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Page 1: The Ethicurean Cookbook: Recipes, Foods and Spirituous Liquors, from Our Bounteous Walled Gardens in the Several Seasons of the Year

CONTENTS

CoverListofRecipesAbouttheBookTitlePageTheEthicurean

Winter

BeetrootCarpacciowithHoneyedWalnutsDuckTerrinewithCranberriesandCobnutsTandoorScallopsCeleriacPureacuteeandPickledRockSamphireMonkfishCheekswithSaffronCauliflowerandAniseedRoastPartridgewithBreadandCheeseLambrsquosWoolJanetrsquosJungleJuiceIcewithCheddar99FlakeRabbitConfitwithLovageBreadcrumbsConfitMeatsConfitTomatoeswithRuffleBasilBeefBrisketSlow-roastedinCoffeeSaucewithValorMashPigeonBreastswithBeetrootPearlBarleyandBordelaiseSauce

SteamedLemonSolewithFondantPinkFirsGoldenBeetrootandNasturtiumRemoulade

SeaRobinwithFennelButterSauceandHerbedPinkFirsPineappleTurmericandGingerGlazedHamwithlsquoPiccalillirsquoGlazedStarAniseCarrotsEcclesCakeswithDorsetBlueVinnySauceMilkStoutandChocolateSteamedPuddingPedroXimeacutenezandWhiskywithVermouthSmokeFennelSeedandGingerHotChocolate

Spring

NettleSoupwithCaerphillyStGeorgersquosMushroomswithAsparagusRibwortPlantainMushroomJellyandAppleJelly

Sweet-cureMackerelwithMorelsSpeltSodaBreadandHorseradish

AsparaguswithToastedSesameandHollandaiseSauceClearHamHockBrothwithPoachedEggsCaerphillyandCiderWelshRabbitSmokedChipotleChilliesSmokedRoeDeerLoinwithWildRocketClampedCarrotsHoneyedWalnutsandWoodSorrel

CurdCheeseCucumberFlatBeanAniseedandSesameCrabSaladwithNewPotatoesPickledCarrotandSmokedPaprikaMayonnaise

SpringRadisheswithAnchovyCregravemeFraiche

TroutwithKelpandShiitakeMushroomStockRiceFlatBeansandSeaKale

GoatMeatballsMashLovageButterandMustardGreensOxTonguewithSwedeParsleyandCiderVinegarOxTonguewithCauliflowerGilliflowerandHazelnutsSaltMarshLambwithTidalGreensSteamedRabbitPuddingPorkJuniperandBlackIPAPiePearlBarleywithOldDemdikeandStGeorgersquosMushroomRhubarbandCustardChocolateandSaltCaramelBrownieswithCherryandElderflowerSauce

ElderflowersyrupStrawberryandRoseLemonadePuddingwithSaffronandCiderBrandyCustard

TheEthicureanVermouthBotanicalsVermouthRoseLemonadeTheEthicureanCocktailNegroni

Summer

FigsWrappedinPorkBellywithLavenderandBuffaloMozzarella

CaramelisedChicoryLabnehandMaceratedStrawberrySaladRoastedTomatoandLiquoriceBasilSoup

RoastedCourgetteandCobnutSoupwithLabnehandGingerTurmericandMintDressing

SousedMackerelCarrotFennelandSaffronwithGooseberryandMintGranita

ChilledBeetrootSoupPar-celWalnutIceCreamandRoastedCobnutOil

Ewersquos-curd-stuffedCourgetteFlowerswithFennelSherbetGlobeArtichokeswithHollandaiseSauceandSumacPeaGoatBaconandLovageBrothScallopsinPuffPastrywithVermouthandFennelCreamPickledPollackwithFlame-roastedPeppersCucumberPulBiberChilliandWaterMint

DorsetBlueVinnyandFlame-roastedPepperswithCharredLittleGem

JohnDorywithMorelMushroomsFlatBeansHaricotBeansandHamHockStock

MusselsinCiderwithTarragonSteamedMegrimSolewithRockSamphireandSumac-braisedFennel

PickledrocksamphireWaterBuffaloFilletwithClearChickenStockTarragonandSalt-bakedBabyBeets

BarbecuedHorseMackerelwithCobnutSalbitxadaSauceFennelandSumacGravadTroutWhiteRaspberryLoganberryandEwersquosYoghurtTerrinewithSweetCicelyConfit

ElderflowerSorbetwithFennelSherbetandWildStrawberries

PineappleWeedJellyElderflowerandLavenderMarshmallowsSpicedGingerBeerSummerElderRawRhubarbSmashDoubleSloeGinandTonic

Autumn

GoatBaconwithOxTongueNasturtiumsandClarifiedHamBroth

WildMushroomswithSourdoughToastandThymeSticheltonCregravemeFraicircche

WildMushroomandSpeltPressedTerrinewithSpinachandRainbowChard

SwedishKnaumlckebroumldwithCottageCheesePickledBeetrootCarawayBeetrootCrispsandTomThumbLettuce

RoastCrownPrinceSoupwithTandooriSpiceWalnutOilandCrispSageLeaves

Salt-bakedCeleriacPortobelloMushroomandAppleSoupDeep-friedAuberginewithRoseHipSyrupPearNativeNapeHazelnutCardamomandEwersquosCheeseSalad

PreservedDuckLegChorizoButterBeanandConfitTomatoPotStewwithYinYangBeans

WoodPigeonBreastswithPersianSpicedBulgarWheatCucumberAniseedandBlackCabbage

ChickenMoleVenisonCiderandQuinceStewwithHerbedButterDumplings

FishSoupwithSpicedHeritageTomatoesFennelSeedandEnglishTruffleOilToast

Slow-braisedGoatrsquosLegwithCiderShallotsLentilsandGlazedCarrots

PheasantKievwithWinterTarragonandStrawberryMyrtleRareRoastSirloinofBeefwithBordelaiseSauceBlackCabbageandTruffleCauliflower

AlmondPearCardamomandChocolateCakeSeaBuckthornSorbetwithAppleandVanillaPureacuteeToffeeAppleandCaramelLemonBalm

BeetrootAppleandCobnutCrumblewithRoastedWhiteChocolateSpoom

SimplesyrupsforsorbetsandspoomsSpoomRoastedWhiteChocolateSpoomCherrySpoomItalianMeringueLordrsquosLovageAppleFlipTheOrchardatBarleyWoodSalsifyandOgleShieldGratinVincentCastellanorsquosVenisonChorizo

Basics

Listofsuppliers

BibliographyAcknowledgementsCopyright

ListofRecipesAlmondPearCardamomandChocolateCakeAppleFlipAsparaguswithToastedSesameandHollandaiseSauceBarbecuedHorseMackerelwithCobnutSalbitxadaSauceBeefBrisketSlow-roastedinCoffeeSaucewithValorMashBeetrootCarpacciowithHoneyedWalnutsBeetrootAppleandCobnutCrumblewithRoastedWhiteChocolateSpoomCaerphillyandCiderWelshRabbitCaramelisedChicoryLabnehandMaceratedStrawberrySaladCherrySpoomChickenMoleChilledBeetrootSoupPar-celWalnutIceCreamandRoastedCobnutOil

ChocolateandSaltCaramelBrownieswithCherryandElderflowerSauce

ClearHamHockBrothwithPoachedEggsConfitMeatsConfitTomatoeswithRuffleBasilCrabSaladwithNewPotatoesPickledCarrotandSmokedPaprikaMayonnaise

CurdCheeseCucumberFlatBeanAniseedandSesameDeep-friedAuberginewithRoseHipSyrup

DorsetBlueVinnyandFlame-roastedPepperswithCharredLittleGem

DoubleSloeGinandTonicDuckTerrinewithCranberriesandCobnutsEcclesCakeswithDorsetBlueVinnySauceElderflowerandLavenderMarshmallowsElderflowerSorbetwithFennelSherbetandWildStrawberriesElderflowersyrupEwersquos-curd-stuffedCourgetteFlowerswithFennelSherbetFennelandSumacGravadTroutFennelSeedandGingerHotChocolateFigsWrappedinPorkBellywithLavenderandBuffaloMozzarellaFishSoupwithSpicedHeritageTomatoesFennelSeedandEnglishTruffleOilToastGlazedStarAniseCarrotsGlobeArtichokeswithHollandaiseSauceandSumacGoatBaconwithOxTongueNasturtiumsandClarifiedHamBroth

GoatMeatballsMashLovageButterandMustardGreensItalianMeringueJanetrsquosJungleJuiceIcewithCheddar99FlakeJohnDorywithMorelMushroomsFlatBeansHaricotBeansandHamHockStockLambrsquosWoolLordrsquosLovageMilkStoutandChocolateSteamedPudding

MonkfishCheekswithSaffronCauliflowerandAniseedMusselsinCiderwithTarragonNegroniNettleSoupwithCaerphillyOxTonguewithCauliflowerGilliflowerandHazelnutsOxTonguewithSwedeParsleyandCiderVinegarPeaGoatBaconandLovageBrothPearNativeNapeHazelnutCardamomandEwersquosCheeseSaladPearlBarleywithOldDemdikeandStGeorgersquosMushroomPedroXimeacutenezandWhiskywithVermouthSmokePheasantKievwithWinterTarragonandStrawberryMyrtlePickledPollackwithFlame-roastedPeppersCucumberPulBiberChilliandWaterMint

PickledrocksamphirePigeonBreastswithBeetrootPearlBarleyandBordelaiseSaucePineappleWeedJellyPineappleTurmericandGingerGlazedHamwithlsquoPiccalillirsquoPorkJuniperandBlackIPAPiePreservedDuckLegChorizoButterBeanandConfitTomatoPotStewwithYinYangBeansRabbitConfitwithLovageBreadcrumbsRareRoastSirloinofBeefwithBordelaiseSauceBlackCabbageandTruffleCauliflower

RawRhubarbSmashRhubarbandCustardRoastCrownPrinceSoupwithTandooriSpiceWalnutOiland

CrispSageLeavesRoastPartridgewithBreadandCheeseRoastedCourgetteandCobnutSoupwithLabnehandGingerTurmericandMintDressing

RoastedTomatoandLiquoriceBasilSoupRoastedWhiteChocolateSpoomRoseLemonadeSalsifyandOgleShieldGratinSaltMarshLambwithTidalGreensSalt-bakedCeleriacPortobelloMushroomandAppleSoupScallopsinPuffPastrywithVermouthandFennelCreamSeaBuckthornSorbetwithAppleandVanillaPureacuteeToffeeAppleandCaramelLemonBalm

SeaRobinwithFennelButterSauceandHerbedPinkFirsSimplesyrupsforsorbetsandspoomsSlow-braisedGoatrsquosLegwithCiderShallotsLentilsandGlazedCarrots

SmokedChipotleChilliesSmokedRoeDeerLoinwithWildRocketClampedCarrotsHoneyedWalnutsandWoodSorrel

SousedMackerelCarrotFennelandSaffronwithGooseberryandMintGranita

SpicedGingerBeerSpoomSpringRadisheswithAnchovyCregravemeFraiche

StGeorgersquosMushroomswithAsparagusRibwortPlantainMushroomJellyandAppleJelly

SteamedLemonSolewithFondantPinkFirsGoldenBeetrootandNasturtiumRemoulade

SteamedMegrimSolewithRockSamphireandSumac-braisedFennel

SteamedRabbitPuddingStrawberryandRoseLemonadePuddingwithSaffronandCiderBrandyCustard

SummerElderSwedishKnaumlckebroumldwithCottageCheesePickledBeetrootCarawayBeetrootCrispsandTomThumbLettuce

Sweet-cureMackerelwithMorelsSpeltSodaBreadandHorseradishTandoorScallopsCeleriacPureacuteeandPickledRockSamphireTheEthicureanCocktailTheEthicureanVermouthBotanicalsTheOrchardatBarleyWoodTroutwithKelpandShiitakeMushroomStockRiceFlatBeansandSeaKaleVenisonCiderandQuinceStewwithHerbedButterDumplingsVermouthVincentCastellanorsquosVenisonChorizoWaterBuffaloFilletwithClearChickenStockTarragonandSalt-bakedBabyBeets

WhiteRaspberryLoganberryandEwersquosYoghurtTerrinewithSweetCicelyConfit

WildMushroomandSpeltPressedTerrinewithSpinachandRainbowChard

WildMushroomswithSourdoughToastandThymeSticheltonCregravemeFraicircche

WoodPigeonBreastswithPersianSpicedBulgarWheatCucumberAniseedandBlackCabbage

AbouttheBookTheEthicureanphilosophyissimpleeatlocalcelebratenativefoodslivewell

TheEthicureanisquietlychangingthefaceofmodernBritishcookingndashallfromawalledgardenintheheartoftheMendipHillsTheEthicureanCookbookfollowsayearintheirmagnificentkitchenandgardenndashandcelebratesthegreatestfooddrinkandtraditionsofthisfairland

ThecombinationsareelectriccuredroedeerflirtswithwoodsorrelandforagednettlesoupisfortifiedbyayoungCaerphillyHoneyedwalnutsnestleamongstbeetrootcarpacciorichcurdcheeseisbalancedbydelicatecucumberAndthecomfortofpiesandpudndashporkandjuniperpieEcclescakeswithDorsetBlueVinnyndashisenhancedbytheapplejuiceciderandbeerpouredinequalmeasure

With120recipesandayearofseasonalinspirationinphotographsandwordsEthicureanismisanewBritishcookingmanifesto

TheEthicureansareJackAdair-BevanPaucirclaZarateMatthewPenningtonandIainPennington

AbovelefttorightJackMatthewOchoPaucirclaandIain

CookrsquosNotesAllvegetablesarepeeledunlessotherwisespecifiedAlleggsaremediumfree-rangeButterisunsaltedunlessotherwisespecified

ethicureanadjthepursuitoffine-tastingfoodwhilebeingmindfuloftheeffectofonersquosfoodproductionandconsumptionontheenvironment

TheEthicureansitsbelowanovergrownGeorgianestatesometimehauntofWordsworthandColeridgeItsgardensarealabyrinthofrosespergolasandchippedstatuesTherestaurantandkitchenarehousedintwooftheoriginalglasshouseswithinBarleyWoodWalledGardenbuiltforHenryHerbertWillsoftheImperialTobaccoCompanyin1901ThiswastheyearinwhichQueenVictoriatookherfinalbreathOurWalledGardenisfilledwithneatrowsofcabbagesandespaliersofgreengagesandapricotsHundred-year-oldvineshavebulliedtheirwaythroughasmallbrickholeinoneoftheglasshousesCamberedred-brickpathsframeapatchworkgardenofcannellinibeansmarchingTomThumbandaquiltedstatisThegardeniscutinhalfbyayew-linedcorridorinspringlavendergrowsatjusttherightheighttotearoffsmallhandfulsaswewalkupfromthelowerorchardInsummerthepurplemassgiveswaytocampanuladayliliesandhundredsofasterMarkthegardenerbringsustrugsofvegetableseachmorningandthestarchedwhiteflashofachefrsquostuniccanbeseenaroundtheherbbordersjustbeforelunch

BritishseasonalityethicalsourcingofingredientsandattentiontothelocalenvironmentarethefoundationsofourbusinessWearefourfriendsJackAdair-BevanPaucirclaZarateandMatthewandIainPenningtonBetweenuswehaveoverlappingareasofexpertisethatrangefromthepracticalandorganisationalknowledgeneededtorunabusinesstothescienceofcookingandthewildfoodthatgrowsoutsidethewallsofourrestaurantWeareself-taughtandwanttoofferanapproachtoBritishfoodthatisneitherexclusivenorisolatingandonethatisfundamentallyaboutsharingknowledgeandpassion

Sustainabilityhasbecomeabuzzwordinrecentyearsandallanybodycan

SustainabilityhasbecomeabuzzwordinrecentyearsandallanybodycaneverdoisworktowardsamoresustainablewayoflifendashweEthicureansaredoingourbestWetookovertherestaurantin2010overfivedayswecompletedarefitwiththehelpofourfamilyandfriendsknockingdownwallsredecoratingandpausingonlytotakeadecentlunchandsupperonthelongtablesoverlookingtheWringtonValeOnthesixthdayweopenedforbusinessandbeganafullappleseasonpickingpulpingandjuicingWestartedresearchingtheseventyvarietiesofapplethatwenowhadtolookafterinourtwoorchards

FoodandthenarrativesurroundingitisinaconstantstateofevolutionitispoliticalartisticandcompletelydeliciousTheMendipsinSomersetthehomeofTheEthicureanisaplaceonthevergeofsomethingincredibleArtisansfromacrossthecountryaremovingtheirproductionhereCommunityfarmsorchardsandcollaborationsarepoppingupacrossthecountyWearewatchingdaybydayasourfriendscustomersandsuppliersarere-establishingandstrengtheningtheirruralcommunitiesandtakingcontroloftheirfoodproductionWeareseeingandenjoyingtherediscoveryofoldtechniquesandadaptationsforthefuture

FromouropeningdaywechangedourmenuonadailybasisaccordingtowhatwasavailablewecontinuetocelebrateeverysingledayoftheBritishseasonInthisbookwehaverecordednotonlyrecipesbutourrelationshipswithourproducersourlandourlivesandourhistoryndashallofwhichareintricatelyconnectedwiththefoodweeat

Werarelyleavethisbeautifulwalledgardenitisanabsoluteparadise

RecipeList

BeetrootCarpacciowithHoneyedWalnutsDuckTerrinewithCranberriesandCobnuts

TandoorScallopsCeleriacPureacuteeandPickledRockSamphireMonkfishCheekswithSaffronCauliflowerandAniseed

RoastPartridgewithBreadandCheeseLambrsquosWool

JanetrsquosJungleJuiceIcewithCheddar99FlakeRabbitConfitwithLovageBreadcrumbs

ConfitMeatsConfitTomatoeswithRuffleBasil

BeefBrisketSlow-roastedinCoffeeSaucewithValorMashPigeonBreastswithBeetrootPearlBarleyandBordelaiseSauceSteamedLemonSolewithFondantPinkFirsGoldenBeetroot

andNasturtiumRemouladeSeaRobinwithFennelButterSauceandHerbedPinkFirs

PineappleTurmericandGingerGlazedHamwithlsquoPiccalillirsquoGlazedStarAniseCarrots

EcclesCakeswithDorsetBlueVinnySauceMilkStoutandChocolateSteamedPudding

PedroXimeacutenezandWhiskywithVermouthSmokeFennelSeedandGingerHotChocolate

THEREAREACOUPLEofspecialrequirementsfortheWalledGardeninwinterndashfirstalightertodefrostthepadlocksandsecondlyagoodtorchforeveningtripsaroundthegardenunlessthereisafullmoonFrostsintheWringtonValearespectacularTheairhoarthatdecoratesthetreescreatesalandscapethatismoreakintoSiberiathanSomersetInanearly-morningdriftingfogtheviewfromtheglasshouseisdivineDuringourfirstyearatBarleyWoodwehadheavysnowandseveralhoarfrostsandthepathwaythroughthecentreofthegardenlayunderagoodthreeinchesofsnowJackclippedonhisskisandarmedwithtwobamboocanespinchedfromMarkrsquosbeansmanagedtoskirightthroughitMorningtripstothecompostheapatthebottomorchardthereserveoftheluckiestinsummerbecomeatasktobeavoidedbyallofus

ByearlyDecemberwetrytofinishpressingthelastoftheseasonrsquosapplesasworkingintheicyciderbarnisharshElenaPaucirclarsquosmumandPhilJackrsquosdadruntheapplebusinessBothareusedtowarmerclimatesndashMexicoandtheGulfrespectivelyYoursquollfindtheminthebarnclothedinmultiplelayersdebatingwhichvarietiesofapplestoblendTheirfridgesathomeareburstingwithlabelledspecimensTydemanrsquosLateOrangesitsnexttoReverendJamesTheseasonrsquoslastpressingsrequirejugglingthefinalfewtrugsofsweetvarietieswiththelatercookerssuchastheinfamousBramleyandthecloud-texturedBlenheimOrange

Thecoldweatheractsasagentleprodtowardsmorefull-bodiedbutteryfoodanddrinkByDecembercalorificcautionisthrownasideaswemarchtowardstheinevitablefeastandbyChristmaswearetrottingfull-belliedtowardsabsolutegluttonyPartridgesaresynonymouswiththistimeofyearweallknowthesongTheseplumpbirdsvirtuallyflyoutofthekitchenroastedandglazedwithacoatofhawthornjellywithitswild-fruittartness

WinterisachancetodeployallofthosechutneysjamspicklesjelliesliqueursinfusedginsbeerscidersandwinesthathavebeensquirrelledawayduringseasonalglutsItrsquosatimeforexperimentssweetconcoctionssuchasmembrillo-infusedvodkaandvanillaandespressobeanrumOurWalledGardenapricotjamandblackcardamomvodkaatriumphofadrinkwasthesweetproductofabitterdayinJanuary

FromtheNewYearwhileeveryoneelsedetoxesexercisesanddietsinacloudofresolveandperspirationwearepreparingthebiggesteventinourcalendarourannualWassailForustheWassailisafestivalfixduringthecruellestpartofwinterWefeelwehaverecapturedalostpartofourcountryrsquosheritageandrichlyupdateditOnthiscoldeveningweneverfailtoenjoythemagicalritualsofeatingdrinkingandworkingtogether

BytheendofJanuarywearetheonespayingpenanceforouralcoholconsumptionandexcessWorkbeginsorrathercontinuesafteralittlebreakAllthefruittreesareprunedthedividinghedgesthatarematureandreadyforlayingareconfrontedwithbillhooksandaxestheformidablehedgeoutsideourciderbarnisduetobelaidnextyearWeareluckytohavetheoldesthedgingsocietyinthecountrytheWringtonandBurringtonwhichwasformedaftertheEnclosuresActcameintoforceintheearly1800sItstillmeetsregularlyjustdowntheroadTherearedistinctivestylesofhedge-layingthatvaryfromregiontoregionEachstyleisspecifictothelocalclimateandthetypesoftreesandshrubsthatwillgrowinlocalsoilTheareaaroundtheWalledGardenisahedge-layingstrongholdalthoughwesuspectfewpeoplewillhaveheardofourlocalcelebrityUncleFrankahedge-layinglegendfromButcombeAllthemaintenancehastotakeplacebeforethebirdsestablishtheirnestsA

maintenancehastotakeplacebeforethebirdsestablishtheirnestsAcarefullyselectedmixofshrubsandtreeswellplantedwillyieldenoughfruittofeedplentyofhungryhumansandbirdsThehedgeframedinthegiantdoorwaytoourciderbarnreadslikeaninventoryofourlarderatTheEthicureanhawthornsloeswilddamsonsrosehipscrabappleshazelandcobnutsBeforeourresidentrobinhastimetosingforamateandbuildanesttheyewhedgesareclippedofferinganearlyreminderofthegardenrsquoscyclicalorderedstyleandtheimminentarrivalofspring

BeetrootCarpacciowithHoneyedWalnuts

WinterisatestingtimeforeventhemosthardenedproponentofseasonalityAnanonymoussighcansometimesbeheardinthekitchenwhenMarkthegardenercomesinwithyetanotherbasketofbeetrootTheaudaciouspink-and-white-stripedChioggiathecommonredDetroitandtheunimaginativelynamedgoldenbeetrootarefrequentvisitorstoTheEthicureankitchenatthistimeofyearHoweverthechefsrelishtheopportunitytocreateanoriginaldishThis

oneisourplayontheclassicbeefcarpaccioReminiscentofastained-glasswindowitcelebratesthedistinctivetasteofeachofthebeetrootvarietiesthatgrowonourdoorstepFlavourandspiceintertwinewithvibrantsplashesofcolourbrighteningamonochromaticwintryday

SERVES43beetroottoppedandtailed300mlredwinevinegar120gcastersugar1clove3staranise12blackpeppercornsasmallpieceofcinnamonstickahandfulofwintersaladleaves(wesuggestamixtureofmizunawinterpurslanelandcressandrocket)flakyseasaltandblackpepper

FORTHEHONEYEDWALNUTS

frac12tspbutter25gwalnuts1tsprunnyhoney

PutthebeetrootinapanwiththevinegarandhalfthesugarPouroverenoughcoldwatertocoverthebeetrootcompletelythenaddthespicesandbringtotheboilCoverwithalidandcookgentlyforabout40minutesoruntilthereisonlyaslightresistancewhenyouinsertthetipofaknifeinthebeetrootMeanwhilepreparethewalnutsMeltthebutterinasmallpanaddthewalnutsandfryoveramedium-highheatuntillightlycolouredAddthehoneyandtossuntilthewalnutsareevenlycoatedDecantfromthepanintoacooldish

DrainthecookedbeetrootkeepinghalfofthecookingliquorandcoolthemundercoldrunningwaterPourthesavedcookingliquorintoacleanpanandaddtheremainingsugarandapinchofsaltBoiloverahighheatuntilithasreducedbythree-quartersitshouldhaveathicksyrupyconsistencyRemovefromtheheatandleavetocool

PeelthebeetrootandcutthemintoquartersUsingamandolineslicethemwaferthinIfyoudonothaveamandolineputthequarteredbeetrootflat-sidedownandslicelengthwaysasthinlyaspossiblewithaverysharpknife

Toservethecarpaccioarrangethebeetrooton4servingplatesthendrizzleoverthesyrupyliquorAddasprinklingofseasaltandfreshlycrackedblackpepperthenscatterthehoneyedwalnutsandthesaladleavesontop

DuckTerrinewithCranberriesandCobnuts

WeuseAylesbury-crossducksfromMadgettrsquosFarmtomakethisterrineItwasthroughfarmersrsquomarketsthatwebecameawareofthecommendableworkMadgettrsquoshasbeendoingforyearsSituatednearChepstowitwasoriginallyadairyandbeefcattlefarm(andwasevenmentionedintheDomesdayBook)butoverthepastdecadethepoultrybusinesshastakenoffLikeothergreatfamilybusinessestheycaredeeplyaboutwhattheydowhichofcourseisreflectedinthequalityoftheirproduceThisisaveryversatilerecipeandyoucouldeasilysubstitutechickenor

goosefortheduckCarefulweighingoftheingredientsiskeyasyouneedtocompressthemevenlyintothemouldsTheterrinesneedanightintherefrigeratorbeforeservingTheywill

keepwellforseveraldaysbecausetheyaresealedbythegoosefatYouprobablywonrsquotneedtobutteryourtoastbeforeliberallyapplyingtheterrinendashalthoughitisprettytastyifyoudo

MAKES4SMALLTERRINES

210ggoosefat1tspsalt1tspgroundwhitepepperfrac12tspgroundstaranise465gskinnedduckbreastroughlydiced60gdriedcobnuts(orhazelnuts)lightlycrushed60gdriedcranberriessoakedinciderfor30minutesthendrained135gblackcabbage(cavolonero)coarselychoppedandthenblanchedinboilingsaltedwateruntiljusttender(optional)seasaltandblackpepper

Putthegoosefatinaheavy-basedpanoveralowheatuntilmeltedthenaddthesaltpepperandstaranisePlacethedicedduckbreastinthefatandcoverthemixturewithacircleofbakingparchmentCookoveraverylowheatfor30ndash45minutesuntiltheduckiscookedbutstillslightlypinkinside(ameatthermometershouldregister74degCthoughwecookoursto55ndash60degC)Removefromtheheatandleavetocoolatroomtemperature

Takethebreastmeatoutofthecooledgoosefatandputitinabowl(Youcanpourthefatoffthecookingliquorfromtheduckstraintheliquorand

canpourthefatoffthecookingliquorfromtheduckstraintheliquoranduseittoaddflavourtootherdishes)AddthenutsdrainedcranberriesandthecabbageifusingandseasonwellLinefour150mlramekinswithclingfilmandputtheminadishtocatchanyspillagesDividetheduckmixturebetweenthemitshouldcomeslightlyabovetherimsPouroverenoughofthecookingfattofillthegapsallowingittosinkinbeforecheckingthelevelagainCovereachterrinewithclingfilmandthenspikeitwithaknifetipsotheextrafatcanrunawayastheterrineschillPlaceachoppingboardontopandweightdownwith4heavytinsLeaveinthefridgeovernight

Beforeservingdiptheramekinsinhotwaterforabout30secondstoloosentheterrinesandthenturnthemoutontoaboardLeavetocometoroomtemperaturesoalittleofthefatmeltsawaythentransferthemtoservingplatesServewithtoastedsourdoughandRowanJelly(seehere)ifliked

daggerItisreassuringtoknowthatthegreatMrsBeetonwouldhaveapprovedofourchoiceofbreedInherBookofHouseholdManagementshewriteslsquoTheWhiteAylesburyduckisanddeservedlyauniversalfavouriteItssnowyplumageandcomfortablecomportmentmakeitacredittothepoultry-yardwhileitsbroadanddeepbreastanditsamplebackconveytheassurancethatyoursatisfactionwillnotceaseatitsdeathhellipthismemberoftheduckfamilyisbredonanextensivescalehellipintheabodesofthecottagersRoundthewallsoftheliving-roomsandofthebedroomevenarefixedrowsofwoodenboxeslinedwithhayanditisthebusinessofthewifeandchildrentonurseandcomfortthefeatheredlodgerstofeedthelittleducklingsandtotaketheoldonesoutforanairingThisinspiringextractservesasreminderoftheimportanceoffoodprovenanceinVictoriantimeswhenamealwasafamilyprocessthatstretchedbeyondsittingaroundatable

TandoorScallopsCeleriacPureacuteeandPickledRockSamphire

ScallopsareprizedfortheirsweetnesswhichcomesfromthewhitemeatanabductormusclethatcontainsveryhighlevelsofmildlysweetaminoacidWheneatenfreshthetasteisreminiscentofseaweedYoushouldbeabletoorderhand-divedscallopsfromagoodfishmongerInthisdishtheirsweetnuttinessiscomplementedbytheuseofceleriacndashasavouryearthyelementgivenmoregrandeurbybeingpureeedwitharichchickenstockTheflavourisheightenedwithtandoorspicesandpungentIndonesianlongpepperwhichaddthefinalelementstothisfantasticandrelativelysimple

pepperwhichaddthefinalelementstothisfantasticandrelativelysimplestarterSamphireandthesaladleafredfrillworkwelltogetherontheplateforreasonsofbothaestheticsandtastendashthetwoingredientsalmostmirroreachotherandconjureupanimageofthemarinebedIfyouwouldliketoservethescalloproespoachthemfor2minutesinalittlevegetablestockpriortoserving

SERVES416diver-caughtscallopsorangeroesremoved1ndash2tbsprapeseedorvegetableoilahandfulofPickledRockSamphire(seehere)ahandfulofredfrill(orotherwintersaladleaves)apinchoftandoorispicemixapinchofIndonesianlongpepperseasalt

FORTHECELERIACPUREacuteE

350gceleriacpeeledandcutinto1cmcubes95mlbrownchickenstock(seehere)80mlcregravemefraicircchefrac14nutmeg

FirstpreparetheceleriacChooseapanlargeenoughtoholdasteamingbasketandhalffillitwithcoldwaterGratethenutmegintothewaterandbringtotheboilPuttheceleriacinthesteamingbasketandsetitoverthepanCoverandsteamuntiltheceleriacisverysoftTransfertoablenderorfoodprocessoraddthechickenstockandcregravemefraicirccheandblitzuntilsmoothscrapingdownthesidesasneeded(Foranextrasmoothconsistencystrainthepureacuteethroughafinesieveafterblending)Seasonwithsalttotasteandreheatgentlyinapan

SeasonthescallopslightlywithseasaltSetalargeheavy-basedfryingpanoverahighheatforaminuteortwoAddathinfilmofrapeseedorvegetableoiltothehotpanitshouldbegintosmokeverylightlyAddthescallopstothepanoneatatimestartingfromtheoutsideandworkinginaclockwisedirectionspirallingtowardsthecentreBythetimeyouhaveputinyourlastscallopitwillmostlikelybetimetoturnthefirstAninviting

inyourlastscallopitwillmostlikelybetimetoturnthefirstAninvitinggoldencrustshouldhaveformedontheundersideIfitisstillalittlepaleleaveforafurther30secondsTurnoverallthescallopsinorderfollowingtheclockwisespiralyoumadeWhenyoureachthecentrereturntothebeginningandtakeoutthescallopsinordercheckingthattheundersidehascolouredtooSetasidetorestonawarmplate

PlaceaspoonfulofceleriacpureacuteeoneachservingplatePlace4scallopsontopofthepureacuteethendecoratewiththepickledrocksamphireredfrillalightdustingoftandoorispiceandasmallpinchoflongpepper

SCALLOPS

AswewritethesustainableandenvironmentallybenignpracticeofdivingforscallopsisunderthreatfromEuropeanlegislationInanattempttocontrolthetoxinlevelsofscallopstheEUhassettheselevelsextremelylowThismeansthatthetestcanonlybepassedifthescallopisshuckedpriortosaleandthisishavingaseriousimpactonthelivelihoodofdiversifnottheentiredivedscallopindustryTrawlingforscallopsdiscardingtheshellsandthepartsdeemedunfitthenfreezingthemeatandroeishigh-volumestuffScallopdiverscannotkeepupItrsquosadoublewhammyandthesnappingandclosingshellofalivescalloponceahallmarkofcarefulfishingisfastdisappearing

TheresultisthatscallopsarenowmorelikelytobefishedbydredgetrawlingwhichistheequivalentofploughingaredtractorthroughaJapanesepeacegardenScallopdiverswitnesstheseabedatfirsthandTheyproactivelymovescallopsndashmostimportantlytheyoungspecimensndashfromthepathsoftrawlerstolsquochuckypatchesrsquoThesearesafeareaswheretheconditionsarebetterforthemtoflourishastheyareallowedtospawnenoughtimesbeforetheyareharvestedThismethodoffishingisfundamentalinallowingstockstobereplenishedforthefutureGuyGrieveandhisfamilychosethetranquilandimmaculately

GuyGrieveandhisfamilychosethetranquilandimmaculatelycleanwatersoftheIsleofMulltosetupasustainableshellfishcompanyItpledgestosupportfishermenwhousesustainablemethodsinthehopethattheycancontributetowardstherecoveryofourseasTheawardsrollinforthiscompanyandwearepleasedtobeinsupport

MONKFISH

MonkfisharegreatmastersofdisguiseTheirenormousslimyheadandbodyserveaseffectivecamouflageontheseabedLookingakintoarocktheyattractpreythroughtheuseofadanglinglurefromtheheadThisabilitytoblendintotheirsurroundingscoupledwiththeirdistinctlackofgoodlooksmeantthattheywerenotpopularforeatingenablingthemtothriveinBritishwatersformanyyearsEventuallytheirsuperb-tastingmeatwasdiscoveredbyhungryhumanswhichsadlyresultedinfisheriesadoptingbeam-trawlingmethodstomeetthehighdemandInevitablythisledtoadeclineinnumbersThespeciesisnowrecoveringbutwewouldstillrecommendthatyousourcethemfromfishmongerssupportingsustainablefishingmethods

MonkfishCheekswithSaffronCauliflowerandAniseed

ThismagnificentdishcontainssomeveryfragrantspicesthattogethercreateasymphonyofflavoursWearefortunatetobeabletobuymonkfishcheeksdirectfromthefishermenviaKernowsashimiafishingcompanyinCornwallThisistheonlywaywecanguaranteethatourfishareeither

CornwallThisistheonlywaywecanguaranteethatourfishareeitherline-caughtorfromstaticnetsKernowsashimirsquosfleetdoesnotdredge-netanyofitscatchaprocessthatisharmfultothemarineecosystemMonkfishheadsareoftendiscardedatseaastheyareconsideredanugly

fishThiswastesaparticularlytastymorselintheformofthecheeksbutKernowsashimiishappytoobligeandyourlocalfishmongershouldbeabletogetholdofthemtooThecheeksareagooddealcheaperthanthetailwhichhaslongsincemadeitsepithetoflsquopoormanrsquoslobsterrsquoredundantThisanglingfishisarealbrutebutthemeatisexceptionalanditsfirmtextureiswhatmakesthisdishsogoodSaffronmakesasplendidcompaniontomonkfishwithitsionichintsof

seaairandfragranceoffishingportsMarkthegardenerhasbeengrowingthesaffroncrocusforafewyearsbutitisalabourofloveInautumntheflowersproducethreestrandseachyetunfortunatelyforMarktheydonotallbloomatthesametimeHehastoscrutiniseeveryflowertocheckwhethertheyarereadytopicksometimestheyareleftfortoolongandthestrandsareblownaway

SERVES4ndash6500gmonkfishcheeksrinsedandpatteddry12saffronstrandsfrac14vanillapodfrac12cauliflowertrimmedandsplitintofloretsstalkroughlychopped1tspgroundcardamom25mldoublecreamalittlegroundnutorrapeseedoil50gwinterpurslane(orotherwintersaladleaves)apinchofgroundmace

apinchofgroundmace4ndash6unsmokedstreakybaconrasherscookedtogarnish(optional)seasalt

FORTHEANISEDRESSING

40mlcidervinegarfrac12tspdriedaniseed(orgroundfennelseed)4tbsprapeseedoil1tspsmoothDijonmustardapinchofsalt

FirstmakethedressingHeatthecidervinegarinapanforafewminutesoveramediumheatRemoveaddtheaniseedandallowtocooltoroomtemperatureStrainthevinegarintoabowladdtheoilmustardandsaltandwhisktocombineTastetochecktheseasoningandaddalittlemoremustardifitneedsit

PutthemonkfishcheeksinabowlwiththesaffronMixtodispersetheyellowsaffronandsetaside

SlitthevanillapodopenlengthwaysscrapeouttheseedsandsetasidePlacethepodinapanofwaterthatwilltakeasteamerbasketandbringtoasimmerPutthecauliflowerstalkinthebasketplaceoverthewaterthencoverandsteamuntilverysoftThismaytake25minutesMeanwhileaddthecardamomtoaseparatepanofwaterandsteamthecauliflowerfloretsoveritfor10ndash15minutesuntiltenderRemoveandsetaside

WhenyouaresatisfiedthatthecauliflowerstalkiswellcookedtransferittoablenderandaddthecreamandsomesalttotasteBlendstoppingtoscrapedownthesidesoftheblenderwithaspatulauntilverysmoothAnyremaininglumpscanberemovedbypassingthepureacuteethroughafinesieveStirthevanillaseedsthroughthepureacuteeItcomestolifeatthismomentbecomingscentedandspeckledKeepwarmwhileyouassembletherestofthedish

Tocookthemonkfishheatalargeheavy-basednon-stickfryingpanoveramediumheatItwilltakeagoodfewminutestowarmthroughevenlysoresisttheurgetocookonituntilitradiatesheatAddenoughoiltothenow

resisttheurgetocookonituntilitradiatesheatAddenoughoiltothenowgoldenfishtocoatitlightlyandseasonwithsaltAddthecheekstothepanandcookfor5minutesoneachsideuntillightlycolouredandjustcookedthroughEnsurethatthefishiscolouringbutnotburningandadjusttheheatifneedsbeRemovethepanfromtheheatThefishcanrestintheheatofthepanwhileyouassemblethedish

ToservetossthewinterpurslanewiththeanisedressingSpoonthecauliflowerpureacuteeonto4servingplatesalongwiththefloretsandstackthefishalongsidewithapileofsaladleavesDustwithalittlegroundmaceandiflikedtopwiththecrispbaconrashers

daggerBritainhasahistoryofsaffroncultivationinthefieldsofNorfolkandSuffolkCornwallalsohadasaffron-growingindustryuntilthenineteenthcenturyandyoucanstillbuyCornishsaffroncaketodayThereisacommercialsaffronfarminNorfolkbutnotsurprisinglytheyregularlyselloutbeforethenextseasonevenbegins

RoastPartridgewithBreadandCheese

TherearetwocommonspeciesofpartridgeinBritainthenativegreyandtheFrenchred-leggedThenativebirdisararitythesedaysanditsFrenchrelativeistheonemostofuswillencounterAtaquickglancethepartridgelooksremarkablylikeaplumpmonocledgentndashanillusionthatisquicklyshatteredwhenitfleesinarapidscuttlepreferringtorunratherthanflyEscapedbirdsfromnearbyshootsregularlyappeararoundourciderbarn

andratherironicallygiventhisrecipeunderourhawthornhedgeWethinkpartridgesaretheperfectsizeforthehungrycookItisworth

followingtherulelsquoroasttheyoungpottherestrsquondashasomewhatbrutalmantrabutveryusefulnonethelessOlderbirdsarewonderfulinstewsandcasserolesslowcookeduntilthemeatistenderAyoungpartridgestillhasaslightlypliablebeakandclawsanditsbreastbonewillbesmallerthanthatofanolderbirdWenormallyhangpartridgeforfivedaysorsoinacooldryplaceThemixofflavoursandtexturesinthisrecipemightappear

overcomplicatedbuttheresultistremendousItscreationwasgreetedwithnothinglessthancomicair-punchinginthekitchenTheplumpbirdsitsonbreadsaucefragrantwithitsgentlehintofcloveThefondantpotatoesandcavoloneroprovidebutterandwelcomeacidityrespectivelyThehawthornjellyiscleansweetandtartflecksofOgleshieldcheesemarrywellwiththeflavourofclovesandthesweetnessofthehawthornOgleshieldcheeseismadeinSomersetbyJamieMontgomeryusingunpasteurisedmilkfromasmallherdofJerseysHewasheshistrucklesleavingacheesethatisverylikeracletteonlybetterThisdishisbestenjoyedwithaglassofourhouseVermouth(seehere)

ThebotanicalsinthedrinkgreetthecloveinthebreadsaucelikeanoldfriendwhilethecaramelinthehawthornjellymatchestheinitialsweetnessperfectlyTheadditionoforangetothisrecipecameaftertastingthevermouthwithwhatwethoughtwasthefinalversionHavingabloodorangehandyMatthewlayeredhawthornjellybreadsaucepartridgecheeseandapinchoforangezestinaspoonforeachofusandwealltookitinturnstoswigatthevermouthTheflavourcombinationsparkedimmediately(weshouldconfessthatthenegronicocktailisafavouritehereatBarleyWood)

SERVES44red-leggedpartridgesadrizzleofrapeseedoil4bayleaves4slicesofsourdoughbreadHawthornJelly(seehere)forbrushingandtoserve100gOgleshieldCheeseorotherraclette-stylecheeseofthehighestorderfinelyshaved

zestof1bloodorange(orordinaryorange)FondantPinkFirPotatoes(seehere)toserveseasaltandblackpepper

FORTHEBRININGSOLUTION

15litreswater90gseasalt2tbspjuniperberries4cloves2tspcorianderseeds1tspblackpeppercorns

FORTHEBREADSAUCE

300mlmilk2tbspdoublecream60gyellowonionroughlychopped2goodpinchesofgroundcloves1bayleaffrac12tspEnglishmustardfrac12tspsalt

75gstalebreadcutinto25cmcubes

FORTHECAVOLONERO

200gblackcabbage(cavolonero)orredkaleroughlychoppedadrizzleofrapeseedoil1tbspcidervinegar

PutalltheingredientsforthebrineinapanandbringtotheboilstirringtodissolvethesaltLeavetocoolandthenchillPlacethepartridgesinthechilledbriningsolutionmakingsuretheyarecompletelysubmergedandleavetheminthefridgefor1frac14hours

DrainthebirdsanddiscardthebrinePatthemdryonkitchenpaperandsetaside(Whileweareonthesubjectofchillingthevermouthoughttobeinthefridgebynow)TomakethebreadsauceputalltheingredientsexceptthebreadinasaucepanandbringtoasimmerCookgentlyfor10ndash15minutesuntiltheonioniscompletelysoftRemovethebayleafandclovestransferthemixturetoablenderandblitzuntiltheonionisincorporatedintothemilkAddthebreadandallowthebreadtosoakforacoupleofminutesbeforeblitzinguntilsmoothTasteandaddmoreseasoningifnecessaryForaverysmoothbreadsaucepassitthroughafinesievegentlypressingwiththebackofasmallladleKeepwarmuntilreadytoserve

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6LightlycoatthepartridgesinoilthenseasonwithsaltandpepperPlaceabayleafinthecavityofeachbirdandputthemonabakingtrayrestingeachoneonasliceofthebreadRoastintheovenfor12ndash15minutesuntillightlycolouredndashtheyshouldstillbepinkinsideBrushalightglazeofhawthornjellyoverthebirdsandreturnthemtotheovenfor3minutesLeavethebirdstorestinawarmplacefor10minutesbeforeserving

ForthecavoloneroheatafryingpanandaddafilmofoilAddthecabbageandseasonwithseasaltCookoveramedium-highheattossingregularlytopreventscorchinguntiltheleavesstarttowiltAddthecidervinegarandcookbrieflyuntilevaporatedRemovethecabbagefromthepanandsetaside

ToassemblethedishspoonsomebreadsauceontoeachservingplateFlake

ToassemblethedishspoonsomebreadsauceontoeachservingplateFlakeovershavingsoftheOgleshieldtheywillmeltastheylandonthesaucePlacethebirdsontopthenaddthecavoloneroalongwithdollopsofhawthornjellyScatterovertheorangezestandservewiththefondantpotatoesAdmireyourdinnerfornolongerthanittakestopourthevermouthtableside

WASSAIL

OurannualWassailtakesplaceinearlyJanuaryTheCeltsviewedthistimeofyearasthegatewayfromdarknesstolightwhenallofnatureawakesAsrecentlyastheearlytwentiethcenturywholevillagesndasheldersandinfantsalikendashwouldcongregateintheorchardsandsingshoutandbangoutroughmusiconpotsandpanstowakethetreespiritsfromtheirwinterslumberandwardofftheevilspiritsthatmightharmthetreesrsquofertilityItwasachancetothrowasidetheacceptedhierarchiesandasenseofchaosprevailedCentraltothiseventwastheWassailcupacommunaldrinkofmulledciderandspicethatwaspassedfromhandtohandtotoasttheappletreeOnedrinkthatwerituallypassaroundwhenwewassailisLambrsquosWool(seehere)

LambrsquosWool

WassailisacuriouseveningatBarleyWoodamixoffoodmusicfireandgnarledappletreesOnedrinkthatwealwaysserveatWassailisaconcoctioncalledlambrsquoswoolndasharichsmoothcombinationofaleapplesandspicesthatpre-datesandoutstripsmulledciderandisperfectforcoldoutdooreveningsThisdrinklikemanyrecipesthathavebeenpasseddownandaroundhas

amistyparentagebutthenameseemstooriginatefromtheCelticlamhrsquossuilmeaninghandandeyeWecanonlyimaginethatthisalludestotheco-ordinationyouwillneedtomakethisdrinkitsfrothytoplooksjustlikelambrsquoswool

SERVES46largeBlenheimOrangeapples(orBramleys)coredandleftwhole15litresBoxSteamBreweryDarkandHandsomeorotherdarkbeer250gdemerarasugarfrac12nutmeggrated1thumb-sizedpieceoffreshgingerpeeledandfinelysliced1cinnamonstick1staranise

Heattheovento160degCGasMark3Placetheapplesonabakingsheetandbakefor1houroruntilsoftRemoveandleavetocool

PutthebeeranddemerarasugarinadeeppanandbringtoasimmerstirringtodissolvethesugarAddthespicesandsimmerfor10minutesSqueezetheapplefleshfromtheskinsandpassitthroughafinesieveRemovethespicesfromthebeerthenwhiskintheapplepulpoverahighheatBringtotheboilstirringallthetimeThehardwhiskingwillcreatethewoollytoponthelambrsquoswool

ServeinglassessilvertankardsorthecommunalWassailcupndashifyouhaveone

ForustheWassailisachancetocelebratethediversityofourorchardanacknowledgementofthemagicofapplesarebellionagainstthecolddarkdepthsofwinterItisacrucialpartofourrelationshipwiththelandandwefeelitisimportanttoinvolveandengageeveryonecitydwellersandcountryfolkalikewiththeseasonsForthatreasonwehaveendedupwithabeautifulandcompletelymadfestivalthatcentresonfoodfriendshipandhappinessRestoringthisancienttraditiontoBarleyWoodhasbeenagreatsuccesswithhundredsoflocalsandBristoliansjoininguseachyearItwasourfriendsandartisancheesemakersTimandAngelaofHomewoodCheeseswhoguidedusthroughourfirstWassailWassailnightiswithoutfailoneofthecoldestnightsoftheyearatthe

WalledGardenThefrostformssilentlyovertheorchardsandvegetablepatchesAtfirstwedonrsquotnoticeitTorchbearersleadtheWassailprocessiontakingustotheoldesttreeintheorchardItisthenthatwelookaroundandrealisewearesurroundedbyshimmeringiceThentheceremonybegins

realisewearesurroundedbyshimmeringiceThentheceremonybegins

JanetrsquosJungleJuiceIcewithCheddar99Flake

Weareveryfortunatetobesituatedrightinthemiddleofoneofthemostprominentcider-producingareasinSomersetWehaveagreatnumberofso-calledciderapplesinourorchardandhavehadafairshotatmakingourownciderThebestresultshavecomefromusingoneofourfavouritevarietiesMorganSweetDespiteafewgoodattemptsthoughwecanhonestlysaythatweareyet

tomatchtheciderproducedbyWestCroftinBrentKnollSomersetItisresponsibleforthedelectablebeverageaptlynamedJanetrsquosJungleJuiceoraswelazilycallitJJJThiscloudyciderhasprovedextremelypopularatour

welazilycallitJJJThiscloudyciderhasprovedextremelypopularatourannualWassailItismadefromtraditionalEnglishciderapplescollectedfromWestCroftrsquosownorchardwheremanyofthetreespre-datetheFirstWorldWarTheyarealltraditionalSomersetciderapplesKingstonBlackMorganSweetSheeprsquosNoseBrownSnoutChiselJerseyYarlingtonMillDabinettandMichelinWestCroftdoesnotaddsugartomakeJJJstrongerandthenwateritdownasmanycidermakersdoInsteaditismadefrom100percentcider-applejuiceWerarelyhaveanyleftbytheendofWassaileveningwhichiswhywealwayskeepbackasupplylsquoforstaffrsquoIthelpsfocusthemindwhenalltheguestshaveleftandwearefacedwithamajorclear-upintheearlyhoursofthemorningWecameupwiththisfrozendessertintheweekfollowingourfirst

WassailItseekstoencapsulatesomeofthemainelementsofWassaileveningallowingustocontinuethefestivitiesforthatlittlebitlongeralbeitinamorerefinedandsubduedmanner

SERVES6ndash81litreJanetrsquosJungleJuice(orgoodroughdryscrumpycider)60gcastersugar65mlciderbrandy150gKeenrsquosCheddarcuttorectangularlsquo99rsquoflakeshapesmintleavespreferablyappleminttogarnish

PutashallowmetaltrayinthefreezertochillCombinethecidersugarandciderbrandyinabowlandstiruntilthesugardissolvesPourthemixtureintothechilledtrayandplaceinthefreezerLeaveuntilitisbeginningtofreezearoundtheedgesandthenstirthoroughlyEvery30minutesorsostirwithaforkcrushinganylumpsuntiltheiceisfirmbutnotfrozensolidndashthiswilltakeabout3hoursTransfertoacontainerwithalidandstoreinthefreezer

ServetheiceinteacupsorglasseswiththeCheddarlsquoflakesrsquoaddedgarnishedwithmintleaves

RabbitConfitwithLovageBreadcrumbs

Makingaconfitorcookingslowlyinfatisatraditionalwayofpreservingmeat(seehere)AttheWalledGardenwedoitprimarilyinautumntopreservethelegsofthegamethatcomesinThiscarriesusthroughuntilwinterwhenproduceismorescarceShortlyafterwearrivedattheWalledGardenwediscoveredtoour

dismaythattherewasnolovagegrowingthereSoMarkplantedlovageseedsalongthewestwallinthealreadydiverseherbgardenandwewaitedbuttheplantsfailedtoappearWesoonfoundoutthatlikeallgoodthingslovageneedstimetodevelopForayearMatthewharvesteditfromtheplantoverrunninghisowngardenathomeandbroughtitintoservicetherestaurantThisplanthasbeenuprootedduringtwohousemovesndashaprocessthatleftMatthewrsquoshandsreekingoflovageforaweekafterwardsLovageisveryversatileandeasytogrowonceestablishedsodogiveita

goTheseedsarefullofcharacterandflavourandcanbedriedandpreservedwhiletheleavesaddanewdimensiontosaladsandstocksThisrecipeisanidealwaytousethevaluableseedswhichhavecelerytonesthatmatchthesweetrabbitfleshndashifyoudonrsquothaveanylovageseedsyoucouldtryceleryseedsinsteadMakingtherabbitintoaconfitkeepsthesometimes-dryfleshchin-drippinglyjuicyForperfectlycrispbreadcrumbsyouneedtothinkintermsofevendryingratherthantoastingFollowthemethodbelowforsuccesseverytime

SERVES42ConfitRabbits(seehere)150gstalebreadcutinto25cmcubes15glovageseedsroughlycrushedinapestleandmortar2eggyolkslightlybeatentoastedsourdoughbreadtoservebakedonions(seemethod)toservemixedsaladleavestoserveDarkPlumChutney(seehere)toserveHeattheovento180degCGasMark4Ifyouhavemadetheconfitrabbitinadvancewarmthejarinapanof

lightlysimmeringwatersothefatbecomesliquidthenremovethelegsandlaythemonabakingtray

BlitzthebreadandlovageseedstogetherinafoodprocessortomakefinebreadcrumbsSpreadthecrumbsevenlyonabakingtrayandplaceintheovenCookfor6ndash10minutesremovingthetrayevery2minutesandturningthecrumbsItwillquicklybecomeapparentwhereyourovenhashotspotsandcoolerareasContinueuntilthecrumbsareevenlydriedandlightlycoloured

BrushtherabbitwiththebeateneggyolkandcoatwiththepungentbreadcrumbsPlaceintheovenfor8minutesthenremoveandleavetorestfor2minutes

Servetherabbitwithlightlytoastedsourdoughbreadandifyoulikesomebakedonions(placewholeskin-ononionsintheovenforanhouruntiltender)saladleavesandDarkPlumChutney

CONFIT

ThistechniqueissoinvaluablesosimplesoversatileandonceyoumasterittherewillalwaysbesomethingrobustandepicureaninthefridgetoheatupatthelastminuteinanemergencyConfitisaFrenchtechniquethatwasdevelopedbeforerefrigerationandtranslatesaslsquopreservedrsquoAlongsidecuringsmokinganddryingitisinvaluabletoanyonewhowantstoeatwiththeseasonsGamecanbepreservedthroughthewintermonthswellintospringToughercutssuchasducklegsbenefitfromthelongcookingprocesswhilethefatinwhichtheyarecookedcanbeusedafterwardsAlayerofporkfatsealsthetopcompletelyandconfitcanbestoredinacoolcellarwithnoriskofspoilageThefatcanalsobereusedagainandagainreheatedwithalittlemoresaltaddedContainerssuchastall-sidedpreservingjarscanningjarsandKilnersarebesttoreheatjustwarmthejarinapanoflightlysimmeringwatertoloosenthefatremovetheducklegsandbakeintheovenfor8ndash10minutesIfyoursquoreseriousaboutyourconfitasmallinvestmentofthirtyquidcan

buyahomevacuumsealerWrappedinpolythenebagsmeatneedsonlyatablespoonoffatarounditandtheairissuckedoutofthepackagingThisrecreatesthesameairlessenvironmentasthatofthefatstoragemethodabovewhilerequiringlessspaceinthefridgeandlessoftherawingredientSaltandspicesareusedfirsttodrawmoisturefromthemeatFollowthe

spiceguidebelowforsuggestedseasoningsbutdotryyourownblendsTheweightofsaltistheoneconstanttoadheretosetat4gperlegscaleaccordingtothisBlendorcrushthesaltsandspicestogetherleavingthewoodybayleaveswholeCoveryourchosencutsinthissaltmixtureforaminimumof12andmaximumof36hoursWashthemeatundercoldwatertoremovetheresidualsaltandherbsPlaceaboutthreekilosofgoosefatinatall-sidedovenproofpanHeatthefattoloosenitandlaythelegsinitAddmorefatifneededasthelegsneedtobefullysubmergedSettheovento90degC(orthelowestpossibleovensetting)andcookfor5ndash6hoursTheoilshouldnrsquotbubbleatthistemperaturesoturndownthetemperaturebyfivedegreesifthatrsquoshappening

Oppositeareourrecommendedquantitiesfordifferenttypesofmeatusing

OppositeareourrecommendedquantitiesfordifferenttypesofmeatusingthecookinginstructionsgivenaboveWehavealsogivenarecipeforconfittomatoesasthiscookingmethodconcentratestheflavoursinspectacularfashion

ConfitMeats

FORCONFITDUCK

3kggoosefat12ducklegs48gfineseasalt12gstaranise6gblackpeppercorns3gclovepowder6gfennelseeds6bayleaves

FORCONFITCHICKEN

3kggoosefat12chickenlegs48gfineseasalt12gjuniperberries6gblackpepper3gclovepowder6bayleaves

FORCONFITRABBIT

frontandhindlegsfrom4rabbits3kggoosefat48gsalt12glovageseeds6gblackpeppercorns

3gfennelseeds8driedlavenderflowers6bayleaves

ConfitTomatoeswithRuffleBasil

TomatoesareblimminrsquomarvellouswhencookedlikethisAlthoughnotsubmergedinfattheyarecookedoveralayerofrapeseedoilwithalittlemoredrizzledoverthemessentiallypreservingthemwithfat

6tomatoesrapeseedoilbasilorthymeseasalt

Preheattheovento120degCGasMarkfrac12

CutacrossinthebottomofthetomatoesanddropthemintosimmeringwaterforacoupleofminutesRemovewithaslottedspoonandpeelofftheskinsQuarterthetomatoesscoopoutthefleshandseeds(youcanretaintheseformakingtomatoessenceseebelow)andyouareleftwithtomatofleshshards

LineabakingsheetwithfoilBrushwithrapeseedoilandplacethetomatoesontopDustwithsaltandyourchosenherbPlaceintheovenfor90minutesCheckthemattheendofthistimeandturnthemovertheyneedtobemostlydrybutstillpliableReturntotheovenforafurther10minutesifneedsbe

TomaketomatoessenceplacetheseedsinafinesieveandsquashthroughwithaspoonPlacetheliquidoveralow-mediumheattoboilslowlyitwillreduceandreachtheconsistencyofpassataAddapinchofsaltandsugartothisintenselyflavouredsavourysauceUseasagarnishforanyfoodthatpairswithtomato

BeefBrisketSlow-roastedinCoffeeSaucewithValorMash

UsingthehumblercutsofmeatisanEthicureanprerequisiteBrisketisarelativelyinexpensivecutallowingustomaximisethebeastrsquosworthandminimiseourcostswhileeatingexceptionallywellAskyourbutchertoboneandrollitwithallitslovelycollagenandfatintactCollagenwillonlybreakdownataround70degCsobrisketneedsalonggentlecookAmeatthermometerwillhelpnoendinperfectingthisroastMoistureisalsovitalandthiscreatesampleopportunityforseasoningwithalesandsaucesTheroastedsmokyrichnessofcoffeemakesitoneofbeefrsquosclosestyet

largelyoverlookedalliesOurcoffeesupplierisExtractrunbythreeenthusiastswhoroastalloftheircoffeeinavintage1955cast-ironProbatroasterSamDavidandMarkrebuiltandconditionedthisfinecontraptionthemselvesanditlooksasifitcouldhavebeenbuiltbyWallaceandGromitWeregularlytakeourstafftoExtracttoseetheentireprocessfromrawbeantocupandtoloseafewhoursinconversationwithexperts

SERVES415kgbeefbrisketrolledandtiedalittleoilasmallbunchofthymeseasalt

FORTHECOFFEESAUCE

140gtomatopureacutee500mlwater100mlespressocoffee2tbspcidervinegarfrac12tspsmokedpaprika1tbsppaprika1tspgroundcumin1chipotlechillideseededandcrushed

FORTHEVALORPOTATOMASH

15kgValorpotatoes(DesireeRemarkaandKingEdwardalsoworkwell)peeledandcutintoeven-sizedchunks125mlmilk

125gbutter

Heattheovento220degCGasMark7RubthebrisketwithoilandsprinklethethymeleavesoverPlaceitinashallowroastingtrayandroastfor30minutesuntilcolouredslightlyRemovefromtheovenandlowerthetemperatureto140degCGasMark1

MeanwhilemixallthesauceingredientstogetherTransferthebriskettoadeeproastingtinandpouroverthesauceCoverthetintightlywithfoilusing2layersifnecessarytocreateatightsealReturntotheovenandcookforabout4hoursuntilverytenderifyouhaveameatthermometeritshouldregister70degC

ForthemashputthepotatoesinapanofcoldwaterwithatablespoonofsaltandbringthemveryslowlytoasimmerCookuntilverysoftbutnotfallingapartDrainthroughacolanderplacethecolanderoverthepanandreturnthepantotheswitched-offhobndashtheresidualheatfromthecookerwillallowthepotatoestosteamdryTheycanbeleftfor10minutesorsowhileyouheatthemilkandbutter

Placethemilkandbutterinapanwithfrac12teaspoonofsaltandheatgentlyuntilthebutterhasmeltedPassthepotatoesthroughapotatoricerintothewarmedbutterandmilk(apotatoricerisaninvaluabletoolforcreatinglighteven-texturedmashonceyoursquovetriedoneyoursquollwonderwhyyouevermademashanyotherway)Stirtocombinethentastetodecidewhetheryouwouldpreferalittlemoresalt

Whenthebeefisreadyremovefromtheovenandleavetorestforabout15minutesbeforecarvingServewiththemash

PigeonBreastswithBeetrootPearlBarleyandBordelaiseSauce

TheironyofservingpigeonandpearlbarleytogetherisnotlostonmanyofourcustomersparticularlythefarmerswhoeatwithusTheyhaveseenmanyagreedywoodpigeonfeastingontheirbarleycropBordelaisesauceisaslowlyreducedmixofstockandredwineWeliketouseDetroitbeetrootwiththepearlbarleyasitcontainsthemostmoleculesofgeosminthesmellthatwerecogniseasmoistsoil

SERVES44woodpigeonbreastsremovedandskinned(savethecarcassestouseforstockifyoulike)

alittleoil4largehandfulsofkalelargestalksremovedaknobofbutterseasaltandblackpeppersmokedsalttoserve(optional)

FORTHEBEETROOTPEARLBARLEY

300gpearlbarley1mediumbeetrootpeeledandcutinto1cmcubes200mlbrownchickenstock(seehere)FORTHEBORDELAISESAUCE

400mlredwine35gshallotsfinelychopped60gcarrotsfinelychopped40gmushroomsfinelychopped1tbspchoppedparsley2sprigsofthyme8peppercorns1bayleaf500mlbeefstock(seehere)

Rinsethepearlbarleyinasieveundercoldrunningwaterforafewminutes

RinsethepearlbarleyinasieveundercoldrunningwaterforafewminutestoremoveexcessstarchPlaceinasaucepancoverwithcoldwaterandbringtotheboilDrainandrinseundercoldrunningwateragainReturnthebarleytothepanandcovergenerouslywithwaterBringtotheboilreducetheheatandsimmerfor15minutesAddthebeetrootandcookfor20ndash30minutesuntilthebeetrootisaldenteandthebarleytenderDrainandreturnthebarleyandbeetroottothepanAddthechickenstockandcookoveramediumheatfor5ndash10minutesstirringregularlyuntilthebarleyhasabsorbedthestockandisglazedinappearanceSeasonwithsalttotaste

MeanwhilemakethebordelaisesaucePutalltheingredientsexceptthebeefstockinasaucepanandbringtoasimmerCookuntiltheliquidhasreducedtoabout2tablespoonsAddthestockandsimmerfor10ndash15minutesthenstrainintoapanCookoveramediumheatuntilthesaucelightlycoatsthebackofaspoonSeasonwithsalttotaste

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6LightlyoilthepigeonbreastsandseasononbothsidesPlacealargeovenprooffryingpanoverahighheatOncethepanissmokinghotaddathinfilmofoilPlacethepigeonbreastsinthepanskinned-sidedownLeavefor15secondsoruntillightlybrownedunderneaththenturnthemovergentlypressdownwithafishsliceandtransferthepantotheovenforabout3minutesthemeatshouldstillgivealittlewhenyoupressitwithafingerRemoveandtransfertoawarmplatetorestfor10minutesMeanwhilecookthekaleinalargepanofboilingsaltedwateruntiltender(nomorethan45seconds)Drainwellbeingsuretostrainoffasmuchliquidaspossibleandtosswiththeknobofbutter

Spoonthebarleyonto4servingplatesandarrangethekalearounditSliceeachpigeonbreastinto3andplaceontopPourthesauceoverandsprinklewithalittlesaltorsmokedsalt

SteamedLemonSolewithFondantPinkFirsGoldenBeetrootandNasturtiumRemoulade

ThedelicatefleshandsubtleflavouroflemonsolearebestpreservedbysteamingInanattempttoprotecttheyoungerfishandpreventdepletionofthespeciesCornwallhasenforcedabyelawthatonlylemonsolelongerthan25cmcanbefishedTherearenosuchrestrictionsintheEUsoyoushouldtryasfaraspossibletobuysolethathavebeenfishedsustainablyWheneveryoubuyfishitrsquosworthcheckingtheMarineConservationSocietyrsquosonlineguidetoseafood(wwwfishonlineorg)whichratesthesustainabilityofeachspeciesonascaleofonetofiveWehadforawhilebeendebatingwhatwerethebestaccompaniments

tofishwithallofusagreeingthatcapersfeaturedhighonthelistUnfortunatelytheytendtogrowonlyinwarmerclimatesandwewantedtouseahomegrownalternativeNasturtiumseedsfittedthebillperfectlyIfyoudonrsquothavenasturtiumsinyourgardenyoucouldofcourseusecapersRemouladeisamayonnaise-basedsaucetypicallymadewithfinelydiced

cornichonsorothergherkinsUsingwhatwehaveavailablecansometimesproveachallengebutinthisinstanceitproducedauniquesweetgoldenbeetrootsauce

SERVES42lemonsolefilleted400gpurplesproutingbroccoliseasalt

FORTHEGOLDENBEETROOTANDNASTURTIUMREMOULADE

1smallgoldenbeetroot215mlcidervinegar1tspgroundfennelseeds1eggyolk1tablespoonorchardhoney1teaspoonEnglishmustard1tspseasalt350mlrapeseedoil

350mlrapeseedoil1tbspPickledNasturtiumSeeds(seehere)chopped1tbspchoppedflat-leafparsley

FORTHEFONDANTPINKFIRS

1tbsprapeseedoil500gPinkFirApplepotatoes(orotherwaxypotatoes)cutinto4cmpieces250gbuttercutintocubes

FirstmaketheremouladePeelthebeetrootcutitinto1cmcubesandsaltitgenerouslyLeaveforabout10minutestodrawoutalittlemoistureThiswillaidthecrunchRinsethebeetrootbrieflyandputitinabowlBring200mlofthevinegartotheboilwiththegroundfennelpouritoverthebeetrootandleavetocool(Thevinegarwhichwillhaveanearthyflavourfromthebeetrootcanbesavedforsaladdressings)Placetheeggyolkhoneymustardsaltandtheremaining15mlvinegarinabowlandwhiskeitherwithanelectricwhiskonfullspeedfor1minuteorbyhandforalittlelongerThiswillallowtheacidstogotoworkontheeggproteinsAddtherapeseedoilinaveryslowtrickleandwatchtomakesureitisbeingfullyincorporatedwhilethemixercontinuestospinoryourarmisablurOncethemixturehasemulsifiedyoucanpourtheoilinalittlefasterEventuallythemixtureshouldhaveathickwobblyconsistencyDrainthebeetrootandstiritintogetherwiththepicklednasturtiumseedsandparsleyChilluntilreadytoservendashitwillkeepforacoupleofdaysinthefridge

Forthefondantpotatoesheattheovento200degCGasMark6PlacealargeovenprooffryingpanoveramediumheatuntilhotAddtheoilfollowedbythepotatoesandcookstirringuntilthepotatoesaregoldenalloverSeasonwithsaltandaddallthecubesofbutterplusasplashofwaterAllowthebuttertomeltthencoverthecontentsofthepanwithadiscofgreaseproofpaperPlaceintheovenandcookfor30ndash35minutesuntilaknifewillpassthroughthepotatoeswithlittleresistance

Seasonthesolefilletsrollthemupandspikeon4skewers(seephotographsopposite)YouwillneedatallpanwithalidtocookthefilletsontheirspikesBringafewcentimetresofwatertoasimmerinthepanthenstandtheskewersinitCoverandcookgentlyfor7ndash8minutesuntilthefishisjustcookedthroughRemovefromthepanandkeepwarm

Cookthebroccoliinapanofboilingsaltedwaterfor3ndash4minutesuntiljusttenderthendrainCarefullyremovethesolefromtheskewersandserveonthefondantpotatoesaccompaniedbythebroccoliandsplashesoftheremoulade

daggerNasturtiumsareavaluableplanttohaveinanygardenTheleavesattractblackflyandslugswhichmeansthattheseunwantedvisitorsleaveothernearbyplantsandvegaloneThewholeplantisediblewiththeflowerstastingmoremagnificentthanwildrocketTheirpepperytastemakesthemworthyoftheirnamewhichmeanslsquonosetwistrsquo(PickledNasturtium

Seedspicturedseehere)

SeaRobinwithFennelButterSauceandHerbedPinkFirs

GurnardusedtobesounprofitableforfishermenthatitwasmostlyusedasbaitordiscardedThankstoenvironmentalcampaignersandchefshoweverthespecieshasrecentlybeensuccessfullychampionedasfoodanditisindeedsuperblytastyItiswidelythoughtofasanuglyfishbutwethinkthatitspoutingmouthandbigblackeyeswouldnotbeoutofplaceinacartoonThegurnardrsquosancientnameoflsquosearobinrsquomadeitsinclusiononourmenu

essentialasitseemedsopertinenttoourlocationLegendhasitthatrobinsaretheguardiansoftheorchardsSearobinsgainedtheirnameduetotheirabilitytoproducesoundswiththeirswimbladdersandattachedmusclesItseemsthattheyareasrelentlesslyvocalasourlandrobinswhichsingallyearroundThedelicate-tastingskinofthisfishmakesasuperbmatchforthe

liquoricehintoffennelseedsFennelcanbeseenfloweringbetweenJulyandOctoberincentralandsouthernareasofEnglandandalongcoastlinesinWalesTheseedscanbekeptandusedallyearroundYouwillappreciatethataniseedadditiontoyourfoodinthedepthsofwinterwhenotherinterestingingredientsarescarceThesauceisavariationonaclassichollandaisemadewithroughlyhalf

theusualamountofbutterWeliketoservethiswithkale(seehere)

SERVES42gurnardscaledandfilletedadrizzleofoilaknobofbutterfineseasaltandblackpepper

FORTHEFENNELBUTTERSAUCE

100mlfishstock(seehere)75mlwhitewine1tspfennelseeds185gcoldbuttercutinto1cmcubes

adashofcidervinegar3eggyolks

FORTHEHERBEDPOTATOES

600gPinkFirApplepotatoes(orotherwaxypotatoes)cutinto4ndash5cmpieces

1tbsprapeseedorgroundnutoilaknobofunsaltedbutterahandfulofparsleychopped

Ensurethegurnardfilletsareasdryaspossiblebeforescoringtheskinwithasharpknifewithcuts1cmapart(Seeoppositeforourtipondryingthefishfillets)Tomakethesauceputthefishstockwhitewineandfennelseedsinasmallpanoveramedium-highheatandboiluntiltheliquidhasreducedto3or4tablespoonsStrainitintoaheatproofbowltoremovethefennelseedsandleavetocoolfor5minutes

AddtheeggyolkstothereducedstockandwhiskuntilfullyincorporatedSitthebowloverapanofbarelysimmeringwatermakingsurethewaterdoesnrsquottouchthebaseofthebowlWhiskthemixtureuntilitbecomesairyandthickndashlookforsoftpeaksasyouwouldwitheggwhitesAtthisstagewhiskinthebutterapieceatatimeensuringeachisfullyincorporatedbeforeaddingthenextAfterawhilelargerquantitiesofbuttercanbeaddedeachtimeSeasonwithfineseasaltandvinegartotasteTakethepanofftheheatbutleavethebowloverthewaterwhileyoucookthefishandstirthesauceregularlytopreventaskinforming

CookthepotatoesinboilingsaltedwateruntiltenderthendrainPlacealargeheavy-basedfryingpanoverahighheatWhenitishotaddtheoilquicklyfollowedbythepotatoesTosstocoatlightlywiththeoilandseasonwithfineseasalt

CookstirringuntilgoldenalloverthenaddthebutterandparsleyTossthroughandremovefromtheheat

Heatalargeheavy-basedfryingpanoveramedium-highheatVerylightlyoiltheskinofthegurnardfilletsandseasonwithalightevenlayeroffineseasaltandcrackedblackpepperPourathinfilmofoilintothehotfrying

seasaltandcrackedblackpepperPourathinfilmofoilintothehotfryingpanandaddthegurnardskin-sidedownCookoveramediumheatwithoutturningormovingthefishfor2ndash3minutesuntiltheskinturnsgoldenbrownFlipthefilletsovertakethepanofftheheatandaddalargeknobofbutterLeavetorestfor5minutesndashthefishwillfinishcookingintheheatofthepanToservespoontheherbedpotatoesintothecentreofeachplateandpressdownwiththebackofthespoontocrushthemslightlyPlacethegurnardfilletsontopandspoonagenerousamountofthesaucearoundthepotatoes

LiquidshighinaciditysuchascitrusjuiceandvinegarcanbeusedasflavourenhancersmuchlikesaltItrsquosnotnecessarilythetasteofvinegarorcitrusthatwewantinthesaucebuttheyliftrichheavyflavoursprovidingawelcomeacidityandacleaner

tasteWhenusedasaseasoningvinegarshouldnotbenoticeableIfitisobviousthenyoursquoveusedtoomuch

ToachieveacrispskinonthefishasmuchmoistureaspossiblemustberemovedbeforecookingLaythefilletsskin-sideuponaboardRunaknifebladeangledslightlydownthefilletfromtheheadendtothetailendusingtheknifeasasqueegeetopushthemoisturedownandoutoftheskinUsekitchenpapertowipeoffthemoisturethatcollectsontheknifeandatthetailendofthefishRepeatuntiltheskinfeelsdrytothetouchFlipthefillets

overandwithasharpknifecuteachoneinhalfataslightangleTurnthefilletsskin-sideupagainandscoretheskinwithcuts1cmapartAverysharpknifeorascalpelwillcomeinhandyhereBesurenottocutintothefleshndashitrsquosonlytheskinyou

wanttoscoreThishelpsstopthefilletscurlingintheheatofthepan

PineappleTurmericandGingerGlazedHamwithlsquoPiccalillirsquo

SaladsdonotgetmuchbetterthanthisoneGammonandpineapplehavebeenafamiliarcombinationonpubmenusfordecadesThereissciencebehindthispairingasweoftenfindwhenweanalyseclassicfoodcombinationsPineapplecontainstheenzymebromelainwhichisanaturaltenderiserformeatMexicoalsohasabromelainandporkloveaffairascanbeseenatthetacosalpastorstandsThisoutrageouslyscoffablestreetfoodcomprisessmallcorntacosfilledwithshavingsofporkthathasbeengrilled

underpineappleThejuicedripsontothemeatasitcookscaramelisingandtenderisingitintheprocessIntheUKthepineappleusedtobeasymbolofwealthandhospitality

ParticularlyduringtheeighteenthcenturypossessionofthisspikyfruitwassoprestigiousthattherewasaproliferationofpineapplepitsincountryhousesacrossBritainApineapplepitwasademonstrationoftremendousgrowingskillanddedicationTheenergyneededtogrowthistropicalfruitismonumentalndashtheprocessinvolvedamixtureofmoistheatfromfermentingoakbarkorhorsemanureintheeartharoundthepineappleandanintricatesetoffurnacesandchimneysforadditionalheatTherearetheruinedremainsofapineapplepitonprivatelyownedlandverynearBarleyWoodItbelongedtotheslave-tradeabolitionistWilliamWilberforceafriendandallyofourBarleyWoodbenefactorHannahMorewhobuiltBarleyWoodHouseinthelateeighteenthcenturyDuringDecemberpineapplesfromtheCaribbeanareinseasonTryto

findFairtradefruitthatsmellssweetatthebaseThisindicatesthatithasbeenpickedclosetoripenessaspineapplesdonotripenfurtherafterbeingpicked

SERVES8GENEROUSLY

1largepineapple250ggoldengranulatedsugar3tbspgroundturmeric50gfreshgingerpeeledandfinelydiced1ndash2kgfree-rangecookedham

FORTHEPICCALILLI

200gcidervinegar100gcastersugar20corianderseedsfrac12tspdriedchilliflakes100gshallotstoppedandtailedslicedinhalfthroughthetopsandseparatedintoindividuallayers1tbspgroundturmeric

100gcauliflowerflorets

100gGlazedStarAnisecarrots(seehere)Heattheovento200degCGasMark6TopandtailthepineappleandcutawaythespikyskinCutthefleshawayfromthecoreandplaceinablenderorfoodprocessorPulsetillsmooththenstrainthemixturethroughasievepressingwiththebackofaspoontoextractthejuiceReserve35mlofthejuiceforthesaladdressing(youwonrsquotneedtherest)PutthepulpinabowlandmixwiththesugarturmericandgingerThisistheglazingmixturefortheham

Placethehamflat-sidedownonabakingsheetandspreadtheglazingmixturethicklyoveritCookfor30ndash40minutesuntiltheglazeiscaramelisedSetasidetocool

ForthepiccalilliheatthevinegartoboilingpointaddthesugarandstiruntildissolvedAddthecorianderseedschilliflakesandshallotsandbringbacktoasimmerRemovetheshallotswithaslottedspoonandsetasidetocoolAddtheturmerictothehotliquidfollowedbythecauliflowerfloretsBringtoasimmerthenstirwellRemovefromtheheatandleavethecauliflowertocoolintheyellowvinegarItwillpickupthecolouroftheturmericasitcools

FORTHESALADDRESSING

85mlcold-pressedrapeseedoilorgroundnutoil25mlcidervinegar35mlpineapplejuice1tspgroundstaranise1tspDijonmustard2pinchesofsalt

FORTHESALAD

200gMiikepurplegiantleaves(orothermustardysaladleaves)100gsaladleaves(weuseamixtureofredfrillwatercressandlandcress)100gwinterlettuceleavesabunchofcorianderabunchofchrysanthemumleavesifavailable

Tomakethedressingplacealltheingredientsinablenderandblenduntilemulsified

emulsified

ArrangeallthesaladleavesonservingplatesreservingafewofthesmallerredfrillforgarnishIfithelpstocuttheMiikepurplegiantdownthendosoSlicethehamandplaceacoupleofslicesontopoftheleavesintertwinedwithpiecesofthedeconstructedpiccalilliFinishbylightlydrizzlingoverthedressingandgarnishingwiththereservedleaves

GlazedStarAniseCarrots

300gcarrotspeeledandcutinto25cmchunks20gsaltedbutter2staranise1tspsugarpinchoffineseasalt

HeatapanoveramediumheatThepanshouldbebigenoughtoholdthecarrotsinasinglelayerWhenthepanishotaddthebutter(thebuttershouldsizzlebutnotburn)ThesecondthesizzlingsubsidesaddthestaraniseandcarrotsTossthecarrotsthroughthebuttertocoatevenlythenaddthesugarandsaltAddabout330mlcoldwatertothepan(enoughtoalmostcoverthecarrots)andturntheheatuptohighItmaytake5ndash10minutesforthewatertoalmostfullyreduceandthenthecarrotswillbegintosizzleagainStirthecarrotsvigorouslysothattheybegincaramelisingevenlyonallsidesWhentheyareanevengoldencolourremovefromthepanandservestraightaway

daggerAnumberofapplestastingremarkablylikepineapplecanbefoundinBritishorchardsExamplesinourorchardareRibstonPippinand

BlenheimOrangePitmastonPineapplewasmostlikelygrownfromaGoldenPippinseedlingbyJohnWilliamsin1845atPitmastonHouseinWorcesterThissmallsweetandrussetapplehasremarkablepineappletonesandyellowflesh

WINTERSALADS

MarkthegardenergrowshiswintersaladleavesinpolytunnelsatthebottomofthewalledgardenTheyrsquoreonaraisedplatformhoveringoverthefieldbelowDuringwinterwecanusuallytellwhetherMarkisinbyatrailingplumeofsmokefromthelittlestovethatheatshiskettleHealsothrowstogetheranexcellentvegetablestewthatwilloftensitcookingonthestoveformostofthemorningTheviewthroughthetunnelsandoutoftheopendoorisawonderfulsightoverlookingthefieldbelowitgivestheimpressionofanentrancetoanotherworldThetunnelsareplantedwithanumberofleavesthatprovidefresh

succulenceandawelcomevitamininjectiontotheshortchillydaysofwinterInthesaladonhereweuseMiikepurplegiant(Brassicajuncea)ThisleafisclassedasavegetableandinsomeculturesisboiledandsteamedWeprefertoeatitrawandrelishitshotmustardflavourItisalsoanindicatoroftheweatherasitturnsadeeperpurpleasthetemperaturedropsOppositeMarkhasplantedwinterpurslane(Claytoniaperfoliata)AnativeofNorthAmericaitisalsoknownasminerrsquoslettuceasitwaseatenbyminerstofendoffscurvyIthasalily-pad-liketopandatendertrailingstemMatureleavesseethebloomingofatinyflowerthatpiercesthecentreInrecentyearsMarkhastakentogrowingchrysanthemumsfortheir

leavesTheyhaveadistinctivetangthatresemblespineapplePrisingitfromMarkrsquosmuddyfingersisatrickybusinessbutwellworthitAddingmoremustardheatandcolourisredfrillndashajaggedvarietycontainingtwoexcellentcompoundssinigrinandgluconasturtiinWhenthesinigrinintheleafisexposedtocompoundsintheairitreactsandcreatesmustardoilItisthisverymustardyoilthatgivesthedishonhereitsfireaperfectcomplementtothesweettenderham

EcclesCakeswithDorsetBlueVinnySauce

TherelationshipbetweensweetandsavouryisaninterestingoneSaltmakessweetingredientstastelessone-dimensionalsoyouperceivethemasbeingmoreflavourfulthantheyreallyarePerhapsthemostcommonexampleofthecombinationisourlong-standingtraditionofeatingcheesewithfruitNoonewouldraiseaneyebrowifyousuggestedaccompanyinganuttyRussetapplewithasliceofCheddarInYorkshirendashandinsomepartsofAmericandashservingapplepiewithapieceofcheeseiscommonplaceThisdishsprangfromtheBritishtraditionofpairingEcclescakeswitha

sliceofLancashirecheeseWestartedexperimentingwithanEcclescakerecipewhenweweretryingtofindsuitablepuddingsforasherryandgamenightattherestaurantWethoughtDorsetBlueVinnywouldbeaworthylocalalternativetoLancashirecheeseasitisequallycreamyyethasmoredepthHavingworkedoutthecorrectcheese-to-sherryratioforthesauce

depthHavingworkedoutthecorrectcheese-to-sherryratioforthesaucewepoureditovertheEcclescakesthathadjustcomeoutoftheovenhopingtheresultwouldbemorethanpalatableItworkedremarkablywellandhasbecomeourWestCountryversionofthetraditionalnortherndishWefeaturethisdessertregularlyonourdaytimemenuandfindthatsome

customersapproachitwithadegreeofnervousnessButweareyettomeetanyonewhodoesnotthoroughlyenjoyitswell-balancedquirkinessThesaucehasbecomesopopularthatcustomersoftenrequestitasanaccompanimenttowhichevercakehappenstobeonthedessertmenuWemustobservethatnoteverycakeisentirelycompatiblewiththesaucebutwhoarewetocurtailourcustomersrsquoinventiveness

MAKES14CAKES50gbutter90gdarksoftbrownsugar1frac34teaspoonsgroundmixedspice(seehereifyoursquodliketomakeyourown)270gcurrants

50gCandiedPeel(seehereorusegood-qualityboughtpeel)finelychopped1quantityofFlakyPastry(seehere)orgood-qualityshop-boughtpuffpastry1egglightlybeaten

demerarasugarforsprinkling

FORTHEDORSETBLUEVINNYSAUCE

250mldoublecream100gcastersugar40gDorsetBlueVinnycheese(orSticheltoncheese)crumbled50mlsweetsherrysuchasPedroXimeacutenezorBristolCream

Tomakethesauceputthecreamsugarcheeseandsherryinapan(includehalfthecurrantsifyouwanttoenrichtheflavouroftheEcclescakes)andheatgentlyuntilthecheesehasmeltedandthesauceissmoothStrainthroughasieveandsetaside(reservethecurrantsfortheEcclescakes)Thesaucecanbekeptinthefridgeforupto2weeks

TomaketheEcclescakesplacethebuttersugarandmixedspiceinasaucepanandheatthroughgentlystirringoccasionallyuntilthesugarhasmeltedintothebutterRemovefromtheheatandstirinthecurrants

meltedintothebutterRemovefromtheheatandstirinthecurrants(includingtheonesusedforthesauce)andthecandiedpeelSetasidetocool

Heattheovento180degCGasMark4TakethepastryoutofthefridgeandsetitonalightlyflouredsurfacewithoneoftheshortendsnearestyouRollouttoabout3mmthickUsingan11cmpastrycuttercutoutasmanyroundsasyoucanDividethefillinginto40gportionsandplaceoneportioninthecentreofeachcircleofpastryThismayseemlikealotbutitmakessensewhenyouareeatingthecakesNextyouneedtoenclosethecurrantmixtureinthepastryThiscanbequitetrickybutyouwillfindatechniquethatworksafteralittleplayingWedoitbypinching4lsquocornersrsquoofthecircletogetheroverthecurrantmixtureandthengentlyfoldingintheexcesspastryWhereyouarepinchingthepastrytogetherwillbetheundersidesoaslongasthefillingiscompletelyencloseditdoesnrsquotneedtolookperfectThepastryshouldsealitselfbutifnecessarybrushitverylightlywithwater

PlacetheEcclescakestherightwayupontheworksurfaceandshapeeachoneintoaneatroundwithaflattopThismayrequireasmallamountofmanipulatingUsingasharpknifeslash3horizontallinesacrossthetopLightlybrushthetopoftheEcclescakeswithbeatenegganddustwithdemerarasugarBakefor18minutesoruntilthepastryisgoldenbrownandcookedallthewaythroughTransfertoawireracktocoolfor10minutesthenservewiththesauceDingdangdoo

daggerMadefromthemilkthatisleftafterskimmingoffthefattomakebutterDorsetBlueVinnyisathriftywartimecheesebornoutoftheneednottowasteanythingItretainsitscreaminessbyreintroducingsemi-skimmedmilkpowdertothemilkonceitreachestheappropriatetemperatureLegendhasitthatthebacteriausedtobeintroducedbydraggingmouldyhorseharnessesthroughthemilkbeforeaddingtherennetandstoringthecheeseondampbagsnexttomouldybootsSadlyitisboringpenicillinbywayofblue-mouldsolutionnowadays

MilkStoutandChocolateSteamedPudding

ThisrecipeisacombinationoftwoofourfavouritethingsmilkstoutandaBritishsteamedpuddingWhenwefirstopenedTheEthicureanwedrankBristolBeerFactoryrsquoschilledmilkstoutonthelawnoverlookingthegardenIthadthemostremarkablebalanceofsweetnessandroastmaltthatwehadevertastedSincethisboozysummereveninglsquomilkstoutonthelawnrsquohasbecomeshorthandforlsquoHurryupletrsquosgoandhaveabeerrsquoMilkstoutwasfirstbrewedontheBristolBeerFactorysiteinthe1900s

anditsrecentrevivalwasanexcellentmoveDuringthebrewingprocessunfermentablelactosesugarisaddedgivingthebeeraresidualsweetness

unfermentablelactosesugarisaddedgivingthebeeraresidualsweetnessThispuddingservedwithaninappropriateamountofdoublecream

shouldberegardedasanewBritishclassic

SERVES6160mlBristolBeerFactoryrsquosmilkstout150gbuttercutintocubes235gcastersugar45gcocoapowder160gplainflour85mlsouredcream1largeegg2tspvanillaextract1frac12tspbicarbonateofsodadoublecreamtoserve

PlacethemilkstoutandbutterinasaucepanoverthelowestpossibleheatandwhiskuntilthebutterhasjustmeltedItisimportantnottooverheatthemixtureorthebutterwillsplitresultinginanoilypuddingAddthesugarandstiruntildissolved

Siftthecocoapowderandflourintothemixturein2lotswhiskingthoroughlyaftereachtoblendwellSetaside

LightlywhiskthesouredcreameggvanillaandbicarbonateofsodatogetheruntilcombinedAddthistothestoutandflourmixtureandwhiskbrieflytoincorporateoncemore

Thoroughlygreasea12litrepuddingbasinwithbutterAddthepuddingmixtureTakeapieceoffoillargeenoughtocoverthetopofthebasingenerouslyfoldingathickpleatinthecentre(thiswillallowthepuddingtoexpandduringsteaming)andplaceitonthebasintuckingtheedgesfirmlyundertherimPutthebasininasteamerbasketandsetitoverapancontainingabout10cmboilingwaterCoverandsteamoveralowheatfor2hourscheckingthewaterlevelevery30minutesandtoppingupwhennecessary

Removethebasinfromthesteamerandleavetostandfor5minutesTake

Removethebasinfromthesteamerandleavetostandfor5minutesTakeoffthefoilrunaknifearoundtheedgeofthepuddingthenturnitoutontoaplateYoursquollneedplentyofcreamasthispuddingisseriouslythirsty

PedroXimeacutenezandWhiskywithVermouthSmoke

EveryyearweholdasherryandgamenightpairingvarioussherrieswithatastingmenuofgamePedro-Ximeacutenez(PX)isalwaysthefavouritesherryandwelovepairingitwithEcclescakes(seehere)ThisvelvetysherryisthecolourofdarkwoodandwithitsraisinandcaramelflavourstastesalmostlikeChristmaspuddinginliquidformCombiningPXwithawhiskysuchasMacallan10YearOldFineOakandalittlevermouthsmokecreatesatotallyuniquecocktailEvenafterthelastfewdropshavebeendrunkmanycustomersaskforthedecantertostayonthetablesothattheycanbreatheinthelastofthetreaclesmoke

SERVES2100mlPX(welikeBodegasGutierrezColosiaPedroXimeacutenez)50mlwhisky(welikeMacallan10YearOldFineOakwhisky)

TOMAKEICESPHERES

WashlongballoonsoutbeforefillingthemwithwaterTieofftheballoonsandthenusestringtoseparatethemintothesizeofspherethatyouwouldlikeRememberthattheywillexpandastheyfreezeUsingdistilledwaterwillmeanthattheiceiscompletelyclearbuttheystilllookimpressivewhenmadewithtapwater

JackusesasmokeguntomakethisdrinkChillthePXandwhiskybystirringtogetherwithiceinamixingglassNextfilladecanterwithsmokeJackusesoakchipsthathavebeenusedtooakourVermouth(seehere)andthendriedPourthechilledliquidintothedecanterandpopinthestopperThesmokeshouldgraduallyformadensecloudPourintosmallglassesfilledwithplentyofice(weliketoputanicesphereineachglassseeleft)

Ifyoudonothaveaccesstoahandsmokeryoucanmakethisdrinkinabarbecuesmoker(seeTinCanandSolderingIronApproachhere)Placethedrinkinacontainerwithasmuchsurfaceareaaspossibleandleavetosmokefor1hour

NOTEWehaveexperimentedwithupscalingthisrecipeandbottlinglargerquantitiesthenleavingtomature(theNegronionherealsoupscales

wonderfully)WereuseSipsmithrsquosginbottles(thanksSipsmith)AtthetimeofwritingwehaveabottleofthiscocktailthatwasmixedthreemonthsagoWehavenoticedarealdevelopmentinthecomplexitiesofflavourastheelementsbegintofeatherinitbecomesdifficulttosensewhereonecomponentendsandanotherbegins

FennelSeedandGingerHotChocolate

WefirsttastedthiscombinationofchocolateherbandspiceattheAbergavennyFoodFestivalOurstallhappenedtobenexttothatofthechocolatierPaulAYoungandheverykindlygaveusafewofhiscreationstotasteWewerestruckbythesweetfragrantalmostmedicinalqualityofhismilkchocolatewithfennelseedandgingerOncethecoldweathercaughtupwithusatTheEthicureanweexperimentedwithafewhotchocolaterecipesandsettledonthisonewhichwethinkcapturestheessenceofPaulrsquosideaRomanescofennelseedsareharvestedatBarleyWoodwhentheseed

headsturnbrownThewholeheadscanbeputinapaperbagtodryAfterafewweeksastrongshakewilldeposittheseedsatthebottomofthebagTheseseedsareattheirabsolutebestwhentheyarestillalittlegreenTomakethefennelsugarwhizequalquantitiesofgranulatedsugarandfennelseedstogetherinablenderorfoodprocessorItcanbeaddedtoallsortsofdesserts

SERVES2COMFORTABLY

400mlmilk100gdarkchocolatewith70ndash73percentcocoasolidsgratedplusalittleextratofinish(weuseOriginalBeanschocolate)1tspgroundginger

20gdarkmuscovadosugarapinchofsalt2tspfennelsugar100mldoublecream

Gentlyheathalfthemilkinapanandaddthegratedchocolategingermuscovadosugarsaltandmostofthefennelsugar(saveapinchforsprinkling)StiruntilthechocolatehasmeltedintothemilkthenwhiskintheremainingmilkandthecreamDonotallowthemixturetoboilbutbringittoacomfortabledrinkingtemperatureIfyouhaveahandblendersubstitutethisforawhiskeitherwayforafrothyheadagoodamountofwhiskingisneeded

Servesprinkledwiththeremainingfennelsugarandafewshardsofchocolate

IfyouhaveaccesstoanespressomachinecombinethegratedchocolatewiththegingersugarsaltfennelandjustenoughmilktomakeathickpastethenheatitusingthesteamwandWarm2mugsandpourthethickspicedchocolateintothemSteamtheremainingmilkwiththecreaminametaljugusingthesteamwandThetrickistointroduceenoughsteamnearthesurfaceofthemilktocreateawhirlpoolthisshouldgenerateverylittlenoiseKeepahandcuppedaroundthesteamingjugWhenitistoohottoholdcomfortablystopsteamingTapthejugontheworktopseveraltimestopopanysurfacebubblesandthenswirltominimiseanyseparationbetweenfoamandliquidPourthisglossymilkontothethickchocolateAfteralittlepracticeitisrelativelysimpletocreateafewpatternsThissteamingprocesswillcreatethemicro-foamneededtomakeasilkyhotchocolate

RecipeList

NettleSoupwithCaerphillyStGeorgersquosMushroomswithAsparagusRibwortPlantain

MushroomJellyandAppleJellySweet-cureMackerelwithMorelsSpeltSodaBreadand

HorseradishAsparaguswithToastedSesameandHollandaiseSauce

ClearHamHockBrothwithPoachedEggsCaerphillyandCiderWelshRabbit

SmokedChipotleChilliesSmokedRoeDeerLoinwithWildRocketClampedCarrots

HoneyedWalnutsandWoodSorrelCurdCheeseCucumberFlatBeanAniseedandSesame

CrabSaladwithNewPotatoesPickledCarrotandSmokedPaprikaMayonnaise

SpringRadisheswithAnchovyCregravemeFraicheTroutwithKelpandShiitakeMushroomStockRiceFlatBeans

andSeaKaleGoatMeatballsMashLovageButterandMustardGreens

OxTonguewithSwedeParsleyandCiderVinegarOxTonguewithCauliflowerGilliflowerandHazelnuts

SaltMarshLambwithTidalGreensSteamedRabbitPudding

PorkJuniperandBlackIPAPiePearlBarleywithOldDemdikeandStGeorgersquosMushroom

RhubarbandCustardChocolateandSaltCaramelBrownieswithCherryand

ElderflowerSauceElderflowersyrup

StrawberryandRoseLemonadePuddingwithSaffronandCiderBrandyCustard

TheEthicureanVermouthBotanicalsVermouth

RoseLemonadeTheEthicureanCocktail

Negroni

SPRINGINTHEWRINGTONValehasauniquefeelThereisasenseofimminentactivitythatmomentbeforesomebodytellsyousomethingtheyhavekeptsecretforalongtime

ColourcomesfirstandthedaffodilsarestilloutinlateMarchbetweentheoutsidewallandthelowerorchardthickyellowcarpetsintheshadowsoftheappletreesJackisoutstalkingroedeerwithAlanDownagoodfriendandexperiencedstalkerbeforethenewshootsandleavesprovidetoomuchcoverDuringspringmorningsbeforeserviceMatthewandIainrolldownthesleevesoftheirchefrsquoswhitesandpickyoungnettleshootswithglovedhandsCarriedupthroughthegardeninapplecratesthenettlesarecarefullycleanedandendupasabrightgreensoupLumpsofGorwyddCaerphillyarefloatedonthesurfacemeltingtoanirresistiblegelatinoustexture

KaleradishesandrainbowchardareallreadyWefrythekaleinahotpanwithplentyofcidervinegarandsaltMarkplantstheradishesasacompanionplantbetweentherowsofgarlicWeslicetheseredrootsintosaladsndashsomearefieryandneedacoolingsomethingtosubduetheirheatTherubychardrequireslittlecookingandissmotheredunderagenerousmeasureofhollandaiseasabreakfasttreat

AsspringcontinuesonitspaththebluebellsflowerreplacingtheyellowdaffodilsTheyareadeepvioletblueNotmanypeopleknowthattheVictorianswouldstiffentheircollarswithcrushedbluebells

NexttheblossomcomesasuresignofthenewseasoneachblossomapotentialfruitFirstuparetheplumsanddamsonsTheseguardthewestwallsprayedoutwardsontheircanedespaliersPearsandcherriesquicklyfollowwhileapplesareslowerblossominginAprilQuincecomesnextweareproudofoursingletreewhichprovidesuswithenoughfruitformembrilloallyearlongMedlarsarelastcream-colouredflowersthatwillbecomeuglyfruitbutwithexcellentflavourPaulacanbefoundwalkingbetweenthetreesforecastingourfuturecropandthebumblebeesareoutfor

betweenthetreesforecastingourfuturecropandthebumblebeesareoutfornectar

AprilcanmeanonlyonethingtheasparagusseasonWepatrolthebedsatBarleyWoodkeeneyeshuntingforthefirstelusivespearstopushuptheirtightcrisptipsThispreciouscropisdevouredwithpoachedeggsorstraightfromthepanwithplentyofbutter

StGeorgersquosDaymarksthetimetolookforStGeorgersquosmushroomsTheonlyforagedmushroomsafetobeeatenrawithasanaturalflavourcompanionintheformofribwortplantainThisseedheadfoundinourorchardisafirmfavouriteofoursandthetwotogethermakeawonderfulseasonaldelicacy

MayheraldstheyellowflowersofmeadowvetchlingandcreepingcinquefoilfavouritesofthegrizzledskipperbutterflyPrimrosesarealsofloweringintheshadeoftheBramleytrees

InJunetheherbgardenlooksbeautifulWepinchoutthenewgrowthtomakebotanicalteasforourhousevermouthMarkrsquosstrawberriesbegintocropandweuseupthelastjarofthepreviousseasonrsquosjaminourroselemonadesteamedpuddingThejampanissetfirmlybackonthestove

NettleSoupwithCaerphilly

Thissouprsquosstrikingemeraldcolour(nettleshaveoneofthehighestlevelsofchlorophyllinthevegetablekingdom)mightleadyoutothinkofitasalightstarterDonotbefooledItisanextremelywholesomesoupthatcouldhelpyourunamarathonRomansoldiersaresaidtohavebroughttheirownsupplyofnettlestoBritainasarichsourceofproteintofuellongmarchesinthecoldwetclimatePerhapsthatiswhythissoupissopopularwithstaffattherestaurantwhenonbusyspringdaysyouwillcatchusallsippingamugofittokeepusgoingTheCaerphillyaddsacreamytextureWefavourGorwyddCaerphilly

madebyourfriendstheTrethowanfamilyattheirfarmsituatedbetweenLampeterandAberystwythItisoneofourall-timefavouriteBritishcheesesandweconsideritsWelshrabbitcapabilitiestobeunrivalled(seehere)Oysterspairremarkablywellwithnettlesandwersquodrecommendserving

thissoupwithoystersdroppedintoitatthelastmomentThereisanionicqualitytothemboththatjustsingswhentheyareeatenincombinationAchunkofbreadwithapatofsaltedbutterisalsoanexcellentaddition

SERVES4

alittlevegetableoil500gonionsthinlysliced250gceleriaccutintosmallcubes250gcarrotscutintosmallcubes1litrefishstockorvegetablestock(seehere)100ndash120gnettletipsfreshlypicked(theymustbeveryyoung)200gCaerphillycheesepreferablyGorwyddcutintosmallcubesrapeseedoilfordrizzlingseasalt

PlacealargepanoveramediumheatAddathinfilmofvegetableoilfollowedbytheonionsceleriacandcarrotsCoverandsweatforabout5minutesuntilthevegetableshavestartedtosoftenbutarenotcolouredAddthestockbringtoasimmerandcookuntilthevegetablesaresoftTheyshouldbesoftenoughtoblitzeasilyanythingbeyondthathoweverandtheflavourwillbegintodull

flavourwillbegintodull

TransferthesouptoablenderinbatchesthatfillitnomorethanhalffullandblitzuntilsmoothaddingthenettleswiththefinalbatchPourthroughafinesieveintoacleanpanChecktheconsistencyofthesoupifyouwouldpreferalooserfinishstirinalittlemorestockSeasonwithseasalttotasteandreheatverygentlyifthenettlesareheatedfortoolongtheyturnaveryunappealingshadeofdarkgreenServeinlargebowlsgarnishedwiththecubesofCaerphillyandatinydrizzleofrapeseedoil

daggerThebasetothissoupiswhatisknownasamirepoixAmirepoixreferstoonionscelery(orinthiscaseceleriac)andcarrotsintheratioof211ItisaveryclassicstartingpointincookeryandresultsinanoveralltastethatisgreaterthanthatofitsworthyingredientsWeoftenusethisratioofvegetablesforstocksandbasesofsauces

MUSHROOMS

WhenweopenedtherestaurantwereliedonseveralprofessionalforagerstobringussteadysuppliesofmushroomsWecannotemphasiseenoughtheimportanceofusingexpertsinyourownlearningprocessIfyouareeverindoubtaboutthetypeofmushroomyouhavefounddonottakeachanceTheconsequencescanbefatalItisacommonmistaketoforgetoneofthefinestwild

mushroomsnativetoBritainndashStGeorgersquosmushroomTheyarefoundaround23AprilStGeorgersquosDayandareavailableuntilearlyJuneTheirdistinctivearomahasbeenaptlydescribedasthesmellofBritishfieldsThismakesperfectsenseastheyoftenforminaringcompletelyhiddenunderlonggrassIfyoufindtheirsmelloverwhelmingpleasedonrsquotgiveuponthemWeareconvincedthattheytastebestwheneatenrawsotrythesmalleronesfirstasthesmelldevelopswithageandyoumightfindthemlesspungentFailingthatifyoucookthemtheirscentisgreatlycamouflagedWehaveheardthatsomerestaurantsfeelnervousabouthavingthemonthemenuyetwithexpertidentificationtherereallyisnoreasontodepriveyourselfofsuchaninterestingdelicacyStGeorgersquosistheonlyforagedmushroomthatcanbeserved

rawandwewouldalwaysadviseyoutocookothervarietiesInitiallyrawStGeorgersquostasteoffreshcucumberbuttheflavourdevelopsintosomethingmoreakintomelontowardstheendWeservethemwithasparagusandribwortplantainanotherforagedplantthatiseasytofindasitgrowscommonlyonlawnsandgreenareasSadlyitisnowconsideredaweedbutpleasehelpusreintroduceittoBritishcookingItiseasytoidentifythebulbshaveelongatedkernel-liketipsandonceyouspotititisimpossibletomissItinitiallytastesslightlybitterbutthisdevelopsintoanuttywoodyflavourndashoftenlikenedtothatofcepmushroomsndashthattiesinperfectlywiththeearthywoodland

notesoftheStGeorgersquosFormoreofourthoughtsaboutmushroomsseehere

StGeorgersquosMushroomswithAsparagusRibwortPlantainMushroomJellyandAppleJelly

WeusedtoforageformushroomsasoftenaspossiblebeforemovingtotheWalledGardenAlwaysladenwithtoomanybooksonthesubjectwewouldsetoutwithourlurcherhopingtotrainhertofindsomedelicaciesOurlackofexperiencemusthaverubbedoffonherasshewasmoreinterestedinstickspineconesandsquirrelsGraduallywelearnedtoidentifychickenofthewoodsparasolsandbeefsteakfungusForagingbecameoneofourfavouriteautumnalactivitiesAtfirstwetravelledfurtherawaythanweneededinourquesttobecomeamateurmycologistsWithtimethoughwelearnedthevaluablelessonthatthebestingredientsareusuallytobefoundonyourdoorstep

SERVES4

abunchofasparagus20smallribwortplantainflowerheads1tspmintleavespreferablyspearmint12ndash16summerpurslaneleavesorothersaladleavesfineseasalt

FORTHEMUSHROOMJELLY

250gStGeorgersquosmushroomsapinchofsaltfrac12tspagaragarpowder

FORTHEAPPLEJELLY

250gapplejuicefrac12tspagaragarpowder

FirstmakethemushroomjellyRemovethestalksfromthemushroomsandsetthecapsasideCleanthestalksthoroughlyandthenchopfinelyPuttheminapancoverwith250gwaterandsimmerfor15minutesStrainthecookingliquorthroughafinesieveintoacleanpanpressingwiththebackofaspoontoextractitallDiscardthestalksMeasurethecookingliquorandaddadashmorewaterifnecessarytotakeitbackupto250gSeasonwith

addadashmorewaterifnecessarytotakeitbackupto250gSeasonwithsaltrememberingthatinthisinstancealittlegoesalongwayReturnthepantotheheatandstirintheagaragaruntildissolvedTheliquorneedstoboilbrieflytohydratetheagarandactivateitsgellingpropertiesPourintoasmallplasticboxWeuseonethatgivesafinaldepthofabout1cmsowecancutthejellyintocubesbutfeelfreetoexperimentLeavetocoolthenplaceinthefridgeuntilsetItwillkeepfor4days

FortheapplejellyheatthejuiceinapanstirintheagaragarandbringtotheboiluntildissolvedLeavetocoolandthensetinaplasticboxasdescribedabove

TrimtheasparagusbyfindingthenaturalpointwherethestalksnapsclosetothebaseandbreakingitoffHaveapanoffast-boilingsaltedwaterreadyandabowloficedwatertooCooktheasparagusintherapidlyboilingwaterforupto2minutesbutnomoreRemovethespearsandchillthemintheicedwatertheywillretaintheirbrightgreencolour

Finelyslicethereservedmushroomcapsandlaythemon4platesDustwithfineseasaltLaytheasparagusspearsontopofthemushroomsCutthejellyintosmallcubesandaddateaspoonofeachflavourtoeachplatealongwiththeribwortflowersmintleavesandpurslaneEncouragementforallamateurmycologists

Sweet-cureMackerelwithMorelsSpeltSodaBreadandHorseradish

ThecombinationofmackerelaniseedandhorseradishoffersawiderangeofflavoursThecurestopsthemackerelinitstrackspreservingafreshionicsnapshotoftheoceanHorseradishisafamiliarcompaniontomackerelsinceitswarmthisgoodwithoilyfishInterestinglyfishareattractedtothesmellofaniseedaswellastastingsuperbwithitMackerelareadelicatefishthatspoilquicklysochooseline-caughtones

andmakesuretheyareveryfreshThesmalloneswiththebrightesteyesarebestandareoftencheaperthanthelargerfishTheflavourofmorelmushroomsisextraordinaryndashreminiscentofthe

richnessofbeefThemushroomsreleasesporesthatarepickedupandcarriedbythewindSearchingformorelsisadeeplyengrossingtasksowatchoutforlowhangingbranchesasyouhuntWehavefoundthemunderashandsycamoretheyfavourdyinganddeadelmsTheyhavehollowfruitingbodiesandahoneycombstructureBewareoffalsemorelsknownasElfinSandalsThehorseradishsauceisausefulstandbythatcomesoutwheneverwe

haveleftoversirloinorbrisketItrsquosalsoverygoodoncoldlambsmokedfishandhamandexemplaryeatenwithSalt-bakedBabyBeets(seehere)andoxtongueDiguptherootofahealthyhorseradishwashawayresidualsoilandpeeltherootYouwilllikelybeleftwith50ndash100g(Ajarofgratedhorseradishisafinesubstitute)WhengratedhorseradishreleasesacompoundcalledsinigrinandenzymesitmeetsintheairimmediatelybreakthisdowntoformmustardoilThearomaisguaranteedtohaveyouinrabbinicallyintensetearsOursmallkitchenbecomesariotoffauxwailingandlaughterwheneverwepreparethisThetaskisnowseenasanaidtocamaraderieandteambuilding

SERVES44mackerelfilletspinbonesremoved10gdriedmorelmushrooms(orceps)400mlcidervinegar1tablespoonaniseed300gcastersugar

300gcastersugarfineseasalt

FORTHESPELTSODABREAD

200gbrownspeltflour200gwhitespeltflour50gfineoatmeal(oruseporridgeoatsthathavebeenblendeduntilfine)1tspbicarbonateofsoda1tspsalt1tbsphoney375mlbuttermilk(ifunavailablemix25mlwhitevinegarwith350mlmilkandleavetorestfor5minutes)

25gbuttermelted

FORTHEHORSERADISHSAUCE

1horseradishrootfinelygrated2tbspcidervinegar4tbspcregravemefraicirccheorsouredcream1teaspoonchoppedchives1teaspoonchiveflowersseasalt

Laythemackerelfilletsflesh-sidedownonabedoffineseasaltandchillfor2hourstocurethenrinseThisgivesafirmer-fleshedresult

Rehydratethemushroomsbysteepingtheminnear-boilingwaterwithasplashofthevinegarfor10minutesStrainreservingtheliquorandthencheckeachoneisfreeofsoilandsandTheliquorthatremainswillbedelicatelysmokyandtrulyflavoursome

WarmtheaniseedthroughinadrypanuntilitspitsandcracksthencarefullypourthemushroomliquorintothepanleavinganyresidueofsoilorsandbehindItwillboiluprapidlyasithitsthehotpansotakecareatthispointTheevaporationwillintensifytheflavourofthemushroomstockAddthevinegarandheatthroughthenaddthesugarandstiruntildissolvedAddthemorelmushroomsandremovefromtheheatAllowthismixturetocoolthenpouritoverthefishfilletsPlaceinthefridgeforatleast2hours

coolthenpouritoverthefishfilletsPlaceinthefridgeforatleast2hoursandupto6hoursThesimple-to-makespeltsodabreadcanfillthisgapquitecomfortably

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6MixallthedryingredientsforthebreadtogetherinalargebowlthenmakeawellinthecentreAddthehoneybuttermilkandmeltedbuttertothewellandmixwithawoodenspoonuntilwellcombinedPutthedoughintoa900gloaftin(ora23cmspringformcaketin)linedwithbakingparchmentandplaceintheovenBakefor15minutesthenreducetheoventemperatureto160degCGasMark3andbakefor30minuteslongerTurntheloafoutontoateatowelandtapthebaseitshouldsoundhollowIfnecessaryreturntotheovenforafewminuteslongerCooltheloafonawirerackcoveringitwithateatowelifyoupreferasoftcrust

CombinethegratedhorseradishvinegarandapinchofseasaltStrainthroughasievediscardingtheliquidthencombinewiththecregravemefraicirccheorsouredcreamSeasontotastewithsaltandtopwiththechivesandthepurple-huedchiveflowersThesweetaniseandmorelmackerelcannowbeliftedfromitssouseandservedwithchunksofbutteredsodabreadandtheirresistiblehorseradish

AsparaguswithToastedSesameandHollandaiseSauce

InaquietcornerbeyondthegardenwallsshelteredononesidebyasetofimposingcobnuttreesandguardedontheotherbydenseVictorianbayhedgesyouwillfindoneofourfavouriteingredientsgrowingsilentlyinitssandybedFormostoftheyeartheasparagusbedslookdesolateandgreylikeminiaturedunesinsomeforeignlandTheirdrabappearancemeansthattheyareoftenoverlookedbyvisitorstotheWalledGardenHowevertheyareregularlydisturbedbysquirrelstryingtoburythecobnutstheyhavelaboriouslycollectedfromtheneighbouringtreesWhentheasparagusspearsbegintogrowandweseetheirshyheadsstartingtopokeoutitisanintenselysatisfyingfeelingThenewsthattheasparagusisreadyforpickingtravelsfastwhichisprobablywhyitisinvariablytheitemwerunoutoffirstonthemenuNothingreallypreparesyouforthetasteofasparagusfreshlypickedfromthegarden

pickedfromthegardenUnfortunatelytheoriginalasparagusbedsattheWalledGardendidnot

survivethehardyearswhenthegardenwasallowedtofallintodeepdisrepairReplicasoftheoriginalswerebuiltin1999ThebedsareunusualbecausetheyareraisedndashafeaturethathelpsstoptherootsdrowninginsoddenclaysoilThevarietyisunknownbutwedoknowthattheywereplantedwiththeemphasisonflavourratherthansizeMatthewisconvincedthatasithasanunusualpurpletingetothetipandwhitebaseitmustbeFormbyasparagusfromFormbyinMerseysideWethinkhejustmissesthenorthwestalittlebuttheydobothlovesandysoilsoperhapsheisontosomethingTobeabletocutfreshasparagusfromthecornerofthegardeneverymorningandshareitwithourcustomersisoneofthethingsthatmakesusfeelveryluckytobealiveWechoosetoscattertoastedsesameseedsoverthisdishastheyaddasoftnuttycrunchtoadelicateingredientPeopleareoftenputoffbytheseemingcomplexityofhollandaisesauce

butthemethodoverleafoffersaneasywaytoachieveaconsistentresulteverytimeWeflavouritwithvintagecidervinegarinsteadofthemoretraditionallemonjuiceandfinditaddsanewdepthandaslightlyoakytasteWealsousesaltedbutterratherthanunsaltedOurfavouriteisMarylandwhichisproducedinSheptonMalletrelativelyclosetousandisquitesaltywithroughlytwopercentsaltWefindthatthesaltinessofthebutterbalancestheinherentacidityofthevinegarAlternativelyyoucoulduseanunsaltedbutterandseasontotastewithfineseasalt

SERVES4

2tbspsesameseeds4sprigsoftarragon20asparagusspearstrimmed

FORTHEHOLLANDAISESAUCE

3eggyolks1tbspvintagecidervinegarsuchasOstlerrsquos125gchilledsaltedorunsaltedbuttercutinto1cmcubesseasalt

Firstmakethehollandaisesaucefillasaucepantwo-thirdsfullwithwaterandbringtoarapidboilPuttheeggyolksandvinegarinaheatproofbowlandwhiskforabout1minuteuntilpaleandfluffyTakethepanofboiling

andwhiskforabout1minuteuntilpaleandfluffyTakethepanofboilingwaterofftheheatandsetthebowloveritensuringthebaseofthebowlisnottouchingthewaterQuicklyaddallthebuttertothebowlandwhisksteadilywithaballoonwhiskuntiltheheatfromthewatermeltsthebutterandcookstheeggsAfterafewminutesofconstantgentlewhiskingthehollandaisewillthickenWhenitistheconsistencyofathincustardtakethebowloffthepanandcontinuewhiskinguntiltheconsistencychangestothatofanimmaculatevelvetycustard

ToastthesesameseedsinafryingpanoveralowheatuntiltheyarelightgoldenbrownOncetheybeginbrowningtheycanburnveryeasilysokeepyoureyeonthemandstirregularlyforanevencolourRemovefromthepanandleavetocool

PlacethetarragoninapanlargeenoughtofitasteamerbasketontopAdd7ndash8cmofboilingwaterplaceonamediumheatandputthesteamerbasketonitWhenthewaterissimmeringaddtheasparagustothebasketcoverandsteamfor3ndash4minutesuntilthespearsaretenderbutretainabitofbite

Toserveplacethespearson4servingplatespouroverthehollandaiseandgarnishwiththetoastedsesamePoachedeggs(seehere)wouldmakeaworthyadditiontothisdelightfulstarter

ClearHamHockBrothwithPoachedEggs

ThisbrothisamarvellouslynourishingclearandbalancedliquidToachievesuchclarityweneedtoactlikewaterfollowingthepathofleastresistanceexercisingpatiencewegetwhereweneedandtherewardistwofoldwithstockasclearaswaterfromababblingmountainbrookandasdeepasPoseidonrsquosrealminflavourWhenthepoachedeggyolkisbrokenthedishchangesbeforeyoureyesandanewdepthofrichnessbecomesobvioustothetongueThebrothmustbemadewellinadvanceasithastobefrozensoonafter

its5hoursinthepanandthendefrostedovernightinthefridgeThismayseemalongprocessbutonceyoursquoveexperiencedtherewardsandknowwhatrsquosinstorethenexttimewillbeabreezeYouwillendupwithmorestockherethanyouneedforthisdishbutitkeepswellinthefreezerWecookharicotbeansinitanduseittorehydratedriedmorels(seehere)amongstotherthingsTheonlywaytogetperfectpoachedeggsistouseeggsasnewlylaidas

possibleWithinoneortwodaysisbestsobefriendsomeonewiththeirownpeepofchickensorconsideraidingthecommendableworkofTheBritishHenWelfareTrustbyrehomingsomebatterychickensyourselfandhavingaccesstotrulyfresheggseveryday

SERVES44veryfreshorganiceggscidervinegar150grainbowchardcuthorizontallyinto25cmstrips1lovageleaffinelyslicedseasaltandblackpepper4wildvetchtipsorpeashootstogarnish

FORTHEHAMHOCKBROTH

1hamhock1bayleaf1clove1staranise2peppercorns

2peppercorns2corianderseeds4lovageseeds(orfennelseeds)2parsleystalks100gonionsdiced50gcarrotdiced50gceleriacdiced

FirstmakethebrothWashthehamhockwellundercoldrunningwaterandplaceitinalargepanCoverwithcoldwaterbringtotheboilthenimmediatelydiscardthewaterandrinsethehockoncemoreThiswillremoveimpuritiesthatmightcloudthestocklateronPutthehockbackinthepanfillwithplentyofwatercoveringthehockcompletelyandbringbacktoagoodrollingsimmerAddthebayleafandspicesandsimmerfor2frac12hoursregularlyskimmingoffanyimpuritiesthatrisetothesurfaceTopupwithmorewaterifnecessarytokeepthehockcoveredMakessurethestockissimmeringwellsothetemperatureishighenoughtoextractthegelatinefromthemeat

After2frac12hoursaddthevegetablesandcookforanother2hoursmaintainingahealthyrollingsimmerandtoppinguptheliquidlevelasnecessaryRewardyourpatiencewithalittlesnippetofthemeltinglysofthockonceitisremovedfromitscookingliquorWorththewaitSetthehockasidetocoolalittleandstrainthestockthroughafinesieveintoalargebakingtinndashthewidesurfaceareawillallowittocoolrapidlyWhenthehockiscoolenoughtohandleprisethemeatawayfromthebonesandbreakitintomanageablepiecesLaythesepiecesoutonasimilarshallowtraytocoolquicklythencoverandrefrigerate

Youshouldhaveabout2litresofstockFreezeitin4tubsthenadayortwobeforeyouplantomakethesoupturnout2ofthefrozenblocksandwrapthemin2layersofmuslinPlacetheminasievesetoverabowllargeenoughtoholdthethawedstockthenputtheminthefridgeThegelatineimpuritiesandfatwillstaysolidinthemuslinatfridgetemperaturewhilethestockwillrunclearbelowResisttheurgetosqueezethemuslinitwilldraindryeventuallyThistechniqueyieldsabouthalftheinitialfrozen

weightofstockinfinishedclarifiedstockInourexperiencethisisalittletooconcentratedandwilltakeaboutathirdextrawater

TheeggscanbepoachedinadvanceofservingBringapanofwatertoalightsimmerthenturnofftheheatandleavefor2ndash3minutesThewatercandropaslowas80degCandstillcooktheeggCrackaneggontoalargeslottedspoonandshakeitgentlysothewateryalbumendrainsoffandthetightlyboundalbumenremainsonthespoonGentlydroptheeggintoaramekinandrepeatwiththeremainingeggsputtingeachoneinaseparateramekinSubmergethebaseofeachramekininthehotwaterthenturntheramekinoverandtipouttheeggLettheeggssitundisturbedfor3frac12ndash5minutesdependingonsizeTheaimistocookthewhitewhilekeepingtheyolkrunnyRemovetheeggsusingaslottedspooninthesameordertheywentinandlowerthemintoabowloficedwaterThiswillstopthecookingTheeggscanbepoachedinadvanceandkeptinthefridgefor2days

CommendyourselfasthebuildingofthedishbeginsHeatthebroththroughdilutingittotastewithaboutathirdofitsvolumeinwaterifnecessaryandseasoningwithasplashofcidervinegarandsomesaltTokeepthebrothclearwerecommendreheatingthehockandcookingthechardseparatelyinsimmeringwaterAddthehamtoapanofsaltedwaterandcookatagentlesimmerforaboutaminutethendrainBlanchthechardinthewaterforabout30secondsthendrainwellIfyouhavepoachedtheeggsinadvancereheatthembybringingapanofwatertoasimmerremovingitfromtheheatthendroppingtheeggsinandleavingfor1minuteArrangethehamchardandeggsin4bowlsandgarnishwiththelovageleafandapinchofsaltoneacheggGentlypourthehockbrothoverthemcracksomeblackpepperoverthedishanddresswiththevetchtipsorpeashoots

CaerphillyandCiderWelshRabbit

ThisisastapleatTheEthicureanandthesmellinthemorningastherabbitismadeisintoxicatingServedalongsideapileofMarkrsquossaladleavestheflavoursareacidicsweetsaltyrichandforemostsavouryManyrecipescallfortheinclusionofstoutorporter-stylebeersOursisverymuchaWestCountryaffairandwechoosePerryrsquosMorganSweetcideronaccountofitssweetacidicfruitinessbutanygoodmedium-sweetciderwillsufficeCiderpairsverywellwithCaerphillyWhilebeerwoulddominatethischeesersquoscitrusyandmushroomyearthinessthecidersingsinchorusThesciencebehindusingCaerphillyoramatureCheddarisvery

straightforwardwedonrsquotwantastringyWelshrabbitCheesessuchasEmmentalcontaincaseinmoleculesthatarelinkedbycalciumforminglongfibresndashessentiallythestringinstringycheeseGorwyddrsquoscitrusflavourindicatesahighlevelofaciditywhichremovessomeofthecalciumItsunctuoustexturemeansahighermoisturecontentthatwillseparatecaseinmoleculesAllinallitrsquostheperfectcheeseforrarebitMatureCheddarisagoodalternativeTheripeningenzymesareratherpartialtocaseinandtheydevouritpreventinganylongstring-likefibresforming

SERVES6alargeunslicedwhitetinloaf100gverysoftsaltedbutter(or100gbeefdrippingmelted)150mlmedium-sweetcider100mlsinglecream2tbspvintagecidervinegarsuchasOstlerrsquos2tbspWorcestershiresauce2pinchesofsmokedpaprika250gGorwyddCaerphilly(ifyoucanrsquotgetGorwyddanagedCheddarmakesthebestsubstitute)coarselygrated

2eggyolks(omitifusingCheddar)

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6Cuttheendsoffthewhiteloafandthendividetheloafinto6slicesThethicknessoftheslicesisoneofthefactorsthatmakesthisrabbitsoperfectwithacrunchyexteriorthatgiveswaytoabrilliantlysoftwhiteinteriorUsingapastrybrushlightlybrush

waytoabrilliantlysoftwhiteinteriorUsingapastrybrushlightlybrushtheverysoftbutter(orthemelteddripping)onbothsidesofthebreadPuttheslicesonabakingsheetandbakefor8minutesturningthemoverhalfwaythroughBothsidesshouldbeverylightlygoldenLeaveonawireracktocool

PutthecidercreamvinegarWorcestershiresauceandpaprikainanon-sticksaucepanplaceoveramediumheatandcookstirringregularlyuntilthemixturehasreducedtotheconsistencyofdoublecreamItshouldbeadeepshadeofbrownLowertheheatandaddthecheeseandtheeggyolksifusingStiruntilthecheesehasmeltedthenwhiskthesauceuntilverysmoothandglossyLeavetocoolandthickentoapasteconsistency

SpreadthemixtureedgetoedgeonthetoastedbreadReturnthemtotheovenfor4minutesthenplaceunderahotgrilluntilevenlybrownedEnjoywithageneroushelpingofdressedsaladleavesAsthelocalBristolianswouldsaylsquoGertlushrsquo

daggerRestingbetweenLampeterandAberystwythontheCeredigioncoastlineisGorwyddfarmtheplacewhereone-timearchaeologistToddTrethowandevelopedhisrecipeHebeganhischeesecareerafterlearningfromthegreatWestCountrycheesemakerChrisDuckettFinallyhemovedhiscampervanhomeduringhislsquocheeseapprenticeshiprsquoandreturnedtothefamilyfarmtomakeGorwyddCaerphillyTherearetwodistincttypesofCaerphillythefirstandoldestwasthecheesemadebyhandusingexcessmilkthatwouldhaveotherwiseturnedbadItwasafarmhousecheesetobeeatenafteradayinthefieldsThesecondbringsusbacktoSomersetandtotheCheddarmakerswhodesiredaquick-maturingcheesethatwouldenablehealthycash-flowduringthelongmaturationperiodsoftheirCheddar

SMOKING

HumanshavealwaysbeendrawntothehypnoticandtranquilqualitiesoffireTherearefewthingsthatwelovemorethansittingaroundafirewiththeclosestoffriendsandfamilyputtingtheworldtorightsoverabottleofwineFiresmeansmokeandsmokedfoodwasperhapsaby-product

ofdrying(seealsocuringhere)whenfoodwashungoverfiresandallowedslowlytodrythuspreservingthemeatfromrottingNowadaysfoodsthataretobesmokedundergoapreliminarystepofcuringbeforebeingsmokedSmokingisusedasanadditionalformofpreservationbutnotanessentialoneThesedayssmokingisusedforitsapplicationofflavourTherearetwomethodshotsmokingandcoldsmokingWith

theformerhotsmokefromafireiseitherdirectedintoasealedchamberthathousesfoodorachambercanbedirectlyplacedoversmokinglogsThemaingoalofhotsmokingistocookandpasteurisethemeatTemperaturesinsidethechambersusedtohousethefoodcommonlyreach80ndash110degCColdsmokingasthenamesuggestsusescoldsmoketo

flavourthefoodTraditionalmethodsuseasealedcontainerwithhooksfromwhichtohangfoodhowevertheheatsourceisseparateUsuallythefireishousedinaseparatechamberjoinedtothefoodchamberviasomepipingSmokeescapesfromthefireboxintothepipeandtravelsintothefoodchamberThefurtherthesmoketravelsthemoreitcoolsonitsjourneyThegoalofcoldsmokingwasoriginallytodryfoodGiving

microbeslesswaterinhibitstheirgrowthFoodsusedtobecoldsmokedforlongperiodsoftimeattemperaturessomewherearound20ndash30degChoweverthisposedalargeriskforthesafetyoffoodastheseareperfectconditionsformicrobialactivityCuringsaltswereoftenusedtopreventthisfromhappeningThankstotheinventionofthetrustyfridgetheprimaryreasonforcoldsmoking(preservation)islessimportantandwecannowutiliseitpurelyfortheflavouritadds

utiliseitpurelyfortheflavouritaddsThepointjustbeforewoodignitesistheperfectpointfor

smokingfoodasthisiswhenthetemperatureishighenoughtoremovethemoreunpleasantelementsthatcanbeinthesmokeWoodsmokingatcoolertemperaturescanoftentarnishfoodswithanacridlessfavourableflavourAnyhigherthanthisandthewoodwilligniteSmokingisadelicatebalancingactandtakesskilland

experienceIfyouhaveneverexperimentedwithsmokingbeforethenwerecommendtryingafewofthetechniqueslistedhereBewarnedthatitisanincrediblyaddictivehobbyandonceyoubegintorealisethevariablesanddifferentmethodsitcanbecomeanall-consumingobsessionndashsomethingthatMatthewandIainknowonlytoowellSincetheystartedsmokingwhatevertheycouldlaytheirhandsonthereisoftensomethingsmoulderingawayinthekitchenunderclosescrutinyIaincanoftenbeseenwieldingalargeblowtorchwithaslightlyexhaustedmaniclookinhiseyewhileMatthewtakesafewstepsbackcoveringuphischesthairfromthenakedflameWewillintroduceyoutoafewbasicsmokingmethodsthat

aregreatforthehomesmokerandwewillhighlighttheprosandconsforeachThereareentirebooksdevotedtothisvastandfascinatingsubjectandifthesemethodspiqueyourinterestwecanstronglyrecommendpurchasingone

TincanandsolderingironapproachJackhasexperimentedalotwiththismethodItisoneoftheeasiestandmostaccessibletothehomeuserhoweveritdoeshaveitsdrawbacksFirstthishastobedoneoutsideYouneedatincanthatisnotlacqueredontheinsideoldcondensedmilktinsareperfectPackdrywoodchipsintothecanandatthebaseofthecanonthesidemakeasmallincisionwithascrewdriverndashitshouldbelargeenoughforthetipofasolderingironPlacethetipofthesolderingironintheholeandturnonThenputboththecanandtheironinthebaseofasmallWeber-stylebarbecuewiththebarbecueshelfplacedoverthecanPointthecansothattheopeningisclosetothewallofthebarbecueandawayfromthemeatPlacethefoodyouwanttosmokeonthewireshelfon

themeatPlacethefoodyouwanttosmokeonthewireshelfontheoppositesidetothecanandpoponthelidClosealloftheventsonthebarbecueIfyouaresmokingmeatorfishwerecommenddoingitinhalf-hourincrementsYoucancheckontheinternaltemperatureofthebarbecuewithathermometerTakethemeatouttryalittleandseewhatyouthinkIfyouwantmoresmokethenplacebackinforanother30minutesFoodsthatneedtobecookedbeforetheycanbeeaten(raw

meatfishetc)shouldneverbesmokedformorethanfourhoursbutthenitisveryunlikelythatsmallcutsofmeatorfishwillrequirethislengthofsmokinginanycaseIfsmokingthesetypesoffoodsplacealargebowloficeunderthewirerackontheoppositesidetothecandirectlyunderthefoodstuffThiswillcoolthesmokedownsomemoreIfsmokingforlongperiodsoftimethechipsinthetincanwillneedreplacingevery6ndash8hourstoensureyougetthebestfromthistechniqueSomepeopleadvocatetheuseofacombinationofdampand

drywoodchipsbutwewouldstronglyrecommendifusingthismethodthatyouuseonlydrychipsEventhismethoddoesnotachievehighenoughtemperaturestoburnthemaincarcinogeniccomponentsofsmokeandcombiningdampwoodlowersthepyrolysistemperature(thetemperatureatwhichmoleculesinthewoodarebrokendown)andresultsinevenmoreacridandacidiccomponentsflavouringthefoodIfyouareattemptingthismethodsetupthebarbecuecloseto

adoorwayoronapatioTheoptimumtimeforsmokinglikethisisduringwinterasthecoolertemperaturesmeansaferconditionsIfsmokingonasunnydaythenkeepwellshadedThisisafairlyexperimentalapproachandonethatnottoomanypeopleknowaboutConsideringhoweasyitiswersquodliketogetpeoplehookedonsmokingthroughthesebasictechniquesbeforeencouragingfurtherexperimentationwithsomeofthetechniquesoverleaf

BlowtorchandicemethodAgainthisispracticalforthehomesmokerandallowsplentyofscopeforexperimentationInasmall-to-medium-sizedliddedroastingtrayplacewoodchipsorsawdustononesideofthebaseOntheoppositesideofthetrayplaceabowloficeIgnitethechipsordustthoroughlyusingablowtorchCulinaryblowtorcheswillnotcutthemustardonthisoneastheydonotgiveoffenoughheatyouwillneedaplumberrsquosone(askforacopperbrazingtorchatyourlocalplumbingsupplier)BesurenottobuyatorchthatrunsoffMAPPGasthesecontainadangeroustypeoffuelthatisnotsuitedforculinaryuseStartthewoodsmoulderingbeforeplacingawirerackontop

withthefoodonthencoveringwiththelidWeighdownthelidifitdoesnotformatightsealandleavefor30minutesRemovefromthesmokerandtestthefoodtoseeifitissmokyenoughforyourtasteYoucanalsousedifferenttypesofwoodforthismethodThe

boysinthekitchenhaveexperimentedwithsmokingbutterwithfreshbayleavesNotallofourexperimentshavebeensuccessfulndashinfactsomehavebeenappallingbutyouneverknowuntilyoutryWhilethismethoddoesachieveahottertemperaturethanthetincanitisstillnotaseffectiveatburningcarcinogensandacridcomponentsofsmokeassomeotherslightlymorecomplextechniques

HotpanmethodAlthoughthisessentiallyhotsmokesyourfoodyoucouldtrycombiningitwiththeprevioustechniquendashitsavesbuyinga

combiningitwiththeprevioustechniquendashitsavesbuyingablowtorchHeatupalargepanuntilsmokinghotAddathinlayerofwoodchipsandgetthemsmokingtooDecantthechipsintooneendofaliddedroastingtraywithabowloficeattheotherendFollowingtheremainingstepsforthepreviousmethod

SmokegunmethodAsmokegunisahand-helddevicethathousesasmallchambersimilartothatofasmokingpipeandcontainsafanYouloadthechamberwithsawdustorwoodchipslightthemandthenturnthefanonThefanpullsairthroughthechamberandfeedsoxygentothefireComingoutofthesmokegunisarubbertubethatallowsyoutodirectwhereyouwantthesmoketogoThismethodforthehomeuserisincrediblyeffectivePackthebaseofthechamberwithsawdustandlightuntilsmoulderingWhensmoulderingtopwithwoodchipsofyourchoiceandlightthewoodchipsWhileyoudothisturnthefanonThesmokefromthewoodpassesthroughahotbaselayerofsawdustthatburnsanyacridcomponentsofthesmokeWhatyouareleftwithisessentiallylsquogoodsmokersquothatwillflavouryourfoodinapositivewayTheonlycompanyweknowofthatmanufacturesasmokegunisPolyScienceSmokegunsretailaroundthepound50markandareavailableonlineUltimatelyexperimentingwithfoodandtechniquesshouldbe

funThecarcinogenicnatureofsmokehoweveritcomesisnothealthytohumanbeingssoweadvisetakingcareandlimitingtheamountsofsmokedfoodsyoueatThatsaidsometrulyspectacularflavourscanbeachievedandasalwaysweurgeyoutogetcreativelearnthebasicsandthenplayYoumayjuststumbleacrossacombinationortechniquethatshapesthefutureofcooking

SmokedChipotleChillies

ThechipotlechilliisajalapentildeothathasbeenlefttoripenontheplantitisthensmokedanddriedWealldevelopedaloveforthischillithroughPaucirclawhoregularlyreceivesdriedpackagesofthemfromMexicoHergrandmotherrsquoschipotlepickleisabsolutelyincredibleWesmokethewholechillieswiththeseedsinbutyoucantakethemoutifyoupreferamildersauce

20jalapentildeochillies(oranytypeofripechilli)

Werecommendusingabout15kgoffinewoodchipsndashoakorapplearegoodbutavoidresinouswoodsastheywilltainttheflavour

WhenyouarereadytosmokebeginbywashingthejalapentildeosFollowtheinstructionsforthetincanandsolderingironsmokingmethodonhereArrangethejalapentildeosontheoppositesidetothesmokingcanandthenclosethebarbecuelidIdeallyyouwanttosmokethejalapentildeosfor16hoursuntildarkandcrispEveryfewhourscheckthelevelofwoodinthecanandtopupasappropriateYoucanalsofinishdryingthechilliesinafanovenonabout50degCwiththedoorslightlyajarfan-assistedovensareperfectforthistask(Pleaseconsultoperatinginstructionsndashdisclaimer)StorethecooledsmokedchilliesinanairtightcontainerinacooldryplaceThechilliescanberehydratedinhotwatertheflavourisverystrongsolittleisneeded

SmokedRoeDeerLoinwithWildRocketClampedCarrotsHoneyedWalnutsandWoodSorrel

CuringtheloinmakesthemostofthispreciouscutWealsocoldsmokeitaddingextracomplexitytotheendresultThisstagecanbeleftoutifyoupreferEitherwayyouneedtopreparetheloinwellinadvanceasithastositinthecureforfivedaysTheoakchipsimpartaflavourthatcomplementstheblackcardamoma

spicethattastessmokedbecausethepodsaredriedoveropenflamesThesweetwalnutsbalancethesavourymeatWoodsorrelgrowsincarpetsonthewoodlandfloorandhasacitrustangthataddsacidityItalsogrowsinthedeerrsquoshabitatmakingitaveryfittingadditionindeed

SERVES4WITHPLENTYOFSPARELOINFORTHELARDER

1roedeerloinweighing1kgsilvermembraneremoved(askyourbutchertodothisforyou)

2handfulsofoakchipsforsmoking(orusethesmokegunmethodonhere)200gwildrocketalittlecidervinegar50gHoneyedWalnuts(seehere)2tablespoonswoodsorrel(orcultivatedsorrel)frac12tspfinelychoppedcrushedjuniperberries

FORTHECURE

6staranise6blackcardamompods2tbspjuniperberries1tbspblackpeppercorns35gfineseasalt15gdarkmuscovadosugar

FORTHECARROTANDBLACKCARDAMOMPUREacuteE

4blackcardamompods(seektheseoutinAsiansupermarketsasthesmokinessisveryvaluabletothechef)

200gcarrots(forclampedcarrotsseeopposite)sliced1ndash2tbsphoneyseasalt

Blitzalltheingredientsforthecuretogetherinafoodprocessororspice

BlitzalltheingredientsforthecuretogetherinafoodprocessororspicegrinderLaytheroeloinonalargepieceofclingfilmcoverwiththecuremixtureandrubitinthoroughlyleavingitinanevencoatingTightlywraptheloinintheclingfilmandplaceinthefridgefor5daysturningiteverydayorso

RemovetheloinfromthecuremixandrinseunderacoldtapmakingsureyouwashoffallthespicesHangthemeatinawarmwell-ventilatedarea(awarmpartofthekitchenorintheairingcupboardwilldo)for12hoursoruntilitiscompletelydrytothetouchndashatemperatureof25degCisidealsoadjustthetimeyouhangthemeataccordingly

InthemeantimeprepareyoursmokingboxfollowingtheBlowtorchandIcemethodonhere

PlacetheoakchipstoonesideofthebakingtrayOntheoppositesideplaceabowloficewithawirerackstooddirectlyaboveitPlacetheloinontherackUsingablowtorchheatthechipsstirringwithametalspoontoheatthemevenlyWhenthechipsareproperlyonfirecoverwiththefoilandweightdowntopreventsmokeescapingLeavefor30minutesThetimethattheloinsitsinsmokeisavariablethatcanbeplayedwithIfyoupreferasmokierflavourthenrepeattheprocesswithfreshwoodchipsOnceyouhavesmokedthemeattoyoursatisfactionremovefromthesmokerandchilluntilneeded

ForthecarrotandblackcardamompureacuteehalffillapanwithwateraddthecardamompodsandbringtoasimmerPutthecarrotsinasteamerbasketplaceontopofthepanthencoverandsteamfor35minutesuntilthecarrotsareverytenderindeedPureacuteeinablenderorfoodprocessorMixinthehoneyandsalttotasterememberingthatthisisthesweetcomponentofthisdishThinthepureacuteewithalittleofthesteamingliquorandblendagaintogiveavelvetytextureLeavetocoolthenchilluntilrequired

SlicetheroeloinfinelyatanangletomaximisethelengthofsliceDresstherocketincidervinegaralonethecarrotpureacuteewillprovideamplemoistureandsweetnesssonooilisrequiredPlacetherocketon4servingplatesandarrangetheroeloinwalnutsandsorrelontopthendotteaspoonsofthesmokedandhoneyedcarrotpureacuteethroughoutSprinklethejuniperberriesontoptofinishthissaporificdish

ontoptofinishthissaporificdish

WOODSORREL

OxalisAcetosellaOldEnglishAlleluiaThisdelicate-lookingplanthasaheart-shapedleafwithafolddownthecentrethesecordateleavesoccuringroupsofthreeFlowersappeararoundApriltoMaytheyarelilaccolouredwithdarkerveinsofthesamecolourAsthesundisappearswoodsorrelrsquosamorousleavesfoldtogethertomakeasmalltentshapeAtfirstlighttheyopenonceagainWeareluckytohaveseveralgoodspotsintheWestCountrywherewoodsorrelcanbefoundmoistandshadyplacesintypicallydeciduouswoodsWoodsorrellikestoshelterundermossandbrackenortheoddfallenlogItisalmostlemoninflavourandtheoxalicaciditcontainshastheeffectofstimulatingthesalivatoryglandsDonotpicktherootbutmakesureyoueatthewholestalkaswebelieveittobebettertastingthantheleafitself

CLAMPEDVEGETABLES

Clampingisanage-oldmethodofpreservationItsavestheautumncropofrootvegetablesandhasthebenefitofincreasingflavourandnutrientcontentAsanexamplecarrotswillincreasetheirvitaminAduringsixmonthsofstoringawayfromheatand

lightChefsareeversofondoftheseclampedrootsfortworeasonsTheincreaseinflavourandsweetnessisobviousbutmostimportantlytheyhavevegetablestomakevaluablestocks

throughthemonthsofFebruarytoMay

ToclampcarrotsbeetrootsparsnipsturnipsswedeceleriackohlrabiorpotatoesafewimportantstepsneedbefollowedYou

willneedafrost-freeshedorconcreteflooredgaragesomewoodentraysandagoodquantityofdampsandHarvestby

carefullyforkinguptherootsonadrydayinOctoberPickoutthelargerthick-coredandunblemishedrootsandtrimbackonlytheleavesInthecaseofbeetroottwisttheleavesratherthancuttopreventlsquobleedingrsquoanddonrsquotcutbackanygreencarrottopsastheyneedtoremainwholeRemoveanysoil(rubbingwithsandiseffective)andsendanydamagedorbrokenspecimenstothekitchenpost-hasteLaysandintothewoodentrayandplacetherootsinlayerstessellatingbutnottouchingCoverwithsandandrepeatuntilallarestoredUncovertherootsasneeded

takingcaretocoveranyremainingonesagainAcertainamountofcarrotscanbeleftinthegrounduntilspringpromptstheirgrowthagainbutthereisoftentherisktheymayturnwoodyandcrackIfyourcropwarrantsleavinginthegroundthen

coverwellwithstrawtoeasetheirliftingduringfrostsGiventhebenefitsforflavourandmineralcontentclampingisthebetter

option

HUNTINGDEERWITHALAN

WeregularlystalkwithourfriendAlanHeisahorticulturistacountrymanhereadsthelandscapeandwhispersthenamesofthethingsthatgrowcrawlrunandsingHehasawonderfullyclippedaccentlsquoJackrsquohewillsaylsquoLetrsquosconcentrateonthefirstcourseshallwersquoasthesightofStGeorgersquosmushroomsoftencausesdistractionsonaspringstalkDeeraremostactiveduringdawnandduskmeaningearly

startsandlatefinishesforthestalkerMorningsprovideacrystallinebeautyaswewalkthroughthelastfewfrostsoftheyearEveningsgiveusetherealsunsetsandthechancetowatchthelandsettledownforthenightAllthedeerinourareaareroeTheyareanativeBritishspecies(OldEnglishRaha)andare

spreadwidelyacrossBritainParticularlyinthesouthofEnglandthesedeerwerethoughttohavebeenallbutwipedoutduringtheMiddleAgesTheyarefoundpredominantlyinsmallgroupsoralonealthoughlargergroupswillfeedtogetherduringthewintermonthsRoewillfeedonberriesleavesgrassandyoungshootsTheyparticularlylikeyoungbrambleshootsandnewlycoppicedwoodlandEveninthefailinglightAlanrsquosgrinisperceptibleHenodsto

thesilhouetteofaroebuckasittracestheskylinewithitspin-likelegsitsearsflickingindependentlyWemustwaitforittodisappearoverthebrowofthehillhopingthatitwillprovideaclearshotwithasafebackstopontheothersideAtthistimeroedeerlookprettyscruffytheirwinterpelageisgivingwaytotheirsummercoatofchestnutredMerlinthelabradorisunconcernedbyourpotentialquarrypreferringtopushherlargeheadintothenearestpalmforascratchTheroebuckhassteppeddownfromtheskylineandhas

presenteditselfbroadsidewithasafebackstopforashotFromourpositionbodiespressedagainstthegroundwecanseethebuckleanforwardandtastetheairitslipsseekingawarningscentAlanstopsforaninstanttakesaimandslipsthesafetycatchbackBeforethebuckhasachancetoturnthereisabanganditfallstotheground

CurdCheeseCucumberFlatBeanAniseedandSesame

AccordingtotheBritishCucumberGrowersAssociationifallthecucumbersgrownintheBritishseasonwerelaidendtoendtheywouldgoalmostrightroundtheworldYetdespitethegreatnumberavailabletousaswithalotoffruitandvegetablesmostcucumbersareflowninfromEuropeorbeyondItseemsashamewhentherealityisthattheyarerelativelyeasytogrowintheUKHavingsaidthatgrowingcucumberscommerciallytakesalotofskillThecropsaresusceptibletodamagefrompestsmakingthemdifficulttogroworganicallyTheorganiccucumberswegetcomefromTheCommunityFarmwheretheteamensuresthatwearerarelyshortofseasonalproduceTheirlocationinChewMagnajust7milesawayisverygoodnewsforusOtherthanaquickcucumberpickleandadressingthissaladismadeto

orderhighlightingthewayfreshproduceatitsbestmarksthestartofaproductivesummerHerewemakeuseofcucumberandflatbeansbothofwhichgrowsplendidlyearlyinourglasshousesThesewillbeavailableforthosegrowingoutdoorsinlatespringtoearlysummerTheaniseeddressingworksharmoniouslywiththejuicycucumberanddelightfullysweetflatbeans

SERVES4100gflatbeanschopped1tspsesameseeds3youngcucumbers1tspaniseed(orfennelseeds)100mlcidervinegar100gcastersugar8tbspewersquoscurd(orgoatrsquoscurdorafreshyoungcheese)50gcheeserindtheolderanddrierthebetterfinelygrated(therindofunwaxedewersquosmilkcheeseisideal)

fineseasalt12borageflowersandafewwatercressleavestogarnish

FORTHEWATERCRESSDRESSING

70mlbuttermilk(ifunavailablestir1tspvinegarinto65mlmilkandleavefor5minutes)

35gmayonnaise(seePaprikaMayonnaiseonhereifyouwouldliketomakeitfromscratchomittingthepaprika)abunchofwatercressstalks

mustardpowderseasalt

Blanchtheflatbeansinfast-boilingsaltedwaterfor2minutesuntiljusttenderthendrainandleaveinicedwaterToastthesesameseedsinadryfryingpantilltheyturngoldenthentipthemoutofthepanontoaplatetopreventburningCutonecucumberinto5mmdiceandsprinkleliberallywithsaltLeavetodraininasievefor20ndash30minutestogivethefinishedpickleacrunchHeattheaniseedinadrypantillitspitsandcracklesTakethepanofftheheatcarefullyaddthevinegarandthenstirinthesugaruntildissolvedAllowthistocoolsomewhatwhileyourinsethesaltfromthecubedcucumberPutthecubesinabowlandcoverwiththewarmvinegarmixtureLeavetocoolThiswillkeepinthefridgefor5daysshouldyouchoosetomakeitinadvance

TomakethedressingputalltheingredientsinablenderkeepingbackafewofthewatercressstalksandpulseuntilthestalksareveryfinelychoppedThemixtureshouldbenothickerthansinglecreamandabeautifulpalegreencolourTasteandaddmoreofthestalksshouldyouwanttoincreasethatfreshgreenpeppertastefromthemustardoilwithinSeasonwithsaltandsetaside

Trimtheendsand2longsidesfromtheother2cucumbersandpeelintostripswithaY-shapedvegetablepeelerndashoronamandolineshouldyouwantsuper-tidyslicesLaytheseoneachservingplatecurlingthestripsoveranddresswithalittlefineseasaltSpoonscoopsofewersquoscurdandrolltheminthegratedcheeserindPlacetheseamongstthestripsofcucumberAddafewcubesofpickledcucumberandateaspoonoftheaniseedmarinadetoeachplateScattertheflatbeansovertheplatesandthenspoonoverthewatercressdressingFinishwiththedelicateblueborageflowersafewsmallwatercressleavesandthetoastedsesameseedsMarvellouscoloursandtidyonthetastebuds

CrabSaladwithNewPotatoesPickledCarrotand

SmokedPaprikaMayonnaise

WehaveoftenwonderedwhycrabmeatisnotmorepopularinBritainnowadaysMostcrabcaughtinBritishwatersissentstraighttoEuropewhereitisinhighdemandPerhapswesimplydonrsquotknowhowtocookthemlessstillhowtoeatthemAdmittedlypreparingawholecrabtakespracticeandcanbeamessyandtime-consumingaffairHoweverifyousurroundyourselfwithagroupoffriendsfurnishyourselveswithagoodloafofbreadandacoupleofbeveragespreferablyofthealcoholicvarietyyouwillseehowmuchfunitistopractiseThenativebrowncrabisdeliciousandthespidercrabrankshigherthanlobsterintasteformanyusincludedItistrulyadoredinSpaincommandingthehighestshellfishpricesIfyouneedmoregoodreasonstoeatBritishcrabmeatrememberthatitisrelativelyinexpensiveandhasbettersustainabilitycredentialsthanmostfishyoufindinthesupermarketThequantitiesgivenforthesmokedpaprikamayonnaisemakemorethan

youneedforthisrecipebutitisveryversatileServeitwithothersaladssmokedfishandasageneralsubstituteforboughtmayonnaiseWeguaranteethatittopsanythingyoucanbuyinashop

SERVES4200gnewpotatoesscrubbedcleanandcutinto5cmchunks1livebrowncrabor2livespidercrabs200gspringsaladleaves80mlTheEthicureanSaladDressing(seehere)afewpinchesofgroundmacebronzedillorfennelfronds100gPickledCarrots(seehere)afewedibleflowers(optional)

FORTHESMOKEDPAPRIKAMAYONNAISE

1largefree-rangeeggyolkfrac12tbsphoneyfrac12tbspDijonmustardfrac12tbspsmokedpaprika

1tspfineseasaltabout450mlrapeseedoil1tbspcidervinegar

FirstmakethemayonnaiseUsingastickblenderelectricwhiskorfreestandingelectricmixercombinetheeggyolkhoneymustardpaprikaandsaltWhiskonfullspeedfor30secondsoruntilsmoothWiththewhiskorblenderrunningonfullspeedveryslowlystartaddingtheoilAfterathirdoftheoilhasbeenmixedinaddthevinegarthencontinueinthesamefashionwiththerestoftheoilBesuretopourinaveryfinesteadystreamtobeginwithifyouaddtoomuchoilearlyonthemayonnaisewillsplitAstheoilisbeingincorporatedthemayonnaiseshouldstarttothickentoathickorangey-redemulsion(youmaynotneedalltheoil)Checkthetasteandseasonwithmoresaltandvinegarifnecessary

Cookthepotatoesinboilingsaltedwateruntiltenderthendrainandleavetocool

CookandpreparethecrabsasdescribedoverleafPlacesomeofthesaladleaveson4servingplateswiththepotatoesAddmoreleavesintertwiningthemwiththecrabmeatDresseachlayerasyougowithsaladdressingwhiletryingtomaintainheightinthedishtokeepitlookingattractiveTheclawsofthecrablookgreatwhenextractedwholesocombinethesewiththeflakedwhitecrabmeatforextravisualappealSpoononasmuchofthesmokedpaprikamayonnaiseasyouwishthenfinishwithafewpinchesofmacethebronzedillorfennelfrondspickledcarrotsandanyedibleflowersyoumayhaveServeimmediately

PREPARINGCRAB

HowtocookacrabThefirststepincookingacrabisknowinghowtokillit

humanelyOurheadchefMatthewwhoworkedformanyyearsasafishmongerisconvincedthattheonlywaytodothisistoputthecrabinthefreezerfor2hoursorsofirstTheeffectistonumbthecrabandensurethatthepainisminimisedwhenitiskilledWhenyoutakethecraboutofthefreezerturnitonitsbackliftthetailawayandlocatethedimplerightinitscentreTakeasharpskewerorothersharpthinimplementandpushitthroughthedimplethenasitmeetsthetopshellmoveitfromsidetosideDothesamebetweenthecrabrsquoseyespushingthe

skewerthroughandeasingitfromsidetoside

ThecrabshouldbecookedimmediatelyafterkillingItwillneed15minutesperkilograminalargepanofwell-saltedboiling

waterndashweallowatablespoonofsaltperlitreIfyouarecookingtwocrabscalculatethetimebasedontheirindividualratherthan

combinedweight

Howtoprepareacookedcrab1Turnthecrabonitsbackandtwistoffitslegsandclaws

2SeparatethetopshellfromthebottomshellbyplacingyourfingerunderthetopofitstailPullbothshellsapartusinga

heavyspoontocrackalongthelinethatisthereifitdoesnrsquotcomeawayeasily

awayeasily

3NowdonrsquotbeputoffbywhatyouseewhentheshellisfullyopenYouwillneedtodoabitoftidyingupbeforeyouareabletoappreciatethefullpotentialofthiscrustaceanStartbygettingridofthepointygreypiecesofmeatintheshell(calleddead

manrsquosfingers)andthebonybitsTheseareallinedibleYouwillneedtoremovethestomachsacjustbehindtheeyesandmouthtooThecreamybrownmeattoeithersideoftheheadisfor

somethetastiestandmostsupremelyediblesodonrsquotdiscardit

4UsingaskewerorsometweezersyounowneedtoremovethewhitemeatfromthemiddlepartofthebodyThisiswherethefirstglassofyourbeverageofchoicewillcomeinhandyastheprocessdoestakesometimeSopouryourselfadrinkandstartbycuttingthebodyintwosoitiseasiertoaccessthemeatinsideCarefullyremoveallthewhitemeatfromtheshellWhatmakesthistaskquitelaboriousisthatsomeofthedesirablewhite

meatisattachedtohardbonysectionsanditisdifficulttodifferentiatebetweenthetwoBepatient

5FinallycracktheclawsopenDIYtoolswillprobablybemoreeffectivethankitchenutensilsherendashasmallhammerworkswelloryoucouldtrythebackofaheavyknifeExtractasmuchwhitemeataspossiblewithyourtweezersorskeweranddonrsquotforgettoopenthewholeoftheclawThereismuchpreciousmeatinthelowerpartsoftheclawwhichisoftenforgottenaboutDothesamewiththelegsWithpracticethewholeprocesswilltake

youlessandlesstimeandweguaranteeitwillneverceasetobeenjoyable

SpringRadisheswithAnchovyCregravemeFraicircche

ThissimpleanchovydippairsbeautifullywithfreshradishesWeliketositaroundeatingthisinthegardenonasunnyspringeveningwhiledrinkingaglassofLimney(afantasticorganicwineproducedinSussex)andenjoyingthefirstrealwarmthoftheyearWhatrsquosgreataboutradishesisthatastheweatherbeginstowarmsodoestheirinherentfiery-pepperiness

SERVES4ndash62bunchesofradishes

FORTHEANCHOVYCREgraveMEFRAIcircCHE

alittlerapeseedorgroundnutoil1springonionfinelysliced

1springonionfinelysliced1headofwetgarlicfinelysliced(or2clovesofdriedgarlic)35gmarinatedwhiteanchovyfilletsfinelychopped75mlcregravemefraicirccheseasaltandblackpepper

HeatasplashofoilinasmallfryingpanaddthespringonionandgarlicandfryoveramediumheatuntilsoftAddtheanchoviesandcookforacouplemoreminutesTransferthemixturetoasmallbowlandleavetocoolStirinthecregravemefraicirccheandseasontotaste

ThoroughlycleantheradishesandtheirleaveskeepingtheleavesattachedHoldingtheleavesallowsyoutodiptheradishesintotheanchovysaucebeforebitingthemcleanofftheirgreeneryTherearefewsimplerormoredeliciouswaystoenjoythesepepperydelights

TroutwithKelpandShiitakeMushroomStockRiceFlatBeansandSeaKale

FindingthebestlocalingredientsisoneofthemostrewardingtasksforusatTheEthicureanSoweweredelightedwhenTessaTrickspartoftheEthicureanfamilydescribedhowcommittedherfatherwastofishinginthelocalareaHerfamilyrsquosfreezerwewereinformedwasalwaysuptomaximumcapacitywithrainboworbrowntroutcaughtinthenearbyChewValleyorBlagdonLakesItwasnosurprisetohearthattheyreferredtotroutaslsquotheTrickrsquosfamilycurrencyrsquoCharlieTricksstartedfishingattheageof10intheRiverYeoHenowpreferstofishatthebanksofthelakeashecanmovearoundandchoosehisspotBankfishingismoreofachallengebutthisaddstotheexcitementwhenyoudoeventuallysucceedincatchingsomethingworthcookingTheTrickseattroutatleastonceaweekandhavedevelopedan

impressivecatalogueofrecipesovertheyearsItwasourtasktoofferthemsomethingnewthatwouldfitwithourmenuThisreciperequirestwoJapanese-stylestockswhichneedpreparingadayinadvanceUnlikeEuropeanstockswhichoftenrequirelongcookingJapanesestocksarequicklukewarm-waterpreparationsthatuseumami-richingredientssuchasmushroomsdriedfishandseaweeds(seehereformoreaboutlsquoumamirsquo)ThesimplicityfreshnessandseasonalityofJapanesefoodarequalitiesthatweoftentrytoreplicateKelpisfrequentlyusedinJapanesestocksandinthisinstanceweusednativekelpdriedinaverylowovenYoushouldbeabletofindkelplabelledaskombuinorientalmarketsandhealthfoodstoresWhenCharlieandhisfamilytriedthisdishweworriedthatthedelicate

ingredientsaccompanyingthefishwouldnotstanduptoitbutthetablewasalivewithtalkofribonucleotidesinmushroomsguanylatecompoundsinumamiandseaweedstocksBytheendoftheirdinnertheTrickswerecommittedtoattemptingbriningathome

SERVES4300gbasmatirice40gseasalt1rainbowtroutweighing800gndash1kgfilletedwithpinbonesremoved6tbspmirin(ricewine)

6tbspmirin(ricewine)100gonionsfinelydiced50gceleriacfinelydiced50gwhitemushroomsfinelydiced2staranise1tspfennelseeds200gflatbeanstrimmedandcutinto2cmslices500gseakale(orkale)stalksremovedcutinto3cmstrips

FORTHEMUSHROOMSTOCK

50gdriedwholeshiitakemushrooms(theready-sliceddriedonesaremuchstrongersoreduceto10gifthatiswhatyouhave)FORTHEKELPSTOCK

20gdriedkelp(kombu)

Firstpreparethestocks(seeingredientsoverleaf)Forthemushroomstockwashthedriedshiitakethensoakin600mlcoldwaterovernightinaglassormetalbowlDonrsquotworryifyourkitchensmellsasifthereisagasleakthepungentshiitakewillbethecauseThefollowingdaystrainthestockthroughapieceofmuslinandchill

RinsethedriedkelpofanysandorresidueinabowlofcoldwaterBebriefsoasnottoloseitsconcentratedflavourPut12litreswaterinasaucepansetitoveralowheatandlookoutfortinybubblesappearingonthebaseofthepanTurnofftheheataddthekelpthencoverthepanandleaveforanhourswitchingtheheatonagainfor3minuteshalfwaythroughtomaintainthetemperatureIfyouhaveathermometerthetemperatureshouldholdcloseto60degCAnythinghigherwillreleasesulphurcompoundsiodineandaldehydesfromthekelpwhichwilltaintthesweetanddelicatestockStrainthestockthroughmuslinleavetocoolthenchill

Combinethe2stocksthenmeasureout750mlSetbothportionsofstockaside

WashthericeinasieveunderplentyofcoldrunningwaterTheaimistoremoveallthestarchsokeepgoinguntilthewaterrunscompletelyclearThismaytake10minutesormorebutgivesperfectriceeverytimeifthisstepisfollowedStirthericerubbingitgentlywithyourfingertipstoloosen

stepisfollowedStirthericerubbingitgentlywithyourfingertipstoloosenanyremainingstarchthenleavetodrainBasmatiwillabsorboneandaquartertimesitsweightinwaterduringcookingEvenifyoudonrsquotpossessaricesteamerbeautifulfluffyricecanbeachievedwithasaucepanandwell-fittinglidPutthedrainedriceintoafairlywidepanadd375mlwaterthencoverandsetaside

Tomakeabrineaddthe40gseasalttothe750mlmixedstockandstiruntilithasdissolvedCutthetroutfilletsinto4evenportionspersideAddthesetothebrineandrefrigerateforprecisely20minutesthendrainInthemeantimeheattheremainingstocktoasimmerandthentasteitItwillbeeversosubtleanddelicatebutyourtonguewillregistersomethingspecificsomethingcomplexyethardtopindownTheelusiveumamitastetheessenceofJapanesecookingispresentyetverydelicateAddthemirinandthenaddsaltapinchatatimeTasteagainandnoticehowthesweetnessandsalthaveaddeddepthSeasongraduallyuntilyouarepleasedwiththebalance

PutthepanofriceoverahighheatandwatchforittocometotheboilThemomentitdoesaddateaspoonofsaltandstirCoverthepantightlyandreducetheheattolowCookfor10minutesresistingthetemptationtopeerintothepanTheideaistotrytomimicaricesteamersothesteamneedstobetrappedbythelidAfter10minutesturntheheatoffbutleavethelidonforafurther10minutesContinuetoresistthetemptationtopeerin

Heattheovento120degCGasMarkfrac12BoilakettleandpourthewaterintoadeepbakingtraytoadepththatwillcoverthefishfilletscomfortablyAddtheonionsceleriacmushroomsstaranisefennelseedsandthedrainedfishfilletsPlaceintheovenandleavefor10minutes

Blanchtheflatbeansinapanofboilingsaltedwaterfor2minutesandtheseakaleinaseparatepanfor1minutethendrainRunaforkoverthericetoloosentheperfectlycookedfluffygrainsthendivideitbetween4servingbowlsandarrangethegreensarounditThefishwillbedelicatelypoachedbythispointPutthefishfilletsontopofthericeandpourtheclearstockaroundtheoutsideAfive-stagepalatepleaserforcertain

FRESHWATERFISH

Beingisland-dwellerswehavebeenexposedtomorewaterwaysthanmanyotherplacesaroundtheworldandwehavehadthetimeandopportunitytodevelopbetterfishingpracticesInrecentyearsfreshwaterfishhasbeenlabelledashavinganunsavourymuddyqualitytoitThisisnotatotallyunfoundedcommentespeciallyifthefishcomesfromhighsiltcontentwatersthatarerelativelystagnantGiventhestrainthatthefishingindustryisimposingonthemarineenvironmentthoughfreshwaterfishingisagoodsustainablealternativeMoreovernotallfreshwaterfishtastemuddyTroutinseasonforexampledoesnotIfcaughtshortlybeforeorafteritsbreedingperiodthefisharefullofmiltoreggswhichwillmakethemdeceptivelylargerinappearanceandcontributetothatlsquomuddyrsquoorlsquogrittyrsquotasteBewarned

Welikethefactthatthetroutwehaveonourmenucomesfromamanwhohasbeenfishinginthelocalareaforover50yearsWeareconvincedthathisexperienceandknowledgetricklesdowninsomeformorotherandleadstoabetterdishWhenweaskedhimhowfishinginthelocalareahadchangedovertheyearshebelievedthebiggestdifferencetobeintheflyvariationFortyyearsagolargenumbersofbigredsedgeflieswhichthetroutdevouredwerecommonlyseeninmidsummerNowadayssedgesaremuchsmallersothetroutismoredifficulttoenticeNodoubtthisaddstothechallengeandmakesitevenmoreworthwhiletogetacatch

GoatMeatballsMashLovageButterandMustardGreens

BeforewefoundtheWalledGardenweusuallyategoatrsquosmeatonlyatStPaulrsquosCarnivalinthecentreofBristolTherulewasthatwewouldlocatethestallswiththelongestqueuesanddevourasmanyCaribbeancurriesasnecessaryinourquesttofindthebestItwasatthiscalypso-infusedeventthatwehadourannualintakeofsucculentgoatrsquosmeatGoatrsquosmeatwascommonplaceintheUKuntilthemid-seventeenth

centuryNowmostofitisimportedfromeasternEuropeoffthebackofthedairyindustrythereandisrarelyfreerangeThemeatiscertainlyflavoursomebutittendstobetoughwhichmeansthatslowcookingisessentialFromanethicalpointofviewusingwhatwouldotherwisebeaby-productofthedairyindustrymakesperfectsenseManyfarmersseethemalekidsasadrainontheirresourcesOncetheyareborntheyservenopurposesotheyhavetobekilledThisseemsaterriblewasteconsideringtheenergydevotedtobreedingthemOurgoatrsquosmeatsupplierisCabritobasednearWellington(seealsoourCheeseboardhere)ItdoesnotbreedgoatsspecificallytosellonInsteaditbuysthebilliesfromsmall-scalefarmersraisesthemasfree-rangemeatandsellsthemtorestaurantsItrsquosworthaskingyourlocalbutcherwhethertheycantrackdownsomeBritishgoatrsquosmeatWehavenodoubtthatitwillbegintobecomemorepopularandmoreeasilyavailablesoonItwouldbefantasticifin50yearstimeafoodhistorianwroteofthereturnofgoatrsquosmeattotheBritishdietinthefirstpartofthetwenty-firstcenturyTheresponsewehavehadfromcustomerstothisdishhasbeen

overwhelmingthoughnotsurprisingthemeatissucculentandsweetitishighinproteinandironandcontainslessfatthanporkbeeforlambWefindthatmostpeopleareintriguedbythesemeatballsandwanttoknowmoreaboutgoatrsquosmeat

SERVES450gbread1frac12tspsalt1tsplovageseeds(ifnotavailableomitthesaltanduse1frac12tspcelerysalt)1tspcoarselygroundblackpepper

1tspcoarselygroundblackpepperfrac12tspdriedchilliflakes1tspcuminseeds550ggoatrsquosmeatfinelyminced1largeegglightlybeatenrapeseedoil50gonionfinelydiced25gcarrotslicedintohalfmoons25gceleriacfinelydiced250mlbrownchickenstock(seehere)200mlmedium-sweetciderabunchoflargemustardgreenscutintostrips2ndash3cmwidefrac12tspEnglishmustardValorPotatoMash(seehere)toserveseasalt

FORTHELOVAGEBUTTER

100mlbrownchickenstock(seehere)2tsplovageseeds(orahandfuloflovageleaves)75mlwhitewine3eggyolks185gcoldunsaltedbuttercutinto1cmcubesadashofvintagecidervinegarsuchasOstlerrsquos

Heattheovento180degCGasMark4BlitzthebreadsaltandspicesinablenderorfoodprocessortomakefinecrumbsPuttheminabowladdthemincedgoatrsquosmeatandeggandmixthoroughlyDividethemixtureinto12andshapeintoballsIthelpstorubalittlecookingoilontoyourhandstostopthemeatsticking

Heatalittlerapeseedoilinasmallsaucepanaddtheonioncarrotandceleriacthencoverandsweatoveralow-mediumheatuntilthevegetablesarebeginningtosoftenRemovefromtheheatandsetaside

PutthemeatballsinadeepbakingtininwhichtheyjustfitinasinglelayerPouroverthechickenstockandciderandaddthesoftenedvegetables

PouroverthechickenstockandciderandaddthesoftenedvegetablesCoverwithfoilplaceintheovenandroastfor30minutesTakeoffthefoilandroastfor10minuteslongeruntilthemeatballsarenutbrownincolourwheretheysitabovetheliquid

Meanwhilemakethelovagebutterputthestocklovageseedsandwineinasaucepanandboiluntilreducedbytwo-thirdsitsvolume(ifusingfreshlovageadditaftertheliquidhasreducedandleavetoinfusefor20minutes)StrainthemixturethroughafinesieveintoaheatproofbowlandallowtocoolslightlyWhiskintheeggyolksPlacethebowloverapanofsimmeringwatermakingsurethewaterdoesnottouchthebaseofthebowlWhiskuntilthemixturebecomesthickandairyAtthispointstartwhiskinginthebutteronecubeatatimewaitinguntilithascompletelymeltedbeforeaddingthenextpieceAfterafewpiecesofbutterhavebeenaddedyoucanstartadding2or3cubesatatimeThemorebutteryouincorporatethemoreyoucanaddeachtimeSeasontotastewithseasaltandadashofcidervinegarifyouwish

PlaceafryingpanoveramediumheatWhenitishotaddafilmofrapeseedoilfollowedbythemustardgreensmustardandsalttotasteCookstirringfrequentlyuntiltheleaveshavewilted

Servethemeatballsimmediatelywiththemashwiltedgreensandlovagebutter

daggerWhenweresearchedtheeatingofgoatmeatinthiscountrywefoundthatitwascommonplaceuntilabout1650LuciusColumellatheprominentRomanagriculturalwriterrecommendedthatevensickgoatswouldbefitforhumanconsumptioniftheyweresaltedanddrycuredIntheElizabethanerathephysicianThomasMoufetmaintainedthatoldgoatsshouldbeeatenbytenderisingthemBycontrastroastkidwasafavouriteseventeenth-centuryspringtimedishIntheeighteenthcenturytheWelshnaturalistThomasPennantreportedthatkidswerealsquocheapandplentifulprovisioninthewintermonthsrsquowhiledriedandsaltedgoathaunchesknownaslsquohungvenisonrsquowereeateninsteadofbaconInhisbookofBritishzoologyheclaimedlsquoThismakesanexcellentpastygoesunderthenameofrockvenisonandislittleinferiortothatofdeerThusnatureprovidesevenonthetopsofhighandcraggymountainsnotonlynecessariesbutdelicaciesfortheinhabitantsrsquo(BritishZoology1776)

OxTonguewithSwedeParsleyandCiderVinegar

TongueshouldberegardedunsqueamishlyasanexcellentcutofmeatsuitableforuseinadiverserangeofdishesInVictoriantimesitcertainlywouldhavemadeanappearanceonthecoldtableOnecombinationthatdatesbacktothefourteenthcenturydescribedbyDorothyHartleyaslsquoalwayspopularwiththemenfolkrsquowasarichthickandcreamymustardsaucepouredoverslicesofoxtongueThisrecipeandthefollowingonerequireyoutobrineyourowntongue

PatiencereallyisavirtueinthiscaseaweekofbriningfollowedbyacomparativelyshorttimeinthepotandyouareleftwithadeliciouspieceofmeatTongueisgreatinsaladsinasandwichorroastedwithvegetablesWecouldgoon

SERVES4WITHLEFTOVERS

1oxtongue200gswedepeeledandcutinto25cmcubes5staranise50mldoublecreamabunchofradishesfinelysliced50gflat-leafparsleyleavesrapeseedoilalittlecidervinegarseasaltsmokedseasalttoserve(optional)

FORTHEBRINE

200gcastersugar300gseasalt6juniperberries3cloves3staranise6blackpeppercorns6lovageseeds(orfennelseeds)2bayleaves

2bayleaves

FORCOOKINGTHETONGUE

100gonionfinelydiced50gcarrotfinelydiced50gceleriacorceleryfinelydiced10parsleystalks2bayleaves10peppercorns4staranise2cloves

Putalltheingredientsforthebrineinalargesaucepanadd2litresofwaterandbringtotheboilstirringoccasionallytodissolvethesugarandsaltRemovefromtheheatandleavetocoolthenplaceinthefridgeandchilluntilthetemperatureisbelow5degCPutthetongueinthebrineandweightitdownwithanon-reactiveitemndashsomethingwoodenplasticorceramicwilldothetrickMakesurethetongueiscompletelysubmergedCoverandleaveinthefridgeforaweek

Drainandrinsethetonguethenputitinalargesaucepanwith2litresofwaterandalltheingredientslistedforcookingthetongueBringtoasimmercoverandcookverygentlyfor4hourscheckingthewaterlevelhourlyandtoppingitupasnecessaryRemovethetonguefromitscookingliquorandleaveuntilcoolenoughtohandlethenpeelitItisimportanttopeelitwhileitisstillwarmotherwisethefatssolidifymakingthistaskmuchmoredifficult

TocooktheswedeplacethestaraniseinasaucepanaquarterfullofwaterandsetasteamerbasketoverthetopBringtoasimmerPlacetheswedeinthebasketcoverandsteamfor35ndash40minutesuntiltenderTransfertheswedetoablenderorfoodprocessoraddthecreamandblitzuntilcompletelysmoothSeasonwithsaltandleavetocool

Thinlysliceabout200gofthetongueSpoontheswedepureacuteeonto4servingplatesandtopwiththetongueslicedradishesandparsleyLightlydrizzlealittlerapeseedoilovertheparsleyandfinallyaddafewsplashesofcidervinegarandasprinklingofsmokedsaltifyouhaveit

cidervinegarandasprinklingofsmokedsaltifyouhaveit

daggerInEnglandtheuseofoxencastratedmalesbothfordraftpullingcartsandploughingandforbeefwasoncegeneralpracticeFourpairsofoxenwouldpullaplougheachanimalagedwithayearbetweenStaggeringthepairsmeantthateachyeartwowouldbefattenedforbeefandsoldthuspayingtheirwayTheEnclosuresActsofthelateeighteenthandearlynineteenthcenturieswhichreducedfieldsizeshastenedtheendoftheoxrsquosuseastheteamsofeightneededenoughspacetoturnattheendofeachfurrowBythebeginningofthetwentiethcenturythemorehigh-maintenancehorsewasfavouredforitsspeedandmanoeuvrabilityandeventuallyreplacedthedependableoxTodaywearenoteatingthedraftcattlethatourancestorswouldhaveknownbutinfactbeefcattleandinsomecasescalves

OxTonguewithCauliflowerGilliflowerandHazelnuts

InherbookFoodandDrinkinBritainCAnneWilsonreferstothepracticeofeatingtonguewithgilliflowersmorecommonlyknownascarnationsTheyhaveaflavourthatverycloselyresemblescloveThispairinghasbeenallbutforgottenaboutApparentlyifawitchtriestokillyouyoushouldhandheraredcarnationasshewillhavetocountthepetalsgivingyouenoughtimetofinishyouroxtongueandgilliflowerdinnerandescapeanynastyspells

SERVES41cauliflowerdividedintoflorets2tbspplainflourfrac14tspgroundcloves2eggslightlybeatenwithapinchofsalt30gbutter200goxtonguebrinedandcookedasintherecipeonherethencutinto12slices50ghazelnutstoastedinadryfryingpanandthendustedwithfrac14tsp

groundcinnamon1tablespoonroastedcobnutoil(orwalnutoil)

FORTHEGILLIFLOWERSYRUP

abunchoforganiccarnations(besuretouseonesthathavenrsquotbeensprayed)100mlcidervinegar100gicingsugarplus2tbsp

YouwillneedtopreparethegilliflowersyrupafewdaysinadvanceCutthepetalsfrom3carnationsandputtheminabowlCoverwiththecidervinegarandthenstirinthe100gicingsugarWeightdownwithaplateandsetasidefor3daysatroomtemperature

Onthedayyouwanttoservethesaladtrimthepetalsfrom2flowerheadsrinsethemandspindryinasaladspinnerDrythepetalsonateatoweltocatchthelastdropsofmoisturepreventinganyflavourlossStrainthegilliflowersyrupandtasteitTherewillbenotesofcloveandpepperthoughitmayneedsweeteningalittlefurtherwithicingsugartomellowthevinegarSet2tablespoonsofthesyrupasideaddingthe2tablespoonsoficingsugartoitReservethistocaramelisetheoxtonguebeforeserving

Cookthecauliflowerfloretsinlightlysimmeringsaltedwaterforabout10minutesuntilaldenteDraincoolinice-coldwateranddrainagainverythoroughlyMixtheflourwiththegroundclovesDustthecauliflowerfloretsinthismixtureandthendipthemintothebeateneggsHeatthebutterinafryingpanandfrythecauliflowerinitinsmallbatchestillgolden

Afterfryingthecauliflowercleanoutthepanwithkitchenpaperandplaceitoveramedium-highheatBrushtheoxtonguesliceswiththecaramelisingsyrupandplaceinthehotpanCookwithoutmovingthemuntilyoucanseethembrowningattheedgesthenturnandcolourtheothersidetoo

Assemblethedishbyarrangingthecaulifloweroxtongueandpetalson4servingplatesDropthecinnamon-dustedhazelnutsontopanddresswiththegilliflowersyrupandroastedcobnutoil

SaltMarshLambwithTidalGreens

InEnglandthebenefitsofsalt-marshgrazinghavebeenknownsincethethirteenthcenturyyetformanyyearsthevastmajorityofthemeathasbeenexportedtoFrancewhereitisrecognisedasadelicacyInEnglishFood(MichaelJoseph1974)JaneGrigsonwrotelsquoPeoplelivingaroundRomneyMarshhelliphavetolookacrossatflocksofsheepfeedingonthesaltmarshesandknowthatthemeatwillbypasstheirbutchersandbeservedtotouristsinNormandyBrittanyandParisasagneaupreacute-saleacutespecialiteacutedelamaisonpricetomatchrsquoHoweversaltmarshlambisonceagainbecomingavailablehereFarmerswithcoastalpasturebringtheirflocktotheseamarshesinspringwhentheweatherimprovessothesheepcangrazeclosetothewaterrsquosedgefeedingonseavegetationsuchassamphiresorrelsealavenderandthriftWetookaforagingcoursethatambledthroughthesaltmarshonthe

SevernwherethelambwebuyfortherestaurantgrazeWelearnedaboutedibleseagrassesseakaleandseabeetandrealisedthatwehadsomenewgreenstoservealongsidethisprimelambshoulderWealsoserveitwithfathenacommonplantoftenconsideredtobeaweedwhichgrowsingardensroadsidevergesandhedgerows

SERVES6ndash81tinofanchoviesdrained1shoulderofsaltmarshlambbonedweighingabout2kgrapeseedoil4onionscutintoquarters4largecarrotspeeledbutleftwhole4spearsofrosemaryabunchofparsley1headofgarliccutinhalfthroughitsequator200mldryvermouth1kgnewpotatoesaknobofbutterasmallbunchofmintchopped

FORTHESALTMARSHGREENS

abunchofseaarrowgrassorPickledSamphire(seehere)abunchofseaarrowgrassabunchofseabeet(canbereplacedwithspinachorkale)abunchofseakale(canbereplacedwithpurplesproutingbroccoli)abunchoffathen(canbereplacedwithspinach)aknobofbutter

Heattheovento160degCGasMark3ThefirsttaskistogettheanchoviesintothemeatspikethelambinseveralplaceswithasmallknifeworkingitunderthetoplayerofthefleshlaterallyratherthandownwardsPushtheanchovyfilletsintotheincisionsTheywilldissolveduringthelongcookingprocessseasoningthemeatandnegatingtheneedtosaltthejointfurtherEvenifyouarenotkeenontheserichsaltyandumamifishfilletsweurgeyounottoomitthemThefinalflavourwillnotbeoffishbutofseasonedlamb

Heatathinfilmofrapeseedoilinalargeheavy-basedfryingpanaddthelambshoulderandsearoverahighheatuntilbrownedalloverPuttheonionscarrotsrosemaryparsleyandgarlicinaroastingtinandplacethelambontopPourinthevermouthcoverwithfoilandplaceintheovenRoastfor3frac12ndash4hoursuntilyouhaveatenderroastofthehighestorderRemovefromtheovenandleavetorestforatleast20minutes

ScrubthepotatoesandcutthemsotheyareallroughlythesamesizeasthesmallestonesCookinboilingsaltedwateruntiltenderthendrainwellandtosswithaknobofbutterandthemint

Washthegreensandthenblanchthemwholeinfast-boilingwell-saltedwaterfor1minuteDrainwellandtosswithaknobofbutterServethelambwiththegreensandpotatoes

daggerAttherestaurantweusuallysourceabreedcalledSuffolkCrossCharolloisThebreedwasfirstimportedfromFrancein1976originallyfromthetownofCharollesintheSaocircneLoireregionofFrancewhereitgrazesalongsidethefamousCharollaisCattleOurbutcherbuysourlambfromfarmsbasedonthebanksoftheRiverSevernnearFramptononSevernTheyareslaughteredatStonehouseGloucestershireandsohave

lessthan5foodmilesattributabletothemThewildseaplantsonwhichourlambfeedarehighinsaltlevelsandiodinemakingthemusclecellsinthefleshretainmoremoistureThemeatisconsequentlysweeterjuicierandnotaspinkasmountainlamb

SteamedRabbitPudding

RabbithashistoricallybeenregardedaspoormanrsquosgameItwasoneoftheonlywildanimalsthatcommonerswereallowedtohunttherestbeingreservedforthecrownorthegentryTodaypeoplearescepticalaboutcookingwithrabbitbutitisundoubtedlygrowinginpopularityAtTheEthicureanwecookonlywildrabbitsfavouringtheirfirmtextureandgameyflavourMuchoftherabbitavailableinshopsisfarmedPleaseavoidbuyingthisasittendstobeblandandaltogetheruninterestingInsteadaskyourbutchertoorderyouayoungwildrabbitItisagooddealeasiertoidentifytheageofarabbitthathasthepelt(fur)

stillattachedAnoldtoughrabbitwillhaveascruffypatchycoatwornclawstoughearsandbrokenanddamagedteethThereislittletodowiththeseinthekitchenbutslowroastthemAyoungrabbitshouldhaveaglossyhealthycoatgoodstrongclawsandpliableearsInthisrecipeweemployagreatBritishtraditionthesteamedsuet

puddingBeforesealingtherabbitinthepastrywepressure-cookitwholeinMorganSweetciderfromthelowerorchardWehaveseentheoddappledropandlandonarabbitrsquosheadTheironyisnotlostonus

SERVES48springonionsouterlayerandrootsremoved1rabbitskinnedkidneysremoved1bottle(330ml)PerryrsquosMorganSweetciderorothergoodsweetcider5sprigsofthyme5blackpeppercornsseasalt

FORTHESUETPASTRY

300gself-raisingflourapinchofsalt150gcoarselygratedbeefsuetbutterforgreasing

PlaceagriddleoverahighheatandleaveforafewminutestogetveryhotAddthespringonionsandcookturningoccasionallyuntiltheyarecharred

AddthespringonionsandcookturningoccasionallyuntiltheyarecharredandtenderPlacetheminapressurecookerwiththewholerabbitciderthymeandpeppercornsAttachthelidandplaceonthehighestheatuntilitisatfullpressurethenturntheheatdownandcookfor1frac12hoursRemovefromtheheatandleavetocooltoroomtemperaturebeforeremovingthelid(Ifyoudonrsquothaveapressurecookercooktherabbitinacoveredpanoveralowheatfor3hourscheckingtheliquidleveleveryhourorsoandaddingmoreciderifnecessary)TaketherabbitoutofthecookerreservingtheliquidThoroughlyflakeallthemeatfromthebonesPlacethemeatinasaucepanstrainthecookingliquidthroughwetmuslinorafinesieveandcookoveramedium-highheatuntiltheliquidhasalmostcompletelyevaporatedSeasonwithsalttotaste

TomakethepastrysifttheflourintoabowladdthesaltandsuetandmixwellwithaknifeSlowlyadd200mlwaterstirringitintomakeadoughTurnoutontoaflouredsurfaceandkneadlightlyforacoupleofminutesthenrolloutto5mmthickGreasea12litrepuddingbasinwellwithbutterthenlineitwiththesuetpastryreservingaboutaquarterforthelidFillthebasinwiththerabbitRolloutthereservedpastrytofitthetopofthebasinthenputitoverthefillingandpinchtheedgestogetherTrimoffanyexcesspastry

Takeapieceoffoillargeenoughtocoverthetopofthebasingenerouslyandfolda2ndash3cmpleatinthecentretoallowroomforexpansionCoverthebasinwiththefoiltuckingitundertherimtosealPlaceonawirestandinsidethepressurecookerandaddacoupleofinchesofwatertothepanAttachthelidtothepressurecookerandplaceoverahighheattobringittofullpressureReducetheheatandcookonfullpressurefor1frac14hours(Alternativelyyoucouldsteamtherabbitinaconventionalsteamerfor2frac12hours)RemovefromtheheatandallowtocoolalittlethenturnthepuddingoutontoalargeservingplateDiverightin

PorkJuniperandBlackIPAPie

InBritaintherelationshipsbetweenapplesbeerporkandpiesareasoldasthehillsThereismuchtocelebrateonourlittleislandandtheporkpieshouldbeworshippedattheveryleastonceaweekAlittlesmudgeof

shouldbeworshippedattheveryleastonceaweekAlittlesmudgeofmustardasliceofpiebalancedonthekneewithagoodpausebetweeneachbiteThisisapiethatmustbeeatenoutdoorsandhelpedonitswaywithagoodbestbitterordryciderWemustconfessthattheeccentricitiesofthisrecipeevolvedfromthe

greatFrenchtraditionofmakingcoarseporkterrinesWelovejuniperndashitsheadyresinousfragranceisthedelightofgindrinkersanditistrulyathomewithporkTheFrenchndashandthelategreatKeithFloydndashwouldtumbleinaclaretsavingthelastthirdofthebottleasacookrsquosperkandanothertoenjoyduringbakingWeforgowinehereforanIndiaPaleAle(IPA)andablackIPAatthatThisisnrsquotmerelyforpatrioticeffectbutbecauseofthewonderfullyhoppednatureofanIPAandtheroastedmaltybasethatcomesfromtheinclusionofdarkmaltMoorBeerbasedinPitneyinSomersetmakesaverygoodblackIPAcalledIllusionJustyntheheadbrewerrefusestoaddfinningstoclearhisbeersayinglsquoWhywouldIwanttheswimbladdersoffishinmypintpurelyforclarityrsquoHehasapointIfyoucannotfindablackIPAagoodregularIPAwilldoverywellindeedEvenifyouareunfamiliarwiththenamehot-watercrustpastryyouwill

undoubtedlyhaveeatenitifyouhaveeverindulgedinagoodporkpieItiscommonlyusedformakinghand-raisedpiesandisanimportantpartofMatthewandIainrsquosinfamouslsquopieoffsrsquoThetwoarerarelycompetitivebutwhenitcomestohand-raisingporkpies(ratherthantakingtheeasieroptionofmakingtheminamouldasbelow)wewilloftenhearthewordslsquoItrsquosonrsquofromthekitchenndashthendeadlysilenceensueswhilethetwometiculouslygoaboutshapingtheirpiesOncethepiesareintheoventhebanterandteasingbeginlsquoWaaahyourpiersquosdefinitelygoingtocrackrsquolsquoWhateverYoursissowonkyitrsquosnotevengonnastanduprightrsquoItisapastrythatcontradictstraditionalmethodsofpastrymakingneedingtobeusedwarmsoitcanbeshapedDonotletthisintimidateyoundashthisisaveryeasyandfunpastrytoworkwith

SERVES8

FORTHEFILLING

13kgporkbellymincedonacoarsesetting(askyourbutcherforthebones)200gpigrsquoslivercutinto1cmcubes200gmincedbeef10smokedstreakybaconrasherscutinto2cmpieces

10smokedstreakybaconrasherscutinto2cmpieces2garlicclovesfinelysliced15blackpeppercornsplus1tspfreshlygroundblackpepper17juniperberrieslightlycrushedfrac12tspgroundmace250mlblackIPA(orregularIPA)75mlSomersetciderbrandy1tbspfineseasalt

FORTHEJELLY

thebonesfromtheporkbelly3ndash4pigrsquostrotters1largecarrotfinelysliced1largeonionfinelysliced1bayleaf5sprigsofthyme12blackpeppercorns2ndash3lovageleaves(orceleryleaves)seasalt

FORTHEHOT-WATERCRUSTPASTRY

450gstrongwhiteflourfrac12tspsalt1tbspicingsugar1egg80glarddiced80gbutterdiced1egglightlybeatentoglaze

FirstmakethejellyPutalltheingredientsexceptthelovageandsaltinapanadd15litresofwaterandbringtotheboilReducetheheattoasimmerandcookuncoveredfor2hoursmeticulouslyskimmingoffanyscumthatrisestothesurfaceStrainthroughafinesieveintoacleanpanandbringtotheboilBoiluntilreducedtoaquarterofitsvolumethenremove

fromtheheatNowitrsquostimetotestwhetherithasreducedtothecorrectconsistencyPutatablespoonoftheliquidonaplateandleaveitinthefridgefor20minutesPushyourfingerthroughthemiddleoftheliquidIftheliquidbeginstocrinklethenitrsquosreadyIfnotcontinuetoreduceitoverahighheatforafewmoreminutesthentestagainWhenthecorrectconsistencyisachievedbringtheliquidtotheboiladdthelovageleavesandturnofftheheatLeavethelovagetoinfusefor20minutesthenremoveanddiscardTasteoncemoreandseasonwithseasaltaccordingly

YoucouldmakethestockforthejellyinapressurecookerFollowtheinstructionsabovebutcookatfullpressurefor80ndash90minutesRemovefromtheheatandallowtocooltoroomtemperaturebeforeremovingthelidThenstrainreduceandtestasabove

PutalltheingredientsforthefillinginabowlandmixwithyourhandsuntilthoroughlycombinedSetasidewhileyoumakethepastry

Heattheovento180degCGasMark4TomakethepastrymixthefloursaltandicingsugartogetherinalargebowlMakeawellinthecentreandaddtheeggCovertheeggwiththeflourPutthelardandbutterinasaucepanwith200mlwaterGraduallybringthewatertoasimmerandleaveuntilthefatshavemeltedSlowlypourthewaterandfatintotheflourCuttogetherwithaknifeuntiladoughhasstartedtoformthenturnoutontoaflouredsurfaceandkneadlightlyuntilglossyandsmoothndashacoupleofminutesmaximumUseimmediately

SetasideathirdofthepastryforthelidRollouttherestonalightlyflouredsurfaceto5mmthickandusetolinea23cmpiemouldorspringformcaketinTrimtheexcesspastryhangingovertheedgesandputtoonesideSpooninthefillingpressingitdowngentlysoitisevenlydistributedRolloutthereservedpastry3mmthicktomakealidPutitontopofthepieandpinchittothepastryedgesotherearenogapsYoucangentlyshapetherimintoaprettydesignshouldyousowishMakeasmallholeinthecentreforventing

Rolloutthepastrytrimmingsto3ndash5mmthickCutastrip5cmwideandasimilarlengthtothepieCutdiagonallyintostripsallthewaydowntheentirelengthandthenagaintheotherwaysowhatyouareleftwithare

diamondsinthecentreandhalfdiamondsontheedge(seethephotoopposite)

BrushthepiewiththebeateneggtoglazethenlaytheextrapastryinastripacrossthetopofthepieinadesignofyourchoiceleavingtheventholeclearLightlyglazetheextrapastrypieceswitheggthenplacethepieintheovenandbakefor20minutesTurntheovendownto160degCGasMark3andbakeforafurther45ndash60minutesuntilthejuicesrunclear(ifyouhaveaprobethermometertheinternaltemperatureofthepieshouldbe86degC)Ifthepieisbrowningtooquicklywhichcanoftenhappencoverittightlywithfoil

AllowthepietocooltoroomtemperaturethencarefullyremoveitfromthemouldIfthejellyhassetwarmitslightlysoitisjustliquidSlowlypourthejellyinthroughthesteamventuntilthepieisfullPlaceinthefridgefor2ndash4hourstosetthejelly

daggerWedoenjoyasplashofSomersetCiderBrandyinourpieJulianTemperleyhasmadeasuccessofdistillingcideralongwiththehelpofhistwocontinuousstillsJosephineandFifiThisisnopoorrelationofCognacbutaformidablespiritthathasafloralspiceandadepththathasbeenbroughttolifeontheSomersetlevelsJulianrsquosexperimentswithblendsbarrelsandageinghavefurnishedourrestaurantwithenoughmarvellousdrinkstokeepanySomersetciderfarmerrosie-cheeked

PearlBarleywithOldDemdikeandStGeorgersquosMushroom

Weloveumami-richfoodsandmushroomsandcheesearefantasticsourcesofitUmamiorsavouryflavourisnowconsideredtobethefifthbasictastendashtheothersbeingsweetsoursaltyandbitterTomatoescheesessuchasParmesanandCheddarandmushroomsarepackedfullofitThisdishisverysimilartotheItalianorzottoOrzottoislikerisottoonly

pearlbarleyisusedeasilymatchingthequalityofCarnaroliorVialoneNanoriceWhenrisottosandorzottosarewellexecutedtheyareadelightndashheartysoothingandoftennostalgicndashyettheycanbeimproveduponfurtherwiththeuseoftexturalcontrastsandburstsofflavouraswedointhisrecipeHereintenselyflavouredmushroomjelliesaddaburstofrichumamiandatexturalcontrastStGeorgersquosmushroomsgivehintsofwatermelonandcucumberwhileaewersquoscheesecrispaddsafineaestheticfinishtoanalreadystunningdish

SERVES4150goldDemdikecheesegrated300gpearlbarley2tbsprapeseedoil200gonionsfinelydiced150gcarrotsfinelydiced200gceleriacfinelydiced250mlredwine350mlmushroomstock(seehere)10ndash15smallStGeorgersquosmushroomsquartered(ifunavailableuseoystermushrooms)

1tbspchoppedparsleyMushroomJelly(seehere)madewithsmokedsaltifpossibleseasalt

Tomaketheewersquoscheesecrispsarrange50gofthegratedcheeseinanovalshapeonapieceofbakingparchmentPlaceanotherpieceofparchmentontopandrollitoutintoathinlayerTurnoutintoafryingpanandplaceona

topandrollitoutintoathinlayerTurnoutintoafryingpanandplaceonamedium-lowheatuntilthecheesehasmeltedandthebottomhasbeguntobrownlightlyPutthepanunderahotgrillandleaveuntilthecheeseisanevengolden-browncolouralloverLeavetocoolthenbreakinto4piecesandsetaside

PlacethepearlbarleyinasaucepancoverwithcoldwaterandbringtotheboilDrainwellthenrepeatDrainandsetasideHeathalftherapeseedoilinasaucepanaddtheonionscarrotsandceleriacandcookoveramediumheatuntiltheybegintosoftenDonotallowthemtocolourStirinthepearlbarleyfollowedbytheredwineandcookuntilthewinehasbeencompletelyabsorbedbythebarleyAddthemushroomstockaladlefulatatimewaitingforittobefullyabsorbedbeforeaddingthenextContinuefor10ndash15minutesuntilthepearlbarleyiscookedbutstillhasaslightresistancetothebite

MeanwhileheattheremainingrapeseedoilinafryingpanaddthemushroomsandfryoverahighheatuntiltenderandgoldenbrownAddthemtothepearlbarleyreservingafewforgarnishingStirintheremaininggratedcheeseandtheparsleyandseasonwithsaltServegarnishedwiththeremainingfriedmushroomsthemushroomjelliesandthecheesecrisps

RhubarbandCustard

MostpeoplecredittheeccentricVictorianswithplacingjelliesfirmlyontheBritishgastronomymapAfterallitwastheVictorianaristocracywhoexcelledatusingdecorativejelliesatbanquetstodisplaytheirpowerandsocialstandingInfactjellieshadbeenaroundforcenturiespreviouslyandsavouryjellieswerecommonatmedievalfeastsWecreatedthisdessertinhonourofRobertMayaseventeenth-century

cookwhointroducedfruitjelliestotheEnglishtableandmetwithasurprisingamountofresistanceThissuperblyflavouredjellyconsistsoftwoingredientsthatwethinkweremeanttobetogetherndashrhubarbandcustardYoudonrsquotnecessarilyhavetolayerthemexactlyasdescribedbelowYoucouldmakethinnerlayersoraddaborderofjellyetcGetcreativeJustbesuretoseteachlayerfullybeforeaddingmore

SERVES6

FORTHERHUBARBJELLY

15kgrhubarbcutinto2cmpieces150gcastersugar13ggelatine

FORTHECUSTARD

600mldoublecream1vanillapod8eggyolks200gcastersugar11ggelatine

FORTHERHUBARBCOMPOTE(OPTIONAL)

2largerhubarbstalkscutinto1ndash2cmpiecesafewtbspcastersugartotaste

Forthejellyput650mlwaterinapanandbringtotheboilPlaceasteamerbasketoverthetoplargeenoughtoholdtherhubarbAddtherhubarbtothebasketcoverwithatight-fittinglidandsteamoveralowheatfor1hourIftoomuchsteamisescapingputalayeroffoiloverthepanandputthelidon

toomuchsteamisescapingputalayeroffoiloverthepanandputthelidontopofthefoil

WhiletherhubarbissteamingmakethecustardPourthecreamintoaheavy-basedsaucepanSlitthevanillapodopenlengthwiseandscrapeouttheseedsAddtheseedsandpodtothecreamandbringtojustbelowboilingpointthenremovefromtheheatandcoolslightlyWhisktheeggyolksandsugartogetherinalargebowluntiltheyolksbecomepaleandthesugarisfullyincorporatedPourthecreamthroughafinesieveontotheeggyolkswhiskuntilsmoothandthentransfertoacleansaucepanPutthegelatinesheetsintoabowlofice-coldwaterandleavetosoakfor10minutes

HeatthecustardmixturegentlystirringconstantlyAfterafewminutesitwillbegintothickenItisvitaltostirallpartsthoroughlytopreventanyofthemixtureovercooking(Ifyouhaveadigitalthermometerthenthisisagoodtimetouseitthecustardshouldbenomorethan85degCotherwiseitwillscramble)WhenithasthickenedenoughtocoatthebackofthespoonwithoutrunningoffremovefromtheheatandplacethepanbrieflyinabowlofcoldwatertostopitcookingfurtherStrainthecustardthroughasieveintoabowlSqueezeoutanyexcessliquidfromthegelatineandaddthegelatinetothecustardstirringuntilcompletelydissolvedCoolthecustardquicklybyplacingthebowlinacoupleofinchesofcoldwaterinthesinkthenchillinthefridge

CUSTARD

InabusykitchenmakingcustardfromscratchisabitofatreatAsimplejobitisachancetostandstillandfocusononetaskit

forcesyoutoslowdownphysicallyandmentallySlowlywatchinghowtheviscosityofthecustardchangeswhilestirringconstantlyisquiteagroundingexerciseItisamomentwhenyoutakeinthesoundsandsmellsaroundyouandregainsome

clarityamidstalltheactivity

clarityamidstalltheactivity

Whentherhubarbhassteamedfor1hourremovefromtheheatanddiscardtherhubarbAllthejuiceandflavourfromtherhubarbwillbeinthewaterinthepanunderneathsokeepthisMeasureout450mloftherhubarb-infusedwaterintoacleansaucepanaddthesugarandheatgentlystirringuntildissolvedSoftenthegelatineinice-coldwaterasforthecustardSqueezeoutanyexcesswaterandaddthegelatinetothepanofftheheatStiruntilcompletelydissolvedthensetaside

Tosetthejellyyouwillneeda1-litreterrinejellymouldorbowlIfusingaterrineverylightlyoiltheinsideusingapastrybrushthenlinewithalayerofclingfilmOncetheterrineislinedwithclingfilmithelpstofilltheterrinewithwaterwhichenablesyoutoremoveanyremainingairbubblesfromtheedgesoftheterrineDiscardthewaterandgentlypatdrywithkitchenrollIgnorethisprocessifusingajellymouldorbowl

Pouralayerofjellyintoyourchosenreceptacletillabout1ndash2cmdeepPlaceinthefridgefor1frac12hoursoruntilsetfirmPuthalfthecustardinapanplaceoverthelowestpossibleheatandstircontinuouslyuntilfluidPourthecustardintothemouldoverabackofaspoonheldjustabovetherhubarbjellyThisslowsitsfallmakingitlesslikelytobreakthejellyapartPourthecustardoverthefirstlayerofrhubarbjellyandreturntothefridgeLeavefor2hoursoruntilcompletelyfirm

TakeouttheremainingjellyandplaceinasaucepanoveralowheatuntilfluidPouroverthesetlayerofcustard(usingaspoonasyoudidbefore)andreturntothefridgeuntilcompletelysetThenheattheremainingcustarduntilfluidandpouritintothemouldoverthebackofaspoonasbeforeLeaveinthefridgepreferablyovernightuntilset

Tomakethecompoteputtherhubarbinasaucepanjustbigenoughtoholditinasinglelayerandadd2tablespoonsofwaterCookcoveredoveralow-mediumheatuntiltherhubarbbeginstobreakdownStirinsugartotasteandcontinuetocookuntilthecompoteistheconsistencyofrunnyjam

tasteandcontinuetocookuntilthecompoteistheconsistencyofrunnyjamRemovefromtheheatandleavetocool

Turnthejellyoutofthemouldandservewiththecompoteifliked

daggerTheVictorianerawasthehey-dayofjellymakingthoughjellieshadbeenaroundforcenturiesInTudorandStuarttimesitwascommonforthegentrytobuildsummerhousesintheirgardensjustsothattheirbanquetingguestshadsomewherequietwheretheycouldenjoythefinaljellycourseAssugarbecamemorewidelyavailabledessert-makersmadethemostofitBytheseventeenthcenturysweetjellieswerethenormseasonedwithrosewaterandspicesOthercreationsincludedtransparentpuddingsinwhichlayersofslicedalmondsraisinscitronandcandiedlemonwerevisiblethroughthejelly

ChocolateandSaltCaramelBrownieswithCherryandElderflowerSauce

TherearecountlessrecipesforchocolatebrowniesandinitiallywethoughtthatperhapsthereweretoomanyalreadyHowevergiventhatourlocalareahassuchanillustrioushistoryinchocolateproductionwefeltitwasonlyfairtocomeupwithourownchocolaterecipeWehavetheindustriousVictorianstothankformakingchocolateavailabletothewiderpublicItwasinfactafactoryinBristolownedbyJSFryampSonsthatproducedthefirstchocolatebarin1847ThecompanywentontoproducesomeofourchildhoodfavouritessuchasFryrsquosChocolateCreamandTurkishDelightWeliketouseOriginalBeanschocolatebecauseofitsqualityandthe

companyrsquosethicswhichcloselymatchourownCo-foundedbytheenvironmentalistentrepreneurPhilippKauffmanOriginalBeansisrenownedforitszerocarbonpoliciesandpassionforsustainablefarmingTheadditionofsaltcaramelisprimarilytoenhancethesweetnessofthe

browniealthoughwehavetoadmitthatitdoesaddalottotheoverallpresentationtoo

SERVES4WITHPLENTYOFBROWNIESLEFTFORTOMORROW

250gdarkchocolateatleast72percentcocoasolids170gunsaltedbutter300gcastersugar3largeeggslightlybeaten1eggyolk80mlrapeseedoil60gplainflourfrac12tspbakingpowderfrac12tspsalt70gorganiccocoapowder50gSaltCaramel(seehere)plusextratoserve

FORTHECHERRYANDELDERFLOWERSAUCE

100gfrozensourcherries

100gfrozensourcherries50gElderflowerSyrup(seehere)orelderflowercordial

Heattheovento180degCGasMark4Lightlygreasea23cmspringformcaketin

Melt200gofthechocolateinabowlplacedoverapanoflightlysimmeringwatermakingsurethewaterdoesnottouchthebaseofthebowlRemovefromtheheat

UsinganelectricwhiskorafreestandingmixerfittedwiththepaddleattachmentbeatthebutterandsugartogetheruntilpaleandlightChangethemixerattachmenttoawhiskorcontinueusingtheelectricwhiskSlowlyaddtheeggsandtheextrayolknomorethanatablespoonatatimewhiskingthoroughlybetweeneachadditionSlowlyaddtherapeseedoilandwhiskthemixtureforafurther5minutesuntilithasaglossysilkyappearance

SiftintheflourbakingpowdersaltandcocoapowderandwhiskbrieflyuntilincorporatedUsingametalspoonfoldinthemeltedchocolatePourthemixtureintothecaketinandsmooththetopRoughlychoptheremainingchocolateandlightlypushthepiecesintothesurfaceofthecakemixRepeattheprocesswiththesaltcaramelpiecesPlaceinthecentreofovenandbakefor25minutesoruntilaknifeinsertedinthecentrecomesawaywithalittlecakemixtureattacheditshouldnotlookraw

Ifitdoesreturntotheoventestingevery3minutesRemovefromtheovenandleavetocoolonawirerack

AllowtocooltoroomtemperatureonawiretrayMeanwhileputthecherriesandelderflowersyrupinasmallsaucepanandcookoveramediumheatforabout10minutesuntilsyrupyLeavetocoolalittlebeforeserving

ThebrowniescanbeservedhotorcoldTurnoutandslicethenservewithshardsofsaltcaramelbrokenovereachportionandthewarmsyruppouredoverThebrowniescanberefrigeratedforupto5daysbutyouwouldneedagreatdealofwillpowerforthemtolastthatlongFreezingisagoodwaytolengthentheirlifeandithastheaddedbonusofincreasingthefudginess

Elderflowersyrup

100mlwater100gcastersugar2largeheadsofelderflower

Put100gcastersugarinapanwith100mlwaterandbringtotheboilstirringtodissolvethesugarImmediatelyremovefromtheheatandadd2largeheadsofelderflowerLeavetoinfusefor20minutesthenstrainthroughapieceofwetmuslinorasieveLeavetocoolthenstoreinthefridgeforuptoaweek

StrawberryandRoseLemonadePuddingwithSaffronandCiderBrandyCustard

ThisisamarvellouswayofusingupthelastjarofstrawberryjambeforethesummerglutWehavepolishedoffoneofthesepuddingsinunder5minutesbetweenthefourofusThebrandyandsaffrongivethecustardcomplexityandpunchandcomplementthestrawberryinawayyoumightnothaveexpected

SERVES6160mlRoseLemonade(seehereoruseFentimans)150gsaltedbutteratroomtemperaturecutintocubes235gcastersugar160gplainfloursifted85mlsouredcream1largeegg2tspvanillaextract1frac12tspbicarbonateofsoda100gstrawberryjamahandfulofpalerosepetalstogarnish

FORTHESAFFRONANDCIDERBRANDYCUSTARD

12saffronstamens25mlciderbrandy480mldoublecream1vanillapod6eggyolks160gcastersugar

PuttheroselemonadeandbutterinapanandwarmoverthelowestpossibleheatuntilthebutteralmostmeltsthenremovefromtheheatAddthesugarandstirinwellWhiskinthesiftedflourin2stagesuntilcompletelyincorporatedthensetasideInaseparatebowlwhisktogetherthesouredcreameggvanillaextractandbicarbonateofsodaAddthistotheroselemonadeandflourmixtureandwhisktoincorporateoncemore

lemonadeandflourmixtureandwhisktoincorporateoncemore

Greasea12litrepuddingbasinwithbutterPutthestrawberryjaminthebottomofthebasinandtopwiththecakemixTakeapieceoffoillargeenoughtocoverthebasinandmakeapleatinthecentrethiswillallowthepuddingtoexpandduringcookingPutthefoiloverthebasinandtucktheedgesundertherimPutthebasininasteamercoverwithalidandsteamfor2hourscheckingthewaterlevelevery30minutesorsoandtoppingupwhennecessary(Thepuddingcanalsobesteamedinapressurecookeroveratrivetwith25cmwaterinthebottomatfullpressureforanhourtogetittothetablequicker)ThecustardcanbepreparedasthepuddingcomestotheendofitssteamingAddthesaffrontotheciderbrandytoinfusetheirheadyscentstogetherSplitthevanillapodopenandscrapeouttheseedsPuttheseedsandpodinaheavy-basedsaucepanwiththecreamandsetoveralowheatuntilalmostboilingRemovefromtheheatandletitcoolalittleWhisktheeggyolksandsugartogetherinabowluntiltheyolksturnpalethenpourinthecreamthroughasievewhiskingtocombinePourthemixtureintoacleanpanandsetoveralowheatCookstirringconstantlyuntilthemixturethickensItisimportantnottoleavethepanaloneatthisstageaswanderingconcentrationwillleadtoascrambledeggcustardIfyouhaveadigitalthermometerthecustardwillstarttothickenat70degCandbeatitsthickestat85degCndashanyhigherthanthatanditwillscrambleWithorwithoutathermometermuchoftheskillliesinbeingabletoseethischangeKeepacloseeyeonthecustardasyoustirandwatchforthemomentwhenthereisacleartrailleftbehindthespoononthebaseofthepanChalkupanotherkitchenskillwhenyouseethatvelvetsaucecompleted

Passthecustardthroughafinesieveandstirintheciderbrandyandsaffron

TurnthepuddingoutofthebasinandservewiththecustardSaffronandstrawberryisalip-smackingcombinationandcanbebetteredonlybytheadditionofafewpalerosepetalsscatteredoverthepuddingonceitisserved

VERMOUTH

EssentiallyvermouthismadewithabasewinethathasbeensweetenedwithamixtureofgrapejuiceandalcoholVariousbotanicalsextractsarethenaddedbeforematurationfilteringandbottlingThereareanincrediblenumberofvermouthsonthemarketatleast40varietiesTwoofthebest-knownaretheFrenchNoillyPratwhichuses20ndash30botanicalsandtheItalianMartiniRossiwhichcontains30Alsquotearsquoismadebymaceratingthebotanicalsinahighproofspiritinslowlyrevolvingbarrelsfor10ndash15daysthenasetratioofeachisaddedtothebasewineThisiseversoslightlymoreprofessionalthanshakingajamjarWewereinspiredbytheflavoursofAnticaFormulaandPunteMesand

bythesubtletyofBonmewhichcomesfromthePiedmontregionofItalyItisthecomplexitiesofvermouththatreallycapturedourattentionItworksasanaperitifacocktailingredientadigestifandasaningredientincookingThisisduetothemedicinalnatureofthebotanicalingredientssomestimulatehungerwhileotherssettlethestomachWewantedtocreateourownhousevermouththatmatchedourtastesanexpressionofourrestaurantandourlocationJackhadtoengageagooddealofgreymattertogethisheadaroundthemathswhenitcametothebotanicalsWhatfollowedwasnothingshortofalengthyprocessoftrialanderrorWehadbottlesandbottlesofvermouthallslightlydifferentasweincreasedanddecreasedtheproportionsofeachbotanicalteaTheEthicureanwaspepperedwithjarsofourexperimentsSomeweresoastringentthattheyresultedinextremefacialcontortionsamongstthefriendswhotriedthemWehadagoodchatwithJekkaMcVicarwhohelpeduschoosethevarietiesofherbsbestsuitedtoourrecipesandtobeinggrownintheWalledGardenTherecipebelowisforsweetvermouthbutthisisbynomeansadefinitiverecipeThepleasurecomesfromtryingoutyourowncombinationsPleasefeelfreetoleaveoutbotanicalsoraddnewonesofyourownWehaveincludedtheoptionofloweringthesugarcontentforadrierofferingSetasideasmallareaofyourkitchenandstackupthosejarsofmacerating

botanicalsTrythemallindividuallynotingtheirflavoursandyouwillgraduallybegintobeabletobuildyourownvermouthbasedonyourchosenprofileTheremayevenbethepossibilityofsubstitutingsomewildbitteringagentsforsomeoftheexoticbitterbotanicalsHereisashortlistof

possibilitiesCHAMOMILEusedinlotsofvermouthsaddsagoodfloralflavour

GORSEFLOWERSalternativebitterflavourMARITIMEPINENEEDLESresinousflavourFENNELSEEDSusedinsomevermouths

EQUIPMENT

bullScalesthatmeasureto01ofagramarecrucialforweighingoutthesmallamountsofeachbotanicalteaTheyareagreatpieceofequipmentandquiteinexpensivebullAhydrometerisusefulforworkingoutthealcoholcontentofyourfinishedvermouthbull20sterilejamjarsforthebotanicalsbullApipetteforaddingeachbotanicalteaalthoughateaspoonwillsufficebullAsmallteastrainerwillhelptokeepoutanypiecesofthebotanicalswhenaddingtheteatothebasewine

TheEthicureanVermouthBotanicals

ANGELICASEEDS(Angelicaarchangelica)Similarinaromatojuniper

BAY(Laurusnobilis)MedicinalqualitiesAnti-inflammatoryantibacterial

BLACKPEPPER(Pipernigrum)Hotwoodandfloralflavours

CARDAMOM(Amomumcardamom)AromaticandresinousdigestiveUsedtotreatinfections

CINAMMON(Cinnamomumverum)LaurelfamilySweetaromaticspice

CLOVE(Syzygiumaromaticum)CentralandSouthernEuropeprincipalingredientinAngosturabittersgoodfordigestionContainsglycosidesoneofthemostbitternaturalcompoundsknownandeugenolwhichhasantisepticandanaestheticqualities

CORIANDER(Coriandrumsativum)LemonandcitrusflavourWarmnuttyspicyorange

GENTIANROOT(Gentianalutea)VerybitterusedinAngostorabitters

JUNIPER(Juniperuscommunis)Pineyandresinous

MARJORAM(Origanummajorana)Balsamicandaromaticflavour

NUTMEG(Myristicafragrans)PreservinganddelicateagentORANGEPEELAromaticsweetonthenoseandforusakeyelementofourvermouth

ORRIS(Irisgermanica)EnhancesotheraromasandperfumesViolet-likesmelltasteslikeraspberry

QUASSIABARK(Quassiaamara)Quassinisthebitterestsubstanceinnature

ROSEMARY(Rosmarinusofficinalis)Aromaticwarmandslightlybitter

SAGE(Salviaofficinalis)containsthujoneaslightlyantiseptic-tastingcompoundSavouryflavour

STARANISE(Illiciumverum)AgreatflavourenhancerRichspice

VANILLA(Vanillaplanifolia)Addsaflavourofagedoakwhichisfoundinmaturevermouths

WORMWOOD(Artemisiaabsinthium)VerybittermedicinalpropertiesKeyingredientforanauthenticvermouth

YARROW(Achilleamillefolium)VerybitterOftencalledarrowrootintheUKitisregardedasahealingherb

Vermouth

QUANTITIESFOREACHBOTANICALTEA

Angelicaseeds15gBayleaves15gBlackpeppercorns10g

Blackpeppercorns10gCardamom1gCinammon83gClove05gCoriander15gGentianroot2gJuniper15gMarjoram5gNutmeg5gOrangepeel146gOrris6gQuassiabark4gRosemary5gSage15gStaranise5gVanilla5gWormwood4gYarrow2g

YourvermouthcanbestoredinasterilisedbottlewithagoodsealvacuumpumpingitisaverysensibleideaStoreinthefridgeanddrinkwithinacoupleofmonthswearesurethatitwillbegoneinaweek

ThebotanicalslistedherecanallbepurchasedonlineorfromChineseherbalistsWeuseacrispdryEnglishwhitewinefromSomersetasourbasewinealthoughinthepastwehaveusedaColombardandGrosMansengblendTryoutafewwhitewinesandseewhichoneyouprefer

WemakeourowncaramelandaddittothewineHoweverreducingtheamountofcaramelcanmakeverygooddryvermouthSweetvermouthtypicallycontains10ndash15percentsugarwhileadryonewillcontainnomorethan5percentItiscrucialtoraisethealcoholbyvolumeofthewine(thisisachievedbyaddingthebotanicalteas)asat13ndash15percentalcoholtheyeastwillstopconvertinggrapesugarsThisisimportantasyoudonotwantabottlethatwillcontinuetofermentAMuscatwinemakesanexcellentsweetvermouth

Thebasicproportionsforthisrecipeare500mlwine150mlintotalofthebotanicalteas200gcaramelThisyieldsjustunder700mlvermouth

TakeasmalljamjarandfillitaroundathirdfullwithyourbotanicalTopuptotwicetheheightthatthebotanicalreacheswithahighproofvodkaScrewonthelidandleavetomacerateatroomtemperaturefor2weeks

WhenmakingthecaramelforthevermouthfollowtheinstructionsforthesaltcaramelonhereomittingthesaltWerecommendtakingthecarameltoadarkambercolourforextradepthandcomplexityHeatingittosomewherebetween185and188degCwilldothetrickThiscanbepouredontoasiliconematandallowedtocoolintoasolidcaramelItcanbestoredinthesamewayasthesaltcarameluntilneeded

Whencombiningthecaramelwiththewineaddaquarterofthewine(oraslittleasneededtodissolvethecaramel)toapanandplaceonalowheatAddthecaramelshardsandstiruntilcompletelydissolvedAllowthemixturetocooltoroomtemperaturebeforecombiningwiththeremainingwineAddthebotanicalsintheproportionsgivenabovePleasetasteasyouaddthemasthiswillgiveyouasenseofwhateachingredientaddstoyourvermouth

HOWTOOAKYOURVERMOUTH

IfyouwouldliketotryoakingyourvermouthyouwillneedalargesterilisedjarwithawideneckPlaceahandfulofcleanoakchipsinthecentreofapieceofsterilisedmuslinandtiewitha

pieceofstringDropthebagofoakchipsintothejarandtopupwiththevermouthTryleavingforaweekandtasteregularlySomeofthebestvermouthsarematuredinoakthisisagreat

wayofsimulatingthatmaturationprocess

AtipforsterilisingtheoakchipswithoutremovingtoomuchoftheirflavourandtanninsistosteamthemPlaceinapanwithadropofwaterandalidturnuptoamediumheatandthechips

willsteam

RoseLemonade

WehavelovedFentimansrsquobotanicallybreweddrinksforyearsRecentlywehadadabbleatcookingwithsomeofthemandthewinnerwasroselemonadeWedecidedtoworkoutarecipeforourownversionInordertobrewitproperlywefirsthadtotrackdownagingerbeerplant(GBP)whichisessentiallyayeastcalledSaccharomycesflorentinusandabacteriumcalledBrevibacteriumvermiformeThesetwounlikelyfriendsformagelatinoussubstanceandasymbioticrelationshipwithinwhichtheyeastexcretes

alcoholandthebacteriumconsumesitYeasthasalowtoleranceofalcoholwhichofcourseremainslowduetothebacteriumGBPisbetterformakingdrinksthanordinaryyeastbecauseyouendupwithmuchbetterflavourslowalcoholandlittlechanceofdangerousexplosionsWeeventuallyfoundasupplieronlineandreceivedalittleenvelope

containingapacketofwhitejelly-likesubstanceyeastysweetandalcoholicWaitinglistspaymentsrefundsandrepaymentsfollowedAlittleresearchtoldusthataverycleverchapbythenameofHarryMarshallWarddiscoveredGBPrsquostalentforbrewingin1892WeusedJapaneserosepetalsRosarugosaastheyreallydoofferthefinest

flavourIfyoucanrsquotgettheseyoucouldtrydriedrosepetalsPleaseavoidrosesthathavebeensprayedwithchemicalsThegeneralruleisthatthepalervarietieshaveabetterflavour

MAKES2LITRES250gcastersugarjuiceandzestof1lemon25cmpieceoffreshgingerroughlychoppedahandfulofrosepetals1tbspGBP

ItisreallyimportanttosterilisealltheequipmentyouuseincludingthemuslinandstringYoucandothisbypouringboilingwaterovereverythingandthenleavingittodryPutthesugarandlemonzestinapanwith250mlwaterBringtoalightsimmerstirringtodissolvethesugarthenremovefromtheheatandleavetocool

Pour175litreswaterintoalargecontainer(alargeliddedplasticboxisfine)andaddthelemonjuicethiswillneutralisethechlorinegenerallypresentintapwaterwhichwouldotherwiseaffecttheyeastrsquosproductivityStraininthesugarandwatermixturePutthegingerinapieceofmuslintiewithstringanddropitinAddtheGBPthencoverandleaveatroomtemperaturefor5daysBesuretoopenthelidbrieflyeverydayinordertoletoutanycarbondioxidethathasbuiltupotherwiseitwillopenofitsownaccord

Strainthemixturethroughafinesieveintoasterilised2litreplasticbottle

Strainthemixturethroughafinesieveintoasterilised2litreplasticbottleandputonthetopSavetheGBPandgiveitarinseitwillhavegrown(Ifyoustoreitinthefridgeinasmallsterilecontaineritwillkeepforupto2weeks)After2daystheroselemonadewillbereadytodrinkalthoughifyoudesireafizzierbrewleaveitforlongerRefrigerationwillhaltanyfurtherfermentation

TheEthicureanCocktail

ThiscocktailhasquicklybecomeaclassicatTheEthicureanadelightfulbalanceofsweetsharpandsavouryAsthedayslengthenitmakesaperfectpre-dinnerdrinkinthegardenThymehasantisepticqualitiesasdohoneyandlemonmakingthisanexcellentpick-me-upwithorwithoutthevodkaInvestinginaninexpensiveBostoncocktailshakerisaverygoodideaIt

allowsyoutobuildandshakedrinkscontainingjuiceaeratingthemchillingthemquicklyandformingapleasingfrothMostbartenderswouldadvisethatshakingshouldbeusedonlywhendrinkscontainsomejuiceYouwillsignificantlylowerthetemperaturebyshakingbutexpectasmalllevelofdilutionfromtheiceIfalltheingredientsareclearstirringisthebetteroptionpreservingtheclarityofthedrink

SERVES1icecubesfrac14lemon2sprigsofthymeplus1toserve1tsphoney25mlChaseEnglishPotatovodka100mlapplejuice

Fillyourglasstotherimwithice

SqueezethewedgeoflemonintotheglasspartofaBostonshakerthendropinthesqueezedlemonwedgetogetherwiththethymeMashtogetherwithawoodenpestleAddthehoneypouringinjustalittlewarmwatertodissolveMeasureoutthevodkatherersquosnoharminadoubleifthewindtakesyouandpouritontotheotheringredientsAddtheapplejuiceandtopuptojustbelowtherimwithiceTapthetinontopoftheglassandshaketillwatercondensesontheoutsideoftheshakerSeparatebyusingtheheelofyourhandtoknockwheretheglassandtinaretouchingPourthoselastfewpreciousdropsintothetinthenplaceaHawthornestraineroverthetinandpourthemixtureintoyourchilledglassTopupwithiceandasmallsprigofthymethenaddmorejuicetotaste

HONEYANDTHYMESYRUP

WeliketomakeahalfandhalfsyruptouseinthecocktailaboveIfyouaremakingafewcocktailsitrsquosagoodwayofsavingtime

1tsphoneypercocktail1sprigofthymeforeverydrinkyouwouldlike

Placethehoneyandthymeinapanandadd1teaspoonofwaterforeveryteaspoonofhoneyBringgentlytoasimmerthenremovefromtheheatandleavetocoolStrainintoasterilisedcontainerandstoreinthefridgeitwillkeepfor2weeks

Negroni

TheNegroniisanenduringclassicThepreserveofbartendersandrestaurateursithasasatisfyingbitternessthatiswelcomeafteralongshiftWefindourselvessettledinbythesecondThiscocktailismorethanthesumofitspartsanditssuccessrestsonitsbalancedsimplicityWeuseourownVermouth(seehere)butAnticaFormulaandPunteMesmakesuperbonesWehavealsoservedthisdrinkwithasageleafasagarnishasitfindsa

harmoniousplaceamongstthearomaticsintheginandvermouth

SERVES11orange25mlgin25mlvermouth(seehere)25mlCampari

ChillatumblerwithicetoppedupwithwaterTakeafinesliceofzestfromtheorangeavoidingthebitterpithFillalargeglassonethirdfullwithiceandpourovertheginvermouthandCampariStiruntiltheoutsideoftheglasscondensesthenstrainintothechilledtumblerandsqueezealittleofthepreciousflavourfromtheorangezestBrushtherimofthetumblerwiththeorangezestthenpinchandsqueezeitovertheglasstoreleasetheessentialoilsTopupwithicetobelowtherim(aboveismostuncouth)thenslotinasliceoforange

Foratwisttrystirringacoupleoflovageleavesintothecontentsofthemixingglass

VERMOUTH

Althoughtheearliestreferencestoanaromatisedwinecropuparound1250BCinChinaandIndiaittookawhiletocatchoninEnglandPurlwasaseventeenth-centurybitteraleinfused

withwormwoodandafewotherbotanicalsmainlyusedtosettlethestomachBy1690lsquoStoughtonrsquosGreatCordialElixirrsquoaninfusionof22botanicalshadbecomeapopularcurefor

hangoversandgastricailmentslsquoDrankbymostgentlemenhelliptorecoverandrestoreaweakenrsquodstomachorlostappetitehellipoccasionedbyharddrinkingorsicknessrsquo(Imbibehere)

VermouthasweknowittodaybeganlifeintheregionaroundTurinItalyintheeighteenthcenturyRelativelysweetwithafull-bodiedherbaceousflavourthisdark-reddrinkwasfollowed

bydrierstraw-colouredstylesfromFranceinparticularChambeacuteryintheSavoieregion

RecipeList

FigsWrappedinPorkBellywithLavenderandBuffaloMozzarellaCaramelisedChicoryLabnehandMaceratedStrawberrySalad

RoastedTomatoandLiquoriceBasilSoupRoastedCourgetteandCobnutSoupwithLabnehandGinger

TurmericandMintDressingSousedMackerelCarrotFennelandSaffronwithGooseberryand

MintGranitaChilledBeetrootSoupPar-celWalnutIceCreamandRoasted

CobnutOilEwersquos-curd-stuffedCourgetteFlowerswithFennelSherbet

GlobeArtichokeswithHollandaiseSauceandSumacPeaGoatBaconandLovageBroth

ScallopsinPuffPastrywithVermouthandFennelCreamPickledPollackwithFlame-roastedPeppersCucumberPulBiber

ChilliandWaterMintDorsetBlueVinnyandFlame-roastedPepperswithCharredLittle

GemJohnDorywithMorelMushroomsFlatBeansHaricotBeansand

HamHockStockMusselsinCiderwithTarragon

SteamedMegrimSolewithRockSamphireandSumac-braisedFennel

PickledrocksamphireWaterBuffaloFilletwithClearChickenStockTarragonandSalt-

bakedBabyBeets

BarbecuedHorseMackerelwithCobnutSalbitxadaSauceFennelandSumacGravadTrout

WhiteRaspberryLoganberryandEwersquosYoghurtTerrinewithSweetCicelyConfit

ElderflowerSorbetwithFennelSherbetandWildStrawberriesPineappleWeedJelly

ElderflowerandLavenderMarshmallowsSpicedGingerBeer

SummerElderRawRhubarbSmash

DoubleSloeGinandTonic

SUMMERARRIVESWHENTHEcentralwalkwaythroughtheyewhedgeshasprogressedfromacarpettoagraduatingwallofcolourThisisMaddytheflowergardenerrsquosfavouritetimeastheperennialstaketheirplaceonthestageTherearenepetaachilleasalviaandgeraniums

OnMidsummerrsquosEvebonfirescanbeseenontheMendipsatduskastheoldpaganceremonyofstrengtheningthesuntakesplaceInthetrackthroughtheorchardthelavenderisbeginningtoflowersomeofitdestinedformarshmallowsservedtoastedtoorderintheglasshouseMarkcarriesupboxesofstrawberriesstillcoveredinstrawtheoddwoodlouseScramblingtosafetyThewildstrawberriesbarelyamouthfularepickedaswegathermintandthenewbright-greenlovageleaves

MatthewandPaucircladisappearforadaytotheirsamphirespotinSouthWalesTheyreturnwitharmfulsofthissaltyvegetablenotawhisperofthenameofthebeachTheropehanginginthedippingpondisaladderforthefirstdragonfliesoftheyeartakingwingThepondonceusedforwateringcansisteemingwithlife

MarkhassownsaladleavesthatresistboltingintheheatAnhourafterhepicksthemtheysitlayeredonplateswithpickledpollockandredpeppersWeroastthedeep-redpeppersandpurpleauberginesoveranopenflameuntiltheychangefromrichredandpurpletoashblackThesmellisperfectTheycoolbeforetheskinispeeled

Theelderhedgeprovidesuswiththefirststar-headedelderflowerswiththeirtranquilscentNextcometheberriesandsomewillbepickedunripetobepickledwithpepperandSaltndashwethinkofthemasSomersetcapers

IndescendingordertiedtofencepostsareraspberriesblackberriesloganberriesandwhiteraspberriesThesefruitsmaketheirwayintomyriadrecipessetcreamssorbetsjamsandvinegarsThewhiteraspberriesaremuddledincocktailsprovidinganaciditythatmakeslemonredundantAswefillcontainerswearecarefulnottopickahoneybeeIvorthebeekeeperarrivesandopensthehiveThequeenrsquoswingsareclippedsheismarkedandthenreturnedTheespaliersaredroopingundertheweightoffruitThereareapricotsgreengagesandVictoriaplumsOnthestovesitsanever-bubblingpanoffruitndashgreengageandvanillaperhapsorblackberrywith

bubblingpanoffruitndashgreengageandvanillaperhapsorblackberrywithbourbonwhiskey

TheartichokesplumpandgreenwithsharpscalesaresnippedoffaboveanysecondarybudsThekitchenmakesahollandaiseandtheglobesarecookedandplacedinabowlservedwiththisbutterysauceWithin20minutestherimissurroundedbystrippedpetalsandfingersreachfortheheart

MaddyrsquosflowersarejoinedbythebloomsofcampanulaechinaceaandpotentillaTheborderoutsidetheglasshouseisamovingriotofbutterfliesandhoneybeeswhiletheoddoneisskilfullyfreedfromthediningroom

BythistimethefoxgloveshavebeguntotumbleovertopheavywithblueflowersMeanwhilethefirstapplesarestartingtocropWorcesterPearmainBeautyofBathandCheddarGoldarecollectedintrugsandbasketsThedaysareshorteningandthecropsarepreservedpickledandstored

FigsWrappedinPorkBellywithLavenderandBuffaloMozzarella

CompromiseisdifficultwhenyouareabigfanoffigsTheyarewonderfulwhentheyareripebutnotreallyworthtastingatanyotherstageUnripefigshavegottobeoneofthemostdisappointingfoodsthereisTheproblemisthattheyaresodifficulttotransportthateitheryouhavetogrowthemyourselforbeclosetoagoodsourceContrarytopopularbelieffigtreesdogrowwellintheUKGrantedtheyarenomatchinsizeforsomeEuropeanvarietiesbuttheirfreshnessmakesupforwhatmightinitiallybeperceivedasadeficiencyThefigtreeattheWalledGardenneverceasestosurpriseusasitseemsto

beoblivioustothevolatilityoftheBritishweatherItlivesinablissfulstateofconstantexpansionextendingitsleafybrancheswithoutshameclaimingthefrontbrickarchwayasitsrightfulareaensuringthatallvisitorspassing

thefrontbrickarchwayasitsrightfulareaensuringthatallvisitorspassingthroughthetopgatearewelcomedbyitsgenerouspresenceAssummerprogressesopeningtheheavywoodengatewithoutdamagingthetreersquosbranchesbecomesmoreandmorechallengingItisalmostasifitistryingtoremindusofitshealthygrowtheverymorningThereisnoneedforsuchattention-seekingbehaviourItisoneofthemostwatchedtreesinourgardenThefigsaresoprecioustousthatwecannotriskanyofthembeingwastedFigshaveanaturalaffinitywithsaltyingredientsandarecommonly

servedwithprosciuttoHoweverwefindthatinthisdishthecrunchofthefigseedsisgreatlyenhancedbythecrispinessofthecuredporkbellyHoneyandfigsisanothercombinationthatworksremarkablywellWe

trieditwithlavenderhoneyandfoundthatitwasevenbetterItmadesensethentousestalksoflavendertoattachtheporkbellytothefigThecreaminessofthebuffalomozzarellaservestobalancethesweetnessof

thehoneyandfigswiththesaltinessoftheporkbellyTohaveaccesstoBritish-madebuffalomilkmozzarellafromLaverstokeParkFarmisassatisfyingashavingaBritish-madechorizosausage(seehere)Eachhassomanyapplicationsinthekitchenthatanychefseekingtousesolelylocalingredientshasmuchcausetocelebrate

SERVES48ripefigs1buffalomilkmozzarellaslicedinto8pieces16slicesofcuredporkbellysuchaspancetta16lavenderspearsfromlavenderinflower4tsplavenderhoney

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6WashanddrythefigstakingcarenottodamagetheskinCutacross2ndash3cmdeepthroughthestemofeachandopenthefiguplikeaflowerStuffasliceofmozzarellaintoeachfigthenwrap2slicesofcuredporkbellyroundtheoutsideSpikeeachfigwith2lavenderflowerspearstoholdtheporkinplaceduringbaking

Putthefigsinabakingdishdrizzlefrac12teaspoonoflavenderhoneyovereachoneandcookfor10ndash12minutesuntiltheporkbellyiscrispandthefigslightlycaramelisedCoolslightlybeforeserving

lightlycaramelisedCoolslightlybeforeserving

CaramelisedChicoryLabnehandMaceratedStrawberrySalad

ThearrivalofsummerattheWalledGardenoftentakesusbysurpriseThefirstsignisthequietmurmurofinsectsfromvariouscornersofthegardenthentheburstofcolourintheherbaceousbordersalongsidethecentralbrickpathAstheinsectsnoisilygatheraroundtheseflowerswerealisethatsummerhastiptoedinTherefollowschild-likeexcitementfromkitchenfolkandfront-of-housestaffalikeThearrivalofsummermeansmoreingredientstoexperimentwithandmoreexcusesforforaysaroundthegardenThissaladshowcasesallthatisgreatabouttheseasonStrawberriesare

particularlyimportanttotheSomersetareaNotfarfromusyouwillfindthefamousStrawberryLineanoldrailwaylinenowacyclepathwhichrunsthroughneighbouringvillagesBuiltintheVictorianeraittookitsnamefromthefamousCheddarstrawberriesthatusedtobecarriedalongthelinetoLondonInthisrecipeweusechicoryasacontrasttothetangysweetnessofthemaceratedstrawberries

SERVES4500gewersquosmilkyoghurtfrac12tspsalt120gmedium-sizedstrawberrieshulledandslicedverticallyinto3about200mlcidervinegar300gcastersugar6largeheadsofchicorycutintoquartersthroughtherooticingsugarfordustingalittlegroundcinnamonalittlecobnutoil(orhazelnutoil)afewborageflowers(optional)blackpepper

PreparethelabnehandstrawberriesadayinadvanceLineasievewithapieceofmuslinoraclothallowingtheendstooverhangthesievePuttheyoghurtinandmixinthesaltCovertheyoghurtwiththeendsofthe

yoghurtinandmixinthesaltCovertheyoghurtwiththeendsofthemuslinandthenplacethesieveoverabowlLeaveinthefridgeovernightThefollowingdayliquidwillhavecollectedinthebowlandtheyoghurtwillbethickerandcreamierDiscardtheliquidandspoontheyoghurtintoanairtightcontainerKeepinthefridgeuntilneeded

PuttheslicedstrawberriesinaplasticboxandpourinenoughcidervinegarjusttocoverthemCoverandleaveinthefridgeovernightThenextdaystrainoffthevinegarintoabowlAddthecastersugartoitandstirthoroughlyuntildissolvedPourthevinegaroverthestrawberriesandrefrigerateuntilneeded

Placeagriddlepanoveramedium-highheatuntilhotLightlydustthechicorywithicingsugarandthenplaceflat-sidedownonthegriddleCookwithoutmovingituntilitbeginstocarameliseunderneathandcharredlinesdevelopTurnthepiecesontotheirotherflatsideandrepeatthenflipthemontotheirroundedsideandcookuntiltenderRemovethechicoryfromthegriddlepanandsetasidetocoolalittle

Dividethechicorybetween4platesspreadingoutsomeoftheleavesDotthestrawberriesthroughoutthenaddseveralteaspoonsofthelabnehSprinklecinnamonoverthelabnehDresswithcobnutoilsomeofthemaceratingliquidfromthestrawberriesandborageflowersifyouhaveanyCoarselygrindsomeblackpepperoverthestrawberriesandserveimmediately

RoastedTomatoandLiquoriceBasilSoup

RoastingorcaramelisingvegetablescantransformanaveragesoupintosomethingtrulyspectacularPairitwithalittletexturalcontrastandburstsofflavouraswedoherewithbasilcroutonsandgoldentomatoandapplebalsamicjelliesandyouaregoingfarbeyondwhatmostpeoplehavecometoexpectwhentheyhearthewordsoupTheflavoursyoucanachievebyroastingtomatoesaregloriousIndeedit

ishardtothinkofaculinaryworldwithouttomatoesAsPaucirclaourresidentMexicanwillproudlytellyoutheyarenativetoMexicoTheSpaniardsbroughtthembacktosouthernEuropeforcultivationonamajorscaleDryingoutsomeofthemoisturefromthetomatoesintensifiestheirflavourandthebrowningfromtheroastingprocessaddsanewcomplexitytooneofourfavouriteingredientsTomatoesareagreatsourceofumami(seehere)WhentheyarecombinedwithmushroomstockinthisrecipeweachievesavouryheavenAddtothatawarminfusionofherbsandpiecesofthetomatovinewhichcontainsincrediblyfresharomatictomatoflavoursandweguaranteethatthisisasouptorivalanyyouhavehadbeforeWeuseastrainofliquoricebasilinthisrecipeastheanisenotesmakea

superbaccompanimenttotomatoMarkthegardenerspoilsuswithuniqueheritageorheirloomstrainsofplantsandherbseachwitharicherflavourthanthecommonhybridisedstrainsHegrowscinnamonbasilalongsidetomatoestoattractpestsawayfromtheredfruitplantsSeekoutaheritageorheirloomseedcompanyifyouareinterestedingrowingherbsastheywilldelightfromaculinaryaspectbutwillalsoprovideseedforthefollowingyearsGenovesebasilmammothbasilandMrsBurnslemonbasilareheirloomvarietieswellworthsearchingfor

SERVES4

SERVES41kgvine-ripenedtomatoesvinesreserved2garlicclovespeeled2bayleaves10sprigsofthyme20gbasilleaves(seehere)

rapeseedoilfrac14tspsmokedpaprika100mlmushroomstock(seehere)100mlwhitechickenstock(seehere)2dashesofWorcestershiresaucecidervinegar1tbsptomatopureacuteeseasalt

FORTHEGOLDENTOMATOJELLY(OPTIONALBUTRECOMMENDED)500ggoldentomatoesfrac14tspagaragarpowder

FORTHEAPPLEBALSAMICJELLY(OPTIONALBUTRECOMMENDED)200mlapplebalsamicvinegar(suchasAspallrsquos)frac12tspagaragarpowder

FORTHEBASILCROUTONS(OPTIONALBUTRECOMMENDED)

1thicksliceofsourdoughbreadcutinto1ndash2cmcubesrapeseedoiltocoat1ndash2tspicingsugar10gbasilleavesflakyseasalt

StartbypeelingthetomatoesTheeasiestwaytodothisistocutawidecrossatthebaseofeachtomatoscoringonlythroughtheskinHaveabowloficedwateratthereadyPutthescoredtomatoesinabowlpourboilingwateroverthemandleavefornomorethan30secondstheskinsshouldsplitwhereyoumadetheincisionRemovefromthewaterandplungestraightintotheicedwaterLeaveuntilcoldthenpeelofftheskins

Heattheovento180degCGasMark4Slicethetomatoesintoquartersandputtheminaroastingtraycut-sideupAddthegarlicclovesbayleaveshalfthethymesprigsandhalfthebasilleavesDrizzlewithenoughrapeseedoiltocoattheingredientslightlyandaddageneroussprinklingofseasaltPlaceintheovenandroastfor20ndash30minutesuntiltheedgesofthe

Placeintheovenandroastfor20ndash30minutesuntiltheedgesofthetomatoesbegintoblackenTakeoutoftheovenandleavetocoolRemovethebayleavesthymeandbasilanddiscard

Transferthetomatoesgarlicandtomatopureacuteetoablenderwiththesmokedpaprikaandblitzonfullspeedfor1minuteAddthemushroomstockandchickenstockandblitzforabout2minutesPassthroughafinesieveintoasaucepanaddtheWorcestershiresauceandbringtoasimmerImmediatelyremovefromtheheatandaddthereservedtomatovinesplustheremainingbasilandthymeLeavetoinfuseinawarmplacefor15minutesStrainthroughafinesieveoncemoreseasonwithsalttotasteandadashofcidervinegarforalittlewelcomeacidityIfyouleftthesouptoinfusesomewherewarmenoughitshouldstillbeagoodtemperaturetoeatIfyoupreferitalittlewarmerthenreheatquicklyandserveimmediatelyndashwithalloranyoftheoptionalgarnishesifyoulike

Ifmakingthejelliesitisusefultoknowthatagaragarwillremainstableuptoroughly80degCWeusuallyserveoursoupsaround75degC

Forthegoldentomatojellyblitzthetomatoestoapureacuteeinafoodprocessorfor2minutesPlaceinafinesievesetoverabowlandleavetodrainuntilyouhave200mlliquidPressgentlywiththebackofaladleifthetomatoesneedalittlecoaxingTasteandseasonwithsalttotastePuttheliquidinasaucepanandslowlyaddtheagaragarstirringconstantlyBringtotheboiloverahighheattohydratetheagaragarImmediatelyremovefromtheheatandpourintoasquareorrectangularTupperwarecontainerthatallowstheliquidtobe1cmdeepLeavetocooltheliquidwillsetTurnoutontoaboardandcutinto1cmcubesStorecoveredinthefridgeuntilneeded

FortheapplebalsamicjellyputthevinegarinasaucepanandslowlyaddtheagaragarstirringconstantlyBringtotheboiloverahighheatthenimmediatelyremovefromtheheatandpourintoasquareorrectangularTupperwarecontainerthatallowstheliquidtobe1cmdeepAllowtocoolandsetthencutinto1cmcubesasforthetomatojellyStoreinthefridgeDropthejellycubesintothehotsoupimmediatelybeforeserving

IfyouwanttoservethesoupwiththecroutonstossthecubesofbreadinalittlerapeseedoilandflakyseasaltuntillightlycoatedthensiftafineevenlayeroficingsugaroverthemPutthebreadinaroastingtraywiththebasil

layeroficingsugaroverthemPutthebreadinaroastingtraywiththebasilandplaceinanovenpreheatedto180degCGasMark4Cookfor5ndash10minutesuntilgoldenbrowntossinghalfwaythroughtoensureevenbrowningScatterthecroutonsoverthesouptoserve

WARMINFUSIONS

TheflavourofmostgreenherbsdullsafterevenashortperiodofcookingInfusingliquidsstocksandevensoupswithherbsatthelastminuteensuresthatthegreennotesofeachherbremainasfreshandpungentaswhentheywerepickedThemostcommonwaytoprepareawarminfusionistobringabout500mlliquidtotheboilremovefromtheheatimmediatelyandaddahandfulofherbsLeavetoinfusefor15ndash20minutesthenstrainthroughaveryfinesievetasteanduseimmediatelyWerecommendexperimentingwiththismethodOccasionallyyouwillneedmoreherbsthanyoumightexpecttogetthedesiredresult

moreherbsthanyoumightexpecttogetthedesiredresult

RoastedCourgetteandCobnutSoupwithLabnehandGingerTurmericandMintDressing

CourgettesarearelativelyrecentadditiontoBritishcookingbecomingwidelyknownonlyinthemidtwentiethcenturyasaresultofElizabethDavidrsquoswritingAdmittedlytheyarenotthemostfascinatingofvegetablesbutlabellingthemastastelessorwateryisunfairinourviewWhilsttheydohaveahighwatercontent(theyareafterallrelatedtowatermelonsandcucumbers)wewouldurgeanyonewhothinkstheyaretastelesstotrygrowingtheirownWhentheyaresmallandfreshtheyhaveasubtlenuttinessunlikeanyothermemberoftheCucurbitafamilytowhichtheybelongTheadditionoftoastedcobnutsinthisdishemphasisesthenuttinessinherentinourfreshproducemagnificentlyThereisanimpressiverowofcobnuttreesinthelowercornerofthe

WalledGardenResemblingagroupofwiselycontentelderstheseprosperousleafytreesareknownforbeingeasytokeepThisisprobablywhytheyarelovedbyallatBarleyWoodparticularlysquirrelsandchefs

SERVES81kgsmallfirmcourgettesslicedinto2cmpiecesrapeseedoil500gonionsfinelysliced250gcarrotsfinelysliced250gceleryfinelysliced1tbspsaltplusmoreforthefinalseasoning40gfreshcobnutsfinelychoppedthenlightlytoastedinadryfryingpan

FORTHELABNEH

500gyoghurtfrac12tspsalt1tbspfinelychoppedmarjoram1tbspfinelychoppedoregano

FORTHEGINGERTURMERICANDMINTDRESSING

85mlrapeseedoil

85mlrapeseedoil50mlcidervinegar1tspEnglishmustardfrac12tspgroundgingerfrac14tspgroundturmeric1tspchoppedmint

ThelabnehmustbemadeadayinadvanceLineasievewithapieceofmuslinandputtheyoghurtinitStirinthesaltcoverwiththeoverhangingendsofthemuslinandthensetoverabowlndashitshouldbedeepenoughtoallowtheliquidtodrainofftheyoghurtLeaveinthefridgeovernightThefollowingdaydiscardtheliquidunwrapthelabnehandputitinabowlStirintheherbsKeepinthefridgeuntilneeded

Tomakethedressingblendalltheingredientstogetheruntilwellcombinedthenseasonwithsalttotaste

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6TossthecourgetteswithalittlerapeseedoiluntillightlycoatedthenspreadthemoutinaroastingtrayPlaceintheovenandroastfor20minutesMeanwhileheatathinfilmofrapeseedoilinalargesaucepanaddtheonionscarrotsandceleryandsweatfor10ndash15minutesuntiltenderStirregularlyanddonotallowthevegetablestocolourAddtheroastedcourgettesandsweatfor5minuteslongerAddenoughwaterbarelytocoverthevegetablesandbringtoagentlesimmerAddthesaltandcookfor5minutesthendecantintoablenderinbatchesifnecessaryBlitzuntilsmooththenaddenoughwatertotakeittoyourdesiredconsistencywelikeitonthethinsideBlitzoncemorethenpassthroughafinesieveforavelvetymouthfeelSeasonwithsalttotaste(TheSoupcanbekeptinthefridgeforupto5daysatthispoint)ReheatgentlythenpourthesoupintoservingbowlsandfinisheachonewithatablespoonoflabnehasprinklingofchoppedcobnutsandadrizzleofthedressingServewithseededbreadandsaltedbutter

daggerCobnutsareoneofthemostwonderfulhistoricallyrichnativenutswehaveyetsurprisinglytheyaregreatlyunderusedinBritishcookingAvarietyofhazelnutthecobnuthasbeenpresentinourgardensandorchardssinceatleastthesixteenthcenturyHistoricallycobnutshavebeeninstrumentalinhedgerow-growingformingadenseboundaryto

keepdomesticlivestockcontainedTheykeepfreshformonthsandwerethusavaluablesourceofproteinforthoseatseaThemostcommonvarietytheKentishcobwasintroducedaround1830ItwasgrownsosuccessfullyinKentthatcultivationincreaseddramaticallyintheHomeCountiesfromwherecobnutscouldbequicklytransportedtoLondonDuringtheFirstWorldWarlabourintheUKbecamemoreexpensiveandthenativeplantscouldnotcompetewithimportedfruitandnutsThisledtothedemiseofplantsinKentculminatinginnear-extinctionbytheearly1990s

SousedMackerelCarrotFennelandSaffronwithGooseberryandMintGranita

MackerelareoneofthemoststunningfishinBritishwatersTheirstripygreenish-bluebackaffordsthemexcellentcamouflagefromabovewhiletheirsilverbellygivesanimpressivealmostethereallookastheyswimatgreatspeedinpurposefulshoalsThebesttimetoeatmackerelisinthesummerItisthenthattheygather

closetoshoreinsearchoffryallowingthemtobeeasilyline-caughtamoresustainablefishingmethodthannetsortrawlingItisalsowhentheystarttoputontheweightthatwillallowthemtoliveindeepwatersduringwinterTheadditionalweightisrichinomega-3fattyacidsandconsequentlytheyareOneofthehealthiestfishyouwillhavethepleasureofeatingWhenpurchasinglookoutforfirmshinyfleshandbrighteyesassignsoffreshnessSousingorpicklingmackerelisagreatwayofpreservingit

freshnessSousingorpicklingmackerelisagreatwayofpreservingitMackerelrsquospairingwithgooseberryisaclassiccombinationthathas

survivedthetestoftimeThenaturalpartnershipbetweenthesetwoingredientshasnotgoneunnoticedbytheFrenchwhonamedthegooseberrygroseilleagravemaquereauormackerelberrySadlygooseberriesarenotgrownintheWalledGardensowegetthemfromourfriendsattheCommunityFarmacoupleofmilesdowntheroadForaberrythatisregardedbysomeasaquintessentialBritishfruit

gooseberriesareprettyelusiveevenwheninseasoninJuneandJulyThefactthattheyhaveoftenbeencriticisedforbeingtootartmighthaveledtotheirdemise

SERVES4ndash61times350ndash500gmackerelfilleted8ndash12saffronstrands

FORTHECURE

100gfineseasalt100gcastersugar1tbspcorianderseeds

FORTHESOUSINGLIQUOR

250mlvintagecidervinegarsuchasOstlerrsquos100gcastersugar1staranisefrac14tspcorianderseedsfrac14tspblackpepper3saffronstrands1shallotveryfinelydiced2carrotsslicedintowafer-thinlongstripspreferablyonamandolinefrac12fennelbulbslicedwaferthinpreferablyonamandoline

FORTHEGOOSEBERRYANDMINTGRANITA

500ggooseberriestoppedandtailed100gcastersugar

10gmintleaves

ThisdishneedstobestartedatleastadayinadvanceRemovethebonesfromtheribcageofthemackerelfilletsusingapairofpliersortweezersNextlocatethebonesthatrundownthecentreofeachfilletWithanextremelysharpknifesliceatanangledownonesideofthebonesthendowntheothersideYouwillnowbeabletoremoveanddiscardthethinstripcontainingthebones

