you to keep the engine speed lower whenfirst starting off, and allow you to change into theupper gears sooner. You may also find that with alower gear your top speed may increase. Neverallow the engine to lug.

Downshifting is a very effective way to allow theengine to do some of the hard braking. To cor-rectly downshift the throttle should be grippedslightly then closed as the gear change is made,with the clutch in, so that the higher enginespeed is correct when the clutch is released.

When approaching a stop sign, always go downthrough each gear to slow down. This processinsures being in the correct gear at all times, andin low gera when starting.

Pulling in the clutch while coasting or braking toa stop is not recommended; it is then necessaryto shift through the gearbox until the correct gearis found. It is more difficult to shift the gearswhen stopped.

Always be in a gear that will allow smooth accel-eration at any time except when cruising on aninterstate or throughway, when the highest gearwould normally be used.

Shifting In A TurnDownshifting during a turn away from the sidecarcan use engine braking very effectively. Onturns into the sldecar, however, the speed shouldbe reduced and the correct gear engaged beforethe curve is entered. An advanced technique of alittle throttle while gently braking the front wheeland throwing your weight towards the sidecar willgive better control into righthanders.

Starting On A HillStarting a motorcyle-sidecar outfit on a hill Is nomore difficult than starting it on flat ground. Useyour rear brake to prevent rolling back while youstart your engine, pull in the clutch, and engagelow gear. With the brake still applied, graduallyease the clutch lever out until you feel the frictionpoint. Now slowly open the throttle while slowlyreleasing the clutch. Let the brake off as the en-gine takes hold and begins to move the cycleforward.

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BEING PERCEIVEDCar drivers involved in collisions with motorcy-cles often claim not to have seen the motorcycle.Of course, they use this same excuse when theyrun into another automobile, a truck, or even afreight train. A pedestrian, a cyclist, or even asolo motorcyclist may be somewhat difficult for amotorist to see under some conditions. But amotorcycle with sidecar attached has an outlineapproaching that of a small car when viewed

from ahead or even behind. Moreover, its un-usual configuration will draw the motorist's at-tention to it.

HeadlightBecause of the motorcycle-sidecar's much largerfrontal area, the headlight is less effective duringdaylight hours than the headlight of a small mo-torcycle. Studies conducted by the Road ResearchTransportation Laboratories in England haveshown that the low beam headlight on a smallmotorcycle is not as good a consplculty techniqueas dayglow garments or dayglow strips.

The outfit on the right has the light on (viewed from 150 yards).

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Conspicuity (Visibleness)Whereas the soloist has only a fairing, his ownbody, and a helmet that he can try to make morevisible, the sidecarist can use the entire sidecarbody to attract attention. Reflectorized or dayglowtape or bright colors on the sidecar body willgreatly enhance its conspicuity. Conspicuity-enhancement techniques will not prevent all acci-dents. The motorist, however, is less likely to hitan object that is more clearly visible.

Many motorists claim they did not see the motor-cycle until it was too late. Some studies indicateaccidents are reduced by keeping the headlighton in daytime. Other studies are contradictory.Regardless, never rely on the headlight either tocause the motorist to see you, or to grant youyour legal right of way.

Position in TrafficAn alert motorist has virtually no space aroundhim which cannot be observed by turning thehead or using his mirrors. Though a car is usual-ly equipped with two rear view mirrors besidesthe internal rear view mirror, the typical motoristdrives with poor visual habits, and with only anoccasional glance into his rear view mirror. Neverassume he has seen you.

Even if he has, he may ignore your presence; amotorcycle-sidecar does not represent a threat tohim as would a semi-trailer truck rig. Therefore,

stay out of obvious blind spots. Also, do not ridevery close behind, or give him or her any reasonto get annoyed with you. If the road ahead isclear and you wish to overtake, do so quicklythen accelerate out of the way (but within thespeed limit, of course).

With the sidecar attached, you will likely find thatnormal lane position is ideal for maximum line-of-sight contact with other vehicles at intersec-tions. When coming up on a car from the rear,position yourself so that you are clearly seen inhis rear view mirror.

Maximize your own visibility.When parking, always place the sidecar wheelagainst the curb. The width of the outfit shouldprevent other vehicles from crowding your space.

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SIDECAR OPERATOR MANUAL 4. TROUBLE SITUATIONS

4. LOOK FOR TROUBLE SITUATIONSAli motorcyclists should be constantly on thelookout for potential trouble situations. With asidecar attached, the motorist sees a vehicle ap-proaching that begins to have a size comparablewith his own. Reluctantly he may begin to recog-nize a sidecarlst as a threat and allows him hisright of way.

Good driving requires that you scan the roadseveral seconds ahead to detect any suspiciousmovement, obstruction, or hazardous road situa-tion, so you have plenty of time to avoid it or takecorrective action.

Like a solo motorcyclist, the sidecar driver canuse his height to advantage looking through thecar ahead, to observe cars ahead of it that arestopping or turning.

If the car ahead then panic brakes you are pre-pared. Always watch the roadside for cars thatappear to be parked but are waiting to get intothe flow of traffic; for pedestrians, children, oranimals who suddenly dart out into the stream oftraffic without warning and without looking; andfor a driver who has just parked.

His door may suddenly fly open without warningas he vacates his car, oblivious to the traffic situ-ation.

Head ChecksA motorcycle outfit has blind spots just as a cardoes, but for different reasons. Proper location ofsuitable mirrors can provide nearly complete cover-age of what is going on alongside and to the rear.However, many cycles suffer from vibration at cer-tain engine speeds, rendering the mirrors useless.It is a good idea to develop a practice of turningyour head completely to the side to scan trafficmovements behind you before changing lanes.

