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T H E P R I N C I P L E S O F P L A N T I N G

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MAX

Corona’s best-in-class tools, designed for professionals and passionate gardeners looking for heavy-duty durability and lasting performance, season after season.

• Maximum sharpness/durability/strength• Forged, heavy-gauge steel and higher

quality materials offering strength and performance

• Limited Lifetime Warranty• Extensive replacement parts program• Founded on Corona’s heritage

Designed for general, less intense use by casual gardeners and landscaping enthusiasts who want comfort and control.

• Feature-rich tools with value-oriented performance

• Limited Warranty• Limited replacement parts

REDw

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We garden for all sorts of reasons: to

get healthy exercise on a sunny day, to

add valuable curb-appeal to our homes,

to create a habitat for wildlife, or a play

space for our families. Whatever your

goal, making a garden means working

with plants. And doing this successfully is

not rocket science.

“Gardening is one of life’s simplest pleasures, this I learned

at the very beginning of my practice. It is not rocket science,

althought some try to make it so. When first starting out I

learned best from other gardeners asking questions about

what did and didn’t work.” – Ethne Clarke

There are a just a few basic principles, which,

if followed to begin with, will help you to car-

ry on happily, learning more about plants

and the simple practices of horticulture as

you grow with your garden.

Visiting public gardens is a great way to

learn what you can grow well in your area

and how to grow it – simply by talking to the

gardeners. Education is often part of their

job…and what gardener doesn’t like to shoot

the breeze about their favorite thing to do?

GOOD BEGINNINGS

THE BASICS

Know your soil.

Know your climate zone.

Know your site.

Know the fundamentals.

Use the right tool for the job.

With these basic principles in hand, you

have all the prime information you need

to follow the most significant principle:

Suit the plant to the site.

“Too often, I have watched as people try to plant successful-

ly using tools that were meant for everything from digging

ditches to slicing pie. It invariably ends in tears of frustra-

tion, and sometimes pain, as using the wrong tool can lead

to personal injury. It also damages plants, preventing them

from getting off to a good start.”

– Ethne Clarke

Most garden-planting projects can be

achieved successfully using the tools

described in this guide. Large scale land-

scaping projects, however, are best left to a

professional who has the heavy equipment

needed for escavation, contouring and so on.

Find a certified landscape contractor on

National Association of Landscape Professionals.

www.landscapeprofessionals.org

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BASICS OF HOW AND WHEN TO PLANT

Soil types

What kind of soil do you have? Dig a hole

about the size of a one gallon plant contain-

er and fill it with water. If it drains away in

about an hour, you have very well-drained,

sandy soil. If the water takes a couple hours

to drain, you’re in luck. You have the moist,

well-drained soils gardeners want. If your

hole takes more than four hours to drain,

you have poorly drained soil. Poorly drained

soil and heavy clay soils can be challenging

to plants and should be amended before

investing in plants.

When To Plant

Flowering shrubs can be planted almost any

time of the year, although you will need to

be extra diligent about watering if you plant

them during the heat of summer. Most

plants and trees can be planted in late win-

ter through fall, depending on your hardi-

ness zone and hard frost dates. If you do

plant during the heat of summer you will

need to be extra diligent about watering.

See WISE WATERING for more details.

How To Plant

Dig a hole about twice the size of the con-

tainer, and loosen the roots. Remove any

tags or wires and position the plant in the

hole. Fill the hole with soil, pausing about

halfway full to reposition the plant if nec-

essary. Unless the soil is very poor, do not

add compost or other organic material to

the hole.

How To Water

Water the plant, first moistening the soil,

then soaking it well. You may need to do this

every day for the first week or so, then grad-

ually wean the plant off of frequent water-

ing so it develops a nice, deep root system.

You will likely need to water the plant at

least once a week during its first season

in your garden, but once established, most

shrubs will do well without watering.

HOW AND WHEN TO PLANT

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HOW AND WHEN TO PLANT HOW AND WHEN TO PLANT

TexasLouisiana

Arkansas

Missouri

Illinois Indiana Ohio

Michigan

Wisconsin

MinnesotaNorth

Dakota

SouthDakota

Montana

Wyoming

Colorado

New MexicoArizona

Utah

Idaho

Washington

Oregon

California

Nevada

AlabamaMississippi

Tennessee

Kentucky

Florida

Alaska

Hawaii

Georgia

South Carolina

North Carolina

Virginia

Maryland

Rhode Island

Massachusetts

Delaware

New Jersey

Conneticut

New Hampshire

Vermont

WestVirginia

Maine

New York

Pennslyvania

Oklahoma

Kansas

Nebraska

Puerto Rico

1a

1b

2a

2b

3a

3b

4a

4b

5a

5b

6a

6b

7a

-51.1 to -48.3

-48.3 to -45.6

-45.6 to -42.8

-42.8 to -40

-40 to -37.2

-37.2 to -34.4

-34.4 to -31.7

-31.7 to -28.9

-28.9 to -26.1

-26.1 to -23.3

-23.3 to -20.6

-20.6 to -17.8

-17.8 to -15

-60 to -55

-55 to -50

-50 to -45

-45 to -40

-40 to -35

-35 to -30

-30 to -25

-25 to -20

-20 to -15

-15 to -10

-10 to -5

-5 to 0

0 to 5

Temp (F) Zone Temp (C)

Know Your Zone

What does that mean? Zones are climate regions estab-lished by the United States Department of Agriculture to give an indication of plant hardiness, or how resilient it is to degrees

of cold within a given range based on average minimum temperatures. There are 19 Zones divided by ten degrees into a and b. Thus, in Fahrenheit, Zone 1a in far north Alaska is minus 60 to minus 55, while 1b is minus 55 to minus 50. In Puerto Rico, the lowest average tempera-

ture is determined to be 70 degrees in Zone 19b.

It is a fascinating map to look at and understand, and because it is now interactive, just tap in your ZIP code to get the Zone for your area. Bear in mind, this information is general in nature; local conditions can create microclimates and

the map dates from 2012. In the past few years

climate has changed globally.

