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The Garden Fence

Harford County

Master Gardeners Monthly Newsletter

November 2018

Howdy from Southwest Utah! We are in St. George today, and later will travel to different Utah National parks, including Zion and Bryce Canyon. Today, on tour, we learned that young Mormon settlers were sent by their leaders to the area of St. George to start farms and found small settlements. This hot and barren area is just to the north of the Mojave Desert. So barren is this area that half of the people tasked to settle refused to go and the half who went left after one year. The young settlers in their 20’s, had to build irrigation canals in order to grow plants. Both men and women cultivated the land to scratch out an existence for the family. The effort it took to build farms and settlements was quite impressive. See the picture to get a feel for the arid, parched terrain near St. George. I look forward to learning more Utah history and geography as the week progresses! Ellen Haas ‘16

Inside this Issue President’s Message One Shot - Trees as our Last Chance for Survival Maryland State Soil Training Opportunities AG Center Closings Hosta Soil Prep Calendar of Events Officers Ellen Haas President Anne Spelman Vice President Kim Poehling Carol Linthicum Secretary Greg Murray Treasurer Steve O’Brien Newsletter Editor Ginny Smith Newsletter Continuing Education Quick Links Harford County Extension Office Home & Garden Info Center MG Hours Online

President’s Message

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“Today, more than 400 million people in Sub-Saharan Africa will spend each day in extreme poverty, living on approximately $1 - $2/day. Most are rural farmers. As their crop yields fall from years of destructive farming practices and expensive chemical usage, their lands are also becoming increasingly degraded and deforested. Unable to provide for themselves and their families, these farmers sink deeper into a cycle of poverty, hunger, and despair that seems unbreakable for far too many.” (Trees for the Future Impact Report)

John Leary, the director of Trees for the Future addressed Master Gardeners at the September MG Study Group meeting and informed us that he has given this same presentation to the United Nations several times and has requests for additional 2019 UN presentations. John provided success stories where the planting of trees has reversed this destructive cycle of poverty and land degradation. The organization, Trees for the Future, has made it possible for over 150 million trees to be planted in Africa. They teach a simple, replicable and scalable

approach called the Forest Garden Program. Every parent wants to provide food for his/her children and ensure their health and happiness. Creating a forest garden makes that possible! Investment in forest farms adds trees for diversity, helps regenerate the land, eliminates monoculture crops and reduces poverty, hunger and thus immigration. I get more from my two acre forest garden than I could get from six acres of peanut crop. My children have a future now, and as I age, trees will continue to feed my family. Mate Mbeye, Forest Garden Farmer Before planting trees, I had no money and I had no purpose. Ousmane Willane, Forest Garden Farmer Before my forest garden, all of my family had to leave to find work. Now they work here! Sidy Ba, Forest Garden Farmer Most of the Master Gardeners had read and discussed John Leary’s book, One Shot - Trees as our Last Chance for Survival before the meeting. We knew the basic structure of the Forest Garden Plan. Farmers begin by creating a landscape farm design for their families that meets the core principles of the program. Two foremost goals are garden security and soil quality enrichment. The forest farm is bordered by a living fence to protect the land from animals. For example, a farmer might plant two types of Acacia trees and a jujube tree. These trees are thorny and will keep out grazing animals such as cows, goats and sheep. Hardwood trees might need to be incorporated as well in areas that have hippopotami. Thus, the fence might be thought of as a living green wall. Fertilizer trees are then planted in rows across the farmer’s land. These trees should be varieties that are fast growing and nitrogen fixing. Leaves drop to enrich the soil and help rebuild it. Diversification is a key value in the Trees for the Future program. Higher-value crops would then be planted within the Forest Garden. Vegetables and companion plants are added such as onions, basil, and marigolds that discourage smaller animals and rodents. The 1st year or 2 the farmer would