A sidecar outfit can make whip lane changes muchmore quickly than can a solo motorcycle or an auto-mobile as mentioned previously. These rapid lanechanges can surprise and frighten the motorist. Donothing to ruffle his feathers. If you treat themotorist as a hybernating bear, your chances ofsurvival will be enhanced. When changing from anoutside to a central lane be sure there is not a mo-torist changing from the other side to the samelane, also. He will survive -- not you.

Watch Out

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Trouble Situations

3. Driverabout tostep out.

I. Carabout topull out.

2. Vanreversinginto street

Using Your MirrorsTraffic situations change quickly. Always keepyour eyes moving. Scan the road ahead, thenglance to each side, and check each rearv~ewmirror. With practice, this will become routine.Try to gauge the behavior of those behind youand alongside you. Become totally aware of whereyou are and where they are. Try to predict what amotorist will do based upon his observed behav-ior pattern. In this manner you won't be caughtoff guard. A motorist will often accelerate to passthen cut in and rapidly brake to pull off the high-way right in front of you.

Use your mirrors to watch behind you. You mustbecome aware of tailgaters and "shake them". Donot allow a tailgater to stay behind you. If youcannot pull away without exceeding the speedlimit, try slowing gradually until he either dropsback or overtakes you. It may be necessary topull off the road and allow him to pass, which ismuch safer than having him too close behind youin case you need to stop qulckly.

When stopped at an intersection watch behindyou. Unfortunately, there is little you can do toprevent the motorist from slamming into you fromthe rear if you cannot proceed because of a redlight or cross traffic. Use both mirrors, signal, andturn your head every time you change lanes ormake a turn. If convex mirrors are fitted, thedistortion of distance results so that objects willappear farther away than they really are.

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Trouble Situations1. Car pulls out from curbTypical urban steet scene. You are proceedingalong an urban throughfare. You are intentlywatching the cars “parked” along the sidewalk.You suddenly see a telltale puff of smoke fromthe exhaust of a parked car immediately followedby the front left wheel suddenly angling out. Youhave several choices. You know, from past expe-rience that the driver is not looking in his/herrear mirrors to see if there is any rearwards traf-fic, nor will you see a head poke out of the driv-er’s window, turn, and see if there is any trafficcoming from behind.

No, and you can take this to the bank, that thedriver’s eyes are frozen onto the left-rear bumperof the car ahead to ensure his/her right-frontsection of the bumper does not make contact ashe/she tears out of the parking space.

What you do depends on what equipment youhave. If you have just the OEM horn, don’t both-er with it. That puny horn will not penetratethrough the enclosed cocoon of glass and steelespecially when the AC is on full blast to compen-sate for the heat soaked interior, and with the hi-fi turned up full blast to overcome the AC noise.

You can take a chance and “hope” the driver willsee you and brake hard as he/she suddenly be-comes aware of your presence. Also not good.

Or you can brake to a halt and allow the driver toget out ahead of you. Probably the best choice sofar.

Or if you installed a set of airhorns with the built-in compressor, a small blast may get the driver’sattention. On the other hand, the driver mayreact adversely and unexpectedly.

Driver about to pull out into your space

2. Driver Steps OutSame situation - urban thoroughfare. Row ofparked cars. This time, driver spots a puff ofsmoke stop from a parked car. Also sees slightmovement of the driver’s door. Based on pastexperience, driver knows that auto driver is aboutto slam his driver’s door open and exit into thestreet. Driver did not see driver’s window roll

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3. Driver Reverses into RoadwaySame situation - urban travel - now in the resi-dential area. As you proceed down the residen-tial street on a weekday mid-afternoon you see awoman reversing down her drive and soon toreverse onto the road.

Yes, she should be looking to the right and to theleft to ensure the road is clear before reversingonto the roadway. But in fact just where is she

down and a head protrude to see if all was clearfrom behind. Also, that driver did not check rearmirrors so was entirely ignorant of approachingsidecarist.

What to do? As auto engine off there is a possi-bility that auto driver may hear OEM MC horn.Sidecarist can brake to a stop and allow the cardriver to alight, perhaps the safe and manly thingto do.

Or, a blast of the air horn might get the requiredresponse, but do not count on it.

looking? Cannot be too sure but it is in one orthe other of two places. Either dead ahead toensure that the automatically closing door is infact closing properly, else dead behind to ensureshe does not run over Johnnie’s bike he left lyingon the driveway. She is certainly not lookingeither up or down the road to ensure she canback onto the road in safety. What do you do?

You can try your puny OEM horn but for reasonsstated it probably will not get her attention. Youcan stop and allow her to complete her unsafeoperation. This is definitely the safest if you canstop without making the situation worse.

Or you can hit her with your air horn. This mightwork, but then again, it might not bring the de-sired response from her.

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SIDECAR OPERATOR MANUAL 5. CONTROL POSITIONING

5. Control PositioningPositioningAs the operator of a sidecar outfit you are notmuch better off than the driver of an automobileas far as optimum positioning in traffic is con-cerned. To some extent, you can move to one sideof the lane or another and by body english see alittle further into the curve.

On the other hand, at an intersection you canpeer around buildings, parked cars, or busheswithout having to stick out six feet or more ofyour hood. Also, if planning to execute a U-turn,you can angle the outfit into a position fromwhich you can easily observe oncoming traffic.

KEEPING SPACE CUSHIONThe safest protection you can provide is a spacecushion between yourself and other road users. Ifsomeone makes a mistake, there is time to react,and you can seek a place of refuge.

Following DistanceThe two-second rule is an easy way to judge asafe following distance. It allows a sufficient dis-tance between you and the car ahead to react ifnecessary.