The American Horticultural Society also provides gardeners with a Heat Zone map based on average regional high temperatures. Check your zone by visiting http://www.ahs.org/gar-dening-resources/gardening-maps/heat-zone-map, where you will also find a link to the Har-

diness Zone map and other valuable resources.

Local independent nurseries generally focus on stocking plants that are suitable for your zone. Plant tags, too, often list a zone-hardiness range, such as zone 5 to 7. In general, the lower number tells you a plant’s tolerance to low temperatures without protection. In hot climates, the upper number indicates a plant’s ability to endure the stress of a drought or extreme heat.

Presented By

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One of the most amazing

things about plants is that

they make their own food

through the process of pho-

tosynthesis. Though many

people like to refer to fertilizer as “plant food,”

fertilizer is more like a vitamin supplement;

the actual sugars and carbohydrates (in other

words, the “calories”) that plants need to live,

they manufacture themselves internally. Pho-

tosynthesis takes place within the leaves of a

plant, and sunlight is the driving force behind

this crucial life-process. All plants need some

light to remain healthy and vigorous, but be-

cause of the varied environments throughout

the world – forests, prairies, deserts, and jun-

gles – there are plants that thrive in blazing,

relentless sun, and those that prefer the cool,

dark conditions deep in a rainforest.

To help gardeners understand how to pick the

right plants for the light conditions in their

yards, books, magazines, and plant tags de-

scribe a plant’s preferred exposure as “full

sun,” “part sun” or “full shade.” In general, full

sun means a plant needs a minimum of 6 (and

ideally 8 or more) hours of bright sunlight each

day. Part sun means 3-6 hours of sun each day;

the term “part shade” is often interchangeable

with “part sun,” though sometime word choice

on the plant tag can indicate that the plant pre-

fers a slightly sunnier or shadier site. Partially

sunny or shady sites may get direct sun for just

a short but concentrated period, or they may

have an hour here and there of sun throughout

the day. Another possibility is that the site gets

filtered light throughout the day. This is espe-

cially common in areas where there are many

deciduous trees. Finally, full shade, or simply

“shade,” means fewer than 3 hours each day.

Shady sites occur under dense canopies of ma-

ture trees, especially evergreens, or when deep

shade is cast by a nearby building.

When a plant tag indicates more than one

light preference, for example, full sun and part

shade, this can mean two things. One, that the

plant will tolerate both types of conditions, so

is relatively flexible in its preferences. In most

cases, a plant that tolerates some shade will

require a bit more water if it is grown in full

sun, especially for the first season or two af-

ter planting. Two, that the plant prefers full sun

in cooler climates but requires some shade in

warmer ones. Most plant tags are the same,

whether a plant is being sold in Texas or Toron-

to, so warm climate gardeners should usually

SUNSHINE AND SHADOWS

SUNSHINE AND SHADOWS

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SUNSHINE AND SHADOWS

plan on giving a plant some shade, especially

during the hottest part of the day. Shopping at

a local garden center will ensure you get the

advice you need to grow a plant successfully in

your area.

Though a plant will perform poorly if light con-

ditions are not ideal, it is possible to get it back

on the path to beauty by transplanting it to

more appropriate conditions. Here are some

signs that signal that the plant isn’t happy

where it is growing:

Signs a plant isn’t getting proper sun:

- Growth is tall and spindly; the plant appears

to be “stretching”

- Stems are weak and floppy

- The plant flowers very little or not at all

- Leaf and/or flower color is dull and muddy

Signs a plant is getting too much sun:

- Leaves are yellow or washed outlooking,

often with brown edges

- Flowers don’t last long or develop brown

edges shortly after opening

- The plant wilts frequently and is difficult to

keep watered

Plants that are sited in their preferred location

will look better and be lower-maintenance, so it

pays to do a bit of research, read labels careful-

ly, and observe your plants for signs that they

aren’t performing as well as they ought to.

KNOWYOUR SITE

Armed with the broad knowledge of your

soil type and climate zone, the next most

significant principle is to be familiar with the

condition garden.

Gardening, remember, is not an exact sci-

ence: Many plants have a specfic cultural

preference while others are adaptable and can

be happy just about anywhere you place them.

It Starts with Soil

Presented by American Horticultural Society

Soil pH is a key piece of information to have

about your site, referring to the scale of mea-

surement indicating the degree to which the

soil is acid, alkaline, or neutral; 6.8 to 7 is “near

neutral”, above that, the higher the number

the more acid the soil (most often found in

high-rainfall, moist temperate climates), below,

the lower the number, the more alkaline the soil

(most often found in low-rainfall, semi-arid re-

gions). There are easy-to-use testing kits avail-

able for home use, or you can send a sample

for testing to your local horticultural extension

agency.

“I’m always looking for “planting opportunities” to grow

something unexpected. A sheltered, south-facing wall

warmed all day by the sun will provide a good planting place

for something that might not make it through winter in the

open garden. Meeting the challenges of gardening is part of

the fun.” – Ethne Clarke

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Soil Physics

Presented by American Horticultural Society

A soil is characterized by the parent material

from which it was derived, as influenced by cli-

mate, topography, time, vegetation, and culti-

vation. Its texture is determined by the relative

amount of variously sized particles: sand, silt,

and clay. These traits are unlikely to change sig-

nificantly from year to year unless you import

soil from outside the garden area. Soil struc-

ture—how these particles are arranged and

grouped—influences porosity, water holding

capacity, drainage, and gas exchange.

Many home landscapes include more than one type of soil. “It’s not all that uncommon

to find four or five different soil types on the

same heavily landscaped property,” says Paul

Wagner, manager of Soil Foodweb, New York.

KNOW YOUR SITEKNOW YOUR SITE

The introduction of foreign soil or organic mat-

ter, grading for new construction, compaction,

mulching, and tilling all influence the physical

condition of the soil.

