The Huma Guide to

PALESTINE

Written and researched by

Ismail Adam Patel & Arwa Aburawa

With additional contributions by

Zeenat Ghumra, Ghazala Caratella, Bilal Badat, Yunus Mohamed, Saleem Seedat

and Mufti Abdur-Rahman Mangera

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Contents

1 Introducing Palestine

1.1 Why go1.2 When to go

ClimatePrices

1.3 How to goGetting thereVisasInsuranceHealth mattersCosts, money and banksTravelling with disabilities and/or pre-existing illnessesTravelling aloneWomen travellingTravelling with children and/or seniorsMajor tour operators

1.4 Where to goMust-see sitesGetting aroundSupporting people and the local economyVisiting neighbouring countriesCommunicationAccommodationCrime and personal safety

1.5 Before you go (Cul-ture)ReligionArchitectureCelebrations and special oc-casions (including festivals)

Checklist of things you can’t leave home without!

1.6 When you go (Direc-tory)Directory of useful numbers and addresses

1.7 When you return1.8 A Brief History of

Palestine1.9 Environment

2 The Guide2.1 Jerusalem

The Virtues of JerusalemJerusalem SitesOrientation and Vital Infor-mationWalls and GatesThe Muslim Quarter

Al-Masjid Al-AqsaDome of the Rock (Qubbat as-Sakhra)Gates, Fountains and Domes in Al-Haram Ash-SharifSouks of JerusalemMadrasas of Jerusalem

Muslim sites within Other QuartersThe Christian Quarter and main sites The Jewish Quarter and Main SitesAccommodation in Jerusa-lemEating OutOrganisations in Jerusalem

Contents

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2.2 The West BankBethlehemOrientationInformationSites in BethlehemAccommodationEating outOrganisations in Bethlehem

RamallahOrientationBackground & HistorySitesAccommodationEating outOrganisations in Ramallah

HebronOrientationHistorical backgroundHebron Information and SitesAccommodationEating outOrganisations

NablusOrientationHistorical backgroundSitesAccommodationEating outTours & Organisations

Jericho and the Dead SeaHistorical backgroundSites in JerichoSites around JerichoAccommodationEating out

2.3 The Gaza StripInformationOrientationHistorical BackgroundSites to VisitAccommodationEating OutOrganisations

2.4 Israel (Historical Palestine)AcreOrientationHistorical backgroundSitesAccommodationEating Out

NazarethOrientationHistorical backgroundSitesAccommodationEating OutOrganisations

HaifaOrientationHistorical backgroundSitesAccommodationEating Out

JaffaOrientationHistorical backgroundSitesAccommodationEating Out

Contents

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1Contents

BeershebaOrientationHistorical backgroundSitesAccommodation and Eating OutOrganisations & Tours

3 Travelwise3.1 Language Guide

Basic Phrases (in Palestinian Arabic dialect)Communicating with localsHotel BookingBuying Food & SouvenirsAsking for Directions and TransportationNumbers, Days and Time

3.2 Palestinian Food and Food phrasesKey Terms and Phrases at a RestaurantDrinks

3.3 Fiqh of TravelSeeking the true destination (learning how to travel)Gaining from one’s travels Travel in the Qur’ān and SunnaThe Journeys of the Prophet (peace be upon him)Types of TravelVisiting mosques and the graves of the righteousEtiquette of Travel Other general advicePrayer while travelling

3.4 Glossary3.5 Bibliography

BooksWebsites

3.6 Acknowledgements3.7 Index3.8 Notes/ Itinerary/

PlannerBiographies

1: Sayf al-Din Tankiz 2: Prophet Sulayman (Solo-mon) (peace be upon him) 3: Prophet Dawud (David) (peace be upon him) 4: Prophet Yahya (John) (peace be upon him)5: Maryam (Mary) (peace be upon her) 6: Prophet Zakariyya (Zechariah) (peace be upon him)7: Prophet Isa (Jesus) (peace be upon him) 8: Mahmoud Darwish (1941–2008) 9: Prophet Ibrahim (Abraham) (peace be upon him) 10: Prophet Yusuf (Joseph) (peace be upon him)11: Prophet Yunus (Jonah) (peace be upon him) 12: Prophet Musa (Moses) (peace be upon him)