BlitzthecureingredientsinafoodprocessoruntilthecorianderseedsareasfineasthesaltandsugarSpreadthecuremixoutonaplatelargeenoughtoholdthemackerelfilletsPlacethemackerelonthecureskin-sideupcoverwithclingfilmandleaveinthefridgefor2hoursRemovefromthecurewashunderagentlyrunningtapandpatdrywithkitchenpaperPlaceinthefridge

ForthesousingliquorputalltheingredientsexceptthecarrotsandfennelintoasaucepanandbringtotheboilRemovefromtheheatandpouroverthecarrotskeepingthefennelseparateAllowtocooltoroomtemperaturethenchillCoverthemackerelintheliquorandleaveinthefridgeovernight

Tomakethegranitabring500mlwatertotheboilinasaucepanPutthegooseberriesinasteamerbasketandplaceoverthewaterCoverandsteamfor45minutesThesteambreaksdownthegooseberriesandtheirjuicedripsintothewaterThegooseberriesareleftwithlittleflavourafterwardssoarebestdiscarded

Removethepanfromtheheataddthesugartothegooseberry-flavouredwaterandstirtodissolveGentlyrollthemintleavesbetweenyourthumbandfingerthenputthemintheliquidandleavetoinfusefor20minutesRollingtheleavesbruisesthemslightlywithoutdamagingthemsothattheygiveoffmorearomaandflavourtheliquidmoreeffectivelyStraintheliquidthroughmuslinorafinesieveandleavetocoolthenchillPourintoaplasticboxandputinthefreezerLeavefor1houroruntilitrsquosstartingtosetaroundtheedgesthenremovefromthefreezerandrakestraightlinesfromtoptobottomwithaforkPlacebackinthefreezerfor30minutesandthenrakewithaforkagainRepeatuntilthegranitaiscompletelyfrozenintoicecrystalsItwillkeepinthefreezerforamonth

crystalsItwillkeepinthefreezerforamonth

WhenthemackerelhashaditsnightinthefridgeremoveitfromthesouseandpatdryCutthefilletsinto1ndash2cmstrips(thethintailsectionsmakeatastysnackwhileyouplateuptherestofthedish)ThesousingliquorwillbealittlecloudyafterthemackerelhasspentsometimeinitIfyouareusingthisrecipeforadinnerpartyandwanttogivetheextrawowfactorthendiscardtheliquidandmakeafreshbatchThiswillgivegreatclaritytothefinisheddish

ToservebunchsomefennelinthecentreofeachservingbowlandplacethemackerelarounditRollthecarrotsintoribbonsandarrangethemaroundthemackerelPourinenoughofthesousingliquidjusttocoverthebottomofeachbowlPlaceatablespoonofthegranitaontopofthefennelandfinishwithacoupleofstrandsofsaffronineachbowl

daggerMackerelhasbeenafavouritefishinBritainforcenturiesItformedthebasisoftheRomanliquamenalsoknownasgarumafermentedfishsauceusedincookingandwhichtheybroughtwiththemtotheBritishIslesRecordsshowthatasearlyas1353DanielRoughtheclerkofRomney

KentandaprominentfishmongersoldmackereltothelocalsBythe1660sitseemsthatmackerelhadbecomepopularfurtherinlandasitstartscroppingupinbreakfastdishesoftheperiodSuchwideravailabilitymighthavebeentheresultofanActofParliamentpassedin1669whichfinallydeclaredthatLondonrsquosfishmarketatBillingsgatecouldopensixdaysperweek

daggerContrarytocommonbeliefthegooseberryisnotanativeberryOriginallycultivatedincoolerareasofEuropeitgrowssowellinBritishsoilthatitquicklybecamenaturalisedRecordsfromtheroyalgardenatWestminstershowthatbusheswereplantedinthethirteenthcenturyBythenineteenthcenturygooseberrieswerecultivatedonalargecommercialscaleCompetitivegooseberry-growingclubswereestablishedallovertheUKandthequesttofindthebestandbiggestfruitwastakenextremelyseriouslyUnfortunatelyintheearly1900stheentiregooseberrycropwaswipedoutduetoamildewdiseasebroughtinfromtheUnitedStatesLuckilyforourBritishpalatestheplantwasreintroducedalthoughitneverregainedthepopularityithadenjoyedintheVictorianera

ChilledBeetrootSoupPar-celWalnutIceCreamandRoastedCobnutOil

DuringourfirstsummerattheWalledGardenwenoticedwithsomedegreeofsurprisethatwhenevertherewasevenaslightindicationofsunnyweathercustomerswouldignorethefreshlymadehotsouponthemenupreparedwithvegetablespickedfromthegardenthatsamemorningThischilledbeetrootsoupprovedtobeanacceptablealternativeTherecentsuccessofbeetrootinBritishcookingmustbedueatleastin

parttoitswonderfulcombinationofsweetnessandearthinessItsearthyaromacomesfromgeosminanorganiccompoundfoundinbeetsandthe

aromacomesfromgeosminanorganiccompoundfoundinbeetsandthesameionicaromayougetduringrainafteradryspellThisscentisdetectablebythehumannoseatverylowconcentrationsWalnutsareaperfectmatchfortheearthytasteofbeetroottheirbitternessbalancedbythesubtlesweetnessofthisgeosmingemMarkgrowsafascinatingparsleyandcelerycrosscalledpar-celItisso

pungentthatyouneedonlyasmallamountasanalternativetocelery

SERVES61kgbeetrootcutinto2cmdice500gonionscutinto2cmdice250gcarrotscutinto2cmdice1litrebeefstock(seehere)2tablespoonschoppedpar-cel(oruse250gceleryandahandfulofparsleystalks)

seasaltroastedcobnutoiltoserve(weuseoilfromHurstwoodFarminKentseeourlistofFriendsandSuppliersonhere)FORTHEWALNUTICECREAM

225gclottedcream75gwalnutsfinelychopped

TomakethewalnuticecreamsimplystirboththeingredientstogetherthenfreezeinaplasticboxBecauseofthehighfatcontentthecreamwillstillbesupplewhenfrozenandbeautifulscoopedswirlscanbemadebypullingaspoonoverthesurfacejustbeforeservingthesoup

Putthebeetrootonionsandcarrotsintoapanwiththebeefstockandpar-celthenaddenoughwatertocoverthevegetablesBringtotheboilcoverandsimmerfor35minutesoruntilthevegetablesaretenderbutnotfallingapartPourthecontentsintoacolandersetoverabowlandleaveuntilthoroughlydrainedTastethestockandseasonwithsalttotasteItwillbeadarkrichcolourandheavilyredonthespoonWatchyoursummerwhites

ThesoupistheliquidthatcomesfromdrainingthevegetablessoleavethistocoolandthenchillIfyouneedtochillthesoupquicklyplaceicecubesinafreezerbagsealitandfloatitintheliquidAlternativelymakethesouponthesamedayasthewalnuticecreamandchillitovernightThevegetables

thesamedayasthewalnuticecreamandchillitovernightThevegetablesthathavebeencookedinthestockcanbereservedandservedasamashonanotheroccasion(mashtherootsandonionsseasonwithsaltbutterandchoppedtarragonreheatgentlyandservewithleftoversmustardisgreattolivenituptoo)

Servethesoupchilledwithaspoonfulofthewalnuticecreamandasmatteringofrichroastedcobnutoilwhichwillshimmeronthesurfacealluringly

daggerWalnutsareoneofthemostpopularnutsinBritainhistoricalrecordsshowthatwalnuttreesweregrownintheearlymedievalperiodTheyareagluttonrsquosdelightSinceharvestswereuncertainfromoneyeartothenextitwasthoughtacceptabletoeatasmanywalnutsaspossiblewhentheharvestwasplentifulWalnutswerethoughttohelpdigestionsotheywereeatenwholeattheendofthemealOnecanimaginethatthisbeliefdespitebeingtotallyunfoundedwouldhaveencouragedpost-mealconversationwhichisprobablythereasonthetraditioncontinuedwellintothetwentiethcentury

Ewersquos-curd-stuffedCourgetteFlowerswithFennelSherbet

CourgetteflowershaveneverreallybeenpopularintheUKPaucirclahasfondmemoriesofeatingtheminquesadillasinMexicowhenshewasachildSheusedtobuythematastallonhergrandmotherrsquosstreetclosetothemarketwheretheywouldarriveeverymorningincopiousamountsaddingatouchofsunshinetoanalreadycolourfulstallShetalkedaboutthemsomuchthattheywereoneofthefirstdishesMatthewtriedwhenhetravelledtoMexicotomeetPaucirclarsquosfamilySincethenwehavewonderedwhethertheirlackofpopularityintheUKisdowntothegeneralviewthatcourgettesdonottasteofmuchatallandconsequentlythattheirflowersdonrsquoteitherTheygrowwellheresothereshouldcertainlynotbeashortageofflowersinthesummerItwouldbeanabsolutepleasureforusiftheBritishcouldadoptthecourgettefullyintotheircookingInthisdishtheflowersarebakedndashprimarilysothattheewersquoscurdmelts

becomingcreamierbutalsobecausetheytendtobealittlebitspikywhenrawNotonlydotheylookfantasticontheplatebutsurelyfewotherflowersepitomisesummersoeffectivelyWedareanyonenottothinkofsunshinewhenpresentedwithabright-yellowcourgetteflowerThefennelsherbetaddsatouchoffreshnesstobalancethemilkycobnuts

SERVES41yellowand1greencourgette8courgetteflowersstamensremoved160gfreshewersquoscurd40gfreshcobnutslightlycrushedcobnutorhazelnutoilfordrizzling

FORTHEWILDFENNELSHERBET

100gicingsugar2tspcitricacid1tspbicarbonateofsoda1tbspwildfennelseeds(orordinaryfennelseeds)

Tomakethesherbetputalltheingredientsinablenderandblitzuntilthe

Tomakethesherbetputalltheingredientsinablenderandblitzuntiltheseedsarefinelygroundthenpassthroughafinesieve(Itwillkeepinanairtightcontainerforuptoamonthandisgreatwithicecreamsandsprinkledoverotherdesserts)Heattheovento200degCGasMark6Topandtailthecourgettesthencutthemalongtheirlengthinwafer-thinslicesusingamandolineorvegetablepeelerStufftheflowerswiththeewersquoscurdTodothiswefillapipingbagwiththecurdandplacethetipofthenozzleintheflowerbeforefillingAlternativelyyoucouldjustgentlyopenuptheflowersandspooninthecurdPlacetheflowersonaroastingtrayandbakefor2ndash3minutesuntilthecheesehasmeltedandthetipsoftheleavesarebeginningtocrispalittleRemovefromtheovenandkeepwarm

Arrangethecourgetteribbonsdecorativelyon4servingplatesandplacethestuffedflowersamongstthemLightlyscatterwiththecobnutsaddadrizzleofoilandthendustwiththefennelsherbet

GlobeArtichokeswithHollandaiseSauceandSumac

TheinspirationforthisdishcomesfromPaucirclaItwasthemostrequesteddishinherMexicangrandmotherrsquosvastrepertoireandwithgoodreasonShedidnotalwayssayyestothisparticularrequestasitwastrulyalabourofloveIttooksolongtopreparethatshewouldwaitforaspecialoccasionwhensheknewmostofthefamilywouldbepresentOnlythenwouldshestartthelaborioustaskofcarefullyplacingasliceofpanelacheesebetweeneachartichokeleafTheclosershegottothecentreoftheartichoketheharderthisbecameShewouldthencoverthemwithasecretmixtureinvolvingbreadcrumbsandeggsbeforedeep-fryingTherewasatleastoneartichokeforeachmemberofthefamilyandsinceitwasnotthesmallestfamilyyoucanimaginehowlongthewholeprocesstookForPaucirclaitsymbolisescommunaleatingwithplentyofstoriesandconversationbeforeyoureachedtheartichokersquoshearteatenwithagenerousamountoffreshlysqueezedlimejuiceandwasheddownwithamezcal(forthosewhowereoldenough)GlobeartichokesaremembersofthethistlefamilyAlthoughtheyare

availableallyearroundtheyareattheirbestduringthesummerThedayMarkthegardenerhandedussomeglobeartichokesstraightfromthegardenweknewwewantedtoreplicatetheideaofcommunalartichokeeatingWecameupwithhollandaisesaucewithsumacfordippingtheleavesintoItrsquosalsoprettygoodwithananchovyandcregravemefraicircchedip(seehere)whichmakesasimpleralternativetothehollandaiseoryoucanservethembothAwordofwarningisneededherethisisnotadishforthefastidiouseater

UsingyourfingersisprettymucharequirementanditishighlylikelythatyouwillneedtolickthemattheendDonrsquotbotherwithserviettestheywillonlyhamperyourenjoymentPlacetheartichokeplatewiththebowlofhollandaiseinthecentreinthemiddleofthetableandpeelofftheouterleavesfromyourartichokeDipthemintothehollandaisesauceandsumacbeforeeatingthetenderflesharoundthebaseofeachleafPaucirclarsquosgrandmotherwouldnodoubtapprove

SERVES44largeglobeartichokesstalksremoved

HollandaiseSauce(seehere)andorAnchovyCregravemeFraicirccheDip(seehere)toservealittlesumacforsprinkling

UsingapairofscissorscutthetipofeachspikyleafofftheartichokesThesespikesarenotsuchfuntoeatPuttheartichokesinasteamerandsteamoveragentleheatfor25minutesoruntiltender

Meanwhilewhipupthehollandaisesauceortheanchovycregravemefraicircchedip(orboth)Putthemintobowlsandsprinklethehollandaisewithsumac

RemovetheartichokesfromthesteamerandserveonaplateHaveasparebowlatthesidetodiscardtheinediblepartsoftheleavesStartpeelingtheleavesawayfromtheartichokeThebaseofeachleafyieldsasmallfleshymorselDipthebaseintothesaucesandeatstraightofftheleafdiscardingtherestoftheleafEveryleafyoueatwillyieldmoreandmoreediblefleshuntilyougettotheheartoftheartichokendashundoubtedlythebestbitndashbuttakecaretoremovethehairylayeroflsquochokersquo

PeaGoatBaconandLovageBroth

Baconandpeashasbeenaclassiccombinationsincethe1600swhenaccordingtoAlanDavidsonrsquosOxfordCompaniontoFood(OxfordUniversityPress1999)theyweresoldasstreetfoodlsquohotgreypeaseandasuckofbaconrsquoThepeaswouldhavebeendriedbutwefavourfreshpeaswhicharegrownbyMarkthegardenerInsteadofordinarybaconweuseourownlsquogoatbaconrsquoorcuredgoatloinIthasrichcuminovertonesfromthesimplecureandispleasantlysaltyLovageandpeasworkwelltogetherThisisworkingfoodndashitlooksandtasteslikeadishthatshouldbeeaten

afteraharddayinthegardenThegoatbaconneedstobemadeseveraldaysbeforerequiredbutoncecureditwillkeepfortwoweeksandcanbeusedinthesamewayasordinarybaconYourbutchershouldbeabletoordergoatloinforyoubutifyoucanrsquotgetholdofitsubstituteporktenderloin

SERVES41kgunshelledfreshpeasrapeseedoil4smallredonionsor8springonionscutintoquarters1litrewhitechickenstock(seehere)abunchoflovageleavesasplashofcidervinegarifneededseasalt

FORTHEGOATBACON

2goatloinsweighing250ndash350geachsilvermembraneremoved20gfineseasalt10gdarkmuscovadosugar1tspfennelseeds2tspcorianderseeds1tbspcuminseedsfrac12tspblackpeppercorns

FirstmakethebaconTietheloinstogetherwithseverallengthsofbutcherrsquosstringatintervalsof5cmorsoPlacethesaltsugarandspicesinafoodprocessororspicegrinderandblitztoafinepowderLaytheloinsonalarge

pieceofclingfilmatleast4timesaswideastheloinsCoverwiththespicemixtureandwraptightlyintheclingfilmPlaceinalargeplasticcontainerandleaveinthefridgefor5ndash7daysturningonceadayDonotdrainoffanyliquidthatescapesduringthistime

RemovethebaconfromthefridgewashoffallthespicesunderacoldtapandpatdryonkitchenpaperHangthemeatinawarmwell-ventilatedareasuchasthekitchenoranairingcupboardfor12hoursoruntilitiscompletelydrytothetouchndashatemperatureof25degCisidealsoadjustthetimeyouhangthemeataccordinglyWhenthebaconisreadyitshouldhaveadistinctsweetgoatsmellandberichincumin

ShellthepeasensuringyouhavesomethingelsetonibbleordrinkalongsidendashotherwiseyoursquollbeluckytohaveanyleftbytheendHeatalittlerapeseedoilinasaucepanaddtheonionsandfryuntillightlycolouredUsingalargesharpknifecut15slicesfromthegoatbaconthethicknessofbaconrashersAddthemtothepanandfrytilltheytakeonsomeofthecaramelcolourfromtheonionsAddagoodsplashofthechickenstockstirringtodeglazethepanPourintheremainingstockthenaddthelovageleavesandthepeasBringtoasimmerandcookforacoupleofminutesuntilthepeasaretenderTastethebrothanddecidewhetheritrequiressaltandasplashofcidervinegarVinegarwillcutthroughthefattinessofadishandcalmanysaltinessAbigbowlofpeasforteaHappypeadaysforsure

ScallopsinPuffPastrywithVermouthandFennelCream

ThislookslikeaverysimpledishalmostasifithadjustbeenpluckedfromtheshorelineChoosethecurvedshellofthescalloptoservetheminratherthantheflatoneThepastrycoverleavesyourgueststhetaskofdiscoveringwhatyouhaveplacedbeneathSincescallopsneedverylittlecookingandtheshellsconductheatsowellalltheingredientsquicklysteamunderthepastryasitcrispsintheovenThedishcanbeassembledinadvancekeptchilledandthenfinishedin10minutes(addacoupleofminutestothecookingtimeiftheyrsquovebeenkeptinthefridge)ThesauceisbasedonasimplereductionReducingliquidbyboilingit

rapidlyforcesittoevaporatecausingittothickengraduallyThecombinationoffishstockvermouthandcreambeginsassweetandrichandendsupwithasavouryandsatiatingbitternessafterbeingreducedFennelisaningredientinsomevermouthsandhasatriedandtestedaffinitywiththebotanicalflavoursinourvermouth(seehere)Thescallopscanbeservedonfennelfrondsthosefeatheryleavesatthetopofthefennelbulb

SERVES6150mlfishstock(seehere)75mlsinglecream50mldryvermouth(forourhouseVermouthseehere)6diver-caughtscallopsincludingtheorangeroeplustheirshells1smallcarrot1smallonionfrac14smallbronzefennelbulb320gpuffpastry(forhomemadeseehere)1eggbeatenwithapinchofsalttoglazeseasaltandblackpepper

Putthefishstockinaheavy-bottomedpanplaceoverafairlyhighheatandletitboilawayvigorouslyuntilreducedbyhalfitsvolumeAddthecreamandvermouthandcontinuetoboiluntilthesaucehasthickenedandreducedbyhalfagainTasteandaddsaltifneededthenremovefromtheheatand

leavetocool

Sliceeachscallophorizontallyinto3iftheyarethickenoughtodosoorinhalfiftheyarealittlesmallerCutthecarrotintomatchstick-sizedpiecesandfinelydicetheonionCutthefennelbulbquarterintoveryfineslicesAddalayerofeachvegetabletoeachcurvedscallopshellandplacethescallopslicesontopPouracoupleoftablespoonsofthesauceovereachscallopandcracksomeblackpepperoverthem

Rolloutthepastryonalightlyflouredworktopto2ndash3mmthickCutitinto6squareslargeenoughtocoverthescallopshellsPressthepastryontotheedgeofeachshellworkingrounditwithyourthumbsothesharpshellcutsthroughtrimmingofftheexcessThiswillsealtheedgesatthesametimeCoverwithclingfilmandchilluntilneeded

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6Brushthepastrywiththebeateneggandplacetheshellsintheovenfor8minutesoruntilthepastryislightlycoloured

PickledPollackwithFlame-roastedPeppersCucumberPulBiberChilliandWaterMint

PollackmakesasuperbsustainablealternativetoitscloserelativescodandhaddockwhichhavebecomeoverfishedalmosttothepointofextinctioninsomepartsoftheworldItsflakytextureisverysimilartothatofthebetter-knownwhitefishyetithassufferedabadreputationinthepastandhasbeencriticisedforbeingtastelessEventheillustriousJaneGrigsoninherbookFishCookery(MichaelJosephLtd1973)relegatedittothequalityofaMondayfishratherthanaFridayoneWecouldnotdisagreemoreTheearthinessoftheroastedpeppersperfectlycomplementstheacidityinthepickledfishwiththecucumberandmintaddingatouchoffreshnessThedishisfinishedwithascatteringofpulbiberchilliAlsoknownasAleppopepperthisisafruitymedium-hotchilliwithcuminovertonesasaltytasteandanoilyfinishItmarrieswiththemintexceptionallywellScallopsmakeagreatalternativetopollackinthisrecipe

SERVES4650ndash750gpollackfillet4tbspcoarseseasalt2redpeppers1cucumberahandfulofwatermint(orgardenmint)100glandcressorwatercressjuiceof4limesmixedwithequalpartsofcidervinegarafewpulbiber(Aleppo)chilliflakes

ThefirstjobistocurethefishbysaltingitndashthisdrawssomeofthewaterfromitScatterthecoarsesaltoveraplasticorwoodentrayandplacethefishonitskin-sideupCoverwithclingfilmandplaceinthefridgefor1frac12hoursnomoreInthemeantimeflame-roastthepeppers(seehere)andslicethemintostripsSlicethecucumberintolongstripsbypullingavegetablepeelerdownitslengthandwashandpatdrythemintandcress

RemovethefishfilletfromthefridgerinseoffanyresidualsaltandpatdrywithkitchenpaperItwillhavefirmedupnicelymakingthenextstepeasier

withkitchenpaperItwillhavefirmedupnicelymakingthenextstepeasierwhileseasoningatthesametimeWithasharpknifecuttingawayfromyouatanangleslicethinstripsoffishfromtheskinandplacetheminthelimejuiceandvinegarmixtureTheacidwilleffectivelylsquocookrsquothefishbyloweringitspHlevelThisforcescoagulationinthesamewayheatdoesbutmoreslowlyFinelyslicedasitisthefishwillneedamaximumof20minutesforthistohappenYouwillseeitturnwhiteassoonasitlandsintheliquid

ArrangethewatercresscucumberslicesofpepperandmintontheplatesPlacethepollackslicesamongsttheleavesanddustwithafewpulbiberflakes

DorsetBlueVinnyandFlame-roastedPepperswithCharredLittleGem

ThissaladissimplesummerfoodanddeservestobecookedandassembledinallitspartsoutsideFlame-roastingisourfavouritewayofcookingpeppersThesmokeimpartsadepthofflavourthatactsasagreatcontrasttotheirinherentsweetnessWeliketocookthemonabarbecuewhenthefirehasdiedawayandthecoalsaresearinglyhotThepeppersarelaidinaspiralformationdirectlyonthecoalsandturnedoverinorderastheirskinsturntoslateblackLeavingthemonthebarbecuefortoolongwillmakepeelingthecharredskinverydifficultsoanattentiveeyeisneededWeoftencookauberginesinthesamewayonthebarbecueoragashob

OncetheskinshaveblackenedmakesurethatyoudonotloseanyofthepreciousjuicethatiscontainedwithinthefruitIthasaflavourthatmustbeexperiencedWelikecorianderseedsherefortheirgentlegrassyorange-likeflavour

aswellasalittlegroundcorianderWealsodropafewcorianderflowersintothesaladTheirflavourismilderthancorianderleavesandatfirstglancetheyresemblecowparsleyDorsetBlueVinnyisastapleinourkitchenApieceontheripersideisblendedwithcregravemefraicircchetomakeasauce

SERVES4ASAMAINCOURSE6ndash8ASASTARTER2Romeropeppers200ndash250gnewpotatoescutinto1cmpieces6ndash8LittleGemlettucesvegetableorrapeseedoilforbrushing300gmixedlettuceleavesTheEthicureanSaladDressing(seehere)6ndash8corianderflowerheadsgroundcorianderfordusting2tspcorianderseedslightlycrushed

FORTHEDORSETBLUEVINNYSAUCE

50gDorsetBlueVinnyroughlychopped

50gDorsetBlueVinnyroughlychopped150mlcregravemefraicirccheseasalt

BeginbyroastingthepepperseitheronabarbecueasdescribedaboveoronagashobasfollowsturnagasringonfullplacethepeppersdirectlyontheflameandleaveuntiltheskinbeginstoblisterandblackenUsingmetaltongsturnthepeppersandrepeatontheothersideItispossibletoovercookthepeppersbythismethodsocareisneededtoensurethatonlytheskinisincontactwiththeflame(IfyoudonothaveagashobthencutthepeppersverticallyinhalfandremovetheirseedsLightlyoiltheskinandplaceunderahotgrilluntiltheskinblistersandblackens)Assoonasthepeppersareblackenedalloverplaceinasmallbowlcoverwithclingfilmandleavefor20minutes

Meanwhilecookthepotatoesinboilingsaltedwaterforabout12minutesuntilaknifetippassesthroughthepotatowithlittleresistanceDrainandleavetocool

PuttheDorsetBlueVinnyandcregravemefraicirccheinablenderorfoodprocessorandblitzuntilsmoothSeasonwithsalttotasteIfthecheeseistoostrongforyourlikingsimplylengthenitwithalittlemorecregravemefraicircche

WithalightlydampenedclothorhandtowelrubthepepperstoremovetheblackenedskinSplittheminhalfandremovetheseedsTearthepeppersverticallyalongtheirnaturallsquograinrsquointostripsabout5ndash10mmthickandsetaside

PlaceagriddlepanoverahighheatLightlybrushtheoutsideofeachLittleGemlettucewithrapeseedorvegetableoilPutthemonthegriddlepanandleaveundisturbeduntiltherearecharredlinesunderneathTurnandrepeatonallsidesuntiltheleavesarecolouredandtenderAvoidovercookingthemwhichwouldresultintoodarkacolourandacrisptextureSetasideinawarmplace

PutthecharredLittleGemonservingplatesamongstthemixedleavesScatterthepotatoesaroundandlightlydresstheleaveswiththesaladdressingDotthepepperstripsthroughouttheleavesandadddropsoftheBlueVinnydressingSeparatethecorianderheadsintosmallerflowersand

usetogarnishthesaladDustwithgroundcorianderandafewcrushedcorianderseeds

JohnDorywithMorelMushroomsFlatBeansHaricotBeansandHamHockStock

MorelmushroomshaveanaturalaffinitywithfishandmakeaparticularlyfinecompaniontoJohnDoryJackcanrememberpreppingthisfishduringhisfirstjobasakitchenporterThespinesweresharpbutthecookedfishwasarevelationAlittlefishmongeringisrequiredherendashitrsquosnotatallcomplicatedifyou

wanttogiveitagoyourselfThefilletsonJohnDoryareconnectedonlylightlyandcanalmostbeprisedfreewiththumbsaloneoncethespineisremovedwithscissorsTheoutsideofthefishshowsadistinctarcedlinethatsweepsinagentlelsquosrsquoThisiswherethespinerunsandisakeyidentifierinunderstandingitssimpleyetbeautifulanatomyIfyouarenewtofilletingjusttakeyourtimeanduseyourfingerstofeelaroundthebonesasyougoAknifeshouldonlyreallybeneededtocoaxthefilletsfreeinsomeplacesBythetimeyouhaveextractedthefourfilletsyouwillwellandtrulyunderstandtheprocessJohnDoryisoneofthefirstfishwelettheyoungrsquounsprepareattherestaurantWeonlygivethemonewarningonanykindoffishdonrsquotrubyourhandupwardsfromtailtoheadastheyarealwaysspikythiswayTherehaveneverbeenanycomplicationsandallcomeawaybeamingathavingmasteredanewskillSomefishhavedelicateskinswhichmakeverygoodeatingJohnDory

skinisoneofourfavouritesThesecrettoensuringitiscrispanddeliciousistomakesureitisverydrybeforecookingRemovethefishfilletsfromthefridgeandplacethemflesh-sidedownonaboardRunaknifesidewaysovertheskinlikeasqueegeeonawindowandasurprisingamountofliquidwillbefreedPatthisawaywithkitchenpaperandthefishwillbereadytocookHamandharicotbeanisaclassicpairingPulsescanbecookedwitha

pigrsquostrotterwhichaddsglossandsheenfromthegelatineinthebonesInthisrecipeweusehamhockstocktodothesamejob

SERVES4300gharicotbeanssoakedin2changesofcoldwaterfor12ndash24hoursthendrained

5gdriedmorelmushroomscidervinegar

cidervinegarabout400mlhamhockbroth(seehere)abunchofflat-leafparsleyorlovage200gflatbeans(alsoknownasheldabeans)trimmedandcutintobite-sizedchunks

rapeseedoil2JohnDoryweighing500ndash750geachfilleted(askyourfishmongertodothisifyouprefer)

flakyseasalt

CoverthesoakedbeanswithfreshwaterandbringtotheboilReducetheheatandsimmerfor35minutesuntiljustcookedbutstillwithalittlebiteDrainandsetaside

Coverthemushroomswithhotwateraddasplashofcidervinegarandleavethemtosoftenfor20minutesMorelsaretypicallyfoundonsandysoilandhavemyriadcavitiesinwhichthiscangettrappedGentlymassagethesoftenedmushroomstohelpfreeanysandorgritwhichwillsinktothebottomofthewaterOncethemorelsarecleanpourthevaluableearthyliquidintoacupdiscardingthesandydregsSlicethemushrooms

PutthedrainedbeansinasaucepanthenaddthemushroomsoakingliquidandenoughhamhockbrothtocoverthemjustbarelyAddtheslicedmorelsacoupleofstalksfromtheparsleyorlovageandtheflatbeansandbringtoasimmerCookstirringoccasionallyuntilthestockhasreducedenoughtocoatthebeansRemovefromtheheatseasonandcoverwithalid

Placealargeheavy-basednon-stickfryingpanoveramediumheatandletitheatupAddenoughrapeseedoiltocreatealargepuddleItmightsmokelightlyasitheatsthisisagoodindicatorthatitisreadytocookinSprinkleflakysaltontheskinsideofthefishandlaythefilletsskin-sidedownintheoilIfyoucanfitonly2filletsinthepancookthemin2batchesastheskinwonrsquotcrispifthepaniscrowdedIfyouhavesomesmallramekinsplaceoneonthemiddleofeachfillettoholditflatResisttheurgetomovethefilletsinthepanAfter3ndash4minutesthefishshouldhaveturnedwhitearoundtheedgesandthroughtothetopexposedfleshTheextremeedgeswillalsobegintobrownalittleOncethebandofwhiteattheedgeofthefishhas

begintobrownalittleOncethebandofwhiteattheedgeofthefishhasworked1ndash2cminwardsthenyoucanliftthefishslightlywithafishsliceandpeerunderneaththeskinshouldbealightcaramelcolourTurnthefilletsoverandremovethepanfromtheheatTheresidualheatwillbemorethansufficienttocooktheothersidewithinaminuteortwo

Servethefishalongsidethecookedbeanswithchoppedflat-leafparsleyorlovage

daggerJohnDoryisbesteatenwhensummerdrawstoacloseasJunetoAugustisthebreedingseasonIthasalargeeye-likepatchonitsflankthatconfusesbothpredatorsandpreytheformerfearingalargerfishandthelattermistakingitforamouthApopularlegendisthatthemarkonaJohnDoryisthethumbprintofStPeterthekeeperofthegatesofheavenThoughcoveredinspinesandyieldingaprehistoric-lookingflatbodyJohnDoryisafearfullytastynativefish

MusselsinCiderwithTarragon

MusselsareoneofourfavouriteshellfishWearetrulyaddictedtothemandfeelyoucanneverhaveenoughItisperhapswithoutmuchobjectivitythereforethatwewouldclaimtheyareoneofthemostoutstandingfoodstobefoundintheBritishIslesWehaveintroducedaWestCountrytwisttothisclassicrecipewiththe

additionofamedium-drylocalcidercalledPerryrsquosDabinettbutanygoodmedium-drycidercanbesubstitutedRatherthanusingfishstockweoptforthedeeplyrichandmeatypressure-cookedchickenstockthatisanessentialpartofourkitchenroutine(seehere)ChickenandciderhaveagreataffinitywitheachotherandyouwillsoonseewhythecombinationworkssowellinthisdishThelsquobridgingrsquoflavouristhetarragonIfyoudonrsquothaveanyyoucansubstitutestaranise

SERVES2(OR4ASASTARTER)1ndash15kglivemusselsrapeseedoil3shallotsslicedintohalfmoons1garlicclovecrushedunderaknifeandthenfinelysliced250mlmedium-drycider250mlbrownchickenstock(seehere)100mldoublecream4sprigsoftarragonseasaltsourdoughbreadtoserve

ItisimportanttocleanthemusselsandcheckthattheyarealivebeforecookingRinsethemundercoldwaterandremovetheirlsquobeardsrsquobypullingthemawayInevitablyafewmusselswillbeslightlyopenTapthemquitehardseveraltimesontheworksurfaceIfafteraminuteorsothemusselclosesthenyouknowitisaliveAnymusselsthatdonotcloseshouldbediscarded

HeatasplashofrapeseedoilinalargepanaddtheshallotsandgarlicandfryoveramediumheatuntilsoftenedbutnotbrownedAddtheciderchicken

overamediumheatuntilsoftenedbutnotbrownedAddtheciderchickenstockandcreamandturntheheatuphighwiththelidonOncetheliquidhascometoarapidboilandthereisplentyofsteamaddthemusselstothepanStironcecoverthepanagainandcookfor2ndash3minutesuntilthemusselsopenAddthetarragonsprigsandstirthemusselstocheckthatthemajorityhaveopenedAnythatdonrsquotopenshouldbediscardedItisfareasiertoovercookmusselsthanitistoundercookthemsoresisttheurgetocontinueanylonger

Withaslottedspoondividethemusselsbetween2servingbowlsthentastethecookingliquidandaddsaltifneededitwillprobablyalreadybesaltyfromthemusselsLadletheliquoroverthemusselsandgetamongstthemprontoAnemptymusselshellmakesaperfectsetoftweezersforremovingtheremainingmusselsfromtheirshellsanddecentsourdoughbreadwillthirstilymopupthelastdropsoftheliquor

SteamedMegrimSolewithRockSamphireandSumac-braisedFennel

RocksamphirehascomplexcitrusnoteshintsofeucalyptusandadelicatelingeringbitternessthatpairswellwithfishWeforagerocksamphirefromthelocalcoastline

SERVES260gbutteratroomtemperatureplusanextraknob1tbspchoppedmixedflat-leafparsleythymeandmint2tbspsumac4tbspcidervinegar2fennelbulbsrapeseedoil2carrots1megrimsoleweighing750gndash1kg(or1witchor2dabs)200grocksamphireormarshsamphireaglassofwhitewineseasaltandblackpeppercrustybreadtoserve

Beatthe60gbutterwiththeparsleythymeandmintthenchillBringthesumacandcidervinegartoasimmerinasmallsaucepanthenstrainandreservetheliquid

LightlytrimthetopandbottomofthefennelbulbsCuteachoneverticallyintoquartersthecorewillholdeachpiecetogetherinsegmentsHeattheknobofbutterinapanwithasplashofrapeseedoilAddthefennelandcookoveramedium-highheatfor5ndash6minutesoneachsideuntilbrownedandlightlycaramelisedAddsomesaltandthesumacvinegarwhichshouldroughlycoverthebaseofthepanCoverandcookgentlyfor20ndash25minutesthefennelshouldstillofferalittleresistancetothetipofasharpknifeWhenitiscookedwiththefishlateritwillbecomeverytender

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6Slicethecarrotsasfinelyasyoucan

downtheirlengthIfyoudonrsquothaveamandolineay-shapedvegetablepeelerwillmakeperfectstripstoo

Placealengthofthickfoil2frac12timesthelengthofthefishonaworksurfacePutthecookedfenneltowardsoneendofthefoilandrestthefishonitScatterthesamphireandcarrotsontopofthefishandseasonwithsaltandpepperPulltheedgesofthefoiluparoundthefishandthenpourinthewineCoverthefishwiththeotherendofthefoilandfoldtheedgesintosealittightPlaceonabakingsheetintheovenandbakefor12ndash16minutesuntilthefleshcomesawayfromthespineeasilywhenaknifeisinsertedneartheboneItcouldalsobecookedonabarbecuewithalidastheglassofwinesteamsthefishprettyquicklyThetimingwillbesimilarbutwilldependontheheatofthebarbecue

DropthechilledherbedbutterontothefishpriortoservingThisdishrarelymakesitoutofthefoilatourplacesojustneedsawarmplatetocarryittothetableEatwithcrustybreadtomopupthelastofthejuiceswhichareimpossibletoresist

SALTANDVINEGARPICKLING

SaltandvinegarpreservationisagreatwayofstoringforagedorgardensummerfoodsWhenusedasgarnishesandingredientsinthewintertheywilladdmuchtotheplateduringaseasonwherelessgrows1CalculatingyieldandnumberofjarsWashalltheforagedorgardenvegetablesthoroughlyinacoupleofchangesofcoldwaterWeighthevegetablesandmakeanoteofthequantityPlaceanemptysterilisedjaronthescalesandsetthemtozero(orlsquotarersquo)PackthevegetablesintothejarpressingdownwellandnotedowntheweightDividethetotalweightofthevegetablesbytheweightofthevegetablesinthejar(Soifyouhave130ginthejarand1300gtotalvegetablesyouwillget1300130=10jars)2CalculatingquantitiesofvinegarandsaltPlaceapanonthescalesandsetthemtozero(orlsquotarersquo)Addenoughpicklingorcidervinegartothejartocoverthevegetablesby1cmdepthPouroffthevinegarintothesaucepananddecantthevegetablesintoaseparatebowlMultiplytheweightofvinegarbythenumberofjarsyouhavelinedupandfillthepanwiththisamountofvinegarYouthenneedtoaddtenpercentsalt(Sofor1100gvinegaryouneed110gsalt)3SterilisingUsejarsthathavelidsthatwillsealwelljarsthathaverubberseals(egKilnerjars)arebest(removethesealsbeforeplacingintheOven)Preheattheovento140degCGasMark1WashthejarsinhotsoapywateranddrainwellPlaceonabakingtrayintheovenTheyneedatleast20minutesbutcanstayintheovenuntilneededastheyshouldbehotwhenthecontentsareaddedtopreventtheglasscracking4CookingtheingredientsThismethodisidealforfineorfinelyslicedingredientssuchascourgettessamphireandelderberries

courgettessamphireandelderberriesBringthevinegartotheboilandaddyourchosenspicemix

LowerthevegetablesintothebubblingliquidTheboilingwilllikelystopMaintainthehighheatandwatchfortheliquidtoreturntoarapidboilScoopoutthevegetablesandaddthemtothehotsterilisedjarsContinueuntilallthejarsarefilledthenpourthehotvinegarandspicesintoeachjarcoveringby1cmdepthWithteatowelinhandclosethejarsfirmly(havingreplacedtherubbersealsifusing)andturnthejarsupsidedown

Pickledrocksamphire

PERLITREOFCIDERORPICKLINGVINEGAR

100gseasalt1tablespooncorianderseed1tbspblackpeppercorns8staranise16allspiceberries8freshbayleavesfreshrocksamphire(seehere)

Frythespices(exceptthebayleaves)inalargefryingpanoveramediumheatuntiltheystarttoreleasetheiraromasAddtotheboilingvinegarmixfollowedbythesamphireandfollowtheinstructionsinstep4above

WaterBuffaloFilletwithClearChickenStockTarragonandSalt-bakedBabyBeets

ThechickenstockforthisdishneedsfreezingandthendefrostingthroughalayerofmuslintoclarifyitItwillhavegoldenhuesandbeasbrilliantandclearasbrandywiththismethodItisasomewhatlavishtechniquegiventhereductioninvolumethatoccursbutforaspecialoccasionsuchasasteakwethinkitisworthitThechickenandtarragonpairingistrulyawell-testedoneandthetarragonmakesagreatbridgeforthedelicatebeef-likefilletofbuffaloFormoreoncookingsteaksseehere

SERVES41litrebrownchickenstock(seehere)1kgbabybeetrootswiththeirleafytopsstillattached100grocksaltabunchoftarragon4waterbuffalofilletsteaks25cmthick(seehere)rapeseedoilseasalt

Freezethestockthenturnitoutofitscontainerandwrapitin2layersofmuslinPlaceinasievesetoverabowlthenputinthefridgeThegelatineimpuritiesandfatwillstaysolidinthemuslinatfridgetemperaturewhilethestockwillrunclearbelowResisttheurgetosqueezethemuslinitwilldraindryeventuallyThistechniqueyieldsabouthalftheinitialfrozenweightofstockinfinishedclarifiedstock

Heattheovento180degCGasMark4WashthebabybeetsandscrubthemwellTheywillprobablybeprettycleanatthisyoungagebutbemindfulofsoilresidueSpreadthesaltonabakingtrayandplacethebeetsontopWrapthetrayinfoilsealingitwellandbakefor1houroruntilthebeetsaretenderThesaltwilldrawoutmoistureandseasonthebeetsperfectly

About15minutesbeforethebeetsarecookedheattheclarifiedchickenstockinapanthentasteandseasonwithsaltifrequiredNowisagoodtimetogetyoursteakpansmokinghot

togetyoursteakpansmokinghot

BrushthesteaksverylightlywithrapeseedoilSeasonthemwithsaltbutnotpepperasitwillburnPutthesteaksinthepreheatedpanandleaveoverahighheatturningthemwithalongpairoftongsevery15ndash20secondsIfyouarecooking4filletsthiswillrequirestandingatthestoveturningtheminrotationduringthefewminutesneededtocookthemPeriodicallypresseachsteaktogaugehowwellcookedtheyareandwhenyoufeelyouhavethemspotonremovetoawarmplateLeavethemtorestsomewherewarmfor10minutesnolessThiswillallowthemtorelaxandreabsorbsomeofthejuicethatcomesfromthemInthistimedividethechickenstockbetween4deepplatesfinishingwithfreshtarragonsprigsFillasidebowlwiththebeetswhicharetobeeatenunceremoniouslywithyourfingersLayasteakoneachplateJobdone

WATERBUFFALO

WebuyourwaterbuffalomeatfromLowerOakleyFarmnearYeovilinSomersetTonyandJaneCoupekeepaherdof250ofthesedocilebeastsalldescendedfromAsianwaterbuffaloThecalvesstaywiththeirmothersforfivetosixmonthsthenafterweaningtheyeatnothingbutgrassandinwintersilagefromthefarmTheyareslaughteredat22ndash30monthsandthemeatishungforaminimumof21daysThereisverylittlemarblinginthemeatasmostofthefatisontheoutsideoftheanimalandaroundtheribsWaterbuffalomeathashighlevelsofomega-3fattyacidsandironandisregardedasanall-roundhealthyalternativetobeef

COOKINGSTEAK

WhencookingsteakthereareafewrulestoobserveAlwaysbringthesteaktoroomtemperatureforanhourbeforeithitsthepanasthiswillensureitcooksevenlySaltistheonlyseasoningtobeaddedbutnotfarinadvanceofcookingotherwiseitwilldrawmoisturefromthesteakTheheavierandthickerthepanthebettertheheatwillbedistributedcast-ironpansareidealThetemperatureofthepanisthenextthingtoconsiderItneedstobeveryhotsoputitontheheatandleaveuntilitissohotyoucannotholdyourhandaninchabovethenear-glowingsurfaceTocheckwhetherasteakisdonetoyourlikingpressitwith

yourthumbandgaugethepressurerequiredtodosoRaresteakwillfeelassoftasthefleshofyourcheekoveryourmolarsmediumwillbemorelikethefleshatthetopofyourcheekonyoureyesocketwhichismarginallyfirmerShouldyougetaskedtocookasteaklsquowelldonersquoandyoucanrsquotconvinceyourguestthatlsquomediumrsquowillbeperfectandtenderwithnohintsofredbloodnormallyassociatedwithafour-day-agedcutthenhereishowpressyourforeheadndashprettyfirmcomparedtoyourcheekandagoodwaytoconfirmthatasteakisovercookedthroughoutPainfultoseethatinthekitchenweknow

BarbecuedHorseMackerelwithCobnutSalbitxadaSauce

SinceweprideourselvesonhavingadirectrelationshipwiththeprocessofgrowingwemustadmitthatwearealittlejealousoftheCatalanwintercelebrationforcalcotsCalcotsaresuperbsweetonionsthatareforcedtogrowtallandpalebygraduallybuildingsoiluparoundthemWeknowouronionsandthisoneisacorkerAttentivegardeningisrewardedwiththecalcotadafestivalinJanuarywhentenderstemsarewrappedinnewspaperandthrownontohotcoalstilltheyarecharredTheblackenedskinsarepeeledawayanddippedinsalbitxadaaroastedpeppersaucethatisacachetofculinarybrillianceItisatitsbestwhenmadewithfreshalmondswhicharedelicatelycrispandeversoslightlymilkyndashqualitiesthatournativefreshcobnutsandhazelsshareGiventheabundanceofthesenutsinAugustweneededarecipeforthembeforetheyweresnaffledbythesquirrelsSalbitxadasauceprovedperfectusingupglutsofpeppersandtomatoesandanystalebreadInSpainsherryvinegarisusedbutexcellentvintagecidervinegariswhatwehavehereandithasequalvalueinoureyesWedecidedtocomeupwithourowneventforthesummermonths

whenheritagetomatoesareattheirpeakfourtypesofcobnutaredroppingfromthetreesandthebabyleeksarenighonimpossibletopriseoutofthegardenerrsquoshandsunlessthewordlsquociderrsquoismentionedThisisagreatcelebrationofallthehardworkthathasgoneintothegardenYouwillneedatleasttwogoodbagsofcharcoalplussomeonewhousedtobeascoutwhowillknowwhenthecharcoalisjustrighttocookonOhandiceinyourciderDeadposhWehaveusedhorsemackerelherebutherringsardinesorpilchardsline-

caughtseabassseabreamandblackbreamgreyorredmulletandpollackareallidealforcookingwholeovercoalsandwilllovethesalbitxadapairing

PERPERSON

1corncob4ndash5babyleeks1horsemackerelweighing400ndash500gcleanedalittlerapeseedoilabunchofsummersavory(orthymeorlemonthyme)

abunchofsummersavory(orthymeorlemonthyme)seasalt

FORTHECOBNUTSALBITXADASAUCE(ENOUGHFOR8)1moritachilli(orchipotlechilli)vintagecidervinegar5garliccloves500gheritagetomatoes150gstalesourdoughbreadcutintocubes4Romanopeppersflame-roasted(seehere)1tspsalt1tspsmokedpaprika100gshelledcobnutsfinelychoppedabout4tbsprapeseedoil

FirstmakethesauceTorehydratethechilliputitinasmallcupofboilingwaterwithatablespoonofcidervinegarmixedinandleavefor10minutes

Heattheovento180degCGasMark4WrapthegarlicclovesinfoilandplacethemonabakingsheetalongsidethetomatoesRoastintheovenfor25minutesuntilbothgarlicandtomatoesareverysoftPutthecubesofbreadonabakingsheetandtoastintheovenfor4minutesoruntilgoldenalloverSetthebreadtomatoesandgarlicasidetocoolthenpeeltheroastedtomatoesandgarlicbysqueezingthemfreeoftheirskinsReservealltheliquidandplaceitalongwiththetomatoesandgarlicpulpinablenderwiththepeppersDrainandchopthechilliandaddthatalongwiththesaltandsmokedpaprikaSplashenoughcidervinegaroverthebreadcubestosoftenthemDonrsquotbeshywiththevinegarasitisintegraltothetasteofthefinisheddishAddthebreadandcobnutstotheblenderturnitonandthenaddtherapeseedoilinaslowstreamtillthemixtureisliquidenoughtoblendTasteandchecktheseasoningAlthoughthiscanbemadeinadvanceyouwillhavetotrytoresisteatingitallbeforethebarbecue

GetyourbarbecuegoodandhotThecorncobsneeda30-minutedunkingincoldwaterstillintheirhusksbeforecookingThiswillmoistentheouterlayersenoughtoprotectthemfromthedirectheatofthecoalswhilesimultaneouslyaddingalittlemoistureinternallytohelpthesteaming

simultaneouslyaddingalittlemoistureinternallytohelpthesteamingprocessPlacethecobsdirectlyonthecoalsstillintheirhusksandcookforroughly15minutesturningevery5minutesuntiltenderWrapeachpersonrsquosportionofleeksin2or3layersofdampenednewspaperthensetthemdirectlyonthewhite-hotcoalsTheyarecookedperfectlywhenthepaperisentirelyblackenedandalmostburnedawayThecharredoutersandsteamedmiddlesareeversomoreish

BrushthefishwithalittleoilseasonwithsaltandstuffthecavitywiththeherbsCookonthebarbecuegrillturningonce(alternativelywrapinfoilandplacedirectlyonthecoalsfor5minutesperside)Thefishonthegrillcanbeconsideredcookedwhentheskiniscrispedalloverandthefleshcomesawayfromthespineeasily

HORSEMACKEREL

WediscoveredhorsemackerelwhenonedayitwasallthatwasavailablefromtheboatthatsuppliesusItturnsoutthathorse

mackerelarebright-eyedandgreatservedhotTheseshinylsquoscadrsquocanbefoundnativelyinthesummernotfarfromCornwallandareagreatalternativetocommonmackerelEversoslightlylessoilythanmackerelandgoodforroastingovercoalswestuffthebellywiththepepperymarjoram-likeherbsummersavoury

MixedwithvinegarsummersavourycanhavethesameapplicationasmintsauceSufficetosaywemakealittleofthisto

drizzleoverthefinishedcharcoaledfish

CURING

Saltingfoodorlsquocuringrsquowasamethoddevelopedtopreservefoodbringingdownawholeanimalmeantmoremeatthanthehunter-gatherercouldeatbeforeitwentbadItisbelievedthatdryingmeatwasoneofthefirstexperimentswithpreservationevenpredatingsaltingPeoplewouldleavemeatinthehotsuntodryoutorbuildasmallfireandplacethemeatoveritAlongthewaysomebodyfoundthatsaltingmeatofferedachemicalmeansofachievingthesameresultSaltingwasthencombinedwithsmokingtoachievealongerperiodwhenmeatwassafefromspoilageThesedaystheneedforpreservationhasbeensurpassedby

peoplersquostasteforcuredmeatCuredmeatspossessauniquetextureandintenseflavourbaconisprobablythemostobviousexampleofthisCuringisasimilarconcepttobriningbuthasadifferent

outcomeBrininggenerallyspeakinguseslowpercentagesofsaltinaliquidsolutiontobreakdownfilamentswithinthemuscleresultinginthemuscletakingonandholdingliquidduringthecookingprocessCuringontheotherhandcanbedoneeitherinliquidusingamuchhigherpercentageofsaltorwithadrysaltorspicerubCuringmeatdrawsmoistureoutcausingthemeattoundergo

apermanenttransformationintextureandflavourtheproductbecomesmoreconcentratedachievingamoreintenseflavourAndwhilethemoistureisbeingdrawnoutofthemeatthemeatcantakeonexternalflavoursThisopensupaworldofpossibilityforthecooktobecreativeYoucanaddspicesandherbstothesaltthenblitzitinafoodprocessorThisiswhatwedowhenwedowhenwecureourroeloin(seehere)andthegoatlointomakeourlsquogoatbaconrsquo(seehere)OurgoatbaconisoftenpilferedbythechefwhorsquoscookingonthestoveNeedlesstosaywersquove

almostalwaysgotgoatloincuringinthefridgeinafruitlessbattleagainsttheconstantsnarfingofourfreshculinarycreationTherearemanyvariableswhenitcomestocuringandyou

canbeascreativeandexperimentalasyoulikeAnyrecipesforwhichweusecuringincludethecuremixandtimeHoweverdoexperimentwiththetimethatthemeatisinthecurethetypesofspicesandherbsusedasthesewillallresultindifferentoutcomesAdoptaquestioningattitudeandseekoutanswersforyourself

FennelandSumacGravadTrout

ThisisourversionofthetraditionalScandinaviandishgravadlaxwhichtranslatesaslsquoburiedsalmonrsquondashanindicationofthewayitusedtobepreparedByburyingfishinaholeinthegroundinlayersitwaspreservedinanairtightspaceandlefttofermentTheadditionofsaltcamelateronwhenitbecamemorereadilyavailableOncethefishwasdugoutitmusthavebeenpungenttosaytheleastbutthebeautyofthismethodwasthatitallowedpeopletoeatfishevenwhenthefreshsupplieswerelonggoneHumaningenuityledtotheadditionofherbstomakeitmorepalatableandthecuringtimewasshortenedThecureinjectssomepungentflavourstobalanceoutthesubtletyinherentinfishHeretheaniseednotesinthefennelpairwellwiththecitrustonesofsumac

SERVES4ndash61ndash12kgfreshrainbowtroutfilleted

FORTHECURE

40gfineseasalt70gcastersugar2tspfennelseeds2tspsumac1tspcorianderseeds

frac12tspblackpeppercorns

PlacealltheingredientsforthecureinablenderorfoodprocessorandblitzuntilthespicesarefinelygroundSetaside

CheckthatnopinbonesremaininthetroutfilletsCutsomealuminiumfoilroughly4timesthewidthofatroutfilletand1frac12timesthelengthUseroughlyaquarterofthecuremixtomakeabedinthecentreofthefoilthesamelengthandheightasatroutfilletPlaceonefilletskin-sidedownontopSpreadtwo-thirdsoftheremainingcureoverthefishthenlaythesecondfilletontopofthefirstflesh-to-fleshSpreadtheremainingcureontop

BringthebottomhalfofthefoilupandthetophalfofthefoiloverthetroutsothattheyareedgetoedgeFoldthebottomfoiloverthetoptocreatea1cmpleatKeepfoldingthispleatoveritselfuntilthefoilisflushwiththetroutRepeatthesameprocessontheleftandrightsidesofthefoil

Placethetroutonatrayandweightitdownwithawoodenboardoracoupleofgood-sizedplatesLeaveinthefridgefor6daysLiquidwillbereleasedfromthefishbutavoidthetemptationtodrainitoffThishighlysalineliquidwillcontinuetocurethetrout

After6daysremovethefishfromthefoilparcelandrinseitunderacoldtapPatthefishdrywithkitchenpaperandleaveuncoveredinthefridgeforacoupleofhoursuntilcompletelydryPlaceonaboardandfinelyslicethefleshofftheskinatanangleusingaverysharpknife

ThetroutcanbeservedwithPickledPollack(seehere)orSpeltSodaBread(seehere)andCobnutSalbitxadaSauce(seehere)

WhiteRaspberryLoganberryandEwersquosYoghurtTerrinewithSweetCicelyConfit

Thisdessertusessomelesser-knownberrieswhichgroweasilyinBritishsoilWhiteraspberriesarenotthoughttobenativetoBritainbutthebushesattheWalledGardenseemtothriveandweobtainplentyoffruitChildren

attheWalledGardenseemtothriveandweobtainplentyoffruitChildrenseemtolikethemfindingtheircolourorlackofitratherintriguingTheyareverysweetwithlittleornoacidityandarebestusedindisheswheretheirsubtleflavourisnotoverpoweredLoganberriesaresurprisinglydifficulttofindAnineteenth-century

hybridbetweenablackberryandaraspberrytheylooklikeelongatedraspberriesacquiringadeeppurplish-redcolourwhenripeTheyareonthetangysideandbenefitfromtheadditionofsugarwhenusedincookingYoucouldalsoservethisterrinewithtwosimplecompotesofloganberries

andraspberriesasshowninthephoto

SERVES8ndash10500gwhiteraspberries(orordinaryraspberriesifunavailable)500gloganberries20ggelatineleaves240gfructose(fruitsugar)150gewersquosyoghurt100gdoublecream50gcastersugar1vanillapodmintleaves(optional)togarnish

FORTHEMACERATEDLOGANBERRIES

100gloganberries150mlcidervinegar250gcastersugar

FORTHESWEETCICELYCONFIT(OPTIONAL)

100gcastersugar100mlwhitewine20gsweetcicelystalksfinelysliced

FirstpreparethemaceratedloganberriesPuttheberriesinabowlpouroverjustenoughcidervinegartocoverthenleaveinthefridgeovernightThefollowingdaydrainreservingthevinegarAddthecastersugartothevinegarandstirtodissolvePourtheliquidbackovertheberriesandchill

vinegarandstirtodissolvePourtheliquidbackovertheberriesandchilluntilneeded

Verylightlybrusha750mlterrineorloaftinwithoilthenlineitwithclingfilmFillitwithwaterthengentlymovetheclingfilmsotherearenobubblesremainingunderneathDiscardthewaterandcarefullydrythelinedterrine

Put250gwaterinasteamerandbringtotheboilPutthewhiteraspberriesinthesteamerbasketcoverandsteamoveralowheatfor45minutesDiscardtheraspberriesndashtheywillhavelostalltheirflavourndashandreservetheraspberry-flavouredliquidthatremainsinthepanYoushouldhavemorethantheoriginal250gbecauseoftheliquidfromtheraspberriesWeighout250gyouwonrsquotneedtheremainingliquid

Steamtheloganberriesinexactlythesamewayweighingout250goftheliquidattheend

Place7gofthegelatineinabowlofice-coldwaterandleaveforabout10minutesuntilsoftMeanwhileaddhalfthefructosetothewhiteraspberryliquidandtheotherhalftotheloganberryliquidHeatboththeliquidsseparatelystirringtodissolvethefructosePourtheloganberryliquidintoacontainerleavetocoolandthenrefrigerateuntilneeded

TakethegelatinefromthewatersqueezingouttheexcessAddthegelatinetothewarmwhiteraspberryliquidandstiruntilfullydissolvedPourthisintothelinedterrinetocreateyourfirstlayerLeaveinthefridgefor2ndash4hoursuntilset

Softenanother7gofthegelatineinice-coldwaterinthesamewayTransfertheloganberryliquidtoasaucepanandwarmthroughoveramediumheatAddthesqueezed-outgelatineandstiruntilfullydissolvedLeavetocoolforafewminutesthentaketheterrineoutofthefridgeandslowlypourtheloganberrylayeroverthesetwhiteraspberrylayerReturntothefridgeandleavetosetagain

Meanwhilesoftenthefinal6ggelatineinabowlofice-coldwaterPuttheyoghurtcreamandsugarintoasaucepanSlitthevanillapodopenlengthwaysandscrapeouttheseedsPuttheseedsandpodintothesaucepanandplaceonalow-mediumheatUsingthebackofaspoonbreakupany

andplaceonalow-mediumheatUsingthebackofaspoonbreakupanyclumpsofvanillaseedssotheyareevenlydistributedStirringregularlyheatuntilthesugarhasdissolvedandthemixtureishottothetouchndashnomoreAnythingabovethisandtheyoghurtislikelytosplitresultinginagrainymouthfeelAddthesqueezed-outgelatinetothewarmcreamandyoghurtmixtureandstiruntilfullydissolvedTaketheterrinefromthefridgeandpourtheyoghurtmixtureovertheloganberryjellyReturntothefridgeuntilset

Ifpreparingthesweetcicelyconfitputthesugarandwineinanovenproofpanwith100mlwaterandbringslowlytotheboilstirringtodissolvethesugarAddtheslicedsweetcicelystalksandplaceinanovenpreheatedto80degC(orthelowestpossiblegasovensetting)Cookfor3ndash4hoursoruntilthesweetcicelyisslightlywoodyDraindiscardingthesugarsyrup

Toserveturntheterrineoutontoaboardcarefullypeelofftheclingfilmandsliceitinto8ndash10portionsLaythemonservingplatesanddotaroundthemaceratedloganberriesndashandthesweetcicelyconfitifyouhavemadeitndashinadecorativefashionMintalsoworkswellasagarnish

FRUCTOSE

FructoseisatypeofsugarthatisfoundnaturallyinbothhoneyandfruitandisdifferenttosucrosethesugarthatweconsumeinteaandcakesonadailybasisSucroseisabondbetweenthecomponentsglucoseandfructoseandisadisaccharideFructoseisamonosaccharideandoneofthesimplestformsofcarbohydratesItisworthnotingthatfructoseisoneandahalftimessweeterthansucroseandisthereforeoftenusedinsweetenersduetothefactthatlessisrequiredBearthisinmindwhenusingfructoseasyouwillneedlesstoachievethesamesweetnessassucroseWhenitcomestofruitypreparationsfructoseisourlsquogo-torsquo

ingredientMatthewandIainswearbyitespeciallyaroundthistimeofyearwhenthefruitarrivesinglutsandinterestingcreationsneedtobeconjuredupandattentivelytestedOnlythenwilltheybeaddedtotheever-changingmenuOnthebasis

thenwilltheybeaddedtotheever-changingmenuOnthebasisthatusinglikewithlikeisalwayspreferablewefindthatusingfructosewithfruitachievesamuchgreaterimpactthancanbeachievedwithsucroseItenhancesthefruitsrsquoinherentflavoursandnoticeablybooststhelsquofruitinessrsquo

GELATINE

GelatineisagreatmeansforsettingliquidsandgivesthelsquoclassicjellyrsquomouthfeelthatweareallsofamiliarwithWell-executedjelliesshouldbedelicateandsoftfarfromrubberyorchewyThelatterdefectisusuallydowntoanexcessofgelatine

HowevertheageofajellywillalsolargelyaffectitsstructureandconsistencyndashdessertslsquostiffenuprsquotheoldertheyareGelatinehasatroublesomehabitofnetworkingandjoiningupwithothernetworksofgelatineThemorethishappensovertimethemorewatertheytrapandthestifferthejellybecomesWeutilisethisphenomenontosticktheseparatelayerstogethercreatingoneuniformterrineLeftfortoolongtheterrinewilleventuallylose

itspleasantmouthfeelItisworthattemptingtodevourtheterrinewithintwodaysndashaneasyfeatonceyouhavetastedit

daggerBerriesformanintegralpartofourfoodheritageandarethequintessentialfruitsoftheBritishsummerTheywereanimportantelementintheVictorianfamilyrsquosfruitbowltheprominentcookerywriterMrsBeetonstatedadamantlyinherBookofHouseholdManagementthatthereislsquonofruitsouniversallyinfavourrsquoTheBritishpopulationenjoyedasurprisingpeakofphysicalhealthduringthemid-Victorianera(fromaround1850to1880)whentherewasatendencytoeatmorefreshfruitvegetablesfishandmeat

ElderflowerSorbetwithFennelSherbetandWildStrawberries

EldergrowsveryquicklyandwillrapidlytakeupspaceneededbyotherhedgerowplantssuchashazelchestnutandbeechLuckilyforustheneighbouringfarmerhasrefrainedfromcuttingbacktheelderandthereareseveraltreesthatgrowinthehedgesoppositeMarkrsquospolytunnelshighuponabankawayfromthefieldbelowWecollectasmanyofthesedelicateperfumedflowerheadsinearlysummeraspossibleWemakeourownsherbetforthissorbetVirtuallyanyspicewithin

reasoncanbeaddedtoicingsugarcitricacidandbicarbonateofsodatocreatethischildhoodconfectioneryWeusefennelwithitsaniseflavoursweetsourandaromaticWildstrawberriesaddthefinishingtouchThesetinymorselsofsweet

muskyaciditypushtheirwayupthroughthegapsintheredbrickpathsinthegardenTheychoosetheshadeofthelowboxhedgesandshadowsoftheherbpatchTheycanbefoundgrowingonheathlandandgrassyvergesandinmanygardensItrsquoswellworthtryingtogetholdofsomeastheytasteinfinitelysuperiortothelargercultivatedvarieties

SERVES4ndash610largeelderflowerheads65mlelderflowercordial50gglucosepowder195gcastersugar

TOSERVE

4ndash6ice-creamcones20ndash30wildstrawberries(ifunavailableusesmallcultivatedstrawberriescutintocubes)

WildFennelSherbet(seehere)

RemoveallbutthesmalleststalksfromtheelderflowerheadsandputtheflowersinabowlPutalltheingredientsexcepttheelderflowersinasaucepanadd690mlwaterandbringtotheboilstirringtodissolvethesugarImmediatelyremovefromtheheatandaddtheelderflowersLeaveto

sugarImmediatelyremovefromtheheatandaddtheelderflowersLeavetoinfusefor15minutesthenstrainthroughafinesieveDiscardtheelderflowersandleavethesyruptocoolTransfertothefridgeandleaveforatleast2hoursbeforechurningThisallowstheproteinspresentinthemixturetohydratefullywhichimprovesthewhippingqualitiesgivingasmoothersorbet

Freezeinanice-creammachineaccordingtothemanufacturerrsquosinstructionsWhenthemixtureisalmostfrozenblitzwithastickblenderfor15ndash30secondsthenreturntothemachineandcontinuetochurnDecantintoanairtightcontainerandfreezeforatleast2hoursbeforeserving

Toservetransferthesorbettothefridgeforabout10minutestosoftenslightlythenscooponeortwoballsofsorbet(orasmanyasyoucanfit)intoeachice-creamconePressthestrawberriesintothesorbetandthendustlavishlywiththesherbet

PineappleWeedJelly

Pineappleweed(Matricariadiscoidea)canbefoundfromMaytoSeptemberandlooksjustlikechamomilebutwithoutthepetalsWhetherornotithasthesamecalmingeffectaschamomileissomethingtobeexploredndashperhapsthisisacalmingandrestorativejellyrecipeItgrowsonwastelandandinplentyofotherplacestooItisoftenresentedbygardenersasitwillcompetewithotherplantsforvaluablespaceandnutrientsandthetaprootswillgripintoanysurfacehowevertoughThisisallthemorereasontofindoutwhosegardenyoumaybeabletopicksomefromwearesuretheywillthankyouforitTheflavourisextraordinaryasitresemblespineapplealmostperfectlyBoththeflowersandleavesareedibleWehavegiventhemeasurementsforthewaterforthejellyingrams

ratherthanmillilitresThisisbecausealthoughmillilitresandgramsareequal(ie100mlweighs100g)inrecipeswhereprecisionisimportantyougetamoreaccurateresultifyouweightheliquidThisiseasytodowithelectronicscalesandinfactwenowweighliquidsasamatterofcourseandrarelyuseameasuringjug

SERVES4220gcastersugar40gpineappleweed13ggelatineleavesCherrySpoom(seehere)orRoastedWhiteChocolateSpoom(seehere)toservePutthesugarinapanwith450gwaterandbringtotheboilstirringtodissolvethesugarRemovefromtheheatandaddthepineappleweedCoverthepanandleavetoinfusefor20minutesStrainthroughmuslinorafinesieve

Soakthegelatineinice-coldwaterforabout10minutesuntilsoftenedRemovefromthewatersqueezingouttheexcessAddthegelatinetothepineappleweedwaterandstiruntilcompletelydissolvedIfthegelatinedoesnotdissolvepourthemixturebackinthepanandplaceoveralowheat

Pourtheliquidintoajellymould(apineapplemouldlooksgoodifyouhaveone)andrefrigerateovernightoruntilset

Servewiththecherryspoomorroastedwhitechocolatespoom

ElderflowerandLavenderMarshmallows

ThelongcountrylaneleadingtoBarleyWoodisgreenandwindingBymid-summerthetreesandhedgesarounditformadenseherbaceoustunnelinpartsAtvariousspotsalongthelanearesoftalmostfurry-lookingelderflowerbusheswaitingtobepickedItrsquosthesamewhenyoustandatthetopgatesoftheWalledGardenand

lookdownthelanethatrunsalongsidethemainorchardHereitisimpossiblenottofeelasenseofcalmandserenityinducedbythedelicatelypungentsmelloflavendergrowingalongtheleft-handwallLikeagroupofplayfulchildrenheadsbobbinginthesunshinethesoftpurpleflowersgreetyoueverymorningwiththeirtranquilscentThesetwoingredientsepitomisesummerattheWalledGardenTheyare

traditionallycelebratedatthesummersolsticeanancientPaganfestivalthatisintendedtomarkthestartofmoreplentifulsuppliesinthegardenItisafestivalofgrowthandlifewhereherbsgatheredthenightbeforethepointatwhichtheywerebelievedtobeattheirmostpowerfularethrownintoabigbonfiretowardoffevilspiritsensuringanotheryearoffertilityinthesurroundinglandSummersolsticeisthereforeanopportunityforustocelebratethegardenatitsmostprosperousandwhatbetterwaytoenjoyitthanbygatheringaroundabonfireandroastingsomemarshmallowsWesometimestoasttheseandsitthemalongsideourchocolatebrownies

(seehere)insteadofthecherryandelderflowersauceToastingmarshmallowsusuallyevokesnostalgicsmilesfromourcustomersTheyarefairlystraightforwardtomakeYouwillneedanelectricwhisk

preferablyafreestandingonefortheamountofwhiskingneededtoachievetherightconsistencybutotherthanthatjustsomepatienceandtheyrsquollbereadybeforeyouknowit

3tbspicingsugar3tbspcornflourrapeseedoilforbrushing40ggelatineleaves750ggranulatedorcastersugar3largeeggwhites

FORELDERFLOWERMARSHMALLOWS

5ndash8largeheadsofelderflowerstalksremoved

FORLAVENDERMARSHMALLOWS

10lavenderspearsinflower1smallredbeetrootfinelygrated(optionalbutrecommendedtomakethemarshmallowspink)

SifttheicingsugarandcornflourintoabowlVerylightlybrusha35cmtimes25cmbakingtraywithrapeseedoilthendustwiththeicingsugarandcornflourShakeanyexcessbackintothebowlandsetaside

Putthegelatineleavesinalargebowlofverycoldwaterandleaveforabout10minutesuntilsoftenedRemovethegelatinefromthewateracoupleofsheetsatatimeandsqueezeoutasmuchexcesswateraspossiblePutallthedrainedsheetsinabowlandpourover185mlhotbutnotboilingwaterStiruntilthegelatinehasfullydissolved

Ifyouaremakingelderflowermarshmallowsaddtheheadsofelderflowertotheliquidthatthegelatinehasbeendissolvedinandleavetoinfusefor10ndash15minutesStraintheliquidthroughafinesieveandcontinuewiththenextstageIfmakinglavendermarshmallowsaddthelavenderandbeetroottothedissolvedliquidandinfusefor10ndash15minutesthenstrain

Putthesugarinalargeheavy-basedpanadd375mlcoldwaterandplaceoveramedium-highheatStiruntilthesugarhasdissolvedPutasugarthermometerinthesyrupandcookthemixturewithoutstirringuntilitregisters122degCRemovefromtheheatandstirinthelavenderorelderflowermixture

PuttheeggwhitesinthebowlofafreestandingelectricmixerandwhiskuntiltheyformstiffpeaksTurnthemixerdowntoalowerspeedandpourinthesugarsyrupinaslowsteadytricklebeatingconstantlyLeavethemixertobeatatamedium-highspeeduntilthemallowmixcoolsandthickensThisusuallytakesabout30minutesitisreadywhenathickribbonisleftonthesurfacewhenthewhiskingattachmentisliftedout

UsingaspatulascoopallthemixintothedustedtrayBesuretoscrapethesidesofthebowlthoroughlysoasnottowasteanyofthisfluffydecadence

sidesofthebowlthoroughlysoasnottowasteanyofthisfluffydecadenceLevelthemixtureandallowtocooltoroomtemperatureCoverwithbakingparchmentandleaveovernighttosetDonotrefrigerate

RemovingthemarshmallowfromthetrayisarguablythehardestpartStartbypeelingthemallowawayfromoneofthenarrowendsofthetrayWhenyougetenoughoffthesidedustinsomeofthereservedcornflourandicingsugarmixthenkeepgentlypeelinganddustinguntilyouhaveagoodcoupleofinchesclearofthetrayAtthispointflipthetrayoverontoaboardandgentlyliftitoffGravityshouldintheorydotherestofthejobIfnotthencontinuepeelinganddustingandturningitontotheboarduntilitcomesloose

Havemorecornflouricingsugarmixreadyandcutthemarshmallowsinto25ndash5cmcubesRolleachmarshmallowinthedustingmixturethoroughlytopreventstickingTheywillkeepstoredinanairtightcontainerforuptoaweek

SpicedGingerBeer

GingerbeerhasbeenbrewedinBritainsincethe1700sThetasteforitspreadacrosstheworldwiththeBritishEmpirebecomingparticularlypopularinAfricaandtheCaribbeanMeanwhilethelsquoBristolglazersquowhichincreasedthestrengthofpotterywasdevelopedlocallyinthe1830sandappliedtoearthenwarecontainersItallowedthisveryBritishtippletobesentfurtherandfurtherafieldThemesmerisingcollectionofphotographsobservationsandfactscontainedinJohnThomsonrsquosVictorianLondonStreetLife(DoverPublicationsInc1994)estimatesthatin1877300000gallonsofgingerbeerweresoldinLondonQuiteoftenitwaspulledthroughthestreetsbyhorsesinacontraptionresemblinganoldpianoanddispensedwithbeerpumphandlesBy1935thereweremorethan3000producersintheUKbutonlyafewremainItreallyisthetasteofBritishsummerPleaseserveinajuginthegardenonatablecoveredwithalinentableclothWehavealsotriedthisrecipewithraspberriesanditwassuperbWeaddedahandfulofraspberrieswiththespicesattheheatingstageandstillputthegingerinmuslinforthefermentationpartItwasaluminousred

MAKESABOUT2LITRES250gcastersugar5ndash8cmpieceoffreshgingerdicedzestandjuiceof1lemon2cloves3juniperberriesfrac12cinnamonstick3blackpeppercorns1tbspGBP(seehere)

Youwillneeda225litrecontainerwithalidplusa25cmsquareofmuslinandapieceofstringfortyingitintoaDickWhittingtonesqueparcelItisimportanttosterilisealltheequipmentincludingthemuslinandstringYoucandothisbypouringboilingwaterovereverything

Putthesugarinapanwithathirdofthegingerplusthelemonzestspicesand250mlwaterBringthismixturetoalightsimmerstirringtodissolve

and250mlwaterBringthismixturetoalightsimmerstirringtodissolvethesugarthenleavetocool

Pour175litresofwaterandthejuiceofthelemonintoyoursterilised2litrecontainer(alargeliddedplasticboxisfine)thelemonwillneutralisethechlorineinthewaterwhichwouldotherwiseaffecttheyeastrsquosproductivityStraininthesugarandwatermixturetietherestofthegingerupinthemuslinwithapieceofstringanddropitinAddtheGBPthencoverandleaveatroomtemperaturefor5daysBesuretoopenthelidbrieflyeverydayinordertoletoutanycarbondioxidethathasbuiltupotherwiseitwillopenofitsownaccord

Strainthemixturethroughafinesieveintoasterilised2litreplasticbottleandputonthetopSavetheGBPandgiveitarinseitwillhavegrown(Ifyoustoreitinthefridgeinasmallsterilecontaineritwillkeepforupto2weeks)After2daysthegingerbeerwillbereadytodrinkalthoughifyoudesireafizzierbrewleaveitforlongerRefrigerationwillhaltanyfurtherfermentation

SummerElder

ThisinitiallysoundsasthoughitmightbeathoroughlysweetaffairbutfearnotThebotanicalsintheginrevelintheirmeetingwiththeblackpepperandraspberrytincturecreatinganalmostsavouryflavourThesorbetweuseisfromMendipMomentswhosepedigreeherdofHolsteincowsgrazesjustoverthehorizonontheSomersetlevelsButthisdrinkwouldworkverywellwithanypre-maderaspberrysorbet

1scoopofMendipMomentsraspberryandelderflowersorbetatroomtemperature

50mlgin(welikeChasegin)25mlelderflowercordialdashofAngosturabittersdashofblackpeppertincture(seeboxbelow)

dashofraspberrytincture(seeboxbelow)3blackpeppercornsfreshlygroundblackpepper

FirstfillatumblerwithicetochillitInamixingglasscombinethesorbetginelderflowercordialbittersandtincturesGiveitastirwithabarspoontobreakupthesorbetbeforeaddingahandfuloficeandplacethetinpartoftheshakerovertheglasstappingwiththepalmofyourhandtosecureAgoodhardshakewillallowtheicetobreakupthesorbetandmakeasmoothtextureddrinkDiscardtheicefromthetumblerandstraintheliquidthroughastrainerandsieveintotheglassFinishwithagenerousgrindofblackpepperandthethreepeppercornsontop

MAKINGTINCTURES

FillajamjaronethirdfullwithyourchoseningredientandcoverwithahighpercentageproofvodkatotwicethedepthoftheingredientsLeavetoinfusefor2weeksandthenstrainintoanothercleanjamjarYouwillbeleftwithanintenseessenceof

yourchoseningredient

RawRhubarbSmash

AsmashissonamedbecausethemintissmashedupduringshakingDuringthemid-nineteenthcenturythesmashbecameasymbolofintemperanceinAmericaandwasafavouritesummerdrinkComparedtoitsolderbrotherthejulepthisdrinkisinthewordsofthecocktailhistorianDavidWondrichlsquoaquickbracerratherthanaslowsipperrsquoBeforethedrinkisshakenwealsomuddletherhubarbWebuildthis

cocktailinajamjarandthenaddcrushediceRawrhubarbhasgoodacidityandweuseitinsteadofthecitrusfruitoftheoriginal

SERVES125mlrhubarbsyrup(seehere)7ndash8cmpieceofrhubarbfinelyslicedapinchofsugar6sprigsofmint50mlbourbonwhiskey

50mlbourbonwhiskeyfinelyslicedrhubarbdustedwithsugartogarnish

PlacethesyruprhubarbandsugarinajamjarandlsquomuddlersquoitbypressingwithapestletoreleasethejuicefromtherhubarbandmixitwiththesugarAddasprigofmintandmuddleagainmoregentlythistimeAddthebourbon2moresprigsofmintandafewicecubesScrewthelidonandshakefor10secondsPackincrushediceand2moremintsprigsuntiltheiceispiledjustabovetherimServeinthejamjargarnishedwithathinsliceofrawrhubarbdustedwithsugarplusagoodsprigofmint

DoubleSloeGinandTonic

WeuseametalVictoriancoffeepottostirchillandservethistippleAfter10goodswirlsclockwisetheoutsidegathersadivinefrostWepourthe

10goodswirlsclockwisetheoutsidegathersadivinefrostWepourthedrinkintoateacupanddeliveritwithapotoficecubesInVictoriantimesservingdrinksinthismannerwasawayofconsumingalcoholintheguiseofafternoonteaThiswasinordernottooffendthebeliefsofthelocalsinfar-flungregionsoftheoldBritishEmpireItisstillageniuswayofdisguisingthoseearly-afternoondrinks

SERVES16raspberries200mltonicwater(weliketheFeverTreebrand)25mlgin(Chaseginisourchoice)25mlsloegin

PuttheraspberriesinaglassreservingonetodropintheteacupAddadropoftonicwaterandlsquomuddlersquountilasmuchjuicehasbeenextractedfromtheraspberriesaspossibleStrainintoasmallteapotandaddtheginsloeginandtherestofthetonicwaterDropin3icecubesandstirwellPourintoacuptoserveanddropintheremainingraspberrytheicecanbeaddedwithtongslikesugarcubes

RecipeList

GoatBaconwithOxTongueNasturtiumsandClarifiedHamBroth

WildMushroomswithSourdoughToastandThymeSticheltonCregravemeFraicircche

WildMushroomandSpeltPressedTerrinewithSpinachandRainbowChard

SwedishKnaumlckebroumldwithCottageCheesePickledBeetrootCarawayBeetrootCrispsandTomThumbLettuce

RoastCrownPrinceSoupwithTandooriSpiceWalnutOilandCrispSageLeaves

Salt-bakedCeleriacPortobelloMushroomandAppleSoupDeep-friedAuberginewithRoseHipSyrup

PearNativeNapeHazelnutCardamomandEwersquosCheeseSaladPreservedDuckLegChorizoButterBeanandConfitTomato

PotStewwithYinYangBeansWoodPigeonBreastswithPersianSpicedBulgarWheat

CucumberAniseedandBlackCabbageChickenMole

VenisonCiderandQuinceStewwithHerbedButterDumplingsFishSoupwithSpicedHeritageTomatoesFennelSeedand

EnglishTruffleOilToastSlow-braisedGoatrsquosLegwithCiderShallotsLentilsandGlazed

CarrotsPheasantKievwithWinterTarragonandStrawberryMyrtle

RareRoastSirloinofBeefwithBordelaiseSauceBlackCabbageandTruffleCauliflower

AlmondPearCardamomandChocolateCakeSeaBuckthornSorbetwithAppleandVanillaPureacuteeToffeeApple

andCaramelLemonBalmBeetrootAppleandCobnutCrumblewithRoastedWhite

ChocolateSpoomSimplesyrupsforsorbetsandspooms

SpoomRoastedWhiteChocolateSpoom

CherrySpoomItalianMeringueLordrsquosLovageAppleFlip

TheOrchardatBarleyWoodSalsifyandOgleShieldGratin

VincentCastellanorsquosVenisonChorizo

THEVALEBELOWTHEgardengraduallyaltersatfirstarippleofmutedcolourthattransformsintoaleafseaofredsandbrownsflecksofcopperandorangeandafaintshimmerofsilverbirchThelarchesstandtallandgreenagainstthisbackdropofcolour

WewatchtheorchardscarefullyastheirfruitcropsintandemCheddarCrossandRibstonPippinleadthewaywhilejack-of-all-tradesMorganSweetfollowsTheciderbarnsmellsjustasitshouldwiththecurativearomasofthesweetspicedapplesTrugsbucketsandanycontainersavailablelinethetimberwallswindfallssetasideTheoakpressperfumedfromseasonsofworkiswoundupasframesandcheeseclothsarefilledwithscrattedapplesThereisarhythmasframeafterframeisstackedlevelledandsecuredbeforethecogsareheavedandtheappletoweriscompressedAtfirstthereisjustatricklethenthejuiceturnstoaflowthatquicklyfillsourcontainersThecolourisgoldenandtheflavoursweetacidiccaramelGlassesarefilledandclinkedsmilesexchangedvarietiesnotedElenaandPhilwilldebateanddiscussthenextblend

Earlyautumnrsquosblood-coloureddamsonsseeoffthelastoftheraspberriesMarkrsquostomatoesbecomeaspicedsoupalongwithfennelandaremetinthebowlbyturmeric-friedlinghorsemackerelandsquidSourdoughbreadistoastedanddrizzledwithEnglishtruffleoilwithflavoursofboskywoodlandandfour-starpetrolFoundbyacaninetrufflehunterinSomersettheseirregularblackobjectstransformasupperForagersdeliverboxesandbasketsoffungiwithtexturesrangingfrompowdertothosethatslipfromyourfingersSomedeliquescebytheeveningRoedeerfindtheirthickwintercoatmutedtoadarkershadeWeclaimabuckortwoandstewsomecutswithciderandquincetobeservedwithplumpbutterdumplingsVinceCastellanocollectstheshouldersandsoontheyhangasbundlesofredchorizoBracesofpheasantsarehungandacoupleofthesered-eyedfirebirdsescapeesfromanearbyshootpeckaroundthegardenThecockisaflashofcolourwhilehispartnerthehenismuch

thegardenThecockisaflashofcolourwhilehispartnerthehenismuchmoresubduedinhersombrebrownfeathers

WoodpigeonsareperchedonthepostssecuringtheraspberriesunwittinglyawaitingameetingwithPersianspicedbulgarwheatThevinehouseisfullofearly-seasonMuscatgrapesThe100-year-oldvinersquoscroponcefilledsilverbowlsinthediningroomofBarleyWoodhouseSimonWillswhogrewupatBarleyWoodtellsusofthepleasureofeatingthissweetfruitduringwartimerationingandofmorningsshootingrabbitswithhismotherrsquosgundogBoyandSpanielwereateamwhenhecrawledsowouldsheAsthehedgesbegintocrophipsandhawssloeginisdebatedintherestaurantandeachcustomerpromisesafinerrecipethanthelast

GoatBaconwithOxTongueNasturtiumsandClarifiedHamBroth

lsquoGoatbaconhellipwhatrsquosthatrsquowehearyouaskMatthewandIaintakethegoatloins(twomusclesthatrunparalleltothespine)anddrycurethemmuchinthesamewaythatordinarybaconismadeTheymixthesaltwithspicessotheresultingbaconisfragrantwithnotesofcuminandfennelthatsitperfectlywiththeflavourofthegoat(seetherecipeonhere)ThetextureisidenticaltotraditionalbaconyettheflavourispleasinglydifferentThisbaconworkswellalongsideoneofourfavouritepiecesofoffaltongueTongueusedtobeverypopularbuthassincefallenoutoffashionandisrarelyseenonrestaurantmenusWethinkthisisashameItischeapeasytocookveryversatileandoneofthemostoverlookedmusclesSeehereforOx

TonguewithCauliflowerGilliflowerandHazelnutsandseehereforcookingtongue

SERVES4

800mlhamhockbroth(seehere)alittlevintagecidervinegarsuchasOstlerrsquosrapeseedoil12slicesofGoatBacon(seehere)cut3ndash5mmthick4eggspoached(seehere)12ndash16small-mediumnasturtiumleaveswashedanddried(ifunavailableusebabyrainbowchardleaves)

4nasturtiumflowersgentlywashedfineseasaltflakyseasaltblackpepper

FORTHETONGUE

1oxtonguebrinedandcooked(seehere)1egglightlybeaten50gdriedbreadcrumbs(seeheretoachievethebestbreadcrumbs)

Freezethebrothin1ndash2tubsovernightthenadayorsobeforeyouplantomakethisdishturnoutthefrozenblocksandwrapthemin2layersofmuslinPlacetheminasievesetoverabowllargeenoughtoholdthethawedbroththenputtheminthefridgeThegelatineimpuritiesandfatwillstaysolidinthemuslinatfridgetemperaturewhilethebrothwillrunclearbelowResisttheurgetosqueezethemuslinitwilldraindryeventuallyThistechniqueyieldsabouthalftheinitialfrozenweightofbrothinfinishedclarifiedbroth

Slicethecookedtongueinto4portionsabout5mmndash1cmthickLightlybrushtheslicesonbothsideswithbeateneggthendiptheminthedriedbreadcrumbstogiveanevencoveringSetaside

PuttheclarifiedhambrothinasaucepanandplaceoveralowheatBringtoasimmerthentasteIfitistooconcentratedaddcoldwateratablespoonatatimeuntilyougetthedesireddilutionSeasonwithapinchoffinesaltand

atimeuntilyougetthedesireddilutionSeasonwithapinchoffinesaltandasmallsplashofcidervinegarWhenyouarehappywiththeseasoningsetthebrothasideinawarmplace

PlaceafryingpanoveramediumheatandwhenitishotaddasplashofrapeseedoilTheoilshouldbegintosmokelightlyifthepanishotenoughAddthetonguefollowedbythebaconandfryfor1ndash2minutespersideuntillightlygoldenRemovefromthepanandplaceonalayerofkitchenpaper

ToserveplaceapoachedeggineachbowlandthenaddthetongueandthebaconSlowlypourinthebrothGarnishwiththenasturtiumleavesandflowersthenaddflakysaltandcrackedpeppertotheeggs

WildMushroomswithSourdoughToastandThymeSticheltonCregravemeFraicircche

ThisissupperforanautumnaldayThesumofallofitspartsandacollectionofflavoursthathavebeenenjoyedtogetherforcenturiesAutumnmeansthatitistimeformushroomsAnumberofforagersdropinwithboxesofthemthroughouttheseasonandwealsotrytogetoutasmuchaswecanndashespeciallyintothewoodsandhillsframedinthewindowsofourglasshousePleasetrytogetholdofasourdoughloafforthetoastWepickoursup

fromMarkrsquosBreadinBedminsterTheyhavetheirownlevainorstarterthattheyusetomaketheirBristolsourdoughThelacticacidinsourdoughproducedbythelactobacillibacteriagivesthisbreaditsuniquetastewhichworkssowellinthissimplemealOurbusinesseshavegrownintandemandMarkNewmanandhisfellowbakershavesimilarvaluestooursForonetheymakealltheirdeliveriesontheirlsquoBreadmobilersquoaheavyironbicyclewithabigboxonthebackThewarmwoodyaromaofthymeisbothbitterandsweetItwasalways

destinedtobepairedwithanassortmentofwildmushroomsJekkaMcVicarourqueenofherbspointsoutthatthymeaidsdigestionandwillhelptobreakdownfatinfoodsndashanothergoodreasontobeliberalwhenpairingitwithcheeseWechoseSticheltonforthisrecipeIthastoastandcaramelflavourswithanunderlyingbutterinesswhileitsblueveinsprovidepiquancyThebluesoftensthecheesealteringitstextureandflavourchangingthecolourfromwhitetosoftcreamThewholetrucklesareathingofbeautyacombinationofwhitecrustthroughtoabrightrustthatisalmostpink

SERVES4

2tbsprapeseedoil300gmixedwildmushroomssuchasslipperyjackpennybunrussulahorsemushroomsheeprsquosfootandpuffballscleanedandslicedinto1cmstrips

leavesfrom4sprigsofthyme25gunsaltedbutter8verythinslicesofsourdoughbreadfineseasalt

fineseasaltflakyseasalt

FORTHETHYMESTICHELTONCREgraveMEFRAIcircCHE

25gSticheltoncheeseroughlychopped75mlcregravemefraicirccheleavesfrom5sprigsofthyme

ForthethymeSticheltoncregravemefraicirccheputalltheingredientsinablenderorfoodprocessorandpulsetoasemi-coarseconsistencySeasonwithflakysalttotasteandsetaside

PlacealargefryingpanoverahighheatandleaveuntilitisveryhotAddtherapeseedoilitshouldbegintosmokeImmediatelyaddthemushroomsandthymeleavesplusadustingoffinesaltandtosstocoatthemevenlywiththeoilLeaveundisturbedforaminuteorsountilthemushroomscoloureversoslightlythentossandcolourontheothersideRemovefromtheheatandaddthebuttertothepanTossuntilithasmeltedandthemushroomsareevenlycoatedthenchecktheseasoning

WhilethemushroomsarecookingputthesourdoughbreadunderahotgrillandtoastturningeveryminuteuntilbothsidesaregoldenbrownThinslicesofbreadwillcurlunderthegrillandtheregularturningpreventsthishappening

RemovethesourdoughfromthegrillandaddacoupleofslicestoeachplateCoverwiththemushroomsseasonwithflakyseasaltandaddaheapedtablespoonoftheSticheltoncregravemefraicircche

daggerFromtheoldEnglishlsquoStichlrsquo(meaninglsquostylersquo)andTun(lsquovillagersquoorlsquohamletrsquo)SticheltonistheresultofacollaborationbetweencheesemakerJoeScheiderandcheesemongerRandolphHodgsonofNealrsquosYardDairyontheWelbeckEstateinNottinghamshireThisbluecheeseismadeusingunpasteurisedorganiccowrsquosmilkandtraditionalanimalrennetThedairyislocatedonthefarmandthecowsgrazejustyardsawayJoeandRandopharefocusedonpromotingarediscoveryinBritainoftherawmilktraditionTheywantedtonametheircheeseStiltonbutwerenotallowedtoundertheProtectedDesignatedOrigin(PDO)schemewhich

doesnotallowanunpasteurisedcheesetobeaddedtoitsranksWethinkSticheltonisanevenbetternameitwasanearlyformofthewordlsquoStiltonrsquorecordedinthetwelfthcenturyWereallyappreciatetheirdesiretomakethebestpossibleproductusingthefinestingredientswithintegrityandtraditionBravo

WILDMUSHROOMS

WearefascinatedbythesefruitingbodiesthatappearinamatterofhoursndashmyceliumnetworksPleaseuseamushroomguidethatisfullyillustratedandofferscomprehensiveinstructionsonidentifyingwhetheramushroomispossiblypoisonousRogerPhillipsrsquoMushrooms(Macmillan2006)isveryuseful

AfewtimeswehavebeenluckyenoughtocookthisrecipewithPennybunrussulahorsemushroomsslipperyjackspuffballsandsheeprsquosfootmushroomsHoweversomeofthesearedifficulttofindandeasilyconfusedwithnon-ediblevarietiesAgoodplacetostartiswithsomecommonvarietiesthatarerelativelyeasytoidentifyOnceyouhavebuiltupagoodknowledgeofthesehaveatentativelookfurtherafield

MushroomslovedampweatherfollowedbysunshinesotrytopickonadrydayBrushoffanydebriswithasmallmushroombrushndashatoothbrushworksatreatbutmakesureyouuseitexclusivelyforthatactivityCheckformaggotsandparasitesbeforecookingThesearesomeofourfavouritevarieties

ChanterellendashCantharelluscibariusTheyhaveasuperbflavourTheyareassociatedwithpinebeechandbirchandsmellofapricotsTheycanbefoundonmossybanksanddampwoodsbetweensummerandlateautumn

ChickenofthewoodsndashLaetiporussulphureusAlongwiththebeefsteakmushroomthisistheonlyotherbracketfunguswortheatingItcanpotentiallyyielduptoakilooffleshandcanbefoundgrowingonoldtreessuchasoakandyewcherrysweetchestnutandwilllowbetweenAprilandautumnTheyellowerthebetter

GiantpuffballndashCalvatiagiganteaThesemustbeacleanmilkywhiteandpredominatelyunblemishedontheiroutsideandwithinTheycanbefoundingrassyfieldsgardenshedgerowsandonwoodedgesbetweenlatesummerandautumn

JewrsquosearndashAuriculariaauricula-judaeThesehaveacolourthatwillbeanywherebetweenapalereddishbrownthroughtodarkThisgelatinous-texturedmushroomcanonlybefoundondeadordyingwoodusuallyelderFinditatanytimeoftheyear

FieldmushroomndashAgaricuscampestrisThisoneresemblesthemushroomthatmostofuswillhavehadfromtheshopsItiseasytofindandgrowsonpastureandgrasslandbetweenlatesummerandautumnBewaryoftheyellowstainerwhichcanbeconfusedwiththefieldmushroomitscaphasyellowstreaksandsmellsofcarbolicacidwhencut

MorelndashMorchellaesculentaAjoytodiscoverandeatItresemblesanirregularhoneycombCanbefoundonopenscrubwoodlandchalkysoilashelmorappleduringlateSpringoftenaroundStGeorgesrsquosday

OystermushroomndashPleurotusostreatusThesearecolouredsilver-greytoafawnybeigeFindthemontrunksorbranchesofdeadordyingdeciduoustreessuchasbeechallyeararound

ParasolandshaggyparasolndashLepiotaproceraandLepiotarhacodesTheselooklikeanumbrellawithanippleonthetopThestemandcaparescalyandtherewillbearingonthestemwherethecapwasattachedFindtheminopenwoodsandpasturesbetweensummerandautumn

PennybunndashBoletusedulisItrsquosanabsolutewinifyoudiscoverthisoneThismushroomhasnogillsbuttubeslikeaspongeinsteadFinditalongedgesof

woodsandingrassyclearingsBewareofDevilrsquosBoletendashBoletussatanaswhichhasawhitegreycapwithorangesporesandaflushofredonthestemasitwillcauseanupsetstomach

StGeorgersquosmushroomndashCalocybegambosaAfavouriteeatenrawatTheEthicurean(seehere)itcanbefoundongrassyclearingsroadsidesandontheedgesofwoodsAgoodonetoidentifysinceitisspecifictoearlyMayoftenappearingaweekafterthe23rdApril

WildMushroomandSpeltPressedTerrinewithSpinachandRainbowChard

TheridgeoppositeTheEthicureaniscalledBlackDownThehighesthillin

TheridgeoppositeTheEthicureaniscalledBlackDownThehighesthillintheMendipsitiscoveredinamixtureofheatherandbrackenInitsshadowsarepatchesofdeciduouswoodlandwherewehavefoundwoodblewitmushroomswiththeexpertguidanceofourfriendandforagerAdrianBootsWoodblewitsgrowinleaflitterandrangeincolourfromlilactoarichpurple-pinkwithanintenselyperfumedaromaTheyhavebeensoldinEnglishmarketssincethethirteenthcenturyWeloveusingtheminthisterrinebutitisimportanttohavethemexpertlyidentifiedassomeharmfulvarietiescanbemistakenforthemAlwayscookthemthoroughlyastheyshouldnotbeeatenrawWildmushroomsvarydramaticallyinflavourdependingonthevariety

AnygoodediblewildmushroomsyoucangetyourhandsonwillworkperfectlywellhereIfyouareinterestinginpickingyourownbookyourselfontoagoodforagingcoursendashtheyareruninmostpartsofthecountryOtherwiseboughtbuttonmushroomsorbrownmushroomscanbeusedinthisrecipeandyouwillstillhaveadelectableterrineWewraptheterrineinamixtureofspinachandchardforaspectacular

appearanceandlayeritwiththecolourfulstalksofrainbowchardItsearthinessiscompletelyathomewiththemushroomsandspeltPearledspelthasafirmtextureandgentlenuttyflavourAlthoughitisatypeofwheatsomepeoplewithwheatintolerancesfinditeasiertodigestIthasbeeneateninBritainforthousandsofyearsandwasfavouredbytheRomansOurscomesfromSharphamParkclosetoGlastonburyinSomersetTheyareagreatoutfitandtrueproponentsofamoresustainablewayoffarming

SERVES6ndash8

300gpearledspeltasprigofrosemary2sprigsofthyme400mlvegetablestock(seehere)200gmixedspinachandrainbowchardpreferablywithlargeleaves50gsaltedbutter300gwildmushroomssuchasbluefoothedgehogfungussheeprsquosfootpennybunrussulaorslipperyjacks(orbuttonorbrownmushrooms)cutintoslices1cmthick

3mediumeggyolks1frac12tspDijonmustard

1frac12tspDijonmustard1frac12tspvintagecidervinegarsuchasOstlerrsquosrapeseedoilforbrushingfineseasalt

Putthespeltintoasaucepanwiththerosemaryandthymeaddthevegetablestockand550mlwaterandbringtotheboilCoverthepanreducetheheatandcookfor1ndash1frac12hoursuntilthespeltistenderbutstillretainsalittlebiteAlltheliquidshouldbeabsorbed

Meanwhileputalargepanofwaterontoboiladding3tablespoonsofsaltFillapanorbowlwithcoldwaterandiceandsetasideSeparatethestalksfromtheleavesofthespinachandchardkeepingtheleaveswholeChopthestalksinto3cmpiecesAddtheleavestotheboilingwaterandblanchfor30ndash45secondsthenremovewithaslottedspoonandtransferstraighttotheicebathThiswillhelpretainthevibrantcolourStirtheleavestochillthemquicklyOncetheyarethoroughlycoldremovethemacoupleatatimeandsqueezeasmuchmoisturefromthemaspossibleNextblanchthestalksintherapidlyboilingwaterfor1ndash1frac12minutesTransferthemtotheicebathandstirtochillrapidlythendrainandpatdrywithateatowelorkitchenpaperSeparatethelargespinachandchardleavesfromthesmallonesthenplacealltheleavesandstalksinthefridgeuntilrequired

Meltthebutterinasaucepanaddthemushroomsandapinchofsaltandcookoveramediumheatfor5ndash10minutesuntilthemushroomshavesoftenedSetasideretaininganyliquid

OncethespeltisdonepickouttheherbsanddiscardPutthespeltandmushroomsintoablenderorfoodprocessoraddtheeggyolksmustardvinegarandsomesaltandpulseuntilthoroughlymixedChecktheseasoningandaddmoresaltifrequiredContinuetopulseuntilthemixturehasafairlycoarsetextureWholegrainsofspeltmaystillbepresentbutthemajoritywillhavebeenbrokendownintoapasteChecktheseasoningoncemore

Lightlybrushan800gterrineorloaftinwithrapeseedoilandlineitwithalargepieceofclingfilmGentlycoaxtheclingfilmintothecornersoftheterrinemakingsurenottotearitthenfilltheterrinewithwaterAtthispointyouwillseeanyairbubblesbeneaththeclingfilmManipulatethe

pointyouwillseeanyairbubblesbeneaththeclingfilmManipulatetheclingfilmtoremovethemthenpouroutthewaterandcarefullydrytheinsideHavethelargerspinachandchardleavesatthereadyDrapethemdownonesideoftheterrinemakingsuretherearenogapssothetipofeachleafreachesthecentreofthebaseofthedishAnyexcessleafshouldoverhangtheedgeoftheterrineRepeatontheothersideandtheendsIfanyterrineisvisiblethroughtheleavesthenpatchtheseareasusingsmallerleavesuntilitiscompletelycovered

Decanthalfthespeltandmushroommixtureintotheterrineandpressdownuntilitiscompletelylevelandfillingall4cornersLayerthespinachandchardstalkslengthwaysendtoendontopofthespeltmixsothattheycompletelycoveritAddasecondlayerofstalksofdifferentcoloursifyouwishCoverthestalkswiththeremainingspeltmixsoitreachesthetopoftheterrineLayersomesmallerspinachorchardleavesoveritthenfoldovertheoverhangingleavessothatthespeltmixiscompletelywrappedinthespinachandchardleaves

Placeinthefridgeandleaveforatleast2hoursTurntheterrineoutpeelofftheclingfilmandthencutintoslicesandputthemonservingplatesCoverwithclingfilmandleavetocometoroomtemperaturefor30minutesbeforeservingItrsquosgreatwithbreadchutneyandafewsaladleaves

daggerSpinachwasonlyintroducedintoEnglandaroundthe1500spriorreferencestothisleafwouldhavementionedplantssuchaschicoryoracheandGoodKingHenry(Chenopodiumbonus-henricus)WehaveusedthelatteralotinourkitchenItcanbefoundalongroadsidesandoncultivatedlandWithtriangularorspear-shapedleavesitgrowsyear-roundandmakesagreatsubstituteforspinach

SwedishKnaumlckebroumldwithCottageCheesePickledBeetrootCarawayBeetrootCrispsandTomThumbLettuce

AutumnsignalsthestartofthegameseasonanditiseasytoeatnothingbutmeatatthistimeofwonderfulglutsThissaladisourwayofredressingthebalanceandofferingafreshstartertowhatmightbeameatyautumnalfeastWeuseLongleyrsquoscottagecheesewhichwefindfarsuperiortoallthe

otherswehavetriedItscleanlacticfreshnessworksparticularlywellwiththesweetnessofthebeetrootThespicesareheatedinadrypantohelpreleasetheiressentialoilsThis

makesthemmorepungentandwithgreaterdepthasifsomethingwithinthemhadcometolifeAsthearomafillstheairitisagreattimetothinkaboutwhatcharacteraspicehasSomewillshowmentholtonesotherswillberesinouscitrusgrassybitterWhenyoubreakdownthetasteintoseparatecomponentsitiseasytodecidewheretheymightbeusefulinrelationtootheringredientsCuminhasanearthyflavoursimilartothatofbeetrootCitruswillalsocomethroughmimickinglemonpeelwhichisanidealpairingwithbeetsCarawayisincludedheretoofferasweetspiceedgecomplementingthelightsournessintheryecrispbreadsItalsohasanisetoneswhichweheightenwiththeadditionoffennelseed

SERVES4

1tspcuminseeds1tspcarawayseeds2TomThumblettucesorotherroundsoftbutterheadlettuces225gcottagecheesepreferablyLongleyFarm4tbspPickledBeetroot(seehere)seasalt

FORTHEBEETROOTCRISPS

2Chioggiabeetroot(ifyoucanrsquotgetthemuseordinarybeetroot)icingsugarfordusting

FORTHEKNAumlCKEBROumlD

240mlmilk

240mlmilk45ghoneyfrac12sachet(35g)ofdriedactiveyeast270gwholemealflour80gryeflour30gspeltflourfrac12tspfineseasalt1tspcarawayseedstoastedinadryfryingpanandthencrushed1tspfennelseedstoastedinadryfryingpanandthencrushed1tspflakyseasalt

Tomakethebeetrootcrispsfinelyslicethepinkandwhitecandy-stripedbeetsthroughtheirequatorLaytheslicesonawirerackthatwillfitonanovenshelfDustthefinestpossiblelayeroficingsugaroverthemthenturnthemoverandrepeatPlaceinanovensetat50degC(orthelowestpossiblegassetting)andleavefor4ndash6hoursuntilcrunchyandcrisp

MeanwhilemakethebreadHeatthemilkandhoneyto45degC(justabovebodytemperature)SprinkletheyeastintoitandstiracoupleoftimesSetasidefor10minutesanditwillfrothastheyeastisactivated

SiftthefloursintoabowlandaddthefineseasaltandtoastedcrushedseedsPourintheyeastmixtureandstirtomakeadoughTurnitoutontoalightlyflouredsurfaceandkneadfor5minutesuntilsmoothandelasticReturnittothebowlcoverwithatowelandleaveinawarmplacetorisefor1hour

Heattheovento230degCGasMark8KnockbackthedoughbygivingitasmartpercussiveslapthatwillknocktheairfreeSatisfactionforthepacifistFoldthedoughoveracoupleoftimesandrollitbackintoaballthendivideitinto8piecesRollthesebackintoballscoverwithateatowelandleavetorestfor10minutes

Lightlydusttheworksurfacewithryeflourandrolleachballoutuntilitis2ndash3mmthickTransfertobakingsheetslinedwithnon-stickbakingpaperanduseapastrywheeloralargesharpknifetocutthemintolong(ish)rectanglesabout5cmwideSomewillbeshorterthanotherstheendsmight

rectanglesabout5cmwideSomewillbeshorterthanotherstheendsmightnotnecessarilybesquarebuttheflavourissettobebangonPrickthemlightlyalloverwithaforkandfinishwithacoatingofflakyseasaltPlaceintheovenandbakefor10minutesuntillightlybrownedTurnthemoverandcookforafewminutesmoretocolourtheothersideRemovefromtheovenandleavetocoolonawirerackTheywillkeepforaweekinanairtighttinbutgoodlucktryingnottoeatthemwiththecottagecheeseinthefridge

Toastthecuminandcarawayseedsinamedium-hotpanuntilthearomaisheavythentipthemoutontoaplatetocoolCrushthemtogetherwithalittlesaltandsetasideforuseasagarnishSeparatethelettuceleavesandplacetheminicedwaterfor20minutestocrispupDrytheleavesthenservethecrispbreadscottagecheesepickledbeetrootcubesandbeetrootcrispswithalittlepotofthefragrantseasonedcuminandcarawaygarnishingsalt

daggerFromahistoricalperspectiveitislikelythatthefirsteverattemptstomakecheeseresultedinafoodstuffsimilartowhatwenowcallcottagecheeseItisasimplecheesetomakeandonethatcanbeattemptedwithouttheneedforexpensiveorcomplicatedkitchenequipmentThefirstreferencestocottagecheesemakingintheUKdatebackto1831ThemilkwouldbebroughtintothehomeandplacedsomewherewarmwherethenaturalbacteriaincheesewouldproduceenoughacidforthemilktoformInthedayswhenfarmerstransportedmilkbynon-motorisedmeansthemilkwouldbeveryquicklyaffectedInevitablyitwoulddeveloptoomuchacidityparticularlyinwarmweatherCheesewasthereforeasimplebutbrilliantsolutionenablingthepreservationofvastquantitiesofmilkobtainedduringthemilkingseasonCottagecheesewasnotonlyeasytomakebutitwasoftenmadefromleftovermilkthathadalreadystartedtoturn

daggerCarawayisthoughttohavebeenamongthefirstspiceplantscultivatedinEuropeIndeedHaroldMcGeesuggeststhatcarawayhelpedtoshapeworldhistorylsquoancientEuropeanhungerforAsianspiceswasanimportantdrivingforceinthedevelopmentofItalyPortugalSpainHollandandEnglandintomajorseapowersduringtheRenaissancersquo(OnFoodandCooking2004)ThisgivesresonancetothesignificanceofcarawaytoourownlocalareagiventheimportanceofBristolasamainUKseaport

RoastCrownPrinceSoupwithTandooriSpiceWalnutOilandCrispSageLeaves

ThearrivaloftheCrownPrincesquashsignalstheendofautumnForusitisthekingofsquashesThissweetlyflavouredregalfriendisastapleingredientthatwillremainwithusformostofthewintermonthsItsvibrantorangefleshisdelicatelysweetandhasanexcellenttextureforroastingTheviolet-greyskinishardtocutthroughsoourchefsarmthemselveswiththeirbestknivestoreleasethegoldensumptuousnesswithinPerhapsduetoitsshapetheCrownPrinceissometimesreferredtoasapumpkinratherthanasquashBotharemembersoftheCucurbitaceaefamilycloserelativesofcucumberscourgettesandmelonsTheirfleshishighinwatersotheybenefitfromlongcookingwhichbringsouttheirhoneyednuttinessTheadditionofsagetothissoupwasarevelationItaddsanearthiermoremeatytonetothewholeensembleTryityouwillseeasideofsquashthatyoumighthaveneverseenbefore

SERVES4ndash612ndash14kgCrownPrincesquashpeeleddeseededandcutinto25cmcubesrapeseedoil500gonionsfinelysliced250gcarrotsfinelysliced250gcelery(orceleriac)finelysliced150gclarifiedbutter(seebelow)4ndash6smallsageleavesvintagecidervinegarsuchasOstlerrsquos2tbsptandoorispicemixwalnutoilfordrizzlingfineseasalt

Heattheovento180degCGasMark4SpreadthesquashcubesoutonaroastingtrayinasinglelayerLightlycoatwithrapeseedoilandafinescatteringofseasaltRoastfor30ndash45minutesstirringoccasionallyuntiltenderandbeginningtoblackenaroundtheedgesTakeoutoftheovenandsetaside

Heatatablespoonofrapeseedoilinasaucepanaddtheonionscarrotsand

Heatatablespoonofrapeseedoilinasaucepanaddtheonionscarrotsandceleryandcookoveramediumheatfor10ndash15minutesuntilthevegetablesaresoftenedbutnotcolouredAddthesquash1frac12teaspoonsofsaltandenoughwatertocoverBringtoasimmerandcookfor5minutesTransfertoablenderandblitzuntilsmoothAdjusttheconsistencyofthesoupbyaddingmorewaterifnecessaryseasonwithsaltandcidervinegartotasteandblitzoncemore

HeattheclarifiedbutterinasmallsaucepanuntilveryhotbutnotsmokingAddthesageleavesandcookfor1ndash2minutesuntiltheygoadarkshadeofgreenandarecrispDrainonkitchenpaperandkeepinawarmplacePassthesoupthroughafinesieveintoacleanpanandreheatgentlyDecantintoservingbowlsdustwiththetandoorispiceandgarnisheachportionwithacrispsageleafandagenerousdrizzleofwalnutoil

ClarifiedButterMelt250gunsaltedbutterinapanoveralowheatuntilthebutterhasseparatedGentlypourintoatallclearjugandleavetosettleWhenithasformedthreelayers(whitefrothytopclearyellowmiddleandwhitesolids)startskimmingTheaimistokeepasmuchoftheclearmiddlelayeraspossiblewhileremovingallofthemilksolidsUsingasmallladleskimoffthetoplayeranddiscardSlowlypourthebutterfatintoacleansaucepanleavingallthewhitemilksolidsbehind(discardthese)daggerThehistoryofsquashisratherinterestingMostvegetablefoodsleavenoarchaeologicaltracessquashisarareexceptionEvidencesuggeststhatitwasfirstcultivatedinCentralAmericamorethan8000yearsagoItisbelievedthattheEnglishwordforlsquosquashrsquoderivesfromthenativeAmericanwordaskutasquashwhichmeanslsquoeatenraworuncookedrsquoThisisasomewhatsurprisingchoiceofnamegiventhatsquashiscertainlynotatitsbestwheneatenrawItisevidentwhysquashwasastaplefoodbackthenitiseasytogrowhighincarbohydratesanddependablyversatileWhenitwaslatertransportedbytheSpanishconquistadorestoEuropeitwasinitiallyrejectedforbeingtooblandThefruit(foritisafruitratherthanavegetable)waslaterrediscoveredasitbecameknownforstoringwellandprovidingtheenergyrequiredforaharddayrsquosgraftinthecolderEuropeanclimate

Salt-bakedCeleriacPortobelloMushroomandAppleSoup

CeleriacrsquoscloserelationshiptoceleryisthereasonitispossibletodetecthintsofceleryinwhatwouldotherwisebeanuttyearthytastecommontorootvegetablesThisknobblyvegetableisnotverycommonoutsideEuropeWeliketoregarditasahiddengemItsdelicateaniseednotescoupledwithatouchofparsleyareintriguingandneverdisappointingInthisrecipewepairitwithPortobellomushroomstoenhancetheearthinessinherentintheceleriacAppleandceleryareaclassiccombinationandbeingsurroundedbyover70differentvarietiesofapplesattheWalledGardenwecouldnotresistthisadditionWefindthattheapplecomplementsthesoftcitrushintspresentinthisuglyducklingoftherootvegetableworldremarkablywell

SERVES8

125kgceleriac100gcoarseseasalt500gonionsslicedrapeseedoilbutter125gcarrotssliced250gPortobellomushroomssliced500mlwhitechickenstock(seehere)125gBlenheimOrange(orBramley)appleflakyseasaltwhitepepper

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6Peeltheceleriacandcutitinto4ndash6cmchunksItcanbedeterminedtoholditsformsogoeasywithyourhandsaroundtheknifeScatterthecoarsesaltoverabakingtrayandplacetheceleriacchunksontopCoverthetraywithaluminiumfoilsealingitwellaroundtheedgesBakefor30ndash45minutesuntiltheceleriacbeginstosoftenThesaltwillextractsomeofthemoistureandtheflavourwillintensify

Inalargesaucepansweattheonionsinalittlerapeseedoilandbutteruntil

InalargesaucepansweattheonionsinalittlerapeseedoilandbutteruntilsoftenedRemovetheceleriacfromthesaltbrushingawayanythathasstucktoit(thesaltcanbeusedagainforbakingvegetablesinthesamemanner)Addtheceleriaccarrotsmushroomschickenstockand500mlwatertotheonionsandbringtoasimmerCookfor30minutesoruntilthevegetablesarejustsofttothepointofaknife

PeelandgratetheappleLadlethesoupintoablenderfillingitonlyhalffullandblitzuntilsmoothPasstheblendedsoupthroughasieveintoacleanpanreturninganythingtoocoarsetotheremainingunblendedsoupBlendtheremainingsoupaddingthegratedapplethenstrainitintothepanandreheatgentlyTheapplewillremainafreshflavourifyouadditatthispointSeasonwithsaltandcrackedwhitepepperthenserve

Deep-friedAuberginewithRoseHipSyrup

WiththeirtannedskinandMediterraneanlooksyouwouldbeforgivenforthinkingthatauberginesgrowonlyinwarmerclimatesWhilsttheydorequireacertainamountofwarmthandwatertheyareperfectlyabletothriveinBritishsoilinthesummerndashorindoorswhenthetemperaturedropsTheybelongtothesamenightshadefamilyaspotatoesandtomatoesandarenotvegetablesinbotanicaltermsbutenormousberriesThegentlemenofthenightshadefamilytheyarerarelyassertiveInsteadtheyliketoblendwiththeirsurroundingsofferingasmoothdelicateflavourEveniftheirpresencesometimesbordersonthesideoffleshyitisstillwonderfullyunderstatedDespitetheoccasionalhintofbitternesstheyarefartoogoodmanneredforthistobecomeinsultingndashwhichisnottosaythattheyareblandsimplythattheyseektocomplementtheircompanionsratherthanimposeonthemSomewouldcallthisversatilityWefrytheauberginesinthisdishtoemphasisethecreaminessoftheir

fleshThepairingwithrosehipisintendedtoinjectsomeintensityofflavourthesyrupmagnificentlycounteractingtheslightbitternessintheaubergineWewouldrecommendexperimentingwiththeamountyouaddWestronglysuspectthataddinganindecentamountofsyruponthisoccasioncanonlybegoodforthesoulThereisstilllikelytobesomeleftoverItwillkeepforayearinasterilisedjarandcanbeservedwithDuckTerrine(seehere)orRabbitConfit(seehere)andisalsoverygoodwiththebrowniesonhere

SERVES4ndash62aubergines1litrerapeseedoilfordeep-fryingcornflourfordustingseasaltsheeprsquossorrelorcommonsorrelleavestoserve

FORTHEROSEHIPSYRUP

400grosehips375gcastersugar

Cuttheauberginesinto8cm-longchipsroughly5mmthickPlacethemin

Cuttheauberginesinto8cm-longchipsroughly5mmthickPlacetheminalargebowlandsaltlightlyensuringanevencoatingCoverandsetasidefor1hour

PuttherosehipsinafoodprocessorandblitzonfullspeeduntiltheyarecompletelybrokendownTransferthemtoasaucepanadd650mlwaterandbringtotheboilRemovefromtheheatandleavetoinfusefor20minutesTransferthemixturetoasievelinedwith2layersofwetmuslinsetoverabowlLeaveforabout30minutesuntilalltheliquidhasdrainedthroughPourtheliquidintoapanaddthesugarandbringtotheboilstirringtodissolvethesugarBoilfor5minutesoruntilreducedtoasyrupyconsistencythensetasidetocoolalittle

Heattherapeseedoilto170degCinalargedeepsaucepanoradeep-fatfryerWhiletheoilisheatinglightlycoattheaubergineincornflourFryinthehotoilinsmallbatchesforabout2minutesuntilcrispandlightlygoldenRemovefromtheoilusingaslottedspoonanddrainonkitchenpaperKeepwarmwhileyoucontinuethroughtheremainingbatchesensuringtheoilstayscloseto170degC

Arrangetheaubergineonservingplatesdresswiththerosehipsyrupandscatteroverthesheeprsquossorrelleavesifusing

daggerAuberginesarenotinfactaMediterraneanvegetabletheyoriginatedinIndiaandareknowntohavebeenpartoftheChinesedietfromasearlyasthefifthcenturyWehavetheArabstothankfortheintroductionofauberginesintoEuropehavingbeenbroughttoSicilyintheeleventhcenturyFoodwriterssuchasElizabethDavidplayedalargepartinintroducingthemtotheUKinthemid-1950s

PearNativeNapeHazelnutCardamomandEwersquosCheeseSalad

AutumnoffersusalotofpearvarietiesintheWalledGardenComiceandAnjoucanbeseenfromthewest-facingwindowsoftheglasshousewhilegrowingontheothersideofthewallintheorchardnearourbelovedquincetreeisalesser-knownvarietyBeurredrsquoAvalonIthasfirmwhitejuicyfleshwithaninitialsweetnessthatendsslightlysourItisspecifictoSomersetanditsnameisrootedinthemythologyofGlastonburyandlegendsofKingArthurFirstfoundintheareaaroundGlastonburyToritwasfinallyrecordedafewyearslaterin1842DuringthethirteenthcenturythenamesofAvalonandGlastonburybegantooverlapandstoriesweretoldofKingArthurdyingontheislandofAvalonThisislandhasalsobeenassociatedinCeltichistorywithapplesAllofthesethreadsofmythhistoryandnamingoffruithavebecomewovenintooneanotherThispearhasanequalflavourpartnerinFosseWayFleececheeseAhard

ewersquoscheesewithaclosesmooth-bodiedtextureandagentlenuttinessitismadebyPhilipRainbowandAnitaRobinsonoftheSomersetCheeseCompanyYoucanmaturethischeesetointensifyitsflavourwrapitinnon-stickbakingpaperandstoreinthesaladdrawerofthefridgeThekeyistokeepitinaplacewherethereislittleaircirculationsoitdoesnrsquotdryoutCheckiteveryfewdaysandwipeawayanymouldthatbuildsupNativeNapeisanair-curedhammadebyNativeBreedswhichproduces

someofthefinestcharcuteriewehavecomeacrossItisrunbyGrahamandRuthWaddingtonwhosourcenativeandrare-breedanimalsfromsmallfarmsinGloucestershiretomaketheiraward-winningproductsWedressthesaladwithcardamomandtruffledhoneyfromaBritish

companycalledTruffleHunter

SERVES4

200gNativeNapecuredham(orothergoodair-curedham)200gagedFosseWayFleececheese(orotheragedewersquoscheese)cutintoshavings

1largepearpreferablyBeurredrsquoAvaloncoredandslicedwaferthinonamandoline

40ghazelnutsroughlycrushed

40ghazelnutsroughlycrushed

FORTHEDRESSING

4tbspvintagecidervinegarsuchasOstlerrsquos2tspDijonmustard1tspgroundcardamom1tbsptruffledhoneyfrac14tspxanthangum(optionalbutrecommended)frac12tspfineseasalt100mlrapeseedoil

Tomakethedressingputalltheingredientsexcepttheoilinablenderandblitzfor30secondsSlowlypourintheoilwhiletheblenderisrunningasyouwouldformayonnaiseOncealltheoilhasbeenincorporatedblitzfor1minuteIfyouaremakingthisinadvancedecantintoasuitablebottleShakewellbeforeusing

PuttingthesaladtogethercouldnrsquotbeeasierDecorativelyarrangethehamsliceson4servingplatesandarrangetheshavedewersquoscheeseamongstthemAddtheslicesofpearlightlydresswiththedressingandscatterthecrushedhazelnutsoverthetop

PreservedDuckLegChorizoButterBeanandConfitTomatoPotStewwithYinYangBeans

InspiredbytheFrenchcassouletthispotstewisamixtureofallourfavouritethingsInsteadofharicotsweusebutterbeansfortheirfluffytextureandmildmineralflavourWealsoaddchorizomakingthissimilartotheSpanishstewsyouwouldfindinAsturiasMadebyVinceCastellanosourchorizoissublimewiththetomatoesandbeansWeserveourpotstewwithconfitducklegsalsoacomponentofthehallowedcassouletWetreatthetomatoesinthisrecipeinasimilarmannerroastingthemslowlyinalightcoatingofrapeseedoilwithplentyofseasoningWeareveryfondofthismethodofpreservinganditmaywellbecomeoneofyourfavouritestooTheyinyangorcaorcalypsobeanisaMexicanheirloomvarietythought

tobeover300yearsoldthatispassedaroundcarefullybygardenerswithawarningtotakecareofitandhelppreventitsdemiseItsdrought-resistantgrowingqualitiesshowwhyitishighlyvaluedconsistentlycroppingyearonyearServethestewwithanauthenticsourdoughloafndashitsdrytexturewillbe

perfectformoppingupthejuicesndashandabottleofPerryrsquosTremlettciderYouwillunderstandwhywerecommendthisciderthemomentaftertheheadyfarmsilagetastepassesandoddlyyouwanttodrinkthewholebottleinoneContraryforcesareinterconnectedandinterdependentinthenaturalworldaccordingtotheConceptofyinandyangandthiscidercertainlyembodiesthat

SERVES4

200gceleriac200gonionsrapeseedoil4garlicclovesfinelychopped4cookingchorizosausages300gbutterbeanssoakedfor24hoursin2changesofwaterthendrained500mlhamhockbroth(seehere)orwhitechickenstock(seehere)300mlcider

1teaspoonpar-cel(seehere)or1tbspchoppedceleryleaf4ConfitDuckLegs(seehere)100gyinyangbeans(ifunavailableusebroadbeansfreshpeasorsugarsnapscookedinboilingwaterfor1minutethendrained)

100gConfitTomatoes(seehere)cidervinegarseasalt

Heattheovento160degCGasMark3Peeltheceleriacandcutitinto2cmchunksChoptheonionstoroughlythesamesizeHeatalittlerapeseedoilinalargecasseroleaddtheceleriaconionsandgarlicandcookgentlyuntilsoftenedAddthechorizosausagesbutterbeanshamhockbrothciderandparcelBringtotheboilthenplacetheducklegsonthesurfaceCoverthecasseroletransfertotheovenandbakefor1frac34hoursAddtheyinyangbeansandthetomatoesandbakefor15minuteslongeroruntilthebeansaretenderSeasonwithsaltandcidervinegartotaste

daggerAcasserolemeanslsquoalargepotrsquotoustodayandformanyofusthatconstitutesacast-ironLeCreusetinheritedfromourparentsseasonedandcaredforWithinthispreciouspotmeatvegetablesandliquidareslowlycookedwiththelidonuntileverythingistenderandcaramelisedSetuponthetableitisservedstraighttotheplateeveryonefightingoverthecrunchyburntedgesElizaActonandMrsBeetonofferedrecipesforcasserolesveryunlikethekindwemaketodayincludingcuriousaffairsofricecrushedtoapasteandsmoothedtotheoutsideofthepan

WoodPigeonBreastswithPersianSpicedBulgarWheatCucumberAniseedandBlackCabbage

AtBarleyWoodthepigeonsarequitehappygrazingthecropscultivatedbythelocalfarmerandMarkthegardenerintheWringtonValeInautumntheyalsoenjoychestnutsandacornsandwheneveryoudisturbapairtheyclatterupwardstakingoffintothewindFromtheglasshouseyouseethemriseintothesouthwesterlytowardsCrookPeakWelovepigeonmeatCookedrareitisirresistiblewitharichredhue

thatistheresultofthisbirdrsquosabilitytotravelvastdistanceswithoutresting

WeserveitwithbulgarwheatseasonedwithourownspiceblendInIranthespicemixwouldbecalledadviehamixtureofspiceschosenfortheiruseinaparticulardishwithinfinitecombinationsTheancientSilkRoutetravelledthoughthenorthofIranandleftitsculinarylegacyCooksintheuplandsandthenorthwesternareasoftenincorporatethedelicatefragranceofdriedrosepetalsintotheiradviehWehavecombinedallspiceturmericcinnamonblackpeppersaffronraisinsandpistachiostomakeablendthatcomplementspigeonperfectlyWeservethisdishwithcrispblackcabbage(cavolonero)flash-friedin

rapeseedoilandcidervinegarwithapinchofcuminItiswithoutdoubtourfavouritewayofservingthisbrassicaFinallywegarnishthedishwithcucumberandanisebuttermilkTraditionallymilkwouldhavebeenleftovernighttoseparatesocreamcouldbechurnedintobutterWhatremainedwasthebuttermilkThickerthanmilkandthinnerthancreamithasasourtangthatisjustwonderfulwiththesweetcucumberandtherichspiceoftherestofthedishIfyoucannotfindbuttermilkthensouredcreamwillworkverywelltooJaneGrigsonwroteinEnglishFood(Macmillan1974)lsquoNocookery

belongsexclusivelytoitscountryoritsregionCooksborrowndashalwayshaveborrowedndashandadaptthroughthecenturiesrsquoWecertainlyhave

SERVES4100mlbuttermilkorGreek-styleyoghurtalittlerapeseedoil8woodpigeonbreastsskinned200gblackcabbage(cavolonero)stalksremovedapinchofgroundcumin1tbspcidervinegarflakyseasalt

FORTHESWEETPICKLEDCUCUMBER

1smallcucumbercutinto1cmdicefineseasaltcidervinegarcastersugar1tspaniseed

1tspaniseed

FORTHEPERSIANSPICEDBULGARWHEAT

300gbulgarwheat2tspsalt1frac12tbspgroundallspice1frac12tbspgroundcinnamon1tspgroundturmeric1tspgroundblackpepper6saffronstamens20graisins50gshelledroastedpistachionuts

Forthepickledcucumberweighthecucumbercubesthenlightlysaltthemandleavetodrainfor1hour

MeasureoutthesameweightofvinegarasthecucumberthendothesamewiththecastersugarPutthevinegarandsugarinasaucepanaddtheaniseedandbringtotheboilstirringtodissolvethesugarRemovefromtheheatandleavetocoolRinseanyresidualsaltfromthecucumberandmixitwiththevinegarandsugarsolutionStoreinthefridge(youwonrsquotneeditallforthisrecipebuttheremainderwillkeepfor4weeksandcanbeusedasasaladgarnishorasanaccompanimenttoaburger)Combine50gofthepickledcucumberwiththebuttermilkstirwellandrefrigeratetillneeded

Putalltheingredientsforthebulgarwheatinasaucepanadd600mlwaterandstiruntilcombinedPlaceoveramediumheatcoverandbringtotheboilReducetheheattoitslowestsettingandcookforabout30minutesoruntilthewheathasabsorbedalltheliquidStirtocheckithasnotcaughtonthebottomofthepanKeepwarmwhileyoucookthepigeonHeattheovento200degCGasMark6andputabakingsheetinittoheatupPlaceaheavy-basedfryingpanoverahighheatuntilitisreallyhotSplashadropofrapeseedoilontoeachpigeonbreastandrubitoveritDustlightlywithflakyseasaltTakethebakingsheetoutoftheovenLay4ofthepigeonbreastsinthefryingpanandcookfornolongerthan30secondspersideuntillightlybrownedPlacethemonthebakingsheetCleanthepanbrieflywithawadofkitchenpaperandrepeatwiththe4remainingbreastsPut

withawadofkitchenpaperandrepeatwiththe4remainingbreastsPutthemintheovenandcookfor2frac12minutesforpinkandperfectlycookedor3minutesformediumTransferthemtoaboardtorestwhileyoucooktheblackcabbage

HeatalittlerapeseedoilinafryingpanaddthecabbagecuminandalittlesaltandfryuntiljustheatedthroughAddthecidervinegarthesteamfromthevinegarwillcookthecabbageinafewsecondsOncetheliquidhasevaporatedtipthecontentsintoawarmservingdish

SlicethepigeonbreastsandserveaccompaniedbythecabbageandbulgarwheatalongwithaspoonfulofthebuttermilkdressingWarnyourfellowdinerstobemindfulofanyleadshotthatmaybehiddeninthebreasts

daggerHistoricallyeatenbythearistocracyandnotcommonersupuntiltheseventeenthcenturyonlythelordofthemanorwaspermittedtobuildadovecoteThesestructureswereoftenimpressiveandmanyresembleourciderbarnwhichisofroundNormandesignThedovemanurewouldhavebeenusedasfertilisernotanapproachthatiscommonlypractisedtoday

ChickenMole

Theintricaciesofmole(pronouncedlsquomo-layrsquo)werenotfullyunderstoodbyusuntilMatthewandPaucirclacamebackfromavisittoPaucirclarsquoslargeboisterousfamilyinMexicoItwasamemorableexperienceinwhichtheyhadeatensomeformofchilliateverysinglemealBreakfastwasnotsparedfromthisjoyfulandsometimespainfulchillimarathonItwasinfactthemostimportantmealofthedaythechoiceofchillibeingparamountForMexicanschilliisasimportantassaltandpepperItisanessentialmeansofseasoningandlackofchilliinamealisfrowneduponunlessyouareaveryyoungchildpracticallyababyItwasblissCapsaicinisthechemicalfoundinchilliesthatmakesthemspicyItis

believedtostimulatetheproductionofendorphinsinthebraincausingsomepeopletofeelasenseofeuphoriawheneatingspicyfoodswhichcanbecomemildlyaddictiveForMatthewandPaucirclaitwascertainlyalotoffuntopushtheendorphinboundariesthroughtheconsumptionofendlesschilliestimeandtimeagainTheirwithdrawalsymptomsstartedbecomingapparentthemomenttheysteppedofftheplaneandwerefacedwithanoverlysweetbreakfastcerealSobackinTheEthicureankitchenaplanwassetinmotiontoattempttocrackthequintessentialMexicanchillichocolatedishwithasmanyBritishingredientsaspossibleThewordlsquomolersquocomesfromthepre-hispanicNahuatlmeaninglsquosaucersquoIt

isunlikelythattheAztecsaddedanychocolatetotheirmolesauceoriginallyndashitwassimplyacombinationofchilliesWithtimeeachregioninMexicodevelopeditsownmoleandtherearenowamultitudeofcolourfulversionsrangingfromredtogreenandevenapinkonefromthetownofTaxcoTheMexicanestateofOaxacaalonehassevendifferentversionsofmolePaucirclarsquosgrandmothertookthelaborioustaskofcookingmolevery

seriouslyHercollectionofspicesstoodinjarsonthekitchenshelvesreadytobecalledintoactionTheaimwastomakeathickshimmerysauceandyouknewitwasreadythemomentthespoonwasabletostandupinitonitsownEpazoteisahighlypopularherbinMexicancookingManypeople

considerittobeaweedsoitisveryeasytogrowevenintheUKYoushouldbeabletobuyseedsonlinebutifyouprefernottogrowititispossibletobuyitasadriedherbtooAlternativelyyoucansubstitutewintersavory

savoryItishighlylikelythatyouwonrsquotbeabletogetthechillieslistedinthis

recipeatyourlocalsupermarketDonotbeputoffbythisTheyarewellworthtrackingdownandasimplesearchonlinewillrevealseveralsuppliersHavingthemdeliveredtoyourdoorwillsaveyouatriptotheshopsMoleistraditionallyservedwithturkeyorchickenThebrinefor

seasoningthechickenhastobemadeinadvanceasitneedstobechilledItwillkeepindefinitelyinthefridgesomakeitatyourleisure

SERVES8

2free-rangechickensfrac12garlicheadrapeseedoil8mulatochillies8guajillochillies4anchochilliesadashofcidervinegar1kgtomatoes300gonionschopped4slicesofstalebreadcutintosmallcubes150gdriedcobnutsorhazelnutsfinelygroundinafoodprocessor150gunsaltedpeanutsfinelygroundinafoodprocessor150graisins1tspgroundallspicefrac12tspgroundclovesfrac12tspgroundcumin1tbspdriedepazote(or2tbspfreshepazote)2litresbrownchickenstock(seehere)1tbspsalt150gdarkchocolatewith75ndash80percentcocoasolids50gmuscovadosugar

FORTHE8PERCENTBRINE

80gsalt80gdarkmuscovadosugar

80gdarkmuscovadosugar1tbspdriedepazote(or2tbspfreshepazote)1bayleaf

TOFINISH

16ndash24corntortillas4tbspsesameseedsfriedinadryfryingpanuntillightlycoloured4tbspcoarselychoppedcoriander

Putallthebrineingredientsinapanwith1litreofwaterandbringtotheboilLeavetocooltoroomtemperaturethenchill

RemovetheskinfromthechickensandsetasideCutthebreastsandlegsfromthechickensthendividethelegsintodrumsticksandthighs(keepthecarcassesforstockseehere)Placethethighsdrumsticksandbreastsinthebrineandleavefor2hours

MeanwhilemakethesauceHeattheovento180degCGasMark4Wrapthegarlicinfoilwithasplashofrapeseedoilandbakefor20minutesLeavetocoolandthensqueezeouttheroastedpulpBreakopenthedriedchilliesandremovetheseedsRehydratethechilliesbyplacingtheminabowlofhotwaterwithadashofvinegarandleavingtocoolDrainandchopfinelytryingnottostainyourfingersasthecapsaicinwillremain

Scoreeachtomatowithacrossonthebaseputtheminapanofsimmeringwaterfor2minutesthendrainandpeelofftheloosenedskinsChopthetomatoesroughlykeepingallthejuiceandseedsseparatelyPourtheseedsandjuicethroughafinesieveintoabowlreservingthejuice

Dividethechickenskinbetween2hotfryingpansandcookuntilitisbrownandthefathasbeenreleasedDiscardtheskinbutkeepthefatinthepansAddtheonionsbreadnutsandraisinstoonepanandthetomatoesandtheirjuicechilliesspicesandepazotetotheotherOncetheonionsarebeginningtocolourtransferthemixturetoalargesaucepanandaddthechickenstockLetthetomatoescontinuetocookuntiltheyarebrokendownaddingasplashofwaterifthemixturestartstolookdryTransferthetomatoestothesaucepanalongwiththesaltAddthechocolateroastgarlicandsugarstirthensimmerwiththelidofffor45minutesoruntil

andsugarstirthensimmerwiththelidofffor45minutesoruntilthickenedstirringregularly

Meanwhilepoachthebrinedchickeninalargepanofbarelysimmeringwaterfor35minutesThewatershouldhardlybemovingresultinginsucculentpaleandmoistchickenWarmthetortillasPuttheminabasketandcoverwithadamphotteatoweltoretaintheheatandkeepthempliableStripthechickenmeatofftheboneandserveonthetortillastoppedwithlashingsofmolethenscatteroverthetoastedsesameandcoriander

VenisonCiderandQuinceStewwithHerbedButterDumplings

AsthecropsareharvestedthestubbledfieldsspelltheendoffieldcoverfortheroedeerSoontheleaveswillbegintocolouranddropmakingitmoredifficultforthemtohidefromthestalkerTheruthasfinishedandbucksnolongerfixatedonmatingarealittletheworseforwearandlackinginenergyFamilygroupsbegintoformastheterritorialactivityoflatesummersubsidesTheyhavespentthepreviousmonthsfatteningthemselvesforthecomingwinterandasthefarmersmovethecattlefromthepasturesaroundBarleyWooditseemsagoodtimetobringhomearoebuckForstewingweusetheneckorshoulderndashdonrsquotcombinethemasthecookingtimewillvaryTheneckcontainsafairamountofconnectivetissuewhichwillneed

varyTheneckcontainsafairamountofconnectivetissuewhichwillneedslowcookingtotenderiseitThisisarecipewemakebeforeadayrsquospickingintheorchardndashonefora

weekendwhenyoursquoretidyingthegardenbeforewinterorjustrelaxingCookingthevenisoninciderisidealastheaciditydoesmarvellousthingsAstewneedsanighttocooldownslowlysothatthemeatreabsorbsitsjuicesbecomingmoresucculentNostewcanpossiblybeservedwithoutdumplingsWersquoveoftencaught

JackeatingthemallontheirownwhenwersquovemadetoomanyTheyareverywelcomeduringautumnwhenweneedatouchmorestodgeElizaActonHannahGlasseandConstanceSprygivenumerousrecipesforSuffolkandNorfolkdumplingsandthemainstyleseemstobeforalsquoharddumplingrsquothatcontainsneithersuetnorbutterWemakeourfluffydumplingswithflourbutterandeggsandtheyresemblethoseeatenincentralEuropeChoppedfreshherbsaddfragrance

SERVES6ndash8

200ggoosefat12kgvenisonneckorshouldercutinto3ndash4cmchunks900gredonions450gcarrots225gceleriac2quinces600mlbeefstock(seehere)300mlcider1bayleaf8sprigsofthyme1tbspjuniperberries1tbspdriedpineappleweed(optional)togarnishcidervinegarseasaltandblackpepper

FORTHEHERBEDBUTTERDUMPLINGS

390gself-raisingflour3eggs105gsaltedbutterdiced

105gsaltedbutterdiced1frac12tspsalt2tbspchoppedmixedherbssuchassagethymeparsleyandmintafewtbspdoublecreamblackpepper

Heatsomeofthegoosefatinalargeheavy-basedfryingpanandfrythepiecesofvenisoninsmallbatchesuntilcolouredallovertransferringthemtoalargecasseroleastheyaredoneCuttheonionscarrotsandceleriacintolargechunksndashtheyshouldbetoobigtoeatinonemouthfulastheyaregoingtospendalongtimeinthestewColourtheminthepaninwhichthemeatwasbrownedaddingmoregoosefatasnecessary(thegenerousamountoffatisneededforthisrecipeasvenisonisaleanmeat)Addthevegetablestothecasserole

WashthesoftdowncoatingoffthequincesandthencoreandchopthemtheiraromawillbepineapplerichAddtothecasserolewithalltheremainingingredientsexceptthepineappleweedvinegarandseasoningThecasseroleneedstogointheovenbutdonrsquotpreheatitasitbenefitsfromareallyslowriseintemperatureasHaroldMcGeeadvisesinhisseminalbookOnFoodandCooking(seeboxopposite)Starttheovenat95degC(orthelowestpossiblesettinginagasoven)puttingthecasseroleinwiththelidofftothesideslightlytoallowsomeevaporationThiswillslowlyraisetheinternaltemperatureto50degCLeavefor2hoursthenincreasetheoventemperatureto120degCGasMarkfrac12whichshouldincreasethetemperatureto80degCCookfor1ndash2hourswiththelidstillaskewthentestthemeatfortendernesswithaknifeKeepcheckingathalf-hourintervalsuntilyouaresatisfieditistenderenoughTastethesauceanddecideifyouwouldliketoreduceittoconcentratetheflavourTodothisremovethemeatandvegetablesfromthecasseroleandsetasidePlacethesauceoverahighheatandletitsimmervigorouslyforabout5minutesuntilslightlyreducedinvolumeTasteanddecideifthisstrengthsuitsyouRepeatuntiltheflavourisasyoulikeitthenseasonwithsaltpepperandadashofcidervinegarReturnthemeatandvegetablestothecasseroleandleavetocoolovernightthenchillitinthefridgethenextmorningItwillbereadyafteragentlereheatwhilethedumplingsarebeingmade

Tomakethedumplingssifttheflourintoafoodprocessorandaddtheeggs

TomakethedumplingssifttheflourintoafoodprocessorandaddtheeggsbuttersaltherbsandblackpepperProcessuntilthemixtureresemblesbreadcrumbsthenwiththemachinestillrunningslowlypourinenoughcreamtoformadoughLettheprocessorturnforacoupleofminutestostretchthedoughItshouldbefluffywithaslightlytackyexteriorandbreakaparteasilyIfnotaddadashmorecreamandmixagainTakethedoughoutandshapeinto25cmballsKeepcoveredbeforecookingthem

Poachthedumplingsinalargepanoffast-boilingwaterinbatchesof8ItisessentialthatthewaterisboilingrapidlysotheyfluffupquicklyTheywillfloattothesurfaceastheybegintocookCookforafurther2minutesfromthispointthenremovewithaslottedspoonServethedumplingsdroppedintothattoothsometenderstewwithalightdustingofthechamomilerelativepineappleweedroughlychoppedifyouhaveany

HaroldMcGeemakessomeinterestingpointsonstewingmeatinhisbookOnFoodandCooking(HodderampStoughton2004seehere)ThemoreamuscleisusedthemorecollagenitwillcontainandthetougheritwillbeButwhenyouheatcollagento70ndash80degCitisconvertedintogelatinewhichissoftwobblyeasilydissolvedandkeepsmeatbeautifullytenderHoweveratthistemperaturealthoughthecollagenisconvertedintogelatineyoualsolosemoisturewhichmakesthemeatdrierMcGeersquosmethodthereforeadvocateskeepingthemeatbelow50degCforalongtimewhichweakensthecollagenthenquicklyraisingthetemperaturewhenthemeatisalmostcookedtoconvertthecollagenintogelatineThiswillretainmoreofthemoisturethanifthemeathadstayedataconstant80degCthroughouttheentirecookingtimeItsoundscomplicatedbutinrealityitisjustthescientificexplanationoftheslow-cookingtechniquewehaveusedforhundredsofyears

QUINCE

ApplesandquincegrowsidebysideinourorchardweonlyhaveonequincetreeanditscropisprizedbyusThesebrightyellowfruitresembleaplumppearandtheyhaveadownyfurthatgrowsontheirskinTheirperfumeisfreshandfloweryandistheresultoflactonesandviolet-likeiononescontainedintheskin(seeHaroldMcGeeOnFoodandCookingpage357)Intheprocessofstewingthetanninsarebrokenupandasaresultthemellowflavourandapple-liketextureofquincecanbeenjoyed

FishSoupwithSpicedHeritageTomatoesFennelSeedandEnglishTruffleOilToast

ThissoupisaquesttocombinetwoofourmajorobsessionscurryspicesandtrufflesAtfirstthismightseemanunlikelymarriageReasondictatesthatthesestrongflavourshavethepotentialtooverpoweranysoupHoweverthefinessearisingfromtheuseofheirloomtomatoesmakesthewholedishaharmoniousspice-infusedaffairHeirloomvarietieshavedesirablecharacteristicsthathavebeenpasseddownforgenerationsandtheyarefarsuperiorintastetoblandcommercialvarietiesToaddfreshtrufflestothissoupmightbeconsiderednotonlyextravagant

butdownrightcavalierInsteadweuseadashoftruffleoilforboththesoupandthetoastTruffleHunterbasedintheCotswoldsmakesanoilfromEnglishrapeseedoilandEnglishblacksummertrufflesthatisgoodenoughtomatchitsItaliancounterpartsTheresultisawarmingterracotta-colouredvelvetysoupthatwillinspireanyonetoheadouttotheBritishcountrysideinsearchofthatcovetedEnglishtruffleTrainingofOchoourresidentdoghascommencedItrsquosbesttoavoidoilyfishsuchasmackerelsalmonortunahereInstead

sticktowhitefishsuchaslingsole(lemonDoverwitchordab)pollockandcuttlefishSquidalsoworkswellandfromasustainabilitypointofviewisregardedasoneofbestfishtoeatndashparticularlyifyoucanfindsquidfromsmallseasonalBritishfisheries

SERVES4

500gtomatoes(thebestyoucanfind)rapeseedoil450gonionsroughlychopped250mlfishstock(seehere)4garliccloveschopped2heapedtbspDijonmustard400gwhitefishfilletsskinonandcleanedsquidcutinto25cmpieces1tspgroundturmeric

FORTHESPICEBLEND

2tspfennelseeds

2tspfennelseeds1tspaniseed1tspcorianderseeds2blackcardamompods15gsalt1tspgroundcinnamon1tspgroundcardamomfrac12tbspgroundturmeric

TOFINISH

250gsourdoughbreadcutintoslices25cmthickrapeseedoiltruffleoil1tspnigella(blackonion)seeds1tspfennelseedscrushedcoarseseasalt

Tomakethespiceblendheattheseedsandcardamominadryfryingpanfor2ndash3minutestoreleasetheiroilsCrushthemfinelyinapestleandmortarwiththesaltthenstirinthegroundspices

Scoreacrossonthebaseofeachtomatoputtheminapanofboilingwaterfor2minutesthendrainandpeelofftheskinsQuarterthetomatoesandscoopouttheseedsandjuiceintoasievesetoverabowlPressontheseedswiththebackofaspoontoensureyougetasmuchjuiceaspossiblethendiscardthem

HeatalittlerapeseedoilinalargepanaddtheonionsandcookuntilsoftenedbutnotcolouredStirinthespiceblendandcookforafewminutesthenaddthetomatoesandtheirjuicefishstockgarlicmustardand250mlwaterBringtoasimmerandcookcoveredfor40minutesPureacuteethesoupinablenderorfoodprocessorandthenpourintoacleanpanthroughafinesievetocatchanylargespicepiecesReheatgently

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6CutthesourdoughslicesintosquaresandtosstheminabowlwithadrizzleofrapeseedoilandanevensmallerdrizzleofthepungenttruffleoilAddsomecoarsesaltshakethroughonce

drizzleofthepungenttruffleoilAddsomecoarsesaltshakethroughoncemorethenspreadoutonabakingsheetandbakefor7ndash8minutesuntilgoldenalloverKeepthetoastsomewherewarmwhilethefishisfried

Placealargenon-stickfryingpanoveramediumheatAddasplashofrapeseedoiltothehotpanthenfrythefishforabout3minutesuntilithascolouredslightlythendustwiththeturmericandfryfornolongerthanaminutemore

LadlethesoupintobowlsdividethefriedfishandsquidbetweenthemanddrizzleasmidgenmoretruffleoilontopFinishwithafewnigellaseedsandcrushedfennelseeds

TRUFFLES

TrufflesaretheendearinglyshymembersofthefungusfamilyUnliketheirbrashovergroundrelativeswhoexplodeinamyriadofshapesandsizesunfazedbythethoughtofbeingspottedbyakeenmycophiletrufflesrsquointroverteddemeanourfindsthemdeepundergroundhavingformedanamicablerelationshipwiththerootsofasuitabletreeFranceandItalyarepopularareasfortrufflehuntersbuttheycancertainlybefoundinBritainin

limestoneorchalkareasupanddownthecountryTheRoyalBotanicalRecordsatKewdocumenttruffleshavingbeenfoundinourlocalareaThetraditionalwaytofindthemuch-prizedfungiisthroughtheuseofpigsalthoughdogsarenowmuch

morecommonlyusedEnglishtrufflescanbefoundfromJulyallthroughthewinter

Slow-braisedGoatrsquosLegwithCiderShallotsLentilsandGlazedCarrots

DuringautumnmuchofthegoatthatweusecomesfromStawleyFarminWellingtonOntheir20acresoflandCarolineAtkinsonmakesafreshcheeseusingrawmilkfromthegoatsfarmedbyherhusbandWillKiddingndashthegoatequivalentoflambingndashtakesplacearoundAprilThebillieswiththeirobviouslackofmilkingpotentialaredestinedforourpotAtthebeginningofautumntheyarearound5monthsoldandweigh10ndash12kgThelegsarejustrightforgentlebraisingTheprinciplesofstewingdiscussedonherearejustasrelevanttothisrecipeNotonlyisliquidaneffectivemeansoftransmittingheatbutitsflavourenhancesthefoodthatiscookedinitAttherestaurantMatthewandIainpressurecookthelegratherthan

braisingitintheovenBothcookingmethodswillgiveimmaculatelytendermeatthatfallsawayfromthebonePressurecookinghasitsownbenefitshowever(seehere)andwefinditthemostreliablewaytoachieveperfectionhereVeryfewingredientsarecookedwiththegoatbuttheshallotsandcarrots

playacrucialroleTheshallotsoffernaturalsugarsaswellassharpnessandasavouryflavourThecarrotsaretheirsidekickreleasingsugarsgraduallyduringtheslowcookingtimeWeservethegoatwithPuylentilswhichholdtheirtextureandhavea

uniquepepperyflavourWeusethesamevegetablesforboththelentilsandthebraiseWehonestlythinkgoathasnevertastedasgoodasitdoesinthisrecipeItisamealofclassiccleanflavoursfoodforthesoul

SERVES4ndash6rapeseedoil100gshallots(orspringonions)finelysliced200gcarrotsfinelysliced100gwhitemushroomsfinelysliced300mlmediumcidersuchasPerryrsquosMorganSweet500mlbrownchickenstock(seehere)2tbspcuminseeds

1tbspfineseasalt1goatrsquoslegshankremovedsoonlythethighremains

FORTHELENTILS

rapeseedoil150gonionsveryfinelydiced100gcarrotscutintosmallcubes50gbrownmushroomscutintosmallcubes350gPuylentils200mlbrownchickenstock(seehere)cidervinegarfineseasalt

FORTHEGLAZEDCARROTS

8ndash12small-mediumcarrotspeeledbutleftwhole125gunsaltedbuttercutinto25cmcubes1frac12tspfineseasalt1tbspcuminseeds1tbspcorianderseeds

TobraisethegoatpourathinfilmofrapeseedoilintoalargepressurecookerandplaceonahighheatAddtheshallotscarrotsandmushroomsandcookfor10ndash15minutesuntiltheybegintocolourDeglazethepanbyaddingtheciderandscrapinganystickybitsawayfromthebasewithawoodenspoonAddthechickenstockcuminseedssaltandthegoatrsquoslegPlacethelidonthepressurecookerandkeepoverahighheatWhenthecookerreachesfullpressureturntheheatdowntolowandmaintainatfullpressurefor2hoursRemovefromtheheatandallowtocoolnaturallywithoutventingthepressurecooker

Forthelentilsheatathinfilmofrapeseedoilinasaucepanaddthevegetablesandsweatfor5ndash10minutesuntilsoftenedAddthelentilsandstirthroughPourinthechickenstockadd550mlwaterandbringtotheboilCoverthepanreducetheheatandcookfor25ndash30minutesuntilthelentilsaretenderandhaveabsorbedalltheliquidSeasontotastewithfineseasaltandasmalldashofcidervinegarItisimportantnottosaltthelentilsbefore

andasmalldashofcidervinegarItisimportantnottosaltthelentilsbeforetheyarecookedortheywillbetoughandchewy

FortheglazedcarrotsputthecarrotsintoasaucepanjustlargeenoughtoholdtheminasinglelayerAddthebuttersaltandspicesandplaceoveramediumheatuntilthebutterhasmeltedTurntheheatdownalittlecoverandcookfor20ndash25minutesshakingthepanoccasionallyforevencookingWhenthecarrotsaresofttakeoffthelidandturntheheatuphightocaramelisethemlightlyRemovefromthepanandsetasidesomewherewarm

Afterthepressurecookerhascooledforatleast40minutesandthesafetylockhasreleasedremovethelidTakeoutthelegandleavetorestonaboardinawarmplaceStraintheliquidfromthepressurecookerthrough4layersofwetmuslinintoacleanpanThismayseemexcessiveanditisoptionalbutthestockwillformasauceandstraininghelpsremoveimpuritiesthatwouldcloudthesaucedetractingfromthefinaldish

SkimoffanyexcessfatfromtheliquidthenbringtotheboilandsimmeruntilreducedbyaboutathirdSeasonwithsalttotaste

ToservecarvethegoatrsquoslegandputitonservingplateswiththelentilsandcarrotsPouroveraliberalamountofthereducedbraisingliquidandfinishwithalittlesprinklingofseasalt

IfyoubraisethelegintheovenratherthanapressurecookercolourthevegetablesinalittlerapeseedoilinasaucepanoverafairlyhighheatthentransfertoaroastingtrayAddthegoatrsquoslegandenoughciderandchickenstocktocomeaboutathirdofthewayupitndashyoumayneedmoreliquidthanthequantitystatedaboveSeasonwiththeseasaltandcoverwith2layersoffoilPlaceinanovenpreheatedto120degCGasMarkfrac12androastfor4ndash5hoursuntilthemeatisimpeccablytenderCheckitevery30ndash45minutestoensurethereisstillenoughliquidtoppingupwithasplashmorechickenstockciderorwaterifnecessaryWhenyoumakethesaucetheliquidmayrequirereducingmorethanathirdtogetthecorrectflavoursokeep

reducingmorethanathirdtogetthecorrectflavoursokeeptastingitandstopwhenyouarehappywithit

PRESSURECOOKING

OurpressureCookersatTheEthicureanareconstantlyutilisedforawealthoftasksrangingfromvastquantitiesofstocktotheslowbraisingoftoughercutsofmeatsrightthroughtothecookingofourbeansandpulsesThepressurecookerisanunsungherointhekitchenWhenitcomestostockspressureCookingachievesadepthof

flavourthatwouldotherwisebeunobtainableThiscomesdowntotwoverysimpleconceptsfirstwhenmakingstocksbytheconventionalmethodthelidisuncoveredThisresultsinwhatarecalledlsquovolatilearomarsquomoleculesrisingoutofthestockAlthoughthismaysmelldelightfulwhatyouaresmellingislostflavourPressurecookershavelidsthatpreventthesearomasfromescapingandwhenusedcorrectlyandallowedtocoolthesearomascondenseinsidethepanandendupbackinthestockLessflavourislostincomparisonwithtraditionalmethodsAndwhilethelidstopsthearomasfromescapingpressurebuildsinsidethepanAtsealevelwaterboilsat100degCgiveortakeafewvariations

dependingonweatherInorderforwatertoboilenergy(intheformofheat)hastolsquopushrsquothewaterupharderthantheatmosphericpressurelsquopushesrsquothewaterdownWhentheforcepushingupisgreaterthantheforcepushingdownwaterboilsAtthetopofMountEveresttheatmosphericpressureislessthanitisatsealevelSowhenclimbersboilwaterathighaltitudesthewaterrequireslessenergy(heat)tolsquopushrsquothewaterupInfacttheboilingpointofwateratthetopofMountEverestisdramaticallyreducedandissomewherecloserto70degCInrelationtopressurecookingtheoppositeisalsotrueIfyouincreasetheatmosphericpressurethereismorepressurepushingdownonthewaterandwhatyouareleftwithisaboilingpointthatisabove100degCThisisbecausetoboilwaterunderpressureittakesmoreenergy(heat)topushthewaterupagainsttheatmosphericpressurepushingthewaterdownYouraverage

atmosphericpressurepushingthewaterdownYouraveragepressurecookerisdesignedtotakethetemperatureofwaterto120degCIainandMatthewarefascinatedbytheideaofsuper-heatedwaterbecauseflavoursarediffusedintothestockatagreaterrateathighertemperaturesndashandwestrivetocreategreaterdepthofflavourwitheverypressurecookingattemptTherearefurtheradvantagestousingapressurecookerat

homePressurecookersrequirelesswaterforcookingthefooddoesnothavetobeimmersedinliquidasthecookercontainssteamaswellasliquidThismeansthatlessenergyisrequiredtoheattheliquidtothedesiredtemperaturendashsomethingthatisverymuchinlinewithourstrongbeliefinreducingenergyconsumptionVitaminsarealsosaidtobepreservedmoreefficientlywhencookedunderpressureduetothesmallerquantitiesofliquidneededcombinedwiththefastercookingtimenutrientshavelessopportunitytoleachoutintothewaterWhenapressurecookerisusedcorrectlyliquidwillnotcome

totheboilWithstocksthatarehighlyvaluedforclaritythisisahugepositiveTakeyourtraditionalstockmethodforasimplestockbonesareroastedputinwaterwithvegetablesandherbsandcookedfor4hoursUsuallyastockwillbubbleawayrelativelyunattendedformostofthistimewiththecookoccasionallyskimmingoffimpuritiesIntheprocessofastockbubblingthebubblescreatemovementthroughthewaterwhichinturnbreaksdownvegetablematterintotinypiecesNotonlythatbutmotioncreatedbywaterboilingemulsifiesanyfatsintothestockAllofthatvegetablematterandfatresultinacloudystockInapressurecookerwatersitsmotionlessat120degCWhatyouareleftwithisaclearstockwhichcaninturnbeusedtoproducecrystal-clearsaucesorprovidethehiddenpunchofflavourthatmakesyourdishahit

PheasantKievwithWinterTarragonandStrawberryMyrtle

TheepitomeofautumncomfortfoodthiswasonthemenuduringTheEthicureanrsquosfirstmonthWeopenedinOctoberaboutamonthintothepheasantseasonandthiswasourplayonchickenKievndashasuperiorversioninouropinionduetothecomplexnatureofpheasantThehistoryoftheKievbeginsinRussiaandendsmostlyinthesupermarketchillercabinetAsaconceptitisflawlesscrispbreadcrumbedmeatoozingwithgarlicherbsandbutterForthefillingweaddtwoveryunderusedingredientsThefirstis

strawberrymyrtleanevergreenshrubthathasbrightredberriesaboutthesizeofcranberriesinautumnTheyarereminiscentofspicedstrawberryandtakefirst-timetasterscompletelybysurpriseJekkaMcVicartellsusthattheywereQueenVictoriarsquosfavouritefruitandshewouldoftenhavethemsentupfromCornwallTheirfruityspiceisacompletehitwithpheasantbutshouldyounotbeabletofindthemjuniperwilldoagoodjobtooThesecondspecialingredientiswintertarragon(Tageteslucida)aperennialwithdistinctlyaniseed-flavouredleavesItcanbepickedwhenFrenchtarragonisnolongeravailableandhalftheamountisneededForPaucirclaithasaparticularrelevanceastheflowerofwintertarragonformspartofthedecorationsduringthediacuteadelosmuertosortheDayoftheDeadIthasrootsinSouthAmericanculturethatgorightbacktotheAztecsandisstillusedbymanyMexicanIndiansasaningredientinincense

SERVES4

4largepheasantbreastsskinned100gsoftenedsaltedbutter2tbspfinelychoppedwintertarragon3tbspstrawberrymyrtle(orjuniper)2largeeggsbeaten250gstalebreadmadeintofinebreadcrumbs30gplainflourfineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperValorPotatoMash(seehere)toserve

FORTHEBRINE

40gfineseasalt2tspfennelseeds

2tspfennelseeds1tspfreshlygroundblackpepper

BeginbymakingthebrinendashthiscanbedonewellinadvanceandkeptinthefridgeuntilneededPutthesaltandspicesinasaucepanwith500mlwaterandbringtotheboilImmediatelyremovefromtheheatandleavetocoolthentransfertoaplasticboxandchillthoroughly

Putthepheasantbreastsinthebrineandleavefor2hoursDrainoffthebrinepourcoldwateroverthepheasantandleavefor2minutesDrainagainandpatdryonkitchenpaperKeepinthefridgeuntilneeded

MeanwhilemashtogetherthebutterandtarragonusingthebackofaforkDivideitinto4portionsandflatteneachoneoutintoasquareshapethatwillfitinsideapheasantbreastPlacethebutteronsomegreaseproofpaperandfreezefor1hour

ButterflythepheasantbreastsTodothislayeachoneonaboardandusingaverysharpknifecutintothebreastparalleltothechoppingboarduntilyoureach1cmfromtheotheredgeEssentiallyyouareenablingthebreasttoopenupcompletelywhilethe2sidesstayconnectedbyalsquohingersquoOnceeachbreasthasbeenopenedupplaceaportionofthebutterinthecentrealongwithaquarterofthestrawberrymyrtleBrusharoundtheedgesofbothsidesofthebreastwithalittleofthebeateneggthencloseitencasingthebutterandherbs

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6Spreadoutthebreadcrumbsinaroastingtrayandbakefor5minutesStirwellthenreturnthemtotheovenandcontinuetobakestirringat2-minuteintervalsuntilthecrumbsarecompletelydryandcrispSetasidetocool

Placetheflourbreadcrumbsandremainingbeateneggin3separatebowlsCoateachbreastinflourthendipitintheeggandcoatwiththebreadcrumbsFinallydipeachbreastbackintotheeggandthencoatwithafinallayerofbreadcrumbsThislsquodouble-diprsquomethodensuresmorecrunchontheexteriorandalsohelpspreventthebutterescaping

PuttheKievsonaroastingtrayplaceintheovenandbakefor14minutesServewiththemashandseasonalgreens

HANGINGPHEASANTS

WhenbuyingpheasantstrytoensurethatyoutakehomeyoungbirdsyoucandothisbycheckingthebeakandclawsOldermeansthickerandharderAbraceofpheasantsisacock(male)andahen(female)Oldstalwartsofgamewouldadvisethatcocksmustbehunglongerthanhensduetotheirmoreactive

lifestyleandlargersizeInpracticeitalldependsonthetemperatureatwhichtheyarehungandontheageofthebirdWewouldadvisebuyingabracethathasalreadybeenhungbyyourbutcherThebasicsciencebehindhangingisthatenzymesinthemeatattackothercellmoleculesandthisinturnreduces

theselargemoleculesintotastiersmallermoretenderpieces(seeMcGeeOnFoodandCookingpage144)

Wintertarragon

Strawberrymyrtle

daggerThestorygoesthatJasonandtheArgonautsbroughtthepheasantbacktoGreece(alongwiththeGoldenFleece)fromtheplacenowthoughttobeGeorgiandashtheLatinnameforpheasantiscochicusaderivativeofthatareaItwasthenbroughttoBritainbytheRomansandappearedinfossilisedformatCorbridgearoundthesiteofHadrianrsquoswallEleventh-CenturyremainsoffeaststhatincludepheasantbonesaboundItwasnotuntiltheeighteenthandnineteenthcenturiesthatnewvarietiesofpheasantwereintroducedfromtheFarEastandChinaThemalesreallyaresplendidtheircoloursareautumnalandseemtomirrorthetreesrsquoseasonaltransformationtogoldsredsandbrownsThesebirdsarenotparticularlycleverandDorothyHartleyhadacunningtechniqueforpoachingthemfromhergardeninsummerlsquoPheasantisfairlycommoninEnglandinSummerwhenthecockinvadesthecottagegardenstosneakthepeasYoucatchhimquietlywithapaperbagandraisinsSmearthepaperconeinsidewithtreacleorgumputafewraisinsatthebottomandpropthe

bagupagainstthepeasWhenhestickshisheadinhecannotseewheretogosohestandstilltillyoufetchhimrsquo(FoodinEnglandpage202)

RareRoastSirloinofBeefwithBordelaiseSauceBlackCabbageandTruffleCauliflower

OneofourfavouritefeaturesattheWalledGardenisthemainseatingareaoftherestaurantwhichwecalltheglasshouseWithitsnear-perfect180-degreeviewoftheSomersethillsitgivesusarealsenseofthechangingcountrysidethroughouttheseasonsFromherewehaveoftenobservedthedifferentweatherpatternsapproachingandnotedtheeffecttheyhaveonthelandscapearoundusMostimportantlyhowevertheviewofthevastvelvetyhillsservesasadailyreminderofourfantasticbeef-farmingheritageintheUKBritainrsquosfertilepasturesproducesomeofthebestbeefintheworldand

BritainrsquosfertilepasturesproducesomeofthebestbeefintheworldandhaveledtothedevelopmentofsomesuperbcattlebreedsAttherestaurantweuseHerefordCrossorCharolaisbeefthathasbeenagedfor28ndash35daysTheadvantagesofageingaretwofoldasthemeathangsmoistureevaporatesfromitwhichmeansagreaterintensityofflavourisachievedatthesametimethetoughconnectivetissuegraduallybreaksdownresultinginmoretendermeatWewouldrecommendseekingoutbeefthathasbeenhungforatleast28daysThiskindofmeatisamagnificenttestamenttoBritishbeeffarmingYet

itsrecenthistoryhasbeentroubledItsreputationsufferedgreatlyasaconsequenceoftheBSEcrisisinthelatetwentiethcenturyanditwassometimebeforeitscredibilitywasrestoredIronicallyitwasoftensmallfamily-runfarmsthatsufferedfinanciallyasaresultdespitethefactthatsuchfarmersrsquoclosedherdsoftraditionalgrass-fedbeefbreedsweretheonesthatweremostlikelytobefreeofthediseaseOncethisfactbecamewidelyknownitledtothepromotionofsmall-scalebeeffarmingwhichproducedbeefofhighqualityOursearchforabutcherwhosharedourcommitmenttosustainablefood

productionledustoThornburyfarmersrsquomarketandScottPowellfromPowellsofOlvestonndashabutcherwhostoodbeforeabannerproudlyproclaimingethicallysourcedmeatsScotthadclearlygonetogreatlengthstofindhissuppliersforbeeflambporkchickenandduckallofwhomhavehighstandardsofanimalhusbandryandexceptionallywellcared-forlivestockTocookthesirloinaccuratelyithelpstohaveadigitalprobendashamodest

investmentthatwillhaveagreatimpactonyourcookingFamiliariseyourselfwiththeguidetoroastingbeefonherebeforeyoustartthisrecipeThebeefwilltakeabout4hoursfromleavingthefridgetoservingDonrsquotworryifitisreadybeforethesidedishesndashbetterthatitiswellrestedthanrushedtothetableItcanbeheldinaverylowovenalongsidewarmingplatesafterbastingforaslongasrequiredThisrelaxedapproachmarksoutSundayasanidealtimetocatchupandmullovertheweekwithfamilyandfriends

SERVES8

2kgbeefsirloinpreferablyagedfor28ndash35days3tbspmustardpowder

plainflourfordusting3tbsprapeseedoil400gblackcabbage(cavolonero)kaleorscarletborecolestalksremovedcutinto2cmstrips

1tbspcidervinegaradoublequantityofBordelaiseSauce(seehere)ValorPotatoMash(seehere)toserveflakyseasalt

FORTHETRUFFLECAULIFLOWER

1cauliflower1tspsmokedsalt4tbspdoublecreamtruffleoilpreferablyEnglish(seehere)totaste

Takethesirloinoutofthefridge2hoursbeforecookingtobringittoroomtemperatureRemoveanystringandcoveritwithateatowel

Dividethecauliflowerinto25cmfloretsandslicethestemPlaceinasteamerbasketandsteamoveralowheatfor35minutesuntilverysoftTransferthecauliflowertoablenderorfoodprocessorwiththesmokedsaltandblitzacoupleoftimesThenwiththemachinerunningpourinaslowdrizzleofdoublecreamuntilitbeginstocombineOnceitstartstomovearoundtheblenderaddalightsplashoftruffleoilndashsomewhereintheregionof1ndash2teaspoonsTastethemixtureanddecideifyouwantmoresaltortruffleoilScrapedownthesidestocatchanyremainingunblendedpiecesandblendoncemoreIfyouwantaverysmoothfinishpassthemixturethroughafinesieveSetaside

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6Getalargeheavy-basedfryingpanveryhotItrsquosimportantthatthebeefbrownsquicklysomakesurethepanispracticallyhummingDustthesirloinonallsideswiththemustardpowderthenwithflourrubbingitintomaketheoutsidedry(donrsquotaddanysaltatthisstage)LiftthejointupandgiveitafewpercussiveslapstoknockoffanyexcessflourCarefullyadd2tablespoonsoftherapeseedoiltothehotpanandusingacarvingforkgentlylowerthebeefintoitItwillcolour

quicklyoverthisheatsoturnitregularlyuntilbrownedonallsidesTransfertoaroastingtrayandplaceintheovenDecidetowhatdegreeyouwouldlikethemeatcooked(seetheboxonhererememberingthatthetemperaturesshownaretheonesthemeatshouldreachafterresting)Roastfor25minutesthentakethejointoutforitsfirsttemperaturetestInsertadigitalprobeintothesideyouwouldcarvefromatwhicheverendisthickestasclosetothecentreofthecrosssectionaspossibleandcheckthetemperatureProbeatacouplemorepointstheaimbeingtofindthelowesttemperaturereadinginthejointThetemperatureislikelytomeasureinthemidtwentiesinwhichcaseitcangobackintheovenfor10minutesbeforetestingagainAsitnearsyourchosentemperaturereturnittotheovenprobingat5-minuteintervalsuntilthecorrecttemperatureisreachedWecookourbeeftoaninnercoretemperatureof37degCandwhenitisoutoftheovenwewatchthecarry-overeffectonthethermometerasitclimbsto50degCPerfectlyrareRestingfor30minutesisessentialtofinishingthebeefproperlyStraightafteritcomesoutoftheoventhefibreswillcontractandjuiceswillleavethemeatThenastheystopcontractingitwillreabsorbthejuicesThiswindowprovidesagreatopportunitytoseasonApplyuptoatablespoonofflakyseasaltliberallytothejointOverthenext10ndash30minutesregularlybastethemeatbyspooningthejuicesbackoveritThesaltwilldissolvefromthesurfaceandthepanjuiceswillberenderedtoosaltyforuseelsewherebutasthebeefabsorbssomeofthissaltitwillbeseasonedtoperfectionAfterthesirloinhasbeenbastedandresteditcanbereturnedtoanovensetat50degCwhereitwilllsquoholdrsquoperfectlytillyouarereadytocarveitndashatechniqueusedinmanyprofessionalkitchens

Heattheremainingrapeseedoilinapanaddthecabbageandcookoveramediumheatfor30ndash45secondsAddthecidervinegarletitsteamoffintheheatofthepanthenseasonwithsaltandtransfertoawarmservingdish

Reheatthecauliflowerpureacuteecarvethebeefandservewiththebordelaisesaucemashandcabbage

AGEINGBEEF

Whenabeeforbuffalocarcassisagedthemeataswholejointsisheldbetween1and3degCEnzymesinmusclebreakproteins

intosavouryaminoacidsandthisiswhereflavourdevelopsfrom(seeHaroldMcGeeOnFoodandCooking)Thisprocesswonrsquotbenoticeableuntilafter20daysandcontinuesforafurther15daysFurtheractionoffungalmicrobesontheexteriorcomplementsthisprocessTheydonrsquotcausespoilageinthetruesenseandin

anycasethemeatistrimmedofitscrustasamatterofcoursebythebutcherattheendofthematuringAsupermarketwouldmostlikelycutandpackagemeatafteronlyfourdaysofstoringinoxygen-lessconditionsThesupermarketbenefitsfromhaving

nolossinweightthatadry-ageingprocesswouldeffectSearchoutanindependentproducerofBritishgrass-fedbeefatafarmersrsquomarkettalktohimorherandaskaboutthisprocess

UponknowingalittlemoreabouttheirartisanskillsandprideintheirproductyouaremuchmorelikelytocomeawaywithameltinglytenderandflavoursomecutofmeatAsBritainistheonlycountryintheworldtobananimalderivativesinfeedthebeefisnowthesafesttheworldoversomethingtosupportandtrulygetbehindOnceyouhaveboughtthebestpossiblepiece

ofmeatthekitchenprocessissimpletosaytheleast

ROASTINGBEEF

RoastingbeeftoperfectionrequiresanaccuratethermometerTherearemanyotherwaysofjudgingwhenthebeefisatthecorrectstageoflsquodonenessrsquobutathermometerisundoubtedlythemosteffectivewaytoachievethesameresulteverytimeOvensoperateatdifferenttemperatureswiththeirownuniquecoldspotsandhotspotsHavingacorrectlycalibratedthermometertomeasuretheinternaltemperatureofthemeatnegatesalltheguessworkForourrareroastsirloinwhichweservemostSundaysinthe

restaurantthecutisroastedtoaninternaltemperaturematching

restaurantthecutisroastedtoaninternaltemperaturematchingthatofourbodiesThemeatisthentakenoutoftheovenandallowedtorestforaminimumof30minutesbeforeitisservedMeatissubjecttoaphenomenonknownaslsquocarry-overcookingrsquoEssentiallythismeansthatevenafterthemeathasbeenremovedfromtheoventheinternaltemperaturewillcontinuetoriseagoodfewdegreesThethickerthepieceofmeatthemoreheatitwillretainandthehigheritwillclimbSirloinandotherlargecutsusuallyclimbaround10ndash13degCThechartbelowshowsthetemperaturethemeatshouldreachafterresting

Whencookingsteaksremovethemfromtheheatwhentheyareroughly5degCbelowthetemperatureyouwanttoreachforribsofbeef5ndash10degCWewouldneverrecommendtakingbeefabove60degCasitbecomesalmostasmuchofatasktoeatascoldMidgetGemsAndalotlessenjoyabletoo

AlmondPearCardamomandChocolateCake

WehaveusedmanyfruitsinthedevelopmentofthisdessertandalthoughitworkswellallyearroundwecansafelysaythatitisbestwithpearsespeciallyifyoucangetthemwhentheyareperfectlyripePearstendtobelessacidicthanapplesandwefindtheireleganthoneyedfragrancehardtoresistItwasinspiredbytheclassiccombinationofpearandalmondexemplified

inthetraditionalfrangipanendashasumptuouspastemadefromground

inthetraditionalfrangipanendashasumptuouspastemadefromgroundalmondsItevolvedintoacosmopolitanWestCountryaffairwhenwewereaskedtodesigncakestosuitthemenuoftheThaliCafeacuteanindependentIndianchainbasedinBristolTheadditionoffloral-scentedcardamomseemedinevitableThecakewastheperfectmatchforallthosewonderfulspicesusedinIndiancookingIthasnowbecomeoneofthemostpopularitemsatTheEthicureanwhethersoldfromthecakecounterorservedasawarmdessertAboveallthiscakehaswonadevotedfollowingbecausewekeepitglutenfreeGluten-freecakesaresometimesmalignedforbeingdryandcrumblybutthisofferingtrouncesthatpreconceptionWeencourageyoutotryitwarmwithadecentamountofcreamThechocolatewillmeltwithinandthefrangipanewillbetransformedintoadevastatinglymoistensemble

315gsaltedbutteratroomtemperature315gcastersugarplusalittleextrafordusting5eggslightlybeaten315ggroundalmonds50ggluten-freeplainflour(orordinaryplainflour)1tbspgroundcardamom1ripepear70gdarkchocolate(weuseOriginalBeansCruVirungachocolatebutanygood70percentcocoasolidchocolatewillwork)

Heattheovento160degCGasMark3Linethebaseandsidesofa23cmspringformcaketinwithnon-stickbakingpaper

Usingafreestandingelectricmixerfittedwiththepaddleattachmentbeatthebutterandsugartogetherfor10ndash15minutesuntilpaleandincreasedinvolumeGraduallypourinthebeateneggswhilethemixercontinuestoturnAddallthedryingredientsandmixonslowuntiljustcombinedRemovethebowlfromthemachineandfoldthemixtureafewtimeswithaspatulatoensureitiswellmixedTurnitintothetinlevelthetopslightlythenplaceinthecentreoftheovenandbakefor20minutesInthemeantimethinlyslicethepearremovingthecoreandbreakthechocolateintopiecesRemovethecakecarefullyfromtheovenItwillbeliquidwithonlyatouchofcolourPressthechocolatepiecesverticallyintothemixacrosstheentirecakeLaythepearslicesinapatternofyourchoosingon

acrosstheentirecakeLaythepearslicesinapatternofyourchoosingontopDustthemwithalittlecastersugartoaidcaramelisationandthengentlyreturnthecaketotheovenCookfor40minuteslongerturningthecakearoundhalfwaythroughtoensureitbakesevenlyIfyouhaveadigitalprobeagoodwaytoensurethatthecakeisdonetoperfectionistocheckthetemperatureinthecentreitshouldbe94degCOtherwiseinsertaskewerandcheckthatitcomesoutcleanLeavethecaketocoolforatleast20minutesbeforeserving

daggerThenamefrangipane(astheenlighteningLarousseGastronomiquetellsus)originatesfromasixteenthcenturyperfumerandnoblemantheMarquisMuzioFrangipaniInhisvastrepertoireofperfumeshehadaparticularlymemorableonebasedonbitteralmondswhichwasspecificallyusedforscentingglovesThescentwassopleasantthatitledprominentParisianchefstodesignanalmond-basedpasteintheMarquisrsquosname

daggerItseemsthatourloveforpearswassharedbyRomansandGreeksalikePearswereeatenindiversewaysandevenmadeintoanalcoholicdrinkDuringmedievaltimespearswouldonlybeeatenafterdinnerandtheyweregenerallyroastedoreatenwithsugarfennelseedsoraniseedTheytendedtobeeateninenormousquantitiesattimesofglutswhichinevitablyledtoupsetstomachsandtheincorrectassumptionthattheywereariskyfruittoeatrawThesayinglsquorawpearsapoisonbakedamedicinebersquoencapsulatesthissentimentperfectlyThepracticeofcookingpearswithsugarandspicescontinuedwelluntiltheseventeenthcentury

SeaBuckthornSorbetwithAppleandVanillaPureacuteeToffeeAppleandCaramelLemonBalm

SeabuckthornhasbeenusedforcenturiesinEuropeandAsiabothasfoodandformedicinalpurposesAsitsnamesuggestsitisahardythornybushwhichmightbewhyithasbeenforgottenaboutinrecenttimesharvestingitisnottheeasiestoftasksThisdidnotdetertheAncientGreekswhousedtofeedittotheirhorsestopromoteweightgainandglossycoatsndashhenceitsLatinnameHippophaemeaninglsquoshinyhorsersquoItrsquosdefinitelyworthlookingoutfortheberriesonseasideforagingtripsThedensebushesareeasytospotastheberriesareacheerfulbrightyellow-orangeInlinewithgoodforagingetiquettetrytoresisttheurgetocutthewholespikybranchinordertogaineasieraccesstothefruitItwilldamagetheplantandminimisethechanceofafutureharvestInsteadthinkoftheintrepidGreeksontheirshinyhorsesandarmyourselfwithathickpairofglovesandtoughclothingsoyoucanharvestinpeaceTheberriesoftenstayonthehedgewellintothewinterBewareoftheir

highacidityitcertainlymakesforaninterestinggameofwhocanpullthefunniestfaceasyoueatthemWetemperthistartnessbymakingtheberriesintoasyrupysorbetTheappleandvanillapureacuteesoftenstheirastringencyevenfurtherandprovidesasweetvelvetybasetodipyourminitoffeeapplesintoWecouldnotresistincludingtoffeeapplesTheyaretheepitomeof

autumnconjuringupthoughtsofwoodlandfloorscarpetedingoldenleavesandambersparksaroundabonfireTheseminiatureversionsareamorerefinedtreatthanthetraditionalchildhoodones

SERVES6

FORTHESEABUCKTHORNSORBET

700ndash800gseabuckthornberries250gfructose(fruitsugar)50gglucosepowder

FORTHEAPPLEANDVANILLAPUREacuteE

frac14vanillapod250gdessertapplespeeledcoredandcutintocubes

250gdessertapplespeeledcoredandcutintocubes5tbspcastersugar

FORTHETOFFEEAPPLES

175mlapplejuice100gcastersugar2BlenheimOrangeapples(orBramleyapples)4ndash6lemonbalmleaves(ormintleaves)finelyslicedtodecorateafewshardsofsaltcaramel(seehere)togarnish(optional)

Firstmakethesorbetpasstheseabuckthornberriesthroughajuiceextractorandmeasurethejuiceyouwillneed400mlPutthefructoseandglucoseinasaucepanadd330mlwaterandbringtoagentlesimmerLeavetocoolandthenstirintheseabuckthornjuicePassthroughafinesieveandleaveinthefridgeforatleast2hoursThisallowstheproteinsinthemixturetohydratefullywhichimprovesthewhippingqualitiesofthesorbetandmakesitsmootherFreezeinanice-creammachineaccordingtothemanufacturerrsquosinstructionsWhenthemixtureisalmostfrozenblitzwithastickblenderfor15ndash30secondsthenreturntothemachineandcontinuetochurnDecantintoanairtightcontainerandfreezeforatleast2hoursbeforeserving

FortheappleandvanillapureacuteeslitopenthevanillapodandscrapeouttheseedsPuttheseedsandpodinasaucepanwiththeapplessugarand50mlwaterandplaceoveramediumheatBringtoasimmerandcookfor30minutesstirringoftenTransfertoablenderremovingthevanillapodandblitztoapureacuteePassthroughafinesieveandsetasideAllowtocoolandthenchill

TomakethetoffeeapplespourtheapplejuiceintoasaucepanandbringtoagentlesimmerRemovefromtheheatandkeepwarmUsethesugartomakeacaramelfollowingtheinstructionsforSaltCaramelonherebutomittingthesaltLetitreachadeepevengoldcolourtheninsteadoftippingitontoasiliconematremovefromtheheatandslowlyaddtheapplejuiceBecarefulasthecaramelwillbubblerapidlywhenthejuiceispouredinOnceallthejuicehasbeenaddedthecaramelwillprobablysolidifyPlaceoveralowheatandcookstirringuntilithasmeltedintothe

applejuiceSimmeruntilithasreducedtoaloosesyrupyconsistencyRemovefromtheheatandleavetocool

Usingamelonballerscoopout18ndash24ballsofapplekeepingtheskinonPuttheballsinasaucepanjustlargeenoughtoholdtheminasinglelayerthenaddenoughofthecaramelapplesyruptoreachhalfwayupthemPlaceonahighheatandcookturningtheappleballsregularlyuntilthesyruphasthickenedenoughtocoatthemRemovefromtheheatandsetasideinawarmplaceuntilneeded

ToservespoonsomeapplepureacuteeontoeachplatethenaddthetoffeeappleballsdressedwithalittleextrasyrupDecoratewiththelemonbalmandsaltcaramelshards(ifusing)andplaceascoopofsorbetoneachplate

BeetrootAppleandCobnutCrumblewithRoastedWhiteChocolateSpoom

GiventhatwehavesomanyapplevarietiesintheWalledGardenwecouldnotresistcreatingaversionoftheubiquitouscrumbleItisafterallthequintessentialBritishpuddingandonethatcanbeenhancedgreatlybythechoiceofingredientsusedItsbeautyliesnotonlyinitssimplicitybutalsoinitsversatilitySurprisinglycrumblesdidnrsquotbecomepopularuntiltheSecondWorldWarwhentheywereawayofekingoutsugarflourandbutterrationstomakeapuddingUsingbeetrootmightseemslightlyriskybutwehaveoptedforthesweetwhite-fleshedAlbinaIcebeetrootwhichgivesasubtlecolourpaletteIfyoucangetRibstonPippinapplestheyoffertheperfectcombinationofpearmaltandpeachflavoursandalsohaveasubtlechestnut-likeflavourthatcomplementsthecobnutsWeopttoturntheappleandbeetrootoutontoacrispseparatelybakedcrumbleandhaveborrowedthetarteTatinideaofmakingacarameltotopthedishSoinessencethisisanupside-downcrumbleTheadditionofanuttyelementisoptionalbutyouwillfindthatitimprovesthetextureofthetoppingbymakingitcrunchierndashthehallmarkofagoodcrumbleinourviewItisofcoursepossibletosubstitutehazelnutsforthecobnutsbutwewouldurgeyoutoheadoutdoorsandfindyournearestcobnuttreeThisissuchagreatnativenutwithanamazinghistory(seehere)

SERVES6ndash8

350gAlbinaIcebeetroot(orsubstitutegoldenbeetrootChioggiaorredvarietiesforaverydifferentcolourfinish)

500gRibstonPippinapples(orCoxrsquosOrangePippins)RoastedWhiteChocolateSpoom(seehere)toserve

FORTHECRUMBLE

100gcobnuts260gplainflour165gdemerarasugar165gunsaltedbutteratroomtemperaturecutintocubesfrac12tspgroundcinnamon

FORTHEVANILLAANDCIDERBRANDYCARAMEL

125gcastersugar100mlagedciderbrandy1vanillapod50gunsaltedbutteratroomtemperaturecutintosmallcubes

FirstmakethecrumbleHeattheovento180degCGasMark4PutthenutsinafoodprocessorandblitzforasecondortwountiltheyarecoarselychoppedSiftintheflouraddthesugarandturnontheprocessoragainSlowlyaddpiecesofbutterthroughthefoodtubeuntilthemixtureresemblesbreadcrumbs(Youcandothisallbyhandifyoupreferrubbingthebutterintothedryingredientswithyourfingertips)Scatterthemixtureintoa24cmnon-stickovenprooffryingpanwithoutpressingitdownBakefor25minutesoruntilgoldenbrownandcrispCookingthecrumbleseparatelylikethismeansitretainsitscrunchagainstthemoistappleRemovefromtheovenandcoolslightlythenturnitoutontoaservingplatebyplacingtheplateoverthepanandcarefullyflippingthembothoverHopefullyitwillcomeoutcleanandunbrokenSetasideforlaterCleanoutthepannowreadyformakingthecarameltop

WashthebeetrootwelltrimmingawaythestemsthenslicethemfinelyfromtoptobottomThiswillbeeasierwithamandolinethoughentirelypossiblewithacalmsteadyhandandasharpknifeCoretheapplesandslicefinelyintodiscs

Putthesugarandciderbrandyintothenon-stickfryingpanSlitthevanillapoddownitslengthscrapetheseedsintothepanandaddthepodhalvesaswellSetthepanoveramediumheatandbringtotheboilstirringoccasionallytodissolvethesugarTheliquidmayigniteasthealcoholcooksoffContinuetocookwithoutstirringbutkeepingacloseeyeonituntilitturnsalightcaramelcoloursimilartothatofdemerarasugarAssoonasthisoccursremovethepanfromtheheatLaytheslicesofbeetrootinthecarameltocoverthebaseofthepanthenaddalternatelayersofappleandbeetrootDotthebutteroverthetopandplaceintheovenCheckitafter35minutesitisreadywhenthemoisturehasbeencookedoutandthereisaclearlayerofdeepcaramelcolouraroundtheedgesThiscouldtakeuptoanhourdependingonthemoisturecontentoftheapplesandbeetrootsokeepcheckingat10-minuteintervalsWhenitisreadyremovefromtheoven

checkingat10-minuteintervalsWhenitisreadyremovefromtheovenandleavefor15ndash20minutesuntilthepanhandleiscoolenoughtoholdSlidethecrumbleoffitsplateontotheapplePuttheplatefacedownontothisthenflopthewholethingovertakingcaretoholdtheplatesteadytooTheapplemixtureshouldcomefreefromthepanwithagentleshakegoslowlyandgravityshouldsufficeServewiththeroastedwhitechocolatespoom

daggerTheappleswehavechosenforthisdishareRibstonPippinThemid-seasonapplevarietygaineditsnamefromRibstonHallinYorkshirewhereitisbelievedtohavegrowninthe18thcenturyThiswasanotherpopularvarietyintheVictorianeraandwasbelievedtobeoneoftheparentsofCoxrsquosOrangePippin

daggerBeetrootwasafavouritesweetenerandcolouringagentoftheVictoriansitwasoftenusedinsaladsandsoupsVictorianfoodparticularlyinnoblehouseswasallaboutcreatingthemoststunningtheatricaleffectanditseemsthatthedramaticcolourprovidedbythisrootvegetablewasafavouriteatthedinnertable

Simplesyrupsforsorbetsandspooms

Simplesyrupsforsorbetsandspooms

SugarsyrupsareanessentialpartofmakingsorbetsspoomsandicecreamsForallsorbetandspoomrecipesweuseinthisbookweusea50percentsugarsyrupalsoknownas5050syrupDependingonitsuseweeitherusesucrose(commontablesugar)or

fructose(fruitsugar)(formoreonfructoseseehere)Forfruitypreparationswewillgenerallyalwaysusethe5050fructosesyrupIfyouareeverunsurerefertotherecipethatyouaremaking

5050COMMONSYRUP

500gcastersugar500gwater

5050FRUCTOSESYRUP

500gfructosesugar500gwater

Thismethodappliestobothsyrups

CombinethesugarandwaterinamediumsaucepanPlaceonamedium-highheatandbringtoasimmerStirtoensureallthesugarhasdissolvedbeforepouringintoabowlplacedinanicebathAllowtochilltofridgetemperaturebeforedecantingintoatupperwarecontainerandstoringinthefridgeuntilneeded

YoumayalsocoolthesyrupbypouringitintoaroastingtraywithalargesurfaceareaLiquidswithlargesurfaceareascooldownmuchmorequickly

Spoom

ThenamelsquospoomrsquocomesfromtheItalianwordspumemeaningfoamSpoomresemblesasmoothairysorbetItisaforgottendessertnowadaysbutitusedtobeverypopularinEnglandItwasmadewithalightersyrupthan

anormalsorbetandonewouldmixinItalianmeringueforgoodmeasureItwascommonlysoldinatallglasssothatyoucouldseethelayersandtextureswithinSpoomissuchaversatiledessertthatitisastonishingthatweeverletitgooffourculinaryradarInordertorevivethespoomwehavecomeupwithanautumnalandasummeryoptionReadonandspoomaway

RoastedWhiteChocolateSpoom

SERVES4ndash6

350gwhitechocolate180gglucosesyrup80gItalianMeringue(seehere)

Preheattheovento110degCGasMarkfrac14BreakupthechocolateintoanovenproofdishandplaceintheovenLeavefor10minutesbeforestirringwithaspatulaReturntotheovenstirringevery5minutesuntilthechocolatehastakenonalightndashmediumbrowncolour(likeCaramac)Thisusuallytakes40ndash60minutesDuringthisprocessthechocolatewillgothroughseveralstageshardmeltedchalkyandgrainybeforebecomingcompletelysmoothDonrsquotpanicThisisnormalTakecarewhenremovingitfromtheovenasitrsquosincrediblyhotDecantintoaplasticcontainerandleavetocoolOncecoldandsolidifiedchoproughlyintosmallpiecesandplaceinamixingbowl

Inasaucepancombinetheglucosesyrupwith850gofcoldwaterPlaceoveramediumheatandbringtoaverygentlesimmerPourthesimmeringliquidoverthechoppedchocolateStirforacoupleofminutesbeforeblendingwithastickblender(orpouringintoablender)FoldintheItalianmeringue

Spoonthechocolatemixtureintoaplasticcontainerandrefrigerateforatleast2hours(TherefrigerationprocessallowstheproteinspresentinthespoomtohydratefullyThiswillinturnimproveitswhippingqualitiesallowingmoreairtobeincorporatedandresultinasmootherproduct)Removefromthefridgeandstrainthroughafine-meshsieve

Twentyminutesbeforeyouarereadytochurnswitchonyourice-cream

Twentyminutesbeforeyouarereadytochurnswitchonyourice-creammachineAddthespoomtotheice-creammachineWhenthemachinebeginstolabourremovethebowlandblitzthemixturewithastickblender(orspoonintoablender)for15ndash30secondsReturnthemixturetotheice-creammachineandchurnforafurther2ndash3minutesDecantintoanairtightliddedplasticcontainerandfreezeforatleast2hoursbeforeserving

CherrySpoom

SERVES4ndash6

500gpittedcherriesstonesreserved(seeNotebelow)150g5050FructoseSyrup(seehere)35gItalianMeringue(seehere)

Placethecherriesinablenderandblitzonfullspeedfor12minutesPassthroughachinoisorfine-meshsieveintoamixingbowltoremoveanyexcesssolids

AddthesyruptothecherriesmixingwellWhiskintheItalianmeringueuntilfullyincorporated

Spoonthecherrymixtureintoaplasticcontainerandrefrigerateforaminimumof2hours(TherefrigerationprocessallowstheproteinspresentinthespoomtohydratefullyThiswillinturnimproveitswhippingqualitiesallowingmoreairtobeincorporatedandresultinasmootherproduct)Removefromthefridgeandstrainthroughafine-meshsieve

Twentyminutesbeforeyouarereadytochurnswitchonyourice-creammachine(itneedstobeverycoldbeforeusesoastoformicecrystalsasquicklyaspossiblemakingforasmootherfinish)Addthespoomtotheice-creammachineWhenthemachinebeginstolabourremovethebowlandblitzthemixturewithastickblender(orspoonintoablender)forabout15ndash30secondsReturnthemixturetotheice-creammachineandchurnforafurther2ndash3minutesDecantintoanairtightliddedplasticcontainerandfreezeforatleast2hoursbeforeserving

NOTEasanoptionalstepforthisrecipewrapthereservedcherrystonesinateatowelandbashthemwitharollingpintocrushthemPlacethecrushedstonesinasaucepanalongwiththefructosesyrupBringthesyruptotheboilandthentakeofftheheatAllowtocooltoroomtemperatureandthenplacein

thefridgeuntilthoroughlycoldStrainthroughachinoisorfine-meshsievetoextractthestonesbeforecontinuingwiththesamemethodasaboveThiswilladdanextracomplexitytothespooncontributinganever-so-slightlybitteralmondtasteDelightful

ItalianMeringue

ItalianmeringuesareathingofbeautyTheirthickunctuoustextureisenoughtomakeagrownmanregresstoachildlikestatescrapingeverylasttinymorseloutofthebowlandhungrilylickingthespoonAmeringueisatypeoffoammadefromwhiskingeggwhitesandthen

addingsugarItistheeggwhitesthatcreatethefoamasthewhiteiswhiskedtheproteinswhichareinatangledformintheirnaturalstatebegintounravelintostrandsThesestrandstheninteractwithoneanotherandasairisincorporatedthroughwhiskingtheywraparoundtheairbubblesandtrapitandthusafoamiscreatedThemeringuemostofusmakeathomeisanuncookedmeringueThesearenotconsideredsafetoeatintheirrawstatesimplybecausetemperaturehasnotbeenappliedtokillanybacteriapresentUsuallythesemeringuesareputintotheoventocrispupandformpavlovasorgivetherisetosouffleacutesIfleftuncookedarawmeringuewilleventuallydeflateastheraworlsquosoftrsquoproteinsintheeggarenolongerabletoretaintheairbubblesItalianmeringuesdifferfromthecommonmeringuebecauseastheeggs

arewhiskedtothecorrectconsistencyboilingsugarispouredinThisboilingsugarcookstheeggwhiterenderingitsafetoeatbutinterestingly

asthehotsugarcookstheeggwhitesthelsquosoftrsquoproteinscoagulatetrappingairalmostinstantlyCoagulatedproteinsaresetandareabletoholdontotrappedairmuchmoreeffectivelythanrawproteinsThesearetwogoodreasonsweuseItalianmeringueitispasteurisedandfarmorestablethananyothermeringueItalianmeringuecanbeusedtomakecrispmeringuesandawholehostofotherdessertsWeuseitforcreatingourspooms(seehere)Italianmeringuesarethemorecomplicatedtomakebutdonrsquotletthisput

youoffWithalittlepracticeyouwillhoneamethodthatworksforyouandyourequipmentandyouwillbeabletomakeaperfectmeringueeverytime

320gcastersugar150geggwhites

Placethesugarand100gofcoldwaterinasmallsaucepanPlaceonamediumheatandbringtotheboilAsthesyrupbeginstoboilincreasetheheattomedium-highIfyouhaveajamthermometerthenplaceitinthesyrupIfyouhaveaninstareadthermometerthenperiodicallycheckthetemperaturendashyouneedittoreach110degC(seebelow)beforeyoutacklethenextstepHaveasmallbowlofwaterandasiliconepastrybrushatthereadyAsthesugarbeginstoboilareaswillmostlikelycrystallisearoundtheedgeofthepanBrushtheseawaywiththewetpastrybrushtopreventtheentiresyrupfromcrystallisingDonotstirthesyrup

AddtheeggwhitestoameticulouslycleanmixingbowlMakesurethesugarhasreached110degCbeforeyoustarttowhisktheeggwhites(seeboxopposite)WhisktheeggwhitesuntiltheyformstiffpeaksWhenthesugarreaches121degCandthewhitesareatthestiffpeakstageslowlypourinthesugarsyrupinathinsteadystreamdowntheedgeofthemixingbowlwhilewhiskingatfullspeedOnceallthesyrupisaddedcontinuetowhiskuntilthemeringuereturnstoroomtemperatureThisshouldtakeabout15ndash20minutesTimespentonthisismostdefinitelyworthitsobepatient(AgreatwayofentertainingyourselfthroughtasksthatrequirecontinuousattentionistotakenoteofthecharacteristicsofthecontentsofthepanormixingbowlObservinghowtheyflowtheirshinetextureorsmellHowtheyslowlychangevicositycolourandaromaNoticinglittlethingslike

thatmaysoundalittleoddbutwhenyoulookcloselyyoursquollseehowfascinatingitcanbe)

Ifyouwanttomakeindividualmeringuespreheattheovento60degC(orthelowestpossiblegassetting)LineabakingsheetwithgreaseproofpaperPlacegeneroustablespoonsofthemeringuemixtureabout5cmapartonthebakingsheetCookintheovenfor3ndash5hoursuntiltheoutsideofthemeringueformsafairlythicksoftskinAtthispointswitchofftheovenandleavetocoolforacoupleofhours

Ifmakingthemeringueforthespoomrecipesonherethenwewouldrecommendeithermakingahalfbatchorensuringthatyoutrybothrecipesthenfreezethem

DIFFICULTYOFTIMING

ThisisthedifficultstageofmakingItalianmeringuegettingthetimingrightYouwanttheeggstobeatthestiffpeakstageasthesugarhits121degCIfyouhaveanelectrichandwhiskthenstartingtowhisktheeggwhitesat105degCwillprobablybeaboutrightIfyouhaveaKitchenaiditwillwhiskthewhitesfarquickerthanahandwhisksostartitafewdegreeslater(try108ndash110degC)ThereareafewthingsyoucandotocontrolthemixturehavinganicebathreadyisausefultipIfthesugarreaches121degCbeforetheeggwhitesareatstiffpeakstagethendropthebaseofthesugarpanintotheicebathThiswillstopthesugarfromcontinuingtocookandthesugarwillremainliquidforyoutopourintotheeggwhitesatthecorrectstageWithallthingsinthekitchennothingbeatsabitofrepetitionandpracticeFromrepeatingthesamerecipesyoulearnthesubtlenuancesofeachingredientandhowitrespondstowhatyoudotoitItwillquicklybecomesecondnature

THECHEESEBOARD

ThereisnodoubtthatBritishartisancheesemakingisundergoingarevivalAspartofadesiretoreconnectwiththephysicalprocessofmakingfoodwewanttotraceourcheesesfromsourcetotableTherichhistoryofBritishcheesealongwiththeintricatespecificsofourregionalrecipesissomethingtoberediscoveredanddevelopedThetechniquesemployedbyartisancheesemakerstodayareforthelargepartthesameasthoseusedsincetimeimmemorialHavingdistinctivestylesofcheesesthroughoutthecountryisbrillianttastelessuniformityisnotAcheesemakershouldhaveadirectlinkwithhisorhermilksupplyInthe

pasttheherdandthedairywouldhavebeenonthesamefarmndashandinsomecasestheystillareThequalityoftheproductisdueinparttothecommunicationbetweenthecheesemakerandthepersonwholooksaftertheherdRegionalorterritorialcheesesarespecifictothelandscapeinwhichtheyaremadeandthegeographicalpositionwilldeterminethecharacterofthepastureonwhichtheanimalsfeedWehavebeenluckyenoughtohostCheeseSchoolatTheEthicurean

OrganisedbyJessTrethowanandFionaBeckettittakesplaceinatentwithwonkytableshurricanelanternsandenoughexpertstosinkabattleshipTherearetalksbycheesemakersbrewersbakersanddrinksexpertsandwefounditaninvaluablewayoflearninghowandwhycertaincheesesworkwithparticularflavoursanddrinksItalsohelpedusunderstandhowthecheesemakingprocessisaffectedbytheseasonsandthedietoftheherdAcelebrationofthedistinctivecharacterofBritishcheesemakingitisachancetoshareanecdotesandknowledgeThewordartisansometimescomesunderfireforitsassociationwith

premiumorhigher-endbutthecostofartisanfoodsisindicativeofthetimeeffortresearchandpassionthatgointocreatingthebestpossibleproductEnsuringthatnotonepersoninthechainoffinancialexchangeslosesoutistheresponsibilityofanybusinessownerAbusinessthatcangrowmakeorbrewagoodproductandturnaprofitwithoutexploitinganotherpersoncontributestoourlocaleconomyinthebestpossiblewayThemoreweinteractwiththepeoplewhoproduceourfoodandwiththelandfromwhichitcomesthemorewecanenjoytheculturalhistoryofourlocalarea

AtTheEthicureanweenjoychoosingtherightpairingforcheeseintheformofpreservesandotheraccompanimentsOurstaplesareHawthornJelly(seehere)quincecheese(knowntotheSpanishasmembrillo)celerysaltpicklesandDarkPlumChutney(seehere)WhenthefigtreedecidestofruitwewilloftenservethefigsalongsidefreshcurdcheesesDuringtheautumnourfavouriteappletoeatwithcheeseisAshmeadrsquosKernelacidicandsweetlikeapeardropOppositearethreeofourfavouritepairingsThekeyistomakesurethe

cheeseisnotoverpoweredbyitsaccompanimentandviceversaWefindpickingoutsingleflavoursinthefoodanddrinkthataresimilarcanleadtoaharmoniousmatchFinallybearinmindthatsaltyfoodscanbenefitfrombeingpairedwithanaccompanimentthatissweetinsomeway

daggerInFoodinEnglandDorothyHartleyemotionallyrecallsthereasonsforthedeclineofBritishcheesebeforetherevivalofthelatetwentiethcenturyItappearsthatmotorisedtransportheraldedtheendoflocalisedcheesemakingasmilkwasthendeliveredtolarge-scalefactoriesFollowingfoodrationinginboththeFirstandSecondWorldWarsthegovernmentonlyallowedhardcheesetobemadeinordertoconserveresourcesndashcheeserationingcontinueduntil1954ThishadaprofoundeffectonBritishcheeseandaccountsfortheubiquityofflavourlessvacuum-packedblocksofvaryingcolourIn1989theMinistryofAgriculturewereonthevergeofbanningtheuseofrawmilkincheesemakingluckilytheywerenotsuccessfulItislittlewonderthatithastakenuntilnowforourartisancheesemakerstobuildmomentumandtheyarecertainlygainingpace

MARMALADEVODKAWITHDORSETBLUEVINNYANDCELERYSALT

ChaseDistillerymakesamarmaladevodkaThisorange-huedtippleismadebymarinatingtheirownsingle-estatevodkadistilledinHerefordwithSevilleorangemarmaladeThevodkaissweetwiththeunmistakablearomaoforangescontrastingwellwiththesaltinessofthecheeseDorsetBlueVinnycopeswiththehighalcoholinthisdrinkinmuchthesamewayasthetraditionalportandStiltoncombinationCeleryandbluecheesearedestinedtobetogetheralittlemoresaltneverdidanyharm

OLDDEMDIKEWITHMEMBRILLOANDPOTHOLERGOLDENALE

ThisisaSomersetversionofManchegoandmembrilloandacompromiseitcertainlyisnotAthinsliverofquincecheesewithsomeofHomewoodCheesesrsquoOldDemdikeisanepiphanyAdelightfuldrinkmatchisanalecalledPotHolerbrewedbyCheddarAlesItisalivelybrewagoldenalethatlikeOldDemdikehasacitrusfruitflavourCheddarAleshavehoppedthisbeerwithablendofEnglishwholehopsThisisaverypleasantmatchindeed

KEENrsquoSCHEDDARWITHSMOKEDCARDAMOMPICKLEDCARROTANDJJJCIDER(JANETrsquoSJUNGLEJUICE)

Wepickledicedrawcarrotincidervinegarcorianderandblackcardamom(seehere)TheaciditycutsrightthroughthisstrongcheeseChooseamedium-drycidersuchasJanetrsquosJungleJuicemadebyWestCroftCidersoitwillbalancetheinherentsalty-sweetnatureofthisunpasteurisedCheddarTheapplearomainboththedrinkandthecidervinegarinthepicklemakeforaclassicpairing

WewouldlovetolistallofthegreatcheesemakersoftheUKHerearejustafewofourfavourites

KEENrsquoSCHEDDAR

UnpasteurisedcowrsquosmilkwithtraditionalanimalrennetMadebytheKeenfamilyonMoorhayesFarmnearWincantonusingatraditionalpintstarterwithyoghurt-likeculturesThecheeseisboundinclothandmaturedforaminimumof10monthssometimesupto18monthsSmoothwithafirmtextureithasalong-lastingflavourthatisacombinationofnutsacidityandearth

OGLESHIELD

UnpasteurisedJerseycowrsquosmilkwithtraditionalanimalrennetMadeinNorthCadburySomersetbyJamieMontgomeryandWayneMitchellAfterbeingrindwashedthecheeseformsastickyorange-colouredrindThetasteissimilartoaracletteanditcooksverywell

DORSETBLUEVINNY

UnpasteurisedcowrsquosmilkwithvegetarianrennetMadeonWoodbridgeFarminDorsetbyMikeDaviesHeuseslsquoleftoverrsquomilkafterthecreamhasbeenskimmedoffforbutter-makingThecheesesarematuredfor3ndash5monthsandhaveasubtleflavourwithacrumblycreamytexture

GORWYDDCAERPHILLY

UnpasteurisedcowrsquosmilkwithtraditionalanimalrennetMadeonGorwyddFarmatLlanddewiBrefiCeredigionbyToddMauganandKimTrethowanThecurdisworkedbyhandandanaturalmouldrindencouragedtodevelopThecheeseiskepttruetotheoriginsoftraditionalCaerphillyasimplefarmhousecheeseeatenyoungorafteralittlematurationIthasaspringycitriclacticcentreoozymushroomycreamundertherindandamustyearthinessintherinditself

SINGLEGLOUCESTER

UnpasteurisedcowrsquosmilkwithvegetarianrennetMadeonStandishParkFarminOxlynchGloucestershirebyJonathanCrumpInthedayswhenallfarmhousesmadecheesethecreamwouldbeskimmedofftheeveningrsquosmilktomakebutterandtheskimmedmilkthatwasleftwasputwiththefollowingmorningrsquosfullmilktomakeSingleGloucestercheeseOurSingleGloucesteristraditionallymaturedandclothbound

KIRKHAMrsquoSLANCASHIRE

UnpasteurisedcowrsquosmilkwithtraditionalanimalrennetMadeonLowerBeesleyFarmnearGoosnarghLancashirebyGrahamKirkhamCurdiscombinedfromthreedaysofcheesemakingndashatechniquethatharksbacktothetraditionofnothavingalargeherdmeaningthecheesemakerwouldneedtoconsolidateafewdaysrsquomilkingVerylittlestarterisusedallowingtheaciditytoriseslowlyGrahamrsquosfathermilksthecowsandtheycandiscusstheherdrsquosdietinthefarmhousekitchenTheentirecheeseissmotheredinbutterratherthanwaxallowingsomeairtopenetrateTheflavourislemonywithamildacidityGrahamdescribesitashavingalsquobutterycrumblersquo

OLDDEMDIKE

UnpasteurisedorganicewersquosmilkwithvegetarianrennetMadebyTimHomewoodandAngelaMorrisinMellsSomersetwithmilkfromShaftesburySimilartoayoungManchegothetasteiscleanandlemony

WIGMORE

UnpasteurisedewersquosmilkwithvegetablerennetMadeinRiseleyBerkshirebyAnneandAndyWigmoreattheendoftheirgardenThisisawashedcurdcheesemeaningaquantityofwheyisremovedduringthemakeandreplacedwithwaterndashatechniquethatreducestheacidityIthasagentleflavourwithatouchofcaramelthetextureissmoothandliabletoformawonderfulgooatroomtemperature

LITTLERYDING

UnpasteurisedewersquosmilkwithvegetarianrennetMadebyJamesandDavidBartlettontheirfamilyfarminNorthWoottonSomersetMouldripenedithasarichcreamytastewithagoodsaltiness

PERROCHE

UnpasteurisedgoatrsquosmilkwithtraditionalanimalrennetMadeatNealrsquosYardCreamerynearDorstoneHerefordshirebyCharlieWesthead(knownaffectionatelytousCharlieCheese)andHadynRobertsAfreshcheeseitstillhasalittlelactictasteIthasalemon-likeflavourwithagoodhelpingofgoat

STAWLEY

UnpasteurisedgoatrsquosmilkwithtraditionalanimalrennetMadeinStawleynearWellingtonSomersetbyCarolineAtkinsonfromhand-ladledcurdsCarolinersquoshusbandWilllooksaftertheirherdofgoatsAmixofmorningandeveningmilksthisbeautifulcheesehasasofttextureandslightlyhoneyedflavourWeregularlyhavebillygoatsonourmenuthattheycannotuseonthefarm

TYMSBORO

UnpasteurisedgoatrsquosmilkwithtraditionalanimalrennetMadeonSleightFarmnearTimsburySomersetbyMaryHolbrookHandladledandmadeinflat-toppedpyramid-shapedValencaymouldsAseriouslysmooth-texturedcheesethetasteislemonnutsandtheinevitablegoatiness

texturedcheesethetasteislemonnutsandtheinevitablegoatiness

LordrsquosLovage

JasonMitchellmakesAshridgeSparklingCideronBarkingdonFarmnearTotnesinDevonwithapplesfromhisunsprayedorchardsHeusesthemeacutethodechampeacutenoisewhichconsistsofatwo-stagefermentFirsttheciderisfermentedusingwildyeaststhenaftersixmonthsitismixedwithchampagneyeastandcanesugarandtransferredtochampagnebottleswhereitundergoesasecondaryfermentationThebottlesarestoredataconsistentlylowtemperatureforayearThisresultsinciderwithveryfinebubblesmuchlikechampagneMixingJasonrsquosciderwithourlovagesyrupwasanextremelygoodidea

HarvestingthesepreciousseedsisapleasureandfindingmoreandmorerecipesforthemisevenbetterThelovagesyrupdespiteitssweetnessaddsa

savourybackgroundnote

SERVES1

125mlAshridgeSparklingCider

FORTHELOVAGESYRUP

1tbsplovageseeds(or1tbspchoppedlovageleaves)150mlcastersugar

Tomakethelovagesyrupplacethelovageandsugarinapanwith150mlwaterandheatgentlystirringtodissolvethesugarBringtoasimmerthenremovefromtheheatandleavetocoolThesyrupwillkeepinthefridgeforupto2weeks

Tomadethedrinksimplypour25mlofthelovagesyrupintoachampagnefluteandtopupwiththecider

daggerLeavingtheciderontheyeastsediment(lees)givesthedrinkitscharacteristictoast-likeflavourThissedimentisremovedbyinvertingthebottlesusingapupitreoveramonthFinallythetopinchofthebotttlecontainingthesedimentisfrozenandremovedandamixtureofciderandsugarisaddedtoreplaceitThereisevidencetosuggestthatthismethodofsecondaryfermentationsoprecioustochampagneproducersbeganwithciderduringtheseventeenthcenturyinEnglandIthasbeenassociatedwithtwoindividualsLordScudamoreandJamesMerretandveryfinegentlemantheyweretoo

AppleFlip

JackdranksomethingsimilartothisattheHindsHeadrestaurantinBrayandwhenhearrivedbackatBarleyWoodheputtogetherthisversionTheflipisarefineddescendentoftheeggdrinksthatwereastapleinAmericaupuntilthemiddleofthenineteenthcenturyEarlyflipswereamixtureofbeerrumeggandsugarpouredfromcontainertocontainertoaeratethemAred-hotpokerwouldthenbeplungedintotheflipcausingittofrothand

red-hotpokerwouldthenbeplungedintotheflipcausingittofrothandaddingaburntcaramelflavourWehavenottriedthisyetbutitbecomesincreasinglytemptingafterafewflipsInEnglandthisstyleofdrinkneverachievedthepopularitythatithadincolonialAmericaalthoughtheegg-baseddrinksofChristmasareareminderoftheseoldstylesWeparticularlyliketheapplejuiceandbrandyblendsmadebyJulian

TemperleyofTheSomersetCiderBrandyCompanyAswellassomeexcellentvintagesofbrandyandciderhehascreatedtwodrinksKingstonBlackandPomonaKingstonBlackisslightlysweeterandissimilarinmanywaystoaPineaudesCharentesorwhiteport

SERVES1

45mlKingstonBlack25ml3-year-oldSomersetCiderBrandy20gcastersugar1free-rangeeggasmallgratingofnutmegalargechunkoficeorenoughicecubestofillacocktailshakerbytwothirds

CombinealltheingredientsexceptthenutmegandiceintheglasspartofaBostonshakerPlacethetinontopandtaptosecureitthenshakevigorouslyBreakaparttheshakerandthenpourthecontentsfromashighupasyoudarebackintothemetalhalfoftheshakerThisaddsevenmoreairtothedrinkDropintheicendashifyouhavealargechunkthiswillchillthedrinkwithoutdilutingittoomuchandwillalsogiveasmoother-texturedflipShakeuntilthesidesoftheshakercondensethenpourtheflipintoaglassusingaHawthornestrainerFinishwithafinegratingofnutmeg

TheOrchardatBarleyWood

BarleyWoodrsquosmainorchardwasthefirstpartoftheWalledGardenwesawwhenwecametolookataprospectiverestaurantwewerethinkingoftakingoverAtfirstsighttheorcharddidnotstandoutasbeingparticularlydifferentfromothersintheareabutafterwehadwalkedaroundwebecamecaptivatedbythehistorybehinditIthadamesmerisingsenseofalivingpastthathadsurvivedthetestoftimendashandcouldcontinuewellintothefutureOurbusinesswasfoundedonthebeliefthatcookingwithlocalseasonalproducewasaprincipleworthstrivingforandhereitwasndashaplacethatperfectlyepitomisedthisidealwiththeorchardatthecentreofitallHavingaccesstotheorchardandthebarnwherethejuicewouldbe

pressedbecameoneofthemostexcitingfacetsofthenewprojectwehadembarkeduponWewouldhavetheopportunitytoplayapartinreignitingthepassionfortheBritishapplendashandwhatbetterproducetoshowcaseour

thepassionfortheBritishapplendashandwhatbetterproducetoshowcaseourbeliefinlocalseasonalproducethantheappleitselfApplesaremostcertainlyseasonalbutalsoextremelyversatileastheykeepwellformanymonthsifyoustorethemproperlyTheygrowwellwithouttheuseofpesticidesorfertilisersastheunsprayedorchardatBarleyWooddemonstratesThereareover70typesofapplegrowingtheremakingitanexcellentlivingmuseumthatfeaturessomeofthebestvarietiesaroundApplesarefascinatingfruitsTheirgeneticmake-upissocomplexthatif

youweretoeatanapplefromaspecifictreeandplantapipfromithopingtoreproducethattreeitishighlyunlikelythatyouwouldendupwiththesamevarietyThisgeneticcharacteristiciswhatledtotheproliferationofvarietiesalthoughnotnecessarilytheonespeoplemostwantedtoeatTheancientprocesscalledgraftingallowedpeopletoreplicatethemostsought-aftervarietiesThissimpleyeteffectivetechniqueconsistsofmakinganincisioninthetree(knownasthestock)andinsertingasegmentofthedesiredtree(calledthescion)ThegraftisthensecuredwithtapeandcoveredwithtartopreventanywaterpenetrationWhatseemstobeafairlyrudimentaryoperationhasworkedremarkablywellforcenturiesThetechniquewasfirstusedbytheChinesebefore2000BCandsubsequentlyinAncientGreeceIntheUKwehavetheVictorianstothankforthemanyvarietiesof

applesthatgrowhereThekeencompetitivespiritofgardenersonVictorianestatessuchasBarleyWoodledthemtoproduceawiderangeoffruitandvegetablessomeofwhicharestillverypopulartodayThereweresomanyapplevarietiesaroundatthattimethatitwouldhavebeenpossibletoeatadifferentappleeachdayforsixyearsCurrentlythereareover2300varietiesofapplespreservedinthe

NationalFruitCollectionatBrogdaleinKentndashalthoughsadly70percentofapplessoldintheUKtodayareimportedApplevarietiesthatkeepwellanddonotbruisewhentransportedhavepushedmanyothertypesoffthemarketOneofouraimsattheWalledGardenistoshowcasethedifferentvarietiesinourcookinginthehopethatthiswillpromotediversityandencouragepeopletoplanttheirfavouritevarietyintheirgardenThesameappliestoourjuicewhichiscarefullyblendedfromtheapplevarietiesthatcomplementeachotherbestNotwobatchesarethesamesincewepresstheapplesastheybecomeripesotheearlierbatcheswilltastedifferentfromtheonesmadepredominantlyfromlate-seasonapplesThejuiceistrulyanartisanproductmadeinamanualwoodenpresssituatedinabarnatthe

artisanproductmadeinamanualwoodenpresssituatedinabarnatthebottomoftheWalledGardenHereisabrieflistofsomeofourfavouritevarietieswhichdeservegreaterrecognition

AshmeadrsquosKernelBlenheimOrangeCheddarCrossMorganSweetOldSomersetRussetJamesGrieveRibstonPippinLaxtonrsquosEpicureTydemanrsquosLateOrangeSummerGoldenPippin

MAKINGAPPLEJUICE

TheapplesarecollectedinseparatetrugsaccordingtotheirvarietythenplacedonametaltableandcleanedthoroughlywithapowerfuljetwashTheyaresubsequentlymovedtoanelectricscratterwhichislikeagiantgraterintheshapeofafunnelThegratedappleisplacedinawoodenframeontopofalsquocheeseclothrsquondasheffectivelyasievethatpreventsanygratedapplepassingthroughndashthenputontopofthewoodenpressTheprocessisrepeateduntilwehavestackedupsevenoreightframesofroughlyonevarietyofappleThismeansitistimetowinddownthepressndashanexhaustingbuthighlyrewardingstageoftheprocessastheblendedapplejuicestartsflowingandyoucanseetheresultofallofyourhardworkMoreimportantlyitisnowtimetodosometastingtoensurethatthejuiceispalatableThisisalsowhenbetsareplacedabouthowmanybottleswewillmakeonthisoccasionWiththehelpofabottlefillerwedecantthejuiceintoglass

bottlesWeliketouseclearglassasitshowsthewonderfulambercolourofthejuiceMostproducersaddascorbicacidtopreventoxidationThisresultsinagreencolourwhichwearetoldistheshadeofapplejuicethepublicisusedtoWedefiantlybelievethatthenaturalambercolourofthejuiceisbeautifulandshouldbecelebratedsoweomittheascorbicacidThebottlesareplacedinapasteurisingunitsetatover70degC

for20minutestoensurethatwecankeepthejuiceforuptoayear

MAKINGAPPLEJUICEATHOME

OnaverysmallscaleathomeyoucanmakeapplejuiceUseajuiceextractorifyouhaveoneorablenderandasieveThisisthesimplestmethodandisconvenientifyouhaveatreeinyourbackgardensoyoucanpickjusttheapplesthatyouneedforthatdayThejuicewillkeepforadayifstoredinthefridgebutwithoutpasteurisationyouwonrsquotbeabletokeepitformuchlongerIfyouareinterestedinlarger-scaleproductionathomeyou

canbuyatablepresswithacapacityofanythingfrom5to40litresDependingonitssizeyoumightneedtocuttheapplesupbeforepressingthemTopasteurisethejuicesimplyplaceitinasaucepanandheatuntilitreachesatemperatureofjustover70degCthenkeepitatthistemperaturefor20minutesYouwillneedtoinvestinagoodthermometertoensurenotonlythatthecorrecttemperatureisreachedbutthatitismaintainedfortherequiredtimeTransfertosterilisedbottlesAlternativelyyoucanpasteurisethejuiceinsterilisedbottles

thatarespecificallydesignedtowithstandtheheatofpasteurisationFillthemwiththejuice(butleavethelidsoff)TakealargedeeppanthatwillholdthebottlesstandinguprightandfillitwithwaterHeatuntilthetemperaturereaches70degCthenaddthebottlesandcheckthetemperatureofthewateragainOnceithasreturnedto70degCleavethebottlesfor20minutesthenremoveandscrewthelidsonThisprocesswillallowyoutokeepthejuiceforuptoayear

daggerWithover70applevarietiesintheorchardsattheWalledGardenittooksometimeuntilwecouldtriumphantlysaythatwehadsampledeachandeveryoneofthemSadlyMorganSweetwasnotavarietythatwechosetosamplefirstItisdreary-lookingandwebecametoosmittenwithAshmeadKernelstospareanytimeforothertypesWegotsuspiciousaboutthesehiddengemswhenanelderlycouplecameintothegardenslookingspecificallyforMorganSweetsThatyearwehadacopiouscropandgladlyletthemhaveabucketfulAfterthecouplersquosthirdvisitwethoughtwehadbettertrythemBecausetheywerelabelledasciderapplesweexpectedthemtobetoosharptoeatAsinglemouthfulwasenoughtoputtheirnameintocontextMorganSweetswerepopularinSomersetinthefirsthalfofthetwentiethcenturyOuroldercustomerstellustheywerecherishedtreatsduringtheWarwhenfoodwasscarceWealsohearofMorganSweetsbeinggreatscrumpingprizessovaluableat

wartimethattreelocationswerekeptsecrettoensureasteadysupplyforthoseintheknowTheseapplesareextremelyjuicywhenripeandweinitiallyaddedthem

toourapplejuicetobalancethesournessofearlycropsWewouldlovetoseearevivalofMorganSweetapplesintheUKifonlyasapoignantreminderofhowcertainvarietiesbecomeunfairlypigeonholedasdessertcidercookingtypes

SalsifyandOgleShieldGratin

ThesalsifyatBarleyWoodgrowsoppositethemainentrancetotherestaurantItisstunningtolookatespeciallywhenitsdelicateflowersturnintoanenormouslysoftdandelionastheygotoseedSeeingitdailyforawholeseasonencouragesustoincludeitineveryformofrecipeWecameupwiththisdishwhenagardeningmagazineaskedusto

produceasetoflunchtimerecipesforgardenerstoeatwhileatworkndashsomethingthatcouldbepreparedinadvancebutenjoyedoutdoorsItwasoriginallyintendedtobeeatencoldHoweverassoonasweaddedthecheeseittookonawholenewdimensionandwebecameconvincedthatourconcoctionhadtoeatenwhilestillhotOgleShieldisaworthySomersetequivalenttoFrenchracletteItmelts

verywellandinouropinionisoneofthebestcheesesforgratinsWedareanyonewhodoesnotlikecheesetotryameltingsliceofOgleShieldIthastheabilitytoturnanycheesescepticintoatrueturophile

SERVES4ndash6

1tbspcidervinegar600gsalsify200mlwhitewine800mlvegetablestock(seehere)200gOgleShieldcheese(orraclette)50gbutter65gplainflour

2tbspdoublecreamfrac12nutmegfinelygratedseasaltandfreshlygroundwhitepepper

Heattheovento180degCGasMark4FillalargebowlwithwaterandaddthevinegartoitWorkingquicklypeelthesalsifyandwashthoroughlyundercoldwaterCutitinto10cmlengthsandthenslicethemthinlylengthwayspreferablyonamandolinetoachieve10cmbatonsAssoonaseachlengthhasbeenslicedplaceittheacidulatedwaterThiswillpreventthesalsifyoxidisingandturningbrown

PutthewhitewineandvegetablestockinapanandbringtotheboilStrainthesalsifyaddtothepanandcookfor6ndash8minutesuntilitistenderbutretainsaslightbiteStrainthesalsifyretainingthecookingliquorReturntheliquortothepanandboiluntilreducedbytwothirds

Meanwhilethinlyslice150gofthecheeseandgratetherestArrangealayerofsalsifyinagratindishapproximately23cmtimes13cmcompletelycoveringthebaseAddanotherlayerofsalsifyfollowedbyathinlayerofOgleShieldslicesandrepeatuntilallthesalsifyandslicedcheesehavebeenadded

MeltthebutterinasaucepanaddtheflourandstirtomakeathickpasteGraduallypourinthereducedcookingliquorstirringconstantlyYoumaynotneedalltheliquidndashstopwhentheconsistencyislikesinglecreamStirinthedoublecreamthenaddthenutmegandsomesaltandpeppertotaste

SlowlypourthesauceoverthelayeredgratinCoverthedishwithfoilplaceintheovenandbakefor25minutesRemovethefoilsprinklethegratedcheeseoverthetopandplaceunderahotgrilluntilthecheesehasmeltedandbeguntobrown

VincentCastellanorsquosVenisonChorizo

OurfriendVincentCastellanoputtogetherthisrecipeforwhenwehaveahealthy-sizedroebuckinthekitchenHebeganhiscareerasapot-washeratacharcuterieinGrenobleintheearly1970sSeeingwholepigsarrivingonaMondayandleavingasterrinespacircteacutessalamiandhamsjustafewdayslaterinspiredhimtoturnasummerjobintoatwo-yearapprenticeshipHemovedtotheUKin1983andworkedasachefsincetherewerefewopportunitiesforcharcutiersthenItisonlyinthelastdecadethathehastakenuphisoriginalprofessionfulltimeonceagainfirmlydeclaringlsquoItiswhatIknowbestrsquoTheUKhasneverdevelopedatraditionofcuredsausagesforthesimple

reasonithasadampclimateInsteadwehavebecomeexpertsatmakingfreshsausagesThecountrieswithacultureofdry-curedmeatsarelargelyconfinedtomountainousregionswithaprevailingdrywindfromthenorthTheSpanishhavedevelopedaparticularskillincuringthathasevolvedinpartduetotheiridealweatherconditionsTherecipewehavedevelopedwithVincentisbasedonatraditionalcured

SpanishchorizocontainingpaprikasmokedpaprikaandgarlicOurversionalsoincludesturmericclovesjunipercorianderandsmokedchilliplusourownsloeginAlternativelyourhousevermouth(seehere)worksbeautifullyBothofferagentlebackgroundflavourDuringautumnwemakethechorizowithneckandshouldercutsfromaroebuckDuetoitslowfatcontentadditionalfatisneededsoweaddporkbellyandbackfattakenfromGloucesterOldSpotpigsThesausageishungfor6ndash7weeksduringwhichtimeitisfermentedbylactic-producingbacteriaTheincreaseinacidandtheparalleldehydrationcoupledwiththehighsaltcontentpreservethechorizowhileintensifyingitsflavourForthecasingVincentusesoxrunnersanaturalporouscasingdistinguishedbyitsgentlecurveTheingredientsbelowaregiveninrelationto1kgoftotalmeatA

manageableamounttomakeis3kgwhichwillfilla3-metrelengthofhogcasing(32mmdiameter)ora15-metrelengthofoxrunners(50ndash55mmdiameter)ThequantityofcuringsaltiscriticalbutalltheotherspicescanbeadjustedaccordingtotasteThecuringsaltcontainssaltpetrewhichpreservesthecolourofthemeatandinhibitsunwelcomebacterialgrowth

Youwillneedasausagemakeroramixerwithasausage-makingattachmentThesecanbeboughtonlinefromwwwweschenfeldercoukwhichalsosellscuringsaltandcasingsAlltheequipmentusedformakingthesausagesshouldbesterilisedfirst

hogcasings(forsmallerchorizo)oroxrunners(forlargerones)alittlevinegar

EACHKILOOFMEATSHOULDCONSISTOFTHEFOLLOWING

800gbonelessvenisonshoulderbellyflapandneckmeat100gporkbelly100gporkbackfat

FORTHESEASONINGS(ALLCALCULATEDPERKILOOFMEAT)

25gcuringsalt20mlsloeginorvermouth20gpaprika5gsmokedpaprika3gsmokedchillipowder1gcayennepepper1gturmeric2ggarlicpowderfrac14tspgroundcumin1ggroundcorianderfrac14tspgroundcloves⅛tspgroundjuniper⅛tspgroundstaranise

ThoroughlywashthesaltoffthecasingsthensoaktheminalargeplastictubofcoldwaterforatleastanhourChangethewateradding1partvinegarto40partswaterandsoakfor30minutesbeforeuse

Cutallthemeatinto3ndash5cmpiecesplaceinabowlandaddthecuringsaltMixthoroughlyandthenstoreinthefridgefor24hoursMixinthealcoholandreturntothefridgeforafurther24hours

Mincethemeatonthefinesettingofamincer(an8mmmincingplate)ensuringthatthetemperatureremainsbelow8degCAddtheremainingseasoningsandmixuntilalltheingredientsadheretogetherthenpressthemixdownfirmlywithyourhandsinordertopushoutasmuchairaspossiblePlaceinasausagefiller

Ifusingoxrunnerscuttheminto30cmlengthsbeforefillingHogcasingscanbefilledcontinuouslyandtiedinto15cm-longsausages

MakeaknotatoneendofyourchosencasingslidetheotherendoverthenozzleofthesausagefillerandfillgraduallyensuringenoughtensioniskeptRemovefromthefillerandtietheendastightlyaspossiblewithstringmakingaloopinitwithwhichtohangthesausagePricktheskinwithaneedletoletoutanyairpockets

Hangthechorizoatroomtemperature(ideally25degC)for24hoursAfterthisstagethechorizocanbeusedforcookingIfyouwantacuredsausagemovethechorizotohanginacoolplace(preferably12ndash14degC)withahumiditylevelof80percentndashyoucanbuyhygrometersingardencentreswithwhichtocheckthehumidityOverthenextfewdaysawhitelsquomouldrsquoshoulddevelopontheskinMaturationcantakefrom3weeks(forhogcasings)to7weeks(foroxrunners)ItrsquosworthcheckingyourchorizoonadailybasisBecauseitisdependentontemperaturehumiditylevelsandthelengthanddiameterofthesausagethematurationtimewillvaryWhenthechorizoisreadyitwillfeelfirmwhensqueezedIfyousliceitwithasharpknifethemeatshouldholdtogetherwellTheskincanbeeatenorremovedasyoupreferTheflavourofthechorizoshouldbeintensewithagoodacidityandsweetnessandspiceflavourscomingthroughintheaftertasteItwillkeepwellinthebottomofthefridgewrappedinfoiloracleanclothforuptoamonth

BASICRECIPES

Stocks

AgoodstockisavitalcomponentofyourrepertoireStockformsthebaseofcountlessdishesandhavingastockthatpacksamassivepunchofflavourmeansthatyouarehalfwaytocreatingadeliciousmealInvestingalittlebitoftimeandmoneyinstockisaworthycauseandweguaranteeyouitwillimproveyourcookingnoendManypeoplendashchefsincludedndashonlyusebonesforstock-makingWelike

tousetheslightlytoughermoreflavourfulcutsofmeatndashtheycanboostastockrsquoscomplexityandtheyrsquorealsoquitecheaptheymaycostalittlemorethanbonesbuttheextraflavourmorethanmakesupforitCombinethatwithagoodratioofvegetablesandherbstweakingthesweetnessorfreshnessaccordingtotasteIainlikestousemorecarrotsonionsandgarlictoachieveasweeterresultHerbscanbeaddedattheveryendaddingfreshnesstothebaseflavourYoucanevenaddthemasawarminfusionrightatthelastsecondThisgivesyougreatcontrolovertheflavourofthestockYoucanmaketherecipesinthisbookforimmediateuseordoubleor

triplethequantitiesandfreezemostinsmallbatchesforupto3monthsIfyoudevotehalfadayorsoeverymonthtomakingstocksyoushouldhaveaconstantsupplyinthefreezerAsalwaysusetheserecipesasaguideandonceyouunderstandthebasicprinciplesexperimentSomeofourdisheshaveundergonecountlessreinventionstogetthemtowheretheyarenowWemakeallourstocksinthepressurecooker(formoreonpressurecookingandwhywedothisseehere)

BeefStock

YIELDSABOUT2KG

1kgbeefboneschoppedinto25ndash5cmpieces(askyourbutchertodothis)600goxtailsectioned

rapeseedoil

rapeseedoil360gonionsfinelysliced1kgbeefshinorchuckchoppedinto25cmcubes220gcarrotsfinelysliced130gbuttonmushroomsfinelysliced220gtomatoesslicedfrac12smallheadofgarlicseparatedintoclovesandsmashedwiththeflatsideofaknifeHeattheovento180degCGasMark4LightlyandthoroughlyrubthebonesandtheoxtailwithrapeseedorvegetableoilPlaceinaroastingtray(orseparateroastingtraysifnecessary)androastfor45ndash60minutesturningthepiecesevery15minutesuntildarkgoldenbrownIfanypartsoftheoxtailbecomebrownbeforeeverythingelseremovefromtheovenandsetaside

MeanwhilecoatthebottomofapressurecookerwithrapeseedoilandplaceoveramediumheatAddtheonionsandcookoveramedium-lowheatuntildarkandcaramelisedndashthiswilltakeabout30ndash45minutesstirringregularlyandscrapinganystickybitsfromthebottomofthepanDonotallowtoburnTakeofftheheatandallowtocool

HeatafryingpanuntilextremelyhotAddafilmofrapeseedoiltheoilshouldbegintosmokeIfitdoesnotthenkeepontheheatuntilsmokinghotAddthebeefshinorchuckandcookturninguntildarkbrownonallsidesavoidingburningTakethemeatoutofthepanandsetasideDrainanyfatoutofthepanbeforeplacingthepanbackonahighheatAddenoughwatertocoverthebaseofthepanandbringtotheboilScrapeawayanyleftoversthatarestucktothebottomofthepanAddthisdeglazingliquidtothepressurecooker

WipeoutyourfryingpanaddafilmofrapeseedoilandplaceoveramediumheatAddthecarrotsandfryuntilsoftandlightlygolden(about20ndash30minutes)AddthecarrotstothecookedonionsalongwiththemushroomsandsetasideuntilreadytouseDeglazethepanusingthesamemethodasaboveandaddtheliquidtothepressurecooker

RepeatingtheprocessfrythetomatoesinoiluntiltheytakeonsomecolourscrapingoffanystickybitsfromthebottomofthepanAddthegarlicandfryforafurthercoupleofminutesensuringnothingburnsAddthe

fryforafurthercoupleofminutesensuringnothingburnsAddthetomatoesandgarlictothepressurecookeranddeglazethefryingpanwithwaterasbeforeAddthedeglazingliquidtothepressurecooker

RemovethebonesfromtheovenwhentheyareadeepgoldencolourPouroffanyexcessfatfromtheroastingtrayPlacethebonesandoxtailinthepressurecookerPuttheroastingtray(s)overahighheatDeglazewithwaterasbeforeandaddtheliquidtothepressurecooker

AddenoughwatertothepressurecookersothattheingredientsareonlyjustcoveredPlaceoveramedium-highheatandbringtoagentlesimmerskimmingawayanyfatandimpuritiesthatrisetothesurfaceOnceatagentlesimmerplacethelidonthepressurecookerandturntheheatuptofullAllowthepressurecookertocometofullpressurebeforereducingtheheatCookatfullpressurefor2hoursRemovefromtheheatandallowthepressurecookertocooltoroomtemperaturebeforeremovingthelidStrainthestockthroughtwolayersofwetmuslinImmediatelychillinabowlsetoveranotherbowlfilledwithiceRemovethelayeroffatthatformsbeforeusingUsewithin4daysorfreezeforupto3months

Whitechickenstock

WeusewhitechickenstockwhenwewantagreatbaseflavourthatdoesnrsquotoverpowerthetasteorcolourofothermoredelicateingredientsItismoresubtlethanourbrownchickenstock(seehere)Thevegetablesaregentlysoftenedandthebonesbrieflyblanchedtoremoveanyimpuritiesthenpressurecookedfor90minutesItisgreatforrisottossoupsandsauces

YIELDSABOUT2KG

15kgchickenwingschoppedinto3ateachjointrapeseedoil300gonionsfinelysliced150gcarrotsfinelysliced120gbuttonmushroomsfinelysliced4garlicclovessmashedwiththeflatsideofaknifePutthechickenwingsinasaucepanandcoverwithcoldwaterPlaceonamediumheatandbringtotheboilskimmingoffanyscumthatrisestothesurfaceOnceboiling

totheboilskimmingoffanyscumthatrisestothesurfaceOnceboilingdrainimmediatelydiscardingthewaterRinsethewingsthoroughlyundercoldwater

Coatthebottomofapressurecookerwithafilmofrapeseedoilandplaceoveramedium-lowheatAddallthevegetablesandcookuntilsoftenedwithoutcolouringthiswilltakeabout10ndash15minutesAddthechickenwingsandenoughcoldwaterjusttocoverPlaceonamedium-highheatandbringtoagentlesimmerskimmingawayanyfatandimpuritiesthatrisetothesurfaceOnceatagentlesimmerplacethelidonthepressurecookerandturntheheatuptofullAllowthepressurecookertocometofullpressurebeforereducingtheheatCookatfullpressurefor90minutes

RemovefromtheheatandallowtocooltoroomtemperaturebeforeremovingthelidStrainthroughtwoormorelayersofwetmuslinoraveryfinechinoisorsieveImmediatelychillinabowlsetoveranotherbowlfilledwithice(orputstraightintothefridge)Usewithin4daysorfreezeforupto3months

BrownChickenStock

YIELDSABOUT2KG

2kgchickenwingschoppedinto3ateachjointafewtablespoonsofskimmedmilkpowder(seeboxbelow)rapeseedorgroundnutoil

300gonionsfinelysliced150gcarrotsfinelysliced150gbuttonmushroomsfinelysliced4garlicclovessmashedwiththeflatsideofknife(or2wetgarlicclovesifavailableandinseason)Heattheovento200degCGasMark6PlacethewingsinaroastingtrayevenlyspreadinasinglelayerandsprinkleoverenoughmilkpowdertolightlycoatthemRoastfor45ndash60minutesturningevery15minutesuntilthewingsareabeautifuldarkbrowncolourThefirsttimeyouturnthewingsgivethepaleundersidealightsprinklingofmilkpowdertooThiswillensurethewingsareanevencolourandimpartmoreflavourintothestock

PlacethepressurecookeroveramediumheattogetitwarmbeforeaddingenoughrapeseedoiltocoverthebottomAddtheonionsReducetoamedium-lowheatandcooktheonionsuntilstickyandcaramelisedthiswilltakeabout30ndash45minutesStirthemregularlytakingcarenottoletthemburnandadjustingtheheatasneededScrapeanystickybitsoffthebottomofthepanWhentheonionsarecaramelisedaddthecarrotsandcookuntilsoftRemovefromtheheatandaddthemushroomsandgarlicSetaside

WhenthewingsareevenlycolouredremovefromtheovenanddrainthefatfromthetrayPlaceallthewingsintothepressurecooker

PlacetheroastingtrayoverahighheatandaddacoveringofwaterandbringtotheboilScrapeoffthestickybitsofmeatwithaspatulaorwoodenspoonPourthedeglazingliquidandcrispybitsofmeatintothepressurecooker

AddenoughcoldwatertothepressurecookertojustcoverthebonesPlaceonamedium-highheatandbringtoagentlesimmerskimmingawayanyfatandimpuritiesthatrisetothesurfaceOnceatagentlesimmerplacethelidonthepressurecookerandturntheheatuptofullAllowthepressurecookertocometofullpressurebeforereducingtheheatCookatfullpressurefor2hours

RemovefromtheheatandallowtocoolnaturallytoroomtemperaturebeforereleasingthelidRemovethelidbeforestrainingthestockthroughseverallayersofwetmuslinorthroughaveryfinechinoisorsieveRefrigerateimmediatelyremovingthelayeroffatfromthetopbeforeuseUsewithin4daysorfreezeforupto3months

UsingmilkpowdertodustthewingsmayseemalittleoddbutthemilkpowderisextraproteinthatbooststheMaillard

Reaction(thebrowningonmeatthatgivesititscharacteristicflavour)ItisarevelationItgivestheliquidanextrahitof

meatinessandresultsinastockthatisarichdeepbrownItrsquosanexcellentandsimplewayofboostingyourstockrsquosflavourprofile

Fishstock

YIELDSABOUT1KG

rapeseedoil100gonionfinelysliced80gcarrotsfinelysliced80gbuttonmushroomfinelysliced1tspfennelseed1tspcorianderseed1kgfishbones(avoidoilyfishlikemackereltroutorsalmon)PlaceapressurecookeroveramediumheatandaddathinfilmofrapeseedoilAddalltheingredientsexceptthefishbonesandcookuntilsoftenedndashthiswilltakeabout5ndash10minutesAddthefishbonestothepressurecookerandaddenoughcoldwaterjusttocover

Placeoveramedium-highheatandbringtoagentlesimmerskimmingoffanyimpuritiesthatrisetothesurfaceOnceatagentlesimmerplacethelidonthepressurecookerandturntheheatuptofullAllowthepressurecookertocometofullpressurebeforereducingtheheatCookatfullpressurefor20minutesRemovefromtheheatandallowtocooltoroomtemperatureStrainthroughtwolayersofwetmuslinintoabowlsetoveranotherbowlfilledwithiceRefrigerateforupto3daysorfreezeforupto1month

VegetableStock

ThisvegetablestockisdelicatesweetandlightlyaromaticItrsquosgreatinrisottossoupsstewsandformakingvegetariansaucesForconveniencemakeatleastdoublethisrecipeandfreezesmallerquantitiesforuseatalaterdate

YIELDSABOUT1KG

rapeseedorvegetableoil550gonionsfinelysliced500gcarrotfinelysliced500gmushroomsfinelysliced(buttonorbrown)200gceleryfinelysliced10garliccloves(or1smallgarlicbulb)smashedwiththeflatsideofaknife2tbspcorianderseed

1tbspfennelseeds4wholestaranises2tspblackpeppercorns2bayleaves

PlaceapressurecookeroveramediumheatandaddathinfilmofrapeseedoilAddallthevegetablestothepanandsweatfor5ndash10minutesuntilthevegetableshavesoftenedAddallthespicesandbayleavesandcoverwithwaterAddthelidandturntheheatuptofullBringtofullpressureandthenreducetheheatCookatfullpressurefor15minutesRemovefromtheheatandallowtocooltoroomtemperature

RemovethelidandpassthestockthroughtwolayersofwetmuslinRefrigerateimmediatelyandusewithin5daysorfreezeforupto3months

MushroomStock

ThismushroomstockisoneofthemoresimplestocksthatyouwillcomeacrossutilisingonlytwoingredientsItssimplicitydoesnotdetractfromitsabilitytoimpartarichumamiflavourintothedish(seehere)ortohelpboostthistasteindishesalreadyrichinumami

YIELDSABOUT500G

500gbuttonorportobellomushroomsfinelysliced500gcoldwater

PutthemushroomsandwaterinapressurecookerandplaceoverahighheatBringtofullpressurebeforeturningtheheatdowntolowCookatfullpressurefor15minutesbeforeturningtheheatoffAllowtocoolto

fullpressurefor15minutesbeforeturningtheheatoffAllowtocooltoroomtemperatureRemovethelidandstrainthestockthroughtwolayersofwetmuslinRefrigerateimmediately

Usewithin5daysorfreezeforupto3months

TomakethisstockwithoutapressurecookerplacetheingredientsinasaucepanandbringtoasimmerKeepatasteadysimmerfor20minutesbeforeremovingfromtheheatAllowtocoolbeforestrainingandrefrigeratingasabove

TheEthicureanSaladDressing

100grapeseedoil60gvintagecidervinegarsuchasOstlerrsquos8gDijonmustardfrac14tspxanthangum(optionalbutrecommended)

AddalltheingredientsexcepttheoiltoablenderorstickblenderjugBlitzonfullspeedfor30secondsbeforeslowlypouringintheoilasyouwouldtomakeamayonnaiseContinueaddinginathinsteadystreamuntilalltheoilisincorporatedBlitzforafurther30secondsonfullspeedRefrigerateforuptoaweek

TomakebyhandcombinealltheingredientsexcludingtheoilinabowlWhiskvigorouslyuntilairyGraduallyaddtheoilwhilewhiskinghard

DarkPlumChutney

MAKESABOUT1KG

550gplumshalvedandstoned450mlmaltvinegar550gdarkbrownsugar300gsultanas150gonionsfinelydiced

10ggarlicfinelydiced35gsalt10gmustardseeds15ggroundgingerfrac12tsponion(nigella)seedsfrac12tspgroundstaranisefrac12tspgroundcinnamon1blackcardamompod

Puttheplumsinalargeheavy-basedsaucepanorapreservingpanalongwiththevinegarandsugarSimmeruntilthefruitbreaksdownthenaddalltheremainingingredientsReturntoasimmerandcookforaround40minutesuntilthickenedStiroftenwhilebeingmindfulofsplashesIthasatendencytospitwhenitisclosetothecorrectconsistencyWhenitisreadyallthethinliquidwillhaveevaporatedandthechutneywillsmelldeeplyrichlikeliquorice

Pourcarefullyintohotsterilisedjars(seehere)andsealInvertthejarsforamomenttoensurethelidsaresterilisedthenturntherightwayupandleavetocoolwhileyouwritealabelforeachjar

PickledBeetroot

PreservingvegetableswithsaltandvinegarisinvaluabletoaseasonalkitchenThismethodalsosuitscarrotcauliflowerandanyotherfirmvegetablesThemethodofcalculatingthesaltandvinegarcontentinthismethodisadaptabletovaryingweightsofproduceandthereforegreatforseasonalglutsChangethespicestosuittheveg

450gpeeledbeetrootcubedinto1cmcubescidervinegarfineseasalt4staranise1tsppeppercorns1tspcuminseeds

1tspcuminseeds

Sprinklethebeetrootgenerouslywithsaltandleavefor1hourDrainandrinseundercoldwater

Placethebeetrootintoa500mlKilnerjarorliddedtupperwarecontainerPlacethecontaineronasetofscalesandsetthemtozero(orlsquotarersquo)CoverthecontentsinwaterandmakeanoteoftheweightDiscardthewaterWeighoutthesameamountofcidervinegarasittookwatertocoverthebeetrootCalculate10percentofthisweightandaddthatweightinsalt(eg200gofcidervinegarwouldrequire20gsalt)PlacethevinegarsaltandspicesinasaucepanoveramediumheatandbringtotheboilImmediatelypourthehotliquidoverthebeetrootinthejarorcontainerEnsurethebeetrootiscompletelycoveredbeforesealingthelidandallowingtocooltoroomtemperatureRefrigerateonceopenedItwillkeepforupto2months

PickledNasturtiumSeeds

AtthestartofNovemberasthefirstfrostsdescendthenasturtiumsthathavebeensousefulfortheirleavesandflowerswillbegintogotoseedAself-seedingplantsuchasthiswonrsquotmissafewseedpodssoweharvestasmanyaswecanandpicklethemasalsquopoormanrsquoscaperrsquo

asmanynasturtiumseedpodsasyoucanfindfineseasalt

PERLITREOFPICKLINGORCIDERVINEGAR

picklingorcidervinegar10gseasaltor10percentbyweightofvinegar2cloves4freshbayleaves5allspiceberries5blackpeppercorns

Sprinklethenasturtiumseedpodsgenerouslywithsaltandleavefor1hourDrainandrinseundercoldwater

Placethenasturtiumseedpodsintoa500mlKilnerjarorliddedtupperwarecontainerPlacethecontaineronasetofscalesandsetthemtozero(orlsquotarersquo)CoverthecontentsinwaterandmakeanoteoftheweightDiscardthewaterWeighoutthesameamountofcidervinegarasittookwatertocovertheseedpodsCalculate10percentofthisweightandaddthatweightinsalt(eg100gofcidervinegarwouldrequire10gsalt)PlacethevinegarsaltandspicesinasaucepanoveramediumheatandbringtotheboilImmediatelypourthehotliquidovertheseedpodsinthejarorcontainerEnsuretheseedpodsarecompletelycoveredbeforesealingthelidInvertthejarsforamomenttoensurethelidsaresterilisedbeforeallowingtocooltoroomtemperatureRefrigerateonceopenedandkeepforupto1month

PickledCarrots

250gcarrotscutinto1cmcubescidervinegar4blackcardamompods2tbspcorianderseedsseasalt

StartbygenerouslysprinklingthecubedcarrotswithsaltSetasidefor1hourforthemoisturetobedrawnout

DrainthecarrotsandrinseoffanyexcesssaltPlaceinatupperwarecontainerlargeenoughjusttoholdthemPlacethecontaineronasetofscalesandsetthemtozero(orlsquotarersquo)CoverthecontentsinwaterandmakeanoteoftheweightDiscardthewaterWeighoutthesameamountofcidervinegarasittookwatertocoverthecarrotsCalculate10percentofthisweightandaddthatweightinsalt(eg200gofcidervinegarwouldrequire20gsalt)PlacethevinegarandsaltinasaucepanwiththecardamomandcorianderandbringtotheboilOnceboilingremovefromtheheatandpouroverthecarrotsAllowtocooltoroomtemperaturebeforerefrigeratingThepickledcarrotswillkeepforupto4weeks

WinterFruitJelly

WehaveahedgerowthatreadslikeabookofautumnandwinterfruitsndashblackberrybullacedamsonhawthornloganberryrosehiprowanandsloePreservingthemasjelliesgivesusfreshburstsofvitaminCthroughthewinterandaddsdepthtodishescookedoverthecoldermonthsUsewhateverfruitsyouhaveinwhatevercombinationfollowingthis

basicmethodWehavefoundthatfreezingtheberriesfirstandthensteamingforjuiceextractionproducesasatisfyingclearjellyThesecondbenefittofreezingthefruitisthatyouwillhavealittlemoretimetoforagebeforemakingyourjellyWedevelopedthismethodafterwelearntthatrowanberriesrequire

freezingbeforeuseastheycontainparasorbicacidanacidthatisindigestibletohumansThisaciddegradestoasafesorbicacidwhenfrozenOursteambasketmethodforextractingjuicefromfruitprovedtobemoreeffectivewhenthefruithadspenttimeinthefreezerpresumablybecausethecellwallsarebrokendownbyfreezingtherebyreleasingmoreliquidatthesteamingstage

