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The Human McDowells The Human McDowells An Appreciation An Appreciation of of Those Who Came Before Those Who Came Before Those Who Came Before Those Who Came Before

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The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

An AppreciationAn Appreciationppppofof

Those Who Came BeforeThose Who Came BeforeThose Who Came BeforeThose Who Came Before

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

• Objectives:

– Provide basic information about the human uses of, and impacts upon the McDowells.p

– Communicate the rich heritage of the McDowells.

– Communicate the need to preserve that heritage.

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

Scottsdale185 square miles (118,000 acres)

32 miles north-to-south Central Park

Stagecoach

Preserve57 square miles planned

(36,400 acres)(31% f S d l ' l d )

Park

Jomax(31% of Scottsdale's land area)

Over 15 miles north-to-south

Manhattan I l d

BellIsland

(On same scale as

Preserve)Cactus

613

6

Pim

a

Downtown Scottsdale

Mountains in the

Stagecoach Pass

⌧ G it M t i⌧Little Granite Mountain

⌧Mountains in the McDowell Sonoran

Preserve

Dixileta St

⌧⌧

Brown's Mountain

Granite Mountain

Balanced Rock

⌧ F fi ld M i

Saddle Hill⌧

Cone Mountain

Jomax

Dynamitee a

136

S

⌧ Pinnacle Peak (3140 ft)2600 ft

⌧ i

⌧ Fraesfield MountainReata Pass

Happy Valley

⌧ East End (4067 ft)

⌧ Troon Mountain

McDowell Peak (4034 ft)

Tom's ThumbWindgate Pass (3030 ft)

B ll P (3200 ft)⌧

Bell Road

e

Thompson Peak (3982 ft)

Taliesin MountainTaliesin Overlook (2080 ft)

Bell Pass (3200 ft)1600 ft⌧

⌧⌧

Cactus

Scot

tsda

le

Pim

a

⌧ Taliesin Mountain

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

• Major human activities in the McDowells have included:– Hunting– GatheringGathering– Rudimentary farming & cultivation– Quarrying

Mi i– Mining– Ranching– Pulmonary rehabilitation– Education– Recreation– Residential developmentResidential development

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

• Archaic Hunters & Gatherers (6000 BC to 1st Century AD)

• Upland Hohokam (600 AD to 1200 AD)

• Transitional Period (1200 AD to 1450 AD)

• Yavapai (1450 to Present)

• EuroAmericans (1865 to Present)

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

• Archaic Hunter/GatherersCirca 4500 B C after the– Circa 4500 B.C., after the latest Ice Age

– McDowell area changing from juniper forest and grassland to j p gthe Sonoran Desert we know today

– May have traveled in seasonal i itcircuits

– Brush shelters– Minimal agriculture

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

Australian visitorwith mano atgrinding hole

Cathedral Rock

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

Browns Ranch Rock Shelter

• Identified as a site circa 1987.Workplan de eloped b Tom Wright• Workplan developed by Tom Wright and Greg Woodall in 1996.

• Periodic excavations by volunteers.• Has yielded 8,100 artifacts; 11,000 y

pieces of faunal bone; 1,800 ceramic sherds.

• Base camp for three successive cultures – Archaics, Upland Hohokam,cultures Archaics, Upland Hohokam, Yavapai.

• Located in prime desert habitat for gathering seeds and fruit.

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

• Hunting– Game

• Deer• Bighorn SheepBighorn Sheep• Rabbits• Wood rats• Desert tortoise• Javelina???Javelina???

– Methods/strategies• Driving game• Snares

Deer hunting venuesCopperwynd – Hidden Hills hunting site

– Deer hunting venues• Cliffs and brush near large

washes• Draws near springs• AmbushAmbush• From above, if possible• Along customary trails

between bedding grounds and water

Lost Dog Wash hunting site

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

Quarry Point – Ringtail Trail

• If you kill it, you gotta:– Gut it– Skin it– Scrape the hide

Hammerstone – Quarry Point

p– Separate the meat from the bone– Jerk the meat– Dry the meat– Cure the hide!!

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

HOHOKAM(UPLAND)

Human McDowellsHuman McDowells

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

Riverine Hohokam Culture emerges 100 300 AD– Riverine Hohokam Culture emerges 100 - 300 AD– Riverine population in lower Verde Valley at apex, estimated at 4,000 to 10,000– Riverine population in Salt River Valley at apex, estimated at 50,000– Upland Hohokam Apex 600 AD to 1200 AD

H t / th– Hunter/gatherers– Rudimentary farmers

• Catchments• Flood plains near widenings or mouths of washes (corn, beans, squash, cotton)• Terraces (agave)

– Traders• Conduits between Riverine Hohokam and Sinaguan settlements to the north• Trade goods

– Pottery– Manos & metates– Items from Mexico (Macaws, jewelry)

– Stoneworkers (quarries)Stoneworkers (quarries)– Continue to use rock shelters as base camps – Browns Ranch– Permanent housing evolves from pit houses to pueblos

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

• What did the Hohokam leave behind?– Lithics

• Projectile points• Tools

– Knives– Scrapers– Burins– Axe heads– Mano blanks

– Pottery sherds– Pits (roasting; storage)Pits (roasting; storage)– Baskets– Dwellings– Sleeping circles

Petroglyphs– Petroglyphs– Middens (trash mounds)

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

• Projectile pointsDart points– Dart points

– Arrowheads• Hohokam points are distinct – quite refined

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

• Sometimes they leave behind the remnants of their work – core stones and flakes.