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Palestine Maps

JORDAN

MediterraneanSea

EGYPT

SYRIA

LEBANON

The Gaza StripPage 123

JerusalemPage 123

TheWest BankPage 123

Israel(Historical Palestine)

Page 123

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Palestine Images

Steps leading to Al-Aqsa

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Introducing Palestine1

INtroducing Palestine

This section has been divided into nine areas:

1.1 Why go1.2 When to go1.3 How to go1.4 Where to go1.5 Before you go1.6 When you go1.7 When you return1.8 A brief history of Palestine1.9 Environment

1.1 Why GoDespite the harsh circumstances they themselves are in, Palestinians are incredibly welcoming and accommodating to all travellers. They are also particularly appreciative of people who are willing to learn about their situation first hand. In addition to the more famous religious sites, there are plenty of other places to visit to keep even the most demanding of travellers occupied!

1.2 When To GoTravelling to Palestine does not usually require you to book ahead with regards to accommodation and tours. However, during Easter and Christmas, sites and hotels can get very busy and very expensive. If you can be flexible about when you travel then try to avoid travelling at these times. Weather-wise, it is best to travel during the spring (April/May) or autumn (September-November) when the weather is pleasant and prices are lower. Do take into account the regional differences in

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weather, as the south will always be hotter, even when it is raining in the north and coastal areas.

If you do decide to travel in the summer (July/August), it can be very hot, so take special precautions and stay hydrated. The southern Negev region is desert-hot in this season and the coastal areas are very humid. If the heat really gets to you, then the best idea is to head for highland areas on the mainland such as Jerusalem, for escape. In the winter (December-early February) you can expect some very cold weather, with rain and even snow not uncommon across the region. Again, the south will be warmer and more pleasant during the winter season.

Climate

Average Temp˚C/F Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

Jerusalem 10/50 13/55 15/59 19/66 24/75 26/78 28/82 30/86 27/80 25/77 18/64 11/51

Gaza 16/60 19/66 20/68 22/71 25/77 28/82 30/86 30/86 31/87 29/84 25/77 19/66

Hebron 9/48 12/53 15/59 20/68 24/75 26/78 28/82 28/82 27/80 25/77 18/64 12/51

Jericho 20/68 22/71 25/77 32/89 34/93 37/98 39/102 39/102 36/96 32/89 27/80 22/71

Nablus 10/48 13/55 15/59 19/66 25/77 25/77 29/84 28/82 28/82 30/86 18/64 18/64

Ramallah 9/48 13/55 15/59 20/68 24/75 25/77 28/82 27/80 27/80 25/77 17/62 12/51

Make sure you pack clothes appropriate to the season that you are travelling in. It’s useful to carry a light jacket in the summer months for cooler early mornings and evenings. Warm coats and sweaters are a must for the winter months when the temperatures are low, particularly at night. Make sure that all clothing is modest and suitable for visiting religious sites and areas; this means no shorts for men or revealing clothes for women. Long trousers and tops are recommended for men whilst modest clothing such as loose trousers/skirts and long-sleeved tops are recommended for women.

When out in the sun, make sure that you have a sun hat, sunscreen, sunglasses and a bottle of water. Always wear comfortable walking shoes as roads can be hilly and walks quite tough; the last thing you

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need is sore feet. Whatever you end up taking, remember to pack light as you will be carrying this luggage across checkpoints, on buses, trains and taxis. Remember, the less you take, the less you have to lose. This also means more space for presents and souvenirs!