Pick a landmark, such as a road sign or an over-pass, in front of the vehicle ahead of you. Begincounting when that vehicle passes the stationary

object. "One thousand and one, one thousandand two". You should arrive at that landmark at thesame time you say "two", or later. Many suggestthat a gap of 3 to 5 seconds is even safer, if it canbe maintained. Keep this distance from the carahead even when traffic slows or stops. If a motoristbehind you does not stop, at least you may have achance to move up and get out of his way.

The Two Second Rule

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Distance to the SideAvoid riding next to any other vehicle. This willinsure you can move laterally if a problem arises.The driver of a sidecar outfit like the motoristcannot alter his lane position appreciably, unlikethe soloist who can alter his lane position astraffic conditions change. Still, as the averageoutfit is less than five feet in width in lanes thatmay be ten feet or more, the sidecarist can moveover to some extent. When being overtaken, forexample, crowd the lane opposite to the overtak-ing vehicle. If traffic is of uniform density on ei-ther side, stay in the center of your lane.

Give way to any motor vehicle that is larger thanyou, especially large trucks and buses. In addi-tion to their drivers not recognizing you as athreat, they can also create wind gusts that buffetyou. Unlike the soloist who may lose control, instrong gusts, to the sidecarist they will simply bea mild discomfort to you.

IntersectionsMost motorcycle-car collisions happen at inter-sections. This may be partly due to the driversnot paying attention to their driving (they also hitpedestrians and cyclists) and partly due to theirlack of fear of the motorcyclist. A typical accidentis as follows: A motorcyclist, with or without hislights on, is continuing straight ahead. The ap-proaching car signals to turn, comes to a full

stop, establishes apparent eye contact, then pro-ceeds directly into the path of the oncoming mo-torcyclist.

A car may also pull into the main street from a sidestreet and collide with the motorcyclist. Alwaysassume the car will enter your path if it can.

Your greater width and increased conspicuityover a solo motorcycle may offer some degree ofprotection but do not count on it. Move as farfrom the car as possible.

If the car is on your right move to the left, andvice versa. If possible, change lanes and use oth-er vehicles to run interference.

Always approach intersections slowly, in a gearthat will allow maximum acceleration if neces-sary. If the driver does want the spot you are in,brake, swerve, or accelerate to get out of his way.

Parked CarsWhen passing parked cars, the sldecarist haslittle advantage over the motorist. Drivers ofparked cars often fail to look behind them andopen their doors with gay abandon. When pullingout, they are often more concerned with whethertheir right front bumper will hit the left rearbumper of the parked car ahead than with whatdamage or consternation their pulling into trafficwill have. They may suddenly execute a U-turn infront of the motorcyclist, leaving him with noplace to go.

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Always check parked cars for any signs of move-ment such as the sudden turning of the frontwheel or the tell-tale puff of smoke from the ex-haust. Approach cautiously with the fingers onyour left-hand poised on or near the horn buttonor headlight flasher or both, and the fingers ofyour right hand poised over the brake front lever.

Sharing LanesCars and motorcycle-sidecar outfits each need afull lane to operate safely. Do not share a lane.Your width does not allow you to squeeze be-tween adjacent traffic lanes. Nor should two out-fits ride abreast in a single lane, although thismay sometimes be permissible for solo motorcy-clists. Always discourage a potential lane-sharerby staying in the center of your lane. Be preparedto drop back and yield your space if anotherroad-user insists on taking it.

Merglng CarsCars entering a highway from an entrance rampoften are not concerned with disrupting the trafficflow on the highway, expecially if they see only asmall vehicle in their path. Change lanes or yieldyour position rather than risk an altercation.

Cars AlongsldeUnless traffic is bumper-to-bumper, do not ridealongside other vehicles. Motorists often changelanes with a total disregard for other vehicles,especially those smaller than themselves. Alwaystry to keep a clear space on either side for emer-gencies, should anything happen in your lane.

Distance BehindBe constantly aware of tailgaters. Change lanes, ifpossible, and let them go on their way, or try toopen up additional dlstance. If necessary, pull overand stop. Better the tailgater on another motorist'sbumper than on your unprotected rear wheel.

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SIDECAR OPERATOR MANUAL 6. HANDLING UNUSUAL SURFACES

6. HANDLING UNUSUAL SURFACESA sidecar outfit is one of the most stable vehicles,on or off the road. When irregular surfaces suchas ice make normal travel difficult, the sidecaristwill find little difficulty. Snow, slush, sand, oilslicks, wet manhole covers, painted lines, unevenroad surfaces, road bumps, or even patches ofblack ice are dangerous to the solo motorcyclistbut present few problems to the sidecarist. Partof the sidecar's unique ability to handle all roadsurfaces is that one wheel is used for steering,one for traction, and one for stability. Each pre-forms its allotted task.

Regardless, the sidecarist always should showrespect for such surfaces, approaching and trav-eling on them with caution. There is never anyneed to use your feet as outriggers as one wouldon a solo machine. For glare ice or mud, chainsare available for added traction. These chains aresimilar to those used on solo machines for hill-climbing.

Uneven SurfacesWatch for uneven surfaces such as bumps andbroken pavement, chuckholes, and railroadtracks, and approach with caution. Rarely willyou encounter a situation bad enough to losecontrol, but traveling over such surfaces at speedwill do neither your machine nor your kidneysany good. Therefore, if they cannot be avoided

slow down and try to cross any minor obstacleshead-on. Take care not to straddle rocks protrud-ing from the road bed with a low slung outfit. Youcan get high-centered and damage an unprotect-ed fiberglass sidecar bottom. Shock of impactover rough road surfaces can be lessened byrising slightly on the footpegs and allowing yourknees and elbows to absorb the shock. However,your sidecar passenger will experience a roughpassage.

Most railroad tracks do not present any problemand may be crossed at any angle without fear. Itis best, however, to cross at an angle over railsrunning parallel to your path, to avoid catching atire alongside the rail.