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

• The Hohokam Home Depot….

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

Leftover rock fragments chips and flakesLeftover rock fragments chips and flakesLeftover rock fragments, chips, and flakes…..Leftover rock fragments, chips, and flakes…..

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

• Hammerstones…..

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

• And sometimes they leave behind their mistakes……

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

• …..we can all relate to a bad day at the office….

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

• Pottery sherds – Hohokam “Red on Buff” – 700 AD to 1000 AD?

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

• Pottery sherds Hohokam “Red on Buff”• Pottery sherds – Hohokam Red on Buff –700 AD to 1000 AD?

McDowell Mtns - Interior

Logan Museum – Beloit CollegeLogan Museum – Beloit College

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

• Agave– An important source of carbohydrates– Actively cultivated (terraces)– Roasted in pits (Hornos)

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

• Petroglyphs– Several sites in the McDowells– Extensively vandalized– Represent both Hohokam and

Sinaguan culturesSinaguan cultures

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

• CupulesCupules– Found at several locations

in and near the McDowellsSimilar to ground stone– Similar to ground stone found in other locations around the worldPossibly related to birthing– Possibly related to birthing rites??

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

Gi th i d h lt f i t h i d t l h t d k• Given the improved shelter, farming techniques and tools, what do we know about Hohokam health?

• Life expectancy: 40 years or less• Life expectancy: 40 years….or less.• Dental cavities• Arthritis• Urinary bladder stones• Iron deficiency• “A sample of femoral midshafts from 24 females and 29 males was selected for

analysis…Overall, females experienced a highly significant reduction in percent cortical area of 30 4% compared to a reduction of 12 5% for males While malescortical area of 30.4%...compared to a reduction of 12.5% for males…While males show no significant age change in cortical thickness…the female pattern is both significant and complex…the rate of loss is not constant…95% of the reduction occurs between ages 30 and 40…We interpret this pattern to reflect the cumulative effects of continuing lactation and repeated pregnancy ” -- “Patterns of Age-Related Bone Loss In Aeffects of continuing lactation and repeated pregnancy. Patterns of Age-Related Bone Loss In A Classic Hohokam Population from Pueblo Grande” by Kuzawa, Van Gerven and Sheridan, Univ. of Colorado

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

• The Riverine Hohokam begin to fade around 1400 – 1450• Evidence of Upland Hohokam fades circa 1200 – retreat from the mountains?• The Sinagua retreat into the Verde Valley• The Salado move up the Gila River into the area of present day Globe• What happened?• What happened?

– Alkalinization of the soil – resulting from intense leaching due to canals and agricultural flooding

– Prolonged and repeated drought – 1360 to 1380Cataclysmic flooding 1358/59 and 1380/82– Cataclysmic flooding – 1358/59 and 1380/82

– Social upheaval– Invasion

• Athapascan intrusion (Navajo, Apache)• Pai intrusion (Yavapai)

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

THE YAVAPAITHE YAVAPAITHE YAVAPAITHE YAVAPAI

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

• Yavapai• Yavapai– 1450 to Present– Mohave “Pai” peoples– Pai = People– Yava = Sun (Hava = Water)– Kwevikopaya sub-group ranged

from Camp Verde though Central AZ to Superstitions, Pinals, and

’Brown’s Ranch in the McDowells– Allied with Tonto Apache– Hunters/gatherers– Reused Hohokam quarries, tools, q , ,

hunting sites, roasting pits– Back to using brush shelters

(wabunias)– Historical impact often p

underestimated– Their intransigence and resistance

to U.S. incursions led to the establishment of……

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

FORT MCDOWELLFORT MCDOWELLFORT MCDOWELLFORT MCDOWELL

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

F t M D llFort McDowell– Established as Camp

McDowell in 1865

– Renamed Fort McDowell in 1879

– Needed to protect miners in Wickenburg & Central ArizonaArizona

– Located on the Verde river, north of its confluence with the Salt River, near Sycamore Creek

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

Fort McDowellFort McDowell– Post complement ranged from

200 to 500 cavalry and infantry troopsSoldiers maintained extensive– Soldiers maintained extensive gardens, using reconstituted Hohokam canals for irrigation

