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Cosmeceuticals are hot and they seem to get hotter by the moment. The actual cosmeceutical category—named to represent a hybrid cosmetic and pharmaceutical

product—didn’t really even exist until the 1980s, and now the global market is set to reach $61 billion by 2020, accord-ing to a report by Research and Markets.

Skincare is the largest category in the sector, followed by hair care, the report states.

There’s an ever-increasing number of products and actives out there, so Practical Dermatology® reached out to top doc-tors to see what they recommend and why.

HeliocareCategory: Sun protection supplementActive Ingredient: Extract of Polypodium leucotomos

“It is the one thing that is essential to my patients with photo-sensitivity/polymor-phous light eruption (PMLE). Without it, I don’t know what they would do. It also is helpful for kids who are out in the sun a bit and for people on vaca-tions where they will be unable to reapply sunscreen effectively.”

Joel Schlessinger, MD, FAAD, FAACSBoard-certified Dermatologist and Cosmetic SurgeonChief Editor, Cosmetic Surgery, Practical Dermatology® MagazinePresident, LovelySkin.com

RESTORSEA PRO skin careCategory: AntiagingActive Ingredient: Aquabeautine XL (INCI: Hydrolyzed Roe)

“Every patient using this product (which has enzyme from salmon roe) says their skin is softer, brighter, and less pigmented. Their complexion is more even and they see less pores. What’s great about this product is that it is in a class of its own, it functions to brighten, but I find this is mainly from enzymatic activity, which is gentle. Any other skin care complements Restorsea PRO. When it was first introduced, I thought where does this fit in, but it has no competitor! It is synergistic and additive. My patients love the foaming cleanser, eye serum, and liquid gold face oil. These all complement laser proce-dures, microneedling, fillers, and facials/peels etc.”

Jason Emer, MDCosmetic and Laser DermatologistThe Roxbury Institute Beverly Hills, CA

TNS Essential Serum, HA-5 by SkinmedicaCategory: AntiagingActive Ingredient/s: TNS complex, APS corrective complex; Hylauronic acid

“It’s a tie between TNS essential serum and HA-5 by Skinmedica. I have been personally using TNS for more than

The Inside Scoop on Cosmeceuticals:

From Top to BottomTop derms dish about their favorite cosmeceuticals, including options beyond wrinkle fighting.

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15 years and have taken my own serial before and afters. My favorite ingredient in cosmeceuticals is hyaluronic acid.”

Vic A Narurkar, MD, FAADFounder, Bay Area Laser InstituteSan Francisco

Neocutis LineCategory: AntiagingActive Ingredient: PSP protein blend including human growth factors, interleukins and cytokines

“We like the Neocutis cosmeceuticals as the growth factor ingredient works very nicely.”

Bruce Katz, M.DDirectorJuva Skin & Laser Center New York City

Alastin Skin Nectar, Alastin Restorative Skin ComplexCategory: Pre- and post-procedure/maintenanceActive Ingredient/s: TriHex Technology

“Skin aging is the result of increased breakdown of collagen and elastin combined with a decrease in the ability of the body to repair itself. A good skin regimen is going to address both of these issues. I like Alastin Skin Nectar and Alastin Restorative Skin Complex, both of which contain a patent-pending tech-nology called TriHex, which has been shown to enhance extra-cellular matrix recycling. Think of it as clearing out damaged collagen and elastin to create an optimal environment for natu-ral skin regeneration through the production of healthy col-

lagen and elastin. Alastin Skin Nectar is anhy-drous, which makes it ideal for immediate post-procedure application, as it doesn’t cause any stinging or burning. I recommend patients use the Skin Nectar for two to six weeks prior to treatments such as laser resurfacing, chemical peels, and energy-based rejuvena-tion procedures. I typically continue the Skin Nectar for a few weeks post procedure before changing the patient to Alastin Restorative Skin Complex for maintenance. Extracellular matrix optimization is truly a new paradigm in the approach to skin care and skin wellness. “