PricesTravelling to the Holy Land is not cheap and you will be paying European prices most of the time. This doesn’t mean that there isn’t any accommodation for those on a tight budget- if you are willing to stay in hostels (some of which are pretty decent) and survive on fast-food or self-service then US$30 a day can go a long way. However, for the average traveller who wants to enjoy a little more comfort and be a little more demanding in the culinary department, be prepared to pay around US$50–100 for mid-range hotels. Sharing accommodation is one way to keep prices down if you are staying in budget or even mid-range accommodation, as the price difference between single and double rooms is usually very small. At the top end, staying at three and four-star hotels and all the best restaurants will set you back around US$150–250 a day. Whilst these luxurious facilities are available within the Israeli territories, please note that within the West Bank and Gaza such amenities are simply not available.

1.3 How to Go

AirDirect air travel to the Palestinian Territories is not possible. To fly in, you have the choice of either flying to Ben Gurion Airport in Tel Aviv (Israel) and then travelling across Israel to the West Bank or Gaza Strip, or flying to Amman, Jordan and getting a bus service across the border with the West Bank.

Citizens of the EU, UK, USA, Australia, Canada and South Africa will need a passport that is valid for at least six months from the entry date. Visitors must also hold onward or return tickets. You will be given a three-six month visa, which will be stamped in your passport at the airport.

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Those known to have donned their ihram from here include Umar ibn al-Khattab (the second Caliph), Bilal ibn Rabah (the Prophet’s muez-zin), Abu Hurayra, Abdullah ibn Umar and Tamim ad-Dari amongst many others. Bilal ibn Rabah, who refused to raise the adhan (call to prayers) after the Prophet’s death, raised the adhan after al-Aqsa Sanctuary was conquered by the Muslims. Furthermore, many of the companions died and were buried in the area which is recognised and visited by Muslims. These include the graves of Shadad ibn Aws, Tamim ad-Dari and Ubada ibn as-Samit. The tradition of the great Sahaba and pious predecessors was to visit al-Aqsa Sanctuary to fulfil the sunna but also to gain great reward for it. They also used al-Aqsa Sanctuary as a centre of learning and meditation

Jerusalem Sites

HighlightsDuring the 1948 war, the historic city of Jerusalem was split into East Jerusalem (Palestinian) and West Jerusalem (Israeli). Until 1967, the city was effectively divided into two small towns.

East Jerusalem is centred on the Old City, which is the location of al-Haram ash-Sharif and various other religious sites. East Jerusalem’s vicinity was also expanded to incorporate the lands of the West Bank and the Mount of Olives.

West Jerusalem is accessible through the Old City and its main attrac-tions are scattered through Israeli neighbourhoods which developed after the expulsion of Palestinian residents. Getting around Jerusalem is best done on foot, as many of the sites are in close proximity with the Old City walls of East Jerusalem. Here you’ll find the glorious Dome of the Rock and al-Masjid al-Aqsa and various monuments within the Muslim Quarter. The Christian and Armenian Quarters also boast spectacular religious sites such as the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and the Via Dolorosa which follows the biblical path of the crucifixion. The main sites within the Jewish Quarter, which replaced the historical Maghribi Quarter (Moroccan Quarter), include the Wailing Wall and a number of important synagogues.

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Orientation and Vital InformationEntry and exit into the Old City is best through the Damascus Gate as this brings you out to the centre of the transport links. Maps are available at the Jaffa Gate for the bus lines. As mentioned before, don’t be tempted to exchange your money at banks as they charge high commission rates. There are a lot of money-changing offices along Salah ed-Deen Street and Damascus Gate. For bank transactions and travellers cheques, there is Bank Hapoalim (Az-Zahra Street, Open Sunday–Thursday from 8:00–14:00 and until noon on Fridays) and for banks in West Jerusalem head for Jaffa Road.