MAKESABOUT5JARSPERKGOFFRUIT

500ghedgerowfruit500gBramleyorcrabapplespeeledandroughlychopped(pipsandcoresleftin)750gcastersugarperlitrekgofjuice

30mlorganicpreservative-freelemonjuice(bottledjuicehasasetacidity)perlitrekgofjuiceYOUWILLALSONEED

ajamthermometerordigitalkitchenprobeasheetofmuslinsterilisedjamjarsandlidsorKilnerjars(seehereforinstructionsonsterilising)LineasteamingbasketwithafoldedpieceofmuslinthisisnotessentialthoughitwillallowonlyjuicetofallintothepanbelowaidingtheclarityofthefinishedjellyPlacethehedgerowfruitandBramleyorcrabapplesinthesteamingbasketandsteamoverapanofboilingwatersetoveramediumtolowheatfor1frac12hoursRemoveboththesteamerandwaterfromtheheatandleavetocoolanddrainovernight

ThenextdaycheckthatthefruitiswelldrainedYoucansqueezeanylastmoisturefromthemuslinbutthiswillmakethejellycloudyCompostordiscardthenowflavourlessfruit

MeasurethevolumeoftheliquidinthepanndashorbetterstillweighitforaccuracyndashandpourintoalargecleanstainlesssteelpanAdd750gofsugarand30mloflemonjuiceperkiloofliquidCookoverahighheatstirringuntilthesugarisdissolvedLeavetoboilvigorouslywithoutstirringfor10ndash20minutesandthencheckthetemperatureitshouldbearound102degCYouareaimingforasettingpointtemperatureofabout103ndash105degCIfyoudonrsquothaveathermometerputaspoonfulofthejamsyrupontoachilledplateandplaceinthefridgefor1minuteSlideyourfingeracrosstheplateintothedotofsyrupandseewhetheritcrinklesupandholdsformforamomentIfitdoesthenithasreachedsettingpointIfnotcontinuetocookthejellyoverthesamehighheattestingevery5minutesAperfectlysetjellyoncechilledwillonlygiveslightresistancetoaspoonandholdshape(Itisworthnotingthatajellythatisover-firmismoreusefulthanonethathasnotsetatallsountilyouareconfidentwithyourthermometeraimforthehigherendofthetemperaturesettingzone)Skimthejelly(oraddalittleknobofbutterandstir)toremoveanyscumthencarefullypourintowarmsterilisedjarsleavingacentimetreofspaceatthetopClosethelidstightlytheninvertthemfornomorethanaminutetoensurethelidisheatedwellandsterilisedReturntoanuprightpositionandleavetocoolbeforestoringinadarkcoolplaceforimmediateconsumptionoruptooneyear

VARIATIONS

CrabapplemedlarandquincewillworkperfectlywellwithoutadditionalpectinfromBramleyapplesbutbesuretoincludetheircoresandpipsduringsteamingandthecitrusduringcookingtosetthemYoucanincludeextraappletoincreasethevolumeifyoulikeQuinceneedtheirfinedownyhairswashingoffpriortocookingQuincejellyhaspineappleovertonesandanunbelievableamberglowwhenfinishedinthejarThemedlarsneedtobelsquoblettedrsquobeforeusingTheyfallfromthetreestillhardandneedtobeleftsomewherecooltogosoftsquishyandblackenedCrabapplejellyisagreatvehicleforotherherbswhichyoucanaddduringthesteamingprocessStaraniselavendertarragonrosemarymintandsageareallgreatandgeraniumleafworkedatreatwhenwetrieditonawhim

Flakypastry

MakingflakypastryisalengthybutrelativelysimpleprocessItrequires

MakingflakypastryisalengthybutrelativelysimpleprocessItrequiresrestingforanhourbetweeneachlsquoturnrsquo(aturnreferstoeachtimeithasbeenrolledoutbutterandlardaddedthenfoldedandreturnedtothefridge)AlwaysresistanyurgetokneadasthiswillmakethepastryelasticPerfect

flakypastryshouldbecrispandverylightWhatyouwantisapastrythatincorporatesthemultilayeredfatandpocketsofairthatcreatetheflakytexture

150gsaltedbutteratroomtemperaturebutnotoily150glardatroomtemperaturebutnotoily350gstrongwhiteflour1tspfineseasalt1frac12tsplemonjuice

Measureout200mlcoldwateraddahandfuloficecubesandsetaside

PutthebutterandlardinasmallmixingbowlandmixtogetherwithawoodenspoonThiswilltakesomeworkbuttheaimistogetthetwofairlyhomogenousWeighoutthree70gportionsandplaceeachinitsowndishCovertwoofthemwithclingfilmandplaceinthefridgeYouwillbeleftwith90gofbutterlardinthemixingbowlandonedishofbutterlardatyourside

SifttheflourandsaltintoabowlandaddthelemonjuiceAddthe90gfatleftinthemixingbowlthoroughlyscrapingthesidesofthebowlwithaspatulatogetallofitoutRubthefatintotheflourwithyourfingertipsuntilthemixtureresemblesroughbreadcrumbsIftherearestilllumpsoffatdonrsquotworryndashthiswillhelpcreateairpocketsinthepastryMakeawellinthecentreofthemixtureandplacethebowlontoweighingscalesKeepingbacktheicecubespourtheicedwaterintothecentreofthewellmakingsureyoudonrsquotaddmorethan200gMixthewaterintotheflourwitharound-bladedknifeuntilapliableslightlystickydoughhasformedTurnoutontoalightlyflouredworksurfaceShapethedoughroughlyintoacubeandusingarollingpinrollitoutawayfromyoutocreatearectangleapproximately30cmtimes15cm

Takethe70gfatthatdidnotgointhefridgebreakitroughlyapartintochunksanddotevenlyaroundthebottomtwothirdsoftherectangleFoldthetopthirdofpastryoverthemiddlethirdthenfoldupthebottomthirdof

thetopthirdofpastryoverthemiddlethirdthenfoldupthebottomthirdofpastryndashlikefoldingaletterSealtheleftandrightedgesandthensealthehorizontalfoldbypressingwithyourthumbandfingersUsingyourthumbmarkanindentinthecentreofthepastrylsquoenvelopersquoThisdotsignifiesthatitisthepastryrsquosfirstlsquoturnrsquoItrsquoswellworthdoingasrememberingwhereyoursquoreuptoafteralongafternooncanbechallengingWrapthepastryinclingfilmandplaceinthefridgeforatleast1hour

RemovethepastryfromthefridgeandgiveitaquarterturnanticlockwisesothatoneoftheshortersidesisnearesttoyouRollthepastryoutawayfromyoutoproduceanother30cmtimes15cmrectangleRepeattheprocesswithoneofthedishesofchilledlardandbutterfillingthebottomtwo-thirdsofthepastrywithdotsofthemixturethenfoldingsealingandmarking2indentsinthepastry(tosignifyitssecondlsquoturnrsquo)Wrapinclingfilmandreturntothefridgeforatleast1hour

RepeattheentireprocessusingthefinalramekinoffatrememberingtogivethepastryaquarterturnanticlockwiseMark3indentstosignifyitsthirdandfinalturnItisnotunusualforflakyorpuffpastrytohave6turnsThisistimeconsumingbutifyouwanttotryityouwillhaveanevenlighterflakierpastryIfoptingfortheextraturnsyouwillhaverunoutoffatattheendofyourthirdturnContinuerollingandfoldingasyouhavebeenbutwithouttheadditionoffatWestronglyrecommendthese3extraturnsastheextralayerswillresultinacrispierlessdensepastrythatisfarsuperior

Puffpastry

PuffpastryismadeinthesamewayastheFlakyPastryabovebutusingallunsaltedbutterinsteadofsaltedbutterandlard

CandiedPeel

1lemonpeeledwithallthewhitepithstillattachedtothepeel1bloodorangepeeledwithpithstillattached

1thumb-sizedpieceoffreshgingerpeeled500gcastersugar

PlacethecitruspeelandgingerinapancoverwithcoldwaterandbringtotheboiloveramediumheatDraindiscardingthewaterReturntothepancoverwithfreshwaterandbringslowlytotheboilagainthendrainRepeatthisprocessoncemore(ithelpstoextractthebitterness)thenplacethepeelandgingerinice-coldwaterfor10minutes

Meanwhileputthesugarinapanwith750mlcoldwaterandheatstirringoccasionallyuntilthesugarhasdissolvedRemovefromtheheatandsetaside

Cutthegingerandfruitsinto5mmcubesandaddthemtothesugarsyrupCookonthelowestpossibleheatfor6hoursathermometerwillbeusefulhereasyouneedtokeepthesyrupat70ndash80degCYoumayneedtohavethepanhalf-onhalf-offtheheatdependinghowhottheburnerisWhenthepeelisdoneitwillbesweetandsoftinathicksyrupStrainandleavetocoolthenstoreinanairtightcontainerItwillkeepforaboutamonth

coolthenstoreinanairtightcontainerItwillkeepforaboutamonth

EthicureanMixedSpice

10gallspiceberries2nutmegsgrated10gwholemace4gfennelseeds10gcloves4gcassia4gcardamomseeds2tspgroundcinnamon15ggranulatedsugar

Warmalltheingredientsexceptthecinnamonandsugarinaheavy-basedfryingpanuntilaverylightsmokeiscreatedandthearomasandoilsofthespicesarereleasedPlaceinaspicegrinderandblitztoafinepowderMixwiththecinnamonandsugarandthenstoreinanairtightcontainerItwillkeepforabout3months

SaltCaramel

200gcastersugar2tspflakyseasalt

Heattheovento120degCGasMarkfrac12Placeasiliconebakingmatonabakingsheetandputitintheoven(ifyoudonrsquothaveasiliconebakingmatputalayerofbakingparchmentonthetrayonceithasbeenheated)Haveasmallbowlofcoldwaterandasiliconepastrybrushattheready

Putthesugarintoameticulouslycleanfryingpanadd4tablespoonsofwaterandstiruntiltherearenodrypatchesofsugarPlaceonamedium-highheatandcookwithoutstirringThemixturewillstarttobubbleAsthetemperaturerisesthesugarwillbegintocarameliseincertainareasofthepanYoumayalsonoticeitbeginningtocrystallisearoundtheedgesofthe

panYoumayalsonoticeitbeginningtocrystallisearoundtheedgesofthepanIfleftuncheckedtheseareascancausethesyruptocrystalliseresultinginapanfullofgrainysugarcrystalsndashnotthedesiredresultTopreventthisbrushcoldwateroverthesecrystallisedpatchesontheedgesofthepanusingasiliconepastrybrushWhenthesugarbeginstocaramelisegentlyscrapethesedarkeningpatchesintothecentreofthepanusingaheatproofspatulaKeepgentlymovinganypatchesofcaramelisingsugarintoareasthatarenotcaramelisingThiswillensureanevencolourWhenthecaramelhasturnedagooddeepgoldencolour(ifyouuseasugarthermometeritwillregister178ndash180degCndashhoweveryoucankeepcheckingthetruecolourbydrippingafewdropsontoawhiteplate)pouritimmediatelyontoonesideofthesiliconematPreheatingthematmeansthatthecarameldoesnrsquotcooldownsoquicklywhenyoupouritonandthisallowsyoutotiltthebakingsheetinordertoachieveaverythinlayerofcaramelYouneedtoworkquicklyhoweverAssoonasthesugarbeginstocoolitwillstarttosetSprinkletheseasaltoverthecaramelwhileitisstillhot

Letthecaramelcooltoroomtemperaturethensnapitinto25ndash5cmshardsItshouldbebrittleWhenyoueatititshouldbecrunchyandnotsticktoyourteethKeepinanairtightcontainerinacooldryplaceforupto2weeks(caramelissusceptibletomoisturecontentandwillgoverystickyifexposedtoit)

Rhubarbsyrup

MAKESENOUGHTOFILLA700MLBOTTLE

500grhubarbwashedtrimmedandcutinto5cmpieces350gsugar

Placetherhubarbinasaucepanwith200mlcoldwaterBringtotheboilthenreducetoasimmerandcookuntilallofthejuicefromtherhubarbhasbeenextractedandtherhubarbisalmostcompletelybrokendownthiswilltakearound30minutes(pleasedonotwastethecookedrhubarbtryitwithporridgeorabowlofyoghurt)

StrainthecookedrhubarbthroughapieceofmuslinitcanbeleftforafewhoursPlacethestrainedliquidinacleansaucepanaddthesugarandbringtoasimmertodissolvethesugarforaround5minutesPourthehotliquidintoasterilisedbottleOnceopenedrefrigerateandconsumewithin2weeks

FRUITVINEGARS

Anyonewithaninterestinfoodhistoryandtheeffectcertainingredientshavehadonourcookingwouldagreethattheinventionofvinegarchangedtheculinarymapbeyond

recognitionTheoriginsofvinegardatebacktotheMiddleAgeswhenitsimportancecentredonitbeingatoolforfoodpreservation

PreservingfoodwascrucialforsurvivalparticularlyincountriespronetomoreextremeweatherVinegaralsohadthehighly

desirablequalityofbeingasubstituteforwinewhendilutedwithwaterwhichisperhapswhyRomansoldiersinsistedonitbeingpartoftheirrations(Brothwell1969pages160ndash2)AtthattimevinegarwasmanufacturedfromwinethathadgoneflatAncient

RomancookeryrecordssuchasApiciusafamousRomancollectioncompiledinthe4thor5thCenturyADmention

plentyofusesforvinegarAndsoitwasthattheimaginativelygluttonousRomansstartedusingvinegarasmuchmorethanapreservecreatingthenowcommonsaladdressingSuchwastheRomansrsquoloveofvinegarthattheymadesurethatnothingwaseatenwithoutasauceordressingTheobsessionwithvinegar

seemedtohavecarriedthroughtoElizabethantimeswhentherewereplentyofreportsoftheoverlyenthusiasticuseofvinegarinBritishcookingAfamousItaliannamedCastelvetromadea

pointofcomplainingaboutthestateofthesaladsinthiscountrywhichhefoundwereservedswimminginvinegarwithouteithersaltoroil(Wilson1973pages363ndash4)TheBritishindeedcameupwithSalamagundya17th-centurysaladinwhichvegetablesweredressedwithvinegaroilandsugar

(Wilson1973page360)

FriendsandSuppliersThissectionisdedicatedtopeoplewehavehadthepleasureofworkingwithoverthelastfewyearsmanyofwhomshareourbeliefsinsustainabilityandpreservingthethingsweenjoyforfuturegenerationsAshridgeCiderwwwashridgecidercoukAdrianBootswwwwalkthemendipscomAlbamClothingwwwalbamclothingcomAspallCiderVinegarwwwaspallcoukBarbourwwwbarbourcomBoxSteamBrewerywwwboxsteambrewerycoukBristolBeerFactorywwwbristolbeerfactorycoukBritishSaffronwwwbritishsaffroncoukCabritoGoatMeatwwwcabritogoatmeatcoukVincentCastellanorsquosCharcuteriewwwcastellanoscoukWilliamCatchesidewwwcatchesidecutlerycomChandosDeliwwwchandosdelicom

ChaseDistillerywwwchasedistillerycoukCheddarAleswwwcheddaralescoukTheCommunityFarmwwwthecommunityfarmcoukCorksofCothamwwwcorksofcomMarkCoxatBarleyWoodKitchenGardenwwwwalledgardencoukgarden1htmlCreedyCarverwwwcreedycarvercoukCrookandChurnDairy(JohnandKateHowell)ApplinsFarmBlandfordForumDorsetDT118RAJonathanCrumprsquosCheeseOrchardHouseStandishParkFarmOxlynchStonehouseGloucestershireGL103DGOtterFarm(MarkDiacono)wwwotterfarmcoukDiscoveryTortillaswwwdiscoveryfoodscoukDorsetBlueVinnywwwdorsetbluemoonfruitcomTheWatercressCompanywwwthewatercresscompanycoukEssentialTradingwwwessential-tradingcoukhomeaspxTheEthicalShellfishCompanywwwethicalshellfishcompanycoukTheExmouthMusselCompanywwwexmouthmusselscom

ExtractCoffeeRoasterswwwextractcoffeecoukFentimanswwwfentimanscomFinisterre(EthicalColdWaterSurfCompany)wwwfinisterreukcomFinisterreisacold-watersurfcompanythatthinksdifferentlyraisesquestionsaboutthesupplychainandthewayproductsaremanufacturedandbelievesthatgreatproductscanbebornofresponsiblepracticesTheirsuitskeepIaintoasty-warmontheoccasionalchancehegoesforasurfForagerwwwforagerorgukForestProducewwwforestproducecomFusselswwwfusselsfinefoodscoukTheGingerBeerPlantwwwgingerbeerplantnetGampGGoodfellowrsquoswwwgoodfshopnetGoodfellowampGoodfellowLtdaresuppliersofexclusivetablewarechefsrsquoclothingkitchenequipmentandspecialisttoolsformoleculargastronomyTheycandesignandproduceuniquetablewareproductsWethankthemfortheirsupportinprovidingsomeoftheplatesforourphotographyGransforsBrukswwwgransforscomHarkilaofScandanaviawwwharkilaukcoukSwedishclothingcompanyforgearthathaskeptJackandMatthewwarmanddryoncountlesshuntingtripsHillFarmDairy(forStawleygoatsrsquocheese)wwwhillfarmdairycouk

HobbsHouseBakerywwwhobbshousebakerycoukHomewoodCheeseswwwhomewoodcheesescoukHurstwoodFarmwwwcobnutoilcoukKeenrsquosCheddarLtdwwwkeenscheddarcoukKernowsashimiwwwkernowsashimicoukMrsKirkhamrsquoswwwmrskirkhamscomLaverstokeParkFarmwwwlaverstokeparkcoukLeCreusetwwwlecreusetcoukLongleyFarmwwwlongleyfarmcomJekkarsquosHerbFarmwwwjekkasherbfarmcomMadgettrsquosFarmwwwmadgettsfarmcoukMarkrsquosBreadwwwmarksbreadcoukMendipMomentswwwmendipmomentscoukMontezumarsquoswwwmontezumascoukMoorBeerwwwmoorbeercouk

NativeBreedsCurersandCharcutierswwwnativebreedscoukTheCornishShellfishCompanyLtdwwwcornishshellfishcoukCornish-assuredoysterstheyspecialiseinthesupplyofoystersspeciallypurifiedtoremovethethreatofnorovirusfoodpoisoningNealrsquosYardCreamerywwwnealsyardcreamerycoukNorfolkSaffronwwwnorfolksaffroncoukManorFarm(forOgleshieldcheese)wwwmontgomerycheesecoukOldTownwwwold-towncoukOliverHarveyBritishChefrsquosWhiteswwwoliverharveycoukOriginalBeanswwworiginalbeanscomOstlersCloudyCiderVinegarwwwostlerscidermillcoukPerryrsquosCiderwwwperryscidercoukPowellsofOlvestonwwwpowellsofolvestoncomPrestigeEventEquipmentHirewwwprestigehirebizRationalSelf-CookingCentrewwwrationalcombiovenscomSharphamParkwwwsharphamparkcom

SipsmithGinwwwsipsmithcomSomersetCheeseCompanywwwsomersetcheesecoukSomersetCiderBrandywwwciderbrandycoukSomersetFarmersrsquoMarketswwwsomersetfarmersmarketscoukSticheltonwwwsticheltoncoukTheStorywwwthestorygroupcoukThaliCafewwwthethalicafecoukToastwwwtoastcoukThanksToastandspecialthankstoLaraSmrtnikTrethowanrsquosDairywwwtrethowansdairycoukTruffleHunterwwwtrufflehuntercoukUltracomidawwwultracomidacoukVillageMaidwwwvillagemaidcheesecoukWestCountryWaterBuffalowwwwestcountrywaterbuffalocomWestCroftCiderwwwburnham-on-seacoukwest_croft_ciderWestcombeDairywwwwestcombedairycom

TheWildBeerCowwwwildbeercocomWildStoveswwwwildstovescoukWingsofStMaweswwwwingofstmawescoukWoottonOrganicDairywwwwootton-dairycomPaulAYoungwwwpaulayoungcouk

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BodeWilliEuropeanGastronomy(GrubStreet2000)

BrothwellDonandPatriciaFoodinAntiquity(ThamesandHudson1969)

BrownJaredandMillerAnistatiaTheMixellanyGuidetoVermouthampOtherAperitifs(Mixellany2011)

CliffordSueandKingAngelaEnglandinParticular(HodderandStoughton2006)

ConigliaroTonyDrinks(EburyPress2012)

TheCulinaryInstituteofAmericaandMigoyaFranciscoFrozenDesserts(WileyampSons2008)

DavidElizabethSummerCooking(Penguin1955)

DavidsonAlanTheOxfordCompaniontoFood(OxfordUniversityPress1999)

DowningGrahamTheDeerStalkingHandbook(Quiller2008)

Fearnley-WhittingstallHughTheRiverCottageCookbook(Collins2011)

Fearnley-WhittingstallHughTheRiverCottageMeatBook(HodderandStoughton2004)

GrigsonJaneEnglishFood(Penguin1974)

HartleyDorothyFoodinEngland(Macdonald1954)

HicksSusanTheFishCourseLondon(GuildPublishing1987)

LarousseGastronomique(Hamlyn2009)

LeithPrueandWaldergraveCarolineLeithrsquosCookeryBible(BloomsburypublishingPLC1991)

MabeyRichardFoodforFree(Collins1972)

McGeeHaroldOnFoodandCooking(HodderampStoughton2004)

McVicarJekkaJekkarsquosCompleteHerbBook(KyleCathie2009)

ParsonsBradThomasASpiritedHistoryofaClassicCure-AllwithCocktailsRecipesandFormulasBitters(TenSpeedPress2011)

PhillipsRogerMushrooms(Macmillan2006)

ReganGaryTheJoyofMixology(ClarksonPotter2003)

SegnitNikkiTheFlavourThesaurus(Bloomsbury2010)

SpryConstanceandHumeRosemaryTheConstanceSpryCookeryBook(AldinePress1956)

WilsonCAnneFoodandDrinkinBritainFromtheStoneAgetothe19thCentury(AcademyChicagoPublishers2003)

WondrichDavidImbibe(Pedigree2007)

Acknowledgements

FRIENDSANDFAMILY

TheEthicureanwouldliketothankfirstandforemostElenaWendyandPhilforbelievinginusevenwhenthiswasjustadistantdreamandfortheirhelpwithrunningTheEthicurean(veryoftenrequestedatshortnotice)AdditionallywewouldliketothankPhilandElenafortheiroutstandingmanagementoftheapplejuiceproductionWewouldalsoliketothankMarkandLindaCoxLillyTessaTricksforherenthusiasmhardworkandgreatresearchskillsCharlieTricksAndrewElderforbeinglovelycommittedandhard-workingSamLaceyandBigMikeCanningsIanandMoniqueHillmanandJosephSarahLavelleJasonIngramJaineBevanJaneMiddletonDavidEldridgeTimBatesIvortheBeeKeeperAdrianBootsCleaveNursery-AlanDownEmmaDibbenKatieChardandPaulFarrelforlendingustheirprintsBillatClayabilityHelenDowningFionaBeckettPaulWinch-FurnessBrettEllisandlastbutnotleastOchothedog(bestdog)

PaucirclawouldliketothankElenandashthisbookwouldnothaveseenthelightofdaywithoutyouYoursupportwithadminOchorsquoswalksapplepressingproofreadingandgenerationofideashasbeeninvaluabletothisprojectThanksforalwaysbelievinginmeandsupportingeverythingIdoIwouldnotbewhereIamifitwasnrsquotforyouPablondashsomeofmyhappiestmomentsandthebestchildhoodfoodmemoriesaresharedwithyouYouhavekeptmesanethroughoutthewritingofthisbookyouaremybestfriendandfavouritebrotherPoppyndashyoursmilingpresenceandrelentlessoptimismmakemefeelluckytobeinyourlifeMariondashfortakingmetoallthoserestaurantsforteachingmeaboutregionalityoffoodinMexicoforshowingmethevalueofgoodfoodandensuringatalltimesthatweatethebestmealsthatwepossiblycouldforshowingmethatfoodisworthfeelingpassionateaboutMikendashIhavenodoubtthatyouwouldhavedoneanythinginyourpowertosupportthisprojectandIknowyouwouldhavebeenproudAbueTomasitandashthereisnobettercookthanyouThemealsyoupreparedforus

TomasitandashthereisnobettercookthanyouThemealsyoupreparedforusaschildrenarecherishedmemoriesthatIholdveryclosetomyheartThankyoufortakingmetothemercadoasachilddespitemywingingManyvaluablelessonsaboutfoodwerelearntinthosetripsAbueNataliandashforcookingthosedeliciousfeastsonSundaysIwillbeeternallygratefultoyouforfillingmylifewithallthosespecialmemoriesoffamilymealsTodoslosZaratesndashSuapoyosiempremehainspiradoaconvertirenrealidadtodosmissuenosThePenningtonsespeciallyMatthewandIainwhosenaturalabilitytoproduceoutstandingfoodcontinuestodriveustoplacesweonlydreamtofbeforeThanksforyourdedicationhardworksenseofhumour(whichhaskeptourspiritsupduringdifficulttimes)andadmirablecreativityTheBevansndashfortheirunequivocalsupportandespeciallytoJackforhisrelentlessenergyandpassionforourbusinessIthinkofyouallaspartofmyfamilyNeilSiLoandAmyndashforbeingthebestfriendsthatanyonecouldeverwishforThankyouformakingmefeelhappyandsafewhenIamaroundyouIhaveenjoyedsomeofthebestmealsinmylifewithyouCorinneHenryRosieTomLiamEmilyAmyHKatieandJackiendashwecouldnothavedoneitwithoutyou

JackwouldliketothankThankyouWendyandPhilBevanforbeingthegreatestpillarsanymancouldaskforKevinandAbigailforallthelimitlessadventuresandconversationsthatultimatelyrevolvedaroundbeerandfoodElenaZarateforbeingthefifthmemberofTheEthicureanJanelsquoBaggagersquoBillyardforbeingthebeautifulinspirationtojointhetradeChloeBlackmanforbeingtalentedsupportiveanddownrightawesomeHuwRuddalforbeingagentlemanandascoundrelAlltheArleyVillainsthatbecameGwynnStreetthankyouofallyourhelpmusicfoodandtoastedseedsMarkJemmaandtheCalverfamilyforthosefirstformativefoodandboozeexperiencesAlexCueDanielSnowandtheirfamiliesforbeingwonderfulJamiePikeforyourfriendshipRichardTringandJustynBellforallthoseincredibleboozynerdycocktailconversationsToallmyfriendsthatliveinourwonderfulhomewhatanabsolutedreamTimHaywardandFireandKnivesforalwaysreplyingtomyemailshoweverobscureThankyouJackieRabaioittiyoutaughtthismanhowtotellastoryFinallycheersMatthewPenningtonforpoachingmewetbehindtheearsfromalifeof9ndash5crimeandPaucirclaandIainforbeingsuchmarvellousfriendsandcolleagues

IainwouldliketothankMichelleyourtirelesssupportthislastyearhasmeantmoretomethanIcouldeversayandIthankyouimmenselyThewritingofthisbookwouldnothavebeenpossiblewithoutyouPeterIwouldnotbewhereIamhadwenotmetWhatyoudoisphenomenalandIameternallygratefultohavethetwoofyouinmylifeTomysistersTaraandEllieBothofyouhavebeennothingbutsupportiveandlovingsincethedayIwasbornThewordlsquoprivilegedrsquodoesnrsquotevencomeclosewhentalkingaboutyouToallofthebossaiirsquosAndyArranBurgerFrithGuyImogenLaurenLoisMattyNikkiPeeeeteRobSwainandZolaSomeofthefondestmemoriesIhaveinmylifeareofbeingwithallofyouIamashappyasIcanbewhenwersquoretogetherandIloveyouallThanksforyoursupportandIdelightinthemomentwersquorenexttogetherTOClareyourfriendshiphasbeenoneofthemostmeaningfulthingsIhaveexperiencedSorrythatcommunicationcanbedistantbutknowthatyouarealwaysinmyhearthowevermanymilesseparateusThanksforoveradecadeofsupportandsmilesToRachelandallofthePerrysyourwelcomingofmeintoyourfamilywasoneofthemostsignificanteventsinmylifeYourhumblewayoflifehowcloseyouallareandhowdeliciousyourfoodwasissomethingIwillalwaysstrivetoachievethroughoutmylifelsquoThankyoursquocouldnevercomeclosetowhatIwanttosaybutthankyounonethelessItwasatrulyhappytimeformeMatthewforinvitingmetostartthisbusinesswithyouIameternallygratefulYoulikemyothersiblingsarealegendandIloveyouandtoPaucirclaandJackIloveyoubothTherearenothreepeopleIwouldratherworkthishardwithItrsquosbeenmorethanamammothundertakingbutitrsquosthebestthingwersquovedonetodateHerersquostoasuccessfulandhappybusinessDadyoursupportandabilitytomakeyourchildrensmileispraiseworthyIamgratefultohavehadyouasarolemodelandIhopetoseemoreofyouinthefutureToMumthankyouforbringingthebestfamilyintoexistenceIlovebothofyouToTobyDanandallthePumpHousecrewtoJoshHollyandallatthePonyampTrapthanksforwelcomingusnewcomersontotheBristolsceneWelookforwardtoworkingwithyouinthefutureTothegreatchefsbeforemethatwerewillingtosharetheirknowledgeyouneverceasetoinspiremeteachmeandhelpmegrowAndfinallytotheOceanThemostbeautifulthingonthisEarthandtheplacewhereIfeelmostathome

MatthewwouldliketothankIameternallygratefultothefollowingfriendswhoarethemostamazingpeopleintheworldTheZarateFamilyElenaMikePaucirclaPabloampPoppyIoweeverythingtoyoursupportandembracingmeasfamilyhomefromhomeThePenningtonFamilyJohnJaneyAngelaDavidTaraJontyEllieDanMacyLisaIainandMichelleTheBevansareonestunningfamilyWendyPhilandJackandKevinSimonWilkinsonNeilWilkinsonLoisWoodwardAmyMartinLiamKnappEmilyWallisAmyHowerskaandEmilyWrightTheArmisteadFamilyIainKeithSmithJackieChardAndrewGriffinandTerryRobertsforhelpingmeembarkonmyjourneyintoseriouslygreatfoodJuliaandPaulPilcherthefriendliestforagersandtheirsuperbmushroomhaulsMyKitchenFamilyIainRichBowmanJustynaSzumlewskaThomasParslowSophieLucyandAndyElderChefsJoshEggletonandTobyGrittenforwelcomingussoreadilyintotheBristolrestaurantsceneThankstochefswhohaveinspiredmeElenaArzakNikiSegnitHestonBlumenthalSimonRoganFergusHendersonMagnusNilssonandJonnyMillsBenjaminHoffforlsquoTheTaoofPoohampTeofPigletrsquoPaucirclaIainandJackamonumentalachievementofworkanddedicationthathastestedusallYouaremygreatestfriendsIloveyou

ThisebookiscopyrightmaterialandmustnotbecopiedreproducedtransferreddistributedleasedlicensedorpubliclyperformedorusedinanywayexceptasspecificallypermittedinwritingbythepublishersasallowedunderthetermsandconditionsunderwhichitwaspurchasedorasstrictlypermittedbyapplicablecopyrightlawAnyunauthorizeddistributionoruseofthistextmaybeadirectinfringementoftheauthorrsquosandpublisherrsquosrightsandthoseresponsiblemaybeliableinlawaccordingly

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Publishedin2013byEburyPressanimprintofEburyPublishingARandomHouseGroupCompanyTextcopyMatthewPenningtonIainPenningtonPaucirclaZarateJackAdair-Bevan2013

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  • Contents
  • List of Recipes
  • About the Book
  • Title Page
  • The Ethicurean
  • Winter
    • Beetroot Carpaccio with Honeyed Walnuts
    • Duck Terrine with Cranberries and Cobnuts
    • Tandoor Scallops Celeriac Pureacutee and Pickled Rock Samphire
    • Monkfish Cheeks with Saffron Cauliflower and Aniseed
    • Roast Partridge with Bread and Cheese
    • Lambrsquos Wool
    • Janetrsquos Jungle Juice Ice with Cheddar 99 Flake
    • Rabbit Confit with Lovage Breadcrumbs
    • Confit Meats
    • Confit Tomatoes with Ruffle Basil
    • Beef Brisket Slow-roasted in Coffee Sauce with Valor Mash
    • Pigeon Breasts with Beetroot Pearl Barley and Bordelaise Sauce
    • Steamed Lemon Sole with Fondant Pink Firs Golden Beetroot and Nasturtium Remoulade
    • Sea Robin with Fennel Butter Sauce and Herbed Pink Firs
    • Pineapple Turmeric and Ginger Glazed Ham with lsquoPiccalillirsquo
    • Glazed Star Anise Carrots
    • Eccles Cakes with Dorset Blue Vinny Sauce
    • Milk Stout and Chocolate Steamed Pudding
    • Pedro Ximeacutenez and Whisky with Vermouth Smoke
    • Fennel Seed and Ginger Hot Chocolate
      • Spring
        • Nettle Soup with Caerphilly
        • St Georgersquos Mushrooms with Asparagus Ribwort Plantain Mushroom Jelly and Apple Jelly
        • Sweet-cure Mackerel with Morels Spelt Soda Bread and Horseradish
        • Asparagus with Toasted Sesame and Hollandaise Sauce
        • Clear Ham Hock Broth with Poached Eggs
        • Caerphilly and Cider Welsh Rabbit
        • Smoked Chipotle Chillies
        • Smoked Roe Deer Loin with Wild Rocket Clamped Carrots Honeyed Walnuts and Wood Sorrel
        • Curd Cheese Cucumber Flat Bean Aniseed and Sesame
        • Crab Salad with New Potatoes Pickled Carrot and Smoked Paprika Mayonnaise
        • Spring Radishes with Anchovy Cregraveme Fraiche
        • Trout with Kelp and Shiitake Mushroom Stock Rice Flat Beans and Sea Kale
        • Goat Meatballs Mash Lovage Butter and Mustard Greens
        • Ox Tongue with Swede Parsley and Cider Vinegar
        • Ox Tongue with Cauliflower Gilliflower and Hazelnuts
        • Salt Marsh Lamb with Tidal Greens
        • Steamed Rabbit Pudding
        • Pork Juniper and Black IPA Pie
        • Pearl Barley with Old Demdike and St Georgersquos Mushroom
        • Rhubarb and Custard
        • Chocolate and Salt Caramel Brownies with Cherry and Elderflower Sauce
        • Elderflower syrup
        • Strawberry and Rose Lemonade Pudding with Saffron and Cider Brandy Custard
        • The Ethicurean Vermouth Botanicals
        • Vermouth
        • Rose Lemonade
        • The Ethicurean Cocktail
        • Negroni
          • Summer
            • Figs Wrapped in Pork Belly with Lavender and Buffalo Mozzarella
            • Caramelised Chicory Labneh and Macerated Strawberry Salad
            • Roasted Tomato and Liquorice Basil Soup
            • Roasted Courgette and Cobnut Soup with Labneh and Ginger Turmeric and Mint Dressing
            • Soused Mackerel Carrot Fennel and Saffron with Gooseberry and Mint Granita
            • Chilled Beetroot Soup Par-cel Walnut Ice Cream and Roasted Cobnut Oil
            • Ewersquos-curd-stuffed Courgette Flowers with Fennel Sherbet
            • Globe Artichokes with Hollandaise Sauce and Sumac
            • Pea Goat Bacon and Lovage Broth
            • Scallops in Puff Pastry with Vermouth and Fennel Cream
            • Pickled Pollack with Flame-roasted Peppers Cucumber Pul Biber Chilli and Water Mint
            • Dorset Blue Vinny and Flame-roasted Peppers with Charred Little Gem
            • John Dory with Morel Mushrooms Flat Beans Haricot Beans and Ham Hock Stock
            • Mussels in Cider with Tarragon
            • Steamed Megrim Sole with Rock Samphire and Sumac-braised Fennel
            • Pickled rock samphire
            • Water Buffalo Fillet with Clear Chicken Stock Tarragon and Salt-baked Baby Beets
            • Barbecued Horse Mackerel with Cobnut Salbitxada Sauce
            • Fennel and Sumac Gravad Trout
            • White Raspberry Loganberry and Ewersquos Yoghurt Terrine with Sweet Cicely Confit
            • Elderflower Sorbet with Fennel Sherbet and Wild Strawberries
            • Pineapple Weed Jelly
            • Elderflower and Lavender Marshmallows
            • Spiced Ginger Beer
            • Summer Elder
            • Raw Rhubarb Smash
            • Double Sloe Gin and Tonic
              • Autumn
                • Goat Bacon with Ox Tongue Nasturtiums and Clarified Ham Broth
                • Wild Mushrooms with Sourdough Toast and Thyme Stichelton Cregraveme Fraicircche
                • Wild Mushroom and Spelt Pressed Terrine with Spinach and Rainbow Chard
                • Swedish Knaumlckebroumld with Cottage Cheese Pickled Beetroot Caraway Beetroot Crisps and Tom Thumb Lettuce
                • Roast Crown Prince Soup with Tandoori Spice Walnut Oil and Crisp Sage Leaves
                • Salt-baked Celeriac Portobello Mushroom and Apple Soup
                • Deep-fried Aubergine with Rose Hip Syrup
                • Pear Native Nape Hazelnut Cardamom and Ewersquos Cheese Salad
                • Preserved Duck Leg Chorizo Butter Bean and Confit Tomato Pot Stew with Yin Yang Beans
                • Wood Pigeon Breasts with Persian Spiced Bulgar Wheat Cucumber Aniseed and Black Cabbage
                • Chicken Mole
                • Venison Cider and Quince Stew with Herbed Butter Dumplings
                • Fish Soup with Spiced Heritage Tomatoes Fennel Seed and English Truffle Oil Toast
                • Slow-braised Goatrsquos Leg with Cider Shallots Lentils and Glazed Carrots
                • Pheasant Kiev with Winter Tarragon and Strawberry Myrtle
                • Rare Roast Sirloin of Beef with Bordelaise Sauce Black Cabbage and Truffle Cauliflower
                • Almond Pear Cardamom and Chocolate Cake
                • Sea Buckthorn Sorbet with Apple and Vanilla Pureacutee Toffee Apple and Caramel Lemon Balm
                • Beetroot Apple and Cobnut Crumble with Roasted White Chocolate Spoom
                • Simple syrups for sorbets and spooms
                • Spoom
                • Roasted White Chocolate Spoom
                • Cherry Spoom
                • Italian Meringue
                • Lordrsquos Lovage
                • Apple Flip
                • The Orchard at Barley Wood
                • Salsify and Ogle Shield Gratin
                • Vincent Castellanorsquos Venison Chorizo
                  • Basics
                  • List of Suppliers
                  • Bibliography
                  • Acknowledgements
                  • Copyright
Page 2: The Ethicurean Cookbook: Recipes, Foods and Spirituous Liquors, from Our Bounteous Walled Gardens in the Several Seasons of the Year

SteamedLemonSolewithFondantPinkFirsGoldenBeetrootandNasturtiumRemoulade

SeaRobinwithFennelButterSauceandHerbedPinkFirsPineappleTurmericandGingerGlazedHamwithlsquoPiccalillirsquoGlazedStarAniseCarrotsEcclesCakeswithDorsetBlueVinnySauceMilkStoutandChocolateSteamedPuddingPedroXimeacutenezandWhiskywithVermouthSmokeFennelSeedandGingerHotChocolate

Spring

NettleSoupwithCaerphillyStGeorgersquosMushroomswithAsparagusRibwortPlantainMushroomJellyandAppleJelly

Sweet-cureMackerelwithMorelsSpeltSodaBreadandHorseradish

AsparaguswithToastedSesameandHollandaiseSauceClearHamHockBrothwithPoachedEggsCaerphillyandCiderWelshRabbitSmokedChipotleChilliesSmokedRoeDeerLoinwithWildRocketClampedCarrotsHoneyedWalnutsandWoodSorrel

CurdCheeseCucumberFlatBeanAniseedandSesameCrabSaladwithNewPotatoesPickledCarrotandSmokedPaprikaMayonnaise

SpringRadisheswithAnchovyCregravemeFraiche

TroutwithKelpandShiitakeMushroomStockRiceFlatBeansandSeaKale

GoatMeatballsMashLovageButterandMustardGreensOxTonguewithSwedeParsleyandCiderVinegarOxTonguewithCauliflowerGilliflowerandHazelnutsSaltMarshLambwithTidalGreensSteamedRabbitPuddingPorkJuniperandBlackIPAPiePearlBarleywithOldDemdikeandStGeorgersquosMushroomRhubarbandCustardChocolateandSaltCaramelBrownieswithCherryandElderflowerSauce

ElderflowersyrupStrawberryandRoseLemonadePuddingwithSaffronandCiderBrandyCustard

TheEthicureanVermouthBotanicalsVermouthRoseLemonadeTheEthicureanCocktailNegroni

Summer

FigsWrappedinPorkBellywithLavenderandBuffaloMozzarella

CaramelisedChicoryLabnehandMaceratedStrawberrySaladRoastedTomatoandLiquoriceBasilSoup

RoastedCourgetteandCobnutSoupwithLabnehandGingerTurmericandMintDressing

SousedMackerelCarrotFennelandSaffronwithGooseberryandMintGranita

ChilledBeetrootSoupPar-celWalnutIceCreamandRoastedCobnutOil

Ewersquos-curd-stuffedCourgetteFlowerswithFennelSherbetGlobeArtichokeswithHollandaiseSauceandSumacPeaGoatBaconandLovageBrothScallopsinPuffPastrywithVermouthandFennelCreamPickledPollackwithFlame-roastedPeppersCucumberPulBiberChilliandWaterMint

DorsetBlueVinnyandFlame-roastedPepperswithCharredLittleGem

JohnDorywithMorelMushroomsFlatBeansHaricotBeansandHamHockStock

MusselsinCiderwithTarragonSteamedMegrimSolewithRockSamphireandSumac-braisedFennel

PickledrocksamphireWaterBuffaloFilletwithClearChickenStockTarragonandSalt-bakedBabyBeets

BarbecuedHorseMackerelwithCobnutSalbitxadaSauceFennelandSumacGravadTroutWhiteRaspberryLoganberryandEwersquosYoghurtTerrinewithSweetCicelyConfit

ElderflowerSorbetwithFennelSherbetandWildStrawberries

PineappleWeedJellyElderflowerandLavenderMarshmallowsSpicedGingerBeerSummerElderRawRhubarbSmashDoubleSloeGinandTonic

Autumn

GoatBaconwithOxTongueNasturtiumsandClarifiedHamBroth

WildMushroomswithSourdoughToastandThymeSticheltonCregravemeFraicircche

WildMushroomandSpeltPressedTerrinewithSpinachandRainbowChard

SwedishKnaumlckebroumldwithCottageCheesePickledBeetrootCarawayBeetrootCrispsandTomThumbLettuce

RoastCrownPrinceSoupwithTandooriSpiceWalnutOilandCrispSageLeaves

Salt-bakedCeleriacPortobelloMushroomandAppleSoupDeep-friedAuberginewithRoseHipSyrupPearNativeNapeHazelnutCardamomandEwersquosCheeseSalad

PreservedDuckLegChorizoButterBeanandConfitTomatoPotStewwithYinYangBeans

WoodPigeonBreastswithPersianSpicedBulgarWheatCucumberAniseedandBlackCabbage

ChickenMoleVenisonCiderandQuinceStewwithHerbedButterDumplings

FishSoupwithSpicedHeritageTomatoesFennelSeedandEnglishTruffleOilToast

Slow-braisedGoatrsquosLegwithCiderShallotsLentilsandGlazedCarrots

PheasantKievwithWinterTarragonandStrawberryMyrtleRareRoastSirloinofBeefwithBordelaiseSauceBlackCabbageandTruffleCauliflower

AlmondPearCardamomandChocolateCakeSeaBuckthornSorbetwithAppleandVanillaPureacuteeToffeeAppleandCaramelLemonBalm

BeetrootAppleandCobnutCrumblewithRoastedWhiteChocolateSpoom

SimplesyrupsforsorbetsandspoomsSpoomRoastedWhiteChocolateSpoomCherrySpoomItalianMeringueLordrsquosLovageAppleFlipTheOrchardatBarleyWoodSalsifyandOgleShieldGratinVincentCastellanorsquosVenisonChorizo

Basics

Listofsuppliers

BibliographyAcknowledgementsCopyright

ListofRecipesAlmondPearCardamomandChocolateCakeAppleFlipAsparaguswithToastedSesameandHollandaiseSauceBarbecuedHorseMackerelwithCobnutSalbitxadaSauceBeefBrisketSlow-roastedinCoffeeSaucewithValorMashBeetrootCarpacciowithHoneyedWalnutsBeetrootAppleandCobnutCrumblewithRoastedWhiteChocolateSpoomCaerphillyandCiderWelshRabbitCaramelisedChicoryLabnehandMaceratedStrawberrySaladCherrySpoomChickenMoleChilledBeetrootSoupPar-celWalnutIceCreamandRoastedCobnutOil

ChocolateandSaltCaramelBrownieswithCherryandElderflowerSauce

ClearHamHockBrothwithPoachedEggsConfitMeatsConfitTomatoeswithRuffleBasilCrabSaladwithNewPotatoesPickledCarrotandSmokedPaprikaMayonnaise

CurdCheeseCucumberFlatBeanAniseedandSesameDeep-friedAuberginewithRoseHipSyrup

DorsetBlueVinnyandFlame-roastedPepperswithCharredLittleGem

DoubleSloeGinandTonicDuckTerrinewithCranberriesandCobnutsEcclesCakeswithDorsetBlueVinnySauceElderflowerandLavenderMarshmallowsElderflowerSorbetwithFennelSherbetandWildStrawberriesElderflowersyrupEwersquos-curd-stuffedCourgetteFlowerswithFennelSherbetFennelandSumacGravadTroutFennelSeedandGingerHotChocolateFigsWrappedinPorkBellywithLavenderandBuffaloMozzarellaFishSoupwithSpicedHeritageTomatoesFennelSeedandEnglishTruffleOilToastGlazedStarAniseCarrotsGlobeArtichokeswithHollandaiseSauceandSumacGoatBaconwithOxTongueNasturtiumsandClarifiedHamBroth

GoatMeatballsMashLovageButterandMustardGreensItalianMeringueJanetrsquosJungleJuiceIcewithCheddar99FlakeJohnDorywithMorelMushroomsFlatBeansHaricotBeansandHamHockStockLambrsquosWoolLordrsquosLovageMilkStoutandChocolateSteamedPudding

MonkfishCheekswithSaffronCauliflowerandAniseedMusselsinCiderwithTarragonNegroniNettleSoupwithCaerphillyOxTonguewithCauliflowerGilliflowerandHazelnutsOxTonguewithSwedeParsleyandCiderVinegarPeaGoatBaconandLovageBrothPearNativeNapeHazelnutCardamomandEwersquosCheeseSaladPearlBarleywithOldDemdikeandStGeorgersquosMushroomPedroXimeacutenezandWhiskywithVermouthSmokePheasantKievwithWinterTarragonandStrawberryMyrtlePickledPollackwithFlame-roastedPeppersCucumberPulBiberChilliandWaterMint

PickledrocksamphirePigeonBreastswithBeetrootPearlBarleyandBordelaiseSaucePineappleWeedJellyPineappleTurmericandGingerGlazedHamwithlsquoPiccalillirsquoPorkJuniperandBlackIPAPiePreservedDuckLegChorizoButterBeanandConfitTomatoPotStewwithYinYangBeansRabbitConfitwithLovageBreadcrumbsRareRoastSirloinofBeefwithBordelaiseSauceBlackCabbageandTruffleCauliflower

RawRhubarbSmashRhubarbandCustardRoastCrownPrinceSoupwithTandooriSpiceWalnutOiland

CrispSageLeavesRoastPartridgewithBreadandCheeseRoastedCourgetteandCobnutSoupwithLabnehandGingerTurmericandMintDressing

RoastedTomatoandLiquoriceBasilSoupRoastedWhiteChocolateSpoomRoseLemonadeSalsifyandOgleShieldGratinSaltMarshLambwithTidalGreensSalt-bakedCeleriacPortobelloMushroomandAppleSoupScallopsinPuffPastrywithVermouthandFennelCreamSeaBuckthornSorbetwithAppleandVanillaPureacuteeToffeeAppleandCaramelLemonBalm

SeaRobinwithFennelButterSauceandHerbedPinkFirsSimplesyrupsforsorbetsandspoomsSlow-braisedGoatrsquosLegwithCiderShallotsLentilsandGlazedCarrots

SmokedChipotleChilliesSmokedRoeDeerLoinwithWildRocketClampedCarrotsHoneyedWalnutsandWoodSorrel

SousedMackerelCarrotFennelandSaffronwithGooseberryandMintGranita

SpicedGingerBeerSpoomSpringRadisheswithAnchovyCregravemeFraiche

StGeorgersquosMushroomswithAsparagusRibwortPlantainMushroomJellyandAppleJelly

SteamedLemonSolewithFondantPinkFirsGoldenBeetrootandNasturtiumRemoulade

SteamedMegrimSolewithRockSamphireandSumac-braisedFennel

SteamedRabbitPuddingStrawberryandRoseLemonadePuddingwithSaffronandCiderBrandyCustard

SummerElderSwedishKnaumlckebroumldwithCottageCheesePickledBeetrootCarawayBeetrootCrispsandTomThumbLettuce

Sweet-cureMackerelwithMorelsSpeltSodaBreadandHorseradishTandoorScallopsCeleriacPureacuteeandPickledRockSamphireTheEthicureanCocktailTheEthicureanVermouthBotanicalsTheOrchardatBarleyWoodTroutwithKelpandShiitakeMushroomStockRiceFlatBeansandSeaKaleVenisonCiderandQuinceStewwithHerbedButterDumplingsVermouthVincentCastellanorsquosVenisonChorizoWaterBuffaloFilletwithClearChickenStockTarragonandSalt-bakedBabyBeets

WhiteRaspberryLoganberryandEwersquosYoghurtTerrinewithSweetCicelyConfit

WildMushroomandSpeltPressedTerrinewithSpinachandRainbowChard

WildMushroomswithSourdoughToastandThymeSticheltonCregravemeFraicircche

WoodPigeonBreastswithPersianSpicedBulgarWheatCucumberAniseedandBlackCabbage

AbouttheBookTheEthicureanphilosophyissimpleeatlocalcelebratenativefoodslivewell

TheEthicureanisquietlychangingthefaceofmodernBritishcookingndashallfromawalledgardenintheheartoftheMendipHillsTheEthicureanCookbookfollowsayearintheirmagnificentkitchenandgardenndashandcelebratesthegreatestfooddrinkandtraditionsofthisfairland

ThecombinationsareelectriccuredroedeerflirtswithwoodsorrelandforagednettlesoupisfortifiedbyayoungCaerphillyHoneyedwalnutsnestleamongstbeetrootcarpacciorichcurdcheeseisbalancedbydelicatecucumberAndthecomfortofpiesandpudndashporkandjuniperpieEcclescakeswithDorsetBlueVinnyndashisenhancedbytheapplejuiceciderandbeerpouredinequalmeasure

With120recipesandayearofseasonalinspirationinphotographsandwordsEthicureanismisanewBritishcookingmanifesto

TheEthicureansareJackAdair-BevanPaucirclaZarateMatthewPenningtonandIainPennington

AbovelefttorightJackMatthewOchoPaucirclaandIain

CookrsquosNotesAllvegetablesarepeeledunlessotherwisespecifiedAlleggsaremediumfree-rangeButterisunsaltedunlessotherwisespecified

ethicureanadjthepursuitoffine-tastingfoodwhilebeingmindfuloftheeffectofonersquosfoodproductionandconsumptionontheenvironment

TheEthicureansitsbelowanovergrownGeorgianestatesometimehauntofWordsworthandColeridgeItsgardensarealabyrinthofrosespergolasandchippedstatuesTherestaurantandkitchenarehousedintwooftheoriginalglasshouseswithinBarleyWoodWalledGardenbuiltforHenryHerbertWillsoftheImperialTobaccoCompanyin1901ThiswastheyearinwhichQueenVictoriatookherfinalbreathOurWalledGardenisfilledwithneatrowsofcabbagesandespaliersofgreengagesandapricotsHundred-year-oldvineshavebulliedtheirwaythroughasmallbrickholeinoneoftheglasshousesCamberedred-brickpathsframeapatchworkgardenofcannellinibeansmarchingTomThumbandaquiltedstatisThegardeniscutinhalfbyayew-linedcorridorinspringlavendergrowsatjusttherightheighttotearoffsmallhandfulsaswewalkupfromthelowerorchardInsummerthepurplemassgiveswaytocampanuladayliliesandhundredsofasterMarkthegardenerbringsustrugsofvegetableseachmorningandthestarchedwhiteflashofachefrsquostuniccanbeseenaroundtheherbbordersjustbeforelunch

BritishseasonalityethicalsourcingofingredientsandattentiontothelocalenvironmentarethefoundationsofourbusinessWearefourfriendsJackAdair-BevanPaucirclaZarateandMatthewandIainPenningtonBetweenuswehaveoverlappingareasofexpertisethatrangefromthepracticalandorganisationalknowledgeneededtorunabusinesstothescienceofcookingandthewildfoodthatgrowsoutsidethewallsofourrestaurantWeareself-taughtandwanttoofferanapproachtoBritishfoodthatisneitherexclusivenorisolatingandonethatisfundamentallyaboutsharingknowledgeandpassion

Sustainabilityhasbecomeabuzzwordinrecentyearsandallanybodycan

SustainabilityhasbecomeabuzzwordinrecentyearsandallanybodycaneverdoisworktowardsamoresustainablewayoflifendashweEthicureansaredoingourbestWetookovertherestaurantin2010overfivedayswecompletedarefitwiththehelpofourfamilyandfriendsknockingdownwallsredecoratingandpausingonlytotakeadecentlunchandsupperonthelongtablesoverlookingtheWringtonValeOnthesixthdayweopenedforbusinessandbeganafullappleseasonpickingpulpingandjuicingWestartedresearchingtheseventyvarietiesofapplethatwenowhadtolookafterinourtwoorchards

FoodandthenarrativesurroundingitisinaconstantstateofevolutionitispoliticalartisticandcompletelydeliciousTheMendipsinSomersetthehomeofTheEthicureanisaplaceonthevergeofsomethingincredibleArtisansfromacrossthecountryaremovingtheirproductionhereCommunityfarmsorchardsandcollaborationsarepoppingupacrossthecountyWearewatchingdaybydayasourfriendscustomersandsuppliersarere-establishingandstrengtheningtheirruralcommunitiesandtakingcontroloftheirfoodproductionWeareseeingandenjoyingtherediscoveryofoldtechniquesandadaptationsforthefuture

FromouropeningdaywechangedourmenuonadailybasisaccordingtowhatwasavailablewecontinuetocelebrateeverysingledayoftheBritishseasonInthisbookwehaverecordednotonlyrecipesbutourrelationshipswithourproducersourlandourlivesandourhistoryndashallofwhichareintricatelyconnectedwiththefoodweeat

Werarelyleavethisbeautifulwalledgardenitisanabsoluteparadise

RecipeList

BeetrootCarpacciowithHoneyedWalnutsDuckTerrinewithCranberriesandCobnuts

TandoorScallopsCeleriacPureacuteeandPickledRockSamphireMonkfishCheekswithSaffronCauliflowerandAniseed

RoastPartridgewithBreadandCheeseLambrsquosWool

JanetrsquosJungleJuiceIcewithCheddar99FlakeRabbitConfitwithLovageBreadcrumbs

ConfitMeatsConfitTomatoeswithRuffleBasil

BeefBrisketSlow-roastedinCoffeeSaucewithValorMashPigeonBreastswithBeetrootPearlBarleyandBordelaiseSauceSteamedLemonSolewithFondantPinkFirsGoldenBeetroot

andNasturtiumRemouladeSeaRobinwithFennelButterSauceandHerbedPinkFirs

PineappleTurmericandGingerGlazedHamwithlsquoPiccalillirsquoGlazedStarAniseCarrots

EcclesCakeswithDorsetBlueVinnySauceMilkStoutandChocolateSteamedPudding

PedroXimeacutenezandWhiskywithVermouthSmokeFennelSeedandGingerHotChocolate

THEREAREACOUPLEofspecialrequirementsfortheWalledGardeninwinterndashfirstalightertodefrostthepadlocksandsecondlyagoodtorchforeveningtripsaroundthegardenunlessthereisafullmoonFrostsintheWringtonValearespectacularTheairhoarthatdecoratesthetreescreatesalandscapethatismoreakintoSiberiathanSomersetInanearly-morningdriftingfogtheviewfromtheglasshouseisdivineDuringourfirstyearatBarleyWoodwehadheavysnowandseveralhoarfrostsandthepathwaythroughthecentreofthegardenlayunderagoodthreeinchesofsnowJackclippedonhisskisandarmedwithtwobamboocanespinchedfromMarkrsquosbeansmanagedtoskirightthroughitMorningtripstothecompostheapatthebottomorchardthereserveoftheluckiestinsummerbecomeatasktobeavoidedbyallofus

ByearlyDecemberwetrytofinishpressingthelastoftheseasonrsquosapplesasworkingintheicyciderbarnisharshElenaPaucirclarsquosmumandPhilJackrsquosdadruntheapplebusinessBothareusedtowarmerclimatesndashMexicoandtheGulfrespectivelyYoursquollfindtheminthebarnclothedinmultiplelayersdebatingwhichvarietiesofapplestoblendTheirfridgesathomeareburstingwithlabelledspecimensTydemanrsquosLateOrangesitsnexttoReverendJamesTheseasonrsquoslastpressingsrequirejugglingthefinalfewtrugsofsweetvarietieswiththelatercookerssuchastheinfamousBramleyandthecloud-texturedBlenheimOrange

Thecoldweatheractsasagentleprodtowardsmorefull-bodiedbutteryfoodanddrinkByDecembercalorificcautionisthrownasideaswemarchtowardstheinevitablefeastandbyChristmaswearetrottingfull-belliedtowardsabsolutegluttonyPartridgesaresynonymouswiththistimeofyearweallknowthesongTheseplumpbirdsvirtuallyflyoutofthekitchenroastedandglazedwithacoatofhawthornjellywithitswild-fruittartness

WinterisachancetodeployallofthosechutneysjamspicklesjelliesliqueursinfusedginsbeerscidersandwinesthathavebeensquirrelledawayduringseasonalglutsItrsquosatimeforexperimentssweetconcoctionssuchasmembrillo-infusedvodkaandvanillaandespressobeanrumOurWalledGardenapricotjamandblackcardamomvodkaatriumphofadrinkwasthesweetproductofabitterdayinJanuary

FromtheNewYearwhileeveryoneelsedetoxesexercisesanddietsinacloudofresolveandperspirationwearepreparingthebiggesteventinourcalendarourannualWassailForustheWassailisafestivalfixduringthecruellestpartofwinterWefeelwehaverecapturedalostpartofourcountryrsquosheritageandrichlyupdateditOnthiscoldeveningweneverfailtoenjoythemagicalritualsofeatingdrinkingandworkingtogether

BytheendofJanuarywearetheonespayingpenanceforouralcoholconsumptionandexcessWorkbeginsorrathercontinuesafteralittlebreakAllthefruittreesareprunedthedividinghedgesthatarematureandreadyforlayingareconfrontedwithbillhooksandaxestheformidablehedgeoutsideourciderbarnisduetobelaidnextyearWeareluckytohavetheoldesthedgingsocietyinthecountrytheWringtonandBurringtonwhichwasformedaftertheEnclosuresActcameintoforceintheearly1800sItstillmeetsregularlyjustdowntheroadTherearedistinctivestylesofhedge-layingthatvaryfromregiontoregionEachstyleisspecifictothelocalclimateandthetypesoftreesandshrubsthatwillgrowinlocalsoilTheareaaroundtheWalledGardenisahedge-layingstrongholdalthoughwesuspectfewpeoplewillhaveheardofourlocalcelebrityUncleFrankahedge-layinglegendfromButcombeAllthemaintenancehastotakeplacebeforethebirdsestablishtheirnestsA

maintenancehastotakeplacebeforethebirdsestablishtheirnestsAcarefullyselectedmixofshrubsandtreeswellplantedwillyieldenoughfruittofeedplentyofhungryhumansandbirdsThehedgeframedinthegiantdoorwaytoourciderbarnreadslikeaninventoryofourlarderatTheEthicureanhawthornsloeswilddamsonsrosehipscrabappleshazelandcobnutsBeforeourresidentrobinhastimetosingforamateandbuildanesttheyewhedgesareclippedofferinganearlyreminderofthegardenrsquoscyclicalorderedstyleandtheimminentarrivalofspring

BeetrootCarpacciowithHoneyedWalnuts

WinterisatestingtimeforeventhemosthardenedproponentofseasonalityAnanonymoussighcansometimesbeheardinthekitchenwhenMarkthegardenercomesinwithyetanotherbasketofbeetrootTheaudaciouspink-and-white-stripedChioggiathecommonredDetroitandtheunimaginativelynamedgoldenbeetrootarefrequentvisitorstoTheEthicureankitchenatthistimeofyearHoweverthechefsrelishtheopportunitytocreateanoriginaldishThis

oneisourplayontheclassicbeefcarpaccioReminiscentofastained-glasswindowitcelebratesthedistinctivetasteofeachofthebeetrootvarietiesthatgrowonourdoorstepFlavourandspiceintertwinewithvibrantsplashesofcolourbrighteningamonochromaticwintryday

SERVES43beetroottoppedandtailed300mlredwinevinegar120gcastersugar1clove3staranise12blackpeppercornsasmallpieceofcinnamonstickahandfulofwintersaladleaves(wesuggestamixtureofmizunawinterpurslanelandcressandrocket)flakyseasaltandblackpepper

FORTHEHONEYEDWALNUTS

frac12tspbutter25gwalnuts1tsprunnyhoney

PutthebeetrootinapanwiththevinegarandhalfthesugarPouroverenoughcoldwatertocoverthebeetrootcompletelythenaddthespicesandbringtotheboilCoverwithalidandcookgentlyforabout40minutesoruntilthereisonlyaslightresistancewhenyouinsertthetipofaknifeinthebeetrootMeanwhilepreparethewalnutsMeltthebutterinasmallpanaddthewalnutsandfryoveramedium-highheatuntillightlycolouredAddthehoneyandtossuntilthewalnutsareevenlycoatedDecantfromthepanintoacooldish

DrainthecookedbeetrootkeepinghalfofthecookingliquorandcoolthemundercoldrunningwaterPourthesavedcookingliquorintoacleanpanandaddtheremainingsugarandapinchofsaltBoiloverahighheatuntilithasreducedbythree-quartersitshouldhaveathicksyrupyconsistencyRemovefromtheheatandleavetocool

PeelthebeetrootandcutthemintoquartersUsingamandolineslicethemwaferthinIfyoudonothaveamandolineputthequarteredbeetrootflat-sidedownandslicelengthwaysasthinlyaspossiblewithaverysharpknife

Toservethecarpaccioarrangethebeetrooton4servingplatesthendrizzleoverthesyrupyliquorAddasprinklingofseasaltandfreshlycrackedblackpepperthenscatterthehoneyedwalnutsandthesaladleavesontop

DuckTerrinewithCranberriesandCobnuts

WeuseAylesbury-crossducksfromMadgettrsquosFarmtomakethisterrineItwasthroughfarmersrsquomarketsthatwebecameawareofthecommendableworkMadgettrsquoshasbeendoingforyearsSituatednearChepstowitwasoriginallyadairyandbeefcattlefarm(andwasevenmentionedintheDomesdayBook)butoverthepastdecadethepoultrybusinesshastakenoffLikeothergreatfamilybusinessestheycaredeeplyaboutwhattheydowhichofcourseisreflectedinthequalityoftheirproduceThisisaveryversatilerecipeandyoucouldeasilysubstitutechickenor

goosefortheduckCarefulweighingoftheingredientsiskeyasyouneedtocompressthemevenlyintothemouldsTheterrinesneedanightintherefrigeratorbeforeservingTheywill

keepwellforseveraldaysbecausetheyaresealedbythegoosefatYouprobablywonrsquotneedtobutteryourtoastbeforeliberallyapplyingtheterrinendashalthoughitisprettytastyifyoudo

MAKES4SMALLTERRINES

210ggoosefat1tspsalt1tspgroundwhitepepperfrac12tspgroundstaranise465gskinnedduckbreastroughlydiced60gdriedcobnuts(orhazelnuts)lightlycrushed60gdriedcranberriessoakedinciderfor30minutesthendrained135gblackcabbage(cavolonero)coarselychoppedandthenblanchedinboilingsaltedwateruntiljusttender(optional)seasaltandblackpepper

Putthegoosefatinaheavy-basedpanoveralowheatuntilmeltedthenaddthesaltpepperandstaranisePlacethedicedduckbreastinthefatandcoverthemixturewithacircleofbakingparchmentCookoveraverylowheatfor30ndash45minutesuntiltheduckiscookedbutstillslightlypinkinside(ameatthermometershouldregister74degCthoughwecookoursto55ndash60degC)Removefromtheheatandleavetocoolatroomtemperature

Takethebreastmeatoutofthecooledgoosefatandputitinabowl(Youcanpourthefatoffthecookingliquorfromtheduckstraintheliquorand

canpourthefatoffthecookingliquorfromtheduckstraintheliquoranduseittoaddflavourtootherdishes)AddthenutsdrainedcranberriesandthecabbageifusingandseasonwellLinefour150mlramekinswithclingfilmandputtheminadishtocatchanyspillagesDividetheduckmixturebetweenthemitshouldcomeslightlyabovetherimsPouroverenoughofthecookingfattofillthegapsallowingittosinkinbeforecheckingthelevelagainCovereachterrinewithclingfilmandthenspikeitwithaknifetipsotheextrafatcanrunawayastheterrineschillPlaceachoppingboardontopandweightdownwith4heavytinsLeaveinthefridgeovernight

Beforeservingdiptheramekinsinhotwaterforabout30secondstoloosentheterrinesandthenturnthemoutontoaboardLeavetocometoroomtemperaturesoalittleofthefatmeltsawaythentransferthemtoservingplatesServewithtoastedsourdoughandRowanJelly(seehere)ifliked

daggerItisreassuringtoknowthatthegreatMrsBeetonwouldhaveapprovedofourchoiceofbreedInherBookofHouseholdManagementshewriteslsquoTheWhiteAylesburyduckisanddeservedlyauniversalfavouriteItssnowyplumageandcomfortablecomportmentmakeitacredittothepoultry-yardwhileitsbroadanddeepbreastanditsamplebackconveytheassurancethatyoursatisfactionwillnotceaseatitsdeathhellipthismemberoftheduckfamilyisbredonanextensivescalehellipintheabodesofthecottagersRoundthewallsoftheliving-roomsandofthebedroomevenarefixedrowsofwoodenboxeslinedwithhayanditisthebusinessofthewifeandchildrentonurseandcomfortthefeatheredlodgerstofeedthelittleducklingsandtotaketheoldonesoutforanairingThisinspiringextractservesasreminderoftheimportanceoffoodprovenanceinVictoriantimeswhenamealwasafamilyprocessthatstretchedbeyondsittingaroundatable

TandoorScallopsCeleriacPureacuteeandPickledRockSamphire

ScallopsareprizedfortheirsweetnesswhichcomesfromthewhitemeatanabductormusclethatcontainsveryhighlevelsofmildlysweetaminoacidWheneatenfreshthetasteisreminiscentofseaweedYoushouldbeabletoorderhand-divedscallopsfromagoodfishmongerInthisdishtheirsweetnuttinessiscomplementedbytheuseofceleriacndashasavouryearthyelementgivenmoregrandeurbybeingpureeedwitharichchickenstockTheflavourisheightenedwithtandoorspicesandpungentIndonesianlongpepperwhichaddthefinalelementstothisfantasticandrelativelysimple

pepperwhichaddthefinalelementstothisfantasticandrelativelysimplestarterSamphireandthesaladleafredfrillworkwelltogetherontheplateforreasonsofbothaestheticsandtastendashthetwoingredientsalmostmirroreachotherandconjureupanimageofthemarinebedIfyouwouldliketoservethescalloproespoachthemfor2minutesinalittlevegetablestockpriortoserving

SERVES416diver-caughtscallopsorangeroesremoved1ndash2tbsprapeseedorvegetableoilahandfulofPickledRockSamphire(seehere)ahandfulofredfrill(orotherwintersaladleaves)apinchoftandoorispicemixapinchofIndonesianlongpepperseasalt

FORTHECELERIACPUREacuteE

350gceleriacpeeledandcutinto1cmcubes95mlbrownchickenstock(seehere)80mlcregravemefraicircchefrac14nutmeg

FirstpreparetheceleriacChooseapanlargeenoughtoholdasteamingbasketandhalffillitwithcoldwaterGratethenutmegintothewaterandbringtotheboilPuttheceleriacinthesteamingbasketandsetitoverthepanCoverandsteamuntiltheceleriacisverysoftTransfertoablenderorfoodprocessoraddthechickenstockandcregravemefraicirccheandblitzuntilsmoothscrapingdownthesidesasneeded(Foranextrasmoothconsistencystrainthepureacuteethroughafinesieveafterblending)Seasonwithsalttotasteandreheatgentlyinapan

SeasonthescallopslightlywithseasaltSetalargeheavy-basedfryingpanoverahighheatforaminuteortwoAddathinfilmofrapeseedorvegetableoiltothehotpanitshouldbegintosmokeverylightlyAddthescallopstothepanoneatatimestartingfromtheoutsideandworkinginaclockwisedirectionspirallingtowardsthecentreBythetimeyouhaveputinyourlastscallopitwillmostlikelybetimetoturnthefirstAninviting

inyourlastscallopitwillmostlikelybetimetoturnthefirstAninvitinggoldencrustshouldhaveformedontheundersideIfitisstillalittlepaleleaveforafurther30secondsTurnoverallthescallopsinorderfollowingtheclockwisespiralyoumadeWhenyoureachthecentrereturntothebeginningandtakeoutthescallopsinordercheckingthattheundersidehascolouredtooSetasidetorestonawarmplate

PlaceaspoonfulofceleriacpureacuteeoneachservingplatePlace4scallopsontopofthepureacuteethendecoratewiththepickledrocksamphireredfrillalightdustingoftandoorispiceandasmallpinchoflongpepper

SCALLOPS

AswewritethesustainableandenvironmentallybenignpracticeofdivingforscallopsisunderthreatfromEuropeanlegislationInanattempttocontrolthetoxinlevelsofscallopstheEUhassettheselevelsextremelylowThismeansthatthetestcanonlybepassedifthescallopisshuckedpriortosaleandthisishavingaseriousimpactonthelivelihoodofdiversifnottheentiredivedscallopindustryTrawlingforscallopsdiscardingtheshellsandthepartsdeemedunfitthenfreezingthemeatandroeishigh-volumestuffScallopdiverscannotkeepupItrsquosadoublewhammyandthesnappingandclosingshellofalivescalloponceahallmarkofcarefulfishingisfastdisappearing

TheresultisthatscallopsarenowmorelikelytobefishedbydredgetrawlingwhichistheequivalentofploughingaredtractorthroughaJapanesepeacegardenScallopdiverswitnesstheseabedatfirsthandTheyproactivelymovescallopsndashmostimportantlytheyoungspecimensndashfromthepathsoftrawlerstolsquochuckypatchesrsquoThesearesafeareaswheretheconditionsarebetterforthemtoflourishastheyareallowedtospawnenoughtimesbeforetheyareharvestedThismethodoffishingisfundamentalinallowingstockstobereplenishedforthefutureGuyGrieveandhisfamilychosethetranquilandimmaculately

GuyGrieveandhisfamilychosethetranquilandimmaculatelycleanwatersoftheIsleofMulltosetupasustainableshellfishcompanyItpledgestosupportfishermenwhousesustainablemethodsinthehopethattheycancontributetowardstherecoveryofourseasTheawardsrollinforthiscompanyandwearepleasedtobeinsupport

MONKFISH

MonkfisharegreatmastersofdisguiseTheirenormousslimyheadandbodyserveaseffectivecamouflageontheseabedLookingakintoarocktheyattractpreythroughtheuseofadanglinglurefromtheheadThisabilitytoblendintotheirsurroundingscoupledwiththeirdistinctlackofgoodlooksmeantthattheywerenotpopularforeatingenablingthemtothriveinBritishwatersformanyyearsEventuallytheirsuperb-tastingmeatwasdiscoveredbyhungryhumanswhichsadlyresultedinfisheriesadoptingbeam-trawlingmethodstomeetthehighdemandInevitablythisledtoadeclineinnumbersThespeciesisnowrecoveringbutwewouldstillrecommendthatyousourcethemfromfishmongerssupportingsustainablefishingmethods

MonkfishCheekswithSaffronCauliflowerandAniseed

ThismagnificentdishcontainssomeveryfragrantspicesthattogethercreateasymphonyofflavoursWearefortunatetobeabletobuymonkfishcheeksdirectfromthefishermenviaKernowsashimiafishingcompanyinCornwallThisistheonlywaywecanguaranteethatourfishareeither

CornwallThisistheonlywaywecanguaranteethatourfishareeitherline-caughtorfromstaticnetsKernowsashimirsquosfleetdoesnotdredge-netanyofitscatchaprocessthatisharmfultothemarineecosystemMonkfishheadsareoftendiscardedatseaastheyareconsideredanugly

fishThiswastesaparticularlytastymorselintheformofthecheeksbutKernowsashimiishappytoobligeandyourlocalfishmongershouldbeabletogetholdofthemtooThecheeksareagooddealcheaperthanthetailwhichhaslongsincemadeitsepithetoflsquopoormanrsquoslobsterrsquoredundantThisanglingfishisarealbrutebutthemeatisexceptionalanditsfirmtextureiswhatmakesthisdishsogoodSaffronmakesasplendidcompaniontomonkfishwithitsionichintsof

seaairandfragranceoffishingportsMarkthegardenerhasbeengrowingthesaffroncrocusforafewyearsbutitisalabourofloveInautumntheflowersproducethreestrandseachyetunfortunatelyforMarktheydonotallbloomatthesametimeHehastoscrutiniseeveryflowertocheckwhethertheyarereadytopicksometimestheyareleftfortoolongandthestrandsareblownaway

SERVES4ndash6500gmonkfishcheeksrinsedandpatteddry12saffronstrandsfrac14vanillapodfrac12cauliflowertrimmedandsplitintofloretsstalkroughlychopped1tspgroundcardamom25mldoublecreamalittlegroundnutorrapeseedoil50gwinterpurslane(orotherwintersaladleaves)apinchofgroundmace

apinchofgroundmace4ndash6unsmokedstreakybaconrasherscookedtogarnish(optional)seasalt

FORTHEANISEDRESSING

40mlcidervinegarfrac12tspdriedaniseed(orgroundfennelseed)4tbsprapeseedoil1tspsmoothDijonmustardapinchofsalt

FirstmakethedressingHeatthecidervinegarinapanforafewminutesoveramediumheatRemoveaddtheaniseedandallowtocooltoroomtemperatureStrainthevinegarintoabowladdtheoilmustardandsaltandwhisktocombineTastetochecktheseasoningandaddalittlemoremustardifitneedsit

PutthemonkfishcheeksinabowlwiththesaffronMixtodispersetheyellowsaffronandsetaside

SlitthevanillapodopenlengthwaysscrapeouttheseedsandsetasidePlacethepodinapanofwaterthatwilltakeasteamerbasketandbringtoasimmerPutthecauliflowerstalkinthebasketplaceoverthewaterthencoverandsteamuntilverysoftThismaytake25minutesMeanwhileaddthecardamomtoaseparatepanofwaterandsteamthecauliflowerfloretsoveritfor10ndash15minutesuntiltenderRemoveandsetaside

WhenyouaresatisfiedthatthecauliflowerstalkiswellcookedtransferittoablenderandaddthecreamandsomesalttotasteBlendstoppingtoscrapedownthesidesoftheblenderwithaspatulauntilverysmoothAnyremaininglumpscanberemovedbypassingthepureacuteethroughafinesieveStirthevanillaseedsthroughthepureacuteeItcomestolifeatthismomentbecomingscentedandspeckledKeepwarmwhileyouassembletherestofthedish

Tocookthemonkfishheatalargeheavy-basednon-stickfryingpanoveramediumheatItwilltakeagoodfewminutestowarmthroughevenlysoresisttheurgetocookonituntilitradiatesheatAddenoughoiltothenow

resisttheurgetocookonituntilitradiatesheatAddenoughoiltothenowgoldenfishtocoatitlightlyandseasonwithsaltAddthecheekstothepanandcookfor5minutesoneachsideuntillightlycolouredandjustcookedthroughEnsurethatthefishiscolouringbutnotburningandadjusttheheatifneedsbeRemovethepanfromtheheatThefishcanrestintheheatofthepanwhileyouassemblethedish

ToservetossthewinterpurslanewiththeanisedressingSpoonthecauliflowerpureacuteeonto4servingplatesalongwiththefloretsandstackthefishalongsidewithapileofsaladleavesDustwithalittlegroundmaceandiflikedtopwiththecrispbaconrashers

daggerBritainhasahistoryofsaffroncultivationinthefieldsofNorfolkandSuffolkCornwallalsohadasaffron-growingindustryuntilthenineteenthcenturyandyoucanstillbuyCornishsaffroncaketodayThereisacommercialsaffronfarminNorfolkbutnotsurprisinglytheyregularlyselloutbeforethenextseasonevenbegins

RoastPartridgewithBreadandCheese

TherearetwocommonspeciesofpartridgeinBritainthenativegreyandtheFrenchred-leggedThenativebirdisararitythesedaysanditsFrenchrelativeistheonemostofuswillencounterAtaquickglancethepartridgelooksremarkablylikeaplumpmonocledgentndashanillusionthatisquicklyshatteredwhenitfleesinarapidscuttlepreferringtorunratherthanflyEscapedbirdsfromnearbyshootsregularlyappeararoundourciderbarn

andratherironicallygiventhisrecipeunderourhawthornhedgeWethinkpartridgesaretheperfectsizeforthehungrycookItisworth

followingtherulelsquoroasttheyoungpottherestrsquondashasomewhatbrutalmantrabutveryusefulnonethelessOlderbirdsarewonderfulinstewsandcasserolesslowcookeduntilthemeatistenderAyoungpartridgestillhasaslightlypliablebeakandclawsanditsbreastbonewillbesmallerthanthatofanolderbirdWenormallyhangpartridgeforfivedaysorsoinacooldryplaceThemixofflavoursandtexturesinthisrecipemightappear

overcomplicatedbuttheresultistremendousItscreationwasgreetedwithnothinglessthancomicair-punchinginthekitchenTheplumpbirdsitsonbreadsaucefragrantwithitsgentlehintofcloveThefondantpotatoesandcavoloneroprovidebutterandwelcomeacidityrespectivelyThehawthornjellyiscleansweetandtartflecksofOgleshieldcheesemarrywellwiththeflavourofclovesandthesweetnessofthehawthornOgleshieldcheeseismadeinSomersetbyJamieMontgomeryusingunpasteurisedmilkfromasmallherdofJerseysHewasheshistrucklesleavingacheesethatisverylikeracletteonlybetterThisdishisbestenjoyedwithaglassofourhouseVermouth(seehere)

ThebotanicalsinthedrinkgreetthecloveinthebreadsaucelikeanoldfriendwhilethecaramelinthehawthornjellymatchestheinitialsweetnessperfectlyTheadditionoforangetothisrecipecameaftertastingthevermouthwithwhatwethoughtwasthefinalversionHavingabloodorangehandyMatthewlayeredhawthornjellybreadsaucepartridgecheeseandapinchoforangezestinaspoonforeachofusandwealltookitinturnstoswigatthevermouthTheflavourcombinationsparkedimmediately(weshouldconfessthatthenegronicocktailisafavouritehereatBarleyWood)

SERVES44red-leggedpartridgesadrizzleofrapeseedoil4bayleaves4slicesofsourdoughbreadHawthornJelly(seehere)forbrushingandtoserve100gOgleshieldCheeseorotherraclette-stylecheeseofthehighestorderfinelyshaved

zestof1bloodorange(orordinaryorange)FondantPinkFirPotatoes(seehere)toserveseasaltandblackpepper

FORTHEBRININGSOLUTION

15litreswater90gseasalt2tbspjuniperberries4cloves2tspcorianderseeds1tspblackpeppercorns

FORTHEBREADSAUCE

300mlmilk2tbspdoublecream60gyellowonionroughlychopped2goodpinchesofgroundcloves1bayleaffrac12tspEnglishmustardfrac12tspsalt

75gstalebreadcutinto25cmcubes

FORTHECAVOLONERO

200gblackcabbage(cavolonero)orredkaleroughlychoppedadrizzleofrapeseedoil1tbspcidervinegar

PutalltheingredientsforthebrineinapanandbringtotheboilstirringtodissolvethesaltLeavetocoolandthenchillPlacethepartridgesinthechilledbriningsolutionmakingsuretheyarecompletelysubmergedandleavetheminthefridgefor1frac14hours

DrainthebirdsanddiscardthebrinePatthemdryonkitchenpaperandsetaside(Whileweareonthesubjectofchillingthevermouthoughttobeinthefridgebynow)TomakethebreadsauceputalltheingredientsexceptthebreadinasaucepanandbringtoasimmerCookgentlyfor10ndash15minutesuntiltheonioniscompletelysoftRemovethebayleafandclovestransferthemixturetoablenderandblitzuntiltheonionisincorporatedintothemilkAddthebreadandallowthebreadtosoakforacoupleofminutesbeforeblitzinguntilsmoothTasteandaddmoreseasoningifnecessaryForaverysmoothbreadsaucepassitthroughafinesievegentlypressingwiththebackofasmallladleKeepwarmuntilreadytoserve

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6LightlycoatthepartridgesinoilthenseasonwithsaltandpepperPlaceabayleafinthecavityofeachbirdandputthemonabakingtrayrestingeachoneonasliceofthebreadRoastintheovenfor12ndash15minutesuntillightlycolouredndashtheyshouldstillbepinkinsideBrushalightglazeofhawthornjellyoverthebirdsandreturnthemtotheovenfor3minutesLeavethebirdstorestinawarmplacefor10minutesbeforeserving

ForthecavoloneroheatafryingpanandaddafilmofoilAddthecabbageandseasonwithseasaltCookoveramedium-highheattossingregularlytopreventscorchinguntiltheleavesstarttowiltAddthecidervinegarandcookbrieflyuntilevaporatedRemovethecabbagefromthepanandsetaside

ToassemblethedishspoonsomebreadsauceontoeachservingplateFlake

ToassemblethedishspoonsomebreadsauceontoeachservingplateFlakeovershavingsoftheOgleshieldtheywillmeltastheylandonthesaucePlacethebirdsontopthenaddthecavoloneroalongwithdollopsofhawthornjellyScatterovertheorangezestandservewiththefondantpotatoesAdmireyourdinnerfornolongerthanittakestopourthevermouthtableside

WASSAIL

OurannualWassailtakesplaceinearlyJanuaryTheCeltsviewedthistimeofyearasthegatewayfromdarknesstolightwhenallofnatureawakesAsrecentlyastheearlytwentiethcenturywholevillagesndasheldersandinfantsalikendashwouldcongregateintheorchardsandsingshoutandbangoutroughmusiconpotsandpanstowakethetreespiritsfromtheirwinterslumberandwardofftheevilspiritsthatmightharmthetreesrsquofertilityItwasachancetothrowasidetheacceptedhierarchiesandasenseofchaosprevailedCentraltothiseventwastheWassailcupacommunaldrinkofmulledciderandspicethatwaspassedfromhandtohandtotoasttheappletreeOnedrinkthatwerituallypassaroundwhenwewassailisLambrsquosWool(seehere)

LambrsquosWool

WassailisacuriouseveningatBarleyWoodamixoffoodmusicfireandgnarledappletreesOnedrinkthatwealwaysserveatWassailisaconcoctioncalledlambrsquoswoolndasharichsmoothcombinationofaleapplesandspicesthatpre-datesandoutstripsmulledciderandisperfectforcoldoutdooreveningsThisdrinklikemanyrecipesthathavebeenpasseddownandaroundhas

amistyparentagebutthenameseemstooriginatefromtheCelticlamhrsquossuilmeaninghandandeyeWecanonlyimaginethatthisalludestotheco-ordinationyouwillneedtomakethisdrinkitsfrothytoplooksjustlikelambrsquoswool

SERVES46largeBlenheimOrangeapples(orBramleys)coredandleftwhole15litresBoxSteamBreweryDarkandHandsomeorotherdarkbeer250gdemerarasugarfrac12nutmeggrated1thumb-sizedpieceoffreshgingerpeeledandfinelysliced1cinnamonstick1staranise

Heattheovento160degCGasMark3Placetheapplesonabakingsheetandbakefor1houroruntilsoftRemoveandleavetocool

PutthebeeranddemerarasugarinadeeppanandbringtoasimmerstirringtodissolvethesugarAddthespicesandsimmerfor10minutesSqueezetheapplefleshfromtheskinsandpassitthroughafinesieveRemovethespicesfromthebeerthenwhiskintheapplepulpoverahighheatBringtotheboilstirringallthetimeThehardwhiskingwillcreatethewoollytoponthelambrsquoswool

ServeinglassessilvertankardsorthecommunalWassailcupndashifyouhaveone

ForustheWassailisachancetocelebratethediversityofourorchardanacknowledgementofthemagicofapplesarebellionagainstthecolddarkdepthsofwinterItisacrucialpartofourrelationshipwiththelandandwefeelitisimportanttoinvolveandengageeveryonecitydwellersandcountryfolkalikewiththeseasonsForthatreasonwehaveendedupwithabeautifulandcompletelymadfestivalthatcentresonfoodfriendshipandhappinessRestoringthisancienttraditiontoBarleyWoodhasbeenagreatsuccesswithhundredsoflocalsandBristoliansjoininguseachyearItwasourfriendsandartisancheesemakersTimandAngelaofHomewoodCheeseswhoguidedusthroughourfirstWassailWassailnightiswithoutfailoneofthecoldestnightsoftheyearatthe

WalledGardenThefrostformssilentlyovertheorchardsandvegetablepatchesAtfirstwedonrsquotnoticeitTorchbearersleadtheWassailprocessiontakingustotheoldesttreeintheorchardItisthenthatwelookaroundandrealisewearesurroundedbyshimmeringiceThentheceremonybegins

realisewearesurroundedbyshimmeringiceThentheceremonybegins

JanetrsquosJungleJuiceIcewithCheddar99Flake

Weareveryfortunatetobesituatedrightinthemiddleofoneofthemostprominentcider-producingareasinSomersetWehaveagreatnumberofso-calledciderapplesinourorchardandhavehadafairshotatmakingourownciderThebestresultshavecomefromusingoneofourfavouritevarietiesMorganSweetDespiteafewgoodattemptsthoughwecanhonestlysaythatweareyet

tomatchtheciderproducedbyWestCroftinBrentKnollSomersetItisresponsibleforthedelectablebeverageaptlynamedJanetrsquosJungleJuiceoraswelazilycallitJJJThiscloudyciderhasprovedextremelypopularatour

welazilycallitJJJThiscloudyciderhasprovedextremelypopularatourannualWassailItismadefromtraditionalEnglishciderapplescollectedfromWestCroftrsquosownorchardwheremanyofthetreespre-datetheFirstWorldWarTheyarealltraditionalSomersetciderapplesKingstonBlackMorganSweetSheeprsquosNoseBrownSnoutChiselJerseyYarlingtonMillDabinettandMichelinWestCroftdoesnotaddsugartomakeJJJstrongerandthenwateritdownasmanycidermakersdoInsteaditismadefrom100percentcider-applejuiceWerarelyhaveanyleftbytheendofWassaileveningwhichiswhywealwayskeepbackasupplylsquoforstaffrsquoIthelpsfocusthemindwhenalltheguestshaveleftandwearefacedwithamajorclear-upintheearlyhoursofthemorningWecameupwiththisfrozendessertintheweekfollowingourfirst

WassailItseekstoencapsulatesomeofthemainelementsofWassaileveningallowingustocontinuethefestivitiesforthatlittlebitlongeralbeitinamorerefinedandsubduedmanner

SERVES6ndash81litreJanetrsquosJungleJuice(orgoodroughdryscrumpycider)60gcastersugar65mlciderbrandy150gKeenrsquosCheddarcuttorectangularlsquo99rsquoflakeshapesmintleavespreferablyappleminttogarnish

PutashallowmetaltrayinthefreezertochillCombinethecidersugarandciderbrandyinabowlandstiruntilthesugardissolvesPourthemixtureintothechilledtrayandplaceinthefreezerLeaveuntilitisbeginningtofreezearoundtheedgesandthenstirthoroughlyEvery30minutesorsostirwithaforkcrushinganylumpsuntiltheiceisfirmbutnotfrozensolidndashthiswilltakeabout3hoursTransfertoacontainerwithalidandstoreinthefreezer

ServetheiceinteacupsorglasseswiththeCheddarlsquoflakesrsquoaddedgarnishedwithmintleaves

RabbitConfitwithLovageBreadcrumbs

Makingaconfitorcookingslowlyinfatisatraditionalwayofpreservingmeat(seehere)AttheWalledGardenwedoitprimarilyinautumntopreservethelegsofthegamethatcomesinThiscarriesusthroughuntilwinterwhenproduceismorescarceShortlyafterwearrivedattheWalledGardenwediscoveredtoour

dismaythattherewasnolovagegrowingthereSoMarkplantedlovageseedsalongthewestwallinthealreadydiverseherbgardenandwewaitedbuttheplantsfailedtoappearWesoonfoundoutthatlikeallgoodthingslovageneedstimetodevelopForayearMatthewharvesteditfromtheplantoverrunninghisowngardenathomeandbroughtitintoservicetherestaurantThisplanthasbeenuprootedduringtwohousemovesndashaprocessthatleftMatthewrsquoshandsreekingoflovageforaweekafterwardsLovageisveryversatileandeasytogrowonceestablishedsodogiveita

goTheseedsarefullofcharacterandflavourandcanbedriedandpreservedwhiletheleavesaddanewdimensiontosaladsandstocksThisrecipeisanidealwaytousethevaluableseedswhichhavecelerytonesthatmatchthesweetrabbitfleshndashifyoudonrsquothaveanylovageseedsyoucouldtryceleryseedsinsteadMakingtherabbitintoaconfitkeepsthesometimes-dryfleshchin-drippinglyjuicyForperfectlycrispbreadcrumbsyouneedtothinkintermsofevendryingratherthantoastingFollowthemethodbelowforsuccesseverytime

SERVES42ConfitRabbits(seehere)150gstalebreadcutinto25cmcubes15glovageseedsroughlycrushedinapestleandmortar2eggyolkslightlybeatentoastedsourdoughbreadtoservebakedonions(seemethod)toservemixedsaladleavestoserveDarkPlumChutney(seehere)toserveHeattheovento180degCGasMark4Ifyouhavemadetheconfitrabbitinadvancewarmthejarinapanof

lightlysimmeringwatersothefatbecomesliquidthenremovethelegsandlaythemonabakingtray

BlitzthebreadandlovageseedstogetherinafoodprocessortomakefinebreadcrumbsSpreadthecrumbsevenlyonabakingtrayandplaceintheovenCookfor6ndash10minutesremovingthetrayevery2minutesandturningthecrumbsItwillquicklybecomeapparentwhereyourovenhashotspotsandcoolerareasContinueuntilthecrumbsareevenlydriedandlightlycoloured

BrushtherabbitwiththebeateneggyolkandcoatwiththepungentbreadcrumbsPlaceintheovenfor8minutesthenremoveandleavetorestfor2minutes

Servetherabbitwithlightlytoastedsourdoughbreadandifyoulikesomebakedonions(placewholeskin-ononionsintheovenforanhouruntiltender)saladleavesandDarkPlumChutney

CONFIT

ThistechniqueissoinvaluablesosimplesoversatileandonceyoumasterittherewillalwaysbesomethingrobustandepicureaninthefridgetoheatupatthelastminuteinanemergencyConfitisaFrenchtechniquethatwasdevelopedbeforerefrigerationandtranslatesaslsquopreservedrsquoAlongsidecuringsmokinganddryingitisinvaluabletoanyonewhowantstoeatwiththeseasonsGamecanbepreservedthroughthewintermonthswellintospringToughercutssuchasducklegsbenefitfromthelongcookingprocesswhilethefatinwhichtheyarecookedcanbeusedafterwardsAlayerofporkfatsealsthetopcompletelyandconfitcanbestoredinacoolcellarwithnoriskofspoilageThefatcanalsobereusedagainandagainreheatedwithalittlemoresaltaddedContainerssuchastall-sidedpreservingjarscanningjarsandKilnersarebesttoreheatjustwarmthejarinapanoflightlysimmeringwatertoloosenthefatremovetheducklegsandbakeintheovenfor8ndash10minutesIfyoursquoreseriousaboutyourconfitasmallinvestmentofthirtyquidcan

buyahomevacuumsealerWrappedinpolythenebagsmeatneedsonlyatablespoonoffatarounditandtheairissuckedoutofthepackagingThisrecreatesthesameairlessenvironmentasthatofthefatstoragemethodabovewhilerequiringlessspaceinthefridgeandlessoftherawingredientSaltandspicesareusedfirsttodrawmoisturefromthemeatFollowthe

spiceguidebelowforsuggestedseasoningsbutdotryyourownblendsTheweightofsaltistheoneconstanttoadheretosetat4gperlegscaleaccordingtothisBlendorcrushthesaltsandspicestogetherleavingthewoodybayleaveswholeCoveryourchosencutsinthissaltmixtureforaminimumof12andmaximumof36hoursWashthemeatundercoldwatertoremovetheresidualsaltandherbsPlaceaboutthreekilosofgoosefatinatall-sidedovenproofpanHeatthefattoloosenitandlaythelegsinitAddmorefatifneededasthelegsneedtobefullysubmergedSettheovento90degC(orthelowestpossibleovensetting)andcookfor5ndash6hoursTheoilshouldnrsquotbubbleatthistemperaturesoturndownthetemperaturebyfivedegreesifthatrsquoshappening

Oppositeareourrecommendedquantitiesfordifferenttypesofmeatusing

OppositeareourrecommendedquantitiesfordifferenttypesofmeatusingthecookinginstructionsgivenaboveWehavealsogivenarecipeforconfittomatoesasthiscookingmethodconcentratestheflavoursinspectacularfashion

ConfitMeats

FORCONFITDUCK

3kggoosefat12ducklegs48gfineseasalt12gstaranise6gblackpeppercorns3gclovepowder6gfennelseeds6bayleaves

FORCONFITCHICKEN

3kggoosefat12chickenlegs48gfineseasalt12gjuniperberries6gblackpepper3gclovepowder6bayleaves

FORCONFITRABBIT

frontandhindlegsfrom4rabbits3kggoosefat48gsalt12glovageseeds6gblackpeppercorns

3gfennelseeds8driedlavenderflowers6bayleaves

ConfitTomatoeswithRuffleBasil

TomatoesareblimminrsquomarvellouswhencookedlikethisAlthoughnotsubmergedinfattheyarecookedoveralayerofrapeseedoilwithalittlemoredrizzledoverthemessentiallypreservingthemwithfat

6tomatoesrapeseedoilbasilorthymeseasalt

Preheattheovento120degCGasMarkfrac12

CutacrossinthebottomofthetomatoesanddropthemintosimmeringwaterforacoupleofminutesRemovewithaslottedspoonandpeelofftheskinsQuarterthetomatoesscoopoutthefleshandseeds(youcanretaintheseformakingtomatoessenceseebelow)andyouareleftwithtomatofleshshards

LineabakingsheetwithfoilBrushwithrapeseedoilandplacethetomatoesontopDustwithsaltandyourchosenherbPlaceintheovenfor90minutesCheckthemattheendofthistimeandturnthemovertheyneedtobemostlydrybutstillpliableReturntotheovenforafurther10minutesifneedsbe

TomaketomatoessenceplacetheseedsinafinesieveandsquashthroughwithaspoonPlacetheliquidoveralow-mediumheattoboilslowlyitwillreduceandreachtheconsistencyofpassataAddapinchofsaltandsugartothisintenselyflavouredsavourysauceUseasagarnishforanyfoodthatpairswithtomato

BeefBrisketSlow-roastedinCoffeeSaucewithValorMash

UsingthehumblercutsofmeatisanEthicureanprerequisiteBrisketisarelativelyinexpensivecutallowingustomaximisethebeastrsquosworthandminimiseourcostswhileeatingexceptionallywellAskyourbutchertoboneandrollitwithallitslovelycollagenandfatintactCollagenwillonlybreakdownataround70degCsobrisketneedsalonggentlecookAmeatthermometerwillhelpnoendinperfectingthisroastMoistureisalsovitalandthiscreatesampleopportunityforseasoningwithalesandsaucesTheroastedsmokyrichnessofcoffeemakesitoneofbeefrsquosclosestyet

largelyoverlookedalliesOurcoffeesupplierisExtractrunbythreeenthusiastswhoroastalloftheircoffeeinavintage1955cast-ironProbatroasterSamDavidandMarkrebuiltandconditionedthisfinecontraptionthemselvesanditlooksasifitcouldhavebeenbuiltbyWallaceandGromitWeregularlytakeourstafftoExtracttoseetheentireprocessfromrawbeantocupandtoloseafewhoursinconversationwithexperts

SERVES415kgbeefbrisketrolledandtiedalittleoilasmallbunchofthymeseasalt

FORTHECOFFEESAUCE

140gtomatopureacutee500mlwater100mlespressocoffee2tbspcidervinegarfrac12tspsmokedpaprika1tbsppaprika1tspgroundcumin1chipotlechillideseededandcrushed

FORTHEVALORPOTATOMASH

15kgValorpotatoes(DesireeRemarkaandKingEdwardalsoworkwell)peeledandcutintoeven-sizedchunks125mlmilk

125gbutter

Heattheovento220degCGasMark7RubthebrisketwithoilandsprinklethethymeleavesoverPlaceitinashallowroastingtrayandroastfor30minutesuntilcolouredslightlyRemovefromtheovenandlowerthetemperatureto140degCGasMark1

MeanwhilemixallthesauceingredientstogetherTransferthebriskettoadeeproastingtinandpouroverthesauceCoverthetintightlywithfoilusing2layersifnecessarytocreateatightsealReturntotheovenandcookforabout4hoursuntilverytenderifyouhaveameatthermometeritshouldregister70degC

ForthemashputthepotatoesinapanofcoldwaterwithatablespoonofsaltandbringthemveryslowlytoasimmerCookuntilverysoftbutnotfallingapartDrainthroughacolanderplacethecolanderoverthepanandreturnthepantotheswitched-offhobndashtheresidualheatfromthecookerwillallowthepotatoestosteamdryTheycanbeleftfor10minutesorsowhileyouheatthemilkandbutter

Placethemilkandbutterinapanwithfrac12teaspoonofsaltandheatgentlyuntilthebutterhasmeltedPassthepotatoesthroughapotatoricerintothewarmedbutterandmilk(apotatoricerisaninvaluabletoolforcreatinglighteven-texturedmashonceyoursquovetriedoneyoursquollwonderwhyyouevermademashanyotherway)Stirtocombinethentastetodecidewhetheryouwouldpreferalittlemoresalt

Whenthebeefisreadyremovefromtheovenandleavetorestforabout15minutesbeforecarvingServewiththemash

PigeonBreastswithBeetrootPearlBarleyandBordelaiseSauce

TheironyofservingpigeonandpearlbarleytogetherisnotlostonmanyofourcustomersparticularlythefarmerswhoeatwithusTheyhaveseenmanyagreedywoodpigeonfeastingontheirbarleycropBordelaisesauceisaslowlyreducedmixofstockandredwineWeliketouseDetroitbeetrootwiththepearlbarleyasitcontainsthemostmoleculesofgeosminthesmellthatwerecogniseasmoistsoil

SERVES44woodpigeonbreastsremovedandskinned(savethecarcassestouseforstockifyoulike)

alittleoil4largehandfulsofkalelargestalksremovedaknobofbutterseasaltandblackpeppersmokedsalttoserve(optional)

FORTHEBEETROOTPEARLBARLEY

300gpearlbarley1mediumbeetrootpeeledandcutinto1cmcubes200mlbrownchickenstock(seehere)FORTHEBORDELAISESAUCE

400mlredwine35gshallotsfinelychopped60gcarrotsfinelychopped40gmushroomsfinelychopped1tbspchoppedparsley2sprigsofthyme8peppercorns1bayleaf500mlbeefstock(seehere)

Rinsethepearlbarleyinasieveundercoldrunningwaterforafewminutes

RinsethepearlbarleyinasieveundercoldrunningwaterforafewminutestoremoveexcessstarchPlaceinasaucepancoverwithcoldwaterandbringtotheboilDrainandrinseundercoldrunningwateragainReturnthebarleytothepanandcovergenerouslywithwaterBringtotheboilreducetheheatandsimmerfor15minutesAddthebeetrootandcookfor20ndash30minutesuntilthebeetrootisaldenteandthebarleytenderDrainandreturnthebarleyandbeetroottothepanAddthechickenstockandcookoveramediumheatfor5ndash10minutesstirringregularlyuntilthebarleyhasabsorbedthestockandisglazedinappearanceSeasonwithsalttotaste

MeanwhilemakethebordelaisesaucePutalltheingredientsexceptthebeefstockinasaucepanandbringtoasimmerCookuntiltheliquidhasreducedtoabout2tablespoonsAddthestockandsimmerfor10ndash15minutesthenstrainintoapanCookoveramediumheatuntilthesaucelightlycoatsthebackofaspoonSeasonwithsalttotaste

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6LightlyoilthepigeonbreastsandseasononbothsidesPlacealargeovenprooffryingpanoverahighheatOncethepanissmokinghotaddathinfilmofoilPlacethepigeonbreastsinthepanskinned-sidedownLeavefor15secondsoruntillightlybrownedunderneaththenturnthemovergentlypressdownwithafishsliceandtransferthepantotheovenforabout3minutesthemeatshouldstillgivealittlewhenyoupressitwithafingerRemoveandtransfertoawarmplatetorestfor10minutesMeanwhilecookthekaleinalargepanofboilingsaltedwateruntiltender(nomorethan45seconds)Drainwellbeingsuretostrainoffasmuchliquidaspossibleandtosswiththeknobofbutter

Spoonthebarleyonto4servingplatesandarrangethekalearounditSliceeachpigeonbreastinto3andplaceontopPourthesauceoverandsprinklewithalittlesaltorsmokedsalt

SteamedLemonSolewithFondantPinkFirsGoldenBeetrootandNasturtiumRemoulade

ThedelicatefleshandsubtleflavouroflemonsolearebestpreservedbysteamingInanattempttoprotecttheyoungerfishandpreventdepletionofthespeciesCornwallhasenforcedabyelawthatonlylemonsolelongerthan25cmcanbefishedTherearenosuchrestrictionsintheEUsoyoushouldtryasfaraspossibletobuysolethathavebeenfishedsustainablyWheneveryoubuyfishitrsquosworthcheckingtheMarineConservationSocietyrsquosonlineguidetoseafood(wwwfishonlineorg)whichratesthesustainabilityofeachspeciesonascaleofonetofiveWehadforawhilebeendebatingwhatwerethebestaccompaniments

tofishwithallofusagreeingthatcapersfeaturedhighonthelistUnfortunatelytheytendtogrowonlyinwarmerclimatesandwewantedtouseahomegrownalternativeNasturtiumseedsfittedthebillperfectlyIfyoudonrsquothavenasturtiumsinyourgardenyoucouldofcourseusecapersRemouladeisamayonnaise-basedsaucetypicallymadewithfinelydiced

cornichonsorothergherkinsUsingwhatwehaveavailablecansometimesproveachallengebutinthisinstanceitproducedauniquesweetgoldenbeetrootsauce

SERVES42lemonsolefilleted400gpurplesproutingbroccoliseasalt

FORTHEGOLDENBEETROOTANDNASTURTIUMREMOULADE

1smallgoldenbeetroot215mlcidervinegar1tspgroundfennelseeds1eggyolk1tablespoonorchardhoney1teaspoonEnglishmustard1tspseasalt350mlrapeseedoil

350mlrapeseedoil1tbspPickledNasturtiumSeeds(seehere)chopped1tbspchoppedflat-leafparsley

FORTHEFONDANTPINKFIRS

1tbsprapeseedoil500gPinkFirApplepotatoes(orotherwaxypotatoes)cutinto4cmpieces250gbuttercutintocubes

FirstmaketheremouladePeelthebeetrootcutitinto1cmcubesandsaltitgenerouslyLeaveforabout10minutestodrawoutalittlemoistureThiswillaidthecrunchRinsethebeetrootbrieflyandputitinabowlBring200mlofthevinegartotheboilwiththegroundfennelpouritoverthebeetrootandleavetocool(Thevinegarwhichwillhaveanearthyflavourfromthebeetrootcanbesavedforsaladdressings)Placetheeggyolkhoneymustardsaltandtheremaining15mlvinegarinabowlandwhiskeitherwithanelectricwhiskonfullspeedfor1minuteorbyhandforalittlelongerThiswillallowtheacidstogotoworkontheeggproteinsAddtherapeseedoilinaveryslowtrickleandwatchtomakesureitisbeingfullyincorporatedwhilethemixercontinuestospinoryourarmisablurOncethemixturehasemulsifiedyoucanpourtheoilinalittlefasterEventuallythemixtureshouldhaveathickwobblyconsistencyDrainthebeetrootandstiritintogetherwiththepicklednasturtiumseedsandparsleyChilluntilreadytoservendashitwillkeepforacoupleofdaysinthefridge

Forthefondantpotatoesheattheovento200degCGasMark6PlacealargeovenprooffryingpanoveramediumheatuntilhotAddtheoilfollowedbythepotatoesandcookstirringuntilthepotatoesaregoldenalloverSeasonwithsaltandaddallthecubesofbutterplusasplashofwaterAllowthebuttertomeltthencoverthecontentsofthepanwithadiscofgreaseproofpaperPlaceintheovenandcookfor30ndash35minutesuntilaknifewillpassthroughthepotatoeswithlittleresistance

Seasonthesolefilletsrollthemupandspikeon4skewers(seephotographsopposite)YouwillneedatallpanwithalidtocookthefilletsontheirspikesBringafewcentimetresofwatertoasimmerinthepanthenstandtheskewersinitCoverandcookgentlyfor7ndash8minutesuntilthefishisjustcookedthroughRemovefromthepanandkeepwarm

Cookthebroccoliinapanofboilingsaltedwaterfor3ndash4minutesuntiljusttenderthendrainCarefullyremovethesolefromtheskewersandserveonthefondantpotatoesaccompaniedbythebroccoliandsplashesoftheremoulade

daggerNasturtiumsareavaluableplanttohaveinanygardenTheleavesattractblackflyandslugswhichmeansthattheseunwantedvisitorsleaveothernearbyplantsandvegaloneThewholeplantisediblewiththeflowerstastingmoremagnificentthanwildrocketTheirpepperytastemakesthemworthyoftheirnamewhichmeanslsquonosetwistrsquo(PickledNasturtium

Seedspicturedseehere)

SeaRobinwithFennelButterSauceandHerbedPinkFirs

GurnardusedtobesounprofitableforfishermenthatitwasmostlyusedasbaitordiscardedThankstoenvironmentalcampaignersandchefshoweverthespecieshasrecentlybeensuccessfullychampionedasfoodanditisindeedsuperblytastyItiswidelythoughtofasanuglyfishbutwethinkthatitspoutingmouthandbigblackeyeswouldnotbeoutofplaceinacartoonThegurnardrsquosancientnameoflsquosearobinrsquomadeitsinclusiononourmenu

essentialasitseemedsopertinenttoourlocationLegendhasitthatrobinsaretheguardiansoftheorchardsSearobinsgainedtheirnameduetotheirabilitytoproducesoundswiththeirswimbladdersandattachedmusclesItseemsthattheyareasrelentlesslyvocalasourlandrobinswhichsingallyearroundThedelicate-tastingskinofthisfishmakesasuperbmatchforthe

liquoricehintoffennelseedsFennelcanbeseenfloweringbetweenJulyandOctoberincentralandsouthernareasofEnglandandalongcoastlinesinWalesTheseedscanbekeptandusedallyearroundYouwillappreciatethataniseedadditiontoyourfoodinthedepthsofwinterwhenotherinterestingingredientsarescarceThesauceisavariationonaclassichollandaisemadewithroughlyhalf

theusualamountofbutterWeliketoservethiswithkale(seehere)

SERVES42gurnardscaledandfilletedadrizzleofoilaknobofbutterfineseasaltandblackpepper

FORTHEFENNELBUTTERSAUCE

100mlfishstock(seehere)75mlwhitewine1tspfennelseeds185gcoldbuttercutinto1cmcubes

adashofcidervinegar3eggyolks

FORTHEHERBEDPOTATOES

600gPinkFirApplepotatoes(orotherwaxypotatoes)cutinto4ndash5cmpieces

1tbsprapeseedorgroundnutoilaknobofunsaltedbutterahandfulofparsleychopped

Ensurethegurnardfilletsareasdryaspossiblebeforescoringtheskinwithasharpknifewithcuts1cmapart(Seeoppositeforourtipondryingthefishfillets)Tomakethesauceputthefishstockwhitewineandfennelseedsinasmallpanoveramedium-highheatandboiluntiltheliquidhasreducedto3or4tablespoonsStrainitintoaheatproofbowltoremovethefennelseedsandleavetocoolfor5minutes

AddtheeggyolkstothereducedstockandwhiskuntilfullyincorporatedSitthebowloverapanofbarelysimmeringwatermakingsurethewaterdoesnrsquottouchthebaseofthebowlWhiskthemixtureuntilitbecomesairyandthickndashlookforsoftpeaksasyouwouldwitheggwhitesAtthisstagewhiskinthebutterapieceatatimeensuringeachisfullyincorporatedbeforeaddingthenextAfterawhilelargerquantitiesofbuttercanbeaddedeachtimeSeasonwithfineseasaltandvinegartotasteTakethepanofftheheatbutleavethebowloverthewaterwhileyoucookthefishandstirthesauceregularlytopreventaskinforming

CookthepotatoesinboilingsaltedwateruntiltenderthendrainPlacealargeheavy-basedfryingpanoverahighheatWhenitishotaddtheoilquicklyfollowedbythepotatoesTosstocoatlightlywiththeoilandseasonwithfineseasalt

CookstirringuntilgoldenalloverthenaddthebutterandparsleyTossthroughandremovefromtheheat

Heatalargeheavy-basedfryingpanoveramedium-highheatVerylightlyoiltheskinofthegurnardfilletsandseasonwithalightevenlayeroffineseasaltandcrackedblackpepperPourathinfilmofoilintothehotfrying

seasaltandcrackedblackpepperPourathinfilmofoilintothehotfryingpanandaddthegurnardskin-sidedownCookoveramediumheatwithoutturningormovingthefishfor2ndash3minutesuntiltheskinturnsgoldenbrownFlipthefilletsovertakethepanofftheheatandaddalargeknobofbutterLeavetorestfor5minutesndashthefishwillfinishcookingintheheatofthepanToservespoontheherbedpotatoesintothecentreofeachplateandpressdownwiththebackofthespoontocrushthemslightlyPlacethegurnardfilletsontopandspoonagenerousamountofthesaucearoundthepotatoes

LiquidshighinaciditysuchascitrusjuiceandvinegarcanbeusedasflavourenhancersmuchlikesaltItrsquosnotnecessarilythetasteofvinegarorcitrusthatwewantinthesaucebuttheyliftrichheavyflavoursprovidingawelcomeacidityandacleaner

tasteWhenusedasaseasoningvinegarshouldnotbenoticeableIfitisobviousthenyoursquoveusedtoomuch

ToachieveacrispskinonthefishasmuchmoistureaspossiblemustberemovedbeforecookingLaythefilletsskin-sideuponaboardRunaknifebladeangledslightlydownthefilletfromtheheadendtothetailendusingtheknifeasasqueegeetopushthemoisturedownandoutoftheskinUsekitchenpapertowipeoffthemoisturethatcollectsontheknifeandatthetailendofthefishRepeatuntiltheskinfeelsdrytothetouchFlipthefillets

overandwithasharpknifecuteachoneinhalfataslightangleTurnthefilletsskin-sideupagainandscoretheskinwithcuts1cmapartAverysharpknifeorascalpelwillcomeinhandyhereBesurenottocutintothefleshndashitrsquosonlytheskinyou

wanttoscoreThishelpsstopthefilletscurlingintheheatofthepan

PineappleTurmericandGingerGlazedHamwithlsquoPiccalillirsquo

SaladsdonotgetmuchbetterthanthisoneGammonandpineapplehavebeenafamiliarcombinationonpubmenusfordecadesThereissciencebehindthispairingasweoftenfindwhenweanalyseclassicfoodcombinationsPineapplecontainstheenzymebromelainwhichisanaturaltenderiserformeatMexicoalsohasabromelainandporkloveaffairascanbeseenatthetacosalpastorstandsThisoutrageouslyscoffablestreetfoodcomprisessmallcorntacosfilledwithshavingsofporkthathasbeengrilled

underpineappleThejuicedripsontothemeatasitcookscaramelisingandtenderisingitintheprocessIntheUKthepineappleusedtobeasymbolofwealthandhospitality

ParticularlyduringtheeighteenthcenturypossessionofthisspikyfruitwassoprestigiousthattherewasaproliferationofpineapplepitsincountryhousesacrossBritainApineapplepitwasademonstrationoftremendousgrowingskillanddedicationTheenergyneededtogrowthistropicalfruitismonumentalndashtheprocessinvolvedamixtureofmoistheatfromfermentingoakbarkorhorsemanureintheeartharoundthepineappleandanintricatesetoffurnacesandchimneysforadditionalheatTherearetheruinedremainsofapineapplepitonprivatelyownedlandverynearBarleyWoodItbelongedtotheslave-tradeabolitionistWilliamWilberforceafriendandallyofourBarleyWoodbenefactorHannahMorewhobuiltBarleyWoodHouseinthelateeighteenthcenturyDuringDecemberpineapplesfromtheCaribbeanareinseasonTryto

findFairtradefruitthatsmellssweetatthebaseThisindicatesthatithasbeenpickedclosetoripenessaspineapplesdonotripenfurtherafterbeingpicked

SERVES8GENEROUSLY

1largepineapple250ggoldengranulatedsugar3tbspgroundturmeric50gfreshgingerpeeledandfinelydiced1ndash2kgfree-rangecookedham

FORTHEPICCALILLI

200gcidervinegar100gcastersugar20corianderseedsfrac12tspdriedchilliflakes100gshallotstoppedandtailedslicedinhalfthroughthetopsandseparatedintoindividuallayers1tbspgroundturmeric

100gcauliflowerflorets

100gGlazedStarAnisecarrots(seehere)Heattheovento200degCGasMark6TopandtailthepineappleandcutawaythespikyskinCutthefleshawayfromthecoreandplaceinablenderorfoodprocessorPulsetillsmooththenstrainthemixturethroughasievepressingwiththebackofaspoontoextractthejuiceReserve35mlofthejuiceforthesaladdressing(youwonrsquotneedtherest)PutthepulpinabowlandmixwiththesugarturmericandgingerThisistheglazingmixturefortheham

Placethehamflat-sidedownonabakingsheetandspreadtheglazingmixturethicklyoveritCookfor30ndash40minutesuntiltheglazeiscaramelisedSetasidetocool

ForthepiccalilliheatthevinegartoboilingpointaddthesugarandstiruntildissolvedAddthecorianderseedschilliflakesandshallotsandbringbacktoasimmerRemovetheshallotswithaslottedspoonandsetasidetocoolAddtheturmerictothehotliquidfollowedbythecauliflowerfloretsBringtoasimmerthenstirwellRemovefromtheheatandleavethecauliflowertocoolintheyellowvinegarItwillpickupthecolouroftheturmericasitcools

FORTHESALADDRESSING

85mlcold-pressedrapeseedoilorgroundnutoil25mlcidervinegar35mlpineapplejuice1tspgroundstaranise1tspDijonmustard2pinchesofsalt

FORTHESALAD

200gMiikepurplegiantleaves(orothermustardysaladleaves)100gsaladleaves(weuseamixtureofredfrillwatercressandlandcress)100gwinterlettuceleavesabunchofcorianderabunchofchrysanthemumleavesifavailable

Tomakethedressingplacealltheingredientsinablenderandblenduntilemulsified

emulsified

ArrangeallthesaladleavesonservingplatesreservingafewofthesmallerredfrillforgarnishIfithelpstocuttheMiikepurplegiantdownthendosoSlicethehamandplaceacoupleofslicesontopoftheleavesintertwinedwithpiecesofthedeconstructedpiccalilliFinishbylightlydrizzlingoverthedressingandgarnishingwiththereservedleaves

GlazedStarAniseCarrots

300gcarrotspeeledandcutinto25cmchunks20gsaltedbutter2staranise1tspsugarpinchoffineseasalt

HeatapanoveramediumheatThepanshouldbebigenoughtoholdthecarrotsinasinglelayerWhenthepanishotaddthebutter(thebuttershouldsizzlebutnotburn)ThesecondthesizzlingsubsidesaddthestaraniseandcarrotsTossthecarrotsthroughthebuttertocoatevenlythenaddthesugarandsaltAddabout330mlcoldwatertothepan(enoughtoalmostcoverthecarrots)andturntheheatuptohighItmaytake5ndash10minutesforthewatertoalmostfullyreduceandthenthecarrotswillbegintosizzleagainStirthecarrotsvigorouslysothattheybegincaramelisingevenlyonallsidesWhentheyareanevengoldencolourremovefromthepanandservestraightaway

daggerAnumberofapplestastingremarkablylikepineapplecanbefoundinBritishorchardsExamplesinourorchardareRibstonPippinand

BlenheimOrangePitmastonPineapplewasmostlikelygrownfromaGoldenPippinseedlingbyJohnWilliamsin1845atPitmastonHouseinWorcesterThissmallsweetandrussetapplehasremarkablepineappletonesandyellowflesh

WINTERSALADS

MarkthegardenergrowshiswintersaladleavesinpolytunnelsatthebottomofthewalledgardenTheyrsquoreonaraisedplatformhoveringoverthefieldbelowDuringwinterwecanusuallytellwhetherMarkisinbyatrailingplumeofsmokefromthelittlestovethatheatshiskettleHealsothrowstogetheranexcellentvegetablestewthatwilloftensitcookingonthestoveformostofthemorningTheviewthroughthetunnelsandoutoftheopendoorisawonderfulsightoverlookingthefieldbelowitgivestheimpressionofanentrancetoanotherworldThetunnelsareplantedwithanumberofleavesthatprovidefresh

succulenceandawelcomevitamininjectiontotheshortchillydaysofwinterInthesaladonhereweuseMiikepurplegiant(Brassicajuncea)ThisleafisclassedasavegetableandinsomeculturesisboiledandsteamedWeprefertoeatitrawandrelishitshotmustardflavourItisalsoanindicatoroftheweatherasitturnsadeeperpurpleasthetemperaturedropsOppositeMarkhasplantedwinterpurslane(Claytoniaperfoliata)AnativeofNorthAmericaitisalsoknownasminerrsquoslettuceasitwaseatenbyminerstofendoffscurvyIthasalily-pad-liketopandatendertrailingstemMatureleavesseethebloomingofatinyflowerthatpiercesthecentreInrecentyearsMarkhastakentogrowingchrysanthemumsfortheir

leavesTheyhaveadistinctivetangthatresemblespineapplePrisingitfromMarkrsquosmuddyfingersisatrickybusinessbutwellworthitAddingmoremustardheatandcolourisredfrillndashajaggedvarietycontainingtwoexcellentcompoundssinigrinandgluconasturtiinWhenthesinigrinintheleafisexposedtocompoundsintheairitreactsandcreatesmustardoilItisthisverymustardyoilthatgivesthedishonhereitsfireaperfectcomplementtothesweettenderham

EcclesCakeswithDorsetBlueVinnySauce

TherelationshipbetweensweetandsavouryisaninterestingoneSaltmakessweetingredientstastelessone-dimensionalsoyouperceivethemasbeingmoreflavourfulthantheyreallyarePerhapsthemostcommonexampleofthecombinationisourlong-standingtraditionofeatingcheesewithfruitNoonewouldraiseaneyebrowifyousuggestedaccompanyinganuttyRussetapplewithasliceofCheddarInYorkshirendashandinsomepartsofAmericandashservingapplepiewithapieceofcheeseiscommonplaceThisdishsprangfromtheBritishtraditionofpairingEcclescakeswitha

sliceofLancashirecheeseWestartedexperimentingwithanEcclescakerecipewhenweweretryingtofindsuitablepuddingsforasherryandgamenightattherestaurantWethoughtDorsetBlueVinnywouldbeaworthylocalalternativetoLancashirecheeseasitisequallycreamyyethasmoredepthHavingworkedoutthecorrectcheese-to-sherryratioforthesauce

depthHavingworkedoutthecorrectcheese-to-sherryratioforthesaucewepoureditovertheEcclescakesthathadjustcomeoutoftheovenhopingtheresultwouldbemorethanpalatableItworkedremarkablywellandhasbecomeourWestCountryversionofthetraditionalnortherndishWefeaturethisdessertregularlyonourdaytimemenuandfindthatsome

customersapproachitwithadegreeofnervousnessButweareyettomeetanyonewhodoesnotthoroughlyenjoyitswell-balancedquirkinessThesaucehasbecomesopopularthatcustomersoftenrequestitasanaccompanimenttowhichevercakehappenstobeonthedessertmenuWemustobservethatnoteverycakeisentirelycompatiblewiththesaucebutwhoarewetocurtailourcustomersrsquoinventiveness

MAKES14CAKES50gbutter90gdarksoftbrownsugar1frac34teaspoonsgroundmixedspice(seehereifyoursquodliketomakeyourown)270gcurrants

50gCandiedPeel(seehereorusegood-qualityboughtpeel)finelychopped1quantityofFlakyPastry(seehere)orgood-qualityshop-boughtpuffpastry1egglightlybeaten

demerarasugarforsprinkling

FORTHEDORSETBLUEVINNYSAUCE

250mldoublecream100gcastersugar40gDorsetBlueVinnycheese(orSticheltoncheese)crumbled50mlsweetsherrysuchasPedroXimeacutenezorBristolCream

Tomakethesauceputthecreamsugarcheeseandsherryinapan(includehalfthecurrantsifyouwanttoenrichtheflavouroftheEcclescakes)andheatgentlyuntilthecheesehasmeltedandthesauceissmoothStrainthroughasieveandsetaside(reservethecurrantsfortheEcclescakes)Thesaucecanbekeptinthefridgeforupto2weeks

TomaketheEcclescakesplacethebuttersugarandmixedspiceinasaucepanandheatthroughgentlystirringoccasionallyuntilthesugarhasmeltedintothebutterRemovefromtheheatandstirinthecurrants

meltedintothebutterRemovefromtheheatandstirinthecurrants(includingtheonesusedforthesauce)andthecandiedpeelSetasidetocool

Heattheovento180degCGasMark4TakethepastryoutofthefridgeandsetitonalightlyflouredsurfacewithoneoftheshortendsnearestyouRollouttoabout3mmthickUsingan11cmpastrycuttercutoutasmanyroundsasyoucanDividethefillinginto40gportionsandplaceoneportioninthecentreofeachcircleofpastryThismayseemlikealotbutitmakessensewhenyouareeatingthecakesNextyouneedtoenclosethecurrantmixtureinthepastryThiscanbequitetrickybutyouwillfindatechniquethatworksafteralittleplayingWedoitbypinching4lsquocornersrsquoofthecircletogetheroverthecurrantmixtureandthengentlyfoldingintheexcesspastryWhereyouarepinchingthepastrytogetherwillbetheundersidesoaslongasthefillingiscompletelyencloseditdoesnrsquotneedtolookperfectThepastryshouldsealitselfbutifnecessarybrushitverylightlywithwater

PlacetheEcclescakestherightwayupontheworksurfaceandshapeeachoneintoaneatroundwithaflattopThismayrequireasmallamountofmanipulatingUsingasharpknifeslash3horizontallinesacrossthetopLightlybrushthetopoftheEcclescakeswithbeatenegganddustwithdemerarasugarBakefor18minutesoruntilthepastryisgoldenbrownandcookedallthewaythroughTransfertoawireracktocoolfor10minutesthenservewiththesauceDingdangdoo

daggerMadefromthemilkthatisleftafterskimmingoffthefattomakebutterDorsetBlueVinnyisathriftywartimecheesebornoutoftheneednottowasteanythingItretainsitscreaminessbyreintroducingsemi-skimmedmilkpowdertothemilkonceitreachestheappropriatetemperatureLegendhasitthatthebacteriausedtobeintroducedbydraggingmouldyhorseharnessesthroughthemilkbeforeaddingtherennetandstoringthecheeseondampbagsnexttomouldybootsSadlyitisboringpenicillinbywayofblue-mouldsolutionnowadays

MilkStoutandChocolateSteamedPudding

ThisrecipeisacombinationoftwoofourfavouritethingsmilkstoutandaBritishsteamedpuddingWhenwefirstopenedTheEthicureanwedrankBristolBeerFactoryrsquoschilledmilkstoutonthelawnoverlookingthegardenIthadthemostremarkablebalanceofsweetnessandroastmaltthatwehadevertastedSincethisboozysummereveninglsquomilkstoutonthelawnrsquohasbecomeshorthandforlsquoHurryupletrsquosgoandhaveabeerrsquoMilkstoutwasfirstbrewedontheBristolBeerFactorysiteinthe1900s

anditsrecentrevivalwasanexcellentmoveDuringthebrewingprocessunfermentablelactosesugarisaddedgivingthebeeraresidualsweetness

unfermentablelactosesugarisaddedgivingthebeeraresidualsweetnessThispuddingservedwithaninappropriateamountofdoublecream

shouldberegardedasanewBritishclassic

SERVES6160mlBristolBeerFactoryrsquosmilkstout150gbuttercutintocubes235gcastersugar45gcocoapowder160gplainflour85mlsouredcream1largeegg2tspvanillaextract1frac12tspbicarbonateofsodadoublecreamtoserve

PlacethemilkstoutandbutterinasaucepanoverthelowestpossibleheatandwhiskuntilthebutterhasjustmeltedItisimportantnottooverheatthemixtureorthebutterwillsplitresultinginanoilypuddingAddthesugarandstiruntildissolved

Siftthecocoapowderandflourintothemixturein2lotswhiskingthoroughlyaftereachtoblendwellSetaside

LightlywhiskthesouredcreameggvanillaandbicarbonateofsodatogetheruntilcombinedAddthistothestoutandflourmixtureandwhiskbrieflytoincorporateoncemore

Thoroughlygreasea12litrepuddingbasinwithbutterAddthepuddingmixtureTakeapieceoffoillargeenoughtocoverthetopofthebasingenerouslyfoldingathickpleatinthecentre(thiswillallowthepuddingtoexpandduringsteaming)andplaceitonthebasintuckingtheedgesfirmlyundertherimPutthebasininasteamerbasketandsetitoverapancontainingabout10cmboilingwaterCoverandsteamoveralowheatfor2hourscheckingthewaterlevelevery30minutesandtoppingupwhennecessary

Removethebasinfromthesteamerandleavetostandfor5minutesTake

Removethebasinfromthesteamerandleavetostandfor5minutesTakeoffthefoilrunaknifearoundtheedgeofthepuddingthenturnitoutontoaplateYoursquollneedplentyofcreamasthispuddingisseriouslythirsty

PedroXimeacutenezandWhiskywithVermouthSmoke

EveryyearweholdasherryandgamenightpairingvarioussherrieswithatastingmenuofgamePedro-Ximeacutenez(PX)isalwaysthefavouritesherryandwelovepairingitwithEcclescakes(seehere)ThisvelvetysherryisthecolourofdarkwoodandwithitsraisinandcaramelflavourstastesalmostlikeChristmaspuddinginliquidformCombiningPXwithawhiskysuchasMacallan10YearOldFineOakandalittlevermouthsmokecreatesatotallyuniquecocktailEvenafterthelastfewdropshavebeendrunkmanycustomersaskforthedecantertostayonthetablesothattheycanbreatheinthelastofthetreaclesmoke

SERVES2100mlPX(welikeBodegasGutierrezColosiaPedroXimeacutenez)50mlwhisky(welikeMacallan10YearOldFineOakwhisky)

TOMAKEICESPHERES

WashlongballoonsoutbeforefillingthemwithwaterTieofftheballoonsandthenusestringtoseparatethemintothesizeofspherethatyouwouldlikeRememberthattheywillexpandastheyfreezeUsingdistilledwaterwillmeanthattheiceiscompletelyclearbuttheystilllookimpressivewhenmadewithtapwater

JackusesasmokeguntomakethisdrinkChillthePXandwhiskybystirringtogetherwithiceinamixingglassNextfilladecanterwithsmokeJackusesoakchipsthathavebeenusedtooakourVermouth(seehere)andthendriedPourthechilledliquidintothedecanterandpopinthestopperThesmokeshouldgraduallyformadensecloudPourintosmallglassesfilledwithplentyofice(weliketoputanicesphereineachglassseeleft)

Ifyoudonothaveaccesstoahandsmokeryoucanmakethisdrinkinabarbecuesmoker(seeTinCanandSolderingIronApproachhere)Placethedrinkinacontainerwithasmuchsurfaceareaaspossibleandleavetosmokefor1hour

NOTEWehaveexperimentedwithupscalingthisrecipeandbottlinglargerquantitiesthenleavingtomature(theNegronionherealsoupscales

wonderfully)WereuseSipsmithrsquosginbottles(thanksSipsmith)AtthetimeofwritingwehaveabottleofthiscocktailthatwasmixedthreemonthsagoWehavenoticedarealdevelopmentinthecomplexitiesofflavourastheelementsbegintofeatherinitbecomesdifficulttosensewhereonecomponentendsandanotherbegins

FennelSeedandGingerHotChocolate

WefirsttastedthiscombinationofchocolateherbandspiceattheAbergavennyFoodFestivalOurstallhappenedtobenexttothatofthechocolatierPaulAYoungandheverykindlygaveusafewofhiscreationstotasteWewerestruckbythesweetfragrantalmostmedicinalqualityofhismilkchocolatewithfennelseedandgingerOncethecoldweathercaughtupwithusatTheEthicureanweexperimentedwithafewhotchocolaterecipesandsettledonthisonewhichwethinkcapturestheessenceofPaulrsquosideaRomanescofennelseedsareharvestedatBarleyWoodwhentheseed

headsturnbrownThewholeheadscanbeputinapaperbagtodryAfterafewweeksastrongshakewilldeposittheseedsatthebottomofthebagTheseseedsareattheirabsolutebestwhentheyarestillalittlegreenTomakethefennelsugarwhizequalquantitiesofgranulatedsugarandfennelseedstogetherinablenderorfoodprocessorItcanbeaddedtoallsortsofdesserts

SERVES2COMFORTABLY

400mlmilk100gdarkchocolatewith70ndash73percentcocoasolidsgratedplusalittleextratofinish(weuseOriginalBeanschocolate)1tspgroundginger

20gdarkmuscovadosugarapinchofsalt2tspfennelsugar100mldoublecream

Gentlyheathalfthemilkinapanandaddthegratedchocolategingermuscovadosugarsaltandmostofthefennelsugar(saveapinchforsprinkling)StiruntilthechocolatehasmeltedintothemilkthenwhiskintheremainingmilkandthecreamDonotallowthemixturetoboilbutbringittoacomfortabledrinkingtemperatureIfyouhaveahandblendersubstitutethisforawhiskeitherwayforafrothyheadagoodamountofwhiskingisneeded

Servesprinkledwiththeremainingfennelsugarandafewshardsofchocolate

IfyouhaveaccesstoanespressomachinecombinethegratedchocolatewiththegingersugarsaltfennelandjustenoughmilktomakeathickpastethenheatitusingthesteamwandWarm2mugsandpourthethickspicedchocolateintothemSteamtheremainingmilkwiththecreaminametaljugusingthesteamwandThetrickistointroduceenoughsteamnearthesurfaceofthemilktocreateawhirlpoolthisshouldgenerateverylittlenoiseKeepahandcuppedaroundthesteamingjugWhenitistoohottoholdcomfortablystopsteamingTapthejugontheworktopseveraltimestopopanysurfacebubblesandthenswirltominimiseanyseparationbetweenfoamandliquidPourthisglossymilkontothethickchocolateAfteralittlepracticeitisrelativelysimpletocreateafewpatternsThissteamingprocesswillcreatethemicro-foamneededtomakeasilkyhotchocolate

RecipeList

NettleSoupwithCaerphillyStGeorgersquosMushroomswithAsparagusRibwortPlantain

MushroomJellyandAppleJellySweet-cureMackerelwithMorelsSpeltSodaBreadand

HorseradishAsparaguswithToastedSesameandHollandaiseSauce

ClearHamHockBrothwithPoachedEggsCaerphillyandCiderWelshRabbit

SmokedChipotleChilliesSmokedRoeDeerLoinwithWildRocketClampedCarrots

HoneyedWalnutsandWoodSorrelCurdCheeseCucumberFlatBeanAniseedandSesame

CrabSaladwithNewPotatoesPickledCarrotandSmokedPaprikaMayonnaise

SpringRadisheswithAnchovyCregravemeFraicheTroutwithKelpandShiitakeMushroomStockRiceFlatBeans

andSeaKaleGoatMeatballsMashLovageButterandMustardGreens

OxTonguewithSwedeParsleyandCiderVinegarOxTonguewithCauliflowerGilliflowerandHazelnuts

SaltMarshLambwithTidalGreensSteamedRabbitPudding

PorkJuniperandBlackIPAPiePearlBarleywithOldDemdikeandStGeorgersquosMushroom

RhubarbandCustardChocolateandSaltCaramelBrownieswithCherryand

ElderflowerSauceElderflowersyrup

StrawberryandRoseLemonadePuddingwithSaffronandCiderBrandyCustard

TheEthicureanVermouthBotanicalsVermouth

RoseLemonadeTheEthicureanCocktail

Negroni

SPRINGINTHEWRINGTONValehasauniquefeelThereisasenseofimminentactivitythatmomentbeforesomebodytellsyousomethingtheyhavekeptsecretforalongtime

ColourcomesfirstandthedaffodilsarestilloutinlateMarchbetweentheoutsidewallandthelowerorchardthickyellowcarpetsintheshadowsoftheappletreesJackisoutstalkingroedeerwithAlanDownagoodfriendandexperiencedstalkerbeforethenewshootsandleavesprovidetoomuchcoverDuringspringmorningsbeforeserviceMatthewandIainrolldownthesleevesoftheirchefrsquoswhitesandpickyoungnettleshootswithglovedhandsCarriedupthroughthegardeninapplecratesthenettlesarecarefullycleanedandendupasabrightgreensoupLumpsofGorwyddCaerphillyarefloatedonthesurfacemeltingtoanirresistiblegelatinoustexture

KaleradishesandrainbowchardareallreadyWefrythekaleinahotpanwithplentyofcidervinegarandsaltMarkplantstheradishesasacompanionplantbetweentherowsofgarlicWeslicetheseredrootsintosaladsndashsomearefieryandneedacoolingsomethingtosubduetheirheatTherubychardrequireslittlecookingandissmotheredunderagenerousmeasureofhollandaiseasabreakfasttreat

AsspringcontinuesonitspaththebluebellsflowerreplacingtheyellowdaffodilsTheyareadeepvioletblueNotmanypeopleknowthattheVictorianswouldstiffentheircollarswithcrushedbluebells

NexttheblossomcomesasuresignofthenewseasoneachblossomapotentialfruitFirstuparetheplumsanddamsonsTheseguardthewestwallsprayedoutwardsontheircanedespaliersPearsandcherriesquicklyfollowwhileapplesareslowerblossominginAprilQuincecomesnextweareproudofoursingletreewhichprovidesuswithenoughfruitformembrilloallyearlongMedlarsarelastcream-colouredflowersthatwillbecomeuglyfruitbutwithexcellentflavourPaulacanbefoundwalkingbetweenthetreesforecastingourfuturecropandthebumblebeesareoutfor

betweenthetreesforecastingourfuturecropandthebumblebeesareoutfornectar

AprilcanmeanonlyonethingtheasparagusseasonWepatrolthebedsatBarleyWoodkeeneyeshuntingforthefirstelusivespearstopushuptheirtightcrisptipsThispreciouscropisdevouredwithpoachedeggsorstraightfromthepanwithplentyofbutter

StGeorgersquosDaymarksthetimetolookforStGeorgersquosmushroomsTheonlyforagedmushroomsafetobeeatenrawithasanaturalflavourcompanionintheformofribwortplantainThisseedheadfoundinourorchardisafirmfavouriteofoursandthetwotogethermakeawonderfulseasonaldelicacy

MayheraldstheyellowflowersofmeadowvetchlingandcreepingcinquefoilfavouritesofthegrizzledskipperbutterflyPrimrosesarealsofloweringintheshadeoftheBramleytrees

InJunetheherbgardenlooksbeautifulWepinchoutthenewgrowthtomakebotanicalteasforourhousevermouthMarkrsquosstrawberriesbegintocropandweuseupthelastjarofthepreviousseasonrsquosjaminourroselemonadesteamedpuddingThejampanissetfirmlybackonthestove

NettleSoupwithCaerphilly

Thissouprsquosstrikingemeraldcolour(nettleshaveoneofthehighestlevelsofchlorophyllinthevegetablekingdom)mightleadyoutothinkofitasalightstarterDonotbefooledItisanextremelywholesomesoupthatcouldhelpyourunamarathonRomansoldiersaresaidtohavebroughttheirownsupplyofnettlestoBritainasarichsourceofproteintofuellongmarchesinthecoldwetclimatePerhapsthatiswhythissoupissopopularwithstaffattherestaurantwhenonbusyspringdaysyouwillcatchusallsippingamugofittokeepusgoingTheCaerphillyaddsacreamytextureWefavourGorwyddCaerphilly

madebyourfriendstheTrethowanfamilyattheirfarmsituatedbetweenLampeterandAberystwythItisoneofourall-timefavouriteBritishcheesesandweconsideritsWelshrabbitcapabilitiestobeunrivalled(seehere)Oysterspairremarkablywellwithnettlesandwersquodrecommendserving

thissoupwithoystersdroppedintoitatthelastmomentThereisanionicqualitytothemboththatjustsingswhentheyareeatenincombinationAchunkofbreadwithapatofsaltedbutterisalsoanexcellentaddition

SERVES4

alittlevegetableoil500gonionsthinlysliced250gceleriaccutintosmallcubes250gcarrotscutintosmallcubes1litrefishstockorvegetablestock(seehere)100ndash120gnettletipsfreshlypicked(theymustbeveryyoung)200gCaerphillycheesepreferablyGorwyddcutintosmallcubesrapeseedoilfordrizzlingseasalt

PlacealargepanoveramediumheatAddathinfilmofvegetableoilfollowedbytheonionsceleriacandcarrotsCoverandsweatforabout5minutesuntilthevegetableshavestartedtosoftenbutarenotcolouredAddthestockbringtoasimmerandcookuntilthevegetablesaresoftTheyshouldbesoftenoughtoblitzeasilyanythingbeyondthathoweverandtheflavourwillbegintodull

flavourwillbegintodull

TransferthesouptoablenderinbatchesthatfillitnomorethanhalffullandblitzuntilsmoothaddingthenettleswiththefinalbatchPourthroughafinesieveintoacleanpanChecktheconsistencyofthesoupifyouwouldpreferalooserfinishstirinalittlemorestockSeasonwithseasalttotasteandreheatverygentlyifthenettlesareheatedfortoolongtheyturnaveryunappealingshadeofdarkgreenServeinlargebowlsgarnishedwiththecubesofCaerphillyandatinydrizzleofrapeseedoil

daggerThebasetothissoupiswhatisknownasamirepoixAmirepoixreferstoonionscelery(orinthiscaseceleriac)andcarrotsintheratioof211ItisaveryclassicstartingpointincookeryandresultsinanoveralltastethatisgreaterthanthatofitsworthyingredientsWeoftenusethisratioofvegetablesforstocksandbasesofsauces

MUSHROOMS

WhenweopenedtherestaurantwereliedonseveralprofessionalforagerstobringussteadysuppliesofmushroomsWecannotemphasiseenoughtheimportanceofusingexpertsinyourownlearningprocessIfyouareeverindoubtaboutthetypeofmushroomyouhavefounddonottakeachanceTheconsequencescanbefatalItisacommonmistaketoforgetoneofthefinestwild

mushroomsnativetoBritainndashStGeorgersquosmushroomTheyarefoundaround23AprilStGeorgersquosDayandareavailableuntilearlyJuneTheirdistinctivearomahasbeenaptlydescribedasthesmellofBritishfieldsThismakesperfectsenseastheyoftenforminaringcompletelyhiddenunderlonggrassIfyoufindtheirsmelloverwhelmingpleasedonrsquotgiveuponthemWeareconvincedthattheytastebestwheneatenrawsotrythesmalleronesfirstasthesmelldevelopswithageandyoumightfindthemlesspungentFailingthatifyoucookthemtheirscentisgreatlycamouflagedWehaveheardthatsomerestaurantsfeelnervousabouthavingthemonthemenuyetwithexpertidentificationtherereallyisnoreasontodepriveyourselfofsuchaninterestingdelicacyStGeorgersquosistheonlyforagedmushroomthatcanbeserved

rawandwewouldalwaysadviseyoutocookothervarietiesInitiallyrawStGeorgersquostasteoffreshcucumberbuttheflavourdevelopsintosomethingmoreakintomelontowardstheendWeservethemwithasparagusandribwortplantainanotherforagedplantthatiseasytofindasitgrowscommonlyonlawnsandgreenareasSadlyitisnowconsideredaweedbutpleasehelpusreintroduceittoBritishcookingItiseasytoidentifythebulbshaveelongatedkernel-liketipsandonceyouspotititisimpossibletomissItinitiallytastesslightlybitterbutthisdevelopsintoanuttywoodyflavourndashoftenlikenedtothatofcepmushroomsndashthattiesinperfectlywiththeearthywoodland

notesoftheStGeorgersquosFormoreofourthoughtsaboutmushroomsseehere

StGeorgersquosMushroomswithAsparagusRibwortPlantainMushroomJellyandAppleJelly

WeusedtoforageformushroomsasoftenaspossiblebeforemovingtotheWalledGardenAlwaysladenwithtoomanybooksonthesubjectwewouldsetoutwithourlurcherhopingtotrainhertofindsomedelicaciesOurlackofexperiencemusthaverubbedoffonherasshewasmoreinterestedinstickspineconesandsquirrelsGraduallywelearnedtoidentifychickenofthewoodsparasolsandbeefsteakfungusForagingbecameoneofourfavouriteautumnalactivitiesAtfirstwetravelledfurtherawaythanweneededinourquesttobecomeamateurmycologistsWithtimethoughwelearnedthevaluablelessonthatthebestingredientsareusuallytobefoundonyourdoorstep

SERVES4

abunchofasparagus20smallribwortplantainflowerheads1tspmintleavespreferablyspearmint12ndash16summerpurslaneleavesorothersaladleavesfineseasalt

FORTHEMUSHROOMJELLY

250gStGeorgersquosmushroomsapinchofsaltfrac12tspagaragarpowder

FORTHEAPPLEJELLY

250gapplejuicefrac12tspagaragarpowder

FirstmakethemushroomjellyRemovethestalksfromthemushroomsandsetthecapsasideCleanthestalksthoroughlyandthenchopfinelyPuttheminapancoverwith250gwaterandsimmerfor15minutesStrainthecookingliquorthroughafinesieveintoacleanpanpressingwiththebackofaspoontoextractitallDiscardthestalksMeasurethecookingliquorandaddadashmorewaterifnecessarytotakeitbackupto250gSeasonwith

addadashmorewaterifnecessarytotakeitbackupto250gSeasonwithsaltrememberingthatinthisinstancealittlegoesalongwayReturnthepantotheheatandstirintheagaragaruntildissolvedTheliquorneedstoboilbrieflytohydratetheagarandactivateitsgellingpropertiesPourintoasmallplasticboxWeuseonethatgivesafinaldepthofabout1cmsowecancutthejellyintocubesbutfeelfreetoexperimentLeavetocoolthenplaceinthefridgeuntilsetItwillkeepfor4days

FortheapplejellyheatthejuiceinapanstirintheagaragarandbringtotheboiluntildissolvedLeavetocoolandthensetinaplasticboxasdescribedabove

TrimtheasparagusbyfindingthenaturalpointwherethestalksnapsclosetothebaseandbreakingitoffHaveapanoffast-boilingsaltedwaterreadyandabowloficedwatertooCooktheasparagusintherapidlyboilingwaterforupto2minutesbutnomoreRemovethespearsandchillthemintheicedwatertheywillretaintheirbrightgreencolour

Finelyslicethereservedmushroomcapsandlaythemon4platesDustwithfineseasaltLaytheasparagusspearsontopofthemushroomsCutthejellyintosmallcubesandaddateaspoonofeachflavourtoeachplatealongwiththeribwortflowersmintleavesandpurslaneEncouragementforallamateurmycologists

Sweet-cureMackerelwithMorelsSpeltSodaBreadandHorseradish

ThecombinationofmackerelaniseedandhorseradishoffersawiderangeofflavoursThecurestopsthemackerelinitstrackspreservingafreshionicsnapshotoftheoceanHorseradishisafamiliarcompaniontomackerelsinceitswarmthisgoodwithoilyfishInterestinglyfishareattractedtothesmellofaniseedaswellastastingsuperbwithitMackerelareadelicatefishthatspoilquicklysochooseline-caughtones

andmakesuretheyareveryfreshThesmalloneswiththebrightesteyesarebestandareoftencheaperthanthelargerfishTheflavourofmorelmushroomsisextraordinaryndashreminiscentofthe

richnessofbeefThemushroomsreleasesporesthatarepickedupandcarriedbythewindSearchingformorelsisadeeplyengrossingtasksowatchoutforlowhangingbranchesasyouhuntWehavefoundthemunderashandsycamoretheyfavourdyinganddeadelmsTheyhavehollowfruitingbodiesandahoneycombstructureBewareoffalsemorelsknownasElfinSandalsThehorseradishsauceisausefulstandbythatcomesoutwheneverwe

haveleftoversirloinorbrisketItrsquosalsoverygoodoncoldlambsmokedfishandhamandexemplaryeatenwithSalt-bakedBabyBeets(seehere)andoxtongueDiguptherootofahealthyhorseradishwashawayresidualsoilandpeeltherootYouwilllikelybeleftwith50ndash100g(Ajarofgratedhorseradishisafinesubstitute)WhengratedhorseradishreleasesacompoundcalledsinigrinandenzymesitmeetsintheairimmediatelybreakthisdowntoformmustardoilThearomaisguaranteedtohaveyouinrabbinicallyintensetearsOursmallkitchenbecomesariotoffauxwailingandlaughterwheneverwepreparethisThetaskisnowseenasanaidtocamaraderieandteambuilding

SERVES44mackerelfilletspinbonesremoved10gdriedmorelmushrooms(orceps)400mlcidervinegar1tablespoonaniseed300gcastersugar

300gcastersugarfineseasalt

FORTHESPELTSODABREAD

200gbrownspeltflour200gwhitespeltflour50gfineoatmeal(oruseporridgeoatsthathavebeenblendeduntilfine)1tspbicarbonateofsoda1tspsalt1tbsphoney375mlbuttermilk(ifunavailablemix25mlwhitevinegarwith350mlmilkandleavetorestfor5minutes)

25gbuttermelted

FORTHEHORSERADISHSAUCE

1horseradishrootfinelygrated2tbspcidervinegar4tbspcregravemefraicirccheorsouredcream1teaspoonchoppedchives1teaspoonchiveflowersseasalt

Laythemackerelfilletsflesh-sidedownonabedoffineseasaltandchillfor2hourstocurethenrinseThisgivesafirmer-fleshedresult

Rehydratethemushroomsbysteepingtheminnear-boilingwaterwithasplashofthevinegarfor10minutesStrainreservingtheliquorandthencheckeachoneisfreeofsoilandsandTheliquorthatremainswillbedelicatelysmokyandtrulyflavoursome

WarmtheaniseedthroughinadrypanuntilitspitsandcracksthencarefullypourthemushroomliquorintothepanleavinganyresidueofsoilorsandbehindItwillboiluprapidlyasithitsthehotpansotakecareatthispointTheevaporationwillintensifytheflavourofthemushroomstockAddthevinegarandheatthroughthenaddthesugarandstiruntildissolvedAddthemorelmushroomsandremovefromtheheatAllowthismixturetocoolthenpouritoverthefishfilletsPlaceinthefridgeforatleast2hours

coolthenpouritoverthefishfilletsPlaceinthefridgeforatleast2hoursandupto6hoursThesimple-to-makespeltsodabreadcanfillthisgapquitecomfortably

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6MixallthedryingredientsforthebreadtogetherinalargebowlthenmakeawellinthecentreAddthehoneybuttermilkandmeltedbuttertothewellandmixwithawoodenspoonuntilwellcombinedPutthedoughintoa900gloaftin(ora23cmspringformcaketin)linedwithbakingparchmentandplaceintheovenBakefor15minutesthenreducetheoventemperatureto160degCGasMark3andbakefor30minuteslongerTurntheloafoutontoateatowelandtapthebaseitshouldsoundhollowIfnecessaryreturntotheovenforafewminuteslongerCooltheloafonawirerackcoveringitwithateatowelifyoupreferasoftcrust

CombinethegratedhorseradishvinegarandapinchofseasaltStrainthroughasievediscardingtheliquidthencombinewiththecregravemefraicirccheorsouredcreamSeasontotastewithsaltandtopwiththechivesandthepurple-huedchiveflowersThesweetaniseandmorelmackerelcannowbeliftedfromitssouseandservedwithchunksofbutteredsodabreadandtheirresistiblehorseradish

AsparaguswithToastedSesameandHollandaiseSauce

InaquietcornerbeyondthegardenwallsshelteredononesidebyasetofimposingcobnuttreesandguardedontheotherbydenseVictorianbayhedgesyouwillfindoneofourfavouriteingredientsgrowingsilentlyinitssandybedFormostoftheyeartheasparagusbedslookdesolateandgreylikeminiaturedunesinsomeforeignlandTheirdrabappearancemeansthattheyareoftenoverlookedbyvisitorstotheWalledGardenHowevertheyareregularlydisturbedbysquirrelstryingtoburythecobnutstheyhavelaboriouslycollectedfromtheneighbouringtreesWhentheasparagusspearsbegintogrowandweseetheirshyheadsstartingtopokeoutitisanintenselysatisfyingfeelingThenewsthattheasparagusisreadyforpickingtravelsfastwhichisprobablywhyitisinvariablytheitemwerunoutoffirstonthemenuNothingreallypreparesyouforthetasteofasparagusfreshlypickedfromthegarden

pickedfromthegardenUnfortunatelytheoriginalasparagusbedsattheWalledGardendidnot

survivethehardyearswhenthegardenwasallowedtofallintodeepdisrepairReplicasoftheoriginalswerebuiltin1999ThebedsareunusualbecausetheyareraisedndashafeaturethathelpsstoptherootsdrowninginsoddenclaysoilThevarietyisunknownbutwedoknowthattheywereplantedwiththeemphasisonflavourratherthansizeMatthewisconvincedthatasithasanunusualpurpletingetothetipandwhitebaseitmustbeFormbyasparagusfromFormbyinMerseysideWethinkhejustmissesthenorthwestalittlebuttheydobothlovesandysoilsoperhapsheisontosomethingTobeabletocutfreshasparagusfromthecornerofthegardeneverymorningandshareitwithourcustomersisoneofthethingsthatmakesusfeelveryluckytobealiveWechoosetoscattertoastedsesameseedsoverthisdishastheyaddasoftnuttycrunchtoadelicateingredientPeopleareoftenputoffbytheseemingcomplexityofhollandaisesauce

butthemethodoverleafoffersaneasywaytoachieveaconsistentresulteverytimeWeflavouritwithvintagecidervinegarinsteadofthemoretraditionallemonjuiceandfinditaddsanewdepthandaslightlyoakytasteWealsousesaltedbutterratherthanunsaltedOurfavouriteisMarylandwhichisproducedinSheptonMalletrelativelyclosetousandisquitesaltywithroughlytwopercentsaltWefindthatthesaltinessofthebutterbalancestheinherentacidityofthevinegarAlternativelyyoucoulduseanunsaltedbutterandseasontotastewithfineseasalt

SERVES4

2tbspsesameseeds4sprigsoftarragon20asparagusspearstrimmed

FORTHEHOLLANDAISESAUCE

3eggyolks1tbspvintagecidervinegarsuchasOstlerrsquos125gchilledsaltedorunsaltedbuttercutinto1cmcubesseasalt

Firstmakethehollandaisesaucefillasaucepantwo-thirdsfullwithwaterandbringtoarapidboilPuttheeggyolksandvinegarinaheatproofbowlandwhiskforabout1minuteuntilpaleandfluffyTakethepanofboiling

andwhiskforabout1minuteuntilpaleandfluffyTakethepanofboilingwaterofftheheatandsetthebowloveritensuringthebaseofthebowlisnottouchingthewaterQuicklyaddallthebuttertothebowlandwhisksteadilywithaballoonwhiskuntiltheheatfromthewatermeltsthebutterandcookstheeggsAfterafewminutesofconstantgentlewhiskingthehollandaisewillthickenWhenitistheconsistencyofathincustardtakethebowloffthepanandcontinuewhiskinguntiltheconsistencychangestothatofanimmaculatevelvetycustard

ToastthesesameseedsinafryingpanoveralowheatuntiltheyarelightgoldenbrownOncetheybeginbrowningtheycanburnveryeasilysokeepyoureyeonthemandstirregularlyforanevencolourRemovefromthepanandleavetocool

PlacethetarragoninapanlargeenoughtofitasteamerbasketontopAdd7ndash8cmofboilingwaterplaceonamediumheatandputthesteamerbasketonitWhenthewaterissimmeringaddtheasparagustothebasketcoverandsteamfor3ndash4minutesuntilthespearsaretenderbutretainabitofbite

Toserveplacethespearson4servingplatespouroverthehollandaiseandgarnishwiththetoastedsesamePoachedeggs(seehere)wouldmakeaworthyadditiontothisdelightfulstarter

ClearHamHockBrothwithPoachedEggs

ThisbrothisamarvellouslynourishingclearandbalancedliquidToachievesuchclarityweneedtoactlikewaterfollowingthepathofleastresistanceexercisingpatiencewegetwhereweneedandtherewardistwofoldwithstockasclearaswaterfromababblingmountainbrookandasdeepasPoseidonrsquosrealminflavourWhenthepoachedeggyolkisbrokenthedishchangesbeforeyoureyesandanewdepthofrichnessbecomesobvioustothetongueThebrothmustbemadewellinadvanceasithastobefrozensoonafter

its5hoursinthepanandthendefrostedovernightinthefridgeThismayseemalongprocessbutonceyoursquoveexperiencedtherewardsandknowwhatrsquosinstorethenexttimewillbeabreezeYouwillendupwithmorestockherethanyouneedforthisdishbutitkeepswellinthefreezerWecookharicotbeansinitanduseittorehydratedriedmorels(seehere)amongstotherthingsTheonlywaytogetperfectpoachedeggsistouseeggsasnewlylaidas

possibleWithinoneortwodaysisbestsobefriendsomeonewiththeirownpeepofchickensorconsideraidingthecommendableworkofTheBritishHenWelfareTrustbyrehomingsomebatterychickensyourselfandhavingaccesstotrulyfresheggseveryday

SERVES44veryfreshorganiceggscidervinegar150grainbowchardcuthorizontallyinto25cmstrips1lovageleaffinelyslicedseasaltandblackpepper4wildvetchtipsorpeashootstogarnish

FORTHEHAMHOCKBROTH

1hamhock1bayleaf1clove1staranise2peppercorns

2peppercorns2corianderseeds4lovageseeds(orfennelseeds)2parsleystalks100gonionsdiced50gcarrotdiced50gceleriacdiced

FirstmakethebrothWashthehamhockwellundercoldrunningwaterandplaceitinalargepanCoverwithcoldwaterbringtotheboilthenimmediatelydiscardthewaterandrinsethehockoncemoreThiswillremoveimpuritiesthatmightcloudthestocklateronPutthehockbackinthepanfillwithplentyofwatercoveringthehockcompletelyandbringbacktoagoodrollingsimmerAddthebayleafandspicesandsimmerfor2frac12hoursregularlyskimmingoffanyimpuritiesthatrisetothesurfaceTopupwithmorewaterifnecessarytokeepthehockcoveredMakessurethestockissimmeringwellsothetemperatureishighenoughtoextractthegelatinefromthemeat

After2frac12hoursaddthevegetablesandcookforanother2hoursmaintainingahealthyrollingsimmerandtoppinguptheliquidlevelasnecessaryRewardyourpatiencewithalittlesnippetofthemeltinglysofthockonceitisremovedfromitscookingliquorWorththewaitSetthehockasidetocoolalittleandstrainthestockthroughafinesieveintoalargebakingtinndashthewidesurfaceareawillallowittocoolrapidlyWhenthehockiscoolenoughtohandleprisethemeatawayfromthebonesandbreakitintomanageablepiecesLaythesepiecesoutonasimilarshallowtraytocoolquicklythencoverandrefrigerate

Youshouldhaveabout2litresofstockFreezeitin4tubsthenadayortwobeforeyouplantomakethesoupturnout2ofthefrozenblocksandwrapthemin2layersofmuslinPlacetheminasievesetoverabowllargeenoughtoholdthethawedstockthenputtheminthefridgeThegelatineimpuritiesandfatwillstaysolidinthemuslinatfridgetemperaturewhilethestockwillrunclearbelowResisttheurgetosqueezethemuslinitwilldraindryeventuallyThistechniqueyieldsabouthalftheinitialfrozen

weightofstockinfinishedclarifiedstockInourexperiencethisisalittletooconcentratedandwilltakeaboutathirdextrawater

TheeggscanbepoachedinadvanceofservingBringapanofwatertoalightsimmerthenturnofftheheatandleavefor2ndash3minutesThewatercandropaslowas80degCandstillcooktheeggCrackaneggontoalargeslottedspoonandshakeitgentlysothewateryalbumendrainsoffandthetightlyboundalbumenremainsonthespoonGentlydroptheeggintoaramekinandrepeatwiththeremainingeggsputtingeachoneinaseparateramekinSubmergethebaseofeachramekininthehotwaterthenturntheramekinoverandtipouttheeggLettheeggssitundisturbedfor3frac12ndash5minutesdependingonsizeTheaimistocookthewhitewhilekeepingtheyolkrunnyRemovetheeggsusingaslottedspooninthesameordertheywentinandlowerthemintoabowloficedwaterThiswillstopthecookingTheeggscanbepoachedinadvanceandkeptinthefridgefor2days

CommendyourselfasthebuildingofthedishbeginsHeatthebroththroughdilutingittotastewithaboutathirdofitsvolumeinwaterifnecessaryandseasoningwithasplashofcidervinegarandsomesaltTokeepthebrothclearwerecommendreheatingthehockandcookingthechardseparatelyinsimmeringwaterAddthehamtoapanofsaltedwaterandcookatagentlesimmerforaboutaminutethendrainBlanchthechardinthewaterforabout30secondsthendrainwellIfyouhavepoachedtheeggsinadvancereheatthembybringingapanofwatertoasimmerremovingitfromtheheatthendroppingtheeggsinandleavingfor1minuteArrangethehamchardandeggsin4bowlsandgarnishwiththelovageleafandapinchofsaltoneacheggGentlypourthehockbrothoverthemcracksomeblackpepperoverthedishanddresswiththevetchtipsorpeashoots

CaerphillyandCiderWelshRabbit

ThisisastapleatTheEthicureanandthesmellinthemorningastherabbitismadeisintoxicatingServedalongsideapileofMarkrsquossaladleavestheflavoursareacidicsweetsaltyrichandforemostsavouryManyrecipescallfortheinclusionofstoutorporter-stylebeersOursisverymuchaWestCountryaffairandwechoosePerryrsquosMorganSweetcideronaccountofitssweetacidicfruitinessbutanygoodmedium-sweetciderwillsufficeCiderpairsverywellwithCaerphillyWhilebeerwoulddominatethischeesersquoscitrusyandmushroomyearthinessthecidersingsinchorusThesciencebehindusingCaerphillyoramatureCheddarisvery

straightforwardwedonrsquotwantastringyWelshrabbitCheesessuchasEmmentalcontaincaseinmoleculesthatarelinkedbycalciumforminglongfibresndashessentiallythestringinstringycheeseGorwyddrsquoscitrusflavourindicatesahighlevelofaciditywhichremovessomeofthecalciumItsunctuoustexturemeansahighermoisturecontentthatwillseparatecaseinmoleculesAllinallitrsquostheperfectcheeseforrarebitMatureCheddarisagoodalternativeTheripeningenzymesareratherpartialtocaseinandtheydevouritpreventinganylongstring-likefibresforming

SERVES6alargeunslicedwhitetinloaf100gverysoftsaltedbutter(or100gbeefdrippingmelted)150mlmedium-sweetcider100mlsinglecream2tbspvintagecidervinegarsuchasOstlerrsquos2tbspWorcestershiresauce2pinchesofsmokedpaprika250gGorwyddCaerphilly(ifyoucanrsquotgetGorwyddanagedCheddarmakesthebestsubstitute)coarselygrated

2eggyolks(omitifusingCheddar)

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6Cuttheendsoffthewhiteloafandthendividetheloafinto6slicesThethicknessoftheslicesisoneofthefactorsthatmakesthisrabbitsoperfectwithacrunchyexteriorthatgiveswaytoabrilliantlysoftwhiteinteriorUsingapastrybrushlightlybrush

waytoabrilliantlysoftwhiteinteriorUsingapastrybrushlightlybrushtheverysoftbutter(orthemelteddripping)onbothsidesofthebreadPuttheslicesonabakingsheetandbakefor8minutesturningthemoverhalfwaythroughBothsidesshouldbeverylightlygoldenLeaveonawireracktocool

PutthecidercreamvinegarWorcestershiresauceandpaprikainanon-sticksaucepanplaceoveramediumheatandcookstirringregularlyuntilthemixturehasreducedtotheconsistencyofdoublecreamItshouldbeadeepshadeofbrownLowertheheatandaddthecheeseandtheeggyolksifusingStiruntilthecheesehasmeltedthenwhiskthesauceuntilverysmoothandglossyLeavetocoolandthickentoapasteconsistency

SpreadthemixtureedgetoedgeonthetoastedbreadReturnthemtotheovenfor4minutesthenplaceunderahotgrilluntilevenlybrownedEnjoywithageneroushelpingofdressedsaladleavesAsthelocalBristolianswouldsaylsquoGertlushrsquo

daggerRestingbetweenLampeterandAberystwythontheCeredigioncoastlineisGorwyddfarmtheplacewhereone-timearchaeologistToddTrethowandevelopedhisrecipeHebeganhischeesecareerafterlearningfromthegreatWestCountrycheesemakerChrisDuckettFinallyhemovedhiscampervanhomeduringhislsquocheeseapprenticeshiprsquoandreturnedtothefamilyfarmtomakeGorwyddCaerphillyTherearetwodistincttypesofCaerphillythefirstandoldestwasthecheesemadebyhandusingexcessmilkthatwouldhaveotherwiseturnedbadItwasafarmhousecheesetobeeatenafteradayinthefieldsThesecondbringsusbacktoSomersetandtotheCheddarmakerswhodesiredaquick-maturingcheesethatwouldenablehealthycash-flowduringthelongmaturationperiodsoftheirCheddar

SMOKING

HumanshavealwaysbeendrawntothehypnoticandtranquilqualitiesoffireTherearefewthingsthatwelovemorethansittingaroundafirewiththeclosestoffriendsandfamilyputtingtheworldtorightsoverabottleofwineFiresmeansmokeandsmokedfoodwasperhapsaby-product

ofdrying(seealsocuringhere)whenfoodwashungoverfiresandallowedslowlytodrythuspreservingthemeatfromrottingNowadaysfoodsthataretobesmokedundergoapreliminarystepofcuringbeforebeingsmokedSmokingisusedasanadditionalformofpreservationbutnotanessentialoneThesedayssmokingisusedforitsapplicationofflavourTherearetwomethodshotsmokingandcoldsmokingWith

theformerhotsmokefromafireiseitherdirectedintoasealedchamberthathousesfoodorachambercanbedirectlyplacedoversmokinglogsThemaingoalofhotsmokingistocookandpasteurisethemeatTemperaturesinsidethechambersusedtohousethefoodcommonlyreach80ndash110degCColdsmokingasthenamesuggestsusescoldsmoketo

flavourthefoodTraditionalmethodsuseasealedcontainerwithhooksfromwhichtohangfoodhowevertheheatsourceisseparateUsuallythefireishousedinaseparatechamberjoinedtothefoodchamberviasomepipingSmokeescapesfromthefireboxintothepipeandtravelsintothefoodchamberThefurtherthesmoketravelsthemoreitcoolsonitsjourneyThegoalofcoldsmokingwasoriginallytodryfoodGiving

microbeslesswaterinhibitstheirgrowthFoodsusedtobecoldsmokedforlongperiodsoftimeattemperaturessomewherearound20ndash30degChoweverthisposedalargeriskforthesafetyoffoodastheseareperfectconditionsformicrobialactivityCuringsaltswereoftenusedtopreventthisfromhappeningThankstotheinventionofthetrustyfridgetheprimaryreasonforcoldsmoking(preservation)islessimportantandwecannowutiliseitpurelyfortheflavouritadds

utiliseitpurelyfortheflavouritaddsThepointjustbeforewoodignitesistheperfectpointfor

smokingfoodasthisiswhenthetemperatureishighenoughtoremovethemoreunpleasantelementsthatcanbeinthesmokeWoodsmokingatcoolertemperaturescanoftentarnishfoodswithanacridlessfavourableflavourAnyhigherthanthisandthewoodwilligniteSmokingisadelicatebalancingactandtakesskilland

experienceIfyouhaveneverexperimentedwithsmokingbeforethenwerecommendtryingafewofthetechniqueslistedhereBewarnedthatitisanincrediblyaddictivehobbyandonceyoubegintorealisethevariablesanddifferentmethodsitcanbecomeanall-consumingobsessionndashsomethingthatMatthewandIainknowonlytoowellSincetheystartedsmokingwhatevertheycouldlaytheirhandsonthereisoftensomethingsmoulderingawayinthekitchenunderclosescrutinyIaincanoftenbeseenwieldingalargeblowtorchwithaslightlyexhaustedmaniclookinhiseyewhileMatthewtakesafewstepsbackcoveringuphischesthairfromthenakedflameWewillintroduceyoutoafewbasicsmokingmethodsthat

aregreatforthehomesmokerandwewillhighlighttheprosandconsforeachThereareentirebooksdevotedtothisvastandfascinatingsubjectandifthesemethodspiqueyourinterestwecanstronglyrecommendpurchasingone

TincanandsolderingironapproachJackhasexperimentedalotwiththismethodItisoneoftheeasiestandmostaccessibletothehomeuserhoweveritdoeshaveitsdrawbacksFirstthishastobedoneoutsideYouneedatincanthatisnotlacqueredontheinsideoldcondensedmilktinsareperfectPackdrywoodchipsintothecanandatthebaseofthecanonthesidemakeasmallincisionwithascrewdriverndashitshouldbelargeenoughforthetipofasolderingironPlacethetipofthesolderingironintheholeandturnonThenputboththecanandtheironinthebaseofasmallWeber-stylebarbecuewiththebarbecueshelfplacedoverthecanPointthecansothattheopeningisclosetothewallofthebarbecueandawayfromthemeatPlacethefoodyouwanttosmokeonthewireshelfon

themeatPlacethefoodyouwanttosmokeonthewireshelfontheoppositesidetothecanandpoponthelidClosealloftheventsonthebarbecueIfyouaresmokingmeatorfishwerecommenddoingitinhalf-hourincrementsYoucancheckontheinternaltemperatureofthebarbecuewithathermometerTakethemeatouttryalittleandseewhatyouthinkIfyouwantmoresmokethenplacebackinforanother30minutesFoodsthatneedtobecookedbeforetheycanbeeaten(raw

meatfishetc)shouldneverbesmokedformorethanfourhoursbutthenitisveryunlikelythatsmallcutsofmeatorfishwillrequirethislengthofsmokinginanycaseIfsmokingthesetypesoffoodsplacealargebowloficeunderthewirerackontheoppositesidetothecandirectlyunderthefoodstuffThiswillcoolthesmokedownsomemoreIfsmokingforlongperiodsoftimethechipsinthetincanwillneedreplacingevery6ndash8hourstoensureyougetthebestfromthistechniqueSomepeopleadvocatetheuseofacombinationofdampand

drywoodchipsbutwewouldstronglyrecommendifusingthismethodthatyouuseonlydrychipsEventhismethoddoesnotachievehighenoughtemperaturestoburnthemaincarcinogeniccomponentsofsmokeandcombiningdampwoodlowersthepyrolysistemperature(thetemperatureatwhichmoleculesinthewoodarebrokendown)andresultsinevenmoreacridandacidiccomponentsflavouringthefoodIfyouareattemptingthismethodsetupthebarbecuecloseto

adoorwayoronapatioTheoptimumtimeforsmokinglikethisisduringwinterasthecoolertemperaturesmeansaferconditionsIfsmokingonasunnydaythenkeepwellshadedThisisafairlyexperimentalapproachandonethatnottoomanypeopleknowaboutConsideringhoweasyitiswersquodliketogetpeoplehookedonsmokingthroughthesebasictechniquesbeforeencouragingfurtherexperimentationwithsomeofthetechniquesoverleaf

BlowtorchandicemethodAgainthisispracticalforthehomesmokerandallowsplentyofscopeforexperimentationInasmall-to-medium-sizedliddedroastingtrayplacewoodchipsorsawdustononesideofthebaseOntheoppositesideofthetrayplaceabowloficeIgnitethechipsordustthoroughlyusingablowtorchCulinaryblowtorcheswillnotcutthemustardonthisoneastheydonotgiveoffenoughheatyouwillneedaplumberrsquosone(askforacopperbrazingtorchatyourlocalplumbingsupplier)BesurenottobuyatorchthatrunsoffMAPPGasthesecontainadangeroustypeoffuelthatisnotsuitedforculinaryuseStartthewoodsmoulderingbeforeplacingawirerackontop

withthefoodonthencoveringwiththelidWeighdownthelidifitdoesnotformatightsealandleavefor30minutesRemovefromthesmokerandtestthefoodtoseeifitissmokyenoughforyourtasteYoucanalsousedifferenttypesofwoodforthismethodThe

boysinthekitchenhaveexperimentedwithsmokingbutterwithfreshbayleavesNotallofourexperimentshavebeensuccessfulndashinfactsomehavebeenappallingbutyouneverknowuntilyoutryWhilethismethoddoesachieveahottertemperaturethanthetincanitisstillnotaseffectiveatburningcarcinogensandacridcomponentsofsmokeassomeotherslightlymorecomplextechniques

HotpanmethodAlthoughthisessentiallyhotsmokesyourfoodyoucouldtrycombiningitwiththeprevioustechniquendashitsavesbuyinga

combiningitwiththeprevioustechniquendashitsavesbuyingablowtorchHeatupalargepanuntilsmokinghotAddathinlayerofwoodchipsandgetthemsmokingtooDecantthechipsintooneendofaliddedroastingtraywithabowloficeattheotherendFollowingtheremainingstepsforthepreviousmethod

SmokegunmethodAsmokegunisahand-helddevicethathousesasmallchambersimilartothatofasmokingpipeandcontainsafanYouloadthechamberwithsawdustorwoodchipslightthemandthenturnthefanonThefanpullsairthroughthechamberandfeedsoxygentothefireComingoutofthesmokegunisarubbertubethatallowsyoutodirectwhereyouwantthesmoketogoThismethodforthehomeuserisincrediblyeffectivePackthebaseofthechamberwithsawdustandlightuntilsmoulderingWhensmoulderingtopwithwoodchipsofyourchoiceandlightthewoodchipsWhileyoudothisturnthefanonThesmokefromthewoodpassesthroughahotbaselayerofsawdustthatburnsanyacridcomponentsofthesmokeWhatyouareleftwithisessentiallylsquogoodsmokersquothatwillflavouryourfoodinapositivewayTheonlycompanyweknowofthatmanufacturesasmokegunisPolyScienceSmokegunsretailaroundthepound50markandareavailableonlineUltimatelyexperimentingwithfoodandtechniquesshouldbe

funThecarcinogenicnatureofsmokehoweveritcomesisnothealthytohumanbeingssoweadvisetakingcareandlimitingtheamountsofsmokedfoodsyoueatThatsaidsometrulyspectacularflavourscanbeachievedandasalwaysweurgeyoutogetcreativelearnthebasicsandthenplayYoumayjuststumbleacrossacombinationortechniquethatshapesthefutureofcooking

SmokedChipotleChillies

ThechipotlechilliisajalapentildeothathasbeenlefttoripenontheplantitisthensmokedanddriedWealldevelopedaloveforthischillithroughPaucirclawhoregularlyreceivesdriedpackagesofthemfromMexicoHergrandmotherrsquoschipotlepickleisabsolutelyincredibleWesmokethewholechillieswiththeseedsinbutyoucantakethemoutifyoupreferamildersauce

20jalapentildeochillies(oranytypeofripechilli)

Werecommendusingabout15kgoffinewoodchipsndashoakorapplearegoodbutavoidresinouswoodsastheywilltainttheflavour

WhenyouarereadytosmokebeginbywashingthejalapentildeosFollowtheinstructionsforthetincanandsolderingironsmokingmethodonhereArrangethejalapentildeosontheoppositesidetothesmokingcanandthenclosethebarbecuelidIdeallyyouwanttosmokethejalapentildeosfor16hoursuntildarkandcrispEveryfewhourscheckthelevelofwoodinthecanandtopupasappropriateYoucanalsofinishdryingthechilliesinafanovenonabout50degCwiththedoorslightlyajarfan-assistedovensareperfectforthistask(Pleaseconsultoperatinginstructionsndashdisclaimer)StorethecooledsmokedchilliesinanairtightcontainerinacooldryplaceThechilliescanberehydratedinhotwatertheflavourisverystrongsolittleisneeded

SmokedRoeDeerLoinwithWildRocketClampedCarrotsHoneyedWalnutsandWoodSorrel

CuringtheloinmakesthemostofthispreciouscutWealsocoldsmokeitaddingextracomplexitytotheendresultThisstagecanbeleftoutifyoupreferEitherwayyouneedtopreparetheloinwellinadvanceasithastositinthecureforfivedaysTheoakchipsimpartaflavourthatcomplementstheblackcardamoma

spicethattastessmokedbecausethepodsaredriedoveropenflamesThesweetwalnutsbalancethesavourymeatWoodsorrelgrowsincarpetsonthewoodlandfloorandhasacitrustangthataddsacidityItalsogrowsinthedeerrsquoshabitatmakingitaveryfittingadditionindeed

SERVES4WITHPLENTYOFSPARELOINFORTHELARDER

1roedeerloinweighing1kgsilvermembraneremoved(askyourbutchertodothisforyou)

2handfulsofoakchipsforsmoking(orusethesmokegunmethodonhere)200gwildrocketalittlecidervinegar50gHoneyedWalnuts(seehere)2tablespoonswoodsorrel(orcultivatedsorrel)frac12tspfinelychoppedcrushedjuniperberries

FORTHECURE

6staranise6blackcardamompods2tbspjuniperberries1tbspblackpeppercorns35gfineseasalt15gdarkmuscovadosugar

FORTHECARROTANDBLACKCARDAMOMPUREacuteE

4blackcardamompods(seektheseoutinAsiansupermarketsasthesmokinessisveryvaluabletothechef)

200gcarrots(forclampedcarrotsseeopposite)sliced1ndash2tbsphoneyseasalt

Blitzalltheingredientsforthecuretogetherinafoodprocessororspice

BlitzalltheingredientsforthecuretogetherinafoodprocessororspicegrinderLaytheroeloinonalargepieceofclingfilmcoverwiththecuremixtureandrubitinthoroughlyleavingitinanevencoatingTightlywraptheloinintheclingfilmandplaceinthefridgefor5daysturningiteverydayorso

RemovetheloinfromthecuremixandrinseunderacoldtapmakingsureyouwashoffallthespicesHangthemeatinawarmwell-ventilatedarea(awarmpartofthekitchenorintheairingcupboardwilldo)for12hoursoruntilitiscompletelydrytothetouchndashatemperatureof25degCisidealsoadjustthetimeyouhangthemeataccordingly

InthemeantimeprepareyoursmokingboxfollowingtheBlowtorchandIcemethodonhere

PlacetheoakchipstoonesideofthebakingtrayOntheoppositesideplaceabowloficewithawirerackstooddirectlyaboveitPlacetheloinontherackUsingablowtorchheatthechipsstirringwithametalspoontoheatthemevenlyWhenthechipsareproperlyonfirecoverwiththefoilandweightdowntopreventsmokeescapingLeavefor30minutesThetimethattheloinsitsinsmokeisavariablethatcanbeplayedwithIfyoupreferasmokierflavourthenrepeattheprocesswithfreshwoodchipsOnceyouhavesmokedthemeattoyoursatisfactionremovefromthesmokerandchilluntilneeded

ForthecarrotandblackcardamompureacuteehalffillapanwithwateraddthecardamompodsandbringtoasimmerPutthecarrotsinasteamerbasketplaceontopofthepanthencoverandsteamfor35minutesuntilthecarrotsareverytenderindeedPureacuteeinablenderorfoodprocessorMixinthehoneyandsalttotasterememberingthatthisisthesweetcomponentofthisdishThinthepureacuteewithalittleofthesteamingliquorandblendagaintogiveavelvetytextureLeavetocoolthenchilluntilrequired

SlicetheroeloinfinelyatanangletomaximisethelengthofsliceDresstherocketincidervinegaralonethecarrotpureacuteewillprovideamplemoistureandsweetnesssonooilisrequiredPlacetherocketon4servingplatesandarrangetheroeloinwalnutsandsorrelontopthendotteaspoonsofthesmokedandhoneyedcarrotpureacuteethroughoutSprinklethejuniperberriesontoptofinishthissaporificdish

ontoptofinishthissaporificdish

WOODSORREL

OxalisAcetosellaOldEnglishAlleluiaThisdelicate-lookingplanthasaheart-shapedleafwithafolddownthecentrethesecordateleavesoccuringroupsofthreeFlowersappeararoundApriltoMaytheyarelilaccolouredwithdarkerveinsofthesamecolourAsthesundisappearswoodsorrelrsquosamorousleavesfoldtogethertomakeasmalltentshapeAtfirstlighttheyopenonceagainWeareluckytohaveseveralgoodspotsintheWestCountrywherewoodsorrelcanbefoundmoistandshadyplacesintypicallydeciduouswoodsWoodsorrellikestoshelterundermossandbrackenortheoddfallenlogItisalmostlemoninflavourandtheoxalicaciditcontainshastheeffectofstimulatingthesalivatoryglandsDonotpicktherootbutmakesureyoueatthewholestalkaswebelieveittobebettertastingthantheleafitself

CLAMPEDVEGETABLES

Clampingisanage-oldmethodofpreservationItsavestheautumncropofrootvegetablesandhasthebenefitofincreasingflavourandnutrientcontentAsanexamplecarrotswillincreasetheirvitaminAduringsixmonthsofstoringawayfromheatand

lightChefsareeversofondoftheseclampedrootsfortworeasonsTheincreaseinflavourandsweetnessisobviousbutmostimportantlytheyhavevegetablestomakevaluablestocks

throughthemonthsofFebruarytoMay

ToclampcarrotsbeetrootsparsnipsturnipsswedeceleriackohlrabiorpotatoesafewimportantstepsneedbefollowedYou

willneedafrost-freeshedorconcreteflooredgaragesomewoodentraysandagoodquantityofdampsandHarvestby

carefullyforkinguptherootsonadrydayinOctoberPickoutthelargerthick-coredandunblemishedrootsandtrimbackonlytheleavesInthecaseofbeetroottwisttheleavesratherthancuttopreventlsquobleedingrsquoanddonrsquotcutbackanygreencarrottopsastheyneedtoremainwholeRemoveanysoil(rubbingwithsandiseffective)andsendanydamagedorbrokenspecimenstothekitchenpost-hasteLaysandintothewoodentrayandplacetherootsinlayerstessellatingbutnottouchingCoverwithsandandrepeatuntilallarestoredUncovertherootsasneeded

takingcaretocoveranyremainingonesagainAcertainamountofcarrotscanbeleftinthegrounduntilspringpromptstheirgrowthagainbutthereisoftentherisktheymayturnwoodyandcrackIfyourcropwarrantsleavinginthegroundthen

coverwellwithstrawtoeasetheirliftingduringfrostsGiventhebenefitsforflavourandmineralcontentclampingisthebetter

option

HUNTINGDEERWITHALAN

WeregularlystalkwithourfriendAlanHeisahorticulturistacountrymanhereadsthelandscapeandwhispersthenamesofthethingsthatgrowcrawlrunandsingHehasawonderfullyclippedaccentlsquoJackrsquohewillsaylsquoLetrsquosconcentrateonthefirstcourseshallwersquoasthesightofStGeorgersquosmushroomsoftencausesdistractionsonaspringstalkDeeraremostactiveduringdawnandduskmeaningearly

startsandlatefinishesforthestalkerMorningsprovideacrystallinebeautyaswewalkthroughthelastfewfrostsoftheyearEveningsgiveusetherealsunsetsandthechancetowatchthelandsettledownforthenightAllthedeerinourareaareroeTheyareanativeBritishspecies(OldEnglishRaha)andare

spreadwidelyacrossBritainParticularlyinthesouthofEnglandthesedeerwerethoughttohavebeenallbutwipedoutduringtheMiddleAgesTheyarefoundpredominantlyinsmallgroupsoralonealthoughlargergroupswillfeedtogetherduringthewintermonthsRoewillfeedonberriesleavesgrassandyoungshootsTheyparticularlylikeyoungbrambleshootsandnewlycoppicedwoodlandEveninthefailinglightAlanrsquosgrinisperceptibleHenodsto

thesilhouetteofaroebuckasittracestheskylinewithitspin-likelegsitsearsflickingindependentlyWemustwaitforittodisappearoverthebrowofthehillhopingthatitwillprovideaclearshotwithasafebackstopontheothersideAtthistimeroedeerlookprettyscruffytheirwinterpelageisgivingwaytotheirsummercoatofchestnutredMerlinthelabradorisunconcernedbyourpotentialquarrypreferringtopushherlargeheadintothenearestpalmforascratchTheroebuckhassteppeddownfromtheskylineandhas

presenteditselfbroadsidewithasafebackstopforashotFromourpositionbodiespressedagainstthegroundwecanseethebuckleanforwardandtastetheairitslipsseekingawarningscentAlanstopsforaninstanttakesaimandslipsthesafetycatchbackBeforethebuckhasachancetoturnthereisabanganditfallstotheground

CurdCheeseCucumberFlatBeanAniseedandSesame

AccordingtotheBritishCucumberGrowersAssociationifallthecucumbersgrownintheBritishseasonwerelaidendtoendtheywouldgoalmostrightroundtheworldYetdespitethegreatnumberavailabletousaswithalotoffruitandvegetablesmostcucumbersareflowninfromEuropeorbeyondItseemsashamewhentherealityisthattheyarerelativelyeasytogrowintheUKHavingsaidthatgrowingcucumberscommerciallytakesalotofskillThecropsaresusceptibletodamagefrompestsmakingthemdifficulttogroworganicallyTheorganiccucumberswegetcomefromTheCommunityFarmwheretheteamensuresthatwearerarelyshortofseasonalproduceTheirlocationinChewMagnajust7milesawayisverygoodnewsforusOtherthanaquickcucumberpickleandadressingthissaladismadeto

orderhighlightingthewayfreshproduceatitsbestmarksthestartofaproductivesummerHerewemakeuseofcucumberandflatbeansbothofwhichgrowsplendidlyearlyinourglasshousesThesewillbeavailableforthosegrowingoutdoorsinlatespringtoearlysummerTheaniseeddressingworksharmoniouslywiththejuicycucumberanddelightfullysweetflatbeans

SERVES4100gflatbeanschopped1tspsesameseeds3youngcucumbers1tspaniseed(orfennelseeds)100mlcidervinegar100gcastersugar8tbspewersquoscurd(orgoatrsquoscurdorafreshyoungcheese)50gcheeserindtheolderanddrierthebetterfinelygrated(therindofunwaxedewersquosmilkcheeseisideal)

fineseasalt12borageflowersandafewwatercressleavestogarnish

FORTHEWATERCRESSDRESSING

70mlbuttermilk(ifunavailablestir1tspvinegarinto65mlmilkandleavefor5minutes)

35gmayonnaise(seePaprikaMayonnaiseonhereifyouwouldliketomakeitfromscratchomittingthepaprika)abunchofwatercressstalks

mustardpowderseasalt

Blanchtheflatbeansinfast-boilingsaltedwaterfor2minutesuntiljusttenderthendrainandleaveinicedwaterToastthesesameseedsinadryfryingpantilltheyturngoldenthentipthemoutofthepanontoaplatetopreventburningCutonecucumberinto5mmdiceandsprinkleliberallywithsaltLeavetodraininasievefor20ndash30minutestogivethefinishedpickleacrunchHeattheaniseedinadrypantillitspitsandcracklesTakethepanofftheheatcarefullyaddthevinegarandthenstirinthesugaruntildissolvedAllowthistocoolsomewhatwhileyourinsethesaltfromthecubedcucumberPutthecubesinabowlandcoverwiththewarmvinegarmixtureLeavetocoolThiswillkeepinthefridgefor5daysshouldyouchoosetomakeitinadvance

TomakethedressingputalltheingredientsinablenderkeepingbackafewofthewatercressstalksandpulseuntilthestalksareveryfinelychoppedThemixtureshouldbenothickerthansinglecreamandabeautifulpalegreencolourTasteandaddmoreofthestalksshouldyouwanttoincreasethatfreshgreenpeppertastefromthemustardoilwithinSeasonwithsaltandsetaside

Trimtheendsand2longsidesfromtheother2cucumbersandpeelintostripswithaY-shapedvegetablepeelerndashoronamandolineshouldyouwantsuper-tidyslicesLaytheseoneachservingplatecurlingthestripsoveranddresswithalittlefineseasaltSpoonscoopsofewersquoscurdandrolltheminthegratedcheeserindPlacetheseamongstthestripsofcucumberAddafewcubesofpickledcucumberandateaspoonoftheaniseedmarinadetoeachplateScattertheflatbeansovertheplatesandthenspoonoverthewatercressdressingFinishwiththedelicateblueborageflowersafewsmallwatercressleavesandthetoastedsesameseedsMarvellouscoloursandtidyonthetastebuds

CrabSaladwithNewPotatoesPickledCarrotand

SmokedPaprikaMayonnaise

WehaveoftenwonderedwhycrabmeatisnotmorepopularinBritainnowadaysMostcrabcaughtinBritishwatersissentstraighttoEuropewhereitisinhighdemandPerhapswesimplydonrsquotknowhowtocookthemlessstillhowtoeatthemAdmittedlypreparingawholecrabtakespracticeandcanbeamessyandtime-consumingaffairHoweverifyousurroundyourselfwithagroupoffriendsfurnishyourselveswithagoodloafofbreadandacoupleofbeveragespreferablyofthealcoholicvarietyyouwillseehowmuchfunitistopractiseThenativebrowncrabisdeliciousandthespidercrabrankshigherthanlobsterintasteformanyusincludedItistrulyadoredinSpaincommandingthehighestshellfishpricesIfyouneedmoregoodreasonstoeatBritishcrabmeatrememberthatitisrelativelyinexpensiveandhasbettersustainabilitycredentialsthanmostfishyoufindinthesupermarketThequantitiesgivenforthesmokedpaprikamayonnaisemakemorethan

youneedforthisrecipebutitisveryversatileServeitwithothersaladssmokedfishandasageneralsubstituteforboughtmayonnaiseWeguaranteethatittopsanythingyoucanbuyinashop

SERVES4200gnewpotatoesscrubbedcleanandcutinto5cmchunks1livebrowncrabor2livespidercrabs200gspringsaladleaves80mlTheEthicureanSaladDressing(seehere)afewpinchesofgroundmacebronzedillorfennelfronds100gPickledCarrots(seehere)afewedibleflowers(optional)

FORTHESMOKEDPAPRIKAMAYONNAISE

1largefree-rangeeggyolkfrac12tbsphoneyfrac12tbspDijonmustardfrac12tbspsmokedpaprika

1tspfineseasaltabout450mlrapeseedoil1tbspcidervinegar

FirstmakethemayonnaiseUsingastickblenderelectricwhiskorfreestandingelectricmixercombinetheeggyolkhoneymustardpaprikaandsaltWhiskonfullspeedfor30secondsoruntilsmoothWiththewhiskorblenderrunningonfullspeedveryslowlystartaddingtheoilAfterathirdoftheoilhasbeenmixedinaddthevinegarthencontinueinthesamefashionwiththerestoftheoilBesuretopourinaveryfinesteadystreamtobeginwithifyouaddtoomuchoilearlyonthemayonnaisewillsplitAstheoilisbeingincorporatedthemayonnaiseshouldstarttothickentoathickorangey-redemulsion(youmaynotneedalltheoil)Checkthetasteandseasonwithmoresaltandvinegarifnecessary

Cookthepotatoesinboilingsaltedwateruntiltenderthendrainandleavetocool

CookandpreparethecrabsasdescribedoverleafPlacesomeofthesaladleaveson4servingplateswiththepotatoesAddmoreleavesintertwiningthemwiththecrabmeatDresseachlayerasyougowithsaladdressingwhiletryingtomaintainheightinthedishtokeepitlookingattractiveTheclawsofthecrablookgreatwhenextractedwholesocombinethesewiththeflakedwhitecrabmeatforextravisualappealSpoononasmuchofthesmokedpaprikamayonnaiseasyouwishthenfinishwithafewpinchesofmacethebronzedillorfennelfrondspickledcarrotsandanyedibleflowersyoumayhaveServeimmediately

PREPARINGCRAB

HowtocookacrabThefirststepincookingacrabisknowinghowtokillit

humanelyOurheadchefMatthewwhoworkedformanyyearsasafishmongerisconvincedthattheonlywaytodothisistoputthecrabinthefreezerfor2hoursorsofirstTheeffectistonumbthecrabandensurethatthepainisminimisedwhenitiskilledWhenyoutakethecraboutofthefreezerturnitonitsbackliftthetailawayandlocatethedimplerightinitscentreTakeasharpskewerorothersharpthinimplementandpushitthroughthedimplethenasitmeetsthetopshellmoveitfromsidetosideDothesamebetweenthecrabrsquoseyespushingthe

skewerthroughandeasingitfromsidetoside

ThecrabshouldbecookedimmediatelyafterkillingItwillneed15minutesperkilograminalargepanofwell-saltedboiling

waterndashweallowatablespoonofsaltperlitreIfyouarecookingtwocrabscalculatethetimebasedontheirindividualratherthan

combinedweight

Howtoprepareacookedcrab1Turnthecrabonitsbackandtwistoffitslegsandclaws

2SeparatethetopshellfromthebottomshellbyplacingyourfingerunderthetopofitstailPullbothshellsapartusinga

heavyspoontocrackalongthelinethatisthereifitdoesnrsquotcomeawayeasily

awayeasily

3NowdonrsquotbeputoffbywhatyouseewhentheshellisfullyopenYouwillneedtodoabitoftidyingupbeforeyouareabletoappreciatethefullpotentialofthiscrustaceanStartbygettingridofthepointygreypiecesofmeatintheshell(calleddead

manrsquosfingers)andthebonybitsTheseareallinedibleYouwillneedtoremovethestomachsacjustbehindtheeyesandmouthtooThecreamybrownmeattoeithersideoftheheadisfor

somethetastiestandmostsupremelyediblesodonrsquotdiscardit

4UsingaskewerorsometweezersyounowneedtoremovethewhitemeatfromthemiddlepartofthebodyThisiswherethefirstglassofyourbeverageofchoicewillcomeinhandyastheprocessdoestakesometimeSopouryourselfadrinkandstartbycuttingthebodyintwosoitiseasiertoaccessthemeatinsideCarefullyremoveallthewhitemeatfromtheshellWhatmakesthistaskquitelaboriousisthatsomeofthedesirablewhite

meatisattachedtohardbonysectionsanditisdifficulttodifferentiatebetweenthetwoBepatient

5FinallycracktheclawsopenDIYtoolswillprobablybemoreeffectivethankitchenutensilsherendashasmallhammerworkswelloryoucouldtrythebackofaheavyknifeExtractasmuchwhitemeataspossiblewithyourtweezersorskeweranddonrsquotforgettoopenthewholeoftheclawThereismuchpreciousmeatinthelowerpartsoftheclawwhichisoftenforgottenaboutDothesamewiththelegsWithpracticethewholeprocesswilltake

youlessandlesstimeandweguaranteeitwillneverceasetobeenjoyable

SpringRadisheswithAnchovyCregravemeFraicircche

ThissimpleanchovydippairsbeautifullywithfreshradishesWeliketositaroundeatingthisinthegardenonasunnyspringeveningwhiledrinkingaglassofLimney(afantasticorganicwineproducedinSussex)andenjoyingthefirstrealwarmthoftheyearWhatrsquosgreataboutradishesisthatastheweatherbeginstowarmsodoestheirinherentfiery-pepperiness

SERVES4ndash62bunchesofradishes

FORTHEANCHOVYCREgraveMEFRAIcircCHE

alittlerapeseedorgroundnutoil1springonionfinelysliced

1springonionfinelysliced1headofwetgarlicfinelysliced(or2clovesofdriedgarlic)35gmarinatedwhiteanchovyfilletsfinelychopped75mlcregravemefraicirccheseasaltandblackpepper

HeatasplashofoilinasmallfryingpanaddthespringonionandgarlicandfryoveramediumheatuntilsoftAddtheanchoviesandcookforacouplemoreminutesTransferthemixturetoasmallbowlandleavetocoolStirinthecregravemefraicirccheandseasontotaste

ThoroughlycleantheradishesandtheirleaveskeepingtheleavesattachedHoldingtheleavesallowsyoutodiptheradishesintotheanchovysaucebeforebitingthemcleanofftheirgreeneryTherearefewsimplerormoredeliciouswaystoenjoythesepepperydelights

TroutwithKelpandShiitakeMushroomStockRiceFlatBeansandSeaKale

FindingthebestlocalingredientsisoneofthemostrewardingtasksforusatTheEthicureanSoweweredelightedwhenTessaTrickspartoftheEthicureanfamilydescribedhowcommittedherfatherwastofishinginthelocalareaHerfamilyrsquosfreezerwewereinformedwasalwaysuptomaximumcapacitywithrainboworbrowntroutcaughtinthenearbyChewValleyorBlagdonLakesItwasnosurprisetohearthattheyreferredtotroutaslsquotheTrickrsquosfamilycurrencyrsquoCharlieTricksstartedfishingattheageof10intheRiverYeoHenowpreferstofishatthebanksofthelakeashecanmovearoundandchoosehisspotBankfishingismoreofachallengebutthisaddstotheexcitementwhenyoudoeventuallysucceedincatchingsomethingworthcookingTheTrickseattroutatleastonceaweekandhavedevelopedan

impressivecatalogueofrecipesovertheyearsItwasourtasktoofferthemsomethingnewthatwouldfitwithourmenuThisreciperequirestwoJapanese-stylestockswhichneedpreparingadayinadvanceUnlikeEuropeanstockswhichoftenrequirelongcookingJapanesestocksarequicklukewarm-waterpreparationsthatuseumami-richingredientssuchasmushroomsdriedfishandseaweeds(seehereformoreaboutlsquoumamirsquo)ThesimplicityfreshnessandseasonalityofJapanesefoodarequalitiesthatweoftentrytoreplicateKelpisfrequentlyusedinJapanesestocksandinthisinstanceweusednativekelpdriedinaverylowovenYoushouldbeabletofindkelplabelledaskombuinorientalmarketsandhealthfoodstoresWhenCharlieandhisfamilytriedthisdishweworriedthatthedelicate

ingredientsaccompanyingthefishwouldnotstanduptoitbutthetablewasalivewithtalkofribonucleotidesinmushroomsguanylatecompoundsinumamiandseaweedstocksBytheendoftheirdinnertheTrickswerecommittedtoattemptingbriningathome

SERVES4300gbasmatirice40gseasalt1rainbowtroutweighing800gndash1kgfilletedwithpinbonesremoved6tbspmirin(ricewine)

6tbspmirin(ricewine)100gonionsfinelydiced50gceleriacfinelydiced50gwhitemushroomsfinelydiced2staranise1tspfennelseeds200gflatbeanstrimmedandcutinto2cmslices500gseakale(orkale)stalksremovedcutinto3cmstrips

FORTHEMUSHROOMSTOCK

50gdriedwholeshiitakemushrooms(theready-sliceddriedonesaremuchstrongersoreduceto10gifthatiswhatyouhave)FORTHEKELPSTOCK

20gdriedkelp(kombu)

Firstpreparethestocks(seeingredientsoverleaf)Forthemushroomstockwashthedriedshiitakethensoakin600mlcoldwaterovernightinaglassormetalbowlDonrsquotworryifyourkitchensmellsasifthereisagasleakthepungentshiitakewillbethecauseThefollowingdaystrainthestockthroughapieceofmuslinandchill

RinsethedriedkelpofanysandorresidueinabowlofcoldwaterBebriefsoasnottoloseitsconcentratedflavourPut12litreswaterinasaucepansetitoveralowheatandlookoutfortinybubblesappearingonthebaseofthepanTurnofftheheataddthekelpthencoverthepanandleaveforanhourswitchingtheheatonagainfor3minuteshalfwaythroughtomaintainthetemperatureIfyouhaveathermometerthetemperatureshouldholdcloseto60degCAnythinghigherwillreleasesulphurcompoundsiodineandaldehydesfromthekelpwhichwilltaintthesweetanddelicatestockStrainthestockthroughmuslinleavetocoolthenchill

Combinethe2stocksthenmeasureout750mlSetbothportionsofstockaside

WashthericeinasieveunderplentyofcoldrunningwaterTheaimistoremoveallthestarchsokeepgoinguntilthewaterrunscompletelyclearThismaytake10minutesormorebutgivesperfectriceeverytimeifthisstepisfollowedStirthericerubbingitgentlywithyourfingertipstoloosen

stepisfollowedStirthericerubbingitgentlywithyourfingertipstoloosenanyremainingstarchthenleavetodrainBasmatiwillabsorboneandaquartertimesitsweightinwaterduringcookingEvenifyoudonrsquotpossessaricesteamerbeautifulfluffyricecanbeachievedwithasaucepanandwell-fittinglidPutthedrainedriceintoafairlywidepanadd375mlwaterthencoverandsetaside

Tomakeabrineaddthe40gseasalttothe750mlmixedstockandstiruntilithasdissolvedCutthetroutfilletsinto4evenportionspersideAddthesetothebrineandrefrigerateforprecisely20minutesthendrainInthemeantimeheattheremainingstocktoasimmerandthentasteitItwillbeeversosubtleanddelicatebutyourtonguewillregistersomethingspecificsomethingcomplexyethardtopindownTheelusiveumamitastetheessenceofJapanesecookingispresentyetverydelicateAddthemirinandthenaddsaltapinchatatimeTasteagainandnoticehowthesweetnessandsalthaveaddeddepthSeasongraduallyuntilyouarepleasedwiththebalance

PutthepanofriceoverahighheatandwatchforittocometotheboilThemomentitdoesaddateaspoonofsaltandstirCoverthepantightlyandreducetheheattolowCookfor10minutesresistingthetemptationtopeerintothepanTheideaistotrytomimicaricesteamersothesteamneedstobetrappedbythelidAfter10minutesturntheheatoffbutleavethelidonforafurther10minutesContinuetoresistthetemptationtopeerin

Heattheovento120degCGasMarkfrac12BoilakettleandpourthewaterintoadeepbakingtraytoadepththatwillcoverthefishfilletscomfortablyAddtheonionsceleriacmushroomsstaranisefennelseedsandthedrainedfishfilletsPlaceintheovenandleavefor10minutes

Blanchtheflatbeansinapanofboilingsaltedwaterfor2minutesandtheseakaleinaseparatepanfor1minutethendrainRunaforkoverthericetoloosentheperfectlycookedfluffygrainsthendivideitbetween4servingbowlsandarrangethegreensarounditThefishwillbedelicatelypoachedbythispointPutthefishfilletsontopofthericeandpourtheclearstockaroundtheoutsideAfive-stagepalatepleaserforcertain

FRESHWATERFISH

Beingisland-dwellerswehavebeenexposedtomorewaterwaysthanmanyotherplacesaroundtheworldandwehavehadthetimeandopportunitytodevelopbetterfishingpracticesInrecentyearsfreshwaterfishhasbeenlabelledashavinganunsavourymuddyqualitytoitThisisnotatotallyunfoundedcommentespeciallyifthefishcomesfromhighsiltcontentwatersthatarerelativelystagnantGiventhestrainthatthefishingindustryisimposingonthemarineenvironmentthoughfreshwaterfishingisagoodsustainablealternativeMoreovernotallfreshwaterfishtastemuddyTroutinseasonforexampledoesnotIfcaughtshortlybeforeorafteritsbreedingperiodthefisharefullofmiltoreggswhichwillmakethemdeceptivelylargerinappearanceandcontributetothatlsquomuddyrsquoorlsquogrittyrsquotasteBewarned

Welikethefactthatthetroutwehaveonourmenucomesfromamanwhohasbeenfishinginthelocalareaforover50yearsWeareconvincedthathisexperienceandknowledgetricklesdowninsomeformorotherandleadstoabetterdishWhenweaskedhimhowfishinginthelocalareahadchangedovertheyearshebelievedthebiggestdifferencetobeintheflyvariationFortyyearsagolargenumbersofbigredsedgeflieswhichthetroutdevouredwerecommonlyseeninmidsummerNowadayssedgesaremuchsmallersothetroutismoredifficulttoenticeNodoubtthisaddstothechallengeandmakesitevenmoreworthwhiletogetacatch

GoatMeatballsMashLovageButterandMustardGreens

BeforewefoundtheWalledGardenweusuallyategoatrsquosmeatonlyatStPaulrsquosCarnivalinthecentreofBristolTherulewasthatwewouldlocatethestallswiththelongestqueuesanddevourasmanyCaribbeancurriesasnecessaryinourquesttofindthebestItwasatthiscalypso-infusedeventthatwehadourannualintakeofsucculentgoatrsquosmeatGoatrsquosmeatwascommonplaceintheUKuntilthemid-seventeenth

centuryNowmostofitisimportedfromeasternEuropeoffthebackofthedairyindustrythereandisrarelyfreerangeThemeatiscertainlyflavoursomebutittendstobetoughwhichmeansthatslowcookingisessentialFromanethicalpointofviewusingwhatwouldotherwisebeaby-productofthedairyindustrymakesperfectsenseManyfarmersseethemalekidsasadrainontheirresourcesOncetheyareborntheyservenopurposesotheyhavetobekilledThisseemsaterriblewasteconsideringtheenergydevotedtobreedingthemOurgoatrsquosmeatsupplierisCabritobasednearWellington(seealsoourCheeseboardhere)ItdoesnotbreedgoatsspecificallytosellonInsteaditbuysthebilliesfromsmall-scalefarmersraisesthemasfree-rangemeatandsellsthemtorestaurantsItrsquosworthaskingyourlocalbutcherwhethertheycantrackdownsomeBritishgoatrsquosmeatWehavenodoubtthatitwillbegintobecomemorepopularandmoreeasilyavailablesoonItwouldbefantasticifin50yearstimeafoodhistorianwroteofthereturnofgoatrsquosmeattotheBritishdietinthefirstpartofthetwenty-firstcenturyTheresponsewehavehadfromcustomerstothisdishhasbeen

overwhelmingthoughnotsurprisingthemeatissucculentandsweetitishighinproteinandironandcontainslessfatthanporkbeeforlambWefindthatmostpeopleareintriguedbythesemeatballsandwanttoknowmoreaboutgoatrsquosmeat

SERVES450gbread1frac12tspsalt1tsplovageseeds(ifnotavailableomitthesaltanduse1frac12tspcelerysalt)1tspcoarselygroundblackpepper

1tspcoarselygroundblackpepperfrac12tspdriedchilliflakes1tspcuminseeds550ggoatrsquosmeatfinelyminced1largeegglightlybeatenrapeseedoil50gonionfinelydiced25gcarrotslicedintohalfmoons25gceleriacfinelydiced250mlbrownchickenstock(seehere)200mlmedium-sweetciderabunchoflargemustardgreenscutintostrips2ndash3cmwidefrac12tspEnglishmustardValorPotatoMash(seehere)toserveseasalt

FORTHELOVAGEBUTTER

100mlbrownchickenstock(seehere)2tsplovageseeds(orahandfuloflovageleaves)75mlwhitewine3eggyolks185gcoldunsaltedbuttercutinto1cmcubesadashofvintagecidervinegarsuchasOstlerrsquos

Heattheovento180degCGasMark4BlitzthebreadsaltandspicesinablenderorfoodprocessortomakefinecrumbsPuttheminabowladdthemincedgoatrsquosmeatandeggandmixthoroughlyDividethemixtureinto12andshapeintoballsIthelpstorubalittlecookingoilontoyourhandstostopthemeatsticking

Heatalittlerapeseedoilinasmallsaucepanaddtheonioncarrotandceleriacthencoverandsweatoveralow-mediumheatuntilthevegetablesarebeginningtosoftenRemovefromtheheatandsetaside

PutthemeatballsinadeepbakingtininwhichtheyjustfitinasinglelayerPouroverthechickenstockandciderandaddthesoftenedvegetables

PouroverthechickenstockandciderandaddthesoftenedvegetablesCoverwithfoilplaceintheovenandroastfor30minutesTakeoffthefoilandroastfor10minuteslongeruntilthemeatballsarenutbrownincolourwheretheysitabovetheliquid

Meanwhilemakethelovagebutterputthestocklovageseedsandwineinasaucepanandboiluntilreducedbytwo-thirdsitsvolume(ifusingfreshlovageadditaftertheliquidhasreducedandleavetoinfusefor20minutes)StrainthemixturethroughafinesieveintoaheatproofbowlandallowtocoolslightlyWhiskintheeggyolksPlacethebowloverapanofsimmeringwatermakingsurethewaterdoesnottouchthebaseofthebowlWhiskuntilthemixturebecomesthickandairyAtthispointstartwhiskinginthebutteronecubeatatimewaitinguntilithascompletelymeltedbeforeaddingthenextpieceAfterafewpiecesofbutterhavebeenaddedyoucanstartadding2or3cubesatatimeThemorebutteryouincorporatethemoreyoucanaddeachtimeSeasontotastewithseasaltandadashofcidervinegarifyouwish

PlaceafryingpanoveramediumheatWhenitishotaddafilmofrapeseedoilfollowedbythemustardgreensmustardandsalttotasteCookstirringfrequentlyuntiltheleaveshavewilted

Servethemeatballsimmediatelywiththemashwiltedgreensandlovagebutter

daggerWhenweresearchedtheeatingofgoatmeatinthiscountrywefoundthatitwascommonplaceuntilabout1650LuciusColumellatheprominentRomanagriculturalwriterrecommendedthatevensickgoatswouldbefitforhumanconsumptioniftheyweresaltedanddrycuredIntheElizabethanerathephysicianThomasMoufetmaintainedthatoldgoatsshouldbeeatenbytenderisingthemBycontrastroastkidwasafavouriteseventeenth-centuryspringtimedishIntheeighteenthcenturytheWelshnaturalistThomasPennantreportedthatkidswerealsquocheapandplentifulprovisioninthewintermonthsrsquowhiledriedandsaltedgoathaunchesknownaslsquohungvenisonrsquowereeateninsteadofbaconInhisbookofBritishzoologyheclaimedlsquoThismakesanexcellentpastygoesunderthenameofrockvenisonandislittleinferiortothatofdeerThusnatureprovidesevenonthetopsofhighandcraggymountainsnotonlynecessariesbutdelicaciesfortheinhabitantsrsquo(BritishZoology1776)

OxTonguewithSwedeParsleyandCiderVinegar

TongueshouldberegardedunsqueamishlyasanexcellentcutofmeatsuitableforuseinadiverserangeofdishesInVictoriantimesitcertainlywouldhavemadeanappearanceonthecoldtableOnecombinationthatdatesbacktothefourteenthcenturydescribedbyDorothyHartleyaslsquoalwayspopularwiththemenfolkrsquowasarichthickandcreamymustardsaucepouredoverslicesofoxtongueThisrecipeandthefollowingonerequireyoutobrineyourowntongue

PatiencereallyisavirtueinthiscaseaweekofbriningfollowedbyacomparativelyshorttimeinthepotandyouareleftwithadeliciouspieceofmeatTongueisgreatinsaladsinasandwichorroastedwithvegetablesWecouldgoon

SERVES4WITHLEFTOVERS

1oxtongue200gswedepeeledandcutinto25cmcubes5staranise50mldoublecreamabunchofradishesfinelysliced50gflat-leafparsleyleavesrapeseedoilalittlecidervinegarseasaltsmokedseasalttoserve(optional)

FORTHEBRINE

200gcastersugar300gseasalt6juniperberries3cloves3staranise6blackpeppercorns6lovageseeds(orfennelseeds)2bayleaves

2bayleaves

FORCOOKINGTHETONGUE

100gonionfinelydiced50gcarrotfinelydiced50gceleriacorceleryfinelydiced10parsleystalks2bayleaves10peppercorns4staranise2cloves

Putalltheingredientsforthebrineinalargesaucepanadd2litresofwaterandbringtotheboilstirringoccasionallytodissolvethesugarandsaltRemovefromtheheatandleavetocoolthenplaceinthefridgeandchilluntilthetemperatureisbelow5degCPutthetongueinthebrineandweightitdownwithanon-reactiveitemndashsomethingwoodenplasticorceramicwilldothetrickMakesurethetongueiscompletelysubmergedCoverandleaveinthefridgeforaweek

Drainandrinsethetonguethenputitinalargesaucepanwith2litresofwaterandalltheingredientslistedforcookingthetongueBringtoasimmercoverandcookverygentlyfor4hourscheckingthewaterlevelhourlyandtoppingitupasnecessaryRemovethetonguefromitscookingliquorandleaveuntilcoolenoughtohandlethenpeelitItisimportanttopeelitwhileitisstillwarmotherwisethefatssolidifymakingthistaskmuchmoredifficult

TocooktheswedeplacethestaraniseinasaucepanaquarterfullofwaterandsetasteamerbasketoverthetopBringtoasimmerPlacetheswedeinthebasketcoverandsteamfor35ndash40minutesuntiltenderTransfertheswedetoablenderorfoodprocessoraddthecreamandblitzuntilcompletelysmoothSeasonwithsaltandleavetocool

Thinlysliceabout200gofthetongueSpoontheswedepureacuteeonto4servingplatesandtopwiththetongueslicedradishesandparsleyLightlydrizzlealittlerapeseedoilovertheparsleyandfinallyaddafewsplashesofcidervinegarandasprinklingofsmokedsaltifyouhaveit

cidervinegarandasprinklingofsmokedsaltifyouhaveit

daggerInEnglandtheuseofoxencastratedmalesbothfordraftpullingcartsandploughingandforbeefwasoncegeneralpracticeFourpairsofoxenwouldpullaplougheachanimalagedwithayearbetweenStaggeringthepairsmeantthateachyeartwowouldbefattenedforbeefandsoldthuspayingtheirwayTheEnclosuresActsofthelateeighteenthandearlynineteenthcenturieswhichreducedfieldsizeshastenedtheendoftheoxrsquosuseastheteamsofeightneededenoughspacetoturnattheendofeachfurrowBythebeginningofthetwentiethcenturythemorehigh-maintenancehorsewasfavouredforitsspeedandmanoeuvrabilityandeventuallyreplacedthedependableoxTodaywearenoteatingthedraftcattlethatourancestorswouldhaveknownbutinfactbeefcattleandinsomecasescalves

OxTonguewithCauliflowerGilliflowerandHazelnuts

InherbookFoodandDrinkinBritainCAnneWilsonreferstothepracticeofeatingtonguewithgilliflowersmorecommonlyknownascarnationsTheyhaveaflavourthatverycloselyresemblescloveThispairinghasbeenallbutforgottenaboutApparentlyifawitchtriestokillyouyoushouldhandheraredcarnationasshewillhavetocountthepetalsgivingyouenoughtimetofinishyouroxtongueandgilliflowerdinnerandescapeanynastyspells

SERVES41cauliflowerdividedintoflorets2tbspplainflourfrac14tspgroundcloves2eggslightlybeatenwithapinchofsalt30gbutter200goxtonguebrinedandcookedasintherecipeonherethencutinto12slices50ghazelnutstoastedinadryfryingpanandthendustedwithfrac14tsp

groundcinnamon1tablespoonroastedcobnutoil(orwalnutoil)

FORTHEGILLIFLOWERSYRUP

abunchoforganiccarnations(besuretouseonesthathavenrsquotbeensprayed)100mlcidervinegar100gicingsugarplus2tbsp

YouwillneedtopreparethegilliflowersyrupafewdaysinadvanceCutthepetalsfrom3carnationsandputtheminabowlCoverwiththecidervinegarandthenstirinthe100gicingsugarWeightdownwithaplateandsetasidefor3daysatroomtemperature

Onthedayyouwanttoservethesaladtrimthepetalsfrom2flowerheadsrinsethemandspindryinasaladspinnerDrythepetalsonateatoweltocatchthelastdropsofmoisturepreventinganyflavourlossStrainthegilliflowersyrupandtasteitTherewillbenotesofcloveandpepperthoughitmayneedsweeteningalittlefurtherwithicingsugartomellowthevinegarSet2tablespoonsofthesyrupasideaddingthe2tablespoonsoficingsugartoitReservethistocaramelisetheoxtonguebeforeserving

Cookthecauliflowerfloretsinlightlysimmeringsaltedwaterforabout10minutesuntilaldenteDraincoolinice-coldwateranddrainagainverythoroughlyMixtheflourwiththegroundclovesDustthecauliflowerfloretsinthismixtureandthendipthemintothebeateneggsHeatthebutterinafryingpanandfrythecauliflowerinitinsmallbatchestillgolden

Afterfryingthecauliflowercleanoutthepanwithkitchenpaperandplaceitoveramedium-highheatBrushtheoxtonguesliceswiththecaramelisingsyrupandplaceinthehotpanCookwithoutmovingthemuntilyoucanseethembrowningattheedgesthenturnandcolourtheothersidetoo

Assemblethedishbyarrangingthecaulifloweroxtongueandpetalson4servingplatesDropthecinnamon-dustedhazelnutsontopanddresswiththegilliflowersyrupandroastedcobnutoil

SaltMarshLambwithTidalGreens

InEnglandthebenefitsofsalt-marshgrazinghavebeenknownsincethethirteenthcenturyyetformanyyearsthevastmajorityofthemeathasbeenexportedtoFrancewhereitisrecognisedasadelicacyInEnglishFood(MichaelJoseph1974)JaneGrigsonwrotelsquoPeoplelivingaroundRomneyMarshhelliphavetolookacrossatflocksofsheepfeedingonthesaltmarshesandknowthatthemeatwillbypasstheirbutchersandbeservedtotouristsinNormandyBrittanyandParisasagneaupreacute-saleacutespecialiteacutedelamaisonpricetomatchrsquoHoweversaltmarshlambisonceagainbecomingavailablehereFarmerswithcoastalpasturebringtheirflocktotheseamarshesinspringwhentheweatherimprovessothesheepcangrazeclosetothewaterrsquosedgefeedingonseavegetationsuchassamphiresorrelsealavenderandthriftWetookaforagingcoursethatambledthroughthesaltmarshonthe

SevernwherethelambwebuyfortherestaurantgrazeWelearnedaboutedibleseagrassesseakaleandseabeetandrealisedthatwehadsomenewgreenstoservealongsidethisprimelambshoulderWealsoserveitwithfathenacommonplantoftenconsideredtobeaweedwhichgrowsingardensroadsidevergesandhedgerows

SERVES6ndash81tinofanchoviesdrained1shoulderofsaltmarshlambbonedweighingabout2kgrapeseedoil4onionscutintoquarters4largecarrotspeeledbutleftwhole4spearsofrosemaryabunchofparsley1headofgarliccutinhalfthroughitsequator200mldryvermouth1kgnewpotatoesaknobofbutterasmallbunchofmintchopped

FORTHESALTMARSHGREENS

abunchofseaarrowgrassorPickledSamphire(seehere)abunchofseaarrowgrassabunchofseabeet(canbereplacedwithspinachorkale)abunchofseakale(canbereplacedwithpurplesproutingbroccoli)abunchoffathen(canbereplacedwithspinach)aknobofbutter

Heattheovento160degCGasMark3ThefirsttaskistogettheanchoviesintothemeatspikethelambinseveralplaceswithasmallknifeworkingitunderthetoplayerofthefleshlaterallyratherthandownwardsPushtheanchovyfilletsintotheincisionsTheywilldissolveduringthelongcookingprocessseasoningthemeatandnegatingtheneedtosaltthejointfurtherEvenifyouarenotkeenontheserichsaltyandumamifishfilletsweurgeyounottoomitthemThefinalflavourwillnotbeoffishbutofseasonedlamb

Heatathinfilmofrapeseedoilinalargeheavy-basedfryingpanaddthelambshoulderandsearoverahighheatuntilbrownedalloverPuttheonionscarrotsrosemaryparsleyandgarlicinaroastingtinandplacethelambontopPourinthevermouthcoverwithfoilandplaceintheovenRoastfor3frac12ndash4hoursuntilyouhaveatenderroastofthehighestorderRemovefromtheovenandleavetorestforatleast20minutes

ScrubthepotatoesandcutthemsotheyareallroughlythesamesizeasthesmallestonesCookinboilingsaltedwateruntiltenderthendrainwellandtosswithaknobofbutterandthemint

Washthegreensandthenblanchthemwholeinfast-boilingwell-saltedwaterfor1minuteDrainwellandtosswithaknobofbutterServethelambwiththegreensandpotatoes

daggerAttherestaurantweusuallysourceabreedcalledSuffolkCrossCharolloisThebreedwasfirstimportedfromFrancein1976originallyfromthetownofCharollesintheSaocircneLoireregionofFrancewhereitgrazesalongsidethefamousCharollaisCattleOurbutcherbuysourlambfromfarmsbasedonthebanksoftheRiverSevernnearFramptononSevernTheyareslaughteredatStonehouseGloucestershireandsohave

lessthan5foodmilesattributabletothemThewildseaplantsonwhichourlambfeedarehighinsaltlevelsandiodinemakingthemusclecellsinthefleshretainmoremoistureThemeatisconsequentlysweeterjuicierandnotaspinkasmountainlamb

SteamedRabbitPudding

RabbithashistoricallybeenregardedaspoormanrsquosgameItwasoneoftheonlywildanimalsthatcommonerswereallowedtohunttherestbeingreservedforthecrownorthegentryTodaypeoplearescepticalaboutcookingwithrabbitbutitisundoubtedlygrowinginpopularityAtTheEthicureanwecookonlywildrabbitsfavouringtheirfirmtextureandgameyflavourMuchoftherabbitavailableinshopsisfarmedPleaseavoidbuyingthisasittendstobeblandandaltogetheruninterestingInsteadaskyourbutchertoorderyouayoungwildrabbitItisagooddealeasiertoidentifytheageofarabbitthathasthepelt(fur)

stillattachedAnoldtoughrabbitwillhaveascruffypatchycoatwornclawstoughearsandbrokenanddamagedteethThereislittletodowiththeseinthekitchenbutslowroastthemAyoungrabbitshouldhaveaglossyhealthycoatgoodstrongclawsandpliableearsInthisrecipeweemployagreatBritishtraditionthesteamedsuet

puddingBeforesealingtherabbitinthepastrywepressure-cookitwholeinMorganSweetciderfromthelowerorchardWehaveseentheoddappledropandlandonarabbitrsquosheadTheironyisnotlostonus

SERVES48springonionsouterlayerandrootsremoved1rabbitskinnedkidneysremoved1bottle(330ml)PerryrsquosMorganSweetciderorothergoodsweetcider5sprigsofthyme5blackpeppercornsseasalt

FORTHESUETPASTRY

300gself-raisingflourapinchofsalt150gcoarselygratedbeefsuetbutterforgreasing

PlaceagriddleoverahighheatandleaveforafewminutestogetveryhotAddthespringonionsandcookturningoccasionallyuntiltheyarecharred

AddthespringonionsandcookturningoccasionallyuntiltheyarecharredandtenderPlacetheminapressurecookerwiththewholerabbitciderthymeandpeppercornsAttachthelidandplaceonthehighestheatuntilitisatfullpressurethenturntheheatdownandcookfor1frac12hoursRemovefromtheheatandleavetocooltoroomtemperaturebeforeremovingthelid(Ifyoudonrsquothaveapressurecookercooktherabbitinacoveredpanoveralowheatfor3hourscheckingtheliquidleveleveryhourorsoandaddingmoreciderifnecessary)TaketherabbitoutofthecookerreservingtheliquidThoroughlyflakeallthemeatfromthebonesPlacethemeatinasaucepanstrainthecookingliquidthroughwetmuslinorafinesieveandcookoveramedium-highheatuntiltheliquidhasalmostcompletelyevaporatedSeasonwithsalttotaste

TomakethepastrysifttheflourintoabowladdthesaltandsuetandmixwellwithaknifeSlowlyadd200mlwaterstirringitintomakeadoughTurnoutontoaflouredsurfaceandkneadlightlyforacoupleofminutesthenrolloutto5mmthickGreasea12litrepuddingbasinwellwithbutterthenlineitwiththesuetpastryreservingaboutaquarterforthelidFillthebasinwiththerabbitRolloutthereservedpastrytofitthetopofthebasinthenputitoverthefillingandpinchtheedgestogetherTrimoffanyexcesspastry

Takeapieceoffoillargeenoughtocoverthetopofthebasingenerouslyandfolda2ndash3cmpleatinthecentretoallowroomforexpansionCoverthebasinwiththefoiltuckingitundertherimtosealPlaceonawirestandinsidethepressurecookerandaddacoupleofinchesofwatertothepanAttachthelidtothepressurecookerandplaceoverahighheattobringittofullpressureReducetheheatandcookonfullpressurefor1frac14hours(Alternativelyyoucouldsteamtherabbitinaconventionalsteamerfor2frac12hours)RemovefromtheheatandallowtocoolalittlethenturnthepuddingoutontoalargeservingplateDiverightin

PorkJuniperandBlackIPAPie

InBritaintherelationshipsbetweenapplesbeerporkandpiesareasoldasthehillsThereismuchtocelebrateonourlittleislandandtheporkpieshouldbeworshippedattheveryleastonceaweekAlittlesmudgeof

shouldbeworshippedattheveryleastonceaweekAlittlesmudgeofmustardasliceofpiebalancedonthekneewithagoodpausebetweeneachbiteThisisapiethatmustbeeatenoutdoorsandhelpedonitswaywithagoodbestbitterordryciderWemustconfessthattheeccentricitiesofthisrecipeevolvedfromthe

greatFrenchtraditionofmakingcoarseporkterrinesWelovejuniperndashitsheadyresinousfragranceisthedelightofgindrinkersanditistrulyathomewithporkTheFrenchndashandthelategreatKeithFloydndashwouldtumbleinaclaretsavingthelastthirdofthebottleasacookrsquosperkandanothertoenjoyduringbakingWeforgowinehereforanIndiaPaleAle(IPA)andablackIPAatthatThisisnrsquotmerelyforpatrioticeffectbutbecauseofthewonderfullyhoppednatureofanIPAandtheroastedmaltybasethatcomesfromtheinclusionofdarkmaltMoorBeerbasedinPitneyinSomersetmakesaverygoodblackIPAcalledIllusionJustyntheheadbrewerrefusestoaddfinningstoclearhisbeersayinglsquoWhywouldIwanttheswimbladdersoffishinmypintpurelyforclarityrsquoHehasapointIfyoucannotfindablackIPAagoodregularIPAwilldoverywellindeedEvenifyouareunfamiliarwiththenamehot-watercrustpastryyouwill

undoubtedlyhaveeatenitifyouhaveeverindulgedinagoodporkpieItiscommonlyusedformakinghand-raisedpiesandisanimportantpartofMatthewandIainrsquosinfamouslsquopieoffsrsquoThetwoarerarelycompetitivebutwhenitcomestohand-raisingporkpies(ratherthantakingtheeasieroptionofmakingtheminamouldasbelow)wewilloftenhearthewordslsquoItrsquosonrsquofromthekitchenndashthendeadlysilenceensueswhilethetwometiculouslygoaboutshapingtheirpiesOncethepiesareintheoventhebanterandteasingbeginlsquoWaaahyourpiersquosdefinitelygoingtocrackrsquolsquoWhateverYoursissowonkyitrsquosnotevengonnastanduprightrsquoItisapastrythatcontradictstraditionalmethodsofpastrymakingneedingtobeusedwarmsoitcanbeshapedDonotletthisintimidateyoundashthisisaveryeasyandfunpastrytoworkwith

SERVES8

FORTHEFILLING

13kgporkbellymincedonacoarsesetting(askyourbutcherforthebones)200gpigrsquoslivercutinto1cmcubes200gmincedbeef10smokedstreakybaconrasherscutinto2cmpieces

10smokedstreakybaconrasherscutinto2cmpieces2garlicclovesfinelysliced15blackpeppercornsplus1tspfreshlygroundblackpepper17juniperberrieslightlycrushedfrac12tspgroundmace250mlblackIPA(orregularIPA)75mlSomersetciderbrandy1tbspfineseasalt

FORTHEJELLY

thebonesfromtheporkbelly3ndash4pigrsquostrotters1largecarrotfinelysliced1largeonionfinelysliced1bayleaf5sprigsofthyme12blackpeppercorns2ndash3lovageleaves(orceleryleaves)seasalt

FORTHEHOT-WATERCRUSTPASTRY

450gstrongwhiteflourfrac12tspsalt1tbspicingsugar1egg80glarddiced80gbutterdiced1egglightlybeatentoglaze

FirstmakethejellyPutalltheingredientsexceptthelovageandsaltinapanadd15litresofwaterandbringtotheboilReducetheheattoasimmerandcookuncoveredfor2hoursmeticulouslyskimmingoffanyscumthatrisestothesurfaceStrainthroughafinesieveintoacleanpanandbringtotheboilBoiluntilreducedtoaquarterofitsvolumethenremove

fromtheheatNowitrsquostimetotestwhetherithasreducedtothecorrectconsistencyPutatablespoonoftheliquidonaplateandleaveitinthefridgefor20minutesPushyourfingerthroughthemiddleoftheliquidIftheliquidbeginstocrinklethenitrsquosreadyIfnotcontinuetoreduceitoverahighheatforafewmoreminutesthentestagainWhenthecorrectconsistencyisachievedbringtheliquidtotheboiladdthelovageleavesandturnofftheheatLeavethelovagetoinfusefor20minutesthenremoveanddiscardTasteoncemoreandseasonwithseasaltaccordingly

YoucouldmakethestockforthejellyinapressurecookerFollowtheinstructionsabovebutcookatfullpressurefor80ndash90minutesRemovefromtheheatandallowtocooltoroomtemperaturebeforeremovingthelidThenstrainreduceandtestasabove

PutalltheingredientsforthefillinginabowlandmixwithyourhandsuntilthoroughlycombinedSetasidewhileyoumakethepastry

Heattheovento180degCGasMark4TomakethepastrymixthefloursaltandicingsugartogetherinalargebowlMakeawellinthecentreandaddtheeggCovertheeggwiththeflourPutthelardandbutterinasaucepanwith200mlwaterGraduallybringthewatertoasimmerandleaveuntilthefatshavemeltedSlowlypourthewaterandfatintotheflourCuttogetherwithaknifeuntiladoughhasstartedtoformthenturnoutontoaflouredsurfaceandkneadlightlyuntilglossyandsmoothndashacoupleofminutesmaximumUseimmediately

SetasideathirdofthepastryforthelidRollouttherestonalightlyflouredsurfaceto5mmthickandusetolinea23cmpiemouldorspringformcaketinTrimtheexcesspastryhangingovertheedgesandputtoonesideSpooninthefillingpressingitdowngentlysoitisevenlydistributedRolloutthereservedpastry3mmthicktomakealidPutitontopofthepieandpinchittothepastryedgesotherearenogapsYoucangentlyshapetherimintoaprettydesignshouldyousowishMakeasmallholeinthecentreforventing

Rolloutthepastrytrimmingsto3ndash5mmthickCutastrip5cmwideandasimilarlengthtothepieCutdiagonallyintostripsallthewaydowntheentirelengthandthenagaintheotherwaysowhatyouareleftwithare

diamondsinthecentreandhalfdiamondsontheedge(seethephotoopposite)

BrushthepiewiththebeateneggtoglazethenlaytheextrapastryinastripacrossthetopofthepieinadesignofyourchoiceleavingtheventholeclearLightlyglazetheextrapastrypieceswitheggthenplacethepieintheovenandbakefor20minutesTurntheovendownto160degCGasMark3andbakeforafurther45ndash60minutesuntilthejuicesrunclear(ifyouhaveaprobethermometertheinternaltemperatureofthepieshouldbe86degC)Ifthepieisbrowningtooquicklywhichcanoftenhappencoverittightlywithfoil

AllowthepietocooltoroomtemperaturethencarefullyremoveitfromthemouldIfthejellyhassetwarmitslightlysoitisjustliquidSlowlypourthejellyinthroughthesteamventuntilthepieisfullPlaceinthefridgefor2ndash4hourstosetthejelly

daggerWedoenjoyasplashofSomersetCiderBrandyinourpieJulianTemperleyhasmadeasuccessofdistillingcideralongwiththehelpofhistwocontinuousstillsJosephineandFifiThisisnopoorrelationofCognacbutaformidablespiritthathasafloralspiceandadepththathasbeenbroughttolifeontheSomersetlevelsJulianrsquosexperimentswithblendsbarrelsandageinghavefurnishedourrestaurantwithenoughmarvellousdrinkstokeepanySomersetciderfarmerrosie-cheeked

PearlBarleywithOldDemdikeandStGeorgersquosMushroom

Weloveumami-richfoodsandmushroomsandcheesearefantasticsourcesofitUmamiorsavouryflavourisnowconsideredtobethefifthbasictastendashtheothersbeingsweetsoursaltyandbitterTomatoescheesessuchasParmesanandCheddarandmushroomsarepackedfullofitThisdishisverysimilartotheItalianorzottoOrzottoislikerisottoonly

pearlbarleyisusedeasilymatchingthequalityofCarnaroliorVialoneNanoriceWhenrisottosandorzottosarewellexecutedtheyareadelightndashheartysoothingandoftennostalgicndashyettheycanbeimproveduponfurtherwiththeuseoftexturalcontrastsandburstsofflavouraswedointhisrecipeHereintenselyflavouredmushroomjelliesaddaburstofrichumamiandatexturalcontrastStGeorgersquosmushroomsgivehintsofwatermelonandcucumberwhileaewersquoscheesecrispaddsafineaestheticfinishtoanalreadystunningdish

SERVES4150goldDemdikecheesegrated300gpearlbarley2tbsprapeseedoil200gonionsfinelydiced150gcarrotsfinelydiced200gceleriacfinelydiced250mlredwine350mlmushroomstock(seehere)10ndash15smallStGeorgersquosmushroomsquartered(ifunavailableuseoystermushrooms)

1tbspchoppedparsleyMushroomJelly(seehere)madewithsmokedsaltifpossibleseasalt

Tomaketheewersquoscheesecrispsarrange50gofthegratedcheeseinanovalshapeonapieceofbakingparchmentPlaceanotherpieceofparchmentontopandrollitoutintoathinlayerTurnoutintoafryingpanandplaceona

topandrollitoutintoathinlayerTurnoutintoafryingpanandplaceonamedium-lowheatuntilthecheesehasmeltedandthebottomhasbeguntobrownlightlyPutthepanunderahotgrillandleaveuntilthecheeseisanevengolden-browncolouralloverLeavetocoolthenbreakinto4piecesandsetaside

PlacethepearlbarleyinasaucepancoverwithcoldwaterandbringtotheboilDrainwellthenrepeatDrainandsetasideHeathalftherapeseedoilinasaucepanaddtheonionscarrotsandceleriacandcookoveramediumheatuntiltheybegintosoftenDonotallowthemtocolourStirinthepearlbarleyfollowedbytheredwineandcookuntilthewinehasbeencompletelyabsorbedbythebarleyAddthemushroomstockaladlefulatatimewaitingforittobefullyabsorbedbeforeaddingthenextContinuefor10ndash15minutesuntilthepearlbarleyiscookedbutstillhasaslightresistancetothebite

MeanwhileheattheremainingrapeseedoilinafryingpanaddthemushroomsandfryoverahighheatuntiltenderandgoldenbrownAddthemtothepearlbarleyreservingafewforgarnishingStirintheremaininggratedcheeseandtheparsleyandseasonwithsaltServegarnishedwiththeremainingfriedmushroomsthemushroomjelliesandthecheesecrisps

RhubarbandCustard

MostpeoplecredittheeccentricVictorianswithplacingjelliesfirmlyontheBritishgastronomymapAfterallitwastheVictorianaristocracywhoexcelledatusingdecorativejelliesatbanquetstodisplaytheirpowerandsocialstandingInfactjellieshadbeenaroundforcenturiespreviouslyandsavouryjellieswerecommonatmedievalfeastsWecreatedthisdessertinhonourofRobertMayaseventeenth-century

cookwhointroducedfruitjelliestotheEnglishtableandmetwithasurprisingamountofresistanceThissuperblyflavouredjellyconsistsoftwoingredientsthatwethinkweremeanttobetogetherndashrhubarbandcustardYoudonrsquotnecessarilyhavetolayerthemexactlyasdescribedbelowYoucouldmakethinnerlayersoraddaborderofjellyetcGetcreativeJustbesuretoseteachlayerfullybeforeaddingmore

SERVES6

FORTHERHUBARBJELLY

15kgrhubarbcutinto2cmpieces150gcastersugar13ggelatine

FORTHECUSTARD

600mldoublecream1vanillapod8eggyolks200gcastersugar11ggelatine

FORTHERHUBARBCOMPOTE(OPTIONAL)

2largerhubarbstalkscutinto1ndash2cmpiecesafewtbspcastersugartotaste

Forthejellyput650mlwaterinapanandbringtotheboilPlaceasteamerbasketoverthetoplargeenoughtoholdtherhubarbAddtherhubarbtothebasketcoverwithatight-fittinglidandsteamoveralowheatfor1hourIftoomuchsteamisescapingputalayeroffoiloverthepanandputthelidon

toomuchsteamisescapingputalayeroffoiloverthepanandputthelidontopofthefoil

WhiletherhubarbissteamingmakethecustardPourthecreamintoaheavy-basedsaucepanSlitthevanillapodopenlengthwiseandscrapeouttheseedsAddtheseedsandpodtothecreamandbringtojustbelowboilingpointthenremovefromtheheatandcoolslightlyWhisktheeggyolksandsugartogetherinalargebowluntiltheyolksbecomepaleandthesugarisfullyincorporatedPourthecreamthroughafinesieveontotheeggyolkswhiskuntilsmoothandthentransfertoacleansaucepanPutthegelatinesheetsintoabowlofice-coldwaterandleavetosoakfor10minutes

HeatthecustardmixturegentlystirringconstantlyAfterafewminutesitwillbegintothickenItisvitaltostirallpartsthoroughlytopreventanyofthemixtureovercooking(Ifyouhaveadigitalthermometerthenthisisagoodtimetouseitthecustardshouldbenomorethan85degCotherwiseitwillscramble)WhenithasthickenedenoughtocoatthebackofthespoonwithoutrunningoffremovefromtheheatandplacethepanbrieflyinabowlofcoldwatertostopitcookingfurtherStrainthecustardthroughasieveintoabowlSqueezeoutanyexcessliquidfromthegelatineandaddthegelatinetothecustardstirringuntilcompletelydissolvedCoolthecustardquicklybyplacingthebowlinacoupleofinchesofcoldwaterinthesinkthenchillinthefridge

CUSTARD

InabusykitchenmakingcustardfromscratchisabitofatreatAsimplejobitisachancetostandstillandfocusononetaskit

forcesyoutoslowdownphysicallyandmentallySlowlywatchinghowtheviscosityofthecustardchangeswhilestirringconstantlyisquiteagroundingexerciseItisamomentwhenyoutakeinthesoundsandsmellsaroundyouandregainsome

clarityamidstalltheactivity

clarityamidstalltheactivity

Whentherhubarbhassteamedfor1hourremovefromtheheatanddiscardtherhubarbAllthejuiceandflavourfromtherhubarbwillbeinthewaterinthepanunderneathsokeepthisMeasureout450mloftherhubarb-infusedwaterintoacleansaucepanaddthesugarandheatgentlystirringuntildissolvedSoftenthegelatineinice-coldwaterasforthecustardSqueezeoutanyexcesswaterandaddthegelatinetothepanofftheheatStiruntilcompletelydissolvedthensetaside

Tosetthejellyyouwillneeda1-litreterrinejellymouldorbowlIfusingaterrineverylightlyoiltheinsideusingapastrybrushthenlinewithalayerofclingfilmOncetheterrineislinedwithclingfilmithelpstofilltheterrinewithwaterwhichenablesyoutoremoveanyremainingairbubblesfromtheedgesoftheterrineDiscardthewaterandgentlypatdrywithkitchenrollIgnorethisprocessifusingajellymouldorbowl

Pouralayerofjellyintoyourchosenreceptacletillabout1ndash2cmdeepPlaceinthefridgefor1frac12hoursoruntilsetfirmPuthalfthecustardinapanplaceoverthelowestpossibleheatandstircontinuouslyuntilfluidPourthecustardintothemouldoverabackofaspoonheldjustabovetherhubarbjellyThisslowsitsfallmakingitlesslikelytobreakthejellyapartPourthecustardoverthefirstlayerofrhubarbjellyandreturntothefridgeLeavefor2hoursoruntilcompletelyfirm

TakeouttheremainingjellyandplaceinasaucepanoveralowheatuntilfluidPouroverthesetlayerofcustard(usingaspoonasyoudidbefore)andreturntothefridgeuntilcompletelysetThenheattheremainingcustarduntilfluidandpouritintothemouldoverthebackofaspoonasbeforeLeaveinthefridgepreferablyovernightuntilset

Tomakethecompoteputtherhubarbinasaucepanjustbigenoughtoholditinasinglelayerandadd2tablespoonsofwaterCookcoveredoveralow-mediumheatuntiltherhubarbbeginstobreakdownStirinsugartotasteandcontinuetocookuntilthecompoteistheconsistencyofrunnyjam

tasteandcontinuetocookuntilthecompoteistheconsistencyofrunnyjamRemovefromtheheatandleavetocool

Turnthejellyoutofthemouldandservewiththecompoteifliked

daggerTheVictorianerawasthehey-dayofjellymakingthoughjellieshadbeenaroundforcenturiesInTudorandStuarttimesitwascommonforthegentrytobuildsummerhousesintheirgardensjustsothattheirbanquetingguestshadsomewherequietwheretheycouldenjoythefinaljellycourseAssugarbecamemorewidelyavailabledessert-makersmadethemostofitBytheseventeenthcenturysweetjellieswerethenormseasonedwithrosewaterandspicesOthercreationsincludedtransparentpuddingsinwhichlayersofslicedalmondsraisinscitronandcandiedlemonwerevisiblethroughthejelly

ChocolateandSaltCaramelBrownieswithCherryandElderflowerSauce

TherearecountlessrecipesforchocolatebrowniesandinitiallywethoughtthatperhapsthereweretoomanyalreadyHowevergiventhatourlocalareahassuchanillustrioushistoryinchocolateproductionwefeltitwasonlyfairtocomeupwithourownchocolaterecipeWehavetheindustriousVictorianstothankformakingchocolateavailabletothewiderpublicItwasinfactafactoryinBristolownedbyJSFryampSonsthatproducedthefirstchocolatebarin1847ThecompanywentontoproducesomeofourchildhoodfavouritessuchasFryrsquosChocolateCreamandTurkishDelightWeliketouseOriginalBeanschocolatebecauseofitsqualityandthe

companyrsquosethicswhichcloselymatchourownCo-foundedbytheenvironmentalistentrepreneurPhilippKauffmanOriginalBeansisrenownedforitszerocarbonpoliciesandpassionforsustainablefarmingTheadditionofsaltcaramelisprimarilytoenhancethesweetnessofthe

browniealthoughwehavetoadmitthatitdoesaddalottotheoverallpresentationtoo

SERVES4WITHPLENTYOFBROWNIESLEFTFORTOMORROW

250gdarkchocolateatleast72percentcocoasolids170gunsaltedbutter300gcastersugar3largeeggslightlybeaten1eggyolk80mlrapeseedoil60gplainflourfrac12tspbakingpowderfrac12tspsalt70gorganiccocoapowder50gSaltCaramel(seehere)plusextratoserve

FORTHECHERRYANDELDERFLOWERSAUCE

100gfrozensourcherries

100gfrozensourcherries50gElderflowerSyrup(seehere)orelderflowercordial

Heattheovento180degCGasMark4Lightlygreasea23cmspringformcaketin

Melt200gofthechocolateinabowlplacedoverapanoflightlysimmeringwatermakingsurethewaterdoesnottouchthebaseofthebowlRemovefromtheheat

UsinganelectricwhiskorafreestandingmixerfittedwiththepaddleattachmentbeatthebutterandsugartogetheruntilpaleandlightChangethemixerattachmenttoawhiskorcontinueusingtheelectricwhiskSlowlyaddtheeggsandtheextrayolknomorethanatablespoonatatimewhiskingthoroughlybetweeneachadditionSlowlyaddtherapeseedoilandwhiskthemixtureforafurther5minutesuntilithasaglossysilkyappearance

SiftintheflourbakingpowdersaltandcocoapowderandwhiskbrieflyuntilincorporatedUsingametalspoonfoldinthemeltedchocolatePourthemixtureintothecaketinandsmooththetopRoughlychoptheremainingchocolateandlightlypushthepiecesintothesurfaceofthecakemixRepeattheprocesswiththesaltcaramelpiecesPlaceinthecentreofovenandbakefor25minutesoruntilaknifeinsertedinthecentrecomesawaywithalittlecakemixtureattacheditshouldnotlookraw

Ifitdoesreturntotheoventestingevery3minutesRemovefromtheovenandleavetocoolonawirerack

AllowtocooltoroomtemperatureonawiretrayMeanwhileputthecherriesandelderflowersyrupinasmallsaucepanandcookoveramediumheatforabout10minutesuntilsyrupyLeavetocoolalittlebeforeserving

ThebrowniescanbeservedhotorcoldTurnoutandslicethenservewithshardsofsaltcaramelbrokenovereachportionandthewarmsyruppouredoverThebrowniescanberefrigeratedforupto5daysbutyouwouldneedagreatdealofwillpowerforthemtolastthatlongFreezingisagoodwaytolengthentheirlifeandithastheaddedbonusofincreasingthefudginess

Elderflowersyrup

100mlwater100gcastersugar2largeheadsofelderflower

Put100gcastersugarinapanwith100mlwaterandbringtotheboilstirringtodissolvethesugarImmediatelyremovefromtheheatandadd2largeheadsofelderflowerLeavetoinfusefor20minutesthenstrainthroughapieceofwetmuslinorasieveLeavetocoolthenstoreinthefridgeforuptoaweek

StrawberryandRoseLemonadePuddingwithSaffronandCiderBrandyCustard

ThisisamarvellouswayofusingupthelastjarofstrawberryjambeforethesummerglutWehavepolishedoffoneofthesepuddingsinunder5minutesbetweenthefourofusThebrandyandsaffrongivethecustardcomplexityandpunchandcomplementthestrawberryinawayyoumightnothaveexpected

SERVES6160mlRoseLemonade(seehereoruseFentimans)150gsaltedbutteratroomtemperaturecutintocubes235gcastersugar160gplainfloursifted85mlsouredcream1largeegg2tspvanillaextract1frac12tspbicarbonateofsoda100gstrawberryjamahandfulofpalerosepetalstogarnish

FORTHESAFFRONANDCIDERBRANDYCUSTARD

12saffronstamens25mlciderbrandy480mldoublecream1vanillapod6eggyolks160gcastersugar

PuttheroselemonadeandbutterinapanandwarmoverthelowestpossibleheatuntilthebutteralmostmeltsthenremovefromtheheatAddthesugarandstirinwellWhiskinthesiftedflourin2stagesuntilcompletelyincorporatedthensetasideInaseparatebowlwhisktogetherthesouredcreameggvanillaextractandbicarbonateofsodaAddthistotheroselemonadeandflourmixtureandwhisktoincorporateoncemore

lemonadeandflourmixtureandwhisktoincorporateoncemore

Greasea12litrepuddingbasinwithbutterPutthestrawberryjaminthebottomofthebasinandtopwiththecakemixTakeapieceoffoillargeenoughtocoverthebasinandmakeapleatinthecentrethiswillallowthepuddingtoexpandduringcookingPutthefoiloverthebasinandtucktheedgesundertherimPutthebasininasteamercoverwithalidandsteamfor2hourscheckingthewaterlevelevery30minutesorsoandtoppingupwhennecessary(Thepuddingcanalsobesteamedinapressurecookeroveratrivetwith25cmwaterinthebottomatfullpressureforanhourtogetittothetablequicker)ThecustardcanbepreparedasthepuddingcomestotheendofitssteamingAddthesaffrontotheciderbrandytoinfusetheirheadyscentstogetherSplitthevanillapodopenandscrapeouttheseedsPuttheseedsandpodinaheavy-basedsaucepanwiththecreamandsetoveralowheatuntilalmostboilingRemovefromtheheatandletitcoolalittleWhisktheeggyolksandsugartogetherinabowluntiltheyolksturnpalethenpourinthecreamthroughasievewhiskingtocombinePourthemixtureintoacleanpanandsetoveralowheatCookstirringconstantlyuntilthemixturethickensItisimportantnottoleavethepanaloneatthisstageaswanderingconcentrationwillleadtoascrambledeggcustardIfyouhaveadigitalthermometerthecustardwillstarttothickenat70degCandbeatitsthickestat85degCndashanyhigherthanthatanditwillscrambleWithorwithoutathermometermuchoftheskillliesinbeingabletoseethischangeKeepacloseeyeonthecustardasyoustirandwatchforthemomentwhenthereisacleartrailleftbehindthespoononthebaseofthepanChalkupanotherkitchenskillwhenyouseethatvelvetsaucecompleted

Passthecustardthroughafinesieveandstirintheciderbrandyandsaffron

TurnthepuddingoutofthebasinandservewiththecustardSaffronandstrawberryisalip-smackingcombinationandcanbebetteredonlybytheadditionofafewpalerosepetalsscatteredoverthepuddingonceitisserved

VERMOUTH

EssentiallyvermouthismadewithabasewinethathasbeensweetenedwithamixtureofgrapejuiceandalcoholVariousbotanicalsextractsarethenaddedbeforematurationfilteringandbottlingThereareanincrediblenumberofvermouthsonthemarketatleast40varietiesTwoofthebest-knownaretheFrenchNoillyPratwhichuses20ndash30botanicalsandtheItalianMartiniRossiwhichcontains30Alsquotearsquoismadebymaceratingthebotanicalsinahighproofspiritinslowlyrevolvingbarrelsfor10ndash15daysthenasetratioofeachisaddedtothebasewineThisiseversoslightlymoreprofessionalthanshakingajamjarWewereinspiredbytheflavoursofAnticaFormulaandPunteMesand

bythesubtletyofBonmewhichcomesfromthePiedmontregionofItalyItisthecomplexitiesofvermouththatreallycapturedourattentionItworksasanaperitifacocktailingredientadigestifandasaningredientincookingThisisduetothemedicinalnatureofthebotanicalingredientssomestimulatehungerwhileotherssettlethestomachWewantedtocreateourownhousevermouththatmatchedourtastesanexpressionofourrestaurantandourlocationJackhadtoengageagooddealofgreymattertogethisheadaroundthemathswhenitcametothebotanicalsWhatfollowedwasnothingshortofalengthyprocessoftrialanderrorWehadbottlesandbottlesofvermouthallslightlydifferentasweincreasedanddecreasedtheproportionsofeachbotanicalteaTheEthicureanwaspepperedwithjarsofourexperimentsSomeweresoastringentthattheyresultedinextremefacialcontortionsamongstthefriendswhotriedthemWehadagoodchatwithJekkaMcVicarwhohelpeduschoosethevarietiesofherbsbestsuitedtoourrecipesandtobeinggrownintheWalledGardenTherecipebelowisforsweetvermouthbutthisisbynomeansadefinitiverecipeThepleasurecomesfromtryingoutyourowncombinationsPleasefeelfreetoleaveoutbotanicalsoraddnewonesofyourownWehaveincludedtheoptionofloweringthesugarcontentforadrierofferingSetasideasmallareaofyourkitchenandstackupthosejarsofmacerating

botanicalsTrythemallindividuallynotingtheirflavoursandyouwillgraduallybegintobeabletobuildyourownvermouthbasedonyourchosenprofileTheremayevenbethepossibilityofsubstitutingsomewildbitteringagentsforsomeoftheexoticbitterbotanicalsHereisashortlistof

possibilitiesCHAMOMILEusedinlotsofvermouthsaddsagoodfloralflavour

GORSEFLOWERSalternativebitterflavourMARITIMEPINENEEDLESresinousflavourFENNELSEEDSusedinsomevermouths

EQUIPMENT

bullScalesthatmeasureto01ofagramarecrucialforweighingoutthesmallamountsofeachbotanicalteaTheyareagreatpieceofequipmentandquiteinexpensivebullAhydrometerisusefulforworkingoutthealcoholcontentofyourfinishedvermouthbull20sterilejamjarsforthebotanicalsbullApipetteforaddingeachbotanicalteaalthoughateaspoonwillsufficebullAsmallteastrainerwillhelptokeepoutanypiecesofthebotanicalswhenaddingtheteatothebasewine