– Significant events:• Tonto Basin campaign of• Tonto Basin campaign of

1872 – 1873• Skeleton Cave Battle or

Massacre – 1872• Turret Peak Battle 1873• Turret Peak Battle - 1873• Battle of Big Dry Wash –

1882– Closed in 1890 after being

used as a tourist resort $used as a tourist resort – $ 16/mo for room, board, unlimited quail and rabbit hunting

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

Named for Irvin McDowell (1818• Named for Irvin McDowell (1818 –1885)

• Unlucky Civil War General– Commander of Union forces at First

Battle of Bull Run in 1861– Corps commander under Gen. Pope at

Second Battle of Bull Run in 1862– Considered capable administrator– Assigned as Commanding General of

Army’s Western Division in 1864• Visited Fort McDowell on 6 February

1866– Concerned about poor health of troops– Ordered the development of the post

vegetable gardens• Retired from Army as Major General in

1882• Park Commissioner for City of San

Francisco• Buried at The PresidioBuried at The Presidio

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

• ROSE O’NEAL GREENHOW• Born 1817, Maryland• Married Dr GreenhowMarried Dr. Greenhow• Widowed in 1854, moved to

Washington, D.C.• Frequent guest at White House

functions during administrations of P id t B h d Li lPresidents Buchanan and Lincoln.

• Pro-slavery sympathizer• 1861 – Recruited as Confederate spy• Developed network of 16 operatives

A i d i f M D ll’ t• Acquired info re McDowell’s troop strength and route of march to Bull Run

• Enabled General Joe Johnston to move his 10,000 men early to support , y ppBeauregard’s forces at Bull Run.

• Rose shadowed by Pinkerton’s spies and caught spying in August, 1861

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

• ROSE O’NEAL GREENHOW• Placed under house arrest; continues

to smuggle coded messages to Confederate agents via maid and through upper story windows.Sent to Old Capitol Prison in D C with• Sent to Old Capitol Prison in D.C. with daughter and maid.

Rose and daughter in prison

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

• ROSE O’NEAL GREENHOW• ROSE O NEAL GREENHOW• Exchanged for several Union

prisoners in June, 1862• Met personally by Jefferson Davis as

she is brought through theshe is brought through the Confederate lines.

• 1862 – Smuggled into England aboard a Confederate blockade runnerrunner

• Wrote a book. Toured England enlisting support for the Confederacy.

• 1864 – Smuggled back into North1864 Smuggled back into North Carolina aboard blockade runner pursued by union gunboat

• Rose rowed to shore in a small boat• Heavy surfHeavy surf• Wearing a purse around her neck

with $2,000 in gold coins• Boat capsized

Rose and daughter in prison

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

• ROSE O’NEAL GREENHOW• Body washed ashore next day• Rose given a state funeral in

Richmond• Each year, on anniversary of her

death, the Daughters of the C f d l i l thConfederacy place a memorial wreath on her grave.

• No Rose – No McDowells?

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

• GEORGE WRIGHT• Hero of Pacific Northwest Indian Wars• Hero of Pacific Northwest Indian Wars• Mexican War veteran• Commanding Officer, Department of

the Pacific during the 1860sReassigned as Commanding Officer• Reassigned as Commanding Officer, Department of the Columbia in order to make room for Irvin McDowell

• Died at sea July 30, 1865 when the ship transporting him to his newship transporting him to his new assignment sank off the California coast

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

Fort McDowell hosted many of Arizona’s frontier notables…Fort McDowell hosted many of Arizona’s frontier notables…Fort McDowell hosted many of Arizona s frontier notables…Fort McDowell hosted many of Arizona s frontier notables…

GeneralCrookCrook

Tom HornScout

Al SieberChi f f S t

GeneralChief of Scouts Stoneman

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

And also hosted working stiffs…And also hosted working stiffs…

Infantry fording the GilaInfantry fording the Gila

Apache scoutsp

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

Stoneman Military RouteStoneman Military Route

• Built in 1870 to shorten the trip between Ft. Whipple and Ft. McDowell

• Passed through the McDowell Regional Park• Passed through the McDowell Regional Park• Traces have been found in the McDowell

Sonoran Preserve at Brown's Ranch• Followed the path of a street in Cave Creek

ll d "Milit R d"now called "Military Road"

Fort Whipple (Prescott)(Prescott)

Cave CreekBrown’s Ranch

McDowell Regional ParkFt. McDowell

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

• November, 1861 – Stoneman marriesNovember, 1861 Stoneman marries “vivacious” Mary Oliver Hardesty of Baltimore

• Two sons, two daughters• May, 1870 to May, 1871 Stoneman serves as

Commander, Dept. of Arizona• Retires from military with “disability”• 1882 becomes Governor of California• Mary hated campaigning with “Stony”• Wrote that seeing her husband in the politicalWrote that seeing her husband in the political

arena made her “sick”• 400 acre estate -- Los Robles -- in the San

Gabriel Valley• July 1885 – fire destroys Los Robles; all y y

possessions lost!• Mary learns “Stony” did not insure estate!• 1887 – “Stony” estranged from Mary over an

alleged affair, which she denies• Stoneman eventually leaves California to live

with sisters in Albany and Buffalo• 1894 – Stoneman dies. Sons and wife do not

attend funeral. Pall bearers all civilian.