The telephone code within Jerusalem is 02. The main post office in East Jerusalem is at the intersection of Salah ed-Deen Street and Sultan Suleiman Street—stand on the left-hand side queue to send a parcel and buy stamps. If you only need to buy stamps you can purchase them much quicker at the tobacco shop aptly named Al-Moudakhan (the Smoker) opposite the post office. The main post office in West Jerusalem is located at 17 Jaffa Road (open Sunday–Thursday 8:00–18:00, Sundays 8:00–12:00). There is also a small post office inside the Jaffa Gate (open Sunday–Thursday 7:30–14:30).

The main tourist information office based in Jerusalem is sadly uninformed and unenthusiastic about Palestinian tourism. Consequently This Week in Palestine is recommended, as it is an essential source of information on cultural events in East Jerusalem and the rest of the Palestinian territories. You will find this leaflet in most hotels and it can also be downloaded from www.thisweekinpalestine.com. The Jerusalem Media and Communication Center (JMCC) is a fantastic website which gives a wealth of information on sites within Jerusalem and the rest of Palestine, such as art and culture , Palestinian folklore stories and even Palestinian recipes. See: www.jmcc.org. You can also head to the Christian Information Centre which will offer useful, friendly advice and information about East Jerusalem and the West Bank but is understandably focused on Christian sites.

Monday–Friday 8:30–17:30, Saturday 8:30–12:30. Jaffa Gate, Omar ibn al-Khattab Square. (02) 627 2696 or cicinfo@cicts.org www.cicts.org

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stairway at the junction of Habad Street and St Mark’s Road up to the rooftops around al-Wad markets.

Saturday–Thursday 9:00–16:00, Friday 9:00–14:00. Admission for adult/child 16/8 NIS.

The Muslim Quarter

Al-Haram Ash-SharifStretching from the Damascus Gate to al-Haram ash-Sharif, the Muslim Quarter is unmistakably Middle Eastern and rich in Islamic architecture. Across the skyline of minarets, mosques and bustling markets, al-Haram ash-Sharif stands out mainly because of its eleva-tion but also due to the glimmering magnificence of the Dome of the Rock. Al-Haram ash-Sharif (Noble Sanctuary) is a vast promenade about one-sixth of the total area of the walled Old City. Also known as al-Masjid al-Aqsa, the entire area is considered a mosque and in the past visitors were obliged to take off their shoes at the entrance of the Sanctuary and not outside the individual mosques within as they do now. The entire area illustrates impressive examples of Arab-Islamic architecture through its numerous monuments, domes, minarets and fountains. For example, the Ghawanimah Minaret located in the northwest corner of al-Haram is a Mamluk architectural masterpiece. Erected in 1298, this six-storey minaret was constructed in the Syrian-Crusader style of quadrangular towers. A visit to the Plaza and the Museum of Islamic Art can be undertaken as follows:

Saturday–Thursday 8:00–10:30 and 13:30–14:30, closed Fridays. During Ramadhan only open from 7:00–10:00. Please note that non-Muslims can only enter al-Haram ash-Sharif from Bab al-Magharba by the Wailing Wall.

Al-Masjid Al-AqsaReferences in the Qur’an and hadith to ‘al-Masjid al-Aqsa’ (meaning the farthest mosque) are to the entire walled area known as al-Haram ash-Sharif (the Noble Sanctuary). Within it, there is a domed mosque in the south-eastern corner which is also called al-Masjid al-Aqsa, but that should not be confused with the Qur’anic and hadith references to al-Masjid al-Aqsa. This mosque is considered to be the largest mosque in Jerusalem and can accommodate about 5,000 people. An elegant and

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Al Haram Al Shareef

Minaratof Ghawanima

Babal-Nadhir/Majlis

WesternPortico

WesternPortico

WesternWall

Babal-Magharib

Al-Buraq Wall(Wailing Wall)

Minarat Fakhriyah

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Dome ofYusuf Agha

Al-Buraq MosqueStone Bench

Al- Aqsa Mosque

South Gates

Musalla Marwani

Cradle of Isa

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Sulayman’sThrone

Fountain ofSultan Sulayman

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Dome ofthe Chain

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Mawazin

East Gardens

Fountain of Sha’lan

Dome of Shaykh al-Khalili

Dome of the Mi’raj (Ascension)