TheEthicureanVermouthBotanicals

ANGELICASEEDS(Angelicaarchangelica)Similarinaromatojuniper

BAY(Laurusnobilis)MedicinalqualitiesAnti-inflammatoryantibacterial

BLACKPEPPER(Pipernigrum)Hotwoodandfloralflavours

CARDAMOM(Amomumcardamom)AromaticandresinousdigestiveUsedtotreatinfections

CINAMMON(Cinnamomumverum)LaurelfamilySweetaromaticspice

CLOVE(Syzygiumaromaticum)CentralandSouthernEuropeprincipalingredientinAngosturabittersgoodfordigestionContainsglycosidesoneofthemostbitternaturalcompoundsknownandeugenolwhichhasantisepticandanaestheticqualities

CORIANDER(Coriandrumsativum)LemonandcitrusflavourWarmnuttyspicyorange

GENTIANROOT(Gentianalutea)VerybitterusedinAngostorabitters

JUNIPER(Juniperuscommunis)Pineyandresinous

MARJORAM(Origanummajorana)Balsamicandaromaticflavour

NUTMEG(Myristicafragrans)PreservinganddelicateagentORANGEPEELAromaticsweetonthenoseandforusakeyelementofourvermouth

ORRIS(Irisgermanica)EnhancesotheraromasandperfumesViolet-likesmelltasteslikeraspberry

QUASSIABARK(Quassiaamara)Quassinisthebitterestsubstanceinnature

ROSEMARY(Rosmarinusofficinalis)Aromaticwarmandslightlybitter

SAGE(Salviaofficinalis)containsthujoneaslightlyantiseptic-tastingcompoundSavouryflavour

STARANISE(Illiciumverum)AgreatflavourenhancerRichspice

VANILLA(Vanillaplanifolia)Addsaflavourofagedoakwhichisfoundinmaturevermouths

WORMWOOD(Artemisiaabsinthium)VerybittermedicinalpropertiesKeyingredientforanauthenticvermouth

YARROW(Achilleamillefolium)VerybitterOftencalledarrowrootintheUKitisregardedasahealingherb

Vermouth

QUANTITIESFOREACHBOTANICALTEA

Angelicaseeds15gBayleaves15gBlackpeppercorns10g

Blackpeppercorns10gCardamom1gCinammon83gClove05gCoriander15gGentianroot2gJuniper15gMarjoram5gNutmeg5gOrangepeel146gOrris6gQuassiabark4gRosemary5gSage15gStaranise5gVanilla5gWormwood4gYarrow2g

YourvermouthcanbestoredinasterilisedbottlewithagoodsealvacuumpumpingitisaverysensibleideaStoreinthefridgeanddrinkwithinacoupleofmonthswearesurethatitwillbegoneinaweek

ThebotanicalslistedherecanallbepurchasedonlineorfromChineseherbalistsWeuseacrispdryEnglishwhitewinefromSomersetasourbasewinealthoughinthepastwehaveusedaColombardandGrosMansengblendTryoutafewwhitewinesandseewhichoneyouprefer

WemakeourowncaramelandaddittothewineHoweverreducingtheamountofcaramelcanmakeverygooddryvermouthSweetvermouthtypicallycontains10ndash15percentsugarwhileadryonewillcontainnomorethan5percentItiscrucialtoraisethealcoholbyvolumeofthewine(thisisachievedbyaddingthebotanicalteas)asat13ndash15percentalcoholtheyeastwillstopconvertinggrapesugarsThisisimportantasyoudonotwantabottlethatwillcontinuetofermentAMuscatwinemakesanexcellentsweetvermouth

Thebasicproportionsforthisrecipeare500mlwine150mlintotalofthebotanicalteas200gcaramelThisyieldsjustunder700mlvermouth

TakeasmalljamjarandfillitaroundathirdfullwithyourbotanicalTopuptotwicetheheightthatthebotanicalreacheswithahighproofvodkaScrewonthelidandleavetomacerateatroomtemperaturefor2weeks

WhenmakingthecaramelforthevermouthfollowtheinstructionsforthesaltcaramelonhereomittingthesaltWerecommendtakingthecarameltoadarkambercolourforextradepthandcomplexityHeatingittosomewherebetween185and188degCwilldothetrickThiscanbepouredontoasiliconematandallowedtocoolintoasolidcaramelItcanbestoredinthesamewayasthesaltcarameluntilneeded

Whencombiningthecaramelwiththewineaddaquarterofthewine(oraslittleasneededtodissolvethecaramel)toapanandplaceonalowheatAddthecaramelshardsandstiruntilcompletelydissolvedAllowthemixturetocooltoroomtemperaturebeforecombiningwiththeremainingwineAddthebotanicalsintheproportionsgivenabovePleasetasteasyouaddthemasthiswillgiveyouasenseofwhateachingredientaddstoyourvermouth

HOWTOOAKYOURVERMOUTH

IfyouwouldliketotryoakingyourvermouthyouwillneedalargesterilisedjarwithawideneckPlaceahandfulofcleanoakchipsinthecentreofapieceofsterilisedmuslinandtiewitha

pieceofstringDropthebagofoakchipsintothejarandtopupwiththevermouthTryleavingforaweekandtasteregularlySomeofthebestvermouthsarematuredinoakthisisagreat

wayofsimulatingthatmaturationprocess

AtipforsterilisingtheoakchipswithoutremovingtoomuchoftheirflavourandtanninsistosteamthemPlaceinapanwithadropofwaterandalidturnuptoamediumheatandthechips

willsteam

RoseLemonade

WehavelovedFentimansrsquobotanicallybreweddrinksforyearsRecentlywehadadabbleatcookingwithsomeofthemandthewinnerwasroselemonadeWedecidedtoworkoutarecipeforourownversionInordertobrewitproperlywefirsthadtotrackdownagingerbeerplant(GBP)whichisessentiallyayeastcalledSaccharomycesflorentinusandabacteriumcalledBrevibacteriumvermiformeThesetwounlikelyfriendsformagelatinoussubstanceandasymbioticrelationshipwithinwhichtheyeastexcretes

alcoholandthebacteriumconsumesitYeasthasalowtoleranceofalcoholwhichofcourseremainslowduetothebacteriumGBPisbetterformakingdrinksthanordinaryyeastbecauseyouendupwithmuchbetterflavourslowalcoholandlittlechanceofdangerousexplosionsWeeventuallyfoundasupplieronlineandreceivedalittleenvelope

containingapacketofwhitejelly-likesubstanceyeastysweetandalcoholicWaitinglistspaymentsrefundsandrepaymentsfollowedAlittleresearchtoldusthataverycleverchapbythenameofHarryMarshallWarddiscoveredGBPrsquostalentforbrewingin1892WeusedJapaneserosepetalsRosarugosaastheyreallydoofferthefinest

flavourIfyoucanrsquotgettheseyoucouldtrydriedrosepetalsPleaseavoidrosesthathavebeensprayedwithchemicalsThegeneralruleisthatthepalervarietieshaveabetterflavour

MAKES2LITRES250gcastersugarjuiceandzestof1lemon25cmpieceoffreshgingerroughlychoppedahandfulofrosepetals1tbspGBP

ItisreallyimportanttosterilisealltheequipmentyouuseincludingthemuslinandstringYoucandothisbypouringboilingwaterovereverythingandthenleavingittodryPutthesugarandlemonzestinapanwith250mlwaterBringtoalightsimmerstirringtodissolvethesugarthenremovefromtheheatandleavetocool

Pour175litreswaterintoalargecontainer(alargeliddedplasticboxisfine)andaddthelemonjuicethiswillneutralisethechlorinegenerallypresentintapwaterwhichwouldotherwiseaffecttheyeastrsquosproductivityStraininthesugarandwatermixturePutthegingerinapieceofmuslintiewithstringanddropitinAddtheGBPthencoverandleaveatroomtemperaturefor5daysBesuretoopenthelidbrieflyeverydayinordertoletoutanycarbondioxidethathasbuiltupotherwiseitwillopenofitsownaccord

Strainthemixturethroughafinesieveintoasterilised2litreplasticbottle

Strainthemixturethroughafinesieveintoasterilised2litreplasticbottleandputonthetopSavetheGBPandgiveitarinseitwillhavegrown(Ifyoustoreitinthefridgeinasmallsterilecontaineritwillkeepforupto2weeks)After2daystheroselemonadewillbereadytodrinkalthoughifyoudesireafizzierbrewleaveitforlongerRefrigerationwillhaltanyfurtherfermentation

TheEthicureanCocktail

ThiscocktailhasquicklybecomeaclassicatTheEthicureanadelightfulbalanceofsweetsharpandsavouryAsthedayslengthenitmakesaperfectpre-dinnerdrinkinthegardenThymehasantisepticqualitiesasdohoneyandlemonmakingthisanexcellentpick-me-upwithorwithoutthevodkaInvestinginaninexpensiveBostoncocktailshakerisaverygoodideaIt

allowsyoutobuildandshakedrinkscontainingjuiceaeratingthemchillingthemquicklyandformingapleasingfrothMostbartenderswouldadvisethatshakingshouldbeusedonlywhendrinkscontainsomejuiceYouwillsignificantlylowerthetemperaturebyshakingbutexpectasmalllevelofdilutionfromtheiceIfalltheingredientsareclearstirringisthebetteroptionpreservingtheclarityofthedrink

SERVES1icecubesfrac14lemon2sprigsofthymeplus1toserve1tsphoney25mlChaseEnglishPotatovodka100mlapplejuice

Fillyourglasstotherimwithice

SqueezethewedgeoflemonintotheglasspartofaBostonshakerthendropinthesqueezedlemonwedgetogetherwiththethymeMashtogetherwithawoodenpestleAddthehoneypouringinjustalittlewarmwatertodissolveMeasureoutthevodkatherersquosnoharminadoubleifthewindtakesyouandpouritontotheotheringredientsAddtheapplejuiceandtopuptojustbelowtherimwithiceTapthetinontopoftheglassandshaketillwatercondensesontheoutsideoftheshakerSeparatebyusingtheheelofyourhandtoknockwheretheglassandtinaretouchingPourthoselastfewpreciousdropsintothetinthenplaceaHawthornestraineroverthetinandpourthemixtureintoyourchilledglassTopupwithiceandasmallsprigofthymethenaddmorejuicetotaste

HONEYANDTHYMESYRUP

WeliketomakeahalfandhalfsyruptouseinthecocktailaboveIfyouaremakingafewcocktailsitrsquosagoodwayofsavingtime

1tsphoneypercocktail1sprigofthymeforeverydrinkyouwouldlike

Placethehoneyandthymeinapanandadd1teaspoonofwaterforeveryteaspoonofhoneyBringgentlytoasimmerthenremovefromtheheatandleavetocoolStrainintoasterilisedcontainerandstoreinthefridgeitwillkeepfor2weeks

Negroni

TheNegroniisanenduringclassicThepreserveofbartendersandrestaurateursithasasatisfyingbitternessthatiswelcomeafteralongshiftWefindourselvessettledinbythesecondThiscocktailismorethanthesumofitspartsanditssuccessrestsonitsbalancedsimplicityWeuseourownVermouth(seehere)butAnticaFormulaandPunteMesmakesuperbonesWehavealsoservedthisdrinkwithasageleafasagarnishasitfindsa

harmoniousplaceamongstthearomaticsintheginandvermouth

SERVES11orange25mlgin25mlvermouth(seehere)25mlCampari

ChillatumblerwithicetoppedupwithwaterTakeafinesliceofzestfromtheorangeavoidingthebitterpithFillalargeglassonethirdfullwithiceandpourovertheginvermouthandCampariStiruntiltheoutsideoftheglasscondensesthenstrainintothechilledtumblerandsqueezealittleofthepreciousflavourfromtheorangezestBrushtherimofthetumblerwiththeorangezestthenpinchandsqueezeitovertheglasstoreleasetheessentialoilsTopupwithicetobelowtherim(aboveismostuncouth)thenslotinasliceoforange

Foratwisttrystirringacoupleoflovageleavesintothecontentsofthemixingglass

VERMOUTH

Althoughtheearliestreferencestoanaromatisedwinecropuparound1250BCinChinaandIndiaittookawhiletocatchoninEnglandPurlwasaseventeenth-centurybitteraleinfused

withwormwoodandafewotherbotanicalsmainlyusedtosettlethestomachBy1690lsquoStoughtonrsquosGreatCordialElixirrsquoaninfusionof22botanicalshadbecomeapopularcurefor

hangoversandgastricailmentslsquoDrankbymostgentlemenhelliptorecoverandrestoreaweakenrsquodstomachorlostappetitehellipoccasionedbyharddrinkingorsicknessrsquo(Imbibehere)

VermouthasweknowittodaybeganlifeintheregionaroundTurinItalyintheeighteenthcenturyRelativelysweetwithafull-bodiedherbaceousflavourthisdark-reddrinkwasfollowed

bydrierstraw-colouredstylesfromFranceinparticularChambeacuteryintheSavoieregion

RecipeList

FigsWrappedinPorkBellywithLavenderandBuffaloMozzarellaCaramelisedChicoryLabnehandMaceratedStrawberrySalad

RoastedTomatoandLiquoriceBasilSoupRoastedCourgetteandCobnutSoupwithLabnehandGinger

TurmericandMintDressingSousedMackerelCarrotFennelandSaffronwithGooseberryand

MintGranitaChilledBeetrootSoupPar-celWalnutIceCreamandRoasted

CobnutOilEwersquos-curd-stuffedCourgetteFlowerswithFennelSherbet

GlobeArtichokeswithHollandaiseSauceandSumacPeaGoatBaconandLovageBroth

ScallopsinPuffPastrywithVermouthandFennelCreamPickledPollackwithFlame-roastedPeppersCucumberPulBiber

ChilliandWaterMintDorsetBlueVinnyandFlame-roastedPepperswithCharredLittle

GemJohnDorywithMorelMushroomsFlatBeansHaricotBeansand

HamHockStockMusselsinCiderwithTarragon

SteamedMegrimSolewithRockSamphireandSumac-braisedFennel

PickledrocksamphireWaterBuffaloFilletwithClearChickenStockTarragonandSalt-

bakedBabyBeets

BarbecuedHorseMackerelwithCobnutSalbitxadaSauceFennelandSumacGravadTrout

WhiteRaspberryLoganberryandEwersquosYoghurtTerrinewithSweetCicelyConfit

ElderflowerSorbetwithFennelSherbetandWildStrawberriesPineappleWeedJelly

ElderflowerandLavenderMarshmallowsSpicedGingerBeer

SummerElderRawRhubarbSmash

DoubleSloeGinandTonic

SUMMERARRIVESWHENTHEcentralwalkwaythroughtheyewhedgeshasprogressedfromacarpettoagraduatingwallofcolourThisisMaddytheflowergardenerrsquosfavouritetimeastheperennialstaketheirplaceonthestageTherearenepetaachilleasalviaandgeraniums

OnMidsummerrsquosEvebonfirescanbeseenontheMendipsatduskastheoldpaganceremonyofstrengtheningthesuntakesplaceInthetrackthroughtheorchardthelavenderisbeginningtoflowersomeofitdestinedformarshmallowsservedtoastedtoorderintheglasshouseMarkcarriesupboxesofstrawberriesstillcoveredinstrawtheoddwoodlouseScramblingtosafetyThewildstrawberriesbarelyamouthfularepickedaswegathermintandthenewbright-greenlovageleaves

MatthewandPaucircladisappearforadaytotheirsamphirespotinSouthWalesTheyreturnwitharmfulsofthissaltyvegetablenotawhisperofthenameofthebeachTheropehanginginthedippingpondisaladderforthefirstdragonfliesoftheyeartakingwingThepondonceusedforwateringcansisteemingwithlife

MarkhassownsaladleavesthatresistboltingintheheatAnhourafterhepicksthemtheysitlayeredonplateswithpickledpollockandredpeppersWeroastthedeep-redpeppersandpurpleauberginesoveranopenflameuntiltheychangefromrichredandpurpletoashblackThesmellisperfectTheycoolbeforetheskinispeeled

Theelderhedgeprovidesuswiththefirststar-headedelderflowerswiththeirtranquilscentNextcometheberriesandsomewillbepickedunripetobepickledwithpepperandSaltndashwethinkofthemasSomersetcapers

IndescendingordertiedtofencepostsareraspberriesblackberriesloganberriesandwhiteraspberriesThesefruitsmaketheirwayintomyriadrecipessetcreamssorbetsjamsandvinegarsThewhiteraspberriesaremuddledincocktailsprovidinganaciditythatmakeslemonredundantAswefillcontainerswearecarefulnottopickahoneybeeIvorthebeekeeperarrivesandopensthehiveThequeenrsquoswingsareclippedsheismarkedandthenreturnedTheespaliersaredroopingundertheweightoffruitThereareapricotsgreengagesandVictoriaplumsOnthestovesitsanever-bubblingpanoffruitndashgreengageandvanillaperhapsorblackberrywith

bubblingpanoffruitndashgreengageandvanillaperhapsorblackberrywithbourbonwhiskey

TheartichokesplumpandgreenwithsharpscalesaresnippedoffaboveanysecondarybudsThekitchenmakesahollandaiseandtheglobesarecookedandplacedinabowlservedwiththisbutterysauceWithin20minutestherimissurroundedbystrippedpetalsandfingersreachfortheheart

MaddyrsquosflowersarejoinedbythebloomsofcampanulaechinaceaandpotentillaTheborderoutsidetheglasshouseisamovingriotofbutterfliesandhoneybeeswhiletheoddoneisskilfullyfreedfromthediningroom

BythistimethefoxgloveshavebeguntotumbleovertopheavywithblueflowersMeanwhilethefirstapplesarestartingtocropWorcesterPearmainBeautyofBathandCheddarGoldarecollectedintrugsandbasketsThedaysareshorteningandthecropsarepreservedpickledandstored

FigsWrappedinPorkBellywithLavenderandBuffaloMozzarella

CompromiseisdifficultwhenyouareabigfanoffigsTheyarewonderfulwhentheyareripebutnotreallyworthtastingatanyotherstageUnripefigshavegottobeoneofthemostdisappointingfoodsthereisTheproblemisthattheyaresodifficulttotransportthateitheryouhavetogrowthemyourselforbeclosetoagoodsourceContrarytopopularbelieffigtreesdogrowwellintheUKGrantedtheyarenomatchinsizeforsomeEuropeanvarietiesbuttheirfreshnessmakesupforwhatmightinitiallybeperceivedasadeficiencyThefigtreeattheWalledGardenneverceasestosurpriseusasitseemsto

beoblivioustothevolatilityoftheBritishweatherItlivesinablissfulstateofconstantexpansionextendingitsleafybrancheswithoutshameclaimingthefrontbrickarchwayasitsrightfulareaensuringthatallvisitorspassing

thefrontbrickarchwayasitsrightfulareaensuringthatallvisitorspassingthroughthetopgatearewelcomedbyitsgenerouspresenceAssummerprogressesopeningtheheavywoodengatewithoutdamagingthetreersquosbranchesbecomesmoreandmorechallengingItisalmostasifitistryingtoremindusofitshealthygrowtheverymorningThereisnoneedforsuchattention-seekingbehaviourItisoneofthemostwatchedtreesinourgardenThefigsaresoprecioustousthatwecannotriskanyofthembeingwastedFigshaveanaturalaffinitywithsaltyingredientsandarecommonly

servedwithprosciuttoHoweverwefindthatinthisdishthecrunchofthefigseedsisgreatlyenhancedbythecrispinessofthecuredporkbellyHoneyandfigsisanothercombinationthatworksremarkablywellWe

trieditwithlavenderhoneyandfoundthatitwasevenbetterItmadesensethentousestalksoflavendertoattachtheporkbellytothefigThecreaminessofthebuffalomozzarellaservestobalancethesweetnessof

thehoneyandfigswiththesaltinessoftheporkbellyTohaveaccesstoBritish-madebuffalomilkmozzarellafromLaverstokeParkFarmisassatisfyingashavingaBritish-madechorizosausage(seehere)Eachhassomanyapplicationsinthekitchenthatanychefseekingtousesolelylocalingredientshasmuchcausetocelebrate

SERVES48ripefigs1buffalomilkmozzarellaslicedinto8pieces16slicesofcuredporkbellysuchaspancetta16lavenderspearsfromlavenderinflower4tsplavenderhoney

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6WashanddrythefigstakingcarenottodamagetheskinCutacross2ndash3cmdeepthroughthestemofeachandopenthefiguplikeaflowerStuffasliceofmozzarellaintoeachfigthenwrap2slicesofcuredporkbellyroundtheoutsideSpikeeachfigwith2lavenderflowerspearstoholdtheporkinplaceduringbaking

Putthefigsinabakingdishdrizzlefrac12teaspoonoflavenderhoneyovereachoneandcookfor10ndash12minutesuntiltheporkbellyiscrispandthefigslightlycaramelisedCoolslightlybeforeserving

lightlycaramelisedCoolslightlybeforeserving

CaramelisedChicoryLabnehandMaceratedStrawberrySalad

ThearrivalofsummerattheWalledGardenoftentakesusbysurpriseThefirstsignisthequietmurmurofinsectsfromvariouscornersofthegardenthentheburstofcolourintheherbaceousbordersalongsidethecentralbrickpathAstheinsectsnoisilygatheraroundtheseflowerswerealisethatsummerhastiptoedinTherefollowschild-likeexcitementfromkitchenfolkandfront-of-housestaffalikeThearrivalofsummermeansmoreingredientstoexperimentwithandmoreexcusesforforaysaroundthegardenThissaladshowcasesallthatisgreatabouttheseasonStrawberriesare

particularlyimportanttotheSomersetareaNotfarfromusyouwillfindthefamousStrawberryLineanoldrailwaylinenowacyclepathwhichrunsthroughneighbouringvillagesBuiltintheVictorianeraittookitsnamefromthefamousCheddarstrawberriesthatusedtobecarriedalongthelinetoLondonInthisrecipeweusechicoryasacontrasttothetangysweetnessofthemaceratedstrawberries

SERVES4500gewersquosmilkyoghurtfrac12tspsalt120gmedium-sizedstrawberrieshulledandslicedverticallyinto3about200mlcidervinegar300gcastersugar6largeheadsofchicorycutintoquartersthroughtherooticingsugarfordustingalittlegroundcinnamonalittlecobnutoil(orhazelnutoil)afewborageflowers(optional)blackpepper

PreparethelabnehandstrawberriesadayinadvanceLineasievewithapieceofmuslinoraclothallowingtheendstooverhangthesievePuttheyoghurtinandmixinthesaltCovertheyoghurtwiththeendsofthe

yoghurtinandmixinthesaltCovertheyoghurtwiththeendsofthemuslinandthenplacethesieveoverabowlLeaveinthefridgeovernightThefollowingdayliquidwillhavecollectedinthebowlandtheyoghurtwillbethickerandcreamierDiscardtheliquidandspoontheyoghurtintoanairtightcontainerKeepinthefridgeuntilneeded

PuttheslicedstrawberriesinaplasticboxandpourinenoughcidervinegarjusttocoverthemCoverandleaveinthefridgeovernightThenextdaystrainoffthevinegarintoabowlAddthecastersugartoitandstirthoroughlyuntildissolvedPourthevinegaroverthestrawberriesandrefrigerateuntilneeded

Placeagriddlepanoveramedium-highheatuntilhotLightlydustthechicorywithicingsugarandthenplaceflat-sidedownonthegriddleCookwithoutmovingituntilitbeginstocarameliseunderneathandcharredlinesdevelopTurnthepiecesontotheirotherflatsideandrepeatthenflipthemontotheirroundedsideandcookuntiltenderRemovethechicoryfromthegriddlepanandsetasidetocoolalittle

Dividethechicorybetween4platesspreadingoutsomeoftheleavesDotthestrawberriesthroughoutthenaddseveralteaspoonsofthelabnehSprinklecinnamonoverthelabnehDresswithcobnutoilsomeofthemaceratingliquidfromthestrawberriesandborageflowersifyouhaveanyCoarselygrindsomeblackpepperoverthestrawberriesandserveimmediately

RoastedTomatoandLiquoriceBasilSoup

RoastingorcaramelisingvegetablescantransformanaveragesoupintosomethingtrulyspectacularPairitwithalittletexturalcontrastandburstsofflavouraswedoherewithbasilcroutonsandgoldentomatoandapplebalsamicjelliesandyouaregoingfarbeyondwhatmostpeoplehavecometoexpectwhentheyhearthewordsoupTheflavoursyoucanachievebyroastingtomatoesaregloriousIndeedit

ishardtothinkofaculinaryworldwithouttomatoesAsPaucirclaourresidentMexicanwillproudlytellyoutheyarenativetoMexicoTheSpaniardsbroughtthembacktosouthernEuropeforcultivationonamajorscaleDryingoutsomeofthemoisturefromthetomatoesintensifiestheirflavourandthebrowningfromtheroastingprocessaddsanewcomplexitytooneofourfavouriteingredientsTomatoesareagreatsourceofumami(seehere)WhentheyarecombinedwithmushroomstockinthisrecipeweachievesavouryheavenAddtothatawarminfusionofherbsandpiecesofthetomatovinewhichcontainsincrediblyfresharomatictomatoflavoursandweguaranteethatthisisasouptorivalanyyouhavehadbeforeWeuseastrainofliquoricebasilinthisrecipeastheanisenotesmakea

superbaccompanimenttotomatoMarkthegardenerspoilsuswithuniqueheritageorheirloomstrainsofplantsandherbseachwitharicherflavourthanthecommonhybridisedstrainsHegrowscinnamonbasilalongsidetomatoestoattractpestsawayfromtheredfruitplantsSeekoutaheritageorheirloomseedcompanyifyouareinterestedingrowingherbsastheywilldelightfromaculinaryaspectbutwillalsoprovideseedforthefollowingyearsGenovesebasilmammothbasilandMrsBurnslemonbasilareheirloomvarietieswellworthsearchingfor

SERVES4

SERVES41kgvine-ripenedtomatoesvinesreserved2garlicclovespeeled2bayleaves10sprigsofthyme20gbasilleaves(seehere)

rapeseedoilfrac14tspsmokedpaprika100mlmushroomstock(seehere)100mlwhitechickenstock(seehere)2dashesofWorcestershiresaucecidervinegar1tbsptomatopureacuteeseasalt

FORTHEGOLDENTOMATOJELLY(OPTIONALBUTRECOMMENDED)500ggoldentomatoesfrac14tspagaragarpowder

FORTHEAPPLEBALSAMICJELLY(OPTIONALBUTRECOMMENDED)200mlapplebalsamicvinegar(suchasAspallrsquos)frac12tspagaragarpowder

FORTHEBASILCROUTONS(OPTIONALBUTRECOMMENDED)

1thicksliceofsourdoughbreadcutinto1ndash2cmcubesrapeseedoiltocoat1ndash2tspicingsugar10gbasilleavesflakyseasalt

StartbypeelingthetomatoesTheeasiestwaytodothisistocutawidecrossatthebaseofeachtomatoscoringonlythroughtheskinHaveabowloficedwateratthereadyPutthescoredtomatoesinabowlpourboilingwateroverthemandleavefornomorethan30secondstheskinsshouldsplitwhereyoumadetheincisionRemovefromthewaterandplungestraightintotheicedwaterLeaveuntilcoldthenpeelofftheskins

Heattheovento180degCGasMark4Slicethetomatoesintoquartersandputtheminaroastingtraycut-sideupAddthegarlicclovesbayleaveshalfthethymesprigsandhalfthebasilleavesDrizzlewithenoughrapeseedoiltocoattheingredientslightlyandaddageneroussprinklingofseasaltPlaceintheovenandroastfor20ndash30minutesuntiltheedgesofthe

Placeintheovenandroastfor20ndash30minutesuntiltheedgesofthetomatoesbegintoblackenTakeoutoftheovenandleavetocoolRemovethebayleavesthymeandbasilanddiscard

Transferthetomatoesgarlicandtomatopureacuteetoablenderwiththesmokedpaprikaandblitzonfullspeedfor1minuteAddthemushroomstockandchickenstockandblitzforabout2minutesPassthroughafinesieveintoasaucepanaddtheWorcestershiresauceandbringtoasimmerImmediatelyremovefromtheheatandaddthereservedtomatovinesplustheremainingbasilandthymeLeavetoinfuseinawarmplacefor15minutesStrainthroughafinesieveoncemoreseasonwithsalttotasteandadashofcidervinegarforalittlewelcomeacidityIfyouleftthesouptoinfusesomewherewarmenoughitshouldstillbeagoodtemperaturetoeatIfyoupreferitalittlewarmerthenreheatquicklyandserveimmediatelyndashwithalloranyoftheoptionalgarnishesifyoulike

Ifmakingthejelliesitisusefultoknowthatagaragarwillremainstableuptoroughly80degCWeusuallyserveoursoupsaround75degC

Forthegoldentomatojellyblitzthetomatoestoapureacuteeinafoodprocessorfor2minutesPlaceinafinesievesetoverabowlandleavetodrainuntilyouhave200mlliquidPressgentlywiththebackofaladleifthetomatoesneedalittlecoaxingTasteandseasonwithsalttotastePuttheliquidinasaucepanandslowlyaddtheagaragarstirringconstantlyBringtotheboiloverahighheattohydratetheagaragarImmediatelyremovefromtheheatandpourintoasquareorrectangularTupperwarecontainerthatallowstheliquidtobe1cmdeepLeavetocooltheliquidwillsetTurnoutontoaboardandcutinto1cmcubesStorecoveredinthefridgeuntilneeded

FortheapplebalsamicjellyputthevinegarinasaucepanandslowlyaddtheagaragarstirringconstantlyBringtotheboiloverahighheatthenimmediatelyremovefromtheheatandpourintoasquareorrectangularTupperwarecontainerthatallowstheliquidtobe1cmdeepAllowtocoolandsetthencutinto1cmcubesasforthetomatojellyStoreinthefridgeDropthejellycubesintothehotsoupimmediatelybeforeserving

IfyouwanttoservethesoupwiththecroutonstossthecubesofbreadinalittlerapeseedoilandflakyseasaltuntillightlycoatedthensiftafineevenlayeroficingsugaroverthemPutthebreadinaroastingtraywiththebasil

layeroficingsugaroverthemPutthebreadinaroastingtraywiththebasilandplaceinanovenpreheatedto180degCGasMark4Cookfor5ndash10minutesuntilgoldenbrowntossinghalfwaythroughtoensureevenbrowningScatterthecroutonsoverthesouptoserve

WARMINFUSIONS

TheflavourofmostgreenherbsdullsafterevenashortperiodofcookingInfusingliquidsstocksandevensoupswithherbsatthelastminuteensuresthatthegreennotesofeachherbremainasfreshandpungentaswhentheywerepickedThemostcommonwaytoprepareawarminfusionistobringabout500mlliquidtotheboilremovefromtheheatimmediatelyandaddahandfulofherbsLeavetoinfusefor15ndash20minutesthenstrainthroughaveryfinesievetasteanduseimmediatelyWerecommendexperimentingwiththismethodOccasionallyyouwillneedmoreherbsthanyoumightexpecttogetthedesiredresult

moreherbsthanyoumightexpecttogetthedesiredresult

RoastedCourgetteandCobnutSoupwithLabnehandGingerTurmericandMintDressing

CourgettesarearelativelyrecentadditiontoBritishcookingbecomingwidelyknownonlyinthemidtwentiethcenturyasaresultofElizabethDavidrsquoswritingAdmittedlytheyarenotthemostfascinatingofvegetablesbutlabellingthemastastelessorwateryisunfairinourviewWhilsttheydohaveahighwatercontent(theyareafterallrelatedtowatermelonsandcucumbers)wewouldurgeanyonewhothinkstheyaretastelesstotrygrowingtheirownWhentheyaresmallandfreshtheyhaveasubtlenuttinessunlikeanyothermemberoftheCucurbitafamilytowhichtheybelongTheadditionoftoastedcobnutsinthisdishemphasisesthenuttinessinherentinourfreshproducemagnificentlyThereisanimpressiverowofcobnuttreesinthelowercornerofthe

WalledGardenResemblingagroupofwiselycontentelderstheseprosperousleafytreesareknownforbeingeasytokeepThisisprobablywhytheyarelovedbyallatBarleyWoodparticularlysquirrelsandchefs

SERVES81kgsmallfirmcourgettesslicedinto2cmpiecesrapeseedoil500gonionsfinelysliced250gcarrotsfinelysliced250gceleryfinelysliced1tbspsaltplusmoreforthefinalseasoning40gfreshcobnutsfinelychoppedthenlightlytoastedinadryfryingpan

FORTHELABNEH

500gyoghurtfrac12tspsalt1tbspfinelychoppedmarjoram1tbspfinelychoppedoregano

FORTHEGINGERTURMERICANDMINTDRESSING

85mlrapeseedoil

85mlrapeseedoil50mlcidervinegar1tspEnglishmustardfrac12tspgroundgingerfrac14tspgroundturmeric1tspchoppedmint

ThelabnehmustbemadeadayinadvanceLineasievewithapieceofmuslinandputtheyoghurtinitStirinthesaltcoverwiththeoverhangingendsofthemuslinandthensetoverabowlndashitshouldbedeepenoughtoallowtheliquidtodrainofftheyoghurtLeaveinthefridgeovernightThefollowingdaydiscardtheliquidunwrapthelabnehandputitinabowlStirintheherbsKeepinthefridgeuntilneeded

Tomakethedressingblendalltheingredientstogetheruntilwellcombinedthenseasonwithsalttotaste

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6TossthecourgetteswithalittlerapeseedoiluntillightlycoatedthenspreadthemoutinaroastingtrayPlaceintheovenandroastfor20minutesMeanwhileheatathinfilmofrapeseedoilinalargesaucepanaddtheonionscarrotsandceleryandsweatfor10ndash15minutesuntiltenderStirregularlyanddonotallowthevegetablestocolourAddtheroastedcourgettesandsweatfor5minuteslongerAddenoughwaterbarelytocoverthevegetablesandbringtoagentlesimmerAddthesaltandcookfor5minutesthendecantintoablenderinbatchesifnecessaryBlitzuntilsmooththenaddenoughwatertotakeittoyourdesiredconsistencywelikeitonthethinsideBlitzoncemorethenpassthroughafinesieveforavelvetymouthfeelSeasonwithsalttotaste(TheSoupcanbekeptinthefridgeforupto5daysatthispoint)ReheatgentlythenpourthesoupintoservingbowlsandfinisheachonewithatablespoonoflabnehasprinklingofchoppedcobnutsandadrizzleofthedressingServewithseededbreadandsaltedbutter

daggerCobnutsareoneofthemostwonderfulhistoricallyrichnativenutswehaveyetsurprisinglytheyaregreatlyunderusedinBritishcookingAvarietyofhazelnutthecobnuthasbeenpresentinourgardensandorchardssinceatleastthesixteenthcenturyHistoricallycobnutshavebeeninstrumentalinhedgerow-growingformingadenseboundaryto

keepdomesticlivestockcontainedTheykeepfreshformonthsandwerethusavaluablesourceofproteinforthoseatseaThemostcommonvarietytheKentishcobwasintroducedaround1830ItwasgrownsosuccessfullyinKentthatcultivationincreaseddramaticallyintheHomeCountiesfromwherecobnutscouldbequicklytransportedtoLondonDuringtheFirstWorldWarlabourintheUKbecamemoreexpensiveandthenativeplantscouldnotcompetewithimportedfruitandnutsThisledtothedemiseofplantsinKentculminatinginnear-extinctionbytheearly1990s

SousedMackerelCarrotFennelandSaffronwithGooseberryandMintGranita

MackerelareoneofthemoststunningfishinBritishwatersTheirstripygreenish-bluebackaffordsthemexcellentcamouflagefromabovewhiletheirsilverbellygivesanimpressivealmostethereallookastheyswimatgreatspeedinpurposefulshoalsThebesttimetoeatmackerelisinthesummerItisthenthattheygather

closetoshoreinsearchoffryallowingthemtobeeasilyline-caughtamoresustainablefishingmethodthannetsortrawlingItisalsowhentheystarttoputontheweightthatwillallowthemtoliveindeepwatersduringwinterTheadditionalweightisrichinomega-3fattyacidsandconsequentlytheyareOneofthehealthiestfishyouwillhavethepleasureofeatingWhenpurchasinglookoutforfirmshinyfleshandbrighteyesassignsoffreshnessSousingorpicklingmackerelisagreatwayofpreservingit

freshnessSousingorpicklingmackerelisagreatwayofpreservingitMackerelrsquospairingwithgooseberryisaclassiccombinationthathas

survivedthetestoftimeThenaturalpartnershipbetweenthesetwoingredientshasnotgoneunnoticedbytheFrenchwhonamedthegooseberrygroseilleagravemaquereauormackerelberrySadlygooseberriesarenotgrownintheWalledGardensowegetthemfromourfriendsattheCommunityFarmacoupleofmilesdowntheroadForaberrythatisregardedbysomeasaquintessentialBritishfruit

gooseberriesareprettyelusiveevenwheninseasoninJuneandJulyThefactthattheyhaveoftenbeencriticisedforbeingtootartmighthaveledtotheirdemise

SERVES4ndash61times350ndash500gmackerelfilleted8ndash12saffronstrands

FORTHECURE

100gfineseasalt100gcastersugar1tbspcorianderseeds

FORTHESOUSINGLIQUOR

250mlvintagecidervinegarsuchasOstlerrsquos100gcastersugar1staranisefrac14tspcorianderseedsfrac14tspblackpepper3saffronstrands1shallotveryfinelydiced2carrotsslicedintowafer-thinlongstripspreferablyonamandolinefrac12fennelbulbslicedwaferthinpreferablyonamandoline

FORTHEGOOSEBERRYANDMINTGRANITA

500ggooseberriestoppedandtailed100gcastersugar

10gmintleaves

ThisdishneedstobestartedatleastadayinadvanceRemovethebonesfromtheribcageofthemackerelfilletsusingapairofpliersortweezersNextlocatethebonesthatrundownthecentreofeachfilletWithanextremelysharpknifesliceatanangledownonesideofthebonesthendowntheothersideYouwillnowbeabletoremoveanddiscardthethinstripcontainingthebones

BlitzthecureingredientsinafoodprocessoruntilthecorianderseedsareasfineasthesaltandsugarSpreadthecuremixoutonaplatelargeenoughtoholdthemackerelfilletsPlacethemackerelonthecureskin-sideupcoverwithclingfilmandleaveinthefridgefor2hoursRemovefromthecurewashunderagentlyrunningtapandpatdrywithkitchenpaperPlaceinthefridge

ForthesousingliquorputalltheingredientsexceptthecarrotsandfennelintoasaucepanandbringtotheboilRemovefromtheheatandpouroverthecarrotskeepingthefennelseparateAllowtocooltoroomtemperaturethenchillCoverthemackerelintheliquorandleaveinthefridgeovernight

Tomakethegranitabring500mlwatertotheboilinasaucepanPutthegooseberriesinasteamerbasketandplaceoverthewaterCoverandsteamfor45minutesThesteambreaksdownthegooseberriesandtheirjuicedripsintothewaterThegooseberriesareleftwithlittleflavourafterwardssoarebestdiscarded

Removethepanfromtheheataddthesugartothegooseberry-flavouredwaterandstirtodissolveGentlyrollthemintleavesbetweenyourthumbandfingerthenputthemintheliquidandleavetoinfusefor20minutesRollingtheleavesbruisesthemslightlywithoutdamagingthemsothattheygiveoffmorearomaandflavourtheliquidmoreeffectivelyStraintheliquidthroughmuslinorafinesieveandleavetocoolthenchillPourintoaplasticboxandputinthefreezerLeavefor1houroruntilitrsquosstartingtosetaroundtheedgesthenremovefromthefreezerandrakestraightlinesfromtoptobottomwithaforkPlacebackinthefreezerfor30minutesandthenrakewithaforkagainRepeatuntilthegranitaiscompletelyfrozenintoicecrystalsItwillkeepinthefreezerforamonth

crystalsItwillkeepinthefreezerforamonth

WhenthemackerelhashaditsnightinthefridgeremoveitfromthesouseandpatdryCutthefilletsinto1ndash2cmstrips(thethintailsectionsmakeatastysnackwhileyouplateuptherestofthedish)ThesousingliquorwillbealittlecloudyafterthemackerelhasspentsometimeinitIfyouareusingthisrecipeforadinnerpartyandwanttogivetheextrawowfactorthendiscardtheliquidandmakeafreshbatchThiswillgivegreatclaritytothefinisheddish

ToservebunchsomefennelinthecentreofeachservingbowlandplacethemackerelarounditRollthecarrotsintoribbonsandarrangethemaroundthemackerelPourinenoughofthesousingliquidjusttocoverthebottomofeachbowlPlaceatablespoonofthegranitaontopofthefennelandfinishwithacoupleofstrandsofsaffronineachbowl

daggerMackerelhasbeenafavouritefishinBritainforcenturiesItformedthebasisoftheRomanliquamenalsoknownasgarumafermentedfishsauceusedincookingandwhichtheybroughtwiththemtotheBritishIslesRecordsshowthatasearlyas1353DanielRoughtheclerkofRomney

KentandaprominentfishmongersoldmackereltothelocalsBythe1660sitseemsthatmackerelhadbecomepopularfurtherinlandasitstartscroppingupinbreakfastdishesoftheperiodSuchwideravailabilitymighthavebeentheresultofanActofParliamentpassedin1669whichfinallydeclaredthatLondonrsquosfishmarketatBillingsgatecouldopensixdaysperweek

daggerContrarytocommonbeliefthegooseberryisnotanativeberryOriginallycultivatedincoolerareasofEuropeitgrowssowellinBritishsoilthatitquicklybecamenaturalisedRecordsfromtheroyalgardenatWestminstershowthatbusheswereplantedinthethirteenthcenturyBythenineteenthcenturygooseberrieswerecultivatedonalargecommercialscaleCompetitivegooseberry-growingclubswereestablishedallovertheUKandthequesttofindthebestandbiggestfruitwastakenextremelyseriouslyUnfortunatelyintheearly1900stheentiregooseberrycropwaswipedoutduetoamildewdiseasebroughtinfromtheUnitedStatesLuckilyforourBritishpalatestheplantwasreintroducedalthoughitneverregainedthepopularityithadenjoyedintheVictorianera

ChilledBeetrootSoupPar-celWalnutIceCreamandRoastedCobnutOil

DuringourfirstsummerattheWalledGardenwenoticedwithsomedegreeofsurprisethatwhenevertherewasevenaslightindicationofsunnyweathercustomerswouldignorethefreshlymadehotsouponthemenupreparedwithvegetablespickedfromthegardenthatsamemorningThischilledbeetrootsoupprovedtobeanacceptablealternativeTherecentsuccessofbeetrootinBritishcookingmustbedueatleastin

parttoitswonderfulcombinationofsweetnessandearthinessItsearthyaromacomesfromgeosminanorganiccompoundfoundinbeetsandthe

aromacomesfromgeosminanorganiccompoundfoundinbeetsandthesameionicaromayougetduringrainafteradryspellThisscentisdetectablebythehumannoseatverylowconcentrationsWalnutsareaperfectmatchfortheearthytasteofbeetroottheirbitternessbalancedbythesubtlesweetnessofthisgeosmingemMarkgrowsafascinatingparsleyandcelerycrosscalledpar-celItisso

pungentthatyouneedonlyasmallamountasanalternativetocelery

SERVES61kgbeetrootcutinto2cmdice500gonionscutinto2cmdice250gcarrotscutinto2cmdice1litrebeefstock(seehere)2tablespoonschoppedpar-cel(oruse250gceleryandahandfulofparsleystalks)

seasaltroastedcobnutoiltoserve(weuseoilfromHurstwoodFarminKentseeourlistofFriendsandSuppliersonhere)FORTHEWALNUTICECREAM

225gclottedcream75gwalnutsfinelychopped

TomakethewalnuticecreamsimplystirboththeingredientstogetherthenfreezeinaplasticboxBecauseofthehighfatcontentthecreamwillstillbesupplewhenfrozenandbeautifulscoopedswirlscanbemadebypullingaspoonoverthesurfacejustbeforeservingthesoup

Putthebeetrootonionsandcarrotsintoapanwiththebeefstockandpar-celthenaddenoughwatertocoverthevegetablesBringtotheboilcoverandsimmerfor35minutesoruntilthevegetablesaretenderbutnotfallingapartPourthecontentsintoacolandersetoverabowlandleaveuntilthoroughlydrainedTastethestockandseasonwithsalttotasteItwillbeadarkrichcolourandheavilyredonthespoonWatchyoursummerwhites

ThesoupistheliquidthatcomesfromdrainingthevegetablessoleavethistocoolandthenchillIfyouneedtochillthesoupquicklyplaceicecubesinafreezerbagsealitandfloatitintheliquidAlternativelymakethesouponthesamedayasthewalnuticecreamandchillitovernightThevegetables

thesamedayasthewalnuticecreamandchillitovernightThevegetablesthathavebeencookedinthestockcanbereservedandservedasamashonanotheroccasion(mashtherootsandonionsseasonwithsaltbutterandchoppedtarragonreheatgentlyandservewithleftoversmustardisgreattolivenituptoo)

Servethesoupchilledwithaspoonfulofthewalnuticecreamandasmatteringofrichroastedcobnutoilwhichwillshimmeronthesurfacealluringly

daggerWalnutsareoneofthemostpopularnutsinBritainhistoricalrecordsshowthatwalnuttreesweregrownintheearlymedievalperiodTheyareagluttonrsquosdelightSinceharvestswereuncertainfromoneyeartothenextitwasthoughtacceptabletoeatasmanywalnutsaspossiblewhentheharvestwasplentifulWalnutswerethoughttohelpdigestionsotheywereeatenwholeattheendofthemealOnecanimaginethatthisbeliefdespitebeingtotallyunfoundedwouldhaveencouragedpost-mealconversationwhichisprobablythereasonthetraditioncontinuedwellintothetwentiethcentury

Ewersquos-curd-stuffedCourgetteFlowerswithFennelSherbet

CourgetteflowershaveneverreallybeenpopularintheUKPaucirclahasfondmemoriesofeatingtheminquesadillasinMexicowhenshewasachildSheusedtobuythematastallonhergrandmotherrsquosstreetclosetothemarketwheretheywouldarriveeverymorningincopiousamountsaddingatouchofsunshinetoanalreadycolourfulstallShetalkedaboutthemsomuchthattheywereoneofthefirstdishesMatthewtriedwhenhetravelledtoMexicotomeetPaucirclarsquosfamilySincethenwehavewonderedwhethertheirlackofpopularityintheUKisdowntothegeneralviewthatcourgettesdonottasteofmuchatallandconsequentlythattheirflowersdonrsquoteitherTheygrowwellheresothereshouldcertainlynotbeashortageofflowersinthesummerItwouldbeanabsolutepleasureforusiftheBritishcouldadoptthecourgettefullyintotheircookingInthisdishtheflowersarebakedndashprimarilysothattheewersquoscurdmelts

becomingcreamierbutalsobecausetheytendtobealittlebitspikywhenrawNotonlydotheylookfantasticontheplatebutsurelyfewotherflowersepitomisesummersoeffectivelyWedareanyonenottothinkofsunshinewhenpresentedwithabright-yellowcourgetteflowerThefennelsherbetaddsatouchoffreshnesstobalancethemilkycobnuts

SERVES41yellowand1greencourgette8courgetteflowersstamensremoved160gfreshewersquoscurd40gfreshcobnutslightlycrushedcobnutorhazelnutoilfordrizzling

FORTHEWILDFENNELSHERBET

100gicingsugar2tspcitricacid1tspbicarbonateofsoda1tbspwildfennelseeds(orordinaryfennelseeds)

Tomakethesherbetputalltheingredientsinablenderandblitzuntilthe

Tomakethesherbetputalltheingredientsinablenderandblitzuntiltheseedsarefinelygroundthenpassthroughafinesieve(Itwillkeepinanairtightcontainerforuptoamonthandisgreatwithicecreamsandsprinkledoverotherdesserts)Heattheovento200degCGasMark6Topandtailthecourgettesthencutthemalongtheirlengthinwafer-thinslicesusingamandolineorvegetablepeelerStufftheflowerswiththeewersquoscurdTodothiswefillapipingbagwiththecurdandplacethetipofthenozzleintheflowerbeforefillingAlternativelyyoucouldjustgentlyopenuptheflowersandspooninthecurdPlacetheflowersonaroastingtrayandbakefor2ndash3minutesuntilthecheesehasmeltedandthetipsoftheleavesarebeginningtocrispalittleRemovefromtheovenandkeepwarm

Arrangethecourgetteribbonsdecorativelyon4servingplatesandplacethestuffedflowersamongstthemLightlyscatterwiththecobnutsaddadrizzleofoilandthendustwiththefennelsherbet

GlobeArtichokeswithHollandaiseSauceandSumac

TheinspirationforthisdishcomesfromPaucirclaItwasthemostrequesteddishinherMexicangrandmotherrsquosvastrepertoireandwithgoodreasonShedidnotalwayssayyestothisparticularrequestasitwastrulyalabourofloveIttooksolongtopreparethatshewouldwaitforaspecialoccasionwhensheknewmostofthefamilywouldbepresentOnlythenwouldshestartthelaborioustaskofcarefullyplacingasliceofpanelacheesebetweeneachartichokeleafTheclosershegottothecentreoftheartichoketheharderthisbecameShewouldthencoverthemwithasecretmixtureinvolvingbreadcrumbsandeggsbeforedeep-fryingTherewasatleastoneartichokeforeachmemberofthefamilyandsinceitwasnotthesmallestfamilyyoucanimaginehowlongthewholeprocesstookForPaucirclaitsymbolisescommunaleatingwithplentyofstoriesandconversationbeforeyoureachedtheartichokersquoshearteatenwithagenerousamountoffreshlysqueezedlimejuiceandwasheddownwithamezcal(forthosewhowereoldenough)GlobeartichokesaremembersofthethistlefamilyAlthoughtheyare

availableallyearroundtheyareattheirbestduringthesummerThedayMarkthegardenerhandedussomeglobeartichokesstraightfromthegardenweknewwewantedtoreplicatetheideaofcommunalartichokeeatingWecameupwithhollandaisesaucewithsumacfordippingtheleavesintoItrsquosalsoprettygoodwithananchovyandcregravemefraicircchedip(seehere)whichmakesasimpleralternativetothehollandaiseoryoucanservethembothAwordofwarningisneededherethisisnotadishforthefastidiouseater

UsingyourfingersisprettymucharequirementanditishighlylikelythatyouwillneedtolickthemattheendDonrsquotbotherwithserviettestheywillonlyhamperyourenjoymentPlacetheartichokeplatewiththebowlofhollandaiseinthecentreinthemiddleofthetableandpeelofftheouterleavesfromyourartichokeDipthemintothehollandaisesauceandsumacbeforeeatingthetenderflesharoundthebaseofeachleafPaucirclarsquosgrandmotherwouldnodoubtapprove

SERVES44largeglobeartichokesstalksremoved

HollandaiseSauce(seehere)andorAnchovyCregravemeFraicirccheDip(seehere)toservealittlesumacforsprinkling

UsingapairofscissorscutthetipofeachspikyleafofftheartichokesThesespikesarenotsuchfuntoeatPuttheartichokesinasteamerandsteamoveragentleheatfor25minutesoruntiltender

Meanwhilewhipupthehollandaisesauceortheanchovycregravemefraicircchedip(orboth)Putthemintobowlsandsprinklethehollandaisewithsumac

RemovetheartichokesfromthesteamerandserveonaplateHaveasparebowlatthesidetodiscardtheinediblepartsoftheleavesStartpeelingtheleavesawayfromtheartichokeThebaseofeachleafyieldsasmallfleshymorselDipthebaseintothesaucesandeatstraightofftheleafdiscardingtherestoftheleafEveryleafyoueatwillyieldmoreandmoreediblefleshuntilyougettotheheartoftheartichokendashundoubtedlythebestbitndashbuttakecaretoremovethehairylayeroflsquochokersquo

PeaGoatBaconandLovageBroth

Baconandpeashasbeenaclassiccombinationsincethe1600swhenaccordingtoAlanDavidsonrsquosOxfordCompaniontoFood(OxfordUniversityPress1999)theyweresoldasstreetfoodlsquohotgreypeaseandasuckofbaconrsquoThepeaswouldhavebeendriedbutwefavourfreshpeaswhicharegrownbyMarkthegardenerInsteadofordinarybaconweuseourownlsquogoatbaconrsquoorcuredgoatloinIthasrichcuminovertonesfromthesimplecureandispleasantlysaltyLovageandpeasworkwelltogetherThisisworkingfoodndashitlooksandtasteslikeadishthatshouldbeeaten

afteraharddayinthegardenThegoatbaconneedstobemadeseveraldaysbeforerequiredbutoncecureditwillkeepfortwoweeksandcanbeusedinthesamewayasordinarybaconYourbutchershouldbeabletoordergoatloinforyoubutifyoucanrsquotgetholdofitsubstituteporktenderloin

SERVES41kgunshelledfreshpeasrapeseedoil4smallredonionsor8springonionscutintoquarters1litrewhitechickenstock(seehere)abunchoflovageleavesasplashofcidervinegarifneededseasalt

FORTHEGOATBACON

2goatloinsweighing250ndash350geachsilvermembraneremoved20gfineseasalt10gdarkmuscovadosugar1tspfennelseeds2tspcorianderseeds1tbspcuminseedsfrac12tspblackpeppercorns

FirstmakethebaconTietheloinstogetherwithseverallengthsofbutcherrsquosstringatintervalsof5cmorsoPlacethesaltsugarandspicesinafoodprocessororspicegrinderandblitztoafinepowderLaytheloinsonalarge

pieceofclingfilmatleast4timesaswideastheloinsCoverwiththespicemixtureandwraptightlyintheclingfilmPlaceinalargeplasticcontainerandleaveinthefridgefor5ndash7daysturningonceadayDonotdrainoffanyliquidthatescapesduringthistime

RemovethebaconfromthefridgewashoffallthespicesunderacoldtapandpatdryonkitchenpaperHangthemeatinawarmwell-ventilatedareasuchasthekitchenoranairingcupboardfor12hoursoruntilitiscompletelydrytothetouchndashatemperatureof25degCisidealsoadjustthetimeyouhangthemeataccordinglyWhenthebaconisreadyitshouldhaveadistinctsweetgoatsmellandberichincumin

ShellthepeasensuringyouhavesomethingelsetonibbleordrinkalongsidendashotherwiseyoursquollbeluckytohaveanyleftbytheendHeatalittlerapeseedoilinasaucepanaddtheonionsandfryuntillightlycolouredUsingalargesharpknifecut15slicesfromthegoatbaconthethicknessofbaconrashersAddthemtothepanandfrytilltheytakeonsomeofthecaramelcolourfromtheonionsAddagoodsplashofthechickenstockstirringtodeglazethepanPourintheremainingstockthenaddthelovageleavesandthepeasBringtoasimmerandcookforacoupleofminutesuntilthepeasaretenderTastethebrothanddecidewhetheritrequiressaltandasplashofcidervinegarVinegarwillcutthroughthefattinessofadishandcalmanysaltinessAbigbowlofpeasforteaHappypeadaysforsure

ScallopsinPuffPastrywithVermouthandFennelCream

ThislookslikeaverysimpledishalmostasifithadjustbeenpluckedfromtheshorelineChoosethecurvedshellofthescalloptoservetheminratherthantheflatoneThepastrycoverleavesyourgueststhetaskofdiscoveringwhatyouhaveplacedbeneathSincescallopsneedverylittlecookingandtheshellsconductheatsowellalltheingredientsquicklysteamunderthepastryasitcrispsintheovenThedishcanbeassembledinadvancekeptchilledandthenfinishedin10minutes(addacoupleofminutestothecookingtimeiftheyrsquovebeenkeptinthefridge)ThesauceisbasedonasimplereductionReducingliquidbyboilingit

rapidlyforcesittoevaporatecausingittothickengraduallyThecombinationoffishstockvermouthandcreambeginsassweetandrichandendsupwithasavouryandsatiatingbitternessafterbeingreducedFennelisaningredientinsomevermouthsandhasatriedandtestedaffinitywiththebotanicalflavoursinourvermouth(seehere)Thescallopscanbeservedonfennelfrondsthosefeatheryleavesatthetopofthefennelbulb

SERVES6150mlfishstock(seehere)75mlsinglecream50mldryvermouth(forourhouseVermouthseehere)6diver-caughtscallopsincludingtheorangeroeplustheirshells1smallcarrot1smallonionfrac14smallbronzefennelbulb320gpuffpastry(forhomemadeseehere)1eggbeatenwithapinchofsalttoglazeseasaltandblackpepper

Putthefishstockinaheavy-bottomedpanplaceoverafairlyhighheatandletitboilawayvigorouslyuntilreducedbyhalfitsvolumeAddthecreamandvermouthandcontinuetoboiluntilthesaucehasthickenedandreducedbyhalfagainTasteandaddsaltifneededthenremovefromtheheatand

leavetocool

Sliceeachscallophorizontallyinto3iftheyarethickenoughtodosoorinhalfiftheyarealittlesmallerCutthecarrotintomatchstick-sizedpiecesandfinelydicetheonionCutthefennelbulbquarterintoveryfineslicesAddalayerofeachvegetabletoeachcurvedscallopshellandplacethescallopslicesontopPouracoupleoftablespoonsofthesauceovereachscallopandcracksomeblackpepperoverthem

Rolloutthepastryonalightlyflouredworktopto2ndash3mmthickCutitinto6squareslargeenoughtocoverthescallopshellsPressthepastryontotheedgeofeachshellworkingrounditwithyourthumbsothesharpshellcutsthroughtrimmingofftheexcessThiswillsealtheedgesatthesametimeCoverwithclingfilmandchilluntilneeded

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6Brushthepastrywiththebeateneggandplacetheshellsintheovenfor8minutesoruntilthepastryislightlycoloured

PickledPollackwithFlame-roastedPeppersCucumberPulBiberChilliandWaterMint

PollackmakesasuperbsustainablealternativetoitscloserelativescodandhaddockwhichhavebecomeoverfishedalmosttothepointofextinctioninsomepartsoftheworldItsflakytextureisverysimilartothatofthebetter-knownwhitefishyetithassufferedabadreputationinthepastandhasbeencriticisedforbeingtastelessEventheillustriousJaneGrigsoninherbookFishCookery(MichaelJosephLtd1973)relegatedittothequalityofaMondayfishratherthanaFridayoneWecouldnotdisagreemoreTheearthinessoftheroastedpeppersperfectlycomplementstheacidityinthepickledfishwiththecucumberandmintaddingatouchoffreshnessThedishisfinishedwithascatteringofpulbiberchilliAlsoknownasAleppopepperthisisafruitymedium-hotchilliwithcuminovertonesasaltytasteandanoilyfinishItmarrieswiththemintexceptionallywellScallopsmakeagreatalternativetopollackinthisrecipe

SERVES4650ndash750gpollackfillet4tbspcoarseseasalt2redpeppers1cucumberahandfulofwatermint(orgardenmint)100glandcressorwatercressjuiceof4limesmixedwithequalpartsofcidervinegarafewpulbiber(Aleppo)chilliflakes

ThefirstjobistocurethefishbysaltingitndashthisdrawssomeofthewaterfromitScatterthecoarsesaltoveraplasticorwoodentrayandplacethefishonitskin-sideupCoverwithclingfilmandplaceinthefridgefor1frac12hoursnomoreInthemeantimeflame-roastthepeppers(seehere)andslicethemintostripsSlicethecucumberintolongstripsbypullingavegetablepeelerdownitslengthandwashandpatdrythemintandcress

RemovethefishfilletfromthefridgerinseoffanyresidualsaltandpatdrywithkitchenpaperItwillhavefirmedupnicelymakingthenextstepeasier

withkitchenpaperItwillhavefirmedupnicelymakingthenextstepeasierwhileseasoningatthesametimeWithasharpknifecuttingawayfromyouatanangleslicethinstripsoffishfromtheskinandplacetheminthelimejuiceandvinegarmixtureTheacidwilleffectivelylsquocookrsquothefishbyloweringitspHlevelThisforcescoagulationinthesamewayheatdoesbutmoreslowlyFinelyslicedasitisthefishwillneedamaximumof20minutesforthistohappenYouwillseeitturnwhiteassoonasitlandsintheliquid

ArrangethewatercresscucumberslicesofpepperandmintontheplatesPlacethepollackslicesamongsttheleavesanddustwithafewpulbiberflakes

DorsetBlueVinnyandFlame-roastedPepperswithCharredLittleGem

ThissaladissimplesummerfoodanddeservestobecookedandassembledinallitspartsoutsideFlame-roastingisourfavouritewayofcookingpeppersThesmokeimpartsadepthofflavourthatactsasagreatcontrasttotheirinherentsweetnessWeliketocookthemonabarbecuewhenthefirehasdiedawayandthecoalsaresearinglyhotThepeppersarelaidinaspiralformationdirectlyonthecoalsandturnedoverinorderastheirskinsturntoslateblackLeavingthemonthebarbecuefortoolongwillmakepeelingthecharredskinverydifficultsoanattentiveeyeisneededWeoftencookauberginesinthesamewayonthebarbecueoragashob

OncetheskinshaveblackenedmakesurethatyoudonotloseanyofthepreciousjuicethatiscontainedwithinthefruitIthasaflavourthatmustbeexperiencedWelikecorianderseedsherefortheirgentlegrassyorange-likeflavour

aswellasalittlegroundcorianderWealsodropafewcorianderflowersintothesaladTheirflavourismilderthancorianderleavesandatfirstglancetheyresemblecowparsleyDorsetBlueVinnyisastapleinourkitchenApieceontheripersideisblendedwithcregravemefraicircchetomakeasauce

SERVES4ASAMAINCOURSE6ndash8ASASTARTER2Romeropeppers200ndash250gnewpotatoescutinto1cmpieces6ndash8LittleGemlettucesvegetableorrapeseedoilforbrushing300gmixedlettuceleavesTheEthicureanSaladDressing(seehere)6ndash8corianderflowerheadsgroundcorianderfordusting2tspcorianderseedslightlycrushed

FORTHEDORSETBLUEVINNYSAUCE

50gDorsetBlueVinnyroughlychopped

50gDorsetBlueVinnyroughlychopped150mlcregravemefraicirccheseasalt

BeginbyroastingthepepperseitheronabarbecueasdescribedaboveoronagashobasfollowsturnagasringonfullplacethepeppersdirectlyontheflameandleaveuntiltheskinbeginstoblisterandblackenUsingmetaltongsturnthepeppersandrepeatontheothersideItispossibletoovercookthepeppersbythismethodsocareisneededtoensurethatonlytheskinisincontactwiththeflame(IfyoudonothaveagashobthencutthepeppersverticallyinhalfandremovetheirseedsLightlyoiltheskinandplaceunderahotgrilluntiltheskinblistersandblackens)Assoonasthepeppersareblackenedalloverplaceinasmallbowlcoverwithclingfilmandleavefor20minutes

Meanwhilecookthepotatoesinboilingsaltedwaterforabout12minutesuntilaknifetippassesthroughthepotatowithlittleresistanceDrainandleavetocool

PuttheDorsetBlueVinnyandcregravemefraicirccheinablenderorfoodprocessorandblitzuntilsmoothSeasonwithsalttotasteIfthecheeseistoostrongforyourlikingsimplylengthenitwithalittlemorecregravemefraicircche

WithalightlydampenedclothorhandtowelrubthepepperstoremovetheblackenedskinSplittheminhalfandremovetheseedsTearthepeppersverticallyalongtheirnaturallsquograinrsquointostripsabout5ndash10mmthickandsetaside

PlaceagriddlepanoverahighheatLightlybrushtheoutsideofeachLittleGemlettucewithrapeseedorvegetableoilPutthemonthegriddlepanandleaveundisturbeduntiltherearecharredlinesunderneathTurnandrepeatonallsidesuntiltheleavesarecolouredandtenderAvoidovercookingthemwhichwouldresultintoodarkacolourandacrisptextureSetasideinawarmplace

PutthecharredLittleGemonservingplatesamongstthemixedleavesScatterthepotatoesaroundandlightlydresstheleaveswiththesaladdressingDotthepepperstripsthroughouttheleavesandadddropsoftheBlueVinnydressingSeparatethecorianderheadsintosmallerflowersand

usetogarnishthesaladDustwithgroundcorianderandafewcrushedcorianderseeds

JohnDorywithMorelMushroomsFlatBeansHaricotBeansandHamHockStock

MorelmushroomshaveanaturalaffinitywithfishandmakeaparticularlyfinecompaniontoJohnDoryJackcanrememberpreppingthisfishduringhisfirstjobasakitchenporterThespinesweresharpbutthecookedfishwasarevelationAlittlefishmongeringisrequiredherendashitrsquosnotatallcomplicatedifyou

wanttogiveitagoyourselfThefilletsonJohnDoryareconnectedonlylightlyandcanalmostbeprisedfreewiththumbsaloneoncethespineisremovedwithscissorsTheoutsideofthefishshowsadistinctarcedlinethatsweepsinagentlelsquosrsquoThisiswherethespinerunsandisakeyidentifierinunderstandingitssimpleyetbeautifulanatomyIfyouarenewtofilletingjusttakeyourtimeanduseyourfingerstofeelaroundthebonesasyougoAknifeshouldonlyreallybeneededtocoaxthefilletsfreeinsomeplacesBythetimeyouhaveextractedthefourfilletsyouwillwellandtrulyunderstandtheprocessJohnDoryisoneofthefirstfishwelettheyoungrsquounsprepareattherestaurantWeonlygivethemonewarningonanykindoffishdonrsquotrubyourhandupwardsfromtailtoheadastheyarealwaysspikythiswayTherehaveneverbeenanycomplicationsandallcomeawaybeamingathavingmasteredanewskillSomefishhavedelicateskinswhichmakeverygoodeatingJohnDory

skinisoneofourfavouritesThesecrettoensuringitiscrispanddeliciousistomakesureitisverydrybeforecookingRemovethefishfilletsfromthefridgeandplacethemflesh-sidedownonaboardRunaknifesidewaysovertheskinlikeasqueegeeonawindowandasurprisingamountofliquidwillbefreedPatthisawaywithkitchenpaperandthefishwillbereadytocookHamandharicotbeanisaclassicpairingPulsescanbecookedwitha

pigrsquostrotterwhichaddsglossandsheenfromthegelatineinthebonesInthisrecipeweusehamhockstocktodothesamejob

SERVES4300gharicotbeanssoakedin2changesofcoldwaterfor12ndash24hoursthendrained

5gdriedmorelmushroomscidervinegar

cidervinegarabout400mlhamhockbroth(seehere)abunchofflat-leafparsleyorlovage200gflatbeans(alsoknownasheldabeans)trimmedandcutintobite-sizedchunks

rapeseedoil2JohnDoryweighing500ndash750geachfilleted(askyourfishmongertodothisifyouprefer)

flakyseasalt

CoverthesoakedbeanswithfreshwaterandbringtotheboilReducetheheatandsimmerfor35minutesuntiljustcookedbutstillwithalittlebiteDrainandsetaside

Coverthemushroomswithhotwateraddasplashofcidervinegarandleavethemtosoftenfor20minutesMorelsaretypicallyfoundonsandysoilandhavemyriadcavitiesinwhichthiscangettrappedGentlymassagethesoftenedmushroomstohelpfreeanysandorgritwhichwillsinktothebottomofthewaterOncethemorelsarecleanpourthevaluableearthyliquidintoacupdiscardingthesandydregsSlicethemushrooms

PutthedrainedbeansinasaucepanthenaddthemushroomsoakingliquidandenoughhamhockbrothtocoverthemjustbarelyAddtheslicedmorelsacoupleofstalksfromtheparsleyorlovageandtheflatbeansandbringtoasimmerCookstirringoccasionallyuntilthestockhasreducedenoughtocoatthebeansRemovefromtheheatseasonandcoverwithalid

Placealargeheavy-basednon-stickfryingpanoveramediumheatandletitheatupAddenoughrapeseedoiltocreatealargepuddleItmightsmokelightlyasitheatsthisisagoodindicatorthatitisreadytocookinSprinkleflakysaltontheskinsideofthefishandlaythefilletsskin-sidedownintheoilIfyoucanfitonly2filletsinthepancookthemin2batchesastheskinwonrsquotcrispifthepaniscrowdedIfyouhavesomesmallramekinsplaceoneonthemiddleofeachfillettoholditflatResisttheurgetomovethefilletsinthepanAfter3ndash4minutesthefishshouldhaveturnedwhitearoundtheedgesandthroughtothetopexposedfleshTheextremeedgeswillalsobegintobrownalittleOncethebandofwhiteattheedgeofthefishhas

begintobrownalittleOncethebandofwhiteattheedgeofthefishhasworked1ndash2cminwardsthenyoucanliftthefishslightlywithafishsliceandpeerunderneaththeskinshouldbealightcaramelcolourTurnthefilletsoverandremovethepanfromtheheatTheresidualheatwillbemorethansufficienttocooktheothersidewithinaminuteortwo

Servethefishalongsidethecookedbeanswithchoppedflat-leafparsleyorlovage

daggerJohnDoryisbesteatenwhensummerdrawstoacloseasJunetoAugustisthebreedingseasonIthasalargeeye-likepatchonitsflankthatconfusesbothpredatorsandpreytheformerfearingalargerfishandthelattermistakingitforamouthApopularlegendisthatthemarkonaJohnDoryisthethumbprintofStPeterthekeeperofthegatesofheavenThoughcoveredinspinesandyieldingaprehistoric-lookingflatbodyJohnDoryisafearfullytastynativefish

MusselsinCiderwithTarragon

MusselsareoneofourfavouriteshellfishWearetrulyaddictedtothemandfeelyoucanneverhaveenoughItisperhapswithoutmuchobjectivitythereforethatwewouldclaimtheyareoneofthemostoutstandingfoodstobefoundintheBritishIslesWehaveintroducedaWestCountrytwisttothisclassicrecipewiththe

additionofamedium-drylocalcidercalledPerryrsquosDabinettbutanygoodmedium-drycidercanbesubstitutedRatherthanusingfishstockweoptforthedeeplyrichandmeatypressure-cookedchickenstockthatisanessentialpartofourkitchenroutine(seehere)ChickenandciderhaveagreataffinitywitheachotherandyouwillsoonseewhythecombinationworkssowellinthisdishThelsquobridgingrsquoflavouristhetarragonIfyoudonrsquothaveanyyoucansubstitutestaranise

SERVES2(OR4ASASTARTER)1ndash15kglivemusselsrapeseedoil3shallotsslicedintohalfmoons1garlicclovecrushedunderaknifeandthenfinelysliced250mlmedium-drycider250mlbrownchickenstock(seehere)100mldoublecream4sprigsoftarragonseasaltsourdoughbreadtoserve

ItisimportanttocleanthemusselsandcheckthattheyarealivebeforecookingRinsethemundercoldwaterandremovetheirlsquobeardsrsquobypullingthemawayInevitablyafewmusselswillbeslightlyopenTapthemquitehardseveraltimesontheworksurfaceIfafteraminuteorsothemusselclosesthenyouknowitisaliveAnymusselsthatdonotcloseshouldbediscarded

HeatasplashofrapeseedoilinalargepanaddtheshallotsandgarlicandfryoveramediumheatuntilsoftenedbutnotbrownedAddtheciderchicken

overamediumheatuntilsoftenedbutnotbrownedAddtheciderchickenstockandcreamandturntheheatuphighwiththelidonOncetheliquidhascometoarapidboilandthereisplentyofsteamaddthemusselstothepanStironcecoverthepanagainandcookfor2ndash3minutesuntilthemusselsopenAddthetarragonsprigsandstirthemusselstocheckthatthemajorityhaveopenedAnythatdonrsquotopenshouldbediscardedItisfareasiertoovercookmusselsthanitistoundercookthemsoresisttheurgetocontinueanylonger

Withaslottedspoondividethemusselsbetween2servingbowlsthentastethecookingliquidandaddsaltifneededitwillprobablyalreadybesaltyfromthemusselsLadletheliquoroverthemusselsandgetamongstthemprontoAnemptymusselshellmakesaperfectsetoftweezersforremovingtheremainingmusselsfromtheirshellsanddecentsourdoughbreadwillthirstilymopupthelastdropsoftheliquor

SteamedMegrimSolewithRockSamphireandSumac-braisedFennel

RocksamphirehascomplexcitrusnoteshintsofeucalyptusandadelicatelingeringbitternessthatpairswellwithfishWeforagerocksamphirefromthelocalcoastline

SERVES260gbutteratroomtemperatureplusanextraknob1tbspchoppedmixedflat-leafparsleythymeandmint2tbspsumac4tbspcidervinegar2fennelbulbsrapeseedoil2carrots1megrimsoleweighing750gndash1kg(or1witchor2dabs)200grocksamphireormarshsamphireaglassofwhitewineseasaltandblackpeppercrustybreadtoserve

Beatthe60gbutterwiththeparsleythymeandmintthenchillBringthesumacandcidervinegartoasimmerinasmallsaucepanthenstrainandreservetheliquid

LightlytrimthetopandbottomofthefennelbulbsCuteachoneverticallyintoquartersthecorewillholdeachpiecetogetherinsegmentsHeattheknobofbutterinapanwithasplashofrapeseedoilAddthefennelandcookoveramedium-highheatfor5ndash6minutesoneachsideuntilbrownedandlightlycaramelisedAddsomesaltandthesumacvinegarwhichshouldroughlycoverthebaseofthepanCoverandcookgentlyfor20ndash25minutesthefennelshouldstillofferalittleresistancetothetipofasharpknifeWhenitiscookedwiththefishlateritwillbecomeverytender

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6Slicethecarrotsasfinelyasyoucan

downtheirlengthIfyoudonrsquothaveamandolineay-shapedvegetablepeelerwillmakeperfectstripstoo

Placealengthofthickfoil2frac12timesthelengthofthefishonaworksurfacePutthecookedfenneltowardsoneendofthefoilandrestthefishonitScatterthesamphireandcarrotsontopofthefishandseasonwithsaltandpepperPulltheedgesofthefoiluparoundthefishandthenpourinthewineCoverthefishwiththeotherendofthefoilandfoldtheedgesintosealittightPlaceonabakingsheetintheovenandbakefor12ndash16minutesuntilthefleshcomesawayfromthespineeasilywhenaknifeisinsertedneartheboneItcouldalsobecookedonabarbecuewithalidastheglassofwinesteamsthefishprettyquicklyThetimingwillbesimilarbutwilldependontheheatofthebarbecue

DropthechilledherbedbutterontothefishpriortoservingThisdishrarelymakesitoutofthefoilatourplacesojustneedsawarmplatetocarryittothetableEatwithcrustybreadtomopupthelastofthejuiceswhichareimpossibletoresist

SALTANDVINEGARPICKLING

SaltandvinegarpreservationisagreatwayofstoringforagedorgardensummerfoodsWhenusedasgarnishesandingredientsinthewintertheywilladdmuchtotheplateduringaseasonwherelessgrows1CalculatingyieldandnumberofjarsWashalltheforagedorgardenvegetablesthoroughlyinacoupleofchangesofcoldwaterWeighthevegetablesandmakeanoteofthequantityPlaceanemptysterilisedjaronthescalesandsetthemtozero(orlsquotarersquo)PackthevegetablesintothejarpressingdownwellandnotedowntheweightDividethetotalweightofthevegetablesbytheweightofthevegetablesinthejar(Soifyouhave130ginthejarand1300gtotalvegetablesyouwillget1300130=10jars)2CalculatingquantitiesofvinegarandsaltPlaceapanonthescalesandsetthemtozero(orlsquotarersquo)Addenoughpicklingorcidervinegartothejartocoverthevegetablesby1cmdepthPouroffthevinegarintothesaucepananddecantthevegetablesintoaseparatebowlMultiplytheweightofvinegarbythenumberofjarsyouhavelinedupandfillthepanwiththisamountofvinegarYouthenneedtoaddtenpercentsalt(Sofor1100gvinegaryouneed110gsalt)3SterilisingUsejarsthathavelidsthatwillsealwelljarsthathaverubberseals(egKilnerjars)arebest(removethesealsbeforeplacingintheOven)Preheattheovento140degCGasMark1WashthejarsinhotsoapywateranddrainwellPlaceonabakingtrayintheovenTheyneedatleast20minutesbutcanstayintheovenuntilneededastheyshouldbehotwhenthecontentsareaddedtopreventtheglasscracking4CookingtheingredientsThismethodisidealforfineorfinelyslicedingredientssuchascourgettessamphireandelderberries

courgettessamphireandelderberriesBringthevinegartotheboilandaddyourchosenspicemix

LowerthevegetablesintothebubblingliquidTheboilingwilllikelystopMaintainthehighheatandwatchfortheliquidtoreturntoarapidboilScoopoutthevegetablesandaddthemtothehotsterilisedjarsContinueuntilallthejarsarefilledthenpourthehotvinegarandspicesintoeachjarcoveringby1cmdepthWithteatowelinhandclosethejarsfirmly(havingreplacedtherubbersealsifusing)andturnthejarsupsidedown

Pickledrocksamphire

PERLITREOFCIDERORPICKLINGVINEGAR

100gseasalt1tablespooncorianderseed1tbspblackpeppercorns8staranise16allspiceberries8freshbayleavesfreshrocksamphire(seehere)

Frythespices(exceptthebayleaves)inalargefryingpanoveramediumheatuntiltheystarttoreleasetheiraromasAddtotheboilingvinegarmixfollowedbythesamphireandfollowtheinstructionsinstep4above

WaterBuffaloFilletwithClearChickenStockTarragonandSalt-bakedBabyBeets

ThechickenstockforthisdishneedsfreezingandthendefrostingthroughalayerofmuslintoclarifyitItwillhavegoldenhuesandbeasbrilliantandclearasbrandywiththismethodItisasomewhatlavishtechniquegiventhereductioninvolumethatoccursbutforaspecialoccasionsuchasasteakwethinkitisworthitThechickenandtarragonpairingistrulyawell-testedoneandthetarragonmakesagreatbridgeforthedelicatebeef-likefilletofbuffaloFormoreoncookingsteaksseehere

SERVES41litrebrownchickenstock(seehere)1kgbabybeetrootswiththeirleafytopsstillattached100grocksaltabunchoftarragon4waterbuffalofilletsteaks25cmthick(seehere)rapeseedoilseasalt

Freezethestockthenturnitoutofitscontainerandwrapitin2layersofmuslinPlaceinasievesetoverabowlthenputinthefridgeThegelatineimpuritiesandfatwillstaysolidinthemuslinatfridgetemperaturewhilethestockwillrunclearbelowResisttheurgetosqueezethemuslinitwilldraindryeventuallyThistechniqueyieldsabouthalftheinitialfrozenweightofstockinfinishedclarifiedstock

Heattheovento180degCGasMark4WashthebabybeetsandscrubthemwellTheywillprobablybeprettycleanatthisyoungagebutbemindfulofsoilresidueSpreadthesaltonabakingtrayandplacethebeetsontopWrapthetrayinfoilsealingitwellandbakefor1houroruntilthebeetsaretenderThesaltwilldrawoutmoistureandseasonthebeetsperfectly

About15minutesbeforethebeetsarecookedheattheclarifiedchickenstockinapanthentasteandseasonwithsaltifrequiredNowisagoodtimetogetyoursteakpansmokinghot

togetyoursteakpansmokinghot

BrushthesteaksverylightlywithrapeseedoilSeasonthemwithsaltbutnotpepperasitwillburnPutthesteaksinthepreheatedpanandleaveoverahighheatturningthemwithalongpairoftongsevery15ndash20secondsIfyouarecooking4filletsthiswillrequirestandingatthestoveturningtheminrotationduringthefewminutesneededtocookthemPeriodicallypresseachsteaktogaugehowwellcookedtheyareandwhenyoufeelyouhavethemspotonremovetoawarmplateLeavethemtorestsomewherewarmfor10minutesnolessThiswillallowthemtorelaxandreabsorbsomeofthejuicethatcomesfromthemInthistimedividethechickenstockbetween4deepplatesfinishingwithfreshtarragonsprigsFillasidebowlwiththebeetswhicharetobeeatenunceremoniouslywithyourfingersLayasteakoneachplateJobdone

WATERBUFFALO

WebuyourwaterbuffalomeatfromLowerOakleyFarmnearYeovilinSomersetTonyandJaneCoupekeepaherdof250ofthesedocilebeastsalldescendedfromAsianwaterbuffaloThecalvesstaywiththeirmothersforfivetosixmonthsthenafterweaningtheyeatnothingbutgrassandinwintersilagefromthefarmTheyareslaughteredat22ndash30monthsandthemeatishungforaminimumof21daysThereisverylittlemarblinginthemeatasmostofthefatisontheoutsideoftheanimalandaroundtheribsWaterbuffalomeathashighlevelsofomega-3fattyacidsandironandisregardedasanall-roundhealthyalternativetobeef

COOKINGSTEAK

WhencookingsteakthereareafewrulestoobserveAlwaysbringthesteaktoroomtemperatureforanhourbeforeithitsthepanasthiswillensureitcooksevenlySaltistheonlyseasoningtobeaddedbutnotfarinadvanceofcookingotherwiseitwilldrawmoisturefromthesteakTheheavierandthickerthepanthebettertheheatwillbedistributedcast-ironpansareidealThetemperatureofthepanisthenextthingtoconsiderItneedstobeveryhotsoputitontheheatandleaveuntilitissohotyoucannotholdyourhandaninchabovethenear-glowingsurfaceTocheckwhetherasteakisdonetoyourlikingpressitwith

yourthumbandgaugethepressurerequiredtodosoRaresteakwillfeelassoftasthefleshofyourcheekoveryourmolarsmediumwillbemorelikethefleshatthetopofyourcheekonyoureyesocketwhichismarginallyfirmerShouldyougetaskedtocookasteaklsquowelldonersquoandyoucanrsquotconvinceyourguestthatlsquomediumrsquowillbeperfectandtenderwithnohintsofredbloodnormallyassociatedwithafour-day-agedcutthenhereishowpressyourforeheadndashprettyfirmcomparedtoyourcheekandagoodwaytoconfirmthatasteakisovercookedthroughoutPainfultoseethatinthekitchenweknow

BarbecuedHorseMackerelwithCobnutSalbitxadaSauce

SinceweprideourselvesonhavingadirectrelationshipwiththeprocessofgrowingwemustadmitthatwearealittlejealousoftheCatalanwintercelebrationforcalcotsCalcotsaresuperbsweetonionsthatareforcedtogrowtallandpalebygraduallybuildingsoiluparoundthemWeknowouronionsandthisoneisacorkerAttentivegardeningisrewardedwiththecalcotadafestivalinJanuarywhentenderstemsarewrappedinnewspaperandthrownontohotcoalstilltheyarecharredTheblackenedskinsarepeeledawayanddippedinsalbitxadaaroastedpeppersaucethatisacachetofculinarybrillianceItisatitsbestwhenmadewithfreshalmondswhicharedelicatelycrispandeversoslightlymilkyndashqualitiesthatournativefreshcobnutsandhazelsshareGiventheabundanceofthesenutsinAugustweneededarecipeforthembeforetheyweresnaffledbythesquirrelsSalbitxadasauceprovedperfectusingupglutsofpeppersandtomatoesandanystalebreadInSpainsherryvinegarisusedbutexcellentvintagecidervinegariswhatwehavehereandithasequalvalueinoureyesWedecidedtocomeupwithourowneventforthesummermonths

whenheritagetomatoesareattheirpeakfourtypesofcobnutaredroppingfromthetreesandthebabyleeksarenighonimpossibletopriseoutofthegardenerrsquoshandsunlessthewordlsquociderrsquoismentionedThisisagreatcelebrationofallthehardworkthathasgoneintothegardenYouwillneedatleasttwogoodbagsofcharcoalplussomeonewhousedtobeascoutwhowillknowwhenthecharcoalisjustrighttocookonOhandiceinyourciderDeadposhWehaveusedhorsemackerelherebutherringsardinesorpilchardsline-

caughtseabassseabreamandblackbreamgreyorredmulletandpollackareallidealforcookingwholeovercoalsandwilllovethesalbitxadapairing

PERPERSON

1corncob4ndash5babyleeks1horsemackerelweighing400ndash500gcleanedalittlerapeseedoilabunchofsummersavory(orthymeorlemonthyme)

abunchofsummersavory(orthymeorlemonthyme)seasalt

FORTHECOBNUTSALBITXADASAUCE(ENOUGHFOR8)1moritachilli(orchipotlechilli)vintagecidervinegar5garliccloves500gheritagetomatoes150gstalesourdoughbreadcutintocubes4Romanopeppersflame-roasted(seehere)1tspsalt1tspsmokedpaprika100gshelledcobnutsfinelychoppedabout4tbsprapeseedoil

FirstmakethesauceTorehydratethechilliputitinasmallcupofboilingwaterwithatablespoonofcidervinegarmixedinandleavefor10minutes

Heattheovento180degCGasMark4WrapthegarlicclovesinfoilandplacethemonabakingsheetalongsidethetomatoesRoastintheovenfor25minutesuntilbothgarlicandtomatoesareverysoftPutthecubesofbreadonabakingsheetandtoastintheovenfor4minutesoruntilgoldenalloverSetthebreadtomatoesandgarlicasidetocoolthenpeeltheroastedtomatoesandgarlicbysqueezingthemfreeoftheirskinsReservealltheliquidandplaceitalongwiththetomatoesandgarlicpulpinablenderwiththepeppersDrainandchopthechilliandaddthatalongwiththesaltandsmokedpaprikaSplashenoughcidervinegaroverthebreadcubestosoftenthemDonrsquotbeshywiththevinegarasitisintegraltothetasteofthefinisheddishAddthebreadandcobnutstotheblenderturnitonandthenaddtherapeseedoilinaslowstreamtillthemixtureisliquidenoughtoblendTasteandchecktheseasoningAlthoughthiscanbemadeinadvanceyouwillhavetotrytoresisteatingitallbeforethebarbecue

GetyourbarbecuegoodandhotThecorncobsneeda30-minutedunkingincoldwaterstillintheirhusksbeforecookingThiswillmoistentheouterlayersenoughtoprotectthemfromthedirectheatofthecoalswhilesimultaneouslyaddingalittlemoistureinternallytohelpthesteaming

simultaneouslyaddingalittlemoistureinternallytohelpthesteamingprocessPlacethecobsdirectlyonthecoalsstillintheirhusksandcookforroughly15minutesturningevery5minutesuntiltenderWrapeachpersonrsquosportionofleeksin2or3layersofdampenednewspaperthensetthemdirectlyonthewhite-hotcoalsTheyarecookedperfectlywhenthepaperisentirelyblackenedandalmostburnedawayThecharredoutersandsteamedmiddlesareeversomoreish

BrushthefishwithalittleoilseasonwithsaltandstuffthecavitywiththeherbsCookonthebarbecuegrillturningonce(alternativelywrapinfoilandplacedirectlyonthecoalsfor5minutesperside)Thefishonthegrillcanbeconsideredcookedwhentheskiniscrispedalloverandthefleshcomesawayfromthespineeasily

HORSEMACKEREL

WediscoveredhorsemackerelwhenonedayitwasallthatwasavailablefromtheboatthatsuppliesusItturnsoutthathorse

mackerelarebright-eyedandgreatservedhotTheseshinylsquoscadrsquocanbefoundnativelyinthesummernotfarfromCornwallandareagreatalternativetocommonmackerelEversoslightlylessoilythanmackerelandgoodforroastingovercoalswestuffthebellywiththepepperymarjoram-likeherbsummersavoury

MixedwithvinegarsummersavourycanhavethesameapplicationasmintsauceSufficetosaywemakealittleofthisto

drizzleoverthefinishedcharcoaledfish

CURING

Saltingfoodorlsquocuringrsquowasamethoddevelopedtopreservefoodbringingdownawholeanimalmeantmoremeatthanthehunter-gatherercouldeatbeforeitwentbadItisbelievedthatdryingmeatwasoneofthefirstexperimentswithpreservationevenpredatingsaltingPeoplewouldleavemeatinthehotsuntodryoutorbuildasmallfireandplacethemeatoveritAlongthewaysomebodyfoundthatsaltingmeatofferedachemicalmeansofachievingthesameresultSaltingwasthencombinedwithsmokingtoachievealongerperiodwhenmeatwassafefromspoilageThesedaystheneedforpreservationhasbeensurpassedby

peoplersquostasteforcuredmeatCuredmeatspossessauniquetextureandintenseflavourbaconisprobablythemostobviousexampleofthisCuringisasimilarconcepttobriningbuthasadifferent

outcomeBrininggenerallyspeakinguseslowpercentagesofsaltinaliquidsolutiontobreakdownfilamentswithinthemuscleresultinginthemuscletakingonandholdingliquidduringthecookingprocessCuringontheotherhandcanbedoneeitherinliquidusingamuchhigherpercentageofsaltorwithadrysaltorspicerubCuringmeatdrawsmoistureoutcausingthemeattoundergo

apermanenttransformationintextureandflavourtheproductbecomesmoreconcentratedachievingamoreintenseflavourAndwhilethemoistureisbeingdrawnoutofthemeatthemeatcantakeonexternalflavoursThisopensupaworldofpossibilityforthecooktobecreativeYoucanaddspicesandherbstothesaltthenblitzitinafoodprocessorThisiswhatwedowhenwedowhenwecureourroeloin(seehere)andthegoatlointomakeourlsquogoatbaconrsquo(seehere)OurgoatbaconisoftenpilferedbythechefwhorsquoscookingonthestoveNeedlesstosaywersquove

almostalwaysgotgoatloincuringinthefridgeinafruitlessbattleagainsttheconstantsnarfingofourfreshculinarycreationTherearemanyvariableswhenitcomestocuringandyou

canbeascreativeandexperimentalasyoulikeAnyrecipesforwhichweusecuringincludethecuremixandtimeHoweverdoexperimentwiththetimethatthemeatisinthecurethetypesofspicesandherbsusedasthesewillallresultindifferentoutcomesAdoptaquestioningattitudeandseekoutanswersforyourself

FennelandSumacGravadTrout

ThisisourversionofthetraditionalScandinaviandishgravadlaxwhichtranslatesaslsquoburiedsalmonrsquondashanindicationofthewayitusedtobepreparedByburyingfishinaholeinthegroundinlayersitwaspreservedinanairtightspaceandlefttofermentTheadditionofsaltcamelateronwhenitbecamemorereadilyavailableOncethefishwasdugoutitmusthavebeenpungenttosaytheleastbutthebeautyofthismethodwasthatitallowedpeopletoeatfishevenwhenthefreshsupplieswerelonggoneHumaningenuityledtotheadditionofherbstomakeitmorepalatableandthecuringtimewasshortenedThecureinjectssomepungentflavourstobalanceoutthesubtletyinherentinfishHeretheaniseednotesinthefennelpairwellwiththecitrustonesofsumac

SERVES4ndash61ndash12kgfreshrainbowtroutfilleted

FORTHECURE

40gfineseasalt70gcastersugar2tspfennelseeds2tspsumac1tspcorianderseeds

frac12tspblackpeppercorns

PlacealltheingredientsforthecureinablenderorfoodprocessorandblitzuntilthespicesarefinelygroundSetaside

CheckthatnopinbonesremaininthetroutfilletsCutsomealuminiumfoilroughly4timesthewidthofatroutfilletand1frac12timesthelengthUseroughlyaquarterofthecuremixtomakeabedinthecentreofthefoilthesamelengthandheightasatroutfilletPlaceonefilletskin-sidedownontopSpreadtwo-thirdsoftheremainingcureoverthefishthenlaythesecondfilletontopofthefirstflesh-to-fleshSpreadtheremainingcureontop

BringthebottomhalfofthefoilupandthetophalfofthefoiloverthetroutsothattheyareedgetoedgeFoldthebottomfoiloverthetoptocreatea1cmpleatKeepfoldingthispleatoveritselfuntilthefoilisflushwiththetroutRepeatthesameprocessontheleftandrightsidesofthefoil

Placethetroutonatrayandweightitdownwithawoodenboardoracoupleofgood-sizedplatesLeaveinthefridgefor6daysLiquidwillbereleasedfromthefishbutavoidthetemptationtodrainitoffThishighlysalineliquidwillcontinuetocurethetrout

After6daysremovethefishfromthefoilparcelandrinseitunderacoldtapPatthefishdrywithkitchenpaperandleaveuncoveredinthefridgeforacoupleofhoursuntilcompletelydryPlaceonaboardandfinelyslicethefleshofftheskinatanangleusingaverysharpknife

ThetroutcanbeservedwithPickledPollack(seehere)orSpeltSodaBread(seehere)andCobnutSalbitxadaSauce(seehere)

WhiteRaspberryLoganberryandEwersquosYoghurtTerrinewithSweetCicelyConfit

Thisdessertusessomelesser-knownberrieswhichgroweasilyinBritishsoilWhiteraspberriesarenotthoughttobenativetoBritainbutthebushesattheWalledGardenseemtothriveandweobtainplentyoffruitChildren

attheWalledGardenseemtothriveandweobtainplentyoffruitChildrenseemtolikethemfindingtheircolourorlackofitratherintriguingTheyareverysweetwithlittleornoacidityandarebestusedindisheswheretheirsubtleflavourisnotoverpoweredLoganberriesaresurprisinglydifficulttofindAnineteenth-century

hybridbetweenablackberryandaraspberrytheylooklikeelongatedraspberriesacquiringadeeppurplish-redcolourwhenripeTheyareonthetangysideandbenefitfromtheadditionofsugarwhenusedincookingYoucouldalsoservethisterrinewithtwosimplecompotesofloganberries

andraspberriesasshowninthephoto

SERVES8ndash10500gwhiteraspberries(orordinaryraspberriesifunavailable)500gloganberries20ggelatineleaves240gfructose(fruitsugar)150gewersquosyoghurt100gdoublecream50gcastersugar1vanillapodmintleaves(optional)togarnish

FORTHEMACERATEDLOGANBERRIES

100gloganberries150mlcidervinegar250gcastersugar

FORTHESWEETCICELYCONFIT(OPTIONAL)

100gcastersugar100mlwhitewine20gsweetcicelystalksfinelysliced

FirstpreparethemaceratedloganberriesPuttheberriesinabowlpouroverjustenoughcidervinegartocoverthenleaveinthefridgeovernightThefollowingdaydrainreservingthevinegarAddthecastersugartothevinegarandstirtodissolvePourtheliquidbackovertheberriesandchill

vinegarandstirtodissolvePourtheliquidbackovertheberriesandchilluntilneeded

Verylightlybrusha750mlterrineorloaftinwithoilthenlineitwithclingfilmFillitwithwaterthengentlymovetheclingfilmsotherearenobubblesremainingunderneathDiscardthewaterandcarefullydrythelinedterrine

Put250gwaterinasteamerandbringtotheboilPutthewhiteraspberriesinthesteamerbasketcoverandsteamoveralowheatfor45minutesDiscardtheraspberriesndashtheywillhavelostalltheirflavourndashandreservetheraspberry-flavouredliquidthatremainsinthepanYoushouldhavemorethantheoriginal250gbecauseoftheliquidfromtheraspberriesWeighout250gyouwonrsquotneedtheremainingliquid

Steamtheloganberriesinexactlythesamewayweighingout250goftheliquidattheend

Place7gofthegelatineinabowlofice-coldwaterandleaveforabout10minutesuntilsoftMeanwhileaddhalfthefructosetothewhiteraspberryliquidandtheotherhalftotheloganberryliquidHeatboththeliquidsseparatelystirringtodissolvethefructosePourtheloganberryliquidintoacontainerleavetocoolandthenrefrigerateuntilneeded

TakethegelatinefromthewatersqueezingouttheexcessAddthegelatinetothewarmwhiteraspberryliquidandstiruntilfullydissolvedPourthisintothelinedterrinetocreateyourfirstlayerLeaveinthefridgefor2ndash4hoursuntilset

Softenanother7gofthegelatineinice-coldwaterinthesamewayTransfertheloganberryliquidtoasaucepanandwarmthroughoveramediumheatAddthesqueezed-outgelatineandstiruntilfullydissolvedLeavetocoolforafewminutesthentaketheterrineoutofthefridgeandslowlypourtheloganberrylayeroverthesetwhiteraspberrylayerReturntothefridgeandleavetosetagain

Meanwhilesoftenthefinal6ggelatineinabowlofice-coldwaterPuttheyoghurtcreamandsugarintoasaucepanSlitthevanillapodopenlengthwaysandscrapeouttheseedsPuttheseedsandpodintothesaucepanandplaceonalow-mediumheatUsingthebackofaspoonbreakupany

andplaceonalow-mediumheatUsingthebackofaspoonbreakupanyclumpsofvanillaseedssotheyareevenlydistributedStirringregularlyheatuntilthesugarhasdissolvedandthemixtureishottothetouchndashnomoreAnythingabovethisandtheyoghurtislikelytosplitresultinginagrainymouthfeelAddthesqueezed-outgelatinetothewarmcreamandyoghurtmixtureandstiruntilfullydissolvedTaketheterrinefromthefridgeandpourtheyoghurtmixtureovertheloganberryjellyReturntothefridgeuntilset

Ifpreparingthesweetcicelyconfitputthesugarandwineinanovenproofpanwith100mlwaterandbringslowlytotheboilstirringtodissolvethesugarAddtheslicedsweetcicelystalksandplaceinanovenpreheatedto80degC(orthelowestpossiblegasovensetting)Cookfor3ndash4hoursoruntilthesweetcicelyisslightlywoodyDraindiscardingthesugarsyrup

Toserveturntheterrineoutontoaboardcarefullypeelofftheclingfilmandsliceitinto8ndash10portionsLaythemonservingplatesanddotaroundthemaceratedloganberriesndashandthesweetcicelyconfitifyouhavemadeitndashinadecorativefashionMintalsoworkswellasagarnish

FRUCTOSE

FructoseisatypeofsugarthatisfoundnaturallyinbothhoneyandfruitandisdifferenttosucrosethesugarthatweconsumeinteaandcakesonadailybasisSucroseisabondbetweenthecomponentsglucoseandfructoseandisadisaccharideFructoseisamonosaccharideandoneofthesimplestformsofcarbohydratesItisworthnotingthatfructoseisoneandahalftimessweeterthansucroseandisthereforeoftenusedinsweetenersduetothefactthatlessisrequiredBearthisinmindwhenusingfructoseasyouwillneedlesstoachievethesamesweetnessassucroseWhenitcomestofruitypreparationsfructoseisourlsquogo-torsquo

ingredientMatthewandIainswearbyitespeciallyaroundthistimeofyearwhenthefruitarrivesinglutsandinterestingcreationsneedtobeconjuredupandattentivelytestedOnlythenwilltheybeaddedtotheever-changingmenuOnthebasis

thenwilltheybeaddedtotheever-changingmenuOnthebasisthatusinglikewithlikeisalwayspreferablewefindthatusingfructosewithfruitachievesamuchgreaterimpactthancanbeachievedwithsucroseItenhancesthefruitsrsquoinherentflavoursandnoticeablybooststhelsquofruitinessrsquo

GELATINE

GelatineisagreatmeansforsettingliquidsandgivesthelsquoclassicjellyrsquomouthfeelthatweareallsofamiliarwithWell-executedjelliesshouldbedelicateandsoftfarfromrubberyorchewyThelatterdefectisusuallydowntoanexcessofgelatine

HowevertheageofajellywillalsolargelyaffectitsstructureandconsistencyndashdessertslsquostiffenuprsquotheoldertheyareGelatinehasatroublesomehabitofnetworkingandjoiningupwithothernetworksofgelatineThemorethishappensovertimethemorewatertheytrapandthestifferthejellybecomesWeutilisethisphenomenontosticktheseparatelayerstogethercreatingoneuniformterrineLeftfortoolongtheterrinewilleventuallylose

itspleasantmouthfeelItisworthattemptingtodevourtheterrinewithintwodaysndashaneasyfeatonceyouhavetastedit

daggerBerriesformanintegralpartofourfoodheritageandarethequintessentialfruitsoftheBritishsummerTheywereanimportantelementintheVictorianfamilyrsquosfruitbowltheprominentcookerywriterMrsBeetonstatedadamantlyinherBookofHouseholdManagementthatthereislsquonofruitsouniversallyinfavourrsquoTheBritishpopulationenjoyedasurprisingpeakofphysicalhealthduringthemid-Victorianera(fromaround1850to1880)whentherewasatendencytoeatmorefreshfruitvegetablesfishandmeat

ElderflowerSorbetwithFennelSherbetandWildStrawberries

EldergrowsveryquicklyandwillrapidlytakeupspaceneededbyotherhedgerowplantssuchashazelchestnutandbeechLuckilyforustheneighbouringfarmerhasrefrainedfromcuttingbacktheelderandthereareseveraltreesthatgrowinthehedgesoppositeMarkrsquospolytunnelshighuponabankawayfromthefieldbelowWecollectasmanyofthesedelicateperfumedflowerheadsinearlysummeraspossibleWemakeourownsherbetforthissorbetVirtuallyanyspicewithin

reasoncanbeaddedtoicingsugarcitricacidandbicarbonateofsodatocreatethischildhoodconfectioneryWeusefennelwithitsaniseflavoursweetsourandaromaticWildstrawberriesaddthefinishingtouchThesetinymorselsofsweet

muskyaciditypushtheirwayupthroughthegapsintheredbrickpathsinthegardenTheychoosetheshadeofthelowboxhedgesandshadowsoftheherbpatchTheycanbefoundgrowingonheathlandandgrassyvergesandinmanygardensItrsquoswellworthtryingtogetholdofsomeastheytasteinfinitelysuperiortothelargercultivatedvarieties

SERVES4ndash610largeelderflowerheads65mlelderflowercordial50gglucosepowder195gcastersugar

TOSERVE

4ndash6ice-creamcones20ndash30wildstrawberries(ifunavailableusesmallcultivatedstrawberriescutintocubes)

WildFennelSherbet(seehere)

RemoveallbutthesmalleststalksfromtheelderflowerheadsandputtheflowersinabowlPutalltheingredientsexcepttheelderflowersinasaucepanadd690mlwaterandbringtotheboilstirringtodissolvethesugarImmediatelyremovefromtheheatandaddtheelderflowersLeaveto

sugarImmediatelyremovefromtheheatandaddtheelderflowersLeavetoinfusefor15minutesthenstrainthroughafinesieveDiscardtheelderflowersandleavethesyruptocoolTransfertothefridgeandleaveforatleast2hoursbeforechurningThisallowstheproteinspresentinthemixturetohydratefullywhichimprovesthewhippingqualitiesgivingasmoothersorbet

Freezeinanice-creammachineaccordingtothemanufacturerrsquosinstructionsWhenthemixtureisalmostfrozenblitzwithastickblenderfor15ndash30secondsthenreturntothemachineandcontinuetochurnDecantintoanairtightcontainerandfreezeforatleast2hoursbeforeserving

Toservetransferthesorbettothefridgeforabout10minutestosoftenslightlythenscooponeortwoballsofsorbet(orasmanyasyoucanfit)intoeachice-creamconePressthestrawberriesintothesorbetandthendustlavishlywiththesherbet

PineappleWeedJelly

Pineappleweed(Matricariadiscoidea)canbefoundfromMaytoSeptemberandlooksjustlikechamomilebutwithoutthepetalsWhetherornotithasthesamecalmingeffectaschamomileissomethingtobeexploredndashperhapsthisisacalmingandrestorativejellyrecipeItgrowsonwastelandandinplentyofotherplacestooItisoftenresentedbygardenersasitwillcompetewithotherplantsforvaluablespaceandnutrientsandthetaprootswillgripintoanysurfacehowevertoughThisisallthemorereasontofindoutwhosegardenyoumaybeabletopicksomefromwearesuretheywillthankyouforitTheflavourisextraordinaryasitresemblespineapplealmostperfectlyBoththeflowersandleavesareedibleWehavegiventhemeasurementsforthewaterforthejellyingrams

ratherthanmillilitresThisisbecausealthoughmillilitresandgramsareequal(ie100mlweighs100g)inrecipeswhereprecisionisimportantyougetamoreaccurateresultifyouweightheliquidThisiseasytodowithelectronicscalesandinfactwenowweighliquidsasamatterofcourseandrarelyuseameasuringjug

SERVES4220gcastersugar40gpineappleweed13ggelatineleavesCherrySpoom(seehere)orRoastedWhiteChocolateSpoom(seehere)toservePutthesugarinapanwith450gwaterandbringtotheboilstirringtodissolvethesugarRemovefromtheheatandaddthepineappleweedCoverthepanandleavetoinfusefor20minutesStrainthroughmuslinorafinesieve

Soakthegelatineinice-coldwaterforabout10minutesuntilsoftenedRemovefromthewatersqueezingouttheexcessAddthegelatinetothepineappleweedwaterandstiruntilcompletelydissolvedIfthegelatinedoesnotdissolvepourthemixturebackinthepanandplaceoveralowheat

Pourtheliquidintoajellymould(apineapplemouldlooksgoodifyouhaveone)andrefrigerateovernightoruntilset

Servewiththecherryspoomorroastedwhitechocolatespoom

ElderflowerandLavenderMarshmallows

ThelongcountrylaneleadingtoBarleyWoodisgreenandwindingBymid-summerthetreesandhedgesarounditformadenseherbaceoustunnelinpartsAtvariousspotsalongthelanearesoftalmostfurry-lookingelderflowerbusheswaitingtobepickedItrsquosthesamewhenyoustandatthetopgatesoftheWalledGardenand

lookdownthelanethatrunsalongsidethemainorchardHereitisimpossiblenottofeelasenseofcalmandserenityinducedbythedelicatelypungentsmelloflavendergrowingalongtheleft-handwallLikeagroupofplayfulchildrenheadsbobbinginthesunshinethesoftpurpleflowersgreetyoueverymorningwiththeirtranquilscentThesetwoingredientsepitomisesummerattheWalledGardenTheyare

traditionallycelebratedatthesummersolsticeanancientPaganfestivalthatisintendedtomarkthestartofmoreplentifulsuppliesinthegardenItisafestivalofgrowthandlifewhereherbsgatheredthenightbeforethepointatwhichtheywerebelievedtobeattheirmostpowerfularethrownintoabigbonfiretowardoffevilspiritsensuringanotheryearoffertilityinthesurroundinglandSummersolsticeisthereforeanopportunityforustocelebratethegardenatitsmostprosperousandwhatbetterwaytoenjoyitthanbygatheringaroundabonfireandroastingsomemarshmallowsWesometimestoasttheseandsitthemalongsideourchocolatebrownies

(seehere)insteadofthecherryandelderflowersauceToastingmarshmallowsusuallyevokesnostalgicsmilesfromourcustomersTheyarefairlystraightforwardtomakeYouwillneedanelectricwhisk

preferablyafreestandingonefortheamountofwhiskingneededtoachievetherightconsistencybutotherthanthatjustsomepatienceandtheyrsquollbereadybeforeyouknowit

3tbspicingsugar3tbspcornflourrapeseedoilforbrushing40ggelatineleaves750ggranulatedorcastersugar3largeeggwhites

FORELDERFLOWERMARSHMALLOWS

5ndash8largeheadsofelderflowerstalksremoved

FORLAVENDERMARSHMALLOWS

10lavenderspearsinflower1smallredbeetrootfinelygrated(optionalbutrecommendedtomakethemarshmallowspink)

SifttheicingsugarandcornflourintoabowlVerylightlybrusha35cmtimes25cmbakingtraywithrapeseedoilthendustwiththeicingsugarandcornflourShakeanyexcessbackintothebowlandsetaside

Putthegelatineleavesinalargebowlofverycoldwaterandleaveforabout10minutesuntilsoftenedRemovethegelatinefromthewateracoupleofsheetsatatimeandsqueezeoutasmuchexcesswateraspossiblePutallthedrainedsheetsinabowlandpourover185mlhotbutnotboilingwaterStiruntilthegelatinehasfullydissolved

Ifyouaremakingelderflowermarshmallowsaddtheheadsofelderflowertotheliquidthatthegelatinehasbeendissolvedinandleavetoinfusefor10ndash15minutesStraintheliquidthroughafinesieveandcontinuewiththenextstageIfmakinglavendermarshmallowsaddthelavenderandbeetroottothedissolvedliquidandinfusefor10ndash15minutesthenstrain

Putthesugarinalargeheavy-basedpanadd375mlcoldwaterandplaceoveramedium-highheatStiruntilthesugarhasdissolvedPutasugarthermometerinthesyrupandcookthemixturewithoutstirringuntilitregisters122degCRemovefromtheheatandstirinthelavenderorelderflowermixture

PuttheeggwhitesinthebowlofafreestandingelectricmixerandwhiskuntiltheyformstiffpeaksTurnthemixerdowntoalowerspeedandpourinthesugarsyrupinaslowsteadytricklebeatingconstantlyLeavethemixertobeatatamedium-highspeeduntilthemallowmixcoolsandthickensThisusuallytakesabout30minutesitisreadywhenathickribbonisleftonthesurfacewhenthewhiskingattachmentisliftedout

UsingaspatulascoopallthemixintothedustedtrayBesuretoscrapethesidesofthebowlthoroughlysoasnottowasteanyofthisfluffydecadence

sidesofthebowlthoroughlysoasnottowasteanyofthisfluffydecadenceLevelthemixtureandallowtocooltoroomtemperatureCoverwithbakingparchmentandleaveovernighttosetDonotrefrigerate

RemovingthemarshmallowfromthetrayisarguablythehardestpartStartbypeelingthemallowawayfromoneofthenarrowendsofthetrayWhenyougetenoughoffthesidedustinsomeofthereservedcornflourandicingsugarmixthenkeepgentlypeelinganddustinguntilyouhaveagoodcoupleofinchesclearofthetrayAtthispointflipthetrayoverontoaboardandgentlyliftitoffGravityshouldintheorydotherestofthejobIfnotthencontinuepeelinganddustingandturningitontotheboarduntilitcomesloose

Havemorecornflouricingsugarmixreadyandcutthemarshmallowsinto25ndash5cmcubesRolleachmarshmallowinthedustingmixturethoroughlytopreventstickingTheywillkeepstoredinanairtightcontainerforuptoaweek

SpicedGingerBeer

GingerbeerhasbeenbrewedinBritainsincethe1700sThetasteforitspreadacrosstheworldwiththeBritishEmpirebecomingparticularlypopularinAfricaandtheCaribbeanMeanwhilethelsquoBristolglazersquowhichincreasedthestrengthofpotterywasdevelopedlocallyinthe1830sandappliedtoearthenwarecontainersItallowedthisveryBritishtippletobesentfurtherandfurtherafieldThemesmerisingcollectionofphotographsobservationsandfactscontainedinJohnThomsonrsquosVictorianLondonStreetLife(DoverPublicationsInc1994)estimatesthatin1877300000gallonsofgingerbeerweresoldinLondonQuiteoftenitwaspulledthroughthestreetsbyhorsesinacontraptionresemblinganoldpianoanddispensedwithbeerpumphandlesBy1935thereweremorethan3000producersintheUKbutonlyafewremainItreallyisthetasteofBritishsummerPleaseserveinajuginthegardenonatablecoveredwithalinentableclothWehavealsotriedthisrecipewithraspberriesanditwassuperbWeaddedahandfulofraspberrieswiththespicesattheheatingstageandstillputthegingerinmuslinforthefermentationpartItwasaluminousred

MAKESABOUT2LITRES250gcastersugar5ndash8cmpieceoffreshgingerdicedzestandjuiceof1lemon2cloves3juniperberriesfrac12cinnamonstick3blackpeppercorns1tbspGBP(seehere)

Youwillneeda225litrecontainerwithalidplusa25cmsquareofmuslinandapieceofstringfortyingitintoaDickWhittingtonesqueparcelItisimportanttosterilisealltheequipmentincludingthemuslinandstringYoucandothisbypouringboilingwaterovereverything

Putthesugarinapanwithathirdofthegingerplusthelemonzestspicesand250mlwaterBringthismixturetoalightsimmerstirringtodissolve

and250mlwaterBringthismixturetoalightsimmerstirringtodissolvethesugarthenleavetocool

Pour175litresofwaterandthejuiceofthelemonintoyoursterilised2litrecontainer(alargeliddedplasticboxisfine)thelemonwillneutralisethechlorineinthewaterwhichwouldotherwiseaffecttheyeastrsquosproductivityStraininthesugarandwatermixturetietherestofthegingerupinthemuslinwithapieceofstringanddropitinAddtheGBPthencoverandleaveatroomtemperaturefor5daysBesuretoopenthelidbrieflyeverydayinordertoletoutanycarbondioxidethathasbuiltupotherwiseitwillopenofitsownaccord

Strainthemixturethroughafinesieveintoasterilised2litreplasticbottleandputonthetopSavetheGBPandgiveitarinseitwillhavegrown(Ifyoustoreitinthefridgeinasmallsterilecontaineritwillkeepforupto2weeks)After2daysthegingerbeerwillbereadytodrinkalthoughifyoudesireafizzierbrewleaveitforlongerRefrigerationwillhaltanyfurtherfermentation

SummerElder

ThisinitiallysoundsasthoughitmightbeathoroughlysweetaffairbutfearnotThebotanicalsintheginrevelintheirmeetingwiththeblackpepperandraspberrytincturecreatinganalmostsavouryflavourThesorbetweuseisfromMendipMomentswhosepedigreeherdofHolsteincowsgrazesjustoverthehorizonontheSomersetlevelsButthisdrinkwouldworkverywellwithanypre-maderaspberrysorbet

1scoopofMendipMomentsraspberryandelderflowersorbetatroomtemperature

50mlgin(welikeChasegin)25mlelderflowercordialdashofAngosturabittersdashofblackpeppertincture(seeboxbelow)

dashofraspberrytincture(seeboxbelow)3blackpeppercornsfreshlygroundblackpepper

FirstfillatumblerwithicetochillitInamixingglasscombinethesorbetginelderflowercordialbittersandtincturesGiveitastirwithabarspoontobreakupthesorbetbeforeaddingahandfuloficeandplacethetinpartoftheshakerovertheglasstappingwiththepalmofyourhandtosecureAgoodhardshakewillallowtheicetobreakupthesorbetandmakeasmoothtextureddrinkDiscardtheicefromthetumblerandstraintheliquidthroughastrainerandsieveintotheglassFinishwithagenerousgrindofblackpepperandthethreepeppercornsontop

MAKINGTINCTURES

FillajamjaronethirdfullwithyourchoseningredientandcoverwithahighpercentageproofvodkatotwicethedepthoftheingredientsLeavetoinfusefor2weeksandthenstrainintoanothercleanjamjarYouwillbeleftwithanintenseessenceof

yourchoseningredient

RawRhubarbSmash

AsmashissonamedbecausethemintissmashedupduringshakingDuringthemid-nineteenthcenturythesmashbecameasymbolofintemperanceinAmericaandwasafavouritesummerdrinkComparedtoitsolderbrotherthejulepthisdrinkisinthewordsofthecocktailhistorianDavidWondrichlsquoaquickbracerratherthanaslowsipperrsquoBeforethedrinkisshakenwealsomuddletherhubarbWebuildthis

cocktailinajamjarandthenaddcrushediceRawrhubarbhasgoodacidityandweuseitinsteadofthecitrusfruitoftheoriginal

SERVES125mlrhubarbsyrup(seehere)7ndash8cmpieceofrhubarbfinelyslicedapinchofsugar6sprigsofmint50mlbourbonwhiskey

50mlbourbonwhiskeyfinelyslicedrhubarbdustedwithsugartogarnish

PlacethesyruprhubarbandsugarinajamjarandlsquomuddlersquoitbypressingwithapestletoreleasethejuicefromtherhubarbandmixitwiththesugarAddasprigofmintandmuddleagainmoregentlythistimeAddthebourbon2moresprigsofmintandafewicecubesScrewthelidonandshakefor10secondsPackincrushediceand2moremintsprigsuntiltheiceispiledjustabovetherimServeinthejamjargarnishedwithathinsliceofrawrhubarbdustedwithsugarplusagoodsprigofmint

DoubleSloeGinandTonic

WeuseametalVictoriancoffeepottostirchillandservethistippleAfter10goodswirlsclockwisetheoutsidegathersadivinefrostWepourthe

10goodswirlsclockwisetheoutsidegathersadivinefrostWepourthedrinkintoateacupanddeliveritwithapotoficecubesInVictoriantimesservingdrinksinthismannerwasawayofconsumingalcoholintheguiseofafternoonteaThiswasinordernottooffendthebeliefsofthelocalsinfar-flungregionsoftheoldBritishEmpireItisstillageniuswayofdisguisingthoseearly-afternoondrinks

SERVES16raspberries200mltonicwater(weliketheFeverTreebrand)25mlgin(Chaseginisourchoice)25mlsloegin

PuttheraspberriesinaglassreservingonetodropintheteacupAddadropoftonicwaterandlsquomuddlersquountilasmuchjuicehasbeenextractedfromtheraspberriesaspossibleStrainintoasmallteapotandaddtheginsloeginandtherestofthetonicwaterDropin3icecubesandstirwellPourintoacuptoserveanddropintheremainingraspberrytheicecanbeaddedwithtongslikesugarcubes

RecipeList

GoatBaconwithOxTongueNasturtiumsandClarifiedHamBroth

WildMushroomswithSourdoughToastandThymeSticheltonCregravemeFraicircche

WildMushroomandSpeltPressedTerrinewithSpinachandRainbowChard

SwedishKnaumlckebroumldwithCottageCheesePickledBeetrootCarawayBeetrootCrispsandTomThumbLettuce

RoastCrownPrinceSoupwithTandooriSpiceWalnutOilandCrispSageLeaves

Salt-bakedCeleriacPortobelloMushroomandAppleSoupDeep-friedAuberginewithRoseHipSyrup

PearNativeNapeHazelnutCardamomandEwersquosCheeseSaladPreservedDuckLegChorizoButterBeanandConfitTomato

PotStewwithYinYangBeansWoodPigeonBreastswithPersianSpicedBulgarWheat

CucumberAniseedandBlackCabbageChickenMole

VenisonCiderandQuinceStewwithHerbedButterDumplingsFishSoupwithSpicedHeritageTomatoesFennelSeedand

EnglishTruffleOilToastSlow-braisedGoatrsquosLegwithCiderShallotsLentilsandGlazed

CarrotsPheasantKievwithWinterTarragonandStrawberryMyrtle

RareRoastSirloinofBeefwithBordelaiseSauceBlackCabbageandTruffleCauliflower

AlmondPearCardamomandChocolateCakeSeaBuckthornSorbetwithAppleandVanillaPureacuteeToffeeApple

andCaramelLemonBalmBeetrootAppleandCobnutCrumblewithRoastedWhite

ChocolateSpoomSimplesyrupsforsorbetsandspooms

SpoomRoastedWhiteChocolateSpoom

CherrySpoomItalianMeringueLordrsquosLovageAppleFlip

TheOrchardatBarleyWoodSalsifyandOgleShieldGratin

VincentCastellanorsquosVenisonChorizo

THEVALEBELOWTHEgardengraduallyaltersatfirstarippleofmutedcolourthattransformsintoaleafseaofredsandbrownsflecksofcopperandorangeandafaintshimmerofsilverbirchThelarchesstandtallandgreenagainstthisbackdropofcolour

WewatchtheorchardscarefullyastheirfruitcropsintandemCheddarCrossandRibstonPippinleadthewaywhilejack-of-all-tradesMorganSweetfollowsTheciderbarnsmellsjustasitshouldwiththecurativearomasofthesweetspicedapplesTrugsbucketsandanycontainersavailablelinethetimberwallswindfallssetasideTheoakpressperfumedfromseasonsofworkiswoundupasframesandcheeseclothsarefilledwithscrattedapplesThereisarhythmasframeafterframeisstackedlevelledandsecuredbeforethecogsareheavedandtheappletoweriscompressedAtfirstthereisjustatricklethenthejuiceturnstoaflowthatquicklyfillsourcontainersThecolourisgoldenandtheflavoursweetacidiccaramelGlassesarefilledandclinkedsmilesexchangedvarietiesnotedElenaandPhilwilldebateanddiscussthenextblend

Earlyautumnrsquosblood-coloureddamsonsseeoffthelastoftheraspberriesMarkrsquostomatoesbecomeaspicedsoupalongwithfennelandaremetinthebowlbyturmeric-friedlinghorsemackerelandsquidSourdoughbreadistoastedanddrizzledwithEnglishtruffleoilwithflavoursofboskywoodlandandfour-starpetrolFoundbyacaninetrufflehunterinSomersettheseirregularblackobjectstransformasupperForagersdeliverboxesandbasketsoffungiwithtexturesrangingfrompowdertothosethatslipfromyourfingersSomedeliquescebytheeveningRoedeerfindtheirthickwintercoatmutedtoadarkershadeWeclaimabuckortwoandstewsomecutswithciderandquincetobeservedwithplumpbutterdumplingsVinceCastellanocollectstheshouldersandsoontheyhangasbundlesofredchorizoBracesofpheasantsarehungandacoupleofthesered-eyedfirebirdsescapeesfromanearbyshootpeckaroundthegardenThecockisaflashofcolourwhilehispartnerthehenismuch

thegardenThecockisaflashofcolourwhilehispartnerthehenismuchmoresubduedinhersombrebrownfeathers

WoodpigeonsareperchedonthepostssecuringtheraspberriesunwittinglyawaitingameetingwithPersianspicedbulgarwheatThevinehouseisfullofearly-seasonMuscatgrapesThe100-year-oldvinersquoscroponcefilledsilverbowlsinthediningroomofBarleyWoodhouseSimonWillswhogrewupatBarleyWoodtellsusofthepleasureofeatingthissweetfruitduringwartimerationingandofmorningsshootingrabbitswithhismotherrsquosgundogBoyandSpanielwereateamwhenhecrawledsowouldsheAsthehedgesbegintocrophipsandhawssloeginisdebatedintherestaurantandeachcustomerpromisesafinerrecipethanthelast

GoatBaconwithOxTongueNasturtiumsandClarifiedHamBroth

lsquoGoatbaconhellipwhatrsquosthatrsquowehearyouaskMatthewandIaintakethegoatloins(twomusclesthatrunparalleltothespine)anddrycurethemmuchinthesamewaythatordinarybaconismadeTheymixthesaltwithspicessotheresultingbaconisfragrantwithnotesofcuminandfennelthatsitperfectlywiththeflavourofthegoat(seetherecipeonhere)ThetextureisidenticaltotraditionalbaconyettheflavourispleasinglydifferentThisbaconworkswellalongsideoneofourfavouritepiecesofoffaltongueTongueusedtobeverypopularbuthassincefallenoutoffashionandisrarelyseenonrestaurantmenusWethinkthisisashameItischeapeasytocookveryversatileandoneofthemostoverlookedmusclesSeehereforOx

TonguewithCauliflowerGilliflowerandHazelnutsandseehereforcookingtongue

SERVES4

800mlhamhockbroth(seehere)alittlevintagecidervinegarsuchasOstlerrsquosrapeseedoil12slicesofGoatBacon(seehere)cut3ndash5mmthick4eggspoached(seehere)12ndash16small-mediumnasturtiumleaveswashedanddried(ifunavailableusebabyrainbowchardleaves)

4nasturtiumflowersgentlywashedfineseasaltflakyseasaltblackpepper

FORTHETONGUE

1oxtonguebrinedandcooked(seehere)1egglightlybeaten50gdriedbreadcrumbs(seeheretoachievethebestbreadcrumbs)

Freezethebrothin1ndash2tubsovernightthenadayorsobeforeyouplantomakethisdishturnoutthefrozenblocksandwrapthemin2layersofmuslinPlacetheminasievesetoverabowllargeenoughtoholdthethawedbroththenputtheminthefridgeThegelatineimpuritiesandfatwillstaysolidinthemuslinatfridgetemperaturewhilethebrothwillrunclearbelowResisttheurgetosqueezethemuslinitwilldraindryeventuallyThistechniqueyieldsabouthalftheinitialfrozenweightofbrothinfinishedclarifiedbroth

Slicethecookedtongueinto4portionsabout5mmndash1cmthickLightlybrushtheslicesonbothsideswithbeateneggthendiptheminthedriedbreadcrumbstogiveanevencoveringSetaside

PuttheclarifiedhambrothinasaucepanandplaceoveralowheatBringtoasimmerthentasteIfitistooconcentratedaddcoldwateratablespoonatatimeuntilyougetthedesireddilutionSeasonwithapinchoffinesaltand

atimeuntilyougetthedesireddilutionSeasonwithapinchoffinesaltandasmallsplashofcidervinegarWhenyouarehappywiththeseasoningsetthebrothasideinawarmplace

PlaceafryingpanoveramediumheatandwhenitishotaddasplashofrapeseedoilTheoilshouldbegintosmokelightlyifthepanishotenoughAddthetonguefollowedbythebaconandfryfor1ndash2minutespersideuntillightlygoldenRemovefromthepanandplaceonalayerofkitchenpaper

ToserveplaceapoachedeggineachbowlandthenaddthetongueandthebaconSlowlypourinthebrothGarnishwiththenasturtiumleavesandflowersthenaddflakysaltandcrackedpeppertotheeggs

WildMushroomswithSourdoughToastandThymeSticheltonCregravemeFraicircche

ThisissupperforanautumnaldayThesumofallofitspartsandacollectionofflavoursthathavebeenenjoyedtogetherforcenturiesAutumnmeansthatitistimeformushroomsAnumberofforagersdropinwithboxesofthemthroughouttheseasonandwealsotrytogetoutasmuchaswecanndashespeciallyintothewoodsandhillsframedinthewindowsofourglasshousePleasetrytogetholdofasourdoughloafforthetoastWepickoursup

fromMarkrsquosBreadinBedminsterTheyhavetheirownlevainorstarterthattheyusetomaketheirBristolsourdoughThelacticacidinsourdoughproducedbythelactobacillibacteriagivesthisbreaditsuniquetastewhichworkssowellinthissimplemealOurbusinesseshavegrownintandemandMarkNewmanandhisfellowbakershavesimilarvaluestooursForonetheymakealltheirdeliveriesontheirlsquoBreadmobilersquoaheavyironbicyclewithabigboxonthebackThewarmwoodyaromaofthymeisbothbitterandsweetItwasalways

destinedtobepairedwithanassortmentofwildmushroomsJekkaMcVicarourqueenofherbspointsoutthatthymeaidsdigestionandwillhelptobreakdownfatinfoodsndashanothergoodreasontobeliberalwhenpairingitwithcheeseWechoseSticheltonforthisrecipeIthastoastandcaramelflavourswithanunderlyingbutterinesswhileitsblueveinsprovidepiquancyThebluesoftensthecheesealteringitstextureandflavourchangingthecolourfromwhitetosoftcreamThewholetrucklesareathingofbeautyacombinationofwhitecrustthroughtoabrightrustthatisalmostpink

SERVES4

2tbsprapeseedoil300gmixedwildmushroomssuchasslipperyjackpennybunrussulahorsemushroomsheeprsquosfootandpuffballscleanedandslicedinto1cmstrips

leavesfrom4sprigsofthyme25gunsaltedbutter8verythinslicesofsourdoughbreadfineseasalt

fineseasaltflakyseasalt

FORTHETHYMESTICHELTONCREgraveMEFRAIcircCHE

25gSticheltoncheeseroughlychopped75mlcregravemefraicirccheleavesfrom5sprigsofthyme

ForthethymeSticheltoncregravemefraicirccheputalltheingredientsinablenderorfoodprocessorandpulsetoasemi-coarseconsistencySeasonwithflakysalttotasteandsetaside

PlacealargefryingpanoverahighheatandleaveuntilitisveryhotAddtherapeseedoilitshouldbegintosmokeImmediatelyaddthemushroomsandthymeleavesplusadustingoffinesaltandtosstocoatthemevenlywiththeoilLeaveundisturbedforaminuteorsountilthemushroomscoloureversoslightlythentossandcolourontheothersideRemovefromtheheatandaddthebuttertothepanTossuntilithasmeltedandthemushroomsareevenlycoatedthenchecktheseasoning

WhilethemushroomsarecookingputthesourdoughbreadunderahotgrillandtoastturningeveryminuteuntilbothsidesaregoldenbrownThinslicesofbreadwillcurlunderthegrillandtheregularturningpreventsthishappening

RemovethesourdoughfromthegrillandaddacoupleofslicestoeachplateCoverwiththemushroomsseasonwithflakyseasaltandaddaheapedtablespoonoftheSticheltoncregravemefraicircche

daggerFromtheoldEnglishlsquoStichlrsquo(meaninglsquostylersquo)andTun(lsquovillagersquoorlsquohamletrsquo)SticheltonistheresultofacollaborationbetweencheesemakerJoeScheiderandcheesemongerRandolphHodgsonofNealrsquosYardDairyontheWelbeckEstateinNottinghamshireThisbluecheeseismadeusingunpasteurisedorganiccowrsquosmilkandtraditionalanimalrennetThedairyislocatedonthefarmandthecowsgrazejustyardsawayJoeandRandopharefocusedonpromotingarediscoveryinBritainoftherawmilktraditionTheywantedtonametheircheeseStiltonbutwerenotallowedtoundertheProtectedDesignatedOrigin(PDO)schemewhich

doesnotallowanunpasteurisedcheesetobeaddedtoitsranksWethinkSticheltonisanevenbetternameitwasanearlyformofthewordlsquoStiltonrsquorecordedinthetwelfthcenturyWereallyappreciatetheirdesiretomakethebestpossibleproductusingthefinestingredientswithintegrityandtraditionBravo

WILDMUSHROOMS

WearefascinatedbythesefruitingbodiesthatappearinamatterofhoursndashmyceliumnetworksPleaseuseamushroomguidethatisfullyillustratedandofferscomprehensiveinstructionsonidentifyingwhetheramushroomispossiblypoisonousRogerPhillipsrsquoMushrooms(Macmillan2006)isveryuseful

AfewtimeswehavebeenluckyenoughtocookthisrecipewithPennybunrussulahorsemushroomsslipperyjackspuffballsandsheeprsquosfootmushroomsHoweversomeofthesearedifficulttofindandeasilyconfusedwithnon-ediblevarietiesAgoodplacetostartiswithsomecommonvarietiesthatarerelativelyeasytoidentifyOnceyouhavebuiltupagoodknowledgeofthesehaveatentativelookfurtherafield

MushroomslovedampweatherfollowedbysunshinesotrytopickonadrydayBrushoffanydebriswithasmallmushroombrushndashatoothbrushworksatreatbutmakesureyouuseitexclusivelyforthatactivityCheckformaggotsandparasitesbeforecookingThesearesomeofourfavouritevarieties

ChanterellendashCantharelluscibariusTheyhaveasuperbflavourTheyareassociatedwithpinebeechandbirchandsmellofapricotsTheycanbefoundonmossybanksanddampwoodsbetweensummerandlateautumn

ChickenofthewoodsndashLaetiporussulphureusAlongwiththebeefsteakmushroomthisistheonlyotherbracketfunguswortheatingItcanpotentiallyyielduptoakilooffleshandcanbefoundgrowingonoldtreessuchasoakandyewcherrysweetchestnutandwilllowbetweenAprilandautumnTheyellowerthebetter

GiantpuffballndashCalvatiagiganteaThesemustbeacleanmilkywhiteandpredominatelyunblemishedontheiroutsideandwithinTheycanbefoundingrassyfieldsgardenshedgerowsandonwoodedgesbetweenlatesummerandautumn

JewrsquosearndashAuriculariaauricula-judaeThesehaveacolourthatwillbeanywherebetweenapalereddishbrownthroughtodarkThisgelatinous-texturedmushroomcanonlybefoundondeadordyingwoodusuallyelderFinditatanytimeoftheyear

FieldmushroomndashAgaricuscampestrisThisoneresemblesthemushroomthatmostofuswillhavehadfromtheshopsItiseasytofindandgrowsonpastureandgrasslandbetweenlatesummerandautumnBewaryoftheyellowstainerwhichcanbeconfusedwiththefieldmushroomitscaphasyellowstreaksandsmellsofcarbolicacidwhencut

MorelndashMorchellaesculentaAjoytodiscoverandeatItresemblesanirregularhoneycombCanbefoundonopenscrubwoodlandchalkysoilashelmorappleduringlateSpringoftenaroundStGeorgesrsquosday

OystermushroomndashPleurotusostreatusThesearecolouredsilver-greytoafawnybeigeFindthemontrunksorbranchesofdeadordyingdeciduoustreessuchasbeechallyeararound

ParasolandshaggyparasolndashLepiotaproceraandLepiotarhacodesTheselooklikeanumbrellawithanippleonthetopThestemandcaparescalyandtherewillbearingonthestemwherethecapwasattachedFindtheminopenwoodsandpasturesbetweensummerandautumn

PennybunndashBoletusedulisItrsquosanabsolutewinifyoudiscoverthisoneThismushroomhasnogillsbuttubeslikeaspongeinsteadFinditalongedgesof

woodsandingrassyclearingsBewareofDevilrsquosBoletendashBoletussatanaswhichhasawhitegreycapwithorangesporesandaflushofredonthestemasitwillcauseanupsetstomach

StGeorgersquosmushroomndashCalocybegambosaAfavouriteeatenrawatTheEthicurean(seehere)itcanbefoundongrassyclearingsroadsidesandontheedgesofwoodsAgoodonetoidentifysinceitisspecifictoearlyMayoftenappearingaweekafterthe23rdApril

WildMushroomandSpeltPressedTerrinewithSpinachandRainbowChard

TheridgeoppositeTheEthicureaniscalledBlackDownThehighesthillin

TheridgeoppositeTheEthicureaniscalledBlackDownThehighesthillintheMendipsitiscoveredinamixtureofheatherandbrackenInitsshadowsarepatchesofdeciduouswoodlandwherewehavefoundwoodblewitmushroomswiththeexpertguidanceofourfriendandforagerAdrianBootsWoodblewitsgrowinleaflitterandrangeincolourfromlilactoarichpurple-pinkwithanintenselyperfumedaromaTheyhavebeensoldinEnglishmarketssincethethirteenthcenturyWeloveusingtheminthisterrinebutitisimportanttohavethemexpertlyidentifiedassomeharmfulvarietiescanbemistakenforthemAlwayscookthemthoroughlyastheyshouldnotbeeatenrawWildmushroomsvarydramaticallyinflavourdependingonthevariety

AnygoodediblewildmushroomsyoucangetyourhandsonwillworkperfectlywellhereIfyouareinterestinginpickingyourownbookyourselfontoagoodforagingcoursendashtheyareruninmostpartsofthecountryOtherwiseboughtbuttonmushroomsorbrownmushroomscanbeusedinthisrecipeandyouwillstillhaveadelectableterrineWewraptheterrineinamixtureofspinachandchardforaspectacular

appearanceandlayeritwiththecolourfulstalksofrainbowchardItsearthinessiscompletelyathomewiththemushroomsandspeltPearledspelthasafirmtextureandgentlenuttyflavourAlthoughitisatypeofwheatsomepeoplewithwheatintolerancesfinditeasiertodigestIthasbeeneateninBritainforthousandsofyearsandwasfavouredbytheRomansOurscomesfromSharphamParkclosetoGlastonburyinSomersetTheyareagreatoutfitandtrueproponentsofamoresustainablewayoffarming

SERVES6ndash8

300gpearledspeltasprigofrosemary2sprigsofthyme400mlvegetablestock(seehere)200gmixedspinachandrainbowchardpreferablywithlargeleaves50gsaltedbutter300gwildmushroomssuchasbluefoothedgehogfungussheeprsquosfootpennybunrussulaorslipperyjacks(orbuttonorbrownmushrooms)cutintoslices1cmthick

3mediumeggyolks1frac12tspDijonmustard

1frac12tspDijonmustard1frac12tspvintagecidervinegarsuchasOstlerrsquosrapeseedoilforbrushingfineseasalt

Putthespeltintoasaucepanwiththerosemaryandthymeaddthevegetablestockand550mlwaterandbringtotheboilCoverthepanreducetheheatandcookfor1ndash1frac12hoursuntilthespeltistenderbutstillretainsalittlebiteAlltheliquidshouldbeabsorbed

Meanwhileputalargepanofwaterontoboiladding3tablespoonsofsaltFillapanorbowlwithcoldwaterandiceandsetasideSeparatethestalksfromtheleavesofthespinachandchardkeepingtheleaveswholeChopthestalksinto3cmpiecesAddtheleavestotheboilingwaterandblanchfor30ndash45secondsthenremovewithaslottedspoonandtransferstraighttotheicebathThiswillhelpretainthevibrantcolourStirtheleavestochillthemquicklyOncetheyarethoroughlycoldremovethemacoupleatatimeandsqueezeasmuchmoisturefromthemaspossibleNextblanchthestalksintherapidlyboilingwaterfor1ndash1frac12minutesTransferthemtotheicebathandstirtochillrapidlythendrainandpatdrywithateatowelorkitchenpaperSeparatethelargespinachandchardleavesfromthesmallonesthenplacealltheleavesandstalksinthefridgeuntilrequired

Meltthebutterinasaucepanaddthemushroomsandapinchofsaltandcookoveramediumheatfor5ndash10minutesuntilthemushroomshavesoftenedSetasideretaininganyliquid

OncethespeltisdonepickouttheherbsanddiscardPutthespeltandmushroomsintoablenderorfoodprocessoraddtheeggyolksmustardvinegarandsomesaltandpulseuntilthoroughlymixedChecktheseasoningandaddmoresaltifrequiredContinuetopulseuntilthemixturehasafairlycoarsetextureWholegrainsofspeltmaystillbepresentbutthemajoritywillhavebeenbrokendownintoapasteChecktheseasoningoncemore

Lightlybrushan800gterrineorloaftinwithrapeseedoilandlineitwithalargepieceofclingfilmGentlycoaxtheclingfilmintothecornersoftheterrinemakingsurenottotearitthenfilltheterrinewithwaterAtthispointyouwillseeanyairbubblesbeneaththeclingfilmManipulatethe

pointyouwillseeanyairbubblesbeneaththeclingfilmManipulatetheclingfilmtoremovethemthenpouroutthewaterandcarefullydrytheinsideHavethelargerspinachandchardleavesatthereadyDrapethemdownonesideoftheterrinemakingsuretherearenogapssothetipofeachleafreachesthecentreofthebaseofthedishAnyexcessleafshouldoverhangtheedgeoftheterrineRepeatontheothersideandtheendsIfanyterrineisvisiblethroughtheleavesthenpatchtheseareasusingsmallerleavesuntilitiscompletelycovered

Decanthalfthespeltandmushroommixtureintotheterrineandpressdownuntilitiscompletelylevelandfillingall4cornersLayerthespinachandchardstalkslengthwaysendtoendontopofthespeltmixsothattheycompletelycoveritAddasecondlayerofstalksofdifferentcoloursifyouwishCoverthestalkswiththeremainingspeltmixsoitreachesthetopoftheterrineLayersomesmallerspinachorchardleavesoveritthenfoldovertheoverhangingleavessothatthespeltmixiscompletelywrappedinthespinachandchardleaves

Placeinthefridgeandleaveforatleast2hoursTurntheterrineoutpeelofftheclingfilmandthencutintoslicesandputthemonservingplatesCoverwithclingfilmandleavetocometoroomtemperaturefor30minutesbeforeservingItrsquosgreatwithbreadchutneyandafewsaladleaves

daggerSpinachwasonlyintroducedintoEnglandaroundthe1500spriorreferencestothisleafwouldhavementionedplantssuchaschicoryoracheandGoodKingHenry(Chenopodiumbonus-henricus)WehaveusedthelatteralotinourkitchenItcanbefoundalongroadsidesandoncultivatedlandWithtriangularorspear-shapedleavesitgrowsyear-roundandmakesagreatsubstituteforspinach

SwedishKnaumlckebroumldwithCottageCheesePickledBeetrootCarawayBeetrootCrispsandTomThumbLettuce

AutumnsignalsthestartofthegameseasonanditiseasytoeatnothingbutmeatatthistimeofwonderfulglutsThissaladisourwayofredressingthebalanceandofferingafreshstartertowhatmightbeameatyautumnalfeastWeuseLongleyrsquoscottagecheesewhichwefindfarsuperiortoallthe

otherswehavetriedItscleanlacticfreshnessworksparticularlywellwiththesweetnessofthebeetrootThespicesareheatedinadrypantohelpreleasetheiressentialoilsThis

makesthemmorepungentandwithgreaterdepthasifsomethingwithinthemhadcometolifeAsthearomafillstheairitisagreattimetothinkaboutwhatcharacteraspicehasSomewillshowmentholtonesotherswillberesinouscitrusgrassybitterWhenyoubreakdownthetasteintoseparatecomponentsitiseasytodecidewheretheymightbeusefulinrelationtootheringredientsCuminhasanearthyflavoursimilartothatofbeetrootCitruswillalsocomethroughmimickinglemonpeelwhichisanidealpairingwithbeetsCarawayisincludedheretoofferasweetspiceedgecomplementingthelightsournessintheryecrispbreadsItalsohasanisetoneswhichweheightenwiththeadditionoffennelseed

SERVES4

1tspcuminseeds1tspcarawayseeds2TomThumblettucesorotherroundsoftbutterheadlettuces225gcottagecheesepreferablyLongleyFarm4tbspPickledBeetroot(seehere)seasalt

FORTHEBEETROOTCRISPS

2Chioggiabeetroot(ifyoucanrsquotgetthemuseordinarybeetroot)icingsugarfordusting

FORTHEKNAumlCKEBROumlD

240mlmilk

240mlmilk45ghoneyfrac12sachet(35g)ofdriedactiveyeast270gwholemealflour80gryeflour30gspeltflourfrac12tspfineseasalt1tspcarawayseedstoastedinadryfryingpanandthencrushed1tspfennelseedstoastedinadryfryingpanandthencrushed1tspflakyseasalt

Tomakethebeetrootcrispsfinelyslicethepinkandwhitecandy-stripedbeetsthroughtheirequatorLaytheslicesonawirerackthatwillfitonanovenshelfDustthefinestpossiblelayeroficingsugaroverthemthenturnthemoverandrepeatPlaceinanovensetat50degC(orthelowestpossiblegassetting)andleavefor4ndash6hoursuntilcrunchyandcrisp

MeanwhilemakethebreadHeatthemilkandhoneyto45degC(justabovebodytemperature)SprinkletheyeastintoitandstiracoupleoftimesSetasidefor10minutesanditwillfrothastheyeastisactivated

SiftthefloursintoabowlandaddthefineseasaltandtoastedcrushedseedsPourintheyeastmixtureandstirtomakeadoughTurnitoutontoalightlyflouredsurfaceandkneadfor5minutesuntilsmoothandelasticReturnittothebowlcoverwithatowelandleaveinawarmplacetorisefor1hour

Heattheovento230degCGasMark8KnockbackthedoughbygivingitasmartpercussiveslapthatwillknocktheairfreeSatisfactionforthepacifistFoldthedoughoveracoupleoftimesandrollitbackintoaballthendivideitinto8piecesRollthesebackintoballscoverwithateatowelandleavetorestfor10minutes

Lightlydusttheworksurfacewithryeflourandrolleachballoutuntilitis2ndash3mmthickTransfertobakingsheetslinedwithnon-stickbakingpaperanduseapastrywheeloralargesharpknifetocutthemintolong(ish)rectanglesabout5cmwideSomewillbeshorterthanotherstheendsmight

rectanglesabout5cmwideSomewillbeshorterthanotherstheendsmightnotnecessarilybesquarebuttheflavourissettobebangonPrickthemlightlyalloverwithaforkandfinishwithacoatingofflakyseasaltPlaceintheovenandbakefor10minutesuntillightlybrownedTurnthemoverandcookforafewminutesmoretocolourtheothersideRemovefromtheovenandleavetocoolonawirerackTheywillkeepforaweekinanairtighttinbutgoodlucktryingnottoeatthemwiththecottagecheeseinthefridge

Toastthecuminandcarawayseedsinamedium-hotpanuntilthearomaisheavythentipthemoutontoaplatetocoolCrushthemtogetherwithalittlesaltandsetasideforuseasagarnishSeparatethelettuceleavesandplacetheminicedwaterfor20minutestocrispupDrytheleavesthenservethecrispbreadscottagecheesepickledbeetrootcubesandbeetrootcrispswithalittlepotofthefragrantseasonedcuminandcarawaygarnishingsalt

daggerFromahistoricalperspectiveitislikelythatthefirsteverattemptstomakecheeseresultedinafoodstuffsimilartowhatwenowcallcottagecheeseItisasimplecheesetomakeandonethatcanbeattemptedwithouttheneedforexpensiveorcomplicatedkitchenequipmentThefirstreferencestocottagecheesemakingintheUKdatebackto1831ThemilkwouldbebroughtintothehomeandplacedsomewherewarmwherethenaturalbacteriaincheesewouldproduceenoughacidforthemilktoformInthedayswhenfarmerstransportedmilkbynon-motorisedmeansthemilkwouldbeveryquicklyaffectedInevitablyitwoulddeveloptoomuchacidityparticularlyinwarmweatherCheesewasthereforeasimplebutbrilliantsolutionenablingthepreservationofvastquantitiesofmilkobtainedduringthemilkingseasonCottagecheesewasnotonlyeasytomakebutitwasoftenmadefromleftovermilkthathadalreadystartedtoturn

daggerCarawayisthoughttohavebeenamongthefirstspiceplantscultivatedinEuropeIndeedHaroldMcGeesuggeststhatcarawayhelpedtoshapeworldhistorylsquoancientEuropeanhungerforAsianspiceswasanimportantdrivingforceinthedevelopmentofItalyPortugalSpainHollandandEnglandintomajorseapowersduringtheRenaissancersquo(OnFoodandCooking2004)ThisgivesresonancetothesignificanceofcarawaytoourownlocalareagiventheimportanceofBristolasamainUKseaport

RoastCrownPrinceSoupwithTandooriSpiceWalnutOilandCrispSageLeaves

ThearrivaloftheCrownPrincesquashsignalstheendofautumnForusitisthekingofsquashesThissweetlyflavouredregalfriendisastapleingredientthatwillremainwithusformostofthewintermonthsItsvibrantorangefleshisdelicatelysweetandhasanexcellenttextureforroastingTheviolet-greyskinishardtocutthroughsoourchefsarmthemselveswiththeirbestknivestoreleasethegoldensumptuousnesswithinPerhapsduetoitsshapetheCrownPrinceissometimesreferredtoasapumpkinratherthanasquashBotharemembersoftheCucurbitaceaefamilycloserelativesofcucumberscourgettesandmelonsTheirfleshishighinwatersotheybenefitfromlongcookingwhichbringsouttheirhoneyednuttinessTheadditionofsagetothissoupwasarevelationItaddsanearthiermoremeatytonetothewholeensembleTryityouwillseeasideofsquashthatyoumighthaveneverseenbefore

SERVES4ndash612ndash14kgCrownPrincesquashpeeleddeseededandcutinto25cmcubesrapeseedoil500gonionsfinelysliced250gcarrotsfinelysliced250gcelery(orceleriac)finelysliced150gclarifiedbutter(seebelow)4ndash6smallsageleavesvintagecidervinegarsuchasOstlerrsquos2tbsptandoorispicemixwalnutoilfordrizzlingfineseasalt

Heattheovento180degCGasMark4SpreadthesquashcubesoutonaroastingtrayinasinglelayerLightlycoatwithrapeseedoilandafinescatteringofseasaltRoastfor30ndash45minutesstirringoccasionallyuntiltenderandbeginningtoblackenaroundtheedgesTakeoutoftheovenandsetaside

Heatatablespoonofrapeseedoilinasaucepanaddtheonionscarrotsand

Heatatablespoonofrapeseedoilinasaucepanaddtheonionscarrotsandceleryandcookoveramediumheatfor10ndash15minutesuntilthevegetablesaresoftenedbutnotcolouredAddthesquash1frac12teaspoonsofsaltandenoughwatertocoverBringtoasimmerandcookfor5minutesTransfertoablenderandblitzuntilsmoothAdjusttheconsistencyofthesoupbyaddingmorewaterifnecessaryseasonwithsaltandcidervinegartotasteandblitzoncemore

HeattheclarifiedbutterinasmallsaucepanuntilveryhotbutnotsmokingAddthesageleavesandcookfor1ndash2minutesuntiltheygoadarkshadeofgreenandarecrispDrainonkitchenpaperandkeepinawarmplacePassthesoupthroughafinesieveintoacleanpanandreheatgentlyDecantintoservingbowlsdustwiththetandoorispiceandgarnisheachportionwithacrispsageleafandagenerousdrizzleofwalnutoil

ClarifiedButterMelt250gunsaltedbutterinapanoveralowheatuntilthebutterhasseparatedGentlypourintoatallclearjugandleavetosettleWhenithasformedthreelayers(whitefrothytopclearyellowmiddleandwhitesolids)startskimmingTheaimistokeepasmuchoftheclearmiddlelayeraspossiblewhileremovingallofthemilksolidsUsingasmallladleskimoffthetoplayeranddiscardSlowlypourthebutterfatintoacleansaucepanleavingallthewhitemilksolidsbehind(discardthese)daggerThehistoryofsquashisratherinterestingMostvegetablefoodsleavenoarchaeologicaltracessquashisarareexceptionEvidencesuggeststhatitwasfirstcultivatedinCentralAmericamorethan8000yearsagoItisbelievedthattheEnglishwordforlsquosquashrsquoderivesfromthenativeAmericanwordaskutasquashwhichmeanslsquoeatenraworuncookedrsquoThisisasomewhatsurprisingchoiceofnamegiventhatsquashiscertainlynotatitsbestwheneatenrawItisevidentwhysquashwasastaplefoodbackthenitiseasytogrowhighincarbohydratesanddependablyversatileWhenitwaslatertransportedbytheSpanishconquistadorestoEuropeitwasinitiallyrejectedforbeingtooblandThefruit(foritisafruitratherthanavegetable)waslaterrediscoveredasitbecameknownforstoringwellandprovidingtheenergyrequiredforaharddayrsquosgraftinthecolderEuropeanclimate

Salt-bakedCeleriacPortobelloMushroomandAppleSoup

CeleriacrsquoscloserelationshiptoceleryisthereasonitispossibletodetecthintsofceleryinwhatwouldotherwisebeanuttyearthytastecommontorootvegetablesThisknobblyvegetableisnotverycommonoutsideEuropeWeliketoregarditasahiddengemItsdelicateaniseednotescoupledwithatouchofparsleyareintriguingandneverdisappointingInthisrecipewepairitwithPortobellomushroomstoenhancetheearthinessinherentintheceleriacAppleandceleryareaclassiccombinationandbeingsurroundedbyover70differentvarietiesofapplesattheWalledGardenwecouldnotresistthisadditionWefindthattheapplecomplementsthesoftcitrushintspresentinthisuglyducklingoftherootvegetableworldremarkablywell

SERVES8

125kgceleriac100gcoarseseasalt500gonionsslicedrapeseedoilbutter125gcarrotssliced250gPortobellomushroomssliced500mlwhitechickenstock(seehere)125gBlenheimOrange(orBramley)appleflakyseasaltwhitepepper

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6Peeltheceleriacandcutitinto4ndash6cmchunksItcanbedeterminedtoholditsformsogoeasywithyourhandsaroundtheknifeScatterthecoarsesaltoverabakingtrayandplacetheceleriacchunksontopCoverthetraywithaluminiumfoilsealingitwellaroundtheedgesBakefor30ndash45minutesuntiltheceleriacbeginstosoftenThesaltwillextractsomeofthemoistureandtheflavourwillintensify

Inalargesaucepansweattheonionsinalittlerapeseedoilandbutteruntil

InalargesaucepansweattheonionsinalittlerapeseedoilandbutteruntilsoftenedRemovetheceleriacfromthesaltbrushingawayanythathasstucktoit(thesaltcanbeusedagainforbakingvegetablesinthesamemanner)Addtheceleriaccarrotsmushroomschickenstockand500mlwatertotheonionsandbringtoasimmerCookfor30minutesoruntilthevegetablesarejustsofttothepointofaknife

PeelandgratetheappleLadlethesoupintoablenderfillingitonlyhalffullandblitzuntilsmoothPasstheblendedsoupthroughasieveintoacleanpanreturninganythingtoocoarsetotheremainingunblendedsoupBlendtheremainingsoupaddingthegratedapplethenstrainitintothepanandreheatgentlyTheapplewillremainafreshflavourifyouadditatthispointSeasonwithsaltandcrackedwhitepepperthenserve

Deep-friedAuberginewithRoseHipSyrup

WiththeirtannedskinandMediterraneanlooksyouwouldbeforgivenforthinkingthatauberginesgrowonlyinwarmerclimatesWhilsttheydorequireacertainamountofwarmthandwatertheyareperfectlyabletothriveinBritishsoilinthesummerndashorindoorswhenthetemperaturedropsTheybelongtothesamenightshadefamilyaspotatoesandtomatoesandarenotvegetablesinbotanicaltermsbutenormousberriesThegentlemenofthenightshadefamilytheyarerarelyassertiveInsteadtheyliketoblendwiththeirsurroundingsofferingasmoothdelicateflavourEveniftheirpresencesometimesbordersonthesideoffleshyitisstillwonderfullyunderstatedDespitetheoccasionalhintofbitternesstheyarefartoogoodmanneredforthistobecomeinsultingndashwhichisnottosaythattheyareblandsimplythattheyseektocomplementtheircompanionsratherthanimposeonthemSomewouldcallthisversatilityWefrytheauberginesinthisdishtoemphasisethecreaminessoftheir

fleshThepairingwithrosehipisintendedtoinjectsomeintensityofflavourthesyrupmagnificentlycounteractingtheslightbitternessintheaubergineWewouldrecommendexperimentingwiththeamountyouaddWestronglysuspectthataddinganindecentamountofsyruponthisoccasioncanonlybegoodforthesoulThereisstilllikelytobesomeleftoverItwillkeepforayearinasterilisedjarandcanbeservedwithDuckTerrine(seehere)orRabbitConfit(seehere)andisalsoverygoodwiththebrowniesonhere

SERVES4ndash62aubergines1litrerapeseedoilfordeep-fryingcornflourfordustingseasaltsheeprsquossorrelorcommonsorrelleavestoserve

FORTHEROSEHIPSYRUP

400grosehips375gcastersugar

Cuttheauberginesinto8cm-longchipsroughly5mmthickPlacethemin

Cuttheauberginesinto8cm-longchipsroughly5mmthickPlacetheminalargebowlandsaltlightlyensuringanevencoatingCoverandsetasidefor1hour

PuttherosehipsinafoodprocessorandblitzonfullspeeduntiltheyarecompletelybrokendownTransferthemtoasaucepanadd650mlwaterandbringtotheboilRemovefromtheheatandleavetoinfusefor20minutesTransferthemixturetoasievelinedwith2layersofwetmuslinsetoverabowlLeaveforabout30minutesuntilalltheliquidhasdrainedthroughPourtheliquidintoapanaddthesugarandbringtotheboilstirringtodissolvethesugarBoilfor5minutesoruntilreducedtoasyrupyconsistencythensetasidetocoolalittle

Heattherapeseedoilto170degCinalargedeepsaucepanoradeep-fatfryerWhiletheoilisheatinglightlycoattheaubergineincornflourFryinthehotoilinsmallbatchesforabout2minutesuntilcrispandlightlygoldenRemovefromtheoilusingaslottedspoonanddrainonkitchenpaperKeepwarmwhileyoucontinuethroughtheremainingbatchesensuringtheoilstayscloseto170degC

Arrangetheaubergineonservingplatesdresswiththerosehipsyrupandscatteroverthesheeprsquossorrelleavesifusing

daggerAuberginesarenotinfactaMediterraneanvegetabletheyoriginatedinIndiaandareknowntohavebeenpartoftheChinesedietfromasearlyasthefifthcenturyWehavetheArabstothankfortheintroductionofauberginesintoEuropehavingbeenbroughttoSicilyintheeleventhcenturyFoodwriterssuchasElizabethDavidplayedalargepartinintroducingthemtotheUKinthemid-1950s

PearNativeNapeHazelnutCardamomandEwersquosCheeseSalad

AutumnoffersusalotofpearvarietiesintheWalledGardenComiceandAnjoucanbeseenfromthewest-facingwindowsoftheglasshousewhilegrowingontheothersideofthewallintheorchardnearourbelovedquincetreeisalesser-knownvarietyBeurredrsquoAvalonIthasfirmwhitejuicyfleshwithaninitialsweetnessthatendsslightlysourItisspecifictoSomersetanditsnameisrootedinthemythologyofGlastonburyandlegendsofKingArthurFirstfoundintheareaaroundGlastonburyToritwasfinallyrecordedafewyearslaterin1842DuringthethirteenthcenturythenamesofAvalonandGlastonburybegantooverlapandstoriesweretoldofKingArthurdyingontheislandofAvalonThisislandhasalsobeenassociatedinCeltichistorywithapplesAllofthesethreadsofmythhistoryandnamingoffruithavebecomewovenintooneanotherThispearhasanequalflavourpartnerinFosseWayFleececheeseAhard

ewersquoscheesewithaclosesmooth-bodiedtextureandagentlenuttinessitismadebyPhilipRainbowandAnitaRobinsonoftheSomersetCheeseCompanyYoucanmaturethischeesetointensifyitsflavourwrapitinnon-stickbakingpaperandstoreinthesaladdrawerofthefridgeThekeyistokeepitinaplacewherethereislittleaircirculationsoitdoesnrsquotdryoutCheckiteveryfewdaysandwipeawayanymouldthatbuildsupNativeNapeisanair-curedhammadebyNativeBreedswhichproduces

someofthefinestcharcuteriewehavecomeacrossItisrunbyGrahamandRuthWaddingtonwhosourcenativeandrare-breedanimalsfromsmallfarmsinGloucestershiretomaketheiraward-winningproductsWedressthesaladwithcardamomandtruffledhoneyfromaBritish

companycalledTruffleHunter

SERVES4

200gNativeNapecuredham(orothergoodair-curedham)200gagedFosseWayFleececheese(orotheragedewersquoscheese)cutintoshavings

1largepearpreferablyBeurredrsquoAvaloncoredandslicedwaferthinonamandoline

40ghazelnutsroughlycrushed

40ghazelnutsroughlycrushed

FORTHEDRESSING

4tbspvintagecidervinegarsuchasOstlerrsquos2tspDijonmustard1tspgroundcardamom1tbsptruffledhoneyfrac14tspxanthangum(optionalbutrecommended)frac12tspfineseasalt100mlrapeseedoil

Tomakethedressingputalltheingredientsexcepttheoilinablenderandblitzfor30secondsSlowlypourintheoilwhiletheblenderisrunningasyouwouldformayonnaiseOncealltheoilhasbeenincorporatedblitzfor1minuteIfyouaremakingthisinadvancedecantintoasuitablebottleShakewellbeforeusing

PuttingthesaladtogethercouldnrsquotbeeasierDecorativelyarrangethehamsliceson4servingplatesandarrangetheshavedewersquoscheeseamongstthemAddtheslicesofpearlightlydresswiththedressingandscatterthecrushedhazelnutsoverthetop

PreservedDuckLegChorizoButterBeanandConfitTomatoPotStewwithYinYangBeans

InspiredbytheFrenchcassouletthispotstewisamixtureofallourfavouritethingsInsteadofharicotsweusebutterbeansfortheirfluffytextureandmildmineralflavourWealsoaddchorizomakingthissimilartotheSpanishstewsyouwouldfindinAsturiasMadebyVinceCastellanosourchorizoissublimewiththetomatoesandbeansWeserveourpotstewwithconfitducklegsalsoacomponentofthehallowedcassouletWetreatthetomatoesinthisrecipeinasimilarmannerroastingthemslowlyinalightcoatingofrapeseedoilwithplentyofseasoningWeareveryfondofthismethodofpreservinganditmaywellbecomeoneofyourfavouritestooTheyinyangorcaorcalypsobeanisaMexicanheirloomvarietythought

tobeover300yearsoldthatispassedaroundcarefullybygardenerswithawarningtotakecareofitandhelppreventitsdemiseItsdrought-resistantgrowingqualitiesshowwhyitishighlyvaluedconsistentlycroppingyearonyearServethestewwithanauthenticsourdoughloafndashitsdrytexturewillbe

perfectformoppingupthejuicesndashandabottleofPerryrsquosTremlettciderYouwillunderstandwhywerecommendthisciderthemomentaftertheheadyfarmsilagetastepassesandoddlyyouwanttodrinkthewholebottleinoneContraryforcesareinterconnectedandinterdependentinthenaturalworldaccordingtotheConceptofyinandyangandthiscidercertainlyembodiesthat

SERVES4

200gceleriac200gonionsrapeseedoil4garlicclovesfinelychopped4cookingchorizosausages300gbutterbeanssoakedfor24hoursin2changesofwaterthendrained500mlhamhockbroth(seehere)orwhitechickenstock(seehere)300mlcider

1teaspoonpar-cel(seehere)or1tbspchoppedceleryleaf4ConfitDuckLegs(seehere)100gyinyangbeans(ifunavailableusebroadbeansfreshpeasorsugarsnapscookedinboilingwaterfor1minutethendrained)

100gConfitTomatoes(seehere)cidervinegarseasalt

Heattheovento160degCGasMark3Peeltheceleriacandcutitinto2cmchunksChoptheonionstoroughlythesamesizeHeatalittlerapeseedoilinalargecasseroleaddtheceleriaconionsandgarlicandcookgentlyuntilsoftenedAddthechorizosausagesbutterbeanshamhockbrothciderandparcelBringtotheboilthenplacetheducklegsonthesurfaceCoverthecasseroletransfertotheovenandbakefor1frac34hoursAddtheyinyangbeansandthetomatoesandbakefor15minuteslongeroruntilthebeansaretenderSeasonwithsaltandcidervinegartotaste

daggerAcasserolemeanslsquoalargepotrsquotoustodayandformanyofusthatconstitutesacast-ironLeCreusetinheritedfromourparentsseasonedandcaredforWithinthispreciouspotmeatvegetablesandliquidareslowlycookedwiththelidonuntileverythingistenderandcaramelisedSetuponthetableitisservedstraighttotheplateeveryonefightingoverthecrunchyburntedgesElizaActonandMrsBeetonofferedrecipesforcasserolesveryunlikethekindwemaketodayincludingcuriousaffairsofricecrushedtoapasteandsmoothedtotheoutsideofthepan

WoodPigeonBreastswithPersianSpicedBulgarWheatCucumberAniseedandBlackCabbage

AtBarleyWoodthepigeonsarequitehappygrazingthecropscultivatedbythelocalfarmerandMarkthegardenerintheWringtonValeInautumntheyalsoenjoychestnutsandacornsandwheneveryoudisturbapairtheyclatterupwardstakingoffintothewindFromtheglasshouseyouseethemriseintothesouthwesterlytowardsCrookPeakWelovepigeonmeatCookedrareitisirresistiblewitharichredhue

thatistheresultofthisbirdrsquosabilitytotravelvastdistanceswithoutresting

WeserveitwithbulgarwheatseasonedwithourownspiceblendInIranthespicemixwouldbecalledadviehamixtureofspiceschosenfortheiruseinaparticulardishwithinfinitecombinationsTheancientSilkRoutetravelledthoughthenorthofIranandleftitsculinarylegacyCooksintheuplandsandthenorthwesternareasoftenincorporatethedelicatefragranceofdriedrosepetalsintotheiradviehWehavecombinedallspiceturmericcinnamonblackpeppersaffronraisinsandpistachiostomakeablendthatcomplementspigeonperfectlyWeservethisdishwithcrispblackcabbage(cavolonero)flash-friedin

rapeseedoilandcidervinegarwithapinchofcuminItiswithoutdoubtourfavouritewayofservingthisbrassicaFinallywegarnishthedishwithcucumberandanisebuttermilkTraditionallymilkwouldhavebeenleftovernighttoseparatesocreamcouldbechurnedintobutterWhatremainedwasthebuttermilkThickerthanmilkandthinnerthancreamithasasourtangthatisjustwonderfulwiththesweetcucumberandtherichspiceoftherestofthedishIfyoucannotfindbuttermilkthensouredcreamwillworkverywelltooJaneGrigsonwroteinEnglishFood(Macmillan1974)lsquoNocookery

belongsexclusivelytoitscountryoritsregionCooksborrowndashalwayshaveborrowedndashandadaptthroughthecenturiesrsquoWecertainlyhave

SERVES4100mlbuttermilkorGreek-styleyoghurtalittlerapeseedoil8woodpigeonbreastsskinned200gblackcabbage(cavolonero)stalksremovedapinchofgroundcumin1tbspcidervinegarflakyseasalt

FORTHESWEETPICKLEDCUCUMBER

1smallcucumbercutinto1cmdicefineseasaltcidervinegarcastersugar1tspaniseed

1tspaniseed

FORTHEPERSIANSPICEDBULGARWHEAT

300gbulgarwheat2tspsalt1frac12tbspgroundallspice1frac12tbspgroundcinnamon1tspgroundturmeric1tspgroundblackpepper6saffronstamens20graisins50gshelledroastedpistachionuts

Forthepickledcucumberweighthecucumbercubesthenlightlysaltthemandleavetodrainfor1hour

MeasureoutthesameweightofvinegarasthecucumberthendothesamewiththecastersugarPutthevinegarandsugarinasaucepanaddtheaniseedandbringtotheboilstirringtodissolvethesugarRemovefromtheheatandleavetocoolRinseanyresidualsaltfromthecucumberandmixitwiththevinegarandsugarsolutionStoreinthefridge(youwonrsquotneeditallforthisrecipebuttheremainderwillkeepfor4weeksandcanbeusedasasaladgarnishorasanaccompanimenttoaburger)Combine50gofthepickledcucumberwiththebuttermilkstirwellandrefrigeratetillneeded

Putalltheingredientsforthebulgarwheatinasaucepanadd600mlwaterandstiruntilcombinedPlaceoveramediumheatcoverandbringtotheboilReducetheheattoitslowestsettingandcookforabout30minutesoruntilthewheathasabsorbedalltheliquidStirtocheckithasnotcaughtonthebottomofthepanKeepwarmwhileyoucookthepigeonHeattheovento200degCGasMark6andputabakingsheetinittoheatupPlaceaheavy-basedfryingpanoverahighheatuntilitisreallyhotSplashadropofrapeseedoilontoeachpigeonbreastandrubitoveritDustlightlywithflakyseasaltTakethebakingsheetoutoftheovenLay4ofthepigeonbreastsinthefryingpanandcookfornolongerthan30secondspersideuntillightlybrownedPlacethemonthebakingsheetCleanthepanbrieflywithawadofkitchenpaperandrepeatwiththe4remainingbreastsPut

withawadofkitchenpaperandrepeatwiththe4remainingbreastsPutthemintheovenandcookfor2frac12minutesforpinkandperfectlycookedor3minutesformediumTransferthemtoaboardtorestwhileyoucooktheblackcabbage

HeatalittlerapeseedoilinafryingpanaddthecabbagecuminandalittlesaltandfryuntiljustheatedthroughAddthecidervinegarthesteamfromthevinegarwillcookthecabbageinafewsecondsOncetheliquidhasevaporatedtipthecontentsintoawarmservingdish

SlicethepigeonbreastsandserveaccompaniedbythecabbageandbulgarwheatalongwithaspoonfulofthebuttermilkdressingWarnyourfellowdinerstobemindfulofanyleadshotthatmaybehiddeninthebreasts

daggerHistoricallyeatenbythearistocracyandnotcommonersupuntiltheseventeenthcenturyonlythelordofthemanorwaspermittedtobuildadovecoteThesestructureswereoftenimpressiveandmanyresembleourciderbarnwhichisofroundNormandesignThedovemanurewouldhavebeenusedasfertilisernotanapproachthatiscommonlypractisedtoday

ChickenMole

Theintricaciesofmole(pronouncedlsquomo-layrsquo)werenotfullyunderstoodbyusuntilMatthewandPaucirclacamebackfromavisittoPaucirclarsquoslargeboisterousfamilyinMexicoItwasamemorableexperienceinwhichtheyhadeatensomeformofchilliateverysinglemealBreakfastwasnotsparedfromthisjoyfulandsometimespainfulchillimarathonItwasinfactthemostimportantmealofthedaythechoiceofchillibeingparamountForMexicanschilliisasimportantassaltandpepperItisanessentialmeansofseasoningandlackofchilliinamealisfrowneduponunlessyouareaveryyoungchildpracticallyababyItwasblissCapsaicinisthechemicalfoundinchilliesthatmakesthemspicyItis

believedtostimulatetheproductionofendorphinsinthebraincausingsomepeopletofeelasenseofeuphoriawheneatingspicyfoodswhichcanbecomemildlyaddictiveForMatthewandPaucirclaitwascertainlyalotoffuntopushtheendorphinboundariesthroughtheconsumptionofendlesschilliestimeandtimeagainTheirwithdrawalsymptomsstartedbecomingapparentthemomenttheysteppedofftheplaneandwerefacedwithanoverlysweetbreakfastcerealSobackinTheEthicureankitchenaplanwassetinmotiontoattempttocrackthequintessentialMexicanchillichocolatedishwithasmanyBritishingredientsaspossibleThewordlsquomolersquocomesfromthepre-hispanicNahuatlmeaninglsquosaucersquoIt

isunlikelythattheAztecsaddedanychocolatetotheirmolesauceoriginallyndashitwassimplyacombinationofchilliesWithtimeeachregioninMexicodevelopeditsownmoleandtherearenowamultitudeofcolourfulversionsrangingfromredtogreenandevenapinkonefromthetownofTaxcoTheMexicanestateofOaxacaalonehassevendifferentversionsofmolePaucirclarsquosgrandmothertookthelaborioustaskofcookingmolevery

seriouslyHercollectionofspicesstoodinjarsonthekitchenshelvesreadytobecalledintoactionTheaimwastomakeathickshimmerysauceandyouknewitwasreadythemomentthespoonwasabletostandupinitonitsownEpazoteisahighlypopularherbinMexicancookingManypeople

considerittobeaweedsoitisveryeasytogrowevenintheUKYoushouldbeabletobuyseedsonlinebutifyouprefernottogrowititispossibletobuyitasadriedherbtooAlternativelyyoucansubstitutewintersavory

savoryItishighlylikelythatyouwonrsquotbeabletogetthechillieslistedinthis

recipeatyourlocalsupermarketDonotbeputoffbythisTheyarewellworthtrackingdownandasimplesearchonlinewillrevealseveralsuppliersHavingthemdeliveredtoyourdoorwillsaveyouatriptotheshopsMoleistraditionallyservedwithturkeyorchickenThebrinefor

seasoningthechickenhastobemadeinadvanceasitneedstobechilledItwillkeepindefinitelyinthefridgesomakeitatyourleisure

SERVES8

2free-rangechickensfrac12garlicheadrapeseedoil8mulatochillies8guajillochillies4anchochilliesadashofcidervinegar1kgtomatoes300gonionschopped4slicesofstalebreadcutintosmallcubes150gdriedcobnutsorhazelnutsfinelygroundinafoodprocessor150gunsaltedpeanutsfinelygroundinafoodprocessor150graisins1tspgroundallspicefrac12tspgroundclovesfrac12tspgroundcumin1tbspdriedepazote(or2tbspfreshepazote)2litresbrownchickenstock(seehere)1tbspsalt150gdarkchocolatewith75ndash80percentcocoasolids50gmuscovadosugar

FORTHE8PERCENTBRINE

80gsalt80gdarkmuscovadosugar

80gdarkmuscovadosugar1tbspdriedepazote(or2tbspfreshepazote)1bayleaf

TOFINISH

16ndash24corntortillas4tbspsesameseedsfriedinadryfryingpanuntillightlycoloured4tbspcoarselychoppedcoriander

Putallthebrineingredientsinapanwith1litreofwaterandbringtotheboilLeavetocooltoroomtemperaturethenchill

RemovetheskinfromthechickensandsetasideCutthebreastsandlegsfromthechickensthendividethelegsintodrumsticksandthighs(keepthecarcassesforstockseehere)Placethethighsdrumsticksandbreastsinthebrineandleavefor2hours

MeanwhilemakethesauceHeattheovento180degCGasMark4Wrapthegarlicinfoilwithasplashofrapeseedoilandbakefor20minutesLeavetocoolandthensqueezeouttheroastedpulpBreakopenthedriedchilliesandremovetheseedsRehydratethechilliesbyplacingtheminabowlofhotwaterwithadashofvinegarandleavingtocoolDrainandchopfinelytryingnottostainyourfingersasthecapsaicinwillremain

Scoreeachtomatowithacrossonthebaseputtheminapanofsimmeringwaterfor2minutesthendrainandpeelofftheloosenedskinsChopthetomatoesroughlykeepingallthejuiceandseedsseparatelyPourtheseedsandjuicethroughafinesieveintoabowlreservingthejuice

Dividethechickenskinbetween2hotfryingpansandcookuntilitisbrownandthefathasbeenreleasedDiscardtheskinbutkeepthefatinthepansAddtheonionsbreadnutsandraisinstoonepanandthetomatoesandtheirjuicechilliesspicesandepazotetotheotherOncetheonionsarebeginningtocolourtransferthemixturetoalargesaucepanandaddthechickenstockLetthetomatoescontinuetocookuntiltheyarebrokendownaddingasplashofwaterifthemixturestartstolookdryTransferthetomatoestothesaucepanalongwiththesaltAddthechocolateroastgarlicandsugarstirthensimmerwiththelidofffor45minutesoruntil

andsugarstirthensimmerwiththelidofffor45minutesoruntilthickenedstirringregularly

Meanwhilepoachthebrinedchickeninalargepanofbarelysimmeringwaterfor35minutesThewatershouldhardlybemovingresultinginsucculentpaleandmoistchickenWarmthetortillasPuttheminabasketandcoverwithadamphotteatoweltoretaintheheatandkeepthempliableStripthechickenmeatofftheboneandserveonthetortillastoppedwithlashingsofmolethenscatteroverthetoastedsesameandcoriander

VenisonCiderandQuinceStewwithHerbedButterDumplings

AsthecropsareharvestedthestubbledfieldsspelltheendoffieldcoverfortheroedeerSoontheleaveswillbegintocolouranddropmakingitmoredifficultforthemtohidefromthestalkerTheruthasfinishedandbucksnolongerfixatedonmatingarealittletheworseforwearandlackinginenergyFamilygroupsbegintoformastheterritorialactivityoflatesummersubsidesTheyhavespentthepreviousmonthsfatteningthemselvesforthecomingwinterandasthefarmersmovethecattlefromthepasturesaroundBarleyWooditseemsagoodtimetobringhomearoebuckForstewingweusetheneckorshoulderndashdonrsquotcombinethemasthecookingtimewillvaryTheneckcontainsafairamountofconnectivetissuewhichwillneed

varyTheneckcontainsafairamountofconnectivetissuewhichwillneedslowcookingtotenderiseitThisisarecipewemakebeforeadayrsquospickingintheorchardndashonefora

weekendwhenyoursquoretidyingthegardenbeforewinterorjustrelaxingCookingthevenisoninciderisidealastheaciditydoesmarvellousthingsAstewneedsanighttocooldownslowlysothatthemeatreabsorbsitsjuicesbecomingmoresucculentNostewcanpossiblybeservedwithoutdumplingsWersquoveoftencaught

JackeatingthemallontheirownwhenwersquovemadetoomanyTheyareverywelcomeduringautumnwhenweneedatouchmorestodgeElizaActonHannahGlasseandConstanceSprygivenumerousrecipesforSuffolkandNorfolkdumplingsandthemainstyleseemstobeforalsquoharddumplingrsquothatcontainsneithersuetnorbutterWemakeourfluffydumplingswithflourbutterandeggsandtheyresemblethoseeatenincentralEuropeChoppedfreshherbsaddfragrance

SERVES6ndash8

200ggoosefat12kgvenisonneckorshouldercutinto3ndash4cmchunks900gredonions450gcarrots225gceleriac2quinces600mlbeefstock(seehere)300mlcider1bayleaf8sprigsofthyme1tbspjuniperberries1tbspdriedpineappleweed(optional)togarnishcidervinegarseasaltandblackpepper

FORTHEHERBEDBUTTERDUMPLINGS

390gself-raisingflour3eggs105gsaltedbutterdiced

105gsaltedbutterdiced1frac12tspsalt2tbspchoppedmixedherbssuchassagethymeparsleyandmintafewtbspdoublecreamblackpepper

Heatsomeofthegoosefatinalargeheavy-basedfryingpanandfrythepiecesofvenisoninsmallbatchesuntilcolouredallovertransferringthemtoalargecasseroleastheyaredoneCuttheonionscarrotsandceleriacintolargechunksndashtheyshouldbetoobigtoeatinonemouthfulastheyaregoingtospendalongtimeinthestewColourtheminthepaninwhichthemeatwasbrownedaddingmoregoosefatasnecessary(thegenerousamountoffatisneededforthisrecipeasvenisonisaleanmeat)Addthevegetablestothecasserole

WashthesoftdowncoatingoffthequincesandthencoreandchopthemtheiraromawillbepineapplerichAddtothecasserolewithalltheremainingingredientsexceptthepineappleweedvinegarandseasoningThecasseroleneedstogointheovenbutdonrsquotpreheatitasitbenefitsfromareallyslowriseintemperatureasHaroldMcGeeadvisesinhisseminalbookOnFoodandCooking(seeboxopposite)Starttheovenat95degC(orthelowestpossiblesettinginagasoven)puttingthecasseroleinwiththelidofftothesideslightlytoallowsomeevaporationThiswillslowlyraisetheinternaltemperatureto50degCLeavefor2hoursthenincreasetheoventemperatureto120degCGasMarkfrac12whichshouldincreasethetemperatureto80degCCookfor1ndash2hourswiththelidstillaskewthentestthemeatfortendernesswithaknifeKeepcheckingathalf-hourintervalsuntilyouaresatisfieditistenderenoughTastethesauceanddecideifyouwouldliketoreduceittoconcentratetheflavourTodothisremovethemeatandvegetablesfromthecasseroleandsetasidePlacethesauceoverahighheatandletitsimmervigorouslyforabout5minutesuntilslightlyreducedinvolumeTasteanddecideifthisstrengthsuitsyouRepeatuntiltheflavourisasyoulikeitthenseasonwithsaltpepperandadashofcidervinegarReturnthemeatandvegetablestothecasseroleandleavetocoolovernightthenchillitinthefridgethenextmorningItwillbereadyafteragentlereheatwhilethedumplingsarebeingmade

Tomakethedumplingssifttheflourintoafoodprocessorandaddtheeggs

TomakethedumplingssifttheflourintoafoodprocessorandaddtheeggsbuttersaltherbsandblackpepperProcessuntilthemixtureresemblesbreadcrumbsthenwiththemachinestillrunningslowlypourinenoughcreamtoformadoughLettheprocessorturnforacoupleofminutestostretchthedoughItshouldbefluffywithaslightlytackyexteriorandbreakaparteasilyIfnotaddadashmorecreamandmixagainTakethedoughoutandshapeinto25cmballsKeepcoveredbeforecookingthem

Poachthedumplingsinalargepanoffast-boilingwaterinbatchesof8ItisessentialthatthewaterisboilingrapidlysotheyfluffupquicklyTheywillfloattothesurfaceastheybegintocookCookforafurther2minutesfromthispointthenremovewithaslottedspoonServethedumplingsdroppedintothattoothsometenderstewwithalightdustingofthechamomilerelativepineappleweedroughlychoppedifyouhaveany

HaroldMcGeemakessomeinterestingpointsonstewingmeatinhisbookOnFoodandCooking(HodderampStoughton2004seehere)ThemoreamuscleisusedthemorecollagenitwillcontainandthetougheritwillbeButwhenyouheatcollagento70ndash80degCitisconvertedintogelatinewhichissoftwobblyeasilydissolvedandkeepsmeatbeautifullytenderHoweveratthistemperaturealthoughthecollagenisconvertedintogelatineyoualsolosemoisturewhichmakesthemeatdrierMcGeersquosmethodthereforeadvocateskeepingthemeatbelow50degCforalongtimewhichweakensthecollagenthenquicklyraisingthetemperaturewhenthemeatisalmostcookedtoconvertthecollagenintogelatineThiswillretainmoreofthemoisturethanifthemeathadstayedataconstant80degCthroughouttheentirecookingtimeItsoundscomplicatedbutinrealityitisjustthescientificexplanationoftheslow-cookingtechniquewehaveusedforhundredsofyears

QUINCE

ApplesandquincegrowsidebysideinourorchardweonlyhaveonequincetreeanditscropisprizedbyusThesebrightyellowfruitresembleaplumppearandtheyhaveadownyfurthatgrowsontheirskinTheirperfumeisfreshandfloweryandistheresultoflactonesandviolet-likeiononescontainedintheskin(seeHaroldMcGeeOnFoodandCookingpage357)Intheprocessofstewingthetanninsarebrokenupandasaresultthemellowflavourandapple-liketextureofquincecanbeenjoyed

FishSoupwithSpicedHeritageTomatoesFennelSeedandEnglishTruffleOilToast

ThissoupisaquesttocombinetwoofourmajorobsessionscurryspicesandtrufflesAtfirstthismightseemanunlikelymarriageReasondictatesthatthesestrongflavourshavethepotentialtooverpoweranysoupHoweverthefinessearisingfromtheuseofheirloomtomatoesmakesthewholedishaharmoniousspice-infusedaffairHeirloomvarietieshavedesirablecharacteristicsthathavebeenpasseddownforgenerationsandtheyarefarsuperiorintastetoblandcommercialvarietiesToaddfreshtrufflestothissoupmightbeconsiderednotonlyextravagant

butdownrightcavalierInsteadweuseadashoftruffleoilforboththesoupandthetoastTruffleHunterbasedintheCotswoldsmakesanoilfromEnglishrapeseedoilandEnglishblacksummertrufflesthatisgoodenoughtomatchitsItaliancounterpartsTheresultisawarmingterracotta-colouredvelvetysoupthatwillinspireanyonetoheadouttotheBritishcountrysideinsearchofthatcovetedEnglishtruffleTrainingofOchoourresidentdoghascommencedItrsquosbesttoavoidoilyfishsuchasmackerelsalmonortunahereInstead

sticktowhitefishsuchaslingsole(lemonDoverwitchordab)pollockandcuttlefishSquidalsoworkswellandfromasustainabilitypointofviewisregardedasoneofbestfishtoeatndashparticularlyifyoucanfindsquidfromsmallseasonalBritishfisheries

SERVES4

500gtomatoes(thebestyoucanfind)rapeseedoil450gonionsroughlychopped250mlfishstock(seehere)4garliccloveschopped2heapedtbspDijonmustard400gwhitefishfilletsskinonandcleanedsquidcutinto25cmpieces1tspgroundturmeric

FORTHESPICEBLEND

2tspfennelseeds

2tspfennelseeds1tspaniseed1tspcorianderseeds2blackcardamompods15gsalt1tspgroundcinnamon1tspgroundcardamomfrac12tbspgroundturmeric

TOFINISH

250gsourdoughbreadcutintoslices25cmthickrapeseedoiltruffleoil1tspnigella(blackonion)seeds1tspfennelseedscrushedcoarseseasalt

Tomakethespiceblendheattheseedsandcardamominadryfryingpanfor2ndash3minutestoreleasetheiroilsCrushthemfinelyinapestleandmortarwiththesaltthenstirinthegroundspices

Scoreacrossonthebaseofeachtomatoputtheminapanofboilingwaterfor2minutesthendrainandpeelofftheskinsQuarterthetomatoesandscoopouttheseedsandjuiceintoasievesetoverabowlPressontheseedswiththebackofaspoontoensureyougetasmuchjuiceaspossiblethendiscardthem

HeatalittlerapeseedoilinalargepanaddtheonionsandcookuntilsoftenedbutnotcolouredStirinthespiceblendandcookforafewminutesthenaddthetomatoesandtheirjuicefishstockgarlicmustardand250mlwaterBringtoasimmerandcookcoveredfor40minutesPureacuteethesoupinablenderorfoodprocessorandthenpourintoacleanpanthroughafinesievetocatchanylargespicepiecesReheatgently

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6CutthesourdoughslicesintosquaresandtosstheminabowlwithadrizzleofrapeseedoilandanevensmallerdrizzleofthepungenttruffleoilAddsomecoarsesaltshakethroughonce

drizzleofthepungenttruffleoilAddsomecoarsesaltshakethroughoncemorethenspreadoutonabakingsheetandbakefor7ndash8minutesuntilgoldenalloverKeepthetoastsomewherewarmwhilethefishisfried

Placealargenon-stickfryingpanoveramediumheatAddasplashofrapeseedoiltothehotpanthenfrythefishforabout3minutesuntilithascolouredslightlythendustwiththeturmericandfryfornolongerthanaminutemore

LadlethesoupintobowlsdividethefriedfishandsquidbetweenthemanddrizzleasmidgenmoretruffleoilontopFinishwithafewnigellaseedsandcrushedfennelseeds

TRUFFLES

TrufflesaretheendearinglyshymembersofthefungusfamilyUnliketheirbrashovergroundrelativeswhoexplodeinamyriadofshapesandsizesunfazedbythethoughtofbeingspottedbyakeenmycophiletrufflesrsquointroverteddemeanourfindsthemdeepundergroundhavingformedanamicablerelationshipwiththerootsofasuitabletreeFranceandItalyarepopularareasfortrufflehuntersbuttheycancertainlybefoundinBritainin

limestoneorchalkareasupanddownthecountryTheRoyalBotanicalRecordsatKewdocumenttruffleshavingbeenfoundinourlocalareaThetraditionalwaytofindthemuch-prizedfungiisthroughtheuseofpigsalthoughdogsarenowmuch

morecommonlyusedEnglishtrufflescanbefoundfromJulyallthroughthewinter

Slow-braisedGoatrsquosLegwithCiderShallotsLentilsandGlazedCarrots

DuringautumnmuchofthegoatthatweusecomesfromStawleyFarminWellingtonOntheir20acresoflandCarolineAtkinsonmakesafreshcheeseusingrawmilkfromthegoatsfarmedbyherhusbandWillKiddingndashthegoatequivalentoflambingndashtakesplacearoundAprilThebillieswiththeirobviouslackofmilkingpotentialaredestinedforourpotAtthebeginningofautumntheyarearound5monthsoldandweigh10ndash12kgThelegsarejustrightforgentlebraisingTheprinciplesofstewingdiscussedonherearejustasrelevanttothisrecipeNotonlyisliquidaneffectivemeansoftransmittingheatbutitsflavourenhancesthefoodthatiscookedinitAttherestaurantMatthewandIainpressurecookthelegratherthan

braisingitintheovenBothcookingmethodswillgiveimmaculatelytendermeatthatfallsawayfromthebonePressurecookinghasitsownbenefitshowever(seehere)andwefinditthemostreliablewaytoachieveperfectionhereVeryfewingredientsarecookedwiththegoatbuttheshallotsandcarrots

playacrucialroleTheshallotsoffernaturalsugarsaswellassharpnessandasavouryflavourThecarrotsaretheirsidekickreleasingsugarsgraduallyduringtheslowcookingtimeWeservethegoatwithPuylentilswhichholdtheirtextureandhavea

uniquepepperyflavourWeusethesamevegetablesforboththelentilsandthebraiseWehonestlythinkgoathasnevertastedasgoodasitdoesinthisrecipeItisamealofclassiccleanflavoursfoodforthesoul

SERVES4ndash6rapeseedoil100gshallots(orspringonions)finelysliced200gcarrotsfinelysliced100gwhitemushroomsfinelysliced300mlmediumcidersuchasPerryrsquosMorganSweet500mlbrownchickenstock(seehere)2tbspcuminseeds

1tbspfineseasalt1goatrsquoslegshankremovedsoonlythethighremains

FORTHELENTILS

rapeseedoil150gonionsveryfinelydiced100gcarrotscutintosmallcubes50gbrownmushroomscutintosmallcubes350gPuylentils200mlbrownchickenstock(seehere)cidervinegarfineseasalt

FORTHEGLAZEDCARROTS

8ndash12small-mediumcarrotspeeledbutleftwhole125gunsaltedbuttercutinto25cmcubes1frac12tspfineseasalt1tbspcuminseeds1tbspcorianderseeds

TobraisethegoatpourathinfilmofrapeseedoilintoalargepressurecookerandplaceonahighheatAddtheshallotscarrotsandmushroomsandcookfor10ndash15minutesuntiltheybegintocolourDeglazethepanbyaddingtheciderandscrapinganystickybitsawayfromthebasewithawoodenspoonAddthechickenstockcuminseedssaltandthegoatrsquoslegPlacethelidonthepressurecookerandkeepoverahighheatWhenthecookerreachesfullpressureturntheheatdowntolowandmaintainatfullpressurefor2hoursRemovefromtheheatandallowtocoolnaturallywithoutventingthepressurecooker

Forthelentilsheatathinfilmofrapeseedoilinasaucepanaddthevegetablesandsweatfor5ndash10minutesuntilsoftenedAddthelentilsandstirthroughPourinthechickenstockadd550mlwaterandbringtotheboilCoverthepanreducetheheatandcookfor25ndash30minutesuntilthelentilsaretenderandhaveabsorbedalltheliquidSeasontotastewithfineseasaltandasmalldashofcidervinegarItisimportantnottosaltthelentilsbefore

andasmalldashofcidervinegarItisimportantnottosaltthelentilsbeforetheyarecookedortheywillbetoughandchewy

FortheglazedcarrotsputthecarrotsintoasaucepanjustlargeenoughtoholdtheminasinglelayerAddthebuttersaltandspicesandplaceoveramediumheatuntilthebutterhasmeltedTurntheheatdownalittlecoverandcookfor20ndash25minutesshakingthepanoccasionallyforevencookingWhenthecarrotsaresofttakeoffthelidandturntheheatuphightocaramelisethemlightlyRemovefromthepanandsetasidesomewherewarm

Afterthepressurecookerhascooledforatleast40minutesandthesafetylockhasreleasedremovethelidTakeoutthelegandleavetorestonaboardinawarmplaceStraintheliquidfromthepressurecookerthrough4layersofwetmuslinintoacleanpanThismayseemexcessiveanditisoptionalbutthestockwillformasauceandstraininghelpsremoveimpuritiesthatwouldcloudthesaucedetractingfromthefinaldish

SkimoffanyexcessfatfromtheliquidthenbringtotheboilandsimmeruntilreducedbyaboutathirdSeasonwithsalttotaste

ToservecarvethegoatrsquoslegandputitonservingplateswiththelentilsandcarrotsPouroveraliberalamountofthereducedbraisingliquidandfinishwithalittlesprinklingofseasalt

IfyoubraisethelegintheovenratherthanapressurecookercolourthevegetablesinalittlerapeseedoilinasaucepanoverafairlyhighheatthentransfertoaroastingtrayAddthegoatrsquoslegandenoughciderandchickenstocktocomeaboutathirdofthewayupitndashyoumayneedmoreliquidthanthequantitystatedaboveSeasonwiththeseasaltandcoverwith2layersoffoilPlaceinanovenpreheatedto120degCGasMarkfrac12androastfor4ndash5hoursuntilthemeatisimpeccablytenderCheckitevery30ndash45minutestoensurethereisstillenoughliquidtoppingupwithasplashmorechickenstockciderorwaterifnecessaryWhenyoumakethesaucetheliquidmayrequirereducingmorethanathirdtogetthecorrectflavoursokeep

reducingmorethanathirdtogetthecorrectflavoursokeeptastingitandstopwhenyouarehappywithit

PRESSURECOOKING

OurpressureCookersatTheEthicureanareconstantlyutilisedforawealthoftasksrangingfromvastquantitiesofstocktotheslowbraisingoftoughercutsofmeatsrightthroughtothecookingofourbeansandpulsesThepressurecookerisanunsungherointhekitchenWhenitcomestostockspressureCookingachievesadepthof

flavourthatwouldotherwisebeunobtainableThiscomesdowntotwoverysimpleconceptsfirstwhenmakingstocksbytheconventionalmethodthelidisuncoveredThisresultsinwhatarecalledlsquovolatilearomarsquomoleculesrisingoutofthestockAlthoughthismaysmelldelightfulwhatyouaresmellingislostflavourPressurecookershavelidsthatpreventthesearomasfromescapingandwhenusedcorrectlyandallowedtocoolthesearomascondenseinsidethepanandendupbackinthestockLessflavourislostincomparisonwithtraditionalmethodsAndwhilethelidstopsthearomasfromescapingpressurebuildsinsidethepanAtsealevelwaterboilsat100degCgiveortakeafewvariations

dependingonweatherInorderforwatertoboilenergy(intheformofheat)hastolsquopushrsquothewaterupharderthantheatmosphericpressurelsquopushesrsquothewaterdownWhentheforcepushingupisgreaterthantheforcepushingdownwaterboilsAtthetopofMountEveresttheatmosphericpressureislessthanitisatsealevelSowhenclimbersboilwaterathighaltitudesthewaterrequireslessenergy(heat)tolsquopushrsquothewaterupInfacttheboilingpointofwateratthetopofMountEverestisdramaticallyreducedandissomewherecloserto70degCInrelationtopressurecookingtheoppositeisalsotrueIfyouincreasetheatmosphericpressurethereismorepressurepushingdownonthewaterandwhatyouareleftwithisaboilingpointthatisabove100degCThisisbecausetoboilwaterunderpressureittakesmoreenergy(heat)topushthewaterupagainsttheatmosphericpressurepushingthewaterdownYouraverage

atmosphericpressurepushingthewaterdownYouraveragepressurecookerisdesignedtotakethetemperatureofwaterto120degCIainandMatthewarefascinatedbytheideaofsuper-heatedwaterbecauseflavoursarediffusedintothestockatagreaterrateathighertemperaturesndashandwestrivetocreategreaterdepthofflavourwitheverypressurecookingattemptTherearefurtheradvantagestousingapressurecookerat

homePressurecookersrequirelesswaterforcookingthefooddoesnothavetobeimmersedinliquidasthecookercontainssteamaswellasliquidThismeansthatlessenergyisrequiredtoheattheliquidtothedesiredtemperaturendashsomethingthatisverymuchinlinewithourstrongbeliefinreducingenergyconsumptionVitaminsarealsosaidtobepreservedmoreefficientlywhencookedunderpressureduetothesmallerquantitiesofliquidneededcombinedwiththefastercookingtimenutrientshavelessopportunitytoleachoutintothewaterWhenapressurecookerisusedcorrectlyliquidwillnotcome

totheboilWithstocksthatarehighlyvaluedforclaritythisisahugepositiveTakeyourtraditionalstockmethodforasimplestockbonesareroastedputinwaterwithvegetablesandherbsandcookedfor4hoursUsuallyastockwillbubbleawayrelativelyunattendedformostofthistimewiththecookoccasionallyskimmingoffimpuritiesIntheprocessofastockbubblingthebubblescreatemovementthroughthewaterwhichinturnbreaksdownvegetablematterintotinypiecesNotonlythatbutmotioncreatedbywaterboilingemulsifiesanyfatsintothestockAllofthatvegetablematterandfatresultinacloudystockInapressurecookerwatersitsmotionlessat120degCWhatyouareleftwithisaclearstockwhichcaninturnbeusedtoproducecrystal-clearsaucesorprovidethehiddenpunchofflavourthatmakesyourdishahit

PheasantKievwithWinterTarragonandStrawberryMyrtle

TheepitomeofautumncomfortfoodthiswasonthemenuduringTheEthicureanrsquosfirstmonthWeopenedinOctoberaboutamonthintothepheasantseasonandthiswasourplayonchickenKievndashasuperiorversioninouropinionduetothecomplexnatureofpheasantThehistoryoftheKievbeginsinRussiaandendsmostlyinthesupermarketchillercabinetAsaconceptitisflawlesscrispbreadcrumbedmeatoozingwithgarlicherbsandbutterForthefillingweaddtwoveryunderusedingredientsThefirstis

strawberrymyrtleanevergreenshrubthathasbrightredberriesaboutthesizeofcranberriesinautumnTheyarereminiscentofspicedstrawberryandtakefirst-timetasterscompletelybysurpriseJekkaMcVicartellsusthattheywereQueenVictoriarsquosfavouritefruitandshewouldoftenhavethemsentupfromCornwallTheirfruityspiceisacompletehitwithpheasantbutshouldyounotbeabletofindthemjuniperwilldoagoodjobtooThesecondspecialingredientiswintertarragon(Tageteslucida)aperennialwithdistinctlyaniseed-flavouredleavesItcanbepickedwhenFrenchtarragonisnolongeravailableandhalftheamountisneededForPaucirclaithasaparticularrelevanceastheflowerofwintertarragonformspartofthedecorationsduringthediacuteadelosmuertosortheDayoftheDeadIthasrootsinSouthAmericanculturethatgorightbacktotheAztecsandisstillusedbymanyMexicanIndiansasaningredientinincense

SERVES4

4largepheasantbreastsskinned100gsoftenedsaltedbutter2tbspfinelychoppedwintertarragon3tbspstrawberrymyrtle(orjuniper)2largeeggsbeaten250gstalebreadmadeintofinebreadcrumbs30gplainflourfineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperValorPotatoMash(seehere)toserve

FORTHEBRINE

40gfineseasalt2tspfennelseeds

2tspfennelseeds1tspfreshlygroundblackpepper

BeginbymakingthebrinendashthiscanbedonewellinadvanceandkeptinthefridgeuntilneededPutthesaltandspicesinasaucepanwith500mlwaterandbringtotheboilImmediatelyremovefromtheheatandleavetocoolthentransfertoaplasticboxandchillthoroughly

Putthepheasantbreastsinthebrineandleavefor2hoursDrainoffthebrinepourcoldwateroverthepheasantandleavefor2minutesDrainagainandpatdryonkitchenpaperKeepinthefridgeuntilneeded

MeanwhilemashtogetherthebutterandtarragonusingthebackofaforkDivideitinto4portionsandflatteneachoneoutintoasquareshapethatwillfitinsideapheasantbreastPlacethebutteronsomegreaseproofpaperandfreezefor1hour

ButterflythepheasantbreastsTodothislayeachoneonaboardandusingaverysharpknifecutintothebreastparalleltothechoppingboarduntilyoureach1cmfromtheotheredgeEssentiallyyouareenablingthebreasttoopenupcompletelywhilethe2sidesstayconnectedbyalsquohingersquoOnceeachbreasthasbeenopenedupplaceaportionofthebutterinthecentrealongwithaquarterofthestrawberrymyrtleBrusharoundtheedgesofbothsidesofthebreastwithalittleofthebeateneggthencloseitencasingthebutterandherbs

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6Spreadoutthebreadcrumbsinaroastingtrayandbakefor5minutesStirwellthenreturnthemtotheovenandcontinuetobakestirringat2-minuteintervalsuntilthecrumbsarecompletelydryandcrispSetasidetocool

Placetheflourbreadcrumbsandremainingbeateneggin3separatebowlsCoateachbreastinflourthendipitintheeggandcoatwiththebreadcrumbsFinallydipeachbreastbackintotheeggandthencoatwithafinallayerofbreadcrumbsThislsquodouble-diprsquomethodensuresmorecrunchontheexteriorandalsohelpspreventthebutterescaping

PuttheKievsonaroastingtrayplaceintheovenandbakefor14minutesServewiththemashandseasonalgreens

HANGINGPHEASANTS

WhenbuyingpheasantstrytoensurethatyoutakehomeyoungbirdsyoucandothisbycheckingthebeakandclawsOldermeansthickerandharderAbraceofpheasantsisacock(male)andahen(female)Oldstalwartsofgamewouldadvisethatcocksmustbehunglongerthanhensduetotheirmoreactive

lifestyleandlargersizeInpracticeitalldependsonthetemperatureatwhichtheyarehungandontheageofthebirdWewouldadvisebuyingabracethathasalreadybeenhungbyyourbutcherThebasicsciencebehindhangingisthatenzymesinthemeatattackothercellmoleculesandthisinturnreduces

theselargemoleculesintotastiersmallermoretenderpieces(seeMcGeeOnFoodandCookingpage144)

Wintertarragon

Strawberrymyrtle

daggerThestorygoesthatJasonandtheArgonautsbroughtthepheasantbacktoGreece(alongwiththeGoldenFleece)fromtheplacenowthoughttobeGeorgiandashtheLatinnameforpheasantiscochicusaderivativeofthatareaItwasthenbroughttoBritainbytheRomansandappearedinfossilisedformatCorbridgearoundthesiteofHadrianrsquoswallEleventh-CenturyremainsoffeaststhatincludepheasantbonesaboundItwasnotuntiltheeighteenthandnineteenthcenturiesthatnewvarietiesofpheasantwereintroducedfromtheFarEastandChinaThemalesreallyaresplendidtheircoloursareautumnalandseemtomirrorthetreesrsquoseasonaltransformationtogoldsredsandbrownsThesebirdsarenotparticularlycleverandDorothyHartleyhadacunningtechniqueforpoachingthemfromhergardeninsummerlsquoPheasantisfairlycommoninEnglandinSummerwhenthecockinvadesthecottagegardenstosneakthepeasYoucatchhimquietlywithapaperbagandraisinsSmearthepaperconeinsidewithtreacleorgumputafewraisinsatthebottomandpropthe

bagupagainstthepeasWhenhestickshisheadinhecannotseewheretogosohestandstilltillyoufetchhimrsquo(FoodinEnglandpage202)

RareRoastSirloinofBeefwithBordelaiseSauceBlackCabbageandTruffleCauliflower

OneofourfavouritefeaturesattheWalledGardenisthemainseatingareaoftherestaurantwhichwecalltheglasshouseWithitsnear-perfect180-degreeviewoftheSomersethillsitgivesusarealsenseofthechangingcountrysidethroughouttheseasonsFromherewehaveoftenobservedthedifferentweatherpatternsapproachingandnotedtheeffecttheyhaveonthelandscapearoundusMostimportantlyhowevertheviewofthevastvelvetyhillsservesasadailyreminderofourfantasticbeef-farmingheritageintheUKBritainrsquosfertilepasturesproducesomeofthebestbeefintheworldand

BritainrsquosfertilepasturesproducesomeofthebestbeefintheworldandhaveledtothedevelopmentofsomesuperbcattlebreedsAttherestaurantweuseHerefordCrossorCharolaisbeefthathasbeenagedfor28ndash35daysTheadvantagesofageingaretwofoldasthemeathangsmoistureevaporatesfromitwhichmeansagreaterintensityofflavourisachievedatthesametimethetoughconnectivetissuegraduallybreaksdownresultinginmoretendermeatWewouldrecommendseekingoutbeefthathasbeenhungforatleast28daysThiskindofmeatisamagnificenttestamenttoBritishbeeffarmingYet

itsrecenthistoryhasbeentroubledItsreputationsufferedgreatlyasaconsequenceoftheBSEcrisisinthelatetwentiethcenturyanditwassometimebeforeitscredibilitywasrestoredIronicallyitwasoftensmallfamily-runfarmsthatsufferedfinanciallyasaresultdespitethefactthatsuchfarmersrsquoclosedherdsoftraditionalgrass-fedbeefbreedsweretheonesthatweremostlikelytobefreeofthediseaseOncethisfactbecamewidelyknownitledtothepromotionofsmall-scalebeeffarmingwhichproducedbeefofhighqualityOursearchforabutcherwhosharedourcommitmenttosustainablefood

productionledustoThornburyfarmersrsquomarketandScottPowellfromPowellsofOlvestonndashabutcherwhostoodbeforeabannerproudlyproclaimingethicallysourcedmeatsScotthadclearlygonetogreatlengthstofindhissuppliersforbeeflambporkchickenandduckallofwhomhavehighstandardsofanimalhusbandryandexceptionallywellcared-forlivestockTocookthesirloinaccuratelyithelpstohaveadigitalprobendashamodest

investmentthatwillhaveagreatimpactonyourcookingFamiliariseyourselfwiththeguidetoroastingbeefonherebeforeyoustartthisrecipeThebeefwilltakeabout4hoursfromleavingthefridgetoservingDonrsquotworryifitisreadybeforethesidedishesndashbetterthatitiswellrestedthanrushedtothetableItcanbeheldinaverylowovenalongsidewarmingplatesafterbastingforaslongasrequiredThisrelaxedapproachmarksoutSundayasanidealtimetocatchupandmullovertheweekwithfamilyandfriends

SERVES8

2kgbeefsirloinpreferablyagedfor28ndash35days3tbspmustardpowder

plainflourfordusting3tbsprapeseedoil400gblackcabbage(cavolonero)kaleorscarletborecolestalksremovedcutinto2cmstrips

1tbspcidervinegaradoublequantityofBordelaiseSauce(seehere)ValorPotatoMash(seehere)toserveflakyseasalt

FORTHETRUFFLECAULIFLOWER

1cauliflower1tspsmokedsalt4tbspdoublecreamtruffleoilpreferablyEnglish(seehere)totaste

Takethesirloinoutofthefridge2hoursbeforecookingtobringittoroomtemperatureRemoveanystringandcoveritwithateatowel

Dividethecauliflowerinto25cmfloretsandslicethestemPlaceinasteamerbasketandsteamoveralowheatfor35minutesuntilverysoftTransferthecauliflowertoablenderorfoodprocessorwiththesmokedsaltandblitzacoupleoftimesThenwiththemachinerunningpourinaslowdrizzleofdoublecreamuntilitbeginstocombineOnceitstartstomovearoundtheblenderaddalightsplashoftruffleoilndashsomewhereintheregionof1ndash2teaspoonsTastethemixtureanddecideifyouwantmoresaltortruffleoilScrapedownthesidestocatchanyremainingunblendedpiecesandblendoncemoreIfyouwantaverysmoothfinishpassthemixturethroughafinesieveSetaside

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6Getalargeheavy-basedfryingpanveryhotItrsquosimportantthatthebeefbrownsquicklysomakesurethepanispracticallyhummingDustthesirloinonallsideswiththemustardpowderthenwithflourrubbingitintomaketheoutsidedry(donrsquotaddanysaltatthisstage)LiftthejointupandgiveitafewpercussiveslapstoknockoffanyexcessflourCarefullyadd2tablespoonsoftherapeseedoiltothehotpanandusingacarvingforkgentlylowerthebeefintoitItwillcolour

quicklyoverthisheatsoturnitregularlyuntilbrownedonallsidesTransfertoaroastingtrayandplaceintheovenDecidetowhatdegreeyouwouldlikethemeatcooked(seetheboxonhererememberingthatthetemperaturesshownaretheonesthemeatshouldreachafterresting)Roastfor25minutesthentakethejointoutforitsfirsttemperaturetestInsertadigitalprobeintothesideyouwouldcarvefromatwhicheverendisthickestasclosetothecentreofthecrosssectionaspossibleandcheckthetemperatureProbeatacouplemorepointstheaimbeingtofindthelowesttemperaturereadinginthejointThetemperatureislikelytomeasureinthemidtwentiesinwhichcaseitcangobackintheovenfor10minutesbeforetestingagainAsitnearsyourchosentemperaturereturnittotheovenprobingat5-minuteintervalsuntilthecorrecttemperatureisreachedWecookourbeeftoaninnercoretemperatureof37degCandwhenitisoutoftheovenwewatchthecarry-overeffectonthethermometerasitclimbsto50degCPerfectlyrareRestingfor30minutesisessentialtofinishingthebeefproperlyStraightafteritcomesoutoftheoventhefibreswillcontractandjuiceswillleavethemeatThenastheystopcontractingitwillreabsorbthejuicesThiswindowprovidesagreatopportunitytoseasonApplyuptoatablespoonofflakyseasaltliberallytothejointOverthenext10ndash30minutesregularlybastethemeatbyspooningthejuicesbackoveritThesaltwilldissolvefromthesurfaceandthepanjuiceswillberenderedtoosaltyforuseelsewherebutasthebeefabsorbssomeofthissaltitwillbeseasonedtoperfectionAfterthesirloinhasbeenbastedandresteditcanbereturnedtoanovensetat50degCwhereitwilllsquoholdrsquoperfectlytillyouarereadytocarveitndashatechniqueusedinmanyprofessionalkitchens

Heattheremainingrapeseedoilinapanaddthecabbageandcookoveramediumheatfor30ndash45secondsAddthecidervinegarletitsteamoffintheheatofthepanthenseasonwithsaltandtransfertoawarmservingdish

Reheatthecauliflowerpureacuteecarvethebeefandservewiththebordelaisesaucemashandcabbage

AGEINGBEEF

Whenabeeforbuffalocarcassisagedthemeataswholejointsisheldbetween1and3degCEnzymesinmusclebreakproteins

intosavouryaminoacidsandthisiswhereflavourdevelopsfrom(seeHaroldMcGeeOnFoodandCooking)Thisprocesswonrsquotbenoticeableuntilafter20daysandcontinuesforafurther15daysFurtheractionoffungalmicrobesontheexteriorcomplementsthisprocessTheydonrsquotcausespoilageinthetruesenseandin

anycasethemeatistrimmedofitscrustasamatterofcoursebythebutcherattheendofthematuringAsupermarketwouldmostlikelycutandpackagemeatafteronlyfourdaysofstoringinoxygen-lessconditionsThesupermarketbenefitsfromhaving

nolossinweightthatadry-ageingprocesswouldeffectSearchoutanindependentproducerofBritishgrass-fedbeefatafarmersrsquomarkettalktohimorherandaskaboutthisprocess

UponknowingalittlemoreabouttheirartisanskillsandprideintheirproductyouaremuchmorelikelytocomeawaywithameltinglytenderandflavoursomecutofmeatAsBritainistheonlycountryintheworldtobananimalderivativesinfeedthebeefisnowthesafesttheworldoversomethingtosupportandtrulygetbehindOnceyouhaveboughtthebestpossiblepiece

ofmeatthekitchenprocessissimpletosaytheleast

ROASTINGBEEF

RoastingbeeftoperfectionrequiresanaccuratethermometerTherearemanyotherwaysofjudgingwhenthebeefisatthecorrectstageoflsquodonenessrsquobutathermometerisundoubtedlythemosteffectivewaytoachievethesameresulteverytimeOvensoperateatdifferenttemperatureswiththeirownuniquecoldspotsandhotspotsHavingacorrectlycalibratedthermometertomeasuretheinternaltemperatureofthemeatnegatesalltheguessworkForourrareroastsirloinwhichweservemostSundaysinthe

restaurantthecutisroastedtoaninternaltemperaturematching

restaurantthecutisroastedtoaninternaltemperaturematchingthatofourbodiesThemeatisthentakenoutoftheovenandallowedtorestforaminimumof30minutesbeforeitisservedMeatissubjecttoaphenomenonknownaslsquocarry-overcookingrsquoEssentiallythismeansthatevenafterthemeathasbeenremovedfromtheoventheinternaltemperaturewillcontinuetoriseagoodfewdegreesThethickerthepieceofmeatthemoreheatitwillretainandthehigheritwillclimbSirloinandotherlargecutsusuallyclimbaround10ndash13degCThechartbelowshowsthetemperaturethemeatshouldreachafterresting

Whencookingsteaksremovethemfromtheheatwhentheyareroughly5degCbelowthetemperatureyouwanttoreachforribsofbeef5ndash10degCWewouldneverrecommendtakingbeefabove60degCasitbecomesalmostasmuchofatasktoeatascoldMidgetGemsAndalotlessenjoyabletoo

AlmondPearCardamomandChocolateCake

WehaveusedmanyfruitsinthedevelopmentofthisdessertandalthoughitworkswellallyearroundwecansafelysaythatitisbestwithpearsespeciallyifyoucangetthemwhentheyareperfectlyripePearstendtobelessacidicthanapplesandwefindtheireleganthoneyedfragrancehardtoresistItwasinspiredbytheclassiccombinationofpearandalmondexemplified

inthetraditionalfrangipanendashasumptuouspastemadefromground

inthetraditionalfrangipanendashasumptuouspastemadefromgroundalmondsItevolvedintoacosmopolitanWestCountryaffairwhenwewereaskedtodesigncakestosuitthemenuoftheThaliCafeacuteanindependentIndianchainbasedinBristolTheadditionoffloral-scentedcardamomseemedinevitableThecakewastheperfectmatchforallthosewonderfulspicesusedinIndiancookingIthasnowbecomeoneofthemostpopularitemsatTheEthicureanwhethersoldfromthecakecounterorservedasawarmdessertAboveallthiscakehaswonadevotedfollowingbecausewekeepitglutenfreeGluten-freecakesaresometimesmalignedforbeingdryandcrumblybutthisofferingtrouncesthatpreconceptionWeencourageyoutotryitwarmwithadecentamountofcreamThechocolatewillmeltwithinandthefrangipanewillbetransformedintoadevastatinglymoistensemble

315gsaltedbutteratroomtemperature315gcastersugarplusalittleextrafordusting5eggslightlybeaten315ggroundalmonds50ggluten-freeplainflour(orordinaryplainflour)1tbspgroundcardamom1ripepear70gdarkchocolate(weuseOriginalBeansCruVirungachocolatebutanygood70percentcocoasolidchocolatewillwork)

Heattheovento160degCGasMark3Linethebaseandsidesofa23cmspringformcaketinwithnon-stickbakingpaper

Usingafreestandingelectricmixerfittedwiththepaddleattachmentbeatthebutterandsugartogetherfor10ndash15minutesuntilpaleandincreasedinvolumeGraduallypourinthebeateneggswhilethemixercontinuestoturnAddallthedryingredientsandmixonslowuntiljustcombinedRemovethebowlfromthemachineandfoldthemixtureafewtimeswithaspatulatoensureitiswellmixedTurnitintothetinlevelthetopslightlythenplaceinthecentreoftheovenandbakefor20minutesInthemeantimethinlyslicethepearremovingthecoreandbreakthechocolateintopiecesRemovethecakecarefullyfromtheovenItwillbeliquidwithonlyatouchofcolourPressthechocolatepiecesverticallyintothemixacrosstheentirecakeLaythepearslicesinapatternofyourchoosingon

acrosstheentirecakeLaythepearslicesinapatternofyourchoosingontopDustthemwithalittlecastersugartoaidcaramelisationandthengentlyreturnthecaketotheovenCookfor40minuteslongerturningthecakearoundhalfwaythroughtoensureitbakesevenlyIfyouhaveadigitalprobeagoodwaytoensurethatthecakeisdonetoperfectionistocheckthetemperatureinthecentreitshouldbe94degCOtherwiseinsertaskewerandcheckthatitcomesoutcleanLeavethecaketocoolforatleast20minutesbeforeserving

daggerThenamefrangipane(astheenlighteningLarousseGastronomiquetellsus)originatesfromasixteenthcenturyperfumerandnoblemantheMarquisMuzioFrangipaniInhisvastrepertoireofperfumeshehadaparticularlymemorableonebasedonbitteralmondswhichwasspecificallyusedforscentingglovesThescentwassopleasantthatitledprominentParisianchefstodesignanalmond-basedpasteintheMarquisrsquosname

daggerItseemsthatourloveforpearswassharedbyRomansandGreeksalikePearswereeatenindiversewaysandevenmadeintoanalcoholicdrinkDuringmedievaltimespearswouldonlybeeatenafterdinnerandtheyweregenerallyroastedoreatenwithsugarfennelseedsoraniseedTheytendedtobeeateninenormousquantitiesattimesofglutswhichinevitablyledtoupsetstomachsandtheincorrectassumptionthattheywereariskyfruittoeatrawThesayinglsquorawpearsapoisonbakedamedicinebersquoencapsulatesthissentimentperfectlyThepracticeofcookingpearswithsugarandspicescontinuedwelluntiltheseventeenthcentury

SeaBuckthornSorbetwithAppleandVanillaPureacuteeToffeeAppleandCaramelLemonBalm

SeabuckthornhasbeenusedforcenturiesinEuropeandAsiabothasfoodandformedicinalpurposesAsitsnamesuggestsitisahardythornybushwhichmightbewhyithasbeenforgottenaboutinrecenttimesharvestingitisnottheeasiestoftasksThisdidnotdetertheAncientGreekswhousedtofeedittotheirhorsestopromoteweightgainandglossycoatsndashhenceitsLatinnameHippophaemeaninglsquoshinyhorsersquoItrsquosdefinitelyworthlookingoutfortheberriesonseasideforagingtripsThedensebushesareeasytospotastheberriesareacheerfulbrightyellow-orangeInlinewithgoodforagingetiquettetrytoresisttheurgetocutthewholespikybranchinordertogaineasieraccesstothefruitItwilldamagetheplantandminimisethechanceofafutureharvestInsteadthinkoftheintrepidGreeksontheirshinyhorsesandarmyourselfwithathickpairofglovesandtoughclothingsoyoucanharvestinpeaceTheberriesoftenstayonthehedgewellintothewinterBewareoftheir

highacidityitcertainlymakesforaninterestinggameofwhocanpullthefunniestfaceasyoueatthemWetemperthistartnessbymakingtheberriesintoasyrupysorbetTheappleandvanillapureacuteesoftenstheirastringencyevenfurtherandprovidesasweetvelvetybasetodipyourminitoffeeapplesintoWecouldnotresistincludingtoffeeapplesTheyaretheepitomeof

autumnconjuringupthoughtsofwoodlandfloorscarpetedingoldenleavesandambersparksaroundabonfireTheseminiatureversionsareamorerefinedtreatthanthetraditionalchildhoodones

SERVES6

FORTHESEABUCKTHORNSORBET

700ndash800gseabuckthornberries250gfructose(fruitsugar)50gglucosepowder

FORTHEAPPLEANDVANILLAPUREacuteE

frac14vanillapod250gdessertapplespeeledcoredandcutintocubes

250gdessertapplespeeledcoredandcutintocubes5tbspcastersugar

FORTHETOFFEEAPPLES

175mlapplejuice100gcastersugar2BlenheimOrangeapples(orBramleyapples)4ndash6lemonbalmleaves(ormintleaves)finelyslicedtodecorateafewshardsofsaltcaramel(seehere)togarnish(optional)

Firstmakethesorbetpasstheseabuckthornberriesthroughajuiceextractorandmeasurethejuiceyouwillneed400mlPutthefructoseandglucoseinasaucepanadd330mlwaterandbringtoagentlesimmerLeavetocoolandthenstirintheseabuckthornjuicePassthroughafinesieveandleaveinthefridgeforatleast2hoursThisallowstheproteinsinthemixturetohydratefullywhichimprovesthewhippingqualitiesofthesorbetandmakesitsmootherFreezeinanice-creammachineaccordingtothemanufacturerrsquosinstructionsWhenthemixtureisalmostfrozenblitzwithastickblenderfor15ndash30secondsthenreturntothemachineandcontinuetochurnDecantintoanairtightcontainerandfreezeforatleast2hoursbeforeserving

FortheappleandvanillapureacuteeslitopenthevanillapodandscrapeouttheseedsPuttheseedsandpodinasaucepanwiththeapplessugarand50mlwaterandplaceoveramediumheatBringtoasimmerandcookfor30minutesstirringoftenTransfertoablenderremovingthevanillapodandblitztoapureacuteePassthroughafinesieveandsetasideAllowtocoolandthenchill

TomakethetoffeeapplespourtheapplejuiceintoasaucepanandbringtoagentlesimmerRemovefromtheheatandkeepwarmUsethesugartomakeacaramelfollowingtheinstructionsforSaltCaramelonherebutomittingthesaltLetitreachadeepevengoldcolourtheninsteadoftippingitontoasiliconematremovefromtheheatandslowlyaddtheapplejuiceBecarefulasthecaramelwillbubblerapidlywhenthejuiceispouredinOnceallthejuicehasbeenaddedthecaramelwillprobablysolidifyPlaceoveralowheatandcookstirringuntilithasmeltedintothe

applejuiceSimmeruntilithasreducedtoaloosesyrupyconsistencyRemovefromtheheatandleavetocool

Usingamelonballerscoopout18ndash24ballsofapplekeepingtheskinonPuttheballsinasaucepanjustlargeenoughtoholdtheminasinglelayerthenaddenoughofthecaramelapplesyruptoreachhalfwayupthemPlaceonahighheatandcookturningtheappleballsregularlyuntilthesyruphasthickenedenoughtocoatthemRemovefromtheheatandsetasideinawarmplaceuntilneeded

ToservespoonsomeapplepureacuteeontoeachplatethenaddthetoffeeappleballsdressedwithalittleextrasyrupDecoratewiththelemonbalmandsaltcaramelshards(ifusing)andplaceascoopofsorbetoneachplate

BeetrootAppleandCobnutCrumblewithRoastedWhiteChocolateSpoom

GiventhatwehavesomanyapplevarietiesintheWalledGardenwecouldnotresistcreatingaversionoftheubiquitouscrumbleItisafterallthequintessentialBritishpuddingandonethatcanbeenhancedgreatlybythechoiceofingredientsusedItsbeautyliesnotonlyinitssimplicitybutalsoinitsversatilitySurprisinglycrumblesdidnrsquotbecomepopularuntiltheSecondWorldWarwhentheywereawayofekingoutsugarflourandbutterrationstomakeapuddingUsingbeetrootmightseemslightlyriskybutwehaveoptedforthesweetwhite-fleshedAlbinaIcebeetrootwhichgivesasubtlecolourpaletteIfyoucangetRibstonPippinapplestheyoffertheperfectcombinationofpearmaltandpeachflavoursandalsohaveasubtlechestnut-likeflavourthatcomplementsthecobnutsWeopttoturntheappleandbeetrootoutontoacrispseparatelybakedcrumbleandhaveborrowedthetarteTatinideaofmakingacarameltotopthedishSoinessencethisisanupside-downcrumbleTheadditionofanuttyelementisoptionalbutyouwillfindthatitimprovesthetextureofthetoppingbymakingitcrunchierndashthehallmarkofagoodcrumbleinourviewItisofcoursepossibletosubstitutehazelnutsforthecobnutsbutwewouldurgeyoutoheadoutdoorsandfindyournearestcobnuttreeThisissuchagreatnativenutwithanamazinghistory(seehere)

SERVES6ndash8

350gAlbinaIcebeetroot(orsubstitutegoldenbeetrootChioggiaorredvarietiesforaverydifferentcolourfinish)

500gRibstonPippinapples(orCoxrsquosOrangePippins)RoastedWhiteChocolateSpoom(seehere)toserve

FORTHECRUMBLE

100gcobnuts260gplainflour165gdemerarasugar165gunsaltedbutteratroomtemperaturecutintocubesfrac12tspgroundcinnamon

FORTHEVANILLAANDCIDERBRANDYCARAMEL

125gcastersugar100mlagedciderbrandy1vanillapod50gunsaltedbutteratroomtemperaturecutintosmallcubes

FirstmakethecrumbleHeattheovento180degCGasMark4PutthenutsinafoodprocessorandblitzforasecondortwountiltheyarecoarselychoppedSiftintheflouraddthesugarandturnontheprocessoragainSlowlyaddpiecesofbutterthroughthefoodtubeuntilthemixtureresemblesbreadcrumbs(Youcandothisallbyhandifyoupreferrubbingthebutterintothedryingredientswithyourfingertips)Scatterthemixtureintoa24cmnon-stickovenprooffryingpanwithoutpressingitdownBakefor25minutesoruntilgoldenbrownandcrispCookingthecrumbleseparatelylikethismeansitretainsitscrunchagainstthemoistappleRemovefromtheovenandcoolslightlythenturnitoutontoaservingplatebyplacingtheplateoverthepanandcarefullyflippingthembothoverHopefullyitwillcomeoutcleanandunbrokenSetasideforlaterCleanoutthepannowreadyformakingthecarameltop

WashthebeetrootwelltrimmingawaythestemsthenslicethemfinelyfromtoptobottomThiswillbeeasierwithamandolinethoughentirelypossiblewithacalmsteadyhandandasharpknifeCoretheapplesandslicefinelyintodiscs

Putthesugarandciderbrandyintothenon-stickfryingpanSlitthevanillapoddownitslengthscrapetheseedsintothepanandaddthepodhalvesaswellSetthepanoveramediumheatandbringtotheboilstirringoccasionallytodissolvethesugarTheliquidmayigniteasthealcoholcooksoffContinuetocookwithoutstirringbutkeepingacloseeyeonituntilitturnsalightcaramelcoloursimilartothatofdemerarasugarAssoonasthisoccursremovethepanfromtheheatLaytheslicesofbeetrootinthecarameltocoverthebaseofthepanthenaddalternatelayersofappleandbeetrootDotthebutteroverthetopandplaceintheovenCheckitafter35minutesitisreadywhenthemoisturehasbeencookedoutandthereisaclearlayerofdeepcaramelcolouraroundtheedgesThiscouldtakeuptoanhourdependingonthemoisturecontentoftheapplesandbeetrootsokeepcheckingat10-minuteintervalsWhenitisreadyremovefromtheoven

checkingat10-minuteintervalsWhenitisreadyremovefromtheovenandleavefor15ndash20minutesuntilthepanhandleiscoolenoughtoholdSlidethecrumbleoffitsplateontotheapplePuttheplatefacedownontothisthenflopthewholethingovertakingcaretoholdtheplatesteadytooTheapplemixtureshouldcomefreefromthepanwithagentleshakegoslowlyandgravityshouldsufficeServewiththeroastedwhitechocolatespoom

daggerTheappleswehavechosenforthisdishareRibstonPippinThemid-seasonapplevarietygaineditsnamefromRibstonHallinYorkshirewhereitisbelievedtohavegrowninthe18thcenturyThiswasanotherpopularvarietyintheVictorianeraandwasbelievedtobeoneoftheparentsofCoxrsquosOrangePippin

daggerBeetrootwasafavouritesweetenerandcolouringagentoftheVictoriansitwasoftenusedinsaladsandsoupsVictorianfoodparticularlyinnoblehouseswasallaboutcreatingthemoststunningtheatricaleffectanditseemsthatthedramaticcolourprovidedbythisrootvegetablewasafavouriteatthedinnertable

Simplesyrupsforsorbetsandspooms

Simplesyrupsforsorbetsandspooms

SugarsyrupsareanessentialpartofmakingsorbetsspoomsandicecreamsForallsorbetandspoomrecipesweuseinthisbookweusea50percentsugarsyrupalsoknownas5050syrupDependingonitsuseweeitherusesucrose(commontablesugar)or

fructose(fruitsugar)(formoreonfructoseseehere)Forfruitypreparationswewillgenerallyalwaysusethe5050fructosesyrupIfyouareeverunsurerefertotherecipethatyouaremaking

5050COMMONSYRUP

500gcastersugar500gwater

5050FRUCTOSESYRUP

500gfructosesugar500gwater

Thismethodappliestobothsyrups

CombinethesugarandwaterinamediumsaucepanPlaceonamedium-highheatandbringtoasimmerStirtoensureallthesugarhasdissolvedbeforepouringintoabowlplacedinanicebathAllowtochilltofridgetemperaturebeforedecantingintoatupperwarecontainerandstoringinthefridgeuntilneeded

YoumayalsocoolthesyrupbypouringitintoaroastingtraywithalargesurfaceareaLiquidswithlargesurfaceareascooldownmuchmorequickly

Spoom

ThenamelsquospoomrsquocomesfromtheItalianwordspumemeaningfoamSpoomresemblesasmoothairysorbetItisaforgottendessertnowadaysbutitusedtobeverypopularinEnglandItwasmadewithalightersyrupthan

anormalsorbetandonewouldmixinItalianmeringueforgoodmeasureItwascommonlysoldinatallglasssothatyoucouldseethelayersandtextureswithinSpoomissuchaversatiledessertthatitisastonishingthatweeverletitgooffourculinaryradarInordertorevivethespoomwehavecomeupwithanautumnalandasummeryoptionReadonandspoomaway

RoastedWhiteChocolateSpoom

SERVES4ndash6

350gwhitechocolate180gglucosesyrup80gItalianMeringue(seehere)

Preheattheovento110degCGasMarkfrac14BreakupthechocolateintoanovenproofdishandplaceintheovenLeavefor10minutesbeforestirringwithaspatulaReturntotheovenstirringevery5minutesuntilthechocolatehastakenonalightndashmediumbrowncolour(likeCaramac)Thisusuallytakes40ndash60minutesDuringthisprocessthechocolatewillgothroughseveralstageshardmeltedchalkyandgrainybeforebecomingcompletelysmoothDonrsquotpanicThisisnormalTakecarewhenremovingitfromtheovenasitrsquosincrediblyhotDecantintoaplasticcontainerandleavetocoolOncecoldandsolidifiedchoproughlyintosmallpiecesandplaceinamixingbowl

Inasaucepancombinetheglucosesyrupwith850gofcoldwaterPlaceoveramediumheatandbringtoaverygentlesimmerPourthesimmeringliquidoverthechoppedchocolateStirforacoupleofminutesbeforeblendingwithastickblender(orpouringintoablender)FoldintheItalianmeringue

Spoonthechocolatemixtureintoaplasticcontainerandrefrigerateforatleast2hours(TherefrigerationprocessallowstheproteinspresentinthespoomtohydratefullyThiswillinturnimproveitswhippingqualitiesallowingmoreairtobeincorporatedandresultinasmootherproduct)Removefromthefridgeandstrainthroughafine-meshsieve

Twentyminutesbeforeyouarereadytochurnswitchonyourice-cream

Twentyminutesbeforeyouarereadytochurnswitchonyourice-creammachineAddthespoomtotheice-creammachineWhenthemachinebeginstolabourremovethebowlandblitzthemixturewithastickblender(orspoonintoablender)for15ndash30secondsReturnthemixturetotheice-creammachineandchurnforafurther2ndash3minutesDecantintoanairtightliddedplasticcontainerandfreezeforatleast2hoursbeforeserving

CherrySpoom

SERVES4ndash6

500gpittedcherriesstonesreserved(seeNotebelow)150g5050FructoseSyrup(seehere)35gItalianMeringue(seehere)

Placethecherriesinablenderandblitzonfullspeedfor12minutesPassthroughachinoisorfine-meshsieveintoamixingbowltoremoveanyexcesssolids

AddthesyruptothecherriesmixingwellWhiskintheItalianmeringueuntilfullyincorporated

Spoonthecherrymixtureintoaplasticcontainerandrefrigerateforaminimumof2hours(TherefrigerationprocessallowstheproteinspresentinthespoomtohydratefullyThiswillinturnimproveitswhippingqualitiesallowingmoreairtobeincorporatedandresultinasmootherproduct)Removefromthefridgeandstrainthroughafine-meshsieve

Twentyminutesbeforeyouarereadytochurnswitchonyourice-creammachine(itneedstobeverycoldbeforeusesoastoformicecrystalsasquicklyaspossiblemakingforasmootherfinish)Addthespoomtotheice-creammachineWhenthemachinebeginstolabourremovethebowlandblitzthemixturewithastickblender(orspoonintoablender)forabout15ndash30secondsReturnthemixturetotheice-creammachineandchurnforafurther2ndash3minutesDecantintoanairtightliddedplasticcontainerandfreezeforatleast2hoursbeforeserving

NOTEasanoptionalstepforthisrecipewrapthereservedcherrystonesinateatowelandbashthemwitharollingpintocrushthemPlacethecrushedstonesinasaucepanalongwiththefructosesyrupBringthesyruptotheboilandthentakeofftheheatAllowtocooltoroomtemperatureandthenplacein

thefridgeuntilthoroughlycoldStrainthroughachinoisorfine-meshsievetoextractthestonesbeforecontinuingwiththesamemethodasaboveThiswilladdanextracomplexitytothespooncontributinganever-so-slightlybitteralmondtasteDelightful

ItalianMeringue

ItalianmeringuesareathingofbeautyTheirthickunctuoustextureisenoughtomakeagrownmanregresstoachildlikestatescrapingeverylasttinymorseloutofthebowlandhungrilylickingthespoonAmeringueisatypeoffoammadefromwhiskingeggwhitesandthen

addingsugarItistheeggwhitesthatcreatethefoamasthewhiteiswhiskedtheproteinswhichareinatangledformintheirnaturalstatebegintounravelintostrandsThesestrandstheninteractwithoneanotherandasairisincorporatedthroughwhiskingtheywraparoundtheairbubblesandtrapitandthusafoamiscreatedThemeringuemostofusmakeathomeisanuncookedmeringueThesearenotconsideredsafetoeatintheirrawstatesimplybecausetemperaturehasnotbeenappliedtokillanybacteriapresentUsuallythesemeringuesareputintotheoventocrispupandformpavlovasorgivetherisetosouffleacutesIfleftuncookedarawmeringuewilleventuallydeflateastheraworlsquosoftrsquoproteinsintheeggarenolongerabletoretaintheairbubblesItalianmeringuesdifferfromthecommonmeringuebecauseastheeggs

arewhiskedtothecorrectconsistencyboilingsugarispouredinThisboilingsugarcookstheeggwhiterenderingitsafetoeatbutinterestingly

asthehotsugarcookstheeggwhitesthelsquosoftrsquoproteinscoagulatetrappingairalmostinstantlyCoagulatedproteinsaresetandareabletoholdontotrappedairmuchmoreeffectivelythanrawproteinsThesearetwogoodreasonsweuseItalianmeringueitispasteurisedandfarmorestablethananyothermeringueItalianmeringuecanbeusedtomakecrispmeringuesandawholehostofotherdessertsWeuseitforcreatingourspooms(seehere)Italianmeringuesarethemorecomplicatedtomakebutdonrsquotletthisput

youoffWithalittlepracticeyouwillhoneamethodthatworksforyouandyourequipmentandyouwillbeabletomakeaperfectmeringueeverytime

320gcastersugar150geggwhites

Placethesugarand100gofcoldwaterinasmallsaucepanPlaceonamediumheatandbringtotheboilAsthesyrupbeginstoboilincreasetheheattomedium-highIfyouhaveajamthermometerthenplaceitinthesyrupIfyouhaveaninstareadthermometerthenperiodicallycheckthetemperaturendashyouneedittoreach110degC(seebelow)beforeyoutacklethenextstepHaveasmallbowlofwaterandasiliconepastrybrushatthereadyAsthesugarbeginstoboilareaswillmostlikelycrystallisearoundtheedgeofthepanBrushtheseawaywiththewetpastrybrushtopreventtheentiresyrupfromcrystallisingDonotstirthesyrup

AddtheeggwhitestoameticulouslycleanmixingbowlMakesurethesugarhasreached110degCbeforeyoustarttowhisktheeggwhites(seeboxopposite)WhisktheeggwhitesuntiltheyformstiffpeaksWhenthesugarreaches121degCandthewhitesareatthestiffpeakstageslowlypourinthesugarsyrupinathinsteadystreamdowntheedgeofthemixingbowlwhilewhiskingatfullspeedOnceallthesyrupisaddedcontinuetowhiskuntilthemeringuereturnstoroomtemperatureThisshouldtakeabout15ndash20minutesTimespentonthisismostdefinitelyworthitsobepatient(AgreatwayofentertainingyourselfthroughtasksthatrequirecontinuousattentionistotakenoteofthecharacteristicsofthecontentsofthepanormixingbowlObservinghowtheyflowtheirshinetextureorsmellHowtheyslowlychangevicositycolourandaromaNoticinglittlethingslike

thatmaysoundalittleoddbutwhenyoulookcloselyyoursquollseehowfascinatingitcanbe)

Ifyouwanttomakeindividualmeringuespreheattheovento60degC(orthelowestpossiblegassetting)LineabakingsheetwithgreaseproofpaperPlacegeneroustablespoonsofthemeringuemixtureabout5cmapartonthebakingsheetCookintheovenfor3ndash5hoursuntiltheoutsideofthemeringueformsafairlythicksoftskinAtthispointswitchofftheovenandleavetocoolforacoupleofhours

Ifmakingthemeringueforthespoomrecipesonherethenwewouldrecommendeithermakingahalfbatchorensuringthatyoutrybothrecipesthenfreezethem

DIFFICULTYOFTIMING

ThisisthedifficultstageofmakingItalianmeringuegettingthetimingrightYouwanttheeggstobeatthestiffpeakstageasthesugarhits121degCIfyouhaveanelectrichandwhiskthenstartingtowhisktheeggwhitesat105degCwillprobablybeaboutrightIfyouhaveaKitchenaiditwillwhiskthewhitesfarquickerthanahandwhisksostartitafewdegreeslater(try108ndash110degC)ThereareafewthingsyoucandotocontrolthemixturehavinganicebathreadyisausefultipIfthesugarreaches121degCbeforetheeggwhitesareatstiffpeakstagethendropthebaseofthesugarpanintotheicebathThiswillstopthesugarfromcontinuingtocookandthesugarwillremainliquidforyoutopourintotheeggwhitesatthecorrectstageWithallthingsinthekitchennothingbeatsabitofrepetitionandpracticeFromrepeatingthesamerecipesyoulearnthesubtlenuancesofeachingredientandhowitrespondstowhatyoudotoitItwillquicklybecomesecondnature

THECHEESEBOARD

ThereisnodoubtthatBritishartisancheesemakingisundergoingarevivalAspartofadesiretoreconnectwiththephysicalprocessofmakingfoodwewanttotraceourcheesesfromsourcetotableTherichhistoryofBritishcheesealongwiththeintricatespecificsofourregionalrecipesissomethingtoberediscoveredanddevelopedThetechniquesemployedbyartisancheesemakerstodayareforthelargepartthesameasthoseusedsincetimeimmemorialHavingdistinctivestylesofcheesesthroughoutthecountryisbrillianttastelessuniformityisnotAcheesemakershouldhaveadirectlinkwithhisorhermilksupplyInthe

pasttheherdandthedairywouldhavebeenonthesamefarmndashandinsomecasestheystillareThequalityoftheproductisdueinparttothecommunicationbetweenthecheesemakerandthepersonwholooksaftertheherdRegionalorterritorialcheesesarespecifictothelandscapeinwhichtheyaremadeandthegeographicalpositionwilldeterminethecharacterofthepastureonwhichtheanimalsfeedWehavebeenluckyenoughtohostCheeseSchoolatTheEthicurean

OrganisedbyJessTrethowanandFionaBeckettittakesplaceinatentwithwonkytableshurricanelanternsandenoughexpertstosinkabattleshipTherearetalksbycheesemakersbrewersbakersanddrinksexpertsandwefounditaninvaluablewayoflearninghowandwhycertaincheesesworkwithparticularflavoursanddrinksItalsohelpedusunderstandhowthecheesemakingprocessisaffectedbytheseasonsandthedietoftheherdAcelebrationofthedistinctivecharacterofBritishcheesemakingitisachancetoshareanecdotesandknowledgeThewordartisansometimescomesunderfireforitsassociationwith

premiumorhigher-endbutthecostofartisanfoodsisindicativeofthetimeeffortresearchandpassionthatgointocreatingthebestpossibleproductEnsuringthatnotonepersoninthechainoffinancialexchangeslosesoutistheresponsibilityofanybusinessownerAbusinessthatcangrowmakeorbrewagoodproductandturnaprofitwithoutexploitinganotherpersoncontributestoourlocaleconomyinthebestpossiblewayThemoreweinteractwiththepeoplewhoproduceourfoodandwiththelandfromwhichitcomesthemorewecanenjoytheculturalhistoryofourlocalarea

AtTheEthicureanweenjoychoosingtherightpairingforcheeseintheformofpreservesandotheraccompanimentsOurstaplesareHawthornJelly(seehere)quincecheese(knowntotheSpanishasmembrillo)celerysaltpicklesandDarkPlumChutney(seehere)WhenthefigtreedecidestofruitwewilloftenservethefigsalongsidefreshcurdcheesesDuringtheautumnourfavouriteappletoeatwithcheeseisAshmeadrsquosKernelacidicandsweetlikeapeardropOppositearethreeofourfavouritepairingsThekeyistomakesurethe

cheeseisnotoverpoweredbyitsaccompanimentandviceversaWefindpickingoutsingleflavoursinthefoodanddrinkthataresimilarcanleadtoaharmoniousmatchFinallybearinmindthatsaltyfoodscanbenefitfrombeingpairedwithanaccompanimentthatissweetinsomeway

daggerInFoodinEnglandDorothyHartleyemotionallyrecallsthereasonsforthedeclineofBritishcheesebeforetherevivalofthelatetwentiethcenturyItappearsthatmotorisedtransportheraldedtheendoflocalisedcheesemakingasmilkwasthendeliveredtolarge-scalefactoriesFollowingfoodrationinginboththeFirstandSecondWorldWarsthegovernmentonlyallowedhardcheesetobemadeinordertoconserveresourcesndashcheeserationingcontinueduntil1954ThishadaprofoundeffectonBritishcheeseandaccountsfortheubiquityofflavourlessvacuum-packedblocksofvaryingcolourIn1989theMinistryofAgriculturewereonthevergeofbanningtheuseofrawmilkincheesemakingluckilytheywerenotsuccessfulItislittlewonderthatithastakenuntilnowforourartisancheesemakerstobuildmomentumandtheyarecertainlygainingpace

MARMALADEVODKAWITHDORSETBLUEVINNYANDCELERYSALT

ChaseDistillerymakesamarmaladevodkaThisorange-huedtippleismadebymarinatingtheirownsingle-estatevodkadistilledinHerefordwithSevilleorangemarmaladeThevodkaissweetwiththeunmistakablearomaoforangescontrastingwellwiththesaltinessofthecheeseDorsetBlueVinnycopeswiththehighalcoholinthisdrinkinmuchthesamewayasthetraditionalportandStiltoncombinationCeleryandbluecheesearedestinedtobetogetheralittlemoresaltneverdidanyharm

OLDDEMDIKEWITHMEMBRILLOANDPOTHOLERGOLDENALE

ThisisaSomersetversionofManchegoandmembrilloandacompromiseitcertainlyisnotAthinsliverofquincecheesewithsomeofHomewoodCheesesrsquoOldDemdikeisanepiphanyAdelightfuldrinkmatchisanalecalledPotHolerbrewedbyCheddarAlesItisalivelybrewagoldenalethatlikeOldDemdikehasacitrusfruitflavourCheddarAleshavehoppedthisbeerwithablendofEnglishwholehopsThisisaverypleasantmatchindeed

KEENrsquoSCHEDDARWITHSMOKEDCARDAMOMPICKLEDCARROTANDJJJCIDER(JANETrsquoSJUNGLEJUICE)

Wepickledicedrawcarrotincidervinegarcorianderandblackcardamom(seehere)TheaciditycutsrightthroughthisstrongcheeseChooseamedium-drycidersuchasJanetrsquosJungleJuicemadebyWestCroftCidersoitwillbalancetheinherentsalty-sweetnatureofthisunpasteurisedCheddarTheapplearomainboththedrinkandthecidervinegarinthepicklemakeforaclassicpairing

WewouldlovetolistallofthegreatcheesemakersoftheUKHerearejustafewofourfavourites

KEENrsquoSCHEDDAR

UnpasteurisedcowrsquosmilkwithtraditionalanimalrennetMadebytheKeenfamilyonMoorhayesFarmnearWincantonusingatraditionalpintstarterwithyoghurt-likeculturesThecheeseisboundinclothandmaturedforaminimumof10monthssometimesupto18monthsSmoothwithafirmtextureithasalong-lastingflavourthatisacombinationofnutsacidityandearth

OGLESHIELD

UnpasteurisedJerseycowrsquosmilkwithtraditionalanimalrennetMadeinNorthCadburySomersetbyJamieMontgomeryandWayneMitchellAfterbeingrindwashedthecheeseformsastickyorange-colouredrindThetasteissimilartoaracletteanditcooksverywell

DORSETBLUEVINNY

UnpasteurisedcowrsquosmilkwithvegetarianrennetMadeonWoodbridgeFarminDorsetbyMikeDaviesHeuseslsquoleftoverrsquomilkafterthecreamhasbeenskimmedoffforbutter-makingThecheesesarematuredfor3ndash5monthsandhaveasubtleflavourwithacrumblycreamytexture

GORWYDDCAERPHILLY

UnpasteurisedcowrsquosmilkwithtraditionalanimalrennetMadeonGorwyddFarmatLlanddewiBrefiCeredigionbyToddMauganandKimTrethowanThecurdisworkedbyhandandanaturalmouldrindencouragedtodevelopThecheeseiskepttruetotheoriginsoftraditionalCaerphillyasimplefarmhousecheeseeatenyoungorafteralittlematurationIthasaspringycitriclacticcentreoozymushroomycreamundertherindandamustyearthinessintherinditself

SINGLEGLOUCESTER

UnpasteurisedcowrsquosmilkwithvegetarianrennetMadeonStandishParkFarminOxlynchGloucestershirebyJonathanCrumpInthedayswhenallfarmhousesmadecheesethecreamwouldbeskimmedofftheeveningrsquosmilktomakebutterandtheskimmedmilkthatwasleftwasputwiththefollowingmorningrsquosfullmilktomakeSingleGloucestercheeseOurSingleGloucesteristraditionallymaturedandclothbound

KIRKHAMrsquoSLANCASHIRE

UnpasteurisedcowrsquosmilkwithtraditionalanimalrennetMadeonLowerBeesleyFarmnearGoosnarghLancashirebyGrahamKirkhamCurdiscombinedfromthreedaysofcheesemakingndashatechniquethatharksbacktothetraditionofnothavingalargeherdmeaningthecheesemakerwouldneedtoconsolidateafewdaysrsquomilkingVerylittlestarterisusedallowingtheaciditytoriseslowlyGrahamrsquosfathermilksthecowsandtheycandiscusstheherdrsquosdietinthefarmhousekitchenTheentirecheeseissmotheredinbutterratherthanwaxallowingsomeairtopenetrateTheflavourislemonywithamildacidityGrahamdescribesitashavingalsquobutterycrumblersquo

OLDDEMDIKE

UnpasteurisedorganicewersquosmilkwithvegetarianrennetMadebyTimHomewoodandAngelaMorrisinMellsSomersetwithmilkfromShaftesburySimilartoayoungManchegothetasteiscleanandlemony

WIGMORE

UnpasteurisedewersquosmilkwithvegetablerennetMadeinRiseleyBerkshirebyAnneandAndyWigmoreattheendoftheirgardenThisisawashedcurdcheesemeaningaquantityofwheyisremovedduringthemakeandreplacedwithwaterndashatechniquethatreducestheacidityIthasagentleflavourwithatouchofcaramelthetextureissmoothandliabletoformawonderfulgooatroomtemperature

LITTLERYDING

UnpasteurisedewersquosmilkwithvegetarianrennetMadebyJamesandDavidBartlettontheirfamilyfarminNorthWoottonSomersetMouldripenedithasarichcreamytastewithagoodsaltiness

PERROCHE

UnpasteurisedgoatrsquosmilkwithtraditionalanimalrennetMadeatNealrsquosYardCreamerynearDorstoneHerefordshirebyCharlieWesthead(knownaffectionatelytousCharlieCheese)andHadynRobertsAfreshcheeseitstillhasalittlelactictasteIthasalemon-likeflavourwithagoodhelpingofgoat

STAWLEY

UnpasteurisedgoatrsquosmilkwithtraditionalanimalrennetMadeinStawleynearWellingtonSomersetbyCarolineAtkinsonfromhand-ladledcurdsCarolinersquoshusbandWilllooksaftertheirherdofgoatsAmixofmorningandeveningmilksthisbeautifulcheesehasasofttextureandslightlyhoneyedflavourWeregularlyhavebillygoatsonourmenuthattheycannotuseonthefarm

TYMSBORO

UnpasteurisedgoatrsquosmilkwithtraditionalanimalrennetMadeonSleightFarmnearTimsburySomersetbyMaryHolbrookHandladledandmadeinflat-toppedpyramid-shapedValencaymouldsAseriouslysmooth-texturedcheesethetasteislemonnutsandtheinevitablegoatiness

texturedcheesethetasteislemonnutsandtheinevitablegoatiness

LordrsquosLovage

JasonMitchellmakesAshridgeSparklingCideronBarkingdonFarmnearTotnesinDevonwithapplesfromhisunsprayedorchardsHeusesthemeacutethodechampeacutenoisewhichconsistsofatwo-stagefermentFirsttheciderisfermentedusingwildyeaststhenaftersixmonthsitismixedwithchampagneyeastandcanesugarandtransferredtochampagnebottleswhereitundergoesasecondaryfermentationThebottlesarestoredataconsistentlylowtemperatureforayearThisresultsinciderwithveryfinebubblesmuchlikechampagneMixingJasonrsquosciderwithourlovagesyrupwasanextremelygoodidea

HarvestingthesepreciousseedsisapleasureandfindingmoreandmorerecipesforthemisevenbetterThelovagesyrupdespiteitssweetnessaddsa

savourybackgroundnote

SERVES1

125mlAshridgeSparklingCider

FORTHELOVAGESYRUP

1tbsplovageseeds(or1tbspchoppedlovageleaves)150mlcastersugar

Tomakethelovagesyrupplacethelovageandsugarinapanwith150mlwaterandheatgentlystirringtodissolvethesugarBringtoasimmerthenremovefromtheheatandleavetocoolThesyrupwillkeepinthefridgeforupto2weeks

Tomadethedrinksimplypour25mlofthelovagesyrupintoachampagnefluteandtopupwiththecider

daggerLeavingtheciderontheyeastsediment(lees)givesthedrinkitscharacteristictoast-likeflavourThissedimentisremovedbyinvertingthebottlesusingapupitreoveramonthFinallythetopinchofthebotttlecontainingthesedimentisfrozenandremovedandamixtureofciderandsugarisaddedtoreplaceitThereisevidencetosuggestthatthismethodofsecondaryfermentationsoprecioustochampagneproducersbeganwithciderduringtheseventeenthcenturyinEnglandIthasbeenassociatedwithtwoindividualsLordScudamoreandJamesMerretandveryfinegentlemantheyweretoo

AppleFlip

JackdranksomethingsimilartothisattheHindsHeadrestaurantinBrayandwhenhearrivedbackatBarleyWoodheputtogetherthisversionTheflipisarefineddescendentoftheeggdrinksthatwereastapleinAmericaupuntilthemiddleofthenineteenthcenturyEarlyflipswereamixtureofbeerrumeggandsugarpouredfromcontainertocontainertoaeratethemAred-hotpokerwouldthenbeplungedintotheflipcausingittofrothand

red-hotpokerwouldthenbeplungedintotheflipcausingittofrothandaddingaburntcaramelflavourWehavenottriedthisyetbutitbecomesincreasinglytemptingafterafewflipsInEnglandthisstyleofdrinkneverachievedthepopularitythatithadincolonialAmericaalthoughtheegg-baseddrinksofChristmasareareminderoftheseoldstylesWeparticularlyliketheapplejuiceandbrandyblendsmadebyJulian