Riding Over ObjectsSidecars can be driven over extremely roughground with any or all wheels in the air with noloss of control. Just take care not to high center alow-slung chair on a protruding object.

Sometimes you have little choice but to ride overan object in your path. If an object must be ridenover, keep a firm grip on the handlebars. Keepthe course straight, and rise slightly on the foot-pegs to allow your knees and elbows to absorbthe shock. Check tires, wheel rims, and spokesfor damage after hitting a solid object.

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SIDECAR OPERATOR MANUAL 6. HANDLING UNUSUAL SURFACES

Grooves and GratingsWhen driving an outfit over rain grooves or metalbridge grating, little traction change will be noted.No loss of control or even a tendency to wander isexperienced as might be the case with a solomotorcycle.

Sloping SurfacesDriving an outfit on a severely sloping surface willtend to make it want to edge off the road. A solomotorcyclist would compensate for this by leaningup-slope; this has no effect on directional controlwith a sidecar. Instead, pressure must be exertedon the handlebars, pulling one and pushing theother, to maintain travel straight ahead. If a side-carist often drives on high-crowned roads, he cancompensate by adjusting motorcycle lean-outslightly, or by increasing toe-in, or both. Whendriving on flat roads the outfit would now have atendency to veer to the right, unless pressure isplaced on the bars to straighten the rig.

The only effect of turning an outfit to the left on aseverely banked right-hand surface is that a littlemore force must be applied to the handlebars toturn. On the other hand, turns to the right will beconsiderably easier. Normal road speeds are per-missible for sidecar outfits on sloping surfaces.

Corrugated surfaces and Gravel RoadsOff road driving is generally more forgiving thanconcrete and macadam. Your rig is stable. Youwill find you can drive faster than your skill soslow down and drive very carefully. With only 55percent of the 900,000 km of roads paved in theUS there is an awlful lot of unpaved roads toinvestigate.

Corrugations are a fact of life with any road sur-face - whether sand, gravel, concrete, or macad-am. Occurs even with rail lines. The same princi-ple causes the cyclic wear pattern in ball androller bearings. So let’s deal with them.

A corrugation forms in dry materials only, not inwet or muddy surfaces. A very slow speeds youwill feel each bump as you go over it. At higherspeeds the vibrations become less, until youreach a resonance speed where it feels like yourvehicle will come to pieces. Above or below theresonance speed you will find a speed where theeffect is minimal. Always try to find a speed be-low the resonance speed where you feel safe.

Slow down for curves to left or right. There isless chance to lift the chair as you will slide.Practice turning and sliding on loose gravel untilyou find how your rig behaves. Can you do figure8’s, slowly at first, always under full control?Above all, do not turn the front wheel sharply. Itwill not turn but will just plow ahead.

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SIDECAR OPERATOR MANUAL 7. NIGHT RIDING

7. NIGHT RIDINGThe primary purposes of your headlight(s) andother lighting are to be able to see clearly, and tobe clearly seen. Those who use only a singleheadlight or taillight at nighttime are not reallylooking after their own safety. Unless you clearlydefine your width by at least small running lightson the outside of the sidecar, white or yellow tothe front and red or yellow to the rear, the on-coming driver will believe you are just a solo mo-torcycle and may force you off the road.

Your width is not clearly discernable to him, asyou have partially blinded him with your head-light so that he is looking at the edge of the road,not at you. With the outside running light, he willat least believe you are a one-eyed car or truckand give you the room you require.

The situation is not as critical for an overtakingmotorist who should be able to clearly see yourwidth, with or without the rear running light onthe sidecar.

Still, it is more prudent to install running lightsfront and rear. Reflector strips can be used togreat advantage over the entire body of the side-car for maximum nighttime conspicuity.

Your need all the lights you can use at nighttime,especially when traveling on narrow windingroads. Always use your high beam when not fol-lowing or meeting a car. Switch to quartz-halogenbeams if not installed as original equipment, if

your electrical system can supply the slight addi-tional drain. Not only will you get a cleaner, whit-er light that penetrates farther than the old tung-sten filament bulbs or normal sealed beam units,but quartz-halogen lights also provide a crisp,clean cutoff on low beam, so that the oncoming orfollowed motorist is not as dazzled as he is withother headlights (if your lamp is properly adjust-ed).

Note: The American sealed beam quartz-halogenlamps do not have the crisp cutoff on low beamthat the European replacable quartz-halogenlamps have. Even the newer F5 US Q-H replace-able bulbs are not as crisp as the H-4 Q-H bulbs.

If your system has sufficient electrical power, youshould consider an additional headlight on thesidecar which may contain a driving beam for usewhen not passing or meeting another vehicle. Thelight may also have a dual filament and be usedas a normal headlight.

Always check your local State code to make sureyour additional lighting is legal. If vehicle lightingis inadequate, slow down. Never overdrive yourheadlights.

Sometimes you may let another car lead if youhave confidence in that driver (or you both mayget lost). Spaces between vehicles should be in-creased at nighttime, because distances are notas easy to judge. This includes following distanc-es. More space should be left when overtaking.

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SIDECAR OPERATOR MANUAL 8. EMERGENCIES

8. EMERGENCIES

On occasion you will find yourself in a tight situa-tion no matter how careful you are. Studies indi-cate some motorists and motorcyclists neitherbraked nor took evasive action prior to impact.Had they responded appropriately, the impactmight not have occurred. Certainly the conse-quences would have been lessened.

Avoiding ObstaclesA quick stop may not be sufficient to avoid anobject in your path. Using the sidecar character-istics you can execute a whip-change, either rightthen left, or vice versa, much faster than you canon two or four wheels.

To change direction on two wheels you must firstget the cycle to lean in the direction you want togo, whereas with an outfit you simply wrench thehandlebars first one way then the other, and yourwhip lane change is complete.