Assessing the organic matter content of

a soil can reveal a great deal about both

its physical and chemical condition. “Soil

organic matter analysis can be an expensive

and time-consuming test for many labs, but it

is a key component in nutrient cycling and in

determining soil nutrient and water holding

capacity,” says Hoskins, who considers the test

well worth any additional charge if it is not part

of the routine package. It may also provide a

clearer picture of a soil’s nitrogen, supplying

capacity than a direct test for nitrogen, he

says. “Most gardeners can infer an adequate

nitrogen supply from an optimum organic

matter content, provided they have achieved

it by using animal manures and good quality

compost,” says Hoskins.

The end product of organic matter decomposi-

tion is humus, which contributes to soil particle

aggregation, the gluing together of individu-

al soil particles that improves soil structure.

Because it carries a negative charge, humus

also acts as a sponge to hold positively charged

nutrients, preventing them from leaching out

of the soil.

When to Test

It’s always a good idea to test the soil in a new

garden, and for any area where plants are not

growing well. Never add lime or sulfur to adjust

the pH without first testing your soil, because

this can compound a problem. A soil test pro-

vides a snapshot of the soil at a given moment

in time, so if you make major changes to the

soil, such as adjusting the pH, annual tests are

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KNOW YOUR SITE

advisable to track the changes.

When performed and interpreted careful-

ly, soil tests identify problems and suggest

amendments and cultural practices that lead

to a healthy, well-balanced soil environment in

which your plants will flourish.

Using Fertilizer Effectively

Although applying nutrients is important for

healthy plant growth, it should be done prop-

erly to maximize its effectiveness and to avoid

environmental damage. Whether you use natu-

ral or synthetic sources of fertilizer, you should

first have your soil tested to determine your

fertilizer needs so that you know exactly which

nutrients are in short supply. The test will also

indicate your soil reaction (pH) and whether

it needs to be adjusted. If your pH is too high

or too low, it can cause nutrients to become

chemically bound so that, even though they

are present, they are unavailable for plant use.

Nutrient needs vary somewhat among differ-

ent plants both in amounts and timing. Know

the needs of the plants you plan to grow before

you select or apply your fertilizer, and be aware

of common nutrient deficiency symptoms. For

example, tomato plants are heavy feeders. If

they don’t get enough nitrogen, lower leaves

begin to yellow. Never apply more fertilizer

than recommended.

Most natural fertilizers take time to break

down, so work them into the soil in advance of

planting or active growth. Subsequent applica-

tions can be made by topdressing with dry

formulations. Maintaining a continuous supply

of organic material such as compost will help

sustain a balanced soil environment that is con-

ducive to healthy plant growth.

KNOW YOUR SITE

A Living System

The soil environment is a living system that

supports plants both physically—providing

anchorage for the above ground growth—and

nutritionally. While using synthetic fertiliz-

ers may be more convenient and less expen-

sive in the short term, these products may

cause significant imbalances in soil and water

ecosystems in the long term. Instead, aim for

sustaining a healthy soil system that minimiz-

es environmental impact while maximizing

garden results.

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Soil types and amendment tips:

Clay soil. Clay particles are the smallest component in soil, less than .002 mm in size. These particles clump together to make a heavy, sticky, water-retentive growing medi-um. There is little air in clay soil, water is ab-sorbed slowly and drains slowly, so plant roots are either starved or drowned. To improve clay soil, add organic matter: compost, plant-ing mixes or well-rotted manure. The organ-ic matter enhances the soil’s ability to hold oxygen and enables water to move through it more freely so that plant roots and the soil microbes can work together in harmony. Fine-ly-crushed rock worked into clay soil will also

help to improve drainage.

Sandy soil. Sandy soil holds few nutrients because the sand particles do not adhere together. Water drains through quickly taking

any available nutrients with it, leaving plants poorly irrigated or nourished. Again, the best amendment is compost and well-rotted manure or vegetable matter material. This pro-vides and stores essential nutrients for plants, and also helps hold moisture in the plant’s root zone. You can improve sandy soil over time with annual applications of 3 to 4-inch layers of organic compost on the top of the soil.

Loam. This is the gardener’s dream; rich, fluffy, moisture-retaining, microbe-friendly and easy to work. Loam is a balanced combi-nation of sand, silt, clay and vegetable mat-ter (such as decomposed leaves, bark and manure). Not only does loam readily absorb water, its greatest attribute is that loam retains moisture and nutrients that are then readily available to plants making for healthy, vigorous growth.

KNOW YOUR SITEKNOW YOUR SITE

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A GOLDEN RULE TO GARDEN BY

Sun Exposure

The prime principle to adhere to for success-

ful gardening is “suit the plant to the site.”

And the advice given in this guide will help

you along the way.

Don’t be misled: Some advise that it is possi-

ble to amend soil to create acid, or alkaline,

conditions. But it requires a lot of amend-

ments applied regularly, and so is expensive

and ultimately doomed to failure. Work with

what you have.

When a plant tag reads “full sun,” it gener-

ally refers to 6 hours or more of sunlight;

“shade” means a plant can grow with fewer

than three hours of direct sunlight. In be-

tween is “part sun” or “part shade,” which

means a range of 4 to 5 hours of sun dai-

ly. Note that afternoon sun is stronger than

morning and can be harsher on plants. Seek

out and cultivate plants that will appreciate

what you have to offer. It makes them and

you happier in the end.

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GARDEN TOOLS FOR HEAVY WORK

Selecting the Right Tools:

The best long-handled tools for planting

will have smooth, close-grained wooden

handles made of American ash, sturdy

fiberglass or all-steel. Handles should be

closely fitted and securely attached to

the head of the tool. This is a stress point

when the tool is in use, so pay particu-

lar attention when comparing, looking for

any signs of looseness or other inherent

weakness in construction. When selecting

a shovel, look for one that has a riveted

head-to-handle connection or is welded.

SS

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SF

79

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AS

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MAX

Some tools have been treated to have non-

stick surfaces, others have stainless steel

“working parts”; these are the sorts to look

for as the soil will be less inclined to stick to

the tool-head as you work, making for easier

more efficient digging. They are also less in-

clined to rust. Tools made with heavy-gauge,

forged, tempered steel blades or tines should

be coated or painted to prevent rust.