TemperleyofTheSomersetCiderBrandyCompanyAswellassomeexcellentvintagesofbrandyandciderhehascreatedtwodrinksKingstonBlackandPomonaKingstonBlackisslightlysweeterandissimilarinmanywaystoaPineaudesCharentesorwhiteport

SERVES1

45mlKingstonBlack25ml3-year-oldSomersetCiderBrandy20gcastersugar1free-rangeeggasmallgratingofnutmegalargechunkoficeorenoughicecubestofillacocktailshakerbytwothirds

CombinealltheingredientsexceptthenutmegandiceintheglasspartofaBostonshakerPlacethetinontopandtaptosecureitthenshakevigorouslyBreakaparttheshakerandthenpourthecontentsfromashighupasyoudarebackintothemetalhalfoftheshakerThisaddsevenmoreairtothedrinkDropintheicendashifyouhavealargechunkthiswillchillthedrinkwithoutdilutingittoomuchandwillalsogiveasmoother-texturedflipShakeuntilthesidesoftheshakercondensethenpourtheflipintoaglassusingaHawthornestrainerFinishwithafinegratingofnutmeg

TheOrchardatBarleyWood

BarleyWoodrsquosmainorchardwasthefirstpartoftheWalledGardenwesawwhenwecametolookataprospectiverestaurantwewerethinkingoftakingoverAtfirstsighttheorcharddidnotstandoutasbeingparticularlydifferentfromothersintheareabutafterwehadwalkedaroundwebecamecaptivatedbythehistorybehinditIthadamesmerisingsenseofalivingpastthathadsurvivedthetestoftimendashandcouldcontinuewellintothefutureOurbusinesswasfoundedonthebeliefthatcookingwithlocalseasonalproducewasaprincipleworthstrivingforandhereitwasndashaplacethatperfectlyepitomisedthisidealwiththeorchardatthecentreofitallHavingaccesstotheorchardandthebarnwherethejuicewouldbe

pressedbecameoneofthemostexcitingfacetsofthenewprojectwehadembarkeduponWewouldhavetheopportunitytoplayapartinreignitingthepassionfortheBritishapplendashandwhatbetterproducetoshowcaseour

thepassionfortheBritishapplendashandwhatbetterproducetoshowcaseourbeliefinlocalseasonalproducethantheappleitselfApplesaremostcertainlyseasonalbutalsoextremelyversatileastheykeepwellformanymonthsifyoustorethemproperlyTheygrowwellwithouttheuseofpesticidesorfertilisersastheunsprayedorchardatBarleyWooddemonstratesThereareover70typesofapplegrowingtheremakingitanexcellentlivingmuseumthatfeaturessomeofthebestvarietiesaroundApplesarefascinatingfruitsTheirgeneticmake-upissocomplexthatif

youweretoeatanapplefromaspecifictreeandplantapipfromithopingtoreproducethattreeitishighlyunlikelythatyouwouldendupwiththesamevarietyThisgeneticcharacteristiciswhatledtotheproliferationofvarietiesalthoughnotnecessarilytheonespeoplemostwantedtoeatTheancientprocesscalledgraftingallowedpeopletoreplicatethemostsought-aftervarietiesThissimpleyeteffectivetechniqueconsistsofmakinganincisioninthetree(knownasthestock)andinsertingasegmentofthedesiredtree(calledthescion)ThegraftisthensecuredwithtapeandcoveredwithtartopreventanywaterpenetrationWhatseemstobeafairlyrudimentaryoperationhasworkedremarkablywellforcenturiesThetechniquewasfirstusedbytheChinesebefore2000BCandsubsequentlyinAncientGreeceIntheUKwehavetheVictorianstothankforthemanyvarietiesof

applesthatgrowhereThekeencompetitivespiritofgardenersonVictorianestatessuchasBarleyWoodledthemtoproduceawiderangeoffruitandvegetablessomeofwhicharestillverypopulartodayThereweresomanyapplevarietiesaroundatthattimethatitwouldhavebeenpossibletoeatadifferentappleeachdayforsixyearsCurrentlythereareover2300varietiesofapplespreservedinthe

NationalFruitCollectionatBrogdaleinKentndashalthoughsadly70percentofapplessoldintheUKtodayareimportedApplevarietiesthatkeepwellanddonotbruisewhentransportedhavepushedmanyothertypesoffthemarketOneofouraimsattheWalledGardenistoshowcasethedifferentvarietiesinourcookinginthehopethatthiswillpromotediversityandencouragepeopletoplanttheirfavouritevarietyintheirgardenThesameappliestoourjuicewhichiscarefullyblendedfromtheapplevarietiesthatcomplementeachotherbestNotwobatchesarethesamesincewepresstheapplesastheybecomeripesotheearlierbatcheswilltastedifferentfromtheonesmadepredominantlyfromlate-seasonapplesThejuiceistrulyanartisanproductmadeinamanualwoodenpresssituatedinabarnatthe

artisanproductmadeinamanualwoodenpresssituatedinabarnatthebottomoftheWalledGardenHereisabrieflistofsomeofourfavouritevarietieswhichdeservegreaterrecognition

AshmeadrsquosKernelBlenheimOrangeCheddarCrossMorganSweetOldSomersetRussetJamesGrieveRibstonPippinLaxtonrsquosEpicureTydemanrsquosLateOrangeSummerGoldenPippin

MAKINGAPPLEJUICE

TheapplesarecollectedinseparatetrugsaccordingtotheirvarietythenplacedonametaltableandcleanedthoroughlywithapowerfuljetwashTheyaresubsequentlymovedtoanelectricscratterwhichislikeagiantgraterintheshapeofafunnelThegratedappleisplacedinawoodenframeontopofalsquocheeseclothrsquondasheffectivelyasievethatpreventsanygratedapplepassingthroughndashthenputontopofthewoodenpressTheprocessisrepeateduntilwehavestackedupsevenoreightframesofroughlyonevarietyofappleThismeansitistimetowinddownthepressndashanexhaustingbuthighlyrewardingstageoftheprocessastheblendedapplejuicestartsflowingandyoucanseetheresultofallofyourhardworkMoreimportantlyitisnowtimetodosometastingtoensurethatthejuiceispalatableThisisalsowhenbetsareplacedabouthowmanybottleswewillmakeonthisoccasionWiththehelpofabottlefillerwedecantthejuiceintoglass

bottlesWeliketouseclearglassasitshowsthewonderfulambercolourofthejuiceMostproducersaddascorbicacidtopreventoxidationThisresultsinagreencolourwhichwearetoldistheshadeofapplejuicethepublicisusedtoWedefiantlybelievethatthenaturalambercolourofthejuiceisbeautifulandshouldbecelebratedsoweomittheascorbicacidThebottlesareplacedinapasteurisingunitsetatover70degC

for20minutestoensurethatwecankeepthejuiceforuptoayear

MAKINGAPPLEJUICEATHOME

OnaverysmallscaleathomeyoucanmakeapplejuiceUseajuiceextractorifyouhaveoneorablenderandasieveThisisthesimplestmethodandisconvenientifyouhaveatreeinyourbackgardensoyoucanpickjusttheapplesthatyouneedforthatdayThejuicewillkeepforadayifstoredinthefridgebutwithoutpasteurisationyouwonrsquotbeabletokeepitformuchlongerIfyouareinterestedinlarger-scaleproductionathomeyou

canbuyatablepresswithacapacityofanythingfrom5to40litresDependingonitssizeyoumightneedtocuttheapplesupbeforepressingthemTopasteurisethejuicesimplyplaceitinasaucepanandheatuntilitreachesatemperatureofjustover70degCthenkeepitatthistemperaturefor20minutesYouwillneedtoinvestinagoodthermometertoensurenotonlythatthecorrecttemperatureisreachedbutthatitismaintainedfortherequiredtimeTransfertosterilisedbottlesAlternativelyyoucanpasteurisethejuiceinsterilisedbottles

thatarespecificallydesignedtowithstandtheheatofpasteurisationFillthemwiththejuice(butleavethelidsoff)TakealargedeeppanthatwillholdthebottlesstandinguprightandfillitwithwaterHeatuntilthetemperaturereaches70degCthenaddthebottlesandcheckthetemperatureofthewateragainOnceithasreturnedto70degCleavethebottlesfor20minutesthenremoveandscrewthelidsonThisprocesswillallowyoutokeepthejuiceforuptoayear

daggerWithover70applevarietiesintheorchardsattheWalledGardenittooksometimeuntilwecouldtriumphantlysaythatwehadsampledeachandeveryoneofthemSadlyMorganSweetwasnotavarietythatwechosetosamplefirstItisdreary-lookingandwebecametoosmittenwithAshmeadKernelstospareanytimeforothertypesWegotsuspiciousaboutthesehiddengemswhenanelderlycouplecameintothegardenslookingspecificallyforMorganSweetsThatyearwehadacopiouscropandgladlyletthemhaveabucketfulAfterthecouplersquosthirdvisitwethoughtwehadbettertrythemBecausetheywerelabelledasciderapplesweexpectedthemtobetoosharptoeatAsinglemouthfulwasenoughtoputtheirnameintocontextMorganSweetswerepopularinSomersetinthefirsthalfofthetwentiethcenturyOuroldercustomerstellustheywerecherishedtreatsduringtheWarwhenfoodwasscarceWealsohearofMorganSweetsbeinggreatscrumpingprizessovaluableat

wartimethattreelocationswerekeptsecrettoensureasteadysupplyforthoseintheknowTheseapplesareextremelyjuicywhenripeandweinitiallyaddedthem

toourapplejuicetobalancethesournessofearlycropsWewouldlovetoseearevivalofMorganSweetapplesintheUKifonlyasapoignantreminderofhowcertainvarietiesbecomeunfairlypigeonholedasdessertcidercookingtypes

SalsifyandOgleShieldGratin

ThesalsifyatBarleyWoodgrowsoppositethemainentrancetotherestaurantItisstunningtolookatespeciallywhenitsdelicateflowersturnintoanenormouslysoftdandelionastheygotoseedSeeingitdailyforawholeseasonencouragesustoincludeitineveryformofrecipeWecameupwiththisdishwhenagardeningmagazineaskedusto

produceasetoflunchtimerecipesforgardenerstoeatwhileatworkndashsomethingthatcouldbepreparedinadvancebutenjoyedoutdoorsItwasoriginallyintendedtobeeatencoldHoweverassoonasweaddedthecheeseittookonawholenewdimensionandwebecameconvincedthatourconcoctionhadtoeatenwhilestillhotOgleShieldisaworthySomersetequivalenttoFrenchracletteItmelts

verywellandinouropinionisoneofthebestcheesesforgratinsWedareanyonewhodoesnotlikecheesetotryameltingsliceofOgleShieldIthastheabilitytoturnanycheesescepticintoatrueturophile

SERVES4ndash6

1tbspcidervinegar600gsalsify200mlwhitewine800mlvegetablestock(seehere)200gOgleShieldcheese(orraclette)50gbutter65gplainflour

2tbspdoublecreamfrac12nutmegfinelygratedseasaltandfreshlygroundwhitepepper

Heattheovento180degCGasMark4FillalargebowlwithwaterandaddthevinegartoitWorkingquicklypeelthesalsifyandwashthoroughlyundercoldwaterCutitinto10cmlengthsandthenslicethemthinlylengthwayspreferablyonamandolinetoachieve10cmbatonsAssoonaseachlengthhasbeenslicedplaceittheacidulatedwaterThiswillpreventthesalsifyoxidisingandturningbrown

PutthewhitewineandvegetablestockinapanandbringtotheboilStrainthesalsifyaddtothepanandcookfor6ndash8minutesuntilitistenderbutretainsaslightbiteStrainthesalsifyretainingthecookingliquorReturntheliquortothepanandboiluntilreducedbytwothirds

Meanwhilethinlyslice150gofthecheeseandgratetherestArrangealayerofsalsifyinagratindishapproximately23cmtimes13cmcompletelycoveringthebaseAddanotherlayerofsalsifyfollowedbyathinlayerofOgleShieldslicesandrepeatuntilallthesalsifyandslicedcheesehavebeenadded

MeltthebutterinasaucepanaddtheflourandstirtomakeathickpasteGraduallypourinthereducedcookingliquorstirringconstantlyYoumaynotneedalltheliquidndashstopwhentheconsistencyislikesinglecreamStirinthedoublecreamthenaddthenutmegandsomesaltandpeppertotaste

SlowlypourthesauceoverthelayeredgratinCoverthedishwithfoilplaceintheovenandbakefor25minutesRemovethefoilsprinklethegratedcheeseoverthetopandplaceunderahotgrilluntilthecheesehasmeltedandbeguntobrown

VincentCastellanorsquosVenisonChorizo

OurfriendVincentCastellanoputtogetherthisrecipeforwhenwehaveahealthy-sizedroebuckinthekitchenHebeganhiscareerasapot-washeratacharcuterieinGrenobleintheearly1970sSeeingwholepigsarrivingonaMondayandleavingasterrinespacircteacutessalamiandhamsjustafewdayslaterinspiredhimtoturnasummerjobintoatwo-yearapprenticeshipHemovedtotheUKin1983andworkedasachefsincetherewerefewopportunitiesforcharcutiersthenItisonlyinthelastdecadethathehastakenuphisoriginalprofessionfulltimeonceagainfirmlydeclaringlsquoItiswhatIknowbestrsquoTheUKhasneverdevelopedatraditionofcuredsausagesforthesimple

reasonithasadampclimateInsteadwehavebecomeexpertsatmakingfreshsausagesThecountrieswithacultureofdry-curedmeatsarelargelyconfinedtomountainousregionswithaprevailingdrywindfromthenorthTheSpanishhavedevelopedaparticularskillincuringthathasevolvedinpartduetotheiridealweatherconditionsTherecipewehavedevelopedwithVincentisbasedonatraditionalcured

SpanishchorizocontainingpaprikasmokedpaprikaandgarlicOurversionalsoincludesturmericclovesjunipercorianderandsmokedchilliplusourownsloeginAlternativelyourhousevermouth(seehere)worksbeautifullyBothofferagentlebackgroundflavourDuringautumnwemakethechorizowithneckandshouldercutsfromaroebuckDuetoitslowfatcontentadditionalfatisneededsoweaddporkbellyandbackfattakenfromGloucesterOldSpotpigsThesausageishungfor6ndash7weeksduringwhichtimeitisfermentedbylactic-producingbacteriaTheincreaseinacidandtheparalleldehydrationcoupledwiththehighsaltcontentpreservethechorizowhileintensifyingitsflavourForthecasingVincentusesoxrunnersanaturalporouscasingdistinguishedbyitsgentlecurveTheingredientsbelowaregiveninrelationto1kgoftotalmeatA

manageableamounttomakeis3kgwhichwillfilla3-metrelengthofhogcasing(32mmdiameter)ora15-metrelengthofoxrunners(50ndash55mmdiameter)ThequantityofcuringsaltiscriticalbutalltheotherspicescanbeadjustedaccordingtotasteThecuringsaltcontainssaltpetrewhichpreservesthecolourofthemeatandinhibitsunwelcomebacterialgrowth

Youwillneedasausagemakeroramixerwithasausage-makingattachmentThesecanbeboughtonlinefromwwwweschenfeldercoukwhichalsosellscuringsaltandcasingsAlltheequipmentusedformakingthesausagesshouldbesterilisedfirst

hogcasings(forsmallerchorizo)oroxrunners(forlargerones)alittlevinegar

EACHKILOOFMEATSHOULDCONSISTOFTHEFOLLOWING

800gbonelessvenisonshoulderbellyflapandneckmeat100gporkbelly100gporkbackfat

FORTHESEASONINGS(ALLCALCULATEDPERKILOOFMEAT)

25gcuringsalt20mlsloeginorvermouth20gpaprika5gsmokedpaprika3gsmokedchillipowder1gcayennepepper1gturmeric2ggarlicpowderfrac14tspgroundcumin1ggroundcorianderfrac14tspgroundcloves⅛tspgroundjuniper⅛tspgroundstaranise

ThoroughlywashthesaltoffthecasingsthensoaktheminalargeplastictubofcoldwaterforatleastanhourChangethewateradding1partvinegarto40partswaterandsoakfor30minutesbeforeuse

Cutallthemeatinto3ndash5cmpiecesplaceinabowlandaddthecuringsaltMixthoroughlyandthenstoreinthefridgefor24hoursMixinthealcoholandreturntothefridgeforafurther24hours

Mincethemeatonthefinesettingofamincer(an8mmmincingplate)ensuringthatthetemperatureremainsbelow8degCAddtheremainingseasoningsandmixuntilalltheingredientsadheretogetherthenpressthemixdownfirmlywithyourhandsinordertopushoutasmuchairaspossiblePlaceinasausagefiller

Ifusingoxrunnerscuttheminto30cmlengthsbeforefillingHogcasingscanbefilledcontinuouslyandtiedinto15cm-longsausages

MakeaknotatoneendofyourchosencasingslidetheotherendoverthenozzleofthesausagefillerandfillgraduallyensuringenoughtensioniskeptRemovefromthefillerandtietheendastightlyaspossiblewithstringmakingaloopinitwithwhichtohangthesausagePricktheskinwithaneedletoletoutanyairpockets

Hangthechorizoatroomtemperature(ideally25degC)for24hoursAfterthisstagethechorizocanbeusedforcookingIfyouwantacuredsausagemovethechorizotohanginacoolplace(preferably12ndash14degC)withahumiditylevelof80percentndashyoucanbuyhygrometersingardencentreswithwhichtocheckthehumidityOverthenextfewdaysawhitelsquomouldrsquoshoulddevelopontheskinMaturationcantakefrom3weeks(forhogcasings)to7weeks(foroxrunners)ItrsquosworthcheckingyourchorizoonadailybasisBecauseitisdependentontemperaturehumiditylevelsandthelengthanddiameterofthesausagethematurationtimewillvaryWhenthechorizoisreadyitwillfeelfirmwhensqueezedIfyousliceitwithasharpknifethemeatshouldholdtogetherwellTheskincanbeeatenorremovedasyoupreferTheflavourofthechorizoshouldbeintensewithagoodacidityandsweetnessandspiceflavourscomingthroughintheaftertasteItwillkeepwellinthebottomofthefridgewrappedinfoiloracleanclothforuptoamonth

BASICRECIPES

Stocks

AgoodstockisavitalcomponentofyourrepertoireStockformsthebaseofcountlessdishesandhavingastockthatpacksamassivepunchofflavourmeansthatyouarehalfwaytocreatingadeliciousmealInvestingalittlebitoftimeandmoneyinstockisaworthycauseandweguaranteeyouitwillimproveyourcookingnoendManypeoplendashchefsincludedndashonlyusebonesforstock-makingWelike

tousetheslightlytoughermoreflavourfulcutsofmeatndashtheycanboostastockrsquoscomplexityandtheyrsquorealsoquitecheaptheymaycostalittlemorethanbonesbuttheextraflavourmorethanmakesupforitCombinethatwithagoodratioofvegetablesandherbstweakingthesweetnessorfreshnessaccordingtotasteIainlikestousemorecarrotsonionsandgarlictoachieveasweeterresultHerbscanbeaddedattheveryendaddingfreshnesstothebaseflavourYoucanevenaddthemasawarminfusionrightatthelastsecondThisgivesyougreatcontrolovertheflavourofthestockYoucanmaketherecipesinthisbookforimmediateuseordoubleor

triplethequantitiesandfreezemostinsmallbatchesforupto3monthsIfyoudevotehalfadayorsoeverymonthtomakingstocksyoushouldhaveaconstantsupplyinthefreezerAsalwaysusetheserecipesasaguideandonceyouunderstandthebasicprinciplesexperimentSomeofourdisheshaveundergonecountlessreinventionstogetthemtowheretheyarenowWemakeallourstocksinthepressurecooker(formoreonpressurecookingandwhywedothisseehere)

BeefStock

YIELDSABOUT2KG

1kgbeefboneschoppedinto25ndash5cmpieces(askyourbutchertodothis)600goxtailsectioned

rapeseedoil

rapeseedoil360gonionsfinelysliced1kgbeefshinorchuckchoppedinto25cmcubes220gcarrotsfinelysliced130gbuttonmushroomsfinelysliced220gtomatoesslicedfrac12smallheadofgarlicseparatedintoclovesandsmashedwiththeflatsideofaknifeHeattheovento180degCGasMark4LightlyandthoroughlyrubthebonesandtheoxtailwithrapeseedorvegetableoilPlaceinaroastingtray(orseparateroastingtraysifnecessary)androastfor45ndash60minutesturningthepiecesevery15minutesuntildarkgoldenbrownIfanypartsoftheoxtailbecomebrownbeforeeverythingelseremovefromtheovenandsetaside

MeanwhilecoatthebottomofapressurecookerwithrapeseedoilandplaceoveramediumheatAddtheonionsandcookoveramedium-lowheatuntildarkandcaramelisedndashthiswilltakeabout30ndash45minutesstirringregularlyandscrapinganystickybitsfromthebottomofthepanDonotallowtoburnTakeofftheheatandallowtocool

HeatafryingpanuntilextremelyhotAddafilmofrapeseedoiltheoilshouldbegintosmokeIfitdoesnotthenkeepontheheatuntilsmokinghotAddthebeefshinorchuckandcookturninguntildarkbrownonallsidesavoidingburningTakethemeatoutofthepanandsetasideDrainanyfatoutofthepanbeforeplacingthepanbackonahighheatAddenoughwatertocoverthebaseofthepanandbringtotheboilScrapeawayanyleftoversthatarestucktothebottomofthepanAddthisdeglazingliquidtothepressurecooker

WipeoutyourfryingpanaddafilmofrapeseedoilandplaceoveramediumheatAddthecarrotsandfryuntilsoftandlightlygolden(about20ndash30minutes)AddthecarrotstothecookedonionsalongwiththemushroomsandsetasideuntilreadytouseDeglazethepanusingthesamemethodasaboveandaddtheliquidtothepressurecooker

RepeatingtheprocessfrythetomatoesinoiluntiltheytakeonsomecolourscrapingoffanystickybitsfromthebottomofthepanAddthegarlicandfryforafurthercoupleofminutesensuringnothingburnsAddthe

fryforafurthercoupleofminutesensuringnothingburnsAddthetomatoesandgarlictothepressurecookeranddeglazethefryingpanwithwaterasbeforeAddthedeglazingliquidtothepressurecooker

RemovethebonesfromtheovenwhentheyareadeepgoldencolourPouroffanyexcessfatfromtheroastingtrayPlacethebonesandoxtailinthepressurecookerPuttheroastingtray(s)overahighheatDeglazewithwaterasbeforeandaddtheliquidtothepressurecooker

AddenoughwatertothepressurecookersothattheingredientsareonlyjustcoveredPlaceoveramedium-highheatandbringtoagentlesimmerskimmingawayanyfatandimpuritiesthatrisetothesurfaceOnceatagentlesimmerplacethelidonthepressurecookerandturntheheatuptofullAllowthepressurecookertocometofullpressurebeforereducingtheheatCookatfullpressurefor2hoursRemovefromtheheatandallowthepressurecookertocooltoroomtemperaturebeforeremovingthelidStrainthestockthroughtwolayersofwetmuslinImmediatelychillinabowlsetoveranotherbowlfilledwithiceRemovethelayeroffatthatformsbeforeusingUsewithin4daysorfreezeforupto3months

Whitechickenstock

WeusewhitechickenstockwhenwewantagreatbaseflavourthatdoesnrsquotoverpowerthetasteorcolourofothermoredelicateingredientsItismoresubtlethanourbrownchickenstock(seehere)Thevegetablesaregentlysoftenedandthebonesbrieflyblanchedtoremoveanyimpuritiesthenpressurecookedfor90minutesItisgreatforrisottossoupsandsauces

YIELDSABOUT2KG

15kgchickenwingschoppedinto3ateachjointrapeseedoil300gonionsfinelysliced150gcarrotsfinelysliced120gbuttonmushroomsfinelysliced4garlicclovessmashedwiththeflatsideofaknifePutthechickenwingsinasaucepanandcoverwithcoldwaterPlaceonamediumheatandbringtotheboilskimmingoffanyscumthatrisestothesurfaceOnceboiling

totheboilskimmingoffanyscumthatrisestothesurfaceOnceboilingdrainimmediatelydiscardingthewaterRinsethewingsthoroughlyundercoldwater

Coatthebottomofapressurecookerwithafilmofrapeseedoilandplaceoveramedium-lowheatAddallthevegetablesandcookuntilsoftenedwithoutcolouringthiswilltakeabout10ndash15minutesAddthechickenwingsandenoughcoldwaterjusttocoverPlaceonamedium-highheatandbringtoagentlesimmerskimmingawayanyfatandimpuritiesthatrisetothesurfaceOnceatagentlesimmerplacethelidonthepressurecookerandturntheheatuptofullAllowthepressurecookertocometofullpressurebeforereducingtheheatCookatfullpressurefor90minutes

RemovefromtheheatandallowtocooltoroomtemperaturebeforeremovingthelidStrainthroughtwoormorelayersofwetmuslinoraveryfinechinoisorsieveImmediatelychillinabowlsetoveranotherbowlfilledwithice(orputstraightintothefridge)Usewithin4daysorfreezeforupto3months

BrownChickenStock

YIELDSABOUT2KG

2kgchickenwingschoppedinto3ateachjointafewtablespoonsofskimmedmilkpowder(seeboxbelow)rapeseedorgroundnutoil

300gonionsfinelysliced150gcarrotsfinelysliced150gbuttonmushroomsfinelysliced4garlicclovessmashedwiththeflatsideofknife(or2wetgarlicclovesifavailableandinseason)Heattheovento200degCGasMark6PlacethewingsinaroastingtrayevenlyspreadinasinglelayerandsprinkleoverenoughmilkpowdertolightlycoatthemRoastfor45ndash60minutesturningevery15minutesuntilthewingsareabeautifuldarkbrowncolourThefirsttimeyouturnthewingsgivethepaleundersidealightsprinklingofmilkpowdertooThiswillensurethewingsareanevencolourandimpartmoreflavourintothestock

PlacethepressurecookeroveramediumheattogetitwarmbeforeaddingenoughrapeseedoiltocoverthebottomAddtheonionsReducetoamedium-lowheatandcooktheonionsuntilstickyandcaramelisedthiswilltakeabout30ndash45minutesStirthemregularlytakingcarenottoletthemburnandadjustingtheheatasneededScrapeanystickybitsoffthebottomofthepanWhentheonionsarecaramelisedaddthecarrotsandcookuntilsoftRemovefromtheheatandaddthemushroomsandgarlicSetaside

WhenthewingsareevenlycolouredremovefromtheovenanddrainthefatfromthetrayPlaceallthewingsintothepressurecooker

PlacetheroastingtrayoverahighheatandaddacoveringofwaterandbringtotheboilScrapeoffthestickybitsofmeatwithaspatulaorwoodenspoonPourthedeglazingliquidandcrispybitsofmeatintothepressurecooker

AddenoughcoldwatertothepressurecookertojustcoverthebonesPlaceonamedium-highheatandbringtoagentlesimmerskimmingawayanyfatandimpuritiesthatrisetothesurfaceOnceatagentlesimmerplacethelidonthepressurecookerandturntheheatuptofullAllowthepressurecookertocometofullpressurebeforereducingtheheatCookatfullpressurefor2hours

RemovefromtheheatandallowtocoolnaturallytoroomtemperaturebeforereleasingthelidRemovethelidbeforestrainingthestockthroughseverallayersofwetmuslinorthroughaveryfinechinoisorsieveRefrigerateimmediatelyremovingthelayeroffatfromthetopbeforeuseUsewithin4daysorfreezeforupto3months

UsingmilkpowdertodustthewingsmayseemalittleoddbutthemilkpowderisextraproteinthatbooststheMaillard

Reaction(thebrowningonmeatthatgivesititscharacteristicflavour)ItisarevelationItgivestheliquidanextrahitof

meatinessandresultsinastockthatisarichdeepbrownItrsquosanexcellentandsimplewayofboostingyourstockrsquosflavourprofile

Fishstock

YIELDSABOUT1KG

rapeseedoil100gonionfinelysliced80gcarrotsfinelysliced80gbuttonmushroomfinelysliced1tspfennelseed1tspcorianderseed1kgfishbones(avoidoilyfishlikemackereltroutorsalmon)PlaceapressurecookeroveramediumheatandaddathinfilmofrapeseedoilAddalltheingredientsexceptthefishbonesandcookuntilsoftenedndashthiswilltakeabout5ndash10minutesAddthefishbonestothepressurecookerandaddenoughcoldwaterjusttocover

Placeoveramedium-highheatandbringtoagentlesimmerskimmingoffanyimpuritiesthatrisetothesurfaceOnceatagentlesimmerplacethelidonthepressurecookerandturntheheatuptofullAllowthepressurecookertocometofullpressurebeforereducingtheheatCookatfullpressurefor20minutesRemovefromtheheatandallowtocooltoroomtemperatureStrainthroughtwolayersofwetmuslinintoabowlsetoveranotherbowlfilledwithiceRefrigerateforupto3daysorfreezeforupto1month

VegetableStock

ThisvegetablestockisdelicatesweetandlightlyaromaticItrsquosgreatinrisottossoupsstewsandformakingvegetariansaucesForconveniencemakeatleastdoublethisrecipeandfreezesmallerquantitiesforuseatalaterdate

YIELDSABOUT1KG

rapeseedorvegetableoil550gonionsfinelysliced500gcarrotfinelysliced500gmushroomsfinelysliced(buttonorbrown)200gceleryfinelysliced10garliccloves(or1smallgarlicbulb)smashedwiththeflatsideofaknife2tbspcorianderseed

1tbspfennelseeds4wholestaranises2tspblackpeppercorns2bayleaves

PlaceapressurecookeroveramediumheatandaddathinfilmofrapeseedoilAddallthevegetablestothepanandsweatfor5ndash10minutesuntilthevegetableshavesoftenedAddallthespicesandbayleavesandcoverwithwaterAddthelidandturntheheatuptofullBringtofullpressureandthenreducetheheatCookatfullpressurefor15minutesRemovefromtheheatandallowtocooltoroomtemperature

RemovethelidandpassthestockthroughtwolayersofwetmuslinRefrigerateimmediatelyandusewithin5daysorfreezeforupto3months

MushroomStock

ThismushroomstockisoneofthemoresimplestocksthatyouwillcomeacrossutilisingonlytwoingredientsItssimplicitydoesnotdetractfromitsabilitytoimpartarichumamiflavourintothedish(seehere)ortohelpboostthistasteindishesalreadyrichinumami

YIELDSABOUT500G

500gbuttonorportobellomushroomsfinelysliced500gcoldwater

PutthemushroomsandwaterinapressurecookerandplaceoverahighheatBringtofullpressurebeforeturningtheheatdowntolowCookatfullpressurefor15minutesbeforeturningtheheatoffAllowtocoolto

fullpressurefor15minutesbeforeturningtheheatoffAllowtocooltoroomtemperatureRemovethelidandstrainthestockthroughtwolayersofwetmuslinRefrigerateimmediately

Usewithin5daysorfreezeforupto3months

TomakethisstockwithoutapressurecookerplacetheingredientsinasaucepanandbringtoasimmerKeepatasteadysimmerfor20minutesbeforeremovingfromtheheatAllowtocoolbeforestrainingandrefrigeratingasabove

TheEthicureanSaladDressing

100grapeseedoil60gvintagecidervinegarsuchasOstlerrsquos8gDijonmustardfrac14tspxanthangum(optionalbutrecommended)

AddalltheingredientsexcepttheoiltoablenderorstickblenderjugBlitzonfullspeedfor30secondsbeforeslowlypouringintheoilasyouwouldtomakeamayonnaiseContinueaddinginathinsteadystreamuntilalltheoilisincorporatedBlitzforafurther30secondsonfullspeedRefrigerateforuptoaweek

TomakebyhandcombinealltheingredientsexcludingtheoilinabowlWhiskvigorouslyuntilairyGraduallyaddtheoilwhilewhiskinghard

DarkPlumChutney

MAKESABOUT1KG

550gplumshalvedandstoned450mlmaltvinegar550gdarkbrownsugar300gsultanas150gonionsfinelydiced

10ggarlicfinelydiced35gsalt10gmustardseeds15ggroundgingerfrac12tsponion(nigella)seedsfrac12tspgroundstaranisefrac12tspgroundcinnamon1blackcardamompod

Puttheplumsinalargeheavy-basedsaucepanorapreservingpanalongwiththevinegarandsugarSimmeruntilthefruitbreaksdownthenaddalltheremainingingredientsReturntoasimmerandcookforaround40minutesuntilthickenedStiroftenwhilebeingmindfulofsplashesIthasatendencytospitwhenitisclosetothecorrectconsistencyWhenitisreadyallthethinliquidwillhaveevaporatedandthechutneywillsmelldeeplyrichlikeliquorice

Pourcarefullyintohotsterilisedjars(seehere)andsealInvertthejarsforamomenttoensurethelidsaresterilisedthenturntherightwayupandleavetocoolwhileyouwritealabelforeachjar

PickledBeetroot

PreservingvegetableswithsaltandvinegarisinvaluabletoaseasonalkitchenThismethodalsosuitscarrotcauliflowerandanyotherfirmvegetablesThemethodofcalculatingthesaltandvinegarcontentinthismethodisadaptabletovaryingweightsofproduceandthereforegreatforseasonalglutsChangethespicestosuittheveg

450gpeeledbeetrootcubedinto1cmcubescidervinegarfineseasalt4staranise1tsppeppercorns1tspcuminseeds

1tspcuminseeds

Sprinklethebeetrootgenerouslywithsaltandleavefor1hourDrainandrinseundercoldwater

Placethebeetrootintoa500mlKilnerjarorliddedtupperwarecontainerPlacethecontaineronasetofscalesandsetthemtozero(orlsquotarersquo)CoverthecontentsinwaterandmakeanoteoftheweightDiscardthewaterWeighoutthesameamountofcidervinegarasittookwatertocoverthebeetrootCalculate10percentofthisweightandaddthatweightinsalt(eg200gofcidervinegarwouldrequire20gsalt)PlacethevinegarsaltandspicesinasaucepanoveramediumheatandbringtotheboilImmediatelypourthehotliquidoverthebeetrootinthejarorcontainerEnsurethebeetrootiscompletelycoveredbeforesealingthelidandallowingtocooltoroomtemperatureRefrigerateonceopenedItwillkeepforupto2months

PickledNasturtiumSeeds

AtthestartofNovemberasthefirstfrostsdescendthenasturtiumsthathavebeensousefulfortheirleavesandflowerswillbegintogotoseedAself-seedingplantsuchasthiswonrsquotmissafewseedpodssoweharvestasmanyaswecanandpicklethemasalsquopoormanrsquoscaperrsquo

asmanynasturtiumseedpodsasyoucanfindfineseasalt

PERLITREOFPICKLINGORCIDERVINEGAR

picklingorcidervinegar10gseasaltor10percentbyweightofvinegar2cloves4freshbayleaves5allspiceberries5blackpeppercorns

Sprinklethenasturtiumseedpodsgenerouslywithsaltandleavefor1hourDrainandrinseundercoldwater

Placethenasturtiumseedpodsintoa500mlKilnerjarorliddedtupperwarecontainerPlacethecontaineronasetofscalesandsetthemtozero(orlsquotarersquo)CoverthecontentsinwaterandmakeanoteoftheweightDiscardthewaterWeighoutthesameamountofcidervinegarasittookwatertocovertheseedpodsCalculate10percentofthisweightandaddthatweightinsalt(eg100gofcidervinegarwouldrequire10gsalt)PlacethevinegarsaltandspicesinasaucepanoveramediumheatandbringtotheboilImmediatelypourthehotliquidovertheseedpodsinthejarorcontainerEnsuretheseedpodsarecompletelycoveredbeforesealingthelidInvertthejarsforamomenttoensurethelidsaresterilisedbeforeallowingtocooltoroomtemperatureRefrigerateonceopenedandkeepforupto1month

PickledCarrots

250gcarrotscutinto1cmcubescidervinegar4blackcardamompods2tbspcorianderseedsseasalt

StartbygenerouslysprinklingthecubedcarrotswithsaltSetasidefor1hourforthemoisturetobedrawnout

DrainthecarrotsandrinseoffanyexcesssaltPlaceinatupperwarecontainerlargeenoughjusttoholdthemPlacethecontaineronasetofscalesandsetthemtozero(orlsquotarersquo)CoverthecontentsinwaterandmakeanoteoftheweightDiscardthewaterWeighoutthesameamountofcidervinegarasittookwatertocoverthecarrotsCalculate10percentofthisweightandaddthatweightinsalt(eg200gofcidervinegarwouldrequire20gsalt)PlacethevinegarandsaltinasaucepanwiththecardamomandcorianderandbringtotheboilOnceboilingremovefromtheheatandpouroverthecarrotsAllowtocooltoroomtemperaturebeforerefrigeratingThepickledcarrotswillkeepforupto4weeks

WinterFruitJelly

WehaveahedgerowthatreadslikeabookofautumnandwinterfruitsndashblackberrybullacedamsonhawthornloganberryrosehiprowanandsloePreservingthemasjelliesgivesusfreshburstsofvitaminCthroughthewinterandaddsdepthtodishescookedoverthecoldermonthsUsewhateverfruitsyouhaveinwhatevercombinationfollowingthis

basicmethodWehavefoundthatfreezingtheberriesfirstandthensteamingforjuiceextractionproducesasatisfyingclearjellyThesecondbenefittofreezingthefruitisthatyouwillhavealittlemoretimetoforagebeforemakingyourjellyWedevelopedthismethodafterwelearntthatrowanberriesrequire

freezingbeforeuseastheycontainparasorbicacidanacidthatisindigestibletohumansThisaciddegradestoasafesorbicacidwhenfrozenOursteambasketmethodforextractingjuicefromfruitprovedtobemoreeffectivewhenthefruithadspenttimeinthefreezerpresumablybecausethecellwallsarebrokendownbyfreezingtherebyreleasingmoreliquidatthesteamingstage

MAKESABOUT5JARSPERKGOFFRUIT

500ghedgerowfruit500gBramleyorcrabapplespeeledandroughlychopped(pipsandcoresleftin)750gcastersugarperlitrekgofjuice

30mlorganicpreservative-freelemonjuice(bottledjuicehasasetacidity)perlitrekgofjuiceYOUWILLALSONEED

ajamthermometerordigitalkitchenprobeasheetofmuslinsterilisedjamjarsandlidsorKilnerjars(seehereforinstructionsonsterilising)LineasteamingbasketwithafoldedpieceofmuslinthisisnotessentialthoughitwillallowonlyjuicetofallintothepanbelowaidingtheclarityofthefinishedjellyPlacethehedgerowfruitandBramleyorcrabapplesinthesteamingbasketandsteamoverapanofboilingwatersetoveramediumtolowheatfor1frac12hoursRemoveboththesteamerandwaterfromtheheatandleavetocoolanddrainovernight

ThenextdaycheckthatthefruitiswelldrainedYoucansqueezeanylastmoisturefromthemuslinbutthiswillmakethejellycloudyCompostordiscardthenowflavourlessfruit

MeasurethevolumeoftheliquidinthepanndashorbetterstillweighitforaccuracyndashandpourintoalargecleanstainlesssteelpanAdd750gofsugarand30mloflemonjuiceperkiloofliquidCookoverahighheatstirringuntilthesugarisdissolvedLeavetoboilvigorouslywithoutstirringfor10ndash20minutesandthencheckthetemperatureitshouldbearound102degCYouareaimingforasettingpointtemperatureofabout103ndash105degCIfyoudonrsquothaveathermometerputaspoonfulofthejamsyrupontoachilledplateandplaceinthefridgefor1minuteSlideyourfingeracrosstheplateintothedotofsyrupandseewhetheritcrinklesupandholdsformforamomentIfitdoesthenithasreachedsettingpointIfnotcontinuetocookthejellyoverthesamehighheattestingevery5minutesAperfectlysetjellyoncechilledwillonlygiveslightresistancetoaspoonandholdshape(Itisworthnotingthatajellythatisover-firmismoreusefulthanonethathasnotsetatallsountilyouareconfidentwithyourthermometeraimforthehigherendofthetemperaturesettingzone)Skimthejelly(oraddalittleknobofbutterandstir)toremoveanyscumthencarefullypourintowarmsterilisedjarsleavingacentimetreofspaceatthetopClosethelidstightlytheninvertthemfornomorethanaminutetoensurethelidisheatedwellandsterilisedReturntoanuprightpositionandleavetocoolbeforestoringinadarkcoolplaceforimmediateconsumptionoruptooneyear

VARIATIONS

CrabapplemedlarandquincewillworkperfectlywellwithoutadditionalpectinfromBramleyapplesbutbesuretoincludetheircoresandpipsduringsteamingandthecitrusduringcookingtosetthemYoucanincludeextraappletoincreasethevolumeifyoulikeQuinceneedtheirfinedownyhairswashingoffpriortocookingQuincejellyhaspineappleovertonesandanunbelievableamberglowwhenfinishedinthejarThemedlarsneedtobelsquoblettedrsquobeforeusingTheyfallfromthetreestillhardandneedtobeleftsomewherecooltogosoftsquishyandblackenedCrabapplejellyisagreatvehicleforotherherbswhichyoucanaddduringthesteamingprocessStaraniselavendertarragonrosemarymintandsageareallgreatandgeraniumleafworkedatreatwhenwetrieditonawhim

Flakypastry

MakingflakypastryisalengthybutrelativelysimpleprocessItrequires

MakingflakypastryisalengthybutrelativelysimpleprocessItrequiresrestingforanhourbetweeneachlsquoturnrsquo(aturnreferstoeachtimeithasbeenrolledoutbutterandlardaddedthenfoldedandreturnedtothefridge)AlwaysresistanyurgetokneadasthiswillmakethepastryelasticPerfect

flakypastryshouldbecrispandverylightWhatyouwantisapastrythatincorporatesthemultilayeredfatandpocketsofairthatcreatetheflakytexture

150gsaltedbutteratroomtemperaturebutnotoily150glardatroomtemperaturebutnotoily350gstrongwhiteflour1tspfineseasalt1frac12tsplemonjuice

Measureout200mlcoldwateraddahandfuloficecubesandsetaside

PutthebutterandlardinasmallmixingbowlandmixtogetherwithawoodenspoonThiswilltakesomeworkbuttheaimistogetthetwofairlyhomogenousWeighoutthree70gportionsandplaceeachinitsowndishCovertwoofthemwithclingfilmandplaceinthefridgeYouwillbeleftwith90gofbutterlardinthemixingbowlandonedishofbutterlardatyourside

SifttheflourandsaltintoabowlandaddthelemonjuiceAddthe90gfatleftinthemixingbowlthoroughlyscrapingthesidesofthebowlwithaspatulatogetallofitoutRubthefatintotheflourwithyourfingertipsuntilthemixtureresemblesroughbreadcrumbsIftherearestilllumpsoffatdonrsquotworryndashthiswillhelpcreateairpocketsinthepastryMakeawellinthecentreofthemixtureandplacethebowlontoweighingscalesKeepingbacktheicecubespourtheicedwaterintothecentreofthewellmakingsureyoudonrsquotaddmorethan200gMixthewaterintotheflourwitharound-bladedknifeuntilapliableslightlystickydoughhasformedTurnoutontoalightlyflouredworksurfaceShapethedoughroughlyintoacubeandusingarollingpinrollitoutawayfromyoutocreatearectangleapproximately30cmtimes15cm

Takethe70gfatthatdidnotgointhefridgebreakitroughlyapartintochunksanddotevenlyaroundthebottomtwothirdsoftherectangleFoldthetopthirdofpastryoverthemiddlethirdthenfoldupthebottomthirdof

thetopthirdofpastryoverthemiddlethirdthenfoldupthebottomthirdofpastryndashlikefoldingaletterSealtheleftandrightedgesandthensealthehorizontalfoldbypressingwithyourthumbandfingersUsingyourthumbmarkanindentinthecentreofthepastrylsquoenvelopersquoThisdotsignifiesthatitisthepastryrsquosfirstlsquoturnrsquoItrsquoswellworthdoingasrememberingwhereyoursquoreuptoafteralongafternooncanbechallengingWrapthepastryinclingfilmandplaceinthefridgeforatleast1hour

RemovethepastryfromthefridgeandgiveitaquarterturnanticlockwisesothatoneoftheshortersidesisnearesttoyouRollthepastryoutawayfromyoutoproduceanother30cmtimes15cmrectangleRepeattheprocesswithoneofthedishesofchilledlardandbutterfillingthebottomtwo-thirdsofthepastrywithdotsofthemixturethenfoldingsealingandmarking2indentsinthepastry(tosignifyitssecondlsquoturnrsquo)Wrapinclingfilmandreturntothefridgeforatleast1hour

RepeattheentireprocessusingthefinalramekinoffatrememberingtogivethepastryaquarterturnanticlockwiseMark3indentstosignifyitsthirdandfinalturnItisnotunusualforflakyorpuffpastrytohave6turnsThisistimeconsumingbutifyouwanttotryityouwillhaveanevenlighterflakierpastryIfoptingfortheextraturnsyouwillhaverunoutoffatattheendofyourthirdturnContinuerollingandfoldingasyouhavebeenbutwithouttheadditionoffatWestronglyrecommendthese3extraturnsastheextralayerswillresultinacrispierlessdensepastrythatisfarsuperior

Puffpastry

PuffpastryismadeinthesamewayastheFlakyPastryabovebutusingallunsaltedbutterinsteadofsaltedbutterandlard

CandiedPeel

1lemonpeeledwithallthewhitepithstillattachedtothepeel1bloodorangepeeledwithpithstillattached

1thumb-sizedpieceoffreshgingerpeeled500gcastersugar

PlacethecitruspeelandgingerinapancoverwithcoldwaterandbringtotheboiloveramediumheatDraindiscardingthewaterReturntothepancoverwithfreshwaterandbringslowlytotheboilagainthendrainRepeatthisprocessoncemore(ithelpstoextractthebitterness)thenplacethepeelandgingerinice-coldwaterfor10minutes

Meanwhileputthesugarinapanwith750mlcoldwaterandheatstirringoccasionallyuntilthesugarhasdissolvedRemovefromtheheatandsetaside

Cutthegingerandfruitsinto5mmcubesandaddthemtothesugarsyrupCookonthelowestpossibleheatfor6hoursathermometerwillbeusefulhereasyouneedtokeepthesyrupat70ndash80degCYoumayneedtohavethepanhalf-onhalf-offtheheatdependinghowhottheburnerisWhenthepeelisdoneitwillbesweetandsoftinathicksyrupStrainandleavetocoolthenstoreinanairtightcontainerItwillkeepforaboutamonth

coolthenstoreinanairtightcontainerItwillkeepforaboutamonth

EthicureanMixedSpice

10gallspiceberries2nutmegsgrated10gwholemace4gfennelseeds10gcloves4gcassia4gcardamomseeds2tspgroundcinnamon15ggranulatedsugar

Warmalltheingredientsexceptthecinnamonandsugarinaheavy-basedfryingpanuntilaverylightsmokeiscreatedandthearomasandoilsofthespicesarereleasedPlaceinaspicegrinderandblitztoafinepowderMixwiththecinnamonandsugarandthenstoreinanairtightcontainerItwillkeepforabout3months

SaltCaramel

200gcastersugar2tspflakyseasalt

Heattheovento120degCGasMarkfrac12Placeasiliconebakingmatonabakingsheetandputitintheoven(ifyoudonrsquothaveasiliconebakingmatputalayerofbakingparchmentonthetrayonceithasbeenheated)Haveasmallbowlofcoldwaterandasiliconepastrybrushattheready

Putthesugarintoameticulouslycleanfryingpanadd4tablespoonsofwaterandstiruntiltherearenodrypatchesofsugarPlaceonamedium-highheatandcookwithoutstirringThemixturewillstarttobubbleAsthetemperaturerisesthesugarwillbegintocarameliseincertainareasofthepanYoumayalsonoticeitbeginningtocrystallisearoundtheedgesofthe

panYoumayalsonoticeitbeginningtocrystallisearoundtheedgesofthepanIfleftuncheckedtheseareascancausethesyruptocrystalliseresultinginapanfullofgrainysugarcrystalsndashnotthedesiredresultTopreventthisbrushcoldwateroverthesecrystallisedpatchesontheedgesofthepanusingasiliconepastrybrushWhenthesugarbeginstocaramelisegentlyscrapethesedarkeningpatchesintothecentreofthepanusingaheatproofspatulaKeepgentlymovinganypatchesofcaramelisingsugarintoareasthatarenotcaramelisingThiswillensureanevencolourWhenthecaramelhasturnedagooddeepgoldencolour(ifyouuseasugarthermometeritwillregister178ndash180degCndashhoweveryoucankeepcheckingthetruecolourbydrippingafewdropsontoawhiteplate)pouritimmediatelyontoonesideofthesiliconematPreheatingthematmeansthatthecarameldoesnrsquotcooldownsoquicklywhenyoupouritonandthisallowsyoutotiltthebakingsheetinordertoachieveaverythinlayerofcaramelYouneedtoworkquicklyhoweverAssoonasthesugarbeginstocoolitwillstarttosetSprinkletheseasaltoverthecaramelwhileitisstillhot

Letthecaramelcooltoroomtemperaturethensnapitinto25ndash5cmshardsItshouldbebrittleWhenyoueatititshouldbecrunchyandnotsticktoyourteethKeepinanairtightcontainerinacooldryplaceforupto2weeks(caramelissusceptibletomoisturecontentandwillgoverystickyifexposedtoit)

Rhubarbsyrup

MAKESENOUGHTOFILLA700MLBOTTLE

500grhubarbwashedtrimmedandcutinto5cmpieces350gsugar

Placetherhubarbinasaucepanwith200mlcoldwaterBringtotheboilthenreducetoasimmerandcookuntilallofthejuicefromtherhubarbhasbeenextractedandtherhubarbisalmostcompletelybrokendownthiswilltakearound30minutes(pleasedonotwastethecookedrhubarbtryitwithporridgeorabowlofyoghurt)

StrainthecookedrhubarbthroughapieceofmuslinitcanbeleftforafewhoursPlacethestrainedliquidinacleansaucepanaddthesugarandbringtoasimmertodissolvethesugarforaround5minutesPourthehotliquidintoasterilisedbottleOnceopenedrefrigerateandconsumewithin2weeks

FRUITVINEGARS

Anyonewithaninterestinfoodhistoryandtheeffectcertainingredientshavehadonourcookingwouldagreethattheinventionofvinegarchangedtheculinarymapbeyond

recognitionTheoriginsofvinegardatebacktotheMiddleAgeswhenitsimportancecentredonitbeingatoolforfoodpreservation

PreservingfoodwascrucialforsurvivalparticularlyincountriespronetomoreextremeweatherVinegaralsohadthehighly

desirablequalityofbeingasubstituteforwinewhendilutedwithwaterwhichisperhapswhyRomansoldiersinsistedonitbeingpartoftheirrations(Brothwell1969pages160ndash2)AtthattimevinegarwasmanufacturedfromwinethathadgoneflatAncient

RomancookeryrecordssuchasApiciusafamousRomancollectioncompiledinthe4thor5thCenturyADmention

plentyofusesforvinegarAndsoitwasthattheimaginativelygluttonousRomansstartedusingvinegarasmuchmorethanapreservecreatingthenowcommonsaladdressingSuchwastheRomansrsquoloveofvinegarthattheymadesurethatnothingwaseatenwithoutasauceordressingTheobsessionwithvinegar

seemedtohavecarriedthroughtoElizabethantimeswhentherewereplentyofreportsoftheoverlyenthusiasticuseofvinegarinBritishcookingAfamousItaliannamedCastelvetromadea

pointofcomplainingaboutthestateofthesaladsinthiscountrywhichhefoundwereservedswimminginvinegarwithouteithersaltoroil(Wilson1973pages363ndash4)TheBritishindeedcameupwithSalamagundya17th-centurysaladinwhichvegetablesweredressedwithvinegaroilandsugar

(Wilson1973page360)

FriendsandSuppliersThissectionisdedicatedtopeoplewehavehadthepleasureofworkingwithoverthelastfewyearsmanyofwhomshareourbeliefsinsustainabilityandpreservingthethingsweenjoyforfuturegenerationsAshridgeCiderwwwashridgecidercoukAdrianBootswwwwalkthemendipscomAlbamClothingwwwalbamclothingcomAspallCiderVinegarwwwaspallcoukBarbourwwwbarbourcomBoxSteamBrewerywwwboxsteambrewerycoukBristolBeerFactorywwwbristolbeerfactorycoukBritishSaffronwwwbritishsaffroncoukCabritoGoatMeatwwwcabritogoatmeatcoukVincentCastellanorsquosCharcuteriewwwcastellanoscoukWilliamCatchesidewwwcatchesidecutlerycomChandosDeliwwwchandosdelicom

ChaseDistillerywwwchasedistillerycoukCheddarAleswwwcheddaralescoukTheCommunityFarmwwwthecommunityfarmcoukCorksofCothamwwwcorksofcomMarkCoxatBarleyWoodKitchenGardenwwwwalledgardencoukgarden1htmlCreedyCarverwwwcreedycarvercoukCrookandChurnDairy(JohnandKateHowell)ApplinsFarmBlandfordForumDorsetDT118RAJonathanCrumprsquosCheeseOrchardHouseStandishParkFarmOxlynchStonehouseGloucestershireGL103DGOtterFarm(MarkDiacono)wwwotterfarmcoukDiscoveryTortillaswwwdiscoveryfoodscoukDorsetBlueVinnywwwdorsetbluemoonfruitcomTheWatercressCompanywwwthewatercresscompanycoukEssentialTradingwwwessential-tradingcoukhomeaspxTheEthicalShellfishCompanywwwethicalshellfishcompanycoukTheExmouthMusselCompanywwwexmouthmusselscom

ExtractCoffeeRoasterswwwextractcoffeecoukFentimanswwwfentimanscomFinisterre(EthicalColdWaterSurfCompany)wwwfinisterreukcomFinisterreisacold-watersurfcompanythatthinksdifferentlyraisesquestionsaboutthesupplychainandthewayproductsaremanufacturedandbelievesthatgreatproductscanbebornofresponsiblepracticesTheirsuitskeepIaintoasty-warmontheoccasionalchancehegoesforasurfForagerwwwforagerorgukForestProducewwwforestproducecomFusselswwwfusselsfinefoodscoukTheGingerBeerPlantwwwgingerbeerplantnetGampGGoodfellowrsquoswwwgoodfshopnetGoodfellowampGoodfellowLtdaresuppliersofexclusivetablewarechefsrsquoclothingkitchenequipmentandspecialisttoolsformoleculargastronomyTheycandesignandproduceuniquetablewareproductsWethankthemfortheirsupportinprovidingsomeoftheplatesforourphotographyGransforsBrukswwwgransforscomHarkilaofScandanaviawwwharkilaukcoukSwedishclothingcompanyforgearthathaskeptJackandMatthewwarmanddryoncountlesshuntingtripsHillFarmDairy(forStawleygoatsrsquocheese)wwwhillfarmdairycouk

HobbsHouseBakerywwwhobbshousebakerycoukHomewoodCheeseswwwhomewoodcheesescoukHurstwoodFarmwwwcobnutoilcoukKeenrsquosCheddarLtdwwwkeenscheddarcoukKernowsashimiwwwkernowsashimicoukMrsKirkhamrsquoswwwmrskirkhamscomLaverstokeParkFarmwwwlaverstokeparkcoukLeCreusetwwwlecreusetcoukLongleyFarmwwwlongleyfarmcomJekkarsquosHerbFarmwwwjekkasherbfarmcomMadgettrsquosFarmwwwmadgettsfarmcoukMarkrsquosBreadwwwmarksbreadcoukMendipMomentswwwmendipmomentscoukMontezumarsquoswwwmontezumascoukMoorBeerwwwmoorbeercouk

NativeBreedsCurersandCharcutierswwwnativebreedscoukTheCornishShellfishCompanyLtdwwwcornishshellfishcoukCornish-assuredoysterstheyspecialiseinthesupplyofoystersspeciallypurifiedtoremovethethreatofnorovirusfoodpoisoningNealrsquosYardCreamerywwwnealsyardcreamerycoukNorfolkSaffronwwwnorfolksaffroncoukManorFarm(forOgleshieldcheese)wwwmontgomerycheesecoukOldTownwwwold-towncoukOliverHarveyBritishChefrsquosWhiteswwwoliverharveycoukOriginalBeanswwworiginalbeanscomOstlersCloudyCiderVinegarwwwostlerscidermillcoukPerryrsquosCiderwwwperryscidercoukPowellsofOlvestonwwwpowellsofolvestoncomPrestigeEventEquipmentHirewwwprestigehirebizRationalSelf-CookingCentrewwwrationalcombiovenscomSharphamParkwwwsharphamparkcom

SipsmithGinwwwsipsmithcomSomersetCheeseCompanywwwsomersetcheesecoukSomersetCiderBrandywwwciderbrandycoukSomersetFarmersrsquoMarketswwwsomersetfarmersmarketscoukSticheltonwwwsticheltoncoukTheStorywwwthestorygroupcoukThaliCafewwwthethalicafecoukToastwwwtoastcoukThanksToastandspecialthankstoLaraSmrtnikTrethowanrsquosDairywwwtrethowansdairycoukTruffleHunterwwwtrufflehuntercoukUltracomidawwwultracomidacoukVillageMaidwwwvillagemaidcheesecoukWestCountryWaterBuffalowwwwestcountrywaterbuffalocomWestCroftCiderwwwburnham-on-seacoukwest_croft_ciderWestcombeDairywwwwestcombedairycom

TheWildBeerCowwwwildbeercocomWildStoveswwwwildstovescoukWingsofStMaweswwwwingofstmawescoukWoottonOrganicDairywwwwootton-dairycomPaulAYoungwwwpaulayoungcouk

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McVicarJekkaJekkarsquosCompleteHerbBook(KyleCathie2009)

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Acknowledgements

FRIENDSANDFAMILY

TheEthicureanwouldliketothankfirstandforemostElenaWendyandPhilforbelievinginusevenwhenthiswasjustadistantdreamandfortheirhelpwithrunningTheEthicurean(veryoftenrequestedatshortnotice)AdditionallywewouldliketothankPhilandElenafortheiroutstandingmanagementoftheapplejuiceproductionWewouldalsoliketothankMarkandLindaCoxLillyTessaTricksforherenthusiasmhardworkandgreatresearchskillsCharlieTricksAndrewElderforbeinglovelycommittedandhard-workingSamLaceyandBigMikeCanningsIanandMoniqueHillmanandJosephSarahLavelleJasonIngramJaineBevanJaneMiddletonDavidEldridgeTimBatesIvortheBeeKeeperAdrianBootsCleaveNursery-AlanDownEmmaDibbenKatieChardandPaulFarrelforlendingustheirprintsBillatClayabilityHelenDowningFionaBeckettPaulWinch-FurnessBrettEllisandlastbutnotleastOchothedog(bestdog)

PaucirclawouldliketothankElenandashthisbookwouldnothaveseenthelightofdaywithoutyouYoursupportwithadminOchorsquoswalksapplepressingproofreadingandgenerationofideashasbeeninvaluabletothisprojectThanksforalwaysbelievinginmeandsupportingeverythingIdoIwouldnotbewhereIamifitwasnrsquotforyouPablondashsomeofmyhappiestmomentsandthebestchildhoodfoodmemoriesaresharedwithyouYouhavekeptmesanethroughoutthewritingofthisbookyouaremybestfriendandfavouritebrotherPoppyndashyoursmilingpresenceandrelentlessoptimismmakemefeelluckytobeinyourlifeMariondashfortakingmetoallthoserestaurantsforteachingmeaboutregionalityoffoodinMexicoforshowingmethevalueofgoodfoodandensuringatalltimesthatweatethebestmealsthatwepossiblycouldforshowingmethatfoodisworthfeelingpassionateaboutMikendashIhavenodoubtthatyouwouldhavedoneanythinginyourpowertosupportthisprojectandIknowyouwouldhavebeenproudAbueTomasitandashthereisnobettercookthanyouThemealsyoupreparedforus

TomasitandashthereisnobettercookthanyouThemealsyoupreparedforusaschildrenarecherishedmemoriesthatIholdveryclosetomyheartThankyoufortakingmetothemercadoasachilddespitemywingingManyvaluablelessonsaboutfoodwerelearntinthosetripsAbueNataliandashforcookingthosedeliciousfeastsonSundaysIwillbeeternallygratefultoyouforfillingmylifewithallthosespecialmemoriesoffamilymealsTodoslosZaratesndashSuapoyosiempremehainspiradoaconvertirenrealidadtodosmissuenosThePenningtonsespeciallyMatthewandIainwhosenaturalabilitytoproduceoutstandingfoodcontinuestodriveustoplacesweonlydreamtofbeforeThanksforyourdedicationhardworksenseofhumour(whichhaskeptourspiritsupduringdifficulttimes)andadmirablecreativityTheBevansndashfortheirunequivocalsupportandespeciallytoJackforhisrelentlessenergyandpassionforourbusinessIthinkofyouallaspartofmyfamilyNeilSiLoandAmyndashforbeingthebestfriendsthatanyonecouldeverwishforThankyouformakingmefeelhappyandsafewhenIamaroundyouIhaveenjoyedsomeofthebestmealsinmylifewithyouCorinneHenryRosieTomLiamEmilyAmyHKatieandJackiendashwecouldnothavedoneitwithoutyou

JackwouldliketothankThankyouWendyandPhilBevanforbeingthegreatestpillarsanymancouldaskforKevinandAbigailforallthelimitlessadventuresandconversationsthatultimatelyrevolvedaroundbeerandfoodElenaZarateforbeingthefifthmemberofTheEthicureanJanelsquoBaggagersquoBillyardforbeingthebeautifulinspirationtojointhetradeChloeBlackmanforbeingtalentedsupportiveanddownrightawesomeHuwRuddalforbeingagentlemanandascoundrelAlltheArleyVillainsthatbecameGwynnStreetthankyouofallyourhelpmusicfoodandtoastedseedsMarkJemmaandtheCalverfamilyforthosefirstformativefoodandboozeexperiencesAlexCueDanielSnowandtheirfamiliesforbeingwonderfulJamiePikeforyourfriendshipRichardTringandJustynBellforallthoseincredibleboozynerdycocktailconversationsToallmyfriendsthatliveinourwonderfulhomewhatanabsolutedreamTimHaywardandFireandKnivesforalwaysreplyingtomyemailshoweverobscureThankyouJackieRabaioittiyoutaughtthismanhowtotellastoryFinallycheersMatthewPenningtonforpoachingmewetbehindtheearsfromalifeof9ndash5crimeandPaucirclaandIainforbeingsuchmarvellousfriendsandcolleagues

IainwouldliketothankMichelleyourtirelesssupportthislastyearhasmeantmoretomethanIcouldeversayandIthankyouimmenselyThewritingofthisbookwouldnothavebeenpossiblewithoutyouPeterIwouldnotbewhereIamhadwenotmetWhatyoudoisphenomenalandIameternallygratefultohavethetwoofyouinmylifeTomysistersTaraandEllieBothofyouhavebeennothingbutsupportiveandlovingsincethedayIwasbornThewordlsquoprivilegedrsquodoesnrsquotevencomeclosewhentalkingaboutyouToallofthebossaiirsquosAndyArranBurgerFrithGuyImogenLaurenLoisMattyNikkiPeeeeteRobSwainandZolaSomeofthefondestmemoriesIhaveinmylifeareofbeingwithallofyouIamashappyasIcanbewhenwersquoretogetherandIloveyouallThanksforyoursupportandIdelightinthemomentwersquorenexttogetherTOClareyourfriendshiphasbeenoneofthemostmeaningfulthingsIhaveexperiencedSorrythatcommunicationcanbedistantbutknowthatyouarealwaysinmyhearthowevermanymilesseparateusThanksforoveradecadeofsupportandsmilesToRachelandallofthePerrysyourwelcomingofmeintoyourfamilywasoneofthemostsignificanteventsinmylifeYourhumblewayoflifehowcloseyouallareandhowdeliciousyourfoodwasissomethingIwillalwaysstrivetoachievethroughoutmylifelsquoThankyoursquocouldnevercomeclosetowhatIwanttosaybutthankyounonethelessItwasatrulyhappytimeformeMatthewforinvitingmetostartthisbusinesswithyouIameternallygratefulYoulikemyothersiblingsarealegendandIloveyouandtoPaucirclaandJackIloveyoubothTherearenothreepeopleIwouldratherworkthishardwithItrsquosbeenmorethanamammothundertakingbutitrsquosthebestthingwersquovedonetodateHerersquostoasuccessfulandhappybusinessDadyoursupportandabilitytomakeyourchildrensmileispraiseworthyIamgratefultohavehadyouasarolemodelandIhopetoseemoreofyouinthefutureToMumthankyouforbringingthebestfamilyintoexistenceIlovebothofyouToTobyDanandallthePumpHousecrewtoJoshHollyandallatthePonyampTrapthanksforwelcomingusnewcomersontotheBristolsceneWelookforwardtoworkingwithyouinthefutureTothegreatchefsbeforemethatwerewillingtosharetheirknowledgeyouneverceasetoinspiremeteachmeandhelpmegrowAndfinallytotheOceanThemostbeautifulthingonthisEarthandtheplacewhereIfeelmostathome

MatthewwouldliketothankIameternallygratefultothefollowingfriendswhoarethemostamazingpeopleintheworldTheZarateFamilyElenaMikePaucirclaPabloampPoppyIoweeverythingtoyoursupportandembracingmeasfamilyhomefromhomeThePenningtonFamilyJohnJaneyAngelaDavidTaraJontyEllieDanMacyLisaIainandMichelleTheBevansareonestunningfamilyWendyPhilandJackandKevinSimonWilkinsonNeilWilkinsonLoisWoodwardAmyMartinLiamKnappEmilyWallisAmyHowerskaandEmilyWrightTheArmisteadFamilyIainKeithSmithJackieChardAndrewGriffinandTerryRobertsforhelpingmeembarkonmyjourneyintoseriouslygreatfoodJuliaandPaulPilcherthefriendliestforagersandtheirsuperbmushroomhaulsMyKitchenFamilyIainRichBowmanJustynaSzumlewskaThomasParslowSophieLucyandAndyElderChefsJoshEggletonandTobyGrittenforwelcomingussoreadilyintotheBristolrestaurantsceneThankstochefswhohaveinspiredmeElenaArzakNikiSegnitHestonBlumenthalSimonRoganFergusHendersonMagnusNilssonandJonnyMillsBenjaminHoffforlsquoTheTaoofPoohampTeofPigletrsquoPaucirclaIainandJackamonumentalachievementofworkanddedicationthathastestedusallYouaremygreatestfriendsIloveyou

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  • Contents
  • List of Recipes
  • About the Book
  • Title Page
  • The Ethicurean
  • Winter
    • Beetroot Carpaccio with Honeyed Walnuts
    • Duck Terrine with Cranberries and Cobnuts
    • Tandoor Scallops Celeriac Pureacutee and Pickled Rock Samphire
    • Monkfish Cheeks with Saffron Cauliflower and Aniseed
    • Roast Partridge with Bread and Cheese
    • Lambrsquos Wool
    • Janetrsquos Jungle Juice Ice with Cheddar 99 Flake
    • Rabbit Confit with Lovage Breadcrumbs
    • Confit Meats
    • Confit Tomatoes with Ruffle Basil
    • Beef Brisket Slow-roasted in Coffee Sauce with Valor Mash
    • Pigeon Breasts with Beetroot Pearl Barley and Bordelaise Sauce
    • Steamed Lemon Sole with Fondant Pink Firs Golden Beetroot and Nasturtium Remoulade
    • Sea Robin with Fennel Butter Sauce and Herbed Pink Firs
    • Pineapple Turmeric and Ginger Glazed Ham with lsquoPiccalillirsquo
    • Glazed Star Anise Carrots
    • Eccles Cakes with Dorset Blue Vinny Sauce
    • Milk Stout and Chocolate Steamed Pudding
    • Pedro Ximeacutenez and Whisky with Vermouth Smoke
    • Fennel Seed and Ginger Hot Chocolate
      • Spring
        • Nettle Soup with Caerphilly
        • St Georgersquos Mushrooms with Asparagus Ribwort Plantain Mushroom Jelly and Apple Jelly
        • Sweet-cure Mackerel with Morels Spelt Soda Bread and Horseradish
        • Asparagus with Toasted Sesame and Hollandaise Sauce
        • Clear Ham Hock Broth with Poached Eggs
        • Caerphilly and Cider Welsh Rabbit
        • Smoked Chipotle Chillies
        • Smoked Roe Deer Loin with Wild Rocket Clamped Carrots Honeyed Walnuts and Wood Sorrel
        • Curd Cheese Cucumber Flat Bean Aniseed and Sesame
        • Crab Salad with New Potatoes Pickled Carrot and Smoked Paprika Mayonnaise
        • Spring Radishes with Anchovy Cregraveme Fraiche
        • Trout with Kelp and Shiitake Mushroom Stock Rice Flat Beans and Sea Kale
        • Goat Meatballs Mash Lovage Butter and Mustard Greens
        • Ox Tongue with Swede Parsley and Cider Vinegar
        • Ox Tongue with Cauliflower Gilliflower and Hazelnuts
        • Salt Marsh Lamb with Tidal Greens
        • Steamed Rabbit Pudding
        • Pork Juniper and Black IPA Pie
        • Pearl Barley with Old Demdike and St Georgersquos Mushroom
        • Rhubarb and Custard
        • Chocolate and Salt Caramel Brownies with Cherry and Elderflower Sauce
        • Elderflower syrup
        • Strawberry and Rose Lemonade Pudding with Saffron and Cider Brandy Custard
        • The Ethicurean Vermouth Botanicals
        • Vermouth
        • Rose Lemonade
        • The Ethicurean Cocktail
        • Negroni
          • Summer
            • Figs Wrapped in Pork Belly with Lavender and Buffalo Mozzarella
            • Caramelised Chicory Labneh and Macerated Strawberry Salad
            • Roasted Tomato and Liquorice Basil Soup
            • Roasted Courgette and Cobnut Soup with Labneh and Ginger Turmeric and Mint Dressing
            • Soused Mackerel Carrot Fennel and Saffron with Gooseberry and Mint Granita
            • Chilled Beetroot Soup Par-cel Walnut Ice Cream and Roasted Cobnut Oil
            • Ewersquos-curd-stuffed Courgette Flowers with Fennel Sherbet
            • Globe Artichokes with Hollandaise Sauce and Sumac
            • Pea Goat Bacon and Lovage Broth
            • Scallops in Puff Pastry with Vermouth and Fennel Cream
            • Pickled Pollack with Flame-roasted Peppers Cucumber Pul Biber Chilli and Water Mint
            • Dorset Blue Vinny and Flame-roasted Peppers with Charred Little Gem
            • John Dory with Morel Mushrooms Flat Beans Haricot Beans and Ham Hock Stock
            • Mussels in Cider with Tarragon
            • Steamed Megrim Sole with Rock Samphire and Sumac-braised Fennel
            • Pickled rock samphire
            • Water Buffalo Fillet with Clear Chicken Stock Tarragon and Salt-baked Baby Beets
            • Barbecued Horse Mackerel with Cobnut Salbitxada Sauce
            • Fennel and Sumac Gravad Trout
            • White Raspberry Loganberry and Ewersquos Yoghurt Terrine with Sweet Cicely Confit
            • Elderflower Sorbet with Fennel Sherbet and Wild Strawberries
            • Pineapple Weed Jelly
            • Elderflower and Lavender Marshmallows
            • Spiced Ginger Beer
            • Summer Elder
            • Raw Rhubarb Smash
            • Double Sloe Gin and Tonic
              • Autumn
                • Goat Bacon with Ox Tongue Nasturtiums and Clarified Ham Broth
                • Wild Mushrooms with Sourdough Toast and Thyme Stichelton Cregraveme Fraicircche
                • Wild Mushroom and Spelt Pressed Terrine with Spinach and Rainbow Chard
                • Swedish Knaumlckebroumld with Cottage Cheese Pickled Beetroot Caraway Beetroot Crisps and Tom Thumb Lettuce
                • Roast Crown Prince Soup with Tandoori Spice Walnut Oil and Crisp Sage Leaves
                • Salt-baked Celeriac Portobello Mushroom and Apple Soup
                • Deep-fried Aubergine with Rose Hip Syrup
                • Pear Native Nape Hazelnut Cardamom and Ewersquos Cheese Salad
                • Preserved Duck Leg Chorizo Butter Bean and Confit Tomato Pot Stew with Yin Yang Beans
                • Wood Pigeon Breasts with Persian Spiced Bulgar Wheat Cucumber Aniseed and Black Cabbage
                • Chicken Mole
                • Venison Cider and Quince Stew with Herbed Butter Dumplings
                • Fish Soup with Spiced Heritage Tomatoes Fennel Seed and English Truffle Oil Toast
                • Slow-braised Goatrsquos Leg with Cider Shallots Lentils and Glazed Carrots
                • Pheasant Kiev with Winter Tarragon and Strawberry Myrtle
                • Rare Roast Sirloin of Beef with Bordelaise Sauce Black Cabbage and Truffle Cauliflower
                • Almond Pear Cardamom and Chocolate Cake
                • Sea Buckthorn Sorbet with Apple and Vanilla Pureacutee Toffee Apple and Caramel Lemon Balm
                • Beetroot Apple and Cobnut Crumble with Roasted White Chocolate Spoom
                • Simple syrups for sorbets and spooms
                • Spoom
                • Roasted White Chocolate Spoom
                • Cherry Spoom
                • Italian Meringue
                • Lordrsquos Lovage
                • Apple Flip
                • The Orchard at Barley Wood
                • Salsify and Ogle Shield Gratin
                • Vincent Castellanorsquos Venison Chorizo
                  • Basics
                  • List of Suppliers
                  • Bibliography
                  • Acknowledgements
                  • Copyright
Page 3: The Ethicurean Cookbook: Recipes, Foods and Spirituous Liquors, from Our Bounteous Walled Gardens in the Several Seasons of the Year

TroutwithKelpandShiitakeMushroomStockRiceFlatBeansandSeaKale

GoatMeatballsMashLovageButterandMustardGreensOxTonguewithSwedeParsleyandCiderVinegarOxTonguewithCauliflowerGilliflowerandHazelnutsSaltMarshLambwithTidalGreensSteamedRabbitPuddingPorkJuniperandBlackIPAPiePearlBarleywithOldDemdikeandStGeorgersquosMushroomRhubarbandCustardChocolateandSaltCaramelBrownieswithCherryandElderflowerSauce

ElderflowersyrupStrawberryandRoseLemonadePuddingwithSaffronandCiderBrandyCustard

TheEthicureanVermouthBotanicalsVermouthRoseLemonadeTheEthicureanCocktailNegroni

Summer

FigsWrappedinPorkBellywithLavenderandBuffaloMozzarella

CaramelisedChicoryLabnehandMaceratedStrawberrySaladRoastedTomatoandLiquoriceBasilSoup

RoastedCourgetteandCobnutSoupwithLabnehandGingerTurmericandMintDressing

SousedMackerelCarrotFennelandSaffronwithGooseberryandMintGranita

ChilledBeetrootSoupPar-celWalnutIceCreamandRoastedCobnutOil

Ewersquos-curd-stuffedCourgetteFlowerswithFennelSherbetGlobeArtichokeswithHollandaiseSauceandSumacPeaGoatBaconandLovageBrothScallopsinPuffPastrywithVermouthandFennelCreamPickledPollackwithFlame-roastedPeppersCucumberPulBiberChilliandWaterMint

DorsetBlueVinnyandFlame-roastedPepperswithCharredLittleGem

JohnDorywithMorelMushroomsFlatBeansHaricotBeansandHamHockStock

MusselsinCiderwithTarragonSteamedMegrimSolewithRockSamphireandSumac-braisedFennel

PickledrocksamphireWaterBuffaloFilletwithClearChickenStockTarragonandSalt-bakedBabyBeets

BarbecuedHorseMackerelwithCobnutSalbitxadaSauceFennelandSumacGravadTroutWhiteRaspberryLoganberryandEwersquosYoghurtTerrinewithSweetCicelyConfit

ElderflowerSorbetwithFennelSherbetandWildStrawberries

PineappleWeedJellyElderflowerandLavenderMarshmallowsSpicedGingerBeerSummerElderRawRhubarbSmashDoubleSloeGinandTonic

Autumn

GoatBaconwithOxTongueNasturtiumsandClarifiedHamBroth

WildMushroomswithSourdoughToastandThymeSticheltonCregravemeFraicircche

WildMushroomandSpeltPressedTerrinewithSpinachandRainbowChard

SwedishKnaumlckebroumldwithCottageCheesePickledBeetrootCarawayBeetrootCrispsandTomThumbLettuce

RoastCrownPrinceSoupwithTandooriSpiceWalnutOilandCrispSageLeaves

Salt-bakedCeleriacPortobelloMushroomandAppleSoupDeep-friedAuberginewithRoseHipSyrupPearNativeNapeHazelnutCardamomandEwersquosCheeseSalad

PreservedDuckLegChorizoButterBeanandConfitTomatoPotStewwithYinYangBeans

WoodPigeonBreastswithPersianSpicedBulgarWheatCucumberAniseedandBlackCabbage

ChickenMoleVenisonCiderandQuinceStewwithHerbedButterDumplings

FishSoupwithSpicedHeritageTomatoesFennelSeedandEnglishTruffleOilToast

Slow-braisedGoatrsquosLegwithCiderShallotsLentilsandGlazedCarrots

PheasantKievwithWinterTarragonandStrawberryMyrtleRareRoastSirloinofBeefwithBordelaiseSauceBlackCabbageandTruffleCauliflower

AlmondPearCardamomandChocolateCakeSeaBuckthornSorbetwithAppleandVanillaPureacuteeToffeeAppleandCaramelLemonBalm

BeetrootAppleandCobnutCrumblewithRoastedWhiteChocolateSpoom

SimplesyrupsforsorbetsandspoomsSpoomRoastedWhiteChocolateSpoomCherrySpoomItalianMeringueLordrsquosLovageAppleFlipTheOrchardatBarleyWoodSalsifyandOgleShieldGratinVincentCastellanorsquosVenisonChorizo

Basics

Listofsuppliers

BibliographyAcknowledgementsCopyright

ListofRecipesAlmondPearCardamomandChocolateCakeAppleFlipAsparaguswithToastedSesameandHollandaiseSauceBarbecuedHorseMackerelwithCobnutSalbitxadaSauceBeefBrisketSlow-roastedinCoffeeSaucewithValorMashBeetrootCarpacciowithHoneyedWalnutsBeetrootAppleandCobnutCrumblewithRoastedWhiteChocolateSpoomCaerphillyandCiderWelshRabbitCaramelisedChicoryLabnehandMaceratedStrawberrySaladCherrySpoomChickenMoleChilledBeetrootSoupPar-celWalnutIceCreamandRoastedCobnutOil

ChocolateandSaltCaramelBrownieswithCherryandElderflowerSauce

ClearHamHockBrothwithPoachedEggsConfitMeatsConfitTomatoeswithRuffleBasilCrabSaladwithNewPotatoesPickledCarrotandSmokedPaprikaMayonnaise

CurdCheeseCucumberFlatBeanAniseedandSesameDeep-friedAuberginewithRoseHipSyrup

DorsetBlueVinnyandFlame-roastedPepperswithCharredLittleGem

DoubleSloeGinandTonicDuckTerrinewithCranberriesandCobnutsEcclesCakeswithDorsetBlueVinnySauceElderflowerandLavenderMarshmallowsElderflowerSorbetwithFennelSherbetandWildStrawberriesElderflowersyrupEwersquos-curd-stuffedCourgetteFlowerswithFennelSherbetFennelandSumacGravadTroutFennelSeedandGingerHotChocolateFigsWrappedinPorkBellywithLavenderandBuffaloMozzarellaFishSoupwithSpicedHeritageTomatoesFennelSeedandEnglishTruffleOilToastGlazedStarAniseCarrotsGlobeArtichokeswithHollandaiseSauceandSumacGoatBaconwithOxTongueNasturtiumsandClarifiedHamBroth

GoatMeatballsMashLovageButterandMustardGreensItalianMeringueJanetrsquosJungleJuiceIcewithCheddar99FlakeJohnDorywithMorelMushroomsFlatBeansHaricotBeansandHamHockStockLambrsquosWoolLordrsquosLovageMilkStoutandChocolateSteamedPudding

MonkfishCheekswithSaffronCauliflowerandAniseedMusselsinCiderwithTarragonNegroniNettleSoupwithCaerphillyOxTonguewithCauliflowerGilliflowerandHazelnutsOxTonguewithSwedeParsleyandCiderVinegarPeaGoatBaconandLovageBrothPearNativeNapeHazelnutCardamomandEwersquosCheeseSaladPearlBarleywithOldDemdikeandStGeorgersquosMushroomPedroXimeacutenezandWhiskywithVermouthSmokePheasantKievwithWinterTarragonandStrawberryMyrtlePickledPollackwithFlame-roastedPeppersCucumberPulBiberChilliandWaterMint

PickledrocksamphirePigeonBreastswithBeetrootPearlBarleyandBordelaiseSaucePineappleWeedJellyPineappleTurmericandGingerGlazedHamwithlsquoPiccalillirsquoPorkJuniperandBlackIPAPiePreservedDuckLegChorizoButterBeanandConfitTomatoPotStewwithYinYangBeansRabbitConfitwithLovageBreadcrumbsRareRoastSirloinofBeefwithBordelaiseSauceBlackCabbageandTruffleCauliflower

RawRhubarbSmashRhubarbandCustardRoastCrownPrinceSoupwithTandooriSpiceWalnutOiland

CrispSageLeavesRoastPartridgewithBreadandCheeseRoastedCourgetteandCobnutSoupwithLabnehandGingerTurmericandMintDressing

RoastedTomatoandLiquoriceBasilSoupRoastedWhiteChocolateSpoomRoseLemonadeSalsifyandOgleShieldGratinSaltMarshLambwithTidalGreensSalt-bakedCeleriacPortobelloMushroomandAppleSoupScallopsinPuffPastrywithVermouthandFennelCreamSeaBuckthornSorbetwithAppleandVanillaPureacuteeToffeeAppleandCaramelLemonBalm

SeaRobinwithFennelButterSauceandHerbedPinkFirsSimplesyrupsforsorbetsandspoomsSlow-braisedGoatrsquosLegwithCiderShallotsLentilsandGlazedCarrots

SmokedChipotleChilliesSmokedRoeDeerLoinwithWildRocketClampedCarrotsHoneyedWalnutsandWoodSorrel

SousedMackerelCarrotFennelandSaffronwithGooseberryandMintGranita

SpicedGingerBeerSpoomSpringRadisheswithAnchovyCregravemeFraiche

StGeorgersquosMushroomswithAsparagusRibwortPlantainMushroomJellyandAppleJelly

SteamedLemonSolewithFondantPinkFirsGoldenBeetrootandNasturtiumRemoulade

SteamedMegrimSolewithRockSamphireandSumac-braisedFennel

SteamedRabbitPuddingStrawberryandRoseLemonadePuddingwithSaffronandCiderBrandyCustard

SummerElderSwedishKnaumlckebroumldwithCottageCheesePickledBeetrootCarawayBeetrootCrispsandTomThumbLettuce

Sweet-cureMackerelwithMorelsSpeltSodaBreadandHorseradishTandoorScallopsCeleriacPureacuteeandPickledRockSamphireTheEthicureanCocktailTheEthicureanVermouthBotanicalsTheOrchardatBarleyWoodTroutwithKelpandShiitakeMushroomStockRiceFlatBeansandSeaKaleVenisonCiderandQuinceStewwithHerbedButterDumplingsVermouthVincentCastellanorsquosVenisonChorizoWaterBuffaloFilletwithClearChickenStockTarragonandSalt-bakedBabyBeets

WhiteRaspberryLoganberryandEwersquosYoghurtTerrinewithSweetCicelyConfit

WildMushroomandSpeltPressedTerrinewithSpinachandRainbowChard

WildMushroomswithSourdoughToastandThymeSticheltonCregravemeFraicircche

WoodPigeonBreastswithPersianSpicedBulgarWheatCucumberAniseedandBlackCabbage

AbouttheBookTheEthicureanphilosophyissimpleeatlocalcelebratenativefoodslivewell

TheEthicureanisquietlychangingthefaceofmodernBritishcookingndashallfromawalledgardenintheheartoftheMendipHillsTheEthicureanCookbookfollowsayearintheirmagnificentkitchenandgardenndashandcelebratesthegreatestfooddrinkandtraditionsofthisfairland

ThecombinationsareelectriccuredroedeerflirtswithwoodsorrelandforagednettlesoupisfortifiedbyayoungCaerphillyHoneyedwalnutsnestleamongstbeetrootcarpacciorichcurdcheeseisbalancedbydelicatecucumberAndthecomfortofpiesandpudndashporkandjuniperpieEcclescakeswithDorsetBlueVinnyndashisenhancedbytheapplejuiceciderandbeerpouredinequalmeasure

With120recipesandayearofseasonalinspirationinphotographsandwordsEthicureanismisanewBritishcookingmanifesto

TheEthicureansareJackAdair-BevanPaucirclaZarateMatthewPenningtonandIainPennington

AbovelefttorightJackMatthewOchoPaucirclaandIain

CookrsquosNotesAllvegetablesarepeeledunlessotherwisespecifiedAlleggsaremediumfree-rangeButterisunsaltedunlessotherwisespecified

ethicureanadjthepursuitoffine-tastingfoodwhilebeingmindfuloftheeffectofonersquosfoodproductionandconsumptionontheenvironment

TheEthicureansitsbelowanovergrownGeorgianestatesometimehauntofWordsworthandColeridgeItsgardensarealabyrinthofrosespergolasandchippedstatuesTherestaurantandkitchenarehousedintwooftheoriginalglasshouseswithinBarleyWoodWalledGardenbuiltforHenryHerbertWillsoftheImperialTobaccoCompanyin1901ThiswastheyearinwhichQueenVictoriatookherfinalbreathOurWalledGardenisfilledwithneatrowsofcabbagesandespaliersofgreengagesandapricotsHundred-year-oldvineshavebulliedtheirwaythroughasmallbrickholeinoneoftheglasshousesCamberedred-brickpathsframeapatchworkgardenofcannellinibeansmarchingTomThumbandaquiltedstatisThegardeniscutinhalfbyayew-linedcorridorinspringlavendergrowsatjusttherightheighttotearoffsmallhandfulsaswewalkupfromthelowerorchardInsummerthepurplemassgiveswaytocampanuladayliliesandhundredsofasterMarkthegardenerbringsustrugsofvegetableseachmorningandthestarchedwhiteflashofachefrsquostuniccanbeseenaroundtheherbbordersjustbeforelunch

BritishseasonalityethicalsourcingofingredientsandattentiontothelocalenvironmentarethefoundationsofourbusinessWearefourfriendsJackAdair-BevanPaucirclaZarateandMatthewandIainPenningtonBetweenuswehaveoverlappingareasofexpertisethatrangefromthepracticalandorganisationalknowledgeneededtorunabusinesstothescienceofcookingandthewildfoodthatgrowsoutsidethewallsofourrestaurantWeareself-taughtandwanttoofferanapproachtoBritishfoodthatisneitherexclusivenorisolatingandonethatisfundamentallyaboutsharingknowledgeandpassion

Sustainabilityhasbecomeabuzzwordinrecentyearsandallanybodycan

SustainabilityhasbecomeabuzzwordinrecentyearsandallanybodycaneverdoisworktowardsamoresustainablewayoflifendashweEthicureansaredoingourbestWetookovertherestaurantin2010overfivedayswecompletedarefitwiththehelpofourfamilyandfriendsknockingdownwallsredecoratingandpausingonlytotakeadecentlunchandsupperonthelongtablesoverlookingtheWringtonValeOnthesixthdayweopenedforbusinessandbeganafullappleseasonpickingpulpingandjuicingWestartedresearchingtheseventyvarietiesofapplethatwenowhadtolookafterinourtwoorchards

FoodandthenarrativesurroundingitisinaconstantstateofevolutionitispoliticalartisticandcompletelydeliciousTheMendipsinSomersetthehomeofTheEthicureanisaplaceonthevergeofsomethingincredibleArtisansfromacrossthecountryaremovingtheirproductionhereCommunityfarmsorchardsandcollaborationsarepoppingupacrossthecountyWearewatchingdaybydayasourfriendscustomersandsuppliersarere-establishingandstrengtheningtheirruralcommunitiesandtakingcontroloftheirfoodproductionWeareseeingandenjoyingtherediscoveryofoldtechniquesandadaptationsforthefuture

FromouropeningdaywechangedourmenuonadailybasisaccordingtowhatwasavailablewecontinuetocelebrateeverysingledayoftheBritishseasonInthisbookwehaverecordednotonlyrecipesbutourrelationshipswithourproducersourlandourlivesandourhistoryndashallofwhichareintricatelyconnectedwiththefoodweeat

Werarelyleavethisbeautifulwalledgardenitisanabsoluteparadise

RecipeList

BeetrootCarpacciowithHoneyedWalnutsDuckTerrinewithCranberriesandCobnuts

TandoorScallopsCeleriacPureacuteeandPickledRockSamphireMonkfishCheekswithSaffronCauliflowerandAniseed

RoastPartridgewithBreadandCheeseLambrsquosWool

JanetrsquosJungleJuiceIcewithCheddar99FlakeRabbitConfitwithLovageBreadcrumbs

ConfitMeatsConfitTomatoeswithRuffleBasil

BeefBrisketSlow-roastedinCoffeeSaucewithValorMashPigeonBreastswithBeetrootPearlBarleyandBordelaiseSauceSteamedLemonSolewithFondantPinkFirsGoldenBeetroot

andNasturtiumRemouladeSeaRobinwithFennelButterSauceandHerbedPinkFirs

PineappleTurmericandGingerGlazedHamwithlsquoPiccalillirsquoGlazedStarAniseCarrots

EcclesCakeswithDorsetBlueVinnySauceMilkStoutandChocolateSteamedPudding

PedroXimeacutenezandWhiskywithVermouthSmokeFennelSeedandGingerHotChocolate

THEREAREACOUPLEofspecialrequirementsfortheWalledGardeninwinterndashfirstalightertodefrostthepadlocksandsecondlyagoodtorchforeveningtripsaroundthegardenunlessthereisafullmoonFrostsintheWringtonValearespectacularTheairhoarthatdecoratesthetreescreatesalandscapethatismoreakintoSiberiathanSomersetInanearly-morningdriftingfogtheviewfromtheglasshouseisdivineDuringourfirstyearatBarleyWoodwehadheavysnowandseveralhoarfrostsandthepathwaythroughthecentreofthegardenlayunderagoodthreeinchesofsnowJackclippedonhisskisandarmedwithtwobamboocanespinchedfromMarkrsquosbeansmanagedtoskirightthroughitMorningtripstothecompostheapatthebottomorchardthereserveoftheluckiestinsummerbecomeatasktobeavoidedbyallofus

ByearlyDecemberwetrytofinishpressingthelastoftheseasonrsquosapplesasworkingintheicyciderbarnisharshElenaPaucirclarsquosmumandPhilJackrsquosdadruntheapplebusinessBothareusedtowarmerclimatesndashMexicoandtheGulfrespectivelyYoursquollfindtheminthebarnclothedinmultiplelayersdebatingwhichvarietiesofapplestoblendTheirfridgesathomeareburstingwithlabelledspecimensTydemanrsquosLateOrangesitsnexttoReverendJamesTheseasonrsquoslastpressingsrequirejugglingthefinalfewtrugsofsweetvarietieswiththelatercookerssuchastheinfamousBramleyandthecloud-texturedBlenheimOrange

Thecoldweatheractsasagentleprodtowardsmorefull-bodiedbutteryfoodanddrinkByDecembercalorificcautionisthrownasideaswemarchtowardstheinevitablefeastandbyChristmaswearetrottingfull-belliedtowardsabsolutegluttonyPartridgesaresynonymouswiththistimeofyearweallknowthesongTheseplumpbirdsvirtuallyflyoutofthekitchenroastedandglazedwithacoatofhawthornjellywithitswild-fruittartness

WinterisachancetodeployallofthosechutneysjamspicklesjelliesliqueursinfusedginsbeerscidersandwinesthathavebeensquirrelledawayduringseasonalglutsItrsquosatimeforexperimentssweetconcoctionssuchasmembrillo-infusedvodkaandvanillaandespressobeanrumOurWalledGardenapricotjamandblackcardamomvodkaatriumphofadrinkwasthesweetproductofabitterdayinJanuary

FromtheNewYearwhileeveryoneelsedetoxesexercisesanddietsinacloudofresolveandperspirationwearepreparingthebiggesteventinourcalendarourannualWassailForustheWassailisafestivalfixduringthecruellestpartofwinterWefeelwehaverecapturedalostpartofourcountryrsquosheritageandrichlyupdateditOnthiscoldeveningweneverfailtoenjoythemagicalritualsofeatingdrinkingandworkingtogether

BytheendofJanuarywearetheonespayingpenanceforouralcoholconsumptionandexcessWorkbeginsorrathercontinuesafteralittlebreakAllthefruittreesareprunedthedividinghedgesthatarematureandreadyforlayingareconfrontedwithbillhooksandaxestheformidablehedgeoutsideourciderbarnisduetobelaidnextyearWeareluckytohavetheoldesthedgingsocietyinthecountrytheWringtonandBurringtonwhichwasformedaftertheEnclosuresActcameintoforceintheearly1800sItstillmeetsregularlyjustdowntheroadTherearedistinctivestylesofhedge-layingthatvaryfromregiontoregionEachstyleisspecifictothelocalclimateandthetypesoftreesandshrubsthatwillgrowinlocalsoilTheareaaroundtheWalledGardenisahedge-layingstrongholdalthoughwesuspectfewpeoplewillhaveheardofourlocalcelebrityUncleFrankahedge-layinglegendfromButcombeAllthemaintenancehastotakeplacebeforethebirdsestablishtheirnestsA

maintenancehastotakeplacebeforethebirdsestablishtheirnestsAcarefullyselectedmixofshrubsandtreeswellplantedwillyieldenoughfruittofeedplentyofhungryhumansandbirdsThehedgeframedinthegiantdoorwaytoourciderbarnreadslikeaninventoryofourlarderatTheEthicureanhawthornsloeswilddamsonsrosehipscrabappleshazelandcobnutsBeforeourresidentrobinhastimetosingforamateandbuildanesttheyewhedgesareclippedofferinganearlyreminderofthegardenrsquoscyclicalorderedstyleandtheimminentarrivalofspring

BeetrootCarpacciowithHoneyedWalnuts

WinterisatestingtimeforeventhemosthardenedproponentofseasonalityAnanonymoussighcansometimesbeheardinthekitchenwhenMarkthegardenercomesinwithyetanotherbasketofbeetrootTheaudaciouspink-and-white-stripedChioggiathecommonredDetroitandtheunimaginativelynamedgoldenbeetrootarefrequentvisitorstoTheEthicureankitchenatthistimeofyearHoweverthechefsrelishtheopportunitytocreateanoriginaldishThis

oneisourplayontheclassicbeefcarpaccioReminiscentofastained-glasswindowitcelebratesthedistinctivetasteofeachofthebeetrootvarietiesthatgrowonourdoorstepFlavourandspiceintertwinewithvibrantsplashesofcolourbrighteningamonochromaticwintryday

SERVES43beetroottoppedandtailed300mlredwinevinegar120gcastersugar1clove3staranise12blackpeppercornsasmallpieceofcinnamonstickahandfulofwintersaladleaves(wesuggestamixtureofmizunawinterpurslanelandcressandrocket)flakyseasaltandblackpepper

FORTHEHONEYEDWALNUTS

frac12tspbutter25gwalnuts1tsprunnyhoney

PutthebeetrootinapanwiththevinegarandhalfthesugarPouroverenoughcoldwatertocoverthebeetrootcompletelythenaddthespicesandbringtotheboilCoverwithalidandcookgentlyforabout40minutesoruntilthereisonlyaslightresistancewhenyouinsertthetipofaknifeinthebeetrootMeanwhilepreparethewalnutsMeltthebutterinasmallpanaddthewalnutsandfryoveramedium-highheatuntillightlycolouredAddthehoneyandtossuntilthewalnutsareevenlycoatedDecantfromthepanintoacooldish

DrainthecookedbeetrootkeepinghalfofthecookingliquorandcoolthemundercoldrunningwaterPourthesavedcookingliquorintoacleanpanandaddtheremainingsugarandapinchofsaltBoiloverahighheatuntilithasreducedbythree-quartersitshouldhaveathicksyrupyconsistencyRemovefromtheheatandleavetocool

PeelthebeetrootandcutthemintoquartersUsingamandolineslicethemwaferthinIfyoudonothaveamandolineputthequarteredbeetrootflat-sidedownandslicelengthwaysasthinlyaspossiblewithaverysharpknife

Toservethecarpaccioarrangethebeetrooton4servingplatesthendrizzleoverthesyrupyliquorAddasprinklingofseasaltandfreshlycrackedblackpepperthenscatterthehoneyedwalnutsandthesaladleavesontop

DuckTerrinewithCranberriesandCobnuts

WeuseAylesbury-crossducksfromMadgettrsquosFarmtomakethisterrineItwasthroughfarmersrsquomarketsthatwebecameawareofthecommendableworkMadgettrsquoshasbeendoingforyearsSituatednearChepstowitwasoriginallyadairyandbeefcattlefarm(andwasevenmentionedintheDomesdayBook)butoverthepastdecadethepoultrybusinesshastakenoffLikeothergreatfamilybusinessestheycaredeeplyaboutwhattheydowhichofcourseisreflectedinthequalityoftheirproduceThisisaveryversatilerecipeandyoucouldeasilysubstitutechickenor

goosefortheduckCarefulweighingoftheingredientsiskeyasyouneedtocompressthemevenlyintothemouldsTheterrinesneedanightintherefrigeratorbeforeservingTheywill

keepwellforseveraldaysbecausetheyaresealedbythegoosefatYouprobablywonrsquotneedtobutteryourtoastbeforeliberallyapplyingtheterrinendashalthoughitisprettytastyifyoudo

MAKES4SMALLTERRINES

210ggoosefat1tspsalt1tspgroundwhitepepperfrac12tspgroundstaranise465gskinnedduckbreastroughlydiced60gdriedcobnuts(orhazelnuts)lightlycrushed60gdriedcranberriessoakedinciderfor30minutesthendrained135gblackcabbage(cavolonero)coarselychoppedandthenblanchedinboilingsaltedwateruntiljusttender(optional)seasaltandblackpepper

Putthegoosefatinaheavy-basedpanoveralowheatuntilmeltedthenaddthesaltpepperandstaranisePlacethedicedduckbreastinthefatandcoverthemixturewithacircleofbakingparchmentCookoveraverylowheatfor30ndash45minutesuntiltheduckiscookedbutstillslightlypinkinside(ameatthermometershouldregister74degCthoughwecookoursto55ndash60degC)Removefromtheheatandleavetocoolatroomtemperature

Takethebreastmeatoutofthecooledgoosefatandputitinabowl(Youcanpourthefatoffthecookingliquorfromtheduckstraintheliquorand

canpourthefatoffthecookingliquorfromtheduckstraintheliquoranduseittoaddflavourtootherdishes)AddthenutsdrainedcranberriesandthecabbageifusingandseasonwellLinefour150mlramekinswithclingfilmandputtheminadishtocatchanyspillagesDividetheduckmixturebetweenthemitshouldcomeslightlyabovetherimsPouroverenoughofthecookingfattofillthegapsallowingittosinkinbeforecheckingthelevelagainCovereachterrinewithclingfilmandthenspikeitwithaknifetipsotheextrafatcanrunawayastheterrineschillPlaceachoppingboardontopandweightdownwith4heavytinsLeaveinthefridgeovernight

Beforeservingdiptheramekinsinhotwaterforabout30secondstoloosentheterrinesandthenturnthemoutontoaboardLeavetocometoroomtemperaturesoalittleofthefatmeltsawaythentransferthemtoservingplatesServewithtoastedsourdoughandRowanJelly(seehere)ifliked

daggerItisreassuringtoknowthatthegreatMrsBeetonwouldhaveapprovedofourchoiceofbreedInherBookofHouseholdManagementshewriteslsquoTheWhiteAylesburyduckisanddeservedlyauniversalfavouriteItssnowyplumageandcomfortablecomportmentmakeitacredittothepoultry-yardwhileitsbroadanddeepbreastanditsamplebackconveytheassurancethatyoursatisfactionwillnotceaseatitsdeathhellipthismemberoftheduckfamilyisbredonanextensivescalehellipintheabodesofthecottagersRoundthewallsoftheliving-roomsandofthebedroomevenarefixedrowsofwoodenboxeslinedwithhayanditisthebusinessofthewifeandchildrentonurseandcomfortthefeatheredlodgerstofeedthelittleducklingsandtotaketheoldonesoutforanairingThisinspiringextractservesasreminderoftheimportanceoffoodprovenanceinVictoriantimeswhenamealwasafamilyprocessthatstretchedbeyondsittingaroundatable

TandoorScallopsCeleriacPureacuteeandPickledRockSamphire

ScallopsareprizedfortheirsweetnesswhichcomesfromthewhitemeatanabductormusclethatcontainsveryhighlevelsofmildlysweetaminoacidWheneatenfreshthetasteisreminiscentofseaweedYoushouldbeabletoorderhand-divedscallopsfromagoodfishmongerInthisdishtheirsweetnuttinessiscomplementedbytheuseofceleriacndashasavouryearthyelementgivenmoregrandeurbybeingpureeedwitharichchickenstockTheflavourisheightenedwithtandoorspicesandpungentIndonesianlongpepperwhichaddthefinalelementstothisfantasticandrelativelysimple

pepperwhichaddthefinalelementstothisfantasticandrelativelysimplestarterSamphireandthesaladleafredfrillworkwelltogetherontheplateforreasonsofbothaestheticsandtastendashthetwoingredientsalmostmirroreachotherandconjureupanimageofthemarinebedIfyouwouldliketoservethescalloproespoachthemfor2minutesinalittlevegetablestockpriortoserving

SERVES416diver-caughtscallopsorangeroesremoved1ndash2tbsprapeseedorvegetableoilahandfulofPickledRockSamphire(seehere)ahandfulofredfrill(orotherwintersaladleaves)apinchoftandoorispicemixapinchofIndonesianlongpepperseasalt

FORTHECELERIACPUREacuteE

350gceleriacpeeledandcutinto1cmcubes95mlbrownchickenstock(seehere)80mlcregravemefraicircchefrac14nutmeg

FirstpreparetheceleriacChooseapanlargeenoughtoholdasteamingbasketandhalffillitwithcoldwaterGratethenutmegintothewaterandbringtotheboilPuttheceleriacinthesteamingbasketandsetitoverthepanCoverandsteamuntiltheceleriacisverysoftTransfertoablenderorfoodprocessoraddthechickenstockandcregravemefraicirccheandblitzuntilsmoothscrapingdownthesidesasneeded(Foranextrasmoothconsistencystrainthepureacuteethroughafinesieveafterblending)Seasonwithsalttotasteandreheatgentlyinapan

SeasonthescallopslightlywithseasaltSetalargeheavy-basedfryingpanoverahighheatforaminuteortwoAddathinfilmofrapeseedorvegetableoiltothehotpanitshouldbegintosmokeverylightlyAddthescallopstothepanoneatatimestartingfromtheoutsideandworkinginaclockwisedirectionspirallingtowardsthecentreBythetimeyouhaveputinyourlastscallopitwillmostlikelybetimetoturnthefirstAninviting

inyourlastscallopitwillmostlikelybetimetoturnthefirstAninvitinggoldencrustshouldhaveformedontheundersideIfitisstillalittlepaleleaveforafurther30secondsTurnoverallthescallopsinorderfollowingtheclockwisespiralyoumadeWhenyoureachthecentrereturntothebeginningandtakeoutthescallopsinordercheckingthattheundersidehascolouredtooSetasidetorestonawarmplate

PlaceaspoonfulofceleriacpureacuteeoneachservingplatePlace4scallopsontopofthepureacuteethendecoratewiththepickledrocksamphireredfrillalightdustingoftandoorispiceandasmallpinchoflongpepper

SCALLOPS

AswewritethesustainableandenvironmentallybenignpracticeofdivingforscallopsisunderthreatfromEuropeanlegislationInanattempttocontrolthetoxinlevelsofscallopstheEUhassettheselevelsextremelylowThismeansthatthetestcanonlybepassedifthescallopisshuckedpriortosaleandthisishavingaseriousimpactonthelivelihoodofdiversifnottheentiredivedscallopindustryTrawlingforscallopsdiscardingtheshellsandthepartsdeemedunfitthenfreezingthemeatandroeishigh-volumestuffScallopdiverscannotkeepupItrsquosadoublewhammyandthesnappingandclosingshellofalivescalloponceahallmarkofcarefulfishingisfastdisappearing

TheresultisthatscallopsarenowmorelikelytobefishedbydredgetrawlingwhichistheequivalentofploughingaredtractorthroughaJapanesepeacegardenScallopdiverswitnesstheseabedatfirsthandTheyproactivelymovescallopsndashmostimportantlytheyoungspecimensndashfromthepathsoftrawlerstolsquochuckypatchesrsquoThesearesafeareaswheretheconditionsarebetterforthemtoflourishastheyareallowedtospawnenoughtimesbeforetheyareharvestedThismethodoffishingisfundamentalinallowingstockstobereplenishedforthefutureGuyGrieveandhisfamilychosethetranquilandimmaculately

GuyGrieveandhisfamilychosethetranquilandimmaculatelycleanwatersoftheIsleofMulltosetupasustainableshellfishcompanyItpledgestosupportfishermenwhousesustainablemethodsinthehopethattheycancontributetowardstherecoveryofourseasTheawardsrollinforthiscompanyandwearepleasedtobeinsupport

MONKFISH

MonkfisharegreatmastersofdisguiseTheirenormousslimyheadandbodyserveaseffectivecamouflageontheseabedLookingakintoarocktheyattractpreythroughtheuseofadanglinglurefromtheheadThisabilitytoblendintotheirsurroundingscoupledwiththeirdistinctlackofgoodlooksmeantthattheywerenotpopularforeatingenablingthemtothriveinBritishwatersformanyyearsEventuallytheirsuperb-tastingmeatwasdiscoveredbyhungryhumanswhichsadlyresultedinfisheriesadoptingbeam-trawlingmethodstomeetthehighdemandInevitablythisledtoadeclineinnumbersThespeciesisnowrecoveringbutwewouldstillrecommendthatyousourcethemfromfishmongerssupportingsustainablefishingmethods

MonkfishCheekswithSaffronCauliflowerandAniseed

ThismagnificentdishcontainssomeveryfragrantspicesthattogethercreateasymphonyofflavoursWearefortunatetobeabletobuymonkfishcheeksdirectfromthefishermenviaKernowsashimiafishingcompanyinCornwallThisistheonlywaywecanguaranteethatourfishareeither

CornwallThisistheonlywaywecanguaranteethatourfishareeitherline-caughtorfromstaticnetsKernowsashimirsquosfleetdoesnotdredge-netanyofitscatchaprocessthatisharmfultothemarineecosystemMonkfishheadsareoftendiscardedatseaastheyareconsideredanugly

fishThiswastesaparticularlytastymorselintheformofthecheeksbutKernowsashimiishappytoobligeandyourlocalfishmongershouldbeabletogetholdofthemtooThecheeksareagooddealcheaperthanthetailwhichhaslongsincemadeitsepithetoflsquopoormanrsquoslobsterrsquoredundantThisanglingfishisarealbrutebutthemeatisexceptionalanditsfirmtextureiswhatmakesthisdishsogoodSaffronmakesasplendidcompaniontomonkfishwithitsionichintsof

seaairandfragranceoffishingportsMarkthegardenerhasbeengrowingthesaffroncrocusforafewyearsbutitisalabourofloveInautumntheflowersproducethreestrandseachyetunfortunatelyforMarktheydonotallbloomatthesametimeHehastoscrutiniseeveryflowertocheckwhethertheyarereadytopicksometimestheyareleftfortoolongandthestrandsareblownaway

SERVES4ndash6500gmonkfishcheeksrinsedandpatteddry12saffronstrandsfrac14vanillapodfrac12cauliflowertrimmedandsplitintofloretsstalkroughlychopped1tspgroundcardamom25mldoublecreamalittlegroundnutorrapeseedoil50gwinterpurslane(orotherwintersaladleaves)apinchofgroundmace

apinchofgroundmace4ndash6unsmokedstreakybaconrasherscookedtogarnish(optional)seasalt

FORTHEANISEDRESSING

40mlcidervinegarfrac12tspdriedaniseed(orgroundfennelseed)4tbsprapeseedoil1tspsmoothDijonmustardapinchofsalt

FirstmakethedressingHeatthecidervinegarinapanforafewminutesoveramediumheatRemoveaddtheaniseedandallowtocooltoroomtemperatureStrainthevinegarintoabowladdtheoilmustardandsaltandwhisktocombineTastetochecktheseasoningandaddalittlemoremustardifitneedsit

PutthemonkfishcheeksinabowlwiththesaffronMixtodispersetheyellowsaffronandsetaside

SlitthevanillapodopenlengthwaysscrapeouttheseedsandsetasidePlacethepodinapanofwaterthatwilltakeasteamerbasketandbringtoasimmerPutthecauliflowerstalkinthebasketplaceoverthewaterthencoverandsteamuntilverysoftThismaytake25minutesMeanwhileaddthecardamomtoaseparatepanofwaterandsteamthecauliflowerfloretsoveritfor10ndash15minutesuntiltenderRemoveandsetaside

WhenyouaresatisfiedthatthecauliflowerstalkiswellcookedtransferittoablenderandaddthecreamandsomesalttotasteBlendstoppingtoscrapedownthesidesoftheblenderwithaspatulauntilverysmoothAnyremaininglumpscanberemovedbypassingthepureacuteethroughafinesieveStirthevanillaseedsthroughthepureacuteeItcomestolifeatthismomentbecomingscentedandspeckledKeepwarmwhileyouassembletherestofthedish

Tocookthemonkfishheatalargeheavy-basednon-stickfryingpanoveramediumheatItwilltakeagoodfewminutestowarmthroughevenlysoresisttheurgetocookonituntilitradiatesheatAddenoughoiltothenow

resisttheurgetocookonituntilitradiatesheatAddenoughoiltothenowgoldenfishtocoatitlightlyandseasonwithsaltAddthecheekstothepanandcookfor5minutesoneachsideuntillightlycolouredandjustcookedthroughEnsurethatthefishiscolouringbutnotburningandadjusttheheatifneedsbeRemovethepanfromtheheatThefishcanrestintheheatofthepanwhileyouassemblethedish

ToservetossthewinterpurslanewiththeanisedressingSpoonthecauliflowerpureacuteeonto4servingplatesalongwiththefloretsandstackthefishalongsidewithapileofsaladleavesDustwithalittlegroundmaceandiflikedtopwiththecrispbaconrashers

daggerBritainhasahistoryofsaffroncultivationinthefieldsofNorfolkandSuffolkCornwallalsohadasaffron-growingindustryuntilthenineteenthcenturyandyoucanstillbuyCornishsaffroncaketodayThereisacommercialsaffronfarminNorfolkbutnotsurprisinglytheyregularlyselloutbeforethenextseasonevenbegins

RoastPartridgewithBreadandCheese

TherearetwocommonspeciesofpartridgeinBritainthenativegreyandtheFrenchred-leggedThenativebirdisararitythesedaysanditsFrenchrelativeistheonemostofuswillencounterAtaquickglancethepartridgelooksremarkablylikeaplumpmonocledgentndashanillusionthatisquicklyshatteredwhenitfleesinarapidscuttlepreferringtorunratherthanflyEscapedbirdsfromnearbyshootsregularlyappeararoundourciderbarn

andratherironicallygiventhisrecipeunderourhawthornhedgeWethinkpartridgesaretheperfectsizeforthehungrycookItisworth

followingtherulelsquoroasttheyoungpottherestrsquondashasomewhatbrutalmantrabutveryusefulnonethelessOlderbirdsarewonderfulinstewsandcasserolesslowcookeduntilthemeatistenderAyoungpartridgestillhasaslightlypliablebeakandclawsanditsbreastbonewillbesmallerthanthatofanolderbirdWenormallyhangpartridgeforfivedaysorsoinacooldryplaceThemixofflavoursandtexturesinthisrecipemightappear

overcomplicatedbuttheresultistremendousItscreationwasgreetedwithnothinglessthancomicair-punchinginthekitchenTheplumpbirdsitsonbreadsaucefragrantwithitsgentlehintofcloveThefondantpotatoesandcavoloneroprovidebutterandwelcomeacidityrespectivelyThehawthornjellyiscleansweetandtartflecksofOgleshieldcheesemarrywellwiththeflavourofclovesandthesweetnessofthehawthornOgleshieldcheeseismadeinSomersetbyJamieMontgomeryusingunpasteurisedmilkfromasmallherdofJerseysHewasheshistrucklesleavingacheesethatisverylikeracletteonlybetterThisdishisbestenjoyedwithaglassofourhouseVermouth(seehere)

ThebotanicalsinthedrinkgreetthecloveinthebreadsaucelikeanoldfriendwhilethecaramelinthehawthornjellymatchestheinitialsweetnessperfectlyTheadditionoforangetothisrecipecameaftertastingthevermouthwithwhatwethoughtwasthefinalversionHavingabloodorangehandyMatthewlayeredhawthornjellybreadsaucepartridgecheeseandapinchoforangezestinaspoonforeachofusandwealltookitinturnstoswigatthevermouthTheflavourcombinationsparkedimmediately(weshouldconfessthatthenegronicocktailisafavouritehereatBarleyWood)

SERVES44red-leggedpartridgesadrizzleofrapeseedoil4bayleaves4slicesofsourdoughbreadHawthornJelly(seehere)forbrushingandtoserve100gOgleshieldCheeseorotherraclette-stylecheeseofthehighestorderfinelyshaved

zestof1bloodorange(orordinaryorange)FondantPinkFirPotatoes(seehere)toserveseasaltandblackpepper

FORTHEBRININGSOLUTION

15litreswater90gseasalt2tbspjuniperberries4cloves2tspcorianderseeds1tspblackpeppercorns

FORTHEBREADSAUCE

300mlmilk2tbspdoublecream60gyellowonionroughlychopped2goodpinchesofgroundcloves1bayleaffrac12tspEnglishmustardfrac12tspsalt

75gstalebreadcutinto25cmcubes

FORTHECAVOLONERO

200gblackcabbage(cavolonero)orredkaleroughlychoppedadrizzleofrapeseedoil1tbspcidervinegar

PutalltheingredientsforthebrineinapanandbringtotheboilstirringtodissolvethesaltLeavetocoolandthenchillPlacethepartridgesinthechilledbriningsolutionmakingsuretheyarecompletelysubmergedandleavetheminthefridgefor1frac14hours

DrainthebirdsanddiscardthebrinePatthemdryonkitchenpaperandsetaside(Whileweareonthesubjectofchillingthevermouthoughttobeinthefridgebynow)TomakethebreadsauceputalltheingredientsexceptthebreadinasaucepanandbringtoasimmerCookgentlyfor10ndash15minutesuntiltheonioniscompletelysoftRemovethebayleafandclovestransferthemixturetoablenderandblitzuntiltheonionisincorporatedintothemilkAddthebreadandallowthebreadtosoakforacoupleofminutesbeforeblitzinguntilsmoothTasteandaddmoreseasoningifnecessaryForaverysmoothbreadsaucepassitthroughafinesievegentlypressingwiththebackofasmallladleKeepwarmuntilreadytoserve

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6LightlycoatthepartridgesinoilthenseasonwithsaltandpepperPlaceabayleafinthecavityofeachbirdandputthemonabakingtrayrestingeachoneonasliceofthebreadRoastintheovenfor12ndash15minutesuntillightlycolouredndashtheyshouldstillbepinkinsideBrushalightglazeofhawthornjellyoverthebirdsandreturnthemtotheovenfor3minutesLeavethebirdstorestinawarmplacefor10minutesbeforeserving

ForthecavoloneroheatafryingpanandaddafilmofoilAddthecabbageandseasonwithseasaltCookoveramedium-highheattossingregularlytopreventscorchinguntiltheleavesstarttowiltAddthecidervinegarandcookbrieflyuntilevaporatedRemovethecabbagefromthepanandsetaside

ToassemblethedishspoonsomebreadsauceontoeachservingplateFlake

ToassemblethedishspoonsomebreadsauceontoeachservingplateFlakeovershavingsoftheOgleshieldtheywillmeltastheylandonthesaucePlacethebirdsontopthenaddthecavoloneroalongwithdollopsofhawthornjellyScatterovertheorangezestandservewiththefondantpotatoesAdmireyourdinnerfornolongerthanittakestopourthevermouthtableside

WASSAIL

OurannualWassailtakesplaceinearlyJanuaryTheCeltsviewedthistimeofyearasthegatewayfromdarknesstolightwhenallofnatureawakesAsrecentlyastheearlytwentiethcenturywholevillagesndasheldersandinfantsalikendashwouldcongregateintheorchardsandsingshoutandbangoutroughmusiconpotsandpanstowakethetreespiritsfromtheirwinterslumberandwardofftheevilspiritsthatmightharmthetreesrsquofertilityItwasachancetothrowasidetheacceptedhierarchiesandasenseofchaosprevailedCentraltothiseventwastheWassailcupacommunaldrinkofmulledciderandspicethatwaspassedfromhandtohandtotoasttheappletreeOnedrinkthatwerituallypassaroundwhenwewassailisLambrsquosWool(seehere)

LambrsquosWool

WassailisacuriouseveningatBarleyWoodamixoffoodmusicfireandgnarledappletreesOnedrinkthatwealwaysserveatWassailisaconcoctioncalledlambrsquoswoolndasharichsmoothcombinationofaleapplesandspicesthatpre-datesandoutstripsmulledciderandisperfectforcoldoutdooreveningsThisdrinklikemanyrecipesthathavebeenpasseddownandaroundhas

amistyparentagebutthenameseemstooriginatefromtheCelticlamhrsquossuilmeaninghandandeyeWecanonlyimaginethatthisalludestotheco-ordinationyouwillneedtomakethisdrinkitsfrothytoplooksjustlikelambrsquoswool

SERVES46largeBlenheimOrangeapples(orBramleys)coredandleftwhole15litresBoxSteamBreweryDarkandHandsomeorotherdarkbeer250gdemerarasugarfrac12nutmeggrated1thumb-sizedpieceoffreshgingerpeeledandfinelysliced1cinnamonstick1staranise

Heattheovento160degCGasMark3Placetheapplesonabakingsheetandbakefor1houroruntilsoftRemoveandleavetocool

PutthebeeranddemerarasugarinadeeppanandbringtoasimmerstirringtodissolvethesugarAddthespicesandsimmerfor10minutesSqueezetheapplefleshfromtheskinsandpassitthroughafinesieveRemovethespicesfromthebeerthenwhiskintheapplepulpoverahighheatBringtotheboilstirringallthetimeThehardwhiskingwillcreatethewoollytoponthelambrsquoswool

ServeinglassessilvertankardsorthecommunalWassailcupndashifyouhaveone

ForustheWassailisachancetocelebratethediversityofourorchardanacknowledgementofthemagicofapplesarebellionagainstthecolddarkdepthsofwinterItisacrucialpartofourrelationshipwiththelandandwefeelitisimportanttoinvolveandengageeveryonecitydwellersandcountryfolkalikewiththeseasonsForthatreasonwehaveendedupwithabeautifulandcompletelymadfestivalthatcentresonfoodfriendshipandhappinessRestoringthisancienttraditiontoBarleyWoodhasbeenagreatsuccesswithhundredsoflocalsandBristoliansjoininguseachyearItwasourfriendsandartisancheesemakersTimandAngelaofHomewoodCheeseswhoguidedusthroughourfirstWassailWassailnightiswithoutfailoneofthecoldestnightsoftheyearatthe

WalledGardenThefrostformssilentlyovertheorchardsandvegetablepatchesAtfirstwedonrsquotnoticeitTorchbearersleadtheWassailprocessiontakingustotheoldesttreeintheorchardItisthenthatwelookaroundandrealisewearesurroundedbyshimmeringiceThentheceremonybegins

realisewearesurroundedbyshimmeringiceThentheceremonybegins

JanetrsquosJungleJuiceIcewithCheddar99Flake

Weareveryfortunatetobesituatedrightinthemiddleofoneofthemostprominentcider-producingareasinSomersetWehaveagreatnumberofso-calledciderapplesinourorchardandhavehadafairshotatmakingourownciderThebestresultshavecomefromusingoneofourfavouritevarietiesMorganSweetDespiteafewgoodattemptsthoughwecanhonestlysaythatweareyet

tomatchtheciderproducedbyWestCroftinBrentKnollSomersetItisresponsibleforthedelectablebeverageaptlynamedJanetrsquosJungleJuiceoraswelazilycallitJJJThiscloudyciderhasprovedextremelypopularatour

welazilycallitJJJThiscloudyciderhasprovedextremelypopularatourannualWassailItismadefromtraditionalEnglishciderapplescollectedfromWestCroftrsquosownorchardwheremanyofthetreespre-datetheFirstWorldWarTheyarealltraditionalSomersetciderapplesKingstonBlackMorganSweetSheeprsquosNoseBrownSnoutChiselJerseyYarlingtonMillDabinettandMichelinWestCroftdoesnotaddsugartomakeJJJstrongerandthenwateritdownasmanycidermakersdoInsteaditismadefrom100percentcider-applejuiceWerarelyhaveanyleftbytheendofWassaileveningwhichiswhywealwayskeepbackasupplylsquoforstaffrsquoIthelpsfocusthemindwhenalltheguestshaveleftandwearefacedwithamajorclear-upintheearlyhoursofthemorningWecameupwiththisfrozendessertintheweekfollowingourfirst

WassailItseekstoencapsulatesomeofthemainelementsofWassaileveningallowingustocontinuethefestivitiesforthatlittlebitlongeralbeitinamorerefinedandsubduedmanner

SERVES6ndash81litreJanetrsquosJungleJuice(orgoodroughdryscrumpycider)60gcastersugar65mlciderbrandy150gKeenrsquosCheddarcuttorectangularlsquo99rsquoflakeshapesmintleavespreferablyappleminttogarnish

PutashallowmetaltrayinthefreezertochillCombinethecidersugarandciderbrandyinabowlandstiruntilthesugardissolvesPourthemixtureintothechilledtrayandplaceinthefreezerLeaveuntilitisbeginningtofreezearoundtheedgesandthenstirthoroughlyEvery30minutesorsostirwithaforkcrushinganylumpsuntiltheiceisfirmbutnotfrozensolidndashthiswilltakeabout3hoursTransfertoacontainerwithalidandstoreinthefreezer

ServetheiceinteacupsorglasseswiththeCheddarlsquoflakesrsquoaddedgarnishedwithmintleaves

RabbitConfitwithLovageBreadcrumbs

Makingaconfitorcookingslowlyinfatisatraditionalwayofpreservingmeat(seehere)AttheWalledGardenwedoitprimarilyinautumntopreservethelegsofthegamethatcomesinThiscarriesusthroughuntilwinterwhenproduceismorescarceShortlyafterwearrivedattheWalledGardenwediscoveredtoour

dismaythattherewasnolovagegrowingthereSoMarkplantedlovageseedsalongthewestwallinthealreadydiverseherbgardenandwewaitedbuttheplantsfailedtoappearWesoonfoundoutthatlikeallgoodthingslovageneedstimetodevelopForayearMatthewharvesteditfromtheplantoverrunninghisowngardenathomeandbroughtitintoservicetherestaurantThisplanthasbeenuprootedduringtwohousemovesndashaprocessthatleftMatthewrsquoshandsreekingoflovageforaweekafterwardsLovageisveryversatileandeasytogrowonceestablishedsodogiveita

goTheseedsarefullofcharacterandflavourandcanbedriedandpreservedwhiletheleavesaddanewdimensiontosaladsandstocksThisrecipeisanidealwaytousethevaluableseedswhichhavecelerytonesthatmatchthesweetrabbitfleshndashifyoudonrsquothaveanylovageseedsyoucouldtryceleryseedsinsteadMakingtherabbitintoaconfitkeepsthesometimes-dryfleshchin-drippinglyjuicyForperfectlycrispbreadcrumbsyouneedtothinkintermsofevendryingratherthantoastingFollowthemethodbelowforsuccesseverytime

SERVES42ConfitRabbits(seehere)150gstalebreadcutinto25cmcubes15glovageseedsroughlycrushedinapestleandmortar2eggyolkslightlybeatentoastedsourdoughbreadtoservebakedonions(seemethod)toservemixedsaladleavestoserveDarkPlumChutney(seehere)toserveHeattheovento180degCGasMark4Ifyouhavemadetheconfitrabbitinadvancewarmthejarinapanof

lightlysimmeringwatersothefatbecomesliquidthenremovethelegsandlaythemonabakingtray

BlitzthebreadandlovageseedstogetherinafoodprocessortomakefinebreadcrumbsSpreadthecrumbsevenlyonabakingtrayandplaceintheovenCookfor6ndash10minutesremovingthetrayevery2minutesandturningthecrumbsItwillquicklybecomeapparentwhereyourovenhashotspotsandcoolerareasContinueuntilthecrumbsareevenlydriedandlightlycoloured

BrushtherabbitwiththebeateneggyolkandcoatwiththepungentbreadcrumbsPlaceintheovenfor8minutesthenremoveandleavetorestfor2minutes

Servetherabbitwithlightlytoastedsourdoughbreadandifyoulikesomebakedonions(placewholeskin-ononionsintheovenforanhouruntiltender)saladleavesandDarkPlumChutney

CONFIT

ThistechniqueissoinvaluablesosimplesoversatileandonceyoumasterittherewillalwaysbesomethingrobustandepicureaninthefridgetoheatupatthelastminuteinanemergencyConfitisaFrenchtechniquethatwasdevelopedbeforerefrigerationandtranslatesaslsquopreservedrsquoAlongsidecuringsmokinganddryingitisinvaluabletoanyonewhowantstoeatwiththeseasonsGamecanbepreservedthroughthewintermonthswellintospringToughercutssuchasducklegsbenefitfromthelongcookingprocesswhilethefatinwhichtheyarecookedcanbeusedafterwardsAlayerofporkfatsealsthetopcompletelyandconfitcanbestoredinacoolcellarwithnoriskofspoilageThefatcanalsobereusedagainandagainreheatedwithalittlemoresaltaddedContainerssuchastall-sidedpreservingjarscanningjarsandKilnersarebesttoreheatjustwarmthejarinapanoflightlysimmeringwatertoloosenthefatremovetheducklegsandbakeintheovenfor8ndash10minutesIfyoursquoreseriousaboutyourconfitasmallinvestmentofthirtyquidcan

buyahomevacuumsealerWrappedinpolythenebagsmeatneedsonlyatablespoonoffatarounditandtheairissuckedoutofthepackagingThisrecreatesthesameairlessenvironmentasthatofthefatstoragemethodabovewhilerequiringlessspaceinthefridgeandlessoftherawingredientSaltandspicesareusedfirsttodrawmoisturefromthemeatFollowthe

spiceguidebelowforsuggestedseasoningsbutdotryyourownblendsTheweightofsaltistheoneconstanttoadheretosetat4gperlegscaleaccordingtothisBlendorcrushthesaltsandspicestogetherleavingthewoodybayleaveswholeCoveryourchosencutsinthissaltmixtureforaminimumof12andmaximumof36hoursWashthemeatundercoldwatertoremovetheresidualsaltandherbsPlaceaboutthreekilosofgoosefatinatall-sidedovenproofpanHeatthefattoloosenitandlaythelegsinitAddmorefatifneededasthelegsneedtobefullysubmergedSettheovento90degC(orthelowestpossibleovensetting)andcookfor5ndash6hoursTheoilshouldnrsquotbubbleatthistemperaturesoturndownthetemperaturebyfivedegreesifthatrsquoshappening

Oppositeareourrecommendedquantitiesfordifferenttypesofmeatusing

OppositeareourrecommendedquantitiesfordifferenttypesofmeatusingthecookinginstructionsgivenaboveWehavealsogivenarecipeforconfittomatoesasthiscookingmethodconcentratestheflavoursinspectacularfashion

ConfitMeats

FORCONFITDUCK

3kggoosefat12ducklegs48gfineseasalt12gstaranise6gblackpeppercorns3gclovepowder6gfennelseeds6bayleaves

FORCONFITCHICKEN

3kggoosefat12chickenlegs48gfineseasalt12gjuniperberries6gblackpepper3gclovepowder6bayleaves

FORCONFITRABBIT

frontandhindlegsfrom4rabbits3kggoosefat48gsalt12glovageseeds6gblackpeppercorns

3gfennelseeds8driedlavenderflowers6bayleaves

ConfitTomatoeswithRuffleBasil

TomatoesareblimminrsquomarvellouswhencookedlikethisAlthoughnotsubmergedinfattheyarecookedoveralayerofrapeseedoilwithalittlemoredrizzledoverthemessentiallypreservingthemwithfat

6tomatoesrapeseedoilbasilorthymeseasalt

Preheattheovento120degCGasMarkfrac12

CutacrossinthebottomofthetomatoesanddropthemintosimmeringwaterforacoupleofminutesRemovewithaslottedspoonandpeelofftheskinsQuarterthetomatoesscoopoutthefleshandseeds(youcanretaintheseformakingtomatoessenceseebelow)andyouareleftwithtomatofleshshards

LineabakingsheetwithfoilBrushwithrapeseedoilandplacethetomatoesontopDustwithsaltandyourchosenherbPlaceintheovenfor90minutesCheckthemattheendofthistimeandturnthemovertheyneedtobemostlydrybutstillpliableReturntotheovenforafurther10minutesifneedsbe

TomaketomatoessenceplacetheseedsinafinesieveandsquashthroughwithaspoonPlacetheliquidoveralow-mediumheattoboilslowlyitwillreduceandreachtheconsistencyofpassataAddapinchofsaltandsugartothisintenselyflavouredsavourysauceUseasagarnishforanyfoodthatpairswithtomato

BeefBrisketSlow-roastedinCoffeeSaucewithValorMash

UsingthehumblercutsofmeatisanEthicureanprerequisiteBrisketisarelativelyinexpensivecutallowingustomaximisethebeastrsquosworthandminimiseourcostswhileeatingexceptionallywellAskyourbutchertoboneandrollitwithallitslovelycollagenandfatintactCollagenwillonlybreakdownataround70degCsobrisketneedsalonggentlecookAmeatthermometerwillhelpnoendinperfectingthisroastMoistureisalsovitalandthiscreatesampleopportunityforseasoningwithalesandsaucesTheroastedsmokyrichnessofcoffeemakesitoneofbeefrsquosclosestyet

largelyoverlookedalliesOurcoffeesupplierisExtractrunbythreeenthusiastswhoroastalloftheircoffeeinavintage1955cast-ironProbatroasterSamDavidandMarkrebuiltandconditionedthisfinecontraptionthemselvesanditlooksasifitcouldhavebeenbuiltbyWallaceandGromitWeregularlytakeourstafftoExtracttoseetheentireprocessfromrawbeantocupandtoloseafewhoursinconversationwithexperts

SERVES415kgbeefbrisketrolledandtiedalittleoilasmallbunchofthymeseasalt

FORTHECOFFEESAUCE

140gtomatopureacutee500mlwater100mlespressocoffee2tbspcidervinegarfrac12tspsmokedpaprika1tbsppaprika1tspgroundcumin1chipotlechillideseededandcrushed

FORTHEVALORPOTATOMASH

15kgValorpotatoes(DesireeRemarkaandKingEdwardalsoworkwell)peeledandcutintoeven-sizedchunks125mlmilk

125gbutter

Heattheovento220degCGasMark7RubthebrisketwithoilandsprinklethethymeleavesoverPlaceitinashallowroastingtrayandroastfor30minutesuntilcolouredslightlyRemovefromtheovenandlowerthetemperatureto140degCGasMark1

MeanwhilemixallthesauceingredientstogetherTransferthebriskettoadeeproastingtinandpouroverthesauceCoverthetintightlywithfoilusing2layersifnecessarytocreateatightsealReturntotheovenandcookforabout4hoursuntilverytenderifyouhaveameatthermometeritshouldregister70degC

ForthemashputthepotatoesinapanofcoldwaterwithatablespoonofsaltandbringthemveryslowlytoasimmerCookuntilverysoftbutnotfallingapartDrainthroughacolanderplacethecolanderoverthepanandreturnthepantotheswitched-offhobndashtheresidualheatfromthecookerwillallowthepotatoestosteamdryTheycanbeleftfor10minutesorsowhileyouheatthemilkandbutter

Placethemilkandbutterinapanwithfrac12teaspoonofsaltandheatgentlyuntilthebutterhasmeltedPassthepotatoesthroughapotatoricerintothewarmedbutterandmilk(apotatoricerisaninvaluabletoolforcreatinglighteven-texturedmashonceyoursquovetriedoneyoursquollwonderwhyyouevermademashanyotherway)Stirtocombinethentastetodecidewhetheryouwouldpreferalittlemoresalt

Whenthebeefisreadyremovefromtheovenandleavetorestforabout15minutesbeforecarvingServewiththemash

PigeonBreastswithBeetrootPearlBarleyandBordelaiseSauce

TheironyofservingpigeonandpearlbarleytogetherisnotlostonmanyofourcustomersparticularlythefarmerswhoeatwithusTheyhaveseenmanyagreedywoodpigeonfeastingontheirbarleycropBordelaisesauceisaslowlyreducedmixofstockandredwineWeliketouseDetroitbeetrootwiththepearlbarleyasitcontainsthemostmoleculesofgeosminthesmellthatwerecogniseasmoistsoil

SERVES44woodpigeonbreastsremovedandskinned(savethecarcassestouseforstockifyoulike)

alittleoil4largehandfulsofkalelargestalksremovedaknobofbutterseasaltandblackpeppersmokedsalttoserve(optional)

FORTHEBEETROOTPEARLBARLEY

300gpearlbarley1mediumbeetrootpeeledandcutinto1cmcubes200mlbrownchickenstock(seehere)FORTHEBORDELAISESAUCE

400mlredwine35gshallotsfinelychopped60gcarrotsfinelychopped40gmushroomsfinelychopped1tbspchoppedparsley2sprigsofthyme8peppercorns1bayleaf500mlbeefstock(seehere)

Rinsethepearlbarleyinasieveundercoldrunningwaterforafewminutes

RinsethepearlbarleyinasieveundercoldrunningwaterforafewminutestoremoveexcessstarchPlaceinasaucepancoverwithcoldwaterandbringtotheboilDrainandrinseundercoldrunningwateragainReturnthebarleytothepanandcovergenerouslywithwaterBringtotheboilreducetheheatandsimmerfor15minutesAddthebeetrootandcookfor20ndash30minutesuntilthebeetrootisaldenteandthebarleytenderDrainandreturnthebarleyandbeetroottothepanAddthechickenstockandcookoveramediumheatfor5ndash10minutesstirringregularlyuntilthebarleyhasabsorbedthestockandisglazedinappearanceSeasonwithsalttotaste

MeanwhilemakethebordelaisesaucePutalltheingredientsexceptthebeefstockinasaucepanandbringtoasimmerCookuntiltheliquidhasreducedtoabout2tablespoonsAddthestockandsimmerfor10ndash15minutesthenstrainintoapanCookoveramediumheatuntilthesaucelightlycoatsthebackofaspoonSeasonwithsalttotaste

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6LightlyoilthepigeonbreastsandseasononbothsidesPlacealargeovenprooffryingpanoverahighheatOncethepanissmokinghotaddathinfilmofoilPlacethepigeonbreastsinthepanskinned-sidedownLeavefor15secondsoruntillightlybrownedunderneaththenturnthemovergentlypressdownwithafishsliceandtransferthepantotheovenforabout3minutesthemeatshouldstillgivealittlewhenyoupressitwithafingerRemoveandtransfertoawarmplatetorestfor10minutesMeanwhilecookthekaleinalargepanofboilingsaltedwateruntiltender(nomorethan45seconds)Drainwellbeingsuretostrainoffasmuchliquidaspossibleandtosswiththeknobofbutter

Spoonthebarleyonto4servingplatesandarrangethekalearounditSliceeachpigeonbreastinto3andplaceontopPourthesauceoverandsprinklewithalittlesaltorsmokedsalt

SteamedLemonSolewithFondantPinkFirsGoldenBeetrootandNasturtiumRemoulade

ThedelicatefleshandsubtleflavouroflemonsolearebestpreservedbysteamingInanattempttoprotecttheyoungerfishandpreventdepletionofthespeciesCornwallhasenforcedabyelawthatonlylemonsolelongerthan25cmcanbefishedTherearenosuchrestrictionsintheEUsoyoushouldtryasfaraspossibletobuysolethathavebeenfishedsustainablyWheneveryoubuyfishitrsquosworthcheckingtheMarineConservationSocietyrsquosonlineguidetoseafood(wwwfishonlineorg)whichratesthesustainabilityofeachspeciesonascaleofonetofiveWehadforawhilebeendebatingwhatwerethebestaccompaniments

tofishwithallofusagreeingthatcapersfeaturedhighonthelistUnfortunatelytheytendtogrowonlyinwarmerclimatesandwewantedtouseahomegrownalternativeNasturtiumseedsfittedthebillperfectlyIfyoudonrsquothavenasturtiumsinyourgardenyoucouldofcourseusecapersRemouladeisamayonnaise-basedsaucetypicallymadewithfinelydiced

cornichonsorothergherkinsUsingwhatwehaveavailablecansometimesproveachallengebutinthisinstanceitproducedauniquesweetgoldenbeetrootsauce

SERVES42lemonsolefilleted400gpurplesproutingbroccoliseasalt

FORTHEGOLDENBEETROOTANDNASTURTIUMREMOULADE

1smallgoldenbeetroot215mlcidervinegar1tspgroundfennelseeds1eggyolk1tablespoonorchardhoney1teaspoonEnglishmustard1tspseasalt350mlrapeseedoil

350mlrapeseedoil1tbspPickledNasturtiumSeeds(seehere)chopped1tbspchoppedflat-leafparsley

FORTHEFONDANTPINKFIRS

1tbsprapeseedoil500gPinkFirApplepotatoes(orotherwaxypotatoes)cutinto4cmpieces250gbuttercutintocubes

FirstmaketheremouladePeelthebeetrootcutitinto1cmcubesandsaltitgenerouslyLeaveforabout10minutestodrawoutalittlemoistureThiswillaidthecrunchRinsethebeetrootbrieflyandputitinabowlBring200mlofthevinegartotheboilwiththegroundfennelpouritoverthebeetrootandleavetocool(Thevinegarwhichwillhaveanearthyflavourfromthebeetrootcanbesavedforsaladdressings)Placetheeggyolkhoneymustardsaltandtheremaining15mlvinegarinabowlandwhiskeitherwithanelectricwhiskonfullspeedfor1minuteorbyhandforalittlelongerThiswillallowtheacidstogotoworkontheeggproteinsAddtherapeseedoilinaveryslowtrickleandwatchtomakesureitisbeingfullyincorporatedwhilethemixercontinuestospinoryourarmisablurOncethemixturehasemulsifiedyoucanpourtheoilinalittlefasterEventuallythemixtureshouldhaveathickwobblyconsistencyDrainthebeetrootandstiritintogetherwiththepicklednasturtiumseedsandparsleyChilluntilreadytoservendashitwillkeepforacoupleofdaysinthefridge

Forthefondantpotatoesheattheovento200degCGasMark6PlacealargeovenprooffryingpanoveramediumheatuntilhotAddtheoilfollowedbythepotatoesandcookstirringuntilthepotatoesaregoldenalloverSeasonwithsaltandaddallthecubesofbutterplusasplashofwaterAllowthebuttertomeltthencoverthecontentsofthepanwithadiscofgreaseproofpaperPlaceintheovenandcookfor30ndash35minutesuntilaknifewillpassthroughthepotatoeswithlittleresistance

Seasonthesolefilletsrollthemupandspikeon4skewers(seephotographsopposite)YouwillneedatallpanwithalidtocookthefilletsontheirspikesBringafewcentimetresofwatertoasimmerinthepanthenstandtheskewersinitCoverandcookgentlyfor7ndash8minutesuntilthefishisjustcookedthroughRemovefromthepanandkeepwarm

Cookthebroccoliinapanofboilingsaltedwaterfor3ndash4minutesuntiljusttenderthendrainCarefullyremovethesolefromtheskewersandserveonthefondantpotatoesaccompaniedbythebroccoliandsplashesoftheremoulade

daggerNasturtiumsareavaluableplanttohaveinanygardenTheleavesattractblackflyandslugswhichmeansthattheseunwantedvisitorsleaveothernearbyplantsandvegaloneThewholeplantisediblewiththeflowerstastingmoremagnificentthanwildrocketTheirpepperytastemakesthemworthyoftheirnamewhichmeanslsquonosetwistrsquo(PickledNasturtium

Seedspicturedseehere)

SeaRobinwithFennelButterSauceandHerbedPinkFirs

GurnardusedtobesounprofitableforfishermenthatitwasmostlyusedasbaitordiscardedThankstoenvironmentalcampaignersandchefshoweverthespecieshasrecentlybeensuccessfullychampionedasfoodanditisindeedsuperblytastyItiswidelythoughtofasanuglyfishbutwethinkthatitspoutingmouthandbigblackeyeswouldnotbeoutofplaceinacartoonThegurnardrsquosancientnameoflsquosearobinrsquomadeitsinclusiononourmenu

essentialasitseemedsopertinenttoourlocationLegendhasitthatrobinsaretheguardiansoftheorchardsSearobinsgainedtheirnameduetotheirabilitytoproducesoundswiththeirswimbladdersandattachedmusclesItseemsthattheyareasrelentlesslyvocalasourlandrobinswhichsingallyearroundThedelicate-tastingskinofthisfishmakesasuperbmatchforthe

liquoricehintoffennelseedsFennelcanbeseenfloweringbetweenJulyandOctoberincentralandsouthernareasofEnglandandalongcoastlinesinWalesTheseedscanbekeptandusedallyearroundYouwillappreciatethataniseedadditiontoyourfoodinthedepthsofwinterwhenotherinterestingingredientsarescarceThesauceisavariationonaclassichollandaisemadewithroughlyhalf

theusualamountofbutterWeliketoservethiswithkale(seehere)

SERVES42gurnardscaledandfilletedadrizzleofoilaknobofbutterfineseasaltandblackpepper

FORTHEFENNELBUTTERSAUCE

100mlfishstock(seehere)75mlwhitewine1tspfennelseeds185gcoldbuttercutinto1cmcubes

adashofcidervinegar3eggyolks

FORTHEHERBEDPOTATOES

600gPinkFirApplepotatoes(orotherwaxypotatoes)cutinto4ndash5cmpieces

1tbsprapeseedorgroundnutoilaknobofunsaltedbutterahandfulofparsleychopped

Ensurethegurnardfilletsareasdryaspossiblebeforescoringtheskinwithasharpknifewithcuts1cmapart(Seeoppositeforourtipondryingthefishfillets)Tomakethesauceputthefishstockwhitewineandfennelseedsinasmallpanoveramedium-highheatandboiluntiltheliquidhasreducedto3or4tablespoonsStrainitintoaheatproofbowltoremovethefennelseedsandleavetocoolfor5minutes

AddtheeggyolkstothereducedstockandwhiskuntilfullyincorporatedSitthebowloverapanofbarelysimmeringwatermakingsurethewaterdoesnrsquottouchthebaseofthebowlWhiskthemixtureuntilitbecomesairyandthickndashlookforsoftpeaksasyouwouldwitheggwhitesAtthisstagewhiskinthebutterapieceatatimeensuringeachisfullyincorporatedbeforeaddingthenextAfterawhilelargerquantitiesofbuttercanbeaddedeachtimeSeasonwithfineseasaltandvinegartotasteTakethepanofftheheatbutleavethebowloverthewaterwhileyoucookthefishandstirthesauceregularlytopreventaskinforming

CookthepotatoesinboilingsaltedwateruntiltenderthendrainPlacealargeheavy-basedfryingpanoverahighheatWhenitishotaddtheoilquicklyfollowedbythepotatoesTosstocoatlightlywiththeoilandseasonwithfineseasalt

CookstirringuntilgoldenalloverthenaddthebutterandparsleyTossthroughandremovefromtheheat

Heatalargeheavy-basedfryingpanoveramedium-highheatVerylightlyoiltheskinofthegurnardfilletsandseasonwithalightevenlayeroffineseasaltandcrackedblackpepperPourathinfilmofoilintothehotfrying

seasaltandcrackedblackpepperPourathinfilmofoilintothehotfryingpanandaddthegurnardskin-sidedownCookoveramediumheatwithoutturningormovingthefishfor2ndash3minutesuntiltheskinturnsgoldenbrownFlipthefilletsovertakethepanofftheheatandaddalargeknobofbutterLeavetorestfor5minutesndashthefishwillfinishcookingintheheatofthepanToservespoontheherbedpotatoesintothecentreofeachplateandpressdownwiththebackofthespoontocrushthemslightlyPlacethegurnardfilletsontopandspoonagenerousamountofthesaucearoundthepotatoes

LiquidshighinaciditysuchascitrusjuiceandvinegarcanbeusedasflavourenhancersmuchlikesaltItrsquosnotnecessarilythetasteofvinegarorcitrusthatwewantinthesaucebuttheyliftrichheavyflavoursprovidingawelcomeacidityandacleaner

tasteWhenusedasaseasoningvinegarshouldnotbenoticeableIfitisobviousthenyoursquoveusedtoomuch

ToachieveacrispskinonthefishasmuchmoistureaspossiblemustberemovedbeforecookingLaythefilletsskin-sideuponaboardRunaknifebladeangledslightlydownthefilletfromtheheadendtothetailendusingtheknifeasasqueegeetopushthemoisturedownandoutoftheskinUsekitchenpapertowipeoffthemoisturethatcollectsontheknifeandatthetailendofthefishRepeatuntiltheskinfeelsdrytothetouchFlipthefillets

overandwithasharpknifecuteachoneinhalfataslightangleTurnthefilletsskin-sideupagainandscoretheskinwithcuts1cmapartAverysharpknifeorascalpelwillcomeinhandyhereBesurenottocutintothefleshndashitrsquosonlytheskinyou

wanttoscoreThishelpsstopthefilletscurlingintheheatofthepan

PineappleTurmericandGingerGlazedHamwithlsquoPiccalillirsquo

SaladsdonotgetmuchbetterthanthisoneGammonandpineapplehavebeenafamiliarcombinationonpubmenusfordecadesThereissciencebehindthispairingasweoftenfindwhenweanalyseclassicfoodcombinationsPineapplecontainstheenzymebromelainwhichisanaturaltenderiserformeatMexicoalsohasabromelainandporkloveaffairascanbeseenatthetacosalpastorstandsThisoutrageouslyscoffablestreetfoodcomprisessmallcorntacosfilledwithshavingsofporkthathasbeengrilled

underpineappleThejuicedripsontothemeatasitcookscaramelisingandtenderisingitintheprocessIntheUKthepineappleusedtobeasymbolofwealthandhospitality

ParticularlyduringtheeighteenthcenturypossessionofthisspikyfruitwassoprestigiousthattherewasaproliferationofpineapplepitsincountryhousesacrossBritainApineapplepitwasademonstrationoftremendousgrowingskillanddedicationTheenergyneededtogrowthistropicalfruitismonumentalndashtheprocessinvolvedamixtureofmoistheatfromfermentingoakbarkorhorsemanureintheeartharoundthepineappleandanintricatesetoffurnacesandchimneysforadditionalheatTherearetheruinedremainsofapineapplepitonprivatelyownedlandverynearBarleyWoodItbelongedtotheslave-tradeabolitionistWilliamWilberforceafriendandallyofourBarleyWoodbenefactorHannahMorewhobuiltBarleyWoodHouseinthelateeighteenthcenturyDuringDecemberpineapplesfromtheCaribbeanareinseasonTryto

findFairtradefruitthatsmellssweetatthebaseThisindicatesthatithasbeenpickedclosetoripenessaspineapplesdonotripenfurtherafterbeingpicked

SERVES8GENEROUSLY

1largepineapple250ggoldengranulatedsugar3tbspgroundturmeric50gfreshgingerpeeledandfinelydiced1ndash2kgfree-rangecookedham

FORTHEPICCALILLI

200gcidervinegar100gcastersugar20corianderseedsfrac12tspdriedchilliflakes100gshallotstoppedandtailedslicedinhalfthroughthetopsandseparatedintoindividuallayers1tbspgroundturmeric

100gcauliflowerflorets

100gGlazedStarAnisecarrots(seehere)Heattheovento200degCGasMark6TopandtailthepineappleandcutawaythespikyskinCutthefleshawayfromthecoreandplaceinablenderorfoodprocessorPulsetillsmooththenstrainthemixturethroughasievepressingwiththebackofaspoontoextractthejuiceReserve35mlofthejuiceforthesaladdressing(youwonrsquotneedtherest)PutthepulpinabowlandmixwiththesugarturmericandgingerThisistheglazingmixturefortheham

Placethehamflat-sidedownonabakingsheetandspreadtheglazingmixturethicklyoveritCookfor30ndash40minutesuntiltheglazeiscaramelisedSetasidetocool

ForthepiccalilliheatthevinegartoboilingpointaddthesugarandstiruntildissolvedAddthecorianderseedschilliflakesandshallotsandbringbacktoasimmerRemovetheshallotswithaslottedspoonandsetasidetocoolAddtheturmerictothehotliquidfollowedbythecauliflowerfloretsBringtoasimmerthenstirwellRemovefromtheheatandleavethecauliflowertocoolintheyellowvinegarItwillpickupthecolouroftheturmericasitcools

FORTHESALADDRESSING

85mlcold-pressedrapeseedoilorgroundnutoil25mlcidervinegar35mlpineapplejuice1tspgroundstaranise1tspDijonmustard2pinchesofsalt

FORTHESALAD

200gMiikepurplegiantleaves(orothermustardysaladleaves)100gsaladleaves(weuseamixtureofredfrillwatercressandlandcress)100gwinterlettuceleavesabunchofcorianderabunchofchrysanthemumleavesifavailable

Tomakethedressingplacealltheingredientsinablenderandblenduntilemulsified

emulsified

ArrangeallthesaladleavesonservingplatesreservingafewofthesmallerredfrillforgarnishIfithelpstocuttheMiikepurplegiantdownthendosoSlicethehamandplaceacoupleofslicesontopoftheleavesintertwinedwithpiecesofthedeconstructedpiccalilliFinishbylightlydrizzlingoverthedressingandgarnishingwiththereservedleaves

GlazedStarAniseCarrots

300gcarrotspeeledandcutinto25cmchunks20gsaltedbutter2staranise1tspsugarpinchoffineseasalt

HeatapanoveramediumheatThepanshouldbebigenoughtoholdthecarrotsinasinglelayerWhenthepanishotaddthebutter(thebuttershouldsizzlebutnotburn)ThesecondthesizzlingsubsidesaddthestaraniseandcarrotsTossthecarrotsthroughthebuttertocoatevenlythenaddthesugarandsaltAddabout330mlcoldwatertothepan(enoughtoalmostcoverthecarrots)andturntheheatuptohighItmaytake5ndash10minutesforthewatertoalmostfullyreduceandthenthecarrotswillbegintosizzleagainStirthecarrotsvigorouslysothattheybegincaramelisingevenlyonallsidesWhentheyareanevengoldencolourremovefromthepanandservestraightaway

daggerAnumberofapplestastingremarkablylikepineapplecanbefoundinBritishorchardsExamplesinourorchardareRibstonPippinand

BlenheimOrangePitmastonPineapplewasmostlikelygrownfromaGoldenPippinseedlingbyJohnWilliamsin1845atPitmastonHouseinWorcesterThissmallsweetandrussetapplehasremarkablepineappletonesandyellowflesh

WINTERSALADS

MarkthegardenergrowshiswintersaladleavesinpolytunnelsatthebottomofthewalledgardenTheyrsquoreonaraisedplatformhoveringoverthefieldbelowDuringwinterwecanusuallytellwhetherMarkisinbyatrailingplumeofsmokefromthelittlestovethatheatshiskettleHealsothrowstogetheranexcellentvegetablestewthatwilloftensitcookingonthestoveformostofthemorningTheviewthroughthetunnelsandoutoftheopendoorisawonderfulsightoverlookingthefieldbelowitgivestheimpressionofanentrancetoanotherworldThetunnelsareplantedwithanumberofleavesthatprovidefresh

succulenceandawelcomevitamininjectiontotheshortchillydaysofwinterInthesaladonhereweuseMiikepurplegiant(Brassicajuncea)ThisleafisclassedasavegetableandinsomeculturesisboiledandsteamedWeprefertoeatitrawandrelishitshotmustardflavourItisalsoanindicatoroftheweatherasitturnsadeeperpurpleasthetemperaturedropsOppositeMarkhasplantedwinterpurslane(Claytoniaperfoliata)AnativeofNorthAmericaitisalsoknownasminerrsquoslettuceasitwaseatenbyminerstofendoffscurvyIthasalily-pad-liketopandatendertrailingstemMatureleavesseethebloomingofatinyflowerthatpiercesthecentreInrecentyearsMarkhastakentogrowingchrysanthemumsfortheir

leavesTheyhaveadistinctivetangthatresemblespineapplePrisingitfromMarkrsquosmuddyfingersisatrickybusinessbutwellworthitAddingmoremustardheatandcolourisredfrillndashajaggedvarietycontainingtwoexcellentcompoundssinigrinandgluconasturtiinWhenthesinigrinintheleafisexposedtocompoundsintheairitreactsandcreatesmustardoilItisthisverymustardyoilthatgivesthedishonhereitsfireaperfectcomplementtothesweettenderham

EcclesCakeswithDorsetBlueVinnySauce

TherelationshipbetweensweetandsavouryisaninterestingoneSaltmakessweetingredientstastelessone-dimensionalsoyouperceivethemasbeingmoreflavourfulthantheyreallyarePerhapsthemostcommonexampleofthecombinationisourlong-standingtraditionofeatingcheesewithfruitNoonewouldraiseaneyebrowifyousuggestedaccompanyinganuttyRussetapplewithasliceofCheddarInYorkshirendashandinsomepartsofAmericandashservingapplepiewithapieceofcheeseiscommonplaceThisdishsprangfromtheBritishtraditionofpairingEcclescakeswitha

sliceofLancashirecheeseWestartedexperimentingwithanEcclescakerecipewhenweweretryingtofindsuitablepuddingsforasherryandgamenightattherestaurantWethoughtDorsetBlueVinnywouldbeaworthylocalalternativetoLancashirecheeseasitisequallycreamyyethasmoredepthHavingworkedoutthecorrectcheese-to-sherryratioforthesauce

depthHavingworkedoutthecorrectcheese-to-sherryratioforthesaucewepoureditovertheEcclescakesthathadjustcomeoutoftheovenhopingtheresultwouldbemorethanpalatableItworkedremarkablywellandhasbecomeourWestCountryversionofthetraditionalnortherndishWefeaturethisdessertregularlyonourdaytimemenuandfindthatsome

customersapproachitwithadegreeofnervousnessButweareyettomeetanyonewhodoesnotthoroughlyenjoyitswell-balancedquirkinessThesaucehasbecomesopopularthatcustomersoftenrequestitasanaccompanimenttowhichevercakehappenstobeonthedessertmenuWemustobservethatnoteverycakeisentirelycompatiblewiththesaucebutwhoarewetocurtailourcustomersrsquoinventiveness

MAKES14CAKES50gbutter90gdarksoftbrownsugar1frac34teaspoonsgroundmixedspice(seehereifyoursquodliketomakeyourown)270gcurrants

50gCandiedPeel(seehereorusegood-qualityboughtpeel)finelychopped1quantityofFlakyPastry(seehere)orgood-qualityshop-boughtpuffpastry1egglightlybeaten

demerarasugarforsprinkling

FORTHEDORSETBLUEVINNYSAUCE

250mldoublecream100gcastersugar40gDorsetBlueVinnycheese(orSticheltoncheese)crumbled50mlsweetsherrysuchasPedroXimeacutenezorBristolCream

Tomakethesauceputthecreamsugarcheeseandsherryinapan(includehalfthecurrantsifyouwanttoenrichtheflavouroftheEcclescakes)andheatgentlyuntilthecheesehasmeltedandthesauceissmoothStrainthroughasieveandsetaside(reservethecurrantsfortheEcclescakes)Thesaucecanbekeptinthefridgeforupto2weeks

TomaketheEcclescakesplacethebuttersugarandmixedspiceinasaucepanandheatthroughgentlystirringoccasionallyuntilthesugarhasmeltedintothebutterRemovefromtheheatandstirinthecurrants

meltedintothebutterRemovefromtheheatandstirinthecurrants(includingtheonesusedforthesauce)andthecandiedpeelSetasidetocool

Heattheovento180degCGasMark4TakethepastryoutofthefridgeandsetitonalightlyflouredsurfacewithoneoftheshortendsnearestyouRollouttoabout3mmthickUsingan11cmpastrycuttercutoutasmanyroundsasyoucanDividethefillinginto40gportionsandplaceoneportioninthecentreofeachcircleofpastryThismayseemlikealotbutitmakessensewhenyouareeatingthecakesNextyouneedtoenclosethecurrantmixtureinthepastryThiscanbequitetrickybutyouwillfindatechniquethatworksafteralittleplayingWedoitbypinching4lsquocornersrsquoofthecircletogetheroverthecurrantmixtureandthengentlyfoldingintheexcesspastryWhereyouarepinchingthepastrytogetherwillbetheundersidesoaslongasthefillingiscompletelyencloseditdoesnrsquotneedtolookperfectThepastryshouldsealitselfbutifnecessarybrushitverylightlywithwater

PlacetheEcclescakestherightwayupontheworksurfaceandshapeeachoneintoaneatroundwithaflattopThismayrequireasmallamountofmanipulatingUsingasharpknifeslash3horizontallinesacrossthetopLightlybrushthetopoftheEcclescakeswithbeatenegganddustwithdemerarasugarBakefor18minutesoruntilthepastryisgoldenbrownandcookedallthewaythroughTransfertoawireracktocoolfor10minutesthenservewiththesauceDingdangdoo

daggerMadefromthemilkthatisleftafterskimmingoffthefattomakebutterDorsetBlueVinnyisathriftywartimecheesebornoutoftheneednottowasteanythingItretainsitscreaminessbyreintroducingsemi-skimmedmilkpowdertothemilkonceitreachestheappropriatetemperatureLegendhasitthatthebacteriausedtobeintroducedbydraggingmouldyhorseharnessesthroughthemilkbeforeaddingtherennetandstoringthecheeseondampbagsnexttomouldybootsSadlyitisboringpenicillinbywayofblue-mouldsolutionnowadays

MilkStoutandChocolateSteamedPudding

ThisrecipeisacombinationoftwoofourfavouritethingsmilkstoutandaBritishsteamedpuddingWhenwefirstopenedTheEthicureanwedrankBristolBeerFactoryrsquoschilledmilkstoutonthelawnoverlookingthegardenIthadthemostremarkablebalanceofsweetnessandroastmaltthatwehadevertastedSincethisboozysummereveninglsquomilkstoutonthelawnrsquohasbecomeshorthandforlsquoHurryupletrsquosgoandhaveabeerrsquoMilkstoutwasfirstbrewedontheBristolBeerFactorysiteinthe1900s

anditsrecentrevivalwasanexcellentmoveDuringthebrewingprocessunfermentablelactosesugarisaddedgivingthebeeraresidualsweetness

unfermentablelactosesugarisaddedgivingthebeeraresidualsweetnessThispuddingservedwithaninappropriateamountofdoublecream

shouldberegardedasanewBritishclassic

SERVES6160mlBristolBeerFactoryrsquosmilkstout150gbuttercutintocubes235gcastersugar45gcocoapowder160gplainflour85mlsouredcream1largeegg2tspvanillaextract1frac12tspbicarbonateofsodadoublecreamtoserve

PlacethemilkstoutandbutterinasaucepanoverthelowestpossibleheatandwhiskuntilthebutterhasjustmeltedItisimportantnottooverheatthemixtureorthebutterwillsplitresultinginanoilypuddingAddthesugarandstiruntildissolved

Siftthecocoapowderandflourintothemixturein2lotswhiskingthoroughlyaftereachtoblendwellSetaside

LightlywhiskthesouredcreameggvanillaandbicarbonateofsodatogetheruntilcombinedAddthistothestoutandflourmixtureandwhiskbrieflytoincorporateoncemore

Thoroughlygreasea12litrepuddingbasinwithbutterAddthepuddingmixtureTakeapieceoffoillargeenoughtocoverthetopofthebasingenerouslyfoldingathickpleatinthecentre(thiswillallowthepuddingtoexpandduringsteaming)andplaceitonthebasintuckingtheedgesfirmlyundertherimPutthebasininasteamerbasketandsetitoverapancontainingabout10cmboilingwaterCoverandsteamoveralowheatfor2hourscheckingthewaterlevelevery30minutesandtoppingupwhennecessary

Removethebasinfromthesteamerandleavetostandfor5minutesTake

Removethebasinfromthesteamerandleavetostandfor5minutesTakeoffthefoilrunaknifearoundtheedgeofthepuddingthenturnitoutontoaplateYoursquollneedplentyofcreamasthispuddingisseriouslythirsty

PedroXimeacutenezandWhiskywithVermouthSmoke

EveryyearweholdasherryandgamenightpairingvarioussherrieswithatastingmenuofgamePedro-Ximeacutenez(PX)isalwaysthefavouritesherryandwelovepairingitwithEcclescakes(seehere)ThisvelvetysherryisthecolourofdarkwoodandwithitsraisinandcaramelflavourstastesalmostlikeChristmaspuddinginliquidformCombiningPXwithawhiskysuchasMacallan10YearOldFineOakandalittlevermouthsmokecreatesatotallyuniquecocktailEvenafterthelastfewdropshavebeendrunkmanycustomersaskforthedecantertostayonthetablesothattheycanbreatheinthelastofthetreaclesmoke

SERVES2100mlPX(welikeBodegasGutierrezColosiaPedroXimeacutenez)50mlwhisky(welikeMacallan10YearOldFineOakwhisky)

TOMAKEICESPHERES

WashlongballoonsoutbeforefillingthemwithwaterTieofftheballoonsandthenusestringtoseparatethemintothesizeofspherethatyouwouldlikeRememberthattheywillexpandastheyfreezeUsingdistilledwaterwillmeanthattheiceiscompletelyclearbuttheystilllookimpressivewhenmadewithtapwater

JackusesasmokeguntomakethisdrinkChillthePXandwhiskybystirringtogetherwithiceinamixingglassNextfilladecanterwithsmokeJackusesoakchipsthathavebeenusedtooakourVermouth(seehere)andthendriedPourthechilledliquidintothedecanterandpopinthestopperThesmokeshouldgraduallyformadensecloudPourintosmallglassesfilledwithplentyofice(weliketoputanicesphereineachglassseeleft)

Ifyoudonothaveaccesstoahandsmokeryoucanmakethisdrinkinabarbecuesmoker(seeTinCanandSolderingIronApproachhere)Placethedrinkinacontainerwithasmuchsurfaceareaaspossibleandleavetosmokefor1hour

NOTEWehaveexperimentedwithupscalingthisrecipeandbottlinglargerquantitiesthenleavingtomature(theNegronionherealsoupscales

wonderfully)WereuseSipsmithrsquosginbottles(thanksSipsmith)AtthetimeofwritingwehaveabottleofthiscocktailthatwasmixedthreemonthsagoWehavenoticedarealdevelopmentinthecomplexitiesofflavourastheelementsbegintofeatherinitbecomesdifficulttosensewhereonecomponentendsandanotherbegins

FennelSeedandGingerHotChocolate

WefirsttastedthiscombinationofchocolateherbandspiceattheAbergavennyFoodFestivalOurstallhappenedtobenexttothatofthechocolatierPaulAYoungandheverykindlygaveusafewofhiscreationstotasteWewerestruckbythesweetfragrantalmostmedicinalqualityofhismilkchocolatewithfennelseedandgingerOncethecoldweathercaughtupwithusatTheEthicureanweexperimentedwithafewhotchocolaterecipesandsettledonthisonewhichwethinkcapturestheessenceofPaulrsquosideaRomanescofennelseedsareharvestedatBarleyWoodwhentheseed

headsturnbrownThewholeheadscanbeputinapaperbagtodryAfterafewweeksastrongshakewilldeposittheseedsatthebottomofthebagTheseseedsareattheirabsolutebestwhentheyarestillalittlegreenTomakethefennelsugarwhizequalquantitiesofgranulatedsugarandfennelseedstogetherinablenderorfoodprocessorItcanbeaddedtoallsortsofdesserts

SERVES2COMFORTABLY

400mlmilk100gdarkchocolatewith70ndash73percentcocoasolidsgratedplusalittleextratofinish(weuseOriginalBeanschocolate)1tspgroundginger

20gdarkmuscovadosugarapinchofsalt2tspfennelsugar100mldoublecream

Gentlyheathalfthemilkinapanandaddthegratedchocolategingermuscovadosugarsaltandmostofthefennelsugar(saveapinchforsprinkling)StiruntilthechocolatehasmeltedintothemilkthenwhiskintheremainingmilkandthecreamDonotallowthemixturetoboilbutbringittoacomfortabledrinkingtemperatureIfyouhaveahandblendersubstitutethisforawhiskeitherwayforafrothyheadagoodamountofwhiskingisneeded

Servesprinkledwiththeremainingfennelsugarandafewshardsofchocolate

IfyouhaveaccesstoanespressomachinecombinethegratedchocolatewiththegingersugarsaltfennelandjustenoughmilktomakeathickpastethenheatitusingthesteamwandWarm2mugsandpourthethickspicedchocolateintothemSteamtheremainingmilkwiththecreaminametaljugusingthesteamwandThetrickistointroduceenoughsteamnearthesurfaceofthemilktocreateawhirlpoolthisshouldgenerateverylittlenoiseKeepahandcuppedaroundthesteamingjugWhenitistoohottoholdcomfortablystopsteamingTapthejugontheworktopseveraltimestopopanysurfacebubblesandthenswirltominimiseanyseparationbetweenfoamandliquidPourthisglossymilkontothethickchocolateAfteralittlepracticeitisrelativelysimpletocreateafewpatternsThissteamingprocesswillcreatethemicro-foamneededtomakeasilkyhotchocolate

RecipeList

NettleSoupwithCaerphillyStGeorgersquosMushroomswithAsparagusRibwortPlantain

MushroomJellyandAppleJellySweet-cureMackerelwithMorelsSpeltSodaBreadand

HorseradishAsparaguswithToastedSesameandHollandaiseSauce

ClearHamHockBrothwithPoachedEggsCaerphillyandCiderWelshRabbit

SmokedChipotleChilliesSmokedRoeDeerLoinwithWildRocketClampedCarrots

HoneyedWalnutsandWoodSorrelCurdCheeseCucumberFlatBeanAniseedandSesame

CrabSaladwithNewPotatoesPickledCarrotandSmokedPaprikaMayonnaise

SpringRadisheswithAnchovyCregravemeFraicheTroutwithKelpandShiitakeMushroomStockRiceFlatBeans

andSeaKaleGoatMeatballsMashLovageButterandMustardGreens

OxTonguewithSwedeParsleyandCiderVinegarOxTonguewithCauliflowerGilliflowerandHazelnuts

SaltMarshLambwithTidalGreensSteamedRabbitPudding

PorkJuniperandBlackIPAPiePearlBarleywithOldDemdikeandStGeorgersquosMushroom

RhubarbandCustardChocolateandSaltCaramelBrownieswithCherryand

ElderflowerSauceElderflowersyrup

StrawberryandRoseLemonadePuddingwithSaffronandCiderBrandyCustard

TheEthicureanVermouthBotanicalsVermouth

RoseLemonadeTheEthicureanCocktail

Negroni

SPRINGINTHEWRINGTONValehasauniquefeelThereisasenseofimminentactivitythatmomentbeforesomebodytellsyousomethingtheyhavekeptsecretforalongtime

ColourcomesfirstandthedaffodilsarestilloutinlateMarchbetweentheoutsidewallandthelowerorchardthickyellowcarpetsintheshadowsoftheappletreesJackisoutstalkingroedeerwithAlanDownagoodfriendandexperiencedstalkerbeforethenewshootsandleavesprovidetoomuchcoverDuringspringmorningsbeforeserviceMatthewandIainrolldownthesleevesoftheirchefrsquoswhitesandpickyoungnettleshootswithglovedhandsCarriedupthroughthegardeninapplecratesthenettlesarecarefullycleanedandendupasabrightgreensoupLumpsofGorwyddCaerphillyarefloatedonthesurfacemeltingtoanirresistiblegelatinoustexture

KaleradishesandrainbowchardareallreadyWefrythekaleinahotpanwithplentyofcidervinegarandsaltMarkplantstheradishesasacompanionplantbetweentherowsofgarlicWeslicetheseredrootsintosaladsndashsomearefieryandneedacoolingsomethingtosubduetheirheatTherubychardrequireslittlecookingandissmotheredunderagenerousmeasureofhollandaiseasabreakfasttreat

AsspringcontinuesonitspaththebluebellsflowerreplacingtheyellowdaffodilsTheyareadeepvioletblueNotmanypeopleknowthattheVictorianswouldstiffentheircollarswithcrushedbluebells

NexttheblossomcomesasuresignofthenewseasoneachblossomapotentialfruitFirstuparetheplumsanddamsonsTheseguardthewestwallsprayedoutwardsontheircanedespaliersPearsandcherriesquicklyfollowwhileapplesareslowerblossominginAprilQuincecomesnextweareproudofoursingletreewhichprovidesuswithenoughfruitformembrilloallyearlongMedlarsarelastcream-colouredflowersthatwillbecomeuglyfruitbutwithexcellentflavourPaulacanbefoundwalkingbetweenthetreesforecastingourfuturecropandthebumblebeesareoutfor

betweenthetreesforecastingourfuturecropandthebumblebeesareoutfornectar

AprilcanmeanonlyonethingtheasparagusseasonWepatrolthebedsatBarleyWoodkeeneyeshuntingforthefirstelusivespearstopushuptheirtightcrisptipsThispreciouscropisdevouredwithpoachedeggsorstraightfromthepanwithplentyofbutter

StGeorgersquosDaymarksthetimetolookforStGeorgersquosmushroomsTheonlyforagedmushroomsafetobeeatenrawithasanaturalflavourcompanionintheformofribwortplantainThisseedheadfoundinourorchardisafirmfavouriteofoursandthetwotogethermakeawonderfulseasonaldelicacy

MayheraldstheyellowflowersofmeadowvetchlingandcreepingcinquefoilfavouritesofthegrizzledskipperbutterflyPrimrosesarealsofloweringintheshadeoftheBramleytrees

InJunetheherbgardenlooksbeautifulWepinchoutthenewgrowthtomakebotanicalteasforourhousevermouthMarkrsquosstrawberriesbegintocropandweuseupthelastjarofthepreviousseasonrsquosjaminourroselemonadesteamedpuddingThejampanissetfirmlybackonthestove

NettleSoupwithCaerphilly

Thissouprsquosstrikingemeraldcolour(nettleshaveoneofthehighestlevelsofchlorophyllinthevegetablekingdom)mightleadyoutothinkofitasalightstarterDonotbefooledItisanextremelywholesomesoupthatcouldhelpyourunamarathonRomansoldiersaresaidtohavebroughttheirownsupplyofnettlestoBritainasarichsourceofproteintofuellongmarchesinthecoldwetclimatePerhapsthatiswhythissoupissopopularwithstaffattherestaurantwhenonbusyspringdaysyouwillcatchusallsippingamugofittokeepusgoingTheCaerphillyaddsacreamytextureWefavourGorwyddCaerphilly

madebyourfriendstheTrethowanfamilyattheirfarmsituatedbetweenLampeterandAberystwythItisoneofourall-timefavouriteBritishcheesesandweconsideritsWelshrabbitcapabilitiestobeunrivalled(seehere)Oysterspairremarkablywellwithnettlesandwersquodrecommendserving

thissoupwithoystersdroppedintoitatthelastmomentThereisanionicqualitytothemboththatjustsingswhentheyareeatenincombinationAchunkofbreadwithapatofsaltedbutterisalsoanexcellentaddition

SERVES4

alittlevegetableoil500gonionsthinlysliced250gceleriaccutintosmallcubes250gcarrotscutintosmallcubes1litrefishstockorvegetablestock(seehere)100ndash120gnettletipsfreshlypicked(theymustbeveryyoung)200gCaerphillycheesepreferablyGorwyddcutintosmallcubesrapeseedoilfordrizzlingseasalt

PlacealargepanoveramediumheatAddathinfilmofvegetableoilfollowedbytheonionsceleriacandcarrotsCoverandsweatforabout5minutesuntilthevegetableshavestartedtosoftenbutarenotcolouredAddthestockbringtoasimmerandcookuntilthevegetablesaresoftTheyshouldbesoftenoughtoblitzeasilyanythingbeyondthathoweverandtheflavourwillbegintodull

flavourwillbegintodull

TransferthesouptoablenderinbatchesthatfillitnomorethanhalffullandblitzuntilsmoothaddingthenettleswiththefinalbatchPourthroughafinesieveintoacleanpanChecktheconsistencyofthesoupifyouwouldpreferalooserfinishstirinalittlemorestockSeasonwithseasalttotasteandreheatverygentlyifthenettlesareheatedfortoolongtheyturnaveryunappealingshadeofdarkgreenServeinlargebowlsgarnishedwiththecubesofCaerphillyandatinydrizzleofrapeseedoil

daggerThebasetothissoupiswhatisknownasamirepoixAmirepoixreferstoonionscelery(orinthiscaseceleriac)andcarrotsintheratioof211ItisaveryclassicstartingpointincookeryandresultsinanoveralltastethatisgreaterthanthatofitsworthyingredientsWeoftenusethisratioofvegetablesforstocksandbasesofsauces

MUSHROOMS

WhenweopenedtherestaurantwereliedonseveralprofessionalforagerstobringussteadysuppliesofmushroomsWecannotemphasiseenoughtheimportanceofusingexpertsinyourownlearningprocessIfyouareeverindoubtaboutthetypeofmushroomyouhavefounddonottakeachanceTheconsequencescanbefatalItisacommonmistaketoforgetoneofthefinestwild

mushroomsnativetoBritainndashStGeorgersquosmushroomTheyarefoundaround23AprilStGeorgersquosDayandareavailableuntilearlyJuneTheirdistinctivearomahasbeenaptlydescribedasthesmellofBritishfieldsThismakesperfectsenseastheyoftenforminaringcompletelyhiddenunderlonggrassIfyoufindtheirsmelloverwhelmingpleasedonrsquotgiveuponthemWeareconvincedthattheytastebestwheneatenrawsotrythesmalleronesfirstasthesmelldevelopswithageandyoumightfindthemlesspungentFailingthatifyoucookthemtheirscentisgreatlycamouflagedWehaveheardthatsomerestaurantsfeelnervousabouthavingthemonthemenuyetwithexpertidentificationtherereallyisnoreasontodepriveyourselfofsuchaninterestingdelicacyStGeorgersquosistheonlyforagedmushroomthatcanbeserved

rawandwewouldalwaysadviseyoutocookothervarietiesInitiallyrawStGeorgersquostasteoffreshcucumberbuttheflavourdevelopsintosomethingmoreakintomelontowardstheendWeservethemwithasparagusandribwortplantainanotherforagedplantthatiseasytofindasitgrowscommonlyonlawnsandgreenareasSadlyitisnowconsideredaweedbutpleasehelpusreintroduceittoBritishcookingItiseasytoidentifythebulbshaveelongatedkernel-liketipsandonceyouspotititisimpossibletomissItinitiallytastesslightlybitterbutthisdevelopsintoanuttywoodyflavourndashoftenlikenedtothatofcepmushroomsndashthattiesinperfectlywiththeearthywoodland

notesoftheStGeorgersquosFormoreofourthoughtsaboutmushroomsseehere

StGeorgersquosMushroomswithAsparagusRibwortPlantainMushroomJellyandAppleJelly

WeusedtoforageformushroomsasoftenaspossiblebeforemovingtotheWalledGardenAlwaysladenwithtoomanybooksonthesubjectwewouldsetoutwithourlurcherhopingtotrainhertofindsomedelicaciesOurlackofexperiencemusthaverubbedoffonherasshewasmoreinterestedinstickspineconesandsquirrelsGraduallywelearnedtoidentifychickenofthewoodsparasolsandbeefsteakfungusForagingbecameoneofourfavouriteautumnalactivitiesAtfirstwetravelledfurtherawaythanweneededinourquesttobecomeamateurmycologistsWithtimethoughwelearnedthevaluablelessonthatthebestingredientsareusuallytobefoundonyourdoorstep

SERVES4

abunchofasparagus20smallribwortplantainflowerheads1tspmintleavespreferablyspearmint12ndash16summerpurslaneleavesorothersaladleavesfineseasalt

FORTHEMUSHROOMJELLY

250gStGeorgersquosmushroomsapinchofsaltfrac12tspagaragarpowder

FORTHEAPPLEJELLY

250gapplejuicefrac12tspagaragarpowder

FirstmakethemushroomjellyRemovethestalksfromthemushroomsandsetthecapsasideCleanthestalksthoroughlyandthenchopfinelyPuttheminapancoverwith250gwaterandsimmerfor15minutesStrainthecookingliquorthroughafinesieveintoacleanpanpressingwiththebackofaspoontoextractitallDiscardthestalksMeasurethecookingliquorandaddadashmorewaterifnecessarytotakeitbackupto250gSeasonwith

addadashmorewaterifnecessarytotakeitbackupto250gSeasonwithsaltrememberingthatinthisinstancealittlegoesalongwayReturnthepantotheheatandstirintheagaragaruntildissolvedTheliquorneedstoboilbrieflytohydratetheagarandactivateitsgellingpropertiesPourintoasmallplasticboxWeuseonethatgivesafinaldepthofabout1cmsowecancutthejellyintocubesbutfeelfreetoexperimentLeavetocoolthenplaceinthefridgeuntilsetItwillkeepfor4days

FortheapplejellyheatthejuiceinapanstirintheagaragarandbringtotheboiluntildissolvedLeavetocoolandthensetinaplasticboxasdescribedabove

TrimtheasparagusbyfindingthenaturalpointwherethestalksnapsclosetothebaseandbreakingitoffHaveapanoffast-boilingsaltedwaterreadyandabowloficedwatertooCooktheasparagusintherapidlyboilingwaterforupto2minutesbutnomoreRemovethespearsandchillthemintheicedwatertheywillretaintheirbrightgreencolour

Finelyslicethereservedmushroomcapsandlaythemon4platesDustwithfineseasaltLaytheasparagusspearsontopofthemushroomsCutthejellyintosmallcubesandaddateaspoonofeachflavourtoeachplatealongwiththeribwortflowersmintleavesandpurslaneEncouragementforallamateurmycologists

Sweet-cureMackerelwithMorelsSpeltSodaBreadandHorseradish

ThecombinationofmackerelaniseedandhorseradishoffersawiderangeofflavoursThecurestopsthemackerelinitstrackspreservingafreshionicsnapshotoftheoceanHorseradishisafamiliarcompaniontomackerelsinceitswarmthisgoodwithoilyfishInterestinglyfishareattractedtothesmellofaniseedaswellastastingsuperbwithitMackerelareadelicatefishthatspoilquicklysochooseline-caughtones

andmakesuretheyareveryfreshThesmalloneswiththebrightesteyesarebestandareoftencheaperthanthelargerfishTheflavourofmorelmushroomsisextraordinaryndashreminiscentofthe

richnessofbeefThemushroomsreleasesporesthatarepickedupandcarriedbythewindSearchingformorelsisadeeplyengrossingtasksowatchoutforlowhangingbranchesasyouhuntWehavefoundthemunderashandsycamoretheyfavourdyinganddeadelmsTheyhavehollowfruitingbodiesandahoneycombstructureBewareoffalsemorelsknownasElfinSandalsThehorseradishsauceisausefulstandbythatcomesoutwheneverwe

haveleftoversirloinorbrisketItrsquosalsoverygoodoncoldlambsmokedfishandhamandexemplaryeatenwithSalt-bakedBabyBeets(seehere)andoxtongueDiguptherootofahealthyhorseradishwashawayresidualsoilandpeeltherootYouwilllikelybeleftwith50ndash100g(Ajarofgratedhorseradishisafinesubstitute)WhengratedhorseradishreleasesacompoundcalledsinigrinandenzymesitmeetsintheairimmediatelybreakthisdowntoformmustardoilThearomaisguaranteedtohaveyouinrabbinicallyintensetearsOursmallkitchenbecomesariotoffauxwailingandlaughterwheneverwepreparethisThetaskisnowseenasanaidtocamaraderieandteambuilding

SERVES44mackerelfilletspinbonesremoved10gdriedmorelmushrooms(orceps)400mlcidervinegar1tablespoonaniseed300gcastersugar

300gcastersugarfineseasalt

FORTHESPELTSODABREAD

200gbrownspeltflour200gwhitespeltflour50gfineoatmeal(oruseporridgeoatsthathavebeenblendeduntilfine)1tspbicarbonateofsoda1tspsalt1tbsphoney375mlbuttermilk(ifunavailablemix25mlwhitevinegarwith350mlmilkandleavetorestfor5minutes)

25gbuttermelted

FORTHEHORSERADISHSAUCE

1horseradishrootfinelygrated2tbspcidervinegar4tbspcregravemefraicirccheorsouredcream1teaspoonchoppedchives1teaspoonchiveflowersseasalt

Laythemackerelfilletsflesh-sidedownonabedoffineseasaltandchillfor2hourstocurethenrinseThisgivesafirmer-fleshedresult

Rehydratethemushroomsbysteepingtheminnear-boilingwaterwithasplashofthevinegarfor10minutesStrainreservingtheliquorandthencheckeachoneisfreeofsoilandsandTheliquorthatremainswillbedelicatelysmokyandtrulyflavoursome

WarmtheaniseedthroughinadrypanuntilitspitsandcracksthencarefullypourthemushroomliquorintothepanleavinganyresidueofsoilorsandbehindItwillboiluprapidlyasithitsthehotpansotakecareatthispointTheevaporationwillintensifytheflavourofthemushroomstockAddthevinegarandheatthroughthenaddthesugarandstiruntildissolvedAddthemorelmushroomsandremovefromtheheatAllowthismixturetocoolthenpouritoverthefishfilletsPlaceinthefridgeforatleast2hours

coolthenpouritoverthefishfilletsPlaceinthefridgeforatleast2hoursandupto6hoursThesimple-to-makespeltsodabreadcanfillthisgapquitecomfortably

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6MixallthedryingredientsforthebreadtogetherinalargebowlthenmakeawellinthecentreAddthehoneybuttermilkandmeltedbuttertothewellandmixwithawoodenspoonuntilwellcombinedPutthedoughintoa900gloaftin(ora23cmspringformcaketin)linedwithbakingparchmentandplaceintheovenBakefor15minutesthenreducetheoventemperatureto160degCGasMark3andbakefor30minuteslongerTurntheloafoutontoateatowelandtapthebaseitshouldsoundhollowIfnecessaryreturntotheovenforafewminuteslongerCooltheloafonawirerackcoveringitwithateatowelifyoupreferasoftcrust

CombinethegratedhorseradishvinegarandapinchofseasaltStrainthroughasievediscardingtheliquidthencombinewiththecregravemefraicirccheorsouredcreamSeasontotastewithsaltandtopwiththechivesandthepurple-huedchiveflowersThesweetaniseandmorelmackerelcannowbeliftedfromitssouseandservedwithchunksofbutteredsodabreadandtheirresistiblehorseradish

AsparaguswithToastedSesameandHollandaiseSauce

InaquietcornerbeyondthegardenwallsshelteredononesidebyasetofimposingcobnuttreesandguardedontheotherbydenseVictorianbayhedgesyouwillfindoneofourfavouriteingredientsgrowingsilentlyinitssandybedFormostoftheyeartheasparagusbedslookdesolateandgreylikeminiaturedunesinsomeforeignlandTheirdrabappearancemeansthattheyareoftenoverlookedbyvisitorstotheWalledGardenHowevertheyareregularlydisturbedbysquirrelstryingtoburythecobnutstheyhavelaboriouslycollectedfromtheneighbouringtreesWhentheasparagusspearsbegintogrowandweseetheirshyheadsstartingtopokeoutitisanintenselysatisfyingfeelingThenewsthattheasparagusisreadyforpickingtravelsfastwhichisprobablywhyitisinvariablytheitemwerunoutoffirstonthemenuNothingreallypreparesyouforthetasteofasparagusfreshlypickedfromthegarden

pickedfromthegardenUnfortunatelytheoriginalasparagusbedsattheWalledGardendidnot

survivethehardyearswhenthegardenwasallowedtofallintodeepdisrepairReplicasoftheoriginalswerebuiltin1999ThebedsareunusualbecausetheyareraisedndashafeaturethathelpsstoptherootsdrowninginsoddenclaysoilThevarietyisunknownbutwedoknowthattheywereplantedwiththeemphasisonflavourratherthansizeMatthewisconvincedthatasithasanunusualpurpletingetothetipandwhitebaseitmustbeFormbyasparagusfromFormbyinMerseysideWethinkhejustmissesthenorthwestalittlebuttheydobothlovesandysoilsoperhapsheisontosomethingTobeabletocutfreshasparagusfromthecornerofthegardeneverymorningandshareitwithourcustomersisoneofthethingsthatmakesusfeelveryluckytobealiveWechoosetoscattertoastedsesameseedsoverthisdishastheyaddasoftnuttycrunchtoadelicateingredientPeopleareoftenputoffbytheseemingcomplexityofhollandaisesauce

butthemethodoverleafoffersaneasywaytoachieveaconsistentresulteverytimeWeflavouritwithvintagecidervinegarinsteadofthemoretraditionallemonjuiceandfinditaddsanewdepthandaslightlyoakytasteWealsousesaltedbutterratherthanunsaltedOurfavouriteisMarylandwhichisproducedinSheptonMalletrelativelyclosetousandisquitesaltywithroughlytwopercentsaltWefindthatthesaltinessofthebutterbalancestheinherentacidityofthevinegarAlternativelyyoucoulduseanunsaltedbutterandseasontotastewithfineseasalt

SERVES4

2tbspsesameseeds4sprigsoftarragon20asparagusspearstrimmed

FORTHEHOLLANDAISESAUCE

3eggyolks1tbspvintagecidervinegarsuchasOstlerrsquos125gchilledsaltedorunsaltedbuttercutinto1cmcubesseasalt

Firstmakethehollandaisesaucefillasaucepantwo-thirdsfullwithwaterandbringtoarapidboilPuttheeggyolksandvinegarinaheatproofbowlandwhiskforabout1minuteuntilpaleandfluffyTakethepanofboiling

andwhiskforabout1minuteuntilpaleandfluffyTakethepanofboilingwaterofftheheatandsetthebowloveritensuringthebaseofthebowlisnottouchingthewaterQuicklyaddallthebuttertothebowlandwhisksteadilywithaballoonwhiskuntiltheheatfromthewatermeltsthebutterandcookstheeggsAfterafewminutesofconstantgentlewhiskingthehollandaisewillthickenWhenitistheconsistencyofathincustardtakethebowloffthepanandcontinuewhiskinguntiltheconsistencychangestothatofanimmaculatevelvetycustard

ToastthesesameseedsinafryingpanoveralowheatuntiltheyarelightgoldenbrownOncetheybeginbrowningtheycanburnveryeasilysokeepyoureyeonthemandstirregularlyforanevencolourRemovefromthepanandleavetocool

PlacethetarragoninapanlargeenoughtofitasteamerbasketontopAdd7ndash8cmofboilingwaterplaceonamediumheatandputthesteamerbasketonitWhenthewaterissimmeringaddtheasparagustothebasketcoverandsteamfor3ndash4minutesuntilthespearsaretenderbutretainabitofbite

Toserveplacethespearson4servingplatespouroverthehollandaiseandgarnishwiththetoastedsesamePoachedeggs(seehere)wouldmakeaworthyadditiontothisdelightfulstarter

ClearHamHockBrothwithPoachedEggs

ThisbrothisamarvellouslynourishingclearandbalancedliquidToachievesuchclarityweneedtoactlikewaterfollowingthepathofleastresistanceexercisingpatiencewegetwhereweneedandtherewardistwofoldwithstockasclearaswaterfromababblingmountainbrookandasdeepasPoseidonrsquosrealminflavourWhenthepoachedeggyolkisbrokenthedishchangesbeforeyoureyesandanewdepthofrichnessbecomesobvioustothetongueThebrothmustbemadewellinadvanceasithastobefrozensoonafter

its5hoursinthepanandthendefrostedovernightinthefridgeThismayseemalongprocessbutonceyoursquoveexperiencedtherewardsandknowwhatrsquosinstorethenexttimewillbeabreezeYouwillendupwithmorestockherethanyouneedforthisdishbutitkeepswellinthefreezerWecookharicotbeansinitanduseittorehydratedriedmorels(seehere)amongstotherthingsTheonlywaytogetperfectpoachedeggsistouseeggsasnewlylaidas

possibleWithinoneortwodaysisbestsobefriendsomeonewiththeirownpeepofchickensorconsideraidingthecommendableworkofTheBritishHenWelfareTrustbyrehomingsomebatterychickensyourselfandhavingaccesstotrulyfresheggseveryday

SERVES44veryfreshorganiceggscidervinegar150grainbowchardcuthorizontallyinto25cmstrips1lovageleaffinelyslicedseasaltandblackpepper4wildvetchtipsorpeashootstogarnish

FORTHEHAMHOCKBROTH

1hamhock1bayleaf1clove1staranise2peppercorns

2peppercorns2corianderseeds4lovageseeds(orfennelseeds)2parsleystalks100gonionsdiced50gcarrotdiced50gceleriacdiced

FirstmakethebrothWashthehamhockwellundercoldrunningwaterandplaceitinalargepanCoverwithcoldwaterbringtotheboilthenimmediatelydiscardthewaterandrinsethehockoncemoreThiswillremoveimpuritiesthatmightcloudthestocklateronPutthehockbackinthepanfillwithplentyofwatercoveringthehockcompletelyandbringbacktoagoodrollingsimmerAddthebayleafandspicesandsimmerfor2frac12hoursregularlyskimmingoffanyimpuritiesthatrisetothesurfaceTopupwithmorewaterifnecessarytokeepthehockcoveredMakessurethestockissimmeringwellsothetemperatureishighenoughtoextractthegelatinefromthemeat

After2frac12hoursaddthevegetablesandcookforanother2hoursmaintainingahealthyrollingsimmerandtoppinguptheliquidlevelasnecessaryRewardyourpatiencewithalittlesnippetofthemeltinglysofthockonceitisremovedfromitscookingliquorWorththewaitSetthehockasidetocoolalittleandstrainthestockthroughafinesieveintoalargebakingtinndashthewidesurfaceareawillallowittocoolrapidlyWhenthehockiscoolenoughtohandleprisethemeatawayfromthebonesandbreakitintomanageablepiecesLaythesepiecesoutonasimilarshallowtraytocoolquicklythencoverandrefrigerate

Youshouldhaveabout2litresofstockFreezeitin4tubsthenadayortwobeforeyouplantomakethesoupturnout2ofthefrozenblocksandwrapthemin2layersofmuslinPlacetheminasievesetoverabowllargeenoughtoholdthethawedstockthenputtheminthefridgeThegelatineimpuritiesandfatwillstaysolidinthemuslinatfridgetemperaturewhilethestockwillrunclearbelowResisttheurgetosqueezethemuslinitwilldraindryeventuallyThistechniqueyieldsabouthalftheinitialfrozen

weightofstockinfinishedclarifiedstockInourexperiencethisisalittletooconcentratedandwilltakeaboutathirdextrawater

TheeggscanbepoachedinadvanceofservingBringapanofwatertoalightsimmerthenturnofftheheatandleavefor2ndash3minutesThewatercandropaslowas80degCandstillcooktheeggCrackaneggontoalargeslottedspoonandshakeitgentlysothewateryalbumendrainsoffandthetightlyboundalbumenremainsonthespoonGentlydroptheeggintoaramekinandrepeatwiththeremainingeggsputtingeachoneinaseparateramekinSubmergethebaseofeachramekininthehotwaterthenturntheramekinoverandtipouttheeggLettheeggssitundisturbedfor3frac12ndash5minutesdependingonsizeTheaimistocookthewhitewhilekeepingtheyolkrunnyRemovetheeggsusingaslottedspooninthesameordertheywentinandlowerthemintoabowloficedwaterThiswillstopthecookingTheeggscanbepoachedinadvanceandkeptinthefridgefor2days

CommendyourselfasthebuildingofthedishbeginsHeatthebroththroughdilutingittotastewithaboutathirdofitsvolumeinwaterifnecessaryandseasoningwithasplashofcidervinegarandsomesaltTokeepthebrothclearwerecommendreheatingthehockandcookingthechardseparatelyinsimmeringwaterAddthehamtoapanofsaltedwaterandcookatagentlesimmerforaboutaminutethendrainBlanchthechardinthewaterforabout30secondsthendrainwellIfyouhavepoachedtheeggsinadvancereheatthembybringingapanofwatertoasimmerremovingitfromtheheatthendroppingtheeggsinandleavingfor1minuteArrangethehamchardandeggsin4bowlsandgarnishwiththelovageleafandapinchofsaltoneacheggGentlypourthehockbrothoverthemcracksomeblackpepperoverthedishanddresswiththevetchtipsorpeashoots

CaerphillyandCiderWelshRabbit

ThisisastapleatTheEthicureanandthesmellinthemorningastherabbitismadeisintoxicatingServedalongsideapileofMarkrsquossaladleavestheflavoursareacidicsweetsaltyrichandforemostsavouryManyrecipescallfortheinclusionofstoutorporter-stylebeersOursisverymuchaWestCountryaffairandwechoosePerryrsquosMorganSweetcideronaccountofitssweetacidicfruitinessbutanygoodmedium-sweetciderwillsufficeCiderpairsverywellwithCaerphillyWhilebeerwoulddominatethischeesersquoscitrusyandmushroomyearthinessthecidersingsinchorusThesciencebehindusingCaerphillyoramatureCheddarisvery

straightforwardwedonrsquotwantastringyWelshrabbitCheesessuchasEmmentalcontaincaseinmoleculesthatarelinkedbycalciumforminglongfibresndashessentiallythestringinstringycheeseGorwyddrsquoscitrusflavourindicatesahighlevelofaciditywhichremovessomeofthecalciumItsunctuoustexturemeansahighermoisturecontentthatwillseparatecaseinmoleculesAllinallitrsquostheperfectcheeseforrarebitMatureCheddarisagoodalternativeTheripeningenzymesareratherpartialtocaseinandtheydevouritpreventinganylongstring-likefibresforming

SERVES6alargeunslicedwhitetinloaf100gverysoftsaltedbutter(or100gbeefdrippingmelted)150mlmedium-sweetcider100mlsinglecream2tbspvintagecidervinegarsuchasOstlerrsquos2tbspWorcestershiresauce2pinchesofsmokedpaprika250gGorwyddCaerphilly(ifyoucanrsquotgetGorwyddanagedCheddarmakesthebestsubstitute)coarselygrated

2eggyolks(omitifusingCheddar)

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6Cuttheendsoffthewhiteloafandthendividetheloafinto6slicesThethicknessoftheslicesisoneofthefactorsthatmakesthisrabbitsoperfectwithacrunchyexteriorthatgiveswaytoabrilliantlysoftwhiteinteriorUsingapastrybrushlightlybrush

waytoabrilliantlysoftwhiteinteriorUsingapastrybrushlightlybrushtheverysoftbutter(orthemelteddripping)onbothsidesofthebreadPuttheslicesonabakingsheetandbakefor8minutesturningthemoverhalfwaythroughBothsidesshouldbeverylightlygoldenLeaveonawireracktocool

PutthecidercreamvinegarWorcestershiresauceandpaprikainanon-sticksaucepanplaceoveramediumheatandcookstirringregularlyuntilthemixturehasreducedtotheconsistencyofdoublecreamItshouldbeadeepshadeofbrownLowertheheatandaddthecheeseandtheeggyolksifusingStiruntilthecheesehasmeltedthenwhiskthesauceuntilverysmoothandglossyLeavetocoolandthickentoapasteconsistency

SpreadthemixtureedgetoedgeonthetoastedbreadReturnthemtotheovenfor4minutesthenplaceunderahotgrilluntilevenlybrownedEnjoywithageneroushelpingofdressedsaladleavesAsthelocalBristolianswouldsaylsquoGertlushrsquo

daggerRestingbetweenLampeterandAberystwythontheCeredigioncoastlineisGorwyddfarmtheplacewhereone-timearchaeologistToddTrethowandevelopedhisrecipeHebeganhischeesecareerafterlearningfromthegreatWestCountrycheesemakerChrisDuckettFinallyhemovedhiscampervanhomeduringhislsquocheeseapprenticeshiprsquoandreturnedtothefamilyfarmtomakeGorwyddCaerphillyTherearetwodistincttypesofCaerphillythefirstandoldestwasthecheesemadebyhandusingexcessmilkthatwouldhaveotherwiseturnedbadItwasafarmhousecheesetobeeatenafteradayinthefieldsThesecondbringsusbacktoSomersetandtotheCheddarmakerswhodesiredaquick-maturingcheesethatwouldenablehealthycash-flowduringthelongmaturationperiodsoftheirCheddar

SMOKING

HumanshavealwaysbeendrawntothehypnoticandtranquilqualitiesoffireTherearefewthingsthatwelovemorethansittingaroundafirewiththeclosestoffriendsandfamilyputtingtheworldtorightsoverabottleofwineFiresmeansmokeandsmokedfoodwasperhapsaby-product

ofdrying(seealsocuringhere)whenfoodwashungoverfiresandallowedslowlytodrythuspreservingthemeatfromrottingNowadaysfoodsthataretobesmokedundergoapreliminarystepofcuringbeforebeingsmokedSmokingisusedasanadditionalformofpreservationbutnotanessentialoneThesedayssmokingisusedforitsapplicationofflavourTherearetwomethodshotsmokingandcoldsmokingWith

theformerhotsmokefromafireiseitherdirectedintoasealedchamberthathousesfoodorachambercanbedirectlyplacedoversmokinglogsThemaingoalofhotsmokingistocookandpasteurisethemeatTemperaturesinsidethechambersusedtohousethefoodcommonlyreach80ndash110degCColdsmokingasthenamesuggestsusescoldsmoketo

flavourthefoodTraditionalmethodsuseasealedcontainerwithhooksfromwhichtohangfoodhowevertheheatsourceisseparateUsuallythefireishousedinaseparatechamberjoinedtothefoodchamberviasomepipingSmokeescapesfromthefireboxintothepipeandtravelsintothefoodchamberThefurtherthesmoketravelsthemoreitcoolsonitsjourneyThegoalofcoldsmokingwasoriginallytodryfoodGiving

microbeslesswaterinhibitstheirgrowthFoodsusedtobecoldsmokedforlongperiodsoftimeattemperaturessomewherearound20ndash30degChoweverthisposedalargeriskforthesafetyoffoodastheseareperfectconditionsformicrobialactivityCuringsaltswereoftenusedtopreventthisfromhappeningThankstotheinventionofthetrustyfridgetheprimaryreasonforcoldsmoking(preservation)islessimportantandwecannowutiliseitpurelyfortheflavouritadds

utiliseitpurelyfortheflavouritaddsThepointjustbeforewoodignitesistheperfectpointfor

smokingfoodasthisiswhenthetemperatureishighenoughtoremovethemoreunpleasantelementsthatcanbeinthesmokeWoodsmokingatcoolertemperaturescanoftentarnishfoodswithanacridlessfavourableflavourAnyhigherthanthisandthewoodwilligniteSmokingisadelicatebalancingactandtakesskilland

experienceIfyouhaveneverexperimentedwithsmokingbeforethenwerecommendtryingafewofthetechniqueslistedhereBewarnedthatitisanincrediblyaddictivehobbyandonceyoubegintorealisethevariablesanddifferentmethodsitcanbecomeanall-consumingobsessionndashsomethingthatMatthewandIainknowonlytoowellSincetheystartedsmokingwhatevertheycouldlaytheirhandsonthereisoftensomethingsmoulderingawayinthekitchenunderclosescrutinyIaincanoftenbeseenwieldingalargeblowtorchwithaslightlyexhaustedmaniclookinhiseyewhileMatthewtakesafewstepsbackcoveringuphischesthairfromthenakedflameWewillintroduceyoutoafewbasicsmokingmethodsthat

aregreatforthehomesmokerandwewillhighlighttheprosandconsforeachThereareentirebooksdevotedtothisvastandfascinatingsubjectandifthesemethodspiqueyourinterestwecanstronglyrecommendpurchasingone

TincanandsolderingironapproachJackhasexperimentedalotwiththismethodItisoneoftheeasiestandmostaccessibletothehomeuserhoweveritdoeshaveitsdrawbacksFirstthishastobedoneoutsideYouneedatincanthatisnotlacqueredontheinsideoldcondensedmilktinsareperfectPackdrywoodchipsintothecanandatthebaseofthecanonthesidemakeasmallincisionwithascrewdriverndashitshouldbelargeenoughforthetipofasolderingironPlacethetipofthesolderingironintheholeandturnonThenputboththecanandtheironinthebaseofasmallWeber-stylebarbecuewiththebarbecueshelfplacedoverthecanPointthecansothattheopeningisclosetothewallofthebarbecueandawayfromthemeatPlacethefoodyouwanttosmokeonthewireshelfon

themeatPlacethefoodyouwanttosmokeonthewireshelfontheoppositesidetothecanandpoponthelidClosealloftheventsonthebarbecueIfyouaresmokingmeatorfishwerecommenddoingitinhalf-hourincrementsYoucancheckontheinternaltemperatureofthebarbecuewithathermometerTakethemeatouttryalittleandseewhatyouthinkIfyouwantmoresmokethenplacebackinforanother30minutesFoodsthatneedtobecookedbeforetheycanbeeaten(raw

meatfishetc)shouldneverbesmokedformorethanfourhoursbutthenitisveryunlikelythatsmallcutsofmeatorfishwillrequirethislengthofsmokinginanycaseIfsmokingthesetypesoffoodsplacealargebowloficeunderthewirerackontheoppositesidetothecandirectlyunderthefoodstuffThiswillcoolthesmokedownsomemoreIfsmokingforlongperiodsoftimethechipsinthetincanwillneedreplacingevery6ndash8hourstoensureyougetthebestfromthistechniqueSomepeopleadvocatetheuseofacombinationofdampand

drywoodchipsbutwewouldstronglyrecommendifusingthismethodthatyouuseonlydrychipsEventhismethoddoesnotachievehighenoughtemperaturestoburnthemaincarcinogeniccomponentsofsmokeandcombiningdampwoodlowersthepyrolysistemperature(thetemperatureatwhichmoleculesinthewoodarebrokendown)andresultsinevenmoreacridandacidiccomponentsflavouringthefoodIfyouareattemptingthismethodsetupthebarbecuecloseto

adoorwayoronapatioTheoptimumtimeforsmokinglikethisisduringwinterasthecoolertemperaturesmeansaferconditionsIfsmokingonasunnydaythenkeepwellshadedThisisafairlyexperimentalapproachandonethatnottoomanypeopleknowaboutConsideringhoweasyitiswersquodliketogetpeoplehookedonsmokingthroughthesebasictechniquesbeforeencouragingfurtherexperimentationwithsomeofthetechniquesoverleaf

BlowtorchandicemethodAgainthisispracticalforthehomesmokerandallowsplentyofscopeforexperimentationInasmall-to-medium-sizedliddedroastingtrayplacewoodchipsorsawdustononesideofthebaseOntheoppositesideofthetrayplaceabowloficeIgnitethechipsordustthoroughlyusingablowtorchCulinaryblowtorcheswillnotcutthemustardonthisoneastheydonotgiveoffenoughheatyouwillneedaplumberrsquosone(askforacopperbrazingtorchatyourlocalplumbingsupplier)BesurenottobuyatorchthatrunsoffMAPPGasthesecontainadangeroustypeoffuelthatisnotsuitedforculinaryuseStartthewoodsmoulderingbeforeplacingawirerackontop

withthefoodonthencoveringwiththelidWeighdownthelidifitdoesnotformatightsealandleavefor30minutesRemovefromthesmokerandtestthefoodtoseeifitissmokyenoughforyourtasteYoucanalsousedifferenttypesofwoodforthismethodThe

boysinthekitchenhaveexperimentedwithsmokingbutterwithfreshbayleavesNotallofourexperimentshavebeensuccessfulndashinfactsomehavebeenappallingbutyouneverknowuntilyoutryWhilethismethoddoesachieveahottertemperaturethanthetincanitisstillnotaseffectiveatburningcarcinogensandacridcomponentsofsmokeassomeotherslightlymorecomplextechniques

HotpanmethodAlthoughthisessentiallyhotsmokesyourfoodyoucouldtrycombiningitwiththeprevioustechniquendashitsavesbuyinga

combiningitwiththeprevioustechniquendashitsavesbuyingablowtorchHeatupalargepanuntilsmokinghotAddathinlayerofwoodchipsandgetthemsmokingtooDecantthechipsintooneendofaliddedroastingtraywithabowloficeattheotherendFollowingtheremainingstepsforthepreviousmethod

SmokegunmethodAsmokegunisahand-helddevicethathousesasmallchambersimilartothatofasmokingpipeandcontainsafanYouloadthechamberwithsawdustorwoodchipslightthemandthenturnthefanonThefanpullsairthroughthechamberandfeedsoxygentothefireComingoutofthesmokegunisarubbertubethatallowsyoutodirectwhereyouwantthesmoketogoThismethodforthehomeuserisincrediblyeffectivePackthebaseofthechamberwithsawdustandlightuntilsmoulderingWhensmoulderingtopwithwoodchipsofyourchoiceandlightthewoodchipsWhileyoudothisturnthefanonThesmokefromthewoodpassesthroughahotbaselayerofsawdustthatburnsanyacridcomponentsofthesmokeWhatyouareleftwithisessentiallylsquogoodsmokersquothatwillflavouryourfoodinapositivewayTheonlycompanyweknowofthatmanufacturesasmokegunisPolyScienceSmokegunsretailaroundthepound50markandareavailableonlineUltimatelyexperimentingwithfoodandtechniquesshouldbe

funThecarcinogenicnatureofsmokehoweveritcomesisnothealthytohumanbeingssoweadvisetakingcareandlimitingtheamountsofsmokedfoodsyoueatThatsaidsometrulyspectacularflavourscanbeachievedandasalwaysweurgeyoutogetcreativelearnthebasicsandthenplayYoumayjuststumbleacrossacombinationortechniquethatshapesthefutureofcooking

SmokedChipotleChillies

ThechipotlechilliisajalapentildeothathasbeenlefttoripenontheplantitisthensmokedanddriedWealldevelopedaloveforthischillithroughPaucirclawhoregularlyreceivesdriedpackagesofthemfromMexicoHergrandmotherrsquoschipotlepickleisabsolutelyincredibleWesmokethewholechillieswiththeseedsinbutyoucantakethemoutifyoupreferamildersauce

20jalapentildeochillies(oranytypeofripechilli)

Werecommendusingabout15kgoffinewoodchipsndashoakorapplearegoodbutavoidresinouswoodsastheywilltainttheflavour

WhenyouarereadytosmokebeginbywashingthejalapentildeosFollowtheinstructionsforthetincanandsolderingironsmokingmethodonhereArrangethejalapentildeosontheoppositesidetothesmokingcanandthenclosethebarbecuelidIdeallyyouwanttosmokethejalapentildeosfor16hoursuntildarkandcrispEveryfewhourscheckthelevelofwoodinthecanandtopupasappropriateYoucanalsofinishdryingthechilliesinafanovenonabout50degCwiththedoorslightlyajarfan-assistedovensareperfectforthistask(Pleaseconsultoperatinginstructionsndashdisclaimer)StorethecooledsmokedchilliesinanairtightcontainerinacooldryplaceThechilliescanberehydratedinhotwatertheflavourisverystrongsolittleisneeded

SmokedRoeDeerLoinwithWildRocketClampedCarrotsHoneyedWalnutsandWoodSorrel

CuringtheloinmakesthemostofthispreciouscutWealsocoldsmokeitaddingextracomplexitytotheendresultThisstagecanbeleftoutifyoupreferEitherwayyouneedtopreparetheloinwellinadvanceasithastositinthecureforfivedaysTheoakchipsimpartaflavourthatcomplementstheblackcardamoma

spicethattastessmokedbecausethepodsaredriedoveropenflamesThesweetwalnutsbalancethesavourymeatWoodsorrelgrowsincarpetsonthewoodlandfloorandhasacitrustangthataddsacidityItalsogrowsinthedeerrsquoshabitatmakingitaveryfittingadditionindeed

SERVES4WITHPLENTYOFSPARELOINFORTHELARDER

1roedeerloinweighing1kgsilvermembraneremoved(askyourbutchertodothisforyou)

2handfulsofoakchipsforsmoking(orusethesmokegunmethodonhere)200gwildrocketalittlecidervinegar50gHoneyedWalnuts(seehere)2tablespoonswoodsorrel(orcultivatedsorrel)frac12tspfinelychoppedcrushedjuniperberries

FORTHECURE

6staranise6blackcardamompods2tbspjuniperberries1tbspblackpeppercorns35gfineseasalt15gdarkmuscovadosugar

FORTHECARROTANDBLACKCARDAMOMPUREacuteE

4blackcardamompods(seektheseoutinAsiansupermarketsasthesmokinessisveryvaluabletothechef)

200gcarrots(forclampedcarrotsseeopposite)sliced1ndash2tbsphoneyseasalt

Blitzalltheingredientsforthecuretogetherinafoodprocessororspice

BlitzalltheingredientsforthecuretogetherinafoodprocessororspicegrinderLaytheroeloinonalargepieceofclingfilmcoverwiththecuremixtureandrubitinthoroughlyleavingitinanevencoatingTightlywraptheloinintheclingfilmandplaceinthefridgefor5daysturningiteverydayorso

RemovetheloinfromthecuremixandrinseunderacoldtapmakingsureyouwashoffallthespicesHangthemeatinawarmwell-ventilatedarea(awarmpartofthekitchenorintheairingcupboardwilldo)for12hoursoruntilitiscompletelydrytothetouchndashatemperatureof25degCisidealsoadjustthetimeyouhangthemeataccordingly

InthemeantimeprepareyoursmokingboxfollowingtheBlowtorchandIcemethodonhere

PlacetheoakchipstoonesideofthebakingtrayOntheoppositesideplaceabowloficewithawirerackstooddirectlyaboveitPlacetheloinontherackUsingablowtorchheatthechipsstirringwithametalspoontoheatthemevenlyWhenthechipsareproperlyonfirecoverwiththefoilandweightdowntopreventsmokeescapingLeavefor30minutesThetimethattheloinsitsinsmokeisavariablethatcanbeplayedwithIfyoupreferasmokierflavourthenrepeattheprocesswithfreshwoodchipsOnceyouhavesmokedthemeattoyoursatisfactionremovefromthesmokerandchilluntilneeded

ForthecarrotandblackcardamompureacuteehalffillapanwithwateraddthecardamompodsandbringtoasimmerPutthecarrotsinasteamerbasketplaceontopofthepanthencoverandsteamfor35minutesuntilthecarrotsareverytenderindeedPureacuteeinablenderorfoodprocessorMixinthehoneyandsalttotasterememberingthatthisisthesweetcomponentofthisdishThinthepureacuteewithalittleofthesteamingliquorandblendagaintogiveavelvetytextureLeavetocoolthenchilluntilrequired

SlicetheroeloinfinelyatanangletomaximisethelengthofsliceDresstherocketincidervinegaralonethecarrotpureacuteewillprovideamplemoistureandsweetnesssonooilisrequiredPlacetherocketon4servingplatesandarrangetheroeloinwalnutsandsorrelontopthendotteaspoonsofthesmokedandhoneyedcarrotpureacuteethroughoutSprinklethejuniperberriesontoptofinishthissaporificdish

ontoptofinishthissaporificdish

WOODSORREL

OxalisAcetosellaOldEnglishAlleluiaThisdelicate-lookingplanthasaheart-shapedleafwithafolddownthecentrethesecordateleavesoccuringroupsofthreeFlowersappeararoundApriltoMaytheyarelilaccolouredwithdarkerveinsofthesamecolourAsthesundisappearswoodsorrelrsquosamorousleavesfoldtogethertomakeasmalltentshapeAtfirstlighttheyopenonceagainWeareluckytohaveseveralgoodspotsintheWestCountrywherewoodsorrelcanbefoundmoistandshadyplacesintypicallydeciduouswoodsWoodsorrellikestoshelterundermossandbrackenortheoddfallenlogItisalmostlemoninflavourandtheoxalicaciditcontainshastheeffectofstimulatingthesalivatoryglandsDonotpicktherootbutmakesureyoueatthewholestalkaswebelieveittobebettertastingthantheleafitself

CLAMPEDVEGETABLES

Clampingisanage-oldmethodofpreservationItsavestheautumncropofrootvegetablesandhasthebenefitofincreasingflavourandnutrientcontentAsanexamplecarrotswillincreasetheirvitaminAduringsixmonthsofstoringawayfromheatand

lightChefsareeversofondoftheseclampedrootsfortworeasonsTheincreaseinflavourandsweetnessisobviousbutmostimportantlytheyhavevegetablestomakevaluablestocks

throughthemonthsofFebruarytoMay

ToclampcarrotsbeetrootsparsnipsturnipsswedeceleriackohlrabiorpotatoesafewimportantstepsneedbefollowedYou

willneedafrost-freeshedorconcreteflooredgaragesomewoodentraysandagoodquantityofdampsandHarvestby

carefullyforkinguptherootsonadrydayinOctoberPickoutthelargerthick-coredandunblemishedrootsandtrimbackonlytheleavesInthecaseofbeetroottwisttheleavesratherthancuttopreventlsquobleedingrsquoanddonrsquotcutbackanygreencarrottopsastheyneedtoremainwholeRemoveanysoil(rubbingwithsandiseffective)andsendanydamagedorbrokenspecimenstothekitchenpost-hasteLaysandintothewoodentrayandplacetherootsinlayerstessellatingbutnottouchingCoverwithsandandrepeatuntilallarestoredUncovertherootsasneeded

takingcaretocoveranyremainingonesagainAcertainamountofcarrotscanbeleftinthegrounduntilspringpromptstheirgrowthagainbutthereisoftentherisktheymayturnwoodyandcrackIfyourcropwarrantsleavinginthegroundthen

coverwellwithstrawtoeasetheirliftingduringfrostsGiventhebenefitsforflavourandmineralcontentclampingisthebetter

option

HUNTINGDEERWITHALAN

WeregularlystalkwithourfriendAlanHeisahorticulturistacountrymanhereadsthelandscapeandwhispersthenamesofthethingsthatgrowcrawlrunandsingHehasawonderfullyclippedaccentlsquoJackrsquohewillsaylsquoLetrsquosconcentrateonthefirstcourseshallwersquoasthesightofStGeorgersquosmushroomsoftencausesdistractionsonaspringstalkDeeraremostactiveduringdawnandduskmeaningearly

startsandlatefinishesforthestalkerMorningsprovideacrystallinebeautyaswewalkthroughthelastfewfrostsoftheyearEveningsgiveusetherealsunsetsandthechancetowatchthelandsettledownforthenightAllthedeerinourareaareroeTheyareanativeBritishspecies(OldEnglishRaha)andare

spreadwidelyacrossBritainParticularlyinthesouthofEnglandthesedeerwerethoughttohavebeenallbutwipedoutduringtheMiddleAgesTheyarefoundpredominantlyinsmallgroupsoralonealthoughlargergroupswillfeedtogetherduringthewintermonthsRoewillfeedonberriesleavesgrassandyoungshootsTheyparticularlylikeyoungbrambleshootsandnewlycoppicedwoodlandEveninthefailinglightAlanrsquosgrinisperceptibleHenodsto

thesilhouetteofaroebuckasittracestheskylinewithitspin-likelegsitsearsflickingindependentlyWemustwaitforittodisappearoverthebrowofthehillhopingthatitwillprovideaclearshotwithasafebackstopontheothersideAtthistimeroedeerlookprettyscruffytheirwinterpelageisgivingwaytotheirsummercoatofchestnutredMerlinthelabradorisunconcernedbyourpotentialquarrypreferringtopushherlargeheadintothenearestpalmforascratchTheroebuckhassteppeddownfromtheskylineandhas

presenteditselfbroadsidewithasafebackstopforashotFromourpositionbodiespressedagainstthegroundwecanseethebuckleanforwardandtastetheairitslipsseekingawarningscentAlanstopsforaninstanttakesaimandslipsthesafetycatchbackBeforethebuckhasachancetoturnthereisabanganditfallstotheground

CurdCheeseCucumberFlatBeanAniseedandSesame

AccordingtotheBritishCucumberGrowersAssociationifallthecucumbersgrownintheBritishseasonwerelaidendtoendtheywouldgoalmostrightroundtheworldYetdespitethegreatnumberavailabletousaswithalotoffruitandvegetablesmostcucumbersareflowninfromEuropeorbeyondItseemsashamewhentherealityisthattheyarerelativelyeasytogrowintheUKHavingsaidthatgrowingcucumberscommerciallytakesalotofskillThecropsaresusceptibletodamagefrompestsmakingthemdifficulttogroworganicallyTheorganiccucumberswegetcomefromTheCommunityFarmwheretheteamensuresthatwearerarelyshortofseasonalproduceTheirlocationinChewMagnajust7milesawayisverygoodnewsforusOtherthanaquickcucumberpickleandadressingthissaladismadeto

orderhighlightingthewayfreshproduceatitsbestmarksthestartofaproductivesummerHerewemakeuseofcucumberandflatbeansbothofwhichgrowsplendidlyearlyinourglasshousesThesewillbeavailableforthosegrowingoutdoorsinlatespringtoearlysummerTheaniseeddressingworksharmoniouslywiththejuicycucumberanddelightfullysweetflatbeans

SERVES4100gflatbeanschopped1tspsesameseeds3youngcucumbers1tspaniseed(orfennelseeds)100mlcidervinegar100gcastersugar8tbspewersquoscurd(orgoatrsquoscurdorafreshyoungcheese)50gcheeserindtheolderanddrierthebetterfinelygrated(therindofunwaxedewersquosmilkcheeseisideal)

fineseasalt12borageflowersandafewwatercressleavestogarnish

FORTHEWATERCRESSDRESSING

70mlbuttermilk(ifunavailablestir1tspvinegarinto65mlmilkandleavefor5minutes)

35gmayonnaise(seePaprikaMayonnaiseonhereifyouwouldliketomakeitfromscratchomittingthepaprika)abunchofwatercressstalks

mustardpowderseasalt

Blanchtheflatbeansinfast-boilingsaltedwaterfor2minutesuntiljusttenderthendrainandleaveinicedwaterToastthesesameseedsinadryfryingpantilltheyturngoldenthentipthemoutofthepanontoaplatetopreventburningCutonecucumberinto5mmdiceandsprinkleliberallywithsaltLeavetodraininasievefor20ndash30minutestogivethefinishedpickleacrunchHeattheaniseedinadrypantillitspitsandcracklesTakethepanofftheheatcarefullyaddthevinegarandthenstirinthesugaruntildissolvedAllowthistocoolsomewhatwhileyourinsethesaltfromthecubedcucumberPutthecubesinabowlandcoverwiththewarmvinegarmixtureLeavetocoolThiswillkeepinthefridgefor5daysshouldyouchoosetomakeitinadvance

TomakethedressingputalltheingredientsinablenderkeepingbackafewofthewatercressstalksandpulseuntilthestalksareveryfinelychoppedThemixtureshouldbenothickerthansinglecreamandabeautifulpalegreencolourTasteandaddmoreofthestalksshouldyouwanttoincreasethatfreshgreenpeppertastefromthemustardoilwithinSeasonwithsaltandsetaside

Trimtheendsand2longsidesfromtheother2cucumbersandpeelintostripswithaY-shapedvegetablepeelerndashoronamandolineshouldyouwantsuper-tidyslicesLaytheseoneachservingplatecurlingthestripsoveranddresswithalittlefineseasaltSpoonscoopsofewersquoscurdandrolltheminthegratedcheeserindPlacetheseamongstthestripsofcucumberAddafewcubesofpickledcucumberandateaspoonoftheaniseedmarinadetoeachplateScattertheflatbeansovertheplatesandthenspoonoverthewatercressdressingFinishwiththedelicateblueborageflowersafewsmallwatercressleavesandthetoastedsesameseedsMarvellouscoloursandtidyonthetastebuds

CrabSaladwithNewPotatoesPickledCarrotand

SmokedPaprikaMayonnaise

WehaveoftenwonderedwhycrabmeatisnotmorepopularinBritainnowadaysMostcrabcaughtinBritishwatersissentstraighttoEuropewhereitisinhighdemandPerhapswesimplydonrsquotknowhowtocookthemlessstillhowtoeatthemAdmittedlypreparingawholecrabtakespracticeandcanbeamessyandtime-consumingaffairHoweverifyousurroundyourselfwithagroupoffriendsfurnishyourselveswithagoodloafofbreadandacoupleofbeveragespreferablyofthealcoholicvarietyyouwillseehowmuchfunitistopractiseThenativebrowncrabisdeliciousandthespidercrabrankshigherthanlobsterintasteformanyusincludedItistrulyadoredinSpaincommandingthehighestshellfishpricesIfyouneedmoregoodreasonstoeatBritishcrabmeatrememberthatitisrelativelyinexpensiveandhasbettersustainabilitycredentialsthanmostfishyoufindinthesupermarketThequantitiesgivenforthesmokedpaprikamayonnaisemakemorethan

youneedforthisrecipebutitisveryversatileServeitwithothersaladssmokedfishandasageneralsubstituteforboughtmayonnaiseWeguaranteethatittopsanythingyoucanbuyinashop

SERVES4200gnewpotatoesscrubbedcleanandcutinto5cmchunks1livebrowncrabor2livespidercrabs200gspringsaladleaves80mlTheEthicureanSaladDressing(seehere)afewpinchesofgroundmacebronzedillorfennelfronds100gPickledCarrots(seehere)afewedibleflowers(optional)

FORTHESMOKEDPAPRIKAMAYONNAISE

1largefree-rangeeggyolkfrac12tbsphoneyfrac12tbspDijonmustardfrac12tbspsmokedpaprika

1tspfineseasaltabout450mlrapeseedoil1tbspcidervinegar

FirstmakethemayonnaiseUsingastickblenderelectricwhiskorfreestandingelectricmixercombinetheeggyolkhoneymustardpaprikaandsaltWhiskonfullspeedfor30secondsoruntilsmoothWiththewhiskorblenderrunningonfullspeedveryslowlystartaddingtheoilAfterathirdoftheoilhasbeenmixedinaddthevinegarthencontinueinthesamefashionwiththerestoftheoilBesuretopourinaveryfinesteadystreamtobeginwithifyouaddtoomuchoilearlyonthemayonnaisewillsplitAstheoilisbeingincorporatedthemayonnaiseshouldstarttothickentoathickorangey-redemulsion(youmaynotneedalltheoil)Checkthetasteandseasonwithmoresaltandvinegarifnecessary

Cookthepotatoesinboilingsaltedwateruntiltenderthendrainandleavetocool

CookandpreparethecrabsasdescribedoverleafPlacesomeofthesaladleaveson4servingplateswiththepotatoesAddmoreleavesintertwiningthemwiththecrabmeatDresseachlayerasyougowithsaladdressingwhiletryingtomaintainheightinthedishtokeepitlookingattractiveTheclawsofthecrablookgreatwhenextractedwholesocombinethesewiththeflakedwhitecrabmeatforextravisualappealSpoononasmuchofthesmokedpaprikamayonnaiseasyouwishthenfinishwithafewpinchesofmacethebronzedillorfennelfrondspickledcarrotsandanyedibleflowersyoumayhaveServeimmediately

PREPARINGCRAB

HowtocookacrabThefirststepincookingacrabisknowinghowtokillit

humanelyOurheadchefMatthewwhoworkedformanyyearsasafishmongerisconvincedthattheonlywaytodothisistoputthecrabinthefreezerfor2hoursorsofirstTheeffectistonumbthecrabandensurethatthepainisminimisedwhenitiskilledWhenyoutakethecraboutofthefreezerturnitonitsbackliftthetailawayandlocatethedimplerightinitscentreTakeasharpskewerorothersharpthinimplementandpushitthroughthedimplethenasitmeetsthetopshellmoveitfromsidetosideDothesamebetweenthecrabrsquoseyespushingthe

skewerthroughandeasingitfromsidetoside

ThecrabshouldbecookedimmediatelyafterkillingItwillneed15minutesperkilograminalargepanofwell-saltedboiling

waterndashweallowatablespoonofsaltperlitreIfyouarecookingtwocrabscalculatethetimebasedontheirindividualratherthan

combinedweight

Howtoprepareacookedcrab1Turnthecrabonitsbackandtwistoffitslegsandclaws

2SeparatethetopshellfromthebottomshellbyplacingyourfingerunderthetopofitstailPullbothshellsapartusinga

heavyspoontocrackalongthelinethatisthereifitdoesnrsquotcomeawayeasily

awayeasily

3NowdonrsquotbeputoffbywhatyouseewhentheshellisfullyopenYouwillneedtodoabitoftidyingupbeforeyouareabletoappreciatethefullpotentialofthiscrustaceanStartbygettingridofthepointygreypiecesofmeatintheshell(calleddead

manrsquosfingers)andthebonybitsTheseareallinedibleYouwillneedtoremovethestomachsacjustbehindtheeyesandmouthtooThecreamybrownmeattoeithersideoftheheadisfor

somethetastiestandmostsupremelyediblesodonrsquotdiscardit

4UsingaskewerorsometweezersyounowneedtoremovethewhitemeatfromthemiddlepartofthebodyThisiswherethefirstglassofyourbeverageofchoicewillcomeinhandyastheprocessdoestakesometimeSopouryourselfadrinkandstartbycuttingthebodyintwosoitiseasiertoaccessthemeatinsideCarefullyremoveallthewhitemeatfromtheshellWhatmakesthistaskquitelaboriousisthatsomeofthedesirablewhite

meatisattachedtohardbonysectionsanditisdifficulttodifferentiatebetweenthetwoBepatient

5FinallycracktheclawsopenDIYtoolswillprobablybemoreeffectivethankitchenutensilsherendashasmallhammerworkswelloryoucouldtrythebackofaheavyknifeExtractasmuchwhitemeataspossiblewithyourtweezersorskeweranddonrsquotforgettoopenthewholeoftheclawThereismuchpreciousmeatinthelowerpartsoftheclawwhichisoftenforgottenaboutDothesamewiththelegsWithpracticethewholeprocesswilltake

youlessandlesstimeandweguaranteeitwillneverceasetobeenjoyable

SpringRadisheswithAnchovyCregravemeFraicircche

ThissimpleanchovydippairsbeautifullywithfreshradishesWeliketositaroundeatingthisinthegardenonasunnyspringeveningwhiledrinkingaglassofLimney(afantasticorganicwineproducedinSussex)andenjoyingthefirstrealwarmthoftheyearWhatrsquosgreataboutradishesisthatastheweatherbeginstowarmsodoestheirinherentfiery-pepperiness

SERVES4ndash62bunchesofradishes

FORTHEANCHOVYCREgraveMEFRAIcircCHE

alittlerapeseedorgroundnutoil1springonionfinelysliced

1springonionfinelysliced1headofwetgarlicfinelysliced(or2clovesofdriedgarlic)35gmarinatedwhiteanchovyfilletsfinelychopped75mlcregravemefraicirccheseasaltandblackpepper

HeatasplashofoilinasmallfryingpanaddthespringonionandgarlicandfryoveramediumheatuntilsoftAddtheanchoviesandcookforacouplemoreminutesTransferthemixturetoasmallbowlandleavetocoolStirinthecregravemefraicirccheandseasontotaste

ThoroughlycleantheradishesandtheirleaveskeepingtheleavesattachedHoldingtheleavesallowsyoutodiptheradishesintotheanchovysaucebeforebitingthemcleanofftheirgreeneryTherearefewsimplerormoredeliciouswaystoenjoythesepepperydelights

TroutwithKelpandShiitakeMushroomStockRiceFlatBeansandSeaKale

FindingthebestlocalingredientsisoneofthemostrewardingtasksforusatTheEthicureanSoweweredelightedwhenTessaTrickspartoftheEthicureanfamilydescribedhowcommittedherfatherwastofishinginthelocalareaHerfamilyrsquosfreezerwewereinformedwasalwaysuptomaximumcapacitywithrainboworbrowntroutcaughtinthenearbyChewValleyorBlagdonLakesItwasnosurprisetohearthattheyreferredtotroutaslsquotheTrickrsquosfamilycurrencyrsquoCharlieTricksstartedfishingattheageof10intheRiverYeoHenowpreferstofishatthebanksofthelakeashecanmovearoundandchoosehisspotBankfishingismoreofachallengebutthisaddstotheexcitementwhenyoudoeventuallysucceedincatchingsomethingworthcookingTheTrickseattroutatleastonceaweekandhavedevelopedan

impressivecatalogueofrecipesovertheyearsItwasourtasktoofferthemsomethingnewthatwouldfitwithourmenuThisreciperequirestwoJapanese-stylestockswhichneedpreparingadayinadvanceUnlikeEuropeanstockswhichoftenrequirelongcookingJapanesestocksarequicklukewarm-waterpreparationsthatuseumami-richingredientssuchasmushroomsdriedfishandseaweeds(seehereformoreaboutlsquoumamirsquo)ThesimplicityfreshnessandseasonalityofJapanesefoodarequalitiesthatweoftentrytoreplicateKelpisfrequentlyusedinJapanesestocksandinthisinstanceweusednativekelpdriedinaverylowovenYoushouldbeabletofindkelplabelledaskombuinorientalmarketsandhealthfoodstoresWhenCharlieandhisfamilytriedthisdishweworriedthatthedelicate

ingredientsaccompanyingthefishwouldnotstanduptoitbutthetablewasalivewithtalkofribonucleotidesinmushroomsguanylatecompoundsinumamiandseaweedstocksBytheendoftheirdinnertheTrickswerecommittedtoattemptingbriningathome

SERVES4300gbasmatirice40gseasalt1rainbowtroutweighing800gndash1kgfilletedwithpinbonesremoved6tbspmirin(ricewine)

6tbspmirin(ricewine)100gonionsfinelydiced50gceleriacfinelydiced50gwhitemushroomsfinelydiced2staranise1tspfennelseeds200gflatbeanstrimmedandcutinto2cmslices500gseakale(orkale)stalksremovedcutinto3cmstrips

FORTHEMUSHROOMSTOCK

50gdriedwholeshiitakemushrooms(theready-sliceddriedonesaremuchstrongersoreduceto10gifthatiswhatyouhave)FORTHEKELPSTOCK

20gdriedkelp(kombu)

Firstpreparethestocks(seeingredientsoverleaf)Forthemushroomstockwashthedriedshiitakethensoakin600mlcoldwaterovernightinaglassormetalbowlDonrsquotworryifyourkitchensmellsasifthereisagasleakthepungentshiitakewillbethecauseThefollowingdaystrainthestockthroughapieceofmuslinandchill

RinsethedriedkelpofanysandorresidueinabowlofcoldwaterBebriefsoasnottoloseitsconcentratedflavourPut12litreswaterinasaucepansetitoveralowheatandlookoutfortinybubblesappearingonthebaseofthepanTurnofftheheataddthekelpthencoverthepanandleaveforanhourswitchingtheheatonagainfor3minuteshalfwaythroughtomaintainthetemperatureIfyouhaveathermometerthetemperatureshouldholdcloseto60degCAnythinghigherwillreleasesulphurcompoundsiodineandaldehydesfromthekelpwhichwilltaintthesweetanddelicatestockStrainthestockthroughmuslinleavetocoolthenchill

Combinethe2stocksthenmeasureout750mlSetbothportionsofstockaside

WashthericeinasieveunderplentyofcoldrunningwaterTheaimistoremoveallthestarchsokeepgoinguntilthewaterrunscompletelyclearThismaytake10minutesormorebutgivesperfectriceeverytimeifthisstepisfollowedStirthericerubbingitgentlywithyourfingertipstoloosen

stepisfollowedStirthericerubbingitgentlywithyourfingertipstoloosenanyremainingstarchthenleavetodrainBasmatiwillabsorboneandaquartertimesitsweightinwaterduringcookingEvenifyoudonrsquotpossessaricesteamerbeautifulfluffyricecanbeachievedwithasaucepanandwell-fittinglidPutthedrainedriceintoafairlywidepanadd375mlwaterthencoverandsetaside

Tomakeabrineaddthe40gseasalttothe750mlmixedstockandstiruntilithasdissolvedCutthetroutfilletsinto4evenportionspersideAddthesetothebrineandrefrigerateforprecisely20minutesthendrainInthemeantimeheattheremainingstocktoasimmerandthentasteitItwillbeeversosubtleanddelicatebutyourtonguewillregistersomethingspecificsomethingcomplexyethardtopindownTheelusiveumamitastetheessenceofJapanesecookingispresentyetverydelicateAddthemirinandthenaddsaltapinchatatimeTasteagainandnoticehowthesweetnessandsalthaveaddeddepthSeasongraduallyuntilyouarepleasedwiththebalance

PutthepanofriceoverahighheatandwatchforittocometotheboilThemomentitdoesaddateaspoonofsaltandstirCoverthepantightlyandreducetheheattolowCookfor10minutesresistingthetemptationtopeerintothepanTheideaistotrytomimicaricesteamersothesteamneedstobetrappedbythelidAfter10minutesturntheheatoffbutleavethelidonforafurther10minutesContinuetoresistthetemptationtopeerin

Heattheovento120degCGasMarkfrac12BoilakettleandpourthewaterintoadeepbakingtraytoadepththatwillcoverthefishfilletscomfortablyAddtheonionsceleriacmushroomsstaranisefennelseedsandthedrainedfishfilletsPlaceintheovenandleavefor10minutes

Blanchtheflatbeansinapanofboilingsaltedwaterfor2minutesandtheseakaleinaseparatepanfor1minutethendrainRunaforkoverthericetoloosentheperfectlycookedfluffygrainsthendivideitbetween4servingbowlsandarrangethegreensarounditThefishwillbedelicatelypoachedbythispointPutthefishfilletsontopofthericeandpourtheclearstockaroundtheoutsideAfive-stagepalatepleaserforcertain

FRESHWATERFISH

Beingisland-dwellerswehavebeenexposedtomorewaterwaysthanmanyotherplacesaroundtheworldandwehavehadthetimeandopportunitytodevelopbetterfishingpracticesInrecentyearsfreshwaterfishhasbeenlabelledashavinganunsavourymuddyqualitytoitThisisnotatotallyunfoundedcommentespeciallyifthefishcomesfromhighsiltcontentwatersthatarerelativelystagnantGiventhestrainthatthefishingindustryisimposingonthemarineenvironmentthoughfreshwaterfishingisagoodsustainablealternativeMoreovernotallfreshwaterfishtastemuddyTroutinseasonforexampledoesnotIfcaughtshortlybeforeorafteritsbreedingperiodthefisharefullofmiltoreggswhichwillmakethemdeceptivelylargerinappearanceandcontributetothatlsquomuddyrsquoorlsquogrittyrsquotasteBewarned

Welikethefactthatthetroutwehaveonourmenucomesfromamanwhohasbeenfishinginthelocalareaforover50yearsWeareconvincedthathisexperienceandknowledgetricklesdowninsomeformorotherandleadstoabetterdishWhenweaskedhimhowfishinginthelocalareahadchangedovertheyearshebelievedthebiggestdifferencetobeintheflyvariationFortyyearsagolargenumbersofbigredsedgeflieswhichthetroutdevouredwerecommonlyseeninmidsummerNowadayssedgesaremuchsmallersothetroutismoredifficulttoenticeNodoubtthisaddstothechallengeandmakesitevenmoreworthwhiletogetacatch

GoatMeatballsMashLovageButterandMustardGreens

BeforewefoundtheWalledGardenweusuallyategoatrsquosmeatonlyatStPaulrsquosCarnivalinthecentreofBristolTherulewasthatwewouldlocatethestallswiththelongestqueuesanddevourasmanyCaribbeancurriesasnecessaryinourquesttofindthebestItwasatthiscalypso-infusedeventthatwehadourannualintakeofsucculentgoatrsquosmeatGoatrsquosmeatwascommonplaceintheUKuntilthemid-seventeenth

centuryNowmostofitisimportedfromeasternEuropeoffthebackofthedairyindustrythereandisrarelyfreerangeThemeatiscertainlyflavoursomebutittendstobetoughwhichmeansthatslowcookingisessentialFromanethicalpointofviewusingwhatwouldotherwisebeaby-productofthedairyindustrymakesperfectsenseManyfarmersseethemalekidsasadrainontheirresourcesOncetheyareborntheyservenopurposesotheyhavetobekilledThisseemsaterriblewasteconsideringtheenergydevotedtobreedingthemOurgoatrsquosmeatsupplierisCabritobasednearWellington(seealsoourCheeseboardhere)ItdoesnotbreedgoatsspecificallytosellonInsteaditbuysthebilliesfromsmall-scalefarmersraisesthemasfree-rangemeatandsellsthemtorestaurantsItrsquosworthaskingyourlocalbutcherwhethertheycantrackdownsomeBritishgoatrsquosmeatWehavenodoubtthatitwillbegintobecomemorepopularandmoreeasilyavailablesoonItwouldbefantasticifin50yearstimeafoodhistorianwroteofthereturnofgoatrsquosmeattotheBritishdietinthefirstpartofthetwenty-firstcenturyTheresponsewehavehadfromcustomerstothisdishhasbeen

overwhelmingthoughnotsurprisingthemeatissucculentandsweetitishighinproteinandironandcontainslessfatthanporkbeeforlambWefindthatmostpeopleareintriguedbythesemeatballsandwanttoknowmoreaboutgoatrsquosmeat

SERVES450gbread1frac12tspsalt1tsplovageseeds(ifnotavailableomitthesaltanduse1frac12tspcelerysalt)1tspcoarselygroundblackpepper

1tspcoarselygroundblackpepperfrac12tspdriedchilliflakes1tspcuminseeds550ggoatrsquosmeatfinelyminced1largeegglightlybeatenrapeseedoil50gonionfinelydiced25gcarrotslicedintohalfmoons25gceleriacfinelydiced250mlbrownchickenstock(seehere)200mlmedium-sweetciderabunchoflargemustardgreenscutintostrips2ndash3cmwidefrac12tspEnglishmustardValorPotatoMash(seehere)toserveseasalt

FORTHELOVAGEBUTTER

100mlbrownchickenstock(seehere)2tsplovageseeds(orahandfuloflovageleaves)75mlwhitewine3eggyolks185gcoldunsaltedbuttercutinto1cmcubesadashofvintagecidervinegarsuchasOstlerrsquos

Heattheovento180degCGasMark4BlitzthebreadsaltandspicesinablenderorfoodprocessortomakefinecrumbsPuttheminabowladdthemincedgoatrsquosmeatandeggandmixthoroughlyDividethemixtureinto12andshapeintoballsIthelpstorubalittlecookingoilontoyourhandstostopthemeatsticking

Heatalittlerapeseedoilinasmallsaucepanaddtheonioncarrotandceleriacthencoverandsweatoveralow-mediumheatuntilthevegetablesarebeginningtosoftenRemovefromtheheatandsetaside

PutthemeatballsinadeepbakingtininwhichtheyjustfitinasinglelayerPouroverthechickenstockandciderandaddthesoftenedvegetables

PouroverthechickenstockandciderandaddthesoftenedvegetablesCoverwithfoilplaceintheovenandroastfor30minutesTakeoffthefoilandroastfor10minuteslongeruntilthemeatballsarenutbrownincolourwheretheysitabovetheliquid

Meanwhilemakethelovagebutterputthestocklovageseedsandwineinasaucepanandboiluntilreducedbytwo-thirdsitsvolume(ifusingfreshlovageadditaftertheliquidhasreducedandleavetoinfusefor20minutes)StrainthemixturethroughafinesieveintoaheatproofbowlandallowtocoolslightlyWhiskintheeggyolksPlacethebowloverapanofsimmeringwatermakingsurethewaterdoesnottouchthebaseofthebowlWhiskuntilthemixturebecomesthickandairyAtthispointstartwhiskinginthebutteronecubeatatimewaitinguntilithascompletelymeltedbeforeaddingthenextpieceAfterafewpiecesofbutterhavebeenaddedyoucanstartadding2or3cubesatatimeThemorebutteryouincorporatethemoreyoucanaddeachtimeSeasontotastewithseasaltandadashofcidervinegarifyouwish

PlaceafryingpanoveramediumheatWhenitishotaddafilmofrapeseedoilfollowedbythemustardgreensmustardandsalttotasteCookstirringfrequentlyuntiltheleaveshavewilted

Servethemeatballsimmediatelywiththemashwiltedgreensandlovagebutter

daggerWhenweresearchedtheeatingofgoatmeatinthiscountrywefoundthatitwascommonplaceuntilabout1650LuciusColumellatheprominentRomanagriculturalwriterrecommendedthatevensickgoatswouldbefitforhumanconsumptioniftheyweresaltedanddrycuredIntheElizabethanerathephysicianThomasMoufetmaintainedthatoldgoatsshouldbeeatenbytenderisingthemBycontrastroastkidwasafavouriteseventeenth-centuryspringtimedishIntheeighteenthcenturytheWelshnaturalistThomasPennantreportedthatkidswerealsquocheapandplentifulprovisioninthewintermonthsrsquowhiledriedandsaltedgoathaunchesknownaslsquohungvenisonrsquowereeateninsteadofbaconInhisbookofBritishzoologyheclaimedlsquoThismakesanexcellentpastygoesunderthenameofrockvenisonandislittleinferiortothatofdeerThusnatureprovidesevenonthetopsofhighandcraggymountainsnotonlynecessariesbutdelicaciesfortheinhabitantsrsquo(BritishZoology1776)

OxTonguewithSwedeParsleyandCiderVinegar

TongueshouldberegardedunsqueamishlyasanexcellentcutofmeatsuitableforuseinadiverserangeofdishesInVictoriantimesitcertainlywouldhavemadeanappearanceonthecoldtableOnecombinationthatdatesbacktothefourteenthcenturydescribedbyDorothyHartleyaslsquoalwayspopularwiththemenfolkrsquowasarichthickandcreamymustardsaucepouredoverslicesofoxtongueThisrecipeandthefollowingonerequireyoutobrineyourowntongue

PatiencereallyisavirtueinthiscaseaweekofbriningfollowedbyacomparativelyshorttimeinthepotandyouareleftwithadeliciouspieceofmeatTongueisgreatinsaladsinasandwichorroastedwithvegetablesWecouldgoon

SERVES4WITHLEFTOVERS

1oxtongue200gswedepeeledandcutinto25cmcubes5staranise50mldoublecreamabunchofradishesfinelysliced50gflat-leafparsleyleavesrapeseedoilalittlecidervinegarseasaltsmokedseasalttoserve(optional)

FORTHEBRINE

200gcastersugar300gseasalt6juniperberries3cloves3staranise6blackpeppercorns6lovageseeds(orfennelseeds)2bayleaves

2bayleaves

FORCOOKINGTHETONGUE

100gonionfinelydiced50gcarrotfinelydiced50gceleriacorceleryfinelydiced10parsleystalks2bayleaves10peppercorns4staranise2cloves

Putalltheingredientsforthebrineinalargesaucepanadd2litresofwaterandbringtotheboilstirringoccasionallytodissolvethesugarandsaltRemovefromtheheatandleavetocoolthenplaceinthefridgeandchilluntilthetemperatureisbelow5degCPutthetongueinthebrineandweightitdownwithanon-reactiveitemndashsomethingwoodenplasticorceramicwilldothetrickMakesurethetongueiscompletelysubmergedCoverandleaveinthefridgeforaweek

Drainandrinsethetonguethenputitinalargesaucepanwith2litresofwaterandalltheingredientslistedforcookingthetongueBringtoasimmercoverandcookverygentlyfor4hourscheckingthewaterlevelhourlyandtoppingitupasnecessaryRemovethetonguefromitscookingliquorandleaveuntilcoolenoughtohandlethenpeelitItisimportanttopeelitwhileitisstillwarmotherwisethefatssolidifymakingthistaskmuchmoredifficult

TocooktheswedeplacethestaraniseinasaucepanaquarterfullofwaterandsetasteamerbasketoverthetopBringtoasimmerPlacetheswedeinthebasketcoverandsteamfor35ndash40minutesuntiltenderTransfertheswedetoablenderorfoodprocessoraddthecreamandblitzuntilcompletelysmoothSeasonwithsaltandleavetocool

Thinlysliceabout200gofthetongueSpoontheswedepureacuteeonto4servingplatesandtopwiththetongueslicedradishesandparsleyLightlydrizzlealittlerapeseedoilovertheparsleyandfinallyaddafewsplashesofcidervinegarandasprinklingofsmokedsaltifyouhaveit

cidervinegarandasprinklingofsmokedsaltifyouhaveit

daggerInEnglandtheuseofoxencastratedmalesbothfordraftpullingcartsandploughingandforbeefwasoncegeneralpracticeFourpairsofoxenwouldpullaplougheachanimalagedwithayearbetweenStaggeringthepairsmeantthateachyeartwowouldbefattenedforbeefandsoldthuspayingtheirwayTheEnclosuresActsofthelateeighteenthandearlynineteenthcenturieswhichreducedfieldsizeshastenedtheendoftheoxrsquosuseastheteamsofeightneededenoughspacetoturnattheendofeachfurrowBythebeginningofthetwentiethcenturythemorehigh-maintenancehorsewasfavouredforitsspeedandmanoeuvrabilityandeventuallyreplacedthedependableoxTodaywearenoteatingthedraftcattlethatourancestorswouldhaveknownbutinfactbeefcattleandinsomecasescalves

OxTonguewithCauliflowerGilliflowerandHazelnuts

InherbookFoodandDrinkinBritainCAnneWilsonreferstothepracticeofeatingtonguewithgilliflowersmorecommonlyknownascarnationsTheyhaveaflavourthatverycloselyresemblescloveThispairinghasbeenallbutforgottenaboutApparentlyifawitchtriestokillyouyoushouldhandheraredcarnationasshewillhavetocountthepetalsgivingyouenoughtimetofinishyouroxtongueandgilliflowerdinnerandescapeanynastyspells

SERVES41cauliflowerdividedintoflorets2tbspplainflourfrac14tspgroundcloves2eggslightlybeatenwithapinchofsalt30gbutter200goxtonguebrinedandcookedasintherecipeonherethencutinto12slices50ghazelnutstoastedinadryfryingpanandthendustedwithfrac14tsp

groundcinnamon1tablespoonroastedcobnutoil(orwalnutoil)

FORTHEGILLIFLOWERSYRUP

abunchoforganiccarnations(besuretouseonesthathavenrsquotbeensprayed)100mlcidervinegar100gicingsugarplus2tbsp

YouwillneedtopreparethegilliflowersyrupafewdaysinadvanceCutthepetalsfrom3carnationsandputtheminabowlCoverwiththecidervinegarandthenstirinthe100gicingsugarWeightdownwithaplateandsetasidefor3daysatroomtemperature

Onthedayyouwanttoservethesaladtrimthepetalsfrom2flowerheadsrinsethemandspindryinasaladspinnerDrythepetalsonateatoweltocatchthelastdropsofmoisturepreventinganyflavourlossStrainthegilliflowersyrupandtasteitTherewillbenotesofcloveandpepperthoughitmayneedsweeteningalittlefurtherwithicingsugartomellowthevinegarSet2tablespoonsofthesyrupasideaddingthe2tablespoonsoficingsugartoitReservethistocaramelisetheoxtonguebeforeserving

Cookthecauliflowerfloretsinlightlysimmeringsaltedwaterforabout10minutesuntilaldenteDraincoolinice-coldwateranddrainagainverythoroughlyMixtheflourwiththegroundclovesDustthecauliflowerfloretsinthismixtureandthendipthemintothebeateneggsHeatthebutterinafryingpanandfrythecauliflowerinitinsmallbatchestillgolden

Afterfryingthecauliflowercleanoutthepanwithkitchenpaperandplaceitoveramedium-highheatBrushtheoxtonguesliceswiththecaramelisingsyrupandplaceinthehotpanCookwithoutmovingthemuntilyoucanseethembrowningattheedgesthenturnandcolourtheothersidetoo

Assemblethedishbyarrangingthecaulifloweroxtongueandpetalson4servingplatesDropthecinnamon-dustedhazelnutsontopanddresswiththegilliflowersyrupandroastedcobnutoil

SaltMarshLambwithTidalGreens

InEnglandthebenefitsofsalt-marshgrazinghavebeenknownsincethethirteenthcenturyyetformanyyearsthevastmajorityofthemeathasbeenexportedtoFrancewhereitisrecognisedasadelicacyInEnglishFood(MichaelJoseph1974)JaneGrigsonwrotelsquoPeoplelivingaroundRomneyMarshhelliphavetolookacrossatflocksofsheepfeedingonthesaltmarshesandknowthatthemeatwillbypasstheirbutchersandbeservedtotouristsinNormandyBrittanyandParisasagneaupreacute-saleacutespecialiteacutedelamaisonpricetomatchrsquoHoweversaltmarshlambisonceagainbecomingavailablehereFarmerswithcoastalpasturebringtheirflocktotheseamarshesinspringwhentheweatherimprovessothesheepcangrazeclosetothewaterrsquosedgefeedingonseavegetationsuchassamphiresorrelsealavenderandthriftWetookaforagingcoursethatambledthroughthesaltmarshonthe

SevernwherethelambwebuyfortherestaurantgrazeWelearnedaboutedibleseagrassesseakaleandseabeetandrealisedthatwehadsomenewgreenstoservealongsidethisprimelambshoulderWealsoserveitwithfathenacommonplantoftenconsideredtobeaweedwhichgrowsingardensroadsidevergesandhedgerows