One Shot - Trees as our Last Chance for Survival

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harvest the vegetable crops then by the 3rd year he or she would harvest tree fruits. Also the 1st year or 2 more water is needed than by the 3rd year when the trees are less water dependent. Harvesting the garden crops during year 1 and 2 reminds the farmers to keep the trees watered and maintained on a regular basis. Typically, there is water infrastructure available, but the farmer may not be able to access it until the farm becomes the forest farm model and profitable. During his presentation, John Leary, divided the MGs into three groups and we participated in a forest garden design activity. The concept was to develop a forest farm plan for a one-acre site at the Extension Office location. One side of the land was bordered by the major road, Rt. 1. Another side was marshy and backed by existing trees. All the groups enjoyed the exercise and made varying levels of progress in their designs. At the end of the meeting, the Master Gardeners presented John Leary with a one-thousand-dollar honorarium for Trees for the Future. He was thrilled. The group then feasted upon the wide variety of food that Master Gardeners provided. John autographed many copies of his book for the group. The Master Gardeners are now interested in beginning a Harford County version of the Forest Garden on the Extension property. Joyce Browning took a few eager gardeners out into the field in her truck. The task seems daunting, but many people are eager to design such a project.

John Leary with his "One Shot" book John explaining the Forest Garden design activity

A few Master Gardeners responded to the presentation. This system of FOREST GARDENS is one of the most hopeful techniques I have heard about. I admired the way it empowered families to control their destiny. Susan Schluederberg I was impressed with the fact that the Trees for the Future program is concerned about relieving the burden put upon women in many countries. I gathered the following information from the group’s

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website. “Trees for the Future is empowering women. In 2016, 1,418 agroforestry workshops were conducted with farmers. 44% of participants are women.” Ginger Huller Deforestation doesn’t have to be the end of the story, and land that we believe has been destroyed by poor farming practices can be given new life. An interesting system call Forest Gardening can be implemented that restores the land and helps create an environment in which people can persevere and even thrive. John Leary’s message to all of us is “plant more trees”. Eleanor Cone The lecture by John Leary was definitely thought provoking. I came away with more questions than answers. Mr. Leary has shown African farmers a better way to farm through forest gardens that will produce results as well as restore their dignity and hope. That is what inspired me. However, I still cannot see how this translates to the American farmer who owns acres of land, who is paid to grow certain crops in a year, or in some years, not grow anything. How can they devote the time and energy needed to start a forest garden? How can they be convinced to even try this new concept? What are their families doing while they start a whole new way of farming? Where do they get support for this new project, both financial and moral, while they give this a try? What about farmers who grow a particular crop for a potential buyer? What about weather conditions and seasonal changes in this country? Do farmers subdivide their farmland into two acre segments and farm each segment individually? Do we have problems in this country with grazing animals that invade farms on a regular basis? Or, are we talking about the farmer who only has a small amount of property to begin with? As you can see, I have many questions that need clarification (and I probably don't know nearly enough about farming). Marsha Brett

John signing his "One Shot" book

Written by: Diane Mitchell ‘12 and Ginger Huller ‘14

Presenting Master Gardeners’ gift to John

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Did You Know That Maryland Has a State Soil? A state soil is a soil that has special significance to a particular state. Each state in the United States has selected a state soil, twenty of which have been legislatively established. These “Official State Soils” share the same level of distinction as official state flowers and birds. The following information comes from the U.S. Department of Agriculture/Natural Resources Conservation Service and the Soil Science Society of America. Established in 1901, the Sassafras series was one of the first soil series in the early days of soil survey activities in the U.S. It is one of the oldest soil series in the U.S. It is designated as a Benchmark and Hall of Fame soil series, which is a recognition of its historical significance in the evolution of soil science in the U.S. These soils are mapped on nearly 500,000 acres in Maryland. The Sassafras series consists of very deep, well drained, moderately permeable soils formed in sandy marine and old alluvial sediments of the Coastal Plain. These soils are categorized as prime farmland, which means that they are among the most productive soils in the state for agriculture and forestry, in addition to being one of the soils best suited to construction, onsite effluent disposal, and recreational development.

For this and other information about State Soils visit:

Published with permission from "The Harford Resource", a Harford Soil Conservation District publication.

Smmer passed firefly-fast. Now dancing asters have a blast… By Amy Ludwig VanDerwater

MARYLAND STATE SOIL - SASSAFRAS

https://www.nrcs.usda.gov/wps/portal/nrcs/detailfull/soils/edu/?cid=STELPRDB1236841, and the following PDF, from the Soil Science Society of America: https://www.soils4teachers.org/files/s4t/k12outreach/md-state-soil-booklet.pdf.