Bear in mind, too, that the heavier the busi-

ness end of a digging tool, the less work you

have to do as the weight of the spade or

shovel head will help to drive it into the soil.

And a long handle helps to leverage the soil

as you turn it.

GARDEN TOOLS FOR HEAVY WORK

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Shovel or spade? or both?

There’s a difference, so avoid using the

terms interchangeably. A shovel has a

long handle, a large blade (sometimes

called the scoop) and either a pointed end

or a flat end. The former is best for large

digging projects in the landscape, such

as preparing planting holes for trees and

shrubs, or prepping a bed or border for

planting; the later for shifting (shoveling)

gravel, compost or other soil materials.

A spade has a shorter handle and a small-

er blade that is most often flat not scooped,

but like a shovel can be either pointed or

flat ended. The pointed blades are good for

working in places where surrounding plants

have created a matrix of roots that must be

sliced through, for breaking up the bottom of

planting holes, and for working in compost.

SHOVEL OR SPADE? OR BOTH? SHOVEL OR SPADE? OR BOTH?

Flat-edged spades are useful for working

in loose friable soil as found in established

vegetable gardens.

In either case, choose one that has a blade

with a turned edge or step along the top

edge where your foot rests when digging.

Not only will it protect your instep, it will also

aid stability while digging.

Other useful heavy-duty digging tools in-

clude a drain shovel with a long, rounded and

slightly cupped blades. Typically used to dig

deep, narrow trenches, such as for installing

drainage tiles or irrigation lines, this tool can

tackle heavy clay soils.

SS

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SS

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SS

62

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SS

63

010

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Fork it over

Sturdy garden forks come in several guis-

es, from tough-tined digging forks to slen-

dy hay forks with a few delicate tines.

For planting, the heavy digging fork is

needed for preparing new ground and

then breaking up clods of soil as you go.

A short-handled border fork, or spading

fork, is the partner to a border spade.

Use it to backfill planting holes, or to lift

and divide plant clumps as the garden

matures. A wide-tined manure fork is also

extremely useful for forking mulch on

to flowerbeds and for turning compost

heaps. The best-made garden forks are

forged from one piece of tempered steel,

resulting in high-performing, durable tines.

The best-made garden forks are forged

from one piece of tempered steel, resulting

in high-performing, durable tines.

FK

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FK

72

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5

“I measure mine against my side: if the top of the han-

dle is slightly higher than my waist, it is a good fit. ”

– Ethne Clarke

Useful Extras

A swan-neck draw hoe and a three-

pronged cultivator are necessary aids

to weeding and keeping the surface soil

open and friable, but also free of weed

seedlings. Choose a hoe with a tempered

steel, sharpened blade edge, which will cut

through weeds on the surface easily; its

pointed corners can also be used to draw

drills in prepared soil for seed sowing.

The handle should fit securely into a sin-

gle-piece socket design to prevent mois-

ture from damaging the handle. Hoes are

also available for specific jobs in the gar-

den including raking, scraping, grubbing

and tamping. Remember, a hoe is NOT a

digging tool.

A cultivator has a narrow head with one,

three or four curved prongs.

FH 70000

CV 60064

PM 74020

FORK IT OVER USEFUL EXTRAS

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The toughest tasks, like breaking up com-

pacted, hard-as-concrete soils, or land

riddled with rocks, a pick mattock is a

good option. It has two ends, each for a

different purpose: The wide “mattock”

blade breaks up dense, heavy soils; the

pointed “pick” end can fracture rock and

concrete. Choose a mattock made from

forged, tempered steel with a wood or

fiberglass handle, the end of which should

connect tightly through the head of the

metal eyehole of the tool. This is a heavy

worker, and not a tool you will find use for

everyday.

“I find three prong cultivator is the most useful in the

garden getting between plants rather than into them.

Also great for loosen soil and break up clumps of roots

or weeds. They are available with long or short handles,

and even with extendable handles. Choose the one that

fits you best. I quite like the extendable sort as it is

so adaptable.”

– Ethne Clarke

GARDEN TOOLS FOR LIGHT WORKUSEFUL EXTRAS

Garden tools for light work

Although the tools described above are

used with your hands, and are there-

fore hand tools, the term generally

describes the sort of small tool you would

use for fine-tuning the planting. You will

need several trowels like the Corona

ComfortGEL® CT 3214, as they come in

handy for all sorts of planting projects.

The best of these short-handled planting

tools are made from stainless or tem-

pered steel. The sides of the blade should

be curved upward to allow for scooping

soil and holding loose material. The ends

of the handles on some trowels like the

ComfortGEL®, are cushioned and this

can be a real advantage when you have

have quantities of annuals or bulbs to

plant. This saves injury to the base of your

“Garden hand tools are a must for popping individual small

plants or bulbs into prepared garden beds. It’s the kind

of garden you tend to on your knees with the sun on

your back and smell of fresh-tilled soil in your nose.

These are the artist tools so choose them carefully and

tend them well.” – Ethne Clarke

RED

CT 3214

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Tools are an investment so it makes sense

to take good care of them, keeping them

clean of debris and rust free. Here are the

basic toolcare guidelines to follow when

cleaning tools after use and for storage:

1. Clean tools after each use.

2. Wipe handles, blades, forks and edges with

a clean cloth after use. Gently scrape away

any clods of soil, mud, or debris.

3. Clean well using a soft damp cloth with a

dilution of Lysol® or Pine Sol®.

4. To disinfect the tools use rubbing alcohol or

alcohol wipes to avoid spreading disease from

plant to plant. DON’T USE BLEACH. Studies

have shown that some cleaners can causing

pitting or discoloration to metal tool parts.

5. Sharpen tool edges with a file or sharpening

stone meant for the job. Shovel blades, too,

should be periodically sharpened to improve

digging efficiency.

6. Lubricate wooden handles and blades as

needed by coating them with a light oil (ma-

chine oil or vegetable oil).