SERVES6ndash81tinofanchoviesdrained1shoulderofsaltmarshlambbonedweighingabout2kgrapeseedoil4onionscutintoquarters4largecarrotspeeledbutleftwhole4spearsofrosemaryabunchofparsley1headofgarliccutinhalfthroughitsequator200mldryvermouth1kgnewpotatoesaknobofbutterasmallbunchofmintchopped

FORTHESALTMARSHGREENS

abunchofseaarrowgrassorPickledSamphire(seehere)abunchofseaarrowgrassabunchofseabeet(canbereplacedwithspinachorkale)abunchofseakale(canbereplacedwithpurplesproutingbroccoli)abunchoffathen(canbereplacedwithspinach)aknobofbutter

Heattheovento160degCGasMark3ThefirsttaskistogettheanchoviesintothemeatspikethelambinseveralplaceswithasmallknifeworkingitunderthetoplayerofthefleshlaterallyratherthandownwardsPushtheanchovyfilletsintotheincisionsTheywilldissolveduringthelongcookingprocessseasoningthemeatandnegatingtheneedtosaltthejointfurtherEvenifyouarenotkeenontheserichsaltyandumamifishfilletsweurgeyounottoomitthemThefinalflavourwillnotbeoffishbutofseasonedlamb

Heatathinfilmofrapeseedoilinalargeheavy-basedfryingpanaddthelambshoulderandsearoverahighheatuntilbrownedalloverPuttheonionscarrotsrosemaryparsleyandgarlicinaroastingtinandplacethelambontopPourinthevermouthcoverwithfoilandplaceintheovenRoastfor3frac12ndash4hoursuntilyouhaveatenderroastofthehighestorderRemovefromtheovenandleavetorestforatleast20minutes

ScrubthepotatoesandcutthemsotheyareallroughlythesamesizeasthesmallestonesCookinboilingsaltedwateruntiltenderthendrainwellandtosswithaknobofbutterandthemint

Washthegreensandthenblanchthemwholeinfast-boilingwell-saltedwaterfor1minuteDrainwellandtosswithaknobofbutterServethelambwiththegreensandpotatoes

daggerAttherestaurantweusuallysourceabreedcalledSuffolkCrossCharolloisThebreedwasfirstimportedfromFrancein1976originallyfromthetownofCharollesintheSaocircneLoireregionofFrancewhereitgrazesalongsidethefamousCharollaisCattleOurbutcherbuysourlambfromfarmsbasedonthebanksoftheRiverSevernnearFramptononSevernTheyareslaughteredatStonehouseGloucestershireandsohave

lessthan5foodmilesattributabletothemThewildseaplantsonwhichourlambfeedarehighinsaltlevelsandiodinemakingthemusclecellsinthefleshretainmoremoistureThemeatisconsequentlysweeterjuicierandnotaspinkasmountainlamb

SteamedRabbitPudding

RabbithashistoricallybeenregardedaspoormanrsquosgameItwasoneoftheonlywildanimalsthatcommonerswereallowedtohunttherestbeingreservedforthecrownorthegentryTodaypeoplearescepticalaboutcookingwithrabbitbutitisundoubtedlygrowinginpopularityAtTheEthicureanwecookonlywildrabbitsfavouringtheirfirmtextureandgameyflavourMuchoftherabbitavailableinshopsisfarmedPleaseavoidbuyingthisasittendstobeblandandaltogetheruninterestingInsteadaskyourbutchertoorderyouayoungwildrabbitItisagooddealeasiertoidentifytheageofarabbitthathasthepelt(fur)

stillattachedAnoldtoughrabbitwillhaveascruffypatchycoatwornclawstoughearsandbrokenanddamagedteethThereislittletodowiththeseinthekitchenbutslowroastthemAyoungrabbitshouldhaveaglossyhealthycoatgoodstrongclawsandpliableearsInthisrecipeweemployagreatBritishtraditionthesteamedsuet

puddingBeforesealingtherabbitinthepastrywepressure-cookitwholeinMorganSweetciderfromthelowerorchardWehaveseentheoddappledropandlandonarabbitrsquosheadTheironyisnotlostonus

SERVES48springonionsouterlayerandrootsremoved1rabbitskinnedkidneysremoved1bottle(330ml)PerryrsquosMorganSweetciderorothergoodsweetcider5sprigsofthyme5blackpeppercornsseasalt

FORTHESUETPASTRY

300gself-raisingflourapinchofsalt150gcoarselygratedbeefsuetbutterforgreasing

PlaceagriddleoverahighheatandleaveforafewminutestogetveryhotAddthespringonionsandcookturningoccasionallyuntiltheyarecharred

AddthespringonionsandcookturningoccasionallyuntiltheyarecharredandtenderPlacetheminapressurecookerwiththewholerabbitciderthymeandpeppercornsAttachthelidandplaceonthehighestheatuntilitisatfullpressurethenturntheheatdownandcookfor1frac12hoursRemovefromtheheatandleavetocooltoroomtemperaturebeforeremovingthelid(Ifyoudonrsquothaveapressurecookercooktherabbitinacoveredpanoveralowheatfor3hourscheckingtheliquidleveleveryhourorsoandaddingmoreciderifnecessary)TaketherabbitoutofthecookerreservingtheliquidThoroughlyflakeallthemeatfromthebonesPlacethemeatinasaucepanstrainthecookingliquidthroughwetmuslinorafinesieveandcookoveramedium-highheatuntiltheliquidhasalmostcompletelyevaporatedSeasonwithsalttotaste

TomakethepastrysifttheflourintoabowladdthesaltandsuetandmixwellwithaknifeSlowlyadd200mlwaterstirringitintomakeadoughTurnoutontoaflouredsurfaceandkneadlightlyforacoupleofminutesthenrolloutto5mmthickGreasea12litrepuddingbasinwellwithbutterthenlineitwiththesuetpastryreservingaboutaquarterforthelidFillthebasinwiththerabbitRolloutthereservedpastrytofitthetopofthebasinthenputitoverthefillingandpinchtheedgestogetherTrimoffanyexcesspastry

Takeapieceoffoillargeenoughtocoverthetopofthebasingenerouslyandfolda2ndash3cmpleatinthecentretoallowroomforexpansionCoverthebasinwiththefoiltuckingitundertherimtosealPlaceonawirestandinsidethepressurecookerandaddacoupleofinchesofwatertothepanAttachthelidtothepressurecookerandplaceoverahighheattobringittofullpressureReducetheheatandcookonfullpressurefor1frac14hours(Alternativelyyoucouldsteamtherabbitinaconventionalsteamerfor2frac12hours)RemovefromtheheatandallowtocoolalittlethenturnthepuddingoutontoalargeservingplateDiverightin

PorkJuniperandBlackIPAPie

InBritaintherelationshipsbetweenapplesbeerporkandpiesareasoldasthehillsThereismuchtocelebrateonourlittleislandandtheporkpieshouldbeworshippedattheveryleastonceaweekAlittlesmudgeof

shouldbeworshippedattheveryleastonceaweekAlittlesmudgeofmustardasliceofpiebalancedonthekneewithagoodpausebetweeneachbiteThisisapiethatmustbeeatenoutdoorsandhelpedonitswaywithagoodbestbitterordryciderWemustconfessthattheeccentricitiesofthisrecipeevolvedfromthe

greatFrenchtraditionofmakingcoarseporkterrinesWelovejuniperndashitsheadyresinousfragranceisthedelightofgindrinkersanditistrulyathomewithporkTheFrenchndashandthelategreatKeithFloydndashwouldtumbleinaclaretsavingthelastthirdofthebottleasacookrsquosperkandanothertoenjoyduringbakingWeforgowinehereforanIndiaPaleAle(IPA)andablackIPAatthatThisisnrsquotmerelyforpatrioticeffectbutbecauseofthewonderfullyhoppednatureofanIPAandtheroastedmaltybasethatcomesfromtheinclusionofdarkmaltMoorBeerbasedinPitneyinSomersetmakesaverygoodblackIPAcalledIllusionJustyntheheadbrewerrefusestoaddfinningstoclearhisbeersayinglsquoWhywouldIwanttheswimbladdersoffishinmypintpurelyforclarityrsquoHehasapointIfyoucannotfindablackIPAagoodregularIPAwilldoverywellindeedEvenifyouareunfamiliarwiththenamehot-watercrustpastryyouwill

undoubtedlyhaveeatenitifyouhaveeverindulgedinagoodporkpieItiscommonlyusedformakinghand-raisedpiesandisanimportantpartofMatthewandIainrsquosinfamouslsquopieoffsrsquoThetwoarerarelycompetitivebutwhenitcomestohand-raisingporkpies(ratherthantakingtheeasieroptionofmakingtheminamouldasbelow)wewilloftenhearthewordslsquoItrsquosonrsquofromthekitchenndashthendeadlysilenceensueswhilethetwometiculouslygoaboutshapingtheirpiesOncethepiesareintheoventhebanterandteasingbeginlsquoWaaahyourpiersquosdefinitelygoingtocrackrsquolsquoWhateverYoursissowonkyitrsquosnotevengonnastanduprightrsquoItisapastrythatcontradictstraditionalmethodsofpastrymakingneedingtobeusedwarmsoitcanbeshapedDonotletthisintimidateyoundashthisisaveryeasyandfunpastrytoworkwith

SERVES8

FORTHEFILLING

13kgporkbellymincedonacoarsesetting(askyourbutcherforthebones)200gpigrsquoslivercutinto1cmcubes200gmincedbeef10smokedstreakybaconrasherscutinto2cmpieces

10smokedstreakybaconrasherscutinto2cmpieces2garlicclovesfinelysliced15blackpeppercornsplus1tspfreshlygroundblackpepper17juniperberrieslightlycrushedfrac12tspgroundmace250mlblackIPA(orregularIPA)75mlSomersetciderbrandy1tbspfineseasalt

FORTHEJELLY

thebonesfromtheporkbelly3ndash4pigrsquostrotters1largecarrotfinelysliced1largeonionfinelysliced1bayleaf5sprigsofthyme12blackpeppercorns2ndash3lovageleaves(orceleryleaves)seasalt

FORTHEHOT-WATERCRUSTPASTRY

450gstrongwhiteflourfrac12tspsalt1tbspicingsugar1egg80glarddiced80gbutterdiced1egglightlybeatentoglaze

FirstmakethejellyPutalltheingredientsexceptthelovageandsaltinapanadd15litresofwaterandbringtotheboilReducetheheattoasimmerandcookuncoveredfor2hoursmeticulouslyskimmingoffanyscumthatrisestothesurfaceStrainthroughafinesieveintoacleanpanandbringtotheboilBoiluntilreducedtoaquarterofitsvolumethenremove

fromtheheatNowitrsquostimetotestwhetherithasreducedtothecorrectconsistencyPutatablespoonoftheliquidonaplateandleaveitinthefridgefor20minutesPushyourfingerthroughthemiddleoftheliquidIftheliquidbeginstocrinklethenitrsquosreadyIfnotcontinuetoreduceitoverahighheatforafewmoreminutesthentestagainWhenthecorrectconsistencyisachievedbringtheliquidtotheboiladdthelovageleavesandturnofftheheatLeavethelovagetoinfusefor20minutesthenremoveanddiscardTasteoncemoreandseasonwithseasaltaccordingly

YoucouldmakethestockforthejellyinapressurecookerFollowtheinstructionsabovebutcookatfullpressurefor80ndash90minutesRemovefromtheheatandallowtocooltoroomtemperaturebeforeremovingthelidThenstrainreduceandtestasabove

PutalltheingredientsforthefillinginabowlandmixwithyourhandsuntilthoroughlycombinedSetasidewhileyoumakethepastry

Heattheovento180degCGasMark4TomakethepastrymixthefloursaltandicingsugartogetherinalargebowlMakeawellinthecentreandaddtheeggCovertheeggwiththeflourPutthelardandbutterinasaucepanwith200mlwaterGraduallybringthewatertoasimmerandleaveuntilthefatshavemeltedSlowlypourthewaterandfatintotheflourCuttogetherwithaknifeuntiladoughhasstartedtoformthenturnoutontoaflouredsurfaceandkneadlightlyuntilglossyandsmoothndashacoupleofminutesmaximumUseimmediately

SetasideathirdofthepastryforthelidRollouttherestonalightlyflouredsurfaceto5mmthickandusetolinea23cmpiemouldorspringformcaketinTrimtheexcesspastryhangingovertheedgesandputtoonesideSpooninthefillingpressingitdowngentlysoitisevenlydistributedRolloutthereservedpastry3mmthicktomakealidPutitontopofthepieandpinchittothepastryedgesotherearenogapsYoucangentlyshapetherimintoaprettydesignshouldyousowishMakeasmallholeinthecentreforventing

Rolloutthepastrytrimmingsto3ndash5mmthickCutastrip5cmwideandasimilarlengthtothepieCutdiagonallyintostripsallthewaydowntheentirelengthandthenagaintheotherwaysowhatyouareleftwithare

diamondsinthecentreandhalfdiamondsontheedge(seethephotoopposite)

BrushthepiewiththebeateneggtoglazethenlaytheextrapastryinastripacrossthetopofthepieinadesignofyourchoiceleavingtheventholeclearLightlyglazetheextrapastrypieceswitheggthenplacethepieintheovenandbakefor20minutesTurntheovendownto160degCGasMark3andbakeforafurther45ndash60minutesuntilthejuicesrunclear(ifyouhaveaprobethermometertheinternaltemperatureofthepieshouldbe86degC)Ifthepieisbrowningtooquicklywhichcanoftenhappencoverittightlywithfoil

AllowthepietocooltoroomtemperaturethencarefullyremoveitfromthemouldIfthejellyhassetwarmitslightlysoitisjustliquidSlowlypourthejellyinthroughthesteamventuntilthepieisfullPlaceinthefridgefor2ndash4hourstosetthejelly

daggerWedoenjoyasplashofSomersetCiderBrandyinourpieJulianTemperleyhasmadeasuccessofdistillingcideralongwiththehelpofhistwocontinuousstillsJosephineandFifiThisisnopoorrelationofCognacbutaformidablespiritthathasafloralspiceandadepththathasbeenbroughttolifeontheSomersetlevelsJulianrsquosexperimentswithblendsbarrelsandageinghavefurnishedourrestaurantwithenoughmarvellousdrinkstokeepanySomersetciderfarmerrosie-cheeked

PearlBarleywithOldDemdikeandStGeorgersquosMushroom

Weloveumami-richfoodsandmushroomsandcheesearefantasticsourcesofitUmamiorsavouryflavourisnowconsideredtobethefifthbasictastendashtheothersbeingsweetsoursaltyandbitterTomatoescheesessuchasParmesanandCheddarandmushroomsarepackedfullofitThisdishisverysimilartotheItalianorzottoOrzottoislikerisottoonly

pearlbarleyisusedeasilymatchingthequalityofCarnaroliorVialoneNanoriceWhenrisottosandorzottosarewellexecutedtheyareadelightndashheartysoothingandoftennostalgicndashyettheycanbeimproveduponfurtherwiththeuseoftexturalcontrastsandburstsofflavouraswedointhisrecipeHereintenselyflavouredmushroomjelliesaddaburstofrichumamiandatexturalcontrastStGeorgersquosmushroomsgivehintsofwatermelonandcucumberwhileaewersquoscheesecrispaddsafineaestheticfinishtoanalreadystunningdish

SERVES4150goldDemdikecheesegrated300gpearlbarley2tbsprapeseedoil200gonionsfinelydiced150gcarrotsfinelydiced200gceleriacfinelydiced250mlredwine350mlmushroomstock(seehere)10ndash15smallStGeorgersquosmushroomsquartered(ifunavailableuseoystermushrooms)

1tbspchoppedparsleyMushroomJelly(seehere)madewithsmokedsaltifpossibleseasalt

Tomaketheewersquoscheesecrispsarrange50gofthegratedcheeseinanovalshapeonapieceofbakingparchmentPlaceanotherpieceofparchmentontopandrollitoutintoathinlayerTurnoutintoafryingpanandplaceona

topandrollitoutintoathinlayerTurnoutintoafryingpanandplaceonamedium-lowheatuntilthecheesehasmeltedandthebottomhasbeguntobrownlightlyPutthepanunderahotgrillandleaveuntilthecheeseisanevengolden-browncolouralloverLeavetocoolthenbreakinto4piecesandsetaside

PlacethepearlbarleyinasaucepancoverwithcoldwaterandbringtotheboilDrainwellthenrepeatDrainandsetasideHeathalftherapeseedoilinasaucepanaddtheonionscarrotsandceleriacandcookoveramediumheatuntiltheybegintosoftenDonotallowthemtocolourStirinthepearlbarleyfollowedbytheredwineandcookuntilthewinehasbeencompletelyabsorbedbythebarleyAddthemushroomstockaladlefulatatimewaitingforittobefullyabsorbedbeforeaddingthenextContinuefor10ndash15minutesuntilthepearlbarleyiscookedbutstillhasaslightresistancetothebite

MeanwhileheattheremainingrapeseedoilinafryingpanaddthemushroomsandfryoverahighheatuntiltenderandgoldenbrownAddthemtothepearlbarleyreservingafewforgarnishingStirintheremaininggratedcheeseandtheparsleyandseasonwithsaltServegarnishedwiththeremainingfriedmushroomsthemushroomjelliesandthecheesecrisps

RhubarbandCustard

MostpeoplecredittheeccentricVictorianswithplacingjelliesfirmlyontheBritishgastronomymapAfterallitwastheVictorianaristocracywhoexcelledatusingdecorativejelliesatbanquetstodisplaytheirpowerandsocialstandingInfactjellieshadbeenaroundforcenturiespreviouslyandsavouryjellieswerecommonatmedievalfeastsWecreatedthisdessertinhonourofRobertMayaseventeenth-century

cookwhointroducedfruitjelliestotheEnglishtableandmetwithasurprisingamountofresistanceThissuperblyflavouredjellyconsistsoftwoingredientsthatwethinkweremeanttobetogetherndashrhubarbandcustardYoudonrsquotnecessarilyhavetolayerthemexactlyasdescribedbelowYoucouldmakethinnerlayersoraddaborderofjellyetcGetcreativeJustbesuretoseteachlayerfullybeforeaddingmore

SERVES6

FORTHERHUBARBJELLY

15kgrhubarbcutinto2cmpieces150gcastersugar13ggelatine

FORTHECUSTARD

600mldoublecream1vanillapod8eggyolks200gcastersugar11ggelatine

FORTHERHUBARBCOMPOTE(OPTIONAL)

2largerhubarbstalkscutinto1ndash2cmpiecesafewtbspcastersugartotaste

Forthejellyput650mlwaterinapanandbringtotheboilPlaceasteamerbasketoverthetoplargeenoughtoholdtherhubarbAddtherhubarbtothebasketcoverwithatight-fittinglidandsteamoveralowheatfor1hourIftoomuchsteamisescapingputalayeroffoiloverthepanandputthelidon

toomuchsteamisescapingputalayeroffoiloverthepanandputthelidontopofthefoil

WhiletherhubarbissteamingmakethecustardPourthecreamintoaheavy-basedsaucepanSlitthevanillapodopenlengthwiseandscrapeouttheseedsAddtheseedsandpodtothecreamandbringtojustbelowboilingpointthenremovefromtheheatandcoolslightlyWhisktheeggyolksandsugartogetherinalargebowluntiltheyolksbecomepaleandthesugarisfullyincorporatedPourthecreamthroughafinesieveontotheeggyolkswhiskuntilsmoothandthentransfertoacleansaucepanPutthegelatinesheetsintoabowlofice-coldwaterandleavetosoakfor10minutes

HeatthecustardmixturegentlystirringconstantlyAfterafewminutesitwillbegintothickenItisvitaltostirallpartsthoroughlytopreventanyofthemixtureovercooking(Ifyouhaveadigitalthermometerthenthisisagoodtimetouseitthecustardshouldbenomorethan85degCotherwiseitwillscramble)WhenithasthickenedenoughtocoatthebackofthespoonwithoutrunningoffremovefromtheheatandplacethepanbrieflyinabowlofcoldwatertostopitcookingfurtherStrainthecustardthroughasieveintoabowlSqueezeoutanyexcessliquidfromthegelatineandaddthegelatinetothecustardstirringuntilcompletelydissolvedCoolthecustardquicklybyplacingthebowlinacoupleofinchesofcoldwaterinthesinkthenchillinthefridge

CUSTARD

InabusykitchenmakingcustardfromscratchisabitofatreatAsimplejobitisachancetostandstillandfocusononetaskit

forcesyoutoslowdownphysicallyandmentallySlowlywatchinghowtheviscosityofthecustardchangeswhilestirringconstantlyisquiteagroundingexerciseItisamomentwhenyoutakeinthesoundsandsmellsaroundyouandregainsome

clarityamidstalltheactivity

clarityamidstalltheactivity

Whentherhubarbhassteamedfor1hourremovefromtheheatanddiscardtherhubarbAllthejuiceandflavourfromtherhubarbwillbeinthewaterinthepanunderneathsokeepthisMeasureout450mloftherhubarb-infusedwaterintoacleansaucepanaddthesugarandheatgentlystirringuntildissolvedSoftenthegelatineinice-coldwaterasforthecustardSqueezeoutanyexcesswaterandaddthegelatinetothepanofftheheatStiruntilcompletelydissolvedthensetaside

Tosetthejellyyouwillneeda1-litreterrinejellymouldorbowlIfusingaterrineverylightlyoiltheinsideusingapastrybrushthenlinewithalayerofclingfilmOncetheterrineislinedwithclingfilmithelpstofilltheterrinewithwaterwhichenablesyoutoremoveanyremainingairbubblesfromtheedgesoftheterrineDiscardthewaterandgentlypatdrywithkitchenrollIgnorethisprocessifusingajellymouldorbowl

Pouralayerofjellyintoyourchosenreceptacletillabout1ndash2cmdeepPlaceinthefridgefor1frac12hoursoruntilsetfirmPuthalfthecustardinapanplaceoverthelowestpossibleheatandstircontinuouslyuntilfluidPourthecustardintothemouldoverabackofaspoonheldjustabovetherhubarbjellyThisslowsitsfallmakingitlesslikelytobreakthejellyapartPourthecustardoverthefirstlayerofrhubarbjellyandreturntothefridgeLeavefor2hoursoruntilcompletelyfirm

TakeouttheremainingjellyandplaceinasaucepanoveralowheatuntilfluidPouroverthesetlayerofcustard(usingaspoonasyoudidbefore)andreturntothefridgeuntilcompletelysetThenheattheremainingcustarduntilfluidandpouritintothemouldoverthebackofaspoonasbeforeLeaveinthefridgepreferablyovernightuntilset

Tomakethecompoteputtherhubarbinasaucepanjustbigenoughtoholditinasinglelayerandadd2tablespoonsofwaterCookcoveredoveralow-mediumheatuntiltherhubarbbeginstobreakdownStirinsugartotasteandcontinuetocookuntilthecompoteistheconsistencyofrunnyjam

tasteandcontinuetocookuntilthecompoteistheconsistencyofrunnyjamRemovefromtheheatandleavetocool

Turnthejellyoutofthemouldandservewiththecompoteifliked

daggerTheVictorianerawasthehey-dayofjellymakingthoughjellieshadbeenaroundforcenturiesInTudorandStuarttimesitwascommonforthegentrytobuildsummerhousesintheirgardensjustsothattheirbanquetingguestshadsomewherequietwheretheycouldenjoythefinaljellycourseAssugarbecamemorewidelyavailabledessert-makersmadethemostofitBytheseventeenthcenturysweetjellieswerethenormseasonedwithrosewaterandspicesOthercreationsincludedtransparentpuddingsinwhichlayersofslicedalmondsraisinscitronandcandiedlemonwerevisiblethroughthejelly

ChocolateandSaltCaramelBrownieswithCherryandElderflowerSauce

TherearecountlessrecipesforchocolatebrowniesandinitiallywethoughtthatperhapsthereweretoomanyalreadyHowevergiventhatourlocalareahassuchanillustrioushistoryinchocolateproductionwefeltitwasonlyfairtocomeupwithourownchocolaterecipeWehavetheindustriousVictorianstothankformakingchocolateavailabletothewiderpublicItwasinfactafactoryinBristolownedbyJSFryampSonsthatproducedthefirstchocolatebarin1847ThecompanywentontoproducesomeofourchildhoodfavouritessuchasFryrsquosChocolateCreamandTurkishDelightWeliketouseOriginalBeanschocolatebecauseofitsqualityandthe

companyrsquosethicswhichcloselymatchourownCo-foundedbytheenvironmentalistentrepreneurPhilippKauffmanOriginalBeansisrenownedforitszerocarbonpoliciesandpassionforsustainablefarmingTheadditionofsaltcaramelisprimarilytoenhancethesweetnessofthe

browniealthoughwehavetoadmitthatitdoesaddalottotheoverallpresentationtoo

SERVES4WITHPLENTYOFBROWNIESLEFTFORTOMORROW

250gdarkchocolateatleast72percentcocoasolids170gunsaltedbutter300gcastersugar3largeeggslightlybeaten1eggyolk80mlrapeseedoil60gplainflourfrac12tspbakingpowderfrac12tspsalt70gorganiccocoapowder50gSaltCaramel(seehere)plusextratoserve

FORTHECHERRYANDELDERFLOWERSAUCE

100gfrozensourcherries

100gfrozensourcherries50gElderflowerSyrup(seehere)orelderflowercordial

Heattheovento180degCGasMark4Lightlygreasea23cmspringformcaketin

Melt200gofthechocolateinabowlplacedoverapanoflightlysimmeringwatermakingsurethewaterdoesnottouchthebaseofthebowlRemovefromtheheat

UsinganelectricwhiskorafreestandingmixerfittedwiththepaddleattachmentbeatthebutterandsugartogetheruntilpaleandlightChangethemixerattachmenttoawhiskorcontinueusingtheelectricwhiskSlowlyaddtheeggsandtheextrayolknomorethanatablespoonatatimewhiskingthoroughlybetweeneachadditionSlowlyaddtherapeseedoilandwhiskthemixtureforafurther5minutesuntilithasaglossysilkyappearance

SiftintheflourbakingpowdersaltandcocoapowderandwhiskbrieflyuntilincorporatedUsingametalspoonfoldinthemeltedchocolatePourthemixtureintothecaketinandsmooththetopRoughlychoptheremainingchocolateandlightlypushthepiecesintothesurfaceofthecakemixRepeattheprocesswiththesaltcaramelpiecesPlaceinthecentreofovenandbakefor25minutesoruntilaknifeinsertedinthecentrecomesawaywithalittlecakemixtureattacheditshouldnotlookraw

Ifitdoesreturntotheoventestingevery3minutesRemovefromtheovenandleavetocoolonawirerack

AllowtocooltoroomtemperatureonawiretrayMeanwhileputthecherriesandelderflowersyrupinasmallsaucepanandcookoveramediumheatforabout10minutesuntilsyrupyLeavetocoolalittlebeforeserving

ThebrowniescanbeservedhotorcoldTurnoutandslicethenservewithshardsofsaltcaramelbrokenovereachportionandthewarmsyruppouredoverThebrowniescanberefrigeratedforupto5daysbutyouwouldneedagreatdealofwillpowerforthemtolastthatlongFreezingisagoodwaytolengthentheirlifeandithastheaddedbonusofincreasingthefudginess

Elderflowersyrup

100mlwater100gcastersugar2largeheadsofelderflower

Put100gcastersugarinapanwith100mlwaterandbringtotheboilstirringtodissolvethesugarImmediatelyremovefromtheheatandadd2largeheadsofelderflowerLeavetoinfusefor20minutesthenstrainthroughapieceofwetmuslinorasieveLeavetocoolthenstoreinthefridgeforuptoaweek

StrawberryandRoseLemonadePuddingwithSaffronandCiderBrandyCustard

ThisisamarvellouswayofusingupthelastjarofstrawberryjambeforethesummerglutWehavepolishedoffoneofthesepuddingsinunder5minutesbetweenthefourofusThebrandyandsaffrongivethecustardcomplexityandpunchandcomplementthestrawberryinawayyoumightnothaveexpected

SERVES6160mlRoseLemonade(seehereoruseFentimans)150gsaltedbutteratroomtemperaturecutintocubes235gcastersugar160gplainfloursifted85mlsouredcream1largeegg2tspvanillaextract1frac12tspbicarbonateofsoda100gstrawberryjamahandfulofpalerosepetalstogarnish

FORTHESAFFRONANDCIDERBRANDYCUSTARD

12saffronstamens25mlciderbrandy480mldoublecream1vanillapod6eggyolks160gcastersugar

PuttheroselemonadeandbutterinapanandwarmoverthelowestpossibleheatuntilthebutteralmostmeltsthenremovefromtheheatAddthesugarandstirinwellWhiskinthesiftedflourin2stagesuntilcompletelyincorporatedthensetasideInaseparatebowlwhisktogetherthesouredcreameggvanillaextractandbicarbonateofsodaAddthistotheroselemonadeandflourmixtureandwhisktoincorporateoncemore

lemonadeandflourmixtureandwhisktoincorporateoncemore

Greasea12litrepuddingbasinwithbutterPutthestrawberryjaminthebottomofthebasinandtopwiththecakemixTakeapieceoffoillargeenoughtocoverthebasinandmakeapleatinthecentrethiswillallowthepuddingtoexpandduringcookingPutthefoiloverthebasinandtucktheedgesundertherimPutthebasininasteamercoverwithalidandsteamfor2hourscheckingthewaterlevelevery30minutesorsoandtoppingupwhennecessary(Thepuddingcanalsobesteamedinapressurecookeroveratrivetwith25cmwaterinthebottomatfullpressureforanhourtogetittothetablequicker)ThecustardcanbepreparedasthepuddingcomestotheendofitssteamingAddthesaffrontotheciderbrandytoinfusetheirheadyscentstogetherSplitthevanillapodopenandscrapeouttheseedsPuttheseedsandpodinaheavy-basedsaucepanwiththecreamandsetoveralowheatuntilalmostboilingRemovefromtheheatandletitcoolalittleWhisktheeggyolksandsugartogetherinabowluntiltheyolksturnpalethenpourinthecreamthroughasievewhiskingtocombinePourthemixtureintoacleanpanandsetoveralowheatCookstirringconstantlyuntilthemixturethickensItisimportantnottoleavethepanaloneatthisstageaswanderingconcentrationwillleadtoascrambledeggcustardIfyouhaveadigitalthermometerthecustardwillstarttothickenat70degCandbeatitsthickestat85degCndashanyhigherthanthatanditwillscrambleWithorwithoutathermometermuchoftheskillliesinbeingabletoseethischangeKeepacloseeyeonthecustardasyoustirandwatchforthemomentwhenthereisacleartrailleftbehindthespoononthebaseofthepanChalkupanotherkitchenskillwhenyouseethatvelvetsaucecompleted

Passthecustardthroughafinesieveandstirintheciderbrandyandsaffron

TurnthepuddingoutofthebasinandservewiththecustardSaffronandstrawberryisalip-smackingcombinationandcanbebetteredonlybytheadditionofafewpalerosepetalsscatteredoverthepuddingonceitisserved

VERMOUTH

EssentiallyvermouthismadewithabasewinethathasbeensweetenedwithamixtureofgrapejuiceandalcoholVariousbotanicalsextractsarethenaddedbeforematurationfilteringandbottlingThereareanincrediblenumberofvermouthsonthemarketatleast40varietiesTwoofthebest-knownaretheFrenchNoillyPratwhichuses20ndash30botanicalsandtheItalianMartiniRossiwhichcontains30Alsquotearsquoismadebymaceratingthebotanicalsinahighproofspiritinslowlyrevolvingbarrelsfor10ndash15daysthenasetratioofeachisaddedtothebasewineThisiseversoslightlymoreprofessionalthanshakingajamjarWewereinspiredbytheflavoursofAnticaFormulaandPunteMesand

bythesubtletyofBonmewhichcomesfromthePiedmontregionofItalyItisthecomplexitiesofvermouththatreallycapturedourattentionItworksasanaperitifacocktailingredientadigestifandasaningredientincookingThisisduetothemedicinalnatureofthebotanicalingredientssomestimulatehungerwhileotherssettlethestomachWewantedtocreateourownhousevermouththatmatchedourtastesanexpressionofourrestaurantandourlocationJackhadtoengageagooddealofgreymattertogethisheadaroundthemathswhenitcametothebotanicalsWhatfollowedwasnothingshortofalengthyprocessoftrialanderrorWehadbottlesandbottlesofvermouthallslightlydifferentasweincreasedanddecreasedtheproportionsofeachbotanicalteaTheEthicureanwaspepperedwithjarsofourexperimentsSomeweresoastringentthattheyresultedinextremefacialcontortionsamongstthefriendswhotriedthemWehadagoodchatwithJekkaMcVicarwhohelpeduschoosethevarietiesofherbsbestsuitedtoourrecipesandtobeinggrownintheWalledGardenTherecipebelowisforsweetvermouthbutthisisbynomeansadefinitiverecipeThepleasurecomesfromtryingoutyourowncombinationsPleasefeelfreetoleaveoutbotanicalsoraddnewonesofyourownWehaveincludedtheoptionofloweringthesugarcontentforadrierofferingSetasideasmallareaofyourkitchenandstackupthosejarsofmacerating

botanicalsTrythemallindividuallynotingtheirflavoursandyouwillgraduallybegintobeabletobuildyourownvermouthbasedonyourchosenprofileTheremayevenbethepossibilityofsubstitutingsomewildbitteringagentsforsomeoftheexoticbitterbotanicalsHereisashortlistof

possibilitiesCHAMOMILEusedinlotsofvermouthsaddsagoodfloralflavour

GORSEFLOWERSalternativebitterflavourMARITIMEPINENEEDLESresinousflavourFENNELSEEDSusedinsomevermouths

EQUIPMENT

bullScalesthatmeasureto01ofagramarecrucialforweighingoutthesmallamountsofeachbotanicalteaTheyareagreatpieceofequipmentandquiteinexpensivebullAhydrometerisusefulforworkingoutthealcoholcontentofyourfinishedvermouthbull20sterilejamjarsforthebotanicalsbullApipetteforaddingeachbotanicalteaalthoughateaspoonwillsufficebullAsmallteastrainerwillhelptokeepoutanypiecesofthebotanicalswhenaddingtheteatothebasewine

TheEthicureanVermouthBotanicals

ANGELICASEEDS(Angelicaarchangelica)Similarinaromatojuniper

BAY(Laurusnobilis)MedicinalqualitiesAnti-inflammatoryantibacterial

BLACKPEPPER(Pipernigrum)Hotwoodandfloralflavours

CARDAMOM(Amomumcardamom)AromaticandresinousdigestiveUsedtotreatinfections

CINAMMON(Cinnamomumverum)LaurelfamilySweetaromaticspice

CLOVE(Syzygiumaromaticum)CentralandSouthernEuropeprincipalingredientinAngosturabittersgoodfordigestionContainsglycosidesoneofthemostbitternaturalcompoundsknownandeugenolwhichhasantisepticandanaestheticqualities

CORIANDER(Coriandrumsativum)LemonandcitrusflavourWarmnuttyspicyorange

GENTIANROOT(Gentianalutea)VerybitterusedinAngostorabitters

JUNIPER(Juniperuscommunis)Pineyandresinous

MARJORAM(Origanummajorana)Balsamicandaromaticflavour

NUTMEG(Myristicafragrans)PreservinganddelicateagentORANGEPEELAromaticsweetonthenoseandforusakeyelementofourvermouth

ORRIS(Irisgermanica)EnhancesotheraromasandperfumesViolet-likesmelltasteslikeraspberry

QUASSIABARK(Quassiaamara)Quassinisthebitterestsubstanceinnature

ROSEMARY(Rosmarinusofficinalis)Aromaticwarmandslightlybitter

SAGE(Salviaofficinalis)containsthujoneaslightlyantiseptic-tastingcompoundSavouryflavour

STARANISE(Illiciumverum)AgreatflavourenhancerRichspice

VANILLA(Vanillaplanifolia)Addsaflavourofagedoakwhichisfoundinmaturevermouths

WORMWOOD(Artemisiaabsinthium)VerybittermedicinalpropertiesKeyingredientforanauthenticvermouth

YARROW(Achilleamillefolium)VerybitterOftencalledarrowrootintheUKitisregardedasahealingherb

Vermouth

QUANTITIESFOREACHBOTANICALTEA

Angelicaseeds15gBayleaves15gBlackpeppercorns10g

Blackpeppercorns10gCardamom1gCinammon83gClove05gCoriander15gGentianroot2gJuniper15gMarjoram5gNutmeg5gOrangepeel146gOrris6gQuassiabark4gRosemary5gSage15gStaranise5gVanilla5gWormwood4gYarrow2g

YourvermouthcanbestoredinasterilisedbottlewithagoodsealvacuumpumpingitisaverysensibleideaStoreinthefridgeanddrinkwithinacoupleofmonthswearesurethatitwillbegoneinaweek

ThebotanicalslistedherecanallbepurchasedonlineorfromChineseherbalistsWeuseacrispdryEnglishwhitewinefromSomersetasourbasewinealthoughinthepastwehaveusedaColombardandGrosMansengblendTryoutafewwhitewinesandseewhichoneyouprefer

WemakeourowncaramelandaddittothewineHoweverreducingtheamountofcaramelcanmakeverygooddryvermouthSweetvermouthtypicallycontains10ndash15percentsugarwhileadryonewillcontainnomorethan5percentItiscrucialtoraisethealcoholbyvolumeofthewine(thisisachievedbyaddingthebotanicalteas)asat13ndash15percentalcoholtheyeastwillstopconvertinggrapesugarsThisisimportantasyoudonotwantabottlethatwillcontinuetofermentAMuscatwinemakesanexcellentsweetvermouth

Thebasicproportionsforthisrecipeare500mlwine150mlintotalofthebotanicalteas200gcaramelThisyieldsjustunder700mlvermouth

TakeasmalljamjarandfillitaroundathirdfullwithyourbotanicalTopuptotwicetheheightthatthebotanicalreacheswithahighproofvodkaScrewonthelidandleavetomacerateatroomtemperaturefor2weeks

WhenmakingthecaramelforthevermouthfollowtheinstructionsforthesaltcaramelonhereomittingthesaltWerecommendtakingthecarameltoadarkambercolourforextradepthandcomplexityHeatingittosomewherebetween185and188degCwilldothetrickThiscanbepouredontoasiliconematandallowedtocoolintoasolidcaramelItcanbestoredinthesamewayasthesaltcarameluntilneeded

Whencombiningthecaramelwiththewineaddaquarterofthewine(oraslittleasneededtodissolvethecaramel)toapanandplaceonalowheatAddthecaramelshardsandstiruntilcompletelydissolvedAllowthemixturetocooltoroomtemperaturebeforecombiningwiththeremainingwineAddthebotanicalsintheproportionsgivenabovePleasetasteasyouaddthemasthiswillgiveyouasenseofwhateachingredientaddstoyourvermouth

HOWTOOAKYOURVERMOUTH

IfyouwouldliketotryoakingyourvermouthyouwillneedalargesterilisedjarwithawideneckPlaceahandfulofcleanoakchipsinthecentreofapieceofsterilisedmuslinandtiewitha

pieceofstringDropthebagofoakchipsintothejarandtopupwiththevermouthTryleavingforaweekandtasteregularlySomeofthebestvermouthsarematuredinoakthisisagreat

wayofsimulatingthatmaturationprocess

AtipforsterilisingtheoakchipswithoutremovingtoomuchoftheirflavourandtanninsistosteamthemPlaceinapanwithadropofwaterandalidturnuptoamediumheatandthechips

willsteam

RoseLemonade

WehavelovedFentimansrsquobotanicallybreweddrinksforyearsRecentlywehadadabbleatcookingwithsomeofthemandthewinnerwasroselemonadeWedecidedtoworkoutarecipeforourownversionInordertobrewitproperlywefirsthadtotrackdownagingerbeerplant(GBP)whichisessentiallyayeastcalledSaccharomycesflorentinusandabacteriumcalledBrevibacteriumvermiformeThesetwounlikelyfriendsformagelatinoussubstanceandasymbioticrelationshipwithinwhichtheyeastexcretes

alcoholandthebacteriumconsumesitYeasthasalowtoleranceofalcoholwhichofcourseremainslowduetothebacteriumGBPisbetterformakingdrinksthanordinaryyeastbecauseyouendupwithmuchbetterflavourslowalcoholandlittlechanceofdangerousexplosionsWeeventuallyfoundasupplieronlineandreceivedalittleenvelope

containingapacketofwhitejelly-likesubstanceyeastysweetandalcoholicWaitinglistspaymentsrefundsandrepaymentsfollowedAlittleresearchtoldusthataverycleverchapbythenameofHarryMarshallWarddiscoveredGBPrsquostalentforbrewingin1892WeusedJapaneserosepetalsRosarugosaastheyreallydoofferthefinest

flavourIfyoucanrsquotgettheseyoucouldtrydriedrosepetalsPleaseavoidrosesthathavebeensprayedwithchemicalsThegeneralruleisthatthepalervarietieshaveabetterflavour

MAKES2LITRES250gcastersugarjuiceandzestof1lemon25cmpieceoffreshgingerroughlychoppedahandfulofrosepetals1tbspGBP

ItisreallyimportanttosterilisealltheequipmentyouuseincludingthemuslinandstringYoucandothisbypouringboilingwaterovereverythingandthenleavingittodryPutthesugarandlemonzestinapanwith250mlwaterBringtoalightsimmerstirringtodissolvethesugarthenremovefromtheheatandleavetocool

Pour175litreswaterintoalargecontainer(alargeliddedplasticboxisfine)andaddthelemonjuicethiswillneutralisethechlorinegenerallypresentintapwaterwhichwouldotherwiseaffecttheyeastrsquosproductivityStraininthesugarandwatermixturePutthegingerinapieceofmuslintiewithstringanddropitinAddtheGBPthencoverandleaveatroomtemperaturefor5daysBesuretoopenthelidbrieflyeverydayinordertoletoutanycarbondioxidethathasbuiltupotherwiseitwillopenofitsownaccord

Strainthemixturethroughafinesieveintoasterilised2litreplasticbottle

Strainthemixturethroughafinesieveintoasterilised2litreplasticbottleandputonthetopSavetheGBPandgiveitarinseitwillhavegrown(Ifyoustoreitinthefridgeinasmallsterilecontaineritwillkeepforupto2weeks)After2daystheroselemonadewillbereadytodrinkalthoughifyoudesireafizzierbrewleaveitforlongerRefrigerationwillhaltanyfurtherfermentation

TheEthicureanCocktail

ThiscocktailhasquicklybecomeaclassicatTheEthicureanadelightfulbalanceofsweetsharpandsavouryAsthedayslengthenitmakesaperfectpre-dinnerdrinkinthegardenThymehasantisepticqualitiesasdohoneyandlemonmakingthisanexcellentpick-me-upwithorwithoutthevodkaInvestinginaninexpensiveBostoncocktailshakerisaverygoodideaIt

allowsyoutobuildandshakedrinkscontainingjuiceaeratingthemchillingthemquicklyandformingapleasingfrothMostbartenderswouldadvisethatshakingshouldbeusedonlywhendrinkscontainsomejuiceYouwillsignificantlylowerthetemperaturebyshakingbutexpectasmalllevelofdilutionfromtheiceIfalltheingredientsareclearstirringisthebetteroptionpreservingtheclarityofthedrink

SERVES1icecubesfrac14lemon2sprigsofthymeplus1toserve1tsphoney25mlChaseEnglishPotatovodka100mlapplejuice

Fillyourglasstotherimwithice

SqueezethewedgeoflemonintotheglasspartofaBostonshakerthendropinthesqueezedlemonwedgetogetherwiththethymeMashtogetherwithawoodenpestleAddthehoneypouringinjustalittlewarmwatertodissolveMeasureoutthevodkatherersquosnoharminadoubleifthewindtakesyouandpouritontotheotheringredientsAddtheapplejuiceandtopuptojustbelowtherimwithiceTapthetinontopoftheglassandshaketillwatercondensesontheoutsideoftheshakerSeparatebyusingtheheelofyourhandtoknockwheretheglassandtinaretouchingPourthoselastfewpreciousdropsintothetinthenplaceaHawthornestraineroverthetinandpourthemixtureintoyourchilledglassTopupwithiceandasmallsprigofthymethenaddmorejuicetotaste

HONEYANDTHYMESYRUP

WeliketomakeahalfandhalfsyruptouseinthecocktailaboveIfyouaremakingafewcocktailsitrsquosagoodwayofsavingtime

1tsphoneypercocktail1sprigofthymeforeverydrinkyouwouldlike

Placethehoneyandthymeinapanandadd1teaspoonofwaterforeveryteaspoonofhoneyBringgentlytoasimmerthenremovefromtheheatandleavetocoolStrainintoasterilisedcontainerandstoreinthefridgeitwillkeepfor2weeks

Negroni

TheNegroniisanenduringclassicThepreserveofbartendersandrestaurateursithasasatisfyingbitternessthatiswelcomeafteralongshiftWefindourselvessettledinbythesecondThiscocktailismorethanthesumofitspartsanditssuccessrestsonitsbalancedsimplicityWeuseourownVermouth(seehere)butAnticaFormulaandPunteMesmakesuperbonesWehavealsoservedthisdrinkwithasageleafasagarnishasitfindsa

harmoniousplaceamongstthearomaticsintheginandvermouth

SERVES11orange25mlgin25mlvermouth(seehere)25mlCampari

ChillatumblerwithicetoppedupwithwaterTakeafinesliceofzestfromtheorangeavoidingthebitterpithFillalargeglassonethirdfullwithiceandpourovertheginvermouthandCampariStiruntiltheoutsideoftheglasscondensesthenstrainintothechilledtumblerandsqueezealittleofthepreciousflavourfromtheorangezestBrushtherimofthetumblerwiththeorangezestthenpinchandsqueezeitovertheglasstoreleasetheessentialoilsTopupwithicetobelowtherim(aboveismostuncouth)thenslotinasliceoforange

Foratwisttrystirringacoupleoflovageleavesintothecontentsofthemixingglass

VERMOUTH

Althoughtheearliestreferencestoanaromatisedwinecropuparound1250BCinChinaandIndiaittookawhiletocatchoninEnglandPurlwasaseventeenth-centurybitteraleinfused

withwormwoodandafewotherbotanicalsmainlyusedtosettlethestomachBy1690lsquoStoughtonrsquosGreatCordialElixirrsquoaninfusionof22botanicalshadbecomeapopularcurefor

hangoversandgastricailmentslsquoDrankbymostgentlemenhelliptorecoverandrestoreaweakenrsquodstomachorlostappetitehellipoccasionedbyharddrinkingorsicknessrsquo(Imbibehere)

VermouthasweknowittodaybeganlifeintheregionaroundTurinItalyintheeighteenthcenturyRelativelysweetwithafull-bodiedherbaceousflavourthisdark-reddrinkwasfollowed

bydrierstraw-colouredstylesfromFranceinparticularChambeacuteryintheSavoieregion

RecipeList

FigsWrappedinPorkBellywithLavenderandBuffaloMozzarellaCaramelisedChicoryLabnehandMaceratedStrawberrySalad

RoastedTomatoandLiquoriceBasilSoupRoastedCourgetteandCobnutSoupwithLabnehandGinger

TurmericandMintDressingSousedMackerelCarrotFennelandSaffronwithGooseberryand

MintGranitaChilledBeetrootSoupPar-celWalnutIceCreamandRoasted

CobnutOilEwersquos-curd-stuffedCourgetteFlowerswithFennelSherbet

GlobeArtichokeswithHollandaiseSauceandSumacPeaGoatBaconandLovageBroth

ScallopsinPuffPastrywithVermouthandFennelCreamPickledPollackwithFlame-roastedPeppersCucumberPulBiber

ChilliandWaterMintDorsetBlueVinnyandFlame-roastedPepperswithCharredLittle

GemJohnDorywithMorelMushroomsFlatBeansHaricotBeansand

HamHockStockMusselsinCiderwithTarragon

SteamedMegrimSolewithRockSamphireandSumac-braisedFennel

PickledrocksamphireWaterBuffaloFilletwithClearChickenStockTarragonandSalt-

bakedBabyBeets

BarbecuedHorseMackerelwithCobnutSalbitxadaSauceFennelandSumacGravadTrout

WhiteRaspberryLoganberryandEwersquosYoghurtTerrinewithSweetCicelyConfit

ElderflowerSorbetwithFennelSherbetandWildStrawberriesPineappleWeedJelly

ElderflowerandLavenderMarshmallowsSpicedGingerBeer

SummerElderRawRhubarbSmash

DoubleSloeGinandTonic

SUMMERARRIVESWHENTHEcentralwalkwaythroughtheyewhedgeshasprogressedfromacarpettoagraduatingwallofcolourThisisMaddytheflowergardenerrsquosfavouritetimeastheperennialstaketheirplaceonthestageTherearenepetaachilleasalviaandgeraniums

OnMidsummerrsquosEvebonfirescanbeseenontheMendipsatduskastheoldpaganceremonyofstrengtheningthesuntakesplaceInthetrackthroughtheorchardthelavenderisbeginningtoflowersomeofitdestinedformarshmallowsservedtoastedtoorderintheglasshouseMarkcarriesupboxesofstrawberriesstillcoveredinstrawtheoddwoodlouseScramblingtosafetyThewildstrawberriesbarelyamouthfularepickedaswegathermintandthenewbright-greenlovageleaves

MatthewandPaucircladisappearforadaytotheirsamphirespotinSouthWalesTheyreturnwitharmfulsofthissaltyvegetablenotawhisperofthenameofthebeachTheropehanginginthedippingpondisaladderforthefirstdragonfliesoftheyeartakingwingThepondonceusedforwateringcansisteemingwithlife

MarkhassownsaladleavesthatresistboltingintheheatAnhourafterhepicksthemtheysitlayeredonplateswithpickledpollockandredpeppersWeroastthedeep-redpeppersandpurpleauberginesoveranopenflameuntiltheychangefromrichredandpurpletoashblackThesmellisperfectTheycoolbeforetheskinispeeled

Theelderhedgeprovidesuswiththefirststar-headedelderflowerswiththeirtranquilscentNextcometheberriesandsomewillbepickedunripetobepickledwithpepperandSaltndashwethinkofthemasSomersetcapers

IndescendingordertiedtofencepostsareraspberriesblackberriesloganberriesandwhiteraspberriesThesefruitsmaketheirwayintomyriadrecipessetcreamssorbetsjamsandvinegarsThewhiteraspberriesaremuddledincocktailsprovidinganaciditythatmakeslemonredundantAswefillcontainerswearecarefulnottopickahoneybeeIvorthebeekeeperarrivesandopensthehiveThequeenrsquoswingsareclippedsheismarkedandthenreturnedTheespaliersaredroopingundertheweightoffruitThereareapricotsgreengagesandVictoriaplumsOnthestovesitsanever-bubblingpanoffruitndashgreengageandvanillaperhapsorblackberrywith

bubblingpanoffruitndashgreengageandvanillaperhapsorblackberrywithbourbonwhiskey

TheartichokesplumpandgreenwithsharpscalesaresnippedoffaboveanysecondarybudsThekitchenmakesahollandaiseandtheglobesarecookedandplacedinabowlservedwiththisbutterysauceWithin20minutestherimissurroundedbystrippedpetalsandfingersreachfortheheart

MaddyrsquosflowersarejoinedbythebloomsofcampanulaechinaceaandpotentillaTheborderoutsidetheglasshouseisamovingriotofbutterfliesandhoneybeeswhiletheoddoneisskilfullyfreedfromthediningroom

BythistimethefoxgloveshavebeguntotumbleovertopheavywithblueflowersMeanwhilethefirstapplesarestartingtocropWorcesterPearmainBeautyofBathandCheddarGoldarecollectedintrugsandbasketsThedaysareshorteningandthecropsarepreservedpickledandstored

FigsWrappedinPorkBellywithLavenderandBuffaloMozzarella

CompromiseisdifficultwhenyouareabigfanoffigsTheyarewonderfulwhentheyareripebutnotreallyworthtastingatanyotherstageUnripefigshavegottobeoneofthemostdisappointingfoodsthereisTheproblemisthattheyaresodifficulttotransportthateitheryouhavetogrowthemyourselforbeclosetoagoodsourceContrarytopopularbelieffigtreesdogrowwellintheUKGrantedtheyarenomatchinsizeforsomeEuropeanvarietiesbuttheirfreshnessmakesupforwhatmightinitiallybeperceivedasadeficiencyThefigtreeattheWalledGardenneverceasestosurpriseusasitseemsto

beoblivioustothevolatilityoftheBritishweatherItlivesinablissfulstateofconstantexpansionextendingitsleafybrancheswithoutshameclaimingthefrontbrickarchwayasitsrightfulareaensuringthatallvisitorspassing

thefrontbrickarchwayasitsrightfulareaensuringthatallvisitorspassingthroughthetopgatearewelcomedbyitsgenerouspresenceAssummerprogressesopeningtheheavywoodengatewithoutdamagingthetreersquosbranchesbecomesmoreandmorechallengingItisalmostasifitistryingtoremindusofitshealthygrowtheverymorningThereisnoneedforsuchattention-seekingbehaviourItisoneofthemostwatchedtreesinourgardenThefigsaresoprecioustousthatwecannotriskanyofthembeingwastedFigshaveanaturalaffinitywithsaltyingredientsandarecommonly

servedwithprosciuttoHoweverwefindthatinthisdishthecrunchofthefigseedsisgreatlyenhancedbythecrispinessofthecuredporkbellyHoneyandfigsisanothercombinationthatworksremarkablywellWe

trieditwithlavenderhoneyandfoundthatitwasevenbetterItmadesensethentousestalksoflavendertoattachtheporkbellytothefigThecreaminessofthebuffalomozzarellaservestobalancethesweetnessof

thehoneyandfigswiththesaltinessoftheporkbellyTohaveaccesstoBritish-madebuffalomilkmozzarellafromLaverstokeParkFarmisassatisfyingashavingaBritish-madechorizosausage(seehere)Eachhassomanyapplicationsinthekitchenthatanychefseekingtousesolelylocalingredientshasmuchcausetocelebrate

SERVES48ripefigs1buffalomilkmozzarellaslicedinto8pieces16slicesofcuredporkbellysuchaspancetta16lavenderspearsfromlavenderinflower4tsplavenderhoney

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6WashanddrythefigstakingcarenottodamagetheskinCutacross2ndash3cmdeepthroughthestemofeachandopenthefiguplikeaflowerStuffasliceofmozzarellaintoeachfigthenwrap2slicesofcuredporkbellyroundtheoutsideSpikeeachfigwith2lavenderflowerspearstoholdtheporkinplaceduringbaking

Putthefigsinabakingdishdrizzlefrac12teaspoonoflavenderhoneyovereachoneandcookfor10ndash12minutesuntiltheporkbellyiscrispandthefigslightlycaramelisedCoolslightlybeforeserving

lightlycaramelisedCoolslightlybeforeserving

CaramelisedChicoryLabnehandMaceratedStrawberrySalad

ThearrivalofsummerattheWalledGardenoftentakesusbysurpriseThefirstsignisthequietmurmurofinsectsfromvariouscornersofthegardenthentheburstofcolourintheherbaceousbordersalongsidethecentralbrickpathAstheinsectsnoisilygatheraroundtheseflowerswerealisethatsummerhastiptoedinTherefollowschild-likeexcitementfromkitchenfolkandfront-of-housestaffalikeThearrivalofsummermeansmoreingredientstoexperimentwithandmoreexcusesforforaysaroundthegardenThissaladshowcasesallthatisgreatabouttheseasonStrawberriesare

particularlyimportanttotheSomersetareaNotfarfromusyouwillfindthefamousStrawberryLineanoldrailwaylinenowacyclepathwhichrunsthroughneighbouringvillagesBuiltintheVictorianeraittookitsnamefromthefamousCheddarstrawberriesthatusedtobecarriedalongthelinetoLondonInthisrecipeweusechicoryasacontrasttothetangysweetnessofthemaceratedstrawberries

SERVES4500gewersquosmilkyoghurtfrac12tspsalt120gmedium-sizedstrawberrieshulledandslicedverticallyinto3about200mlcidervinegar300gcastersugar6largeheadsofchicorycutintoquartersthroughtherooticingsugarfordustingalittlegroundcinnamonalittlecobnutoil(orhazelnutoil)afewborageflowers(optional)blackpepper

PreparethelabnehandstrawberriesadayinadvanceLineasievewithapieceofmuslinoraclothallowingtheendstooverhangthesievePuttheyoghurtinandmixinthesaltCovertheyoghurtwiththeendsofthe

yoghurtinandmixinthesaltCovertheyoghurtwiththeendsofthemuslinandthenplacethesieveoverabowlLeaveinthefridgeovernightThefollowingdayliquidwillhavecollectedinthebowlandtheyoghurtwillbethickerandcreamierDiscardtheliquidandspoontheyoghurtintoanairtightcontainerKeepinthefridgeuntilneeded

PuttheslicedstrawberriesinaplasticboxandpourinenoughcidervinegarjusttocoverthemCoverandleaveinthefridgeovernightThenextdaystrainoffthevinegarintoabowlAddthecastersugartoitandstirthoroughlyuntildissolvedPourthevinegaroverthestrawberriesandrefrigerateuntilneeded

Placeagriddlepanoveramedium-highheatuntilhotLightlydustthechicorywithicingsugarandthenplaceflat-sidedownonthegriddleCookwithoutmovingituntilitbeginstocarameliseunderneathandcharredlinesdevelopTurnthepiecesontotheirotherflatsideandrepeatthenflipthemontotheirroundedsideandcookuntiltenderRemovethechicoryfromthegriddlepanandsetasidetocoolalittle

Dividethechicorybetween4platesspreadingoutsomeoftheleavesDotthestrawberriesthroughoutthenaddseveralteaspoonsofthelabnehSprinklecinnamonoverthelabnehDresswithcobnutoilsomeofthemaceratingliquidfromthestrawberriesandborageflowersifyouhaveanyCoarselygrindsomeblackpepperoverthestrawberriesandserveimmediately

RoastedTomatoandLiquoriceBasilSoup

RoastingorcaramelisingvegetablescantransformanaveragesoupintosomethingtrulyspectacularPairitwithalittletexturalcontrastandburstsofflavouraswedoherewithbasilcroutonsandgoldentomatoandapplebalsamicjelliesandyouaregoingfarbeyondwhatmostpeoplehavecometoexpectwhentheyhearthewordsoupTheflavoursyoucanachievebyroastingtomatoesaregloriousIndeedit

ishardtothinkofaculinaryworldwithouttomatoesAsPaucirclaourresidentMexicanwillproudlytellyoutheyarenativetoMexicoTheSpaniardsbroughtthembacktosouthernEuropeforcultivationonamajorscaleDryingoutsomeofthemoisturefromthetomatoesintensifiestheirflavourandthebrowningfromtheroastingprocessaddsanewcomplexitytooneofourfavouriteingredientsTomatoesareagreatsourceofumami(seehere)WhentheyarecombinedwithmushroomstockinthisrecipeweachievesavouryheavenAddtothatawarminfusionofherbsandpiecesofthetomatovinewhichcontainsincrediblyfresharomatictomatoflavoursandweguaranteethatthisisasouptorivalanyyouhavehadbeforeWeuseastrainofliquoricebasilinthisrecipeastheanisenotesmakea

superbaccompanimenttotomatoMarkthegardenerspoilsuswithuniqueheritageorheirloomstrainsofplantsandherbseachwitharicherflavourthanthecommonhybridisedstrainsHegrowscinnamonbasilalongsidetomatoestoattractpestsawayfromtheredfruitplantsSeekoutaheritageorheirloomseedcompanyifyouareinterestedingrowingherbsastheywilldelightfromaculinaryaspectbutwillalsoprovideseedforthefollowingyearsGenovesebasilmammothbasilandMrsBurnslemonbasilareheirloomvarietieswellworthsearchingfor

SERVES4

SERVES41kgvine-ripenedtomatoesvinesreserved2garlicclovespeeled2bayleaves10sprigsofthyme20gbasilleaves(seehere)

rapeseedoilfrac14tspsmokedpaprika100mlmushroomstock(seehere)100mlwhitechickenstock(seehere)2dashesofWorcestershiresaucecidervinegar1tbsptomatopureacuteeseasalt

FORTHEGOLDENTOMATOJELLY(OPTIONALBUTRECOMMENDED)500ggoldentomatoesfrac14tspagaragarpowder

FORTHEAPPLEBALSAMICJELLY(OPTIONALBUTRECOMMENDED)200mlapplebalsamicvinegar(suchasAspallrsquos)frac12tspagaragarpowder

FORTHEBASILCROUTONS(OPTIONALBUTRECOMMENDED)

1thicksliceofsourdoughbreadcutinto1ndash2cmcubesrapeseedoiltocoat1ndash2tspicingsugar10gbasilleavesflakyseasalt

StartbypeelingthetomatoesTheeasiestwaytodothisistocutawidecrossatthebaseofeachtomatoscoringonlythroughtheskinHaveabowloficedwateratthereadyPutthescoredtomatoesinabowlpourboilingwateroverthemandleavefornomorethan30secondstheskinsshouldsplitwhereyoumadetheincisionRemovefromthewaterandplungestraightintotheicedwaterLeaveuntilcoldthenpeelofftheskins

Heattheovento180degCGasMark4Slicethetomatoesintoquartersandputtheminaroastingtraycut-sideupAddthegarlicclovesbayleaveshalfthethymesprigsandhalfthebasilleavesDrizzlewithenoughrapeseedoiltocoattheingredientslightlyandaddageneroussprinklingofseasaltPlaceintheovenandroastfor20ndash30minutesuntiltheedgesofthe

Placeintheovenandroastfor20ndash30minutesuntiltheedgesofthetomatoesbegintoblackenTakeoutoftheovenandleavetocoolRemovethebayleavesthymeandbasilanddiscard

Transferthetomatoesgarlicandtomatopureacuteetoablenderwiththesmokedpaprikaandblitzonfullspeedfor1minuteAddthemushroomstockandchickenstockandblitzforabout2minutesPassthroughafinesieveintoasaucepanaddtheWorcestershiresauceandbringtoasimmerImmediatelyremovefromtheheatandaddthereservedtomatovinesplustheremainingbasilandthymeLeavetoinfuseinawarmplacefor15minutesStrainthroughafinesieveoncemoreseasonwithsalttotasteandadashofcidervinegarforalittlewelcomeacidityIfyouleftthesouptoinfusesomewherewarmenoughitshouldstillbeagoodtemperaturetoeatIfyoupreferitalittlewarmerthenreheatquicklyandserveimmediatelyndashwithalloranyoftheoptionalgarnishesifyoulike

Ifmakingthejelliesitisusefultoknowthatagaragarwillremainstableuptoroughly80degCWeusuallyserveoursoupsaround75degC

Forthegoldentomatojellyblitzthetomatoestoapureacuteeinafoodprocessorfor2minutesPlaceinafinesievesetoverabowlandleavetodrainuntilyouhave200mlliquidPressgentlywiththebackofaladleifthetomatoesneedalittlecoaxingTasteandseasonwithsalttotastePuttheliquidinasaucepanandslowlyaddtheagaragarstirringconstantlyBringtotheboiloverahighheattohydratetheagaragarImmediatelyremovefromtheheatandpourintoasquareorrectangularTupperwarecontainerthatallowstheliquidtobe1cmdeepLeavetocooltheliquidwillsetTurnoutontoaboardandcutinto1cmcubesStorecoveredinthefridgeuntilneeded

FortheapplebalsamicjellyputthevinegarinasaucepanandslowlyaddtheagaragarstirringconstantlyBringtotheboiloverahighheatthenimmediatelyremovefromtheheatandpourintoasquareorrectangularTupperwarecontainerthatallowstheliquidtobe1cmdeepAllowtocoolandsetthencutinto1cmcubesasforthetomatojellyStoreinthefridgeDropthejellycubesintothehotsoupimmediatelybeforeserving

IfyouwanttoservethesoupwiththecroutonstossthecubesofbreadinalittlerapeseedoilandflakyseasaltuntillightlycoatedthensiftafineevenlayeroficingsugaroverthemPutthebreadinaroastingtraywiththebasil

layeroficingsugaroverthemPutthebreadinaroastingtraywiththebasilandplaceinanovenpreheatedto180degCGasMark4Cookfor5ndash10minutesuntilgoldenbrowntossinghalfwaythroughtoensureevenbrowningScatterthecroutonsoverthesouptoserve

WARMINFUSIONS

TheflavourofmostgreenherbsdullsafterevenashortperiodofcookingInfusingliquidsstocksandevensoupswithherbsatthelastminuteensuresthatthegreennotesofeachherbremainasfreshandpungentaswhentheywerepickedThemostcommonwaytoprepareawarminfusionistobringabout500mlliquidtotheboilremovefromtheheatimmediatelyandaddahandfulofherbsLeavetoinfusefor15ndash20minutesthenstrainthroughaveryfinesievetasteanduseimmediatelyWerecommendexperimentingwiththismethodOccasionallyyouwillneedmoreherbsthanyoumightexpecttogetthedesiredresult

moreherbsthanyoumightexpecttogetthedesiredresult

RoastedCourgetteandCobnutSoupwithLabnehandGingerTurmericandMintDressing

CourgettesarearelativelyrecentadditiontoBritishcookingbecomingwidelyknownonlyinthemidtwentiethcenturyasaresultofElizabethDavidrsquoswritingAdmittedlytheyarenotthemostfascinatingofvegetablesbutlabellingthemastastelessorwateryisunfairinourviewWhilsttheydohaveahighwatercontent(theyareafterallrelatedtowatermelonsandcucumbers)wewouldurgeanyonewhothinkstheyaretastelesstotrygrowingtheirownWhentheyaresmallandfreshtheyhaveasubtlenuttinessunlikeanyothermemberoftheCucurbitafamilytowhichtheybelongTheadditionoftoastedcobnutsinthisdishemphasisesthenuttinessinherentinourfreshproducemagnificentlyThereisanimpressiverowofcobnuttreesinthelowercornerofthe

WalledGardenResemblingagroupofwiselycontentelderstheseprosperousleafytreesareknownforbeingeasytokeepThisisprobablywhytheyarelovedbyallatBarleyWoodparticularlysquirrelsandchefs

SERVES81kgsmallfirmcourgettesslicedinto2cmpiecesrapeseedoil500gonionsfinelysliced250gcarrotsfinelysliced250gceleryfinelysliced1tbspsaltplusmoreforthefinalseasoning40gfreshcobnutsfinelychoppedthenlightlytoastedinadryfryingpan

FORTHELABNEH

500gyoghurtfrac12tspsalt1tbspfinelychoppedmarjoram1tbspfinelychoppedoregano

FORTHEGINGERTURMERICANDMINTDRESSING

85mlrapeseedoil

85mlrapeseedoil50mlcidervinegar1tspEnglishmustardfrac12tspgroundgingerfrac14tspgroundturmeric1tspchoppedmint

ThelabnehmustbemadeadayinadvanceLineasievewithapieceofmuslinandputtheyoghurtinitStirinthesaltcoverwiththeoverhangingendsofthemuslinandthensetoverabowlndashitshouldbedeepenoughtoallowtheliquidtodrainofftheyoghurtLeaveinthefridgeovernightThefollowingdaydiscardtheliquidunwrapthelabnehandputitinabowlStirintheherbsKeepinthefridgeuntilneeded

Tomakethedressingblendalltheingredientstogetheruntilwellcombinedthenseasonwithsalttotaste

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6TossthecourgetteswithalittlerapeseedoiluntillightlycoatedthenspreadthemoutinaroastingtrayPlaceintheovenandroastfor20minutesMeanwhileheatathinfilmofrapeseedoilinalargesaucepanaddtheonionscarrotsandceleryandsweatfor10ndash15minutesuntiltenderStirregularlyanddonotallowthevegetablestocolourAddtheroastedcourgettesandsweatfor5minuteslongerAddenoughwaterbarelytocoverthevegetablesandbringtoagentlesimmerAddthesaltandcookfor5minutesthendecantintoablenderinbatchesifnecessaryBlitzuntilsmooththenaddenoughwatertotakeittoyourdesiredconsistencywelikeitonthethinsideBlitzoncemorethenpassthroughafinesieveforavelvetymouthfeelSeasonwithsalttotaste(TheSoupcanbekeptinthefridgeforupto5daysatthispoint)ReheatgentlythenpourthesoupintoservingbowlsandfinisheachonewithatablespoonoflabnehasprinklingofchoppedcobnutsandadrizzleofthedressingServewithseededbreadandsaltedbutter

daggerCobnutsareoneofthemostwonderfulhistoricallyrichnativenutswehaveyetsurprisinglytheyaregreatlyunderusedinBritishcookingAvarietyofhazelnutthecobnuthasbeenpresentinourgardensandorchardssinceatleastthesixteenthcenturyHistoricallycobnutshavebeeninstrumentalinhedgerow-growingformingadenseboundaryto

keepdomesticlivestockcontainedTheykeepfreshformonthsandwerethusavaluablesourceofproteinforthoseatseaThemostcommonvarietytheKentishcobwasintroducedaround1830ItwasgrownsosuccessfullyinKentthatcultivationincreaseddramaticallyintheHomeCountiesfromwherecobnutscouldbequicklytransportedtoLondonDuringtheFirstWorldWarlabourintheUKbecamemoreexpensiveandthenativeplantscouldnotcompetewithimportedfruitandnutsThisledtothedemiseofplantsinKentculminatinginnear-extinctionbytheearly1990s

SousedMackerelCarrotFennelandSaffronwithGooseberryandMintGranita

MackerelareoneofthemoststunningfishinBritishwatersTheirstripygreenish-bluebackaffordsthemexcellentcamouflagefromabovewhiletheirsilverbellygivesanimpressivealmostethereallookastheyswimatgreatspeedinpurposefulshoalsThebesttimetoeatmackerelisinthesummerItisthenthattheygather

closetoshoreinsearchoffryallowingthemtobeeasilyline-caughtamoresustainablefishingmethodthannetsortrawlingItisalsowhentheystarttoputontheweightthatwillallowthemtoliveindeepwatersduringwinterTheadditionalweightisrichinomega-3fattyacidsandconsequentlytheyareOneofthehealthiestfishyouwillhavethepleasureofeatingWhenpurchasinglookoutforfirmshinyfleshandbrighteyesassignsoffreshnessSousingorpicklingmackerelisagreatwayofpreservingit

freshnessSousingorpicklingmackerelisagreatwayofpreservingitMackerelrsquospairingwithgooseberryisaclassiccombinationthathas

survivedthetestoftimeThenaturalpartnershipbetweenthesetwoingredientshasnotgoneunnoticedbytheFrenchwhonamedthegooseberrygroseilleagravemaquereauormackerelberrySadlygooseberriesarenotgrownintheWalledGardensowegetthemfromourfriendsattheCommunityFarmacoupleofmilesdowntheroadForaberrythatisregardedbysomeasaquintessentialBritishfruit

gooseberriesareprettyelusiveevenwheninseasoninJuneandJulyThefactthattheyhaveoftenbeencriticisedforbeingtootartmighthaveledtotheirdemise

SERVES4ndash61times350ndash500gmackerelfilleted8ndash12saffronstrands

FORTHECURE

100gfineseasalt100gcastersugar1tbspcorianderseeds

FORTHESOUSINGLIQUOR

250mlvintagecidervinegarsuchasOstlerrsquos100gcastersugar1staranisefrac14tspcorianderseedsfrac14tspblackpepper3saffronstrands1shallotveryfinelydiced2carrotsslicedintowafer-thinlongstripspreferablyonamandolinefrac12fennelbulbslicedwaferthinpreferablyonamandoline

FORTHEGOOSEBERRYANDMINTGRANITA

500ggooseberriestoppedandtailed100gcastersugar

10gmintleaves

ThisdishneedstobestartedatleastadayinadvanceRemovethebonesfromtheribcageofthemackerelfilletsusingapairofpliersortweezersNextlocatethebonesthatrundownthecentreofeachfilletWithanextremelysharpknifesliceatanangledownonesideofthebonesthendowntheothersideYouwillnowbeabletoremoveanddiscardthethinstripcontainingthebones

BlitzthecureingredientsinafoodprocessoruntilthecorianderseedsareasfineasthesaltandsugarSpreadthecuremixoutonaplatelargeenoughtoholdthemackerelfilletsPlacethemackerelonthecureskin-sideupcoverwithclingfilmandleaveinthefridgefor2hoursRemovefromthecurewashunderagentlyrunningtapandpatdrywithkitchenpaperPlaceinthefridge

ForthesousingliquorputalltheingredientsexceptthecarrotsandfennelintoasaucepanandbringtotheboilRemovefromtheheatandpouroverthecarrotskeepingthefennelseparateAllowtocooltoroomtemperaturethenchillCoverthemackerelintheliquorandleaveinthefridgeovernight

Tomakethegranitabring500mlwatertotheboilinasaucepanPutthegooseberriesinasteamerbasketandplaceoverthewaterCoverandsteamfor45minutesThesteambreaksdownthegooseberriesandtheirjuicedripsintothewaterThegooseberriesareleftwithlittleflavourafterwardssoarebestdiscarded

Removethepanfromtheheataddthesugartothegooseberry-flavouredwaterandstirtodissolveGentlyrollthemintleavesbetweenyourthumbandfingerthenputthemintheliquidandleavetoinfusefor20minutesRollingtheleavesbruisesthemslightlywithoutdamagingthemsothattheygiveoffmorearomaandflavourtheliquidmoreeffectivelyStraintheliquidthroughmuslinorafinesieveandleavetocoolthenchillPourintoaplasticboxandputinthefreezerLeavefor1houroruntilitrsquosstartingtosetaroundtheedgesthenremovefromthefreezerandrakestraightlinesfromtoptobottomwithaforkPlacebackinthefreezerfor30minutesandthenrakewithaforkagainRepeatuntilthegranitaiscompletelyfrozenintoicecrystalsItwillkeepinthefreezerforamonth

crystalsItwillkeepinthefreezerforamonth

WhenthemackerelhashaditsnightinthefridgeremoveitfromthesouseandpatdryCutthefilletsinto1ndash2cmstrips(thethintailsectionsmakeatastysnackwhileyouplateuptherestofthedish)ThesousingliquorwillbealittlecloudyafterthemackerelhasspentsometimeinitIfyouareusingthisrecipeforadinnerpartyandwanttogivetheextrawowfactorthendiscardtheliquidandmakeafreshbatchThiswillgivegreatclaritytothefinisheddish

ToservebunchsomefennelinthecentreofeachservingbowlandplacethemackerelarounditRollthecarrotsintoribbonsandarrangethemaroundthemackerelPourinenoughofthesousingliquidjusttocoverthebottomofeachbowlPlaceatablespoonofthegranitaontopofthefennelandfinishwithacoupleofstrandsofsaffronineachbowl

daggerMackerelhasbeenafavouritefishinBritainforcenturiesItformedthebasisoftheRomanliquamenalsoknownasgarumafermentedfishsauceusedincookingandwhichtheybroughtwiththemtotheBritishIslesRecordsshowthatasearlyas1353DanielRoughtheclerkofRomney

KentandaprominentfishmongersoldmackereltothelocalsBythe1660sitseemsthatmackerelhadbecomepopularfurtherinlandasitstartscroppingupinbreakfastdishesoftheperiodSuchwideravailabilitymighthavebeentheresultofanActofParliamentpassedin1669whichfinallydeclaredthatLondonrsquosfishmarketatBillingsgatecouldopensixdaysperweek

daggerContrarytocommonbeliefthegooseberryisnotanativeberryOriginallycultivatedincoolerareasofEuropeitgrowssowellinBritishsoilthatitquicklybecamenaturalisedRecordsfromtheroyalgardenatWestminstershowthatbusheswereplantedinthethirteenthcenturyBythenineteenthcenturygooseberrieswerecultivatedonalargecommercialscaleCompetitivegooseberry-growingclubswereestablishedallovertheUKandthequesttofindthebestandbiggestfruitwastakenextremelyseriouslyUnfortunatelyintheearly1900stheentiregooseberrycropwaswipedoutduetoamildewdiseasebroughtinfromtheUnitedStatesLuckilyforourBritishpalatestheplantwasreintroducedalthoughitneverregainedthepopularityithadenjoyedintheVictorianera

ChilledBeetrootSoupPar-celWalnutIceCreamandRoastedCobnutOil

DuringourfirstsummerattheWalledGardenwenoticedwithsomedegreeofsurprisethatwhenevertherewasevenaslightindicationofsunnyweathercustomerswouldignorethefreshlymadehotsouponthemenupreparedwithvegetablespickedfromthegardenthatsamemorningThischilledbeetrootsoupprovedtobeanacceptablealternativeTherecentsuccessofbeetrootinBritishcookingmustbedueatleastin

parttoitswonderfulcombinationofsweetnessandearthinessItsearthyaromacomesfromgeosminanorganiccompoundfoundinbeetsandthe

aromacomesfromgeosminanorganiccompoundfoundinbeetsandthesameionicaromayougetduringrainafteradryspellThisscentisdetectablebythehumannoseatverylowconcentrationsWalnutsareaperfectmatchfortheearthytasteofbeetroottheirbitternessbalancedbythesubtlesweetnessofthisgeosmingemMarkgrowsafascinatingparsleyandcelerycrosscalledpar-celItisso

pungentthatyouneedonlyasmallamountasanalternativetocelery

SERVES61kgbeetrootcutinto2cmdice500gonionscutinto2cmdice250gcarrotscutinto2cmdice1litrebeefstock(seehere)2tablespoonschoppedpar-cel(oruse250gceleryandahandfulofparsleystalks)

seasaltroastedcobnutoiltoserve(weuseoilfromHurstwoodFarminKentseeourlistofFriendsandSuppliersonhere)FORTHEWALNUTICECREAM

225gclottedcream75gwalnutsfinelychopped

TomakethewalnuticecreamsimplystirboththeingredientstogetherthenfreezeinaplasticboxBecauseofthehighfatcontentthecreamwillstillbesupplewhenfrozenandbeautifulscoopedswirlscanbemadebypullingaspoonoverthesurfacejustbeforeservingthesoup

Putthebeetrootonionsandcarrotsintoapanwiththebeefstockandpar-celthenaddenoughwatertocoverthevegetablesBringtotheboilcoverandsimmerfor35minutesoruntilthevegetablesaretenderbutnotfallingapartPourthecontentsintoacolandersetoverabowlandleaveuntilthoroughlydrainedTastethestockandseasonwithsalttotasteItwillbeadarkrichcolourandheavilyredonthespoonWatchyoursummerwhites

ThesoupistheliquidthatcomesfromdrainingthevegetablessoleavethistocoolandthenchillIfyouneedtochillthesoupquicklyplaceicecubesinafreezerbagsealitandfloatitintheliquidAlternativelymakethesouponthesamedayasthewalnuticecreamandchillitovernightThevegetables

thesamedayasthewalnuticecreamandchillitovernightThevegetablesthathavebeencookedinthestockcanbereservedandservedasamashonanotheroccasion(mashtherootsandonionsseasonwithsaltbutterandchoppedtarragonreheatgentlyandservewithleftoversmustardisgreattolivenituptoo)

Servethesoupchilledwithaspoonfulofthewalnuticecreamandasmatteringofrichroastedcobnutoilwhichwillshimmeronthesurfacealluringly

daggerWalnutsareoneofthemostpopularnutsinBritainhistoricalrecordsshowthatwalnuttreesweregrownintheearlymedievalperiodTheyareagluttonrsquosdelightSinceharvestswereuncertainfromoneyeartothenextitwasthoughtacceptabletoeatasmanywalnutsaspossiblewhentheharvestwasplentifulWalnutswerethoughttohelpdigestionsotheywereeatenwholeattheendofthemealOnecanimaginethatthisbeliefdespitebeingtotallyunfoundedwouldhaveencouragedpost-mealconversationwhichisprobablythereasonthetraditioncontinuedwellintothetwentiethcentury

Ewersquos-curd-stuffedCourgetteFlowerswithFennelSherbet

CourgetteflowershaveneverreallybeenpopularintheUKPaucirclahasfondmemoriesofeatingtheminquesadillasinMexicowhenshewasachildSheusedtobuythematastallonhergrandmotherrsquosstreetclosetothemarketwheretheywouldarriveeverymorningincopiousamountsaddingatouchofsunshinetoanalreadycolourfulstallShetalkedaboutthemsomuchthattheywereoneofthefirstdishesMatthewtriedwhenhetravelledtoMexicotomeetPaucirclarsquosfamilySincethenwehavewonderedwhethertheirlackofpopularityintheUKisdowntothegeneralviewthatcourgettesdonottasteofmuchatallandconsequentlythattheirflowersdonrsquoteitherTheygrowwellheresothereshouldcertainlynotbeashortageofflowersinthesummerItwouldbeanabsolutepleasureforusiftheBritishcouldadoptthecourgettefullyintotheircookingInthisdishtheflowersarebakedndashprimarilysothattheewersquoscurdmelts

becomingcreamierbutalsobecausetheytendtobealittlebitspikywhenrawNotonlydotheylookfantasticontheplatebutsurelyfewotherflowersepitomisesummersoeffectivelyWedareanyonenottothinkofsunshinewhenpresentedwithabright-yellowcourgetteflowerThefennelsherbetaddsatouchoffreshnesstobalancethemilkycobnuts

SERVES41yellowand1greencourgette8courgetteflowersstamensremoved160gfreshewersquoscurd40gfreshcobnutslightlycrushedcobnutorhazelnutoilfordrizzling

FORTHEWILDFENNELSHERBET

100gicingsugar2tspcitricacid1tspbicarbonateofsoda1tbspwildfennelseeds(orordinaryfennelseeds)

Tomakethesherbetputalltheingredientsinablenderandblitzuntilthe

Tomakethesherbetputalltheingredientsinablenderandblitzuntiltheseedsarefinelygroundthenpassthroughafinesieve(Itwillkeepinanairtightcontainerforuptoamonthandisgreatwithicecreamsandsprinkledoverotherdesserts)Heattheovento200degCGasMark6Topandtailthecourgettesthencutthemalongtheirlengthinwafer-thinslicesusingamandolineorvegetablepeelerStufftheflowerswiththeewersquoscurdTodothiswefillapipingbagwiththecurdandplacethetipofthenozzleintheflowerbeforefillingAlternativelyyoucouldjustgentlyopenuptheflowersandspooninthecurdPlacetheflowersonaroastingtrayandbakefor2ndash3minutesuntilthecheesehasmeltedandthetipsoftheleavesarebeginningtocrispalittleRemovefromtheovenandkeepwarm

Arrangethecourgetteribbonsdecorativelyon4servingplatesandplacethestuffedflowersamongstthemLightlyscatterwiththecobnutsaddadrizzleofoilandthendustwiththefennelsherbet

GlobeArtichokeswithHollandaiseSauceandSumac

TheinspirationforthisdishcomesfromPaucirclaItwasthemostrequesteddishinherMexicangrandmotherrsquosvastrepertoireandwithgoodreasonShedidnotalwayssayyestothisparticularrequestasitwastrulyalabourofloveIttooksolongtopreparethatshewouldwaitforaspecialoccasionwhensheknewmostofthefamilywouldbepresentOnlythenwouldshestartthelaborioustaskofcarefullyplacingasliceofpanelacheesebetweeneachartichokeleafTheclosershegottothecentreoftheartichoketheharderthisbecameShewouldthencoverthemwithasecretmixtureinvolvingbreadcrumbsandeggsbeforedeep-fryingTherewasatleastoneartichokeforeachmemberofthefamilyandsinceitwasnotthesmallestfamilyyoucanimaginehowlongthewholeprocesstookForPaucirclaitsymbolisescommunaleatingwithplentyofstoriesandconversationbeforeyoureachedtheartichokersquoshearteatenwithagenerousamountoffreshlysqueezedlimejuiceandwasheddownwithamezcal(forthosewhowereoldenough)GlobeartichokesaremembersofthethistlefamilyAlthoughtheyare

availableallyearroundtheyareattheirbestduringthesummerThedayMarkthegardenerhandedussomeglobeartichokesstraightfromthegardenweknewwewantedtoreplicatetheideaofcommunalartichokeeatingWecameupwithhollandaisesaucewithsumacfordippingtheleavesintoItrsquosalsoprettygoodwithananchovyandcregravemefraicircchedip(seehere)whichmakesasimpleralternativetothehollandaiseoryoucanservethembothAwordofwarningisneededherethisisnotadishforthefastidiouseater

UsingyourfingersisprettymucharequirementanditishighlylikelythatyouwillneedtolickthemattheendDonrsquotbotherwithserviettestheywillonlyhamperyourenjoymentPlacetheartichokeplatewiththebowlofhollandaiseinthecentreinthemiddleofthetableandpeelofftheouterleavesfromyourartichokeDipthemintothehollandaisesauceandsumacbeforeeatingthetenderflesharoundthebaseofeachleafPaucirclarsquosgrandmotherwouldnodoubtapprove

SERVES44largeglobeartichokesstalksremoved

HollandaiseSauce(seehere)andorAnchovyCregravemeFraicirccheDip(seehere)toservealittlesumacforsprinkling

UsingapairofscissorscutthetipofeachspikyleafofftheartichokesThesespikesarenotsuchfuntoeatPuttheartichokesinasteamerandsteamoveragentleheatfor25minutesoruntiltender

Meanwhilewhipupthehollandaisesauceortheanchovycregravemefraicircchedip(orboth)Putthemintobowlsandsprinklethehollandaisewithsumac

RemovetheartichokesfromthesteamerandserveonaplateHaveasparebowlatthesidetodiscardtheinediblepartsoftheleavesStartpeelingtheleavesawayfromtheartichokeThebaseofeachleafyieldsasmallfleshymorselDipthebaseintothesaucesandeatstraightofftheleafdiscardingtherestoftheleafEveryleafyoueatwillyieldmoreandmoreediblefleshuntilyougettotheheartoftheartichokendashundoubtedlythebestbitndashbuttakecaretoremovethehairylayeroflsquochokersquo

PeaGoatBaconandLovageBroth

Baconandpeashasbeenaclassiccombinationsincethe1600swhenaccordingtoAlanDavidsonrsquosOxfordCompaniontoFood(OxfordUniversityPress1999)theyweresoldasstreetfoodlsquohotgreypeaseandasuckofbaconrsquoThepeaswouldhavebeendriedbutwefavourfreshpeaswhicharegrownbyMarkthegardenerInsteadofordinarybaconweuseourownlsquogoatbaconrsquoorcuredgoatloinIthasrichcuminovertonesfromthesimplecureandispleasantlysaltyLovageandpeasworkwelltogetherThisisworkingfoodndashitlooksandtasteslikeadishthatshouldbeeaten

afteraharddayinthegardenThegoatbaconneedstobemadeseveraldaysbeforerequiredbutoncecureditwillkeepfortwoweeksandcanbeusedinthesamewayasordinarybaconYourbutchershouldbeabletoordergoatloinforyoubutifyoucanrsquotgetholdofitsubstituteporktenderloin

SERVES41kgunshelledfreshpeasrapeseedoil4smallredonionsor8springonionscutintoquarters1litrewhitechickenstock(seehere)abunchoflovageleavesasplashofcidervinegarifneededseasalt

FORTHEGOATBACON

2goatloinsweighing250ndash350geachsilvermembraneremoved20gfineseasalt10gdarkmuscovadosugar1tspfennelseeds2tspcorianderseeds1tbspcuminseedsfrac12tspblackpeppercorns

FirstmakethebaconTietheloinstogetherwithseverallengthsofbutcherrsquosstringatintervalsof5cmorsoPlacethesaltsugarandspicesinafoodprocessororspicegrinderandblitztoafinepowderLaytheloinsonalarge

pieceofclingfilmatleast4timesaswideastheloinsCoverwiththespicemixtureandwraptightlyintheclingfilmPlaceinalargeplasticcontainerandleaveinthefridgefor5ndash7daysturningonceadayDonotdrainoffanyliquidthatescapesduringthistime

RemovethebaconfromthefridgewashoffallthespicesunderacoldtapandpatdryonkitchenpaperHangthemeatinawarmwell-ventilatedareasuchasthekitchenoranairingcupboardfor12hoursoruntilitiscompletelydrytothetouchndashatemperatureof25degCisidealsoadjustthetimeyouhangthemeataccordinglyWhenthebaconisreadyitshouldhaveadistinctsweetgoatsmellandberichincumin

ShellthepeasensuringyouhavesomethingelsetonibbleordrinkalongsidendashotherwiseyoursquollbeluckytohaveanyleftbytheendHeatalittlerapeseedoilinasaucepanaddtheonionsandfryuntillightlycolouredUsingalargesharpknifecut15slicesfromthegoatbaconthethicknessofbaconrashersAddthemtothepanandfrytilltheytakeonsomeofthecaramelcolourfromtheonionsAddagoodsplashofthechickenstockstirringtodeglazethepanPourintheremainingstockthenaddthelovageleavesandthepeasBringtoasimmerandcookforacoupleofminutesuntilthepeasaretenderTastethebrothanddecidewhetheritrequiressaltandasplashofcidervinegarVinegarwillcutthroughthefattinessofadishandcalmanysaltinessAbigbowlofpeasforteaHappypeadaysforsure

ScallopsinPuffPastrywithVermouthandFennelCream

ThislookslikeaverysimpledishalmostasifithadjustbeenpluckedfromtheshorelineChoosethecurvedshellofthescalloptoservetheminratherthantheflatoneThepastrycoverleavesyourgueststhetaskofdiscoveringwhatyouhaveplacedbeneathSincescallopsneedverylittlecookingandtheshellsconductheatsowellalltheingredientsquicklysteamunderthepastryasitcrispsintheovenThedishcanbeassembledinadvancekeptchilledandthenfinishedin10minutes(addacoupleofminutestothecookingtimeiftheyrsquovebeenkeptinthefridge)ThesauceisbasedonasimplereductionReducingliquidbyboilingit

rapidlyforcesittoevaporatecausingittothickengraduallyThecombinationoffishstockvermouthandcreambeginsassweetandrichandendsupwithasavouryandsatiatingbitternessafterbeingreducedFennelisaningredientinsomevermouthsandhasatriedandtestedaffinitywiththebotanicalflavoursinourvermouth(seehere)Thescallopscanbeservedonfennelfrondsthosefeatheryleavesatthetopofthefennelbulb

SERVES6150mlfishstock(seehere)75mlsinglecream50mldryvermouth(forourhouseVermouthseehere)6diver-caughtscallopsincludingtheorangeroeplustheirshells1smallcarrot1smallonionfrac14smallbronzefennelbulb320gpuffpastry(forhomemadeseehere)1eggbeatenwithapinchofsalttoglazeseasaltandblackpepper

Putthefishstockinaheavy-bottomedpanplaceoverafairlyhighheatandletitboilawayvigorouslyuntilreducedbyhalfitsvolumeAddthecreamandvermouthandcontinuetoboiluntilthesaucehasthickenedandreducedbyhalfagainTasteandaddsaltifneededthenremovefromtheheatand

leavetocool

Sliceeachscallophorizontallyinto3iftheyarethickenoughtodosoorinhalfiftheyarealittlesmallerCutthecarrotintomatchstick-sizedpiecesandfinelydicetheonionCutthefennelbulbquarterintoveryfineslicesAddalayerofeachvegetabletoeachcurvedscallopshellandplacethescallopslicesontopPouracoupleoftablespoonsofthesauceovereachscallopandcracksomeblackpepperoverthem

Rolloutthepastryonalightlyflouredworktopto2ndash3mmthickCutitinto6squareslargeenoughtocoverthescallopshellsPressthepastryontotheedgeofeachshellworkingrounditwithyourthumbsothesharpshellcutsthroughtrimmingofftheexcessThiswillsealtheedgesatthesametimeCoverwithclingfilmandchilluntilneeded

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6Brushthepastrywiththebeateneggandplacetheshellsintheovenfor8minutesoruntilthepastryislightlycoloured

PickledPollackwithFlame-roastedPeppersCucumberPulBiberChilliandWaterMint

PollackmakesasuperbsustainablealternativetoitscloserelativescodandhaddockwhichhavebecomeoverfishedalmosttothepointofextinctioninsomepartsoftheworldItsflakytextureisverysimilartothatofthebetter-knownwhitefishyetithassufferedabadreputationinthepastandhasbeencriticisedforbeingtastelessEventheillustriousJaneGrigsoninherbookFishCookery(MichaelJosephLtd1973)relegatedittothequalityofaMondayfishratherthanaFridayoneWecouldnotdisagreemoreTheearthinessoftheroastedpeppersperfectlycomplementstheacidityinthepickledfishwiththecucumberandmintaddingatouchoffreshnessThedishisfinishedwithascatteringofpulbiberchilliAlsoknownasAleppopepperthisisafruitymedium-hotchilliwithcuminovertonesasaltytasteandanoilyfinishItmarrieswiththemintexceptionallywellScallopsmakeagreatalternativetopollackinthisrecipe

SERVES4650ndash750gpollackfillet4tbspcoarseseasalt2redpeppers1cucumberahandfulofwatermint(orgardenmint)100glandcressorwatercressjuiceof4limesmixedwithequalpartsofcidervinegarafewpulbiber(Aleppo)chilliflakes

ThefirstjobistocurethefishbysaltingitndashthisdrawssomeofthewaterfromitScatterthecoarsesaltoveraplasticorwoodentrayandplacethefishonitskin-sideupCoverwithclingfilmandplaceinthefridgefor1frac12hoursnomoreInthemeantimeflame-roastthepeppers(seehere)andslicethemintostripsSlicethecucumberintolongstripsbypullingavegetablepeelerdownitslengthandwashandpatdrythemintandcress

RemovethefishfilletfromthefridgerinseoffanyresidualsaltandpatdrywithkitchenpaperItwillhavefirmedupnicelymakingthenextstepeasier

withkitchenpaperItwillhavefirmedupnicelymakingthenextstepeasierwhileseasoningatthesametimeWithasharpknifecuttingawayfromyouatanangleslicethinstripsoffishfromtheskinandplacetheminthelimejuiceandvinegarmixtureTheacidwilleffectivelylsquocookrsquothefishbyloweringitspHlevelThisforcescoagulationinthesamewayheatdoesbutmoreslowlyFinelyslicedasitisthefishwillneedamaximumof20minutesforthistohappenYouwillseeitturnwhiteassoonasitlandsintheliquid

ArrangethewatercresscucumberslicesofpepperandmintontheplatesPlacethepollackslicesamongsttheleavesanddustwithafewpulbiberflakes

DorsetBlueVinnyandFlame-roastedPepperswithCharredLittleGem

ThissaladissimplesummerfoodanddeservestobecookedandassembledinallitspartsoutsideFlame-roastingisourfavouritewayofcookingpeppersThesmokeimpartsadepthofflavourthatactsasagreatcontrasttotheirinherentsweetnessWeliketocookthemonabarbecuewhenthefirehasdiedawayandthecoalsaresearinglyhotThepeppersarelaidinaspiralformationdirectlyonthecoalsandturnedoverinorderastheirskinsturntoslateblackLeavingthemonthebarbecuefortoolongwillmakepeelingthecharredskinverydifficultsoanattentiveeyeisneededWeoftencookauberginesinthesamewayonthebarbecueoragashob

OncetheskinshaveblackenedmakesurethatyoudonotloseanyofthepreciousjuicethatiscontainedwithinthefruitIthasaflavourthatmustbeexperiencedWelikecorianderseedsherefortheirgentlegrassyorange-likeflavour

aswellasalittlegroundcorianderWealsodropafewcorianderflowersintothesaladTheirflavourismilderthancorianderleavesandatfirstglancetheyresemblecowparsleyDorsetBlueVinnyisastapleinourkitchenApieceontheripersideisblendedwithcregravemefraicircchetomakeasauce

SERVES4ASAMAINCOURSE6ndash8ASASTARTER2Romeropeppers200ndash250gnewpotatoescutinto1cmpieces6ndash8LittleGemlettucesvegetableorrapeseedoilforbrushing300gmixedlettuceleavesTheEthicureanSaladDressing(seehere)6ndash8corianderflowerheadsgroundcorianderfordusting2tspcorianderseedslightlycrushed

FORTHEDORSETBLUEVINNYSAUCE

50gDorsetBlueVinnyroughlychopped

50gDorsetBlueVinnyroughlychopped150mlcregravemefraicirccheseasalt

BeginbyroastingthepepperseitheronabarbecueasdescribedaboveoronagashobasfollowsturnagasringonfullplacethepeppersdirectlyontheflameandleaveuntiltheskinbeginstoblisterandblackenUsingmetaltongsturnthepeppersandrepeatontheothersideItispossibletoovercookthepeppersbythismethodsocareisneededtoensurethatonlytheskinisincontactwiththeflame(IfyoudonothaveagashobthencutthepeppersverticallyinhalfandremovetheirseedsLightlyoiltheskinandplaceunderahotgrilluntiltheskinblistersandblackens)Assoonasthepeppersareblackenedalloverplaceinasmallbowlcoverwithclingfilmandleavefor20minutes

Meanwhilecookthepotatoesinboilingsaltedwaterforabout12minutesuntilaknifetippassesthroughthepotatowithlittleresistanceDrainandleavetocool

PuttheDorsetBlueVinnyandcregravemefraicirccheinablenderorfoodprocessorandblitzuntilsmoothSeasonwithsalttotasteIfthecheeseistoostrongforyourlikingsimplylengthenitwithalittlemorecregravemefraicircche

WithalightlydampenedclothorhandtowelrubthepepperstoremovetheblackenedskinSplittheminhalfandremovetheseedsTearthepeppersverticallyalongtheirnaturallsquograinrsquointostripsabout5ndash10mmthickandsetaside

PlaceagriddlepanoverahighheatLightlybrushtheoutsideofeachLittleGemlettucewithrapeseedorvegetableoilPutthemonthegriddlepanandleaveundisturbeduntiltherearecharredlinesunderneathTurnandrepeatonallsidesuntiltheleavesarecolouredandtenderAvoidovercookingthemwhichwouldresultintoodarkacolourandacrisptextureSetasideinawarmplace

PutthecharredLittleGemonservingplatesamongstthemixedleavesScatterthepotatoesaroundandlightlydresstheleaveswiththesaladdressingDotthepepperstripsthroughouttheleavesandadddropsoftheBlueVinnydressingSeparatethecorianderheadsintosmallerflowersand

usetogarnishthesaladDustwithgroundcorianderandafewcrushedcorianderseeds

JohnDorywithMorelMushroomsFlatBeansHaricotBeansandHamHockStock

MorelmushroomshaveanaturalaffinitywithfishandmakeaparticularlyfinecompaniontoJohnDoryJackcanrememberpreppingthisfishduringhisfirstjobasakitchenporterThespinesweresharpbutthecookedfishwasarevelationAlittlefishmongeringisrequiredherendashitrsquosnotatallcomplicatedifyou

wanttogiveitagoyourselfThefilletsonJohnDoryareconnectedonlylightlyandcanalmostbeprisedfreewiththumbsaloneoncethespineisremovedwithscissorsTheoutsideofthefishshowsadistinctarcedlinethatsweepsinagentlelsquosrsquoThisiswherethespinerunsandisakeyidentifierinunderstandingitssimpleyetbeautifulanatomyIfyouarenewtofilletingjusttakeyourtimeanduseyourfingerstofeelaroundthebonesasyougoAknifeshouldonlyreallybeneededtocoaxthefilletsfreeinsomeplacesBythetimeyouhaveextractedthefourfilletsyouwillwellandtrulyunderstandtheprocessJohnDoryisoneofthefirstfishwelettheyoungrsquounsprepareattherestaurantWeonlygivethemonewarningonanykindoffishdonrsquotrubyourhandupwardsfromtailtoheadastheyarealwaysspikythiswayTherehaveneverbeenanycomplicationsandallcomeawaybeamingathavingmasteredanewskillSomefishhavedelicateskinswhichmakeverygoodeatingJohnDory

skinisoneofourfavouritesThesecrettoensuringitiscrispanddeliciousistomakesureitisverydrybeforecookingRemovethefishfilletsfromthefridgeandplacethemflesh-sidedownonaboardRunaknifesidewaysovertheskinlikeasqueegeeonawindowandasurprisingamountofliquidwillbefreedPatthisawaywithkitchenpaperandthefishwillbereadytocookHamandharicotbeanisaclassicpairingPulsescanbecookedwitha

pigrsquostrotterwhichaddsglossandsheenfromthegelatineinthebonesInthisrecipeweusehamhockstocktodothesamejob

SERVES4300gharicotbeanssoakedin2changesofcoldwaterfor12ndash24hoursthendrained

5gdriedmorelmushroomscidervinegar

cidervinegarabout400mlhamhockbroth(seehere)abunchofflat-leafparsleyorlovage200gflatbeans(alsoknownasheldabeans)trimmedandcutintobite-sizedchunks

rapeseedoil2JohnDoryweighing500ndash750geachfilleted(askyourfishmongertodothisifyouprefer)

flakyseasalt

CoverthesoakedbeanswithfreshwaterandbringtotheboilReducetheheatandsimmerfor35minutesuntiljustcookedbutstillwithalittlebiteDrainandsetaside

Coverthemushroomswithhotwateraddasplashofcidervinegarandleavethemtosoftenfor20minutesMorelsaretypicallyfoundonsandysoilandhavemyriadcavitiesinwhichthiscangettrappedGentlymassagethesoftenedmushroomstohelpfreeanysandorgritwhichwillsinktothebottomofthewaterOncethemorelsarecleanpourthevaluableearthyliquidintoacupdiscardingthesandydregsSlicethemushrooms

PutthedrainedbeansinasaucepanthenaddthemushroomsoakingliquidandenoughhamhockbrothtocoverthemjustbarelyAddtheslicedmorelsacoupleofstalksfromtheparsleyorlovageandtheflatbeansandbringtoasimmerCookstirringoccasionallyuntilthestockhasreducedenoughtocoatthebeansRemovefromtheheatseasonandcoverwithalid

Placealargeheavy-basednon-stickfryingpanoveramediumheatandletitheatupAddenoughrapeseedoiltocreatealargepuddleItmightsmokelightlyasitheatsthisisagoodindicatorthatitisreadytocookinSprinkleflakysaltontheskinsideofthefishandlaythefilletsskin-sidedownintheoilIfyoucanfitonly2filletsinthepancookthemin2batchesastheskinwonrsquotcrispifthepaniscrowdedIfyouhavesomesmallramekinsplaceoneonthemiddleofeachfillettoholditflatResisttheurgetomovethefilletsinthepanAfter3ndash4minutesthefishshouldhaveturnedwhitearoundtheedgesandthroughtothetopexposedfleshTheextremeedgeswillalsobegintobrownalittleOncethebandofwhiteattheedgeofthefishhas

begintobrownalittleOncethebandofwhiteattheedgeofthefishhasworked1ndash2cminwardsthenyoucanliftthefishslightlywithafishsliceandpeerunderneaththeskinshouldbealightcaramelcolourTurnthefilletsoverandremovethepanfromtheheatTheresidualheatwillbemorethansufficienttocooktheothersidewithinaminuteortwo

Servethefishalongsidethecookedbeanswithchoppedflat-leafparsleyorlovage

daggerJohnDoryisbesteatenwhensummerdrawstoacloseasJunetoAugustisthebreedingseasonIthasalargeeye-likepatchonitsflankthatconfusesbothpredatorsandpreytheformerfearingalargerfishandthelattermistakingitforamouthApopularlegendisthatthemarkonaJohnDoryisthethumbprintofStPeterthekeeperofthegatesofheavenThoughcoveredinspinesandyieldingaprehistoric-lookingflatbodyJohnDoryisafearfullytastynativefish

MusselsinCiderwithTarragon

MusselsareoneofourfavouriteshellfishWearetrulyaddictedtothemandfeelyoucanneverhaveenoughItisperhapswithoutmuchobjectivitythereforethatwewouldclaimtheyareoneofthemostoutstandingfoodstobefoundintheBritishIslesWehaveintroducedaWestCountrytwisttothisclassicrecipewiththe

additionofamedium-drylocalcidercalledPerryrsquosDabinettbutanygoodmedium-drycidercanbesubstitutedRatherthanusingfishstockweoptforthedeeplyrichandmeatypressure-cookedchickenstockthatisanessentialpartofourkitchenroutine(seehere)ChickenandciderhaveagreataffinitywitheachotherandyouwillsoonseewhythecombinationworkssowellinthisdishThelsquobridgingrsquoflavouristhetarragonIfyoudonrsquothaveanyyoucansubstitutestaranise

SERVES2(OR4ASASTARTER)1ndash15kglivemusselsrapeseedoil3shallotsslicedintohalfmoons1garlicclovecrushedunderaknifeandthenfinelysliced250mlmedium-drycider250mlbrownchickenstock(seehere)100mldoublecream4sprigsoftarragonseasaltsourdoughbreadtoserve

ItisimportanttocleanthemusselsandcheckthattheyarealivebeforecookingRinsethemundercoldwaterandremovetheirlsquobeardsrsquobypullingthemawayInevitablyafewmusselswillbeslightlyopenTapthemquitehardseveraltimesontheworksurfaceIfafteraminuteorsothemusselclosesthenyouknowitisaliveAnymusselsthatdonotcloseshouldbediscarded

HeatasplashofrapeseedoilinalargepanaddtheshallotsandgarlicandfryoveramediumheatuntilsoftenedbutnotbrownedAddtheciderchicken

overamediumheatuntilsoftenedbutnotbrownedAddtheciderchickenstockandcreamandturntheheatuphighwiththelidonOncetheliquidhascometoarapidboilandthereisplentyofsteamaddthemusselstothepanStironcecoverthepanagainandcookfor2ndash3minutesuntilthemusselsopenAddthetarragonsprigsandstirthemusselstocheckthatthemajorityhaveopenedAnythatdonrsquotopenshouldbediscardedItisfareasiertoovercookmusselsthanitistoundercookthemsoresisttheurgetocontinueanylonger

Withaslottedspoondividethemusselsbetween2servingbowlsthentastethecookingliquidandaddsaltifneededitwillprobablyalreadybesaltyfromthemusselsLadletheliquoroverthemusselsandgetamongstthemprontoAnemptymusselshellmakesaperfectsetoftweezersforremovingtheremainingmusselsfromtheirshellsanddecentsourdoughbreadwillthirstilymopupthelastdropsoftheliquor

SteamedMegrimSolewithRockSamphireandSumac-braisedFennel

RocksamphirehascomplexcitrusnoteshintsofeucalyptusandadelicatelingeringbitternessthatpairswellwithfishWeforagerocksamphirefromthelocalcoastline

SERVES260gbutteratroomtemperatureplusanextraknob1tbspchoppedmixedflat-leafparsleythymeandmint2tbspsumac4tbspcidervinegar2fennelbulbsrapeseedoil2carrots1megrimsoleweighing750gndash1kg(or1witchor2dabs)200grocksamphireormarshsamphireaglassofwhitewineseasaltandblackpeppercrustybreadtoserve

Beatthe60gbutterwiththeparsleythymeandmintthenchillBringthesumacandcidervinegartoasimmerinasmallsaucepanthenstrainandreservetheliquid

LightlytrimthetopandbottomofthefennelbulbsCuteachoneverticallyintoquartersthecorewillholdeachpiecetogetherinsegmentsHeattheknobofbutterinapanwithasplashofrapeseedoilAddthefennelandcookoveramedium-highheatfor5ndash6minutesoneachsideuntilbrownedandlightlycaramelisedAddsomesaltandthesumacvinegarwhichshouldroughlycoverthebaseofthepanCoverandcookgentlyfor20ndash25minutesthefennelshouldstillofferalittleresistancetothetipofasharpknifeWhenitiscookedwiththefishlateritwillbecomeverytender

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6Slicethecarrotsasfinelyasyoucan

downtheirlengthIfyoudonrsquothaveamandolineay-shapedvegetablepeelerwillmakeperfectstripstoo

Placealengthofthickfoil2frac12timesthelengthofthefishonaworksurfacePutthecookedfenneltowardsoneendofthefoilandrestthefishonitScatterthesamphireandcarrotsontopofthefishandseasonwithsaltandpepperPulltheedgesofthefoiluparoundthefishandthenpourinthewineCoverthefishwiththeotherendofthefoilandfoldtheedgesintosealittightPlaceonabakingsheetintheovenandbakefor12ndash16minutesuntilthefleshcomesawayfromthespineeasilywhenaknifeisinsertedneartheboneItcouldalsobecookedonabarbecuewithalidastheglassofwinesteamsthefishprettyquicklyThetimingwillbesimilarbutwilldependontheheatofthebarbecue

DropthechilledherbedbutterontothefishpriortoservingThisdishrarelymakesitoutofthefoilatourplacesojustneedsawarmplatetocarryittothetableEatwithcrustybreadtomopupthelastofthejuiceswhichareimpossibletoresist

SALTANDVINEGARPICKLING

SaltandvinegarpreservationisagreatwayofstoringforagedorgardensummerfoodsWhenusedasgarnishesandingredientsinthewintertheywilladdmuchtotheplateduringaseasonwherelessgrows1CalculatingyieldandnumberofjarsWashalltheforagedorgardenvegetablesthoroughlyinacoupleofchangesofcoldwaterWeighthevegetablesandmakeanoteofthequantityPlaceanemptysterilisedjaronthescalesandsetthemtozero(orlsquotarersquo)PackthevegetablesintothejarpressingdownwellandnotedowntheweightDividethetotalweightofthevegetablesbytheweightofthevegetablesinthejar(Soifyouhave130ginthejarand1300gtotalvegetablesyouwillget1300130=10jars)2CalculatingquantitiesofvinegarandsaltPlaceapanonthescalesandsetthemtozero(orlsquotarersquo)Addenoughpicklingorcidervinegartothejartocoverthevegetablesby1cmdepthPouroffthevinegarintothesaucepananddecantthevegetablesintoaseparatebowlMultiplytheweightofvinegarbythenumberofjarsyouhavelinedupandfillthepanwiththisamountofvinegarYouthenneedtoaddtenpercentsalt(Sofor1100gvinegaryouneed110gsalt)3SterilisingUsejarsthathavelidsthatwillsealwelljarsthathaverubberseals(egKilnerjars)arebest(removethesealsbeforeplacingintheOven)Preheattheovento140degCGasMark1WashthejarsinhotsoapywateranddrainwellPlaceonabakingtrayintheovenTheyneedatleast20minutesbutcanstayintheovenuntilneededastheyshouldbehotwhenthecontentsareaddedtopreventtheglasscracking4CookingtheingredientsThismethodisidealforfineorfinelyslicedingredientssuchascourgettessamphireandelderberries

courgettessamphireandelderberriesBringthevinegartotheboilandaddyourchosenspicemix

LowerthevegetablesintothebubblingliquidTheboilingwilllikelystopMaintainthehighheatandwatchfortheliquidtoreturntoarapidboilScoopoutthevegetablesandaddthemtothehotsterilisedjarsContinueuntilallthejarsarefilledthenpourthehotvinegarandspicesintoeachjarcoveringby1cmdepthWithteatowelinhandclosethejarsfirmly(havingreplacedtherubbersealsifusing)andturnthejarsupsidedown

Pickledrocksamphire

PERLITREOFCIDERORPICKLINGVINEGAR

100gseasalt1tablespooncorianderseed1tbspblackpeppercorns8staranise16allspiceberries8freshbayleavesfreshrocksamphire(seehere)

Frythespices(exceptthebayleaves)inalargefryingpanoveramediumheatuntiltheystarttoreleasetheiraromasAddtotheboilingvinegarmixfollowedbythesamphireandfollowtheinstructionsinstep4above

WaterBuffaloFilletwithClearChickenStockTarragonandSalt-bakedBabyBeets

ThechickenstockforthisdishneedsfreezingandthendefrostingthroughalayerofmuslintoclarifyitItwillhavegoldenhuesandbeasbrilliantandclearasbrandywiththismethodItisasomewhatlavishtechniquegiventhereductioninvolumethatoccursbutforaspecialoccasionsuchasasteakwethinkitisworthitThechickenandtarragonpairingistrulyawell-testedoneandthetarragonmakesagreatbridgeforthedelicatebeef-likefilletofbuffaloFormoreoncookingsteaksseehere

SERVES41litrebrownchickenstock(seehere)1kgbabybeetrootswiththeirleafytopsstillattached100grocksaltabunchoftarragon4waterbuffalofilletsteaks25cmthick(seehere)rapeseedoilseasalt

Freezethestockthenturnitoutofitscontainerandwrapitin2layersofmuslinPlaceinasievesetoverabowlthenputinthefridgeThegelatineimpuritiesandfatwillstaysolidinthemuslinatfridgetemperaturewhilethestockwillrunclearbelowResisttheurgetosqueezethemuslinitwilldraindryeventuallyThistechniqueyieldsabouthalftheinitialfrozenweightofstockinfinishedclarifiedstock

Heattheovento180degCGasMark4WashthebabybeetsandscrubthemwellTheywillprobablybeprettycleanatthisyoungagebutbemindfulofsoilresidueSpreadthesaltonabakingtrayandplacethebeetsontopWrapthetrayinfoilsealingitwellandbakefor1houroruntilthebeetsaretenderThesaltwilldrawoutmoistureandseasonthebeetsperfectly

About15minutesbeforethebeetsarecookedheattheclarifiedchickenstockinapanthentasteandseasonwithsaltifrequiredNowisagoodtimetogetyoursteakpansmokinghot

togetyoursteakpansmokinghot

BrushthesteaksverylightlywithrapeseedoilSeasonthemwithsaltbutnotpepperasitwillburnPutthesteaksinthepreheatedpanandleaveoverahighheatturningthemwithalongpairoftongsevery15ndash20secondsIfyouarecooking4filletsthiswillrequirestandingatthestoveturningtheminrotationduringthefewminutesneededtocookthemPeriodicallypresseachsteaktogaugehowwellcookedtheyareandwhenyoufeelyouhavethemspotonremovetoawarmplateLeavethemtorestsomewherewarmfor10minutesnolessThiswillallowthemtorelaxandreabsorbsomeofthejuicethatcomesfromthemInthistimedividethechickenstockbetween4deepplatesfinishingwithfreshtarragonsprigsFillasidebowlwiththebeetswhicharetobeeatenunceremoniouslywithyourfingersLayasteakoneachplateJobdone

WATERBUFFALO

WebuyourwaterbuffalomeatfromLowerOakleyFarmnearYeovilinSomersetTonyandJaneCoupekeepaherdof250ofthesedocilebeastsalldescendedfromAsianwaterbuffaloThecalvesstaywiththeirmothersforfivetosixmonthsthenafterweaningtheyeatnothingbutgrassandinwintersilagefromthefarmTheyareslaughteredat22ndash30monthsandthemeatishungforaminimumof21daysThereisverylittlemarblinginthemeatasmostofthefatisontheoutsideoftheanimalandaroundtheribsWaterbuffalomeathashighlevelsofomega-3fattyacidsandironandisregardedasanall-roundhealthyalternativetobeef

COOKINGSTEAK

WhencookingsteakthereareafewrulestoobserveAlwaysbringthesteaktoroomtemperatureforanhourbeforeithitsthepanasthiswillensureitcooksevenlySaltistheonlyseasoningtobeaddedbutnotfarinadvanceofcookingotherwiseitwilldrawmoisturefromthesteakTheheavierandthickerthepanthebettertheheatwillbedistributedcast-ironpansareidealThetemperatureofthepanisthenextthingtoconsiderItneedstobeveryhotsoputitontheheatandleaveuntilitissohotyoucannotholdyourhandaninchabovethenear-glowingsurfaceTocheckwhetherasteakisdonetoyourlikingpressitwith

yourthumbandgaugethepressurerequiredtodosoRaresteakwillfeelassoftasthefleshofyourcheekoveryourmolarsmediumwillbemorelikethefleshatthetopofyourcheekonyoureyesocketwhichismarginallyfirmerShouldyougetaskedtocookasteaklsquowelldonersquoandyoucanrsquotconvinceyourguestthatlsquomediumrsquowillbeperfectandtenderwithnohintsofredbloodnormallyassociatedwithafour-day-agedcutthenhereishowpressyourforeheadndashprettyfirmcomparedtoyourcheekandagoodwaytoconfirmthatasteakisovercookedthroughoutPainfultoseethatinthekitchenweknow

BarbecuedHorseMackerelwithCobnutSalbitxadaSauce

SinceweprideourselvesonhavingadirectrelationshipwiththeprocessofgrowingwemustadmitthatwearealittlejealousoftheCatalanwintercelebrationforcalcotsCalcotsaresuperbsweetonionsthatareforcedtogrowtallandpalebygraduallybuildingsoiluparoundthemWeknowouronionsandthisoneisacorkerAttentivegardeningisrewardedwiththecalcotadafestivalinJanuarywhentenderstemsarewrappedinnewspaperandthrownontohotcoalstilltheyarecharredTheblackenedskinsarepeeledawayanddippedinsalbitxadaaroastedpeppersaucethatisacachetofculinarybrillianceItisatitsbestwhenmadewithfreshalmondswhicharedelicatelycrispandeversoslightlymilkyndashqualitiesthatournativefreshcobnutsandhazelsshareGiventheabundanceofthesenutsinAugustweneededarecipeforthembeforetheyweresnaffledbythesquirrelsSalbitxadasauceprovedperfectusingupglutsofpeppersandtomatoesandanystalebreadInSpainsherryvinegarisusedbutexcellentvintagecidervinegariswhatwehavehereandithasequalvalueinoureyesWedecidedtocomeupwithourowneventforthesummermonths

whenheritagetomatoesareattheirpeakfourtypesofcobnutaredroppingfromthetreesandthebabyleeksarenighonimpossibletopriseoutofthegardenerrsquoshandsunlessthewordlsquociderrsquoismentionedThisisagreatcelebrationofallthehardworkthathasgoneintothegardenYouwillneedatleasttwogoodbagsofcharcoalplussomeonewhousedtobeascoutwhowillknowwhenthecharcoalisjustrighttocookonOhandiceinyourciderDeadposhWehaveusedhorsemackerelherebutherringsardinesorpilchardsline-

caughtseabassseabreamandblackbreamgreyorredmulletandpollackareallidealforcookingwholeovercoalsandwilllovethesalbitxadapairing

PERPERSON

1corncob4ndash5babyleeks1horsemackerelweighing400ndash500gcleanedalittlerapeseedoilabunchofsummersavory(orthymeorlemonthyme)

abunchofsummersavory(orthymeorlemonthyme)seasalt

FORTHECOBNUTSALBITXADASAUCE(ENOUGHFOR8)1moritachilli(orchipotlechilli)vintagecidervinegar5garliccloves500gheritagetomatoes150gstalesourdoughbreadcutintocubes4Romanopeppersflame-roasted(seehere)1tspsalt1tspsmokedpaprika100gshelledcobnutsfinelychoppedabout4tbsprapeseedoil

FirstmakethesauceTorehydratethechilliputitinasmallcupofboilingwaterwithatablespoonofcidervinegarmixedinandleavefor10minutes

Heattheovento180degCGasMark4WrapthegarlicclovesinfoilandplacethemonabakingsheetalongsidethetomatoesRoastintheovenfor25minutesuntilbothgarlicandtomatoesareverysoftPutthecubesofbreadonabakingsheetandtoastintheovenfor4minutesoruntilgoldenalloverSetthebreadtomatoesandgarlicasidetocoolthenpeeltheroastedtomatoesandgarlicbysqueezingthemfreeoftheirskinsReservealltheliquidandplaceitalongwiththetomatoesandgarlicpulpinablenderwiththepeppersDrainandchopthechilliandaddthatalongwiththesaltandsmokedpaprikaSplashenoughcidervinegaroverthebreadcubestosoftenthemDonrsquotbeshywiththevinegarasitisintegraltothetasteofthefinisheddishAddthebreadandcobnutstotheblenderturnitonandthenaddtherapeseedoilinaslowstreamtillthemixtureisliquidenoughtoblendTasteandchecktheseasoningAlthoughthiscanbemadeinadvanceyouwillhavetotrytoresisteatingitallbeforethebarbecue

GetyourbarbecuegoodandhotThecorncobsneeda30-minutedunkingincoldwaterstillintheirhusksbeforecookingThiswillmoistentheouterlayersenoughtoprotectthemfromthedirectheatofthecoalswhilesimultaneouslyaddingalittlemoistureinternallytohelpthesteaming

simultaneouslyaddingalittlemoistureinternallytohelpthesteamingprocessPlacethecobsdirectlyonthecoalsstillintheirhusksandcookforroughly15minutesturningevery5minutesuntiltenderWrapeachpersonrsquosportionofleeksin2or3layersofdampenednewspaperthensetthemdirectlyonthewhite-hotcoalsTheyarecookedperfectlywhenthepaperisentirelyblackenedandalmostburnedawayThecharredoutersandsteamedmiddlesareeversomoreish

BrushthefishwithalittleoilseasonwithsaltandstuffthecavitywiththeherbsCookonthebarbecuegrillturningonce(alternativelywrapinfoilandplacedirectlyonthecoalsfor5minutesperside)Thefishonthegrillcanbeconsideredcookedwhentheskiniscrispedalloverandthefleshcomesawayfromthespineeasily

HORSEMACKEREL

WediscoveredhorsemackerelwhenonedayitwasallthatwasavailablefromtheboatthatsuppliesusItturnsoutthathorse

mackerelarebright-eyedandgreatservedhotTheseshinylsquoscadrsquocanbefoundnativelyinthesummernotfarfromCornwallandareagreatalternativetocommonmackerelEversoslightlylessoilythanmackerelandgoodforroastingovercoalswestuffthebellywiththepepperymarjoram-likeherbsummersavoury

MixedwithvinegarsummersavourycanhavethesameapplicationasmintsauceSufficetosaywemakealittleofthisto

drizzleoverthefinishedcharcoaledfish

CURING

Saltingfoodorlsquocuringrsquowasamethoddevelopedtopreservefoodbringingdownawholeanimalmeantmoremeatthanthehunter-gatherercouldeatbeforeitwentbadItisbelievedthatdryingmeatwasoneofthefirstexperimentswithpreservationevenpredatingsaltingPeoplewouldleavemeatinthehotsuntodryoutorbuildasmallfireandplacethemeatoveritAlongthewaysomebodyfoundthatsaltingmeatofferedachemicalmeansofachievingthesameresultSaltingwasthencombinedwithsmokingtoachievealongerperiodwhenmeatwassafefromspoilageThesedaystheneedforpreservationhasbeensurpassedby

peoplersquostasteforcuredmeatCuredmeatspossessauniquetextureandintenseflavourbaconisprobablythemostobviousexampleofthisCuringisasimilarconcepttobriningbuthasadifferent

outcomeBrininggenerallyspeakinguseslowpercentagesofsaltinaliquidsolutiontobreakdownfilamentswithinthemuscleresultinginthemuscletakingonandholdingliquidduringthecookingprocessCuringontheotherhandcanbedoneeitherinliquidusingamuchhigherpercentageofsaltorwithadrysaltorspicerubCuringmeatdrawsmoistureoutcausingthemeattoundergo

apermanenttransformationintextureandflavourtheproductbecomesmoreconcentratedachievingamoreintenseflavourAndwhilethemoistureisbeingdrawnoutofthemeatthemeatcantakeonexternalflavoursThisopensupaworldofpossibilityforthecooktobecreativeYoucanaddspicesandherbstothesaltthenblitzitinafoodprocessorThisiswhatwedowhenwedowhenwecureourroeloin(seehere)andthegoatlointomakeourlsquogoatbaconrsquo(seehere)OurgoatbaconisoftenpilferedbythechefwhorsquoscookingonthestoveNeedlesstosaywersquove

almostalwaysgotgoatloincuringinthefridgeinafruitlessbattleagainsttheconstantsnarfingofourfreshculinarycreationTherearemanyvariableswhenitcomestocuringandyou

canbeascreativeandexperimentalasyoulikeAnyrecipesforwhichweusecuringincludethecuremixandtimeHoweverdoexperimentwiththetimethatthemeatisinthecurethetypesofspicesandherbsusedasthesewillallresultindifferentoutcomesAdoptaquestioningattitudeandseekoutanswersforyourself

FennelandSumacGravadTrout

ThisisourversionofthetraditionalScandinaviandishgravadlaxwhichtranslatesaslsquoburiedsalmonrsquondashanindicationofthewayitusedtobepreparedByburyingfishinaholeinthegroundinlayersitwaspreservedinanairtightspaceandlefttofermentTheadditionofsaltcamelateronwhenitbecamemorereadilyavailableOncethefishwasdugoutitmusthavebeenpungenttosaytheleastbutthebeautyofthismethodwasthatitallowedpeopletoeatfishevenwhenthefreshsupplieswerelonggoneHumaningenuityledtotheadditionofherbstomakeitmorepalatableandthecuringtimewasshortenedThecureinjectssomepungentflavourstobalanceoutthesubtletyinherentinfishHeretheaniseednotesinthefennelpairwellwiththecitrustonesofsumac

SERVES4ndash61ndash12kgfreshrainbowtroutfilleted

FORTHECURE

40gfineseasalt70gcastersugar2tspfennelseeds2tspsumac1tspcorianderseeds

frac12tspblackpeppercorns

PlacealltheingredientsforthecureinablenderorfoodprocessorandblitzuntilthespicesarefinelygroundSetaside

CheckthatnopinbonesremaininthetroutfilletsCutsomealuminiumfoilroughly4timesthewidthofatroutfilletand1frac12timesthelengthUseroughlyaquarterofthecuremixtomakeabedinthecentreofthefoilthesamelengthandheightasatroutfilletPlaceonefilletskin-sidedownontopSpreadtwo-thirdsoftheremainingcureoverthefishthenlaythesecondfilletontopofthefirstflesh-to-fleshSpreadtheremainingcureontop

BringthebottomhalfofthefoilupandthetophalfofthefoiloverthetroutsothattheyareedgetoedgeFoldthebottomfoiloverthetoptocreatea1cmpleatKeepfoldingthispleatoveritselfuntilthefoilisflushwiththetroutRepeatthesameprocessontheleftandrightsidesofthefoil

Placethetroutonatrayandweightitdownwithawoodenboardoracoupleofgood-sizedplatesLeaveinthefridgefor6daysLiquidwillbereleasedfromthefishbutavoidthetemptationtodrainitoffThishighlysalineliquidwillcontinuetocurethetrout

After6daysremovethefishfromthefoilparcelandrinseitunderacoldtapPatthefishdrywithkitchenpaperandleaveuncoveredinthefridgeforacoupleofhoursuntilcompletelydryPlaceonaboardandfinelyslicethefleshofftheskinatanangleusingaverysharpknife

ThetroutcanbeservedwithPickledPollack(seehere)orSpeltSodaBread(seehere)andCobnutSalbitxadaSauce(seehere)

WhiteRaspberryLoganberryandEwersquosYoghurtTerrinewithSweetCicelyConfit

Thisdessertusessomelesser-knownberrieswhichgroweasilyinBritishsoilWhiteraspberriesarenotthoughttobenativetoBritainbutthebushesattheWalledGardenseemtothriveandweobtainplentyoffruitChildren

attheWalledGardenseemtothriveandweobtainplentyoffruitChildrenseemtolikethemfindingtheircolourorlackofitratherintriguingTheyareverysweetwithlittleornoacidityandarebestusedindisheswheretheirsubtleflavourisnotoverpoweredLoganberriesaresurprisinglydifficulttofindAnineteenth-century

hybridbetweenablackberryandaraspberrytheylooklikeelongatedraspberriesacquiringadeeppurplish-redcolourwhenripeTheyareonthetangysideandbenefitfromtheadditionofsugarwhenusedincookingYoucouldalsoservethisterrinewithtwosimplecompotesofloganberries

andraspberriesasshowninthephoto

SERVES8ndash10500gwhiteraspberries(orordinaryraspberriesifunavailable)500gloganberries20ggelatineleaves240gfructose(fruitsugar)150gewersquosyoghurt100gdoublecream50gcastersugar1vanillapodmintleaves(optional)togarnish

FORTHEMACERATEDLOGANBERRIES

100gloganberries150mlcidervinegar250gcastersugar

FORTHESWEETCICELYCONFIT(OPTIONAL)

100gcastersugar100mlwhitewine20gsweetcicelystalksfinelysliced

FirstpreparethemaceratedloganberriesPuttheberriesinabowlpouroverjustenoughcidervinegartocoverthenleaveinthefridgeovernightThefollowingdaydrainreservingthevinegarAddthecastersugartothevinegarandstirtodissolvePourtheliquidbackovertheberriesandchill

vinegarandstirtodissolvePourtheliquidbackovertheberriesandchilluntilneeded

Verylightlybrusha750mlterrineorloaftinwithoilthenlineitwithclingfilmFillitwithwaterthengentlymovetheclingfilmsotherearenobubblesremainingunderneathDiscardthewaterandcarefullydrythelinedterrine

Put250gwaterinasteamerandbringtotheboilPutthewhiteraspberriesinthesteamerbasketcoverandsteamoveralowheatfor45minutesDiscardtheraspberriesndashtheywillhavelostalltheirflavourndashandreservetheraspberry-flavouredliquidthatremainsinthepanYoushouldhavemorethantheoriginal250gbecauseoftheliquidfromtheraspberriesWeighout250gyouwonrsquotneedtheremainingliquid

Steamtheloganberriesinexactlythesamewayweighingout250goftheliquidattheend

Place7gofthegelatineinabowlofice-coldwaterandleaveforabout10minutesuntilsoftMeanwhileaddhalfthefructosetothewhiteraspberryliquidandtheotherhalftotheloganberryliquidHeatboththeliquidsseparatelystirringtodissolvethefructosePourtheloganberryliquidintoacontainerleavetocoolandthenrefrigerateuntilneeded

TakethegelatinefromthewatersqueezingouttheexcessAddthegelatinetothewarmwhiteraspberryliquidandstiruntilfullydissolvedPourthisintothelinedterrinetocreateyourfirstlayerLeaveinthefridgefor2ndash4hoursuntilset

Softenanother7gofthegelatineinice-coldwaterinthesamewayTransfertheloganberryliquidtoasaucepanandwarmthroughoveramediumheatAddthesqueezed-outgelatineandstiruntilfullydissolvedLeavetocoolforafewminutesthentaketheterrineoutofthefridgeandslowlypourtheloganberrylayeroverthesetwhiteraspberrylayerReturntothefridgeandleavetosetagain

Meanwhilesoftenthefinal6ggelatineinabowlofice-coldwaterPuttheyoghurtcreamandsugarintoasaucepanSlitthevanillapodopenlengthwaysandscrapeouttheseedsPuttheseedsandpodintothesaucepanandplaceonalow-mediumheatUsingthebackofaspoonbreakupany

andplaceonalow-mediumheatUsingthebackofaspoonbreakupanyclumpsofvanillaseedssotheyareevenlydistributedStirringregularlyheatuntilthesugarhasdissolvedandthemixtureishottothetouchndashnomoreAnythingabovethisandtheyoghurtislikelytosplitresultinginagrainymouthfeelAddthesqueezed-outgelatinetothewarmcreamandyoghurtmixtureandstiruntilfullydissolvedTaketheterrinefromthefridgeandpourtheyoghurtmixtureovertheloganberryjellyReturntothefridgeuntilset

Ifpreparingthesweetcicelyconfitputthesugarandwineinanovenproofpanwith100mlwaterandbringslowlytotheboilstirringtodissolvethesugarAddtheslicedsweetcicelystalksandplaceinanovenpreheatedto80degC(orthelowestpossiblegasovensetting)Cookfor3ndash4hoursoruntilthesweetcicelyisslightlywoodyDraindiscardingthesugarsyrup

Toserveturntheterrineoutontoaboardcarefullypeelofftheclingfilmandsliceitinto8ndash10portionsLaythemonservingplatesanddotaroundthemaceratedloganberriesndashandthesweetcicelyconfitifyouhavemadeitndashinadecorativefashionMintalsoworkswellasagarnish

FRUCTOSE

FructoseisatypeofsugarthatisfoundnaturallyinbothhoneyandfruitandisdifferenttosucrosethesugarthatweconsumeinteaandcakesonadailybasisSucroseisabondbetweenthecomponentsglucoseandfructoseandisadisaccharideFructoseisamonosaccharideandoneofthesimplestformsofcarbohydratesItisworthnotingthatfructoseisoneandahalftimessweeterthansucroseandisthereforeoftenusedinsweetenersduetothefactthatlessisrequiredBearthisinmindwhenusingfructoseasyouwillneedlesstoachievethesamesweetnessassucroseWhenitcomestofruitypreparationsfructoseisourlsquogo-torsquo

ingredientMatthewandIainswearbyitespeciallyaroundthistimeofyearwhenthefruitarrivesinglutsandinterestingcreationsneedtobeconjuredupandattentivelytestedOnlythenwilltheybeaddedtotheever-changingmenuOnthebasis

thenwilltheybeaddedtotheever-changingmenuOnthebasisthatusinglikewithlikeisalwayspreferablewefindthatusingfructosewithfruitachievesamuchgreaterimpactthancanbeachievedwithsucroseItenhancesthefruitsrsquoinherentflavoursandnoticeablybooststhelsquofruitinessrsquo

GELATINE

GelatineisagreatmeansforsettingliquidsandgivesthelsquoclassicjellyrsquomouthfeelthatweareallsofamiliarwithWell-executedjelliesshouldbedelicateandsoftfarfromrubberyorchewyThelatterdefectisusuallydowntoanexcessofgelatine

HowevertheageofajellywillalsolargelyaffectitsstructureandconsistencyndashdessertslsquostiffenuprsquotheoldertheyareGelatinehasatroublesomehabitofnetworkingandjoiningupwithothernetworksofgelatineThemorethishappensovertimethemorewatertheytrapandthestifferthejellybecomesWeutilisethisphenomenontosticktheseparatelayerstogethercreatingoneuniformterrineLeftfortoolongtheterrinewilleventuallylose

itspleasantmouthfeelItisworthattemptingtodevourtheterrinewithintwodaysndashaneasyfeatonceyouhavetastedit

daggerBerriesformanintegralpartofourfoodheritageandarethequintessentialfruitsoftheBritishsummerTheywereanimportantelementintheVictorianfamilyrsquosfruitbowltheprominentcookerywriterMrsBeetonstatedadamantlyinherBookofHouseholdManagementthatthereislsquonofruitsouniversallyinfavourrsquoTheBritishpopulationenjoyedasurprisingpeakofphysicalhealthduringthemid-Victorianera(fromaround1850to1880)whentherewasatendencytoeatmorefreshfruitvegetablesfishandmeat

ElderflowerSorbetwithFennelSherbetandWildStrawberries

EldergrowsveryquicklyandwillrapidlytakeupspaceneededbyotherhedgerowplantssuchashazelchestnutandbeechLuckilyforustheneighbouringfarmerhasrefrainedfromcuttingbacktheelderandthereareseveraltreesthatgrowinthehedgesoppositeMarkrsquospolytunnelshighuponabankawayfromthefieldbelowWecollectasmanyofthesedelicateperfumedflowerheadsinearlysummeraspossibleWemakeourownsherbetforthissorbetVirtuallyanyspicewithin

reasoncanbeaddedtoicingsugarcitricacidandbicarbonateofsodatocreatethischildhoodconfectioneryWeusefennelwithitsaniseflavoursweetsourandaromaticWildstrawberriesaddthefinishingtouchThesetinymorselsofsweet

muskyaciditypushtheirwayupthroughthegapsintheredbrickpathsinthegardenTheychoosetheshadeofthelowboxhedgesandshadowsoftheherbpatchTheycanbefoundgrowingonheathlandandgrassyvergesandinmanygardensItrsquoswellworthtryingtogetholdofsomeastheytasteinfinitelysuperiortothelargercultivatedvarieties

SERVES4ndash610largeelderflowerheads65mlelderflowercordial50gglucosepowder195gcastersugar

TOSERVE

4ndash6ice-creamcones20ndash30wildstrawberries(ifunavailableusesmallcultivatedstrawberriescutintocubes)

WildFennelSherbet(seehere)

RemoveallbutthesmalleststalksfromtheelderflowerheadsandputtheflowersinabowlPutalltheingredientsexcepttheelderflowersinasaucepanadd690mlwaterandbringtotheboilstirringtodissolvethesugarImmediatelyremovefromtheheatandaddtheelderflowersLeaveto

sugarImmediatelyremovefromtheheatandaddtheelderflowersLeavetoinfusefor15minutesthenstrainthroughafinesieveDiscardtheelderflowersandleavethesyruptocoolTransfertothefridgeandleaveforatleast2hoursbeforechurningThisallowstheproteinspresentinthemixturetohydratefullywhichimprovesthewhippingqualitiesgivingasmoothersorbet

Freezeinanice-creammachineaccordingtothemanufacturerrsquosinstructionsWhenthemixtureisalmostfrozenblitzwithastickblenderfor15ndash30secondsthenreturntothemachineandcontinuetochurnDecantintoanairtightcontainerandfreezeforatleast2hoursbeforeserving

Toservetransferthesorbettothefridgeforabout10minutestosoftenslightlythenscooponeortwoballsofsorbet(orasmanyasyoucanfit)intoeachice-creamconePressthestrawberriesintothesorbetandthendustlavishlywiththesherbet

PineappleWeedJelly

Pineappleweed(Matricariadiscoidea)canbefoundfromMaytoSeptemberandlooksjustlikechamomilebutwithoutthepetalsWhetherornotithasthesamecalmingeffectaschamomileissomethingtobeexploredndashperhapsthisisacalmingandrestorativejellyrecipeItgrowsonwastelandandinplentyofotherplacestooItisoftenresentedbygardenersasitwillcompetewithotherplantsforvaluablespaceandnutrientsandthetaprootswillgripintoanysurfacehowevertoughThisisallthemorereasontofindoutwhosegardenyoumaybeabletopicksomefromwearesuretheywillthankyouforitTheflavourisextraordinaryasitresemblespineapplealmostperfectlyBoththeflowersandleavesareedibleWehavegiventhemeasurementsforthewaterforthejellyingrams

ratherthanmillilitresThisisbecausealthoughmillilitresandgramsareequal(ie100mlweighs100g)inrecipeswhereprecisionisimportantyougetamoreaccurateresultifyouweightheliquidThisiseasytodowithelectronicscalesandinfactwenowweighliquidsasamatterofcourseandrarelyuseameasuringjug

SERVES4220gcastersugar40gpineappleweed13ggelatineleavesCherrySpoom(seehere)orRoastedWhiteChocolateSpoom(seehere)toservePutthesugarinapanwith450gwaterandbringtotheboilstirringtodissolvethesugarRemovefromtheheatandaddthepineappleweedCoverthepanandleavetoinfusefor20minutesStrainthroughmuslinorafinesieve

Soakthegelatineinice-coldwaterforabout10minutesuntilsoftenedRemovefromthewatersqueezingouttheexcessAddthegelatinetothepineappleweedwaterandstiruntilcompletelydissolvedIfthegelatinedoesnotdissolvepourthemixturebackinthepanandplaceoveralowheat

Pourtheliquidintoajellymould(apineapplemouldlooksgoodifyouhaveone)andrefrigerateovernightoruntilset

Servewiththecherryspoomorroastedwhitechocolatespoom

ElderflowerandLavenderMarshmallows

ThelongcountrylaneleadingtoBarleyWoodisgreenandwindingBymid-summerthetreesandhedgesarounditformadenseherbaceoustunnelinpartsAtvariousspotsalongthelanearesoftalmostfurry-lookingelderflowerbusheswaitingtobepickedItrsquosthesamewhenyoustandatthetopgatesoftheWalledGardenand

lookdownthelanethatrunsalongsidethemainorchardHereitisimpossiblenottofeelasenseofcalmandserenityinducedbythedelicatelypungentsmelloflavendergrowingalongtheleft-handwallLikeagroupofplayfulchildrenheadsbobbinginthesunshinethesoftpurpleflowersgreetyoueverymorningwiththeirtranquilscentThesetwoingredientsepitomisesummerattheWalledGardenTheyare

traditionallycelebratedatthesummersolsticeanancientPaganfestivalthatisintendedtomarkthestartofmoreplentifulsuppliesinthegardenItisafestivalofgrowthandlifewhereherbsgatheredthenightbeforethepointatwhichtheywerebelievedtobeattheirmostpowerfularethrownintoabigbonfiretowardoffevilspiritsensuringanotheryearoffertilityinthesurroundinglandSummersolsticeisthereforeanopportunityforustocelebratethegardenatitsmostprosperousandwhatbetterwaytoenjoyitthanbygatheringaroundabonfireandroastingsomemarshmallowsWesometimestoasttheseandsitthemalongsideourchocolatebrownies

(seehere)insteadofthecherryandelderflowersauceToastingmarshmallowsusuallyevokesnostalgicsmilesfromourcustomersTheyarefairlystraightforwardtomakeYouwillneedanelectricwhisk

preferablyafreestandingonefortheamountofwhiskingneededtoachievetherightconsistencybutotherthanthatjustsomepatienceandtheyrsquollbereadybeforeyouknowit

3tbspicingsugar3tbspcornflourrapeseedoilforbrushing40ggelatineleaves750ggranulatedorcastersugar3largeeggwhites

FORELDERFLOWERMARSHMALLOWS

5ndash8largeheadsofelderflowerstalksremoved

FORLAVENDERMARSHMALLOWS

10lavenderspearsinflower1smallredbeetrootfinelygrated(optionalbutrecommendedtomakethemarshmallowspink)

SifttheicingsugarandcornflourintoabowlVerylightlybrusha35cmtimes25cmbakingtraywithrapeseedoilthendustwiththeicingsugarandcornflourShakeanyexcessbackintothebowlandsetaside

Putthegelatineleavesinalargebowlofverycoldwaterandleaveforabout10minutesuntilsoftenedRemovethegelatinefromthewateracoupleofsheetsatatimeandsqueezeoutasmuchexcesswateraspossiblePutallthedrainedsheetsinabowlandpourover185mlhotbutnotboilingwaterStiruntilthegelatinehasfullydissolved

Ifyouaremakingelderflowermarshmallowsaddtheheadsofelderflowertotheliquidthatthegelatinehasbeendissolvedinandleavetoinfusefor10ndash15minutesStraintheliquidthroughafinesieveandcontinuewiththenextstageIfmakinglavendermarshmallowsaddthelavenderandbeetroottothedissolvedliquidandinfusefor10ndash15minutesthenstrain

Putthesugarinalargeheavy-basedpanadd375mlcoldwaterandplaceoveramedium-highheatStiruntilthesugarhasdissolvedPutasugarthermometerinthesyrupandcookthemixturewithoutstirringuntilitregisters122degCRemovefromtheheatandstirinthelavenderorelderflowermixture

PuttheeggwhitesinthebowlofafreestandingelectricmixerandwhiskuntiltheyformstiffpeaksTurnthemixerdowntoalowerspeedandpourinthesugarsyrupinaslowsteadytricklebeatingconstantlyLeavethemixertobeatatamedium-highspeeduntilthemallowmixcoolsandthickensThisusuallytakesabout30minutesitisreadywhenathickribbonisleftonthesurfacewhenthewhiskingattachmentisliftedout

UsingaspatulascoopallthemixintothedustedtrayBesuretoscrapethesidesofthebowlthoroughlysoasnottowasteanyofthisfluffydecadence

sidesofthebowlthoroughlysoasnottowasteanyofthisfluffydecadenceLevelthemixtureandallowtocooltoroomtemperatureCoverwithbakingparchmentandleaveovernighttosetDonotrefrigerate

RemovingthemarshmallowfromthetrayisarguablythehardestpartStartbypeelingthemallowawayfromoneofthenarrowendsofthetrayWhenyougetenoughoffthesidedustinsomeofthereservedcornflourandicingsugarmixthenkeepgentlypeelinganddustinguntilyouhaveagoodcoupleofinchesclearofthetrayAtthispointflipthetrayoverontoaboardandgentlyliftitoffGravityshouldintheorydotherestofthejobIfnotthencontinuepeelinganddustingandturningitontotheboarduntilitcomesloose

Havemorecornflouricingsugarmixreadyandcutthemarshmallowsinto25ndash5cmcubesRolleachmarshmallowinthedustingmixturethoroughlytopreventstickingTheywillkeepstoredinanairtightcontainerforuptoaweek

SpicedGingerBeer

GingerbeerhasbeenbrewedinBritainsincethe1700sThetasteforitspreadacrosstheworldwiththeBritishEmpirebecomingparticularlypopularinAfricaandtheCaribbeanMeanwhilethelsquoBristolglazersquowhichincreasedthestrengthofpotterywasdevelopedlocallyinthe1830sandappliedtoearthenwarecontainersItallowedthisveryBritishtippletobesentfurtherandfurtherafieldThemesmerisingcollectionofphotographsobservationsandfactscontainedinJohnThomsonrsquosVictorianLondonStreetLife(DoverPublicationsInc1994)estimatesthatin1877300000gallonsofgingerbeerweresoldinLondonQuiteoftenitwaspulledthroughthestreetsbyhorsesinacontraptionresemblinganoldpianoanddispensedwithbeerpumphandlesBy1935thereweremorethan3000producersintheUKbutonlyafewremainItreallyisthetasteofBritishsummerPleaseserveinajuginthegardenonatablecoveredwithalinentableclothWehavealsotriedthisrecipewithraspberriesanditwassuperbWeaddedahandfulofraspberrieswiththespicesattheheatingstageandstillputthegingerinmuslinforthefermentationpartItwasaluminousred

MAKESABOUT2LITRES250gcastersugar5ndash8cmpieceoffreshgingerdicedzestandjuiceof1lemon2cloves3juniperberriesfrac12cinnamonstick3blackpeppercorns1tbspGBP(seehere)

Youwillneeda225litrecontainerwithalidplusa25cmsquareofmuslinandapieceofstringfortyingitintoaDickWhittingtonesqueparcelItisimportanttosterilisealltheequipmentincludingthemuslinandstringYoucandothisbypouringboilingwaterovereverything

Putthesugarinapanwithathirdofthegingerplusthelemonzestspicesand250mlwaterBringthismixturetoalightsimmerstirringtodissolve

and250mlwaterBringthismixturetoalightsimmerstirringtodissolvethesugarthenleavetocool

Pour175litresofwaterandthejuiceofthelemonintoyoursterilised2litrecontainer(alargeliddedplasticboxisfine)thelemonwillneutralisethechlorineinthewaterwhichwouldotherwiseaffecttheyeastrsquosproductivityStraininthesugarandwatermixturetietherestofthegingerupinthemuslinwithapieceofstringanddropitinAddtheGBPthencoverandleaveatroomtemperaturefor5daysBesuretoopenthelidbrieflyeverydayinordertoletoutanycarbondioxidethathasbuiltupotherwiseitwillopenofitsownaccord

Strainthemixturethroughafinesieveintoasterilised2litreplasticbottleandputonthetopSavetheGBPandgiveitarinseitwillhavegrown(Ifyoustoreitinthefridgeinasmallsterilecontaineritwillkeepforupto2weeks)After2daysthegingerbeerwillbereadytodrinkalthoughifyoudesireafizzierbrewleaveitforlongerRefrigerationwillhaltanyfurtherfermentation

SummerElder

ThisinitiallysoundsasthoughitmightbeathoroughlysweetaffairbutfearnotThebotanicalsintheginrevelintheirmeetingwiththeblackpepperandraspberrytincturecreatinganalmostsavouryflavourThesorbetweuseisfromMendipMomentswhosepedigreeherdofHolsteincowsgrazesjustoverthehorizonontheSomersetlevelsButthisdrinkwouldworkverywellwithanypre-maderaspberrysorbet

1scoopofMendipMomentsraspberryandelderflowersorbetatroomtemperature

50mlgin(welikeChasegin)25mlelderflowercordialdashofAngosturabittersdashofblackpeppertincture(seeboxbelow)

dashofraspberrytincture(seeboxbelow)3blackpeppercornsfreshlygroundblackpepper

FirstfillatumblerwithicetochillitInamixingglasscombinethesorbetginelderflowercordialbittersandtincturesGiveitastirwithabarspoontobreakupthesorbetbeforeaddingahandfuloficeandplacethetinpartoftheshakerovertheglasstappingwiththepalmofyourhandtosecureAgoodhardshakewillallowtheicetobreakupthesorbetandmakeasmoothtextureddrinkDiscardtheicefromthetumblerandstraintheliquidthroughastrainerandsieveintotheglassFinishwithagenerousgrindofblackpepperandthethreepeppercornsontop

MAKINGTINCTURES

FillajamjaronethirdfullwithyourchoseningredientandcoverwithahighpercentageproofvodkatotwicethedepthoftheingredientsLeavetoinfusefor2weeksandthenstrainintoanothercleanjamjarYouwillbeleftwithanintenseessenceof

yourchoseningredient

RawRhubarbSmash

AsmashissonamedbecausethemintissmashedupduringshakingDuringthemid-nineteenthcenturythesmashbecameasymbolofintemperanceinAmericaandwasafavouritesummerdrinkComparedtoitsolderbrotherthejulepthisdrinkisinthewordsofthecocktailhistorianDavidWondrichlsquoaquickbracerratherthanaslowsipperrsquoBeforethedrinkisshakenwealsomuddletherhubarbWebuildthis

cocktailinajamjarandthenaddcrushediceRawrhubarbhasgoodacidityandweuseitinsteadofthecitrusfruitoftheoriginal

SERVES125mlrhubarbsyrup(seehere)7ndash8cmpieceofrhubarbfinelyslicedapinchofsugar6sprigsofmint50mlbourbonwhiskey

50mlbourbonwhiskeyfinelyslicedrhubarbdustedwithsugartogarnish

PlacethesyruprhubarbandsugarinajamjarandlsquomuddlersquoitbypressingwithapestletoreleasethejuicefromtherhubarbandmixitwiththesugarAddasprigofmintandmuddleagainmoregentlythistimeAddthebourbon2moresprigsofmintandafewicecubesScrewthelidonandshakefor10secondsPackincrushediceand2moremintsprigsuntiltheiceispiledjustabovetherimServeinthejamjargarnishedwithathinsliceofrawrhubarbdustedwithsugarplusagoodsprigofmint

DoubleSloeGinandTonic

WeuseametalVictoriancoffeepottostirchillandservethistippleAfter10goodswirlsclockwisetheoutsidegathersadivinefrostWepourthe

10goodswirlsclockwisetheoutsidegathersadivinefrostWepourthedrinkintoateacupanddeliveritwithapotoficecubesInVictoriantimesservingdrinksinthismannerwasawayofconsumingalcoholintheguiseofafternoonteaThiswasinordernottooffendthebeliefsofthelocalsinfar-flungregionsoftheoldBritishEmpireItisstillageniuswayofdisguisingthoseearly-afternoondrinks

SERVES16raspberries200mltonicwater(weliketheFeverTreebrand)25mlgin(Chaseginisourchoice)25mlsloegin

PuttheraspberriesinaglassreservingonetodropintheteacupAddadropoftonicwaterandlsquomuddlersquountilasmuchjuicehasbeenextractedfromtheraspberriesaspossibleStrainintoasmallteapotandaddtheginsloeginandtherestofthetonicwaterDropin3icecubesandstirwellPourintoacuptoserveanddropintheremainingraspberrytheicecanbeaddedwithtongslikesugarcubes

RecipeList

GoatBaconwithOxTongueNasturtiumsandClarifiedHamBroth

WildMushroomswithSourdoughToastandThymeSticheltonCregravemeFraicircche

WildMushroomandSpeltPressedTerrinewithSpinachandRainbowChard

SwedishKnaumlckebroumldwithCottageCheesePickledBeetrootCarawayBeetrootCrispsandTomThumbLettuce

RoastCrownPrinceSoupwithTandooriSpiceWalnutOilandCrispSageLeaves

Salt-bakedCeleriacPortobelloMushroomandAppleSoupDeep-friedAuberginewithRoseHipSyrup

PearNativeNapeHazelnutCardamomandEwersquosCheeseSaladPreservedDuckLegChorizoButterBeanandConfitTomato

PotStewwithYinYangBeansWoodPigeonBreastswithPersianSpicedBulgarWheat

CucumberAniseedandBlackCabbageChickenMole

VenisonCiderandQuinceStewwithHerbedButterDumplingsFishSoupwithSpicedHeritageTomatoesFennelSeedand

EnglishTruffleOilToastSlow-braisedGoatrsquosLegwithCiderShallotsLentilsandGlazed

CarrotsPheasantKievwithWinterTarragonandStrawberryMyrtle

RareRoastSirloinofBeefwithBordelaiseSauceBlackCabbageandTruffleCauliflower

AlmondPearCardamomandChocolateCakeSeaBuckthornSorbetwithAppleandVanillaPureacuteeToffeeApple

andCaramelLemonBalmBeetrootAppleandCobnutCrumblewithRoastedWhite

ChocolateSpoomSimplesyrupsforsorbetsandspooms

SpoomRoastedWhiteChocolateSpoom

CherrySpoomItalianMeringueLordrsquosLovageAppleFlip

TheOrchardatBarleyWoodSalsifyandOgleShieldGratin

VincentCastellanorsquosVenisonChorizo

THEVALEBELOWTHEgardengraduallyaltersatfirstarippleofmutedcolourthattransformsintoaleafseaofredsandbrownsflecksofcopperandorangeandafaintshimmerofsilverbirchThelarchesstandtallandgreenagainstthisbackdropofcolour

WewatchtheorchardscarefullyastheirfruitcropsintandemCheddarCrossandRibstonPippinleadthewaywhilejack-of-all-tradesMorganSweetfollowsTheciderbarnsmellsjustasitshouldwiththecurativearomasofthesweetspicedapplesTrugsbucketsandanycontainersavailablelinethetimberwallswindfallssetasideTheoakpressperfumedfromseasonsofworkiswoundupasframesandcheeseclothsarefilledwithscrattedapplesThereisarhythmasframeafterframeisstackedlevelledandsecuredbeforethecogsareheavedandtheappletoweriscompressedAtfirstthereisjustatricklethenthejuiceturnstoaflowthatquicklyfillsourcontainersThecolourisgoldenandtheflavoursweetacidiccaramelGlassesarefilledandclinkedsmilesexchangedvarietiesnotedElenaandPhilwilldebateanddiscussthenextblend

Earlyautumnrsquosblood-coloureddamsonsseeoffthelastoftheraspberriesMarkrsquostomatoesbecomeaspicedsoupalongwithfennelandaremetinthebowlbyturmeric-friedlinghorsemackerelandsquidSourdoughbreadistoastedanddrizzledwithEnglishtruffleoilwithflavoursofboskywoodlandandfour-starpetrolFoundbyacaninetrufflehunterinSomersettheseirregularblackobjectstransformasupperForagersdeliverboxesandbasketsoffungiwithtexturesrangingfrompowdertothosethatslipfromyourfingersSomedeliquescebytheeveningRoedeerfindtheirthickwintercoatmutedtoadarkershadeWeclaimabuckortwoandstewsomecutswithciderandquincetobeservedwithplumpbutterdumplingsVinceCastellanocollectstheshouldersandsoontheyhangasbundlesofredchorizoBracesofpheasantsarehungandacoupleofthesered-eyedfirebirdsescapeesfromanearbyshootpeckaroundthegardenThecockisaflashofcolourwhilehispartnerthehenismuch

thegardenThecockisaflashofcolourwhilehispartnerthehenismuchmoresubduedinhersombrebrownfeathers

WoodpigeonsareperchedonthepostssecuringtheraspberriesunwittinglyawaitingameetingwithPersianspicedbulgarwheatThevinehouseisfullofearly-seasonMuscatgrapesThe100-year-oldvinersquoscroponcefilledsilverbowlsinthediningroomofBarleyWoodhouseSimonWillswhogrewupatBarleyWoodtellsusofthepleasureofeatingthissweetfruitduringwartimerationingandofmorningsshootingrabbitswithhismotherrsquosgundogBoyandSpanielwereateamwhenhecrawledsowouldsheAsthehedgesbegintocrophipsandhawssloeginisdebatedintherestaurantandeachcustomerpromisesafinerrecipethanthelast

GoatBaconwithOxTongueNasturtiumsandClarifiedHamBroth

lsquoGoatbaconhellipwhatrsquosthatrsquowehearyouaskMatthewandIaintakethegoatloins(twomusclesthatrunparalleltothespine)anddrycurethemmuchinthesamewaythatordinarybaconismadeTheymixthesaltwithspicessotheresultingbaconisfragrantwithnotesofcuminandfennelthatsitperfectlywiththeflavourofthegoat(seetherecipeonhere)ThetextureisidenticaltotraditionalbaconyettheflavourispleasinglydifferentThisbaconworkswellalongsideoneofourfavouritepiecesofoffaltongueTongueusedtobeverypopularbuthassincefallenoutoffashionandisrarelyseenonrestaurantmenusWethinkthisisashameItischeapeasytocookveryversatileandoneofthemostoverlookedmusclesSeehereforOx

TonguewithCauliflowerGilliflowerandHazelnutsandseehereforcookingtongue

SERVES4

800mlhamhockbroth(seehere)alittlevintagecidervinegarsuchasOstlerrsquosrapeseedoil12slicesofGoatBacon(seehere)cut3ndash5mmthick4eggspoached(seehere)12ndash16small-mediumnasturtiumleaveswashedanddried(ifunavailableusebabyrainbowchardleaves)

4nasturtiumflowersgentlywashedfineseasaltflakyseasaltblackpepper

FORTHETONGUE

1oxtonguebrinedandcooked(seehere)1egglightlybeaten50gdriedbreadcrumbs(seeheretoachievethebestbreadcrumbs)

Freezethebrothin1ndash2tubsovernightthenadayorsobeforeyouplantomakethisdishturnoutthefrozenblocksandwrapthemin2layersofmuslinPlacetheminasievesetoverabowllargeenoughtoholdthethawedbroththenputtheminthefridgeThegelatineimpuritiesandfatwillstaysolidinthemuslinatfridgetemperaturewhilethebrothwillrunclearbelowResisttheurgetosqueezethemuslinitwilldraindryeventuallyThistechniqueyieldsabouthalftheinitialfrozenweightofbrothinfinishedclarifiedbroth

Slicethecookedtongueinto4portionsabout5mmndash1cmthickLightlybrushtheslicesonbothsideswithbeateneggthendiptheminthedriedbreadcrumbstogiveanevencoveringSetaside

PuttheclarifiedhambrothinasaucepanandplaceoveralowheatBringtoasimmerthentasteIfitistooconcentratedaddcoldwateratablespoonatatimeuntilyougetthedesireddilutionSeasonwithapinchoffinesaltand

atimeuntilyougetthedesireddilutionSeasonwithapinchoffinesaltandasmallsplashofcidervinegarWhenyouarehappywiththeseasoningsetthebrothasideinawarmplace

PlaceafryingpanoveramediumheatandwhenitishotaddasplashofrapeseedoilTheoilshouldbegintosmokelightlyifthepanishotenoughAddthetonguefollowedbythebaconandfryfor1ndash2minutespersideuntillightlygoldenRemovefromthepanandplaceonalayerofkitchenpaper

ToserveplaceapoachedeggineachbowlandthenaddthetongueandthebaconSlowlypourinthebrothGarnishwiththenasturtiumleavesandflowersthenaddflakysaltandcrackedpeppertotheeggs

WildMushroomswithSourdoughToastandThymeSticheltonCregravemeFraicircche

ThisissupperforanautumnaldayThesumofallofitspartsandacollectionofflavoursthathavebeenenjoyedtogetherforcenturiesAutumnmeansthatitistimeformushroomsAnumberofforagersdropinwithboxesofthemthroughouttheseasonandwealsotrytogetoutasmuchaswecanndashespeciallyintothewoodsandhillsframedinthewindowsofourglasshousePleasetrytogetholdofasourdoughloafforthetoastWepickoursup

fromMarkrsquosBreadinBedminsterTheyhavetheirownlevainorstarterthattheyusetomaketheirBristolsourdoughThelacticacidinsourdoughproducedbythelactobacillibacteriagivesthisbreaditsuniquetastewhichworkssowellinthissimplemealOurbusinesseshavegrownintandemandMarkNewmanandhisfellowbakershavesimilarvaluestooursForonetheymakealltheirdeliveriesontheirlsquoBreadmobilersquoaheavyironbicyclewithabigboxonthebackThewarmwoodyaromaofthymeisbothbitterandsweetItwasalways

destinedtobepairedwithanassortmentofwildmushroomsJekkaMcVicarourqueenofherbspointsoutthatthymeaidsdigestionandwillhelptobreakdownfatinfoodsndashanothergoodreasontobeliberalwhenpairingitwithcheeseWechoseSticheltonforthisrecipeIthastoastandcaramelflavourswithanunderlyingbutterinesswhileitsblueveinsprovidepiquancyThebluesoftensthecheesealteringitstextureandflavourchangingthecolourfromwhitetosoftcreamThewholetrucklesareathingofbeautyacombinationofwhitecrustthroughtoabrightrustthatisalmostpink

SERVES4

2tbsprapeseedoil300gmixedwildmushroomssuchasslipperyjackpennybunrussulahorsemushroomsheeprsquosfootandpuffballscleanedandslicedinto1cmstrips

leavesfrom4sprigsofthyme25gunsaltedbutter8verythinslicesofsourdoughbreadfineseasalt

fineseasaltflakyseasalt

FORTHETHYMESTICHELTONCREgraveMEFRAIcircCHE

25gSticheltoncheeseroughlychopped75mlcregravemefraicirccheleavesfrom5sprigsofthyme

ForthethymeSticheltoncregravemefraicirccheputalltheingredientsinablenderorfoodprocessorandpulsetoasemi-coarseconsistencySeasonwithflakysalttotasteandsetaside

PlacealargefryingpanoverahighheatandleaveuntilitisveryhotAddtherapeseedoilitshouldbegintosmokeImmediatelyaddthemushroomsandthymeleavesplusadustingoffinesaltandtosstocoatthemevenlywiththeoilLeaveundisturbedforaminuteorsountilthemushroomscoloureversoslightlythentossandcolourontheothersideRemovefromtheheatandaddthebuttertothepanTossuntilithasmeltedandthemushroomsareevenlycoatedthenchecktheseasoning

WhilethemushroomsarecookingputthesourdoughbreadunderahotgrillandtoastturningeveryminuteuntilbothsidesaregoldenbrownThinslicesofbreadwillcurlunderthegrillandtheregularturningpreventsthishappening

RemovethesourdoughfromthegrillandaddacoupleofslicestoeachplateCoverwiththemushroomsseasonwithflakyseasaltandaddaheapedtablespoonoftheSticheltoncregravemefraicircche

daggerFromtheoldEnglishlsquoStichlrsquo(meaninglsquostylersquo)andTun(lsquovillagersquoorlsquohamletrsquo)SticheltonistheresultofacollaborationbetweencheesemakerJoeScheiderandcheesemongerRandolphHodgsonofNealrsquosYardDairyontheWelbeckEstateinNottinghamshireThisbluecheeseismadeusingunpasteurisedorganiccowrsquosmilkandtraditionalanimalrennetThedairyislocatedonthefarmandthecowsgrazejustyardsawayJoeandRandopharefocusedonpromotingarediscoveryinBritainoftherawmilktraditionTheywantedtonametheircheeseStiltonbutwerenotallowedtoundertheProtectedDesignatedOrigin(PDO)schemewhich

doesnotallowanunpasteurisedcheesetobeaddedtoitsranksWethinkSticheltonisanevenbetternameitwasanearlyformofthewordlsquoStiltonrsquorecordedinthetwelfthcenturyWereallyappreciatetheirdesiretomakethebestpossibleproductusingthefinestingredientswithintegrityandtraditionBravo

WILDMUSHROOMS

WearefascinatedbythesefruitingbodiesthatappearinamatterofhoursndashmyceliumnetworksPleaseuseamushroomguidethatisfullyillustratedandofferscomprehensiveinstructionsonidentifyingwhetheramushroomispossiblypoisonousRogerPhillipsrsquoMushrooms(Macmillan2006)isveryuseful

AfewtimeswehavebeenluckyenoughtocookthisrecipewithPennybunrussulahorsemushroomsslipperyjackspuffballsandsheeprsquosfootmushroomsHoweversomeofthesearedifficulttofindandeasilyconfusedwithnon-ediblevarietiesAgoodplacetostartiswithsomecommonvarietiesthatarerelativelyeasytoidentifyOnceyouhavebuiltupagoodknowledgeofthesehaveatentativelookfurtherafield

MushroomslovedampweatherfollowedbysunshinesotrytopickonadrydayBrushoffanydebriswithasmallmushroombrushndashatoothbrushworksatreatbutmakesureyouuseitexclusivelyforthatactivityCheckformaggotsandparasitesbeforecookingThesearesomeofourfavouritevarieties

ChanterellendashCantharelluscibariusTheyhaveasuperbflavourTheyareassociatedwithpinebeechandbirchandsmellofapricotsTheycanbefoundonmossybanksanddampwoodsbetweensummerandlateautumn

ChickenofthewoodsndashLaetiporussulphureusAlongwiththebeefsteakmushroomthisistheonlyotherbracketfunguswortheatingItcanpotentiallyyielduptoakilooffleshandcanbefoundgrowingonoldtreessuchasoakandyewcherrysweetchestnutandwilllowbetweenAprilandautumnTheyellowerthebetter

GiantpuffballndashCalvatiagiganteaThesemustbeacleanmilkywhiteandpredominatelyunblemishedontheiroutsideandwithinTheycanbefoundingrassyfieldsgardenshedgerowsandonwoodedgesbetweenlatesummerandautumn

JewrsquosearndashAuriculariaauricula-judaeThesehaveacolourthatwillbeanywherebetweenapalereddishbrownthroughtodarkThisgelatinous-texturedmushroomcanonlybefoundondeadordyingwoodusuallyelderFinditatanytimeoftheyear

FieldmushroomndashAgaricuscampestrisThisoneresemblesthemushroomthatmostofuswillhavehadfromtheshopsItiseasytofindandgrowsonpastureandgrasslandbetweenlatesummerandautumnBewaryoftheyellowstainerwhichcanbeconfusedwiththefieldmushroomitscaphasyellowstreaksandsmellsofcarbolicacidwhencut

MorelndashMorchellaesculentaAjoytodiscoverandeatItresemblesanirregularhoneycombCanbefoundonopenscrubwoodlandchalkysoilashelmorappleduringlateSpringoftenaroundStGeorgesrsquosday

OystermushroomndashPleurotusostreatusThesearecolouredsilver-greytoafawnybeigeFindthemontrunksorbranchesofdeadordyingdeciduoustreessuchasbeechallyeararound

ParasolandshaggyparasolndashLepiotaproceraandLepiotarhacodesTheselooklikeanumbrellawithanippleonthetopThestemandcaparescalyandtherewillbearingonthestemwherethecapwasattachedFindtheminopenwoodsandpasturesbetweensummerandautumn

PennybunndashBoletusedulisItrsquosanabsolutewinifyoudiscoverthisoneThismushroomhasnogillsbuttubeslikeaspongeinsteadFinditalongedgesof

woodsandingrassyclearingsBewareofDevilrsquosBoletendashBoletussatanaswhichhasawhitegreycapwithorangesporesandaflushofredonthestemasitwillcauseanupsetstomach

StGeorgersquosmushroomndashCalocybegambosaAfavouriteeatenrawatTheEthicurean(seehere)itcanbefoundongrassyclearingsroadsidesandontheedgesofwoodsAgoodonetoidentifysinceitisspecifictoearlyMayoftenappearingaweekafterthe23rdApril

WildMushroomandSpeltPressedTerrinewithSpinachandRainbowChard

TheridgeoppositeTheEthicureaniscalledBlackDownThehighesthillin

TheridgeoppositeTheEthicureaniscalledBlackDownThehighesthillintheMendipsitiscoveredinamixtureofheatherandbrackenInitsshadowsarepatchesofdeciduouswoodlandwherewehavefoundwoodblewitmushroomswiththeexpertguidanceofourfriendandforagerAdrianBootsWoodblewitsgrowinleaflitterandrangeincolourfromlilactoarichpurple-pinkwithanintenselyperfumedaromaTheyhavebeensoldinEnglishmarketssincethethirteenthcenturyWeloveusingtheminthisterrinebutitisimportanttohavethemexpertlyidentifiedassomeharmfulvarietiescanbemistakenforthemAlwayscookthemthoroughlyastheyshouldnotbeeatenrawWildmushroomsvarydramaticallyinflavourdependingonthevariety

AnygoodediblewildmushroomsyoucangetyourhandsonwillworkperfectlywellhereIfyouareinterestinginpickingyourownbookyourselfontoagoodforagingcoursendashtheyareruninmostpartsofthecountryOtherwiseboughtbuttonmushroomsorbrownmushroomscanbeusedinthisrecipeandyouwillstillhaveadelectableterrineWewraptheterrineinamixtureofspinachandchardforaspectacular

appearanceandlayeritwiththecolourfulstalksofrainbowchardItsearthinessiscompletelyathomewiththemushroomsandspeltPearledspelthasafirmtextureandgentlenuttyflavourAlthoughitisatypeofwheatsomepeoplewithwheatintolerancesfinditeasiertodigestIthasbeeneateninBritainforthousandsofyearsandwasfavouredbytheRomansOurscomesfromSharphamParkclosetoGlastonburyinSomersetTheyareagreatoutfitandtrueproponentsofamoresustainablewayoffarming

SERVES6ndash8

300gpearledspeltasprigofrosemary2sprigsofthyme400mlvegetablestock(seehere)200gmixedspinachandrainbowchardpreferablywithlargeleaves50gsaltedbutter300gwildmushroomssuchasbluefoothedgehogfungussheeprsquosfootpennybunrussulaorslipperyjacks(orbuttonorbrownmushrooms)cutintoslices1cmthick

3mediumeggyolks1frac12tspDijonmustard

1frac12tspDijonmustard1frac12tspvintagecidervinegarsuchasOstlerrsquosrapeseedoilforbrushingfineseasalt

Putthespeltintoasaucepanwiththerosemaryandthymeaddthevegetablestockand550mlwaterandbringtotheboilCoverthepanreducetheheatandcookfor1ndash1frac12hoursuntilthespeltistenderbutstillretainsalittlebiteAlltheliquidshouldbeabsorbed

Meanwhileputalargepanofwaterontoboiladding3tablespoonsofsaltFillapanorbowlwithcoldwaterandiceandsetasideSeparatethestalksfromtheleavesofthespinachandchardkeepingtheleaveswholeChopthestalksinto3cmpiecesAddtheleavestotheboilingwaterandblanchfor30ndash45secondsthenremovewithaslottedspoonandtransferstraighttotheicebathThiswillhelpretainthevibrantcolourStirtheleavestochillthemquicklyOncetheyarethoroughlycoldremovethemacoupleatatimeandsqueezeasmuchmoisturefromthemaspossibleNextblanchthestalksintherapidlyboilingwaterfor1ndash1frac12minutesTransferthemtotheicebathandstirtochillrapidlythendrainandpatdrywithateatowelorkitchenpaperSeparatethelargespinachandchardleavesfromthesmallonesthenplacealltheleavesandstalksinthefridgeuntilrequired

Meltthebutterinasaucepanaddthemushroomsandapinchofsaltandcookoveramediumheatfor5ndash10minutesuntilthemushroomshavesoftenedSetasideretaininganyliquid

OncethespeltisdonepickouttheherbsanddiscardPutthespeltandmushroomsintoablenderorfoodprocessoraddtheeggyolksmustardvinegarandsomesaltandpulseuntilthoroughlymixedChecktheseasoningandaddmoresaltifrequiredContinuetopulseuntilthemixturehasafairlycoarsetextureWholegrainsofspeltmaystillbepresentbutthemajoritywillhavebeenbrokendownintoapasteChecktheseasoningoncemore

Lightlybrushan800gterrineorloaftinwithrapeseedoilandlineitwithalargepieceofclingfilmGentlycoaxtheclingfilmintothecornersoftheterrinemakingsurenottotearitthenfilltheterrinewithwaterAtthispointyouwillseeanyairbubblesbeneaththeclingfilmManipulatethe

pointyouwillseeanyairbubblesbeneaththeclingfilmManipulatetheclingfilmtoremovethemthenpouroutthewaterandcarefullydrytheinsideHavethelargerspinachandchardleavesatthereadyDrapethemdownonesideoftheterrinemakingsuretherearenogapssothetipofeachleafreachesthecentreofthebaseofthedishAnyexcessleafshouldoverhangtheedgeoftheterrineRepeatontheothersideandtheendsIfanyterrineisvisiblethroughtheleavesthenpatchtheseareasusingsmallerleavesuntilitiscompletelycovered

Decanthalfthespeltandmushroommixtureintotheterrineandpressdownuntilitiscompletelylevelandfillingall4cornersLayerthespinachandchardstalkslengthwaysendtoendontopofthespeltmixsothattheycompletelycoveritAddasecondlayerofstalksofdifferentcoloursifyouwishCoverthestalkswiththeremainingspeltmixsoitreachesthetopoftheterrineLayersomesmallerspinachorchardleavesoveritthenfoldovertheoverhangingleavessothatthespeltmixiscompletelywrappedinthespinachandchardleaves

Placeinthefridgeandleaveforatleast2hoursTurntheterrineoutpeelofftheclingfilmandthencutintoslicesandputthemonservingplatesCoverwithclingfilmandleavetocometoroomtemperaturefor30minutesbeforeservingItrsquosgreatwithbreadchutneyandafewsaladleaves

daggerSpinachwasonlyintroducedintoEnglandaroundthe1500spriorreferencestothisleafwouldhavementionedplantssuchaschicoryoracheandGoodKingHenry(Chenopodiumbonus-henricus)WehaveusedthelatteralotinourkitchenItcanbefoundalongroadsidesandoncultivatedlandWithtriangularorspear-shapedleavesitgrowsyear-roundandmakesagreatsubstituteforspinach

SwedishKnaumlckebroumldwithCottageCheesePickledBeetrootCarawayBeetrootCrispsandTomThumbLettuce

AutumnsignalsthestartofthegameseasonanditiseasytoeatnothingbutmeatatthistimeofwonderfulglutsThissaladisourwayofredressingthebalanceandofferingafreshstartertowhatmightbeameatyautumnalfeastWeuseLongleyrsquoscottagecheesewhichwefindfarsuperiortoallthe

otherswehavetriedItscleanlacticfreshnessworksparticularlywellwiththesweetnessofthebeetrootThespicesareheatedinadrypantohelpreleasetheiressentialoilsThis

makesthemmorepungentandwithgreaterdepthasifsomethingwithinthemhadcometolifeAsthearomafillstheairitisagreattimetothinkaboutwhatcharacteraspicehasSomewillshowmentholtonesotherswillberesinouscitrusgrassybitterWhenyoubreakdownthetasteintoseparatecomponentsitiseasytodecidewheretheymightbeusefulinrelationtootheringredientsCuminhasanearthyflavoursimilartothatofbeetrootCitruswillalsocomethroughmimickinglemonpeelwhichisanidealpairingwithbeetsCarawayisincludedheretoofferasweetspiceedgecomplementingthelightsournessintheryecrispbreadsItalsohasanisetoneswhichweheightenwiththeadditionoffennelseed

SERVES4

1tspcuminseeds1tspcarawayseeds2TomThumblettucesorotherroundsoftbutterheadlettuces225gcottagecheesepreferablyLongleyFarm4tbspPickledBeetroot(seehere)seasalt

FORTHEBEETROOTCRISPS

2Chioggiabeetroot(ifyoucanrsquotgetthemuseordinarybeetroot)icingsugarfordusting

FORTHEKNAumlCKEBROumlD

240mlmilk

240mlmilk45ghoneyfrac12sachet(35g)ofdriedactiveyeast270gwholemealflour80gryeflour30gspeltflourfrac12tspfineseasalt1tspcarawayseedstoastedinadryfryingpanandthencrushed1tspfennelseedstoastedinadryfryingpanandthencrushed1tspflakyseasalt

Tomakethebeetrootcrispsfinelyslicethepinkandwhitecandy-stripedbeetsthroughtheirequatorLaytheslicesonawirerackthatwillfitonanovenshelfDustthefinestpossiblelayeroficingsugaroverthemthenturnthemoverandrepeatPlaceinanovensetat50degC(orthelowestpossiblegassetting)andleavefor4ndash6hoursuntilcrunchyandcrisp

MeanwhilemakethebreadHeatthemilkandhoneyto45degC(justabovebodytemperature)SprinkletheyeastintoitandstiracoupleoftimesSetasidefor10minutesanditwillfrothastheyeastisactivated

SiftthefloursintoabowlandaddthefineseasaltandtoastedcrushedseedsPourintheyeastmixtureandstirtomakeadoughTurnitoutontoalightlyflouredsurfaceandkneadfor5minutesuntilsmoothandelasticReturnittothebowlcoverwithatowelandleaveinawarmplacetorisefor1hour

Heattheovento230degCGasMark8KnockbackthedoughbygivingitasmartpercussiveslapthatwillknocktheairfreeSatisfactionforthepacifistFoldthedoughoveracoupleoftimesandrollitbackintoaballthendivideitinto8piecesRollthesebackintoballscoverwithateatowelandleavetorestfor10minutes

Lightlydusttheworksurfacewithryeflourandrolleachballoutuntilitis2ndash3mmthickTransfertobakingsheetslinedwithnon-stickbakingpaperanduseapastrywheeloralargesharpknifetocutthemintolong(ish)rectanglesabout5cmwideSomewillbeshorterthanotherstheendsmight

rectanglesabout5cmwideSomewillbeshorterthanotherstheendsmightnotnecessarilybesquarebuttheflavourissettobebangonPrickthemlightlyalloverwithaforkandfinishwithacoatingofflakyseasaltPlaceintheovenandbakefor10minutesuntillightlybrownedTurnthemoverandcookforafewminutesmoretocolourtheothersideRemovefromtheovenandleavetocoolonawirerackTheywillkeepforaweekinanairtighttinbutgoodlucktryingnottoeatthemwiththecottagecheeseinthefridge

Toastthecuminandcarawayseedsinamedium-hotpanuntilthearomaisheavythentipthemoutontoaplatetocoolCrushthemtogetherwithalittlesaltandsetasideforuseasagarnishSeparatethelettuceleavesandplacetheminicedwaterfor20minutestocrispupDrytheleavesthenservethecrispbreadscottagecheesepickledbeetrootcubesandbeetrootcrispswithalittlepotofthefragrantseasonedcuminandcarawaygarnishingsalt

daggerFromahistoricalperspectiveitislikelythatthefirsteverattemptstomakecheeseresultedinafoodstuffsimilartowhatwenowcallcottagecheeseItisasimplecheesetomakeandonethatcanbeattemptedwithouttheneedforexpensiveorcomplicatedkitchenequipmentThefirstreferencestocottagecheesemakingintheUKdatebackto1831ThemilkwouldbebroughtintothehomeandplacedsomewherewarmwherethenaturalbacteriaincheesewouldproduceenoughacidforthemilktoformInthedayswhenfarmerstransportedmilkbynon-motorisedmeansthemilkwouldbeveryquicklyaffectedInevitablyitwoulddeveloptoomuchacidityparticularlyinwarmweatherCheesewasthereforeasimplebutbrilliantsolutionenablingthepreservationofvastquantitiesofmilkobtainedduringthemilkingseasonCottagecheesewasnotonlyeasytomakebutitwasoftenmadefromleftovermilkthathadalreadystartedtoturn

daggerCarawayisthoughttohavebeenamongthefirstspiceplantscultivatedinEuropeIndeedHaroldMcGeesuggeststhatcarawayhelpedtoshapeworldhistorylsquoancientEuropeanhungerforAsianspiceswasanimportantdrivingforceinthedevelopmentofItalyPortugalSpainHollandandEnglandintomajorseapowersduringtheRenaissancersquo(OnFoodandCooking2004)ThisgivesresonancetothesignificanceofcarawaytoourownlocalareagiventheimportanceofBristolasamainUKseaport

RoastCrownPrinceSoupwithTandooriSpiceWalnutOilandCrispSageLeaves

ThearrivaloftheCrownPrincesquashsignalstheendofautumnForusitisthekingofsquashesThissweetlyflavouredregalfriendisastapleingredientthatwillremainwithusformostofthewintermonthsItsvibrantorangefleshisdelicatelysweetandhasanexcellenttextureforroastingTheviolet-greyskinishardtocutthroughsoourchefsarmthemselveswiththeirbestknivestoreleasethegoldensumptuousnesswithinPerhapsduetoitsshapetheCrownPrinceissometimesreferredtoasapumpkinratherthanasquashBotharemembersoftheCucurbitaceaefamilycloserelativesofcucumberscourgettesandmelonsTheirfleshishighinwatersotheybenefitfromlongcookingwhichbringsouttheirhoneyednuttinessTheadditionofsagetothissoupwasarevelationItaddsanearthiermoremeatytonetothewholeensembleTryityouwillseeasideofsquashthatyoumighthaveneverseenbefore

SERVES4ndash612ndash14kgCrownPrincesquashpeeleddeseededandcutinto25cmcubesrapeseedoil500gonionsfinelysliced250gcarrotsfinelysliced250gcelery(orceleriac)finelysliced150gclarifiedbutter(seebelow)4ndash6smallsageleavesvintagecidervinegarsuchasOstlerrsquos2tbsptandoorispicemixwalnutoilfordrizzlingfineseasalt

Heattheovento180degCGasMark4SpreadthesquashcubesoutonaroastingtrayinasinglelayerLightlycoatwithrapeseedoilandafinescatteringofseasaltRoastfor30ndash45minutesstirringoccasionallyuntiltenderandbeginningtoblackenaroundtheedgesTakeoutoftheovenandsetaside

Heatatablespoonofrapeseedoilinasaucepanaddtheonionscarrotsand

Heatatablespoonofrapeseedoilinasaucepanaddtheonionscarrotsandceleryandcookoveramediumheatfor10ndash15minutesuntilthevegetablesaresoftenedbutnotcolouredAddthesquash1frac12teaspoonsofsaltandenoughwatertocoverBringtoasimmerandcookfor5minutesTransfertoablenderandblitzuntilsmoothAdjusttheconsistencyofthesoupbyaddingmorewaterifnecessaryseasonwithsaltandcidervinegartotasteandblitzoncemore

HeattheclarifiedbutterinasmallsaucepanuntilveryhotbutnotsmokingAddthesageleavesandcookfor1ndash2minutesuntiltheygoadarkshadeofgreenandarecrispDrainonkitchenpaperandkeepinawarmplacePassthesoupthroughafinesieveintoacleanpanandreheatgentlyDecantintoservingbowlsdustwiththetandoorispiceandgarnisheachportionwithacrispsageleafandagenerousdrizzleofwalnutoil

ClarifiedButterMelt250gunsaltedbutterinapanoveralowheatuntilthebutterhasseparatedGentlypourintoatallclearjugandleavetosettleWhenithasformedthreelayers(whitefrothytopclearyellowmiddleandwhitesolids)startskimmingTheaimistokeepasmuchoftheclearmiddlelayeraspossiblewhileremovingallofthemilksolidsUsingasmallladleskimoffthetoplayeranddiscardSlowlypourthebutterfatintoacleansaucepanleavingallthewhitemilksolidsbehind(discardthese)daggerThehistoryofsquashisratherinterestingMostvegetablefoodsleavenoarchaeologicaltracessquashisarareexceptionEvidencesuggeststhatitwasfirstcultivatedinCentralAmericamorethan8000yearsagoItisbelievedthattheEnglishwordforlsquosquashrsquoderivesfromthenativeAmericanwordaskutasquashwhichmeanslsquoeatenraworuncookedrsquoThisisasomewhatsurprisingchoiceofnamegiventhatsquashiscertainlynotatitsbestwheneatenrawItisevidentwhysquashwasastaplefoodbackthenitiseasytogrowhighincarbohydratesanddependablyversatileWhenitwaslatertransportedbytheSpanishconquistadorestoEuropeitwasinitiallyrejectedforbeingtooblandThefruit(foritisafruitratherthanavegetable)waslaterrediscoveredasitbecameknownforstoringwellandprovidingtheenergyrequiredforaharddayrsquosgraftinthecolderEuropeanclimate

Salt-bakedCeleriacPortobelloMushroomandAppleSoup

CeleriacrsquoscloserelationshiptoceleryisthereasonitispossibletodetecthintsofceleryinwhatwouldotherwisebeanuttyearthytastecommontorootvegetablesThisknobblyvegetableisnotverycommonoutsideEuropeWeliketoregarditasahiddengemItsdelicateaniseednotescoupledwithatouchofparsleyareintriguingandneverdisappointingInthisrecipewepairitwithPortobellomushroomstoenhancetheearthinessinherentintheceleriacAppleandceleryareaclassiccombinationandbeingsurroundedbyover70differentvarietiesofapplesattheWalledGardenwecouldnotresistthisadditionWefindthattheapplecomplementsthesoftcitrushintspresentinthisuglyducklingoftherootvegetableworldremarkablywell

SERVES8

125kgceleriac100gcoarseseasalt500gonionsslicedrapeseedoilbutter125gcarrotssliced250gPortobellomushroomssliced500mlwhitechickenstock(seehere)125gBlenheimOrange(orBramley)appleflakyseasaltwhitepepper

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6Peeltheceleriacandcutitinto4ndash6cmchunksItcanbedeterminedtoholditsformsogoeasywithyourhandsaroundtheknifeScatterthecoarsesaltoverabakingtrayandplacetheceleriacchunksontopCoverthetraywithaluminiumfoilsealingitwellaroundtheedgesBakefor30ndash45minutesuntiltheceleriacbeginstosoftenThesaltwillextractsomeofthemoistureandtheflavourwillintensify

Inalargesaucepansweattheonionsinalittlerapeseedoilandbutteruntil

InalargesaucepansweattheonionsinalittlerapeseedoilandbutteruntilsoftenedRemovetheceleriacfromthesaltbrushingawayanythathasstucktoit(thesaltcanbeusedagainforbakingvegetablesinthesamemanner)Addtheceleriaccarrotsmushroomschickenstockand500mlwatertotheonionsandbringtoasimmerCookfor30minutesoruntilthevegetablesarejustsofttothepointofaknife

PeelandgratetheappleLadlethesoupintoablenderfillingitonlyhalffullandblitzuntilsmoothPasstheblendedsoupthroughasieveintoacleanpanreturninganythingtoocoarsetotheremainingunblendedsoupBlendtheremainingsoupaddingthegratedapplethenstrainitintothepanandreheatgentlyTheapplewillremainafreshflavourifyouadditatthispointSeasonwithsaltandcrackedwhitepepperthenserve

Deep-friedAuberginewithRoseHipSyrup

WiththeirtannedskinandMediterraneanlooksyouwouldbeforgivenforthinkingthatauberginesgrowonlyinwarmerclimatesWhilsttheydorequireacertainamountofwarmthandwatertheyareperfectlyabletothriveinBritishsoilinthesummerndashorindoorswhenthetemperaturedropsTheybelongtothesamenightshadefamilyaspotatoesandtomatoesandarenotvegetablesinbotanicaltermsbutenormousberriesThegentlemenofthenightshadefamilytheyarerarelyassertiveInsteadtheyliketoblendwiththeirsurroundingsofferingasmoothdelicateflavourEveniftheirpresencesometimesbordersonthesideoffleshyitisstillwonderfullyunderstatedDespitetheoccasionalhintofbitternesstheyarefartoogoodmanneredforthistobecomeinsultingndashwhichisnottosaythattheyareblandsimplythattheyseektocomplementtheircompanionsratherthanimposeonthemSomewouldcallthisversatilityWefrytheauberginesinthisdishtoemphasisethecreaminessoftheir

fleshThepairingwithrosehipisintendedtoinjectsomeintensityofflavourthesyrupmagnificentlycounteractingtheslightbitternessintheaubergineWewouldrecommendexperimentingwiththeamountyouaddWestronglysuspectthataddinganindecentamountofsyruponthisoccasioncanonlybegoodforthesoulThereisstilllikelytobesomeleftoverItwillkeepforayearinasterilisedjarandcanbeservedwithDuckTerrine(seehere)orRabbitConfit(seehere)andisalsoverygoodwiththebrowniesonhere

SERVES4ndash62aubergines1litrerapeseedoilfordeep-fryingcornflourfordustingseasaltsheeprsquossorrelorcommonsorrelleavestoserve

FORTHEROSEHIPSYRUP

400grosehips375gcastersugar

Cuttheauberginesinto8cm-longchipsroughly5mmthickPlacethemin

Cuttheauberginesinto8cm-longchipsroughly5mmthickPlacetheminalargebowlandsaltlightlyensuringanevencoatingCoverandsetasidefor1hour

PuttherosehipsinafoodprocessorandblitzonfullspeeduntiltheyarecompletelybrokendownTransferthemtoasaucepanadd650mlwaterandbringtotheboilRemovefromtheheatandleavetoinfusefor20minutesTransferthemixturetoasievelinedwith2layersofwetmuslinsetoverabowlLeaveforabout30minutesuntilalltheliquidhasdrainedthroughPourtheliquidintoapanaddthesugarandbringtotheboilstirringtodissolvethesugarBoilfor5minutesoruntilreducedtoasyrupyconsistencythensetasidetocoolalittle

Heattherapeseedoilto170degCinalargedeepsaucepanoradeep-fatfryerWhiletheoilisheatinglightlycoattheaubergineincornflourFryinthehotoilinsmallbatchesforabout2minutesuntilcrispandlightlygoldenRemovefromtheoilusingaslottedspoonanddrainonkitchenpaperKeepwarmwhileyoucontinuethroughtheremainingbatchesensuringtheoilstayscloseto170degC

Arrangetheaubergineonservingplatesdresswiththerosehipsyrupandscatteroverthesheeprsquossorrelleavesifusing

daggerAuberginesarenotinfactaMediterraneanvegetabletheyoriginatedinIndiaandareknowntohavebeenpartoftheChinesedietfromasearlyasthefifthcenturyWehavetheArabstothankfortheintroductionofauberginesintoEuropehavingbeenbroughttoSicilyintheeleventhcenturyFoodwriterssuchasElizabethDavidplayedalargepartinintroducingthemtotheUKinthemid-1950s

PearNativeNapeHazelnutCardamomandEwersquosCheeseSalad

AutumnoffersusalotofpearvarietiesintheWalledGardenComiceandAnjoucanbeseenfromthewest-facingwindowsoftheglasshousewhilegrowingontheothersideofthewallintheorchardnearourbelovedquincetreeisalesser-knownvarietyBeurredrsquoAvalonIthasfirmwhitejuicyfleshwithaninitialsweetnessthatendsslightlysourItisspecifictoSomersetanditsnameisrootedinthemythologyofGlastonburyandlegendsofKingArthurFirstfoundintheareaaroundGlastonburyToritwasfinallyrecordedafewyearslaterin1842DuringthethirteenthcenturythenamesofAvalonandGlastonburybegantooverlapandstoriesweretoldofKingArthurdyingontheislandofAvalonThisislandhasalsobeenassociatedinCeltichistorywithapplesAllofthesethreadsofmythhistoryandnamingoffruithavebecomewovenintooneanotherThispearhasanequalflavourpartnerinFosseWayFleececheeseAhard

ewersquoscheesewithaclosesmooth-bodiedtextureandagentlenuttinessitismadebyPhilipRainbowandAnitaRobinsonoftheSomersetCheeseCompanyYoucanmaturethischeesetointensifyitsflavourwrapitinnon-stickbakingpaperandstoreinthesaladdrawerofthefridgeThekeyistokeepitinaplacewherethereislittleaircirculationsoitdoesnrsquotdryoutCheckiteveryfewdaysandwipeawayanymouldthatbuildsupNativeNapeisanair-curedhammadebyNativeBreedswhichproduces

someofthefinestcharcuteriewehavecomeacrossItisrunbyGrahamandRuthWaddingtonwhosourcenativeandrare-breedanimalsfromsmallfarmsinGloucestershiretomaketheiraward-winningproductsWedressthesaladwithcardamomandtruffledhoneyfromaBritish

companycalledTruffleHunter

SERVES4

200gNativeNapecuredham(orothergoodair-curedham)200gagedFosseWayFleececheese(orotheragedewersquoscheese)cutintoshavings

1largepearpreferablyBeurredrsquoAvaloncoredandslicedwaferthinonamandoline

40ghazelnutsroughlycrushed

40ghazelnutsroughlycrushed

FORTHEDRESSING

4tbspvintagecidervinegarsuchasOstlerrsquos2tspDijonmustard1tspgroundcardamom1tbsptruffledhoneyfrac14tspxanthangum(optionalbutrecommended)frac12tspfineseasalt100mlrapeseedoil

Tomakethedressingputalltheingredientsexcepttheoilinablenderandblitzfor30secondsSlowlypourintheoilwhiletheblenderisrunningasyouwouldformayonnaiseOncealltheoilhasbeenincorporatedblitzfor1minuteIfyouaremakingthisinadvancedecantintoasuitablebottleShakewellbeforeusing

PuttingthesaladtogethercouldnrsquotbeeasierDecorativelyarrangethehamsliceson4servingplatesandarrangetheshavedewersquoscheeseamongstthemAddtheslicesofpearlightlydresswiththedressingandscatterthecrushedhazelnutsoverthetop

PreservedDuckLegChorizoButterBeanandConfitTomatoPotStewwithYinYangBeans

InspiredbytheFrenchcassouletthispotstewisamixtureofallourfavouritethingsInsteadofharicotsweusebutterbeansfortheirfluffytextureandmildmineralflavourWealsoaddchorizomakingthissimilartotheSpanishstewsyouwouldfindinAsturiasMadebyVinceCastellanosourchorizoissublimewiththetomatoesandbeansWeserveourpotstewwithconfitducklegsalsoacomponentofthehallowedcassouletWetreatthetomatoesinthisrecipeinasimilarmannerroastingthemslowlyinalightcoatingofrapeseedoilwithplentyofseasoningWeareveryfondofthismethodofpreservinganditmaywellbecomeoneofyourfavouritestooTheyinyangorcaorcalypsobeanisaMexicanheirloomvarietythought

tobeover300yearsoldthatispassedaroundcarefullybygardenerswithawarningtotakecareofitandhelppreventitsdemiseItsdrought-resistantgrowingqualitiesshowwhyitishighlyvaluedconsistentlycroppingyearonyearServethestewwithanauthenticsourdoughloafndashitsdrytexturewillbe

perfectformoppingupthejuicesndashandabottleofPerryrsquosTremlettciderYouwillunderstandwhywerecommendthisciderthemomentaftertheheadyfarmsilagetastepassesandoddlyyouwanttodrinkthewholebottleinoneContraryforcesareinterconnectedandinterdependentinthenaturalworldaccordingtotheConceptofyinandyangandthiscidercertainlyembodiesthat

SERVES4

200gceleriac200gonionsrapeseedoil4garlicclovesfinelychopped4cookingchorizosausages300gbutterbeanssoakedfor24hoursin2changesofwaterthendrained500mlhamhockbroth(seehere)orwhitechickenstock(seehere)300mlcider

1teaspoonpar-cel(seehere)or1tbspchoppedceleryleaf4ConfitDuckLegs(seehere)100gyinyangbeans(ifunavailableusebroadbeansfreshpeasorsugarsnapscookedinboilingwaterfor1minutethendrained)

100gConfitTomatoes(seehere)cidervinegarseasalt

Heattheovento160degCGasMark3Peeltheceleriacandcutitinto2cmchunksChoptheonionstoroughlythesamesizeHeatalittlerapeseedoilinalargecasseroleaddtheceleriaconionsandgarlicandcookgentlyuntilsoftenedAddthechorizosausagesbutterbeanshamhockbrothciderandparcelBringtotheboilthenplacetheducklegsonthesurfaceCoverthecasseroletransfertotheovenandbakefor1frac34hoursAddtheyinyangbeansandthetomatoesandbakefor15minuteslongeroruntilthebeansaretenderSeasonwithsaltandcidervinegartotaste

daggerAcasserolemeanslsquoalargepotrsquotoustodayandformanyofusthatconstitutesacast-ironLeCreusetinheritedfromourparentsseasonedandcaredforWithinthispreciouspotmeatvegetablesandliquidareslowlycookedwiththelidonuntileverythingistenderandcaramelisedSetuponthetableitisservedstraighttotheplateeveryonefightingoverthecrunchyburntedgesElizaActonandMrsBeetonofferedrecipesforcasserolesveryunlikethekindwemaketodayincludingcuriousaffairsofricecrushedtoapasteandsmoothedtotheoutsideofthepan

WoodPigeonBreastswithPersianSpicedBulgarWheatCucumberAniseedandBlackCabbage

AtBarleyWoodthepigeonsarequitehappygrazingthecropscultivatedbythelocalfarmerandMarkthegardenerintheWringtonValeInautumntheyalsoenjoychestnutsandacornsandwheneveryoudisturbapairtheyclatterupwardstakingoffintothewindFromtheglasshouseyouseethemriseintothesouthwesterlytowardsCrookPeakWelovepigeonmeatCookedrareitisirresistiblewitharichredhue

thatistheresultofthisbirdrsquosabilitytotravelvastdistanceswithoutresting

WeserveitwithbulgarwheatseasonedwithourownspiceblendInIranthespicemixwouldbecalledadviehamixtureofspiceschosenfortheiruseinaparticulardishwithinfinitecombinationsTheancientSilkRoutetravelledthoughthenorthofIranandleftitsculinarylegacyCooksintheuplandsandthenorthwesternareasoftenincorporatethedelicatefragranceofdriedrosepetalsintotheiradviehWehavecombinedallspiceturmericcinnamonblackpeppersaffronraisinsandpistachiostomakeablendthatcomplementspigeonperfectlyWeservethisdishwithcrispblackcabbage(cavolonero)flash-friedin

rapeseedoilandcidervinegarwithapinchofcuminItiswithoutdoubtourfavouritewayofservingthisbrassicaFinallywegarnishthedishwithcucumberandanisebuttermilkTraditionallymilkwouldhavebeenleftovernighttoseparatesocreamcouldbechurnedintobutterWhatremainedwasthebuttermilkThickerthanmilkandthinnerthancreamithasasourtangthatisjustwonderfulwiththesweetcucumberandtherichspiceoftherestofthedishIfyoucannotfindbuttermilkthensouredcreamwillworkverywelltooJaneGrigsonwroteinEnglishFood(Macmillan1974)lsquoNocookery

belongsexclusivelytoitscountryoritsregionCooksborrowndashalwayshaveborrowedndashandadaptthroughthecenturiesrsquoWecertainlyhave

SERVES4100mlbuttermilkorGreek-styleyoghurtalittlerapeseedoil8woodpigeonbreastsskinned200gblackcabbage(cavolonero)stalksremovedapinchofgroundcumin1tbspcidervinegarflakyseasalt

FORTHESWEETPICKLEDCUCUMBER

1smallcucumbercutinto1cmdicefineseasaltcidervinegarcastersugar1tspaniseed

1tspaniseed

FORTHEPERSIANSPICEDBULGARWHEAT

300gbulgarwheat2tspsalt1frac12tbspgroundallspice1frac12tbspgroundcinnamon1tspgroundturmeric1tspgroundblackpepper6saffronstamens20graisins50gshelledroastedpistachionuts

Forthepickledcucumberweighthecucumbercubesthenlightlysaltthemandleavetodrainfor1hour

MeasureoutthesameweightofvinegarasthecucumberthendothesamewiththecastersugarPutthevinegarandsugarinasaucepanaddtheaniseedandbringtotheboilstirringtodissolvethesugarRemovefromtheheatandleavetocoolRinseanyresidualsaltfromthecucumberandmixitwiththevinegarandsugarsolutionStoreinthefridge(youwonrsquotneeditallforthisrecipebuttheremainderwillkeepfor4weeksandcanbeusedasasaladgarnishorasanaccompanimenttoaburger)Combine50gofthepickledcucumberwiththebuttermilkstirwellandrefrigeratetillneeded

Putalltheingredientsforthebulgarwheatinasaucepanadd600mlwaterandstiruntilcombinedPlaceoveramediumheatcoverandbringtotheboilReducetheheattoitslowestsettingandcookforabout30minutesoruntilthewheathasabsorbedalltheliquidStirtocheckithasnotcaughtonthebottomofthepanKeepwarmwhileyoucookthepigeonHeattheovento200degCGasMark6andputabakingsheetinittoheatupPlaceaheavy-basedfryingpanoverahighheatuntilitisreallyhotSplashadropofrapeseedoilontoeachpigeonbreastandrubitoveritDustlightlywithflakyseasaltTakethebakingsheetoutoftheovenLay4ofthepigeonbreastsinthefryingpanandcookfornolongerthan30secondspersideuntillightlybrownedPlacethemonthebakingsheetCleanthepanbrieflywithawadofkitchenpaperandrepeatwiththe4remainingbreastsPut

withawadofkitchenpaperandrepeatwiththe4remainingbreastsPutthemintheovenandcookfor2frac12minutesforpinkandperfectlycookedor3minutesformediumTransferthemtoaboardtorestwhileyoucooktheblackcabbage

HeatalittlerapeseedoilinafryingpanaddthecabbagecuminandalittlesaltandfryuntiljustheatedthroughAddthecidervinegarthesteamfromthevinegarwillcookthecabbageinafewsecondsOncetheliquidhasevaporatedtipthecontentsintoawarmservingdish

SlicethepigeonbreastsandserveaccompaniedbythecabbageandbulgarwheatalongwithaspoonfulofthebuttermilkdressingWarnyourfellowdinerstobemindfulofanyleadshotthatmaybehiddeninthebreasts

daggerHistoricallyeatenbythearistocracyandnotcommonersupuntiltheseventeenthcenturyonlythelordofthemanorwaspermittedtobuildadovecoteThesestructureswereoftenimpressiveandmanyresembleourciderbarnwhichisofroundNormandesignThedovemanurewouldhavebeenusedasfertilisernotanapproachthatiscommonlypractisedtoday

ChickenMole

Theintricaciesofmole(pronouncedlsquomo-layrsquo)werenotfullyunderstoodbyusuntilMatthewandPaucirclacamebackfromavisittoPaucirclarsquoslargeboisterousfamilyinMexicoItwasamemorableexperienceinwhichtheyhadeatensomeformofchilliateverysinglemealBreakfastwasnotsparedfromthisjoyfulandsometimespainfulchillimarathonItwasinfactthemostimportantmealofthedaythechoiceofchillibeingparamountForMexicanschilliisasimportantassaltandpepperItisanessentialmeansofseasoningandlackofchilliinamealisfrowneduponunlessyouareaveryyoungchildpracticallyababyItwasblissCapsaicinisthechemicalfoundinchilliesthatmakesthemspicyItis

believedtostimulatetheproductionofendorphinsinthebraincausingsomepeopletofeelasenseofeuphoriawheneatingspicyfoodswhichcanbecomemildlyaddictiveForMatthewandPaucirclaitwascertainlyalotoffuntopushtheendorphinboundariesthroughtheconsumptionofendlesschilliestimeandtimeagainTheirwithdrawalsymptomsstartedbecomingapparentthemomenttheysteppedofftheplaneandwerefacedwithanoverlysweetbreakfastcerealSobackinTheEthicureankitchenaplanwassetinmotiontoattempttocrackthequintessentialMexicanchillichocolatedishwithasmanyBritishingredientsaspossibleThewordlsquomolersquocomesfromthepre-hispanicNahuatlmeaninglsquosaucersquoIt

isunlikelythattheAztecsaddedanychocolatetotheirmolesauceoriginallyndashitwassimplyacombinationofchilliesWithtimeeachregioninMexicodevelopeditsownmoleandtherearenowamultitudeofcolourfulversionsrangingfromredtogreenandevenapinkonefromthetownofTaxcoTheMexicanestateofOaxacaalonehassevendifferentversionsofmolePaucirclarsquosgrandmothertookthelaborioustaskofcookingmolevery

seriouslyHercollectionofspicesstoodinjarsonthekitchenshelvesreadytobecalledintoactionTheaimwastomakeathickshimmerysauceandyouknewitwasreadythemomentthespoonwasabletostandupinitonitsownEpazoteisahighlypopularherbinMexicancookingManypeople

considerittobeaweedsoitisveryeasytogrowevenintheUKYoushouldbeabletobuyseedsonlinebutifyouprefernottogrowititispossibletobuyitasadriedherbtooAlternativelyyoucansubstitutewintersavory

savoryItishighlylikelythatyouwonrsquotbeabletogetthechillieslistedinthis

recipeatyourlocalsupermarketDonotbeputoffbythisTheyarewellworthtrackingdownandasimplesearchonlinewillrevealseveralsuppliersHavingthemdeliveredtoyourdoorwillsaveyouatriptotheshopsMoleistraditionallyservedwithturkeyorchickenThebrinefor

seasoningthechickenhastobemadeinadvanceasitneedstobechilledItwillkeepindefinitelyinthefridgesomakeitatyourleisure

SERVES8

2free-rangechickensfrac12garlicheadrapeseedoil8mulatochillies8guajillochillies4anchochilliesadashofcidervinegar1kgtomatoes300gonionschopped4slicesofstalebreadcutintosmallcubes150gdriedcobnutsorhazelnutsfinelygroundinafoodprocessor150gunsaltedpeanutsfinelygroundinafoodprocessor150graisins1tspgroundallspicefrac12tspgroundclovesfrac12tspgroundcumin1tbspdriedepazote(or2tbspfreshepazote)2litresbrownchickenstock(seehere)1tbspsalt150gdarkchocolatewith75ndash80percentcocoasolids50gmuscovadosugar

FORTHE8PERCENTBRINE

80gsalt80gdarkmuscovadosugar

80gdarkmuscovadosugar1tbspdriedepazote(or2tbspfreshepazote)1bayleaf

TOFINISH

16ndash24corntortillas4tbspsesameseedsfriedinadryfryingpanuntillightlycoloured4tbspcoarselychoppedcoriander

Putallthebrineingredientsinapanwith1litreofwaterandbringtotheboilLeavetocooltoroomtemperaturethenchill

RemovetheskinfromthechickensandsetasideCutthebreastsandlegsfromthechickensthendividethelegsintodrumsticksandthighs(keepthecarcassesforstockseehere)Placethethighsdrumsticksandbreastsinthebrineandleavefor2hours

MeanwhilemakethesauceHeattheovento180degCGasMark4Wrapthegarlicinfoilwithasplashofrapeseedoilandbakefor20minutesLeavetocoolandthensqueezeouttheroastedpulpBreakopenthedriedchilliesandremovetheseedsRehydratethechilliesbyplacingtheminabowlofhotwaterwithadashofvinegarandleavingtocoolDrainandchopfinelytryingnottostainyourfingersasthecapsaicinwillremain

Scoreeachtomatowithacrossonthebaseputtheminapanofsimmeringwaterfor2minutesthendrainandpeelofftheloosenedskinsChopthetomatoesroughlykeepingallthejuiceandseedsseparatelyPourtheseedsandjuicethroughafinesieveintoabowlreservingthejuice

Dividethechickenskinbetween2hotfryingpansandcookuntilitisbrownandthefathasbeenreleasedDiscardtheskinbutkeepthefatinthepansAddtheonionsbreadnutsandraisinstoonepanandthetomatoesandtheirjuicechilliesspicesandepazotetotheotherOncetheonionsarebeginningtocolourtransferthemixturetoalargesaucepanandaddthechickenstockLetthetomatoescontinuetocookuntiltheyarebrokendownaddingasplashofwaterifthemixturestartstolookdryTransferthetomatoestothesaucepanalongwiththesaltAddthechocolateroastgarlicandsugarstirthensimmerwiththelidofffor45minutesoruntil

andsugarstirthensimmerwiththelidofffor45minutesoruntilthickenedstirringregularly

Meanwhilepoachthebrinedchickeninalargepanofbarelysimmeringwaterfor35minutesThewatershouldhardlybemovingresultinginsucculentpaleandmoistchickenWarmthetortillasPuttheminabasketandcoverwithadamphotteatoweltoretaintheheatandkeepthempliableStripthechickenmeatofftheboneandserveonthetortillastoppedwithlashingsofmolethenscatteroverthetoastedsesameandcoriander

VenisonCiderandQuinceStewwithHerbedButterDumplings

AsthecropsareharvestedthestubbledfieldsspelltheendoffieldcoverfortheroedeerSoontheleaveswillbegintocolouranddropmakingitmoredifficultforthemtohidefromthestalkerTheruthasfinishedandbucksnolongerfixatedonmatingarealittletheworseforwearandlackinginenergyFamilygroupsbegintoformastheterritorialactivityoflatesummersubsidesTheyhavespentthepreviousmonthsfatteningthemselvesforthecomingwinterandasthefarmersmovethecattlefromthepasturesaroundBarleyWooditseemsagoodtimetobringhomearoebuckForstewingweusetheneckorshoulderndashdonrsquotcombinethemasthecookingtimewillvaryTheneckcontainsafairamountofconnectivetissuewhichwillneed

varyTheneckcontainsafairamountofconnectivetissuewhichwillneedslowcookingtotenderiseitThisisarecipewemakebeforeadayrsquospickingintheorchardndashonefora

weekendwhenyoursquoretidyingthegardenbeforewinterorjustrelaxingCookingthevenisoninciderisidealastheaciditydoesmarvellousthingsAstewneedsanighttocooldownslowlysothatthemeatreabsorbsitsjuicesbecomingmoresucculentNostewcanpossiblybeservedwithoutdumplingsWersquoveoftencaught

JackeatingthemallontheirownwhenwersquovemadetoomanyTheyareverywelcomeduringautumnwhenweneedatouchmorestodgeElizaActonHannahGlasseandConstanceSprygivenumerousrecipesforSuffolkandNorfolkdumplingsandthemainstyleseemstobeforalsquoharddumplingrsquothatcontainsneithersuetnorbutterWemakeourfluffydumplingswithflourbutterandeggsandtheyresemblethoseeatenincentralEuropeChoppedfreshherbsaddfragrance

SERVES6ndash8

200ggoosefat12kgvenisonneckorshouldercutinto3ndash4cmchunks900gredonions450gcarrots225gceleriac2quinces600mlbeefstock(seehere)300mlcider1bayleaf8sprigsofthyme1tbspjuniperberries1tbspdriedpineappleweed(optional)togarnishcidervinegarseasaltandblackpepper

FORTHEHERBEDBUTTERDUMPLINGS

390gself-raisingflour3eggs105gsaltedbutterdiced

105gsaltedbutterdiced1frac12tspsalt2tbspchoppedmixedherbssuchassagethymeparsleyandmintafewtbspdoublecreamblackpepper

Heatsomeofthegoosefatinalargeheavy-basedfryingpanandfrythepiecesofvenisoninsmallbatchesuntilcolouredallovertransferringthemtoalargecasseroleastheyaredoneCuttheonionscarrotsandceleriacintolargechunksndashtheyshouldbetoobigtoeatinonemouthfulastheyaregoingtospendalongtimeinthestewColourtheminthepaninwhichthemeatwasbrownedaddingmoregoosefatasnecessary(thegenerousamountoffatisneededforthisrecipeasvenisonisaleanmeat)Addthevegetablestothecasserole

WashthesoftdowncoatingoffthequincesandthencoreandchopthemtheiraromawillbepineapplerichAddtothecasserolewithalltheremainingingredientsexceptthepineappleweedvinegarandseasoningThecasseroleneedstogointheovenbutdonrsquotpreheatitasitbenefitsfromareallyslowriseintemperatureasHaroldMcGeeadvisesinhisseminalbookOnFoodandCooking(seeboxopposite)Starttheovenat95degC(orthelowestpossiblesettinginagasoven)puttingthecasseroleinwiththelidofftothesideslightlytoallowsomeevaporationThiswillslowlyraisetheinternaltemperatureto50degCLeavefor2hoursthenincreasetheoventemperatureto120degCGasMarkfrac12whichshouldincreasethetemperatureto80degCCookfor1ndash2hourswiththelidstillaskewthentestthemeatfortendernesswithaknifeKeepcheckingathalf-hourintervalsuntilyouaresatisfieditistenderenoughTastethesauceanddecideifyouwouldliketoreduceittoconcentratetheflavourTodothisremovethemeatandvegetablesfromthecasseroleandsetasidePlacethesauceoverahighheatandletitsimmervigorouslyforabout5minutesuntilslightlyreducedinvolumeTasteanddecideifthisstrengthsuitsyouRepeatuntiltheflavourisasyoulikeitthenseasonwithsaltpepperandadashofcidervinegarReturnthemeatandvegetablestothecasseroleandleavetocoolovernightthenchillitinthefridgethenextmorningItwillbereadyafteragentlereheatwhilethedumplingsarebeingmade

Tomakethedumplingssifttheflourintoafoodprocessorandaddtheeggs

TomakethedumplingssifttheflourintoafoodprocessorandaddtheeggsbuttersaltherbsandblackpepperProcessuntilthemixtureresemblesbreadcrumbsthenwiththemachinestillrunningslowlypourinenoughcreamtoformadoughLettheprocessorturnforacoupleofminutestostretchthedoughItshouldbefluffywithaslightlytackyexteriorandbreakaparteasilyIfnotaddadashmorecreamandmixagainTakethedoughoutandshapeinto25cmballsKeepcoveredbeforecookingthem

Poachthedumplingsinalargepanoffast-boilingwaterinbatchesof8ItisessentialthatthewaterisboilingrapidlysotheyfluffupquicklyTheywillfloattothesurfaceastheybegintocookCookforafurther2minutesfromthispointthenremovewithaslottedspoonServethedumplingsdroppedintothattoothsometenderstewwithalightdustingofthechamomilerelativepineappleweedroughlychoppedifyouhaveany

HaroldMcGeemakessomeinterestingpointsonstewingmeatinhisbookOnFoodandCooking(HodderampStoughton2004seehere)ThemoreamuscleisusedthemorecollagenitwillcontainandthetougheritwillbeButwhenyouheatcollagento70ndash80degCitisconvertedintogelatinewhichissoftwobblyeasilydissolvedandkeepsmeatbeautifullytenderHoweveratthistemperaturealthoughthecollagenisconvertedintogelatineyoualsolosemoisturewhichmakesthemeatdrierMcGeersquosmethodthereforeadvocateskeepingthemeatbelow50degCforalongtimewhichweakensthecollagenthenquicklyraisingthetemperaturewhenthemeatisalmostcookedtoconvertthecollagenintogelatineThiswillretainmoreofthemoisturethanifthemeathadstayedataconstant80degCthroughouttheentirecookingtimeItsoundscomplicatedbutinrealityitisjustthescientificexplanationoftheslow-cookingtechniquewehaveusedforhundredsofyears

QUINCE

ApplesandquincegrowsidebysideinourorchardweonlyhaveonequincetreeanditscropisprizedbyusThesebrightyellowfruitresembleaplumppearandtheyhaveadownyfurthatgrowsontheirskinTheirperfumeisfreshandfloweryandistheresultoflactonesandviolet-likeiononescontainedintheskin(seeHaroldMcGeeOnFoodandCookingpage357)Intheprocessofstewingthetanninsarebrokenupandasaresultthemellowflavourandapple-liketextureofquincecanbeenjoyed

FishSoupwithSpicedHeritageTomatoesFennelSeedandEnglishTruffleOilToast

ThissoupisaquesttocombinetwoofourmajorobsessionscurryspicesandtrufflesAtfirstthismightseemanunlikelymarriageReasondictatesthatthesestrongflavourshavethepotentialtooverpoweranysoupHoweverthefinessearisingfromtheuseofheirloomtomatoesmakesthewholedishaharmoniousspice-infusedaffairHeirloomvarietieshavedesirablecharacteristicsthathavebeenpasseddownforgenerationsandtheyarefarsuperiorintastetoblandcommercialvarietiesToaddfreshtrufflestothissoupmightbeconsiderednotonlyextravagant

butdownrightcavalierInsteadweuseadashoftruffleoilforboththesoupandthetoastTruffleHunterbasedintheCotswoldsmakesanoilfromEnglishrapeseedoilandEnglishblacksummertrufflesthatisgoodenoughtomatchitsItaliancounterpartsTheresultisawarmingterracotta-colouredvelvetysoupthatwillinspireanyonetoheadouttotheBritishcountrysideinsearchofthatcovetedEnglishtruffleTrainingofOchoourresidentdoghascommencedItrsquosbesttoavoidoilyfishsuchasmackerelsalmonortunahereInstead

sticktowhitefishsuchaslingsole(lemonDoverwitchordab)pollockandcuttlefishSquidalsoworkswellandfromasustainabilitypointofviewisregardedasoneofbestfishtoeatndashparticularlyifyoucanfindsquidfromsmallseasonalBritishfisheries

SERVES4

500gtomatoes(thebestyoucanfind)rapeseedoil450gonionsroughlychopped250mlfishstock(seehere)4garliccloveschopped2heapedtbspDijonmustard400gwhitefishfilletsskinonandcleanedsquidcutinto25cmpieces1tspgroundturmeric

FORTHESPICEBLEND

2tspfennelseeds

2tspfennelseeds1tspaniseed1tspcorianderseeds2blackcardamompods15gsalt1tspgroundcinnamon1tspgroundcardamomfrac12tbspgroundturmeric

TOFINISH

250gsourdoughbreadcutintoslices25cmthickrapeseedoiltruffleoil1tspnigella(blackonion)seeds1tspfennelseedscrushedcoarseseasalt

Tomakethespiceblendheattheseedsandcardamominadryfryingpanfor2ndash3minutestoreleasetheiroilsCrushthemfinelyinapestleandmortarwiththesaltthenstirinthegroundspices

Scoreacrossonthebaseofeachtomatoputtheminapanofboilingwaterfor2minutesthendrainandpeelofftheskinsQuarterthetomatoesandscoopouttheseedsandjuiceintoasievesetoverabowlPressontheseedswiththebackofaspoontoensureyougetasmuchjuiceaspossiblethendiscardthem

HeatalittlerapeseedoilinalargepanaddtheonionsandcookuntilsoftenedbutnotcolouredStirinthespiceblendandcookforafewminutesthenaddthetomatoesandtheirjuicefishstockgarlicmustardand250mlwaterBringtoasimmerandcookcoveredfor40minutesPureacuteethesoupinablenderorfoodprocessorandthenpourintoacleanpanthroughafinesievetocatchanylargespicepiecesReheatgently

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6CutthesourdoughslicesintosquaresandtosstheminabowlwithadrizzleofrapeseedoilandanevensmallerdrizzleofthepungenttruffleoilAddsomecoarsesaltshakethroughonce

drizzleofthepungenttruffleoilAddsomecoarsesaltshakethroughoncemorethenspreadoutonabakingsheetandbakefor7ndash8minutesuntilgoldenalloverKeepthetoastsomewherewarmwhilethefishisfried

Placealargenon-stickfryingpanoveramediumheatAddasplashofrapeseedoiltothehotpanthenfrythefishforabout3minutesuntilithascolouredslightlythendustwiththeturmericandfryfornolongerthanaminutemore

LadlethesoupintobowlsdividethefriedfishandsquidbetweenthemanddrizzleasmidgenmoretruffleoilontopFinishwithafewnigellaseedsandcrushedfennelseeds

TRUFFLES

TrufflesaretheendearinglyshymembersofthefungusfamilyUnliketheirbrashovergroundrelativeswhoexplodeinamyriadofshapesandsizesunfazedbythethoughtofbeingspottedbyakeenmycophiletrufflesrsquointroverteddemeanourfindsthemdeepundergroundhavingformedanamicablerelationshipwiththerootsofasuitabletreeFranceandItalyarepopularareasfortrufflehuntersbuttheycancertainlybefoundinBritainin

limestoneorchalkareasupanddownthecountryTheRoyalBotanicalRecordsatKewdocumenttruffleshavingbeenfoundinourlocalareaThetraditionalwaytofindthemuch-prizedfungiisthroughtheuseofpigsalthoughdogsarenowmuch

morecommonlyusedEnglishtrufflescanbefoundfromJulyallthroughthewinter

Slow-braisedGoatrsquosLegwithCiderShallotsLentilsandGlazedCarrots

DuringautumnmuchofthegoatthatweusecomesfromStawleyFarminWellingtonOntheir20acresoflandCarolineAtkinsonmakesafreshcheeseusingrawmilkfromthegoatsfarmedbyherhusbandWillKiddingndashthegoatequivalentoflambingndashtakesplacearoundAprilThebillieswiththeirobviouslackofmilkingpotentialaredestinedforourpotAtthebeginningofautumntheyarearound5monthsoldandweigh10ndash12kgThelegsarejustrightforgentlebraisingTheprinciplesofstewingdiscussedonherearejustasrelevanttothisrecipeNotonlyisliquidaneffectivemeansoftransmittingheatbutitsflavourenhancesthefoodthatiscookedinitAttherestaurantMatthewandIainpressurecookthelegratherthan

braisingitintheovenBothcookingmethodswillgiveimmaculatelytendermeatthatfallsawayfromthebonePressurecookinghasitsownbenefitshowever(seehere)andwefinditthemostreliablewaytoachieveperfectionhereVeryfewingredientsarecookedwiththegoatbuttheshallotsandcarrots

playacrucialroleTheshallotsoffernaturalsugarsaswellassharpnessandasavouryflavourThecarrotsaretheirsidekickreleasingsugarsgraduallyduringtheslowcookingtimeWeservethegoatwithPuylentilswhichholdtheirtextureandhavea

uniquepepperyflavourWeusethesamevegetablesforboththelentilsandthebraiseWehonestlythinkgoathasnevertastedasgoodasitdoesinthisrecipeItisamealofclassiccleanflavoursfoodforthesoul

SERVES4ndash6rapeseedoil100gshallots(orspringonions)finelysliced200gcarrotsfinelysliced100gwhitemushroomsfinelysliced300mlmediumcidersuchasPerryrsquosMorganSweet500mlbrownchickenstock(seehere)2tbspcuminseeds

1tbspfineseasalt1goatrsquoslegshankremovedsoonlythethighremains

FORTHELENTILS

rapeseedoil150gonionsveryfinelydiced100gcarrotscutintosmallcubes50gbrownmushroomscutintosmallcubes350gPuylentils200mlbrownchickenstock(seehere)cidervinegarfineseasalt

FORTHEGLAZEDCARROTS

8ndash12small-mediumcarrotspeeledbutleftwhole125gunsaltedbuttercutinto25cmcubes1frac12tspfineseasalt1tbspcuminseeds1tbspcorianderseeds

TobraisethegoatpourathinfilmofrapeseedoilintoalargepressurecookerandplaceonahighheatAddtheshallotscarrotsandmushroomsandcookfor10ndash15minutesuntiltheybegintocolourDeglazethepanbyaddingtheciderandscrapinganystickybitsawayfromthebasewithawoodenspoonAddthechickenstockcuminseedssaltandthegoatrsquoslegPlacethelidonthepressurecookerandkeepoverahighheatWhenthecookerreachesfullpressureturntheheatdowntolowandmaintainatfullpressurefor2hoursRemovefromtheheatandallowtocoolnaturallywithoutventingthepressurecooker

Forthelentilsheatathinfilmofrapeseedoilinasaucepanaddthevegetablesandsweatfor5ndash10minutesuntilsoftenedAddthelentilsandstirthroughPourinthechickenstockadd550mlwaterandbringtotheboilCoverthepanreducetheheatandcookfor25ndash30minutesuntilthelentilsaretenderandhaveabsorbedalltheliquidSeasontotastewithfineseasaltandasmalldashofcidervinegarItisimportantnottosaltthelentilsbefore

andasmalldashofcidervinegarItisimportantnottosaltthelentilsbeforetheyarecookedortheywillbetoughandchewy

FortheglazedcarrotsputthecarrotsintoasaucepanjustlargeenoughtoholdtheminasinglelayerAddthebuttersaltandspicesandplaceoveramediumheatuntilthebutterhasmeltedTurntheheatdownalittlecoverandcookfor20ndash25minutesshakingthepanoccasionallyforevencookingWhenthecarrotsaresofttakeoffthelidandturntheheatuphightocaramelisethemlightlyRemovefromthepanandsetasidesomewherewarm

Afterthepressurecookerhascooledforatleast40minutesandthesafetylockhasreleasedremovethelidTakeoutthelegandleavetorestonaboardinawarmplaceStraintheliquidfromthepressurecookerthrough4layersofwetmuslinintoacleanpanThismayseemexcessiveanditisoptionalbutthestockwillformasauceandstraininghelpsremoveimpuritiesthatwouldcloudthesaucedetractingfromthefinaldish

SkimoffanyexcessfatfromtheliquidthenbringtotheboilandsimmeruntilreducedbyaboutathirdSeasonwithsalttotaste

ToservecarvethegoatrsquoslegandputitonservingplateswiththelentilsandcarrotsPouroveraliberalamountofthereducedbraisingliquidandfinishwithalittlesprinklingofseasalt

IfyoubraisethelegintheovenratherthanapressurecookercolourthevegetablesinalittlerapeseedoilinasaucepanoverafairlyhighheatthentransfertoaroastingtrayAddthegoatrsquoslegandenoughciderandchickenstocktocomeaboutathirdofthewayupitndashyoumayneedmoreliquidthanthequantitystatedaboveSeasonwiththeseasaltandcoverwith2layersoffoilPlaceinanovenpreheatedto120degCGasMarkfrac12androastfor4ndash5hoursuntilthemeatisimpeccablytenderCheckitevery30ndash45minutestoensurethereisstillenoughliquidtoppingupwithasplashmorechickenstockciderorwaterifnecessaryWhenyoumakethesaucetheliquidmayrequirereducingmorethanathirdtogetthecorrectflavoursokeep

reducingmorethanathirdtogetthecorrectflavoursokeeptastingitandstopwhenyouarehappywithit

PRESSURECOOKING

OurpressureCookersatTheEthicureanareconstantlyutilisedforawealthoftasksrangingfromvastquantitiesofstocktotheslowbraisingoftoughercutsofmeatsrightthroughtothecookingofourbeansandpulsesThepressurecookerisanunsungherointhekitchenWhenitcomestostockspressureCookingachievesadepthof

flavourthatwouldotherwisebeunobtainableThiscomesdowntotwoverysimpleconceptsfirstwhenmakingstocksbytheconventionalmethodthelidisuncoveredThisresultsinwhatarecalledlsquovolatilearomarsquomoleculesrisingoutofthestockAlthoughthismaysmelldelightfulwhatyouaresmellingislostflavourPressurecookershavelidsthatpreventthesearomasfromescapingandwhenusedcorrectlyandallowedtocoolthesearomascondenseinsidethepanandendupbackinthestockLessflavourislostincomparisonwithtraditionalmethodsAndwhilethelidstopsthearomasfromescapingpressurebuildsinsidethepanAtsealevelwaterboilsat100degCgiveortakeafewvariations

dependingonweatherInorderforwatertoboilenergy(intheformofheat)hastolsquopushrsquothewaterupharderthantheatmosphericpressurelsquopushesrsquothewaterdownWhentheforcepushingupisgreaterthantheforcepushingdownwaterboilsAtthetopofMountEveresttheatmosphericpressureislessthanitisatsealevelSowhenclimbersboilwaterathighaltitudesthewaterrequireslessenergy(heat)tolsquopushrsquothewaterupInfacttheboilingpointofwateratthetopofMountEverestisdramaticallyreducedandissomewherecloserto70degCInrelationtopressurecookingtheoppositeisalsotrueIfyouincreasetheatmosphericpressurethereismorepressurepushingdownonthewaterandwhatyouareleftwithisaboilingpointthatisabove100degCThisisbecausetoboilwaterunderpressureittakesmoreenergy(heat)topushthewaterupagainsttheatmosphericpressurepushingthewaterdownYouraverage

atmosphericpressurepushingthewaterdownYouraveragepressurecookerisdesignedtotakethetemperatureofwaterto120degCIainandMatthewarefascinatedbytheideaofsuper-heatedwaterbecauseflavoursarediffusedintothestockatagreaterrateathighertemperaturesndashandwestrivetocreategreaterdepthofflavourwitheverypressurecookingattemptTherearefurtheradvantagestousingapressurecookerat

homePressurecookersrequirelesswaterforcookingthefooddoesnothavetobeimmersedinliquidasthecookercontainssteamaswellasliquidThismeansthatlessenergyisrequiredtoheattheliquidtothedesiredtemperaturendashsomethingthatisverymuchinlinewithourstrongbeliefinreducingenergyconsumptionVitaminsarealsosaidtobepreservedmoreefficientlywhencookedunderpressureduetothesmallerquantitiesofliquidneededcombinedwiththefastercookingtimenutrientshavelessopportunitytoleachoutintothewaterWhenapressurecookerisusedcorrectlyliquidwillnotcome

totheboilWithstocksthatarehighlyvaluedforclaritythisisahugepositiveTakeyourtraditionalstockmethodforasimplestockbonesareroastedputinwaterwithvegetablesandherbsandcookedfor4hoursUsuallyastockwillbubbleawayrelativelyunattendedformostofthistimewiththecookoccasionallyskimmingoffimpuritiesIntheprocessofastockbubblingthebubblescreatemovementthroughthewaterwhichinturnbreaksdownvegetablematterintotinypiecesNotonlythatbutmotioncreatedbywaterboilingemulsifiesanyfatsintothestockAllofthatvegetablematterandfatresultinacloudystockInapressurecookerwatersitsmotionlessat120degCWhatyouareleftwithisaclearstockwhichcaninturnbeusedtoproducecrystal-clearsaucesorprovidethehiddenpunchofflavourthatmakesyourdishahit

PheasantKievwithWinterTarragonandStrawberryMyrtle

TheepitomeofautumncomfortfoodthiswasonthemenuduringTheEthicureanrsquosfirstmonthWeopenedinOctoberaboutamonthintothepheasantseasonandthiswasourplayonchickenKievndashasuperiorversioninouropinionduetothecomplexnatureofpheasantThehistoryoftheKievbeginsinRussiaandendsmostlyinthesupermarketchillercabinetAsaconceptitisflawlesscrispbreadcrumbedmeatoozingwithgarlicherbsandbutterForthefillingweaddtwoveryunderusedingredientsThefirstis

strawberrymyrtleanevergreenshrubthathasbrightredberriesaboutthesizeofcranberriesinautumnTheyarereminiscentofspicedstrawberryandtakefirst-timetasterscompletelybysurpriseJekkaMcVicartellsusthattheywereQueenVictoriarsquosfavouritefruitandshewouldoftenhavethemsentupfromCornwallTheirfruityspiceisacompletehitwithpheasantbutshouldyounotbeabletofindthemjuniperwilldoagoodjobtooThesecondspecialingredientiswintertarragon(Tageteslucida)aperennialwithdistinctlyaniseed-flavouredleavesItcanbepickedwhenFrenchtarragonisnolongeravailableandhalftheamountisneededForPaucirclaithasaparticularrelevanceastheflowerofwintertarragonformspartofthedecorationsduringthediacuteadelosmuertosortheDayoftheDeadIthasrootsinSouthAmericanculturethatgorightbacktotheAztecsandisstillusedbymanyMexicanIndiansasaningredientinincense

SERVES4

4largepheasantbreastsskinned100gsoftenedsaltedbutter2tbspfinelychoppedwintertarragon3tbspstrawberrymyrtle(orjuniper)2largeeggsbeaten250gstalebreadmadeintofinebreadcrumbs30gplainflourfineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperValorPotatoMash(seehere)toserve

FORTHEBRINE

40gfineseasalt2tspfennelseeds

2tspfennelseeds1tspfreshlygroundblackpepper

BeginbymakingthebrinendashthiscanbedonewellinadvanceandkeptinthefridgeuntilneededPutthesaltandspicesinasaucepanwith500mlwaterandbringtotheboilImmediatelyremovefromtheheatandleavetocoolthentransfertoaplasticboxandchillthoroughly

Putthepheasantbreastsinthebrineandleavefor2hoursDrainoffthebrinepourcoldwateroverthepheasantandleavefor2minutesDrainagainandpatdryonkitchenpaperKeepinthefridgeuntilneeded

MeanwhilemashtogetherthebutterandtarragonusingthebackofaforkDivideitinto4portionsandflatteneachoneoutintoasquareshapethatwillfitinsideapheasantbreastPlacethebutteronsomegreaseproofpaperandfreezefor1hour

ButterflythepheasantbreastsTodothislayeachoneonaboardandusingaverysharpknifecutintothebreastparalleltothechoppingboarduntilyoureach1cmfromtheotheredgeEssentiallyyouareenablingthebreasttoopenupcompletelywhilethe2sidesstayconnectedbyalsquohingersquoOnceeachbreasthasbeenopenedupplaceaportionofthebutterinthecentrealongwithaquarterofthestrawberrymyrtleBrusharoundtheedgesofbothsidesofthebreastwithalittleofthebeateneggthencloseitencasingthebutterandherbs

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6Spreadoutthebreadcrumbsinaroastingtrayandbakefor5minutesStirwellthenreturnthemtotheovenandcontinuetobakestirringat2-minuteintervalsuntilthecrumbsarecompletelydryandcrispSetasidetocool

Placetheflourbreadcrumbsandremainingbeateneggin3separatebowlsCoateachbreastinflourthendipitintheeggandcoatwiththebreadcrumbsFinallydipeachbreastbackintotheeggandthencoatwithafinallayerofbreadcrumbsThislsquodouble-diprsquomethodensuresmorecrunchontheexteriorandalsohelpspreventthebutterescaping

PuttheKievsonaroastingtrayplaceintheovenandbakefor14minutesServewiththemashandseasonalgreens

HANGINGPHEASANTS

WhenbuyingpheasantstrytoensurethatyoutakehomeyoungbirdsyoucandothisbycheckingthebeakandclawsOldermeansthickerandharderAbraceofpheasantsisacock(male)andahen(female)Oldstalwartsofgamewouldadvisethatcocksmustbehunglongerthanhensduetotheirmoreactive

lifestyleandlargersizeInpracticeitalldependsonthetemperatureatwhichtheyarehungandontheageofthebirdWewouldadvisebuyingabracethathasalreadybeenhungbyyourbutcherThebasicsciencebehindhangingisthatenzymesinthemeatattackothercellmoleculesandthisinturnreduces

theselargemoleculesintotastiersmallermoretenderpieces(seeMcGeeOnFoodandCookingpage144)

Wintertarragon

Strawberrymyrtle

daggerThestorygoesthatJasonandtheArgonautsbroughtthepheasantbacktoGreece(alongwiththeGoldenFleece)fromtheplacenowthoughttobeGeorgiandashtheLatinnameforpheasantiscochicusaderivativeofthatareaItwasthenbroughttoBritainbytheRomansandappearedinfossilisedformatCorbridgearoundthesiteofHadrianrsquoswallEleventh-CenturyremainsoffeaststhatincludepheasantbonesaboundItwasnotuntiltheeighteenthandnineteenthcenturiesthatnewvarietiesofpheasantwereintroducedfromtheFarEastandChinaThemalesreallyaresplendidtheircoloursareautumnalandseemtomirrorthetreesrsquoseasonaltransformationtogoldsredsandbrownsThesebirdsarenotparticularlycleverandDorothyHartleyhadacunningtechniqueforpoachingthemfromhergardeninsummerlsquoPheasantisfairlycommoninEnglandinSummerwhenthecockinvadesthecottagegardenstosneakthepeasYoucatchhimquietlywithapaperbagandraisinsSmearthepaperconeinsidewithtreacleorgumputafewraisinsatthebottomandpropthe

bagupagainstthepeasWhenhestickshisheadinhecannotseewheretogosohestandstilltillyoufetchhimrsquo(FoodinEnglandpage202)

RareRoastSirloinofBeefwithBordelaiseSauceBlackCabbageandTruffleCauliflower

OneofourfavouritefeaturesattheWalledGardenisthemainseatingareaoftherestaurantwhichwecalltheglasshouseWithitsnear-perfect180-degreeviewoftheSomersethillsitgivesusarealsenseofthechangingcountrysidethroughouttheseasonsFromherewehaveoftenobservedthedifferentweatherpatternsapproachingandnotedtheeffecttheyhaveonthelandscapearoundusMostimportantlyhowevertheviewofthevastvelvetyhillsservesasadailyreminderofourfantasticbeef-farmingheritageintheUKBritainrsquosfertilepasturesproducesomeofthebestbeefintheworldand

BritainrsquosfertilepasturesproducesomeofthebestbeefintheworldandhaveledtothedevelopmentofsomesuperbcattlebreedsAttherestaurantweuseHerefordCrossorCharolaisbeefthathasbeenagedfor28ndash35daysTheadvantagesofageingaretwofoldasthemeathangsmoistureevaporatesfromitwhichmeansagreaterintensityofflavourisachievedatthesametimethetoughconnectivetissuegraduallybreaksdownresultinginmoretendermeatWewouldrecommendseekingoutbeefthathasbeenhungforatleast28daysThiskindofmeatisamagnificenttestamenttoBritishbeeffarmingYet

itsrecenthistoryhasbeentroubledItsreputationsufferedgreatlyasaconsequenceoftheBSEcrisisinthelatetwentiethcenturyanditwassometimebeforeitscredibilitywasrestoredIronicallyitwasoftensmallfamily-runfarmsthatsufferedfinanciallyasaresultdespitethefactthatsuchfarmersrsquoclosedherdsoftraditionalgrass-fedbeefbreedsweretheonesthatweremostlikelytobefreeofthediseaseOncethisfactbecamewidelyknownitledtothepromotionofsmall-scalebeeffarmingwhichproducedbeefofhighqualityOursearchforabutcherwhosharedourcommitmenttosustainablefood

productionledustoThornburyfarmersrsquomarketandScottPowellfromPowellsofOlvestonndashabutcherwhostoodbeforeabannerproudlyproclaimingethicallysourcedmeatsScotthadclearlygonetogreatlengthstofindhissuppliersforbeeflambporkchickenandduckallofwhomhavehighstandardsofanimalhusbandryandexceptionallywellcared-forlivestockTocookthesirloinaccuratelyithelpstohaveadigitalprobendashamodest

investmentthatwillhaveagreatimpactonyourcookingFamiliariseyourselfwiththeguidetoroastingbeefonherebeforeyoustartthisrecipeThebeefwilltakeabout4hoursfromleavingthefridgetoservingDonrsquotworryifitisreadybeforethesidedishesndashbetterthatitiswellrestedthanrushedtothetableItcanbeheldinaverylowovenalongsidewarmingplatesafterbastingforaslongasrequiredThisrelaxedapproachmarksoutSundayasanidealtimetocatchupandmullovertheweekwithfamilyandfriends

SERVES8

2kgbeefsirloinpreferablyagedfor28ndash35days3tbspmustardpowder

plainflourfordusting3tbsprapeseedoil400gblackcabbage(cavolonero)kaleorscarletborecolestalksremovedcutinto2cmstrips

1tbspcidervinegaradoublequantityofBordelaiseSauce(seehere)ValorPotatoMash(seehere)toserveflakyseasalt

FORTHETRUFFLECAULIFLOWER

1cauliflower1tspsmokedsalt4tbspdoublecreamtruffleoilpreferablyEnglish(seehere)totaste

Takethesirloinoutofthefridge2hoursbeforecookingtobringittoroomtemperatureRemoveanystringandcoveritwithateatowel

Dividethecauliflowerinto25cmfloretsandslicethestemPlaceinasteamerbasketandsteamoveralowheatfor35minutesuntilverysoftTransferthecauliflowertoablenderorfoodprocessorwiththesmokedsaltandblitzacoupleoftimesThenwiththemachinerunningpourinaslowdrizzleofdoublecreamuntilitbeginstocombineOnceitstartstomovearoundtheblenderaddalightsplashoftruffleoilndashsomewhereintheregionof1ndash2teaspoonsTastethemixtureanddecideifyouwantmoresaltortruffleoilScrapedownthesidestocatchanyremainingunblendedpiecesandblendoncemoreIfyouwantaverysmoothfinishpassthemixturethroughafinesieveSetaside

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6Getalargeheavy-basedfryingpanveryhotItrsquosimportantthatthebeefbrownsquicklysomakesurethepanispracticallyhummingDustthesirloinonallsideswiththemustardpowderthenwithflourrubbingitintomaketheoutsidedry(donrsquotaddanysaltatthisstage)LiftthejointupandgiveitafewpercussiveslapstoknockoffanyexcessflourCarefullyadd2tablespoonsoftherapeseedoiltothehotpanandusingacarvingforkgentlylowerthebeefintoitItwillcolour

quicklyoverthisheatsoturnitregularlyuntilbrownedonallsidesTransfertoaroastingtrayandplaceintheovenDecidetowhatdegreeyouwouldlikethemeatcooked(seetheboxonhererememberingthatthetemperaturesshownaretheonesthemeatshouldreachafterresting)Roastfor25minutesthentakethejointoutforitsfirsttemperaturetestInsertadigitalprobeintothesideyouwouldcarvefromatwhicheverendisthickestasclosetothecentreofthecrosssectionaspossibleandcheckthetemperatureProbeatacouplemorepointstheaimbeingtofindthelowesttemperaturereadinginthejointThetemperatureislikelytomeasureinthemidtwentiesinwhichcaseitcangobackintheovenfor10minutesbeforetestingagainAsitnearsyourchosentemperaturereturnittotheovenprobingat5-minuteintervalsuntilthecorrecttemperatureisreachedWecookourbeeftoaninnercoretemperatureof37degCandwhenitisoutoftheovenwewatchthecarry-overeffectonthethermometerasitclimbsto50degCPerfectlyrareRestingfor30minutesisessentialtofinishingthebeefproperlyStraightafteritcomesoutoftheoventhefibreswillcontractandjuiceswillleavethemeatThenastheystopcontractingitwillreabsorbthejuicesThiswindowprovidesagreatopportunitytoseasonApplyuptoatablespoonofflakyseasaltliberallytothejointOverthenext10ndash30minutesregularlybastethemeatbyspooningthejuicesbackoveritThesaltwilldissolvefromthesurfaceandthepanjuiceswillberenderedtoosaltyforuseelsewherebutasthebeefabsorbssomeofthissaltitwillbeseasonedtoperfectionAfterthesirloinhasbeenbastedandresteditcanbereturnedtoanovensetat50degCwhereitwilllsquoholdrsquoperfectlytillyouarereadytocarveitndashatechniqueusedinmanyprofessionalkitchens

Heattheremainingrapeseedoilinapanaddthecabbageandcookoveramediumheatfor30ndash45secondsAddthecidervinegarletitsteamoffintheheatofthepanthenseasonwithsaltandtransfertoawarmservingdish

Reheatthecauliflowerpureacuteecarvethebeefandservewiththebordelaisesaucemashandcabbage

AGEINGBEEF

Whenabeeforbuffalocarcassisagedthemeataswholejointsisheldbetween1and3degCEnzymesinmusclebreakproteins

intosavouryaminoacidsandthisiswhereflavourdevelopsfrom(seeHaroldMcGeeOnFoodandCooking)Thisprocesswonrsquotbenoticeableuntilafter20daysandcontinuesforafurther15daysFurtheractionoffungalmicrobesontheexteriorcomplementsthisprocessTheydonrsquotcausespoilageinthetruesenseandin

anycasethemeatistrimmedofitscrustasamatterofcoursebythebutcherattheendofthematuringAsupermarketwouldmostlikelycutandpackagemeatafteronlyfourdaysofstoringinoxygen-lessconditionsThesupermarketbenefitsfromhaving

nolossinweightthatadry-ageingprocesswouldeffectSearchoutanindependentproducerofBritishgrass-fedbeefatafarmersrsquomarkettalktohimorherandaskaboutthisprocess

UponknowingalittlemoreabouttheirartisanskillsandprideintheirproductyouaremuchmorelikelytocomeawaywithameltinglytenderandflavoursomecutofmeatAsBritainistheonlycountryintheworldtobananimalderivativesinfeedthebeefisnowthesafesttheworldoversomethingtosupportandtrulygetbehindOnceyouhaveboughtthebestpossiblepiece

ofmeatthekitchenprocessissimpletosaytheleast

ROASTINGBEEF

RoastingbeeftoperfectionrequiresanaccuratethermometerTherearemanyotherwaysofjudgingwhenthebeefisatthecorrectstageoflsquodonenessrsquobutathermometerisundoubtedlythemosteffectivewaytoachievethesameresulteverytimeOvensoperateatdifferenttemperatureswiththeirownuniquecoldspotsandhotspotsHavingacorrectlycalibratedthermometertomeasuretheinternaltemperatureofthemeatnegatesalltheguessworkForourrareroastsirloinwhichweservemostSundaysinthe

restaurantthecutisroastedtoaninternaltemperaturematching

restaurantthecutisroastedtoaninternaltemperaturematchingthatofourbodiesThemeatisthentakenoutoftheovenandallowedtorestforaminimumof30minutesbeforeitisservedMeatissubjecttoaphenomenonknownaslsquocarry-overcookingrsquoEssentiallythismeansthatevenafterthemeathasbeenremovedfromtheoventheinternaltemperaturewillcontinuetoriseagoodfewdegreesThethickerthepieceofmeatthemoreheatitwillretainandthehigheritwillclimbSirloinandotherlargecutsusuallyclimbaround10ndash13degCThechartbelowshowsthetemperaturethemeatshouldreachafterresting

Whencookingsteaksremovethemfromtheheatwhentheyareroughly5degCbelowthetemperatureyouwanttoreachforribsofbeef5ndash10degCWewouldneverrecommendtakingbeefabove60degCasitbecomesalmostasmuchofatasktoeatascoldMidgetGemsAndalotlessenjoyabletoo

AlmondPearCardamomandChocolateCake

WehaveusedmanyfruitsinthedevelopmentofthisdessertandalthoughitworkswellallyearroundwecansafelysaythatitisbestwithpearsespeciallyifyoucangetthemwhentheyareperfectlyripePearstendtobelessacidicthanapplesandwefindtheireleganthoneyedfragrancehardtoresistItwasinspiredbytheclassiccombinationofpearandalmondexemplified

inthetraditionalfrangipanendashasumptuouspastemadefromground

inthetraditionalfrangipanendashasumptuouspastemadefromgroundalmondsItevolvedintoacosmopolitanWestCountryaffairwhenwewereaskedtodesigncakestosuitthemenuoftheThaliCafeacuteanindependentIndianchainbasedinBristolTheadditionoffloral-scentedcardamomseemedinevitableThecakewastheperfectmatchforallthosewonderfulspicesusedinIndiancookingIthasnowbecomeoneofthemostpopularitemsatTheEthicureanwhethersoldfromthecakecounterorservedasawarmdessertAboveallthiscakehaswonadevotedfollowingbecausewekeepitglutenfreeGluten-freecakesaresometimesmalignedforbeingdryandcrumblybutthisofferingtrouncesthatpreconceptionWeencourageyoutotryitwarmwithadecentamountofcreamThechocolatewillmeltwithinandthefrangipanewillbetransformedintoadevastatinglymoistensemble

315gsaltedbutteratroomtemperature315gcastersugarplusalittleextrafordusting5eggslightlybeaten315ggroundalmonds50ggluten-freeplainflour(orordinaryplainflour)1tbspgroundcardamom1ripepear70gdarkchocolate(weuseOriginalBeansCruVirungachocolatebutanygood70percentcocoasolidchocolatewillwork)

Heattheovento160degCGasMark3Linethebaseandsidesofa23cmspringformcaketinwithnon-stickbakingpaper

Usingafreestandingelectricmixerfittedwiththepaddleattachmentbeatthebutterandsugartogetherfor10ndash15minutesuntilpaleandincreasedinvolumeGraduallypourinthebeateneggswhilethemixercontinuestoturnAddallthedryingredientsandmixonslowuntiljustcombinedRemovethebowlfromthemachineandfoldthemixtureafewtimeswithaspatulatoensureitiswellmixedTurnitintothetinlevelthetopslightlythenplaceinthecentreoftheovenandbakefor20minutesInthemeantimethinlyslicethepearremovingthecoreandbreakthechocolateintopiecesRemovethecakecarefullyfromtheovenItwillbeliquidwithonlyatouchofcolourPressthechocolatepiecesverticallyintothemixacrosstheentirecakeLaythepearslicesinapatternofyourchoosingon

acrosstheentirecakeLaythepearslicesinapatternofyourchoosingontopDustthemwithalittlecastersugartoaidcaramelisationandthengentlyreturnthecaketotheovenCookfor40minuteslongerturningthecakearoundhalfwaythroughtoensureitbakesevenlyIfyouhaveadigitalprobeagoodwaytoensurethatthecakeisdonetoperfectionistocheckthetemperatureinthecentreitshouldbe94degCOtherwiseinsertaskewerandcheckthatitcomesoutcleanLeavethecaketocoolforatleast20minutesbeforeserving

daggerThenamefrangipane(astheenlighteningLarousseGastronomiquetellsus)originatesfromasixteenthcenturyperfumerandnoblemantheMarquisMuzioFrangipaniInhisvastrepertoireofperfumeshehadaparticularlymemorableonebasedonbitteralmondswhichwasspecificallyusedforscentingglovesThescentwassopleasantthatitledprominentParisianchefstodesignanalmond-basedpasteintheMarquisrsquosname

daggerItseemsthatourloveforpearswassharedbyRomansandGreeksalikePearswereeatenindiversewaysandevenmadeintoanalcoholicdrinkDuringmedievaltimespearswouldonlybeeatenafterdinnerandtheyweregenerallyroastedoreatenwithsugarfennelseedsoraniseedTheytendedtobeeateninenormousquantitiesattimesofglutswhichinevitablyledtoupsetstomachsandtheincorrectassumptionthattheywereariskyfruittoeatrawThesayinglsquorawpearsapoisonbakedamedicinebersquoencapsulatesthissentimentperfectlyThepracticeofcookingpearswithsugarandspicescontinuedwelluntiltheseventeenthcentury