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Give Thanks

Classes by Harford Co Extension Office staff When Cost Location/Contact

Healthy Home Green Cleaning Nov. 13 11:00 am—12:00 pm FREE Harford Co. Ag Center

Jennifer Dixon Cravens 410-638-3255

Healthy Holiday Meal Planning Nov. 15 11:00 am—12:00 pm FREE Harford Co. Ag Center

Jennifer Dixon Cravens 410-638-3255

Grow It, Eat It, Preserve It Canning Classes

Nov. 29 Apple Butter Dec. 4 Berries 11:00 am—1:00 pm

$20/ea. Harford Co. Ag Center

Jennifer Dixon Cravens 410-638-3255 https://gieipi18h.eventbrite.com

FCS Dine-In With Us – Healthy Eating for the Holidays

Dec. 13 11:00 am – 1:00 pm FREE Harford Co. Ag Center

Jennifer Dixon Cravens 410-638-3255

Beginner Farmer Training Program (BFTP) applications due The BFTP offers 12 – month immersive training experience that combines a comprehensive classroom curriculum with hands-on learning at some of the region’s leading sustainable farms. Contact Sarah Sohn, Program Director, for more information: sarah@futureharvesstcasa.org November 1 9:00 am – 5:15 pm UMES (Eastern Shore) For farmers, service providers, and soil health enthusiasts: a full day of learning from farmers and other experts about the latest innovations in soil health and fertility. Registration is open and the schedule is announced. Contact info: niamh@futureharvestcasa.org November 26 8:30 – 3:00 Eastern Shore Higher Education Center (Queenstown) Focus on farm, succession process, including communication, business planning, estate planning basics and tax basics. Participants will walk away with tools they need to start developing a farm succession plan. Cost: $10 To register or information contact: https://transferring-farm-to-the-next-gen-winter18.eventbrite.com November 26, 27, 28, and 29 and December 3 and 4 Christmas Workshops Volunteer to create holiday decorations to sell during the Christmas Open House. Materials and instruction provided. Contact Sophie Wittelsberger at 410-557-9570 x216 or swittelsberger@ladewgardens.com

Training Opportunities

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December 7 & 8 9:00 am – 4:00 pm Ladew Open House and Greens Decorated Manor House in celebration of the holiday season Tickets may be purchased in advance at www.LadewGadens.com or call 410-557-9570 January 17 – 19, 2019 Growing Our Future Harvest 20th Anniversary Conference, College Park, Hyattsville, MD The region’s premiere farm and food gathering is celebrating 20 years. Three days of workshops, farm fresh meals, speakers, and farmer and foodpreneur learning and networking. Contact: agatha@futureharvestcasa.org

MG Melanie Aponte is willing to revive the Evening Study Group! On Wednesday, November 7 will be the first meeting at the Extension Office. Everyone is invited. Attendance will gauge the level of interest and she will proceed after getting input from those interested. All of the instructional time is counted as your MG Continuing Education hours. Topic: “It Ain’t your Mama’s Rutabagas” Come explore the history of the Rutabaga and how to grow them in your garden. They are known as a hard- to-work-with vegetable but Melanie will tame them like an apple! She will demonstrate food preparation and recommend uses of this underused vegetable!

Summary of the University of Maryland Extension Funding

This is why MG’s report our contacts by ethnicity- FUNDING!

The MG Evening Study Group is in revival!

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Sent in by MG Jerry Hudgens 1996; Written by Tony Avent, Published January 1993

Let me preface my remarks by saying that some areas of the midwest and northwest have naturally near perfect soils. These folks are most certainly skeptical of people such as myself that spend time extolling the virtues of soil preparation. Many others are satisfied with the way their hostas grow, and for them (at least until seeing the Wade garden) felt that they were doing a good job growing hostas.

Begin by remembering that the most important part of the hosta plant is what? Oh, course it's the leaves...right? This illustrates the common misconception that the most important part of something is that which we can see. In hostas as well as almost all other plants, the most important part is the root system...the underground network that provides moisture, nutrients, and anchors the plants in the ground.