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

Major General George Crook• Major General George Crook• 1828 (Ohio) – 1890 (Illinois)• Civil War General• ControversialControversial• Hated uniforms and parades• Rode a mule instead of a horse• Wore a pith helmet instead of a hat• Wore canvas and denim instead of a

uniform• Preferred a shotgun to a rifle or pistol• Rugged outdoorsman – often lived likeRugged outdoorsman often lived like

and with Native Americans in the field• Succeeded General Stoneman in AZ• Suppressed Yavapai, Tonto Apache• Hunted down Geronimo in Mexico• Chief Red Cloud of Sioux: “He, at

least, never lied to us.”

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

Crook home inOmaha, Neb.

• Mary Tapscott Dailey born in Moorefield, Virginia, 1842• Marries General George Crook in August, 1865• “The conqueror of Cochise and Geronimo attacked the fair fortress of Mary Dailey’s heart until it

surrendered.”su e de ed• George met Mary at military sponsored hops• Childless marriage• Their domestic life was “seasonal” – George would visit Mary at Crook Crest, their estate in

Oakland, Maryland – usually on his way to/from Washington, DCOakland, Maryland usually on his way to/from Washington, DC• “The periods when Mrs. Crook stayed with her husband at army posts were generally marked by

social events, hops and parties – affairs which befitted the wife of the ranking officer…Crook did not particularly enjoy this type of amusement and would make the best of the situation by gathering his fellow officers for a game of euchre or poker, leaving the entertainment to Mary.”

• March, 1890 -- Crook dies in Mary’s arms of a heart attack after a workout in their Chicago home.• Mary tours Europe and lives confortably on $2,000 per annum pension until September, 1895

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowellsJulia Kirkham DavisJulia Kirkham Davis

• At Camp McDowell September, 1869 –February 1870

• Married Capt. Murray Davis at Oakland, May 1868 when she was 171868, when she was 17.

• 12 month honeymoon in Europe. Son born in London.

• Returned to Oakland – and orders to Camp McDowell.

• He left for San Diego assuming she would stayHe left for San Diego, assuming she would stay in Oakland.

• She packed up the furniture and followed him by ship to San Diego, where she sent a message ashore that there were letters for him.

• He went to the ship expecting letters and e e t to t e s p e pect g ette s a ddiscovered…her!

• He told her to return to Oakland.• She told him she didn’t have enough money to

pay the way back for herself and their furniture –and that she wasn’t staying in San Diego.

• Sooo, at age 18, weighing all of 90 pounds, caring for an infant son, she crossed the Mohave and Sonoran deserts from San Diego to Camp McDowell – on horseback.

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowellsJulia Kirkham Davis

• “Thirst – oh, one does not know what thirst means until one has toiled under such a sun.”

• “ ‘This is Camp McDowell. We have reached our destination.’ I looked in vain…Those low mounds, which looked only like hillocks…were, I discovered, the dwellings. I was finally conducted to my residence – a two roomed adobe hut, with walls and floor without an article of furniture Forwalls and floor…without an article of furniture. For this I had left civilization, comfort, and security!”

• “Packing crates made everything – toilet-table, seats, book case, sofa, wardrobe…”

• “The worst was when my husband had to go out scouting…sometimes they would bring back g y gwounded men…sad to see the poor fellows coming back to die slowly and painfully, so far from home. The poisoned arrows were almost always fatal, and caused great suffering…They knew I would do what I could…I could only make them shabby little crosses the living felt the deadthem shabby little crosses…the living felt the dead were cared for, and the dying knew it would be so.”

• 1875 – Julia contracts a fatal illness. Spends her last three days reminiscing with a woman friend who documents the conversation.

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

• Martha Summerhayes (1846 – 1911)– Born in Nantucket– Educated in Europe/Prussia

M i d J h S h– Married John Summerhayes, a lieutenant in the Army Quartermaster Corps

– Was stationed at Fort McDowell from 1876 to 18781876 to 1878

– Wrote memoir “Vanished Arizona” in 1908 at the insistence of her children

S h t h t k lif i th• So, what was her take on life in the shadow of the McDowells????

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

Th t i f bli f l l tiTh t i f bli f l l tiThe camera presents an image of blissful relaxation…..The camera presents an image of blissful relaxation…..

The Human McDowells

M th ’ b ti hMartha’s observations, however……

“It was by no means an idle post…the life at Camp McDowell meant hard work, exposure and fatigue for this small body of men.”and fatigue for this small body of men.