SeaBuckthornSorbetwithAppleandVanillaPureacuteeToffeeAppleandCaramelLemonBalm

SeabuckthornhasbeenusedforcenturiesinEuropeandAsiabothasfoodandformedicinalpurposesAsitsnamesuggestsitisahardythornybushwhichmightbewhyithasbeenforgottenaboutinrecenttimesharvestingitisnottheeasiestoftasksThisdidnotdetertheAncientGreekswhousedtofeedittotheirhorsestopromoteweightgainandglossycoatsndashhenceitsLatinnameHippophaemeaninglsquoshinyhorsersquoItrsquosdefinitelyworthlookingoutfortheberriesonseasideforagingtripsThedensebushesareeasytospotastheberriesareacheerfulbrightyellow-orangeInlinewithgoodforagingetiquettetrytoresisttheurgetocutthewholespikybranchinordertogaineasieraccesstothefruitItwilldamagetheplantandminimisethechanceofafutureharvestInsteadthinkoftheintrepidGreeksontheirshinyhorsesandarmyourselfwithathickpairofglovesandtoughclothingsoyoucanharvestinpeaceTheberriesoftenstayonthehedgewellintothewinterBewareoftheir

highacidityitcertainlymakesforaninterestinggameofwhocanpullthefunniestfaceasyoueatthemWetemperthistartnessbymakingtheberriesintoasyrupysorbetTheappleandvanillapureacuteesoftenstheirastringencyevenfurtherandprovidesasweetvelvetybasetodipyourminitoffeeapplesintoWecouldnotresistincludingtoffeeapplesTheyaretheepitomeof

autumnconjuringupthoughtsofwoodlandfloorscarpetedingoldenleavesandambersparksaroundabonfireTheseminiatureversionsareamorerefinedtreatthanthetraditionalchildhoodones

SERVES6

FORTHESEABUCKTHORNSORBET

700ndash800gseabuckthornberries250gfructose(fruitsugar)50gglucosepowder

FORTHEAPPLEANDVANILLAPUREacuteE

frac14vanillapod250gdessertapplespeeledcoredandcutintocubes

250gdessertapplespeeledcoredandcutintocubes5tbspcastersugar

FORTHETOFFEEAPPLES

175mlapplejuice100gcastersugar2BlenheimOrangeapples(orBramleyapples)4ndash6lemonbalmleaves(ormintleaves)finelyslicedtodecorateafewshardsofsaltcaramel(seehere)togarnish(optional)

Firstmakethesorbetpasstheseabuckthornberriesthroughajuiceextractorandmeasurethejuiceyouwillneed400mlPutthefructoseandglucoseinasaucepanadd330mlwaterandbringtoagentlesimmerLeavetocoolandthenstirintheseabuckthornjuicePassthroughafinesieveandleaveinthefridgeforatleast2hoursThisallowstheproteinsinthemixturetohydratefullywhichimprovesthewhippingqualitiesofthesorbetandmakesitsmootherFreezeinanice-creammachineaccordingtothemanufacturerrsquosinstructionsWhenthemixtureisalmostfrozenblitzwithastickblenderfor15ndash30secondsthenreturntothemachineandcontinuetochurnDecantintoanairtightcontainerandfreezeforatleast2hoursbeforeserving

FortheappleandvanillapureacuteeslitopenthevanillapodandscrapeouttheseedsPuttheseedsandpodinasaucepanwiththeapplessugarand50mlwaterandplaceoveramediumheatBringtoasimmerandcookfor30minutesstirringoftenTransfertoablenderremovingthevanillapodandblitztoapureacuteePassthroughafinesieveandsetasideAllowtocoolandthenchill

TomakethetoffeeapplespourtheapplejuiceintoasaucepanandbringtoagentlesimmerRemovefromtheheatandkeepwarmUsethesugartomakeacaramelfollowingtheinstructionsforSaltCaramelonherebutomittingthesaltLetitreachadeepevengoldcolourtheninsteadoftippingitontoasiliconematremovefromtheheatandslowlyaddtheapplejuiceBecarefulasthecaramelwillbubblerapidlywhenthejuiceispouredinOnceallthejuicehasbeenaddedthecaramelwillprobablysolidifyPlaceoveralowheatandcookstirringuntilithasmeltedintothe

applejuiceSimmeruntilithasreducedtoaloosesyrupyconsistencyRemovefromtheheatandleavetocool

Usingamelonballerscoopout18ndash24ballsofapplekeepingtheskinonPuttheballsinasaucepanjustlargeenoughtoholdtheminasinglelayerthenaddenoughofthecaramelapplesyruptoreachhalfwayupthemPlaceonahighheatandcookturningtheappleballsregularlyuntilthesyruphasthickenedenoughtocoatthemRemovefromtheheatandsetasideinawarmplaceuntilneeded

ToservespoonsomeapplepureacuteeontoeachplatethenaddthetoffeeappleballsdressedwithalittleextrasyrupDecoratewiththelemonbalmandsaltcaramelshards(ifusing)andplaceascoopofsorbetoneachplate

BeetrootAppleandCobnutCrumblewithRoastedWhiteChocolateSpoom

GiventhatwehavesomanyapplevarietiesintheWalledGardenwecouldnotresistcreatingaversionoftheubiquitouscrumbleItisafterallthequintessentialBritishpuddingandonethatcanbeenhancedgreatlybythechoiceofingredientsusedItsbeautyliesnotonlyinitssimplicitybutalsoinitsversatilitySurprisinglycrumblesdidnrsquotbecomepopularuntiltheSecondWorldWarwhentheywereawayofekingoutsugarflourandbutterrationstomakeapuddingUsingbeetrootmightseemslightlyriskybutwehaveoptedforthesweetwhite-fleshedAlbinaIcebeetrootwhichgivesasubtlecolourpaletteIfyoucangetRibstonPippinapplestheyoffertheperfectcombinationofpearmaltandpeachflavoursandalsohaveasubtlechestnut-likeflavourthatcomplementsthecobnutsWeopttoturntheappleandbeetrootoutontoacrispseparatelybakedcrumbleandhaveborrowedthetarteTatinideaofmakingacarameltotopthedishSoinessencethisisanupside-downcrumbleTheadditionofanuttyelementisoptionalbutyouwillfindthatitimprovesthetextureofthetoppingbymakingitcrunchierndashthehallmarkofagoodcrumbleinourviewItisofcoursepossibletosubstitutehazelnutsforthecobnutsbutwewouldurgeyoutoheadoutdoorsandfindyournearestcobnuttreeThisissuchagreatnativenutwithanamazinghistory(seehere)

SERVES6ndash8

350gAlbinaIcebeetroot(orsubstitutegoldenbeetrootChioggiaorredvarietiesforaverydifferentcolourfinish)

500gRibstonPippinapples(orCoxrsquosOrangePippins)RoastedWhiteChocolateSpoom(seehere)toserve

FORTHECRUMBLE

100gcobnuts260gplainflour165gdemerarasugar165gunsaltedbutteratroomtemperaturecutintocubesfrac12tspgroundcinnamon

FORTHEVANILLAANDCIDERBRANDYCARAMEL

125gcastersugar100mlagedciderbrandy1vanillapod50gunsaltedbutteratroomtemperaturecutintosmallcubes

FirstmakethecrumbleHeattheovento180degCGasMark4PutthenutsinafoodprocessorandblitzforasecondortwountiltheyarecoarselychoppedSiftintheflouraddthesugarandturnontheprocessoragainSlowlyaddpiecesofbutterthroughthefoodtubeuntilthemixtureresemblesbreadcrumbs(Youcandothisallbyhandifyoupreferrubbingthebutterintothedryingredientswithyourfingertips)Scatterthemixtureintoa24cmnon-stickovenprooffryingpanwithoutpressingitdownBakefor25minutesoruntilgoldenbrownandcrispCookingthecrumbleseparatelylikethismeansitretainsitscrunchagainstthemoistappleRemovefromtheovenandcoolslightlythenturnitoutontoaservingplatebyplacingtheplateoverthepanandcarefullyflippingthembothoverHopefullyitwillcomeoutcleanandunbrokenSetasideforlaterCleanoutthepannowreadyformakingthecarameltop

WashthebeetrootwelltrimmingawaythestemsthenslicethemfinelyfromtoptobottomThiswillbeeasierwithamandolinethoughentirelypossiblewithacalmsteadyhandandasharpknifeCoretheapplesandslicefinelyintodiscs

Putthesugarandciderbrandyintothenon-stickfryingpanSlitthevanillapoddownitslengthscrapetheseedsintothepanandaddthepodhalvesaswellSetthepanoveramediumheatandbringtotheboilstirringoccasionallytodissolvethesugarTheliquidmayigniteasthealcoholcooksoffContinuetocookwithoutstirringbutkeepingacloseeyeonituntilitturnsalightcaramelcoloursimilartothatofdemerarasugarAssoonasthisoccursremovethepanfromtheheatLaytheslicesofbeetrootinthecarameltocoverthebaseofthepanthenaddalternatelayersofappleandbeetrootDotthebutteroverthetopandplaceintheovenCheckitafter35minutesitisreadywhenthemoisturehasbeencookedoutandthereisaclearlayerofdeepcaramelcolouraroundtheedgesThiscouldtakeuptoanhourdependingonthemoisturecontentoftheapplesandbeetrootsokeepcheckingat10-minuteintervalsWhenitisreadyremovefromtheoven

checkingat10-minuteintervalsWhenitisreadyremovefromtheovenandleavefor15ndash20minutesuntilthepanhandleiscoolenoughtoholdSlidethecrumbleoffitsplateontotheapplePuttheplatefacedownontothisthenflopthewholethingovertakingcaretoholdtheplatesteadytooTheapplemixtureshouldcomefreefromthepanwithagentleshakegoslowlyandgravityshouldsufficeServewiththeroastedwhitechocolatespoom

daggerTheappleswehavechosenforthisdishareRibstonPippinThemid-seasonapplevarietygaineditsnamefromRibstonHallinYorkshirewhereitisbelievedtohavegrowninthe18thcenturyThiswasanotherpopularvarietyintheVictorianeraandwasbelievedtobeoneoftheparentsofCoxrsquosOrangePippin

daggerBeetrootwasafavouritesweetenerandcolouringagentoftheVictoriansitwasoftenusedinsaladsandsoupsVictorianfoodparticularlyinnoblehouseswasallaboutcreatingthemoststunningtheatricaleffectanditseemsthatthedramaticcolourprovidedbythisrootvegetablewasafavouriteatthedinnertable

Simplesyrupsforsorbetsandspooms

Simplesyrupsforsorbetsandspooms

SugarsyrupsareanessentialpartofmakingsorbetsspoomsandicecreamsForallsorbetandspoomrecipesweuseinthisbookweusea50percentsugarsyrupalsoknownas5050syrupDependingonitsuseweeitherusesucrose(commontablesugar)or

fructose(fruitsugar)(formoreonfructoseseehere)Forfruitypreparationswewillgenerallyalwaysusethe5050fructosesyrupIfyouareeverunsurerefertotherecipethatyouaremaking

5050COMMONSYRUP

500gcastersugar500gwater

5050FRUCTOSESYRUP

500gfructosesugar500gwater

Thismethodappliestobothsyrups

CombinethesugarandwaterinamediumsaucepanPlaceonamedium-highheatandbringtoasimmerStirtoensureallthesugarhasdissolvedbeforepouringintoabowlplacedinanicebathAllowtochilltofridgetemperaturebeforedecantingintoatupperwarecontainerandstoringinthefridgeuntilneeded

YoumayalsocoolthesyrupbypouringitintoaroastingtraywithalargesurfaceareaLiquidswithlargesurfaceareascooldownmuchmorequickly

Spoom

ThenamelsquospoomrsquocomesfromtheItalianwordspumemeaningfoamSpoomresemblesasmoothairysorbetItisaforgottendessertnowadaysbutitusedtobeverypopularinEnglandItwasmadewithalightersyrupthan

anormalsorbetandonewouldmixinItalianmeringueforgoodmeasureItwascommonlysoldinatallglasssothatyoucouldseethelayersandtextureswithinSpoomissuchaversatiledessertthatitisastonishingthatweeverletitgooffourculinaryradarInordertorevivethespoomwehavecomeupwithanautumnalandasummeryoptionReadonandspoomaway

RoastedWhiteChocolateSpoom

SERVES4ndash6

350gwhitechocolate180gglucosesyrup80gItalianMeringue(seehere)

Preheattheovento110degCGasMarkfrac14BreakupthechocolateintoanovenproofdishandplaceintheovenLeavefor10minutesbeforestirringwithaspatulaReturntotheovenstirringevery5minutesuntilthechocolatehastakenonalightndashmediumbrowncolour(likeCaramac)Thisusuallytakes40ndash60minutesDuringthisprocessthechocolatewillgothroughseveralstageshardmeltedchalkyandgrainybeforebecomingcompletelysmoothDonrsquotpanicThisisnormalTakecarewhenremovingitfromtheovenasitrsquosincrediblyhotDecantintoaplasticcontainerandleavetocoolOncecoldandsolidifiedchoproughlyintosmallpiecesandplaceinamixingbowl

Inasaucepancombinetheglucosesyrupwith850gofcoldwaterPlaceoveramediumheatandbringtoaverygentlesimmerPourthesimmeringliquidoverthechoppedchocolateStirforacoupleofminutesbeforeblendingwithastickblender(orpouringintoablender)FoldintheItalianmeringue

Spoonthechocolatemixtureintoaplasticcontainerandrefrigerateforatleast2hours(TherefrigerationprocessallowstheproteinspresentinthespoomtohydratefullyThiswillinturnimproveitswhippingqualitiesallowingmoreairtobeincorporatedandresultinasmootherproduct)Removefromthefridgeandstrainthroughafine-meshsieve

Twentyminutesbeforeyouarereadytochurnswitchonyourice-cream

Twentyminutesbeforeyouarereadytochurnswitchonyourice-creammachineAddthespoomtotheice-creammachineWhenthemachinebeginstolabourremovethebowlandblitzthemixturewithastickblender(orspoonintoablender)for15ndash30secondsReturnthemixturetotheice-creammachineandchurnforafurther2ndash3minutesDecantintoanairtightliddedplasticcontainerandfreezeforatleast2hoursbeforeserving

CherrySpoom

SERVES4ndash6

500gpittedcherriesstonesreserved(seeNotebelow)150g5050FructoseSyrup(seehere)35gItalianMeringue(seehere)

Placethecherriesinablenderandblitzonfullspeedfor12minutesPassthroughachinoisorfine-meshsieveintoamixingbowltoremoveanyexcesssolids

AddthesyruptothecherriesmixingwellWhiskintheItalianmeringueuntilfullyincorporated

Spoonthecherrymixtureintoaplasticcontainerandrefrigerateforaminimumof2hours(TherefrigerationprocessallowstheproteinspresentinthespoomtohydratefullyThiswillinturnimproveitswhippingqualitiesallowingmoreairtobeincorporatedandresultinasmootherproduct)Removefromthefridgeandstrainthroughafine-meshsieve

Twentyminutesbeforeyouarereadytochurnswitchonyourice-creammachine(itneedstobeverycoldbeforeusesoastoformicecrystalsasquicklyaspossiblemakingforasmootherfinish)Addthespoomtotheice-creammachineWhenthemachinebeginstolabourremovethebowlandblitzthemixturewithastickblender(orspoonintoablender)forabout15ndash30secondsReturnthemixturetotheice-creammachineandchurnforafurther2ndash3minutesDecantintoanairtightliddedplasticcontainerandfreezeforatleast2hoursbeforeserving

NOTEasanoptionalstepforthisrecipewrapthereservedcherrystonesinateatowelandbashthemwitharollingpintocrushthemPlacethecrushedstonesinasaucepanalongwiththefructosesyrupBringthesyruptotheboilandthentakeofftheheatAllowtocooltoroomtemperatureandthenplacein

thefridgeuntilthoroughlycoldStrainthroughachinoisorfine-meshsievetoextractthestonesbeforecontinuingwiththesamemethodasaboveThiswilladdanextracomplexitytothespooncontributinganever-so-slightlybitteralmondtasteDelightful

ItalianMeringue

ItalianmeringuesareathingofbeautyTheirthickunctuoustextureisenoughtomakeagrownmanregresstoachildlikestatescrapingeverylasttinymorseloutofthebowlandhungrilylickingthespoonAmeringueisatypeoffoammadefromwhiskingeggwhitesandthen

addingsugarItistheeggwhitesthatcreatethefoamasthewhiteiswhiskedtheproteinswhichareinatangledformintheirnaturalstatebegintounravelintostrandsThesestrandstheninteractwithoneanotherandasairisincorporatedthroughwhiskingtheywraparoundtheairbubblesandtrapitandthusafoamiscreatedThemeringuemostofusmakeathomeisanuncookedmeringueThesearenotconsideredsafetoeatintheirrawstatesimplybecausetemperaturehasnotbeenappliedtokillanybacteriapresentUsuallythesemeringuesareputintotheoventocrispupandformpavlovasorgivetherisetosouffleacutesIfleftuncookedarawmeringuewilleventuallydeflateastheraworlsquosoftrsquoproteinsintheeggarenolongerabletoretaintheairbubblesItalianmeringuesdifferfromthecommonmeringuebecauseastheeggs

arewhiskedtothecorrectconsistencyboilingsugarispouredinThisboilingsugarcookstheeggwhiterenderingitsafetoeatbutinterestingly

asthehotsugarcookstheeggwhitesthelsquosoftrsquoproteinscoagulatetrappingairalmostinstantlyCoagulatedproteinsaresetandareabletoholdontotrappedairmuchmoreeffectivelythanrawproteinsThesearetwogoodreasonsweuseItalianmeringueitispasteurisedandfarmorestablethananyothermeringueItalianmeringuecanbeusedtomakecrispmeringuesandawholehostofotherdessertsWeuseitforcreatingourspooms(seehere)Italianmeringuesarethemorecomplicatedtomakebutdonrsquotletthisput

youoffWithalittlepracticeyouwillhoneamethodthatworksforyouandyourequipmentandyouwillbeabletomakeaperfectmeringueeverytime

320gcastersugar150geggwhites

Placethesugarand100gofcoldwaterinasmallsaucepanPlaceonamediumheatandbringtotheboilAsthesyrupbeginstoboilincreasetheheattomedium-highIfyouhaveajamthermometerthenplaceitinthesyrupIfyouhaveaninstareadthermometerthenperiodicallycheckthetemperaturendashyouneedittoreach110degC(seebelow)beforeyoutacklethenextstepHaveasmallbowlofwaterandasiliconepastrybrushatthereadyAsthesugarbeginstoboilareaswillmostlikelycrystallisearoundtheedgeofthepanBrushtheseawaywiththewetpastrybrushtopreventtheentiresyrupfromcrystallisingDonotstirthesyrup

AddtheeggwhitestoameticulouslycleanmixingbowlMakesurethesugarhasreached110degCbeforeyoustarttowhisktheeggwhites(seeboxopposite)WhisktheeggwhitesuntiltheyformstiffpeaksWhenthesugarreaches121degCandthewhitesareatthestiffpeakstageslowlypourinthesugarsyrupinathinsteadystreamdowntheedgeofthemixingbowlwhilewhiskingatfullspeedOnceallthesyrupisaddedcontinuetowhiskuntilthemeringuereturnstoroomtemperatureThisshouldtakeabout15ndash20minutesTimespentonthisismostdefinitelyworthitsobepatient(AgreatwayofentertainingyourselfthroughtasksthatrequirecontinuousattentionistotakenoteofthecharacteristicsofthecontentsofthepanormixingbowlObservinghowtheyflowtheirshinetextureorsmellHowtheyslowlychangevicositycolourandaromaNoticinglittlethingslike

thatmaysoundalittleoddbutwhenyoulookcloselyyoursquollseehowfascinatingitcanbe)

Ifyouwanttomakeindividualmeringuespreheattheovento60degC(orthelowestpossiblegassetting)LineabakingsheetwithgreaseproofpaperPlacegeneroustablespoonsofthemeringuemixtureabout5cmapartonthebakingsheetCookintheovenfor3ndash5hoursuntiltheoutsideofthemeringueformsafairlythicksoftskinAtthispointswitchofftheovenandleavetocoolforacoupleofhours

Ifmakingthemeringueforthespoomrecipesonherethenwewouldrecommendeithermakingahalfbatchorensuringthatyoutrybothrecipesthenfreezethem

DIFFICULTYOFTIMING

ThisisthedifficultstageofmakingItalianmeringuegettingthetimingrightYouwanttheeggstobeatthestiffpeakstageasthesugarhits121degCIfyouhaveanelectrichandwhiskthenstartingtowhisktheeggwhitesat105degCwillprobablybeaboutrightIfyouhaveaKitchenaiditwillwhiskthewhitesfarquickerthanahandwhisksostartitafewdegreeslater(try108ndash110degC)ThereareafewthingsyoucandotocontrolthemixturehavinganicebathreadyisausefultipIfthesugarreaches121degCbeforetheeggwhitesareatstiffpeakstagethendropthebaseofthesugarpanintotheicebathThiswillstopthesugarfromcontinuingtocookandthesugarwillremainliquidforyoutopourintotheeggwhitesatthecorrectstageWithallthingsinthekitchennothingbeatsabitofrepetitionandpracticeFromrepeatingthesamerecipesyoulearnthesubtlenuancesofeachingredientandhowitrespondstowhatyoudotoitItwillquicklybecomesecondnature

THECHEESEBOARD

ThereisnodoubtthatBritishartisancheesemakingisundergoingarevivalAspartofadesiretoreconnectwiththephysicalprocessofmakingfoodwewanttotraceourcheesesfromsourcetotableTherichhistoryofBritishcheesealongwiththeintricatespecificsofourregionalrecipesissomethingtoberediscoveredanddevelopedThetechniquesemployedbyartisancheesemakerstodayareforthelargepartthesameasthoseusedsincetimeimmemorialHavingdistinctivestylesofcheesesthroughoutthecountryisbrillianttastelessuniformityisnotAcheesemakershouldhaveadirectlinkwithhisorhermilksupplyInthe

pasttheherdandthedairywouldhavebeenonthesamefarmndashandinsomecasestheystillareThequalityoftheproductisdueinparttothecommunicationbetweenthecheesemakerandthepersonwholooksaftertheherdRegionalorterritorialcheesesarespecifictothelandscapeinwhichtheyaremadeandthegeographicalpositionwilldeterminethecharacterofthepastureonwhichtheanimalsfeedWehavebeenluckyenoughtohostCheeseSchoolatTheEthicurean

OrganisedbyJessTrethowanandFionaBeckettittakesplaceinatentwithwonkytableshurricanelanternsandenoughexpertstosinkabattleshipTherearetalksbycheesemakersbrewersbakersanddrinksexpertsandwefounditaninvaluablewayoflearninghowandwhycertaincheesesworkwithparticularflavoursanddrinksItalsohelpedusunderstandhowthecheesemakingprocessisaffectedbytheseasonsandthedietoftheherdAcelebrationofthedistinctivecharacterofBritishcheesemakingitisachancetoshareanecdotesandknowledgeThewordartisansometimescomesunderfireforitsassociationwith

premiumorhigher-endbutthecostofartisanfoodsisindicativeofthetimeeffortresearchandpassionthatgointocreatingthebestpossibleproductEnsuringthatnotonepersoninthechainoffinancialexchangeslosesoutistheresponsibilityofanybusinessownerAbusinessthatcangrowmakeorbrewagoodproductandturnaprofitwithoutexploitinganotherpersoncontributestoourlocaleconomyinthebestpossiblewayThemoreweinteractwiththepeoplewhoproduceourfoodandwiththelandfromwhichitcomesthemorewecanenjoytheculturalhistoryofourlocalarea

AtTheEthicureanweenjoychoosingtherightpairingforcheeseintheformofpreservesandotheraccompanimentsOurstaplesareHawthornJelly(seehere)quincecheese(knowntotheSpanishasmembrillo)celerysaltpicklesandDarkPlumChutney(seehere)WhenthefigtreedecidestofruitwewilloftenservethefigsalongsidefreshcurdcheesesDuringtheautumnourfavouriteappletoeatwithcheeseisAshmeadrsquosKernelacidicandsweetlikeapeardropOppositearethreeofourfavouritepairingsThekeyistomakesurethe

cheeseisnotoverpoweredbyitsaccompanimentandviceversaWefindpickingoutsingleflavoursinthefoodanddrinkthataresimilarcanleadtoaharmoniousmatchFinallybearinmindthatsaltyfoodscanbenefitfrombeingpairedwithanaccompanimentthatissweetinsomeway

daggerInFoodinEnglandDorothyHartleyemotionallyrecallsthereasonsforthedeclineofBritishcheesebeforetherevivalofthelatetwentiethcenturyItappearsthatmotorisedtransportheraldedtheendoflocalisedcheesemakingasmilkwasthendeliveredtolarge-scalefactoriesFollowingfoodrationinginboththeFirstandSecondWorldWarsthegovernmentonlyallowedhardcheesetobemadeinordertoconserveresourcesndashcheeserationingcontinueduntil1954ThishadaprofoundeffectonBritishcheeseandaccountsfortheubiquityofflavourlessvacuum-packedblocksofvaryingcolourIn1989theMinistryofAgriculturewereonthevergeofbanningtheuseofrawmilkincheesemakingluckilytheywerenotsuccessfulItislittlewonderthatithastakenuntilnowforourartisancheesemakerstobuildmomentumandtheyarecertainlygainingpace

MARMALADEVODKAWITHDORSETBLUEVINNYANDCELERYSALT

ChaseDistillerymakesamarmaladevodkaThisorange-huedtippleismadebymarinatingtheirownsingle-estatevodkadistilledinHerefordwithSevilleorangemarmaladeThevodkaissweetwiththeunmistakablearomaoforangescontrastingwellwiththesaltinessofthecheeseDorsetBlueVinnycopeswiththehighalcoholinthisdrinkinmuchthesamewayasthetraditionalportandStiltoncombinationCeleryandbluecheesearedestinedtobetogetheralittlemoresaltneverdidanyharm

OLDDEMDIKEWITHMEMBRILLOANDPOTHOLERGOLDENALE

ThisisaSomersetversionofManchegoandmembrilloandacompromiseitcertainlyisnotAthinsliverofquincecheesewithsomeofHomewoodCheesesrsquoOldDemdikeisanepiphanyAdelightfuldrinkmatchisanalecalledPotHolerbrewedbyCheddarAlesItisalivelybrewagoldenalethatlikeOldDemdikehasacitrusfruitflavourCheddarAleshavehoppedthisbeerwithablendofEnglishwholehopsThisisaverypleasantmatchindeed

KEENrsquoSCHEDDARWITHSMOKEDCARDAMOMPICKLEDCARROTANDJJJCIDER(JANETrsquoSJUNGLEJUICE)

Wepickledicedrawcarrotincidervinegarcorianderandblackcardamom(seehere)TheaciditycutsrightthroughthisstrongcheeseChooseamedium-drycidersuchasJanetrsquosJungleJuicemadebyWestCroftCidersoitwillbalancetheinherentsalty-sweetnatureofthisunpasteurisedCheddarTheapplearomainboththedrinkandthecidervinegarinthepicklemakeforaclassicpairing

WewouldlovetolistallofthegreatcheesemakersoftheUKHerearejustafewofourfavourites

KEENrsquoSCHEDDAR

UnpasteurisedcowrsquosmilkwithtraditionalanimalrennetMadebytheKeenfamilyonMoorhayesFarmnearWincantonusingatraditionalpintstarterwithyoghurt-likeculturesThecheeseisboundinclothandmaturedforaminimumof10monthssometimesupto18monthsSmoothwithafirmtextureithasalong-lastingflavourthatisacombinationofnutsacidityandearth

OGLESHIELD

UnpasteurisedJerseycowrsquosmilkwithtraditionalanimalrennetMadeinNorthCadburySomersetbyJamieMontgomeryandWayneMitchellAfterbeingrindwashedthecheeseformsastickyorange-colouredrindThetasteissimilartoaracletteanditcooksverywell

DORSETBLUEVINNY

UnpasteurisedcowrsquosmilkwithvegetarianrennetMadeonWoodbridgeFarminDorsetbyMikeDaviesHeuseslsquoleftoverrsquomilkafterthecreamhasbeenskimmedoffforbutter-makingThecheesesarematuredfor3ndash5monthsandhaveasubtleflavourwithacrumblycreamytexture

GORWYDDCAERPHILLY

UnpasteurisedcowrsquosmilkwithtraditionalanimalrennetMadeonGorwyddFarmatLlanddewiBrefiCeredigionbyToddMauganandKimTrethowanThecurdisworkedbyhandandanaturalmouldrindencouragedtodevelopThecheeseiskepttruetotheoriginsoftraditionalCaerphillyasimplefarmhousecheeseeatenyoungorafteralittlematurationIthasaspringycitriclacticcentreoozymushroomycreamundertherindandamustyearthinessintherinditself

SINGLEGLOUCESTER

UnpasteurisedcowrsquosmilkwithvegetarianrennetMadeonStandishParkFarminOxlynchGloucestershirebyJonathanCrumpInthedayswhenallfarmhousesmadecheesethecreamwouldbeskimmedofftheeveningrsquosmilktomakebutterandtheskimmedmilkthatwasleftwasputwiththefollowingmorningrsquosfullmilktomakeSingleGloucestercheeseOurSingleGloucesteristraditionallymaturedandclothbound

KIRKHAMrsquoSLANCASHIRE

UnpasteurisedcowrsquosmilkwithtraditionalanimalrennetMadeonLowerBeesleyFarmnearGoosnarghLancashirebyGrahamKirkhamCurdiscombinedfromthreedaysofcheesemakingndashatechniquethatharksbacktothetraditionofnothavingalargeherdmeaningthecheesemakerwouldneedtoconsolidateafewdaysrsquomilkingVerylittlestarterisusedallowingtheaciditytoriseslowlyGrahamrsquosfathermilksthecowsandtheycandiscusstheherdrsquosdietinthefarmhousekitchenTheentirecheeseissmotheredinbutterratherthanwaxallowingsomeairtopenetrateTheflavourislemonywithamildacidityGrahamdescribesitashavingalsquobutterycrumblersquo

OLDDEMDIKE

UnpasteurisedorganicewersquosmilkwithvegetarianrennetMadebyTimHomewoodandAngelaMorrisinMellsSomersetwithmilkfromShaftesburySimilartoayoungManchegothetasteiscleanandlemony

WIGMORE

UnpasteurisedewersquosmilkwithvegetablerennetMadeinRiseleyBerkshirebyAnneandAndyWigmoreattheendoftheirgardenThisisawashedcurdcheesemeaningaquantityofwheyisremovedduringthemakeandreplacedwithwaterndashatechniquethatreducestheacidityIthasagentleflavourwithatouchofcaramelthetextureissmoothandliabletoformawonderfulgooatroomtemperature

LITTLERYDING

UnpasteurisedewersquosmilkwithvegetarianrennetMadebyJamesandDavidBartlettontheirfamilyfarminNorthWoottonSomersetMouldripenedithasarichcreamytastewithagoodsaltiness

PERROCHE

UnpasteurisedgoatrsquosmilkwithtraditionalanimalrennetMadeatNealrsquosYardCreamerynearDorstoneHerefordshirebyCharlieWesthead(knownaffectionatelytousCharlieCheese)andHadynRobertsAfreshcheeseitstillhasalittlelactictasteIthasalemon-likeflavourwithagoodhelpingofgoat

STAWLEY

UnpasteurisedgoatrsquosmilkwithtraditionalanimalrennetMadeinStawleynearWellingtonSomersetbyCarolineAtkinsonfromhand-ladledcurdsCarolinersquoshusbandWilllooksaftertheirherdofgoatsAmixofmorningandeveningmilksthisbeautifulcheesehasasofttextureandslightlyhoneyedflavourWeregularlyhavebillygoatsonourmenuthattheycannotuseonthefarm

TYMSBORO

UnpasteurisedgoatrsquosmilkwithtraditionalanimalrennetMadeonSleightFarmnearTimsburySomersetbyMaryHolbrookHandladledandmadeinflat-toppedpyramid-shapedValencaymouldsAseriouslysmooth-texturedcheesethetasteislemonnutsandtheinevitablegoatiness

texturedcheesethetasteislemonnutsandtheinevitablegoatiness

LordrsquosLovage

JasonMitchellmakesAshridgeSparklingCideronBarkingdonFarmnearTotnesinDevonwithapplesfromhisunsprayedorchardsHeusesthemeacutethodechampeacutenoisewhichconsistsofatwo-stagefermentFirsttheciderisfermentedusingwildyeaststhenaftersixmonthsitismixedwithchampagneyeastandcanesugarandtransferredtochampagnebottleswhereitundergoesasecondaryfermentationThebottlesarestoredataconsistentlylowtemperatureforayearThisresultsinciderwithveryfinebubblesmuchlikechampagneMixingJasonrsquosciderwithourlovagesyrupwasanextremelygoodidea

HarvestingthesepreciousseedsisapleasureandfindingmoreandmorerecipesforthemisevenbetterThelovagesyrupdespiteitssweetnessaddsa

savourybackgroundnote

SERVES1

125mlAshridgeSparklingCider

FORTHELOVAGESYRUP

1tbsplovageseeds(or1tbspchoppedlovageleaves)150mlcastersugar

Tomakethelovagesyrupplacethelovageandsugarinapanwith150mlwaterandheatgentlystirringtodissolvethesugarBringtoasimmerthenremovefromtheheatandleavetocoolThesyrupwillkeepinthefridgeforupto2weeks

Tomadethedrinksimplypour25mlofthelovagesyrupintoachampagnefluteandtopupwiththecider

daggerLeavingtheciderontheyeastsediment(lees)givesthedrinkitscharacteristictoast-likeflavourThissedimentisremovedbyinvertingthebottlesusingapupitreoveramonthFinallythetopinchofthebotttlecontainingthesedimentisfrozenandremovedandamixtureofciderandsugarisaddedtoreplaceitThereisevidencetosuggestthatthismethodofsecondaryfermentationsoprecioustochampagneproducersbeganwithciderduringtheseventeenthcenturyinEnglandIthasbeenassociatedwithtwoindividualsLordScudamoreandJamesMerretandveryfinegentlemantheyweretoo

AppleFlip

JackdranksomethingsimilartothisattheHindsHeadrestaurantinBrayandwhenhearrivedbackatBarleyWoodheputtogetherthisversionTheflipisarefineddescendentoftheeggdrinksthatwereastapleinAmericaupuntilthemiddleofthenineteenthcenturyEarlyflipswereamixtureofbeerrumeggandsugarpouredfromcontainertocontainertoaeratethemAred-hotpokerwouldthenbeplungedintotheflipcausingittofrothand

red-hotpokerwouldthenbeplungedintotheflipcausingittofrothandaddingaburntcaramelflavourWehavenottriedthisyetbutitbecomesincreasinglytemptingafterafewflipsInEnglandthisstyleofdrinkneverachievedthepopularitythatithadincolonialAmericaalthoughtheegg-baseddrinksofChristmasareareminderoftheseoldstylesWeparticularlyliketheapplejuiceandbrandyblendsmadebyJulian

TemperleyofTheSomersetCiderBrandyCompanyAswellassomeexcellentvintagesofbrandyandciderhehascreatedtwodrinksKingstonBlackandPomonaKingstonBlackisslightlysweeterandissimilarinmanywaystoaPineaudesCharentesorwhiteport

SERVES1

45mlKingstonBlack25ml3-year-oldSomersetCiderBrandy20gcastersugar1free-rangeeggasmallgratingofnutmegalargechunkoficeorenoughicecubestofillacocktailshakerbytwothirds

CombinealltheingredientsexceptthenutmegandiceintheglasspartofaBostonshakerPlacethetinontopandtaptosecureitthenshakevigorouslyBreakaparttheshakerandthenpourthecontentsfromashighupasyoudarebackintothemetalhalfoftheshakerThisaddsevenmoreairtothedrinkDropintheicendashifyouhavealargechunkthiswillchillthedrinkwithoutdilutingittoomuchandwillalsogiveasmoother-texturedflipShakeuntilthesidesoftheshakercondensethenpourtheflipintoaglassusingaHawthornestrainerFinishwithafinegratingofnutmeg

TheOrchardatBarleyWood

BarleyWoodrsquosmainorchardwasthefirstpartoftheWalledGardenwesawwhenwecametolookataprospectiverestaurantwewerethinkingoftakingoverAtfirstsighttheorcharddidnotstandoutasbeingparticularlydifferentfromothersintheareabutafterwehadwalkedaroundwebecamecaptivatedbythehistorybehinditIthadamesmerisingsenseofalivingpastthathadsurvivedthetestoftimendashandcouldcontinuewellintothefutureOurbusinesswasfoundedonthebeliefthatcookingwithlocalseasonalproducewasaprincipleworthstrivingforandhereitwasndashaplacethatperfectlyepitomisedthisidealwiththeorchardatthecentreofitallHavingaccesstotheorchardandthebarnwherethejuicewouldbe

pressedbecameoneofthemostexcitingfacetsofthenewprojectwehadembarkeduponWewouldhavetheopportunitytoplayapartinreignitingthepassionfortheBritishapplendashandwhatbetterproducetoshowcaseour

thepassionfortheBritishapplendashandwhatbetterproducetoshowcaseourbeliefinlocalseasonalproducethantheappleitselfApplesaremostcertainlyseasonalbutalsoextremelyversatileastheykeepwellformanymonthsifyoustorethemproperlyTheygrowwellwithouttheuseofpesticidesorfertilisersastheunsprayedorchardatBarleyWooddemonstratesThereareover70typesofapplegrowingtheremakingitanexcellentlivingmuseumthatfeaturessomeofthebestvarietiesaroundApplesarefascinatingfruitsTheirgeneticmake-upissocomplexthatif

youweretoeatanapplefromaspecifictreeandplantapipfromithopingtoreproducethattreeitishighlyunlikelythatyouwouldendupwiththesamevarietyThisgeneticcharacteristiciswhatledtotheproliferationofvarietiesalthoughnotnecessarilytheonespeoplemostwantedtoeatTheancientprocesscalledgraftingallowedpeopletoreplicatethemostsought-aftervarietiesThissimpleyeteffectivetechniqueconsistsofmakinganincisioninthetree(knownasthestock)andinsertingasegmentofthedesiredtree(calledthescion)ThegraftisthensecuredwithtapeandcoveredwithtartopreventanywaterpenetrationWhatseemstobeafairlyrudimentaryoperationhasworkedremarkablywellforcenturiesThetechniquewasfirstusedbytheChinesebefore2000BCandsubsequentlyinAncientGreeceIntheUKwehavetheVictorianstothankforthemanyvarietiesof

applesthatgrowhereThekeencompetitivespiritofgardenersonVictorianestatessuchasBarleyWoodledthemtoproduceawiderangeoffruitandvegetablessomeofwhicharestillverypopulartodayThereweresomanyapplevarietiesaroundatthattimethatitwouldhavebeenpossibletoeatadifferentappleeachdayforsixyearsCurrentlythereareover2300varietiesofapplespreservedinthe

NationalFruitCollectionatBrogdaleinKentndashalthoughsadly70percentofapplessoldintheUKtodayareimportedApplevarietiesthatkeepwellanddonotbruisewhentransportedhavepushedmanyothertypesoffthemarketOneofouraimsattheWalledGardenistoshowcasethedifferentvarietiesinourcookinginthehopethatthiswillpromotediversityandencouragepeopletoplanttheirfavouritevarietyintheirgardenThesameappliestoourjuicewhichiscarefullyblendedfromtheapplevarietiesthatcomplementeachotherbestNotwobatchesarethesamesincewepresstheapplesastheybecomeripesotheearlierbatcheswilltastedifferentfromtheonesmadepredominantlyfromlate-seasonapplesThejuiceistrulyanartisanproductmadeinamanualwoodenpresssituatedinabarnatthe

artisanproductmadeinamanualwoodenpresssituatedinabarnatthebottomoftheWalledGardenHereisabrieflistofsomeofourfavouritevarietieswhichdeservegreaterrecognition

AshmeadrsquosKernelBlenheimOrangeCheddarCrossMorganSweetOldSomersetRussetJamesGrieveRibstonPippinLaxtonrsquosEpicureTydemanrsquosLateOrangeSummerGoldenPippin

MAKINGAPPLEJUICE

TheapplesarecollectedinseparatetrugsaccordingtotheirvarietythenplacedonametaltableandcleanedthoroughlywithapowerfuljetwashTheyaresubsequentlymovedtoanelectricscratterwhichislikeagiantgraterintheshapeofafunnelThegratedappleisplacedinawoodenframeontopofalsquocheeseclothrsquondasheffectivelyasievethatpreventsanygratedapplepassingthroughndashthenputontopofthewoodenpressTheprocessisrepeateduntilwehavestackedupsevenoreightframesofroughlyonevarietyofappleThismeansitistimetowinddownthepressndashanexhaustingbuthighlyrewardingstageoftheprocessastheblendedapplejuicestartsflowingandyoucanseetheresultofallofyourhardworkMoreimportantlyitisnowtimetodosometastingtoensurethatthejuiceispalatableThisisalsowhenbetsareplacedabouthowmanybottleswewillmakeonthisoccasionWiththehelpofabottlefillerwedecantthejuiceintoglass

bottlesWeliketouseclearglassasitshowsthewonderfulambercolourofthejuiceMostproducersaddascorbicacidtopreventoxidationThisresultsinagreencolourwhichwearetoldistheshadeofapplejuicethepublicisusedtoWedefiantlybelievethatthenaturalambercolourofthejuiceisbeautifulandshouldbecelebratedsoweomittheascorbicacidThebottlesareplacedinapasteurisingunitsetatover70degC

for20minutestoensurethatwecankeepthejuiceforuptoayear

MAKINGAPPLEJUICEATHOME

OnaverysmallscaleathomeyoucanmakeapplejuiceUseajuiceextractorifyouhaveoneorablenderandasieveThisisthesimplestmethodandisconvenientifyouhaveatreeinyourbackgardensoyoucanpickjusttheapplesthatyouneedforthatdayThejuicewillkeepforadayifstoredinthefridgebutwithoutpasteurisationyouwonrsquotbeabletokeepitformuchlongerIfyouareinterestedinlarger-scaleproductionathomeyou

canbuyatablepresswithacapacityofanythingfrom5to40litresDependingonitssizeyoumightneedtocuttheapplesupbeforepressingthemTopasteurisethejuicesimplyplaceitinasaucepanandheatuntilitreachesatemperatureofjustover70degCthenkeepitatthistemperaturefor20minutesYouwillneedtoinvestinagoodthermometertoensurenotonlythatthecorrecttemperatureisreachedbutthatitismaintainedfortherequiredtimeTransfertosterilisedbottlesAlternativelyyoucanpasteurisethejuiceinsterilisedbottles

thatarespecificallydesignedtowithstandtheheatofpasteurisationFillthemwiththejuice(butleavethelidsoff)TakealargedeeppanthatwillholdthebottlesstandinguprightandfillitwithwaterHeatuntilthetemperaturereaches70degCthenaddthebottlesandcheckthetemperatureofthewateragainOnceithasreturnedto70degCleavethebottlesfor20minutesthenremoveandscrewthelidsonThisprocesswillallowyoutokeepthejuiceforuptoayear

daggerWithover70applevarietiesintheorchardsattheWalledGardenittooksometimeuntilwecouldtriumphantlysaythatwehadsampledeachandeveryoneofthemSadlyMorganSweetwasnotavarietythatwechosetosamplefirstItisdreary-lookingandwebecametoosmittenwithAshmeadKernelstospareanytimeforothertypesWegotsuspiciousaboutthesehiddengemswhenanelderlycouplecameintothegardenslookingspecificallyforMorganSweetsThatyearwehadacopiouscropandgladlyletthemhaveabucketfulAfterthecouplersquosthirdvisitwethoughtwehadbettertrythemBecausetheywerelabelledasciderapplesweexpectedthemtobetoosharptoeatAsinglemouthfulwasenoughtoputtheirnameintocontextMorganSweetswerepopularinSomersetinthefirsthalfofthetwentiethcenturyOuroldercustomerstellustheywerecherishedtreatsduringtheWarwhenfoodwasscarceWealsohearofMorganSweetsbeinggreatscrumpingprizessovaluableat

wartimethattreelocationswerekeptsecrettoensureasteadysupplyforthoseintheknowTheseapplesareextremelyjuicywhenripeandweinitiallyaddedthem

toourapplejuicetobalancethesournessofearlycropsWewouldlovetoseearevivalofMorganSweetapplesintheUKifonlyasapoignantreminderofhowcertainvarietiesbecomeunfairlypigeonholedasdessertcidercookingtypes

SalsifyandOgleShieldGratin

ThesalsifyatBarleyWoodgrowsoppositethemainentrancetotherestaurantItisstunningtolookatespeciallywhenitsdelicateflowersturnintoanenormouslysoftdandelionastheygotoseedSeeingitdailyforawholeseasonencouragesustoincludeitineveryformofrecipeWecameupwiththisdishwhenagardeningmagazineaskedusto

produceasetoflunchtimerecipesforgardenerstoeatwhileatworkndashsomethingthatcouldbepreparedinadvancebutenjoyedoutdoorsItwasoriginallyintendedtobeeatencoldHoweverassoonasweaddedthecheeseittookonawholenewdimensionandwebecameconvincedthatourconcoctionhadtoeatenwhilestillhotOgleShieldisaworthySomersetequivalenttoFrenchracletteItmelts

verywellandinouropinionisoneofthebestcheesesforgratinsWedareanyonewhodoesnotlikecheesetotryameltingsliceofOgleShieldIthastheabilitytoturnanycheesescepticintoatrueturophile

SERVES4ndash6

1tbspcidervinegar600gsalsify200mlwhitewine800mlvegetablestock(seehere)200gOgleShieldcheese(orraclette)50gbutter65gplainflour

2tbspdoublecreamfrac12nutmegfinelygratedseasaltandfreshlygroundwhitepepper

Heattheovento180degCGasMark4FillalargebowlwithwaterandaddthevinegartoitWorkingquicklypeelthesalsifyandwashthoroughlyundercoldwaterCutitinto10cmlengthsandthenslicethemthinlylengthwayspreferablyonamandolinetoachieve10cmbatonsAssoonaseachlengthhasbeenslicedplaceittheacidulatedwaterThiswillpreventthesalsifyoxidisingandturningbrown

PutthewhitewineandvegetablestockinapanandbringtotheboilStrainthesalsifyaddtothepanandcookfor6ndash8minutesuntilitistenderbutretainsaslightbiteStrainthesalsifyretainingthecookingliquorReturntheliquortothepanandboiluntilreducedbytwothirds

Meanwhilethinlyslice150gofthecheeseandgratetherestArrangealayerofsalsifyinagratindishapproximately23cmtimes13cmcompletelycoveringthebaseAddanotherlayerofsalsifyfollowedbyathinlayerofOgleShieldslicesandrepeatuntilallthesalsifyandslicedcheesehavebeenadded

MeltthebutterinasaucepanaddtheflourandstirtomakeathickpasteGraduallypourinthereducedcookingliquorstirringconstantlyYoumaynotneedalltheliquidndashstopwhentheconsistencyislikesinglecreamStirinthedoublecreamthenaddthenutmegandsomesaltandpeppertotaste

SlowlypourthesauceoverthelayeredgratinCoverthedishwithfoilplaceintheovenandbakefor25minutesRemovethefoilsprinklethegratedcheeseoverthetopandplaceunderahotgrilluntilthecheesehasmeltedandbeguntobrown

VincentCastellanorsquosVenisonChorizo

OurfriendVincentCastellanoputtogetherthisrecipeforwhenwehaveahealthy-sizedroebuckinthekitchenHebeganhiscareerasapot-washeratacharcuterieinGrenobleintheearly1970sSeeingwholepigsarrivingonaMondayandleavingasterrinespacircteacutessalamiandhamsjustafewdayslaterinspiredhimtoturnasummerjobintoatwo-yearapprenticeshipHemovedtotheUKin1983andworkedasachefsincetherewerefewopportunitiesforcharcutiersthenItisonlyinthelastdecadethathehastakenuphisoriginalprofessionfulltimeonceagainfirmlydeclaringlsquoItiswhatIknowbestrsquoTheUKhasneverdevelopedatraditionofcuredsausagesforthesimple

reasonithasadampclimateInsteadwehavebecomeexpertsatmakingfreshsausagesThecountrieswithacultureofdry-curedmeatsarelargelyconfinedtomountainousregionswithaprevailingdrywindfromthenorthTheSpanishhavedevelopedaparticularskillincuringthathasevolvedinpartduetotheiridealweatherconditionsTherecipewehavedevelopedwithVincentisbasedonatraditionalcured

SpanishchorizocontainingpaprikasmokedpaprikaandgarlicOurversionalsoincludesturmericclovesjunipercorianderandsmokedchilliplusourownsloeginAlternativelyourhousevermouth(seehere)worksbeautifullyBothofferagentlebackgroundflavourDuringautumnwemakethechorizowithneckandshouldercutsfromaroebuckDuetoitslowfatcontentadditionalfatisneededsoweaddporkbellyandbackfattakenfromGloucesterOldSpotpigsThesausageishungfor6ndash7weeksduringwhichtimeitisfermentedbylactic-producingbacteriaTheincreaseinacidandtheparalleldehydrationcoupledwiththehighsaltcontentpreservethechorizowhileintensifyingitsflavourForthecasingVincentusesoxrunnersanaturalporouscasingdistinguishedbyitsgentlecurveTheingredientsbelowaregiveninrelationto1kgoftotalmeatA

manageableamounttomakeis3kgwhichwillfilla3-metrelengthofhogcasing(32mmdiameter)ora15-metrelengthofoxrunners(50ndash55mmdiameter)ThequantityofcuringsaltiscriticalbutalltheotherspicescanbeadjustedaccordingtotasteThecuringsaltcontainssaltpetrewhichpreservesthecolourofthemeatandinhibitsunwelcomebacterialgrowth

Youwillneedasausagemakeroramixerwithasausage-makingattachmentThesecanbeboughtonlinefromwwwweschenfeldercoukwhichalsosellscuringsaltandcasingsAlltheequipmentusedformakingthesausagesshouldbesterilisedfirst

hogcasings(forsmallerchorizo)oroxrunners(forlargerones)alittlevinegar

EACHKILOOFMEATSHOULDCONSISTOFTHEFOLLOWING

800gbonelessvenisonshoulderbellyflapandneckmeat100gporkbelly100gporkbackfat

FORTHESEASONINGS(ALLCALCULATEDPERKILOOFMEAT)

25gcuringsalt20mlsloeginorvermouth20gpaprika5gsmokedpaprika3gsmokedchillipowder1gcayennepepper1gturmeric2ggarlicpowderfrac14tspgroundcumin1ggroundcorianderfrac14tspgroundcloves⅛tspgroundjuniper⅛tspgroundstaranise

ThoroughlywashthesaltoffthecasingsthensoaktheminalargeplastictubofcoldwaterforatleastanhourChangethewateradding1partvinegarto40partswaterandsoakfor30minutesbeforeuse

Cutallthemeatinto3ndash5cmpiecesplaceinabowlandaddthecuringsaltMixthoroughlyandthenstoreinthefridgefor24hoursMixinthealcoholandreturntothefridgeforafurther24hours

Mincethemeatonthefinesettingofamincer(an8mmmincingplate)ensuringthatthetemperatureremainsbelow8degCAddtheremainingseasoningsandmixuntilalltheingredientsadheretogetherthenpressthemixdownfirmlywithyourhandsinordertopushoutasmuchairaspossiblePlaceinasausagefiller

Ifusingoxrunnerscuttheminto30cmlengthsbeforefillingHogcasingscanbefilledcontinuouslyandtiedinto15cm-longsausages

MakeaknotatoneendofyourchosencasingslidetheotherendoverthenozzleofthesausagefillerandfillgraduallyensuringenoughtensioniskeptRemovefromthefillerandtietheendastightlyaspossiblewithstringmakingaloopinitwithwhichtohangthesausagePricktheskinwithaneedletoletoutanyairpockets

Hangthechorizoatroomtemperature(ideally25degC)for24hoursAfterthisstagethechorizocanbeusedforcookingIfyouwantacuredsausagemovethechorizotohanginacoolplace(preferably12ndash14degC)withahumiditylevelof80percentndashyoucanbuyhygrometersingardencentreswithwhichtocheckthehumidityOverthenextfewdaysawhitelsquomouldrsquoshoulddevelopontheskinMaturationcantakefrom3weeks(forhogcasings)to7weeks(foroxrunners)ItrsquosworthcheckingyourchorizoonadailybasisBecauseitisdependentontemperaturehumiditylevelsandthelengthanddiameterofthesausagethematurationtimewillvaryWhenthechorizoisreadyitwillfeelfirmwhensqueezedIfyousliceitwithasharpknifethemeatshouldholdtogetherwellTheskincanbeeatenorremovedasyoupreferTheflavourofthechorizoshouldbeintensewithagoodacidityandsweetnessandspiceflavourscomingthroughintheaftertasteItwillkeepwellinthebottomofthefridgewrappedinfoiloracleanclothforuptoamonth

BASICRECIPES

Stocks

AgoodstockisavitalcomponentofyourrepertoireStockformsthebaseofcountlessdishesandhavingastockthatpacksamassivepunchofflavourmeansthatyouarehalfwaytocreatingadeliciousmealInvestingalittlebitoftimeandmoneyinstockisaworthycauseandweguaranteeyouitwillimproveyourcookingnoendManypeoplendashchefsincludedndashonlyusebonesforstock-makingWelike

tousetheslightlytoughermoreflavourfulcutsofmeatndashtheycanboostastockrsquoscomplexityandtheyrsquorealsoquitecheaptheymaycostalittlemorethanbonesbuttheextraflavourmorethanmakesupforitCombinethatwithagoodratioofvegetablesandherbstweakingthesweetnessorfreshnessaccordingtotasteIainlikestousemorecarrotsonionsandgarlictoachieveasweeterresultHerbscanbeaddedattheveryendaddingfreshnesstothebaseflavourYoucanevenaddthemasawarminfusionrightatthelastsecondThisgivesyougreatcontrolovertheflavourofthestockYoucanmaketherecipesinthisbookforimmediateuseordoubleor

triplethequantitiesandfreezemostinsmallbatchesforupto3monthsIfyoudevotehalfadayorsoeverymonthtomakingstocksyoushouldhaveaconstantsupplyinthefreezerAsalwaysusetheserecipesasaguideandonceyouunderstandthebasicprinciplesexperimentSomeofourdisheshaveundergonecountlessreinventionstogetthemtowheretheyarenowWemakeallourstocksinthepressurecooker(formoreonpressurecookingandwhywedothisseehere)

BeefStock

YIELDSABOUT2KG

1kgbeefboneschoppedinto25ndash5cmpieces(askyourbutchertodothis)600goxtailsectioned

rapeseedoil

rapeseedoil360gonionsfinelysliced1kgbeefshinorchuckchoppedinto25cmcubes220gcarrotsfinelysliced130gbuttonmushroomsfinelysliced220gtomatoesslicedfrac12smallheadofgarlicseparatedintoclovesandsmashedwiththeflatsideofaknifeHeattheovento180degCGasMark4LightlyandthoroughlyrubthebonesandtheoxtailwithrapeseedorvegetableoilPlaceinaroastingtray(orseparateroastingtraysifnecessary)androastfor45ndash60minutesturningthepiecesevery15minutesuntildarkgoldenbrownIfanypartsoftheoxtailbecomebrownbeforeeverythingelseremovefromtheovenandsetaside

MeanwhilecoatthebottomofapressurecookerwithrapeseedoilandplaceoveramediumheatAddtheonionsandcookoveramedium-lowheatuntildarkandcaramelisedndashthiswilltakeabout30ndash45minutesstirringregularlyandscrapinganystickybitsfromthebottomofthepanDonotallowtoburnTakeofftheheatandallowtocool

HeatafryingpanuntilextremelyhotAddafilmofrapeseedoiltheoilshouldbegintosmokeIfitdoesnotthenkeepontheheatuntilsmokinghotAddthebeefshinorchuckandcookturninguntildarkbrownonallsidesavoidingburningTakethemeatoutofthepanandsetasideDrainanyfatoutofthepanbeforeplacingthepanbackonahighheatAddenoughwatertocoverthebaseofthepanandbringtotheboilScrapeawayanyleftoversthatarestucktothebottomofthepanAddthisdeglazingliquidtothepressurecooker

WipeoutyourfryingpanaddafilmofrapeseedoilandplaceoveramediumheatAddthecarrotsandfryuntilsoftandlightlygolden(about20ndash30minutes)AddthecarrotstothecookedonionsalongwiththemushroomsandsetasideuntilreadytouseDeglazethepanusingthesamemethodasaboveandaddtheliquidtothepressurecooker

RepeatingtheprocessfrythetomatoesinoiluntiltheytakeonsomecolourscrapingoffanystickybitsfromthebottomofthepanAddthegarlicandfryforafurthercoupleofminutesensuringnothingburnsAddthe

fryforafurthercoupleofminutesensuringnothingburnsAddthetomatoesandgarlictothepressurecookeranddeglazethefryingpanwithwaterasbeforeAddthedeglazingliquidtothepressurecooker

RemovethebonesfromtheovenwhentheyareadeepgoldencolourPouroffanyexcessfatfromtheroastingtrayPlacethebonesandoxtailinthepressurecookerPuttheroastingtray(s)overahighheatDeglazewithwaterasbeforeandaddtheliquidtothepressurecooker

AddenoughwatertothepressurecookersothattheingredientsareonlyjustcoveredPlaceoveramedium-highheatandbringtoagentlesimmerskimmingawayanyfatandimpuritiesthatrisetothesurfaceOnceatagentlesimmerplacethelidonthepressurecookerandturntheheatuptofullAllowthepressurecookertocometofullpressurebeforereducingtheheatCookatfullpressurefor2hoursRemovefromtheheatandallowthepressurecookertocooltoroomtemperaturebeforeremovingthelidStrainthestockthroughtwolayersofwetmuslinImmediatelychillinabowlsetoveranotherbowlfilledwithiceRemovethelayeroffatthatformsbeforeusingUsewithin4daysorfreezeforupto3months

Whitechickenstock

WeusewhitechickenstockwhenwewantagreatbaseflavourthatdoesnrsquotoverpowerthetasteorcolourofothermoredelicateingredientsItismoresubtlethanourbrownchickenstock(seehere)Thevegetablesaregentlysoftenedandthebonesbrieflyblanchedtoremoveanyimpuritiesthenpressurecookedfor90minutesItisgreatforrisottossoupsandsauces

YIELDSABOUT2KG

15kgchickenwingschoppedinto3ateachjointrapeseedoil300gonionsfinelysliced150gcarrotsfinelysliced120gbuttonmushroomsfinelysliced4garlicclovessmashedwiththeflatsideofaknifePutthechickenwingsinasaucepanandcoverwithcoldwaterPlaceonamediumheatandbringtotheboilskimmingoffanyscumthatrisestothesurfaceOnceboiling

totheboilskimmingoffanyscumthatrisestothesurfaceOnceboilingdrainimmediatelydiscardingthewaterRinsethewingsthoroughlyundercoldwater

Coatthebottomofapressurecookerwithafilmofrapeseedoilandplaceoveramedium-lowheatAddallthevegetablesandcookuntilsoftenedwithoutcolouringthiswilltakeabout10ndash15minutesAddthechickenwingsandenoughcoldwaterjusttocoverPlaceonamedium-highheatandbringtoagentlesimmerskimmingawayanyfatandimpuritiesthatrisetothesurfaceOnceatagentlesimmerplacethelidonthepressurecookerandturntheheatuptofullAllowthepressurecookertocometofullpressurebeforereducingtheheatCookatfullpressurefor90minutes

RemovefromtheheatandallowtocooltoroomtemperaturebeforeremovingthelidStrainthroughtwoormorelayersofwetmuslinoraveryfinechinoisorsieveImmediatelychillinabowlsetoveranotherbowlfilledwithice(orputstraightintothefridge)Usewithin4daysorfreezeforupto3months

BrownChickenStock

YIELDSABOUT2KG

2kgchickenwingschoppedinto3ateachjointafewtablespoonsofskimmedmilkpowder(seeboxbelow)rapeseedorgroundnutoil

300gonionsfinelysliced150gcarrotsfinelysliced150gbuttonmushroomsfinelysliced4garlicclovessmashedwiththeflatsideofknife(or2wetgarlicclovesifavailableandinseason)Heattheovento200degCGasMark6PlacethewingsinaroastingtrayevenlyspreadinasinglelayerandsprinkleoverenoughmilkpowdertolightlycoatthemRoastfor45ndash60minutesturningevery15minutesuntilthewingsareabeautifuldarkbrowncolourThefirsttimeyouturnthewingsgivethepaleundersidealightsprinklingofmilkpowdertooThiswillensurethewingsareanevencolourandimpartmoreflavourintothestock

PlacethepressurecookeroveramediumheattogetitwarmbeforeaddingenoughrapeseedoiltocoverthebottomAddtheonionsReducetoamedium-lowheatandcooktheonionsuntilstickyandcaramelisedthiswilltakeabout30ndash45minutesStirthemregularlytakingcarenottoletthemburnandadjustingtheheatasneededScrapeanystickybitsoffthebottomofthepanWhentheonionsarecaramelisedaddthecarrotsandcookuntilsoftRemovefromtheheatandaddthemushroomsandgarlicSetaside

WhenthewingsareevenlycolouredremovefromtheovenanddrainthefatfromthetrayPlaceallthewingsintothepressurecooker

PlacetheroastingtrayoverahighheatandaddacoveringofwaterandbringtotheboilScrapeoffthestickybitsofmeatwithaspatulaorwoodenspoonPourthedeglazingliquidandcrispybitsofmeatintothepressurecooker

AddenoughcoldwatertothepressurecookertojustcoverthebonesPlaceonamedium-highheatandbringtoagentlesimmerskimmingawayanyfatandimpuritiesthatrisetothesurfaceOnceatagentlesimmerplacethelidonthepressurecookerandturntheheatuptofullAllowthepressurecookertocometofullpressurebeforereducingtheheatCookatfullpressurefor2hours

RemovefromtheheatandallowtocoolnaturallytoroomtemperaturebeforereleasingthelidRemovethelidbeforestrainingthestockthroughseverallayersofwetmuslinorthroughaveryfinechinoisorsieveRefrigerateimmediatelyremovingthelayeroffatfromthetopbeforeuseUsewithin4daysorfreezeforupto3months

UsingmilkpowdertodustthewingsmayseemalittleoddbutthemilkpowderisextraproteinthatbooststheMaillard

Reaction(thebrowningonmeatthatgivesititscharacteristicflavour)ItisarevelationItgivestheliquidanextrahitof

meatinessandresultsinastockthatisarichdeepbrownItrsquosanexcellentandsimplewayofboostingyourstockrsquosflavourprofile

Fishstock

YIELDSABOUT1KG

rapeseedoil100gonionfinelysliced80gcarrotsfinelysliced80gbuttonmushroomfinelysliced1tspfennelseed1tspcorianderseed1kgfishbones(avoidoilyfishlikemackereltroutorsalmon)PlaceapressurecookeroveramediumheatandaddathinfilmofrapeseedoilAddalltheingredientsexceptthefishbonesandcookuntilsoftenedndashthiswilltakeabout5ndash10minutesAddthefishbonestothepressurecookerandaddenoughcoldwaterjusttocover

Placeoveramedium-highheatandbringtoagentlesimmerskimmingoffanyimpuritiesthatrisetothesurfaceOnceatagentlesimmerplacethelidonthepressurecookerandturntheheatuptofullAllowthepressurecookertocometofullpressurebeforereducingtheheatCookatfullpressurefor20minutesRemovefromtheheatandallowtocooltoroomtemperatureStrainthroughtwolayersofwetmuslinintoabowlsetoveranotherbowlfilledwithiceRefrigerateforupto3daysorfreezeforupto1month

VegetableStock

ThisvegetablestockisdelicatesweetandlightlyaromaticItrsquosgreatinrisottossoupsstewsandformakingvegetariansaucesForconveniencemakeatleastdoublethisrecipeandfreezesmallerquantitiesforuseatalaterdate

YIELDSABOUT1KG

rapeseedorvegetableoil550gonionsfinelysliced500gcarrotfinelysliced500gmushroomsfinelysliced(buttonorbrown)200gceleryfinelysliced10garliccloves(or1smallgarlicbulb)smashedwiththeflatsideofaknife2tbspcorianderseed

1tbspfennelseeds4wholestaranises2tspblackpeppercorns2bayleaves

PlaceapressurecookeroveramediumheatandaddathinfilmofrapeseedoilAddallthevegetablestothepanandsweatfor5ndash10minutesuntilthevegetableshavesoftenedAddallthespicesandbayleavesandcoverwithwaterAddthelidandturntheheatuptofullBringtofullpressureandthenreducetheheatCookatfullpressurefor15minutesRemovefromtheheatandallowtocooltoroomtemperature

RemovethelidandpassthestockthroughtwolayersofwetmuslinRefrigerateimmediatelyandusewithin5daysorfreezeforupto3months

MushroomStock

ThismushroomstockisoneofthemoresimplestocksthatyouwillcomeacrossutilisingonlytwoingredientsItssimplicitydoesnotdetractfromitsabilitytoimpartarichumamiflavourintothedish(seehere)ortohelpboostthistasteindishesalreadyrichinumami

YIELDSABOUT500G

500gbuttonorportobellomushroomsfinelysliced500gcoldwater

PutthemushroomsandwaterinapressurecookerandplaceoverahighheatBringtofullpressurebeforeturningtheheatdowntolowCookatfullpressurefor15minutesbeforeturningtheheatoffAllowtocoolto

fullpressurefor15minutesbeforeturningtheheatoffAllowtocooltoroomtemperatureRemovethelidandstrainthestockthroughtwolayersofwetmuslinRefrigerateimmediately

Usewithin5daysorfreezeforupto3months

TomakethisstockwithoutapressurecookerplacetheingredientsinasaucepanandbringtoasimmerKeepatasteadysimmerfor20minutesbeforeremovingfromtheheatAllowtocoolbeforestrainingandrefrigeratingasabove

TheEthicureanSaladDressing

100grapeseedoil60gvintagecidervinegarsuchasOstlerrsquos8gDijonmustardfrac14tspxanthangum(optionalbutrecommended)

AddalltheingredientsexcepttheoiltoablenderorstickblenderjugBlitzonfullspeedfor30secondsbeforeslowlypouringintheoilasyouwouldtomakeamayonnaiseContinueaddinginathinsteadystreamuntilalltheoilisincorporatedBlitzforafurther30secondsonfullspeedRefrigerateforuptoaweek

TomakebyhandcombinealltheingredientsexcludingtheoilinabowlWhiskvigorouslyuntilairyGraduallyaddtheoilwhilewhiskinghard

DarkPlumChutney

MAKESABOUT1KG

550gplumshalvedandstoned450mlmaltvinegar550gdarkbrownsugar300gsultanas150gonionsfinelydiced

10ggarlicfinelydiced35gsalt10gmustardseeds15ggroundgingerfrac12tsponion(nigella)seedsfrac12tspgroundstaranisefrac12tspgroundcinnamon1blackcardamompod

Puttheplumsinalargeheavy-basedsaucepanorapreservingpanalongwiththevinegarandsugarSimmeruntilthefruitbreaksdownthenaddalltheremainingingredientsReturntoasimmerandcookforaround40minutesuntilthickenedStiroftenwhilebeingmindfulofsplashesIthasatendencytospitwhenitisclosetothecorrectconsistencyWhenitisreadyallthethinliquidwillhaveevaporatedandthechutneywillsmelldeeplyrichlikeliquorice

Pourcarefullyintohotsterilisedjars(seehere)andsealInvertthejarsforamomenttoensurethelidsaresterilisedthenturntherightwayupandleavetocoolwhileyouwritealabelforeachjar

PickledBeetroot

PreservingvegetableswithsaltandvinegarisinvaluabletoaseasonalkitchenThismethodalsosuitscarrotcauliflowerandanyotherfirmvegetablesThemethodofcalculatingthesaltandvinegarcontentinthismethodisadaptabletovaryingweightsofproduceandthereforegreatforseasonalglutsChangethespicestosuittheveg

450gpeeledbeetrootcubedinto1cmcubescidervinegarfineseasalt4staranise1tsppeppercorns1tspcuminseeds

1tspcuminseeds

Sprinklethebeetrootgenerouslywithsaltandleavefor1hourDrainandrinseundercoldwater

Placethebeetrootintoa500mlKilnerjarorliddedtupperwarecontainerPlacethecontaineronasetofscalesandsetthemtozero(orlsquotarersquo)CoverthecontentsinwaterandmakeanoteoftheweightDiscardthewaterWeighoutthesameamountofcidervinegarasittookwatertocoverthebeetrootCalculate10percentofthisweightandaddthatweightinsalt(eg200gofcidervinegarwouldrequire20gsalt)PlacethevinegarsaltandspicesinasaucepanoveramediumheatandbringtotheboilImmediatelypourthehotliquidoverthebeetrootinthejarorcontainerEnsurethebeetrootiscompletelycoveredbeforesealingthelidandallowingtocooltoroomtemperatureRefrigerateonceopenedItwillkeepforupto2months

PickledNasturtiumSeeds

AtthestartofNovemberasthefirstfrostsdescendthenasturtiumsthathavebeensousefulfortheirleavesandflowerswillbegintogotoseedAself-seedingplantsuchasthiswonrsquotmissafewseedpodssoweharvestasmanyaswecanandpicklethemasalsquopoormanrsquoscaperrsquo

asmanynasturtiumseedpodsasyoucanfindfineseasalt

PERLITREOFPICKLINGORCIDERVINEGAR

picklingorcidervinegar10gseasaltor10percentbyweightofvinegar2cloves4freshbayleaves5allspiceberries5blackpeppercorns

Sprinklethenasturtiumseedpodsgenerouslywithsaltandleavefor1hourDrainandrinseundercoldwater

Placethenasturtiumseedpodsintoa500mlKilnerjarorliddedtupperwarecontainerPlacethecontaineronasetofscalesandsetthemtozero(orlsquotarersquo)CoverthecontentsinwaterandmakeanoteoftheweightDiscardthewaterWeighoutthesameamountofcidervinegarasittookwatertocovertheseedpodsCalculate10percentofthisweightandaddthatweightinsalt(eg100gofcidervinegarwouldrequire10gsalt)PlacethevinegarsaltandspicesinasaucepanoveramediumheatandbringtotheboilImmediatelypourthehotliquidovertheseedpodsinthejarorcontainerEnsuretheseedpodsarecompletelycoveredbeforesealingthelidInvertthejarsforamomenttoensurethelidsaresterilisedbeforeallowingtocooltoroomtemperatureRefrigerateonceopenedandkeepforupto1month

PickledCarrots

250gcarrotscutinto1cmcubescidervinegar4blackcardamompods2tbspcorianderseedsseasalt

StartbygenerouslysprinklingthecubedcarrotswithsaltSetasidefor1hourforthemoisturetobedrawnout

DrainthecarrotsandrinseoffanyexcesssaltPlaceinatupperwarecontainerlargeenoughjusttoholdthemPlacethecontaineronasetofscalesandsetthemtozero(orlsquotarersquo)CoverthecontentsinwaterandmakeanoteoftheweightDiscardthewaterWeighoutthesameamountofcidervinegarasittookwatertocoverthecarrotsCalculate10percentofthisweightandaddthatweightinsalt(eg200gofcidervinegarwouldrequire20gsalt)PlacethevinegarandsaltinasaucepanwiththecardamomandcorianderandbringtotheboilOnceboilingremovefromtheheatandpouroverthecarrotsAllowtocooltoroomtemperaturebeforerefrigeratingThepickledcarrotswillkeepforupto4weeks

WinterFruitJelly

WehaveahedgerowthatreadslikeabookofautumnandwinterfruitsndashblackberrybullacedamsonhawthornloganberryrosehiprowanandsloePreservingthemasjelliesgivesusfreshburstsofvitaminCthroughthewinterandaddsdepthtodishescookedoverthecoldermonthsUsewhateverfruitsyouhaveinwhatevercombinationfollowingthis

basicmethodWehavefoundthatfreezingtheberriesfirstandthensteamingforjuiceextractionproducesasatisfyingclearjellyThesecondbenefittofreezingthefruitisthatyouwillhavealittlemoretimetoforagebeforemakingyourjellyWedevelopedthismethodafterwelearntthatrowanberriesrequire

freezingbeforeuseastheycontainparasorbicacidanacidthatisindigestibletohumansThisaciddegradestoasafesorbicacidwhenfrozenOursteambasketmethodforextractingjuicefromfruitprovedtobemoreeffectivewhenthefruithadspenttimeinthefreezerpresumablybecausethecellwallsarebrokendownbyfreezingtherebyreleasingmoreliquidatthesteamingstage

MAKESABOUT5JARSPERKGOFFRUIT

500ghedgerowfruit500gBramleyorcrabapplespeeledandroughlychopped(pipsandcoresleftin)750gcastersugarperlitrekgofjuice

30mlorganicpreservative-freelemonjuice(bottledjuicehasasetacidity)perlitrekgofjuiceYOUWILLALSONEED

ajamthermometerordigitalkitchenprobeasheetofmuslinsterilisedjamjarsandlidsorKilnerjars(seehereforinstructionsonsterilising)LineasteamingbasketwithafoldedpieceofmuslinthisisnotessentialthoughitwillallowonlyjuicetofallintothepanbelowaidingtheclarityofthefinishedjellyPlacethehedgerowfruitandBramleyorcrabapplesinthesteamingbasketandsteamoverapanofboilingwatersetoveramediumtolowheatfor1frac12hoursRemoveboththesteamerandwaterfromtheheatandleavetocoolanddrainovernight

ThenextdaycheckthatthefruitiswelldrainedYoucansqueezeanylastmoisturefromthemuslinbutthiswillmakethejellycloudyCompostordiscardthenowflavourlessfruit

MeasurethevolumeoftheliquidinthepanndashorbetterstillweighitforaccuracyndashandpourintoalargecleanstainlesssteelpanAdd750gofsugarand30mloflemonjuiceperkiloofliquidCookoverahighheatstirringuntilthesugarisdissolvedLeavetoboilvigorouslywithoutstirringfor10ndash20minutesandthencheckthetemperatureitshouldbearound102degCYouareaimingforasettingpointtemperatureofabout103ndash105degCIfyoudonrsquothaveathermometerputaspoonfulofthejamsyrupontoachilledplateandplaceinthefridgefor1minuteSlideyourfingeracrosstheplateintothedotofsyrupandseewhetheritcrinklesupandholdsformforamomentIfitdoesthenithasreachedsettingpointIfnotcontinuetocookthejellyoverthesamehighheattestingevery5minutesAperfectlysetjellyoncechilledwillonlygiveslightresistancetoaspoonandholdshape(Itisworthnotingthatajellythatisover-firmismoreusefulthanonethathasnotsetatallsountilyouareconfidentwithyourthermometeraimforthehigherendofthetemperaturesettingzone)Skimthejelly(oraddalittleknobofbutterandstir)toremoveanyscumthencarefullypourintowarmsterilisedjarsleavingacentimetreofspaceatthetopClosethelidstightlytheninvertthemfornomorethanaminutetoensurethelidisheatedwellandsterilisedReturntoanuprightpositionandleavetocoolbeforestoringinadarkcoolplaceforimmediateconsumptionoruptooneyear

VARIATIONS

CrabapplemedlarandquincewillworkperfectlywellwithoutadditionalpectinfromBramleyapplesbutbesuretoincludetheircoresandpipsduringsteamingandthecitrusduringcookingtosetthemYoucanincludeextraappletoincreasethevolumeifyoulikeQuinceneedtheirfinedownyhairswashingoffpriortocookingQuincejellyhaspineappleovertonesandanunbelievableamberglowwhenfinishedinthejarThemedlarsneedtobelsquoblettedrsquobeforeusingTheyfallfromthetreestillhardandneedtobeleftsomewherecooltogosoftsquishyandblackenedCrabapplejellyisagreatvehicleforotherherbswhichyoucanaddduringthesteamingprocessStaraniselavendertarragonrosemarymintandsageareallgreatandgeraniumleafworkedatreatwhenwetrieditonawhim

Flakypastry

MakingflakypastryisalengthybutrelativelysimpleprocessItrequires

MakingflakypastryisalengthybutrelativelysimpleprocessItrequiresrestingforanhourbetweeneachlsquoturnrsquo(aturnreferstoeachtimeithasbeenrolledoutbutterandlardaddedthenfoldedandreturnedtothefridge)AlwaysresistanyurgetokneadasthiswillmakethepastryelasticPerfect

flakypastryshouldbecrispandverylightWhatyouwantisapastrythatincorporatesthemultilayeredfatandpocketsofairthatcreatetheflakytexture

150gsaltedbutteratroomtemperaturebutnotoily150glardatroomtemperaturebutnotoily350gstrongwhiteflour1tspfineseasalt1frac12tsplemonjuice

Measureout200mlcoldwateraddahandfuloficecubesandsetaside

PutthebutterandlardinasmallmixingbowlandmixtogetherwithawoodenspoonThiswilltakesomeworkbuttheaimistogetthetwofairlyhomogenousWeighoutthree70gportionsandplaceeachinitsowndishCovertwoofthemwithclingfilmandplaceinthefridgeYouwillbeleftwith90gofbutterlardinthemixingbowlandonedishofbutterlardatyourside

SifttheflourandsaltintoabowlandaddthelemonjuiceAddthe90gfatleftinthemixingbowlthoroughlyscrapingthesidesofthebowlwithaspatulatogetallofitoutRubthefatintotheflourwithyourfingertipsuntilthemixtureresemblesroughbreadcrumbsIftherearestilllumpsoffatdonrsquotworryndashthiswillhelpcreateairpocketsinthepastryMakeawellinthecentreofthemixtureandplacethebowlontoweighingscalesKeepingbacktheicecubespourtheicedwaterintothecentreofthewellmakingsureyoudonrsquotaddmorethan200gMixthewaterintotheflourwitharound-bladedknifeuntilapliableslightlystickydoughhasformedTurnoutontoalightlyflouredworksurfaceShapethedoughroughlyintoacubeandusingarollingpinrollitoutawayfromyoutocreatearectangleapproximately30cmtimes15cm

Takethe70gfatthatdidnotgointhefridgebreakitroughlyapartintochunksanddotevenlyaroundthebottomtwothirdsoftherectangleFoldthetopthirdofpastryoverthemiddlethirdthenfoldupthebottomthirdof

thetopthirdofpastryoverthemiddlethirdthenfoldupthebottomthirdofpastryndashlikefoldingaletterSealtheleftandrightedgesandthensealthehorizontalfoldbypressingwithyourthumbandfingersUsingyourthumbmarkanindentinthecentreofthepastrylsquoenvelopersquoThisdotsignifiesthatitisthepastryrsquosfirstlsquoturnrsquoItrsquoswellworthdoingasrememberingwhereyoursquoreuptoafteralongafternooncanbechallengingWrapthepastryinclingfilmandplaceinthefridgeforatleast1hour

RemovethepastryfromthefridgeandgiveitaquarterturnanticlockwisesothatoneoftheshortersidesisnearesttoyouRollthepastryoutawayfromyoutoproduceanother30cmtimes15cmrectangleRepeattheprocesswithoneofthedishesofchilledlardandbutterfillingthebottomtwo-thirdsofthepastrywithdotsofthemixturethenfoldingsealingandmarking2indentsinthepastry(tosignifyitssecondlsquoturnrsquo)Wrapinclingfilmandreturntothefridgeforatleast1hour

RepeattheentireprocessusingthefinalramekinoffatrememberingtogivethepastryaquarterturnanticlockwiseMark3indentstosignifyitsthirdandfinalturnItisnotunusualforflakyorpuffpastrytohave6turnsThisistimeconsumingbutifyouwanttotryityouwillhaveanevenlighterflakierpastryIfoptingfortheextraturnsyouwillhaverunoutoffatattheendofyourthirdturnContinuerollingandfoldingasyouhavebeenbutwithouttheadditionoffatWestronglyrecommendthese3extraturnsastheextralayerswillresultinacrispierlessdensepastrythatisfarsuperior

Puffpastry

PuffpastryismadeinthesamewayastheFlakyPastryabovebutusingallunsaltedbutterinsteadofsaltedbutterandlard

CandiedPeel

1lemonpeeledwithallthewhitepithstillattachedtothepeel1bloodorangepeeledwithpithstillattached

1thumb-sizedpieceoffreshgingerpeeled500gcastersugar

PlacethecitruspeelandgingerinapancoverwithcoldwaterandbringtotheboiloveramediumheatDraindiscardingthewaterReturntothepancoverwithfreshwaterandbringslowlytotheboilagainthendrainRepeatthisprocessoncemore(ithelpstoextractthebitterness)thenplacethepeelandgingerinice-coldwaterfor10minutes

Meanwhileputthesugarinapanwith750mlcoldwaterandheatstirringoccasionallyuntilthesugarhasdissolvedRemovefromtheheatandsetaside

Cutthegingerandfruitsinto5mmcubesandaddthemtothesugarsyrupCookonthelowestpossibleheatfor6hoursathermometerwillbeusefulhereasyouneedtokeepthesyrupat70ndash80degCYoumayneedtohavethepanhalf-onhalf-offtheheatdependinghowhottheburnerisWhenthepeelisdoneitwillbesweetandsoftinathicksyrupStrainandleavetocoolthenstoreinanairtightcontainerItwillkeepforaboutamonth

coolthenstoreinanairtightcontainerItwillkeepforaboutamonth

EthicureanMixedSpice

10gallspiceberries2nutmegsgrated10gwholemace4gfennelseeds10gcloves4gcassia4gcardamomseeds2tspgroundcinnamon15ggranulatedsugar

Warmalltheingredientsexceptthecinnamonandsugarinaheavy-basedfryingpanuntilaverylightsmokeiscreatedandthearomasandoilsofthespicesarereleasedPlaceinaspicegrinderandblitztoafinepowderMixwiththecinnamonandsugarandthenstoreinanairtightcontainerItwillkeepforabout3months

SaltCaramel

200gcastersugar2tspflakyseasalt

Heattheovento120degCGasMarkfrac12Placeasiliconebakingmatonabakingsheetandputitintheoven(ifyoudonrsquothaveasiliconebakingmatputalayerofbakingparchmentonthetrayonceithasbeenheated)Haveasmallbowlofcoldwaterandasiliconepastrybrushattheready

Putthesugarintoameticulouslycleanfryingpanadd4tablespoonsofwaterandstiruntiltherearenodrypatchesofsugarPlaceonamedium-highheatandcookwithoutstirringThemixturewillstarttobubbleAsthetemperaturerisesthesugarwillbegintocarameliseincertainareasofthepanYoumayalsonoticeitbeginningtocrystallisearoundtheedgesofthe

panYoumayalsonoticeitbeginningtocrystallisearoundtheedgesofthepanIfleftuncheckedtheseareascancausethesyruptocrystalliseresultinginapanfullofgrainysugarcrystalsndashnotthedesiredresultTopreventthisbrushcoldwateroverthesecrystallisedpatchesontheedgesofthepanusingasiliconepastrybrushWhenthesugarbeginstocaramelisegentlyscrapethesedarkeningpatchesintothecentreofthepanusingaheatproofspatulaKeepgentlymovinganypatchesofcaramelisingsugarintoareasthatarenotcaramelisingThiswillensureanevencolourWhenthecaramelhasturnedagooddeepgoldencolour(ifyouuseasugarthermometeritwillregister178ndash180degCndashhoweveryoucankeepcheckingthetruecolourbydrippingafewdropsontoawhiteplate)pouritimmediatelyontoonesideofthesiliconematPreheatingthematmeansthatthecarameldoesnrsquotcooldownsoquicklywhenyoupouritonandthisallowsyoutotiltthebakingsheetinordertoachieveaverythinlayerofcaramelYouneedtoworkquicklyhoweverAssoonasthesugarbeginstocoolitwillstarttosetSprinkletheseasaltoverthecaramelwhileitisstillhot

Letthecaramelcooltoroomtemperaturethensnapitinto25ndash5cmshardsItshouldbebrittleWhenyoueatititshouldbecrunchyandnotsticktoyourteethKeepinanairtightcontainerinacooldryplaceforupto2weeks(caramelissusceptibletomoisturecontentandwillgoverystickyifexposedtoit)

Rhubarbsyrup

MAKESENOUGHTOFILLA700MLBOTTLE

500grhubarbwashedtrimmedandcutinto5cmpieces350gsugar

Placetherhubarbinasaucepanwith200mlcoldwaterBringtotheboilthenreducetoasimmerandcookuntilallofthejuicefromtherhubarbhasbeenextractedandtherhubarbisalmostcompletelybrokendownthiswilltakearound30minutes(pleasedonotwastethecookedrhubarbtryitwithporridgeorabowlofyoghurt)

StrainthecookedrhubarbthroughapieceofmuslinitcanbeleftforafewhoursPlacethestrainedliquidinacleansaucepanaddthesugarandbringtoasimmertodissolvethesugarforaround5minutesPourthehotliquidintoasterilisedbottleOnceopenedrefrigerateandconsumewithin2weeks

FRUITVINEGARS

Anyonewithaninterestinfoodhistoryandtheeffectcertainingredientshavehadonourcookingwouldagreethattheinventionofvinegarchangedtheculinarymapbeyond

recognitionTheoriginsofvinegardatebacktotheMiddleAgeswhenitsimportancecentredonitbeingatoolforfoodpreservation

PreservingfoodwascrucialforsurvivalparticularlyincountriespronetomoreextremeweatherVinegaralsohadthehighly

desirablequalityofbeingasubstituteforwinewhendilutedwithwaterwhichisperhapswhyRomansoldiersinsistedonitbeingpartoftheirrations(Brothwell1969pages160ndash2)AtthattimevinegarwasmanufacturedfromwinethathadgoneflatAncient

RomancookeryrecordssuchasApiciusafamousRomancollectioncompiledinthe4thor5thCenturyADmention

plentyofusesforvinegarAndsoitwasthattheimaginativelygluttonousRomansstartedusingvinegarasmuchmorethanapreservecreatingthenowcommonsaladdressingSuchwastheRomansrsquoloveofvinegarthattheymadesurethatnothingwaseatenwithoutasauceordressingTheobsessionwithvinegar

seemedtohavecarriedthroughtoElizabethantimeswhentherewereplentyofreportsoftheoverlyenthusiasticuseofvinegarinBritishcookingAfamousItaliannamedCastelvetromadea

pointofcomplainingaboutthestateofthesaladsinthiscountrywhichhefoundwereservedswimminginvinegarwithouteithersaltoroil(Wilson1973pages363ndash4)TheBritishindeedcameupwithSalamagundya17th-centurysaladinwhichvegetablesweredressedwithvinegaroilandsugar

(Wilson1973page360)

FriendsandSuppliersThissectionisdedicatedtopeoplewehavehadthepleasureofworkingwithoverthelastfewyearsmanyofwhomshareourbeliefsinsustainabilityandpreservingthethingsweenjoyforfuturegenerationsAshridgeCiderwwwashridgecidercoukAdrianBootswwwwalkthemendipscomAlbamClothingwwwalbamclothingcomAspallCiderVinegarwwwaspallcoukBarbourwwwbarbourcomBoxSteamBrewerywwwboxsteambrewerycoukBristolBeerFactorywwwbristolbeerfactorycoukBritishSaffronwwwbritishsaffroncoukCabritoGoatMeatwwwcabritogoatmeatcoukVincentCastellanorsquosCharcuteriewwwcastellanoscoukWilliamCatchesidewwwcatchesidecutlerycomChandosDeliwwwchandosdelicom

ChaseDistillerywwwchasedistillerycoukCheddarAleswwwcheddaralescoukTheCommunityFarmwwwthecommunityfarmcoukCorksofCothamwwwcorksofcomMarkCoxatBarleyWoodKitchenGardenwwwwalledgardencoukgarden1htmlCreedyCarverwwwcreedycarvercoukCrookandChurnDairy(JohnandKateHowell)ApplinsFarmBlandfordForumDorsetDT118RAJonathanCrumprsquosCheeseOrchardHouseStandishParkFarmOxlynchStonehouseGloucestershireGL103DGOtterFarm(MarkDiacono)wwwotterfarmcoukDiscoveryTortillaswwwdiscoveryfoodscoukDorsetBlueVinnywwwdorsetbluemoonfruitcomTheWatercressCompanywwwthewatercresscompanycoukEssentialTradingwwwessential-tradingcoukhomeaspxTheEthicalShellfishCompanywwwethicalshellfishcompanycoukTheExmouthMusselCompanywwwexmouthmusselscom

ExtractCoffeeRoasterswwwextractcoffeecoukFentimanswwwfentimanscomFinisterre(EthicalColdWaterSurfCompany)wwwfinisterreukcomFinisterreisacold-watersurfcompanythatthinksdifferentlyraisesquestionsaboutthesupplychainandthewayproductsaremanufacturedandbelievesthatgreatproductscanbebornofresponsiblepracticesTheirsuitskeepIaintoasty-warmontheoccasionalchancehegoesforasurfForagerwwwforagerorgukForestProducewwwforestproducecomFusselswwwfusselsfinefoodscoukTheGingerBeerPlantwwwgingerbeerplantnetGampGGoodfellowrsquoswwwgoodfshopnetGoodfellowampGoodfellowLtdaresuppliersofexclusivetablewarechefsrsquoclothingkitchenequipmentandspecialisttoolsformoleculargastronomyTheycandesignandproduceuniquetablewareproductsWethankthemfortheirsupportinprovidingsomeoftheplatesforourphotographyGransforsBrukswwwgransforscomHarkilaofScandanaviawwwharkilaukcoukSwedishclothingcompanyforgearthathaskeptJackandMatthewwarmanddryoncountlesshuntingtripsHillFarmDairy(forStawleygoatsrsquocheese)wwwhillfarmdairycouk

HobbsHouseBakerywwwhobbshousebakerycoukHomewoodCheeseswwwhomewoodcheesescoukHurstwoodFarmwwwcobnutoilcoukKeenrsquosCheddarLtdwwwkeenscheddarcoukKernowsashimiwwwkernowsashimicoukMrsKirkhamrsquoswwwmrskirkhamscomLaverstokeParkFarmwwwlaverstokeparkcoukLeCreusetwwwlecreusetcoukLongleyFarmwwwlongleyfarmcomJekkarsquosHerbFarmwwwjekkasherbfarmcomMadgettrsquosFarmwwwmadgettsfarmcoukMarkrsquosBreadwwwmarksbreadcoukMendipMomentswwwmendipmomentscoukMontezumarsquoswwwmontezumascoukMoorBeerwwwmoorbeercouk

NativeBreedsCurersandCharcutierswwwnativebreedscoukTheCornishShellfishCompanyLtdwwwcornishshellfishcoukCornish-assuredoysterstheyspecialiseinthesupplyofoystersspeciallypurifiedtoremovethethreatofnorovirusfoodpoisoningNealrsquosYardCreamerywwwnealsyardcreamerycoukNorfolkSaffronwwwnorfolksaffroncoukManorFarm(forOgleshieldcheese)wwwmontgomerycheesecoukOldTownwwwold-towncoukOliverHarveyBritishChefrsquosWhiteswwwoliverharveycoukOriginalBeanswwworiginalbeanscomOstlersCloudyCiderVinegarwwwostlerscidermillcoukPerryrsquosCiderwwwperryscidercoukPowellsofOlvestonwwwpowellsofolvestoncomPrestigeEventEquipmentHirewwwprestigehirebizRationalSelf-CookingCentrewwwrationalcombiovenscomSharphamParkwwwsharphamparkcom

SipsmithGinwwwsipsmithcomSomersetCheeseCompanywwwsomersetcheesecoukSomersetCiderBrandywwwciderbrandycoukSomersetFarmersrsquoMarketswwwsomersetfarmersmarketscoukSticheltonwwwsticheltoncoukTheStorywwwthestorygroupcoukThaliCafewwwthethalicafecoukToastwwwtoastcoukThanksToastandspecialthankstoLaraSmrtnikTrethowanrsquosDairywwwtrethowansdairycoukTruffleHunterwwwtrufflehuntercoukUltracomidawwwultracomidacoukVillageMaidwwwvillagemaidcheesecoukWestCountryWaterBuffalowwwwestcountrywaterbuffalocomWestCroftCiderwwwburnham-on-seacoukwest_croft_ciderWestcombeDairywwwwestcombedairycom

TheWildBeerCowwwwildbeercocomWildStoveswwwwildstovescoukWingsofStMaweswwwwingofstmawescoukWoottonOrganicDairywwwwootton-dairycomPaulAYoungwwwpaulayoungcouk

BibliographyBeetonIsabellaMrsBeetonrsquosBookofHouseholdManagement(CassellandCo2000edn)

BodeWilliEuropeanGastronomy(GrubStreet2000)

BrothwellDonandPatriciaFoodinAntiquity(ThamesandHudson1969)

BrownJaredandMillerAnistatiaTheMixellanyGuidetoVermouthampOtherAperitifs(Mixellany2011)

CliffordSueandKingAngelaEnglandinParticular(HodderandStoughton2006)

ConigliaroTonyDrinks(EburyPress2012)

TheCulinaryInstituteofAmericaandMigoyaFranciscoFrozenDesserts(WileyampSons2008)

DavidElizabethSummerCooking(Penguin1955)

DavidsonAlanTheOxfordCompaniontoFood(OxfordUniversityPress1999)

DowningGrahamTheDeerStalkingHandbook(Quiller2008)

Fearnley-WhittingstallHughTheRiverCottageCookbook(Collins2011)

Fearnley-WhittingstallHughTheRiverCottageMeatBook(HodderandStoughton2004)

GrigsonJaneEnglishFood(Penguin1974)

HartleyDorothyFoodinEngland(Macdonald1954)

HicksSusanTheFishCourseLondon(GuildPublishing1987)

LarousseGastronomique(Hamlyn2009)

LeithPrueandWaldergraveCarolineLeithrsquosCookeryBible(BloomsburypublishingPLC1991)

MabeyRichardFoodforFree(Collins1972)

McGeeHaroldOnFoodandCooking(HodderampStoughton2004)

McVicarJekkaJekkarsquosCompleteHerbBook(KyleCathie2009)

ParsonsBradThomasASpiritedHistoryofaClassicCure-AllwithCocktailsRecipesandFormulasBitters(TenSpeedPress2011)

PhillipsRogerMushrooms(Macmillan2006)

ReganGaryTheJoyofMixology(ClarksonPotter2003)

SegnitNikkiTheFlavourThesaurus(Bloomsbury2010)

SpryConstanceandHumeRosemaryTheConstanceSpryCookeryBook(AldinePress1956)

WilsonCAnneFoodandDrinkinBritainFromtheStoneAgetothe19thCentury(AcademyChicagoPublishers2003)

WondrichDavidImbibe(Pedigree2007)

Acknowledgements

FRIENDSANDFAMILY

TheEthicureanwouldliketothankfirstandforemostElenaWendyandPhilforbelievinginusevenwhenthiswasjustadistantdreamandfortheirhelpwithrunningTheEthicurean(veryoftenrequestedatshortnotice)AdditionallywewouldliketothankPhilandElenafortheiroutstandingmanagementoftheapplejuiceproductionWewouldalsoliketothankMarkandLindaCoxLillyTessaTricksforherenthusiasmhardworkandgreatresearchskillsCharlieTricksAndrewElderforbeinglovelycommittedandhard-workingSamLaceyandBigMikeCanningsIanandMoniqueHillmanandJosephSarahLavelleJasonIngramJaineBevanJaneMiddletonDavidEldridgeTimBatesIvortheBeeKeeperAdrianBootsCleaveNursery-AlanDownEmmaDibbenKatieChardandPaulFarrelforlendingustheirprintsBillatClayabilityHelenDowningFionaBeckettPaulWinch-FurnessBrettEllisandlastbutnotleastOchothedog(bestdog)

PaucirclawouldliketothankElenandashthisbookwouldnothaveseenthelightofdaywithoutyouYoursupportwithadminOchorsquoswalksapplepressingproofreadingandgenerationofideashasbeeninvaluabletothisprojectThanksforalwaysbelievinginmeandsupportingeverythingIdoIwouldnotbewhereIamifitwasnrsquotforyouPablondashsomeofmyhappiestmomentsandthebestchildhoodfoodmemoriesaresharedwithyouYouhavekeptmesanethroughoutthewritingofthisbookyouaremybestfriendandfavouritebrotherPoppyndashyoursmilingpresenceandrelentlessoptimismmakemefeelluckytobeinyourlifeMariondashfortakingmetoallthoserestaurantsforteachingmeaboutregionalityoffoodinMexicoforshowingmethevalueofgoodfoodandensuringatalltimesthatweatethebestmealsthatwepossiblycouldforshowingmethatfoodisworthfeelingpassionateaboutMikendashIhavenodoubtthatyouwouldhavedoneanythinginyourpowertosupportthisprojectandIknowyouwouldhavebeenproudAbueTomasitandashthereisnobettercookthanyouThemealsyoupreparedforus

TomasitandashthereisnobettercookthanyouThemealsyoupreparedforusaschildrenarecherishedmemoriesthatIholdveryclosetomyheartThankyoufortakingmetothemercadoasachilddespitemywingingManyvaluablelessonsaboutfoodwerelearntinthosetripsAbueNataliandashforcookingthosedeliciousfeastsonSundaysIwillbeeternallygratefultoyouforfillingmylifewithallthosespecialmemoriesoffamilymealsTodoslosZaratesndashSuapoyosiempremehainspiradoaconvertirenrealidadtodosmissuenosThePenningtonsespeciallyMatthewandIainwhosenaturalabilitytoproduceoutstandingfoodcontinuestodriveustoplacesweonlydreamtofbeforeThanksforyourdedicationhardworksenseofhumour(whichhaskeptourspiritsupduringdifficulttimes)andadmirablecreativityTheBevansndashfortheirunequivocalsupportandespeciallytoJackforhisrelentlessenergyandpassionforourbusinessIthinkofyouallaspartofmyfamilyNeilSiLoandAmyndashforbeingthebestfriendsthatanyonecouldeverwishforThankyouformakingmefeelhappyandsafewhenIamaroundyouIhaveenjoyedsomeofthebestmealsinmylifewithyouCorinneHenryRosieTomLiamEmilyAmyHKatieandJackiendashwecouldnothavedoneitwithoutyou

JackwouldliketothankThankyouWendyandPhilBevanforbeingthegreatestpillarsanymancouldaskforKevinandAbigailforallthelimitlessadventuresandconversationsthatultimatelyrevolvedaroundbeerandfoodElenaZarateforbeingthefifthmemberofTheEthicureanJanelsquoBaggagersquoBillyardforbeingthebeautifulinspirationtojointhetradeChloeBlackmanforbeingtalentedsupportiveanddownrightawesomeHuwRuddalforbeingagentlemanandascoundrelAlltheArleyVillainsthatbecameGwynnStreetthankyouofallyourhelpmusicfoodandtoastedseedsMarkJemmaandtheCalverfamilyforthosefirstformativefoodandboozeexperiencesAlexCueDanielSnowandtheirfamiliesforbeingwonderfulJamiePikeforyourfriendshipRichardTringandJustynBellforallthoseincredibleboozynerdycocktailconversationsToallmyfriendsthatliveinourwonderfulhomewhatanabsolutedreamTimHaywardandFireandKnivesforalwaysreplyingtomyemailshoweverobscureThankyouJackieRabaioittiyoutaughtthismanhowtotellastoryFinallycheersMatthewPenningtonforpoachingmewetbehindtheearsfromalifeof9ndash5crimeandPaucirclaandIainforbeingsuchmarvellousfriendsandcolleagues

IainwouldliketothankMichelleyourtirelesssupportthislastyearhasmeantmoretomethanIcouldeversayandIthankyouimmenselyThewritingofthisbookwouldnothavebeenpossiblewithoutyouPeterIwouldnotbewhereIamhadwenotmetWhatyoudoisphenomenalandIameternallygratefultohavethetwoofyouinmylifeTomysistersTaraandEllieBothofyouhavebeennothingbutsupportiveandlovingsincethedayIwasbornThewordlsquoprivilegedrsquodoesnrsquotevencomeclosewhentalkingaboutyouToallofthebossaiirsquosAndyArranBurgerFrithGuyImogenLaurenLoisMattyNikkiPeeeeteRobSwainandZolaSomeofthefondestmemoriesIhaveinmylifeareofbeingwithallofyouIamashappyasIcanbewhenwersquoretogetherandIloveyouallThanksforyoursupportandIdelightinthemomentwersquorenexttogetherTOClareyourfriendshiphasbeenoneofthemostmeaningfulthingsIhaveexperiencedSorrythatcommunicationcanbedistantbutknowthatyouarealwaysinmyhearthowevermanymilesseparateusThanksforoveradecadeofsupportandsmilesToRachelandallofthePerrysyourwelcomingofmeintoyourfamilywasoneofthemostsignificanteventsinmylifeYourhumblewayoflifehowcloseyouallareandhowdeliciousyourfoodwasissomethingIwillalwaysstrivetoachievethroughoutmylifelsquoThankyoursquocouldnevercomeclosetowhatIwanttosaybutthankyounonethelessItwasatrulyhappytimeformeMatthewforinvitingmetostartthisbusinesswithyouIameternallygratefulYoulikemyothersiblingsarealegendandIloveyouandtoPaucirclaandJackIloveyoubothTherearenothreepeopleIwouldratherworkthishardwithItrsquosbeenmorethanamammothundertakingbutitrsquosthebestthingwersquovedonetodateHerersquostoasuccessfulandhappybusinessDadyoursupportandabilitytomakeyourchildrensmileispraiseworthyIamgratefultohavehadyouasarolemodelandIhopetoseemoreofyouinthefutureToMumthankyouforbringingthebestfamilyintoexistenceIlovebothofyouToTobyDanandallthePumpHousecrewtoJoshHollyandallatthePonyampTrapthanksforwelcomingusnewcomersontotheBristolsceneWelookforwardtoworkingwithyouinthefutureTothegreatchefsbeforemethatwerewillingtosharetheirknowledgeyouneverceasetoinspiremeteachmeandhelpmegrowAndfinallytotheOceanThemostbeautifulthingonthisEarthandtheplacewhereIfeelmostathome

MatthewwouldliketothankIameternallygratefultothefollowingfriendswhoarethemostamazingpeopleintheworldTheZarateFamilyElenaMikePaucirclaPabloampPoppyIoweeverythingtoyoursupportandembracingmeasfamilyhomefromhomeThePenningtonFamilyJohnJaneyAngelaDavidTaraJontyEllieDanMacyLisaIainandMichelleTheBevansareonestunningfamilyWendyPhilandJackandKevinSimonWilkinsonNeilWilkinsonLoisWoodwardAmyMartinLiamKnappEmilyWallisAmyHowerskaandEmilyWrightTheArmisteadFamilyIainKeithSmithJackieChardAndrewGriffinandTerryRobertsforhelpingmeembarkonmyjourneyintoseriouslygreatfoodJuliaandPaulPilcherthefriendliestforagersandtheirsuperbmushroomhaulsMyKitchenFamilyIainRichBowmanJustynaSzumlewskaThomasParslowSophieLucyandAndyElderChefsJoshEggletonandTobyGrittenforwelcomingussoreadilyintotheBristolrestaurantsceneThankstochefswhohaveinspiredmeElenaArzakNikiSegnitHestonBlumenthalSimonRoganFergusHendersonMagnusNilssonandJonnyMillsBenjaminHoffforlsquoTheTaoofPoohampTeofPigletrsquoPaucirclaIainandJackamonumentalachievementofworkanddedicationthathastestedusallYouaremygreatestfriendsIloveyou

ThisebookiscopyrightmaterialandmustnotbecopiedreproducedtransferreddistributedleasedlicensedorpubliclyperformedorusedinanywayexceptasspecificallypermittedinwritingbythepublishersasallowedunderthetermsandconditionsunderwhichitwaspurchasedorasstrictlypermittedbyapplicablecopyrightlawAnyunauthorizeddistributionoruseofthistextmaybeadirectinfringementoftheauthorrsquosandpublisherrsquosrightsandthoseresponsiblemaybeliableinlawaccordingly

Version10

EpubISBN9781448147274

13579108642

Publishedin2013byEburyPressanimprintofEburyPublishingARandomHouseGroupCompanyTextcopyMatthewPenningtonIainPenningtonPaucirclaZarateJackAdair-Bevan2013

PhotographycopyEburyPress2013

MatthewPenningtonIainPenningtonPaucirclaZarateandJackAdair-BevanhaveassertedtheirrighttobeidentifiedastheauthorsofthisWorkinaccordancewiththeCopyrightDesignsandPatentsAct1988

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ISBN9780091949921

  • Contents
  • List of Recipes
  • About the Book
  • Title Page
  • The Ethicurean
  • Winter
    • Beetroot Carpaccio with Honeyed Walnuts
    • Duck Terrine with Cranberries and Cobnuts
    • Tandoor Scallops Celeriac Pureacutee and Pickled Rock Samphire
    • Monkfish Cheeks with Saffron Cauliflower and Aniseed
    • Roast Partridge with Bread and Cheese
    • Lambrsquos Wool
    • Janetrsquos Jungle Juice Ice with Cheddar 99 Flake
    • Rabbit Confit with Lovage Breadcrumbs
    • Confit Meats
    • Confit Tomatoes with Ruffle Basil
    • Beef Brisket Slow-roasted in Coffee Sauce with Valor Mash
    • Pigeon Breasts with Beetroot Pearl Barley and Bordelaise Sauce
    • Steamed Lemon Sole with Fondant Pink Firs Golden Beetroot and Nasturtium Remoulade
    • Sea Robin with Fennel Butter Sauce and Herbed Pink Firs
    • Pineapple Turmeric and Ginger Glazed Ham with lsquoPiccalillirsquo
    • Glazed Star Anise Carrots
    • Eccles Cakes with Dorset Blue Vinny Sauce
    • Milk Stout and Chocolate Steamed Pudding
    • Pedro Ximeacutenez and Whisky with Vermouth Smoke
    • Fennel Seed and Ginger Hot Chocolate
      • Spring
        • Nettle Soup with Caerphilly
        • St Georgersquos Mushrooms with Asparagus Ribwort Plantain Mushroom Jelly and Apple Jelly
        • Sweet-cure Mackerel with Morels Spelt Soda Bread and Horseradish
        • Asparagus with Toasted Sesame and Hollandaise Sauce
        • Clear Ham Hock Broth with Poached Eggs
        • Caerphilly and Cider Welsh Rabbit
        • Smoked Chipotle Chillies
        • Smoked Roe Deer Loin with Wild Rocket Clamped Carrots Honeyed Walnuts and Wood Sorrel
        • Curd Cheese Cucumber Flat Bean Aniseed and Sesame
        • Crab Salad with New Potatoes Pickled Carrot and Smoked Paprika Mayonnaise
        • Spring Radishes with Anchovy Cregraveme Fraiche
        • Trout with Kelp and Shiitake Mushroom Stock Rice Flat Beans and Sea Kale
        • Goat Meatballs Mash Lovage Butter and Mustard Greens
        • Ox Tongue with Swede Parsley and Cider Vinegar
        • Ox Tongue with Cauliflower Gilliflower and Hazelnuts
        • Salt Marsh Lamb with Tidal Greens
        • Steamed Rabbit Pudding
        • Pork Juniper and Black IPA Pie
        • Pearl Barley with Old Demdike and St Georgersquos Mushroom
        • Rhubarb and Custard
        • Chocolate and Salt Caramel Brownies with Cherry and Elderflower Sauce
        • Elderflower syrup
        • Strawberry and Rose Lemonade Pudding with Saffron and Cider Brandy Custard
        • The Ethicurean Vermouth Botanicals
        • Vermouth
        • Rose Lemonade
        • The Ethicurean Cocktail
        • Negroni
          • Summer
            • Figs Wrapped in Pork Belly with Lavender and Buffalo Mozzarella
            • Caramelised Chicory Labneh and Macerated Strawberry Salad
            • Roasted Tomato and Liquorice Basil Soup
            • Roasted Courgette and Cobnut Soup with Labneh and Ginger Turmeric and Mint Dressing
            • Soused Mackerel Carrot Fennel and Saffron with Gooseberry and Mint Granita
            • Chilled Beetroot Soup Par-cel Walnut Ice Cream and Roasted Cobnut Oil
            • Ewersquos-curd-stuffed Courgette Flowers with Fennel Sherbet
            • Globe Artichokes with Hollandaise Sauce and Sumac
            • Pea Goat Bacon and Lovage Broth
            • Scallops in Puff Pastry with Vermouth and Fennel Cream
            • Pickled Pollack with Flame-roasted Peppers Cucumber Pul Biber Chilli and Water Mint
            • Dorset Blue Vinny and Flame-roasted Peppers with Charred Little Gem
            • John Dory with Morel Mushrooms Flat Beans Haricot Beans and Ham Hock Stock
            • Mussels in Cider with Tarragon
            • Steamed Megrim Sole with Rock Samphire and Sumac-braised Fennel
            • Pickled rock samphire
            • Water Buffalo Fillet with Clear Chicken Stock Tarragon and Salt-baked Baby Beets
            • Barbecued Horse Mackerel with Cobnut Salbitxada Sauce
            • Fennel and Sumac Gravad Trout
            • White Raspberry Loganberry and Ewersquos Yoghurt Terrine with Sweet Cicely Confit
            • Elderflower Sorbet with Fennel Sherbet and Wild Strawberries
            • Pineapple Weed Jelly
            • Elderflower and Lavender Marshmallows
            • Spiced Ginger Beer
            • Summer Elder
            • Raw Rhubarb Smash
            • Double Sloe Gin and Tonic
              • Autumn
                • Goat Bacon with Ox Tongue Nasturtiums and Clarified Ham Broth
                • Wild Mushrooms with Sourdough Toast and Thyme Stichelton Cregraveme Fraicircche
                • Wild Mushroom and Spelt Pressed Terrine with Spinach and Rainbow Chard
                • Swedish Knaumlckebroumld with Cottage Cheese Pickled Beetroot Caraway Beetroot Crisps and Tom Thumb Lettuce
                • Roast Crown Prince Soup with Tandoori Spice Walnut Oil and Crisp Sage Leaves
                • Salt-baked Celeriac Portobello Mushroom and Apple Soup
                • Deep-fried Aubergine with Rose Hip Syrup
                • Pear Native Nape Hazelnut Cardamom and Ewersquos Cheese Salad
                • Preserved Duck Leg Chorizo Butter Bean and Confit Tomato Pot Stew with Yin Yang Beans
                • Wood Pigeon Breasts with Persian Spiced Bulgar Wheat Cucumber Aniseed and Black Cabbage
                • Chicken Mole
                • Venison Cider and Quince Stew with Herbed Butter Dumplings
                • Fish Soup with Spiced Heritage Tomatoes Fennel Seed and English Truffle Oil Toast
                • Slow-braised Goatrsquos Leg with Cider Shallots Lentils and Glazed Carrots
                • Pheasant Kiev with Winter Tarragon and Strawberry Myrtle
                • Rare Roast Sirloin of Beef with Bordelaise Sauce Black Cabbage and Truffle Cauliflower
                • Almond Pear Cardamom and Chocolate Cake
                • Sea Buckthorn Sorbet with Apple and Vanilla Pureacutee Toffee Apple and Caramel Lemon Balm
                • Beetroot Apple and Cobnut Crumble with Roasted White Chocolate Spoom
                • Simple syrups for sorbets and spooms
                • Spoom
                • Roasted White Chocolate Spoom
                • Cherry Spoom
                • Italian Meringue
                • Lordrsquos Lovage
                • Apple Flip
                • The Orchard at Barley Wood
                • Salsify and Ogle Shield Gratin
                • Vincent Castellanorsquos Venison Chorizo
                  • Basics
                  • List of Suppliers
                  • Bibliography
                  • Acknowledgements
                  • Copyright
Page 4: The Ethicurean Cookbook: Recipes, Foods and Spirituous Liquors, from Our Bounteous Walled Gardens in the Several Seasons of the Year

RoastedCourgetteandCobnutSoupwithLabnehandGingerTurmericandMintDressing

SousedMackerelCarrotFennelandSaffronwithGooseberryandMintGranita

ChilledBeetrootSoupPar-celWalnutIceCreamandRoastedCobnutOil

Ewersquos-curd-stuffedCourgetteFlowerswithFennelSherbetGlobeArtichokeswithHollandaiseSauceandSumacPeaGoatBaconandLovageBrothScallopsinPuffPastrywithVermouthandFennelCreamPickledPollackwithFlame-roastedPeppersCucumberPulBiberChilliandWaterMint

DorsetBlueVinnyandFlame-roastedPepperswithCharredLittleGem

JohnDorywithMorelMushroomsFlatBeansHaricotBeansandHamHockStock

MusselsinCiderwithTarragonSteamedMegrimSolewithRockSamphireandSumac-braisedFennel

PickledrocksamphireWaterBuffaloFilletwithClearChickenStockTarragonandSalt-bakedBabyBeets

BarbecuedHorseMackerelwithCobnutSalbitxadaSauceFennelandSumacGravadTroutWhiteRaspberryLoganberryandEwersquosYoghurtTerrinewithSweetCicelyConfit

ElderflowerSorbetwithFennelSherbetandWildStrawberries

PineappleWeedJellyElderflowerandLavenderMarshmallowsSpicedGingerBeerSummerElderRawRhubarbSmashDoubleSloeGinandTonic

Autumn

GoatBaconwithOxTongueNasturtiumsandClarifiedHamBroth

WildMushroomswithSourdoughToastandThymeSticheltonCregravemeFraicircche

WildMushroomandSpeltPressedTerrinewithSpinachandRainbowChard

SwedishKnaumlckebroumldwithCottageCheesePickledBeetrootCarawayBeetrootCrispsandTomThumbLettuce

RoastCrownPrinceSoupwithTandooriSpiceWalnutOilandCrispSageLeaves

Salt-bakedCeleriacPortobelloMushroomandAppleSoupDeep-friedAuberginewithRoseHipSyrupPearNativeNapeHazelnutCardamomandEwersquosCheeseSalad

PreservedDuckLegChorizoButterBeanandConfitTomatoPotStewwithYinYangBeans

WoodPigeonBreastswithPersianSpicedBulgarWheatCucumberAniseedandBlackCabbage

ChickenMoleVenisonCiderandQuinceStewwithHerbedButterDumplings

FishSoupwithSpicedHeritageTomatoesFennelSeedandEnglishTruffleOilToast

Slow-braisedGoatrsquosLegwithCiderShallotsLentilsandGlazedCarrots

PheasantKievwithWinterTarragonandStrawberryMyrtleRareRoastSirloinofBeefwithBordelaiseSauceBlackCabbageandTruffleCauliflower

AlmondPearCardamomandChocolateCakeSeaBuckthornSorbetwithAppleandVanillaPureacuteeToffeeAppleandCaramelLemonBalm

BeetrootAppleandCobnutCrumblewithRoastedWhiteChocolateSpoom

SimplesyrupsforsorbetsandspoomsSpoomRoastedWhiteChocolateSpoomCherrySpoomItalianMeringueLordrsquosLovageAppleFlipTheOrchardatBarleyWoodSalsifyandOgleShieldGratinVincentCastellanorsquosVenisonChorizo

Basics

Listofsuppliers

BibliographyAcknowledgementsCopyright

ListofRecipesAlmondPearCardamomandChocolateCakeAppleFlipAsparaguswithToastedSesameandHollandaiseSauceBarbecuedHorseMackerelwithCobnutSalbitxadaSauceBeefBrisketSlow-roastedinCoffeeSaucewithValorMashBeetrootCarpacciowithHoneyedWalnutsBeetrootAppleandCobnutCrumblewithRoastedWhiteChocolateSpoomCaerphillyandCiderWelshRabbitCaramelisedChicoryLabnehandMaceratedStrawberrySaladCherrySpoomChickenMoleChilledBeetrootSoupPar-celWalnutIceCreamandRoastedCobnutOil

ChocolateandSaltCaramelBrownieswithCherryandElderflowerSauce

ClearHamHockBrothwithPoachedEggsConfitMeatsConfitTomatoeswithRuffleBasilCrabSaladwithNewPotatoesPickledCarrotandSmokedPaprikaMayonnaise

CurdCheeseCucumberFlatBeanAniseedandSesameDeep-friedAuberginewithRoseHipSyrup

DorsetBlueVinnyandFlame-roastedPepperswithCharredLittleGem

DoubleSloeGinandTonicDuckTerrinewithCranberriesandCobnutsEcclesCakeswithDorsetBlueVinnySauceElderflowerandLavenderMarshmallowsElderflowerSorbetwithFennelSherbetandWildStrawberriesElderflowersyrupEwersquos-curd-stuffedCourgetteFlowerswithFennelSherbetFennelandSumacGravadTroutFennelSeedandGingerHotChocolateFigsWrappedinPorkBellywithLavenderandBuffaloMozzarellaFishSoupwithSpicedHeritageTomatoesFennelSeedandEnglishTruffleOilToastGlazedStarAniseCarrotsGlobeArtichokeswithHollandaiseSauceandSumacGoatBaconwithOxTongueNasturtiumsandClarifiedHamBroth

GoatMeatballsMashLovageButterandMustardGreensItalianMeringueJanetrsquosJungleJuiceIcewithCheddar99FlakeJohnDorywithMorelMushroomsFlatBeansHaricotBeansandHamHockStockLambrsquosWoolLordrsquosLovageMilkStoutandChocolateSteamedPudding

MonkfishCheekswithSaffronCauliflowerandAniseedMusselsinCiderwithTarragonNegroniNettleSoupwithCaerphillyOxTonguewithCauliflowerGilliflowerandHazelnutsOxTonguewithSwedeParsleyandCiderVinegarPeaGoatBaconandLovageBrothPearNativeNapeHazelnutCardamomandEwersquosCheeseSaladPearlBarleywithOldDemdikeandStGeorgersquosMushroomPedroXimeacutenezandWhiskywithVermouthSmokePheasantKievwithWinterTarragonandStrawberryMyrtlePickledPollackwithFlame-roastedPeppersCucumberPulBiberChilliandWaterMint

PickledrocksamphirePigeonBreastswithBeetrootPearlBarleyandBordelaiseSaucePineappleWeedJellyPineappleTurmericandGingerGlazedHamwithlsquoPiccalillirsquoPorkJuniperandBlackIPAPiePreservedDuckLegChorizoButterBeanandConfitTomatoPotStewwithYinYangBeansRabbitConfitwithLovageBreadcrumbsRareRoastSirloinofBeefwithBordelaiseSauceBlackCabbageandTruffleCauliflower

RawRhubarbSmashRhubarbandCustardRoastCrownPrinceSoupwithTandooriSpiceWalnutOiland

CrispSageLeavesRoastPartridgewithBreadandCheeseRoastedCourgetteandCobnutSoupwithLabnehandGingerTurmericandMintDressing

RoastedTomatoandLiquoriceBasilSoupRoastedWhiteChocolateSpoomRoseLemonadeSalsifyandOgleShieldGratinSaltMarshLambwithTidalGreensSalt-bakedCeleriacPortobelloMushroomandAppleSoupScallopsinPuffPastrywithVermouthandFennelCreamSeaBuckthornSorbetwithAppleandVanillaPureacuteeToffeeAppleandCaramelLemonBalm

SeaRobinwithFennelButterSauceandHerbedPinkFirsSimplesyrupsforsorbetsandspoomsSlow-braisedGoatrsquosLegwithCiderShallotsLentilsandGlazedCarrots

SmokedChipotleChilliesSmokedRoeDeerLoinwithWildRocketClampedCarrotsHoneyedWalnutsandWoodSorrel

SousedMackerelCarrotFennelandSaffronwithGooseberryandMintGranita

SpicedGingerBeerSpoomSpringRadisheswithAnchovyCregravemeFraiche

StGeorgersquosMushroomswithAsparagusRibwortPlantainMushroomJellyandAppleJelly

SteamedLemonSolewithFondantPinkFirsGoldenBeetrootandNasturtiumRemoulade

SteamedMegrimSolewithRockSamphireandSumac-braisedFennel

SteamedRabbitPuddingStrawberryandRoseLemonadePuddingwithSaffronandCiderBrandyCustard

SummerElderSwedishKnaumlckebroumldwithCottageCheesePickledBeetrootCarawayBeetrootCrispsandTomThumbLettuce

Sweet-cureMackerelwithMorelsSpeltSodaBreadandHorseradishTandoorScallopsCeleriacPureacuteeandPickledRockSamphireTheEthicureanCocktailTheEthicureanVermouthBotanicalsTheOrchardatBarleyWoodTroutwithKelpandShiitakeMushroomStockRiceFlatBeansandSeaKaleVenisonCiderandQuinceStewwithHerbedButterDumplingsVermouthVincentCastellanorsquosVenisonChorizoWaterBuffaloFilletwithClearChickenStockTarragonandSalt-bakedBabyBeets

WhiteRaspberryLoganberryandEwersquosYoghurtTerrinewithSweetCicelyConfit

WildMushroomandSpeltPressedTerrinewithSpinachandRainbowChard

WildMushroomswithSourdoughToastandThymeSticheltonCregravemeFraicircche

WoodPigeonBreastswithPersianSpicedBulgarWheatCucumberAniseedandBlackCabbage

AbouttheBookTheEthicureanphilosophyissimpleeatlocalcelebratenativefoodslivewell

TheEthicureanisquietlychangingthefaceofmodernBritishcookingndashallfromawalledgardenintheheartoftheMendipHillsTheEthicureanCookbookfollowsayearintheirmagnificentkitchenandgardenndashandcelebratesthegreatestfooddrinkandtraditionsofthisfairland

ThecombinationsareelectriccuredroedeerflirtswithwoodsorrelandforagednettlesoupisfortifiedbyayoungCaerphillyHoneyedwalnutsnestleamongstbeetrootcarpacciorichcurdcheeseisbalancedbydelicatecucumberAndthecomfortofpiesandpudndashporkandjuniperpieEcclescakeswithDorsetBlueVinnyndashisenhancedbytheapplejuiceciderandbeerpouredinequalmeasure

With120recipesandayearofseasonalinspirationinphotographsandwordsEthicureanismisanewBritishcookingmanifesto

TheEthicureansareJackAdair-BevanPaucirclaZarateMatthewPenningtonandIainPennington

AbovelefttorightJackMatthewOchoPaucirclaandIain

CookrsquosNotesAllvegetablesarepeeledunlessotherwisespecifiedAlleggsaremediumfree-rangeButterisunsaltedunlessotherwisespecified

ethicureanadjthepursuitoffine-tastingfoodwhilebeingmindfuloftheeffectofonersquosfoodproductionandconsumptionontheenvironment

TheEthicureansitsbelowanovergrownGeorgianestatesometimehauntofWordsworthandColeridgeItsgardensarealabyrinthofrosespergolasandchippedstatuesTherestaurantandkitchenarehousedintwooftheoriginalglasshouseswithinBarleyWoodWalledGardenbuiltforHenryHerbertWillsoftheImperialTobaccoCompanyin1901ThiswastheyearinwhichQueenVictoriatookherfinalbreathOurWalledGardenisfilledwithneatrowsofcabbagesandespaliersofgreengagesandapricotsHundred-year-oldvineshavebulliedtheirwaythroughasmallbrickholeinoneoftheglasshousesCamberedred-brickpathsframeapatchworkgardenofcannellinibeansmarchingTomThumbandaquiltedstatisThegardeniscutinhalfbyayew-linedcorridorinspringlavendergrowsatjusttherightheighttotearoffsmallhandfulsaswewalkupfromthelowerorchardInsummerthepurplemassgiveswaytocampanuladayliliesandhundredsofasterMarkthegardenerbringsustrugsofvegetableseachmorningandthestarchedwhiteflashofachefrsquostuniccanbeseenaroundtheherbbordersjustbeforelunch

BritishseasonalityethicalsourcingofingredientsandattentiontothelocalenvironmentarethefoundationsofourbusinessWearefourfriendsJackAdair-BevanPaucirclaZarateandMatthewandIainPenningtonBetweenuswehaveoverlappingareasofexpertisethatrangefromthepracticalandorganisationalknowledgeneededtorunabusinesstothescienceofcookingandthewildfoodthatgrowsoutsidethewallsofourrestaurantWeareself-taughtandwanttoofferanapproachtoBritishfoodthatisneitherexclusivenorisolatingandonethatisfundamentallyaboutsharingknowledgeandpassion

Sustainabilityhasbecomeabuzzwordinrecentyearsandallanybodycan

SustainabilityhasbecomeabuzzwordinrecentyearsandallanybodycaneverdoisworktowardsamoresustainablewayoflifendashweEthicureansaredoingourbestWetookovertherestaurantin2010overfivedayswecompletedarefitwiththehelpofourfamilyandfriendsknockingdownwallsredecoratingandpausingonlytotakeadecentlunchandsupperonthelongtablesoverlookingtheWringtonValeOnthesixthdayweopenedforbusinessandbeganafullappleseasonpickingpulpingandjuicingWestartedresearchingtheseventyvarietiesofapplethatwenowhadtolookafterinourtwoorchards

FoodandthenarrativesurroundingitisinaconstantstateofevolutionitispoliticalartisticandcompletelydeliciousTheMendipsinSomersetthehomeofTheEthicureanisaplaceonthevergeofsomethingincredibleArtisansfromacrossthecountryaremovingtheirproductionhereCommunityfarmsorchardsandcollaborationsarepoppingupacrossthecountyWearewatchingdaybydayasourfriendscustomersandsuppliersarere-establishingandstrengtheningtheirruralcommunitiesandtakingcontroloftheirfoodproductionWeareseeingandenjoyingtherediscoveryofoldtechniquesandadaptationsforthefuture

FromouropeningdaywechangedourmenuonadailybasisaccordingtowhatwasavailablewecontinuetocelebrateeverysingledayoftheBritishseasonInthisbookwehaverecordednotonlyrecipesbutourrelationshipswithourproducersourlandourlivesandourhistoryndashallofwhichareintricatelyconnectedwiththefoodweeat

Werarelyleavethisbeautifulwalledgardenitisanabsoluteparadise

RecipeList

BeetrootCarpacciowithHoneyedWalnutsDuckTerrinewithCranberriesandCobnuts

TandoorScallopsCeleriacPureacuteeandPickledRockSamphireMonkfishCheekswithSaffronCauliflowerandAniseed

RoastPartridgewithBreadandCheeseLambrsquosWool

JanetrsquosJungleJuiceIcewithCheddar99FlakeRabbitConfitwithLovageBreadcrumbs

ConfitMeatsConfitTomatoeswithRuffleBasil

BeefBrisketSlow-roastedinCoffeeSaucewithValorMashPigeonBreastswithBeetrootPearlBarleyandBordelaiseSauceSteamedLemonSolewithFondantPinkFirsGoldenBeetroot

andNasturtiumRemouladeSeaRobinwithFennelButterSauceandHerbedPinkFirs

PineappleTurmericandGingerGlazedHamwithlsquoPiccalillirsquoGlazedStarAniseCarrots

EcclesCakeswithDorsetBlueVinnySauceMilkStoutandChocolateSteamedPudding

PedroXimeacutenezandWhiskywithVermouthSmokeFennelSeedandGingerHotChocolate

THEREAREACOUPLEofspecialrequirementsfortheWalledGardeninwinterndashfirstalightertodefrostthepadlocksandsecondlyagoodtorchforeveningtripsaroundthegardenunlessthereisafullmoonFrostsintheWringtonValearespectacularTheairhoarthatdecoratesthetreescreatesalandscapethatismoreakintoSiberiathanSomersetInanearly-morningdriftingfogtheviewfromtheglasshouseisdivineDuringourfirstyearatBarleyWoodwehadheavysnowandseveralhoarfrostsandthepathwaythroughthecentreofthegardenlayunderagoodthreeinchesofsnowJackclippedonhisskisandarmedwithtwobamboocanespinchedfromMarkrsquosbeansmanagedtoskirightthroughitMorningtripstothecompostheapatthebottomorchardthereserveoftheluckiestinsummerbecomeatasktobeavoidedbyallofus

ByearlyDecemberwetrytofinishpressingthelastoftheseasonrsquosapplesasworkingintheicyciderbarnisharshElenaPaucirclarsquosmumandPhilJackrsquosdadruntheapplebusinessBothareusedtowarmerclimatesndashMexicoandtheGulfrespectivelyYoursquollfindtheminthebarnclothedinmultiplelayersdebatingwhichvarietiesofapplestoblendTheirfridgesathomeareburstingwithlabelledspecimensTydemanrsquosLateOrangesitsnexttoReverendJamesTheseasonrsquoslastpressingsrequirejugglingthefinalfewtrugsofsweetvarietieswiththelatercookerssuchastheinfamousBramleyandthecloud-texturedBlenheimOrange

Thecoldweatheractsasagentleprodtowardsmorefull-bodiedbutteryfoodanddrinkByDecembercalorificcautionisthrownasideaswemarchtowardstheinevitablefeastandbyChristmaswearetrottingfull-belliedtowardsabsolutegluttonyPartridgesaresynonymouswiththistimeofyearweallknowthesongTheseplumpbirdsvirtuallyflyoutofthekitchenroastedandglazedwithacoatofhawthornjellywithitswild-fruittartness

WinterisachancetodeployallofthosechutneysjamspicklesjelliesliqueursinfusedginsbeerscidersandwinesthathavebeensquirrelledawayduringseasonalglutsItrsquosatimeforexperimentssweetconcoctionssuchasmembrillo-infusedvodkaandvanillaandespressobeanrumOurWalledGardenapricotjamandblackcardamomvodkaatriumphofadrinkwasthesweetproductofabitterdayinJanuary

FromtheNewYearwhileeveryoneelsedetoxesexercisesanddietsinacloudofresolveandperspirationwearepreparingthebiggesteventinourcalendarourannualWassailForustheWassailisafestivalfixduringthecruellestpartofwinterWefeelwehaverecapturedalostpartofourcountryrsquosheritageandrichlyupdateditOnthiscoldeveningweneverfailtoenjoythemagicalritualsofeatingdrinkingandworkingtogether

BytheendofJanuarywearetheonespayingpenanceforouralcoholconsumptionandexcessWorkbeginsorrathercontinuesafteralittlebreakAllthefruittreesareprunedthedividinghedgesthatarematureandreadyforlayingareconfrontedwithbillhooksandaxestheformidablehedgeoutsideourciderbarnisduetobelaidnextyearWeareluckytohavetheoldesthedgingsocietyinthecountrytheWringtonandBurringtonwhichwasformedaftertheEnclosuresActcameintoforceintheearly1800sItstillmeetsregularlyjustdowntheroadTherearedistinctivestylesofhedge-layingthatvaryfromregiontoregionEachstyleisspecifictothelocalclimateandthetypesoftreesandshrubsthatwillgrowinlocalsoilTheareaaroundtheWalledGardenisahedge-layingstrongholdalthoughwesuspectfewpeoplewillhaveheardofourlocalcelebrityUncleFrankahedge-layinglegendfromButcombeAllthemaintenancehastotakeplacebeforethebirdsestablishtheirnestsA

maintenancehastotakeplacebeforethebirdsestablishtheirnestsAcarefullyselectedmixofshrubsandtreeswellplantedwillyieldenoughfruittofeedplentyofhungryhumansandbirdsThehedgeframedinthegiantdoorwaytoourciderbarnreadslikeaninventoryofourlarderatTheEthicureanhawthornsloeswilddamsonsrosehipscrabappleshazelandcobnutsBeforeourresidentrobinhastimetosingforamateandbuildanesttheyewhedgesareclippedofferinganearlyreminderofthegardenrsquoscyclicalorderedstyleandtheimminentarrivalofspring

BeetrootCarpacciowithHoneyedWalnuts

WinterisatestingtimeforeventhemosthardenedproponentofseasonalityAnanonymoussighcansometimesbeheardinthekitchenwhenMarkthegardenercomesinwithyetanotherbasketofbeetrootTheaudaciouspink-and-white-stripedChioggiathecommonredDetroitandtheunimaginativelynamedgoldenbeetrootarefrequentvisitorstoTheEthicureankitchenatthistimeofyearHoweverthechefsrelishtheopportunitytocreateanoriginaldishThis

oneisourplayontheclassicbeefcarpaccioReminiscentofastained-glasswindowitcelebratesthedistinctivetasteofeachofthebeetrootvarietiesthatgrowonourdoorstepFlavourandspiceintertwinewithvibrantsplashesofcolourbrighteningamonochromaticwintryday

SERVES43beetroottoppedandtailed300mlredwinevinegar120gcastersugar1clove3staranise12blackpeppercornsasmallpieceofcinnamonstickahandfulofwintersaladleaves(wesuggestamixtureofmizunawinterpurslanelandcressandrocket)flakyseasaltandblackpepper

FORTHEHONEYEDWALNUTS

frac12tspbutter25gwalnuts1tsprunnyhoney

PutthebeetrootinapanwiththevinegarandhalfthesugarPouroverenoughcoldwatertocoverthebeetrootcompletelythenaddthespicesandbringtotheboilCoverwithalidandcookgentlyforabout40minutesoruntilthereisonlyaslightresistancewhenyouinsertthetipofaknifeinthebeetrootMeanwhilepreparethewalnutsMeltthebutterinasmallpanaddthewalnutsandfryoveramedium-highheatuntillightlycolouredAddthehoneyandtossuntilthewalnutsareevenlycoatedDecantfromthepanintoacooldish

DrainthecookedbeetrootkeepinghalfofthecookingliquorandcoolthemundercoldrunningwaterPourthesavedcookingliquorintoacleanpanandaddtheremainingsugarandapinchofsaltBoiloverahighheatuntilithasreducedbythree-quartersitshouldhaveathicksyrupyconsistencyRemovefromtheheatandleavetocool

PeelthebeetrootandcutthemintoquartersUsingamandolineslicethemwaferthinIfyoudonothaveamandolineputthequarteredbeetrootflat-sidedownandslicelengthwaysasthinlyaspossiblewithaverysharpknife

Toservethecarpaccioarrangethebeetrooton4servingplatesthendrizzleoverthesyrupyliquorAddasprinklingofseasaltandfreshlycrackedblackpepperthenscatterthehoneyedwalnutsandthesaladleavesontop

DuckTerrinewithCranberriesandCobnuts

WeuseAylesbury-crossducksfromMadgettrsquosFarmtomakethisterrineItwasthroughfarmersrsquomarketsthatwebecameawareofthecommendableworkMadgettrsquoshasbeendoingforyearsSituatednearChepstowitwasoriginallyadairyandbeefcattlefarm(andwasevenmentionedintheDomesdayBook)butoverthepastdecadethepoultrybusinesshastakenoffLikeothergreatfamilybusinessestheycaredeeplyaboutwhattheydowhichofcourseisreflectedinthequalityoftheirproduceThisisaveryversatilerecipeandyoucouldeasilysubstitutechickenor

goosefortheduckCarefulweighingoftheingredientsiskeyasyouneedtocompressthemevenlyintothemouldsTheterrinesneedanightintherefrigeratorbeforeservingTheywill

keepwellforseveraldaysbecausetheyaresealedbythegoosefatYouprobablywonrsquotneedtobutteryourtoastbeforeliberallyapplyingtheterrinendashalthoughitisprettytastyifyoudo

MAKES4SMALLTERRINES

210ggoosefat1tspsalt1tspgroundwhitepepperfrac12tspgroundstaranise465gskinnedduckbreastroughlydiced60gdriedcobnuts(orhazelnuts)lightlycrushed60gdriedcranberriessoakedinciderfor30minutesthendrained135gblackcabbage(cavolonero)coarselychoppedandthenblanchedinboilingsaltedwateruntiljusttender(optional)seasaltandblackpepper

Putthegoosefatinaheavy-basedpanoveralowheatuntilmeltedthenaddthesaltpepperandstaranisePlacethedicedduckbreastinthefatandcoverthemixturewithacircleofbakingparchmentCookoveraverylowheatfor30ndash45minutesuntiltheduckiscookedbutstillslightlypinkinside(ameatthermometershouldregister74degCthoughwecookoursto55ndash60degC)Removefromtheheatandleavetocoolatroomtemperature

Takethebreastmeatoutofthecooledgoosefatandputitinabowl(Youcanpourthefatoffthecookingliquorfromtheduckstraintheliquorand

canpourthefatoffthecookingliquorfromtheduckstraintheliquoranduseittoaddflavourtootherdishes)AddthenutsdrainedcranberriesandthecabbageifusingandseasonwellLinefour150mlramekinswithclingfilmandputtheminadishtocatchanyspillagesDividetheduckmixturebetweenthemitshouldcomeslightlyabovetherimsPouroverenoughofthecookingfattofillthegapsallowingittosinkinbeforecheckingthelevelagainCovereachterrinewithclingfilmandthenspikeitwithaknifetipsotheextrafatcanrunawayastheterrineschillPlaceachoppingboardontopandweightdownwith4heavytinsLeaveinthefridgeovernight

Beforeservingdiptheramekinsinhotwaterforabout30secondstoloosentheterrinesandthenturnthemoutontoaboardLeavetocometoroomtemperaturesoalittleofthefatmeltsawaythentransferthemtoservingplatesServewithtoastedsourdoughandRowanJelly(seehere)ifliked

daggerItisreassuringtoknowthatthegreatMrsBeetonwouldhaveapprovedofourchoiceofbreedInherBookofHouseholdManagementshewriteslsquoTheWhiteAylesburyduckisanddeservedlyauniversalfavouriteItssnowyplumageandcomfortablecomportmentmakeitacredittothepoultry-yardwhileitsbroadanddeepbreastanditsamplebackconveytheassurancethatyoursatisfactionwillnotceaseatitsdeathhellipthismemberoftheduckfamilyisbredonanextensivescalehellipintheabodesofthecottagersRoundthewallsoftheliving-roomsandofthebedroomevenarefixedrowsofwoodenboxeslinedwithhayanditisthebusinessofthewifeandchildrentonurseandcomfortthefeatheredlodgerstofeedthelittleducklingsandtotaketheoldonesoutforanairingThisinspiringextractservesasreminderoftheimportanceoffoodprovenanceinVictoriantimeswhenamealwasafamilyprocessthatstretchedbeyondsittingaroundatable

TandoorScallopsCeleriacPureacuteeandPickledRockSamphire

ScallopsareprizedfortheirsweetnesswhichcomesfromthewhitemeatanabductormusclethatcontainsveryhighlevelsofmildlysweetaminoacidWheneatenfreshthetasteisreminiscentofseaweedYoushouldbeabletoorderhand-divedscallopsfromagoodfishmongerInthisdishtheirsweetnuttinessiscomplementedbytheuseofceleriacndashasavouryearthyelementgivenmoregrandeurbybeingpureeedwitharichchickenstockTheflavourisheightenedwithtandoorspicesandpungentIndonesianlongpepperwhichaddthefinalelementstothisfantasticandrelativelysimple

pepperwhichaddthefinalelementstothisfantasticandrelativelysimplestarterSamphireandthesaladleafredfrillworkwelltogetherontheplateforreasonsofbothaestheticsandtastendashthetwoingredientsalmostmirroreachotherandconjureupanimageofthemarinebedIfyouwouldliketoservethescalloproespoachthemfor2minutesinalittlevegetablestockpriortoserving

SERVES416diver-caughtscallopsorangeroesremoved1ndash2tbsprapeseedorvegetableoilahandfulofPickledRockSamphire(seehere)ahandfulofredfrill(orotherwintersaladleaves)apinchoftandoorispicemixapinchofIndonesianlongpepperseasalt

FORTHECELERIACPUREacuteE

350gceleriacpeeledandcutinto1cmcubes95mlbrownchickenstock(seehere)80mlcregravemefraicircchefrac14nutmeg

FirstpreparetheceleriacChooseapanlargeenoughtoholdasteamingbasketandhalffillitwithcoldwaterGratethenutmegintothewaterandbringtotheboilPuttheceleriacinthesteamingbasketandsetitoverthepanCoverandsteamuntiltheceleriacisverysoftTransfertoablenderorfoodprocessoraddthechickenstockandcregravemefraicirccheandblitzuntilsmoothscrapingdownthesidesasneeded(Foranextrasmoothconsistencystrainthepureacuteethroughafinesieveafterblending)Seasonwithsalttotasteandreheatgentlyinapan

SeasonthescallopslightlywithseasaltSetalargeheavy-basedfryingpanoverahighheatforaminuteortwoAddathinfilmofrapeseedorvegetableoiltothehotpanitshouldbegintosmokeverylightlyAddthescallopstothepanoneatatimestartingfromtheoutsideandworkinginaclockwisedirectionspirallingtowardsthecentreBythetimeyouhaveputinyourlastscallopitwillmostlikelybetimetoturnthefirstAninviting

inyourlastscallopitwillmostlikelybetimetoturnthefirstAninvitinggoldencrustshouldhaveformedontheundersideIfitisstillalittlepaleleaveforafurther30secondsTurnoverallthescallopsinorderfollowingtheclockwisespiralyoumadeWhenyoureachthecentrereturntothebeginningandtakeoutthescallopsinordercheckingthattheundersidehascolouredtooSetasidetorestonawarmplate

PlaceaspoonfulofceleriacpureacuteeoneachservingplatePlace4scallopsontopofthepureacuteethendecoratewiththepickledrocksamphireredfrillalightdustingoftandoorispiceandasmallpinchoflongpepper

SCALLOPS

AswewritethesustainableandenvironmentallybenignpracticeofdivingforscallopsisunderthreatfromEuropeanlegislationInanattempttocontrolthetoxinlevelsofscallopstheEUhassettheselevelsextremelylowThismeansthatthetestcanonlybepassedifthescallopisshuckedpriortosaleandthisishavingaseriousimpactonthelivelihoodofdiversifnottheentiredivedscallopindustryTrawlingforscallopsdiscardingtheshellsandthepartsdeemedunfitthenfreezingthemeatandroeishigh-volumestuffScallopdiverscannotkeepupItrsquosadoublewhammyandthesnappingandclosingshellofalivescalloponceahallmarkofcarefulfishingisfastdisappearing

TheresultisthatscallopsarenowmorelikelytobefishedbydredgetrawlingwhichistheequivalentofploughingaredtractorthroughaJapanesepeacegardenScallopdiverswitnesstheseabedatfirsthandTheyproactivelymovescallopsndashmostimportantlytheyoungspecimensndashfromthepathsoftrawlerstolsquochuckypatchesrsquoThesearesafeareaswheretheconditionsarebetterforthemtoflourishastheyareallowedtospawnenoughtimesbeforetheyareharvestedThismethodoffishingisfundamentalinallowingstockstobereplenishedforthefutureGuyGrieveandhisfamilychosethetranquilandimmaculately

GuyGrieveandhisfamilychosethetranquilandimmaculatelycleanwatersoftheIsleofMulltosetupasustainableshellfishcompanyItpledgestosupportfishermenwhousesustainablemethodsinthehopethattheycancontributetowardstherecoveryofourseasTheawardsrollinforthiscompanyandwearepleasedtobeinsupport

MONKFISH

MonkfisharegreatmastersofdisguiseTheirenormousslimyheadandbodyserveaseffectivecamouflageontheseabedLookingakintoarocktheyattractpreythroughtheuseofadanglinglurefromtheheadThisabilitytoblendintotheirsurroundingscoupledwiththeirdistinctlackofgoodlooksmeantthattheywerenotpopularforeatingenablingthemtothriveinBritishwatersformanyyearsEventuallytheirsuperb-tastingmeatwasdiscoveredbyhungryhumanswhichsadlyresultedinfisheriesadoptingbeam-trawlingmethodstomeetthehighdemandInevitablythisledtoadeclineinnumbersThespeciesisnowrecoveringbutwewouldstillrecommendthatyousourcethemfromfishmongerssupportingsustainablefishingmethods

MonkfishCheekswithSaffronCauliflowerandAniseed

ThismagnificentdishcontainssomeveryfragrantspicesthattogethercreateasymphonyofflavoursWearefortunatetobeabletobuymonkfishcheeksdirectfromthefishermenviaKernowsashimiafishingcompanyinCornwallThisistheonlywaywecanguaranteethatourfishareeither

CornwallThisistheonlywaywecanguaranteethatourfishareeitherline-caughtorfromstaticnetsKernowsashimirsquosfleetdoesnotdredge-netanyofitscatchaprocessthatisharmfultothemarineecosystemMonkfishheadsareoftendiscardedatseaastheyareconsideredanugly

fishThiswastesaparticularlytastymorselintheformofthecheeksbutKernowsashimiishappytoobligeandyourlocalfishmongershouldbeabletogetholdofthemtooThecheeksareagooddealcheaperthanthetailwhichhaslongsincemadeitsepithetoflsquopoormanrsquoslobsterrsquoredundantThisanglingfishisarealbrutebutthemeatisexceptionalanditsfirmtextureiswhatmakesthisdishsogoodSaffronmakesasplendidcompaniontomonkfishwithitsionichintsof

seaairandfragranceoffishingportsMarkthegardenerhasbeengrowingthesaffroncrocusforafewyearsbutitisalabourofloveInautumntheflowersproducethreestrandseachyetunfortunatelyforMarktheydonotallbloomatthesametimeHehastoscrutiniseeveryflowertocheckwhethertheyarereadytopicksometimestheyareleftfortoolongandthestrandsareblownaway

SERVES4ndash6500gmonkfishcheeksrinsedandpatteddry12saffronstrandsfrac14vanillapodfrac12cauliflowertrimmedandsplitintofloretsstalkroughlychopped1tspgroundcardamom25mldoublecreamalittlegroundnutorrapeseedoil50gwinterpurslane(orotherwintersaladleaves)apinchofgroundmace

apinchofgroundmace4ndash6unsmokedstreakybaconrasherscookedtogarnish(optional)seasalt

FORTHEANISEDRESSING

40mlcidervinegarfrac12tspdriedaniseed(orgroundfennelseed)4tbsprapeseedoil1tspsmoothDijonmustardapinchofsalt

FirstmakethedressingHeatthecidervinegarinapanforafewminutesoveramediumheatRemoveaddtheaniseedandallowtocooltoroomtemperatureStrainthevinegarintoabowladdtheoilmustardandsaltandwhisktocombineTastetochecktheseasoningandaddalittlemoremustardifitneedsit

PutthemonkfishcheeksinabowlwiththesaffronMixtodispersetheyellowsaffronandsetaside

SlitthevanillapodopenlengthwaysscrapeouttheseedsandsetasidePlacethepodinapanofwaterthatwilltakeasteamerbasketandbringtoasimmerPutthecauliflowerstalkinthebasketplaceoverthewaterthencoverandsteamuntilverysoftThismaytake25minutesMeanwhileaddthecardamomtoaseparatepanofwaterandsteamthecauliflowerfloretsoveritfor10ndash15minutesuntiltenderRemoveandsetaside

WhenyouaresatisfiedthatthecauliflowerstalkiswellcookedtransferittoablenderandaddthecreamandsomesalttotasteBlendstoppingtoscrapedownthesidesoftheblenderwithaspatulauntilverysmoothAnyremaininglumpscanberemovedbypassingthepureacuteethroughafinesieveStirthevanillaseedsthroughthepureacuteeItcomestolifeatthismomentbecomingscentedandspeckledKeepwarmwhileyouassembletherestofthedish

Tocookthemonkfishheatalargeheavy-basednon-stickfryingpanoveramediumheatItwilltakeagoodfewminutestowarmthroughevenlysoresisttheurgetocookonituntilitradiatesheatAddenoughoiltothenow

resisttheurgetocookonituntilitradiatesheatAddenoughoiltothenowgoldenfishtocoatitlightlyandseasonwithsaltAddthecheekstothepanandcookfor5minutesoneachsideuntillightlycolouredandjustcookedthroughEnsurethatthefishiscolouringbutnotburningandadjusttheheatifneedsbeRemovethepanfromtheheatThefishcanrestintheheatofthepanwhileyouassemblethedish

ToservetossthewinterpurslanewiththeanisedressingSpoonthecauliflowerpureacuteeonto4servingplatesalongwiththefloretsandstackthefishalongsidewithapileofsaladleavesDustwithalittlegroundmaceandiflikedtopwiththecrispbaconrashers

daggerBritainhasahistoryofsaffroncultivationinthefieldsofNorfolkandSuffolkCornwallalsohadasaffron-growingindustryuntilthenineteenthcenturyandyoucanstillbuyCornishsaffroncaketodayThereisacommercialsaffronfarminNorfolkbutnotsurprisinglytheyregularlyselloutbeforethenextseasonevenbegins

RoastPartridgewithBreadandCheese

TherearetwocommonspeciesofpartridgeinBritainthenativegreyandtheFrenchred-leggedThenativebirdisararitythesedaysanditsFrenchrelativeistheonemostofuswillencounterAtaquickglancethepartridgelooksremarkablylikeaplumpmonocledgentndashanillusionthatisquicklyshatteredwhenitfleesinarapidscuttlepreferringtorunratherthanflyEscapedbirdsfromnearbyshootsregularlyappeararoundourciderbarn

andratherironicallygiventhisrecipeunderourhawthornhedgeWethinkpartridgesaretheperfectsizeforthehungrycookItisworth

followingtherulelsquoroasttheyoungpottherestrsquondashasomewhatbrutalmantrabutveryusefulnonethelessOlderbirdsarewonderfulinstewsandcasserolesslowcookeduntilthemeatistenderAyoungpartridgestillhasaslightlypliablebeakandclawsanditsbreastbonewillbesmallerthanthatofanolderbirdWenormallyhangpartridgeforfivedaysorsoinacooldryplaceThemixofflavoursandtexturesinthisrecipemightappear

overcomplicatedbuttheresultistremendousItscreationwasgreetedwithnothinglessthancomicair-punchinginthekitchenTheplumpbirdsitsonbreadsaucefragrantwithitsgentlehintofcloveThefondantpotatoesandcavoloneroprovidebutterandwelcomeacidityrespectivelyThehawthornjellyiscleansweetandtartflecksofOgleshieldcheesemarrywellwiththeflavourofclovesandthesweetnessofthehawthornOgleshieldcheeseismadeinSomersetbyJamieMontgomeryusingunpasteurisedmilkfromasmallherdofJerseysHewasheshistrucklesleavingacheesethatisverylikeracletteonlybetterThisdishisbestenjoyedwithaglassofourhouseVermouth(seehere)

ThebotanicalsinthedrinkgreetthecloveinthebreadsaucelikeanoldfriendwhilethecaramelinthehawthornjellymatchestheinitialsweetnessperfectlyTheadditionoforangetothisrecipecameaftertastingthevermouthwithwhatwethoughtwasthefinalversionHavingabloodorangehandyMatthewlayeredhawthornjellybreadsaucepartridgecheeseandapinchoforangezestinaspoonforeachofusandwealltookitinturnstoswigatthevermouthTheflavourcombinationsparkedimmediately(weshouldconfessthatthenegronicocktailisafavouritehereatBarleyWood)

SERVES44red-leggedpartridgesadrizzleofrapeseedoil4bayleaves4slicesofsourdoughbreadHawthornJelly(seehere)forbrushingandtoserve100gOgleshieldCheeseorotherraclette-stylecheeseofthehighestorderfinelyshaved

zestof1bloodorange(orordinaryorange)FondantPinkFirPotatoes(seehere)toserveseasaltandblackpepper

FORTHEBRININGSOLUTION

15litreswater90gseasalt2tbspjuniperberries4cloves2tspcorianderseeds1tspblackpeppercorns

FORTHEBREADSAUCE

300mlmilk2tbspdoublecream60gyellowonionroughlychopped2goodpinchesofgroundcloves1bayleaffrac12tspEnglishmustardfrac12tspsalt

75gstalebreadcutinto25cmcubes

FORTHECAVOLONERO

200gblackcabbage(cavolonero)orredkaleroughlychoppedadrizzleofrapeseedoil1tbspcidervinegar

PutalltheingredientsforthebrineinapanandbringtotheboilstirringtodissolvethesaltLeavetocoolandthenchillPlacethepartridgesinthechilledbriningsolutionmakingsuretheyarecompletelysubmergedandleavetheminthefridgefor1frac14hours

DrainthebirdsanddiscardthebrinePatthemdryonkitchenpaperandsetaside(Whileweareonthesubjectofchillingthevermouthoughttobeinthefridgebynow)TomakethebreadsauceputalltheingredientsexceptthebreadinasaucepanandbringtoasimmerCookgentlyfor10ndash15minutesuntiltheonioniscompletelysoftRemovethebayleafandclovestransferthemixturetoablenderandblitzuntiltheonionisincorporatedintothemilkAddthebreadandallowthebreadtosoakforacoupleofminutesbeforeblitzinguntilsmoothTasteandaddmoreseasoningifnecessaryForaverysmoothbreadsaucepassitthroughafinesievegentlypressingwiththebackofasmallladleKeepwarmuntilreadytoserve

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6LightlycoatthepartridgesinoilthenseasonwithsaltandpepperPlaceabayleafinthecavityofeachbirdandputthemonabakingtrayrestingeachoneonasliceofthebreadRoastintheovenfor12ndash15minutesuntillightlycolouredndashtheyshouldstillbepinkinsideBrushalightglazeofhawthornjellyoverthebirdsandreturnthemtotheovenfor3minutesLeavethebirdstorestinawarmplacefor10minutesbeforeserving

ForthecavoloneroheatafryingpanandaddafilmofoilAddthecabbageandseasonwithseasaltCookoveramedium-highheattossingregularlytopreventscorchinguntiltheleavesstarttowiltAddthecidervinegarandcookbrieflyuntilevaporatedRemovethecabbagefromthepanandsetaside

ToassemblethedishspoonsomebreadsauceontoeachservingplateFlake

ToassemblethedishspoonsomebreadsauceontoeachservingplateFlakeovershavingsoftheOgleshieldtheywillmeltastheylandonthesaucePlacethebirdsontopthenaddthecavoloneroalongwithdollopsofhawthornjellyScatterovertheorangezestandservewiththefondantpotatoesAdmireyourdinnerfornolongerthanittakestopourthevermouthtableside

WASSAIL

OurannualWassailtakesplaceinearlyJanuaryTheCeltsviewedthistimeofyearasthegatewayfromdarknesstolightwhenallofnatureawakesAsrecentlyastheearlytwentiethcenturywholevillagesndasheldersandinfantsalikendashwouldcongregateintheorchardsandsingshoutandbangoutroughmusiconpotsandpanstowakethetreespiritsfromtheirwinterslumberandwardofftheevilspiritsthatmightharmthetreesrsquofertilityItwasachancetothrowasidetheacceptedhierarchiesandasenseofchaosprevailedCentraltothiseventwastheWassailcupacommunaldrinkofmulledciderandspicethatwaspassedfromhandtohandtotoasttheappletreeOnedrinkthatwerituallypassaroundwhenwewassailisLambrsquosWool(seehere)

LambrsquosWool

WassailisacuriouseveningatBarleyWoodamixoffoodmusicfireandgnarledappletreesOnedrinkthatwealwaysserveatWassailisaconcoctioncalledlambrsquoswoolndasharichsmoothcombinationofaleapplesandspicesthatpre-datesandoutstripsmulledciderandisperfectforcoldoutdooreveningsThisdrinklikemanyrecipesthathavebeenpasseddownandaroundhas

amistyparentagebutthenameseemstooriginatefromtheCelticlamhrsquossuilmeaninghandandeyeWecanonlyimaginethatthisalludestotheco-ordinationyouwillneedtomakethisdrinkitsfrothytoplooksjustlikelambrsquoswool

SERVES46largeBlenheimOrangeapples(orBramleys)coredandleftwhole15litresBoxSteamBreweryDarkandHandsomeorotherdarkbeer250gdemerarasugarfrac12nutmeggrated1thumb-sizedpieceoffreshgingerpeeledandfinelysliced1cinnamonstick1staranise

Heattheovento160degCGasMark3Placetheapplesonabakingsheetandbakefor1houroruntilsoftRemoveandleavetocool

PutthebeeranddemerarasugarinadeeppanandbringtoasimmerstirringtodissolvethesugarAddthespicesandsimmerfor10minutesSqueezetheapplefleshfromtheskinsandpassitthroughafinesieveRemovethespicesfromthebeerthenwhiskintheapplepulpoverahighheatBringtotheboilstirringallthetimeThehardwhiskingwillcreatethewoollytoponthelambrsquoswool

ServeinglassessilvertankardsorthecommunalWassailcupndashifyouhaveone

ForustheWassailisachancetocelebratethediversityofourorchardanacknowledgementofthemagicofapplesarebellionagainstthecolddarkdepthsofwinterItisacrucialpartofourrelationshipwiththelandandwefeelitisimportanttoinvolveandengageeveryonecitydwellersandcountryfolkalikewiththeseasonsForthatreasonwehaveendedupwithabeautifulandcompletelymadfestivalthatcentresonfoodfriendshipandhappinessRestoringthisancienttraditiontoBarleyWoodhasbeenagreatsuccesswithhundredsoflocalsandBristoliansjoininguseachyearItwasourfriendsandartisancheesemakersTimandAngelaofHomewoodCheeseswhoguidedusthroughourfirstWassailWassailnightiswithoutfailoneofthecoldestnightsoftheyearatthe

WalledGardenThefrostformssilentlyovertheorchardsandvegetablepatchesAtfirstwedonrsquotnoticeitTorchbearersleadtheWassailprocessiontakingustotheoldesttreeintheorchardItisthenthatwelookaroundandrealisewearesurroundedbyshimmeringiceThentheceremonybegins

realisewearesurroundedbyshimmeringiceThentheceremonybegins

JanetrsquosJungleJuiceIcewithCheddar99Flake

Weareveryfortunatetobesituatedrightinthemiddleofoneofthemostprominentcider-producingareasinSomersetWehaveagreatnumberofso-calledciderapplesinourorchardandhavehadafairshotatmakingourownciderThebestresultshavecomefromusingoneofourfavouritevarietiesMorganSweetDespiteafewgoodattemptsthoughwecanhonestlysaythatweareyet

tomatchtheciderproducedbyWestCroftinBrentKnollSomersetItisresponsibleforthedelectablebeverageaptlynamedJanetrsquosJungleJuiceoraswelazilycallitJJJThiscloudyciderhasprovedextremelypopularatour

welazilycallitJJJThiscloudyciderhasprovedextremelypopularatourannualWassailItismadefromtraditionalEnglishciderapplescollectedfromWestCroftrsquosownorchardwheremanyofthetreespre-datetheFirstWorldWarTheyarealltraditionalSomersetciderapplesKingstonBlackMorganSweetSheeprsquosNoseBrownSnoutChiselJerseyYarlingtonMillDabinettandMichelinWestCroftdoesnotaddsugartomakeJJJstrongerandthenwateritdownasmanycidermakersdoInsteaditismadefrom100percentcider-applejuiceWerarelyhaveanyleftbytheendofWassaileveningwhichiswhywealwayskeepbackasupplylsquoforstaffrsquoIthelpsfocusthemindwhenalltheguestshaveleftandwearefacedwithamajorclear-upintheearlyhoursofthemorningWecameupwiththisfrozendessertintheweekfollowingourfirst

WassailItseekstoencapsulatesomeofthemainelementsofWassaileveningallowingustocontinuethefestivitiesforthatlittlebitlongeralbeitinamorerefinedandsubduedmanner

SERVES6ndash81litreJanetrsquosJungleJuice(orgoodroughdryscrumpycider)60gcastersugar65mlciderbrandy150gKeenrsquosCheddarcuttorectangularlsquo99rsquoflakeshapesmintleavespreferablyappleminttogarnish

PutashallowmetaltrayinthefreezertochillCombinethecidersugarandciderbrandyinabowlandstiruntilthesugardissolvesPourthemixtureintothechilledtrayandplaceinthefreezerLeaveuntilitisbeginningtofreezearoundtheedgesandthenstirthoroughlyEvery30minutesorsostirwithaforkcrushinganylumpsuntiltheiceisfirmbutnotfrozensolidndashthiswilltakeabout3hoursTransfertoacontainerwithalidandstoreinthefreezer

ServetheiceinteacupsorglasseswiththeCheddarlsquoflakesrsquoaddedgarnishedwithmintleaves

RabbitConfitwithLovageBreadcrumbs

Makingaconfitorcookingslowlyinfatisatraditionalwayofpreservingmeat(seehere)AttheWalledGardenwedoitprimarilyinautumntopreservethelegsofthegamethatcomesinThiscarriesusthroughuntilwinterwhenproduceismorescarceShortlyafterwearrivedattheWalledGardenwediscoveredtoour

dismaythattherewasnolovagegrowingthereSoMarkplantedlovageseedsalongthewestwallinthealreadydiverseherbgardenandwewaitedbuttheplantsfailedtoappearWesoonfoundoutthatlikeallgoodthingslovageneedstimetodevelopForayearMatthewharvesteditfromtheplantoverrunninghisowngardenathomeandbroughtitintoservicetherestaurantThisplanthasbeenuprootedduringtwohousemovesndashaprocessthatleftMatthewrsquoshandsreekingoflovageforaweekafterwardsLovageisveryversatileandeasytogrowonceestablishedsodogiveita

goTheseedsarefullofcharacterandflavourandcanbedriedandpreservedwhiletheleavesaddanewdimensiontosaladsandstocksThisrecipeisanidealwaytousethevaluableseedswhichhavecelerytonesthatmatchthesweetrabbitfleshndashifyoudonrsquothaveanylovageseedsyoucouldtryceleryseedsinsteadMakingtherabbitintoaconfitkeepsthesometimes-dryfleshchin-drippinglyjuicyForperfectlycrispbreadcrumbsyouneedtothinkintermsofevendryingratherthantoastingFollowthemethodbelowforsuccesseverytime

SERVES42ConfitRabbits(seehere)150gstalebreadcutinto25cmcubes15glovageseedsroughlycrushedinapestleandmortar2eggyolkslightlybeatentoastedsourdoughbreadtoservebakedonions(seemethod)toservemixedsaladleavestoserveDarkPlumChutney(seehere)toserveHeattheovento180degCGasMark4Ifyouhavemadetheconfitrabbitinadvancewarmthejarinapanof

lightlysimmeringwatersothefatbecomesliquidthenremovethelegsandlaythemonabakingtray

BlitzthebreadandlovageseedstogetherinafoodprocessortomakefinebreadcrumbsSpreadthecrumbsevenlyonabakingtrayandplaceintheovenCookfor6ndash10minutesremovingthetrayevery2minutesandturningthecrumbsItwillquicklybecomeapparentwhereyourovenhashotspotsandcoolerareasContinueuntilthecrumbsareevenlydriedandlightlycoloured

BrushtherabbitwiththebeateneggyolkandcoatwiththepungentbreadcrumbsPlaceintheovenfor8minutesthenremoveandleavetorestfor2minutes

Servetherabbitwithlightlytoastedsourdoughbreadandifyoulikesomebakedonions(placewholeskin-ononionsintheovenforanhouruntiltender)saladleavesandDarkPlumChutney

CONFIT

ThistechniqueissoinvaluablesosimplesoversatileandonceyoumasterittherewillalwaysbesomethingrobustandepicureaninthefridgetoheatupatthelastminuteinanemergencyConfitisaFrenchtechniquethatwasdevelopedbeforerefrigerationandtranslatesaslsquopreservedrsquoAlongsidecuringsmokinganddryingitisinvaluabletoanyonewhowantstoeatwiththeseasonsGamecanbepreservedthroughthewintermonthswellintospringToughercutssuchasducklegsbenefitfromthelongcookingprocesswhilethefatinwhichtheyarecookedcanbeusedafterwardsAlayerofporkfatsealsthetopcompletelyandconfitcanbestoredinacoolcellarwithnoriskofspoilageThefatcanalsobereusedagainandagainreheatedwithalittlemoresaltaddedContainerssuchastall-sidedpreservingjarscanningjarsandKilnersarebesttoreheatjustwarmthejarinapanoflightlysimmeringwatertoloosenthefatremovetheducklegsandbakeintheovenfor8ndash10minutesIfyoursquoreseriousaboutyourconfitasmallinvestmentofthirtyquidcan

buyahomevacuumsealerWrappedinpolythenebagsmeatneedsonlyatablespoonoffatarounditandtheairissuckedoutofthepackagingThisrecreatesthesameairlessenvironmentasthatofthefatstoragemethodabovewhilerequiringlessspaceinthefridgeandlessoftherawingredientSaltandspicesareusedfirsttodrawmoisturefromthemeatFollowthe

spiceguidebelowforsuggestedseasoningsbutdotryyourownblendsTheweightofsaltistheoneconstanttoadheretosetat4gperlegscaleaccordingtothisBlendorcrushthesaltsandspicestogetherleavingthewoodybayleaveswholeCoveryourchosencutsinthissaltmixtureforaminimumof12andmaximumof36hoursWashthemeatundercoldwatertoremovetheresidualsaltandherbsPlaceaboutthreekilosofgoosefatinatall-sidedovenproofpanHeatthefattoloosenitandlaythelegsinitAddmorefatifneededasthelegsneedtobefullysubmergedSettheovento90degC(orthelowestpossibleovensetting)andcookfor5ndash6hoursTheoilshouldnrsquotbubbleatthistemperaturesoturndownthetemperaturebyfivedegreesifthatrsquoshappening

Oppositeareourrecommendedquantitiesfordifferenttypesofmeatusing

OppositeareourrecommendedquantitiesfordifferenttypesofmeatusingthecookinginstructionsgivenaboveWehavealsogivenarecipeforconfittomatoesasthiscookingmethodconcentratestheflavoursinspectacularfashion

ConfitMeats

FORCONFITDUCK

3kggoosefat12ducklegs48gfineseasalt12gstaranise6gblackpeppercorns3gclovepowder6gfennelseeds6bayleaves

FORCONFITCHICKEN

3kggoosefat12chickenlegs48gfineseasalt12gjuniperberries6gblackpepper3gclovepowder6bayleaves

FORCONFITRABBIT

frontandhindlegsfrom4rabbits3kggoosefat48gsalt12glovageseeds6gblackpeppercorns

3gfennelseeds8driedlavenderflowers6bayleaves

ConfitTomatoeswithRuffleBasil

TomatoesareblimminrsquomarvellouswhencookedlikethisAlthoughnotsubmergedinfattheyarecookedoveralayerofrapeseedoilwithalittlemoredrizzledoverthemessentiallypreservingthemwithfat

6tomatoesrapeseedoilbasilorthymeseasalt

Preheattheovento120degCGasMarkfrac12

CutacrossinthebottomofthetomatoesanddropthemintosimmeringwaterforacoupleofminutesRemovewithaslottedspoonandpeelofftheskinsQuarterthetomatoesscoopoutthefleshandseeds(youcanretaintheseformakingtomatoessenceseebelow)andyouareleftwithtomatofleshshards

LineabakingsheetwithfoilBrushwithrapeseedoilandplacethetomatoesontopDustwithsaltandyourchosenherbPlaceintheovenfor90minutesCheckthemattheendofthistimeandturnthemovertheyneedtobemostlydrybutstillpliableReturntotheovenforafurther10minutesifneedsbe

TomaketomatoessenceplacetheseedsinafinesieveandsquashthroughwithaspoonPlacetheliquidoveralow-mediumheattoboilslowlyitwillreduceandreachtheconsistencyofpassataAddapinchofsaltandsugartothisintenselyflavouredsavourysauceUseasagarnishforanyfoodthatpairswithtomato

BeefBrisketSlow-roastedinCoffeeSaucewithValorMash

UsingthehumblercutsofmeatisanEthicureanprerequisiteBrisketisarelativelyinexpensivecutallowingustomaximisethebeastrsquosworthandminimiseourcostswhileeatingexceptionallywellAskyourbutchertoboneandrollitwithallitslovelycollagenandfatintactCollagenwillonlybreakdownataround70degCsobrisketneedsalonggentlecookAmeatthermometerwillhelpnoendinperfectingthisroastMoistureisalsovitalandthiscreatesampleopportunityforseasoningwithalesandsaucesTheroastedsmokyrichnessofcoffeemakesitoneofbeefrsquosclosestyet

largelyoverlookedalliesOurcoffeesupplierisExtractrunbythreeenthusiastswhoroastalloftheircoffeeinavintage1955cast-ironProbatroasterSamDavidandMarkrebuiltandconditionedthisfinecontraptionthemselvesanditlooksasifitcouldhavebeenbuiltbyWallaceandGromitWeregularlytakeourstafftoExtracttoseetheentireprocessfromrawbeantocupandtoloseafewhoursinconversationwithexperts

SERVES415kgbeefbrisketrolledandtiedalittleoilasmallbunchofthymeseasalt

FORTHECOFFEESAUCE

140gtomatopureacutee500mlwater100mlespressocoffee2tbspcidervinegarfrac12tspsmokedpaprika1tbsppaprika1tspgroundcumin1chipotlechillideseededandcrushed

FORTHEVALORPOTATOMASH

15kgValorpotatoes(DesireeRemarkaandKingEdwardalsoworkwell)peeledandcutintoeven-sizedchunks125mlmilk

125gbutter

Heattheovento220degCGasMark7RubthebrisketwithoilandsprinklethethymeleavesoverPlaceitinashallowroastingtrayandroastfor30minutesuntilcolouredslightlyRemovefromtheovenandlowerthetemperatureto140degCGasMark1

MeanwhilemixallthesauceingredientstogetherTransferthebriskettoadeeproastingtinandpouroverthesauceCoverthetintightlywithfoilusing2layersifnecessarytocreateatightsealReturntotheovenandcookforabout4hoursuntilverytenderifyouhaveameatthermometeritshouldregister70degC

ForthemashputthepotatoesinapanofcoldwaterwithatablespoonofsaltandbringthemveryslowlytoasimmerCookuntilverysoftbutnotfallingapartDrainthroughacolanderplacethecolanderoverthepanandreturnthepantotheswitched-offhobndashtheresidualheatfromthecookerwillallowthepotatoestosteamdryTheycanbeleftfor10minutesorsowhileyouheatthemilkandbutter

Placethemilkandbutterinapanwithfrac12teaspoonofsaltandheatgentlyuntilthebutterhasmeltedPassthepotatoesthroughapotatoricerintothewarmedbutterandmilk(apotatoricerisaninvaluabletoolforcreatinglighteven-texturedmashonceyoursquovetriedoneyoursquollwonderwhyyouevermademashanyotherway)Stirtocombinethentastetodecidewhetheryouwouldpreferalittlemoresalt

Whenthebeefisreadyremovefromtheovenandleavetorestforabout15minutesbeforecarvingServewiththemash

PigeonBreastswithBeetrootPearlBarleyandBordelaiseSauce

TheironyofservingpigeonandpearlbarleytogetherisnotlostonmanyofourcustomersparticularlythefarmerswhoeatwithusTheyhaveseenmanyagreedywoodpigeonfeastingontheirbarleycropBordelaisesauceisaslowlyreducedmixofstockandredwineWeliketouseDetroitbeetrootwiththepearlbarleyasitcontainsthemostmoleculesofgeosminthesmellthatwerecogniseasmoistsoil

SERVES44woodpigeonbreastsremovedandskinned(savethecarcassestouseforstockifyoulike)

alittleoil4largehandfulsofkalelargestalksremovedaknobofbutterseasaltandblackpeppersmokedsalttoserve(optional)

FORTHEBEETROOTPEARLBARLEY

300gpearlbarley1mediumbeetrootpeeledandcutinto1cmcubes200mlbrownchickenstock(seehere)FORTHEBORDELAISESAUCE

400mlredwine35gshallotsfinelychopped60gcarrotsfinelychopped40gmushroomsfinelychopped1tbspchoppedparsley2sprigsofthyme8peppercorns1bayleaf500mlbeefstock(seehere)

Rinsethepearlbarleyinasieveundercoldrunningwaterforafewminutes

RinsethepearlbarleyinasieveundercoldrunningwaterforafewminutestoremoveexcessstarchPlaceinasaucepancoverwithcoldwaterandbringtotheboilDrainandrinseundercoldrunningwateragainReturnthebarleytothepanandcovergenerouslywithwaterBringtotheboilreducetheheatandsimmerfor15minutesAddthebeetrootandcookfor20ndash30minutesuntilthebeetrootisaldenteandthebarleytenderDrainandreturnthebarleyandbeetroottothepanAddthechickenstockandcookoveramediumheatfor5ndash10minutesstirringregularlyuntilthebarleyhasabsorbedthestockandisglazedinappearanceSeasonwithsalttotaste

MeanwhilemakethebordelaisesaucePutalltheingredientsexceptthebeefstockinasaucepanandbringtoasimmerCookuntiltheliquidhasreducedtoabout2tablespoonsAddthestockandsimmerfor10ndash15minutesthenstrainintoapanCookoveramediumheatuntilthesaucelightlycoatsthebackofaspoonSeasonwithsalttotaste

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6LightlyoilthepigeonbreastsandseasononbothsidesPlacealargeovenprooffryingpanoverahighheatOncethepanissmokinghotaddathinfilmofoilPlacethepigeonbreastsinthepanskinned-sidedownLeavefor15secondsoruntillightlybrownedunderneaththenturnthemovergentlypressdownwithafishsliceandtransferthepantotheovenforabout3minutesthemeatshouldstillgivealittlewhenyoupressitwithafingerRemoveandtransfertoawarmplatetorestfor10minutesMeanwhilecookthekaleinalargepanofboilingsaltedwateruntiltender(nomorethan45seconds)Drainwellbeingsuretostrainoffasmuchliquidaspossibleandtosswiththeknobofbutter

Spoonthebarleyonto4servingplatesandarrangethekalearounditSliceeachpigeonbreastinto3andplaceontopPourthesauceoverandsprinklewithalittlesaltorsmokedsalt

SteamedLemonSolewithFondantPinkFirsGoldenBeetrootandNasturtiumRemoulade

ThedelicatefleshandsubtleflavouroflemonsolearebestpreservedbysteamingInanattempttoprotecttheyoungerfishandpreventdepletionofthespeciesCornwallhasenforcedabyelawthatonlylemonsolelongerthan25cmcanbefishedTherearenosuchrestrictionsintheEUsoyoushouldtryasfaraspossibletobuysolethathavebeenfishedsustainablyWheneveryoubuyfishitrsquosworthcheckingtheMarineConservationSocietyrsquosonlineguidetoseafood(wwwfishonlineorg)whichratesthesustainabilityofeachspeciesonascaleofonetofiveWehadforawhilebeendebatingwhatwerethebestaccompaniments

tofishwithallofusagreeingthatcapersfeaturedhighonthelistUnfortunatelytheytendtogrowonlyinwarmerclimatesandwewantedtouseahomegrownalternativeNasturtiumseedsfittedthebillperfectlyIfyoudonrsquothavenasturtiumsinyourgardenyoucouldofcourseusecapersRemouladeisamayonnaise-basedsaucetypicallymadewithfinelydiced

cornichonsorothergherkinsUsingwhatwehaveavailablecansometimesproveachallengebutinthisinstanceitproducedauniquesweetgoldenbeetrootsauce

SERVES42lemonsolefilleted400gpurplesproutingbroccoliseasalt

FORTHEGOLDENBEETROOTANDNASTURTIUMREMOULADE

1smallgoldenbeetroot215mlcidervinegar1tspgroundfennelseeds1eggyolk1tablespoonorchardhoney1teaspoonEnglishmustard1tspseasalt350mlrapeseedoil

350mlrapeseedoil1tbspPickledNasturtiumSeeds(seehere)chopped1tbspchoppedflat-leafparsley

FORTHEFONDANTPINKFIRS

1tbsprapeseedoil500gPinkFirApplepotatoes(orotherwaxypotatoes)cutinto4cmpieces250gbuttercutintocubes

FirstmaketheremouladePeelthebeetrootcutitinto1cmcubesandsaltitgenerouslyLeaveforabout10minutestodrawoutalittlemoistureThiswillaidthecrunchRinsethebeetrootbrieflyandputitinabowlBring200mlofthevinegartotheboilwiththegroundfennelpouritoverthebeetrootandleavetocool(Thevinegarwhichwillhaveanearthyflavourfromthebeetrootcanbesavedforsaladdressings)Placetheeggyolkhoneymustardsaltandtheremaining15mlvinegarinabowlandwhiskeitherwithanelectricwhiskonfullspeedfor1minuteorbyhandforalittlelongerThiswillallowtheacidstogotoworkontheeggproteinsAddtherapeseedoilinaveryslowtrickleandwatchtomakesureitisbeingfullyincorporatedwhilethemixercontinuestospinoryourarmisablurOncethemixturehasemulsifiedyoucanpourtheoilinalittlefasterEventuallythemixtureshouldhaveathickwobblyconsistencyDrainthebeetrootandstiritintogetherwiththepicklednasturtiumseedsandparsleyChilluntilreadytoservendashitwillkeepforacoupleofdaysinthefridge

Forthefondantpotatoesheattheovento200degCGasMark6PlacealargeovenprooffryingpanoveramediumheatuntilhotAddtheoilfollowedbythepotatoesandcookstirringuntilthepotatoesaregoldenalloverSeasonwithsaltandaddallthecubesofbutterplusasplashofwaterAllowthebuttertomeltthencoverthecontentsofthepanwithadiscofgreaseproofpaperPlaceintheovenandcookfor30ndash35minutesuntilaknifewillpassthroughthepotatoeswithlittleresistance

Seasonthesolefilletsrollthemupandspikeon4skewers(seephotographsopposite)YouwillneedatallpanwithalidtocookthefilletsontheirspikesBringafewcentimetresofwatertoasimmerinthepanthenstandtheskewersinitCoverandcookgentlyfor7ndash8minutesuntilthefishisjustcookedthroughRemovefromthepanandkeepwarm

Cookthebroccoliinapanofboilingsaltedwaterfor3ndash4minutesuntiljusttenderthendrainCarefullyremovethesolefromtheskewersandserveonthefondantpotatoesaccompaniedbythebroccoliandsplashesoftheremoulade

daggerNasturtiumsareavaluableplanttohaveinanygardenTheleavesattractblackflyandslugswhichmeansthattheseunwantedvisitorsleaveothernearbyplantsandvegaloneThewholeplantisediblewiththeflowerstastingmoremagnificentthanwildrocketTheirpepperytastemakesthemworthyoftheirnamewhichmeanslsquonosetwistrsquo(PickledNasturtium

Seedspicturedseehere)

SeaRobinwithFennelButterSauceandHerbedPinkFirs

GurnardusedtobesounprofitableforfishermenthatitwasmostlyusedasbaitordiscardedThankstoenvironmentalcampaignersandchefshoweverthespecieshasrecentlybeensuccessfullychampionedasfoodanditisindeedsuperblytastyItiswidelythoughtofasanuglyfishbutwethinkthatitspoutingmouthandbigblackeyeswouldnotbeoutofplaceinacartoonThegurnardrsquosancientnameoflsquosearobinrsquomadeitsinclusiononourmenu

essentialasitseemedsopertinenttoourlocationLegendhasitthatrobinsaretheguardiansoftheorchardsSearobinsgainedtheirnameduetotheirabilitytoproducesoundswiththeirswimbladdersandattachedmusclesItseemsthattheyareasrelentlesslyvocalasourlandrobinswhichsingallyearroundThedelicate-tastingskinofthisfishmakesasuperbmatchforthe

liquoricehintoffennelseedsFennelcanbeseenfloweringbetweenJulyandOctoberincentralandsouthernareasofEnglandandalongcoastlinesinWalesTheseedscanbekeptandusedallyearroundYouwillappreciatethataniseedadditiontoyourfoodinthedepthsofwinterwhenotherinterestingingredientsarescarceThesauceisavariationonaclassichollandaisemadewithroughlyhalf

theusualamountofbutterWeliketoservethiswithkale(seehere)

SERVES42gurnardscaledandfilletedadrizzleofoilaknobofbutterfineseasaltandblackpepper

FORTHEFENNELBUTTERSAUCE

100mlfishstock(seehere)75mlwhitewine1tspfennelseeds185gcoldbuttercutinto1cmcubes

adashofcidervinegar3eggyolks

FORTHEHERBEDPOTATOES

600gPinkFirApplepotatoes(orotherwaxypotatoes)cutinto4ndash5cmpieces

1tbsprapeseedorgroundnutoilaknobofunsaltedbutterahandfulofparsleychopped

Ensurethegurnardfilletsareasdryaspossiblebeforescoringtheskinwithasharpknifewithcuts1cmapart(Seeoppositeforourtipondryingthefishfillets)Tomakethesauceputthefishstockwhitewineandfennelseedsinasmallpanoveramedium-highheatandboiluntiltheliquidhasreducedto3or4tablespoonsStrainitintoaheatproofbowltoremovethefennelseedsandleavetocoolfor5minutes

AddtheeggyolkstothereducedstockandwhiskuntilfullyincorporatedSitthebowloverapanofbarelysimmeringwatermakingsurethewaterdoesnrsquottouchthebaseofthebowlWhiskthemixtureuntilitbecomesairyandthickndashlookforsoftpeaksasyouwouldwitheggwhitesAtthisstagewhiskinthebutterapieceatatimeensuringeachisfullyincorporatedbeforeaddingthenextAfterawhilelargerquantitiesofbuttercanbeaddedeachtimeSeasonwithfineseasaltandvinegartotasteTakethepanofftheheatbutleavethebowloverthewaterwhileyoucookthefishandstirthesauceregularlytopreventaskinforming

CookthepotatoesinboilingsaltedwateruntiltenderthendrainPlacealargeheavy-basedfryingpanoverahighheatWhenitishotaddtheoilquicklyfollowedbythepotatoesTosstocoatlightlywiththeoilandseasonwithfineseasalt

CookstirringuntilgoldenalloverthenaddthebutterandparsleyTossthroughandremovefromtheheat

Heatalargeheavy-basedfryingpanoveramedium-highheatVerylightlyoiltheskinofthegurnardfilletsandseasonwithalightevenlayeroffineseasaltandcrackedblackpepperPourathinfilmofoilintothehotfrying

seasaltandcrackedblackpepperPourathinfilmofoilintothehotfryingpanandaddthegurnardskin-sidedownCookoveramediumheatwithoutturningormovingthefishfor2ndash3minutesuntiltheskinturnsgoldenbrownFlipthefilletsovertakethepanofftheheatandaddalargeknobofbutterLeavetorestfor5minutesndashthefishwillfinishcookingintheheatofthepanToservespoontheherbedpotatoesintothecentreofeachplateandpressdownwiththebackofthespoontocrushthemslightlyPlacethegurnardfilletsontopandspoonagenerousamountofthesaucearoundthepotatoes

LiquidshighinaciditysuchascitrusjuiceandvinegarcanbeusedasflavourenhancersmuchlikesaltItrsquosnotnecessarilythetasteofvinegarorcitrusthatwewantinthesaucebuttheyliftrichheavyflavoursprovidingawelcomeacidityandacleaner

tasteWhenusedasaseasoningvinegarshouldnotbenoticeableIfitisobviousthenyoursquoveusedtoomuch

ToachieveacrispskinonthefishasmuchmoistureaspossiblemustberemovedbeforecookingLaythefilletsskin-sideuponaboardRunaknifebladeangledslightlydownthefilletfromtheheadendtothetailendusingtheknifeasasqueegeetopushthemoisturedownandoutoftheskinUsekitchenpapertowipeoffthemoisturethatcollectsontheknifeandatthetailendofthefishRepeatuntiltheskinfeelsdrytothetouchFlipthefillets

overandwithasharpknifecuteachoneinhalfataslightangleTurnthefilletsskin-sideupagainandscoretheskinwithcuts1cmapartAverysharpknifeorascalpelwillcomeinhandyhereBesurenottocutintothefleshndashitrsquosonlytheskinyou

wanttoscoreThishelpsstopthefilletscurlingintheheatofthepan

PineappleTurmericandGingerGlazedHamwithlsquoPiccalillirsquo

SaladsdonotgetmuchbetterthanthisoneGammonandpineapplehavebeenafamiliarcombinationonpubmenusfordecadesThereissciencebehindthispairingasweoftenfindwhenweanalyseclassicfoodcombinationsPineapplecontainstheenzymebromelainwhichisanaturaltenderiserformeatMexicoalsohasabromelainandporkloveaffairascanbeseenatthetacosalpastorstandsThisoutrageouslyscoffablestreetfoodcomprisessmallcorntacosfilledwithshavingsofporkthathasbeengrilled

underpineappleThejuicedripsontothemeatasitcookscaramelisingandtenderisingitintheprocessIntheUKthepineappleusedtobeasymbolofwealthandhospitality

ParticularlyduringtheeighteenthcenturypossessionofthisspikyfruitwassoprestigiousthattherewasaproliferationofpineapplepitsincountryhousesacrossBritainApineapplepitwasademonstrationoftremendousgrowingskillanddedicationTheenergyneededtogrowthistropicalfruitismonumentalndashtheprocessinvolvedamixtureofmoistheatfromfermentingoakbarkorhorsemanureintheeartharoundthepineappleandanintricatesetoffurnacesandchimneysforadditionalheatTherearetheruinedremainsofapineapplepitonprivatelyownedlandverynearBarleyWoodItbelongedtotheslave-tradeabolitionistWilliamWilberforceafriendandallyofourBarleyWoodbenefactorHannahMorewhobuiltBarleyWoodHouseinthelateeighteenthcenturyDuringDecemberpineapplesfromtheCaribbeanareinseasonTryto

findFairtradefruitthatsmellssweetatthebaseThisindicatesthatithasbeenpickedclosetoripenessaspineapplesdonotripenfurtherafterbeingpicked

SERVES8GENEROUSLY

1largepineapple250ggoldengranulatedsugar3tbspgroundturmeric50gfreshgingerpeeledandfinelydiced1ndash2kgfree-rangecookedham

FORTHEPICCALILLI

200gcidervinegar100gcastersugar20corianderseedsfrac12tspdriedchilliflakes100gshallotstoppedandtailedslicedinhalfthroughthetopsandseparatedintoindividuallayers1tbspgroundturmeric

100gcauliflowerflorets

100gGlazedStarAnisecarrots(seehere)Heattheovento200degCGasMark6TopandtailthepineappleandcutawaythespikyskinCutthefleshawayfromthecoreandplaceinablenderorfoodprocessorPulsetillsmooththenstrainthemixturethroughasievepressingwiththebackofaspoontoextractthejuiceReserve35mlofthejuiceforthesaladdressing(youwonrsquotneedtherest)PutthepulpinabowlandmixwiththesugarturmericandgingerThisistheglazingmixturefortheham

Placethehamflat-sidedownonabakingsheetandspreadtheglazingmixturethicklyoveritCookfor30ndash40minutesuntiltheglazeiscaramelisedSetasidetocool

ForthepiccalilliheatthevinegartoboilingpointaddthesugarandstiruntildissolvedAddthecorianderseedschilliflakesandshallotsandbringbacktoasimmerRemovetheshallotswithaslottedspoonandsetasidetocoolAddtheturmerictothehotliquidfollowedbythecauliflowerfloretsBringtoasimmerthenstirwellRemovefromtheheatandleavethecauliflowertocoolintheyellowvinegarItwillpickupthecolouroftheturmericasitcools

FORTHESALADDRESSING

85mlcold-pressedrapeseedoilorgroundnutoil25mlcidervinegar35mlpineapplejuice1tspgroundstaranise1tspDijonmustard2pinchesofsalt

FORTHESALAD

200gMiikepurplegiantleaves(orothermustardysaladleaves)100gsaladleaves(weuseamixtureofredfrillwatercressandlandcress)100gwinterlettuceleavesabunchofcorianderabunchofchrysanthemumleavesifavailable

Tomakethedressingplacealltheingredientsinablenderandblenduntilemulsified

emulsified

ArrangeallthesaladleavesonservingplatesreservingafewofthesmallerredfrillforgarnishIfithelpstocuttheMiikepurplegiantdownthendosoSlicethehamandplaceacoupleofslicesontopoftheleavesintertwinedwithpiecesofthedeconstructedpiccalilliFinishbylightlydrizzlingoverthedressingandgarnishingwiththereservedleaves

GlazedStarAniseCarrots

300gcarrotspeeledandcutinto25cmchunks20gsaltedbutter2staranise1tspsugarpinchoffineseasalt

HeatapanoveramediumheatThepanshouldbebigenoughtoholdthecarrotsinasinglelayerWhenthepanishotaddthebutter(thebuttershouldsizzlebutnotburn)ThesecondthesizzlingsubsidesaddthestaraniseandcarrotsTossthecarrotsthroughthebuttertocoatevenlythenaddthesugarandsaltAddabout330mlcoldwatertothepan(enoughtoalmostcoverthecarrots)andturntheheatuptohighItmaytake5ndash10minutesforthewatertoalmostfullyreduceandthenthecarrotswillbegintosizzleagainStirthecarrotsvigorouslysothattheybegincaramelisingevenlyonallsidesWhentheyareanevengoldencolourremovefromthepanandservestraightaway

daggerAnumberofapplestastingremarkablylikepineapplecanbefoundinBritishorchardsExamplesinourorchardareRibstonPippinand

BlenheimOrangePitmastonPineapplewasmostlikelygrownfromaGoldenPippinseedlingbyJohnWilliamsin1845atPitmastonHouseinWorcesterThissmallsweetandrussetapplehasremarkablepineappletonesandyellowflesh

WINTERSALADS

MarkthegardenergrowshiswintersaladleavesinpolytunnelsatthebottomofthewalledgardenTheyrsquoreonaraisedplatformhoveringoverthefieldbelowDuringwinterwecanusuallytellwhetherMarkisinbyatrailingplumeofsmokefromthelittlestovethatheatshiskettleHealsothrowstogetheranexcellentvegetablestewthatwilloftensitcookingonthestoveformostofthemorningTheviewthroughthetunnelsandoutoftheopendoorisawonderfulsightoverlookingthefieldbelowitgivestheimpressionofanentrancetoanotherworldThetunnelsareplantedwithanumberofleavesthatprovidefresh

succulenceandawelcomevitamininjectiontotheshortchillydaysofwinterInthesaladonhereweuseMiikepurplegiant(Brassicajuncea)ThisleafisclassedasavegetableandinsomeculturesisboiledandsteamedWeprefertoeatitrawandrelishitshotmustardflavourItisalsoanindicatoroftheweatherasitturnsadeeperpurpleasthetemperaturedropsOppositeMarkhasplantedwinterpurslane(Claytoniaperfoliata)AnativeofNorthAmericaitisalsoknownasminerrsquoslettuceasitwaseatenbyminerstofendoffscurvyIthasalily-pad-liketopandatendertrailingstemMatureleavesseethebloomingofatinyflowerthatpiercesthecentreInrecentyearsMarkhastakentogrowingchrysanthemumsfortheir

leavesTheyhaveadistinctivetangthatresemblespineapplePrisingitfromMarkrsquosmuddyfingersisatrickybusinessbutwellworthitAddingmoremustardheatandcolourisredfrillndashajaggedvarietycontainingtwoexcellentcompoundssinigrinandgluconasturtiinWhenthesinigrinintheleafisexposedtocompoundsintheairitreactsandcreatesmustardoilItisthisverymustardyoilthatgivesthedishonhereitsfireaperfectcomplementtothesweettenderham

EcclesCakeswithDorsetBlueVinnySauce

TherelationshipbetweensweetandsavouryisaninterestingoneSaltmakessweetingredientstastelessone-dimensionalsoyouperceivethemasbeingmoreflavourfulthantheyreallyarePerhapsthemostcommonexampleofthecombinationisourlong-standingtraditionofeatingcheesewithfruitNoonewouldraiseaneyebrowifyousuggestedaccompanyinganuttyRussetapplewithasliceofCheddarInYorkshirendashandinsomepartsofAmericandashservingapplepiewithapieceofcheeseiscommonplaceThisdishsprangfromtheBritishtraditionofpairingEcclescakeswitha

sliceofLancashirecheeseWestartedexperimentingwithanEcclescakerecipewhenweweretryingtofindsuitablepuddingsforasherryandgamenightattherestaurantWethoughtDorsetBlueVinnywouldbeaworthylocalalternativetoLancashirecheeseasitisequallycreamyyethasmoredepthHavingworkedoutthecorrectcheese-to-sherryratioforthesauce

depthHavingworkedoutthecorrectcheese-to-sherryratioforthesaucewepoureditovertheEcclescakesthathadjustcomeoutoftheovenhopingtheresultwouldbemorethanpalatableItworkedremarkablywellandhasbecomeourWestCountryversionofthetraditionalnortherndishWefeaturethisdessertregularlyonourdaytimemenuandfindthatsome

customersapproachitwithadegreeofnervousnessButweareyettomeetanyonewhodoesnotthoroughlyenjoyitswell-balancedquirkinessThesaucehasbecomesopopularthatcustomersoftenrequestitasanaccompanimenttowhichevercakehappenstobeonthedessertmenuWemustobservethatnoteverycakeisentirelycompatiblewiththesaucebutwhoarewetocurtailourcustomersrsquoinventiveness

MAKES14CAKES50gbutter90gdarksoftbrownsugar1frac34teaspoonsgroundmixedspice(seehereifyoursquodliketomakeyourown)270gcurrants

50gCandiedPeel(seehereorusegood-qualityboughtpeel)finelychopped1quantityofFlakyPastry(seehere)orgood-qualityshop-boughtpuffpastry1egglightlybeaten

demerarasugarforsprinkling

FORTHEDORSETBLUEVINNYSAUCE

250mldoublecream100gcastersugar40gDorsetBlueVinnycheese(orSticheltoncheese)crumbled50mlsweetsherrysuchasPedroXimeacutenezorBristolCream

Tomakethesauceputthecreamsugarcheeseandsherryinapan(includehalfthecurrantsifyouwanttoenrichtheflavouroftheEcclescakes)andheatgentlyuntilthecheesehasmeltedandthesauceissmoothStrainthroughasieveandsetaside(reservethecurrantsfortheEcclescakes)Thesaucecanbekeptinthefridgeforupto2weeks

TomaketheEcclescakesplacethebuttersugarandmixedspiceinasaucepanandheatthroughgentlystirringoccasionallyuntilthesugarhasmeltedintothebutterRemovefromtheheatandstirinthecurrants

meltedintothebutterRemovefromtheheatandstirinthecurrants(includingtheonesusedforthesauce)andthecandiedpeelSetasidetocool

Heattheovento180degCGasMark4TakethepastryoutofthefridgeandsetitonalightlyflouredsurfacewithoneoftheshortendsnearestyouRollouttoabout3mmthickUsingan11cmpastrycuttercutoutasmanyroundsasyoucanDividethefillinginto40gportionsandplaceoneportioninthecentreofeachcircleofpastryThismayseemlikealotbutitmakessensewhenyouareeatingthecakesNextyouneedtoenclosethecurrantmixtureinthepastryThiscanbequitetrickybutyouwillfindatechniquethatworksafteralittleplayingWedoitbypinching4lsquocornersrsquoofthecircletogetheroverthecurrantmixtureandthengentlyfoldingintheexcesspastryWhereyouarepinchingthepastrytogetherwillbetheundersidesoaslongasthefillingiscompletelyencloseditdoesnrsquotneedtolookperfectThepastryshouldsealitselfbutifnecessarybrushitverylightlywithwater

PlacetheEcclescakestherightwayupontheworksurfaceandshapeeachoneintoaneatroundwithaflattopThismayrequireasmallamountofmanipulatingUsingasharpknifeslash3horizontallinesacrossthetopLightlybrushthetopoftheEcclescakeswithbeatenegganddustwithdemerarasugarBakefor18minutesoruntilthepastryisgoldenbrownandcookedallthewaythroughTransfertoawireracktocoolfor10minutesthenservewiththesauceDingdangdoo

daggerMadefromthemilkthatisleftafterskimmingoffthefattomakebutterDorsetBlueVinnyisathriftywartimecheesebornoutoftheneednottowasteanythingItretainsitscreaminessbyreintroducingsemi-skimmedmilkpowdertothemilkonceitreachestheappropriatetemperatureLegendhasitthatthebacteriausedtobeintroducedbydraggingmouldyhorseharnessesthroughthemilkbeforeaddingtherennetandstoringthecheeseondampbagsnexttomouldybootsSadlyitisboringpenicillinbywayofblue-mouldsolutionnowadays

MilkStoutandChocolateSteamedPudding

ThisrecipeisacombinationoftwoofourfavouritethingsmilkstoutandaBritishsteamedpuddingWhenwefirstopenedTheEthicureanwedrankBristolBeerFactoryrsquoschilledmilkstoutonthelawnoverlookingthegardenIthadthemostremarkablebalanceofsweetnessandroastmaltthatwehadevertastedSincethisboozysummereveninglsquomilkstoutonthelawnrsquohasbecomeshorthandforlsquoHurryupletrsquosgoandhaveabeerrsquoMilkstoutwasfirstbrewedontheBristolBeerFactorysiteinthe1900s

anditsrecentrevivalwasanexcellentmoveDuringthebrewingprocessunfermentablelactosesugarisaddedgivingthebeeraresidualsweetness

unfermentablelactosesugarisaddedgivingthebeeraresidualsweetnessThispuddingservedwithaninappropriateamountofdoublecream

shouldberegardedasanewBritishclassic

SERVES6160mlBristolBeerFactoryrsquosmilkstout150gbuttercutintocubes235gcastersugar45gcocoapowder160gplainflour85mlsouredcream1largeegg2tspvanillaextract1frac12tspbicarbonateofsodadoublecreamtoserve

PlacethemilkstoutandbutterinasaucepanoverthelowestpossibleheatandwhiskuntilthebutterhasjustmeltedItisimportantnottooverheatthemixtureorthebutterwillsplitresultinginanoilypuddingAddthesugarandstiruntildissolved

Siftthecocoapowderandflourintothemixturein2lotswhiskingthoroughlyaftereachtoblendwellSetaside

LightlywhiskthesouredcreameggvanillaandbicarbonateofsodatogetheruntilcombinedAddthistothestoutandflourmixtureandwhiskbrieflytoincorporateoncemore

Thoroughlygreasea12litrepuddingbasinwithbutterAddthepuddingmixtureTakeapieceoffoillargeenoughtocoverthetopofthebasingenerouslyfoldingathickpleatinthecentre(thiswillallowthepuddingtoexpandduringsteaming)andplaceitonthebasintuckingtheedgesfirmlyundertherimPutthebasininasteamerbasketandsetitoverapancontainingabout10cmboilingwaterCoverandsteamoveralowheatfor2hourscheckingthewaterlevelevery30minutesandtoppingupwhennecessary

Removethebasinfromthesteamerandleavetostandfor5minutesTake

Removethebasinfromthesteamerandleavetostandfor5minutesTakeoffthefoilrunaknifearoundtheedgeofthepuddingthenturnitoutontoaplateYoursquollneedplentyofcreamasthispuddingisseriouslythirsty

PedroXimeacutenezandWhiskywithVermouthSmoke

EveryyearweholdasherryandgamenightpairingvarioussherrieswithatastingmenuofgamePedro-Ximeacutenez(PX)isalwaysthefavouritesherryandwelovepairingitwithEcclescakes(seehere)ThisvelvetysherryisthecolourofdarkwoodandwithitsraisinandcaramelflavourstastesalmostlikeChristmaspuddinginliquidformCombiningPXwithawhiskysuchasMacallan10YearOldFineOakandalittlevermouthsmokecreatesatotallyuniquecocktailEvenafterthelastfewdropshavebeendrunkmanycustomersaskforthedecantertostayonthetablesothattheycanbreatheinthelastofthetreaclesmoke

SERVES2100mlPX(welikeBodegasGutierrezColosiaPedroXimeacutenez)50mlwhisky(welikeMacallan10YearOldFineOakwhisky)

TOMAKEICESPHERES

WashlongballoonsoutbeforefillingthemwithwaterTieofftheballoonsandthenusestringtoseparatethemintothesizeofspherethatyouwouldlikeRememberthattheywillexpandastheyfreezeUsingdistilledwaterwillmeanthattheiceiscompletelyclearbuttheystilllookimpressivewhenmadewithtapwater

JackusesasmokeguntomakethisdrinkChillthePXandwhiskybystirringtogetherwithiceinamixingglassNextfilladecanterwithsmokeJackusesoakchipsthathavebeenusedtooakourVermouth(seehere)andthendriedPourthechilledliquidintothedecanterandpopinthestopperThesmokeshouldgraduallyformadensecloudPourintosmallglassesfilledwithplentyofice(weliketoputanicesphereineachglassseeleft)

Ifyoudonothaveaccesstoahandsmokeryoucanmakethisdrinkinabarbecuesmoker(seeTinCanandSolderingIronApproachhere)Placethedrinkinacontainerwithasmuchsurfaceareaaspossibleandleavetosmokefor1hour

NOTEWehaveexperimentedwithupscalingthisrecipeandbottlinglargerquantitiesthenleavingtomature(theNegronionherealsoupscales

wonderfully)WereuseSipsmithrsquosginbottles(thanksSipsmith)AtthetimeofwritingwehaveabottleofthiscocktailthatwasmixedthreemonthsagoWehavenoticedarealdevelopmentinthecomplexitiesofflavourastheelementsbegintofeatherinitbecomesdifficulttosensewhereonecomponentendsandanotherbegins

FennelSeedandGingerHotChocolate

WefirsttastedthiscombinationofchocolateherbandspiceattheAbergavennyFoodFestivalOurstallhappenedtobenexttothatofthechocolatierPaulAYoungandheverykindlygaveusafewofhiscreationstotasteWewerestruckbythesweetfragrantalmostmedicinalqualityofhismilkchocolatewithfennelseedandgingerOncethecoldweathercaughtupwithusatTheEthicureanweexperimentedwithafewhotchocolaterecipesandsettledonthisonewhichwethinkcapturestheessenceofPaulrsquosideaRomanescofennelseedsareharvestedatBarleyWoodwhentheseed

headsturnbrownThewholeheadscanbeputinapaperbagtodryAfterafewweeksastrongshakewilldeposittheseedsatthebottomofthebagTheseseedsareattheirabsolutebestwhentheyarestillalittlegreenTomakethefennelsugarwhizequalquantitiesofgranulatedsugarandfennelseedstogetherinablenderorfoodprocessorItcanbeaddedtoallsortsofdesserts

SERVES2COMFORTABLY

400mlmilk100gdarkchocolatewith70ndash73percentcocoasolidsgratedplusalittleextratofinish(weuseOriginalBeanschocolate)1tspgroundginger

20gdarkmuscovadosugarapinchofsalt2tspfennelsugar100mldoublecream

Gentlyheathalfthemilkinapanandaddthegratedchocolategingermuscovadosugarsaltandmostofthefennelsugar(saveapinchforsprinkling)StiruntilthechocolatehasmeltedintothemilkthenwhiskintheremainingmilkandthecreamDonotallowthemixturetoboilbutbringittoacomfortabledrinkingtemperatureIfyouhaveahandblendersubstitutethisforawhiskeitherwayforafrothyheadagoodamountofwhiskingisneeded

Servesprinkledwiththeremainingfennelsugarandafewshardsofchocolate

IfyouhaveaccesstoanespressomachinecombinethegratedchocolatewiththegingersugarsaltfennelandjustenoughmilktomakeathickpastethenheatitusingthesteamwandWarm2mugsandpourthethickspicedchocolateintothemSteamtheremainingmilkwiththecreaminametaljugusingthesteamwandThetrickistointroduceenoughsteamnearthesurfaceofthemilktocreateawhirlpoolthisshouldgenerateverylittlenoiseKeepahandcuppedaroundthesteamingjugWhenitistoohottoholdcomfortablystopsteamingTapthejugontheworktopseveraltimestopopanysurfacebubblesandthenswirltominimiseanyseparationbetweenfoamandliquidPourthisglossymilkontothethickchocolateAfteralittlepracticeitisrelativelysimpletocreateafewpatternsThissteamingprocesswillcreatethemicro-foamneededtomakeasilkyhotchocolate

RecipeList

NettleSoupwithCaerphillyStGeorgersquosMushroomswithAsparagusRibwortPlantain

MushroomJellyandAppleJellySweet-cureMackerelwithMorelsSpeltSodaBreadand

HorseradishAsparaguswithToastedSesameandHollandaiseSauce

ClearHamHockBrothwithPoachedEggsCaerphillyandCiderWelshRabbit

SmokedChipotleChilliesSmokedRoeDeerLoinwithWildRocketClampedCarrots

HoneyedWalnutsandWoodSorrelCurdCheeseCucumberFlatBeanAniseedandSesame

CrabSaladwithNewPotatoesPickledCarrotandSmokedPaprikaMayonnaise

SpringRadisheswithAnchovyCregravemeFraicheTroutwithKelpandShiitakeMushroomStockRiceFlatBeans

andSeaKaleGoatMeatballsMashLovageButterandMustardGreens

OxTonguewithSwedeParsleyandCiderVinegarOxTonguewithCauliflowerGilliflowerandHazelnuts

SaltMarshLambwithTidalGreensSteamedRabbitPudding

PorkJuniperandBlackIPAPiePearlBarleywithOldDemdikeandStGeorgersquosMushroom

RhubarbandCustardChocolateandSaltCaramelBrownieswithCherryand

ElderflowerSauceElderflowersyrup

StrawberryandRoseLemonadePuddingwithSaffronandCiderBrandyCustard

TheEthicureanVermouthBotanicalsVermouth

RoseLemonadeTheEthicureanCocktail

Negroni

SPRINGINTHEWRINGTONValehasauniquefeelThereisasenseofimminentactivitythatmomentbeforesomebodytellsyousomethingtheyhavekeptsecretforalongtime

ColourcomesfirstandthedaffodilsarestilloutinlateMarchbetweentheoutsidewallandthelowerorchardthickyellowcarpetsintheshadowsoftheappletreesJackisoutstalkingroedeerwithAlanDownagoodfriendandexperiencedstalkerbeforethenewshootsandleavesprovidetoomuchcoverDuringspringmorningsbeforeserviceMatthewandIainrolldownthesleevesoftheirchefrsquoswhitesandpickyoungnettleshootswithglovedhandsCarriedupthroughthegardeninapplecratesthenettlesarecarefullycleanedandendupasabrightgreensoupLumpsofGorwyddCaerphillyarefloatedonthesurfacemeltingtoanirresistiblegelatinoustexture

KaleradishesandrainbowchardareallreadyWefrythekaleinahotpanwithplentyofcidervinegarandsaltMarkplantstheradishesasacompanionplantbetweentherowsofgarlicWeslicetheseredrootsintosaladsndashsomearefieryandneedacoolingsomethingtosubduetheirheatTherubychardrequireslittlecookingandissmotheredunderagenerousmeasureofhollandaiseasabreakfasttreat

AsspringcontinuesonitspaththebluebellsflowerreplacingtheyellowdaffodilsTheyareadeepvioletblueNotmanypeopleknowthattheVictorianswouldstiffentheircollarswithcrushedbluebells

NexttheblossomcomesasuresignofthenewseasoneachblossomapotentialfruitFirstuparetheplumsanddamsonsTheseguardthewestwallsprayedoutwardsontheircanedespaliersPearsandcherriesquicklyfollowwhileapplesareslowerblossominginAprilQuincecomesnextweareproudofoursingletreewhichprovidesuswithenoughfruitformembrilloallyearlongMedlarsarelastcream-colouredflowersthatwillbecomeuglyfruitbutwithexcellentflavourPaulacanbefoundwalkingbetweenthetreesforecastingourfuturecropandthebumblebeesareoutfor

betweenthetreesforecastingourfuturecropandthebumblebeesareoutfornectar

AprilcanmeanonlyonethingtheasparagusseasonWepatrolthebedsatBarleyWoodkeeneyeshuntingforthefirstelusivespearstopushuptheirtightcrisptipsThispreciouscropisdevouredwithpoachedeggsorstraightfromthepanwithplentyofbutter

StGeorgersquosDaymarksthetimetolookforStGeorgersquosmushroomsTheonlyforagedmushroomsafetobeeatenrawithasanaturalflavourcompanionintheformofribwortplantainThisseedheadfoundinourorchardisafirmfavouriteofoursandthetwotogethermakeawonderfulseasonaldelicacy

MayheraldstheyellowflowersofmeadowvetchlingandcreepingcinquefoilfavouritesofthegrizzledskipperbutterflyPrimrosesarealsofloweringintheshadeoftheBramleytrees

InJunetheherbgardenlooksbeautifulWepinchoutthenewgrowthtomakebotanicalteasforourhousevermouthMarkrsquosstrawberriesbegintocropandweuseupthelastjarofthepreviousseasonrsquosjaminourroselemonadesteamedpuddingThejampanissetfirmlybackonthestove

NettleSoupwithCaerphilly

Thissouprsquosstrikingemeraldcolour(nettleshaveoneofthehighestlevelsofchlorophyllinthevegetablekingdom)mightleadyoutothinkofitasalightstarterDonotbefooledItisanextremelywholesomesoupthatcouldhelpyourunamarathonRomansoldiersaresaidtohavebroughttheirownsupplyofnettlestoBritainasarichsourceofproteintofuellongmarchesinthecoldwetclimatePerhapsthatiswhythissoupissopopularwithstaffattherestaurantwhenonbusyspringdaysyouwillcatchusallsippingamugofittokeepusgoingTheCaerphillyaddsacreamytextureWefavourGorwyddCaerphilly

madebyourfriendstheTrethowanfamilyattheirfarmsituatedbetweenLampeterandAberystwythItisoneofourall-timefavouriteBritishcheesesandweconsideritsWelshrabbitcapabilitiestobeunrivalled(seehere)Oysterspairremarkablywellwithnettlesandwersquodrecommendserving

thissoupwithoystersdroppedintoitatthelastmomentThereisanionicqualitytothemboththatjustsingswhentheyareeatenincombinationAchunkofbreadwithapatofsaltedbutterisalsoanexcellentaddition

SERVES4

alittlevegetableoil500gonionsthinlysliced250gceleriaccutintosmallcubes250gcarrotscutintosmallcubes1litrefishstockorvegetablestock(seehere)100ndash120gnettletipsfreshlypicked(theymustbeveryyoung)200gCaerphillycheesepreferablyGorwyddcutintosmallcubesrapeseedoilfordrizzlingseasalt

PlacealargepanoveramediumheatAddathinfilmofvegetableoilfollowedbytheonionsceleriacandcarrotsCoverandsweatforabout5minutesuntilthevegetableshavestartedtosoftenbutarenotcolouredAddthestockbringtoasimmerandcookuntilthevegetablesaresoftTheyshouldbesoftenoughtoblitzeasilyanythingbeyondthathoweverandtheflavourwillbegintodull

flavourwillbegintodull

TransferthesouptoablenderinbatchesthatfillitnomorethanhalffullandblitzuntilsmoothaddingthenettleswiththefinalbatchPourthroughafinesieveintoacleanpanChecktheconsistencyofthesoupifyouwouldpreferalooserfinishstirinalittlemorestockSeasonwithseasalttotasteandreheatverygentlyifthenettlesareheatedfortoolongtheyturnaveryunappealingshadeofdarkgreenServeinlargebowlsgarnishedwiththecubesofCaerphillyandatinydrizzleofrapeseedoil

daggerThebasetothissoupiswhatisknownasamirepoixAmirepoixreferstoonionscelery(orinthiscaseceleriac)andcarrotsintheratioof211ItisaveryclassicstartingpointincookeryandresultsinanoveralltastethatisgreaterthanthatofitsworthyingredientsWeoftenusethisratioofvegetablesforstocksandbasesofsauces

MUSHROOMS

WhenweopenedtherestaurantwereliedonseveralprofessionalforagerstobringussteadysuppliesofmushroomsWecannotemphasiseenoughtheimportanceofusingexpertsinyourownlearningprocessIfyouareeverindoubtaboutthetypeofmushroomyouhavefounddonottakeachanceTheconsequencescanbefatalItisacommonmistaketoforgetoneofthefinestwild

mushroomsnativetoBritainndashStGeorgersquosmushroomTheyarefoundaround23AprilStGeorgersquosDayandareavailableuntilearlyJuneTheirdistinctivearomahasbeenaptlydescribedasthesmellofBritishfieldsThismakesperfectsenseastheyoftenforminaringcompletelyhiddenunderlonggrassIfyoufindtheirsmelloverwhelmingpleasedonrsquotgiveuponthemWeareconvincedthattheytastebestwheneatenrawsotrythesmalleronesfirstasthesmelldevelopswithageandyoumightfindthemlesspungentFailingthatifyoucookthemtheirscentisgreatlycamouflagedWehaveheardthatsomerestaurantsfeelnervousabouthavingthemonthemenuyetwithexpertidentificationtherereallyisnoreasontodepriveyourselfofsuchaninterestingdelicacyStGeorgersquosistheonlyforagedmushroomthatcanbeserved

rawandwewouldalwaysadviseyoutocookothervarietiesInitiallyrawStGeorgersquostasteoffreshcucumberbuttheflavourdevelopsintosomethingmoreakintomelontowardstheendWeservethemwithasparagusandribwortplantainanotherforagedplantthatiseasytofindasitgrowscommonlyonlawnsandgreenareasSadlyitisnowconsideredaweedbutpleasehelpusreintroduceittoBritishcookingItiseasytoidentifythebulbshaveelongatedkernel-liketipsandonceyouspotititisimpossibletomissItinitiallytastesslightlybitterbutthisdevelopsintoanuttywoodyflavourndashoftenlikenedtothatofcepmushroomsndashthattiesinperfectlywiththeearthywoodland

notesoftheStGeorgersquosFormoreofourthoughtsaboutmushroomsseehere

StGeorgersquosMushroomswithAsparagusRibwortPlantainMushroomJellyandAppleJelly

WeusedtoforageformushroomsasoftenaspossiblebeforemovingtotheWalledGardenAlwaysladenwithtoomanybooksonthesubjectwewouldsetoutwithourlurcherhopingtotrainhertofindsomedelicaciesOurlackofexperiencemusthaverubbedoffonherasshewasmoreinterestedinstickspineconesandsquirrelsGraduallywelearnedtoidentifychickenofthewoodsparasolsandbeefsteakfungusForagingbecameoneofourfavouriteautumnalactivitiesAtfirstwetravelledfurtherawaythanweneededinourquesttobecomeamateurmycologistsWithtimethoughwelearnedthevaluablelessonthatthebestingredientsareusuallytobefoundonyourdoorstep

SERVES4

abunchofasparagus20smallribwortplantainflowerheads1tspmintleavespreferablyspearmint12ndash16summerpurslaneleavesorothersaladleavesfineseasalt

FORTHEMUSHROOMJELLY

250gStGeorgersquosmushroomsapinchofsaltfrac12tspagaragarpowder

FORTHEAPPLEJELLY

250gapplejuicefrac12tspagaragarpowder

FirstmakethemushroomjellyRemovethestalksfromthemushroomsandsetthecapsasideCleanthestalksthoroughlyandthenchopfinelyPuttheminapancoverwith250gwaterandsimmerfor15minutesStrainthecookingliquorthroughafinesieveintoacleanpanpressingwiththebackofaspoontoextractitallDiscardthestalksMeasurethecookingliquorandaddadashmorewaterifnecessarytotakeitbackupto250gSeasonwith

addadashmorewaterifnecessarytotakeitbackupto250gSeasonwithsaltrememberingthatinthisinstancealittlegoesalongwayReturnthepantotheheatandstirintheagaragaruntildissolvedTheliquorneedstoboilbrieflytohydratetheagarandactivateitsgellingpropertiesPourintoasmallplasticboxWeuseonethatgivesafinaldepthofabout1cmsowecancutthejellyintocubesbutfeelfreetoexperimentLeavetocoolthenplaceinthefridgeuntilsetItwillkeepfor4days

FortheapplejellyheatthejuiceinapanstirintheagaragarandbringtotheboiluntildissolvedLeavetocoolandthensetinaplasticboxasdescribedabove

TrimtheasparagusbyfindingthenaturalpointwherethestalksnapsclosetothebaseandbreakingitoffHaveapanoffast-boilingsaltedwaterreadyandabowloficedwatertooCooktheasparagusintherapidlyboilingwaterforupto2minutesbutnomoreRemovethespearsandchillthemintheicedwatertheywillretaintheirbrightgreencolour

Finelyslicethereservedmushroomcapsandlaythemon4platesDustwithfineseasaltLaytheasparagusspearsontopofthemushroomsCutthejellyintosmallcubesandaddateaspoonofeachflavourtoeachplatealongwiththeribwortflowersmintleavesandpurslaneEncouragementforallamateurmycologists

Sweet-cureMackerelwithMorelsSpeltSodaBreadandHorseradish

ThecombinationofmackerelaniseedandhorseradishoffersawiderangeofflavoursThecurestopsthemackerelinitstrackspreservingafreshionicsnapshotoftheoceanHorseradishisafamiliarcompaniontomackerelsinceitswarmthisgoodwithoilyfishInterestinglyfishareattractedtothesmellofaniseedaswellastastingsuperbwithitMackerelareadelicatefishthatspoilquicklysochooseline-caughtones

andmakesuretheyareveryfreshThesmalloneswiththebrightesteyesarebestandareoftencheaperthanthelargerfishTheflavourofmorelmushroomsisextraordinaryndashreminiscentofthe

richnessofbeefThemushroomsreleasesporesthatarepickedupandcarriedbythewindSearchingformorelsisadeeplyengrossingtasksowatchoutforlowhangingbranchesasyouhuntWehavefoundthemunderashandsycamoretheyfavourdyinganddeadelmsTheyhavehollowfruitingbodiesandahoneycombstructureBewareoffalsemorelsknownasElfinSandalsThehorseradishsauceisausefulstandbythatcomesoutwheneverwe

haveleftoversirloinorbrisketItrsquosalsoverygoodoncoldlambsmokedfishandhamandexemplaryeatenwithSalt-bakedBabyBeets(seehere)andoxtongueDiguptherootofahealthyhorseradishwashawayresidualsoilandpeeltherootYouwilllikelybeleftwith50ndash100g(Ajarofgratedhorseradishisafinesubstitute)WhengratedhorseradishreleasesacompoundcalledsinigrinandenzymesitmeetsintheairimmediatelybreakthisdowntoformmustardoilThearomaisguaranteedtohaveyouinrabbinicallyintensetearsOursmallkitchenbecomesariotoffauxwailingandlaughterwheneverwepreparethisThetaskisnowseenasanaidtocamaraderieandteambuilding

SERVES44mackerelfilletspinbonesremoved10gdriedmorelmushrooms(orceps)400mlcidervinegar1tablespoonaniseed300gcastersugar

300gcastersugarfineseasalt

FORTHESPELTSODABREAD

200gbrownspeltflour200gwhitespeltflour50gfineoatmeal(oruseporridgeoatsthathavebeenblendeduntilfine)1tspbicarbonateofsoda1tspsalt1tbsphoney375mlbuttermilk(ifunavailablemix25mlwhitevinegarwith350mlmilkandleavetorestfor5minutes)

25gbuttermelted

FORTHEHORSERADISHSAUCE

1horseradishrootfinelygrated2tbspcidervinegar4tbspcregravemefraicirccheorsouredcream1teaspoonchoppedchives1teaspoonchiveflowersseasalt

Laythemackerelfilletsflesh-sidedownonabedoffineseasaltandchillfor2hourstocurethenrinseThisgivesafirmer-fleshedresult

Rehydratethemushroomsbysteepingtheminnear-boilingwaterwithasplashofthevinegarfor10minutesStrainreservingtheliquorandthencheckeachoneisfreeofsoilandsandTheliquorthatremainswillbedelicatelysmokyandtrulyflavoursome

WarmtheaniseedthroughinadrypanuntilitspitsandcracksthencarefullypourthemushroomliquorintothepanleavinganyresidueofsoilorsandbehindItwillboiluprapidlyasithitsthehotpansotakecareatthispointTheevaporationwillintensifytheflavourofthemushroomstockAddthevinegarandheatthroughthenaddthesugarandstiruntildissolvedAddthemorelmushroomsandremovefromtheheatAllowthismixturetocoolthenpouritoverthefishfilletsPlaceinthefridgeforatleast2hours

coolthenpouritoverthefishfilletsPlaceinthefridgeforatleast2hoursandupto6hoursThesimple-to-makespeltsodabreadcanfillthisgapquitecomfortably

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6MixallthedryingredientsforthebreadtogetherinalargebowlthenmakeawellinthecentreAddthehoneybuttermilkandmeltedbuttertothewellandmixwithawoodenspoonuntilwellcombinedPutthedoughintoa900gloaftin(ora23cmspringformcaketin)linedwithbakingparchmentandplaceintheovenBakefor15minutesthenreducetheoventemperatureto160degCGasMark3andbakefor30minuteslongerTurntheloafoutontoateatowelandtapthebaseitshouldsoundhollowIfnecessaryreturntotheovenforafewminuteslongerCooltheloafonawirerackcoveringitwithateatowelifyoupreferasoftcrust

CombinethegratedhorseradishvinegarandapinchofseasaltStrainthroughasievediscardingtheliquidthencombinewiththecregravemefraicirccheorsouredcreamSeasontotastewithsaltandtopwiththechivesandthepurple-huedchiveflowersThesweetaniseandmorelmackerelcannowbeliftedfromitssouseandservedwithchunksofbutteredsodabreadandtheirresistiblehorseradish

AsparaguswithToastedSesameandHollandaiseSauce

InaquietcornerbeyondthegardenwallsshelteredononesidebyasetofimposingcobnuttreesandguardedontheotherbydenseVictorianbayhedgesyouwillfindoneofourfavouriteingredientsgrowingsilentlyinitssandybedFormostoftheyeartheasparagusbedslookdesolateandgreylikeminiaturedunesinsomeforeignlandTheirdrabappearancemeansthattheyareoftenoverlookedbyvisitorstotheWalledGardenHowevertheyareregularlydisturbedbysquirrelstryingtoburythecobnutstheyhavelaboriouslycollectedfromtheneighbouringtreesWhentheasparagusspearsbegintogrowandweseetheirshyheadsstartingtopokeoutitisanintenselysatisfyingfeelingThenewsthattheasparagusisreadyforpickingtravelsfastwhichisprobablywhyitisinvariablytheitemwerunoutoffirstonthemenuNothingreallypreparesyouforthetasteofasparagusfreshlypickedfromthegarden

pickedfromthegardenUnfortunatelytheoriginalasparagusbedsattheWalledGardendidnot

survivethehardyearswhenthegardenwasallowedtofallintodeepdisrepairReplicasoftheoriginalswerebuiltin1999ThebedsareunusualbecausetheyareraisedndashafeaturethathelpsstoptherootsdrowninginsoddenclaysoilThevarietyisunknownbutwedoknowthattheywereplantedwiththeemphasisonflavourratherthansizeMatthewisconvincedthatasithasanunusualpurpletingetothetipandwhitebaseitmustbeFormbyasparagusfromFormbyinMerseysideWethinkhejustmissesthenorthwestalittlebuttheydobothlovesandysoilsoperhapsheisontosomethingTobeabletocutfreshasparagusfromthecornerofthegardeneverymorningandshareitwithourcustomersisoneofthethingsthatmakesusfeelveryluckytobealiveWechoosetoscattertoastedsesameseedsoverthisdishastheyaddasoftnuttycrunchtoadelicateingredientPeopleareoftenputoffbytheseemingcomplexityofhollandaisesauce

butthemethodoverleafoffersaneasywaytoachieveaconsistentresulteverytimeWeflavouritwithvintagecidervinegarinsteadofthemoretraditionallemonjuiceandfinditaddsanewdepthandaslightlyoakytasteWealsousesaltedbutterratherthanunsaltedOurfavouriteisMarylandwhichisproducedinSheptonMalletrelativelyclosetousandisquitesaltywithroughlytwopercentsaltWefindthatthesaltinessofthebutterbalancestheinherentacidityofthevinegarAlternativelyyoucoulduseanunsaltedbutterandseasontotastewithfineseasalt

SERVES4

2tbspsesameseeds4sprigsoftarragon20asparagusspearstrimmed

FORTHEHOLLANDAISESAUCE

3eggyolks1tbspvintagecidervinegarsuchasOstlerrsquos125gchilledsaltedorunsaltedbuttercutinto1cmcubesseasalt

Firstmakethehollandaisesaucefillasaucepantwo-thirdsfullwithwaterandbringtoarapidboilPuttheeggyolksandvinegarinaheatproofbowlandwhiskforabout1minuteuntilpaleandfluffyTakethepanofboiling

andwhiskforabout1minuteuntilpaleandfluffyTakethepanofboilingwaterofftheheatandsetthebowloveritensuringthebaseofthebowlisnottouchingthewaterQuicklyaddallthebuttertothebowlandwhisksteadilywithaballoonwhiskuntiltheheatfromthewatermeltsthebutterandcookstheeggsAfterafewminutesofconstantgentlewhiskingthehollandaisewillthickenWhenitistheconsistencyofathincustardtakethebowloffthepanandcontinuewhiskinguntiltheconsistencychangestothatofanimmaculatevelvetycustard

ToastthesesameseedsinafryingpanoveralowheatuntiltheyarelightgoldenbrownOncetheybeginbrowningtheycanburnveryeasilysokeepyoureyeonthemandstirregularlyforanevencolourRemovefromthepanandleavetocool

PlacethetarragoninapanlargeenoughtofitasteamerbasketontopAdd7ndash8cmofboilingwaterplaceonamediumheatandputthesteamerbasketonitWhenthewaterissimmeringaddtheasparagustothebasketcoverandsteamfor3ndash4minutesuntilthespearsaretenderbutretainabitofbite

Toserveplacethespearson4servingplatespouroverthehollandaiseandgarnishwiththetoastedsesamePoachedeggs(seehere)wouldmakeaworthyadditiontothisdelightfulstarter

ClearHamHockBrothwithPoachedEggs

ThisbrothisamarvellouslynourishingclearandbalancedliquidToachievesuchclarityweneedtoactlikewaterfollowingthepathofleastresistanceexercisingpatiencewegetwhereweneedandtherewardistwofoldwithstockasclearaswaterfromababblingmountainbrookandasdeepasPoseidonrsquosrealminflavourWhenthepoachedeggyolkisbrokenthedishchangesbeforeyoureyesandanewdepthofrichnessbecomesobvioustothetongueThebrothmustbemadewellinadvanceasithastobefrozensoonafter

its5hoursinthepanandthendefrostedovernightinthefridgeThismayseemalongprocessbutonceyoursquoveexperiencedtherewardsandknowwhatrsquosinstorethenexttimewillbeabreezeYouwillendupwithmorestockherethanyouneedforthisdishbutitkeepswellinthefreezerWecookharicotbeansinitanduseittorehydratedriedmorels(seehere)amongstotherthingsTheonlywaytogetperfectpoachedeggsistouseeggsasnewlylaidas

possibleWithinoneortwodaysisbestsobefriendsomeonewiththeirownpeepofchickensorconsideraidingthecommendableworkofTheBritishHenWelfareTrustbyrehomingsomebatterychickensyourselfandhavingaccesstotrulyfresheggseveryday

SERVES44veryfreshorganiceggscidervinegar150grainbowchardcuthorizontallyinto25cmstrips1lovageleaffinelyslicedseasaltandblackpepper4wildvetchtipsorpeashootstogarnish

FORTHEHAMHOCKBROTH

1hamhock1bayleaf1clove1staranise2peppercorns

2peppercorns2corianderseeds4lovageseeds(orfennelseeds)2parsleystalks100gonionsdiced50gcarrotdiced50gceleriacdiced

FirstmakethebrothWashthehamhockwellundercoldrunningwaterandplaceitinalargepanCoverwithcoldwaterbringtotheboilthenimmediatelydiscardthewaterandrinsethehockoncemoreThiswillremoveimpuritiesthatmightcloudthestocklateronPutthehockbackinthepanfillwithplentyofwatercoveringthehockcompletelyandbringbacktoagoodrollingsimmerAddthebayleafandspicesandsimmerfor2frac12hoursregularlyskimmingoffanyimpuritiesthatrisetothesurfaceTopupwithmorewaterifnecessarytokeepthehockcoveredMakessurethestockissimmeringwellsothetemperatureishighenoughtoextractthegelatinefromthemeat

After2frac12hoursaddthevegetablesandcookforanother2hoursmaintainingahealthyrollingsimmerandtoppinguptheliquidlevelasnecessaryRewardyourpatiencewithalittlesnippetofthemeltinglysofthockonceitisremovedfromitscookingliquorWorththewaitSetthehockasidetocoolalittleandstrainthestockthroughafinesieveintoalargebakingtinndashthewidesurfaceareawillallowittocoolrapidlyWhenthehockiscoolenoughtohandleprisethemeatawayfromthebonesandbreakitintomanageablepiecesLaythesepiecesoutonasimilarshallowtraytocoolquicklythencoverandrefrigerate

Youshouldhaveabout2litresofstockFreezeitin4tubsthenadayortwobeforeyouplantomakethesoupturnout2ofthefrozenblocksandwrapthemin2layersofmuslinPlacetheminasievesetoverabowllargeenoughtoholdthethawedstockthenputtheminthefridgeThegelatineimpuritiesandfatwillstaysolidinthemuslinatfridgetemperaturewhilethestockwillrunclearbelowResisttheurgetosqueezethemuslinitwilldraindryeventuallyThistechniqueyieldsabouthalftheinitialfrozen

weightofstockinfinishedclarifiedstockInourexperiencethisisalittletooconcentratedandwilltakeaboutathirdextrawater

TheeggscanbepoachedinadvanceofservingBringapanofwatertoalightsimmerthenturnofftheheatandleavefor2ndash3minutesThewatercandropaslowas80degCandstillcooktheeggCrackaneggontoalargeslottedspoonandshakeitgentlysothewateryalbumendrainsoffandthetightlyboundalbumenremainsonthespoonGentlydroptheeggintoaramekinandrepeatwiththeremainingeggsputtingeachoneinaseparateramekinSubmergethebaseofeachramekininthehotwaterthenturntheramekinoverandtipouttheeggLettheeggssitundisturbedfor3frac12ndash5minutesdependingonsizeTheaimistocookthewhitewhilekeepingtheyolkrunnyRemovetheeggsusingaslottedspooninthesameordertheywentinandlowerthemintoabowloficedwaterThiswillstopthecookingTheeggscanbepoachedinadvanceandkeptinthefridgefor2days

CommendyourselfasthebuildingofthedishbeginsHeatthebroththroughdilutingittotastewithaboutathirdofitsvolumeinwaterifnecessaryandseasoningwithasplashofcidervinegarandsomesaltTokeepthebrothclearwerecommendreheatingthehockandcookingthechardseparatelyinsimmeringwaterAddthehamtoapanofsaltedwaterandcookatagentlesimmerforaboutaminutethendrainBlanchthechardinthewaterforabout30secondsthendrainwellIfyouhavepoachedtheeggsinadvancereheatthembybringingapanofwatertoasimmerremovingitfromtheheatthendroppingtheeggsinandleavingfor1minuteArrangethehamchardandeggsin4bowlsandgarnishwiththelovageleafandapinchofsaltoneacheggGentlypourthehockbrothoverthemcracksomeblackpepperoverthedishanddresswiththevetchtipsorpeashoots

CaerphillyandCiderWelshRabbit

ThisisastapleatTheEthicureanandthesmellinthemorningastherabbitismadeisintoxicatingServedalongsideapileofMarkrsquossaladleavestheflavoursareacidicsweetsaltyrichandforemostsavouryManyrecipescallfortheinclusionofstoutorporter-stylebeersOursisverymuchaWestCountryaffairandwechoosePerryrsquosMorganSweetcideronaccountofitssweetacidicfruitinessbutanygoodmedium-sweetciderwillsufficeCiderpairsverywellwithCaerphillyWhilebeerwoulddominatethischeesersquoscitrusyandmushroomyearthinessthecidersingsinchorusThesciencebehindusingCaerphillyoramatureCheddarisvery

straightforwardwedonrsquotwantastringyWelshrabbitCheesessuchasEmmentalcontaincaseinmoleculesthatarelinkedbycalciumforminglongfibresndashessentiallythestringinstringycheeseGorwyddrsquoscitrusflavourindicatesahighlevelofaciditywhichremovessomeofthecalciumItsunctuoustexturemeansahighermoisturecontentthatwillseparatecaseinmoleculesAllinallitrsquostheperfectcheeseforrarebitMatureCheddarisagoodalternativeTheripeningenzymesareratherpartialtocaseinandtheydevouritpreventinganylongstring-likefibresforming

SERVES6alargeunslicedwhitetinloaf100gverysoftsaltedbutter(or100gbeefdrippingmelted)150mlmedium-sweetcider100mlsinglecream2tbspvintagecidervinegarsuchasOstlerrsquos2tbspWorcestershiresauce2pinchesofsmokedpaprika250gGorwyddCaerphilly(ifyoucanrsquotgetGorwyddanagedCheddarmakesthebestsubstitute)coarselygrated

2eggyolks(omitifusingCheddar)

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6Cuttheendsoffthewhiteloafandthendividetheloafinto6slicesThethicknessoftheslicesisoneofthefactorsthatmakesthisrabbitsoperfectwithacrunchyexteriorthatgiveswaytoabrilliantlysoftwhiteinteriorUsingapastrybrushlightlybrush

waytoabrilliantlysoftwhiteinteriorUsingapastrybrushlightlybrushtheverysoftbutter(orthemelteddripping)onbothsidesofthebreadPuttheslicesonabakingsheetandbakefor8minutesturningthemoverhalfwaythroughBothsidesshouldbeverylightlygoldenLeaveonawireracktocool

PutthecidercreamvinegarWorcestershiresauceandpaprikainanon-sticksaucepanplaceoveramediumheatandcookstirringregularlyuntilthemixturehasreducedtotheconsistencyofdoublecreamItshouldbeadeepshadeofbrownLowertheheatandaddthecheeseandtheeggyolksifusingStiruntilthecheesehasmeltedthenwhiskthesauceuntilverysmoothandglossyLeavetocoolandthickentoapasteconsistency

SpreadthemixtureedgetoedgeonthetoastedbreadReturnthemtotheovenfor4minutesthenplaceunderahotgrilluntilevenlybrownedEnjoywithageneroushelpingofdressedsaladleavesAsthelocalBristolianswouldsaylsquoGertlushrsquo

daggerRestingbetweenLampeterandAberystwythontheCeredigioncoastlineisGorwyddfarmtheplacewhereone-timearchaeologistToddTrethowandevelopedhisrecipeHebeganhischeesecareerafterlearningfromthegreatWestCountrycheesemakerChrisDuckettFinallyhemovedhiscampervanhomeduringhislsquocheeseapprenticeshiprsquoandreturnedtothefamilyfarmtomakeGorwyddCaerphillyTherearetwodistincttypesofCaerphillythefirstandoldestwasthecheesemadebyhandusingexcessmilkthatwouldhaveotherwiseturnedbadItwasafarmhousecheesetobeeatenafteradayinthefieldsThesecondbringsusbacktoSomersetandtotheCheddarmakerswhodesiredaquick-maturingcheesethatwouldenablehealthycash-flowduringthelongmaturationperiodsoftheirCheddar

SMOKING

HumanshavealwaysbeendrawntothehypnoticandtranquilqualitiesoffireTherearefewthingsthatwelovemorethansittingaroundafirewiththeclosestoffriendsandfamilyputtingtheworldtorightsoverabottleofwineFiresmeansmokeandsmokedfoodwasperhapsaby-product

ofdrying(seealsocuringhere)whenfoodwashungoverfiresandallowedslowlytodrythuspreservingthemeatfromrottingNowadaysfoodsthataretobesmokedundergoapreliminarystepofcuringbeforebeingsmokedSmokingisusedasanadditionalformofpreservationbutnotanessentialoneThesedayssmokingisusedforitsapplicationofflavourTherearetwomethodshotsmokingandcoldsmokingWith

theformerhotsmokefromafireiseitherdirectedintoasealedchamberthathousesfoodorachambercanbedirectlyplacedoversmokinglogsThemaingoalofhotsmokingistocookandpasteurisethemeatTemperaturesinsidethechambersusedtohousethefoodcommonlyreach80ndash110degCColdsmokingasthenamesuggestsusescoldsmoketo

flavourthefoodTraditionalmethodsuseasealedcontainerwithhooksfromwhichtohangfoodhowevertheheatsourceisseparateUsuallythefireishousedinaseparatechamberjoinedtothefoodchamberviasomepipingSmokeescapesfromthefireboxintothepipeandtravelsintothefoodchamberThefurtherthesmoketravelsthemoreitcoolsonitsjourneyThegoalofcoldsmokingwasoriginallytodryfoodGiving

microbeslesswaterinhibitstheirgrowthFoodsusedtobecoldsmokedforlongperiodsoftimeattemperaturessomewherearound20ndash30degChoweverthisposedalargeriskforthesafetyoffoodastheseareperfectconditionsformicrobialactivityCuringsaltswereoftenusedtopreventthisfromhappeningThankstotheinventionofthetrustyfridgetheprimaryreasonforcoldsmoking(preservation)islessimportantandwecannowutiliseitpurelyfortheflavouritadds

utiliseitpurelyfortheflavouritaddsThepointjustbeforewoodignitesistheperfectpointfor

smokingfoodasthisiswhenthetemperatureishighenoughtoremovethemoreunpleasantelementsthatcanbeinthesmokeWoodsmokingatcoolertemperaturescanoftentarnishfoodswithanacridlessfavourableflavourAnyhigherthanthisandthewoodwilligniteSmokingisadelicatebalancingactandtakesskilland

experienceIfyouhaveneverexperimentedwithsmokingbeforethenwerecommendtryingafewofthetechniqueslistedhereBewarnedthatitisanincrediblyaddictivehobbyandonceyoubegintorealisethevariablesanddifferentmethodsitcanbecomeanall-consumingobsessionndashsomethingthatMatthewandIainknowonlytoowellSincetheystartedsmokingwhatevertheycouldlaytheirhandsonthereisoftensomethingsmoulderingawayinthekitchenunderclosescrutinyIaincanoftenbeseenwieldingalargeblowtorchwithaslightlyexhaustedmaniclookinhiseyewhileMatthewtakesafewstepsbackcoveringuphischesthairfromthenakedflameWewillintroduceyoutoafewbasicsmokingmethodsthat

aregreatforthehomesmokerandwewillhighlighttheprosandconsforeachThereareentirebooksdevotedtothisvastandfascinatingsubjectandifthesemethodspiqueyourinterestwecanstronglyrecommendpurchasingone

TincanandsolderingironapproachJackhasexperimentedalotwiththismethodItisoneoftheeasiestandmostaccessibletothehomeuserhoweveritdoeshaveitsdrawbacksFirstthishastobedoneoutsideYouneedatincanthatisnotlacqueredontheinsideoldcondensedmilktinsareperfectPackdrywoodchipsintothecanandatthebaseofthecanonthesidemakeasmallincisionwithascrewdriverndashitshouldbelargeenoughforthetipofasolderingironPlacethetipofthesolderingironintheholeandturnonThenputboththecanandtheironinthebaseofasmallWeber-stylebarbecuewiththebarbecueshelfplacedoverthecanPointthecansothattheopeningisclosetothewallofthebarbecueandawayfromthemeatPlacethefoodyouwanttosmokeonthewireshelfon

themeatPlacethefoodyouwanttosmokeonthewireshelfontheoppositesidetothecanandpoponthelidClosealloftheventsonthebarbecueIfyouaresmokingmeatorfishwerecommenddoingitinhalf-hourincrementsYoucancheckontheinternaltemperatureofthebarbecuewithathermometerTakethemeatouttryalittleandseewhatyouthinkIfyouwantmoresmokethenplacebackinforanother30minutesFoodsthatneedtobecookedbeforetheycanbeeaten(raw

meatfishetc)shouldneverbesmokedformorethanfourhoursbutthenitisveryunlikelythatsmallcutsofmeatorfishwillrequirethislengthofsmokinginanycaseIfsmokingthesetypesoffoodsplacealargebowloficeunderthewirerackontheoppositesidetothecandirectlyunderthefoodstuffThiswillcoolthesmokedownsomemoreIfsmokingforlongperiodsoftimethechipsinthetincanwillneedreplacingevery6ndash8hourstoensureyougetthebestfromthistechniqueSomepeopleadvocatetheuseofacombinationofdampand

drywoodchipsbutwewouldstronglyrecommendifusingthismethodthatyouuseonlydrychipsEventhismethoddoesnotachievehighenoughtemperaturestoburnthemaincarcinogeniccomponentsofsmokeandcombiningdampwoodlowersthepyrolysistemperature(thetemperatureatwhichmoleculesinthewoodarebrokendown)andresultsinevenmoreacridandacidiccomponentsflavouringthefoodIfyouareattemptingthismethodsetupthebarbecuecloseto

adoorwayoronapatioTheoptimumtimeforsmokinglikethisisduringwinterasthecoolertemperaturesmeansaferconditionsIfsmokingonasunnydaythenkeepwellshadedThisisafairlyexperimentalapproachandonethatnottoomanypeopleknowaboutConsideringhoweasyitiswersquodliketogetpeoplehookedonsmokingthroughthesebasictechniquesbeforeencouragingfurtherexperimentationwithsomeofthetechniquesoverleaf

BlowtorchandicemethodAgainthisispracticalforthehomesmokerandallowsplentyofscopeforexperimentationInasmall-to-medium-sizedliddedroastingtrayplacewoodchipsorsawdustononesideofthebaseOntheoppositesideofthetrayplaceabowloficeIgnitethechipsordustthoroughlyusingablowtorchCulinaryblowtorcheswillnotcutthemustardonthisoneastheydonotgiveoffenoughheatyouwillneedaplumberrsquosone(askforacopperbrazingtorchatyourlocalplumbingsupplier)BesurenottobuyatorchthatrunsoffMAPPGasthesecontainadangeroustypeoffuelthatisnotsuitedforculinaryuseStartthewoodsmoulderingbeforeplacingawirerackontop

withthefoodonthencoveringwiththelidWeighdownthelidifitdoesnotformatightsealandleavefor30minutesRemovefromthesmokerandtestthefoodtoseeifitissmokyenoughforyourtasteYoucanalsousedifferenttypesofwoodforthismethodThe

boysinthekitchenhaveexperimentedwithsmokingbutterwithfreshbayleavesNotallofourexperimentshavebeensuccessfulndashinfactsomehavebeenappallingbutyouneverknowuntilyoutryWhilethismethoddoesachieveahottertemperaturethanthetincanitisstillnotaseffectiveatburningcarcinogensandacridcomponentsofsmokeassomeotherslightlymorecomplextechniques

HotpanmethodAlthoughthisessentiallyhotsmokesyourfoodyoucouldtrycombiningitwiththeprevioustechniquendashitsavesbuyinga

combiningitwiththeprevioustechniquendashitsavesbuyingablowtorchHeatupalargepanuntilsmokinghotAddathinlayerofwoodchipsandgetthemsmokingtooDecantthechipsintooneendofaliddedroastingtraywithabowloficeattheotherendFollowingtheremainingstepsforthepreviousmethod

SmokegunmethodAsmokegunisahand-helddevicethathousesasmallchambersimilartothatofasmokingpipeandcontainsafanYouloadthechamberwithsawdustorwoodchipslightthemandthenturnthefanonThefanpullsairthroughthechamberandfeedsoxygentothefireComingoutofthesmokegunisarubbertubethatallowsyoutodirectwhereyouwantthesmoketogoThismethodforthehomeuserisincrediblyeffectivePackthebaseofthechamberwithsawdustandlightuntilsmoulderingWhensmoulderingtopwithwoodchipsofyourchoiceandlightthewoodchipsWhileyoudothisturnthefanonThesmokefromthewoodpassesthroughahotbaselayerofsawdustthatburnsanyacridcomponentsofthesmokeWhatyouareleftwithisessentiallylsquogoodsmokersquothatwillflavouryourfoodinapositivewayTheonlycompanyweknowofthatmanufacturesasmokegunisPolyScienceSmokegunsretailaroundthepound50markandareavailableonlineUltimatelyexperimentingwithfoodandtechniquesshouldbe

funThecarcinogenicnatureofsmokehoweveritcomesisnothealthytohumanbeingssoweadvisetakingcareandlimitingtheamountsofsmokedfoodsyoueatThatsaidsometrulyspectacularflavourscanbeachievedandasalwaysweurgeyoutogetcreativelearnthebasicsandthenplayYoumayjuststumbleacrossacombinationortechniquethatshapesthefutureofcooking

SmokedChipotleChillies

ThechipotlechilliisajalapentildeothathasbeenlefttoripenontheplantitisthensmokedanddriedWealldevelopedaloveforthischillithroughPaucirclawhoregularlyreceivesdriedpackagesofthemfromMexicoHergrandmotherrsquoschipotlepickleisabsolutelyincredibleWesmokethewholechillieswiththeseedsinbutyoucantakethemoutifyoupreferamildersauce

20jalapentildeochillies(oranytypeofripechilli)

Werecommendusingabout15kgoffinewoodchipsndashoakorapplearegoodbutavoidresinouswoodsastheywilltainttheflavour

WhenyouarereadytosmokebeginbywashingthejalapentildeosFollowtheinstructionsforthetincanandsolderingironsmokingmethodonhereArrangethejalapentildeosontheoppositesidetothesmokingcanandthenclosethebarbecuelidIdeallyyouwanttosmokethejalapentildeosfor16hoursuntildarkandcrispEveryfewhourscheckthelevelofwoodinthecanandtopupasappropriateYoucanalsofinishdryingthechilliesinafanovenonabout50degCwiththedoorslightlyajarfan-assistedovensareperfectforthistask(Pleaseconsultoperatinginstructionsndashdisclaimer)StorethecooledsmokedchilliesinanairtightcontainerinacooldryplaceThechilliescanberehydratedinhotwatertheflavourisverystrongsolittleisneeded

SmokedRoeDeerLoinwithWildRocketClampedCarrotsHoneyedWalnutsandWoodSorrel

CuringtheloinmakesthemostofthispreciouscutWealsocoldsmokeitaddingextracomplexitytotheendresultThisstagecanbeleftoutifyoupreferEitherwayyouneedtopreparetheloinwellinadvanceasithastositinthecureforfivedaysTheoakchipsimpartaflavourthatcomplementstheblackcardamoma

spicethattastessmokedbecausethepodsaredriedoveropenflamesThesweetwalnutsbalancethesavourymeatWoodsorrelgrowsincarpetsonthewoodlandfloorandhasacitrustangthataddsacidityItalsogrowsinthedeerrsquoshabitatmakingitaveryfittingadditionindeed

SERVES4WITHPLENTYOFSPARELOINFORTHELARDER

1roedeerloinweighing1kgsilvermembraneremoved(askyourbutchertodothisforyou)

2handfulsofoakchipsforsmoking(orusethesmokegunmethodonhere)200gwildrocketalittlecidervinegar50gHoneyedWalnuts(seehere)2tablespoonswoodsorrel(orcultivatedsorrel)frac12tspfinelychoppedcrushedjuniperberries

FORTHECURE

6staranise6blackcardamompods2tbspjuniperberries1tbspblackpeppercorns35gfineseasalt15gdarkmuscovadosugar

FORTHECARROTANDBLACKCARDAMOMPUREacuteE

4blackcardamompods(seektheseoutinAsiansupermarketsasthesmokinessisveryvaluabletothechef)

200gcarrots(forclampedcarrotsseeopposite)sliced1ndash2tbsphoneyseasalt

Blitzalltheingredientsforthecuretogetherinafoodprocessororspice

BlitzalltheingredientsforthecuretogetherinafoodprocessororspicegrinderLaytheroeloinonalargepieceofclingfilmcoverwiththecuremixtureandrubitinthoroughlyleavingitinanevencoatingTightlywraptheloinintheclingfilmandplaceinthefridgefor5daysturningiteverydayorso

RemovetheloinfromthecuremixandrinseunderacoldtapmakingsureyouwashoffallthespicesHangthemeatinawarmwell-ventilatedarea(awarmpartofthekitchenorintheairingcupboardwilldo)for12hoursoruntilitiscompletelydrytothetouchndashatemperatureof25degCisidealsoadjustthetimeyouhangthemeataccordingly

InthemeantimeprepareyoursmokingboxfollowingtheBlowtorchandIcemethodonhere

PlacetheoakchipstoonesideofthebakingtrayOntheoppositesideplaceabowloficewithawirerackstooddirectlyaboveitPlacetheloinontherackUsingablowtorchheatthechipsstirringwithametalspoontoheatthemevenlyWhenthechipsareproperlyonfirecoverwiththefoilandweightdowntopreventsmokeescapingLeavefor30minutesThetimethattheloinsitsinsmokeisavariablethatcanbeplayedwithIfyoupreferasmokierflavourthenrepeattheprocesswithfreshwoodchipsOnceyouhavesmokedthemeattoyoursatisfactionremovefromthesmokerandchilluntilneeded

ForthecarrotandblackcardamompureacuteehalffillapanwithwateraddthecardamompodsandbringtoasimmerPutthecarrotsinasteamerbasketplaceontopofthepanthencoverandsteamfor35minutesuntilthecarrotsareverytenderindeedPureacuteeinablenderorfoodprocessorMixinthehoneyandsalttotasterememberingthatthisisthesweetcomponentofthisdishThinthepureacuteewithalittleofthesteamingliquorandblendagaintogiveavelvetytextureLeavetocoolthenchilluntilrequired

SlicetheroeloinfinelyatanangletomaximisethelengthofsliceDresstherocketincidervinegaralonethecarrotpureacuteewillprovideamplemoistureandsweetnesssonooilisrequiredPlacetherocketon4servingplatesandarrangetheroeloinwalnutsandsorrelontopthendotteaspoonsofthesmokedandhoneyedcarrotpureacuteethroughoutSprinklethejuniperberriesontoptofinishthissaporificdish

ontoptofinishthissaporificdish

WOODSORREL

OxalisAcetosellaOldEnglishAlleluiaThisdelicate-lookingplanthasaheart-shapedleafwithafolddownthecentrethesecordateleavesoccuringroupsofthreeFlowersappeararoundApriltoMaytheyarelilaccolouredwithdarkerveinsofthesamecolourAsthesundisappearswoodsorrelrsquosamorousleavesfoldtogethertomakeasmalltentshapeAtfirstlighttheyopenonceagainWeareluckytohaveseveralgoodspotsintheWestCountrywherewoodsorrelcanbefoundmoistandshadyplacesintypicallydeciduouswoodsWoodsorrellikestoshelterundermossandbrackenortheoddfallenlogItisalmostlemoninflavourandtheoxalicaciditcontainshastheeffectofstimulatingthesalivatoryglandsDonotpicktherootbutmakesureyoueatthewholestalkaswebelieveittobebettertastingthantheleafitself