We must first examine what the roots would like to be happy, because as the saying goes...happy roots are healthy roots and lead to healthy plants. Probably the most important factor in soil preparation is pH. Defined by scientists, pH is the percentage of hydrogen ions in the soil. In lay terms, pH is the acidity or alkalinity of the soil. The scale of pH in soils runs from 1 to 14, with 1 being the most acid and 14, the most alkaline.

Most garden plants, hostas included, prefer a pH near 6.0, which indicates a soil that is slightly acid. Many native soils in the south have a natural pH of 4.0, while soils in the Midwest have pH's in excess of 8.0. While these numbers may seem relatively close, each number

represents a tenfold increase in the acidity or alkalinity.

By example, the pH of the native soil in my garden is 4.0, which is 100 times as acid as the desired pH of 6.0. A good analogy is the use of a dilute solution of cleaning bleach that can be used with the bare hand. Imagine making the solution 100 times as strong, then sticking your hands into the solution...look ma...no skin. Begin thinking of your hands as roots of your hostas. As the solution becomes more acid (or alkaline), the root hairs, which absorb the nutrients and water are burned, rendering them unable to perform their primary function. Having the wrong pH consequently negates much of the effect of watering and fertilizing.

Due to the chemical effects of pH, as the soil acidity drops, certain essential plant elements are no longer available to the plants, while other chemical reactions render some soil elements toxic to the plants. Similar chemical reactions occur when the soil alkalinity is excessive...the reason for very few hosta growers in certain areas of the western United States.

Interestingly enough, pH is quite easy and inexpensive to counteract. Most state departments of agriculture offer soil testing for a nominal fee (free in some states). I recommend having a soil test taken every few years. If you are uncertain about how to get a soil test in your area contact your county cooperative extension service.

I do not however recommend the home soil test kits. While some of these kits do a decent job of determining the soil acidity, they do not measure the buffering capacity of the soil. For example, two different soils of a pH 4, may take entirely different amounts of lime to raise the pH to 6.0. It is not unusual to need amounts from 10 pounds to 200 pounds to change identical pH’s in different soils.

In areas of acid soil, powdered agricultural lime does the trick, while in alkaline soils, sulfur (usually used in the form of amonium sulfate) will work to drop the pH.

In using lime, it is critical that the material be mixed into the soil profile. When applied to the surface of existing landscapes, the soil neutralizing effect which takes 6 months to complete will only be effective as the lime moves through the soil at the rate of 1/2 inch per year. This poses two problems...if enough lime is added to change the soil profile all at one time, the surface pH will

Image of hosta ‘Dick Ward’

Hosta- Soil & Garden Prep

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be too alkaline, while just below the surface, the soil remains acid. Ideally in established plantings, a small amount of lime can be applied every year until the entire soil profile has been raised.

Obviously the optimum scenario would involve having a soil test performed and add the correct amount of lime or sulfur when the beds are prepared. After this time a monitoring of the soil pH every couple of years would be adequate, with small amounts being surface applied as needed.

Many of the garden centers in the acid soil belt have begun to push pelletized lime. Pelletized lime (which I call yuppie lime) is lime that can be spread without turning you or your BMW a gritty shade of light grey. The lime particles have been glued together with a water soluble binder. While pelletized lime can be surfaced applied, a good rain is necessary to dissolve the pellets so that the lime can begin to take effect. Remember that the smaller the lime particles are ground, the faster the lime will work to change the pH.

Many folks make the mistake of using pelletized lime to rototill into the beds. Since lime works on the "reach out and touch someone" principle, the lime cannot reach out to neutralize acid particles since it is too busy holding hands with thousands of other lime particles. Pelletized lime should always be dissolved on the surface prior to incorporation. I don't mean to degrade pelletized lime, as it is has two advantages...it is much easier to spread, and it pumps much more money back into the economy of the folks who produce and sell the product.

We often hear the advice to plant your hostas in an area that is moist, but well drained...hmmm. Have you ever bothered to think about this advice? Okay, let's begin with moist. Moist is the term that describes a soil condition which is somewhere between wet and dry. That was simple enough, so how about "well drained". On the surface this seems to be a contradiction, for if the area is well drained it should be dry...right?