Dome of al-Nabi

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Platform Domes

Babal-Rahma

Babal-Taubah

Bab al-RahmaCemetery

Bab al-Hadid

Bab al-Qattanin

Bab al-Matarah

Bab as-Sakina

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Silsilah(chain) Minaret

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Did you know?Mamluk Architecture: The Mamluk period ran from 1250 when they took over from Salah ad-Din al-Ayyubi’s successors until they were conquered by the Ottomans in 1517. The Mamluks raised the status of Jerusalem by adorning it with the construction of many beautiful buildings such as Islamic schools, hospices and mausoleums (burial chambers). Whilst they were particularly enthusiastic about religious institutions and built forty-four madrasas (Islamic schools), they also carefully planned public facilities such as souks, caravanserais and hammams.

Inspired by the philosophy and message of Islam, Mamluk architects combined geometry, Islamic calligraphy and symmetry to aesthetic perfection. Mamluk build-ings are recognisable by their distinctive deep-set arched entrances and the use of red, cream and black striped masonry known as ablaq. Stalactite, honeycomb-like designs that decorate the inside of domes and the tops of doorways and recesses are known as murqanas. The decorative use of Kufic lettering and Islamic calligraphy also add to the unique elegance of Mamluk architecture. Other noted features include elaborate bronze-work on doors, carved wooden pulpits, beautiful mosaics and stained glass. To explore more Islamic art and architecture, head to the Museum of Islamic Art which is located at the south-western corner of al-Haram ash-Sharif.

The Christian Quarter and main sitesThe Christian Quarter of the Old City is distinctly Palestinian and Christian, where alcohol is sold freely alongside crosses and icons of the Virgin Mary. Although Arabic is widely spoken here, most residents are Greek Orthodox and so have left this influence in dress, buildings and architecture too.

The Church of the Holy Sepulchre (Kanisa Al-Qiyania)The Church of the Holy Sepulchre is the most important Christian holy place in Jerusalem as it is believed to be the site of Jesus’ Crucifixion, burial and resurrection. Largely hidden from view due to crowded surroundings, its multiple domes are better viewed from the rooftops of the Old City. Within the church are the five last stations of the Via Dolorosa (explained below) and the church was in fact built by Emperor Constantine and his mother St Helena to mark these events. Over the centuries the church has been destroyed several times and its present day appearance is attributed to Emperor Monomac and twelfth century Crusaders. Immediately inside the entrance is the ‘Stone of Anointing’ which according to Roman Catholics marks the

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Inscriptions above the burial places show that the tombs were used for the burial of foreign Christians in the fourth and fifth centuries ce. The catacomb has an unusual plan, with a central circular chamber and radiating fan-shaped corridors leading to the burial places (kokhim).

For generations the Othman family who live next to the tombs have been in possession of the keys to the three catacombs. For a small contribution the key holder will give you a guided tour of the tombs and refreshments if they are not too busy.

Monday–Friday 9:00–15:30. Bring a torch to light your way through the tomb.

A little higher up from the tombs on the right is a terrace that provides an excellent view of Jerusalem, extending over the Temple Mount and the Old City to the high-rise blocks of West Jerusalem.

The Jewish Quarter and Main Sites

Al-Buraq Wall (Wailing Wall) The Wailing Wall is Judaism’s holiest site and within the large stones, personal prayers written on paper are tucked in for consideration. The wall is believed to have once been part of Herod’s temple built in 20 Bce as the lower stones of the wall are Herodian while the stones higher up date from the Omayyad and Fatimid era. In ce 70, the Roman General Titus destroyed the temple and the Jewish community was only allowed to enter once a year to mourn the ruins. These lamenta-tions over the temple’s destruction have given it its distinctive name. In the sixteenth century Sultan Suleyman granted the Jews rights to worship at the wall. They had previously used the Mount of Olives as their main site of public celebration. In June 1967, Israeli authorities took total control of the wall destroying Palestinian homes next to it and al-Buraq Mosque to create the Western Wall Plaza, which is now used as an open-air synagogue and a place for religious festivals.