“I had a glass jar of butter sent over from the Commissary…It had melted, and separated into layers of dead white, deep orange, and pinkish-purple colors.”

“Mr. Thomas said he could not understand why we wore such bags of dresses. I told him specifically that if the women of Fort Whipple (Prescott) would come down to MacDowell to spend the summer, they would soon be able to explain it to him…After p y pa few days spent with us, however, the mercury ranging from 104 to 120 degrees in the shade, he ceased to comment on our dresses or our customs.”

“Four years I have sat here and looked at the Four Peaks ” said Captain Corliss one dayFour years I have sat here and looked at the Four Peaks, said Captain Corliss, one day, “and I’m getting almighty tired of it.”

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

• Adna Romanza Chaffee (1842 – 1914)– Born in Ohio– Enlisted as private in Union Army

during the Civil War– Saw action in 54 battles, including

Antietam, Fredricksburg, and Gettysburg

– Wounded three times– Promoted to lieutenant for conspicuous

bravery during Stoneman Raid– Commanding officer at McDowell as

major, from 1878 to 1882– Led troops at Battle of Big Dry Wash in

18821882– Met and impressed Theodore

Roosevelt during the Spanish American War

– Army Chief of Staff 1904 - 1906 (one of– Army Chief of Staff 1904 - 1906 (one of only two not having graduated from West Point)

– Retired from the Army in 1906 – Died in Los AngelesDied in Los Angeles

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

“In a fight, he can beat any man swearing I ever heard. He swears by ear, and by note, in a common way, and by everything else in a general way. He would swear when his men would miss a good shot, and he would swear when they made a good shot.” ---- Tom Horn

“…the rain soon turned to hail, covering the (battle) ground four or five inches deep, almost burying the dead in an icy shroud. In the words of Lieutenant West, it was so paralyzing that ‘Major Chaffee got so cold and wet he had to stop swearing.’ “ --- Tom Horn--- Tom Horn

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

• John Y. T. Smith– Officer at Fort McDowell– Left Army in 1867– Began haying operation at 40th Street and Washington despite

airplane noise– Phoenix is born!

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells• Patrick and Annie White

Irish immigrants; come to the US prior to the Civil War– Irish immigrants; come to the US prior to the Civil War to escape famine and oppression

– Meet in New York– Pat already a veteran soldier; enlisted in 1853– During Civil War, Pat a POW at Libby Prison for 22

months – Mary prays for his safe return every day– Pat escapes Libby Prison by digging a tunnel with

spoons and cups– Mary decides they must marry – life is short– Pat survives the Civil War; serves at military posts in

Wyoming and California.– Annie supplements income serving as laundress, pp g ,

hospital attendant– They are assigned to Fort McDowell in 1874– Pat retires from Army in 1876 after 21 years of service– Homesteaded 800 acres of land north of Fort McDowell– Provided grain, vegetables and beef to Fort McDowell

P t l h l i ht f th t– Pat also serves as wheelwright for the post– Pat and Annie have 7 children, ages 5 months to 14

years

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

• Patrick and Annie White– Pat dismissed by Adna Chaffee for

drunkenness in 1879– Adna Chaffee accuses Annie of running a

brothel at the homestead– Mid July, 1880 -- Chaffee claims White

homestead is illegally within Fort land; Whites told to leave within 30 daysJuly 31 1880 Pat is away from homestead– July 31, 1880 Pat is away from homestead, clearing out Hohokam canals for irrigation

– Annie has just left the homestead on horseback, headed to Prescott to ask Territorial Governor to intervene with the Army

– Patrol of 12 troopers from Fort McDowell arrive at the homestead, remove the children and some belongings, then burn the house to the ground, destroy the corrals and disperse the livestock

– Patrick White “never again was in his right– Patrick White never again was in his right mind.”

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

• Annie Dowling White• Annie Dowling White– After homestead was burned,

Annie:– Moved family to Tempe (ages 5

months to 14 years)– Nursed Pat during lifelong

depression– Worked as laundress and bakerWorked as laundress and baker– Applied repeatedly for government

compensation until 1914 – denied because homestead not on government land!government land!

Hayden MillHayden Mill

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

• White Homestead Remains• White Homestead Remains– Ground depression– Pottery Sherds and assorted wires– A child’s spoon

A tif t d b l l hi t i B b– Artifacts rescued by local historian, Bob Mason, and by MSC stewards

– Artifacts curated and displayed at the River of Time Museum in Fountain Hills

Ranching in the McDowellsRanching in the McDowells

Edwin Orpheus Brown

Brown’s Ranch – Lower ranch homestead

Edwin Orpheus Brown

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

Beef it’s what’s for dinnerBeef it’s what’s for dinnerBeef…it s what s for dinner….Beef…it s what s for dinner….