7. Store tools in a secure, dry location, that can be kept locked if there are chil-dren about.

TOOL CARE GARDEN TOOLS FOR LIGHT WORK

digging hand and shoulder as you repeat-

edly drive the tool into the ground, loose

though the soil may be. The blades of some

trowels are marked with a ruler that is

useful to gauge the depth of your hole to

enable planting at accurate depths – this

is especially useful when planting bulbs.

ComfortGEL® trowel also features a bag

ripper that is helpful for easily opening

soil bags.

A hand fork or cultivator, complements the

action of a trowel, and can be used to

loosen the soil before troweling in a plant,

to loosen weeds for removal, to work in

a top-dressing of compost and fertilizers.

You might also want to select a small,

hand cultivator. It works like a claw.

A weeder like the ComfortGEL® CT 3254 is

ideal for removing tap root weeds such as

dandelion. Its sharpened prong helps pen-

etrate the soil and serrated edge helps cut

through surrounding roots, removing the

complete weed, root and all.

CT 3254

CT 3254

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SAFETYGUIDELINES

Keep gardening tasks safe and enjoyable

by taking preventive measures. First and

foremost, use the right tool for the job and

wear comfortable clothing. Other sugges-

tions include;

• Minimize potential muscle strain and sore-

ness by stretching arms and back before you

begin gardening.

• Alter your activities so that you use a vari-

ety of muscle groups instead of doing

repetitive tasks. Take a short break at least

once per hour.

• Drink plenty of water to remain hydrated

and avoid working during the hottest part of

the day.

• To minimize the risk of injury, always use

eye protection.

• Gardening gloves and sturdy shoes or

boots will protect your hands and feet

while planting.

• When digging and planting, bend at the

knees and hips. Use an erect body posture

when working at ground level or when using

long-handled gardening tools such as hoes,

spades and rakes.

• Be careful not to overextend elbows or wrists

while working with tools.

• Use lightweight yet sturdy tools that are

properly maintained and appropriate for

the job at hand. Shorter tool handles provide

greater leverage control. Longer tool

handles provide greater power and are best

for jobs which require full body motion.

• Always observe generally accepted rules of

safety and common sense.

• Call before you dig—check for underground

wires, water pipes and gas lines.

• If you are unsure about how to complete a

project or think it’s more than you can do,

it’s best to seek a certified professional.

SAFETY GUIDELINES

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WISEWATERING

Even if a plant is considered “drought tolerant,”

it will require regular irrigation until it is estab-

lished by the second or third growing season.

Here are some guidelines to remember:

• Group plants together according to their

water needs. Moisture-loving plants will thrive

in a community with other plants that require

the same level of irrigation; the same is true

of plants that prefer a free-draining, dry site.

• Water slowly, deeply and infrequently rather

than often and sparsely. Water early in the

day before the sun is high, or late in the day in

hot dry climates. Don’t rush watering – it

won’t reach the roots, and don’t water at

midday – it will evaporate.

• Roots move toward moisture, so be sure to

water both the plant’s original root ball and

the soil around it—helping ensure that roots

move out into the native garden soil. It is

important to water deeply to penetrate down

into the root zone as light watering will only

encourage roots to grow toward the

surface of the soil where they’ll be vulnerable

to drought and disease.

• After the first year or once the plants are

clearly well-established and growing strong-

ly, reduce the frequency of watering; you want

the roots to seek deeply for water, rather than

lie around on the surface waiting for their daily

water dose.

WISE WATERING

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PLANT ROOT SYSTEM

Roots deserve more cred-

it than most of us give

them. Because we don’t

see them aside from a few

brief moments at planting

time, we never think about what an import-

ant role they play in plant health. Roots an-

chor the plant in the ground. They absorb all

the water that a plant needs, and they take

up nutrients from the soil to fuel vigorous

growth. If something looks amiss about the

above-ground portion of a plant, chances

are, you’ll find the source of the problem by

looking closely at the soil and roots.

The root system the plant has when you buy

it is essentially its “head start” on getting

established in its new home, and plants with

minimal or weak roots will take that much

longer to start looking their best in your

landscape. When shopping for plants, look

for the roots to fill the container or the ball of

soil and be well-distributed throughout the

volume of potting mix or soil. Roots should

look fresh and springy, not withered and dry

nor wet and rotted. Often, plants that have

spent a long time in the same container may

become “root bound”; that is, so full of roots

they become difficult to keep watered. Root

bound plants can still grow into good land-

scape specimens, but you’ll want to break

the roots apart a bit, coaxing them out of

the spiral imposed by the container so they

spread out in their new site. Balled and bur-

lapped trees should have any spiraling roots

gently untangled as well.

Though it may seem obvious, it’s import-

ant to remove all container material before

planting: burlap, rope, twine, wire cages,

fabric, wood baskets, and of course, plas-

tic containers. A number of plants, from

vegetables and herbs up to small trees and

shrubs, are now being sold in “plantable”

pots. These are made of a biodegradable

material like peat, coir, or fabric, and are de-

signed to minimize any shock to the roots at

planting time. Not all materials biodegrade

quickly, though, and their presence in the

soil may rob water away from the root ball

and delay plant establishment. Especially if

you live in a dry climate, it’s advisable to re-

move these materials too. If you leave the

plantable pot in place, you should thorough-

ly wet the material before planting to kick-

start decomposition.

PLANT ROOT SYSTEM

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Perfect Planting

The quality of the planting site or hole de-

termines the success of the plant in the fu-

ture, so don’t be tempted to cut corners on

this crucial step. Aim to make the hole twice

as wide as the container or root ball, which

allows plenty of room for you to work in.

Though opinions differ on amending the soil

at planting time, it is generally best to plant

only into your native soil. If you do wish to

add compost, it must be thoroughly incor-

porated into the hole and the backfill, so you

will need to make the hole larger to accom-

plish this. After planting, the plant must be

watered lavishly. The best way to do this is

to put a hose on a light trickle, place it on the

perimeter of the root ball, and leave it to run

an hour or two, moving its location to vari-

ous points around the site during this time.