Wrong, well drained simply means that the excess water drains from the soil, leaving the soil with adequate air space. While we are all familiar with the need for water in the soil, very few gardeners realize the need for air in the soil. Without air in the soil, there is not root growth or development.

If root growth is not taking place, then growth of the hosta also ceases or occurs at a very minimum level. With a lack of root growth, the roots are not able to absorb water or nutrients, even though both may be available in the soil. If excess water is available in a poorly drained soil, the plant could drown and suffer from drought at the same time.

In the world of ideals, which rarely exist outside the classroom, a good soil should be composed of 50% solids (soil particles), and 50% pore space. The soil pore space should be equally divided into 25% air space, and 25% water space. In a typical clay soil on a typical building lot, the total pore space is usually between 25 and 30 percent. Due to compaction and a lack of organic matter, this soil would probably be lacking in both air and water pore spaces. What this means when translated into English, is that the less pore space in the soil, the less the plants will grow.

Most parts of the United States are blessed with clay type soils. While these soils are cursed in both wet weather and dry, the soils are quite valuable for holding moisture and nutrients. Instead of cursing the soils, we need to spend time learning to modify and work with these soils to create an ideal environment for our hostas to grow.

One of the easiest ways to convert these less than desirable soils to productive growing environments is through the incorporation of organic matter. Organic matter is basically something that used to be alive. For most gardeners, this could mean a variety of materials from peat moss to compost to manure.

The act of simply digging into these compacted soils does wonders for adding aeration. The incorporation of organic materials insures that the compaction does not re-occur. The English practice of double digging has long been realized as an important factor in producing some of the lovely and lush English gardens. Due to the intensive labor intensive investment required, it is not often used in this country. In double digging, the top 12 inches of soil are removed and piled to the side. The 12 inches of soil below this layer are dug and mixed with large quantities of organic matter. Then the first layer is reapplied, after also being mixed with organic matter.

Probably the most used and overrated organic amendment is peat moss. On top of being outrageously expensive, peat moss is not very satisfactory at adding aeration to clay soils. One of my favorite soil amendments is composted leaves. Composted leaves are usually quite abundant in most areas of the country, and are usually free. In many large cities, the towns have large

Photo RHS.org

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stockpiles that can be accessed free by residents. Other desirable organic materials includes animal manures, compost from your own compost pile, municipal composts, and a variety of other lumber byproducts.

The lumber industry used to have a disposal problem for many of its byproducts, but that was only until they met the gardening industry. Age old piles of sawdust quickly disappeared, when gardeners realized what a wonderful organic amendment was sitting untouched. While old sawdust is becoming much scarcer, a new product which has taken the south by storm...composted ground pine bark. This product, which differs greatly from the shredded mulch makes a wonderful soil amendment. Since it is slow to decompose, but low in nitrogen robbing cellulose, it is wonderful for adding aeration to clay soils.

There are new organic products entering the marketplace almost daily, from Zoo Doo to Mushroom Droppings to Kricket Krap. The key with any organic amendments is to have an adequate and economical supply. The organic amendment is also much more beneficial if it is high in beneficial microorganisms. I would encourage each of you to experiment with many of these different products and draw your own conclusions. For years, some gardeners have extolled the virtues of bone meal, blood meal, cottonseed meal, and the list goes on. What is important to remember is that the only thing that two gardeners ever agree on, is what the third gardener does wrong.

While organic products help greatly in holding moisture, and somewhat in increasing drainage, something more is needed in poorly drained soils. My preference is a material called pea gravel or #78 washed stone. This small washed gravel is spread over the newly tilled bed to a depth of 1/2 inch. The material is then tilled or spaded into the bed to help create the ultimate in permanent aeration. There are a number of new materials on the market to serve similar purposes including chicken grit, isolite (very expensive), and my favorite Stalite. Stalite (marketed under the name "Perma-till" is an expanded (popped like popcorn) slate material which looks like pea gravel but each particle is filled with air space.

Many gardeners have tried to use sand to accomplish the same results of adding drainage, but often wound up with disastrous results. In a clay based soil, sand and clay particles tend to interlock, resulting in a soil with much worse drainage than before. Here in North Carolina, the combination of clay and sand has made us the national leader in brick production. Only when a sand/clay mix becomes more than 70% sand, does drainage improve. The only exception is very organic soils. In these soils, a coarse washed sand will benefit the mix.