Brown’s Ranch– E. O. Brown came to

Scottsdale from Wisconsin inScottsdale from Wisconsin in 1903

– Began ranching in 1916– Purchased the DC Ranch from

Doctor W B CrosbyDoctor W. B. Crosby– Added land over the years

through purchase and debt collection

– Acquired Frazier Spring inAcquired Frazier Spring in Windgate Pass

– 44,000 acres, north and west of the McDowells

– South Ranch at DC RanchSouth Ranch at DC Ranch (Gateway)

– North Ranch at Browns Butte, north of Dynamite Road along Alma School extension

Browns Ranch – Upper ranch house & corrals

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

Beef it’s what’s for dinnerBeef it’s what’s for dinnerBeef…it s what s for dinner….Beef…it s what s for dinner….

Brown’s Ranch– 44 000 acres north and west– 44,000 acres, north and west

of the McDowells– 3,000 to 5,000 head of cattle– Annual cattle drive to the

Tovrea stockyards in PhoenixTovrea stockyards in Phoenix ran down Pima and Scottsdale Roads

– Local men and boys would join as temporary drovers Cattle drivep y

– Harvey Noriega, ranch foreman

– “Chicken Henry,” the ranch cook

Cattle drive

– E.E. “Brownie” Brown and pal/partner, Kemper Marley Harvey Noriega

Ranch Foreman

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

Beef it’s what’s for dinnerBeef it’s what’s for dinnerBeef…it s what s for dinner….Beef…it s what s for dinner….

• P- Bar Ranch15 000 f h– 15,000 acres, east of the McDowells to the Fort McDowell Reservation

– Eventually purchased by y p yMcCulloch Corporation and developed as Fountain Hills

– Ranch house was locatedRanch house was located on site of the current High School

• Pemberton ranchL t d i th f th– Located in the area of the current McDowell Mountain Regional Park

• Ochoa Ranch

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

• Ranching remnants– Foundations– Water Tanks

Wi d P– Cisterns– Windmills/pumps– Corrals

Windgate Passwater trough &foundation

– Fencing– Trails

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

• Ranching remnants– Foundations– Water Tanks

Wi d P– Cisterns– Windmills/pumps– Corrals

Windgate Passwater trough &foundation

– Fencing– Trails

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

• Mining– There are

numerousnumerous “prospects” and quartz “mines” throughout the gMcDowells

– Copperwynd prospects p p

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

G t MiG t MiGateway MinesGateway Mines

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

• The Dixie Mine– Prospects began 1880 – 1890– Main tunnels built by 1917– Vertical and horizontal shafts– Main shaft drops 240 feet– Marginal copper producer– Gold and silver sulphates present– Water in and near mine

• Ground water percolating through bedrock• Natural spring (intercepted)• Contains mild acid – not potable

– Headframe with hoists, pulleys, motors erected sometime prior to WWI– Headframe disassembled and main shaft closed off in 1960s– Mine operated intermittently by several successive investors

• Caution!!!!– Abandoned mines are dangerous!g– Never enter or explore an abandoned mine!

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

Bad Air !!!WHY ONLY THE UNINTELLIGENT ENTER ABANDONED MINES….WHY ONLY THE UNINTELLIGENT ENTER ABANDONED MINES…. Bad Air !!!

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

WHY ONLY THE UNINTELLIGENT ENTER ABANDONED MINES….WHY ONLY THE UNINTELLIGENT ENTER ABANDONED MINES….

Not all is as it seems...Dixie Mine

80 ft

Dixie MineSchematic

60 ft

240 fttotal depth125 ft

60 ft

50 ft drop

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

P l h bilit ti h• Pulmonary rehabilitation – or ranch line shack?

– “Lungers”– The Bonton cabin/homestead– Located on ridgeline near Copperwynd

Resort– William Bonton filed application for

homestead in 1932T bi t t d b– Two room cabin constructed by unknown parties in the early 1930s

– Chimney relocated to the Fountain Hills River of Time Museum as an historic artifactartifact

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

• 1922 – Architect Robert Evans and wife open an inn and tea room at their home on the southern slope of Camelback Mtn.

• 1927 – Evanses expand the inn into a multi-building complex with stables horses etc Itbuilding complex with stables, horses, etc. It becomes the Jokake Inn.

• 1933 – The Jokake School for Girls is opened on the resort grounds. The school is marketed as serving young women of g y grefinement.

• The school features weekend trail rides to a remote facility in the McDowells “comfortably furnished with bathrooms, showers and

d b k ith th b t i dgood bunks with the best springs and mattresses.”

• The remote facility was located at…..

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

…..The Ancala Golf Course!