If a whip lane change is insufficient to avoid anobstacle, and you must make a panic stop to avoida collision, lock both front and rear wheels. Theoutfit will come to a stop in the shortest distancepossible but with minor loss of steering control. Thislast is for extreme emergencies only, it should notbe attempted until practiced first on a desertedgravel lot then on an abandoned parking lot. Anemergency stop while turning into the sidecar maycause the oufit to move left across oncoming traffic.

Minor EmergenciesThe following should not cause the sidecarist tolose control but are possible emergencies :

(a) Flying Objects

Objects such as cigarettes, cans, bottles, or otherdebris are constantly thrown from automobiles.Sand, gravel, and all manner of sundry items fallfrom the back of trucks. Loose or fresh road surfacematerials may be kicked up by the tires of largetrucks. Insects, bugs, and birds have collided withmotorcycles on occasion. Without face protection ofsome type, you could be struck in the mouth, eyes,or nose. If wearing a face shield, it could becomecracked or smeared. Above all, do not lose control.Keep your eyes on the road and your hands on thehandlebars. Pull off the road as quickly as it is safeto do so, and repair the damage.

(b) Animals

Domestic and wild animals should be avoided.Motorcyclists have been killed in collisions with alltypes of animals, including dogs, horses, deer, andcows. Slow down as soon as an animal is seen,while gearing down so that you may rapidly acceler-ate if the situation warrants. If traffic allows, swerveout of its path. If the animal is small and you canneither swerve nor stop, try to hit it with the nose ofyour sidecar or sidecar wheel. You will do far lessdamage, and you will not lose control.

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SIDECAR OPERATOR MANUAL 9. Mechanical Failures

MECHANICAL FAILURESBlowoutsA blowout on any of the three wheels of a sidecaroutfit is not really critical unless you happen tobe executing a particularly serious maneuver atthat precise instant. The motorcycle tire is littlemore than a narrow tube of air. Rarely will a tirecome off the rim if the tire is held on with rimlocks. Rim locks should be added to the rims ofolder machines for improved safety.

Steering will feel heavy if the front tire blows. Itwill also feel quite bumpy. Glance down, visual-ly checking the tire condition. A flat tire will bedistended where it meets the road surface. If therear tire blows, the rear end will feel quitebumpy. It will also feel a little "swishy".

A flat tire on the sidecar can sometimes be diffi-cult to perceive because it normally has so littleload. It may be noticed most when turning to theleft. You may find the outfit begins to pull a littlemore, or that the whole machine leans toward thesidecar just a little. The effect will be magnifiedwhen the sidecar is loaded.

Should a blowout occur, simply hold the barsfirmly, slow down, and steer off the road as soonas it is safe to do so. Normal braking can be ap-plied to any wheel other than the one with theblown tire. Unless the rear tire has blown, thebraking effect of the engine can also be used toassist in slowing. With three tires rather than

two, and one tire serving to maintain stability andbalance, the effects of any blowout are minimal.

Stuck ThrottleSometimes the throttle may refuse to close due toa cable or linkage problem. If this occurs in trafficor while negotiating a decreasing radius curve,you could be in trouble. The first thing to do is touse the ignition cutoff switch to turn off the en-gine. If you pull in the clutch instead, the enginewill turn too fast. Depending upon engine revs atthe time the clutch was pulled in, the enginecould reach very high speed, well into the redzone. As soon as you discover the throttle isstuck, turn off the engine, ease off the road safe-ly, and determine the cause.

WobbleThe only wobble sidecarists are likely to encoun-ter is slow-speed front-wheel wobble. They arehardly likely to experience high-speed weave. Ifwobble exists it will usually be felt at speeds be-tween 5 to 30 mph.

Normally, it is easily controllable by simply grip-ping the bars firmly. Generally, it presents only aminor aggravation and will not lead to loss ofcontrol. It can usually be eliminated or reducedby installing a friction or a hydraulic steeringdamper. Some outfits require no damping, othersa little, a few a lot. Too much dampening if notneeded will deaden steering response.

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SIDECAR OPERATOR MANUAL 9. Mechanical Failures

Engine SeizureEngine seizure is the result of tremendous over-heating which may be caused by lack of lubri-cation or, sometimes, by improper break-in pro-cedures. Symptoms of an impending seizure areloss of power and a change in the sound of theengine. If this is noticed, close the throttle andpull in the clutch. Pull off the road as soon as it issafe to do so. If the machine is driven until theengine seizes completely, a massive overhaul ofthe engine could be necessary. A minor seizuremay be of little consequence if the engine hasbeen allowed to cool down.

If the rear wheel locks up it should not result in aloss of control of the motorcycle outfit. Simplypull in the clutch to free the wheel, then brake toa stop when prudent to do so.

If the problem was lack of oil, fill with oil anddetermine the source of any oil leakage.

Getting Off The PavementSome tips if you have to leave the roadway - First,check that the shoulder is wide enough to accomo-date your motorcycle outfit including space to com-fortably walk around and inspect or repair withot itbeing a hazard to other road users. The condition ofthe off-road surface is of little importance unless itis of large, harsh, broken rocks. Be sure to useclear signals of your intent to pull over, and lookbehind to be sure it is safe to do so.

Adjustable Friction Steering Damper

Non-adjustable Hydraulic Steering Damper

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SIDECAR OPERATOR MANUAL 10. Carrying Passengers, Cargo, Ballast

CARRYING PASSENGERS/CARGOAND BALLASTA motorcycle and sidecar are designed for carry-ing passengers and cargo. The extra weight doesnot present any serious change in handling char-acteristics if a little thought is given to where thepassengers or cargo are carried. With a sidecarattached the best place for the passenger is in thesidecar. Do not put a single passenger on theback of the motorcycle saddle.