Located on the western wall of al-Haram ash-Sharif, Islamic tradi-tion also links the wall to the night journey of the Prophet Muhammad (peace be upon him) known as al-Isra. It is believed that the Prophet tethered al-Buraq (a winged celestial creature with which he ascended to the heavens) to the western wall.

Open daily.

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Wohl Archaeological Museum Located around the Hurva Square, this museum is built on the ruins of mansions from the Herodian period. The museum illustrates the lifestyles of the religious aristocracy who once lived in these lavish homes—impressive mosaics, frescoes, ornaments and furniture are all on display.

Sunday–Thursday 9:00–17:00, Friday 9:00–13:00. 1 HaKaraim Street, East Jerusalem. Admission is 15 NIS

Accommodation in Jerusalem As the bustling centre of the country and its religious sites, Jerusalem will leave you spoilt for choice when it comes to accommodation. In the Old City, there are some great Muslim establishments to stay in, the only drawback being that the Old City is completely pedestrianised and so there may be a problem if you have mobility issues.

Hashimi Hotel (m)This hotel is a real gem of a find located on Souq Khan ez-Zeit Street, through the Damascus Gate. Follow the market path until you reach a fork, take a right and follow on through the market—look out for signs for the hotel. It is run by Muslim Jerusalemites, who keep this place in good condition with a large, tastefully decorated lounge and comfortable rooms. They serve breakfast on the top floor which has absolutely splendid views over the Old City and the Dome of the Rock. WiFi and internet are available, as well as laundry service. Staff are extremely friendly and knowledgeable about the sites across the city and can arrange taxis and tours for you. The hotel attracts a lot of Muslim pilgrims as it is extremely well located to visit al-Haram ash-Sharif, and the establishment is reported to be alcohol and smoke-free.

Dorms (separate male and female), single, double at 120, 180 and 220NIS. Mobile 054 547 4189. hashimihotel@hotmail.com www.hashimihotel.com

Golden Gate Inn (m)Located on Souq Khan ez-Zeit Street, this place is run by a Muslim couple who provide an alcohol-free, Muslim-friendly place to stay in Jerusalem’s Old City. The Golden Gate Inn may not be as large or as luxurious as the Hashimi, but it is clean, comfortable and offers real

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النارصةNazareth

OrientationThere are no direct buses to Nazareth from Jerusalem so it is usually best to travel to one of the major cities such as Jaffa, Haifa and even Akka and then connect to Nazareth. If do however want to go direct from Jerusalem, catch a bus to Afula which will then connect to Nazareth.

From Nazareth to Akka, catch bus No 343 from the main bus sta-tion on Paul VI Street. The bus departs every 45minutes, costs 22.5NIS and takes around one hour to arrive. Sheruts (shared taxis) depart to Tiberias from Paul IV Street (near el-Bishara Street). For Haifa, sheruts leave from the same street but from the Paz petrol station. The Tourist Information Centre is located on the junction of Paul IV Street and Casa Nova Street, they are from Monday–Friday 8:30–17:00, Saturday 8:30–13:00. (04) 610 6611. As a mainly Christian town, Nazareth closes on Sunday rather than Saturday or Friday.

Historical BackgroundA Canaanite village from the Bronze Age, Nazareth translates as ‘the woman who keeps watch’ and has been closely associated with Prophet Isa and his childhood. As his hometown and the site of annunciation (where Mary was informed she was pregnant with Prophet Isa), it is believed that a Christian community existed here back in the third century. The Byzantine church commemorating the Annunciation was constructed in ce 352 and raised tensions amongst local Palestinians who felt that they were being influenced by outsiders. Nonetheless, there was very little they could do to hold back the Christian pilgrim-ages that came to see the house of Mary and Isa’s school. The Crusaders also built a church of annunciation in the city.