When blending organic amendments into the soil, it is important that the necessary nutrients be added at the same time. As you know, there are 16 essential elements for plant growth. Of these, the three that are typically added through fertilizers are nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium. On a bag of fertilizer, these are the three numbers across the front of each bag. In each bed, I add at least 100 pounds of slow release fertilizer (we use a 21-7-21) for each 1000 square feet of bed area to be prepared. While many of the micronutrients are critical for plant growth, I recommend that these only be added after a soil test. These micronutrients can be extremely toxic if added in too great a quantity.

Nitrogen is probably the most visible element in plant growth. Slow and pale green growth is usually a sure indication that a plant is suffering from nitrogen deficiency. Any time large quantities of incompletely decomposed organic material is added to a planting site, additional nitrogen is beneficial. The bacteria which work to decompose organic matter, use nitrogen as a fuel. If the nitrogen is not adequate, the bacteria will fight the plants for the rights to the nitrogen.

Phosphorous is deficient in many areas around the country. Unlike nitrogen which is very mobile through the soil, phosphorous is not. Unless phosphorous is incorporated into the soil, it will take years of surface applications to get adequate amounts of phosphorous into the root zone. Most folks get enough phosphorous with their choice of a complete fertilizer. If however your soils are deficient in phosphorous, you may wish to supplement with a superphosphate (0-16-0) or triple superphosphate (0-46-0).

Many gardeners, especially the "organic" types, prefer the use of rock phosphate. This raw form of phosphorous is very slowly available in the soil. If rock phosphate is finely ground, and used in combination with a highly organic soil, it becomes a very valuable and long lasting phosphorous source.

Potassium is the final element in the puzzle. Potassium is also available in most commercial fertilizers. Like phosphorous, it moves slowly through the soil. Unless a soil test reveals that your soil is particularly low in potassium, the amounts provided in a standard fertilizer will be sufficient. In sandy soils, supplemental amounts of potassium are often needed. These can be applied in the form of potassium sulfate, potassium chloride, or potassium magnesium sulfate...the type depends on the native soils of the area.

Let's see some BIG hostas next year!

Photo: Monrovia.com

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Joyce Browning | Urban Horticulturist Master Gardener Coordinator | Harford County Extension Office

The University of Maryland Extension programs are open to any person and will not discriminate against anyone because of race,

age, sex, color, sexual orientation, physical or mental disability, religion, ancestry, national origin, marital status, genetic information, political affiliation, and gender identity or expression.

Nov-Dec Calendar of Events

Nov 1 10 am- noon MG Monthly Meeting Extension Office Nov 3 Eden Mill Fall Fest Eden Mill Nov 6 1:30-2:30 pm Brightview Assisted Living Bel Air Brightview Nov 7 7-8:30 pm The Renewed Evening Study Group

Topic: “It Ain’t your Mama’s Rutabaga!” Extension Office

Culture and Recipe for Rutabaga

Nov 12 Extension Office Closed for Veterans Day Nov 14 10 am – noon Kauffman Cntr Class on Birds Upper Ches/ Kauffman

Nov 17 10:15- noon Garden Series: Tool$, Tip$ and Timesaver$ Bel Air Library Branch

Nov 17 2:30-4:30 Invasinators Control Team Anitia Leight Estuary Nov

22&23 Extension Office Closed 2 days for Thanksgiving

Nov 29 10 am Steering Committee Extension Office Dec 4 1;30-2:30 pm Brightview Assisted Living Bel Air Brightview Dec 5 10-noon Make Holiday Centerpiece Workshop

Bring supplies with you! Liriodendron basement

Dec 6 6-8 pm Holiday Party Liriodendron

Dec 12 10-noon Kauffman Cntr Class on Hanging Gardens Upper Ches/ Kauffman

Dec 14 The data base for Online Tracking closes at midnight Dec 15 10:15-noon Garden Series: Holiday Centerpiece Class

by Linda Masland Bel Air Library Branch

Dec 25 Happy Holiday Jan 3 10 am –noon Monthly MG Meeting Extension Office