Whenever possible, plant on cloudy days or

early in the morning to minimize the roots’

exposure to light, heat, and air.

Once planted, it’s your responsibility to fos-

ter vigorous root growth. A plant will only

put on as much top growth as its root sys-

tem can support, so to see an increase in

flowers, fruit, or foliage, you have to first

increase the root mass. Moisture is key: it

makes it physically easier for the roots to

grow, and it ensures that the delicate root

tips won’t dry out and cease growing. The

root ball and its surrounding should not be

allowed to dry out completely during the en-

tire first season. A 2-3”(5-7.6 cm) thick layer

of shredded bark mulch over the entire root

zone will keep the roots cool and conserve

moisture, making this critical period easier

on both you and the plant.

PERFECT PLANTING

Whole bed or one hole at a time?

Planting in large areas, like a mixed shrub

and perennial border, aim to prepare the en-

tire bed, incorporating any soil amendments,

removing all perennial (and other) weeds,

then water and let it settle for three to four

days before adding any plants. This will en-

couage the roots of the new plants to spread

out into their new environment rather than

sulk in their private planting hole and not get

off to a good start. Plants, like people, bene-

fit from community.

Large Bed Planting

“There is an old saying, “Dig a ten dollar hole for a

10 cent plant.” In other words, don’t cut corners when

prepping for planting. The hole should be twice as big

as the root ball, compost and fertilizer should be incor-

porated into the hole and the backfill, and water should

be applied lavishly after planting. And if at all possible,

plant on a still overcast day when there’s moisture in

the air to avoid desiccation of the new plant.”

– Ethne Clarke

PLANT ROOT SYSTEM

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Single-Hole Planting

If you are planting in a large bed or border,

begin by loosening the soil by hand or with a

tiller at least down 8-inches and throughout

the planting area, removing any large rocks.

Amend the soil throughout the entire plant-

ing area with organic compost or fully-com-

posted manure (fresh manure may burn new

plant roots).

If your soil is sandy, mix in 3- to 4-inches of

compost before planting, spreading over the

planting area and mixing in again. If you have

clay soil, choose compost that contains more

woody material, such as a mixture of manure

composted with sawdust or bark. This will

improve drainage conditions. Rake the area

smooth and water it or allow rain to help it

settle for a week or so before planting.

Planting Trees Properly

If you’re thinking about planting a tree, fall

is the best time to do this for most species,

apart from broadleaf evergreens, which

should be planted in spring in temperate re-

gions. Tree planting might seem pretty easy—

you dig a hole, place the tree in it, and fill in

around the roots with soil, right? But a tree

is a long-term investment, so attention to

detail in the planting process will help your

new tree establish more quickly and prevent

problems long into the future.

Background Check

Before going to a nursery, do due diligence

with a good tree reference to make sure you

are choosing a species that is appropriate

for the site you have in mind. Make sure you

know a tree’s ultimate height and spread; a

beautiful tree planted where it lacks enough

room to develop a well balanced canopy in

old age is sure to result in problems down the

line. Plant trees a minimum of 10 feet away

from homes and structures so the roots

don’t cause foundations or walls to heave.

With the exception of a few species that like

“wet feet,” avoid planting trees in low spots

where water tends to collect.

For many of the more common tree species,

several different sizes may be available at

your local nursery. Larger trees cost more,

and generally establish themselves more

slowly, so it may be best to choose one of the

smaller sizes. If you live in a part of the coun-

try that is prone to drought or you have poor

soil, it is advantageous to plant a smaller tree

since it will have a much shorter establish-

ment period. While you might be tempted to

plant a larger tree to give you instant shade

and structure for your landscape, research

has shown that smaller trees often quickly

surpass large specimens planted at the same

time. On the other hand, it’s a good idea to

choose a size that is large enough to with-

stand damage caused by animals or extreme

weather conditions. Generally a tree with a

trunk half-an-inch to three inches in diam-

eter—professionals refer to trunk diameter

as the “caliper”—is a good place to start for

most tree species.

PERFECTING PLANTINGPERFECTING PLANTING

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Finally, be sure you are selecting a healthy

specimen. Check the root ball and avoid

trees that are badly pot bound. Pass on

trees that have a lot of small, upright shoots

coming off the trunk or lower branches—this

indicates stress. And make sure the bark on

the trunk is free of wounds, sunken areas,

or other damage.

Initial Care

When you get your tree home, don’t delay

planting. Start by taking the tree out of its

pot or removing all the twine, burlap, and

wire that might be surrounding the root ball.

Now find the place where the roots meet the

trunk. Potted trees usually have this point

buried below several inches of soil, and

field grown trees often have soil thrown up

against the trunk by cultivators. Carefully

excavate the top layer of the soil until the

main roots that arc away from the trunk are

clearly visible.

If your tree was in a pot, slice through the

bottom of the root mass with an old pruning

saw or sharpened shovel to cut any roots

that have grown in an arc or circle around

the inside of the pot. Don’t be timid—if you

don’t disrupt these roots now, they might gir-

dle (encircle) the trunk, and after many years

of growth kill your tree just as it is reaching

maturity. Professionals often “butterfly” the

root mass of potted trees by cutting the bot-

tom half of the root ball into two flaps that

can be bent away from each other when the

tree is planted.

Now that the root ball of your tree is pre-

pared for planting, dig a hole that is an inch

or two less than the height of the root ball

but several inches wider than the widest di-

PERFECTING PLANTING

mension of the root ball. Loosen the soil on

the edges and bottom of the hole. Place your

tree in the hole and view the trunk from all

sides to ensure that it is not leaning to one

side. Fill in around the root ball with soil that

you removed when you dug the hole, sloping

the fill away from the trunk. Use the pointed

end of a shovel to tamp down the soil and fill

in any air spaces around the roots. You can

also trickle water into the planting hole to

help settle the soil. Before going any further,

confirm that the main roots you exposed are

barely below the surface of the fill soil.