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

• Frank Lloyd Wright & Taliesin West

– Frank Lloyd Wright (1867 – 1959)The most influential architect of– The most influential architect of the 20th Century

– Constructed the original Taliesin in Spring Green, Wisconsin i 1911in1911

– Visits AZ in 1922 to assist with the design of the AZ Biltmore

– Purchases 600 acres of desert in 1937 and commences development of Taliesin West

– International HQ for the FLW FoundationFoundation

– National Historic Landmark

The Tragic McDowellsThe Tragic McDowells

An AppreciationAn Appreciationppppofof

Loss in the McDowellsLoss in the McDowellsLoss in the McDowellsLoss in the McDowells

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

• Falcon Field in Mesa becomes a training base for British Royal Air Force cadets – August, 1941

• Local women adopt the RAF cadets• Over 60% of the mechanics at Falcon

are women• YOU BEND ‘EM – WE MEND ‘EM• YOU BEND EM – WE MEND EM

The Tragic McDowellsThe Tragic McDowells

• Primary training aircraft was the AT-6 “Texas Trainer”

The Tragic McDowellsThe Tragic McDowells

• Training flights over the Superstitions and the McDowells

• Included flying in close formation

The Tragic McDowellsThe Tragic McDowells

• January 18, 1943, mid-air collision of two AT-6 aircraft over the southern McDowells

B th l il t d b RAF d t• Both planes piloted by RAF cadets

• Cadet Balence survived

• Cadet Robert Lawther and US civilian instructor Robert Hammond diedHammond died

• Mystery: where is the wreckage of the other AT-6?o t e ot e 6

The Tragic McDowellsThe Tragic McDowells

• February 18, 1944• Four B-24 bombers departed Davis-

Monthan Field for high altitude gformation training flight

• Third plane delayed 30 minutes due to mechanical problems

• Caught up with formation SE of• Caught up with formation SE of Phoenix at 15,000 feet

• Formation climbed to 20,000 feet• Third plane out of position at end of

climb – attempted to adjust• Third plane struck second plane, wing-

on-wing• Both planes spun out of control,Both planes spun out of control,

crashing 100 yards apart near Fountain Hills

• 17 fatalities

The Tragic McDowellsThe Tragic McDowells

• Date: August 22, 2000, 8:47pm

• Craft: Bellanca single engine plane• Craft: Bellanca single engine plane

• Occupants: Male AWA commercial pilot and female flight attendant

• Circumstances: Returning from recreation at Hall’s Crossing, Utah, attempting to land at Scottsdale Airportattempting to land at Scottsdale Airport during monsoon dust storm

• Result: Wreckage spotted September 1 SW l f th M D ll t1, on SW slope of the McDowells at 3000 foot level – 200 feet below ridgeline. No survivors.

The Tragic McDowellsThe Tragic McDowells

• Date: January 26, 2003, 8:23pm

• Craft: Piper PA-60 twin engine plane

• Occupants: Husband and wife• Occupants: Husband and wife

• Circumstances: Departing Scottsdale Airport to fly to Santa Fe after visiting terminally ill friend in Scottsdale

• Result: Craft impacted on SW slope of McDowells at 3,710 feet – 100 feetMcDowells at 3,710 feet 100 feet below ridgeline. No survivors.

The Tragic McDowellsThe Tragic McDowells

• August 12, 1967• Henry Schilling, his two sons and brother decide to go on a rock hunting

expedition for material to build a decorative stone wall.• They drive out on the dirt extension of Shea Blvd well past Pima RoadThey drive out on the dirt extension of Shea Blvd., well past Pima Road,

nearly to Fish Point.• They pull off the road and begin to follow a wash, on foot, heading north,

looking for the right rocks.f f S f• 171 feet north of Shea, peering into the wash, they discover a mummified

body under a palo verde tree.• The body is that of a woman wearing a pink, flower patterned dress.• She has been bludgeoned with several large rocksShe has been bludgeoned with several large rocks.• Schilling returns to the service station located at the corner of Scottsdale

Road and Shea, to use the closest telephone. He calls the sheriff’s office.• Sheriff’s investigators arrive and follow a blood trail 171 feet from the

l ti f th b d b k t Sh Bl dlocation of the body back to Shea Blvd.• Sheriff’s investigators contact the Phoenix Police and are advised that the

body may be that of a missing secretary and occasional model……

The Tragic McDowellsThe Tragic McDowells

• It is Carmen Goll.It is Carmen Goll.• 26 years old – single mother of two.• Secretary at law firm of Jennings,

Strouss, and Salmon.• Last seen driving home during the• Last seen driving home during the

early morning hours of July 19th, after a date.

• Scheduled to make a commercial on July 21st.y

• Coroner’s jury brought to site on August 17th.

• Several suspects – none ever indicted.• Site reexamined in December of 1983Site reexamined in December of 1983

by sheriff’s detectives.• Carmen’s mother passed away within

a year of the murder.• Carmen’s young daughter eventuallyCarmen s young daughter eventually

struggled to overcome severe depression, alcohol and drug addictions.

The Mayo McDowellsThe Mayo McDowells

• 1987 - Mayo Arizona presence initiated with the opening of the Clinic.

• 1993 - Samuel C. Johnson Medical Research Building opened.