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Islam came to Nazareth after the Crusaders were defeated in the Battle of Hittin in 1187 by Salah ad-Din. Christian pilgrims were however permitted to visit the city due to a number of truces between the two sides and the local Christian population remained intact. Pilgrimages did however fall in number as the journey became more dangerous and the city became home to a significant amount of Palestinian Muslims. Under the Ottomans, Christians were encouraged back to the city from all over Palestine and the demographic soon shifted back to favour Christians of various denominations. Franciscans rebuilt the Church of Annunciation in 1730 and pilgrims were attracted to the growing town—which was recognised as a municipality in 1880. Under the British Mandate, Nazareth was the administrative centre for Galilee.

During the invasion of Israeli forces in the country, many Muslim Palestinians fled to the city for protection. Sadly, it was taken by Israeli forces on July 16 1948 and till this day almost half of its population are internally displaced people from other cities across historic Palestine and the Occupied territories.

Modern day Nazareth is one of the largest Arab cities in Israel, with a population which is mainly Palestinian (Christian at 40% and Muslim at 60%). Since the 1950s, the municipality has been expanded to include surrounding Jewish neighbourhoods named upper and new Nazareth. This has been seen by some as a cynical move to Judaize the city and control the Palestinian proportions within the city’s demo-graphics. The city was also embroiled in the controversial US$80million renovation project 2000 where money was squandered on the Jewish Neighbourhood to the detriment of the Arab Old City.

Sites in Nazareth

Old Nazareth The Old City of Nazareth is graced with a variety of mosques, churches and impressive residences of eighteenth and nineteenth century nota-bles. These include the Mansion of the Governor of Galilee, Dhaher Omar, which extends over 13 rooms with painted ceilings, Italian marble and iconic red roofs, arched windows and balconies. The Old City also hosts a Souq (street market) starting from Casa Nova Street

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which is particularly busy on Thursdays. Although it is mainly a fresh fruit and vegetable market and has stalls selling household wares, clothing and spices it is a great insight into the Palestinian community of Nazareth reflecting the close relationship between Muslims and Christians. As the hometown of Prophet Isa, the city attracts a lot of Christian pilgrims who comes to see Mary’s Well and the Nazareth Synagogue where Jesus preached before he was driven out.

Al-Masjid al-Abyad (The White Mosque)Hidden in the busy markets of Old Nazareth, this mosque is one of the oldest in the city and was built back in 1812. If you want to have a look around, just ask the stall holder in front of the mosque who will call the friendly caretaker of the mosque. The old key for the mosque has been in his family for generations and he will also show you around the serene and immaculate mosque as well as the tomb of the high commissioner of Nazareth Sheikh Abdullah al-Fahoom, dated 1235 ah (cE 1857).

Open for prayers, if you ask the key-holder, he may even give you a little tour.

Basilica of AnnunciationThe largest church in the Middle East, this basilica is believed to mark the very site of Mary’s home and commemorates the event when Angel Gabriel appeared and informed her she was pregnant with Jesus. Commissioned by the Franciscan Church and designed by the Italian architect Giovanni Muzio, it received some harsh criticisms when it was first constructed in 1969. Its modern design is hard to deny and it does have the tone of an art gallery—especially on the outside where a collection of images of the mother and child, from different countries across the world are displayed. The shape of the concrete roof echoes the shape of a Madonna lily, a symbol of the virgin and is a towering 55 metres high.

Inside, however, the church is dimly lit by glass windows and is centred on the remains of the fifth century Byzantine church which first stood here. In fact, the Basilica of Annunciation is one in a line of many churches built on this location and its magnificent walls have simply enclosed them into one large building. A staircase to the right of the lower church leads to the upper level of the Basilica which is used

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3.1 Language GuideWhilst Arabic is the official language of Palestine, other spoken lan-guages include English and Hebrew amongst European languages such as French, Italian, Spanish and German. Whilst you will find that a lot of the people you talk to will understand English, any effort to com-municate in Arabic will be pleasantly received.