A second passenger can be placed on the rear ofthe motorcycle saddle, if the seat is designed fortwo persons, and if footpegs have been provided.When two adult passengers are carried, be care-ful not to exceed the load rating of the rear tire.

Passengers in the sidecar are protected in anenclosed carriage which usually has a windshield.Protective clothing is generally recommended.However, the sidecar oufit is a family unit, andsafe carriage of infants and small children iscommonplace.

If motorcycle helmets are not available for verysmall children, bicycle helmets may be an alter-nate solution.

Always use the best helmet available even if notDOT approved in small sizes.

When carrying a child and an adult passenger, it isvery bad practice to put the child in the sidecar andthe passenger on the rear of the motorcycle saddle.

This can upset the balance and handling. Theheavy load should always be in the sidecar. If forsome reason it is necessary to load the outfit thusly,additional ballast should be added to the sidecar.

Some types of ballast are:

1. Installation of a 12 volt car battery behind thesidecar seat. This can be an effective way to in-crease electrical storage capacity by linking thebattery to your machine's electrical system. Italso improves starting power in cold weather.

2. A 3 to 5 gallon fuel tank can be added behindthe sidecar seat, but this could present a sub-stantial fire hazard in a collision. Another methodused is to install a long, small diameter, cylindri-cal fuel tank above or below the sidecar frame.This adds to the effective driving range of theoutfit but you need to be sure you do not get highcentered.

3. A piece of flat steel plate may be mounted on topof or within the sidecar frame and below the body.

4. Steel weight or lead weight can be affixed tothe sidecar frame as low and as close to the side-car wheel as possible.

Very few special precautions are needed whencargo or passengers are carried. You may findperformance has been cut slightly and that stop-ping ~istances are longer so allow a little extradistance for this. The addition of the sidecar pas-senger will greatly improve stability.

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SIDECAR OPERATOR MANUAL 10. Carrying Passengers, Cargo, Ballast

You will find that the sidecar is now more difficultto get airbourne when turning toward the sidecar,though it can still be done (don't try it with thepassenger).

Those curves can now be made at faster speeds.With the sidecar passenger, more turning forcewill be needed when turning away from the side-car. And on high-crowned roads you may findyourself tugging at the handlebars a little morenow.

As the passengers are firmly in the sidecar, it isnot necessary to give them any special instruc-tions. They can get into the sidecar at any time,as long as the outfit is stationary.

If the sidecar is designed for two adult passengersin tandem, a lone passenger should sit in the rearseat. If the sidecar is loaded, and an added pas-senger is carried on the rear of the operator'ssaddle, that passenger should sit upright at alltimes. It is not necessary for the passenger tolean into curves with the operator as when ridingas passenger on a solo machine.

CargoA sidecar outfit is ideally suited for carryingloads, as long as the weight does not exceed tireor sidecar loading capacity.

Loads should be distributed toward the rear ofthe sidecar, to reduce tipping of the nose on sud-

den turns away from the sidecar. Loads shouldbe firmly tied in place, and within the sidecar ifpossible.

If the load is placed on top of the sidecar the tiesshould be checked frequently.

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SIDECAR OPERATOR MANUAL 11. Trailers

TRAILERS

The sidecar outfit can pull medium sized trailersquite safely. Trailers can contain additionalcargo or portable tents. Some trailers are towedfrom the rear of the motorcycle, just as they arefor a solo machine. This increases the width ofthe motorcycle-sidecar combination quite drasti-cally. Consider that a trailer will be from 42 to56 inches wide and the motorcycle with sidecarwill be from 42 to 73 inches. Using the H-D as anexample of the larger bike, the overall width ofMC, SC, and trailer is about 106 inches for thein-line hitch, se next page.

Others prefer to tow from the inner sidecarframe. This allows the trailer to track evenly be-hind the sidecar outfit and reduces the overallwidth of the combination to about is 84 inches. Ineither case, no difficulty is experienced in towing.

The ideal position is the one where YOU feel com-fortable. From my experience, I have found theoffset tow puts additional weight on the sidecarand makes right handers more stable. I had noproblems with braking or accelerating. Be sureyou allow for longer braking distances and slowdown for corners both to right and left.

When starting, feather the clutch more and feedthe throttle a bit more, but within reason,. Thereis no need to redline the engine. Feed the clutchslowly and progressively.

Follow all State codes regarding safety chains andlighting required for trailers. Whereas the sidecarcan be used for either cargo or passengers, thetrailer must only be used for cargo. Gone are thedays when trailers were used for passengers.Today, the only passenger trailers seen are forsmall children behind bicycles in the parks, andfor near empty Metro Buses in the ‘burbs.

The addition of a trailer will reduce performanceand increase braking distances, which must beallowed for in your driving habits. This is espe-cially true when going down steep hills. Use yourlower gears to aid braking, and do so before youfeel you really need to use those brakes.

Small auto/large MC trailer- towball offset to right -track of trailer follows track of MC/SC outfit

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H-D FLHT/TLE w/ in-line Trailer: 92-111 ins H-D FLHT/TLE w/ offset Trailer: 79-83 ins

Another factor is that even a small trailer allowsyou to pack additional items more easily andsecurely for extended trips than is possible withjust your sidecar. Unless your sidecar is a Wat-sonian Oxford DL or a Gemini 3 seater you havevery limited cargo capacity, especially if you alsocarry a passenger. A small trailer will follow youeasily without an offset hitch but the narrowtrailer track is not as stable as a wider track.

The support frame for the hitch must be very welldesigned whether it is at the rear of the bike, oris offset and on the sidecar frame. Whether aball or a universial swivell is used it must providefor a positive non-slip and non-loosening connec-tion to the frame. It must allow for at least 90degrees of horizontal rotation and at least 30degrees of vertical rotation.