• 1998 - Mayo Clinic Hospital opened in Phoenix.

• 2004 - Mayo Clinic Collaborative yResearch Building groundbreaking.

• 2005 – Mayo Clinic Specialty Building construction begins in Phoenix.

• The Mayo neighborhood:y g– 344 physicians– 101 residents and fellows– 3,574 allied health staff– 100,000+ patients/year

• The greatest infuence for human good in the shadow of the McDowells.

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

SavingSaving thethe

McDowellsMcDowells

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

Where are Where are wewe headed? What will headed? What will wewe leave behind?leave behind?

90 Population Growth - Scottsdale & Ftn Hills

60708090 Population Growth - Scottsdale & Ftn Hills

250000

300000

405060

EastWest150000

200000

Population

102030

WestNorth

50000

100000

01stQtr

3rdQtr

01950 1960 1970 1980 1990 2000 2003

Year

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

What will our grandchildren see?What will our grandchildren see?What will our grandchildren see?What will our grandchildren see?

Early Steps to Creating the McDowell Sonoran PreserveEarly Steps to Creating the McDowell Sonoran Preserve

1990 Grassroots effort formed McDowell Sonoran Land Trust.

Recognized that, contrary to popular opinion, the mountains were not protected.

1992 MSLT initiated the City of Scottsdale1992 MSLT initiated the City of Scottsdale preservation effort.

1993 City task force recommended forming1993 City task force recommended forming a permanent Commission (McDowell Sonoran Preserve Commission)

1994 Commission recommended asking voters to approve a 0.2% sales tax for 30 years to purchase the land.

Overwhelming Voter Approval of PreserveOverwhelming Voter Approval of Preserve

• 1995 – (64%) – 0.2% preservation sales tax

1996 (73%) S l f b d• 1996 – (73%) – Sale of revenue bonds

• 1998 – (69%) – Use of sales tax in expanded preserve area

• 1998 – (81%) – Charter protection of the Preserve land

• 1999 – (77%) – Sale of revenue bonds for expanded area

• 2004 – (55%) – Voters approve additional 0.15% preservation tax( ) pp p

The Human McDowellsThe Human McDowells

Caretaking of the land is the most important task ahead. As lands are donated or acquired, g p qvolunteers are needed to watch over the McDowell Sonoran Preserve for all of us.

McDowell Sonoran Conservancy Stewards devote their time and effort to walking the trails regularly and taking care of the Preserve’s unique features – archaeological and historical

tif t ld d d t il d d t l t d ildlif Oth t d hi t itiartifacts, old roads and trails and desert plants and wildlife. Other stewardship opportunities include leading hikes into the Preserve and maintaining and constructing trails. For more information on becoming a volunteer steward, please call the MSC at 480-998-7971

ACKNOWLEDGMENTSACKNOWLEDGMENTS• John P. Andrews & Todd Bostwick, Desert Farmers at the River’s Edge, Pueblo Grande Museum & Archaeological Park, Phoenix, AZ• John G. Bourqe, On the Border with Crook, University of Nebraska Press, 1971q , , y ,• Robert Mason, Verde Valley Lore, L. J. Schuster Co., Scottsdale, AZ, 1997• Steven J. Phillips & Patricia Wentworth Comus, A Natural History of the Sonoran Desert, University of California Press, 2000• K. J. Schroeder, editor & contributor, McDowell Mountains Archaeological Symposium, Roadrunner Publications, Tempe, AZ, 1999

– Contributors: Greg Woodall, Tom Wright, Michael Stubing, Douglas R. Mitchell, John W. Hohmann, John T. Marshall, Todd W. Bostwick, C. Scott Crownover, John M. Rapp, Tiffany Clark, et al.

• Jim Schrier, editor, “For This I Had Left Civilization” Julia Davis at Camp McDowell, 1869 – 1870, The Journal of Arizona History• Martha Summerhayes Vanished Arizona University of Nebraska Press 1979• Martha Summerhayes, Vanished Arizona, University of Nebraska Press, 1979• Dan L. Thrapp, Al Sieber, Chief of Scouts, University of Oklahoma Press, 1964• Marshall Trimble, Arizona, Doubleday & Co., Garden City, NJ, 1977• Elaine Waterstat, Commanders & Chiefs, Mount McDowell Press, Fountain Hills, AZ, 1992• Rose Weite, Who Killed Carmen, Clementine Books, 1994

ORGANIZATIONS:

• Arizona State Archives• DesertUSA.com• Frank Lloyd Wright Foundation• Fort McDowell Yavapai Nation• McDowell Sonoran Conservancy

P bl G d M Ph i AZ• Pueblo Grande Museum, Phoenix, AZ• The River of Time Museum, Fountain Hills, AZ• Salt River Pima-Maricopa Indian Community• Wilderness Park Museum, El Paso, Texas

Individuals:

• Bob Freund, Greg Woodall, Bob Mason