Basic Phrases (in Palestinian Arabic dialect)

Hello (informal): Marhaba Response—> Marhabten (Literally ‘two hellos’)Peace be with you (formal): As’Salaam ‘Alekoum Response—> Wa’ Aleykoum As’Salaam (And upon you peace)Goodbye: Ma’assalamaYes: Na’am or AywaNo: La’Please: Min fadlak (male) Min fadlik (female)I’m sorry: (M) Mita a’Sef (F) Mita a’SfehExcuse me: Lao samaht / AfwanWhy?: Leish?Good morning: Sabahl il-khayr Response: Sabahl il-Nour (Morning of light)Good afternoon; Masa il-khayrResponse: Masa il-Nour (Afternoon of light)Good night: Tisbah al-khayrResponse: Wa inta min AhluWelcome: Ahlan wa SahlanResponse: Ahlan beek (Welcome to you)

Thank You: ShukranResponse: Afwan

Communicating with localsWhat is your name?: Esh Ismak (M)? Esh Ismek (F)?Response: My name is. . . and you? Esmi. . . wa inta (M)? Esmi. . . wa inti (F)?How are you?: (M) Keef Halak? (F) Keef Halek?Response: Thanks be to God: al-Hamdulillah Where you are from?: (M) Min wein enta? (F) Min wein enti?Response: I’m from. . .: Ana min. . .Britain: BritanyaIreland: IrelandaUSA: AmerekiaCanada: CanadaSouth Africa: Joonub Afrek’yahHopefully (god willing); Insha’AllahPleased to meet you (depart-ing): Fursa sa’eda

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Palestinian Food3.2

3.2 Palestinian Food and Food PhrasesFor Palestinians nothing says ‘home’ like their food and although there is a wide variety to discover, there is a set of staples which you will find everywhere. There is the pick-me-up fast-food stalls which sell a variety of falafel and shawarma sandwiches. Falafel consists of ground chick-peas which are shaped into a small ball, fried and put into pita bread with salad and condiments of your choice. Shawarma usually consists of seasoned meat which is skewered on top of a roaster, which is then rolled into a flatbread and topped with your choice of salad. Although the meat is often beef, you also get turkey and lamb Shawarma stalls.

A multitude of dips, salads and pickles also form the main accom-paniment to any main dish. The dips will include a beige paste called hummus, tabouleh which is chopped salad and bulgar wheat as well as mtabbal (also known as baba ghanooj). Hummus is basically a chickpea paste which has lemon, garlic, tahini (sesame seed paste) and also olive oil is drizzled on top. Tabouleh consists of finely chopped parsley, tomatoes and softened bulgar wheat topped with lemon and olive oil. Mtabbal is a dip made from pureed roasted aubergine with garlic and tahini. These are all eaten with brown or white flatbread; just take a small piece of bread, scoop up some of the dip and voila!

Another dip combination which is usually part of a light breakfast with tea is zeit ou za’atar. This consists of two small plates one with oil (that’s the zeit) and Za’atar which is a blend of dried wild thyme, sesame and salt. Again, break off a small piece of bread and dip into the zeit (olive oil) first and than the za’atar. Siha!

Main dishes which form the Palestinian cuisine usually consist of either rice, chicken/lamb or vegetables or even all three. Maqlubbah (which literally means ‘upside down’) is made by cooking fried auber-gine and cauliflower alongside chicken at the bottom of a pan with the rice added on top. Once it’s all ready the pan is turned upside down, leaving the rice at the bottom of the dish topped with the chicken and vegetables.

Mlukhiyeh consists of chicken soup and finely chopped Palestinian spinach (the mlukhiyeh) topped with lemon and garlic; it’s also usually accompanied by rice.