Vivian Bucay, MDBUCAY Center for Dermatology and Aesthetics San Antonio, TX

Sisely Black Rose Cream Mask, Sisely Eye Contour MaskCategory: SkincareActive Ingredient/s: Black rose, padina pavonica, and alkek-engi calyx extracts; Ginkgo biloba, Arnica, Horse Chestnut, Linden blossom

“I have been traveling a ton and Sisely Black Rose Cream Mask and Sisely Eye Contour Mask keep me from looking dehy-drated and shriveled up. Both are instant treatments, which should be applied for 10 minutes followed by gentle removal of excess cream. I love them and often use them overnight. Both hydrate the skin and reduce fine lines and wrinkles beautifully. I also love them before make-up application. “

Michelle F. Henry, MDDermatologistLaser & Skin Surgery Center of New YorkNew York City

Product: DefenAgeCategory: AntiagingActive Ingredient: Repair Defensins, a patent-pending peptide complex

“DefenAge stands out in the saturated growth of the anti-aging industry due to its focus on molecular speci-ficity as the science behind the skincare is to stimulate

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one locus of stem cells. These stem cell are found in the hair follicles. One particular stem cell locus called LGR6+, is responsible for renewal of skin cells lost to trauma and replacement of dead cells as well as being responsible for generating the entire epidermal cell line during embryonic life. Aging cells may have reduced function and contain mutations. Other growth factors stimulate these ‘tired cells’.

DefenAge products contain synthetic copies of the body’s natural defensins, which are secreted by neutrophils after trauma to turn on this stem cell locus to create new cells. These stem cells lay dormant until they are stimulated, thus are “new” and don’t carry mutations or other limitations of function that “tired cells” have. In other words, these defensis peptides trigger the skin’s own repair mechanism, ‘waking-up’ the skin and making appear as it did when we were younger. The prod-ucts’ claim is that you will see a change in your skin’s dullness, wrinkling, and pigmentation. We have found this to be true in most of our patients, and are currently working on a placebo-controlled, double-blind study to prove this.”

Amy Forman Taub, MDMedical Director, FounderAdvanced Dermatology/skinfoLincolnshire, IL

LaseResults LineCategory: Skincare/antiagingActive Ingredients: A blend of antioxidants, exfoliators, AHAs, and PHAs formulated in a vehicle that enhances pen-etration and activity.

“I have consulted for so many cos-metic companies over the years, and nobody was doing it exactly the way I wanted to do it. Many companies had offerings that included some of the technologies I liked, but none combined them in the way I desired for my laser pateints. So, if you want some-thing done… and with the help of my fantastic team, I did it my way. This was how LaseResults was born. The line includes moisturizers, cleansers, serums, peels, sunblocks, and more. The key is how all the ingredients synergize with one another-thus our trademarked slogan … ‘A Symphony

of ingredients, working in Concert.’ It really is all about the combination of ingredients and how they work together.”

Eric F. Bernstein, MD, MSEDirectorMain Line Center for Laser SurgeryArdmore, PA

NeoStrata Foaming Glycolic Wash Category: SkincareActive Ingredients: Alpha-hydroxy acid, glycolic acid, lactobionic acid

“I like exfoliating washes because they enhance the penetration of the next prod-uct that you layer on. The Neostrata wash is unique because it has a traditional alpha-hydroxy acid, glycolic acid, with proven effects on anti-aging, and a new generation polyhy-droxy acid, lactobionic acid, which has similar effects but without the potential irritation. So you get the additive bonus of two potent ingredients to reveal radiant and smoother, hydrated skin, with less potential for redness and flakiness.” n

Jessie Cheung, MDDirectorJessie Cheung MD Dermatology & Laser CenterWillowbrook, IL

Redondo Beach, CA Dermatologist Annie Chiu, MD, discusses why you shouldn’t always judge a cosmeceu-tical by its packag-ing… no matter how pretty it is. It’s important to educate patients about the importance of packaging and ingredients.

Watch now: DermTube.com/video/cosmeceuticals-it-s-all-about-end-results/

NOW PLAYING ON DERMTUBE