Mulch the tree with two to four inches of

mulch, but don’t place any mulch within six

inches of the tree trunk. Wood chips are one

of the best mulches for newly planted trees

because they don’t bind together into a wa-

ter-repellent blanket as more finely shredded

mulches sometimes can. Disregard what you

may have heard about wood chips robbing

the soil of nitrogen; the surface to mass ratio

is such that wood chips tie up only a small

amount of nutrients at the very surface of

the soil.

Hydrate, Hydrate, Hydrate

Water your newly planted trees regularly

throughout the fall and into winter until the

ground freezes. If you live in an area that

has a mild climate, water your new trees any

time the soil is dry an inch below the surface.

“I don’t recommend adding fertilizer or soil amendments to

the planting hole. Basically, if the tree can’t survive in the

soil you are planting it in, then it’s not a good choice for

the site.”

– Ethne Clarke

PERFECTING PLANTING

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But if your soil drains slowly, make sure you

don’t let the soil around the tree get water-

logged. Once a tree is well established—after

a year or two—you should only need to water

it during extended droughts.

“Unless you are planting in an extremely windy site, I don’t

advise staking because some play in the trunk helps roots

to establish faster. Even if you are placing the tree in a windy

area, make sure the stake supports allow for a little move-

ment of the trunk. Pruning at this time should be limited to

removing any damaged or dead branches.”

– Ethne Clarke

PLANTING ANNUALS, PERENNIALS, ORNAMENTAL GRASSES AND VINES

Perennials are the workhorses of a garden

scheme, valuable for the variety of their

foliage, stature – from groundcovers to

stately grasses – and rainbow-hued flowers

that can be arranged in the garden to create

the most beautiful compositions from spring

to first frosts.

Perennials regrow each year from an un-

derground root system. Over the time, the

root system will expand and the best growth

will appear around the outer edges. At that

point – and it can be in as little as 3 years

in a vigorous grower or more than 5 in a

slow developer – it is advisable to dig up the

plant in the autumn and separate, or divide,

it into several healthy new clumps and replant

(or share with friends!).

“When planting I like to use perennals in groups of

uneven number, flowing them around and through individual

specimen plants. ”

– Ethne Clarke

PERFECTING PLANTING

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PLANTING ANNUALS, PERENNIALS, ORNAMENTAL GRASSES AND VINES

Annuals are plants that experience their

entire life cycle in one year. Often referred

to as bedding plants or “spot color,” annuals

can give gay bursts of seasonal color – pan-

sies in spring, petunias in summer and so

forth – but it is fun to experiment with annu-

al grasses, herbs, even vegetables, tucked

among the shrubs and perennials. You don’t

have to eat kale to grow it, and some of the

purple, frill-leaved varieties are knockout

used with late-summer flowering perennials.

An annual is usually grown from seed, and

completes its life cycle in one season. Leav-

ing annuals to seed into the garden can be

a good thing setting volunteers to come up

in just the right place, or a nightmare that

takes over a planting and enters the cate-

gory “pernicious weed” if you aren’t vigilent

in pulling out unwanted seedlings. Bienni-

als make foliage one season, and flower

the next. Garden centers sell both in 4-inch

pots or in “6-packs”. Some biennials, like

foxgloves are sold in larger pots, so have

sturdy root systems to carry them through

to flowering.

Perennials are best if planted in the autumn

when the soil is warm and moist. Mulch well

to prevent frost-heaving in cold climates.

Annuals are generally put into the garden

after the last frost, although some, like pan-

sies, will overwinter in mild zones.

Most plant tags will indicate a recommend-

ed measurement for spacing annual plants,

but for speed simply use the length of the

trowel head as a measure. Plant in straight

lines only if you intentionally want a formal

look; otherwise dot them about, three here,

five there, one tucked into a corner, so that

PLANTING ANNUALS, PERENNIALS, ORNAMENTAL GRASSES AND VINES

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it appears the annuals have seeded thems

elves prettily into the garden.

Help annuals establish quickly by incorpo-

rating an organic fertilizer into the planting

bed (Use a cultivator or fork to work 8 cups

of fertilizer, such as 2-4-2, into a 100-square-

foot area, or follow package recommenda-

tions). Use a small trowel to dig just the

right size hole for the annual and be sure to

pack the soil firmly around the newly

installed plant.

Here are some guidelines for planting

perennials, ornamental grasses and vines:

• Before planting, fork in a general purpose

fertilizer along with compost or well-rotted

manure into the soil – don’t let it just sit on

the surface.

• Remove the pot and trim damaged roots.

Tease out pot-bound root clumps and

settle them into the planting hole before

backfilling. Water well to firm the plants

into the soil.

Planting Roses

There’s another old gardener’s motto: “You

can’t grow roses in a desert.” Well, actually….

There are roses for most gardens: for exam-

ple, rugosa roses grow well by the sea in san-

dy dunes; hybrid teas and floribundas like a

nice chunky clay soil. You get the picture. All

roses do best if they get full sun for at least 6

hours every day during the growing season.

If roses are your dream, remember the look

and ask rule: check with local garden societ-

ies and reputable nurseries and ask if there

are rose cultivars that are best suited to

your area. You can purchase roses bare root,

packaged in a plastic bag, cardboard box or a

plastic nursery pot. The American Rose Soci-

ety recommends that you select a “#1” grade

rose to ensure that the plant is healthy.

More and more roses are raised on their own

roots, that means they are not grafted, so

any new growth that appears will be true to

the rose you planted. Many hybrid tea and

floribundas, however, are grafted to give

them vigor.

The best time to plant roses is early to mid-

spring (after the last frost), preferably on a

relatively cool or overcast day. You can also

plant roses in the autumn in milder regions

of the country.

As soon as you purchase a rose or receive

one from a mail-order source, remove all the

packing material. Sometimes “boxed” roses

come with labels indicating the cardboard

container can be planted in the ground, but

don’t do this, as cardboard may not degrade

quickly enough to allow roots to spread.

Similarly, it is best to remove a rose from a

peat pot before planting. While peat pots are

biodegradable, they may dry out and pre-

vent moisture and nutrients from getting to

the rose.