The “universal” hitch will fit most smaller Japbikes but the BMWs, H-Ds, and larger Jap tour-ing bikes will usually need specialized or customhitches. The offset hitch will most certainly needto be custom fitted but can usually be fabricatedfrom stock components. If fitting an offset hitch,be sure that the sidecar frame is well triangulatedso that the pull is transmitted to the bike and notto just the sidecar frame. This can usually bedone by installing a fifth mount from in front ofthe ball to the upper right shock mount or underthe seat. All mounting points for either the side-car or the trailer should be on the main frameand not on any auxillary frame component suchas a brake stay, or a pillion footrest support. If indoubt, always get a second opinion from a recog-nized expert in this field such as an installer orbuilder of sidecars or motorcycle trailers.

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Large trailer tracks ideally within MC SC track

A trailer should always be loaded so that is bal-anced (from left to right) and so that there is apositive load of between 35 to 75 pounds on thehitch. There should never be an upward force onthe hitch, not should it be extremely heavy. Anempty trailer is not a good idea. It can bouncealarmingly, especially if the tires are over pres-sured and there is no suspension or very stiffsuspension. A medium suspension with hydrau-lic damping is more or less ideal.

Brakes are an excellent investment on medium toheavy trailers but not really necessary for lightertrailers if your rig is already equipped with largedual disks up front, a large rear brake, and agood SC brake tied into your rear brake system.

You are not out of the woods with wobbles andvibration after sorting it out with your sidecar.The trailer can provide sway as well as vibrationand wobbles. Check out the obvious, out obround or out of balance tires, rims, or wheels,and loose or worn bearings. If not, then see ifshocks on the trailer will help. If there is a speedwhere the trailer begins to sway, stay below thatspeed. Do not attempt fate by trying to driveupwards through the swaying mode. I had atrailer that began to sway because of overloadingand worn and dry wheel trailer bearings. Thetrailer almost capsized but did not go over as thetrailer wheel collapsed, the tire blew out, and thetrailer axle bent. A costly learning experience.

Cycle Mate Rear Hitch

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Now for more driving tips - start out slower, ac-celerate less, and plan to slow down more. Whileit might be smart to lock the rear wheel of thesidecar rig for sharp broadsiding ledthanders, todo this when pulling a sidecar can be disastrous,especially if the trailer jacknifes on you. If yourrear wheel locks, unlock it, now! Practice slowingand stopping, and using your gears to slow down.Use your trailer brakes before you need them tosee how they feel. They should not be a problemif travelling ahead but may give surprises if on asharp turn.

When driving with a trailer it is even more impor-tant that you never lug the engine. Always be ina gear that will allow you to accelerate cleanlyand without chain or driveline snatch at all times.

Just as you learned to remember to maintainyour distance from the curb when you first in-stalled your sidecar, so you must learn whereyour trailer is, especially if it is mounted directlybehind your bike. You must move over to theright so that it does not contact oncoming traffic,but more likely you will forget its width whendriving at slow speeds in cramped quarters suchas at a campground or parking lot.

Make sure your mirroes are now suitable for thetask and that you can see around the added bulkbehind you. If not, get extensions but be awarethat the longer arms tend to vibrate more. Avibrating mirror is worse than no mirror.

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SIDECAR OPERATOR MANUAL 12. Group Riding

GROUP RIDINGRiding in groups, unless properly sponsored and supervised, can interfere with other road users. Ifmany sidecarlsts wish to travel together from Point A to Point B, they should split up into groups ofno more than four or five. Motorcycle-sldecar outfits cannot split traffic and must stay within trafficlanes. Their width prevents them from riding two abreast, or even in a staggered formation as soloriders can.

A responsible leader should be appointed to keep the group together. He must give signals well inadvance of intended changes, so the group can follow.

Inexperienced riders should follow the leader, while an experienced rear guard keeps tabs on thoseahead. The group should follow the pace of the rear guard and not try to play "catch up" with theleader.

The group should stay together in close formation while maintaining the two-second rule. If it is nec-essary to pass another road user who is not a member of the group, it should be done by only onemember of the group at a time.

Follow the 2 Second Rule when Riding in a Group

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SIDECAR OPERATOR MANUAL 13. Operator Physical/Mental Condition

OPERATOR PHYSICAL/MENTAL CONDITIONRiding a motorcycle-sidecar outfit is not demanding as long as you are in normal good health. Ac-tive sidecarists include men and women over eighty years old. They even include quadraplegics whooperate their sidecar outfit while sitting in a wheelchair in the sidecar, with special controls attachedto the sidecar to operate the motorcycle. The operator should stay fresh and alert to cope with trafficsituations.

Foremost in reducing alertness is alcohol. Do not drink and drive. Alcohol affects your judgement,vision, and timlng.

Do not take any other drugs that may affect your riding skills. This includes prescription drugs.Check with your physician or druggist on possible side effects.

Stop if you feel weak or dizzy. Continue if you must at a slower pace, allowlng more distance betweenyou and other road users to compensate for your slower reaction time.

Do not drive long dlstances without taking plenty of breaks. Protect yourself from the elements.This includes use of the correct type of protective clothing for the conditions anticipated.

Do not cover any more distance than you feel comfortable in doing. For some, this may be 150 milesa day - for others, 300, or perhaps more.

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SIDECAR OPERATOR MANUAL 14. Motorcycle/Sidecar Outfit

MOTORCYCLE/SIDECAR OUTFITThere are plenty of things on the highway tocause you trouble. Your outfit should not be oneof them. Make sure your outfit is properlyequipped and maintained.

Do not add any accessories that make it harderto manage.