Co nta in e r - g rown roses

Most hybrid roses are

grafted to a standard

root stock, usually

from a tough species

like Rosa canina or

similar that will give

vigor to the top-flow-

er-producing growth. Bud Union of Bare-Root Rose

PLANTING ANNUALS, PERENNIALS, ORNAMENTAL GRASSES AND VINES

PLANTING ANNUALS, PERENNIALS, ORNAMENTAL GRASSES AND VINES

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Unless the rose is properly planted and main-

tained, the root stock may take over and

overwhelm the top growth. The key to avoid-

ing this is to use the bud union as your plant-

ing guide:

• In milder regions of the country (Zones 7

to 9), plant so the bud union is visible, just

above the soil surface.

• In colder regions (zones 4 to 6), plant with

the bud union about 2 inches below the

soil surface.

• In extreme conditions, or where it may not

be possible to protect the rose in winter,

you can plant the bud union as deep as 3- to

4-inches below the soil surface.

Bare root roses

As soon as you receive the rose, shake of any

debris and inspect the roots; trim off any bro-

ken or damaged roots – you only want to put

a clean healthy plant in the soil. Then plunge

the roots into a bucket of water overnite to

rehydrate them. Transplant preparations are

available and can be added to the soaking

water, but it’s not strictly necessary.

At planting time, spread out the roots even-

ly in prepared planting hole and carefully

backfill, shaking the plant gently to work soil

among the roots to avoid leaving air pockets.

Tamp down soil and water thoroughly after

planting. Make sure the bud union is properly

positioned below the soil surface.

After planting cover the entire area with

a 1- to 2-inch layer of mulch to help retain

moisture and keep the roots cool.

Books have been written about how to prune

roses, but for our purposes here a few general

principles will get you started.

• As blooms fade or are cut to bring

indoors, make a clean cut above an outward

facing bud.

• Prune away crossing branches to keep the

interior of the plant open.

• Remove any damaged branches, any show-

ing signs of disease.

For in-depth instruction on planting and

growing roses visit the American Rose

Society at www.ars.org.

Planting Conifers and Hedges

The term conifer encompasses woody trees

and shrubs that bear cones and generally

produce needle or scale-like foliage. Most

conifers are evergreen, which makes them

highly desired in the landscape --especial-

ly in snowy winter scenes -- for screening,

for windbreaks and simply for a beautiful

sculptural shape. They can be used as either

specimens in the landscape or as hedges.

Conifers do best in full sun – up to 6 hours

a day; they also like free-draining soil, so

amend heavy soils as described earlier.

Otherwise plant conifers as you would trees

and shrubs.

Hedge growth over several years

PLANTING ANNUALS, PERENNIALS, ORNAMENTAL GRASSES AND VINES

PLANTING ANNUALS, PERENNIALS, ORNAMENTAL GRASSES AND VINES

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PLANTING ANNUALS, PERENNIALS, ORNAMENTAL GRASSES AND VINES

Conifers for hedges

When selecting plants, there are certain

things to look for that indicate quality:

• Be sure to consider both the mature width

and the mature height of hedge plants.

Columnar-shaped conifers, such as American

arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis) or types of

yews (Taxus species), are ideal hedge plants.

Keep an eye on the suggested mature height;

the taller the hedge the more work keeping it

pruned so that it doesn’t become top-heavy

where you can no longer reach, or to com-

pletely dwarf the site.

• In a container-grown plant, it should be

centered in the pot, indicating a evenly-grow-

ing root system. If you begin with young,

well-formed plants where stems and shoots

are growing evenly around the trunk from its

tip to its base, the hedge will grow more fully

and uniformly.

Planting a hedge

Having decided where the hedge is to be sit-

ed, gather up some long bamboo canes as

close to the height of your proposed barrier

as possible. Poke them into the ground every

few feet. Then stand back. Will the hedge do

the job you want it to do when it’s reached

your goal? What about shade? How much will

it cast – you can approximate this from the

length of shadow cast the canes.

Hedge plants should be planted close togeth-

er on a uniform distance taken from trunk to

trunk, referred to as “centers”; the nursery

should be able to advise you. Plant them

close enough to eventually touch but not

crush each other’s branches: overcrowded

plants will eventually suffer die-back due to

poor air circulation and lack of light reaching

the inner branches.

For the first few years, feed a newly planted

hedge in the spring using a high-nitrogen fer-

tilizer, then switching to a general purpose,

slow release as the seasons move on. Keep

the roots well-watered and mulched.

General principles of good pruning for hedges

• Begin clipping back new growth the first

year after planting. You want to encourage

dense growth and this will happen by

removing the growing tips.

• As the hedge grows, make certain that the

bottom is wider than the top, this is called

“batter”, and will ensure that light reaches

the base of the plants avoiding that look of

naked legs some hedges develop when not

given “batter” in pruning.

• Use long-bladed shears to hand-clip a

hedge until it is full-grown and desired

shape and height is reached; then use a

small powered trimmer to make the

work easier.

• Always prune up from the base to the top,

making gentle sweeping cuts. Stand back

frequently to be certain you’ve not gone off

track. Professional gardeners will use a

taut string line pulled across the hedge to

keep a straight edge.

PLANTING ANNUALS, PERENNIALS, ORNAMENTAL GRASSES AND VINES

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CREDITSContact our partners for more information provided in this guide:

American Horticultural Society

7931 East Boulevard Drive Alexandria, VA 22308

(703) 768-5700

ahs.org

Proven Winners

111 E Elm St Ste D Sycamore, IL 60178

(815) 895-8130

provenwinners.com

About Ethne Clarke

Internationally known editor, journalist and lecturer; author of best-selling books on prac-tical gardening and landscape history, cookery and crafts; most recently published is ‘Infinity of Graces: Cecil Pinsent, an English Architect in the Italian Landscape’ published spring 2013 by W.W. Norton, New York and London. Former Editor in Chief, Organic Gardening; Garden Editor, Traditional Home; Contributing Editor, House & Garden.