The Necessary Basic EquipmentWhen adding a sidecar to a motorcycle you canexpect a drop in performance to that of the nextsmaller size of solo machine. Sidecars have beenadded to all types of two-wheeled vehicles frommotor-scooters and mopeds to 1300cc motorcy-cles! Generally, the addition of a sidecar to amotorcycle of less than 250cc is not recommend-ed, motor-scooters excepted. Even a beginnershould be able to handle a sidecar outfit of 350 to400cc, equivalent to a 250cc solo machine.

With a sidecar outfit you are not concerned withbalance or the ability of your feet to touch theground as you would be for a solo machine. It ismore important that whatever machine you selectshould feel right to you.

Most States do not have any special requirementsfor a motorcycle-sidecar outfit except those thatpertain to the motorcycle itself.

Generally Requirements:* A headlight and a tail light

^ Front and rear brakes* Turn signals (some States optional)

* Horn* Rear view mirror (left and right)

* A seat and footpegs for a passenger on the mo-torcycle

* In some states, the passenger must besecquered by a seat belt.

All must be functional and working.

In addition, whether or not required by law, it is

recommended that a rear view mirror be installedon both sides of the operator; that running lightsbe installed on the sidecar; and that turn signals,if fitted, be relocated so that one set is on theoutside of the sidecar, the other set remaining onthe opposite side of the motorcycle. Again, iffitted, all must be functional and operational.Reflectors and reflectorized tape should also beadded as appropriate.

Sidecar CareYour sidecar outfit should always be maintainedin good condition at ali times. In addition to thenormal safety checks each time you ride, youshould also make the following checks, periodi-cally or weekly:

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SIDECAR OPERATOR MANUAL 14. Motorcycle/Sidecar Outfit

(1) Check tires for tread wear. If the wear is uneven,your outfit may not be correctly aligned. A reartire can become totally worn-out in less than I000miles if the sidecar is badly misaligned. Alsocheck for cuts or cracks that could result In ablowout. Pressure should be maintained at themanufacturer's recommended upper llmit.

(2) Check wheels for missing or loose spokes, andthe wheel rim for out-of-roundness and wobble.Check for worn or loose wheel bearings. Frontwheel wobble can be caused by the tire or wheelbeing out of round or out of balance. Sidecaroperation puts considerably more strain onwheels and spokes than does solo operation.

(3) Check steering braces and steering damper.(4) Check and lubricate all controls, cables, and

linkages. Ali controls should function smoothly.All cables should be free of kinks or brokenstrands.

(5)Lubricate the chain and check for correct ten-sion. Adjust if necessary. Be sure rearsprocket is in correct alignment with the frontsprocket. Check sprocket for abnormal wear.

(6) Check shock absorbers for action. If they bot-tom out or leak, they should be adjusted, re-built, or replaced.

(7) Check all motorcycle and sidecar fastenersand parts for loose or missing nuts, bolts, orpins. Motorcycles are subject to severe vibrationwhich shakes and breaks things off.

(7) Check brakes for proper action. Check forhydraulic fluid level and conditlon, also forleakage of hydraulic lines and their condition.The brakes should be capable of locking, if nonABS, and not scrape. If the wheel cannot bemade to lock, or if there is a scraping sound,investigate the cause and correct it.

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SIDECAR OPERATOR MANUAL 15. Sidecar Operator Skill Test

SIDECAR OPERATOR SKILL TESTSafe sidecar skills are neither tested nor evaluat-ed on regular solo motorcycle skill tests. Thefollowing covers pertinent skills needed by thesidecarist.

The applicant should be equipped with normalprotective clothing that includes an approvedhelmet, riding clothes, and boots.

Tests should include:

Starting On A HillRide a short distance on a hill. Stop. Start. Ridein first gear on the hill. Points will be lost if :

(a) The engine stalls or cannot be kept runningafter it has been stopped to begin the test.

(b) The motorcycle is allowed to roll back whilestarting, or while attempting to move forward,as long as this does get out of control.

Note:(a) Many motorcycles are now equipped with only

an electic starter. How the engine is startedshould not be an issue.

(b) Use of feet should not be an issue. Except -get the feet off the ground and onto the footrests/pegs, especially the right foot.

No balance problems are involved.

Sharp Turn, Turning, and StoppingBegin from a stop and make a sharp right turn.Continue turning right, and speed up to 15 mph.

Shift to second gear. Turn left, and come back onthe same curve at 15 mph. Make a gradual stopwith the front tire between two lines.

On the sharp turn, points are lost if you:

(a) Ride outside the curve.

While turning right or left, you lose points if you:(a) Ride outside the curve.

(b) Ride too slow.

While stopping you can lose points if you:

(a) Skid the wheels.(b) Miss the stop lines.

Turning Speed JudgmentIn this test you will ride around a curve at your

own safe maximum speed.

Your lose points if you:(a) Ride too slow.

(b) Ride outside the curve.

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SIDECAR OPERATOR MANUAL 15. Sidecar Operator Skill Test

Quick Stop - StraightRide at 15 mph. Stop as quickly as possible when

the signal is given, using both brakes.

Your lose points if you:(a) Ride too slow.

(b) Take too long to stop.(c) Swerve to the left.

Quick TurnRide at 15 mph, then turn quickly around a 7-

foot-wide barrier, turning either left or rightaccording to the signal.

Once around the barrier turn back the otherway.

Your lose points if you:

(a) Ride too slow.(b) Turn the wrong way.

(c) Ride over the barrier.

Stopping the TestThe examiner will stop the test if you disregardinstructions, or if you loose sufficient points thatwould cause you to fail, or if you, in the opinionof the instructor, exhibit a wanton disregard forsafe driving habits.

You may also stop the test at any time if you feeluncomfortable or do not feel confident to proceed.Practice, then retake the test later.

the sidecar operator manual 2003.sidecar.com/files/sc op manual.pdfmany have turned to the sidecar...

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