CLAMPEDVEGETABLES

Clampingisanage-oldmethodofpreservationItsavestheautumncropofrootvegetablesandhasthebenefitofincreasingflavourandnutrientcontentAsanexamplecarrotswillincreasetheirvitaminAduringsixmonthsofstoringawayfromheatand

lightChefsareeversofondoftheseclampedrootsfortworeasonsTheincreaseinflavourandsweetnessisobviousbutmostimportantlytheyhavevegetablestomakevaluablestocks

throughthemonthsofFebruarytoMay

ToclampcarrotsbeetrootsparsnipsturnipsswedeceleriackohlrabiorpotatoesafewimportantstepsneedbefollowedYou

willneedafrost-freeshedorconcreteflooredgaragesomewoodentraysandagoodquantityofdampsandHarvestby

carefullyforkinguptherootsonadrydayinOctoberPickoutthelargerthick-coredandunblemishedrootsandtrimbackonlytheleavesInthecaseofbeetroottwisttheleavesratherthancuttopreventlsquobleedingrsquoanddonrsquotcutbackanygreencarrottopsastheyneedtoremainwholeRemoveanysoil(rubbingwithsandiseffective)andsendanydamagedorbrokenspecimenstothekitchenpost-hasteLaysandintothewoodentrayandplacetherootsinlayerstessellatingbutnottouchingCoverwithsandandrepeatuntilallarestoredUncovertherootsasneeded

takingcaretocoveranyremainingonesagainAcertainamountofcarrotscanbeleftinthegrounduntilspringpromptstheirgrowthagainbutthereisoftentherisktheymayturnwoodyandcrackIfyourcropwarrantsleavinginthegroundthen

coverwellwithstrawtoeasetheirliftingduringfrostsGiventhebenefitsforflavourandmineralcontentclampingisthebetter

option

HUNTINGDEERWITHALAN

WeregularlystalkwithourfriendAlanHeisahorticulturistacountrymanhereadsthelandscapeandwhispersthenamesofthethingsthatgrowcrawlrunandsingHehasawonderfullyclippedaccentlsquoJackrsquohewillsaylsquoLetrsquosconcentrateonthefirstcourseshallwersquoasthesightofStGeorgersquosmushroomsoftencausesdistractionsonaspringstalkDeeraremostactiveduringdawnandduskmeaningearly

startsandlatefinishesforthestalkerMorningsprovideacrystallinebeautyaswewalkthroughthelastfewfrostsoftheyearEveningsgiveusetherealsunsetsandthechancetowatchthelandsettledownforthenightAllthedeerinourareaareroeTheyareanativeBritishspecies(OldEnglishRaha)andare

spreadwidelyacrossBritainParticularlyinthesouthofEnglandthesedeerwerethoughttohavebeenallbutwipedoutduringtheMiddleAgesTheyarefoundpredominantlyinsmallgroupsoralonealthoughlargergroupswillfeedtogetherduringthewintermonthsRoewillfeedonberriesleavesgrassandyoungshootsTheyparticularlylikeyoungbrambleshootsandnewlycoppicedwoodlandEveninthefailinglightAlanrsquosgrinisperceptibleHenodsto

thesilhouetteofaroebuckasittracestheskylinewithitspin-likelegsitsearsflickingindependentlyWemustwaitforittodisappearoverthebrowofthehillhopingthatitwillprovideaclearshotwithasafebackstopontheothersideAtthistimeroedeerlookprettyscruffytheirwinterpelageisgivingwaytotheirsummercoatofchestnutredMerlinthelabradorisunconcernedbyourpotentialquarrypreferringtopushherlargeheadintothenearestpalmforascratchTheroebuckhassteppeddownfromtheskylineandhas

presenteditselfbroadsidewithasafebackstopforashotFromourpositionbodiespressedagainstthegroundwecanseethebuckleanforwardandtastetheairitslipsseekingawarningscentAlanstopsforaninstanttakesaimandslipsthesafetycatchbackBeforethebuckhasachancetoturnthereisabanganditfallstotheground

CurdCheeseCucumberFlatBeanAniseedandSesame

AccordingtotheBritishCucumberGrowersAssociationifallthecucumbersgrownintheBritishseasonwerelaidendtoendtheywouldgoalmostrightroundtheworldYetdespitethegreatnumberavailabletousaswithalotoffruitandvegetablesmostcucumbersareflowninfromEuropeorbeyondItseemsashamewhentherealityisthattheyarerelativelyeasytogrowintheUKHavingsaidthatgrowingcucumberscommerciallytakesalotofskillThecropsaresusceptibletodamagefrompestsmakingthemdifficulttogroworganicallyTheorganiccucumberswegetcomefromTheCommunityFarmwheretheteamensuresthatwearerarelyshortofseasonalproduceTheirlocationinChewMagnajust7milesawayisverygoodnewsforusOtherthanaquickcucumberpickleandadressingthissaladismadeto

orderhighlightingthewayfreshproduceatitsbestmarksthestartofaproductivesummerHerewemakeuseofcucumberandflatbeansbothofwhichgrowsplendidlyearlyinourglasshousesThesewillbeavailableforthosegrowingoutdoorsinlatespringtoearlysummerTheaniseeddressingworksharmoniouslywiththejuicycucumberanddelightfullysweetflatbeans

SERVES4100gflatbeanschopped1tspsesameseeds3youngcucumbers1tspaniseed(orfennelseeds)100mlcidervinegar100gcastersugar8tbspewersquoscurd(orgoatrsquoscurdorafreshyoungcheese)50gcheeserindtheolderanddrierthebetterfinelygrated(therindofunwaxedewersquosmilkcheeseisideal)

fineseasalt12borageflowersandafewwatercressleavestogarnish

FORTHEWATERCRESSDRESSING

70mlbuttermilk(ifunavailablestir1tspvinegarinto65mlmilkandleavefor5minutes)

35gmayonnaise(seePaprikaMayonnaiseonhereifyouwouldliketomakeitfromscratchomittingthepaprika)abunchofwatercressstalks

mustardpowderseasalt

Blanchtheflatbeansinfast-boilingsaltedwaterfor2minutesuntiljusttenderthendrainandleaveinicedwaterToastthesesameseedsinadryfryingpantilltheyturngoldenthentipthemoutofthepanontoaplatetopreventburningCutonecucumberinto5mmdiceandsprinkleliberallywithsaltLeavetodraininasievefor20ndash30minutestogivethefinishedpickleacrunchHeattheaniseedinadrypantillitspitsandcracklesTakethepanofftheheatcarefullyaddthevinegarandthenstirinthesugaruntildissolvedAllowthistocoolsomewhatwhileyourinsethesaltfromthecubedcucumberPutthecubesinabowlandcoverwiththewarmvinegarmixtureLeavetocoolThiswillkeepinthefridgefor5daysshouldyouchoosetomakeitinadvance

TomakethedressingputalltheingredientsinablenderkeepingbackafewofthewatercressstalksandpulseuntilthestalksareveryfinelychoppedThemixtureshouldbenothickerthansinglecreamandabeautifulpalegreencolourTasteandaddmoreofthestalksshouldyouwanttoincreasethatfreshgreenpeppertastefromthemustardoilwithinSeasonwithsaltandsetaside

Trimtheendsand2longsidesfromtheother2cucumbersandpeelintostripswithaY-shapedvegetablepeelerndashoronamandolineshouldyouwantsuper-tidyslicesLaytheseoneachservingplatecurlingthestripsoveranddresswithalittlefineseasaltSpoonscoopsofewersquoscurdandrolltheminthegratedcheeserindPlacetheseamongstthestripsofcucumberAddafewcubesofpickledcucumberandateaspoonoftheaniseedmarinadetoeachplateScattertheflatbeansovertheplatesandthenspoonoverthewatercressdressingFinishwiththedelicateblueborageflowersafewsmallwatercressleavesandthetoastedsesameseedsMarvellouscoloursandtidyonthetastebuds

CrabSaladwithNewPotatoesPickledCarrotand

SmokedPaprikaMayonnaise

WehaveoftenwonderedwhycrabmeatisnotmorepopularinBritainnowadaysMostcrabcaughtinBritishwatersissentstraighttoEuropewhereitisinhighdemandPerhapswesimplydonrsquotknowhowtocookthemlessstillhowtoeatthemAdmittedlypreparingawholecrabtakespracticeandcanbeamessyandtime-consumingaffairHoweverifyousurroundyourselfwithagroupoffriendsfurnishyourselveswithagoodloafofbreadandacoupleofbeveragespreferablyofthealcoholicvarietyyouwillseehowmuchfunitistopractiseThenativebrowncrabisdeliciousandthespidercrabrankshigherthanlobsterintasteformanyusincludedItistrulyadoredinSpaincommandingthehighestshellfishpricesIfyouneedmoregoodreasonstoeatBritishcrabmeatrememberthatitisrelativelyinexpensiveandhasbettersustainabilitycredentialsthanmostfishyoufindinthesupermarketThequantitiesgivenforthesmokedpaprikamayonnaisemakemorethan

youneedforthisrecipebutitisveryversatileServeitwithothersaladssmokedfishandasageneralsubstituteforboughtmayonnaiseWeguaranteethatittopsanythingyoucanbuyinashop

SERVES4200gnewpotatoesscrubbedcleanandcutinto5cmchunks1livebrowncrabor2livespidercrabs200gspringsaladleaves80mlTheEthicureanSaladDressing(seehere)afewpinchesofgroundmacebronzedillorfennelfronds100gPickledCarrots(seehere)afewedibleflowers(optional)

FORTHESMOKEDPAPRIKAMAYONNAISE

1largefree-rangeeggyolkfrac12tbsphoneyfrac12tbspDijonmustardfrac12tbspsmokedpaprika

1tspfineseasaltabout450mlrapeseedoil1tbspcidervinegar

FirstmakethemayonnaiseUsingastickblenderelectricwhiskorfreestandingelectricmixercombinetheeggyolkhoneymustardpaprikaandsaltWhiskonfullspeedfor30secondsoruntilsmoothWiththewhiskorblenderrunningonfullspeedveryslowlystartaddingtheoilAfterathirdoftheoilhasbeenmixedinaddthevinegarthencontinueinthesamefashionwiththerestoftheoilBesuretopourinaveryfinesteadystreamtobeginwithifyouaddtoomuchoilearlyonthemayonnaisewillsplitAstheoilisbeingincorporatedthemayonnaiseshouldstarttothickentoathickorangey-redemulsion(youmaynotneedalltheoil)Checkthetasteandseasonwithmoresaltandvinegarifnecessary

Cookthepotatoesinboilingsaltedwateruntiltenderthendrainandleavetocool

CookandpreparethecrabsasdescribedoverleafPlacesomeofthesaladleaveson4servingplateswiththepotatoesAddmoreleavesintertwiningthemwiththecrabmeatDresseachlayerasyougowithsaladdressingwhiletryingtomaintainheightinthedishtokeepitlookingattractiveTheclawsofthecrablookgreatwhenextractedwholesocombinethesewiththeflakedwhitecrabmeatforextravisualappealSpoononasmuchofthesmokedpaprikamayonnaiseasyouwishthenfinishwithafewpinchesofmacethebronzedillorfennelfrondspickledcarrotsandanyedibleflowersyoumayhaveServeimmediately

PREPARINGCRAB

HowtocookacrabThefirststepincookingacrabisknowinghowtokillit

humanelyOurheadchefMatthewwhoworkedformanyyearsasafishmongerisconvincedthattheonlywaytodothisistoputthecrabinthefreezerfor2hoursorsofirstTheeffectistonumbthecrabandensurethatthepainisminimisedwhenitiskilledWhenyoutakethecraboutofthefreezerturnitonitsbackliftthetailawayandlocatethedimplerightinitscentreTakeasharpskewerorothersharpthinimplementandpushitthroughthedimplethenasitmeetsthetopshellmoveitfromsidetosideDothesamebetweenthecrabrsquoseyespushingthe

skewerthroughandeasingitfromsidetoside

ThecrabshouldbecookedimmediatelyafterkillingItwillneed15minutesperkilograminalargepanofwell-saltedboiling

waterndashweallowatablespoonofsaltperlitreIfyouarecookingtwocrabscalculatethetimebasedontheirindividualratherthan

combinedweight

Howtoprepareacookedcrab1Turnthecrabonitsbackandtwistoffitslegsandclaws

2SeparatethetopshellfromthebottomshellbyplacingyourfingerunderthetopofitstailPullbothshellsapartusinga

heavyspoontocrackalongthelinethatisthereifitdoesnrsquotcomeawayeasily

awayeasily

3NowdonrsquotbeputoffbywhatyouseewhentheshellisfullyopenYouwillneedtodoabitoftidyingupbeforeyouareabletoappreciatethefullpotentialofthiscrustaceanStartbygettingridofthepointygreypiecesofmeatintheshell(calleddead

manrsquosfingers)andthebonybitsTheseareallinedibleYouwillneedtoremovethestomachsacjustbehindtheeyesandmouthtooThecreamybrownmeattoeithersideoftheheadisfor

somethetastiestandmostsupremelyediblesodonrsquotdiscardit

4UsingaskewerorsometweezersyounowneedtoremovethewhitemeatfromthemiddlepartofthebodyThisiswherethefirstglassofyourbeverageofchoicewillcomeinhandyastheprocessdoestakesometimeSopouryourselfadrinkandstartbycuttingthebodyintwosoitiseasiertoaccessthemeatinsideCarefullyremoveallthewhitemeatfromtheshellWhatmakesthistaskquitelaboriousisthatsomeofthedesirablewhite

meatisattachedtohardbonysectionsanditisdifficulttodifferentiatebetweenthetwoBepatient

5FinallycracktheclawsopenDIYtoolswillprobablybemoreeffectivethankitchenutensilsherendashasmallhammerworkswelloryoucouldtrythebackofaheavyknifeExtractasmuchwhitemeataspossiblewithyourtweezersorskeweranddonrsquotforgettoopenthewholeoftheclawThereismuchpreciousmeatinthelowerpartsoftheclawwhichisoftenforgottenaboutDothesamewiththelegsWithpracticethewholeprocesswilltake

youlessandlesstimeandweguaranteeitwillneverceasetobeenjoyable

SpringRadisheswithAnchovyCregravemeFraicircche

ThissimpleanchovydippairsbeautifullywithfreshradishesWeliketositaroundeatingthisinthegardenonasunnyspringeveningwhiledrinkingaglassofLimney(afantasticorganicwineproducedinSussex)andenjoyingthefirstrealwarmthoftheyearWhatrsquosgreataboutradishesisthatastheweatherbeginstowarmsodoestheirinherentfiery-pepperiness

SERVES4ndash62bunchesofradishes

FORTHEANCHOVYCREgraveMEFRAIcircCHE

alittlerapeseedorgroundnutoil1springonionfinelysliced

1springonionfinelysliced1headofwetgarlicfinelysliced(or2clovesofdriedgarlic)35gmarinatedwhiteanchovyfilletsfinelychopped75mlcregravemefraicirccheseasaltandblackpepper

HeatasplashofoilinasmallfryingpanaddthespringonionandgarlicandfryoveramediumheatuntilsoftAddtheanchoviesandcookforacouplemoreminutesTransferthemixturetoasmallbowlandleavetocoolStirinthecregravemefraicirccheandseasontotaste

ThoroughlycleantheradishesandtheirleaveskeepingtheleavesattachedHoldingtheleavesallowsyoutodiptheradishesintotheanchovysaucebeforebitingthemcleanofftheirgreeneryTherearefewsimplerormoredeliciouswaystoenjoythesepepperydelights

TroutwithKelpandShiitakeMushroomStockRiceFlatBeansandSeaKale

FindingthebestlocalingredientsisoneofthemostrewardingtasksforusatTheEthicureanSoweweredelightedwhenTessaTrickspartoftheEthicureanfamilydescribedhowcommittedherfatherwastofishinginthelocalareaHerfamilyrsquosfreezerwewereinformedwasalwaysuptomaximumcapacitywithrainboworbrowntroutcaughtinthenearbyChewValleyorBlagdonLakesItwasnosurprisetohearthattheyreferredtotroutaslsquotheTrickrsquosfamilycurrencyrsquoCharlieTricksstartedfishingattheageof10intheRiverYeoHenowpreferstofishatthebanksofthelakeashecanmovearoundandchoosehisspotBankfishingismoreofachallengebutthisaddstotheexcitementwhenyoudoeventuallysucceedincatchingsomethingworthcookingTheTrickseattroutatleastonceaweekandhavedevelopedan

impressivecatalogueofrecipesovertheyearsItwasourtasktoofferthemsomethingnewthatwouldfitwithourmenuThisreciperequirestwoJapanese-stylestockswhichneedpreparingadayinadvanceUnlikeEuropeanstockswhichoftenrequirelongcookingJapanesestocksarequicklukewarm-waterpreparationsthatuseumami-richingredientssuchasmushroomsdriedfishandseaweeds(seehereformoreaboutlsquoumamirsquo)ThesimplicityfreshnessandseasonalityofJapanesefoodarequalitiesthatweoftentrytoreplicateKelpisfrequentlyusedinJapanesestocksandinthisinstanceweusednativekelpdriedinaverylowovenYoushouldbeabletofindkelplabelledaskombuinorientalmarketsandhealthfoodstoresWhenCharlieandhisfamilytriedthisdishweworriedthatthedelicate

ingredientsaccompanyingthefishwouldnotstanduptoitbutthetablewasalivewithtalkofribonucleotidesinmushroomsguanylatecompoundsinumamiandseaweedstocksBytheendoftheirdinnertheTrickswerecommittedtoattemptingbriningathome

SERVES4300gbasmatirice40gseasalt1rainbowtroutweighing800gndash1kgfilletedwithpinbonesremoved6tbspmirin(ricewine)

6tbspmirin(ricewine)100gonionsfinelydiced50gceleriacfinelydiced50gwhitemushroomsfinelydiced2staranise1tspfennelseeds200gflatbeanstrimmedandcutinto2cmslices500gseakale(orkale)stalksremovedcutinto3cmstrips

FORTHEMUSHROOMSTOCK

50gdriedwholeshiitakemushrooms(theready-sliceddriedonesaremuchstrongersoreduceto10gifthatiswhatyouhave)FORTHEKELPSTOCK

20gdriedkelp(kombu)

Firstpreparethestocks(seeingredientsoverleaf)Forthemushroomstockwashthedriedshiitakethensoakin600mlcoldwaterovernightinaglassormetalbowlDonrsquotworryifyourkitchensmellsasifthereisagasleakthepungentshiitakewillbethecauseThefollowingdaystrainthestockthroughapieceofmuslinandchill

RinsethedriedkelpofanysandorresidueinabowlofcoldwaterBebriefsoasnottoloseitsconcentratedflavourPut12litreswaterinasaucepansetitoveralowheatandlookoutfortinybubblesappearingonthebaseofthepanTurnofftheheataddthekelpthencoverthepanandleaveforanhourswitchingtheheatonagainfor3minuteshalfwaythroughtomaintainthetemperatureIfyouhaveathermometerthetemperatureshouldholdcloseto60degCAnythinghigherwillreleasesulphurcompoundsiodineandaldehydesfromthekelpwhichwilltaintthesweetanddelicatestockStrainthestockthroughmuslinleavetocoolthenchill

Combinethe2stocksthenmeasureout750mlSetbothportionsofstockaside

WashthericeinasieveunderplentyofcoldrunningwaterTheaimistoremoveallthestarchsokeepgoinguntilthewaterrunscompletelyclearThismaytake10minutesormorebutgivesperfectriceeverytimeifthisstepisfollowedStirthericerubbingitgentlywithyourfingertipstoloosen

stepisfollowedStirthericerubbingitgentlywithyourfingertipstoloosenanyremainingstarchthenleavetodrainBasmatiwillabsorboneandaquartertimesitsweightinwaterduringcookingEvenifyoudonrsquotpossessaricesteamerbeautifulfluffyricecanbeachievedwithasaucepanandwell-fittinglidPutthedrainedriceintoafairlywidepanadd375mlwaterthencoverandsetaside

Tomakeabrineaddthe40gseasalttothe750mlmixedstockandstiruntilithasdissolvedCutthetroutfilletsinto4evenportionspersideAddthesetothebrineandrefrigerateforprecisely20minutesthendrainInthemeantimeheattheremainingstocktoasimmerandthentasteitItwillbeeversosubtleanddelicatebutyourtonguewillregistersomethingspecificsomethingcomplexyethardtopindownTheelusiveumamitastetheessenceofJapanesecookingispresentyetverydelicateAddthemirinandthenaddsaltapinchatatimeTasteagainandnoticehowthesweetnessandsalthaveaddeddepthSeasongraduallyuntilyouarepleasedwiththebalance

PutthepanofriceoverahighheatandwatchforittocometotheboilThemomentitdoesaddateaspoonofsaltandstirCoverthepantightlyandreducetheheattolowCookfor10minutesresistingthetemptationtopeerintothepanTheideaistotrytomimicaricesteamersothesteamneedstobetrappedbythelidAfter10minutesturntheheatoffbutleavethelidonforafurther10minutesContinuetoresistthetemptationtopeerin

Heattheovento120degCGasMarkfrac12BoilakettleandpourthewaterintoadeepbakingtraytoadepththatwillcoverthefishfilletscomfortablyAddtheonionsceleriacmushroomsstaranisefennelseedsandthedrainedfishfilletsPlaceintheovenandleavefor10minutes

Blanchtheflatbeansinapanofboilingsaltedwaterfor2minutesandtheseakaleinaseparatepanfor1minutethendrainRunaforkoverthericetoloosentheperfectlycookedfluffygrainsthendivideitbetween4servingbowlsandarrangethegreensarounditThefishwillbedelicatelypoachedbythispointPutthefishfilletsontopofthericeandpourtheclearstockaroundtheoutsideAfive-stagepalatepleaserforcertain

FRESHWATERFISH

Beingisland-dwellerswehavebeenexposedtomorewaterwaysthanmanyotherplacesaroundtheworldandwehavehadthetimeandopportunitytodevelopbetterfishingpracticesInrecentyearsfreshwaterfishhasbeenlabelledashavinganunsavourymuddyqualitytoitThisisnotatotallyunfoundedcommentespeciallyifthefishcomesfromhighsiltcontentwatersthatarerelativelystagnantGiventhestrainthatthefishingindustryisimposingonthemarineenvironmentthoughfreshwaterfishingisagoodsustainablealternativeMoreovernotallfreshwaterfishtastemuddyTroutinseasonforexampledoesnotIfcaughtshortlybeforeorafteritsbreedingperiodthefisharefullofmiltoreggswhichwillmakethemdeceptivelylargerinappearanceandcontributetothatlsquomuddyrsquoorlsquogrittyrsquotasteBewarned

Welikethefactthatthetroutwehaveonourmenucomesfromamanwhohasbeenfishinginthelocalareaforover50yearsWeareconvincedthathisexperienceandknowledgetricklesdowninsomeformorotherandleadstoabetterdishWhenweaskedhimhowfishinginthelocalareahadchangedovertheyearshebelievedthebiggestdifferencetobeintheflyvariationFortyyearsagolargenumbersofbigredsedgeflieswhichthetroutdevouredwerecommonlyseeninmidsummerNowadayssedgesaremuchsmallersothetroutismoredifficulttoenticeNodoubtthisaddstothechallengeandmakesitevenmoreworthwhiletogetacatch

GoatMeatballsMashLovageButterandMustardGreens

BeforewefoundtheWalledGardenweusuallyategoatrsquosmeatonlyatStPaulrsquosCarnivalinthecentreofBristolTherulewasthatwewouldlocatethestallswiththelongestqueuesanddevourasmanyCaribbeancurriesasnecessaryinourquesttofindthebestItwasatthiscalypso-infusedeventthatwehadourannualintakeofsucculentgoatrsquosmeatGoatrsquosmeatwascommonplaceintheUKuntilthemid-seventeenth

centuryNowmostofitisimportedfromeasternEuropeoffthebackofthedairyindustrythereandisrarelyfreerangeThemeatiscertainlyflavoursomebutittendstobetoughwhichmeansthatslowcookingisessentialFromanethicalpointofviewusingwhatwouldotherwisebeaby-productofthedairyindustrymakesperfectsenseManyfarmersseethemalekidsasadrainontheirresourcesOncetheyareborntheyservenopurposesotheyhavetobekilledThisseemsaterriblewasteconsideringtheenergydevotedtobreedingthemOurgoatrsquosmeatsupplierisCabritobasednearWellington(seealsoourCheeseboardhere)ItdoesnotbreedgoatsspecificallytosellonInsteaditbuysthebilliesfromsmall-scalefarmersraisesthemasfree-rangemeatandsellsthemtorestaurantsItrsquosworthaskingyourlocalbutcherwhethertheycantrackdownsomeBritishgoatrsquosmeatWehavenodoubtthatitwillbegintobecomemorepopularandmoreeasilyavailablesoonItwouldbefantasticifin50yearstimeafoodhistorianwroteofthereturnofgoatrsquosmeattotheBritishdietinthefirstpartofthetwenty-firstcenturyTheresponsewehavehadfromcustomerstothisdishhasbeen

overwhelmingthoughnotsurprisingthemeatissucculentandsweetitishighinproteinandironandcontainslessfatthanporkbeeforlambWefindthatmostpeopleareintriguedbythesemeatballsandwanttoknowmoreaboutgoatrsquosmeat

SERVES450gbread1frac12tspsalt1tsplovageseeds(ifnotavailableomitthesaltanduse1frac12tspcelerysalt)1tspcoarselygroundblackpepper

1tspcoarselygroundblackpepperfrac12tspdriedchilliflakes1tspcuminseeds550ggoatrsquosmeatfinelyminced1largeegglightlybeatenrapeseedoil50gonionfinelydiced25gcarrotslicedintohalfmoons25gceleriacfinelydiced250mlbrownchickenstock(seehere)200mlmedium-sweetciderabunchoflargemustardgreenscutintostrips2ndash3cmwidefrac12tspEnglishmustardValorPotatoMash(seehere)toserveseasalt

FORTHELOVAGEBUTTER

100mlbrownchickenstock(seehere)2tsplovageseeds(orahandfuloflovageleaves)75mlwhitewine3eggyolks185gcoldunsaltedbuttercutinto1cmcubesadashofvintagecidervinegarsuchasOstlerrsquos

Heattheovento180degCGasMark4BlitzthebreadsaltandspicesinablenderorfoodprocessortomakefinecrumbsPuttheminabowladdthemincedgoatrsquosmeatandeggandmixthoroughlyDividethemixtureinto12andshapeintoballsIthelpstorubalittlecookingoilontoyourhandstostopthemeatsticking

Heatalittlerapeseedoilinasmallsaucepanaddtheonioncarrotandceleriacthencoverandsweatoveralow-mediumheatuntilthevegetablesarebeginningtosoftenRemovefromtheheatandsetaside

PutthemeatballsinadeepbakingtininwhichtheyjustfitinasinglelayerPouroverthechickenstockandciderandaddthesoftenedvegetables

PouroverthechickenstockandciderandaddthesoftenedvegetablesCoverwithfoilplaceintheovenandroastfor30minutesTakeoffthefoilandroastfor10minuteslongeruntilthemeatballsarenutbrownincolourwheretheysitabovetheliquid

Meanwhilemakethelovagebutterputthestocklovageseedsandwineinasaucepanandboiluntilreducedbytwo-thirdsitsvolume(ifusingfreshlovageadditaftertheliquidhasreducedandleavetoinfusefor20minutes)StrainthemixturethroughafinesieveintoaheatproofbowlandallowtocoolslightlyWhiskintheeggyolksPlacethebowloverapanofsimmeringwatermakingsurethewaterdoesnottouchthebaseofthebowlWhiskuntilthemixturebecomesthickandairyAtthispointstartwhiskinginthebutteronecubeatatimewaitinguntilithascompletelymeltedbeforeaddingthenextpieceAfterafewpiecesofbutterhavebeenaddedyoucanstartadding2or3cubesatatimeThemorebutteryouincorporatethemoreyoucanaddeachtimeSeasontotastewithseasaltandadashofcidervinegarifyouwish

PlaceafryingpanoveramediumheatWhenitishotaddafilmofrapeseedoilfollowedbythemustardgreensmustardandsalttotasteCookstirringfrequentlyuntiltheleaveshavewilted

Servethemeatballsimmediatelywiththemashwiltedgreensandlovagebutter

daggerWhenweresearchedtheeatingofgoatmeatinthiscountrywefoundthatitwascommonplaceuntilabout1650LuciusColumellatheprominentRomanagriculturalwriterrecommendedthatevensickgoatswouldbefitforhumanconsumptioniftheyweresaltedanddrycuredIntheElizabethanerathephysicianThomasMoufetmaintainedthatoldgoatsshouldbeeatenbytenderisingthemBycontrastroastkidwasafavouriteseventeenth-centuryspringtimedishIntheeighteenthcenturytheWelshnaturalistThomasPennantreportedthatkidswerealsquocheapandplentifulprovisioninthewintermonthsrsquowhiledriedandsaltedgoathaunchesknownaslsquohungvenisonrsquowereeateninsteadofbaconInhisbookofBritishzoologyheclaimedlsquoThismakesanexcellentpastygoesunderthenameofrockvenisonandislittleinferiortothatofdeerThusnatureprovidesevenonthetopsofhighandcraggymountainsnotonlynecessariesbutdelicaciesfortheinhabitantsrsquo(BritishZoology1776)

OxTonguewithSwedeParsleyandCiderVinegar

TongueshouldberegardedunsqueamishlyasanexcellentcutofmeatsuitableforuseinadiverserangeofdishesInVictoriantimesitcertainlywouldhavemadeanappearanceonthecoldtableOnecombinationthatdatesbacktothefourteenthcenturydescribedbyDorothyHartleyaslsquoalwayspopularwiththemenfolkrsquowasarichthickandcreamymustardsaucepouredoverslicesofoxtongueThisrecipeandthefollowingonerequireyoutobrineyourowntongue

PatiencereallyisavirtueinthiscaseaweekofbriningfollowedbyacomparativelyshorttimeinthepotandyouareleftwithadeliciouspieceofmeatTongueisgreatinsaladsinasandwichorroastedwithvegetablesWecouldgoon

SERVES4WITHLEFTOVERS

1oxtongue200gswedepeeledandcutinto25cmcubes5staranise50mldoublecreamabunchofradishesfinelysliced50gflat-leafparsleyleavesrapeseedoilalittlecidervinegarseasaltsmokedseasalttoserve(optional)

FORTHEBRINE

200gcastersugar300gseasalt6juniperberries3cloves3staranise6blackpeppercorns6lovageseeds(orfennelseeds)2bayleaves

2bayleaves

FORCOOKINGTHETONGUE

100gonionfinelydiced50gcarrotfinelydiced50gceleriacorceleryfinelydiced10parsleystalks2bayleaves10peppercorns4staranise2cloves

Putalltheingredientsforthebrineinalargesaucepanadd2litresofwaterandbringtotheboilstirringoccasionallytodissolvethesugarandsaltRemovefromtheheatandleavetocoolthenplaceinthefridgeandchilluntilthetemperatureisbelow5degCPutthetongueinthebrineandweightitdownwithanon-reactiveitemndashsomethingwoodenplasticorceramicwilldothetrickMakesurethetongueiscompletelysubmergedCoverandleaveinthefridgeforaweek

Drainandrinsethetonguethenputitinalargesaucepanwith2litresofwaterandalltheingredientslistedforcookingthetongueBringtoasimmercoverandcookverygentlyfor4hourscheckingthewaterlevelhourlyandtoppingitupasnecessaryRemovethetonguefromitscookingliquorandleaveuntilcoolenoughtohandlethenpeelitItisimportanttopeelitwhileitisstillwarmotherwisethefatssolidifymakingthistaskmuchmoredifficult

TocooktheswedeplacethestaraniseinasaucepanaquarterfullofwaterandsetasteamerbasketoverthetopBringtoasimmerPlacetheswedeinthebasketcoverandsteamfor35ndash40minutesuntiltenderTransfertheswedetoablenderorfoodprocessoraddthecreamandblitzuntilcompletelysmoothSeasonwithsaltandleavetocool

Thinlysliceabout200gofthetongueSpoontheswedepureacuteeonto4servingplatesandtopwiththetongueslicedradishesandparsleyLightlydrizzlealittlerapeseedoilovertheparsleyandfinallyaddafewsplashesofcidervinegarandasprinklingofsmokedsaltifyouhaveit

cidervinegarandasprinklingofsmokedsaltifyouhaveit

daggerInEnglandtheuseofoxencastratedmalesbothfordraftpullingcartsandploughingandforbeefwasoncegeneralpracticeFourpairsofoxenwouldpullaplougheachanimalagedwithayearbetweenStaggeringthepairsmeantthateachyeartwowouldbefattenedforbeefandsoldthuspayingtheirwayTheEnclosuresActsofthelateeighteenthandearlynineteenthcenturieswhichreducedfieldsizeshastenedtheendoftheoxrsquosuseastheteamsofeightneededenoughspacetoturnattheendofeachfurrowBythebeginningofthetwentiethcenturythemorehigh-maintenancehorsewasfavouredforitsspeedandmanoeuvrabilityandeventuallyreplacedthedependableoxTodaywearenoteatingthedraftcattlethatourancestorswouldhaveknownbutinfactbeefcattleandinsomecasescalves

OxTonguewithCauliflowerGilliflowerandHazelnuts

InherbookFoodandDrinkinBritainCAnneWilsonreferstothepracticeofeatingtonguewithgilliflowersmorecommonlyknownascarnationsTheyhaveaflavourthatverycloselyresemblescloveThispairinghasbeenallbutforgottenaboutApparentlyifawitchtriestokillyouyoushouldhandheraredcarnationasshewillhavetocountthepetalsgivingyouenoughtimetofinishyouroxtongueandgilliflowerdinnerandescapeanynastyspells

SERVES41cauliflowerdividedintoflorets2tbspplainflourfrac14tspgroundcloves2eggslightlybeatenwithapinchofsalt30gbutter200goxtonguebrinedandcookedasintherecipeonherethencutinto12slices50ghazelnutstoastedinadryfryingpanandthendustedwithfrac14tsp

groundcinnamon1tablespoonroastedcobnutoil(orwalnutoil)

FORTHEGILLIFLOWERSYRUP

abunchoforganiccarnations(besuretouseonesthathavenrsquotbeensprayed)100mlcidervinegar100gicingsugarplus2tbsp

YouwillneedtopreparethegilliflowersyrupafewdaysinadvanceCutthepetalsfrom3carnationsandputtheminabowlCoverwiththecidervinegarandthenstirinthe100gicingsugarWeightdownwithaplateandsetasidefor3daysatroomtemperature

Onthedayyouwanttoservethesaladtrimthepetalsfrom2flowerheadsrinsethemandspindryinasaladspinnerDrythepetalsonateatoweltocatchthelastdropsofmoisturepreventinganyflavourlossStrainthegilliflowersyrupandtasteitTherewillbenotesofcloveandpepperthoughitmayneedsweeteningalittlefurtherwithicingsugartomellowthevinegarSet2tablespoonsofthesyrupasideaddingthe2tablespoonsoficingsugartoitReservethistocaramelisetheoxtonguebeforeserving

Cookthecauliflowerfloretsinlightlysimmeringsaltedwaterforabout10minutesuntilaldenteDraincoolinice-coldwateranddrainagainverythoroughlyMixtheflourwiththegroundclovesDustthecauliflowerfloretsinthismixtureandthendipthemintothebeateneggsHeatthebutterinafryingpanandfrythecauliflowerinitinsmallbatchestillgolden

Afterfryingthecauliflowercleanoutthepanwithkitchenpaperandplaceitoveramedium-highheatBrushtheoxtonguesliceswiththecaramelisingsyrupandplaceinthehotpanCookwithoutmovingthemuntilyoucanseethembrowningattheedgesthenturnandcolourtheothersidetoo

Assemblethedishbyarrangingthecaulifloweroxtongueandpetalson4servingplatesDropthecinnamon-dustedhazelnutsontopanddresswiththegilliflowersyrupandroastedcobnutoil

SaltMarshLambwithTidalGreens

InEnglandthebenefitsofsalt-marshgrazinghavebeenknownsincethethirteenthcenturyyetformanyyearsthevastmajorityofthemeathasbeenexportedtoFrancewhereitisrecognisedasadelicacyInEnglishFood(MichaelJoseph1974)JaneGrigsonwrotelsquoPeoplelivingaroundRomneyMarshhelliphavetolookacrossatflocksofsheepfeedingonthesaltmarshesandknowthatthemeatwillbypasstheirbutchersandbeservedtotouristsinNormandyBrittanyandParisasagneaupreacute-saleacutespecialiteacutedelamaisonpricetomatchrsquoHoweversaltmarshlambisonceagainbecomingavailablehereFarmerswithcoastalpasturebringtheirflocktotheseamarshesinspringwhentheweatherimprovessothesheepcangrazeclosetothewaterrsquosedgefeedingonseavegetationsuchassamphiresorrelsealavenderandthriftWetookaforagingcoursethatambledthroughthesaltmarshonthe

SevernwherethelambwebuyfortherestaurantgrazeWelearnedaboutedibleseagrassesseakaleandseabeetandrealisedthatwehadsomenewgreenstoservealongsidethisprimelambshoulderWealsoserveitwithfathenacommonplantoftenconsideredtobeaweedwhichgrowsingardensroadsidevergesandhedgerows

SERVES6ndash81tinofanchoviesdrained1shoulderofsaltmarshlambbonedweighingabout2kgrapeseedoil4onionscutintoquarters4largecarrotspeeledbutleftwhole4spearsofrosemaryabunchofparsley1headofgarliccutinhalfthroughitsequator200mldryvermouth1kgnewpotatoesaknobofbutterasmallbunchofmintchopped

FORTHESALTMARSHGREENS

abunchofseaarrowgrassorPickledSamphire(seehere)abunchofseaarrowgrassabunchofseabeet(canbereplacedwithspinachorkale)abunchofseakale(canbereplacedwithpurplesproutingbroccoli)abunchoffathen(canbereplacedwithspinach)aknobofbutter

Heattheovento160degCGasMark3ThefirsttaskistogettheanchoviesintothemeatspikethelambinseveralplaceswithasmallknifeworkingitunderthetoplayerofthefleshlaterallyratherthandownwardsPushtheanchovyfilletsintotheincisionsTheywilldissolveduringthelongcookingprocessseasoningthemeatandnegatingtheneedtosaltthejointfurtherEvenifyouarenotkeenontheserichsaltyandumamifishfilletsweurgeyounottoomitthemThefinalflavourwillnotbeoffishbutofseasonedlamb

Heatathinfilmofrapeseedoilinalargeheavy-basedfryingpanaddthelambshoulderandsearoverahighheatuntilbrownedalloverPuttheonionscarrotsrosemaryparsleyandgarlicinaroastingtinandplacethelambontopPourinthevermouthcoverwithfoilandplaceintheovenRoastfor3frac12ndash4hoursuntilyouhaveatenderroastofthehighestorderRemovefromtheovenandleavetorestforatleast20minutes

ScrubthepotatoesandcutthemsotheyareallroughlythesamesizeasthesmallestonesCookinboilingsaltedwateruntiltenderthendrainwellandtosswithaknobofbutterandthemint

Washthegreensandthenblanchthemwholeinfast-boilingwell-saltedwaterfor1minuteDrainwellandtosswithaknobofbutterServethelambwiththegreensandpotatoes

daggerAttherestaurantweusuallysourceabreedcalledSuffolkCrossCharolloisThebreedwasfirstimportedfromFrancein1976originallyfromthetownofCharollesintheSaocircneLoireregionofFrancewhereitgrazesalongsidethefamousCharollaisCattleOurbutcherbuysourlambfromfarmsbasedonthebanksoftheRiverSevernnearFramptononSevernTheyareslaughteredatStonehouseGloucestershireandsohave

lessthan5foodmilesattributabletothemThewildseaplantsonwhichourlambfeedarehighinsaltlevelsandiodinemakingthemusclecellsinthefleshretainmoremoistureThemeatisconsequentlysweeterjuicierandnotaspinkasmountainlamb

SteamedRabbitPudding

RabbithashistoricallybeenregardedaspoormanrsquosgameItwasoneoftheonlywildanimalsthatcommonerswereallowedtohunttherestbeingreservedforthecrownorthegentryTodaypeoplearescepticalaboutcookingwithrabbitbutitisundoubtedlygrowinginpopularityAtTheEthicureanwecookonlywildrabbitsfavouringtheirfirmtextureandgameyflavourMuchoftherabbitavailableinshopsisfarmedPleaseavoidbuyingthisasittendstobeblandandaltogetheruninterestingInsteadaskyourbutchertoorderyouayoungwildrabbitItisagooddealeasiertoidentifytheageofarabbitthathasthepelt(fur)

stillattachedAnoldtoughrabbitwillhaveascruffypatchycoatwornclawstoughearsandbrokenanddamagedteethThereislittletodowiththeseinthekitchenbutslowroastthemAyoungrabbitshouldhaveaglossyhealthycoatgoodstrongclawsandpliableearsInthisrecipeweemployagreatBritishtraditionthesteamedsuet

puddingBeforesealingtherabbitinthepastrywepressure-cookitwholeinMorganSweetciderfromthelowerorchardWehaveseentheoddappledropandlandonarabbitrsquosheadTheironyisnotlostonus

SERVES48springonionsouterlayerandrootsremoved1rabbitskinnedkidneysremoved1bottle(330ml)PerryrsquosMorganSweetciderorothergoodsweetcider5sprigsofthyme5blackpeppercornsseasalt

FORTHESUETPASTRY

300gself-raisingflourapinchofsalt150gcoarselygratedbeefsuetbutterforgreasing

PlaceagriddleoverahighheatandleaveforafewminutestogetveryhotAddthespringonionsandcookturningoccasionallyuntiltheyarecharred

AddthespringonionsandcookturningoccasionallyuntiltheyarecharredandtenderPlacetheminapressurecookerwiththewholerabbitciderthymeandpeppercornsAttachthelidandplaceonthehighestheatuntilitisatfullpressurethenturntheheatdownandcookfor1frac12hoursRemovefromtheheatandleavetocooltoroomtemperaturebeforeremovingthelid(Ifyoudonrsquothaveapressurecookercooktherabbitinacoveredpanoveralowheatfor3hourscheckingtheliquidleveleveryhourorsoandaddingmoreciderifnecessary)TaketherabbitoutofthecookerreservingtheliquidThoroughlyflakeallthemeatfromthebonesPlacethemeatinasaucepanstrainthecookingliquidthroughwetmuslinorafinesieveandcookoveramedium-highheatuntiltheliquidhasalmostcompletelyevaporatedSeasonwithsalttotaste

TomakethepastrysifttheflourintoabowladdthesaltandsuetandmixwellwithaknifeSlowlyadd200mlwaterstirringitintomakeadoughTurnoutontoaflouredsurfaceandkneadlightlyforacoupleofminutesthenrolloutto5mmthickGreasea12litrepuddingbasinwellwithbutterthenlineitwiththesuetpastryreservingaboutaquarterforthelidFillthebasinwiththerabbitRolloutthereservedpastrytofitthetopofthebasinthenputitoverthefillingandpinchtheedgestogetherTrimoffanyexcesspastry

Takeapieceoffoillargeenoughtocoverthetopofthebasingenerouslyandfolda2ndash3cmpleatinthecentretoallowroomforexpansionCoverthebasinwiththefoiltuckingitundertherimtosealPlaceonawirestandinsidethepressurecookerandaddacoupleofinchesofwatertothepanAttachthelidtothepressurecookerandplaceoverahighheattobringittofullpressureReducetheheatandcookonfullpressurefor1frac14hours(Alternativelyyoucouldsteamtherabbitinaconventionalsteamerfor2frac12hours)RemovefromtheheatandallowtocoolalittlethenturnthepuddingoutontoalargeservingplateDiverightin

PorkJuniperandBlackIPAPie

InBritaintherelationshipsbetweenapplesbeerporkandpiesareasoldasthehillsThereismuchtocelebrateonourlittleislandandtheporkpieshouldbeworshippedattheveryleastonceaweekAlittlesmudgeof

shouldbeworshippedattheveryleastonceaweekAlittlesmudgeofmustardasliceofpiebalancedonthekneewithagoodpausebetweeneachbiteThisisapiethatmustbeeatenoutdoorsandhelpedonitswaywithagoodbestbitterordryciderWemustconfessthattheeccentricitiesofthisrecipeevolvedfromthe

greatFrenchtraditionofmakingcoarseporkterrinesWelovejuniperndashitsheadyresinousfragranceisthedelightofgindrinkersanditistrulyathomewithporkTheFrenchndashandthelategreatKeithFloydndashwouldtumbleinaclaretsavingthelastthirdofthebottleasacookrsquosperkandanothertoenjoyduringbakingWeforgowinehereforanIndiaPaleAle(IPA)andablackIPAatthatThisisnrsquotmerelyforpatrioticeffectbutbecauseofthewonderfullyhoppednatureofanIPAandtheroastedmaltybasethatcomesfromtheinclusionofdarkmaltMoorBeerbasedinPitneyinSomersetmakesaverygoodblackIPAcalledIllusionJustyntheheadbrewerrefusestoaddfinningstoclearhisbeersayinglsquoWhywouldIwanttheswimbladdersoffishinmypintpurelyforclarityrsquoHehasapointIfyoucannotfindablackIPAagoodregularIPAwilldoverywellindeedEvenifyouareunfamiliarwiththenamehot-watercrustpastryyouwill

undoubtedlyhaveeatenitifyouhaveeverindulgedinagoodporkpieItiscommonlyusedformakinghand-raisedpiesandisanimportantpartofMatthewandIainrsquosinfamouslsquopieoffsrsquoThetwoarerarelycompetitivebutwhenitcomestohand-raisingporkpies(ratherthantakingtheeasieroptionofmakingtheminamouldasbelow)wewilloftenhearthewordslsquoItrsquosonrsquofromthekitchenndashthendeadlysilenceensueswhilethetwometiculouslygoaboutshapingtheirpiesOncethepiesareintheoventhebanterandteasingbeginlsquoWaaahyourpiersquosdefinitelygoingtocrackrsquolsquoWhateverYoursissowonkyitrsquosnotevengonnastanduprightrsquoItisapastrythatcontradictstraditionalmethodsofpastrymakingneedingtobeusedwarmsoitcanbeshapedDonotletthisintimidateyoundashthisisaveryeasyandfunpastrytoworkwith

SERVES8

FORTHEFILLING

13kgporkbellymincedonacoarsesetting(askyourbutcherforthebones)200gpigrsquoslivercutinto1cmcubes200gmincedbeef10smokedstreakybaconrasherscutinto2cmpieces

10smokedstreakybaconrasherscutinto2cmpieces2garlicclovesfinelysliced15blackpeppercornsplus1tspfreshlygroundblackpepper17juniperberrieslightlycrushedfrac12tspgroundmace250mlblackIPA(orregularIPA)75mlSomersetciderbrandy1tbspfineseasalt

FORTHEJELLY

thebonesfromtheporkbelly3ndash4pigrsquostrotters1largecarrotfinelysliced1largeonionfinelysliced1bayleaf5sprigsofthyme12blackpeppercorns2ndash3lovageleaves(orceleryleaves)seasalt

FORTHEHOT-WATERCRUSTPASTRY

450gstrongwhiteflourfrac12tspsalt1tbspicingsugar1egg80glarddiced80gbutterdiced1egglightlybeatentoglaze

FirstmakethejellyPutalltheingredientsexceptthelovageandsaltinapanadd15litresofwaterandbringtotheboilReducetheheattoasimmerandcookuncoveredfor2hoursmeticulouslyskimmingoffanyscumthatrisestothesurfaceStrainthroughafinesieveintoacleanpanandbringtotheboilBoiluntilreducedtoaquarterofitsvolumethenremove

fromtheheatNowitrsquostimetotestwhetherithasreducedtothecorrectconsistencyPutatablespoonoftheliquidonaplateandleaveitinthefridgefor20minutesPushyourfingerthroughthemiddleoftheliquidIftheliquidbeginstocrinklethenitrsquosreadyIfnotcontinuetoreduceitoverahighheatforafewmoreminutesthentestagainWhenthecorrectconsistencyisachievedbringtheliquidtotheboiladdthelovageleavesandturnofftheheatLeavethelovagetoinfusefor20minutesthenremoveanddiscardTasteoncemoreandseasonwithseasaltaccordingly

YoucouldmakethestockforthejellyinapressurecookerFollowtheinstructionsabovebutcookatfullpressurefor80ndash90minutesRemovefromtheheatandallowtocooltoroomtemperaturebeforeremovingthelidThenstrainreduceandtestasabove

PutalltheingredientsforthefillinginabowlandmixwithyourhandsuntilthoroughlycombinedSetasidewhileyoumakethepastry

Heattheovento180degCGasMark4TomakethepastrymixthefloursaltandicingsugartogetherinalargebowlMakeawellinthecentreandaddtheeggCovertheeggwiththeflourPutthelardandbutterinasaucepanwith200mlwaterGraduallybringthewatertoasimmerandleaveuntilthefatshavemeltedSlowlypourthewaterandfatintotheflourCuttogetherwithaknifeuntiladoughhasstartedtoformthenturnoutontoaflouredsurfaceandkneadlightlyuntilglossyandsmoothndashacoupleofminutesmaximumUseimmediately

SetasideathirdofthepastryforthelidRollouttherestonalightlyflouredsurfaceto5mmthickandusetolinea23cmpiemouldorspringformcaketinTrimtheexcesspastryhangingovertheedgesandputtoonesideSpooninthefillingpressingitdowngentlysoitisevenlydistributedRolloutthereservedpastry3mmthicktomakealidPutitontopofthepieandpinchittothepastryedgesotherearenogapsYoucangentlyshapetherimintoaprettydesignshouldyousowishMakeasmallholeinthecentreforventing

Rolloutthepastrytrimmingsto3ndash5mmthickCutastrip5cmwideandasimilarlengthtothepieCutdiagonallyintostripsallthewaydowntheentirelengthandthenagaintheotherwaysowhatyouareleftwithare

diamondsinthecentreandhalfdiamondsontheedge(seethephotoopposite)

BrushthepiewiththebeateneggtoglazethenlaytheextrapastryinastripacrossthetopofthepieinadesignofyourchoiceleavingtheventholeclearLightlyglazetheextrapastrypieceswitheggthenplacethepieintheovenandbakefor20minutesTurntheovendownto160degCGasMark3andbakeforafurther45ndash60minutesuntilthejuicesrunclear(ifyouhaveaprobethermometertheinternaltemperatureofthepieshouldbe86degC)Ifthepieisbrowningtooquicklywhichcanoftenhappencoverittightlywithfoil

AllowthepietocooltoroomtemperaturethencarefullyremoveitfromthemouldIfthejellyhassetwarmitslightlysoitisjustliquidSlowlypourthejellyinthroughthesteamventuntilthepieisfullPlaceinthefridgefor2ndash4hourstosetthejelly

daggerWedoenjoyasplashofSomersetCiderBrandyinourpieJulianTemperleyhasmadeasuccessofdistillingcideralongwiththehelpofhistwocontinuousstillsJosephineandFifiThisisnopoorrelationofCognacbutaformidablespiritthathasafloralspiceandadepththathasbeenbroughttolifeontheSomersetlevelsJulianrsquosexperimentswithblendsbarrelsandageinghavefurnishedourrestaurantwithenoughmarvellousdrinkstokeepanySomersetciderfarmerrosie-cheeked

PearlBarleywithOldDemdikeandStGeorgersquosMushroom

Weloveumami-richfoodsandmushroomsandcheesearefantasticsourcesofitUmamiorsavouryflavourisnowconsideredtobethefifthbasictastendashtheothersbeingsweetsoursaltyandbitterTomatoescheesessuchasParmesanandCheddarandmushroomsarepackedfullofitThisdishisverysimilartotheItalianorzottoOrzottoislikerisottoonly

pearlbarleyisusedeasilymatchingthequalityofCarnaroliorVialoneNanoriceWhenrisottosandorzottosarewellexecutedtheyareadelightndashheartysoothingandoftennostalgicndashyettheycanbeimproveduponfurtherwiththeuseoftexturalcontrastsandburstsofflavouraswedointhisrecipeHereintenselyflavouredmushroomjelliesaddaburstofrichumamiandatexturalcontrastStGeorgersquosmushroomsgivehintsofwatermelonandcucumberwhileaewersquoscheesecrispaddsafineaestheticfinishtoanalreadystunningdish

SERVES4150goldDemdikecheesegrated300gpearlbarley2tbsprapeseedoil200gonionsfinelydiced150gcarrotsfinelydiced200gceleriacfinelydiced250mlredwine350mlmushroomstock(seehere)10ndash15smallStGeorgersquosmushroomsquartered(ifunavailableuseoystermushrooms)

1tbspchoppedparsleyMushroomJelly(seehere)madewithsmokedsaltifpossibleseasalt

Tomaketheewersquoscheesecrispsarrange50gofthegratedcheeseinanovalshapeonapieceofbakingparchmentPlaceanotherpieceofparchmentontopandrollitoutintoathinlayerTurnoutintoafryingpanandplaceona

topandrollitoutintoathinlayerTurnoutintoafryingpanandplaceonamedium-lowheatuntilthecheesehasmeltedandthebottomhasbeguntobrownlightlyPutthepanunderahotgrillandleaveuntilthecheeseisanevengolden-browncolouralloverLeavetocoolthenbreakinto4piecesandsetaside

PlacethepearlbarleyinasaucepancoverwithcoldwaterandbringtotheboilDrainwellthenrepeatDrainandsetasideHeathalftherapeseedoilinasaucepanaddtheonionscarrotsandceleriacandcookoveramediumheatuntiltheybegintosoftenDonotallowthemtocolourStirinthepearlbarleyfollowedbytheredwineandcookuntilthewinehasbeencompletelyabsorbedbythebarleyAddthemushroomstockaladlefulatatimewaitingforittobefullyabsorbedbeforeaddingthenextContinuefor10ndash15minutesuntilthepearlbarleyiscookedbutstillhasaslightresistancetothebite

MeanwhileheattheremainingrapeseedoilinafryingpanaddthemushroomsandfryoverahighheatuntiltenderandgoldenbrownAddthemtothepearlbarleyreservingafewforgarnishingStirintheremaininggratedcheeseandtheparsleyandseasonwithsaltServegarnishedwiththeremainingfriedmushroomsthemushroomjelliesandthecheesecrisps

RhubarbandCustard

MostpeoplecredittheeccentricVictorianswithplacingjelliesfirmlyontheBritishgastronomymapAfterallitwastheVictorianaristocracywhoexcelledatusingdecorativejelliesatbanquetstodisplaytheirpowerandsocialstandingInfactjellieshadbeenaroundforcenturiespreviouslyandsavouryjellieswerecommonatmedievalfeastsWecreatedthisdessertinhonourofRobertMayaseventeenth-century

cookwhointroducedfruitjelliestotheEnglishtableandmetwithasurprisingamountofresistanceThissuperblyflavouredjellyconsistsoftwoingredientsthatwethinkweremeanttobetogetherndashrhubarbandcustardYoudonrsquotnecessarilyhavetolayerthemexactlyasdescribedbelowYoucouldmakethinnerlayersoraddaborderofjellyetcGetcreativeJustbesuretoseteachlayerfullybeforeaddingmore

SERVES6

FORTHERHUBARBJELLY

15kgrhubarbcutinto2cmpieces150gcastersugar13ggelatine

FORTHECUSTARD

600mldoublecream1vanillapod8eggyolks200gcastersugar11ggelatine

FORTHERHUBARBCOMPOTE(OPTIONAL)

2largerhubarbstalkscutinto1ndash2cmpiecesafewtbspcastersugartotaste

Forthejellyput650mlwaterinapanandbringtotheboilPlaceasteamerbasketoverthetoplargeenoughtoholdtherhubarbAddtherhubarbtothebasketcoverwithatight-fittinglidandsteamoveralowheatfor1hourIftoomuchsteamisescapingputalayeroffoiloverthepanandputthelidon

toomuchsteamisescapingputalayeroffoiloverthepanandputthelidontopofthefoil

WhiletherhubarbissteamingmakethecustardPourthecreamintoaheavy-basedsaucepanSlitthevanillapodopenlengthwiseandscrapeouttheseedsAddtheseedsandpodtothecreamandbringtojustbelowboilingpointthenremovefromtheheatandcoolslightlyWhisktheeggyolksandsugartogetherinalargebowluntiltheyolksbecomepaleandthesugarisfullyincorporatedPourthecreamthroughafinesieveontotheeggyolkswhiskuntilsmoothandthentransfertoacleansaucepanPutthegelatinesheetsintoabowlofice-coldwaterandleavetosoakfor10minutes

HeatthecustardmixturegentlystirringconstantlyAfterafewminutesitwillbegintothickenItisvitaltostirallpartsthoroughlytopreventanyofthemixtureovercooking(Ifyouhaveadigitalthermometerthenthisisagoodtimetouseitthecustardshouldbenomorethan85degCotherwiseitwillscramble)WhenithasthickenedenoughtocoatthebackofthespoonwithoutrunningoffremovefromtheheatandplacethepanbrieflyinabowlofcoldwatertostopitcookingfurtherStrainthecustardthroughasieveintoabowlSqueezeoutanyexcessliquidfromthegelatineandaddthegelatinetothecustardstirringuntilcompletelydissolvedCoolthecustardquicklybyplacingthebowlinacoupleofinchesofcoldwaterinthesinkthenchillinthefridge

CUSTARD

InabusykitchenmakingcustardfromscratchisabitofatreatAsimplejobitisachancetostandstillandfocusononetaskit

forcesyoutoslowdownphysicallyandmentallySlowlywatchinghowtheviscosityofthecustardchangeswhilestirringconstantlyisquiteagroundingexerciseItisamomentwhenyoutakeinthesoundsandsmellsaroundyouandregainsome

clarityamidstalltheactivity

clarityamidstalltheactivity

Whentherhubarbhassteamedfor1hourremovefromtheheatanddiscardtherhubarbAllthejuiceandflavourfromtherhubarbwillbeinthewaterinthepanunderneathsokeepthisMeasureout450mloftherhubarb-infusedwaterintoacleansaucepanaddthesugarandheatgentlystirringuntildissolvedSoftenthegelatineinice-coldwaterasforthecustardSqueezeoutanyexcesswaterandaddthegelatinetothepanofftheheatStiruntilcompletelydissolvedthensetaside

Tosetthejellyyouwillneeda1-litreterrinejellymouldorbowlIfusingaterrineverylightlyoiltheinsideusingapastrybrushthenlinewithalayerofclingfilmOncetheterrineislinedwithclingfilmithelpstofilltheterrinewithwaterwhichenablesyoutoremoveanyremainingairbubblesfromtheedgesoftheterrineDiscardthewaterandgentlypatdrywithkitchenrollIgnorethisprocessifusingajellymouldorbowl

Pouralayerofjellyintoyourchosenreceptacletillabout1ndash2cmdeepPlaceinthefridgefor1frac12hoursoruntilsetfirmPuthalfthecustardinapanplaceoverthelowestpossibleheatandstircontinuouslyuntilfluidPourthecustardintothemouldoverabackofaspoonheldjustabovetherhubarbjellyThisslowsitsfallmakingitlesslikelytobreakthejellyapartPourthecustardoverthefirstlayerofrhubarbjellyandreturntothefridgeLeavefor2hoursoruntilcompletelyfirm

TakeouttheremainingjellyandplaceinasaucepanoveralowheatuntilfluidPouroverthesetlayerofcustard(usingaspoonasyoudidbefore)andreturntothefridgeuntilcompletelysetThenheattheremainingcustarduntilfluidandpouritintothemouldoverthebackofaspoonasbeforeLeaveinthefridgepreferablyovernightuntilset

Tomakethecompoteputtherhubarbinasaucepanjustbigenoughtoholditinasinglelayerandadd2tablespoonsofwaterCookcoveredoveralow-mediumheatuntiltherhubarbbeginstobreakdownStirinsugartotasteandcontinuetocookuntilthecompoteistheconsistencyofrunnyjam

tasteandcontinuetocookuntilthecompoteistheconsistencyofrunnyjamRemovefromtheheatandleavetocool

Turnthejellyoutofthemouldandservewiththecompoteifliked

daggerTheVictorianerawasthehey-dayofjellymakingthoughjellieshadbeenaroundforcenturiesInTudorandStuarttimesitwascommonforthegentrytobuildsummerhousesintheirgardensjustsothattheirbanquetingguestshadsomewherequietwheretheycouldenjoythefinaljellycourseAssugarbecamemorewidelyavailabledessert-makersmadethemostofitBytheseventeenthcenturysweetjellieswerethenormseasonedwithrosewaterandspicesOthercreationsincludedtransparentpuddingsinwhichlayersofslicedalmondsraisinscitronandcandiedlemonwerevisiblethroughthejelly

ChocolateandSaltCaramelBrownieswithCherryandElderflowerSauce

TherearecountlessrecipesforchocolatebrowniesandinitiallywethoughtthatperhapsthereweretoomanyalreadyHowevergiventhatourlocalareahassuchanillustrioushistoryinchocolateproductionwefeltitwasonlyfairtocomeupwithourownchocolaterecipeWehavetheindustriousVictorianstothankformakingchocolateavailabletothewiderpublicItwasinfactafactoryinBristolownedbyJSFryampSonsthatproducedthefirstchocolatebarin1847ThecompanywentontoproducesomeofourchildhoodfavouritessuchasFryrsquosChocolateCreamandTurkishDelightWeliketouseOriginalBeanschocolatebecauseofitsqualityandthe

companyrsquosethicswhichcloselymatchourownCo-foundedbytheenvironmentalistentrepreneurPhilippKauffmanOriginalBeansisrenownedforitszerocarbonpoliciesandpassionforsustainablefarmingTheadditionofsaltcaramelisprimarilytoenhancethesweetnessofthe

browniealthoughwehavetoadmitthatitdoesaddalottotheoverallpresentationtoo

SERVES4WITHPLENTYOFBROWNIESLEFTFORTOMORROW

250gdarkchocolateatleast72percentcocoasolids170gunsaltedbutter300gcastersugar3largeeggslightlybeaten1eggyolk80mlrapeseedoil60gplainflourfrac12tspbakingpowderfrac12tspsalt70gorganiccocoapowder50gSaltCaramel(seehere)plusextratoserve

FORTHECHERRYANDELDERFLOWERSAUCE

100gfrozensourcherries

100gfrozensourcherries50gElderflowerSyrup(seehere)orelderflowercordial

Heattheovento180degCGasMark4Lightlygreasea23cmspringformcaketin

Melt200gofthechocolateinabowlplacedoverapanoflightlysimmeringwatermakingsurethewaterdoesnottouchthebaseofthebowlRemovefromtheheat

UsinganelectricwhiskorafreestandingmixerfittedwiththepaddleattachmentbeatthebutterandsugartogetheruntilpaleandlightChangethemixerattachmenttoawhiskorcontinueusingtheelectricwhiskSlowlyaddtheeggsandtheextrayolknomorethanatablespoonatatimewhiskingthoroughlybetweeneachadditionSlowlyaddtherapeseedoilandwhiskthemixtureforafurther5minutesuntilithasaglossysilkyappearance

SiftintheflourbakingpowdersaltandcocoapowderandwhiskbrieflyuntilincorporatedUsingametalspoonfoldinthemeltedchocolatePourthemixtureintothecaketinandsmooththetopRoughlychoptheremainingchocolateandlightlypushthepiecesintothesurfaceofthecakemixRepeattheprocesswiththesaltcaramelpiecesPlaceinthecentreofovenandbakefor25minutesoruntilaknifeinsertedinthecentrecomesawaywithalittlecakemixtureattacheditshouldnotlookraw

Ifitdoesreturntotheoventestingevery3minutesRemovefromtheovenandleavetocoolonawirerack

AllowtocooltoroomtemperatureonawiretrayMeanwhileputthecherriesandelderflowersyrupinasmallsaucepanandcookoveramediumheatforabout10minutesuntilsyrupyLeavetocoolalittlebeforeserving

ThebrowniescanbeservedhotorcoldTurnoutandslicethenservewithshardsofsaltcaramelbrokenovereachportionandthewarmsyruppouredoverThebrowniescanberefrigeratedforupto5daysbutyouwouldneedagreatdealofwillpowerforthemtolastthatlongFreezingisagoodwaytolengthentheirlifeandithastheaddedbonusofincreasingthefudginess

Elderflowersyrup

100mlwater100gcastersugar2largeheadsofelderflower

Put100gcastersugarinapanwith100mlwaterandbringtotheboilstirringtodissolvethesugarImmediatelyremovefromtheheatandadd2largeheadsofelderflowerLeavetoinfusefor20minutesthenstrainthroughapieceofwetmuslinorasieveLeavetocoolthenstoreinthefridgeforuptoaweek

StrawberryandRoseLemonadePuddingwithSaffronandCiderBrandyCustard

ThisisamarvellouswayofusingupthelastjarofstrawberryjambeforethesummerglutWehavepolishedoffoneofthesepuddingsinunder5minutesbetweenthefourofusThebrandyandsaffrongivethecustardcomplexityandpunchandcomplementthestrawberryinawayyoumightnothaveexpected

SERVES6160mlRoseLemonade(seehereoruseFentimans)150gsaltedbutteratroomtemperaturecutintocubes235gcastersugar160gplainfloursifted85mlsouredcream1largeegg2tspvanillaextract1frac12tspbicarbonateofsoda100gstrawberryjamahandfulofpalerosepetalstogarnish

FORTHESAFFRONANDCIDERBRANDYCUSTARD

12saffronstamens25mlciderbrandy480mldoublecream1vanillapod6eggyolks160gcastersugar

PuttheroselemonadeandbutterinapanandwarmoverthelowestpossibleheatuntilthebutteralmostmeltsthenremovefromtheheatAddthesugarandstirinwellWhiskinthesiftedflourin2stagesuntilcompletelyincorporatedthensetasideInaseparatebowlwhisktogetherthesouredcreameggvanillaextractandbicarbonateofsodaAddthistotheroselemonadeandflourmixtureandwhisktoincorporateoncemore

lemonadeandflourmixtureandwhisktoincorporateoncemore

Greasea12litrepuddingbasinwithbutterPutthestrawberryjaminthebottomofthebasinandtopwiththecakemixTakeapieceoffoillargeenoughtocoverthebasinandmakeapleatinthecentrethiswillallowthepuddingtoexpandduringcookingPutthefoiloverthebasinandtucktheedgesundertherimPutthebasininasteamercoverwithalidandsteamfor2hourscheckingthewaterlevelevery30minutesorsoandtoppingupwhennecessary(Thepuddingcanalsobesteamedinapressurecookeroveratrivetwith25cmwaterinthebottomatfullpressureforanhourtogetittothetablequicker)ThecustardcanbepreparedasthepuddingcomestotheendofitssteamingAddthesaffrontotheciderbrandytoinfusetheirheadyscentstogetherSplitthevanillapodopenandscrapeouttheseedsPuttheseedsandpodinaheavy-basedsaucepanwiththecreamandsetoveralowheatuntilalmostboilingRemovefromtheheatandletitcoolalittleWhisktheeggyolksandsugartogetherinabowluntiltheyolksturnpalethenpourinthecreamthroughasievewhiskingtocombinePourthemixtureintoacleanpanandsetoveralowheatCookstirringconstantlyuntilthemixturethickensItisimportantnottoleavethepanaloneatthisstageaswanderingconcentrationwillleadtoascrambledeggcustardIfyouhaveadigitalthermometerthecustardwillstarttothickenat70degCandbeatitsthickestat85degCndashanyhigherthanthatanditwillscrambleWithorwithoutathermometermuchoftheskillliesinbeingabletoseethischangeKeepacloseeyeonthecustardasyoustirandwatchforthemomentwhenthereisacleartrailleftbehindthespoononthebaseofthepanChalkupanotherkitchenskillwhenyouseethatvelvetsaucecompleted

Passthecustardthroughafinesieveandstirintheciderbrandyandsaffron

TurnthepuddingoutofthebasinandservewiththecustardSaffronandstrawberryisalip-smackingcombinationandcanbebetteredonlybytheadditionofafewpalerosepetalsscatteredoverthepuddingonceitisserved

VERMOUTH

EssentiallyvermouthismadewithabasewinethathasbeensweetenedwithamixtureofgrapejuiceandalcoholVariousbotanicalsextractsarethenaddedbeforematurationfilteringandbottlingThereareanincrediblenumberofvermouthsonthemarketatleast40varietiesTwoofthebest-knownaretheFrenchNoillyPratwhichuses20ndash30botanicalsandtheItalianMartiniRossiwhichcontains30Alsquotearsquoismadebymaceratingthebotanicalsinahighproofspiritinslowlyrevolvingbarrelsfor10ndash15daysthenasetratioofeachisaddedtothebasewineThisiseversoslightlymoreprofessionalthanshakingajamjarWewereinspiredbytheflavoursofAnticaFormulaandPunteMesand

bythesubtletyofBonmewhichcomesfromthePiedmontregionofItalyItisthecomplexitiesofvermouththatreallycapturedourattentionItworksasanaperitifacocktailingredientadigestifandasaningredientincookingThisisduetothemedicinalnatureofthebotanicalingredientssomestimulatehungerwhileotherssettlethestomachWewantedtocreateourownhousevermouththatmatchedourtastesanexpressionofourrestaurantandourlocationJackhadtoengageagooddealofgreymattertogethisheadaroundthemathswhenitcametothebotanicalsWhatfollowedwasnothingshortofalengthyprocessoftrialanderrorWehadbottlesandbottlesofvermouthallslightlydifferentasweincreasedanddecreasedtheproportionsofeachbotanicalteaTheEthicureanwaspepperedwithjarsofourexperimentsSomeweresoastringentthattheyresultedinextremefacialcontortionsamongstthefriendswhotriedthemWehadagoodchatwithJekkaMcVicarwhohelpeduschoosethevarietiesofherbsbestsuitedtoourrecipesandtobeinggrownintheWalledGardenTherecipebelowisforsweetvermouthbutthisisbynomeansadefinitiverecipeThepleasurecomesfromtryingoutyourowncombinationsPleasefeelfreetoleaveoutbotanicalsoraddnewonesofyourownWehaveincludedtheoptionofloweringthesugarcontentforadrierofferingSetasideasmallareaofyourkitchenandstackupthosejarsofmacerating

botanicalsTrythemallindividuallynotingtheirflavoursandyouwillgraduallybegintobeabletobuildyourownvermouthbasedonyourchosenprofileTheremayevenbethepossibilityofsubstitutingsomewildbitteringagentsforsomeoftheexoticbitterbotanicalsHereisashortlistof

possibilitiesCHAMOMILEusedinlotsofvermouthsaddsagoodfloralflavour

GORSEFLOWERSalternativebitterflavourMARITIMEPINENEEDLESresinousflavourFENNELSEEDSusedinsomevermouths

EQUIPMENT

bullScalesthatmeasureto01ofagramarecrucialforweighingoutthesmallamountsofeachbotanicalteaTheyareagreatpieceofequipmentandquiteinexpensivebullAhydrometerisusefulforworkingoutthealcoholcontentofyourfinishedvermouthbull20sterilejamjarsforthebotanicalsbullApipetteforaddingeachbotanicalteaalthoughateaspoonwillsufficebullAsmallteastrainerwillhelptokeepoutanypiecesofthebotanicalswhenaddingtheteatothebasewine

TheEthicureanVermouthBotanicals

ANGELICASEEDS(Angelicaarchangelica)Similarinaromatojuniper

BAY(Laurusnobilis)MedicinalqualitiesAnti-inflammatoryantibacterial

BLACKPEPPER(Pipernigrum)Hotwoodandfloralflavours

CARDAMOM(Amomumcardamom)AromaticandresinousdigestiveUsedtotreatinfections

CINAMMON(Cinnamomumverum)LaurelfamilySweetaromaticspice

CLOVE(Syzygiumaromaticum)CentralandSouthernEuropeprincipalingredientinAngosturabittersgoodfordigestionContainsglycosidesoneofthemostbitternaturalcompoundsknownandeugenolwhichhasantisepticandanaestheticqualities

CORIANDER(Coriandrumsativum)LemonandcitrusflavourWarmnuttyspicyorange

GENTIANROOT(Gentianalutea)VerybitterusedinAngostorabitters

JUNIPER(Juniperuscommunis)Pineyandresinous

MARJORAM(Origanummajorana)Balsamicandaromaticflavour

NUTMEG(Myristicafragrans)PreservinganddelicateagentORANGEPEELAromaticsweetonthenoseandforusakeyelementofourvermouth

ORRIS(Irisgermanica)EnhancesotheraromasandperfumesViolet-likesmelltasteslikeraspberry

QUASSIABARK(Quassiaamara)Quassinisthebitterestsubstanceinnature

ROSEMARY(Rosmarinusofficinalis)Aromaticwarmandslightlybitter

SAGE(Salviaofficinalis)containsthujoneaslightlyantiseptic-tastingcompoundSavouryflavour

STARANISE(Illiciumverum)AgreatflavourenhancerRichspice

VANILLA(Vanillaplanifolia)Addsaflavourofagedoakwhichisfoundinmaturevermouths

WORMWOOD(Artemisiaabsinthium)VerybittermedicinalpropertiesKeyingredientforanauthenticvermouth

YARROW(Achilleamillefolium)VerybitterOftencalledarrowrootintheUKitisregardedasahealingherb

Vermouth

QUANTITIESFOREACHBOTANICALTEA

Angelicaseeds15gBayleaves15gBlackpeppercorns10g

Blackpeppercorns10gCardamom1gCinammon83gClove05gCoriander15gGentianroot2gJuniper15gMarjoram5gNutmeg5gOrangepeel146gOrris6gQuassiabark4gRosemary5gSage15gStaranise5gVanilla5gWormwood4gYarrow2g

YourvermouthcanbestoredinasterilisedbottlewithagoodsealvacuumpumpingitisaverysensibleideaStoreinthefridgeanddrinkwithinacoupleofmonthswearesurethatitwillbegoneinaweek

ThebotanicalslistedherecanallbepurchasedonlineorfromChineseherbalistsWeuseacrispdryEnglishwhitewinefromSomersetasourbasewinealthoughinthepastwehaveusedaColombardandGrosMansengblendTryoutafewwhitewinesandseewhichoneyouprefer

WemakeourowncaramelandaddittothewineHoweverreducingtheamountofcaramelcanmakeverygooddryvermouthSweetvermouthtypicallycontains10ndash15percentsugarwhileadryonewillcontainnomorethan5percentItiscrucialtoraisethealcoholbyvolumeofthewine(thisisachievedbyaddingthebotanicalteas)asat13ndash15percentalcoholtheyeastwillstopconvertinggrapesugarsThisisimportantasyoudonotwantabottlethatwillcontinuetofermentAMuscatwinemakesanexcellentsweetvermouth

Thebasicproportionsforthisrecipeare500mlwine150mlintotalofthebotanicalteas200gcaramelThisyieldsjustunder700mlvermouth

TakeasmalljamjarandfillitaroundathirdfullwithyourbotanicalTopuptotwicetheheightthatthebotanicalreacheswithahighproofvodkaScrewonthelidandleavetomacerateatroomtemperaturefor2weeks

WhenmakingthecaramelforthevermouthfollowtheinstructionsforthesaltcaramelonhereomittingthesaltWerecommendtakingthecarameltoadarkambercolourforextradepthandcomplexityHeatingittosomewherebetween185and188degCwilldothetrickThiscanbepouredontoasiliconematandallowedtocoolintoasolidcaramelItcanbestoredinthesamewayasthesaltcarameluntilneeded

Whencombiningthecaramelwiththewineaddaquarterofthewine(oraslittleasneededtodissolvethecaramel)toapanandplaceonalowheatAddthecaramelshardsandstiruntilcompletelydissolvedAllowthemixturetocooltoroomtemperaturebeforecombiningwiththeremainingwineAddthebotanicalsintheproportionsgivenabovePleasetasteasyouaddthemasthiswillgiveyouasenseofwhateachingredientaddstoyourvermouth

HOWTOOAKYOURVERMOUTH

IfyouwouldliketotryoakingyourvermouthyouwillneedalargesterilisedjarwithawideneckPlaceahandfulofcleanoakchipsinthecentreofapieceofsterilisedmuslinandtiewitha

pieceofstringDropthebagofoakchipsintothejarandtopupwiththevermouthTryleavingforaweekandtasteregularlySomeofthebestvermouthsarematuredinoakthisisagreat

wayofsimulatingthatmaturationprocess

AtipforsterilisingtheoakchipswithoutremovingtoomuchoftheirflavourandtanninsistosteamthemPlaceinapanwithadropofwaterandalidturnuptoamediumheatandthechips

willsteam

RoseLemonade

WehavelovedFentimansrsquobotanicallybreweddrinksforyearsRecentlywehadadabbleatcookingwithsomeofthemandthewinnerwasroselemonadeWedecidedtoworkoutarecipeforourownversionInordertobrewitproperlywefirsthadtotrackdownagingerbeerplant(GBP)whichisessentiallyayeastcalledSaccharomycesflorentinusandabacteriumcalledBrevibacteriumvermiformeThesetwounlikelyfriendsformagelatinoussubstanceandasymbioticrelationshipwithinwhichtheyeastexcretes

alcoholandthebacteriumconsumesitYeasthasalowtoleranceofalcoholwhichofcourseremainslowduetothebacteriumGBPisbetterformakingdrinksthanordinaryyeastbecauseyouendupwithmuchbetterflavourslowalcoholandlittlechanceofdangerousexplosionsWeeventuallyfoundasupplieronlineandreceivedalittleenvelope

containingapacketofwhitejelly-likesubstanceyeastysweetandalcoholicWaitinglistspaymentsrefundsandrepaymentsfollowedAlittleresearchtoldusthataverycleverchapbythenameofHarryMarshallWarddiscoveredGBPrsquostalentforbrewingin1892WeusedJapaneserosepetalsRosarugosaastheyreallydoofferthefinest

flavourIfyoucanrsquotgettheseyoucouldtrydriedrosepetalsPleaseavoidrosesthathavebeensprayedwithchemicalsThegeneralruleisthatthepalervarietieshaveabetterflavour

MAKES2LITRES250gcastersugarjuiceandzestof1lemon25cmpieceoffreshgingerroughlychoppedahandfulofrosepetals1tbspGBP

ItisreallyimportanttosterilisealltheequipmentyouuseincludingthemuslinandstringYoucandothisbypouringboilingwaterovereverythingandthenleavingittodryPutthesugarandlemonzestinapanwith250mlwaterBringtoalightsimmerstirringtodissolvethesugarthenremovefromtheheatandleavetocool

Pour175litreswaterintoalargecontainer(alargeliddedplasticboxisfine)andaddthelemonjuicethiswillneutralisethechlorinegenerallypresentintapwaterwhichwouldotherwiseaffecttheyeastrsquosproductivityStraininthesugarandwatermixturePutthegingerinapieceofmuslintiewithstringanddropitinAddtheGBPthencoverandleaveatroomtemperaturefor5daysBesuretoopenthelidbrieflyeverydayinordertoletoutanycarbondioxidethathasbuiltupotherwiseitwillopenofitsownaccord

Strainthemixturethroughafinesieveintoasterilised2litreplasticbottle

Strainthemixturethroughafinesieveintoasterilised2litreplasticbottleandputonthetopSavetheGBPandgiveitarinseitwillhavegrown(Ifyoustoreitinthefridgeinasmallsterilecontaineritwillkeepforupto2weeks)After2daystheroselemonadewillbereadytodrinkalthoughifyoudesireafizzierbrewleaveitforlongerRefrigerationwillhaltanyfurtherfermentation

TheEthicureanCocktail

ThiscocktailhasquicklybecomeaclassicatTheEthicureanadelightfulbalanceofsweetsharpandsavouryAsthedayslengthenitmakesaperfectpre-dinnerdrinkinthegardenThymehasantisepticqualitiesasdohoneyandlemonmakingthisanexcellentpick-me-upwithorwithoutthevodkaInvestinginaninexpensiveBostoncocktailshakerisaverygoodideaIt

allowsyoutobuildandshakedrinkscontainingjuiceaeratingthemchillingthemquicklyandformingapleasingfrothMostbartenderswouldadvisethatshakingshouldbeusedonlywhendrinkscontainsomejuiceYouwillsignificantlylowerthetemperaturebyshakingbutexpectasmalllevelofdilutionfromtheiceIfalltheingredientsareclearstirringisthebetteroptionpreservingtheclarityofthedrink

SERVES1icecubesfrac14lemon2sprigsofthymeplus1toserve1tsphoney25mlChaseEnglishPotatovodka100mlapplejuice

Fillyourglasstotherimwithice

SqueezethewedgeoflemonintotheglasspartofaBostonshakerthendropinthesqueezedlemonwedgetogetherwiththethymeMashtogetherwithawoodenpestleAddthehoneypouringinjustalittlewarmwatertodissolveMeasureoutthevodkatherersquosnoharminadoubleifthewindtakesyouandpouritontotheotheringredientsAddtheapplejuiceandtopuptojustbelowtherimwithiceTapthetinontopoftheglassandshaketillwatercondensesontheoutsideoftheshakerSeparatebyusingtheheelofyourhandtoknockwheretheglassandtinaretouchingPourthoselastfewpreciousdropsintothetinthenplaceaHawthornestraineroverthetinandpourthemixtureintoyourchilledglassTopupwithiceandasmallsprigofthymethenaddmorejuicetotaste

HONEYANDTHYMESYRUP

WeliketomakeahalfandhalfsyruptouseinthecocktailaboveIfyouaremakingafewcocktailsitrsquosagoodwayofsavingtime

1tsphoneypercocktail1sprigofthymeforeverydrinkyouwouldlike

Placethehoneyandthymeinapanandadd1teaspoonofwaterforeveryteaspoonofhoneyBringgentlytoasimmerthenremovefromtheheatandleavetocoolStrainintoasterilisedcontainerandstoreinthefridgeitwillkeepfor2weeks

Negroni

TheNegroniisanenduringclassicThepreserveofbartendersandrestaurateursithasasatisfyingbitternessthatiswelcomeafteralongshiftWefindourselvessettledinbythesecondThiscocktailismorethanthesumofitspartsanditssuccessrestsonitsbalancedsimplicityWeuseourownVermouth(seehere)butAnticaFormulaandPunteMesmakesuperbonesWehavealsoservedthisdrinkwithasageleafasagarnishasitfindsa

harmoniousplaceamongstthearomaticsintheginandvermouth

SERVES11orange25mlgin25mlvermouth(seehere)25mlCampari

ChillatumblerwithicetoppedupwithwaterTakeafinesliceofzestfromtheorangeavoidingthebitterpithFillalargeglassonethirdfullwithiceandpourovertheginvermouthandCampariStiruntiltheoutsideoftheglasscondensesthenstrainintothechilledtumblerandsqueezealittleofthepreciousflavourfromtheorangezestBrushtherimofthetumblerwiththeorangezestthenpinchandsqueezeitovertheglasstoreleasetheessentialoilsTopupwithicetobelowtherim(aboveismostuncouth)thenslotinasliceoforange

Foratwisttrystirringacoupleoflovageleavesintothecontentsofthemixingglass

VERMOUTH

Althoughtheearliestreferencestoanaromatisedwinecropuparound1250BCinChinaandIndiaittookawhiletocatchoninEnglandPurlwasaseventeenth-centurybitteraleinfused

withwormwoodandafewotherbotanicalsmainlyusedtosettlethestomachBy1690lsquoStoughtonrsquosGreatCordialElixirrsquoaninfusionof22botanicalshadbecomeapopularcurefor

hangoversandgastricailmentslsquoDrankbymostgentlemenhelliptorecoverandrestoreaweakenrsquodstomachorlostappetitehellipoccasionedbyharddrinkingorsicknessrsquo(Imbibehere)

VermouthasweknowittodaybeganlifeintheregionaroundTurinItalyintheeighteenthcenturyRelativelysweetwithafull-bodiedherbaceousflavourthisdark-reddrinkwasfollowed

bydrierstraw-colouredstylesfromFranceinparticularChambeacuteryintheSavoieregion

RecipeList

FigsWrappedinPorkBellywithLavenderandBuffaloMozzarellaCaramelisedChicoryLabnehandMaceratedStrawberrySalad

RoastedTomatoandLiquoriceBasilSoupRoastedCourgetteandCobnutSoupwithLabnehandGinger

TurmericandMintDressingSousedMackerelCarrotFennelandSaffronwithGooseberryand

MintGranitaChilledBeetrootSoupPar-celWalnutIceCreamandRoasted

CobnutOilEwersquos-curd-stuffedCourgetteFlowerswithFennelSherbet

GlobeArtichokeswithHollandaiseSauceandSumacPeaGoatBaconandLovageBroth

ScallopsinPuffPastrywithVermouthandFennelCreamPickledPollackwithFlame-roastedPeppersCucumberPulBiber

ChilliandWaterMintDorsetBlueVinnyandFlame-roastedPepperswithCharredLittle

GemJohnDorywithMorelMushroomsFlatBeansHaricotBeansand

HamHockStockMusselsinCiderwithTarragon

SteamedMegrimSolewithRockSamphireandSumac-braisedFennel

PickledrocksamphireWaterBuffaloFilletwithClearChickenStockTarragonandSalt-

bakedBabyBeets

BarbecuedHorseMackerelwithCobnutSalbitxadaSauceFennelandSumacGravadTrout

WhiteRaspberryLoganberryandEwersquosYoghurtTerrinewithSweetCicelyConfit

ElderflowerSorbetwithFennelSherbetandWildStrawberriesPineappleWeedJelly

ElderflowerandLavenderMarshmallowsSpicedGingerBeer

SummerElderRawRhubarbSmash

DoubleSloeGinandTonic

SUMMERARRIVESWHENTHEcentralwalkwaythroughtheyewhedgeshasprogressedfromacarpettoagraduatingwallofcolourThisisMaddytheflowergardenerrsquosfavouritetimeastheperennialstaketheirplaceonthestageTherearenepetaachilleasalviaandgeraniums

OnMidsummerrsquosEvebonfirescanbeseenontheMendipsatduskastheoldpaganceremonyofstrengtheningthesuntakesplaceInthetrackthroughtheorchardthelavenderisbeginningtoflowersomeofitdestinedformarshmallowsservedtoastedtoorderintheglasshouseMarkcarriesupboxesofstrawberriesstillcoveredinstrawtheoddwoodlouseScramblingtosafetyThewildstrawberriesbarelyamouthfularepickedaswegathermintandthenewbright-greenlovageleaves

MatthewandPaucircladisappearforadaytotheirsamphirespotinSouthWalesTheyreturnwitharmfulsofthissaltyvegetablenotawhisperofthenameofthebeachTheropehanginginthedippingpondisaladderforthefirstdragonfliesoftheyeartakingwingThepondonceusedforwateringcansisteemingwithlife

MarkhassownsaladleavesthatresistboltingintheheatAnhourafterhepicksthemtheysitlayeredonplateswithpickledpollockandredpeppersWeroastthedeep-redpeppersandpurpleauberginesoveranopenflameuntiltheychangefromrichredandpurpletoashblackThesmellisperfectTheycoolbeforetheskinispeeled

Theelderhedgeprovidesuswiththefirststar-headedelderflowerswiththeirtranquilscentNextcometheberriesandsomewillbepickedunripetobepickledwithpepperandSaltndashwethinkofthemasSomersetcapers

IndescendingordertiedtofencepostsareraspberriesblackberriesloganberriesandwhiteraspberriesThesefruitsmaketheirwayintomyriadrecipessetcreamssorbetsjamsandvinegarsThewhiteraspberriesaremuddledincocktailsprovidinganaciditythatmakeslemonredundantAswefillcontainerswearecarefulnottopickahoneybeeIvorthebeekeeperarrivesandopensthehiveThequeenrsquoswingsareclippedsheismarkedandthenreturnedTheespaliersaredroopingundertheweightoffruitThereareapricotsgreengagesandVictoriaplumsOnthestovesitsanever-bubblingpanoffruitndashgreengageandvanillaperhapsorblackberrywith

bubblingpanoffruitndashgreengageandvanillaperhapsorblackberrywithbourbonwhiskey

TheartichokesplumpandgreenwithsharpscalesaresnippedoffaboveanysecondarybudsThekitchenmakesahollandaiseandtheglobesarecookedandplacedinabowlservedwiththisbutterysauceWithin20minutestherimissurroundedbystrippedpetalsandfingersreachfortheheart

MaddyrsquosflowersarejoinedbythebloomsofcampanulaechinaceaandpotentillaTheborderoutsidetheglasshouseisamovingriotofbutterfliesandhoneybeeswhiletheoddoneisskilfullyfreedfromthediningroom

BythistimethefoxgloveshavebeguntotumbleovertopheavywithblueflowersMeanwhilethefirstapplesarestartingtocropWorcesterPearmainBeautyofBathandCheddarGoldarecollectedintrugsandbasketsThedaysareshorteningandthecropsarepreservedpickledandstored

FigsWrappedinPorkBellywithLavenderandBuffaloMozzarella

CompromiseisdifficultwhenyouareabigfanoffigsTheyarewonderfulwhentheyareripebutnotreallyworthtastingatanyotherstageUnripefigshavegottobeoneofthemostdisappointingfoodsthereisTheproblemisthattheyaresodifficulttotransportthateitheryouhavetogrowthemyourselforbeclosetoagoodsourceContrarytopopularbelieffigtreesdogrowwellintheUKGrantedtheyarenomatchinsizeforsomeEuropeanvarietiesbuttheirfreshnessmakesupforwhatmightinitiallybeperceivedasadeficiencyThefigtreeattheWalledGardenneverceasestosurpriseusasitseemsto

beoblivioustothevolatilityoftheBritishweatherItlivesinablissfulstateofconstantexpansionextendingitsleafybrancheswithoutshameclaimingthefrontbrickarchwayasitsrightfulareaensuringthatallvisitorspassing

thefrontbrickarchwayasitsrightfulareaensuringthatallvisitorspassingthroughthetopgatearewelcomedbyitsgenerouspresenceAssummerprogressesopeningtheheavywoodengatewithoutdamagingthetreersquosbranchesbecomesmoreandmorechallengingItisalmostasifitistryingtoremindusofitshealthygrowtheverymorningThereisnoneedforsuchattention-seekingbehaviourItisoneofthemostwatchedtreesinourgardenThefigsaresoprecioustousthatwecannotriskanyofthembeingwastedFigshaveanaturalaffinitywithsaltyingredientsandarecommonly

servedwithprosciuttoHoweverwefindthatinthisdishthecrunchofthefigseedsisgreatlyenhancedbythecrispinessofthecuredporkbellyHoneyandfigsisanothercombinationthatworksremarkablywellWe

trieditwithlavenderhoneyandfoundthatitwasevenbetterItmadesensethentousestalksoflavendertoattachtheporkbellytothefigThecreaminessofthebuffalomozzarellaservestobalancethesweetnessof

thehoneyandfigswiththesaltinessoftheporkbellyTohaveaccesstoBritish-madebuffalomilkmozzarellafromLaverstokeParkFarmisassatisfyingashavingaBritish-madechorizosausage(seehere)Eachhassomanyapplicationsinthekitchenthatanychefseekingtousesolelylocalingredientshasmuchcausetocelebrate

SERVES48ripefigs1buffalomilkmozzarellaslicedinto8pieces16slicesofcuredporkbellysuchaspancetta16lavenderspearsfromlavenderinflower4tsplavenderhoney

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6WashanddrythefigstakingcarenottodamagetheskinCutacross2ndash3cmdeepthroughthestemofeachandopenthefiguplikeaflowerStuffasliceofmozzarellaintoeachfigthenwrap2slicesofcuredporkbellyroundtheoutsideSpikeeachfigwith2lavenderflowerspearstoholdtheporkinplaceduringbaking

Putthefigsinabakingdishdrizzlefrac12teaspoonoflavenderhoneyovereachoneandcookfor10ndash12minutesuntiltheporkbellyiscrispandthefigslightlycaramelisedCoolslightlybeforeserving

lightlycaramelisedCoolslightlybeforeserving

CaramelisedChicoryLabnehandMaceratedStrawberrySalad

ThearrivalofsummerattheWalledGardenoftentakesusbysurpriseThefirstsignisthequietmurmurofinsectsfromvariouscornersofthegardenthentheburstofcolourintheherbaceousbordersalongsidethecentralbrickpathAstheinsectsnoisilygatheraroundtheseflowerswerealisethatsummerhastiptoedinTherefollowschild-likeexcitementfromkitchenfolkandfront-of-housestaffalikeThearrivalofsummermeansmoreingredientstoexperimentwithandmoreexcusesforforaysaroundthegardenThissaladshowcasesallthatisgreatabouttheseasonStrawberriesare

particularlyimportanttotheSomersetareaNotfarfromusyouwillfindthefamousStrawberryLineanoldrailwaylinenowacyclepathwhichrunsthroughneighbouringvillagesBuiltintheVictorianeraittookitsnamefromthefamousCheddarstrawberriesthatusedtobecarriedalongthelinetoLondonInthisrecipeweusechicoryasacontrasttothetangysweetnessofthemaceratedstrawberries

SERVES4500gewersquosmilkyoghurtfrac12tspsalt120gmedium-sizedstrawberrieshulledandslicedverticallyinto3about200mlcidervinegar300gcastersugar6largeheadsofchicorycutintoquartersthroughtherooticingsugarfordustingalittlegroundcinnamonalittlecobnutoil(orhazelnutoil)afewborageflowers(optional)blackpepper

PreparethelabnehandstrawberriesadayinadvanceLineasievewithapieceofmuslinoraclothallowingtheendstooverhangthesievePuttheyoghurtinandmixinthesaltCovertheyoghurtwiththeendsofthe

yoghurtinandmixinthesaltCovertheyoghurtwiththeendsofthemuslinandthenplacethesieveoverabowlLeaveinthefridgeovernightThefollowingdayliquidwillhavecollectedinthebowlandtheyoghurtwillbethickerandcreamierDiscardtheliquidandspoontheyoghurtintoanairtightcontainerKeepinthefridgeuntilneeded

PuttheslicedstrawberriesinaplasticboxandpourinenoughcidervinegarjusttocoverthemCoverandleaveinthefridgeovernightThenextdaystrainoffthevinegarintoabowlAddthecastersugartoitandstirthoroughlyuntildissolvedPourthevinegaroverthestrawberriesandrefrigerateuntilneeded

Placeagriddlepanoveramedium-highheatuntilhotLightlydustthechicorywithicingsugarandthenplaceflat-sidedownonthegriddleCookwithoutmovingituntilitbeginstocarameliseunderneathandcharredlinesdevelopTurnthepiecesontotheirotherflatsideandrepeatthenflipthemontotheirroundedsideandcookuntiltenderRemovethechicoryfromthegriddlepanandsetasidetocoolalittle

Dividethechicorybetween4platesspreadingoutsomeoftheleavesDotthestrawberriesthroughoutthenaddseveralteaspoonsofthelabnehSprinklecinnamonoverthelabnehDresswithcobnutoilsomeofthemaceratingliquidfromthestrawberriesandborageflowersifyouhaveanyCoarselygrindsomeblackpepperoverthestrawberriesandserveimmediately

RoastedTomatoandLiquoriceBasilSoup

RoastingorcaramelisingvegetablescantransformanaveragesoupintosomethingtrulyspectacularPairitwithalittletexturalcontrastandburstsofflavouraswedoherewithbasilcroutonsandgoldentomatoandapplebalsamicjelliesandyouaregoingfarbeyondwhatmostpeoplehavecometoexpectwhentheyhearthewordsoupTheflavoursyoucanachievebyroastingtomatoesaregloriousIndeedit

ishardtothinkofaculinaryworldwithouttomatoesAsPaucirclaourresidentMexicanwillproudlytellyoutheyarenativetoMexicoTheSpaniardsbroughtthembacktosouthernEuropeforcultivationonamajorscaleDryingoutsomeofthemoisturefromthetomatoesintensifiestheirflavourandthebrowningfromtheroastingprocessaddsanewcomplexitytooneofourfavouriteingredientsTomatoesareagreatsourceofumami(seehere)WhentheyarecombinedwithmushroomstockinthisrecipeweachievesavouryheavenAddtothatawarminfusionofherbsandpiecesofthetomatovinewhichcontainsincrediblyfresharomatictomatoflavoursandweguaranteethatthisisasouptorivalanyyouhavehadbeforeWeuseastrainofliquoricebasilinthisrecipeastheanisenotesmakea

superbaccompanimenttotomatoMarkthegardenerspoilsuswithuniqueheritageorheirloomstrainsofplantsandherbseachwitharicherflavourthanthecommonhybridisedstrainsHegrowscinnamonbasilalongsidetomatoestoattractpestsawayfromtheredfruitplantsSeekoutaheritageorheirloomseedcompanyifyouareinterestedingrowingherbsastheywilldelightfromaculinaryaspectbutwillalsoprovideseedforthefollowingyearsGenovesebasilmammothbasilandMrsBurnslemonbasilareheirloomvarietieswellworthsearchingfor

SERVES4

SERVES41kgvine-ripenedtomatoesvinesreserved2garlicclovespeeled2bayleaves10sprigsofthyme20gbasilleaves(seehere)

rapeseedoilfrac14tspsmokedpaprika100mlmushroomstock(seehere)100mlwhitechickenstock(seehere)2dashesofWorcestershiresaucecidervinegar1tbsptomatopureacuteeseasalt

FORTHEGOLDENTOMATOJELLY(OPTIONALBUTRECOMMENDED)500ggoldentomatoesfrac14tspagaragarpowder

FORTHEAPPLEBALSAMICJELLY(OPTIONALBUTRECOMMENDED)200mlapplebalsamicvinegar(suchasAspallrsquos)frac12tspagaragarpowder

FORTHEBASILCROUTONS(OPTIONALBUTRECOMMENDED)

1thicksliceofsourdoughbreadcutinto1ndash2cmcubesrapeseedoiltocoat1ndash2tspicingsugar10gbasilleavesflakyseasalt

StartbypeelingthetomatoesTheeasiestwaytodothisistocutawidecrossatthebaseofeachtomatoscoringonlythroughtheskinHaveabowloficedwateratthereadyPutthescoredtomatoesinabowlpourboilingwateroverthemandleavefornomorethan30secondstheskinsshouldsplitwhereyoumadetheincisionRemovefromthewaterandplungestraightintotheicedwaterLeaveuntilcoldthenpeelofftheskins

Heattheovento180degCGasMark4Slicethetomatoesintoquartersandputtheminaroastingtraycut-sideupAddthegarlicclovesbayleaveshalfthethymesprigsandhalfthebasilleavesDrizzlewithenoughrapeseedoiltocoattheingredientslightlyandaddageneroussprinklingofseasaltPlaceintheovenandroastfor20ndash30minutesuntiltheedgesofthe

Placeintheovenandroastfor20ndash30minutesuntiltheedgesofthetomatoesbegintoblackenTakeoutoftheovenandleavetocoolRemovethebayleavesthymeandbasilanddiscard

Transferthetomatoesgarlicandtomatopureacuteetoablenderwiththesmokedpaprikaandblitzonfullspeedfor1minuteAddthemushroomstockandchickenstockandblitzforabout2minutesPassthroughafinesieveintoasaucepanaddtheWorcestershiresauceandbringtoasimmerImmediatelyremovefromtheheatandaddthereservedtomatovinesplustheremainingbasilandthymeLeavetoinfuseinawarmplacefor15minutesStrainthroughafinesieveoncemoreseasonwithsalttotasteandadashofcidervinegarforalittlewelcomeacidityIfyouleftthesouptoinfusesomewherewarmenoughitshouldstillbeagoodtemperaturetoeatIfyoupreferitalittlewarmerthenreheatquicklyandserveimmediatelyndashwithalloranyoftheoptionalgarnishesifyoulike

Ifmakingthejelliesitisusefultoknowthatagaragarwillremainstableuptoroughly80degCWeusuallyserveoursoupsaround75degC

Forthegoldentomatojellyblitzthetomatoestoapureacuteeinafoodprocessorfor2minutesPlaceinafinesievesetoverabowlandleavetodrainuntilyouhave200mlliquidPressgentlywiththebackofaladleifthetomatoesneedalittlecoaxingTasteandseasonwithsalttotastePuttheliquidinasaucepanandslowlyaddtheagaragarstirringconstantlyBringtotheboiloverahighheattohydratetheagaragarImmediatelyremovefromtheheatandpourintoasquareorrectangularTupperwarecontainerthatallowstheliquidtobe1cmdeepLeavetocooltheliquidwillsetTurnoutontoaboardandcutinto1cmcubesStorecoveredinthefridgeuntilneeded

FortheapplebalsamicjellyputthevinegarinasaucepanandslowlyaddtheagaragarstirringconstantlyBringtotheboiloverahighheatthenimmediatelyremovefromtheheatandpourintoasquareorrectangularTupperwarecontainerthatallowstheliquidtobe1cmdeepAllowtocoolandsetthencutinto1cmcubesasforthetomatojellyStoreinthefridgeDropthejellycubesintothehotsoupimmediatelybeforeserving

IfyouwanttoservethesoupwiththecroutonstossthecubesofbreadinalittlerapeseedoilandflakyseasaltuntillightlycoatedthensiftafineevenlayeroficingsugaroverthemPutthebreadinaroastingtraywiththebasil

layeroficingsugaroverthemPutthebreadinaroastingtraywiththebasilandplaceinanovenpreheatedto180degCGasMark4Cookfor5ndash10minutesuntilgoldenbrowntossinghalfwaythroughtoensureevenbrowningScatterthecroutonsoverthesouptoserve

WARMINFUSIONS

TheflavourofmostgreenherbsdullsafterevenashortperiodofcookingInfusingliquidsstocksandevensoupswithherbsatthelastminuteensuresthatthegreennotesofeachherbremainasfreshandpungentaswhentheywerepickedThemostcommonwaytoprepareawarminfusionistobringabout500mlliquidtotheboilremovefromtheheatimmediatelyandaddahandfulofherbsLeavetoinfusefor15ndash20minutesthenstrainthroughaveryfinesievetasteanduseimmediatelyWerecommendexperimentingwiththismethodOccasionallyyouwillneedmoreherbsthanyoumightexpecttogetthedesiredresult

moreherbsthanyoumightexpecttogetthedesiredresult

RoastedCourgetteandCobnutSoupwithLabnehandGingerTurmericandMintDressing

CourgettesarearelativelyrecentadditiontoBritishcookingbecomingwidelyknownonlyinthemidtwentiethcenturyasaresultofElizabethDavidrsquoswritingAdmittedlytheyarenotthemostfascinatingofvegetablesbutlabellingthemastastelessorwateryisunfairinourviewWhilsttheydohaveahighwatercontent(theyareafterallrelatedtowatermelonsandcucumbers)wewouldurgeanyonewhothinkstheyaretastelesstotrygrowingtheirownWhentheyaresmallandfreshtheyhaveasubtlenuttinessunlikeanyothermemberoftheCucurbitafamilytowhichtheybelongTheadditionoftoastedcobnutsinthisdishemphasisesthenuttinessinherentinourfreshproducemagnificentlyThereisanimpressiverowofcobnuttreesinthelowercornerofthe

WalledGardenResemblingagroupofwiselycontentelderstheseprosperousleafytreesareknownforbeingeasytokeepThisisprobablywhytheyarelovedbyallatBarleyWoodparticularlysquirrelsandchefs

SERVES81kgsmallfirmcourgettesslicedinto2cmpiecesrapeseedoil500gonionsfinelysliced250gcarrotsfinelysliced250gceleryfinelysliced1tbspsaltplusmoreforthefinalseasoning40gfreshcobnutsfinelychoppedthenlightlytoastedinadryfryingpan

FORTHELABNEH

500gyoghurtfrac12tspsalt1tbspfinelychoppedmarjoram1tbspfinelychoppedoregano

FORTHEGINGERTURMERICANDMINTDRESSING

85mlrapeseedoil

85mlrapeseedoil50mlcidervinegar1tspEnglishmustardfrac12tspgroundgingerfrac14tspgroundturmeric1tspchoppedmint

ThelabnehmustbemadeadayinadvanceLineasievewithapieceofmuslinandputtheyoghurtinitStirinthesaltcoverwiththeoverhangingendsofthemuslinandthensetoverabowlndashitshouldbedeepenoughtoallowtheliquidtodrainofftheyoghurtLeaveinthefridgeovernightThefollowingdaydiscardtheliquidunwrapthelabnehandputitinabowlStirintheherbsKeepinthefridgeuntilneeded

Tomakethedressingblendalltheingredientstogetheruntilwellcombinedthenseasonwithsalttotaste

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6TossthecourgetteswithalittlerapeseedoiluntillightlycoatedthenspreadthemoutinaroastingtrayPlaceintheovenandroastfor20minutesMeanwhileheatathinfilmofrapeseedoilinalargesaucepanaddtheonionscarrotsandceleryandsweatfor10ndash15minutesuntiltenderStirregularlyanddonotallowthevegetablestocolourAddtheroastedcourgettesandsweatfor5minuteslongerAddenoughwaterbarelytocoverthevegetablesandbringtoagentlesimmerAddthesaltandcookfor5minutesthendecantintoablenderinbatchesifnecessaryBlitzuntilsmooththenaddenoughwatertotakeittoyourdesiredconsistencywelikeitonthethinsideBlitzoncemorethenpassthroughafinesieveforavelvetymouthfeelSeasonwithsalttotaste(TheSoupcanbekeptinthefridgeforupto5daysatthispoint)ReheatgentlythenpourthesoupintoservingbowlsandfinisheachonewithatablespoonoflabnehasprinklingofchoppedcobnutsandadrizzleofthedressingServewithseededbreadandsaltedbutter

daggerCobnutsareoneofthemostwonderfulhistoricallyrichnativenutswehaveyetsurprisinglytheyaregreatlyunderusedinBritishcookingAvarietyofhazelnutthecobnuthasbeenpresentinourgardensandorchardssinceatleastthesixteenthcenturyHistoricallycobnutshavebeeninstrumentalinhedgerow-growingformingadenseboundaryto

keepdomesticlivestockcontainedTheykeepfreshformonthsandwerethusavaluablesourceofproteinforthoseatseaThemostcommonvarietytheKentishcobwasintroducedaround1830ItwasgrownsosuccessfullyinKentthatcultivationincreaseddramaticallyintheHomeCountiesfromwherecobnutscouldbequicklytransportedtoLondonDuringtheFirstWorldWarlabourintheUKbecamemoreexpensiveandthenativeplantscouldnotcompetewithimportedfruitandnutsThisledtothedemiseofplantsinKentculminatinginnear-extinctionbytheearly1990s

SousedMackerelCarrotFennelandSaffronwithGooseberryandMintGranita

MackerelareoneofthemoststunningfishinBritishwatersTheirstripygreenish-bluebackaffordsthemexcellentcamouflagefromabovewhiletheirsilverbellygivesanimpressivealmostethereallookastheyswimatgreatspeedinpurposefulshoalsThebesttimetoeatmackerelisinthesummerItisthenthattheygather

closetoshoreinsearchoffryallowingthemtobeeasilyline-caughtamoresustainablefishingmethodthannetsortrawlingItisalsowhentheystarttoputontheweightthatwillallowthemtoliveindeepwatersduringwinterTheadditionalweightisrichinomega-3fattyacidsandconsequentlytheyareOneofthehealthiestfishyouwillhavethepleasureofeatingWhenpurchasinglookoutforfirmshinyfleshandbrighteyesassignsoffreshnessSousingorpicklingmackerelisagreatwayofpreservingit

freshnessSousingorpicklingmackerelisagreatwayofpreservingitMackerelrsquospairingwithgooseberryisaclassiccombinationthathas

survivedthetestoftimeThenaturalpartnershipbetweenthesetwoingredientshasnotgoneunnoticedbytheFrenchwhonamedthegooseberrygroseilleagravemaquereauormackerelberrySadlygooseberriesarenotgrownintheWalledGardensowegetthemfromourfriendsattheCommunityFarmacoupleofmilesdowntheroadForaberrythatisregardedbysomeasaquintessentialBritishfruit

gooseberriesareprettyelusiveevenwheninseasoninJuneandJulyThefactthattheyhaveoftenbeencriticisedforbeingtootartmighthaveledtotheirdemise

SERVES4ndash61times350ndash500gmackerelfilleted8ndash12saffronstrands

FORTHECURE

100gfineseasalt100gcastersugar1tbspcorianderseeds

FORTHESOUSINGLIQUOR

250mlvintagecidervinegarsuchasOstlerrsquos100gcastersugar1staranisefrac14tspcorianderseedsfrac14tspblackpepper3saffronstrands1shallotveryfinelydiced2carrotsslicedintowafer-thinlongstripspreferablyonamandolinefrac12fennelbulbslicedwaferthinpreferablyonamandoline

FORTHEGOOSEBERRYANDMINTGRANITA

500ggooseberriestoppedandtailed100gcastersugar

10gmintleaves

ThisdishneedstobestartedatleastadayinadvanceRemovethebonesfromtheribcageofthemackerelfilletsusingapairofpliersortweezersNextlocatethebonesthatrundownthecentreofeachfilletWithanextremelysharpknifesliceatanangledownonesideofthebonesthendowntheothersideYouwillnowbeabletoremoveanddiscardthethinstripcontainingthebones

BlitzthecureingredientsinafoodprocessoruntilthecorianderseedsareasfineasthesaltandsugarSpreadthecuremixoutonaplatelargeenoughtoholdthemackerelfilletsPlacethemackerelonthecureskin-sideupcoverwithclingfilmandleaveinthefridgefor2hoursRemovefromthecurewashunderagentlyrunningtapandpatdrywithkitchenpaperPlaceinthefridge

ForthesousingliquorputalltheingredientsexceptthecarrotsandfennelintoasaucepanandbringtotheboilRemovefromtheheatandpouroverthecarrotskeepingthefennelseparateAllowtocooltoroomtemperaturethenchillCoverthemackerelintheliquorandleaveinthefridgeovernight

Tomakethegranitabring500mlwatertotheboilinasaucepanPutthegooseberriesinasteamerbasketandplaceoverthewaterCoverandsteamfor45minutesThesteambreaksdownthegooseberriesandtheirjuicedripsintothewaterThegooseberriesareleftwithlittleflavourafterwardssoarebestdiscarded

Removethepanfromtheheataddthesugartothegooseberry-flavouredwaterandstirtodissolveGentlyrollthemintleavesbetweenyourthumbandfingerthenputthemintheliquidandleavetoinfusefor20minutesRollingtheleavesbruisesthemslightlywithoutdamagingthemsothattheygiveoffmorearomaandflavourtheliquidmoreeffectivelyStraintheliquidthroughmuslinorafinesieveandleavetocoolthenchillPourintoaplasticboxandputinthefreezerLeavefor1houroruntilitrsquosstartingtosetaroundtheedgesthenremovefromthefreezerandrakestraightlinesfromtoptobottomwithaforkPlacebackinthefreezerfor30minutesandthenrakewithaforkagainRepeatuntilthegranitaiscompletelyfrozenintoicecrystalsItwillkeepinthefreezerforamonth

crystalsItwillkeepinthefreezerforamonth

WhenthemackerelhashaditsnightinthefridgeremoveitfromthesouseandpatdryCutthefilletsinto1ndash2cmstrips(thethintailsectionsmakeatastysnackwhileyouplateuptherestofthedish)ThesousingliquorwillbealittlecloudyafterthemackerelhasspentsometimeinitIfyouareusingthisrecipeforadinnerpartyandwanttogivetheextrawowfactorthendiscardtheliquidandmakeafreshbatchThiswillgivegreatclaritytothefinisheddish

ToservebunchsomefennelinthecentreofeachservingbowlandplacethemackerelarounditRollthecarrotsintoribbonsandarrangethemaroundthemackerelPourinenoughofthesousingliquidjusttocoverthebottomofeachbowlPlaceatablespoonofthegranitaontopofthefennelandfinishwithacoupleofstrandsofsaffronineachbowl

daggerMackerelhasbeenafavouritefishinBritainforcenturiesItformedthebasisoftheRomanliquamenalsoknownasgarumafermentedfishsauceusedincookingandwhichtheybroughtwiththemtotheBritishIslesRecordsshowthatasearlyas1353DanielRoughtheclerkofRomney

KentandaprominentfishmongersoldmackereltothelocalsBythe1660sitseemsthatmackerelhadbecomepopularfurtherinlandasitstartscroppingupinbreakfastdishesoftheperiodSuchwideravailabilitymighthavebeentheresultofanActofParliamentpassedin1669whichfinallydeclaredthatLondonrsquosfishmarketatBillingsgatecouldopensixdaysperweek

daggerContrarytocommonbeliefthegooseberryisnotanativeberryOriginallycultivatedincoolerareasofEuropeitgrowssowellinBritishsoilthatitquicklybecamenaturalisedRecordsfromtheroyalgardenatWestminstershowthatbusheswereplantedinthethirteenthcenturyBythenineteenthcenturygooseberrieswerecultivatedonalargecommercialscaleCompetitivegooseberry-growingclubswereestablishedallovertheUKandthequesttofindthebestandbiggestfruitwastakenextremelyseriouslyUnfortunatelyintheearly1900stheentiregooseberrycropwaswipedoutduetoamildewdiseasebroughtinfromtheUnitedStatesLuckilyforourBritishpalatestheplantwasreintroducedalthoughitneverregainedthepopularityithadenjoyedintheVictorianera

ChilledBeetrootSoupPar-celWalnutIceCreamandRoastedCobnutOil

DuringourfirstsummerattheWalledGardenwenoticedwithsomedegreeofsurprisethatwhenevertherewasevenaslightindicationofsunnyweathercustomerswouldignorethefreshlymadehotsouponthemenupreparedwithvegetablespickedfromthegardenthatsamemorningThischilledbeetrootsoupprovedtobeanacceptablealternativeTherecentsuccessofbeetrootinBritishcookingmustbedueatleastin

parttoitswonderfulcombinationofsweetnessandearthinessItsearthyaromacomesfromgeosminanorganiccompoundfoundinbeetsandthe

aromacomesfromgeosminanorganiccompoundfoundinbeetsandthesameionicaromayougetduringrainafteradryspellThisscentisdetectablebythehumannoseatverylowconcentrationsWalnutsareaperfectmatchfortheearthytasteofbeetroottheirbitternessbalancedbythesubtlesweetnessofthisgeosmingemMarkgrowsafascinatingparsleyandcelerycrosscalledpar-celItisso

pungentthatyouneedonlyasmallamountasanalternativetocelery

SERVES61kgbeetrootcutinto2cmdice500gonionscutinto2cmdice250gcarrotscutinto2cmdice1litrebeefstock(seehere)2tablespoonschoppedpar-cel(oruse250gceleryandahandfulofparsleystalks)

seasaltroastedcobnutoiltoserve(weuseoilfromHurstwoodFarminKentseeourlistofFriendsandSuppliersonhere)FORTHEWALNUTICECREAM

225gclottedcream75gwalnutsfinelychopped

TomakethewalnuticecreamsimplystirboththeingredientstogetherthenfreezeinaplasticboxBecauseofthehighfatcontentthecreamwillstillbesupplewhenfrozenandbeautifulscoopedswirlscanbemadebypullingaspoonoverthesurfacejustbeforeservingthesoup

Putthebeetrootonionsandcarrotsintoapanwiththebeefstockandpar-celthenaddenoughwatertocoverthevegetablesBringtotheboilcoverandsimmerfor35minutesoruntilthevegetablesaretenderbutnotfallingapartPourthecontentsintoacolandersetoverabowlandleaveuntilthoroughlydrainedTastethestockandseasonwithsalttotasteItwillbeadarkrichcolourandheavilyredonthespoonWatchyoursummerwhites

ThesoupistheliquidthatcomesfromdrainingthevegetablessoleavethistocoolandthenchillIfyouneedtochillthesoupquicklyplaceicecubesinafreezerbagsealitandfloatitintheliquidAlternativelymakethesouponthesamedayasthewalnuticecreamandchillitovernightThevegetables

thesamedayasthewalnuticecreamandchillitovernightThevegetablesthathavebeencookedinthestockcanbereservedandservedasamashonanotheroccasion(mashtherootsandonionsseasonwithsaltbutterandchoppedtarragonreheatgentlyandservewithleftoversmustardisgreattolivenituptoo)

Servethesoupchilledwithaspoonfulofthewalnuticecreamandasmatteringofrichroastedcobnutoilwhichwillshimmeronthesurfacealluringly

daggerWalnutsareoneofthemostpopularnutsinBritainhistoricalrecordsshowthatwalnuttreesweregrownintheearlymedievalperiodTheyareagluttonrsquosdelightSinceharvestswereuncertainfromoneyeartothenextitwasthoughtacceptabletoeatasmanywalnutsaspossiblewhentheharvestwasplentifulWalnutswerethoughttohelpdigestionsotheywereeatenwholeattheendofthemealOnecanimaginethatthisbeliefdespitebeingtotallyunfoundedwouldhaveencouragedpost-mealconversationwhichisprobablythereasonthetraditioncontinuedwellintothetwentiethcentury

Ewersquos-curd-stuffedCourgetteFlowerswithFennelSherbet

CourgetteflowershaveneverreallybeenpopularintheUKPaucirclahasfondmemoriesofeatingtheminquesadillasinMexicowhenshewasachildSheusedtobuythematastallonhergrandmotherrsquosstreetclosetothemarketwheretheywouldarriveeverymorningincopiousamountsaddingatouchofsunshinetoanalreadycolourfulstallShetalkedaboutthemsomuchthattheywereoneofthefirstdishesMatthewtriedwhenhetravelledtoMexicotomeetPaucirclarsquosfamilySincethenwehavewonderedwhethertheirlackofpopularityintheUKisdowntothegeneralviewthatcourgettesdonottasteofmuchatallandconsequentlythattheirflowersdonrsquoteitherTheygrowwellheresothereshouldcertainlynotbeashortageofflowersinthesummerItwouldbeanabsolutepleasureforusiftheBritishcouldadoptthecourgettefullyintotheircookingInthisdishtheflowersarebakedndashprimarilysothattheewersquoscurdmelts

becomingcreamierbutalsobecausetheytendtobealittlebitspikywhenrawNotonlydotheylookfantasticontheplatebutsurelyfewotherflowersepitomisesummersoeffectivelyWedareanyonenottothinkofsunshinewhenpresentedwithabright-yellowcourgetteflowerThefennelsherbetaddsatouchoffreshnesstobalancethemilkycobnuts

SERVES41yellowand1greencourgette8courgetteflowersstamensremoved160gfreshewersquoscurd40gfreshcobnutslightlycrushedcobnutorhazelnutoilfordrizzling

FORTHEWILDFENNELSHERBET

100gicingsugar2tspcitricacid1tspbicarbonateofsoda1tbspwildfennelseeds(orordinaryfennelseeds)

Tomakethesherbetputalltheingredientsinablenderandblitzuntilthe

Tomakethesherbetputalltheingredientsinablenderandblitzuntiltheseedsarefinelygroundthenpassthroughafinesieve(Itwillkeepinanairtightcontainerforuptoamonthandisgreatwithicecreamsandsprinkledoverotherdesserts)Heattheovento200degCGasMark6Topandtailthecourgettesthencutthemalongtheirlengthinwafer-thinslicesusingamandolineorvegetablepeelerStufftheflowerswiththeewersquoscurdTodothiswefillapipingbagwiththecurdandplacethetipofthenozzleintheflowerbeforefillingAlternativelyyoucouldjustgentlyopenuptheflowersandspooninthecurdPlacetheflowersonaroastingtrayandbakefor2ndash3minutesuntilthecheesehasmeltedandthetipsoftheleavesarebeginningtocrispalittleRemovefromtheovenandkeepwarm

Arrangethecourgetteribbonsdecorativelyon4servingplatesandplacethestuffedflowersamongstthemLightlyscatterwiththecobnutsaddadrizzleofoilandthendustwiththefennelsherbet

GlobeArtichokeswithHollandaiseSauceandSumac

TheinspirationforthisdishcomesfromPaucirclaItwasthemostrequesteddishinherMexicangrandmotherrsquosvastrepertoireandwithgoodreasonShedidnotalwayssayyestothisparticularrequestasitwastrulyalabourofloveIttooksolongtopreparethatshewouldwaitforaspecialoccasionwhensheknewmostofthefamilywouldbepresentOnlythenwouldshestartthelaborioustaskofcarefullyplacingasliceofpanelacheesebetweeneachartichokeleafTheclosershegottothecentreoftheartichoketheharderthisbecameShewouldthencoverthemwithasecretmixtureinvolvingbreadcrumbsandeggsbeforedeep-fryingTherewasatleastoneartichokeforeachmemberofthefamilyandsinceitwasnotthesmallestfamilyyoucanimaginehowlongthewholeprocesstookForPaucirclaitsymbolisescommunaleatingwithplentyofstoriesandconversationbeforeyoureachedtheartichokersquoshearteatenwithagenerousamountoffreshlysqueezedlimejuiceandwasheddownwithamezcal(forthosewhowereoldenough)GlobeartichokesaremembersofthethistlefamilyAlthoughtheyare

availableallyearroundtheyareattheirbestduringthesummerThedayMarkthegardenerhandedussomeglobeartichokesstraightfromthegardenweknewwewantedtoreplicatetheideaofcommunalartichokeeatingWecameupwithhollandaisesaucewithsumacfordippingtheleavesintoItrsquosalsoprettygoodwithananchovyandcregravemefraicircchedip(seehere)whichmakesasimpleralternativetothehollandaiseoryoucanservethembothAwordofwarningisneededherethisisnotadishforthefastidiouseater

UsingyourfingersisprettymucharequirementanditishighlylikelythatyouwillneedtolickthemattheendDonrsquotbotherwithserviettestheywillonlyhamperyourenjoymentPlacetheartichokeplatewiththebowlofhollandaiseinthecentreinthemiddleofthetableandpeelofftheouterleavesfromyourartichokeDipthemintothehollandaisesauceandsumacbeforeeatingthetenderflesharoundthebaseofeachleafPaucirclarsquosgrandmotherwouldnodoubtapprove

SERVES44largeglobeartichokesstalksremoved

HollandaiseSauce(seehere)andorAnchovyCregravemeFraicirccheDip(seehere)toservealittlesumacforsprinkling

UsingapairofscissorscutthetipofeachspikyleafofftheartichokesThesespikesarenotsuchfuntoeatPuttheartichokesinasteamerandsteamoveragentleheatfor25minutesoruntiltender

Meanwhilewhipupthehollandaisesauceortheanchovycregravemefraicircchedip(orboth)Putthemintobowlsandsprinklethehollandaisewithsumac

RemovetheartichokesfromthesteamerandserveonaplateHaveasparebowlatthesidetodiscardtheinediblepartsoftheleavesStartpeelingtheleavesawayfromtheartichokeThebaseofeachleafyieldsasmallfleshymorselDipthebaseintothesaucesandeatstraightofftheleafdiscardingtherestoftheleafEveryleafyoueatwillyieldmoreandmoreediblefleshuntilyougettotheheartoftheartichokendashundoubtedlythebestbitndashbuttakecaretoremovethehairylayeroflsquochokersquo

PeaGoatBaconandLovageBroth

Baconandpeashasbeenaclassiccombinationsincethe1600swhenaccordingtoAlanDavidsonrsquosOxfordCompaniontoFood(OxfordUniversityPress1999)theyweresoldasstreetfoodlsquohotgreypeaseandasuckofbaconrsquoThepeaswouldhavebeendriedbutwefavourfreshpeaswhicharegrownbyMarkthegardenerInsteadofordinarybaconweuseourownlsquogoatbaconrsquoorcuredgoatloinIthasrichcuminovertonesfromthesimplecureandispleasantlysaltyLovageandpeasworkwelltogetherThisisworkingfoodndashitlooksandtasteslikeadishthatshouldbeeaten

afteraharddayinthegardenThegoatbaconneedstobemadeseveraldaysbeforerequiredbutoncecureditwillkeepfortwoweeksandcanbeusedinthesamewayasordinarybaconYourbutchershouldbeabletoordergoatloinforyoubutifyoucanrsquotgetholdofitsubstituteporktenderloin

SERVES41kgunshelledfreshpeasrapeseedoil4smallredonionsor8springonionscutintoquarters1litrewhitechickenstock(seehere)abunchoflovageleavesasplashofcidervinegarifneededseasalt

FORTHEGOATBACON

2goatloinsweighing250ndash350geachsilvermembraneremoved20gfineseasalt10gdarkmuscovadosugar1tspfennelseeds2tspcorianderseeds1tbspcuminseedsfrac12tspblackpeppercorns

FirstmakethebaconTietheloinstogetherwithseverallengthsofbutcherrsquosstringatintervalsof5cmorsoPlacethesaltsugarandspicesinafoodprocessororspicegrinderandblitztoafinepowderLaytheloinsonalarge

pieceofclingfilmatleast4timesaswideastheloinsCoverwiththespicemixtureandwraptightlyintheclingfilmPlaceinalargeplasticcontainerandleaveinthefridgefor5ndash7daysturningonceadayDonotdrainoffanyliquidthatescapesduringthistime

RemovethebaconfromthefridgewashoffallthespicesunderacoldtapandpatdryonkitchenpaperHangthemeatinawarmwell-ventilatedareasuchasthekitchenoranairingcupboardfor12hoursoruntilitiscompletelydrytothetouchndashatemperatureof25degCisidealsoadjustthetimeyouhangthemeataccordinglyWhenthebaconisreadyitshouldhaveadistinctsweetgoatsmellandberichincumin

ShellthepeasensuringyouhavesomethingelsetonibbleordrinkalongsidendashotherwiseyoursquollbeluckytohaveanyleftbytheendHeatalittlerapeseedoilinasaucepanaddtheonionsandfryuntillightlycolouredUsingalargesharpknifecut15slicesfromthegoatbaconthethicknessofbaconrashersAddthemtothepanandfrytilltheytakeonsomeofthecaramelcolourfromtheonionsAddagoodsplashofthechickenstockstirringtodeglazethepanPourintheremainingstockthenaddthelovageleavesandthepeasBringtoasimmerandcookforacoupleofminutesuntilthepeasaretenderTastethebrothanddecidewhetheritrequiressaltandasplashofcidervinegarVinegarwillcutthroughthefattinessofadishandcalmanysaltinessAbigbowlofpeasforteaHappypeadaysforsure

ScallopsinPuffPastrywithVermouthandFennelCream

ThislookslikeaverysimpledishalmostasifithadjustbeenpluckedfromtheshorelineChoosethecurvedshellofthescalloptoservetheminratherthantheflatoneThepastrycoverleavesyourgueststhetaskofdiscoveringwhatyouhaveplacedbeneathSincescallopsneedverylittlecookingandtheshellsconductheatsowellalltheingredientsquicklysteamunderthepastryasitcrispsintheovenThedishcanbeassembledinadvancekeptchilledandthenfinishedin10minutes(addacoupleofminutestothecookingtimeiftheyrsquovebeenkeptinthefridge)ThesauceisbasedonasimplereductionReducingliquidbyboilingit

rapidlyforcesittoevaporatecausingittothickengraduallyThecombinationoffishstockvermouthandcreambeginsassweetandrichandendsupwithasavouryandsatiatingbitternessafterbeingreducedFennelisaningredientinsomevermouthsandhasatriedandtestedaffinitywiththebotanicalflavoursinourvermouth(seehere)Thescallopscanbeservedonfennelfrondsthosefeatheryleavesatthetopofthefennelbulb

SERVES6150mlfishstock(seehere)75mlsinglecream50mldryvermouth(forourhouseVermouthseehere)6diver-caughtscallopsincludingtheorangeroeplustheirshells1smallcarrot1smallonionfrac14smallbronzefennelbulb320gpuffpastry(forhomemadeseehere)1eggbeatenwithapinchofsalttoglazeseasaltandblackpepper

Putthefishstockinaheavy-bottomedpanplaceoverafairlyhighheatandletitboilawayvigorouslyuntilreducedbyhalfitsvolumeAddthecreamandvermouthandcontinuetoboiluntilthesaucehasthickenedandreducedbyhalfagainTasteandaddsaltifneededthenremovefromtheheatand

leavetocool

Sliceeachscallophorizontallyinto3iftheyarethickenoughtodosoorinhalfiftheyarealittlesmallerCutthecarrotintomatchstick-sizedpiecesandfinelydicetheonionCutthefennelbulbquarterintoveryfineslicesAddalayerofeachvegetabletoeachcurvedscallopshellandplacethescallopslicesontopPouracoupleoftablespoonsofthesauceovereachscallopandcracksomeblackpepperoverthem

Rolloutthepastryonalightlyflouredworktopto2ndash3mmthickCutitinto6squareslargeenoughtocoverthescallopshellsPressthepastryontotheedgeofeachshellworkingrounditwithyourthumbsothesharpshellcutsthroughtrimmingofftheexcessThiswillsealtheedgesatthesametimeCoverwithclingfilmandchilluntilneeded

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6Brushthepastrywiththebeateneggandplacetheshellsintheovenfor8minutesoruntilthepastryislightlycoloured

PickledPollackwithFlame-roastedPeppersCucumberPulBiberChilliandWaterMint

PollackmakesasuperbsustainablealternativetoitscloserelativescodandhaddockwhichhavebecomeoverfishedalmosttothepointofextinctioninsomepartsoftheworldItsflakytextureisverysimilartothatofthebetter-knownwhitefishyetithassufferedabadreputationinthepastandhasbeencriticisedforbeingtastelessEventheillustriousJaneGrigsoninherbookFishCookery(MichaelJosephLtd1973)relegatedittothequalityofaMondayfishratherthanaFridayoneWecouldnotdisagreemoreTheearthinessoftheroastedpeppersperfectlycomplementstheacidityinthepickledfishwiththecucumberandmintaddingatouchoffreshnessThedishisfinishedwithascatteringofpulbiberchilliAlsoknownasAleppopepperthisisafruitymedium-hotchilliwithcuminovertonesasaltytasteandanoilyfinishItmarrieswiththemintexceptionallywellScallopsmakeagreatalternativetopollackinthisrecipe

SERVES4650ndash750gpollackfillet4tbspcoarseseasalt2redpeppers1cucumberahandfulofwatermint(orgardenmint)100glandcressorwatercressjuiceof4limesmixedwithequalpartsofcidervinegarafewpulbiber(Aleppo)chilliflakes

ThefirstjobistocurethefishbysaltingitndashthisdrawssomeofthewaterfromitScatterthecoarsesaltoveraplasticorwoodentrayandplacethefishonitskin-sideupCoverwithclingfilmandplaceinthefridgefor1frac12hoursnomoreInthemeantimeflame-roastthepeppers(seehere)andslicethemintostripsSlicethecucumberintolongstripsbypullingavegetablepeelerdownitslengthandwashandpatdrythemintandcress

RemovethefishfilletfromthefridgerinseoffanyresidualsaltandpatdrywithkitchenpaperItwillhavefirmedupnicelymakingthenextstepeasier

withkitchenpaperItwillhavefirmedupnicelymakingthenextstepeasierwhileseasoningatthesametimeWithasharpknifecuttingawayfromyouatanangleslicethinstripsoffishfromtheskinandplacetheminthelimejuiceandvinegarmixtureTheacidwilleffectivelylsquocookrsquothefishbyloweringitspHlevelThisforcescoagulationinthesamewayheatdoesbutmoreslowlyFinelyslicedasitisthefishwillneedamaximumof20minutesforthistohappenYouwillseeitturnwhiteassoonasitlandsintheliquid

ArrangethewatercresscucumberslicesofpepperandmintontheplatesPlacethepollackslicesamongsttheleavesanddustwithafewpulbiberflakes

DorsetBlueVinnyandFlame-roastedPepperswithCharredLittleGem

ThissaladissimplesummerfoodanddeservestobecookedandassembledinallitspartsoutsideFlame-roastingisourfavouritewayofcookingpeppersThesmokeimpartsadepthofflavourthatactsasagreatcontrasttotheirinherentsweetnessWeliketocookthemonabarbecuewhenthefirehasdiedawayandthecoalsaresearinglyhotThepeppersarelaidinaspiralformationdirectlyonthecoalsandturnedoverinorderastheirskinsturntoslateblackLeavingthemonthebarbecuefortoolongwillmakepeelingthecharredskinverydifficultsoanattentiveeyeisneededWeoftencookauberginesinthesamewayonthebarbecueoragashob

OncetheskinshaveblackenedmakesurethatyoudonotloseanyofthepreciousjuicethatiscontainedwithinthefruitIthasaflavourthatmustbeexperiencedWelikecorianderseedsherefortheirgentlegrassyorange-likeflavour

aswellasalittlegroundcorianderWealsodropafewcorianderflowersintothesaladTheirflavourismilderthancorianderleavesandatfirstglancetheyresemblecowparsleyDorsetBlueVinnyisastapleinourkitchenApieceontheripersideisblendedwithcregravemefraicircchetomakeasauce

SERVES4ASAMAINCOURSE6ndash8ASASTARTER2Romeropeppers200ndash250gnewpotatoescutinto1cmpieces6ndash8LittleGemlettucesvegetableorrapeseedoilforbrushing300gmixedlettuceleavesTheEthicureanSaladDressing(seehere)6ndash8corianderflowerheadsgroundcorianderfordusting2tspcorianderseedslightlycrushed

FORTHEDORSETBLUEVINNYSAUCE

50gDorsetBlueVinnyroughlychopped

50gDorsetBlueVinnyroughlychopped150mlcregravemefraicirccheseasalt

BeginbyroastingthepepperseitheronabarbecueasdescribedaboveoronagashobasfollowsturnagasringonfullplacethepeppersdirectlyontheflameandleaveuntiltheskinbeginstoblisterandblackenUsingmetaltongsturnthepeppersandrepeatontheothersideItispossibletoovercookthepeppersbythismethodsocareisneededtoensurethatonlytheskinisincontactwiththeflame(IfyoudonothaveagashobthencutthepeppersverticallyinhalfandremovetheirseedsLightlyoiltheskinandplaceunderahotgrilluntiltheskinblistersandblackens)Assoonasthepeppersareblackenedalloverplaceinasmallbowlcoverwithclingfilmandleavefor20minutes

Meanwhilecookthepotatoesinboilingsaltedwaterforabout12minutesuntilaknifetippassesthroughthepotatowithlittleresistanceDrainandleavetocool

PuttheDorsetBlueVinnyandcregravemefraicirccheinablenderorfoodprocessorandblitzuntilsmoothSeasonwithsalttotasteIfthecheeseistoostrongforyourlikingsimplylengthenitwithalittlemorecregravemefraicircche

WithalightlydampenedclothorhandtowelrubthepepperstoremovetheblackenedskinSplittheminhalfandremovetheseedsTearthepeppersverticallyalongtheirnaturallsquograinrsquointostripsabout5ndash10mmthickandsetaside

PlaceagriddlepanoverahighheatLightlybrushtheoutsideofeachLittleGemlettucewithrapeseedorvegetableoilPutthemonthegriddlepanandleaveundisturbeduntiltherearecharredlinesunderneathTurnandrepeatonallsidesuntiltheleavesarecolouredandtenderAvoidovercookingthemwhichwouldresultintoodarkacolourandacrisptextureSetasideinawarmplace

PutthecharredLittleGemonservingplatesamongstthemixedleavesScatterthepotatoesaroundandlightlydresstheleaveswiththesaladdressingDotthepepperstripsthroughouttheleavesandadddropsoftheBlueVinnydressingSeparatethecorianderheadsintosmallerflowersand

usetogarnishthesaladDustwithgroundcorianderandafewcrushedcorianderseeds

JohnDorywithMorelMushroomsFlatBeansHaricotBeansandHamHockStock

MorelmushroomshaveanaturalaffinitywithfishandmakeaparticularlyfinecompaniontoJohnDoryJackcanrememberpreppingthisfishduringhisfirstjobasakitchenporterThespinesweresharpbutthecookedfishwasarevelationAlittlefishmongeringisrequiredherendashitrsquosnotatallcomplicatedifyou

wanttogiveitagoyourselfThefilletsonJohnDoryareconnectedonlylightlyandcanalmostbeprisedfreewiththumbsaloneoncethespineisremovedwithscissorsTheoutsideofthefishshowsadistinctarcedlinethatsweepsinagentlelsquosrsquoThisiswherethespinerunsandisakeyidentifierinunderstandingitssimpleyetbeautifulanatomyIfyouarenewtofilletingjusttakeyourtimeanduseyourfingerstofeelaroundthebonesasyougoAknifeshouldonlyreallybeneededtocoaxthefilletsfreeinsomeplacesBythetimeyouhaveextractedthefourfilletsyouwillwellandtrulyunderstandtheprocessJohnDoryisoneofthefirstfishwelettheyoungrsquounsprepareattherestaurantWeonlygivethemonewarningonanykindoffishdonrsquotrubyourhandupwardsfromtailtoheadastheyarealwaysspikythiswayTherehaveneverbeenanycomplicationsandallcomeawaybeamingathavingmasteredanewskillSomefishhavedelicateskinswhichmakeverygoodeatingJohnDory

skinisoneofourfavouritesThesecrettoensuringitiscrispanddeliciousistomakesureitisverydrybeforecookingRemovethefishfilletsfromthefridgeandplacethemflesh-sidedownonaboardRunaknifesidewaysovertheskinlikeasqueegeeonawindowandasurprisingamountofliquidwillbefreedPatthisawaywithkitchenpaperandthefishwillbereadytocookHamandharicotbeanisaclassicpairingPulsescanbecookedwitha

pigrsquostrotterwhichaddsglossandsheenfromthegelatineinthebonesInthisrecipeweusehamhockstocktodothesamejob

SERVES4300gharicotbeanssoakedin2changesofcoldwaterfor12ndash24hoursthendrained

5gdriedmorelmushroomscidervinegar

cidervinegarabout400mlhamhockbroth(seehere)abunchofflat-leafparsleyorlovage200gflatbeans(alsoknownasheldabeans)trimmedandcutintobite-sizedchunks

rapeseedoil2JohnDoryweighing500ndash750geachfilleted(askyourfishmongertodothisifyouprefer)

flakyseasalt

CoverthesoakedbeanswithfreshwaterandbringtotheboilReducetheheatandsimmerfor35minutesuntiljustcookedbutstillwithalittlebiteDrainandsetaside

Coverthemushroomswithhotwateraddasplashofcidervinegarandleavethemtosoftenfor20minutesMorelsaretypicallyfoundonsandysoilandhavemyriadcavitiesinwhichthiscangettrappedGentlymassagethesoftenedmushroomstohelpfreeanysandorgritwhichwillsinktothebottomofthewaterOncethemorelsarecleanpourthevaluableearthyliquidintoacupdiscardingthesandydregsSlicethemushrooms

PutthedrainedbeansinasaucepanthenaddthemushroomsoakingliquidandenoughhamhockbrothtocoverthemjustbarelyAddtheslicedmorelsacoupleofstalksfromtheparsleyorlovageandtheflatbeansandbringtoasimmerCookstirringoccasionallyuntilthestockhasreducedenoughtocoatthebeansRemovefromtheheatseasonandcoverwithalid

Placealargeheavy-basednon-stickfryingpanoveramediumheatandletitheatupAddenoughrapeseedoiltocreatealargepuddleItmightsmokelightlyasitheatsthisisagoodindicatorthatitisreadytocookinSprinkleflakysaltontheskinsideofthefishandlaythefilletsskin-sidedownintheoilIfyoucanfitonly2filletsinthepancookthemin2batchesastheskinwonrsquotcrispifthepaniscrowdedIfyouhavesomesmallramekinsplaceoneonthemiddleofeachfillettoholditflatResisttheurgetomovethefilletsinthepanAfter3ndash4minutesthefishshouldhaveturnedwhitearoundtheedgesandthroughtothetopexposedfleshTheextremeedgeswillalsobegintobrownalittleOncethebandofwhiteattheedgeofthefishhas

begintobrownalittleOncethebandofwhiteattheedgeofthefishhasworked1ndash2cminwardsthenyoucanliftthefishslightlywithafishsliceandpeerunderneaththeskinshouldbealightcaramelcolourTurnthefilletsoverandremovethepanfromtheheatTheresidualheatwillbemorethansufficienttocooktheothersidewithinaminuteortwo

Servethefishalongsidethecookedbeanswithchoppedflat-leafparsleyorlovage

daggerJohnDoryisbesteatenwhensummerdrawstoacloseasJunetoAugustisthebreedingseasonIthasalargeeye-likepatchonitsflankthatconfusesbothpredatorsandpreytheformerfearingalargerfishandthelattermistakingitforamouthApopularlegendisthatthemarkonaJohnDoryisthethumbprintofStPeterthekeeperofthegatesofheavenThoughcoveredinspinesandyieldingaprehistoric-lookingflatbodyJohnDoryisafearfullytastynativefish

MusselsinCiderwithTarragon

MusselsareoneofourfavouriteshellfishWearetrulyaddictedtothemandfeelyoucanneverhaveenoughItisperhapswithoutmuchobjectivitythereforethatwewouldclaimtheyareoneofthemostoutstandingfoodstobefoundintheBritishIslesWehaveintroducedaWestCountrytwisttothisclassicrecipewiththe

additionofamedium-drylocalcidercalledPerryrsquosDabinettbutanygoodmedium-drycidercanbesubstitutedRatherthanusingfishstockweoptforthedeeplyrichandmeatypressure-cookedchickenstockthatisanessentialpartofourkitchenroutine(seehere)ChickenandciderhaveagreataffinitywitheachotherandyouwillsoonseewhythecombinationworkssowellinthisdishThelsquobridgingrsquoflavouristhetarragonIfyoudonrsquothaveanyyoucansubstitutestaranise

SERVES2(OR4ASASTARTER)1ndash15kglivemusselsrapeseedoil3shallotsslicedintohalfmoons1garlicclovecrushedunderaknifeandthenfinelysliced250mlmedium-drycider250mlbrownchickenstock(seehere)100mldoublecream4sprigsoftarragonseasaltsourdoughbreadtoserve

ItisimportanttocleanthemusselsandcheckthattheyarealivebeforecookingRinsethemundercoldwaterandremovetheirlsquobeardsrsquobypullingthemawayInevitablyafewmusselswillbeslightlyopenTapthemquitehardseveraltimesontheworksurfaceIfafteraminuteorsothemusselclosesthenyouknowitisaliveAnymusselsthatdonotcloseshouldbediscarded

HeatasplashofrapeseedoilinalargepanaddtheshallotsandgarlicandfryoveramediumheatuntilsoftenedbutnotbrownedAddtheciderchicken

overamediumheatuntilsoftenedbutnotbrownedAddtheciderchickenstockandcreamandturntheheatuphighwiththelidonOncetheliquidhascometoarapidboilandthereisplentyofsteamaddthemusselstothepanStironcecoverthepanagainandcookfor2ndash3minutesuntilthemusselsopenAddthetarragonsprigsandstirthemusselstocheckthatthemajorityhaveopenedAnythatdonrsquotopenshouldbediscardedItisfareasiertoovercookmusselsthanitistoundercookthemsoresisttheurgetocontinueanylonger

Withaslottedspoondividethemusselsbetween2servingbowlsthentastethecookingliquidandaddsaltifneededitwillprobablyalreadybesaltyfromthemusselsLadletheliquoroverthemusselsandgetamongstthemprontoAnemptymusselshellmakesaperfectsetoftweezersforremovingtheremainingmusselsfromtheirshellsanddecentsourdoughbreadwillthirstilymopupthelastdropsoftheliquor

SteamedMegrimSolewithRockSamphireandSumac-braisedFennel

RocksamphirehascomplexcitrusnoteshintsofeucalyptusandadelicatelingeringbitternessthatpairswellwithfishWeforagerocksamphirefromthelocalcoastline

SERVES260gbutteratroomtemperatureplusanextraknob1tbspchoppedmixedflat-leafparsleythymeandmint2tbspsumac4tbspcidervinegar2fennelbulbsrapeseedoil2carrots1megrimsoleweighing750gndash1kg(or1witchor2dabs)200grocksamphireormarshsamphireaglassofwhitewineseasaltandblackpeppercrustybreadtoserve

Beatthe60gbutterwiththeparsleythymeandmintthenchillBringthesumacandcidervinegartoasimmerinasmallsaucepanthenstrainandreservetheliquid

LightlytrimthetopandbottomofthefennelbulbsCuteachoneverticallyintoquartersthecorewillholdeachpiecetogetherinsegmentsHeattheknobofbutterinapanwithasplashofrapeseedoilAddthefennelandcookoveramedium-highheatfor5ndash6minutesoneachsideuntilbrownedandlightlycaramelisedAddsomesaltandthesumacvinegarwhichshouldroughlycoverthebaseofthepanCoverandcookgentlyfor20ndash25minutesthefennelshouldstillofferalittleresistancetothetipofasharpknifeWhenitiscookedwiththefishlateritwillbecomeverytender

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6Slicethecarrotsasfinelyasyoucan

downtheirlengthIfyoudonrsquothaveamandolineay-shapedvegetablepeelerwillmakeperfectstripstoo

Placealengthofthickfoil2frac12timesthelengthofthefishonaworksurfacePutthecookedfenneltowardsoneendofthefoilandrestthefishonitScatterthesamphireandcarrotsontopofthefishandseasonwithsaltandpepperPulltheedgesofthefoiluparoundthefishandthenpourinthewineCoverthefishwiththeotherendofthefoilandfoldtheedgesintosealittightPlaceonabakingsheetintheovenandbakefor12ndash16minutesuntilthefleshcomesawayfromthespineeasilywhenaknifeisinsertedneartheboneItcouldalsobecookedonabarbecuewithalidastheglassofwinesteamsthefishprettyquicklyThetimingwillbesimilarbutwilldependontheheatofthebarbecue

DropthechilledherbedbutterontothefishpriortoservingThisdishrarelymakesitoutofthefoilatourplacesojustneedsawarmplatetocarryittothetableEatwithcrustybreadtomopupthelastofthejuiceswhichareimpossibletoresist

SALTANDVINEGARPICKLING

SaltandvinegarpreservationisagreatwayofstoringforagedorgardensummerfoodsWhenusedasgarnishesandingredientsinthewintertheywilladdmuchtotheplateduringaseasonwherelessgrows1CalculatingyieldandnumberofjarsWashalltheforagedorgardenvegetablesthoroughlyinacoupleofchangesofcoldwaterWeighthevegetablesandmakeanoteofthequantityPlaceanemptysterilisedjaronthescalesandsetthemtozero(orlsquotarersquo)PackthevegetablesintothejarpressingdownwellandnotedowntheweightDividethetotalweightofthevegetablesbytheweightofthevegetablesinthejar(Soifyouhave130ginthejarand1300gtotalvegetablesyouwillget1300130=10jars)2CalculatingquantitiesofvinegarandsaltPlaceapanonthescalesandsetthemtozero(orlsquotarersquo)Addenoughpicklingorcidervinegartothejartocoverthevegetablesby1cmdepthPouroffthevinegarintothesaucepananddecantthevegetablesintoaseparatebowlMultiplytheweightofvinegarbythenumberofjarsyouhavelinedupandfillthepanwiththisamountofvinegarYouthenneedtoaddtenpercentsalt(Sofor1100gvinegaryouneed110gsalt)3SterilisingUsejarsthathavelidsthatwillsealwelljarsthathaverubberseals(egKilnerjars)arebest(removethesealsbeforeplacingintheOven)Preheattheovento140degCGasMark1WashthejarsinhotsoapywateranddrainwellPlaceonabakingtrayintheovenTheyneedatleast20minutesbutcanstayintheovenuntilneededastheyshouldbehotwhenthecontentsareaddedtopreventtheglasscracking4CookingtheingredientsThismethodisidealforfineorfinelyslicedingredientssuchascourgettessamphireandelderberries

courgettessamphireandelderberriesBringthevinegartotheboilandaddyourchosenspicemix

LowerthevegetablesintothebubblingliquidTheboilingwilllikelystopMaintainthehighheatandwatchfortheliquidtoreturntoarapidboilScoopoutthevegetablesandaddthemtothehotsterilisedjarsContinueuntilallthejarsarefilledthenpourthehotvinegarandspicesintoeachjarcoveringby1cmdepthWithteatowelinhandclosethejarsfirmly(havingreplacedtherubbersealsifusing)andturnthejarsupsidedown

Pickledrocksamphire

PERLITREOFCIDERORPICKLINGVINEGAR

100gseasalt1tablespooncorianderseed1tbspblackpeppercorns8staranise16allspiceberries8freshbayleavesfreshrocksamphire(seehere)

Frythespices(exceptthebayleaves)inalargefryingpanoveramediumheatuntiltheystarttoreleasetheiraromasAddtotheboilingvinegarmixfollowedbythesamphireandfollowtheinstructionsinstep4above

WaterBuffaloFilletwithClearChickenStockTarragonandSalt-bakedBabyBeets

ThechickenstockforthisdishneedsfreezingandthendefrostingthroughalayerofmuslintoclarifyitItwillhavegoldenhuesandbeasbrilliantandclearasbrandywiththismethodItisasomewhatlavishtechniquegiventhereductioninvolumethatoccursbutforaspecialoccasionsuchasasteakwethinkitisworthitThechickenandtarragonpairingistrulyawell-testedoneandthetarragonmakesagreatbridgeforthedelicatebeef-likefilletofbuffaloFormoreoncookingsteaksseehere

SERVES41litrebrownchickenstock(seehere)1kgbabybeetrootswiththeirleafytopsstillattached100grocksaltabunchoftarragon4waterbuffalofilletsteaks25cmthick(seehere)rapeseedoilseasalt

Freezethestockthenturnitoutofitscontainerandwrapitin2layersofmuslinPlaceinasievesetoverabowlthenputinthefridgeThegelatineimpuritiesandfatwillstaysolidinthemuslinatfridgetemperaturewhilethestockwillrunclearbelowResisttheurgetosqueezethemuslinitwilldraindryeventuallyThistechniqueyieldsabouthalftheinitialfrozenweightofstockinfinishedclarifiedstock

Heattheovento180degCGasMark4WashthebabybeetsandscrubthemwellTheywillprobablybeprettycleanatthisyoungagebutbemindfulofsoilresidueSpreadthesaltonabakingtrayandplacethebeetsontopWrapthetrayinfoilsealingitwellandbakefor1houroruntilthebeetsaretenderThesaltwilldrawoutmoistureandseasonthebeetsperfectly

About15minutesbeforethebeetsarecookedheattheclarifiedchickenstockinapanthentasteandseasonwithsaltifrequiredNowisagoodtimetogetyoursteakpansmokinghot

togetyoursteakpansmokinghot

BrushthesteaksverylightlywithrapeseedoilSeasonthemwithsaltbutnotpepperasitwillburnPutthesteaksinthepreheatedpanandleaveoverahighheatturningthemwithalongpairoftongsevery15ndash20secondsIfyouarecooking4filletsthiswillrequirestandingatthestoveturningtheminrotationduringthefewminutesneededtocookthemPeriodicallypresseachsteaktogaugehowwellcookedtheyareandwhenyoufeelyouhavethemspotonremovetoawarmplateLeavethemtorestsomewherewarmfor10minutesnolessThiswillallowthemtorelaxandreabsorbsomeofthejuicethatcomesfromthemInthistimedividethechickenstockbetween4deepplatesfinishingwithfreshtarragonsprigsFillasidebowlwiththebeetswhicharetobeeatenunceremoniouslywithyourfingersLayasteakoneachplateJobdone

WATERBUFFALO

WebuyourwaterbuffalomeatfromLowerOakleyFarmnearYeovilinSomersetTonyandJaneCoupekeepaherdof250ofthesedocilebeastsalldescendedfromAsianwaterbuffaloThecalvesstaywiththeirmothersforfivetosixmonthsthenafterweaningtheyeatnothingbutgrassandinwintersilagefromthefarmTheyareslaughteredat22ndash30monthsandthemeatishungforaminimumof21daysThereisverylittlemarblinginthemeatasmostofthefatisontheoutsideoftheanimalandaroundtheribsWaterbuffalomeathashighlevelsofomega-3fattyacidsandironandisregardedasanall-roundhealthyalternativetobeef

COOKINGSTEAK

WhencookingsteakthereareafewrulestoobserveAlwaysbringthesteaktoroomtemperatureforanhourbeforeithitsthepanasthiswillensureitcooksevenlySaltistheonlyseasoningtobeaddedbutnotfarinadvanceofcookingotherwiseitwilldrawmoisturefromthesteakTheheavierandthickerthepanthebettertheheatwillbedistributedcast-ironpansareidealThetemperatureofthepanisthenextthingtoconsiderItneedstobeveryhotsoputitontheheatandleaveuntilitissohotyoucannotholdyourhandaninchabovethenear-glowingsurfaceTocheckwhetherasteakisdonetoyourlikingpressitwith

yourthumbandgaugethepressurerequiredtodosoRaresteakwillfeelassoftasthefleshofyourcheekoveryourmolarsmediumwillbemorelikethefleshatthetopofyourcheekonyoureyesocketwhichismarginallyfirmerShouldyougetaskedtocookasteaklsquowelldonersquoandyoucanrsquotconvinceyourguestthatlsquomediumrsquowillbeperfectandtenderwithnohintsofredbloodnormallyassociatedwithafour-day-agedcutthenhereishowpressyourforeheadndashprettyfirmcomparedtoyourcheekandagoodwaytoconfirmthatasteakisovercookedthroughoutPainfultoseethatinthekitchenweknow

BarbecuedHorseMackerelwithCobnutSalbitxadaSauce

SinceweprideourselvesonhavingadirectrelationshipwiththeprocessofgrowingwemustadmitthatwearealittlejealousoftheCatalanwintercelebrationforcalcotsCalcotsaresuperbsweetonionsthatareforcedtogrowtallandpalebygraduallybuildingsoiluparoundthemWeknowouronionsandthisoneisacorkerAttentivegardeningisrewardedwiththecalcotadafestivalinJanuarywhentenderstemsarewrappedinnewspaperandthrownontohotcoalstilltheyarecharredTheblackenedskinsarepeeledawayanddippedinsalbitxadaaroastedpeppersaucethatisacachetofculinarybrillianceItisatitsbestwhenmadewithfreshalmondswhicharedelicatelycrispandeversoslightlymilkyndashqualitiesthatournativefreshcobnutsandhazelsshareGiventheabundanceofthesenutsinAugustweneededarecipeforthembeforetheyweresnaffledbythesquirrelsSalbitxadasauceprovedperfectusingupglutsofpeppersandtomatoesandanystalebreadInSpainsherryvinegarisusedbutexcellentvintagecidervinegariswhatwehavehereandithasequalvalueinoureyesWedecidedtocomeupwithourowneventforthesummermonths

whenheritagetomatoesareattheirpeakfourtypesofcobnutaredroppingfromthetreesandthebabyleeksarenighonimpossibletopriseoutofthegardenerrsquoshandsunlessthewordlsquociderrsquoismentionedThisisagreatcelebrationofallthehardworkthathasgoneintothegardenYouwillneedatleasttwogoodbagsofcharcoalplussomeonewhousedtobeascoutwhowillknowwhenthecharcoalisjustrighttocookonOhandiceinyourciderDeadposhWehaveusedhorsemackerelherebutherringsardinesorpilchardsline-

caughtseabassseabreamandblackbreamgreyorredmulletandpollackareallidealforcookingwholeovercoalsandwilllovethesalbitxadapairing

PERPERSON

1corncob4ndash5babyleeks1horsemackerelweighing400ndash500gcleanedalittlerapeseedoilabunchofsummersavory(orthymeorlemonthyme)

abunchofsummersavory(orthymeorlemonthyme)seasalt

FORTHECOBNUTSALBITXADASAUCE(ENOUGHFOR8)1moritachilli(orchipotlechilli)vintagecidervinegar5garliccloves500gheritagetomatoes150gstalesourdoughbreadcutintocubes4Romanopeppersflame-roasted(seehere)1tspsalt1tspsmokedpaprika100gshelledcobnutsfinelychoppedabout4tbsprapeseedoil

FirstmakethesauceTorehydratethechilliputitinasmallcupofboilingwaterwithatablespoonofcidervinegarmixedinandleavefor10minutes

Heattheovento180degCGasMark4WrapthegarlicclovesinfoilandplacethemonabakingsheetalongsidethetomatoesRoastintheovenfor25minutesuntilbothgarlicandtomatoesareverysoftPutthecubesofbreadonabakingsheetandtoastintheovenfor4minutesoruntilgoldenalloverSetthebreadtomatoesandgarlicasidetocoolthenpeeltheroastedtomatoesandgarlicbysqueezingthemfreeoftheirskinsReservealltheliquidandplaceitalongwiththetomatoesandgarlicpulpinablenderwiththepeppersDrainandchopthechilliandaddthatalongwiththesaltandsmokedpaprikaSplashenoughcidervinegaroverthebreadcubestosoftenthemDonrsquotbeshywiththevinegarasitisintegraltothetasteofthefinisheddishAddthebreadandcobnutstotheblenderturnitonandthenaddtherapeseedoilinaslowstreamtillthemixtureisliquidenoughtoblendTasteandchecktheseasoningAlthoughthiscanbemadeinadvanceyouwillhavetotrytoresisteatingitallbeforethebarbecue

GetyourbarbecuegoodandhotThecorncobsneeda30-minutedunkingincoldwaterstillintheirhusksbeforecookingThiswillmoistentheouterlayersenoughtoprotectthemfromthedirectheatofthecoalswhilesimultaneouslyaddingalittlemoistureinternallytohelpthesteaming

simultaneouslyaddingalittlemoistureinternallytohelpthesteamingprocessPlacethecobsdirectlyonthecoalsstillintheirhusksandcookforroughly15minutesturningevery5minutesuntiltenderWrapeachpersonrsquosportionofleeksin2or3layersofdampenednewspaperthensetthemdirectlyonthewhite-hotcoalsTheyarecookedperfectlywhenthepaperisentirelyblackenedandalmostburnedawayThecharredoutersandsteamedmiddlesareeversomoreish

BrushthefishwithalittleoilseasonwithsaltandstuffthecavitywiththeherbsCookonthebarbecuegrillturningonce(alternativelywrapinfoilandplacedirectlyonthecoalsfor5minutesperside)Thefishonthegrillcanbeconsideredcookedwhentheskiniscrispedalloverandthefleshcomesawayfromthespineeasily

HORSEMACKEREL

WediscoveredhorsemackerelwhenonedayitwasallthatwasavailablefromtheboatthatsuppliesusItturnsoutthathorse

mackerelarebright-eyedandgreatservedhotTheseshinylsquoscadrsquocanbefoundnativelyinthesummernotfarfromCornwallandareagreatalternativetocommonmackerelEversoslightlylessoilythanmackerelandgoodforroastingovercoalswestuffthebellywiththepepperymarjoram-likeherbsummersavoury

MixedwithvinegarsummersavourycanhavethesameapplicationasmintsauceSufficetosaywemakealittleofthisto

drizzleoverthefinishedcharcoaledfish

CURING

Saltingfoodorlsquocuringrsquowasamethoddevelopedtopreservefoodbringingdownawholeanimalmeantmoremeatthanthehunter-gatherercouldeatbeforeitwentbadItisbelievedthatdryingmeatwasoneofthefirstexperimentswithpreservationevenpredatingsaltingPeoplewouldleavemeatinthehotsuntodryoutorbuildasmallfireandplacethemeatoveritAlongthewaysomebodyfoundthatsaltingmeatofferedachemicalmeansofachievingthesameresultSaltingwasthencombinedwithsmokingtoachievealongerperiodwhenmeatwassafefromspoilageThesedaystheneedforpreservationhasbeensurpassedby

peoplersquostasteforcuredmeatCuredmeatspossessauniquetextureandintenseflavourbaconisprobablythemostobviousexampleofthisCuringisasimilarconcepttobriningbuthasadifferent

outcomeBrininggenerallyspeakinguseslowpercentagesofsaltinaliquidsolutiontobreakdownfilamentswithinthemuscleresultinginthemuscletakingonandholdingliquidduringthecookingprocessCuringontheotherhandcanbedoneeitherinliquidusingamuchhigherpercentageofsaltorwithadrysaltorspicerubCuringmeatdrawsmoistureoutcausingthemeattoundergo

apermanenttransformationintextureandflavourtheproductbecomesmoreconcentratedachievingamoreintenseflavourAndwhilethemoistureisbeingdrawnoutofthemeatthemeatcantakeonexternalflavoursThisopensupaworldofpossibilityforthecooktobecreativeYoucanaddspicesandherbstothesaltthenblitzitinafoodprocessorThisiswhatwedowhenwedowhenwecureourroeloin(seehere)andthegoatlointomakeourlsquogoatbaconrsquo(seehere)OurgoatbaconisoftenpilferedbythechefwhorsquoscookingonthestoveNeedlesstosaywersquove

almostalwaysgotgoatloincuringinthefridgeinafruitlessbattleagainsttheconstantsnarfingofourfreshculinarycreationTherearemanyvariableswhenitcomestocuringandyou

canbeascreativeandexperimentalasyoulikeAnyrecipesforwhichweusecuringincludethecuremixandtimeHoweverdoexperimentwiththetimethatthemeatisinthecurethetypesofspicesandherbsusedasthesewillallresultindifferentoutcomesAdoptaquestioningattitudeandseekoutanswersforyourself

FennelandSumacGravadTrout

ThisisourversionofthetraditionalScandinaviandishgravadlaxwhichtranslatesaslsquoburiedsalmonrsquondashanindicationofthewayitusedtobepreparedByburyingfishinaholeinthegroundinlayersitwaspreservedinanairtightspaceandlefttofermentTheadditionofsaltcamelateronwhenitbecamemorereadilyavailableOncethefishwasdugoutitmusthavebeenpungenttosaytheleastbutthebeautyofthismethodwasthatitallowedpeopletoeatfishevenwhenthefreshsupplieswerelonggoneHumaningenuityledtotheadditionofherbstomakeitmorepalatableandthecuringtimewasshortenedThecureinjectssomepungentflavourstobalanceoutthesubtletyinherentinfishHeretheaniseednotesinthefennelpairwellwiththecitrustonesofsumac

SERVES4ndash61ndash12kgfreshrainbowtroutfilleted

FORTHECURE

40gfineseasalt70gcastersugar2tspfennelseeds2tspsumac1tspcorianderseeds

frac12tspblackpeppercorns

PlacealltheingredientsforthecureinablenderorfoodprocessorandblitzuntilthespicesarefinelygroundSetaside

CheckthatnopinbonesremaininthetroutfilletsCutsomealuminiumfoilroughly4timesthewidthofatroutfilletand1frac12timesthelengthUseroughlyaquarterofthecuremixtomakeabedinthecentreofthefoilthesamelengthandheightasatroutfilletPlaceonefilletskin-sidedownontopSpreadtwo-thirdsoftheremainingcureoverthefishthenlaythesecondfilletontopofthefirstflesh-to-fleshSpreadtheremainingcureontop

BringthebottomhalfofthefoilupandthetophalfofthefoiloverthetroutsothattheyareedgetoedgeFoldthebottomfoiloverthetoptocreatea1cmpleatKeepfoldingthispleatoveritselfuntilthefoilisflushwiththetroutRepeatthesameprocessontheleftandrightsidesofthefoil

Placethetroutonatrayandweightitdownwithawoodenboardoracoupleofgood-sizedplatesLeaveinthefridgefor6daysLiquidwillbereleasedfromthefishbutavoidthetemptationtodrainitoffThishighlysalineliquidwillcontinuetocurethetrout

After6daysremovethefishfromthefoilparcelandrinseitunderacoldtapPatthefishdrywithkitchenpaperandleaveuncoveredinthefridgeforacoupleofhoursuntilcompletelydryPlaceonaboardandfinelyslicethefleshofftheskinatanangleusingaverysharpknife

ThetroutcanbeservedwithPickledPollack(seehere)orSpeltSodaBread(seehere)andCobnutSalbitxadaSauce(seehere)

WhiteRaspberryLoganberryandEwersquosYoghurtTerrinewithSweetCicelyConfit

Thisdessertusessomelesser-knownberrieswhichgroweasilyinBritishsoilWhiteraspberriesarenotthoughttobenativetoBritainbutthebushesattheWalledGardenseemtothriveandweobtainplentyoffruitChildren

attheWalledGardenseemtothriveandweobtainplentyoffruitChildrenseemtolikethemfindingtheircolourorlackofitratherintriguingTheyareverysweetwithlittleornoacidityandarebestusedindisheswheretheirsubtleflavourisnotoverpoweredLoganberriesaresurprisinglydifficulttofindAnineteenth-century

hybridbetweenablackberryandaraspberrytheylooklikeelongatedraspberriesacquiringadeeppurplish-redcolourwhenripeTheyareonthetangysideandbenefitfromtheadditionofsugarwhenusedincookingYoucouldalsoservethisterrinewithtwosimplecompotesofloganberries

andraspberriesasshowninthephoto

SERVES8ndash10500gwhiteraspberries(orordinaryraspberriesifunavailable)500gloganberries20ggelatineleaves240gfructose(fruitsugar)150gewersquosyoghurt100gdoublecream50gcastersugar1vanillapodmintleaves(optional)togarnish

FORTHEMACERATEDLOGANBERRIES

100gloganberries150mlcidervinegar250gcastersugar

FORTHESWEETCICELYCONFIT(OPTIONAL)

100gcastersugar100mlwhitewine20gsweetcicelystalksfinelysliced

FirstpreparethemaceratedloganberriesPuttheberriesinabowlpouroverjustenoughcidervinegartocoverthenleaveinthefridgeovernightThefollowingdaydrainreservingthevinegarAddthecastersugartothevinegarandstirtodissolvePourtheliquidbackovertheberriesandchill

vinegarandstirtodissolvePourtheliquidbackovertheberriesandchilluntilneeded

Verylightlybrusha750mlterrineorloaftinwithoilthenlineitwithclingfilmFillitwithwaterthengentlymovetheclingfilmsotherearenobubblesremainingunderneathDiscardthewaterandcarefullydrythelinedterrine

Put250gwaterinasteamerandbringtotheboilPutthewhiteraspberriesinthesteamerbasketcoverandsteamoveralowheatfor45minutesDiscardtheraspberriesndashtheywillhavelostalltheirflavourndashandreservetheraspberry-flavouredliquidthatremainsinthepanYoushouldhavemorethantheoriginal250gbecauseoftheliquidfromtheraspberriesWeighout250gyouwonrsquotneedtheremainingliquid

Steamtheloganberriesinexactlythesamewayweighingout250goftheliquidattheend

Place7gofthegelatineinabowlofice-coldwaterandleaveforabout10minutesuntilsoftMeanwhileaddhalfthefructosetothewhiteraspberryliquidandtheotherhalftotheloganberryliquidHeatboththeliquidsseparatelystirringtodissolvethefructosePourtheloganberryliquidintoacontainerleavetocoolandthenrefrigerateuntilneeded

TakethegelatinefromthewatersqueezingouttheexcessAddthegelatinetothewarmwhiteraspberryliquidandstiruntilfullydissolvedPourthisintothelinedterrinetocreateyourfirstlayerLeaveinthefridgefor2ndash4hoursuntilset

Softenanother7gofthegelatineinice-coldwaterinthesamewayTransfertheloganberryliquidtoasaucepanandwarmthroughoveramediumheatAddthesqueezed-outgelatineandstiruntilfullydissolvedLeavetocoolforafewminutesthentaketheterrineoutofthefridgeandslowlypourtheloganberrylayeroverthesetwhiteraspberrylayerReturntothefridgeandleavetosetagain

Meanwhilesoftenthefinal6ggelatineinabowlofice-coldwaterPuttheyoghurtcreamandsugarintoasaucepanSlitthevanillapodopenlengthwaysandscrapeouttheseedsPuttheseedsandpodintothesaucepanandplaceonalow-mediumheatUsingthebackofaspoonbreakupany

andplaceonalow-mediumheatUsingthebackofaspoonbreakupanyclumpsofvanillaseedssotheyareevenlydistributedStirringregularlyheatuntilthesugarhasdissolvedandthemixtureishottothetouchndashnomoreAnythingabovethisandtheyoghurtislikelytosplitresultinginagrainymouthfeelAddthesqueezed-outgelatinetothewarmcreamandyoghurtmixtureandstiruntilfullydissolvedTaketheterrinefromthefridgeandpourtheyoghurtmixtureovertheloganberryjellyReturntothefridgeuntilset

Ifpreparingthesweetcicelyconfitputthesugarandwineinanovenproofpanwith100mlwaterandbringslowlytotheboilstirringtodissolvethesugarAddtheslicedsweetcicelystalksandplaceinanovenpreheatedto80degC(orthelowestpossiblegasovensetting)Cookfor3ndash4hoursoruntilthesweetcicelyisslightlywoodyDraindiscardingthesugarsyrup

Toserveturntheterrineoutontoaboardcarefullypeelofftheclingfilmandsliceitinto8ndash10portionsLaythemonservingplatesanddotaroundthemaceratedloganberriesndashandthesweetcicelyconfitifyouhavemadeitndashinadecorativefashionMintalsoworkswellasagarnish

FRUCTOSE

FructoseisatypeofsugarthatisfoundnaturallyinbothhoneyandfruitandisdifferenttosucrosethesugarthatweconsumeinteaandcakesonadailybasisSucroseisabondbetweenthecomponentsglucoseandfructoseandisadisaccharideFructoseisamonosaccharideandoneofthesimplestformsofcarbohydratesItisworthnotingthatfructoseisoneandahalftimessweeterthansucroseandisthereforeoftenusedinsweetenersduetothefactthatlessisrequiredBearthisinmindwhenusingfructoseasyouwillneedlesstoachievethesamesweetnessassucroseWhenitcomestofruitypreparationsfructoseisourlsquogo-torsquo

ingredientMatthewandIainswearbyitespeciallyaroundthistimeofyearwhenthefruitarrivesinglutsandinterestingcreationsneedtobeconjuredupandattentivelytestedOnlythenwilltheybeaddedtotheever-changingmenuOnthebasis

thenwilltheybeaddedtotheever-changingmenuOnthebasisthatusinglikewithlikeisalwayspreferablewefindthatusingfructosewithfruitachievesamuchgreaterimpactthancanbeachievedwithsucroseItenhancesthefruitsrsquoinherentflavoursandnoticeablybooststhelsquofruitinessrsquo

GELATINE

GelatineisagreatmeansforsettingliquidsandgivesthelsquoclassicjellyrsquomouthfeelthatweareallsofamiliarwithWell-executedjelliesshouldbedelicateandsoftfarfromrubberyorchewyThelatterdefectisusuallydowntoanexcessofgelatine

HowevertheageofajellywillalsolargelyaffectitsstructureandconsistencyndashdessertslsquostiffenuprsquotheoldertheyareGelatinehasatroublesomehabitofnetworkingandjoiningupwithothernetworksofgelatineThemorethishappensovertimethemorewatertheytrapandthestifferthejellybecomesWeutilisethisphenomenontosticktheseparatelayerstogethercreatingoneuniformterrineLeftfortoolongtheterrinewilleventuallylose

itspleasantmouthfeelItisworthattemptingtodevourtheterrinewithintwodaysndashaneasyfeatonceyouhavetastedit

daggerBerriesformanintegralpartofourfoodheritageandarethequintessentialfruitsoftheBritishsummerTheywereanimportantelementintheVictorianfamilyrsquosfruitbowltheprominentcookerywriterMrsBeetonstatedadamantlyinherBookofHouseholdManagementthatthereislsquonofruitsouniversallyinfavourrsquoTheBritishpopulationenjoyedasurprisingpeakofphysicalhealthduringthemid-Victorianera(fromaround1850to1880)whentherewasatendencytoeatmorefreshfruitvegetablesfishandmeat

ElderflowerSorbetwithFennelSherbetandWildStrawberries

EldergrowsveryquicklyandwillrapidlytakeupspaceneededbyotherhedgerowplantssuchashazelchestnutandbeechLuckilyforustheneighbouringfarmerhasrefrainedfromcuttingbacktheelderandthereareseveraltreesthatgrowinthehedgesoppositeMarkrsquospolytunnelshighuponabankawayfromthefieldbelowWecollectasmanyofthesedelicateperfumedflowerheadsinearlysummeraspossibleWemakeourownsherbetforthissorbetVirtuallyanyspicewithin

reasoncanbeaddedtoicingsugarcitricacidandbicarbonateofsodatocreatethischildhoodconfectioneryWeusefennelwithitsaniseflavoursweetsourandaromaticWildstrawberriesaddthefinishingtouchThesetinymorselsofsweet

muskyaciditypushtheirwayupthroughthegapsintheredbrickpathsinthegardenTheychoosetheshadeofthelowboxhedgesandshadowsoftheherbpatchTheycanbefoundgrowingonheathlandandgrassyvergesandinmanygardensItrsquoswellworthtryingtogetholdofsomeastheytasteinfinitelysuperiortothelargercultivatedvarieties

SERVES4ndash610largeelderflowerheads65mlelderflowercordial50gglucosepowder195gcastersugar

TOSERVE

4ndash6ice-creamcones20ndash30wildstrawberries(ifunavailableusesmallcultivatedstrawberriescutintocubes)

WildFennelSherbet(seehere)

RemoveallbutthesmalleststalksfromtheelderflowerheadsandputtheflowersinabowlPutalltheingredientsexcepttheelderflowersinasaucepanadd690mlwaterandbringtotheboilstirringtodissolvethesugarImmediatelyremovefromtheheatandaddtheelderflowersLeaveto

sugarImmediatelyremovefromtheheatandaddtheelderflowersLeavetoinfusefor15minutesthenstrainthroughafinesieveDiscardtheelderflowersandleavethesyruptocoolTransfertothefridgeandleaveforatleast2hoursbeforechurningThisallowstheproteinspresentinthemixturetohydratefullywhichimprovesthewhippingqualitiesgivingasmoothersorbet

Freezeinanice-creammachineaccordingtothemanufacturerrsquosinstructionsWhenthemixtureisalmostfrozenblitzwithastickblenderfor15ndash30secondsthenreturntothemachineandcontinuetochurnDecantintoanairtightcontainerandfreezeforatleast2hoursbeforeserving

Toservetransferthesorbettothefridgeforabout10minutestosoftenslightlythenscooponeortwoballsofsorbet(orasmanyasyoucanfit)intoeachice-creamconePressthestrawberriesintothesorbetandthendustlavishlywiththesherbet

PineappleWeedJelly

Pineappleweed(Matricariadiscoidea)canbefoundfromMaytoSeptemberandlooksjustlikechamomilebutwithoutthepetalsWhetherornotithasthesamecalmingeffectaschamomileissomethingtobeexploredndashperhapsthisisacalmingandrestorativejellyrecipeItgrowsonwastelandandinplentyofotherplacestooItisoftenresentedbygardenersasitwillcompetewithotherplantsforvaluablespaceandnutrientsandthetaprootswillgripintoanysurfacehowevertoughThisisallthemorereasontofindoutwhosegardenyoumaybeabletopicksomefromwearesuretheywillthankyouforitTheflavourisextraordinaryasitresemblespineapplealmostperfectlyBoththeflowersandleavesareedibleWehavegiventhemeasurementsforthewaterforthejellyingrams

ratherthanmillilitresThisisbecausealthoughmillilitresandgramsareequal(ie100mlweighs100g)inrecipeswhereprecisionisimportantyougetamoreaccurateresultifyouweightheliquidThisiseasytodowithelectronicscalesandinfactwenowweighliquidsasamatterofcourseandrarelyuseameasuringjug

SERVES4220gcastersugar40gpineappleweed13ggelatineleavesCherrySpoom(seehere)orRoastedWhiteChocolateSpoom(seehere)toservePutthesugarinapanwith450gwaterandbringtotheboilstirringtodissolvethesugarRemovefromtheheatandaddthepineappleweedCoverthepanandleavetoinfusefor20minutesStrainthroughmuslinorafinesieve

Soakthegelatineinice-coldwaterforabout10minutesuntilsoftenedRemovefromthewatersqueezingouttheexcessAddthegelatinetothepineappleweedwaterandstiruntilcompletelydissolvedIfthegelatinedoesnotdissolvepourthemixturebackinthepanandplaceoveralowheat

Pourtheliquidintoajellymould(apineapplemouldlooksgoodifyouhaveone)andrefrigerateovernightoruntilset

Servewiththecherryspoomorroastedwhitechocolatespoom

ElderflowerandLavenderMarshmallows

ThelongcountrylaneleadingtoBarleyWoodisgreenandwindingBymid-summerthetreesandhedgesarounditformadenseherbaceoustunnelinpartsAtvariousspotsalongthelanearesoftalmostfurry-lookingelderflowerbusheswaitingtobepickedItrsquosthesamewhenyoustandatthetopgatesoftheWalledGardenand

lookdownthelanethatrunsalongsidethemainorchardHereitisimpossiblenottofeelasenseofcalmandserenityinducedbythedelicatelypungentsmelloflavendergrowingalongtheleft-handwallLikeagroupofplayfulchildrenheadsbobbinginthesunshinethesoftpurpleflowersgreetyoueverymorningwiththeirtranquilscentThesetwoingredientsepitomisesummerattheWalledGardenTheyare

traditionallycelebratedatthesummersolsticeanancientPaganfestivalthatisintendedtomarkthestartofmoreplentifulsuppliesinthegardenItisafestivalofgrowthandlifewhereherbsgatheredthenightbeforethepointatwhichtheywerebelievedtobeattheirmostpowerfularethrownintoabigbonfiretowardoffevilspiritsensuringanotheryearoffertilityinthesurroundinglandSummersolsticeisthereforeanopportunityforustocelebratethegardenatitsmostprosperousandwhatbetterwaytoenjoyitthanbygatheringaroundabonfireandroastingsomemarshmallowsWesometimestoasttheseandsitthemalongsideourchocolatebrownies

(seehere)insteadofthecherryandelderflowersauceToastingmarshmallowsusuallyevokesnostalgicsmilesfromourcustomersTheyarefairlystraightforwardtomakeYouwillneedanelectricwhisk

preferablyafreestandingonefortheamountofwhiskingneededtoachievetherightconsistencybutotherthanthatjustsomepatienceandtheyrsquollbereadybeforeyouknowit

3tbspicingsugar3tbspcornflourrapeseedoilforbrushing40ggelatineleaves750ggranulatedorcastersugar3largeeggwhites

FORELDERFLOWERMARSHMALLOWS

5ndash8largeheadsofelderflowerstalksremoved

FORLAVENDERMARSHMALLOWS

10lavenderspearsinflower1smallredbeetrootfinelygrated(optionalbutrecommendedtomakethemarshmallowspink)

SifttheicingsugarandcornflourintoabowlVerylightlybrusha35cmtimes25cmbakingtraywithrapeseedoilthendustwiththeicingsugarandcornflourShakeanyexcessbackintothebowlandsetaside

Putthegelatineleavesinalargebowlofverycoldwaterandleaveforabout10minutesuntilsoftenedRemovethegelatinefromthewateracoupleofsheetsatatimeandsqueezeoutasmuchexcesswateraspossiblePutallthedrainedsheetsinabowlandpourover185mlhotbutnotboilingwaterStiruntilthegelatinehasfullydissolved

Ifyouaremakingelderflowermarshmallowsaddtheheadsofelderflowertotheliquidthatthegelatinehasbeendissolvedinandleavetoinfusefor10ndash15minutesStraintheliquidthroughafinesieveandcontinuewiththenextstageIfmakinglavendermarshmallowsaddthelavenderandbeetroottothedissolvedliquidandinfusefor10ndash15minutesthenstrain

Putthesugarinalargeheavy-basedpanadd375mlcoldwaterandplaceoveramedium-highheatStiruntilthesugarhasdissolvedPutasugarthermometerinthesyrupandcookthemixturewithoutstirringuntilitregisters122degCRemovefromtheheatandstirinthelavenderorelderflowermixture

PuttheeggwhitesinthebowlofafreestandingelectricmixerandwhiskuntiltheyformstiffpeaksTurnthemixerdowntoalowerspeedandpourinthesugarsyrupinaslowsteadytricklebeatingconstantlyLeavethemixertobeatatamedium-highspeeduntilthemallowmixcoolsandthickensThisusuallytakesabout30minutesitisreadywhenathickribbonisleftonthesurfacewhenthewhiskingattachmentisliftedout

UsingaspatulascoopallthemixintothedustedtrayBesuretoscrapethesidesofthebowlthoroughlysoasnottowasteanyofthisfluffydecadence

sidesofthebowlthoroughlysoasnottowasteanyofthisfluffydecadenceLevelthemixtureandallowtocooltoroomtemperatureCoverwithbakingparchmentandleaveovernighttosetDonotrefrigerate

RemovingthemarshmallowfromthetrayisarguablythehardestpartStartbypeelingthemallowawayfromoneofthenarrowendsofthetrayWhenyougetenoughoffthesidedustinsomeofthereservedcornflourandicingsugarmixthenkeepgentlypeelinganddustinguntilyouhaveagoodcoupleofinchesclearofthetrayAtthispointflipthetrayoverontoaboardandgentlyliftitoffGravityshouldintheorydotherestofthejobIfnotthencontinuepeelinganddustingandturningitontotheboarduntilitcomesloose

Havemorecornflouricingsugarmixreadyandcutthemarshmallowsinto25ndash5cmcubesRolleachmarshmallowinthedustingmixturethoroughlytopreventstickingTheywillkeepstoredinanairtightcontainerforuptoaweek

SpicedGingerBeer

GingerbeerhasbeenbrewedinBritainsincethe1700sThetasteforitspreadacrosstheworldwiththeBritishEmpirebecomingparticularlypopularinAfricaandtheCaribbeanMeanwhilethelsquoBristolglazersquowhichincreasedthestrengthofpotterywasdevelopedlocallyinthe1830sandappliedtoearthenwarecontainersItallowedthisveryBritishtippletobesentfurtherandfurtherafieldThemesmerisingcollectionofphotographsobservationsandfactscontainedinJohnThomsonrsquosVictorianLondonStreetLife(DoverPublicationsInc1994)estimatesthatin1877300000gallonsofgingerbeerweresoldinLondonQuiteoftenitwaspulledthroughthestreetsbyhorsesinacontraptionresemblinganoldpianoanddispensedwithbeerpumphandlesBy1935thereweremorethan3000producersintheUKbutonlyafewremainItreallyisthetasteofBritishsummerPleaseserveinajuginthegardenonatablecoveredwithalinentableclothWehavealsotriedthisrecipewithraspberriesanditwassuperbWeaddedahandfulofraspberrieswiththespicesattheheatingstageandstillputthegingerinmuslinforthefermentationpartItwasaluminousred

MAKESABOUT2LITRES250gcastersugar5ndash8cmpieceoffreshgingerdicedzestandjuiceof1lemon2cloves3juniperberriesfrac12cinnamonstick3blackpeppercorns1tbspGBP(seehere)

Youwillneeda225litrecontainerwithalidplusa25cmsquareofmuslinandapieceofstringfortyingitintoaDickWhittingtonesqueparcelItisimportanttosterilisealltheequipmentincludingthemuslinandstringYoucandothisbypouringboilingwaterovereverything

Putthesugarinapanwithathirdofthegingerplusthelemonzestspicesand250mlwaterBringthismixturetoalightsimmerstirringtodissolve

and250mlwaterBringthismixturetoalightsimmerstirringtodissolvethesugarthenleavetocool

Pour175litresofwaterandthejuiceofthelemonintoyoursterilised2litrecontainer(alargeliddedplasticboxisfine)thelemonwillneutralisethechlorineinthewaterwhichwouldotherwiseaffecttheyeastrsquosproductivityStraininthesugarandwatermixturetietherestofthegingerupinthemuslinwithapieceofstringanddropitinAddtheGBPthencoverandleaveatroomtemperaturefor5daysBesuretoopenthelidbrieflyeverydayinordertoletoutanycarbondioxidethathasbuiltupotherwiseitwillopenofitsownaccord

Strainthemixturethroughafinesieveintoasterilised2litreplasticbottleandputonthetopSavetheGBPandgiveitarinseitwillhavegrown(Ifyoustoreitinthefridgeinasmallsterilecontaineritwillkeepforupto2weeks)After2daysthegingerbeerwillbereadytodrinkalthoughifyoudesireafizzierbrewleaveitforlongerRefrigerationwillhaltanyfurtherfermentation

SummerElder

ThisinitiallysoundsasthoughitmightbeathoroughlysweetaffairbutfearnotThebotanicalsintheginrevelintheirmeetingwiththeblackpepperandraspberrytincturecreatinganalmostsavouryflavourThesorbetweuseisfromMendipMomentswhosepedigreeherdofHolsteincowsgrazesjustoverthehorizonontheSomersetlevelsButthisdrinkwouldworkverywellwithanypre-maderaspberrysorbet

1scoopofMendipMomentsraspberryandelderflowersorbetatroomtemperature

50mlgin(welikeChasegin)25mlelderflowercordialdashofAngosturabittersdashofblackpeppertincture(seeboxbelow)

dashofraspberrytincture(seeboxbelow)3blackpeppercornsfreshlygroundblackpepper

FirstfillatumblerwithicetochillitInamixingglasscombinethesorbetginelderflowercordialbittersandtincturesGiveitastirwithabarspoontobreakupthesorbetbeforeaddingahandfuloficeandplacethetinpartoftheshakerovertheglasstappingwiththepalmofyourhandtosecureAgoodhardshakewillallowtheicetobreakupthesorbetandmakeasmoothtextureddrinkDiscardtheicefromthetumblerandstraintheliquidthroughastrainerandsieveintotheglassFinishwithagenerousgrindofblackpepperandthethreepeppercornsontop

MAKINGTINCTURES

FillajamjaronethirdfullwithyourchoseningredientandcoverwithahighpercentageproofvodkatotwicethedepthoftheingredientsLeavetoinfusefor2weeksandthenstrainintoanothercleanjamjarYouwillbeleftwithanintenseessenceof

yourchoseningredient

RawRhubarbSmash

AsmashissonamedbecausethemintissmashedupduringshakingDuringthemid-nineteenthcenturythesmashbecameasymbolofintemperanceinAmericaandwasafavouritesummerdrinkComparedtoitsolderbrotherthejulepthisdrinkisinthewordsofthecocktailhistorianDavidWondrichlsquoaquickbracerratherthanaslowsipperrsquoBeforethedrinkisshakenwealsomuddletherhubarbWebuildthis

cocktailinajamjarandthenaddcrushediceRawrhubarbhasgoodacidityandweuseitinsteadofthecitrusfruitoftheoriginal

SERVES125mlrhubarbsyrup(seehere)7ndash8cmpieceofrhubarbfinelyslicedapinchofsugar6sprigsofmint50mlbourbonwhiskey

50mlbourbonwhiskeyfinelyslicedrhubarbdustedwithsugartogarnish

PlacethesyruprhubarbandsugarinajamjarandlsquomuddlersquoitbypressingwithapestletoreleasethejuicefromtherhubarbandmixitwiththesugarAddasprigofmintandmuddleagainmoregentlythistimeAddthebourbon2moresprigsofmintandafewicecubesScrewthelidonandshakefor10secondsPackincrushediceand2moremintsprigsuntiltheiceispiledjustabovetherimServeinthejamjargarnishedwithathinsliceofrawrhubarbdustedwithsugarplusagoodsprigofmint

DoubleSloeGinandTonic

WeuseametalVictoriancoffeepottostirchillandservethistippleAfter10goodswirlsclockwisetheoutsidegathersadivinefrostWepourthe

10goodswirlsclockwisetheoutsidegathersadivinefrostWepourthedrinkintoateacupanddeliveritwithapotoficecubesInVictoriantimesservingdrinksinthismannerwasawayofconsumingalcoholintheguiseofafternoonteaThiswasinordernottooffendthebeliefsofthelocalsinfar-flungregionsoftheoldBritishEmpireItisstillageniuswayofdisguisingthoseearly-afternoondrinks

SERVES16raspberries200mltonicwater(weliketheFeverTreebrand)25mlgin(Chaseginisourchoice)25mlsloegin

PuttheraspberriesinaglassreservingonetodropintheteacupAddadropoftonicwaterandlsquomuddlersquountilasmuchjuicehasbeenextractedfromtheraspberriesaspossibleStrainintoasmallteapotandaddtheginsloeginandtherestofthetonicwaterDropin3icecubesandstirwellPourintoacuptoserveanddropintheremainingraspberrytheicecanbeaddedwithtongslikesugarcubes

RecipeList

GoatBaconwithOxTongueNasturtiumsandClarifiedHamBroth

WildMushroomswithSourdoughToastandThymeSticheltonCregravemeFraicircche

WildMushroomandSpeltPressedTerrinewithSpinachandRainbowChard

SwedishKnaumlckebroumldwithCottageCheesePickledBeetrootCarawayBeetrootCrispsandTomThumbLettuce

RoastCrownPrinceSoupwithTandooriSpiceWalnutOilandCrispSageLeaves

Salt-bakedCeleriacPortobelloMushroomandAppleSoupDeep-friedAuberginewithRoseHipSyrup

PearNativeNapeHazelnutCardamomandEwersquosCheeseSaladPreservedDuckLegChorizoButterBeanandConfitTomato

PotStewwithYinYangBeansWoodPigeonBreastswithPersianSpicedBulgarWheat

CucumberAniseedandBlackCabbageChickenMole

VenisonCiderandQuinceStewwithHerbedButterDumplingsFishSoupwithSpicedHeritageTomatoesFennelSeedand

EnglishTruffleOilToastSlow-braisedGoatrsquosLegwithCiderShallotsLentilsandGlazed

CarrotsPheasantKievwithWinterTarragonandStrawberryMyrtle

RareRoastSirloinofBeefwithBordelaiseSauceBlackCabbageandTruffleCauliflower

AlmondPearCardamomandChocolateCakeSeaBuckthornSorbetwithAppleandVanillaPureacuteeToffeeApple

andCaramelLemonBalmBeetrootAppleandCobnutCrumblewithRoastedWhite

ChocolateSpoomSimplesyrupsforsorbetsandspooms

SpoomRoastedWhiteChocolateSpoom

CherrySpoomItalianMeringueLordrsquosLovageAppleFlip

TheOrchardatBarleyWoodSalsifyandOgleShieldGratin

VincentCastellanorsquosVenisonChorizo

THEVALEBELOWTHEgardengraduallyaltersatfirstarippleofmutedcolourthattransformsintoaleafseaofredsandbrownsflecksofcopperandorangeandafaintshimmerofsilverbirchThelarchesstandtallandgreenagainstthisbackdropofcolour

WewatchtheorchardscarefullyastheirfruitcropsintandemCheddarCrossandRibstonPippinleadthewaywhilejack-of-all-tradesMorganSweetfollowsTheciderbarnsmellsjustasitshouldwiththecurativearomasofthesweetspicedapplesTrugsbucketsandanycontainersavailablelinethetimberwallswindfallssetasideTheoakpressperfumedfromseasonsofworkiswoundupasframesandcheeseclothsarefilledwithscrattedapplesThereisarhythmasframeafterframeisstackedlevelledandsecuredbeforethecogsareheavedandtheappletoweriscompressedAtfirstthereisjustatricklethenthejuiceturnstoaflowthatquicklyfillsourcontainersThecolourisgoldenandtheflavoursweetacidiccaramelGlassesarefilledandclinkedsmilesexchangedvarietiesnotedElenaandPhilwilldebateanddiscussthenextblend

Earlyautumnrsquosblood-coloureddamsonsseeoffthelastoftheraspberriesMarkrsquostomatoesbecomeaspicedsoupalongwithfennelandaremetinthebowlbyturmeric-friedlinghorsemackerelandsquidSourdoughbreadistoastedanddrizzledwithEnglishtruffleoilwithflavoursofboskywoodlandandfour-starpetrolFoundbyacaninetrufflehunterinSomersettheseirregularblackobjectstransformasupperForagersdeliverboxesandbasketsoffungiwithtexturesrangingfrompowdertothosethatslipfromyourfingersSomedeliquescebytheeveningRoedeerfindtheirthickwintercoatmutedtoadarkershadeWeclaimabuckortwoandstewsomecutswithciderandquincetobeservedwithplumpbutterdumplingsVinceCastellanocollectstheshouldersandsoontheyhangasbundlesofredchorizoBracesofpheasantsarehungandacoupleofthesered-eyedfirebirdsescapeesfromanearbyshootpeckaroundthegardenThecockisaflashofcolourwhilehispartnerthehenismuch

thegardenThecockisaflashofcolourwhilehispartnerthehenismuchmoresubduedinhersombrebrownfeathers

WoodpigeonsareperchedonthepostssecuringtheraspberriesunwittinglyawaitingameetingwithPersianspicedbulgarwheatThevinehouseisfullofearly-seasonMuscatgrapesThe100-year-oldvinersquoscroponcefilledsilverbowlsinthediningroomofBarleyWoodhouseSimonWillswhogrewupatBarleyWoodtellsusofthepleasureofeatingthissweetfruitduringwartimerationingandofmorningsshootingrabbitswithhismotherrsquosgundogBoyandSpanielwereateamwhenhecrawledsowouldsheAsthehedgesbegintocrophipsandhawssloeginisdebatedintherestaurantandeachcustomerpromisesafinerrecipethanthelast

GoatBaconwithOxTongueNasturtiumsandClarifiedHamBroth

lsquoGoatbaconhellipwhatrsquosthatrsquowehearyouaskMatthewandIaintakethegoatloins(twomusclesthatrunparalleltothespine)anddrycurethemmuchinthesamewaythatordinarybaconismadeTheymixthesaltwithspicessotheresultingbaconisfragrantwithnotesofcuminandfennelthatsitperfectlywiththeflavourofthegoat(seetherecipeonhere)ThetextureisidenticaltotraditionalbaconyettheflavourispleasinglydifferentThisbaconworkswellalongsideoneofourfavouritepiecesofoffaltongueTongueusedtobeverypopularbuthassincefallenoutoffashionandisrarelyseenonrestaurantmenusWethinkthisisashameItischeapeasytocookveryversatileandoneofthemostoverlookedmusclesSeehereforOx

TonguewithCauliflowerGilliflowerandHazelnutsandseehereforcookingtongue

SERVES4

800mlhamhockbroth(seehere)alittlevintagecidervinegarsuchasOstlerrsquosrapeseedoil12slicesofGoatBacon(seehere)cut3ndash5mmthick4eggspoached(seehere)12ndash16small-mediumnasturtiumleaveswashedanddried(ifunavailableusebabyrainbowchardleaves)

4nasturtiumflowersgentlywashedfineseasaltflakyseasaltblackpepper

FORTHETONGUE

1oxtonguebrinedandcooked(seehere)1egglightlybeaten50gdriedbreadcrumbs(seeheretoachievethebestbreadcrumbs)

Freezethebrothin1ndash2tubsovernightthenadayorsobeforeyouplantomakethisdishturnoutthefrozenblocksandwrapthemin2layersofmuslinPlacetheminasievesetoverabowllargeenoughtoholdthethawedbroththenputtheminthefridgeThegelatineimpuritiesandfatwillstaysolidinthemuslinatfridgetemperaturewhilethebrothwillrunclearbelowResisttheurgetosqueezethemuslinitwilldraindryeventuallyThistechniqueyieldsabouthalftheinitialfrozenweightofbrothinfinishedclarifiedbroth

Slicethecookedtongueinto4portionsabout5mmndash1cmthickLightlybrushtheslicesonbothsideswithbeateneggthendiptheminthedriedbreadcrumbstogiveanevencoveringSetaside

PuttheclarifiedhambrothinasaucepanandplaceoveralowheatBringtoasimmerthentasteIfitistooconcentratedaddcoldwateratablespoonatatimeuntilyougetthedesireddilutionSeasonwithapinchoffinesaltand

atimeuntilyougetthedesireddilutionSeasonwithapinchoffinesaltandasmallsplashofcidervinegarWhenyouarehappywiththeseasoningsetthebrothasideinawarmplace

PlaceafryingpanoveramediumheatandwhenitishotaddasplashofrapeseedoilTheoilshouldbegintosmokelightlyifthepanishotenoughAddthetonguefollowedbythebaconandfryfor1ndash2minutespersideuntillightlygoldenRemovefromthepanandplaceonalayerofkitchenpaper

ToserveplaceapoachedeggineachbowlandthenaddthetongueandthebaconSlowlypourinthebrothGarnishwiththenasturtiumleavesandflowersthenaddflakysaltandcrackedpeppertotheeggs

WildMushroomswithSourdoughToastandThymeSticheltonCregravemeFraicircche

ThisissupperforanautumnaldayThesumofallofitspartsandacollectionofflavoursthathavebeenenjoyedtogetherforcenturiesAutumnmeansthatitistimeformushroomsAnumberofforagersdropinwithboxesofthemthroughouttheseasonandwealsotrytogetoutasmuchaswecanndashespeciallyintothewoodsandhillsframedinthewindowsofourglasshousePleasetrytogetholdofasourdoughloafforthetoastWepickoursup

fromMarkrsquosBreadinBedminsterTheyhavetheirownlevainorstarterthattheyusetomaketheirBristolsourdoughThelacticacidinsourdoughproducedbythelactobacillibacteriagivesthisbreaditsuniquetastewhichworkssowellinthissimplemealOurbusinesseshavegrownintandemandMarkNewmanandhisfellowbakershavesimilarvaluestooursForonetheymakealltheirdeliveriesontheirlsquoBreadmobilersquoaheavyironbicyclewithabigboxonthebackThewarmwoodyaromaofthymeisbothbitterandsweetItwasalways

destinedtobepairedwithanassortmentofwildmushroomsJekkaMcVicarourqueenofherbspointsoutthatthymeaidsdigestionandwillhelptobreakdownfatinfoodsndashanothergoodreasontobeliberalwhenpairingitwithcheeseWechoseSticheltonforthisrecipeIthastoastandcaramelflavourswithanunderlyingbutterinesswhileitsblueveinsprovidepiquancyThebluesoftensthecheesealteringitstextureandflavourchangingthecolourfromwhitetosoftcreamThewholetrucklesareathingofbeautyacombinationofwhitecrustthroughtoabrightrustthatisalmostpink

SERVES4

2tbsprapeseedoil300gmixedwildmushroomssuchasslipperyjackpennybunrussulahorsemushroomsheeprsquosfootandpuffballscleanedandslicedinto1cmstrips

leavesfrom4sprigsofthyme25gunsaltedbutter8verythinslicesofsourdoughbreadfineseasalt

fineseasaltflakyseasalt

FORTHETHYMESTICHELTONCREgraveMEFRAIcircCHE

25gSticheltoncheeseroughlychopped75mlcregravemefraicirccheleavesfrom5sprigsofthyme

ForthethymeSticheltoncregravemefraicirccheputalltheingredientsinablenderorfoodprocessorandpulsetoasemi-coarseconsistencySeasonwithflakysalttotasteandsetaside

PlacealargefryingpanoverahighheatandleaveuntilitisveryhotAddtherapeseedoilitshouldbegintosmokeImmediatelyaddthemushroomsandthymeleavesplusadustingoffinesaltandtosstocoatthemevenlywiththeoilLeaveundisturbedforaminuteorsountilthemushroomscoloureversoslightlythentossandcolourontheothersideRemovefromtheheatandaddthebuttertothepanTossuntilithasmeltedandthemushroomsareevenlycoatedthenchecktheseasoning

WhilethemushroomsarecookingputthesourdoughbreadunderahotgrillandtoastturningeveryminuteuntilbothsidesaregoldenbrownThinslicesofbreadwillcurlunderthegrillandtheregularturningpreventsthishappening

RemovethesourdoughfromthegrillandaddacoupleofslicestoeachplateCoverwiththemushroomsseasonwithflakyseasaltandaddaheapedtablespoonoftheSticheltoncregravemefraicircche

daggerFromtheoldEnglishlsquoStichlrsquo(meaninglsquostylersquo)andTun(lsquovillagersquoorlsquohamletrsquo)SticheltonistheresultofacollaborationbetweencheesemakerJoeScheiderandcheesemongerRandolphHodgsonofNealrsquosYardDairyontheWelbeckEstateinNottinghamshireThisbluecheeseismadeusingunpasteurisedorganiccowrsquosmilkandtraditionalanimalrennetThedairyislocatedonthefarmandthecowsgrazejustyardsawayJoeandRandopharefocusedonpromotingarediscoveryinBritainoftherawmilktraditionTheywantedtonametheircheeseStiltonbutwerenotallowedtoundertheProtectedDesignatedOrigin(PDO)schemewhich

doesnotallowanunpasteurisedcheesetobeaddedtoitsranksWethinkSticheltonisanevenbetternameitwasanearlyformofthewordlsquoStiltonrsquorecordedinthetwelfthcenturyWereallyappreciatetheirdesiretomakethebestpossibleproductusingthefinestingredientswithintegrityandtraditionBravo

WILDMUSHROOMS

WearefascinatedbythesefruitingbodiesthatappearinamatterofhoursndashmyceliumnetworksPleaseuseamushroomguidethatisfullyillustratedandofferscomprehensiveinstructionsonidentifyingwhetheramushroomispossiblypoisonousRogerPhillipsrsquoMushrooms(Macmillan2006)isveryuseful

AfewtimeswehavebeenluckyenoughtocookthisrecipewithPennybunrussulahorsemushroomsslipperyjackspuffballsandsheeprsquosfootmushroomsHoweversomeofthesearedifficulttofindandeasilyconfusedwithnon-ediblevarietiesAgoodplacetostartiswithsomecommonvarietiesthatarerelativelyeasytoidentifyOnceyouhavebuiltupagoodknowledgeofthesehaveatentativelookfurtherafield

MushroomslovedampweatherfollowedbysunshinesotrytopickonadrydayBrushoffanydebriswithasmallmushroombrushndashatoothbrushworksatreatbutmakesureyouuseitexclusivelyforthatactivityCheckformaggotsandparasitesbeforecookingThesearesomeofourfavouritevarieties

ChanterellendashCantharelluscibariusTheyhaveasuperbflavourTheyareassociatedwithpinebeechandbirchandsmellofapricotsTheycanbefoundonmossybanksanddampwoodsbetweensummerandlateautumn

ChickenofthewoodsndashLaetiporussulphureusAlongwiththebeefsteakmushroomthisistheonlyotherbracketfunguswortheatingItcanpotentiallyyielduptoakilooffleshandcanbefoundgrowingonoldtreessuchasoakandyewcherrysweetchestnutandwilllowbetweenAprilandautumnTheyellowerthebetter

GiantpuffballndashCalvatiagiganteaThesemustbeacleanmilkywhiteandpredominatelyunblemishedontheiroutsideandwithinTheycanbefoundingrassyfieldsgardenshedgerowsandonwoodedgesbetweenlatesummerandautumn

JewrsquosearndashAuriculariaauricula-judaeThesehaveacolourthatwillbeanywherebetweenapalereddishbrownthroughtodarkThisgelatinous-texturedmushroomcanonlybefoundondeadordyingwoodusuallyelderFinditatanytimeoftheyear

FieldmushroomndashAgaricuscampestrisThisoneresemblesthemushroomthatmostofuswillhavehadfromtheshopsItiseasytofindandgrowsonpastureandgrasslandbetweenlatesummerandautumnBewaryoftheyellowstainerwhichcanbeconfusedwiththefieldmushroomitscaphasyellowstreaksandsmellsofcarbolicacidwhencut

MorelndashMorchellaesculentaAjoytodiscoverandeatItresemblesanirregularhoneycombCanbefoundonopenscrubwoodlandchalkysoilashelmorappleduringlateSpringoftenaroundStGeorgesrsquosday

OystermushroomndashPleurotusostreatusThesearecolouredsilver-greytoafawnybeigeFindthemontrunksorbranchesofdeadordyingdeciduoustreessuchasbeechallyeararound

ParasolandshaggyparasolndashLepiotaproceraandLepiotarhacodesTheselooklikeanumbrellawithanippleonthetopThestemandcaparescalyandtherewillbearingonthestemwherethecapwasattachedFindtheminopenwoodsandpasturesbetweensummerandautumn

PennybunndashBoletusedulisItrsquosanabsolutewinifyoudiscoverthisoneThismushroomhasnogillsbuttubeslikeaspongeinsteadFinditalongedgesof

woodsandingrassyclearingsBewareofDevilrsquosBoletendashBoletussatanaswhichhasawhitegreycapwithorangesporesandaflushofredonthestemasitwillcauseanupsetstomach

StGeorgersquosmushroomndashCalocybegambosaAfavouriteeatenrawatTheEthicurean(seehere)itcanbefoundongrassyclearingsroadsidesandontheedgesofwoodsAgoodonetoidentifysinceitisspecifictoearlyMayoftenappearingaweekafterthe23rdApril

WildMushroomandSpeltPressedTerrinewithSpinachandRainbowChard

TheridgeoppositeTheEthicureaniscalledBlackDownThehighesthillin

TheridgeoppositeTheEthicureaniscalledBlackDownThehighesthillintheMendipsitiscoveredinamixtureofheatherandbrackenInitsshadowsarepatchesofdeciduouswoodlandwherewehavefoundwoodblewitmushroomswiththeexpertguidanceofourfriendandforagerAdrianBootsWoodblewitsgrowinleaflitterandrangeincolourfromlilactoarichpurple-pinkwithanintenselyperfumedaromaTheyhavebeensoldinEnglishmarketssincethethirteenthcenturyWeloveusingtheminthisterrinebutitisimportanttohavethemexpertlyidentifiedassomeharmfulvarietiescanbemistakenforthemAlwayscookthemthoroughlyastheyshouldnotbeeatenrawWildmushroomsvarydramaticallyinflavourdependingonthevariety

AnygoodediblewildmushroomsyoucangetyourhandsonwillworkperfectlywellhereIfyouareinterestinginpickingyourownbookyourselfontoagoodforagingcoursendashtheyareruninmostpartsofthecountryOtherwiseboughtbuttonmushroomsorbrownmushroomscanbeusedinthisrecipeandyouwillstillhaveadelectableterrineWewraptheterrineinamixtureofspinachandchardforaspectacular

appearanceandlayeritwiththecolourfulstalksofrainbowchardItsearthinessiscompletelyathomewiththemushroomsandspeltPearledspelthasafirmtextureandgentlenuttyflavourAlthoughitisatypeofwheatsomepeoplewithwheatintolerancesfinditeasiertodigestIthasbeeneateninBritainforthousandsofyearsandwasfavouredbytheRomansOurscomesfromSharphamParkclosetoGlastonburyinSomersetTheyareagreatoutfitandtrueproponentsofamoresustainablewayoffarming

SERVES6ndash8

300gpearledspeltasprigofrosemary2sprigsofthyme400mlvegetablestock(seehere)200gmixedspinachandrainbowchardpreferablywithlargeleaves50gsaltedbutter300gwildmushroomssuchasbluefoothedgehogfungussheeprsquosfootpennybunrussulaorslipperyjacks(orbuttonorbrownmushrooms)cutintoslices1cmthick

3mediumeggyolks1frac12tspDijonmustard

1frac12tspDijonmustard1frac12tspvintagecidervinegarsuchasOstlerrsquosrapeseedoilforbrushingfineseasalt

Putthespeltintoasaucepanwiththerosemaryandthymeaddthevegetablestockand550mlwaterandbringtotheboilCoverthepanreducetheheatandcookfor1ndash1frac12hoursuntilthespeltistenderbutstillretainsalittlebiteAlltheliquidshouldbeabsorbed

Meanwhileputalargepanofwaterontoboiladding3tablespoonsofsaltFillapanorbowlwithcoldwaterandiceandsetasideSeparatethestalksfromtheleavesofthespinachandchardkeepingtheleaveswholeChopthestalksinto3cmpiecesAddtheleavestotheboilingwaterandblanchfor30ndash45secondsthenremovewithaslottedspoonandtransferstraighttotheicebathThiswillhelpretainthevibrantcolourStirtheleavestochillthemquicklyOncetheyarethoroughlycoldremovethemacoupleatatimeandsqueezeasmuchmoisturefromthemaspossibleNextblanchthestalksintherapidlyboilingwaterfor1ndash1frac12minutesTransferthemtotheicebathandstirtochillrapidlythendrainandpatdrywithateatowelorkitchenpaperSeparatethelargespinachandchardleavesfromthesmallonesthenplacealltheleavesandstalksinthefridgeuntilrequired

Meltthebutterinasaucepanaddthemushroomsandapinchofsaltandcookoveramediumheatfor5ndash10minutesuntilthemushroomshavesoftenedSetasideretaininganyliquid

OncethespeltisdonepickouttheherbsanddiscardPutthespeltandmushroomsintoablenderorfoodprocessoraddtheeggyolksmustardvinegarandsomesaltandpulseuntilthoroughlymixedChecktheseasoningandaddmoresaltifrequiredContinuetopulseuntilthemixturehasafairlycoarsetextureWholegrainsofspeltmaystillbepresentbutthemajoritywillhavebeenbrokendownintoapasteChecktheseasoningoncemore

Lightlybrushan800gterrineorloaftinwithrapeseedoilandlineitwithalargepieceofclingfilmGentlycoaxtheclingfilmintothecornersoftheterrinemakingsurenottotearitthenfilltheterrinewithwaterAtthispointyouwillseeanyairbubblesbeneaththeclingfilmManipulatethe

pointyouwillseeanyairbubblesbeneaththeclingfilmManipulatetheclingfilmtoremovethemthenpouroutthewaterandcarefullydrytheinsideHavethelargerspinachandchardleavesatthereadyDrapethemdownonesideoftheterrinemakingsuretherearenogapssothetipofeachleafreachesthecentreofthebaseofthedishAnyexcessleafshouldoverhangtheedgeoftheterrineRepeatontheothersideandtheendsIfanyterrineisvisiblethroughtheleavesthenpatchtheseareasusingsmallerleavesuntilitiscompletelycovered

Decanthalfthespeltandmushroommixtureintotheterrineandpressdownuntilitiscompletelylevelandfillingall4cornersLayerthespinachandchardstalkslengthwaysendtoendontopofthespeltmixsothattheycompletelycoveritAddasecondlayerofstalksofdifferentcoloursifyouwishCoverthestalkswiththeremainingspeltmixsoitreachesthetopoftheterrineLayersomesmallerspinachorchardleavesoveritthenfoldovertheoverhangingleavessothatthespeltmixiscompletelywrappedinthespinachandchardleaves

Placeinthefridgeandleaveforatleast2hoursTurntheterrineoutpeelofftheclingfilmandthencutintoslicesandputthemonservingplatesCoverwithclingfilmandleavetocometoroomtemperaturefor30minutesbeforeservingItrsquosgreatwithbreadchutneyandafewsaladleaves

daggerSpinachwasonlyintroducedintoEnglandaroundthe1500spriorreferencestothisleafwouldhavementionedplantssuchaschicoryoracheandGoodKingHenry(Chenopodiumbonus-henricus)WehaveusedthelatteralotinourkitchenItcanbefoundalongroadsidesandoncultivatedlandWithtriangularorspear-shapedleavesitgrowsyear-roundandmakesagreatsubstituteforspinach

SwedishKnaumlckebroumldwithCottageCheesePickledBeetrootCarawayBeetrootCrispsandTomThumbLettuce

AutumnsignalsthestartofthegameseasonanditiseasytoeatnothingbutmeatatthistimeofwonderfulglutsThissaladisourwayofredressingthebalanceandofferingafreshstartertowhatmightbeameatyautumnalfeastWeuseLongleyrsquoscottagecheesewhichwefindfarsuperiortoallthe

otherswehavetriedItscleanlacticfreshnessworksparticularlywellwiththesweetnessofthebeetrootThespicesareheatedinadrypantohelpreleasetheiressentialoilsThis

makesthemmorepungentandwithgreaterdepthasifsomethingwithinthemhadcometolifeAsthearomafillstheairitisagreattimetothinkaboutwhatcharacteraspicehasSomewillshowmentholtonesotherswillberesinouscitrusgrassybitterWhenyoubreakdownthetasteintoseparatecomponentsitiseasytodecidewheretheymightbeusefulinrelationtootheringredientsCuminhasanearthyflavoursimilartothatofbeetrootCitruswillalsocomethroughmimickinglemonpeelwhichisanidealpairingwithbeetsCarawayisincludedheretoofferasweetspiceedgecomplementingthelightsournessintheryecrispbreadsItalsohasanisetoneswhichweheightenwiththeadditionoffennelseed

SERVES4

1tspcuminseeds1tspcarawayseeds2TomThumblettucesorotherroundsoftbutterheadlettuces225gcottagecheesepreferablyLongleyFarm4tbspPickledBeetroot(seehere)seasalt

FORTHEBEETROOTCRISPS

2Chioggiabeetroot(ifyoucanrsquotgetthemuseordinarybeetroot)icingsugarfordusting

FORTHEKNAumlCKEBROumlD

240mlmilk

240mlmilk45ghoneyfrac12sachet(35g)ofdriedactiveyeast270gwholemealflour80gryeflour30gspeltflourfrac12tspfineseasalt1tspcarawayseedstoastedinadryfryingpanandthencrushed1tspfennelseedstoastedinadryfryingpanandthencrushed1tspflakyseasalt

Tomakethebeetrootcrispsfinelyslicethepinkandwhitecandy-stripedbeetsthroughtheirequatorLaytheslicesonawirerackthatwillfitonanovenshelfDustthefinestpossiblelayeroficingsugaroverthemthenturnthemoverandrepeatPlaceinanovensetat50degC(orthelowestpossiblegassetting)andleavefor4ndash6hoursuntilcrunchyandcrisp

MeanwhilemakethebreadHeatthemilkandhoneyto45degC(justabovebodytemperature)SprinkletheyeastintoitandstiracoupleoftimesSetasidefor10minutesanditwillfrothastheyeastisactivated

SiftthefloursintoabowlandaddthefineseasaltandtoastedcrushedseedsPourintheyeastmixtureandstirtomakeadoughTurnitoutontoalightlyflouredsurfaceandkneadfor5minutesuntilsmoothandelasticReturnittothebowlcoverwithatowelandleaveinawarmplacetorisefor1hour

Heattheovento230degCGasMark8KnockbackthedoughbygivingitasmartpercussiveslapthatwillknocktheairfreeSatisfactionforthepacifistFoldthedoughoveracoupleoftimesandrollitbackintoaballthendivideitinto8piecesRollthesebackintoballscoverwithateatowelandleavetorestfor10minutes

Lightlydusttheworksurfacewithryeflourandrolleachballoutuntilitis2ndash3mmthickTransfertobakingsheetslinedwithnon-stickbakingpaperanduseapastrywheeloralargesharpknifetocutthemintolong(ish)rectanglesabout5cmwideSomewillbeshorterthanotherstheendsmight

rectanglesabout5cmwideSomewillbeshorterthanotherstheendsmightnotnecessarilybesquarebuttheflavourissettobebangonPrickthemlightlyalloverwithaforkandfinishwithacoatingofflakyseasaltPlaceintheovenandbakefor10minutesuntillightlybrownedTurnthemoverandcookforafewminutesmoretocolourtheothersideRemovefromtheovenandleavetocoolonawirerackTheywillkeepforaweekinanairtighttinbutgoodlucktryingnottoeatthemwiththecottagecheeseinthefridge

Toastthecuminandcarawayseedsinamedium-hotpanuntilthearomaisheavythentipthemoutontoaplatetocoolCrushthemtogetherwithalittlesaltandsetasideforuseasagarnishSeparatethelettuceleavesandplacetheminicedwaterfor20minutestocrispupDrytheleavesthenservethecrispbreadscottagecheesepickledbeetrootcubesandbeetrootcrispswithalittlepotofthefragrantseasonedcuminandcarawaygarnishingsalt

daggerFromahistoricalperspectiveitislikelythatthefirsteverattemptstomakecheeseresultedinafoodstuffsimilartowhatwenowcallcottagecheeseItisasimplecheesetomakeandonethatcanbeattemptedwithouttheneedforexpensiveorcomplicatedkitchenequipmentThefirstreferencestocottagecheesemakingintheUKdatebackto1831ThemilkwouldbebroughtintothehomeandplacedsomewherewarmwherethenaturalbacteriaincheesewouldproduceenoughacidforthemilktoformInthedayswhenfarmerstransportedmilkbynon-motorisedmeansthemilkwouldbeveryquicklyaffectedInevitablyitwoulddeveloptoomuchacidityparticularlyinwarmweatherCheesewasthereforeasimplebutbrilliantsolutionenablingthepreservationofvastquantitiesofmilkobtainedduringthemilkingseasonCottagecheesewasnotonlyeasytomakebutitwasoftenmadefromleftovermilkthathadalreadystartedtoturn

daggerCarawayisthoughttohavebeenamongthefirstspiceplantscultivatedinEuropeIndeedHaroldMcGeesuggeststhatcarawayhelpedtoshapeworldhistorylsquoancientEuropeanhungerforAsianspiceswasanimportantdrivingforceinthedevelopmentofItalyPortugalSpainHollandandEnglandintomajorseapowersduringtheRenaissancersquo(OnFoodandCooking2004)ThisgivesresonancetothesignificanceofcarawaytoourownlocalareagiventheimportanceofBristolasamainUKseaport

RoastCrownPrinceSoupwithTandooriSpiceWalnutOilandCrispSageLeaves

ThearrivaloftheCrownPrincesquashsignalstheendofautumnForusitisthekingofsquashesThissweetlyflavouredregalfriendisastapleingredientthatwillremainwithusformostofthewintermonthsItsvibrantorangefleshisdelicatelysweetandhasanexcellenttextureforroastingTheviolet-greyskinishardtocutthroughsoourchefsarmthemselveswiththeirbestknivestoreleasethegoldensumptuousnesswithinPerhapsduetoitsshapetheCrownPrinceissometimesreferredtoasapumpkinratherthanasquashBotharemembersoftheCucurbitaceaefamilycloserelativesofcucumberscourgettesandmelonsTheirfleshishighinwatersotheybenefitfromlongcookingwhichbringsouttheirhoneyednuttinessTheadditionofsagetothissoupwasarevelationItaddsanearthiermoremeatytonetothewholeensembleTryityouwillseeasideofsquashthatyoumighthaveneverseenbefore

SERVES4ndash612ndash14kgCrownPrincesquashpeeleddeseededandcutinto25cmcubesrapeseedoil500gonionsfinelysliced250gcarrotsfinelysliced250gcelery(orceleriac)finelysliced150gclarifiedbutter(seebelow)4ndash6smallsageleavesvintagecidervinegarsuchasOstlerrsquos2tbsptandoorispicemixwalnutoilfordrizzlingfineseasalt

Heattheovento180degCGasMark4SpreadthesquashcubesoutonaroastingtrayinasinglelayerLightlycoatwithrapeseedoilandafinescatteringofseasaltRoastfor30ndash45minutesstirringoccasionallyuntiltenderandbeginningtoblackenaroundtheedgesTakeoutoftheovenandsetaside

Heatatablespoonofrapeseedoilinasaucepanaddtheonionscarrotsand

Heatatablespoonofrapeseedoilinasaucepanaddtheonionscarrotsandceleryandcookoveramediumheatfor10ndash15minutesuntilthevegetablesaresoftenedbutnotcolouredAddthesquash1frac12teaspoonsofsaltandenoughwatertocoverBringtoasimmerandcookfor5minutesTransfertoablenderandblitzuntilsmoothAdjusttheconsistencyofthesoupbyaddingmorewaterifnecessaryseasonwithsaltandcidervinegartotasteandblitzoncemore

HeattheclarifiedbutterinasmallsaucepanuntilveryhotbutnotsmokingAddthesageleavesandcookfor1ndash2minutesuntiltheygoadarkshadeofgreenandarecrispDrainonkitchenpaperandkeepinawarmplacePassthesoupthroughafinesieveintoacleanpanandreheatgentlyDecantintoservingbowlsdustwiththetandoorispiceandgarnisheachportionwithacrispsageleafandagenerousdrizzleofwalnutoil

ClarifiedButterMelt250gunsaltedbutterinapanoveralowheatuntilthebutterhasseparatedGentlypourintoatallclearjugandleavetosettleWhenithasformedthreelayers(whitefrothytopclearyellowmiddleandwhitesolids)startskimmingTheaimistokeepasmuchoftheclearmiddlelayeraspossiblewhileremovingallofthemilksolidsUsingasmallladleskimoffthetoplayeranddiscardSlowlypourthebutterfatintoacleansaucepanleavingallthewhitemilksolidsbehind(discardthese)daggerThehistoryofsquashisratherinterestingMostvegetablefoodsleavenoarchaeologicaltracessquashisarareexceptionEvidencesuggeststhatitwasfirstcultivatedinCentralAmericamorethan8000yearsagoItisbelievedthattheEnglishwordforlsquosquashrsquoderivesfromthenativeAmericanwordaskutasquashwhichmeanslsquoeatenraworuncookedrsquoThisisasomewhatsurprisingchoiceofnamegiventhatsquashiscertainlynotatitsbestwheneatenrawItisevidentwhysquashwasastaplefoodbackthenitiseasytogrowhighincarbohydratesanddependablyversatileWhenitwaslatertransportedbytheSpanishconquistadorestoEuropeitwasinitiallyrejectedforbeingtooblandThefruit(foritisafruitratherthanavegetable)waslaterrediscoveredasitbecameknownforstoringwellandprovidingtheenergyrequiredforaharddayrsquosgraftinthecolderEuropeanclimate

Salt-bakedCeleriacPortobelloMushroomandAppleSoup

CeleriacrsquoscloserelationshiptoceleryisthereasonitispossibletodetecthintsofceleryinwhatwouldotherwisebeanuttyearthytastecommontorootvegetablesThisknobblyvegetableisnotverycommonoutsideEuropeWeliketoregarditasahiddengemItsdelicateaniseednotescoupledwithatouchofparsleyareintriguingandneverdisappointingInthisrecipewepairitwithPortobellomushroomstoenhancetheearthinessinherentintheceleriacAppleandceleryareaclassiccombinationandbeingsurroundedbyover70differentvarietiesofapplesattheWalledGardenwecouldnotresistthisadditionWefindthattheapplecomplementsthesoftcitrushintspresentinthisuglyducklingoftherootvegetableworldremarkablywell

SERVES8

125kgceleriac100gcoarseseasalt500gonionsslicedrapeseedoilbutter125gcarrotssliced250gPortobellomushroomssliced500mlwhitechickenstock(seehere)125gBlenheimOrange(orBramley)appleflakyseasaltwhitepepper

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6Peeltheceleriacandcutitinto4ndash6cmchunksItcanbedeterminedtoholditsformsogoeasywithyourhandsaroundtheknifeScatterthecoarsesaltoverabakingtrayandplacetheceleriacchunksontopCoverthetraywithaluminiumfoilsealingitwellaroundtheedgesBakefor30ndash45minutesuntiltheceleriacbeginstosoftenThesaltwillextractsomeofthemoistureandtheflavourwillintensify

Inalargesaucepansweattheonionsinalittlerapeseedoilandbutteruntil

InalargesaucepansweattheonionsinalittlerapeseedoilandbutteruntilsoftenedRemovetheceleriacfromthesaltbrushingawayanythathasstucktoit(thesaltcanbeusedagainforbakingvegetablesinthesamemanner)Addtheceleriaccarrotsmushroomschickenstockand500mlwatertotheonionsandbringtoasimmerCookfor30minutesoruntilthevegetablesarejustsofttothepointofaknife

PeelandgratetheappleLadlethesoupintoablenderfillingitonlyhalffullandblitzuntilsmoothPasstheblendedsoupthroughasieveintoacleanpanreturninganythingtoocoarsetotheremainingunblendedsoupBlendtheremainingsoupaddingthegratedapplethenstrainitintothepanandreheatgentlyTheapplewillremainafreshflavourifyouadditatthispointSeasonwithsaltandcrackedwhitepepperthenserve

Deep-friedAuberginewithRoseHipSyrup

WiththeirtannedskinandMediterraneanlooksyouwouldbeforgivenforthinkingthatauberginesgrowonlyinwarmerclimatesWhilsttheydorequireacertainamountofwarmthandwatertheyareperfectlyabletothriveinBritishsoilinthesummerndashorindoorswhenthetemperaturedropsTheybelongtothesamenightshadefamilyaspotatoesandtomatoesandarenotvegetablesinbotanicaltermsbutenormousberriesThegentlemenofthenightshadefamilytheyarerarelyassertiveInsteadtheyliketoblendwiththeirsurroundingsofferingasmoothdelicateflavourEveniftheirpresencesometimesbordersonthesideoffleshyitisstillwonderfullyunderstatedDespitetheoccasionalhintofbitternesstheyarefartoogoodmanneredforthistobecomeinsultingndashwhichisnottosaythattheyareblandsimplythattheyseektocomplementtheircompanionsratherthanimposeonthemSomewouldcallthisversatilityWefrytheauberginesinthisdishtoemphasisethecreaminessoftheir

fleshThepairingwithrosehipisintendedtoinjectsomeintensityofflavourthesyrupmagnificentlycounteractingtheslightbitternessintheaubergineWewouldrecommendexperimentingwiththeamountyouaddWestronglysuspectthataddinganindecentamountofsyruponthisoccasioncanonlybegoodforthesoulThereisstilllikelytobesomeleftoverItwillkeepforayearinasterilisedjarandcanbeservedwithDuckTerrine(seehere)orRabbitConfit(seehere)andisalsoverygoodwiththebrowniesonhere

SERVES4ndash62aubergines1litrerapeseedoilfordeep-fryingcornflourfordustingseasaltsheeprsquossorrelorcommonsorrelleavestoserve

FORTHEROSEHIPSYRUP

400grosehips375gcastersugar

Cuttheauberginesinto8cm-longchipsroughly5mmthickPlacethemin

Cuttheauberginesinto8cm-longchipsroughly5mmthickPlacetheminalargebowlandsaltlightlyensuringanevencoatingCoverandsetasidefor1hour

PuttherosehipsinafoodprocessorandblitzonfullspeeduntiltheyarecompletelybrokendownTransferthemtoasaucepanadd650mlwaterandbringtotheboilRemovefromtheheatandleavetoinfusefor20minutesTransferthemixturetoasievelinedwith2layersofwetmuslinsetoverabowlLeaveforabout30minutesuntilalltheliquidhasdrainedthroughPourtheliquidintoapanaddthesugarandbringtotheboilstirringtodissolvethesugarBoilfor5minutesoruntilreducedtoasyrupyconsistencythensetasidetocoolalittle

Heattherapeseedoilto170degCinalargedeepsaucepanoradeep-fatfryerWhiletheoilisheatinglightlycoattheaubergineincornflourFryinthehotoilinsmallbatchesforabout2minutesuntilcrispandlightlygoldenRemovefromtheoilusingaslottedspoonanddrainonkitchenpaperKeepwarmwhileyoucontinuethroughtheremainingbatchesensuringtheoilstayscloseto170degC

Arrangetheaubergineonservingplatesdresswiththerosehipsyrupandscatteroverthesheeprsquossorrelleavesifusing

daggerAuberginesarenotinfactaMediterraneanvegetabletheyoriginatedinIndiaandareknowntohavebeenpartoftheChinesedietfromasearlyasthefifthcenturyWehavetheArabstothankfortheintroductionofauberginesintoEuropehavingbeenbroughttoSicilyintheeleventhcenturyFoodwriterssuchasElizabethDavidplayedalargepartinintroducingthemtotheUKinthemid-1950s

PearNativeNapeHazelnutCardamomandEwersquosCheeseSalad

AutumnoffersusalotofpearvarietiesintheWalledGardenComiceandAnjoucanbeseenfromthewest-facingwindowsoftheglasshousewhilegrowingontheothersideofthewallintheorchardnearourbelovedquincetreeisalesser-knownvarietyBeurredrsquoAvalonIthasfirmwhitejuicyfleshwithaninitialsweetnessthatendsslightlysourItisspecifictoSomersetanditsnameisrootedinthemythologyofGlastonburyandlegendsofKingArthurFirstfoundintheareaaroundGlastonburyToritwasfinallyrecordedafewyearslaterin1842DuringthethirteenthcenturythenamesofAvalonandGlastonburybegantooverlapandstoriesweretoldofKingArthurdyingontheislandofAvalonThisislandhasalsobeenassociatedinCeltichistorywithapplesAllofthesethreadsofmythhistoryandnamingoffruithavebecomewovenintooneanotherThispearhasanequalflavourpartnerinFosseWayFleececheeseAhard

ewersquoscheesewithaclosesmooth-bodiedtextureandagentlenuttinessitismadebyPhilipRainbowandAnitaRobinsonoftheSomersetCheeseCompanyYoucanmaturethischeesetointensifyitsflavourwrapitinnon-stickbakingpaperandstoreinthesaladdrawerofthefridgeThekeyistokeepitinaplacewherethereislittleaircirculationsoitdoesnrsquotdryoutCheckiteveryfewdaysandwipeawayanymouldthatbuildsupNativeNapeisanair-curedhammadebyNativeBreedswhichproduces

someofthefinestcharcuteriewehavecomeacrossItisrunbyGrahamandRuthWaddingtonwhosourcenativeandrare-breedanimalsfromsmallfarmsinGloucestershiretomaketheiraward-winningproductsWedressthesaladwithcardamomandtruffledhoneyfromaBritish

companycalledTruffleHunter

SERVES4

200gNativeNapecuredham(orothergoodair-curedham)200gagedFosseWayFleececheese(orotheragedewersquoscheese)cutintoshavings

1largepearpreferablyBeurredrsquoAvaloncoredandslicedwaferthinonamandoline

40ghazelnutsroughlycrushed

40ghazelnutsroughlycrushed

FORTHEDRESSING

4tbspvintagecidervinegarsuchasOstlerrsquos2tspDijonmustard1tspgroundcardamom1tbsptruffledhoneyfrac14tspxanthangum(optionalbutrecommended)frac12tspfineseasalt100mlrapeseedoil

Tomakethedressingputalltheingredientsexcepttheoilinablenderandblitzfor30secondsSlowlypourintheoilwhiletheblenderisrunningasyouwouldformayonnaiseOncealltheoilhasbeenincorporatedblitzfor1minuteIfyouaremakingthisinadvancedecantintoasuitablebottleShakewellbeforeusing

PuttingthesaladtogethercouldnrsquotbeeasierDecorativelyarrangethehamsliceson4servingplatesandarrangetheshavedewersquoscheeseamongstthemAddtheslicesofpearlightlydresswiththedressingandscatterthecrushedhazelnutsoverthetop

PreservedDuckLegChorizoButterBeanandConfitTomatoPotStewwithYinYangBeans

InspiredbytheFrenchcassouletthispotstewisamixtureofallourfavouritethingsInsteadofharicotsweusebutterbeansfortheirfluffytextureandmildmineralflavourWealsoaddchorizomakingthissimilartotheSpanishstewsyouwouldfindinAsturiasMadebyVinceCastellanosourchorizoissublimewiththetomatoesandbeansWeserveourpotstewwithconfitducklegsalsoacomponentofthehallowedcassouletWetreatthetomatoesinthisrecipeinasimilarmannerroastingthemslowlyinalightcoatingofrapeseedoilwithplentyofseasoningWeareveryfondofthismethodofpreservinganditmaywellbecomeoneofyourfavouritestooTheyinyangorcaorcalypsobeanisaMexicanheirloomvarietythought

tobeover300yearsoldthatispassedaroundcarefullybygardenerswithawarningtotakecareofitandhelppreventitsdemiseItsdrought-resistantgrowingqualitiesshowwhyitishighlyvaluedconsistentlycroppingyearonyearServethestewwithanauthenticsourdoughloafndashitsdrytexturewillbe

perfectformoppingupthejuicesndashandabottleofPerryrsquosTremlettciderYouwillunderstandwhywerecommendthisciderthemomentaftertheheadyfarmsilagetastepassesandoddlyyouwanttodrinkthewholebottleinoneContraryforcesareinterconnectedandinterdependentinthenaturalworldaccordingtotheConceptofyinandyangandthiscidercertainlyembodiesthat

SERVES4

200gceleriac200gonionsrapeseedoil4garlicclovesfinelychopped4cookingchorizosausages300gbutterbeanssoakedfor24hoursin2changesofwaterthendrained500mlhamhockbroth(seehere)orwhitechickenstock(seehere)300mlcider

1teaspoonpar-cel(seehere)or1tbspchoppedceleryleaf4ConfitDuckLegs(seehere)100gyinyangbeans(ifunavailableusebroadbeansfreshpeasorsugarsnapscookedinboilingwaterfor1minutethendrained)

100gConfitTomatoes(seehere)cidervinegarseasalt

Heattheovento160degCGasMark3Peeltheceleriacandcutitinto2cmchunksChoptheonionstoroughlythesamesizeHeatalittlerapeseedoilinalargecasseroleaddtheceleriaconionsandgarlicandcookgentlyuntilsoftenedAddthechorizosausagesbutterbeanshamhockbrothciderandparcelBringtotheboilthenplacetheducklegsonthesurfaceCoverthecasseroletransfertotheovenandbakefor1frac34hoursAddtheyinyangbeansandthetomatoesandbakefor15minuteslongeroruntilthebeansaretenderSeasonwithsaltandcidervinegartotaste

daggerAcasserolemeanslsquoalargepotrsquotoustodayandformanyofusthatconstitutesacast-ironLeCreusetinheritedfromourparentsseasonedandcaredforWithinthispreciouspotmeatvegetablesandliquidareslowlycookedwiththelidonuntileverythingistenderandcaramelisedSetuponthetableitisservedstraighttotheplateeveryonefightingoverthecrunchyburntedgesElizaActonandMrsBeetonofferedrecipesforcasserolesveryunlikethekindwemaketodayincludingcuriousaffairsofricecrushedtoapasteandsmoothedtotheoutsideofthepan

WoodPigeonBreastswithPersianSpicedBulgarWheatCucumberAniseedandBlackCabbage

AtBarleyWoodthepigeonsarequitehappygrazingthecropscultivatedbythelocalfarmerandMarkthegardenerintheWringtonValeInautumntheyalsoenjoychestnutsandacornsandwheneveryoudisturbapairtheyclatterupwardstakingoffintothewindFromtheglasshouseyouseethemriseintothesouthwesterlytowardsCrookPeakWelovepigeonmeatCookedrareitisirresistiblewitharichredhue

thatistheresultofthisbirdrsquosabilitytotravelvastdistanceswithoutresting

WeserveitwithbulgarwheatseasonedwithourownspiceblendInIranthespicemixwouldbecalledadviehamixtureofspiceschosenfortheiruseinaparticulardishwithinfinitecombinationsTheancientSilkRoutetravelledthoughthenorthofIranandleftitsculinarylegacyCooksintheuplandsandthenorthwesternareasoftenincorporatethedelicatefragranceofdriedrosepetalsintotheiradviehWehavecombinedallspiceturmericcinnamonblackpeppersaffronraisinsandpistachiostomakeablendthatcomplementspigeonperfectlyWeservethisdishwithcrispblackcabbage(cavolonero)flash-friedin

rapeseedoilandcidervinegarwithapinchofcuminItiswithoutdoubtourfavouritewayofservingthisbrassicaFinallywegarnishthedishwithcucumberandanisebuttermilkTraditionallymilkwouldhavebeenleftovernighttoseparatesocreamcouldbechurnedintobutterWhatremainedwasthebuttermilkThickerthanmilkandthinnerthancreamithasasourtangthatisjustwonderfulwiththesweetcucumberandtherichspiceoftherestofthedishIfyoucannotfindbuttermilkthensouredcreamwillworkverywelltooJaneGrigsonwroteinEnglishFood(Macmillan1974)lsquoNocookery

belongsexclusivelytoitscountryoritsregionCooksborrowndashalwayshaveborrowedndashandadaptthroughthecenturiesrsquoWecertainlyhave

SERVES4100mlbuttermilkorGreek-styleyoghurtalittlerapeseedoil8woodpigeonbreastsskinned200gblackcabbage(cavolonero)stalksremovedapinchofgroundcumin1tbspcidervinegarflakyseasalt

FORTHESWEETPICKLEDCUCUMBER

1smallcucumbercutinto1cmdicefineseasaltcidervinegarcastersugar1tspaniseed

1tspaniseed

FORTHEPERSIANSPICEDBULGARWHEAT

300gbulgarwheat2tspsalt1frac12tbspgroundallspice1frac12tbspgroundcinnamon1tspgroundturmeric1tspgroundblackpepper6saffronstamens20graisins50gshelledroastedpistachionuts

Forthepickledcucumberweighthecucumbercubesthenlightlysaltthemandleavetodrainfor1hour

MeasureoutthesameweightofvinegarasthecucumberthendothesamewiththecastersugarPutthevinegarandsugarinasaucepanaddtheaniseedandbringtotheboilstirringtodissolvethesugarRemovefromtheheatandleavetocoolRinseanyresidualsaltfromthecucumberandmixitwiththevinegarandsugarsolutionStoreinthefridge(youwonrsquotneeditallforthisrecipebuttheremainderwillkeepfor4weeksandcanbeusedasasaladgarnishorasanaccompanimenttoaburger)Combine50gofthepickledcucumberwiththebuttermilkstirwellandrefrigeratetillneeded

Putalltheingredientsforthebulgarwheatinasaucepanadd600mlwaterandstiruntilcombinedPlaceoveramediumheatcoverandbringtotheboilReducetheheattoitslowestsettingandcookforabout30minutesoruntilthewheathasabsorbedalltheliquidStirtocheckithasnotcaughtonthebottomofthepanKeepwarmwhileyoucookthepigeonHeattheovento200degCGasMark6andputabakingsheetinittoheatupPlaceaheavy-basedfryingpanoverahighheatuntilitisreallyhotSplashadropofrapeseedoilontoeachpigeonbreastandrubitoveritDustlightlywithflakyseasaltTakethebakingsheetoutoftheovenLay4ofthepigeonbreastsinthefryingpanandcookfornolongerthan30secondspersideuntillightlybrownedPlacethemonthebakingsheetCleanthepanbrieflywithawadofkitchenpaperandrepeatwiththe4remainingbreastsPut

withawadofkitchenpaperandrepeatwiththe4remainingbreastsPutthemintheovenandcookfor2frac12minutesforpinkandperfectlycookedor3minutesformediumTransferthemtoaboardtorestwhileyoucooktheblackcabbage

HeatalittlerapeseedoilinafryingpanaddthecabbagecuminandalittlesaltandfryuntiljustheatedthroughAddthecidervinegarthesteamfromthevinegarwillcookthecabbageinafewsecondsOncetheliquidhasevaporatedtipthecontentsintoawarmservingdish

SlicethepigeonbreastsandserveaccompaniedbythecabbageandbulgarwheatalongwithaspoonfulofthebuttermilkdressingWarnyourfellowdinerstobemindfulofanyleadshotthatmaybehiddeninthebreasts

daggerHistoricallyeatenbythearistocracyandnotcommonersupuntiltheseventeenthcenturyonlythelordofthemanorwaspermittedtobuildadovecoteThesestructureswereoftenimpressiveandmanyresembleourciderbarnwhichisofroundNormandesignThedovemanurewouldhavebeenusedasfertilisernotanapproachthatiscommonlypractisedtoday

ChickenMole

Theintricaciesofmole(pronouncedlsquomo-layrsquo)werenotfullyunderstoodbyusuntilMatthewandPaucirclacamebackfromavisittoPaucirclarsquoslargeboisterousfamilyinMexicoItwasamemorableexperienceinwhichtheyhadeatensomeformofchilliateverysinglemealBreakfastwasnotsparedfromthisjoyfulandsometimespainfulchillimarathonItwasinfactthemostimportantmealofthedaythechoiceofchillibeingparamountForMexicanschilliisasimportantassaltandpepperItisanessentialmeansofseasoningandlackofchilliinamealisfrowneduponunlessyouareaveryyoungchildpracticallyababyItwasblissCapsaicinisthechemicalfoundinchilliesthatmakesthemspicyItis

believedtostimulatetheproductionofendorphinsinthebraincausingsomepeopletofeelasenseofeuphoriawheneatingspicyfoodswhichcanbecomemildlyaddictiveForMatthewandPaucirclaitwascertainlyalotoffuntopushtheendorphinboundariesthroughtheconsumptionofendlesschilliestimeandtimeagainTheirwithdrawalsymptomsstartedbecomingapparentthemomenttheysteppedofftheplaneandwerefacedwithanoverlysweetbreakfastcerealSobackinTheEthicureankitchenaplanwassetinmotiontoattempttocrackthequintessentialMexicanchillichocolatedishwithasmanyBritishingredientsaspossibleThewordlsquomolersquocomesfromthepre-hispanicNahuatlmeaninglsquosaucersquoIt

isunlikelythattheAztecsaddedanychocolatetotheirmolesauceoriginallyndashitwassimplyacombinationofchilliesWithtimeeachregioninMexicodevelopeditsownmoleandtherearenowamultitudeofcolourfulversionsrangingfromredtogreenandevenapinkonefromthetownofTaxcoTheMexicanestateofOaxacaalonehassevendifferentversionsofmolePaucirclarsquosgrandmothertookthelaborioustaskofcookingmolevery

seriouslyHercollectionofspicesstoodinjarsonthekitchenshelvesreadytobecalledintoactionTheaimwastomakeathickshimmerysauceandyouknewitwasreadythemomentthespoonwasabletostandupinitonitsownEpazoteisahighlypopularherbinMexicancookingManypeople

considerittobeaweedsoitisveryeasytogrowevenintheUKYoushouldbeabletobuyseedsonlinebutifyouprefernottogrowititispossibletobuyitasadriedherbtooAlternativelyyoucansubstitutewintersavory

savoryItishighlylikelythatyouwonrsquotbeabletogetthechillieslistedinthis

recipeatyourlocalsupermarketDonotbeputoffbythisTheyarewellworthtrackingdownandasimplesearchonlinewillrevealseveralsuppliersHavingthemdeliveredtoyourdoorwillsaveyouatriptotheshopsMoleistraditionallyservedwithturkeyorchickenThebrinefor

seasoningthechickenhastobemadeinadvanceasitneedstobechilledItwillkeepindefinitelyinthefridgesomakeitatyourleisure

SERVES8

2free-rangechickensfrac12garlicheadrapeseedoil8mulatochillies8guajillochillies4anchochilliesadashofcidervinegar1kgtomatoes300gonionschopped4slicesofstalebreadcutintosmallcubes150gdriedcobnutsorhazelnutsfinelygroundinafoodprocessor150gunsaltedpeanutsfinelygroundinafoodprocessor150graisins1tspgroundallspicefrac12tspgroundclovesfrac12tspgroundcumin1tbspdriedepazote(or2tbspfreshepazote)2litresbrownchickenstock(seehere)1tbspsalt150gdarkchocolatewith75ndash80percentcocoasolids50gmuscovadosugar

FORTHE8PERCENTBRINE

80gsalt80gdarkmuscovadosugar

80gdarkmuscovadosugar1tbspdriedepazote(or2tbspfreshepazote)1bayleaf

TOFINISH

16ndash24corntortillas4tbspsesameseedsfriedinadryfryingpanuntillightlycoloured4tbspcoarselychoppedcoriander

Putallthebrineingredientsinapanwith1litreofwaterandbringtotheboilLeavetocooltoroomtemperaturethenchill

RemovetheskinfromthechickensandsetasideCutthebreastsandlegsfromthechickensthendividethelegsintodrumsticksandthighs(keepthecarcassesforstockseehere)Placethethighsdrumsticksandbreastsinthebrineandleavefor2hours

MeanwhilemakethesauceHeattheovento180degCGasMark4Wrapthegarlicinfoilwithasplashofrapeseedoilandbakefor20minutesLeavetocoolandthensqueezeouttheroastedpulpBreakopenthedriedchilliesandremovetheseedsRehydratethechilliesbyplacingtheminabowlofhotwaterwithadashofvinegarandleavingtocoolDrainandchopfinelytryingnottostainyourfingersasthecapsaicinwillremain

Scoreeachtomatowithacrossonthebaseputtheminapanofsimmeringwaterfor2minutesthendrainandpeelofftheloosenedskinsChopthetomatoesroughlykeepingallthejuiceandseedsseparatelyPourtheseedsandjuicethroughafinesieveintoabowlreservingthejuice

Dividethechickenskinbetween2hotfryingpansandcookuntilitisbrownandthefathasbeenreleasedDiscardtheskinbutkeepthefatinthepansAddtheonionsbreadnutsandraisinstoonepanandthetomatoesandtheirjuicechilliesspicesandepazotetotheotherOncetheonionsarebeginningtocolourtransferthemixturetoalargesaucepanandaddthechickenstockLetthetomatoescontinuetocookuntiltheyarebrokendownaddingasplashofwaterifthemixturestartstolookdryTransferthetomatoestothesaucepanalongwiththesaltAddthechocolateroastgarlicandsugarstirthensimmerwiththelidofffor45minutesoruntil

andsugarstirthensimmerwiththelidofffor45minutesoruntilthickenedstirringregularly

Meanwhilepoachthebrinedchickeninalargepanofbarelysimmeringwaterfor35minutesThewatershouldhardlybemovingresultinginsucculentpaleandmoistchickenWarmthetortillasPuttheminabasketandcoverwithadamphotteatoweltoretaintheheatandkeepthempliableStripthechickenmeatofftheboneandserveonthetortillastoppedwithlashingsofmolethenscatteroverthetoastedsesameandcoriander

VenisonCiderandQuinceStewwithHerbedButterDumplings

AsthecropsareharvestedthestubbledfieldsspelltheendoffieldcoverfortheroedeerSoontheleaveswillbegintocolouranddropmakingitmoredifficultforthemtohidefromthestalkerTheruthasfinishedandbucksnolongerfixatedonmatingarealittletheworseforwearandlackinginenergyFamilygroupsbegintoformastheterritorialactivityoflatesummersubsidesTheyhavespentthepreviousmonthsfatteningthemselvesforthecomingwinterandasthefarmersmovethecattlefromthepasturesaroundBarleyWooditseemsagoodtimetobringhomearoebuckForstewingweusetheneckorshoulderndashdonrsquotcombinethemasthecookingtimewillvaryTheneckcontainsafairamountofconnectivetissuewhichwillneed

varyTheneckcontainsafairamountofconnectivetissuewhichwillneedslowcookingtotenderiseitThisisarecipewemakebeforeadayrsquospickingintheorchardndashonefora

weekendwhenyoursquoretidyingthegardenbeforewinterorjustrelaxingCookingthevenisoninciderisidealastheaciditydoesmarvellousthingsAstewneedsanighttocooldownslowlysothatthemeatreabsorbsitsjuicesbecomingmoresucculentNostewcanpossiblybeservedwithoutdumplingsWersquoveoftencaught

JackeatingthemallontheirownwhenwersquovemadetoomanyTheyareverywelcomeduringautumnwhenweneedatouchmorestodgeElizaActonHannahGlasseandConstanceSprygivenumerousrecipesforSuffolkandNorfolkdumplingsandthemainstyleseemstobeforalsquoharddumplingrsquothatcontainsneithersuetnorbutterWemakeourfluffydumplingswithflourbutterandeggsandtheyresemblethoseeatenincentralEuropeChoppedfreshherbsaddfragrance

SERVES6ndash8

200ggoosefat12kgvenisonneckorshouldercutinto3ndash4cmchunks900gredonions450gcarrots225gceleriac2quinces600mlbeefstock(seehere)300mlcider1bayleaf8sprigsofthyme1tbspjuniperberries1tbspdriedpineappleweed(optional)togarnishcidervinegarseasaltandblackpepper

FORTHEHERBEDBUTTERDUMPLINGS

390gself-raisingflour3eggs105gsaltedbutterdiced

105gsaltedbutterdiced1frac12tspsalt2tbspchoppedmixedherbssuchassagethymeparsleyandmintafewtbspdoublecreamblackpepper

Heatsomeofthegoosefatinalargeheavy-basedfryingpanandfrythepiecesofvenisoninsmallbatchesuntilcolouredallovertransferringthemtoalargecasseroleastheyaredoneCuttheonionscarrotsandceleriacintolargechunksndashtheyshouldbetoobigtoeatinonemouthfulastheyaregoingtospendalongtimeinthestewColourtheminthepaninwhichthemeatwasbrownedaddingmoregoosefatasnecessary(thegenerousamountoffatisneededforthisrecipeasvenisonisaleanmeat)Addthevegetablestothecasserole

WashthesoftdowncoatingoffthequincesandthencoreandchopthemtheiraromawillbepineapplerichAddtothecasserolewithalltheremainingingredientsexceptthepineappleweedvinegarandseasoningThecasseroleneedstogointheovenbutdonrsquotpreheatitasitbenefitsfromareallyslowriseintemperatureasHaroldMcGeeadvisesinhisseminalbookOnFoodandCooking(seeboxopposite)Starttheovenat95degC(orthelowestpossiblesettinginagasoven)puttingthecasseroleinwiththelidofftothesideslightlytoallowsomeevaporationThiswillslowlyraisetheinternaltemperatureto50degCLeavefor2hoursthenincreasetheoventemperatureto120degCGasMarkfrac12whichshouldincreasethetemperatureto80degCCookfor1ndash2hourswiththelidstillaskewthentestthemeatfortendernesswithaknifeKeepcheckingathalf-hourintervalsuntilyouaresatisfieditistenderenoughTastethesauceanddecideifyouwouldliketoreduceittoconcentratetheflavourTodothisremovethemeatandvegetablesfromthecasseroleandsetasidePlacethesauceoverahighheatandletitsimmervigorouslyforabout5minutesuntilslightlyreducedinvolumeTasteanddecideifthisstrengthsuitsyouRepeatuntiltheflavourisasyoulikeitthenseasonwithsaltpepperandadashofcidervinegarReturnthemeatandvegetablestothecasseroleandleavetocoolovernightthenchillitinthefridgethenextmorningItwillbereadyafteragentlereheatwhilethedumplingsarebeingmade

Tomakethedumplingssifttheflourintoafoodprocessorandaddtheeggs

TomakethedumplingssifttheflourintoafoodprocessorandaddtheeggsbuttersaltherbsandblackpepperProcessuntilthemixtureresemblesbreadcrumbsthenwiththemachinestillrunningslowlypourinenoughcreamtoformadoughLettheprocessorturnforacoupleofminutestostretchthedoughItshouldbefluffywithaslightlytackyexteriorandbreakaparteasilyIfnotaddadashmorecreamandmixagainTakethedoughoutandshapeinto25cmballsKeepcoveredbeforecookingthem

Poachthedumplingsinalargepanoffast-boilingwaterinbatchesof8ItisessentialthatthewaterisboilingrapidlysotheyfluffupquicklyTheywillfloattothesurfaceastheybegintocookCookforafurther2minutesfromthispointthenremovewithaslottedspoonServethedumplingsdroppedintothattoothsometenderstewwithalightdustingofthechamomilerelativepineappleweedroughlychoppedifyouhaveany

HaroldMcGeemakessomeinterestingpointsonstewingmeatinhisbookOnFoodandCooking(HodderampStoughton2004seehere)ThemoreamuscleisusedthemorecollagenitwillcontainandthetougheritwillbeButwhenyouheatcollagento70ndash80degCitisconvertedintogelatinewhichissoftwobblyeasilydissolvedandkeepsmeatbeautifullytenderHoweveratthistemperaturealthoughthecollagenisconvertedintogelatineyoualsolosemoisturewhichmakesthemeatdrierMcGeersquosmethodthereforeadvocateskeepingthemeatbelow50degCforalongtimewhichweakensthecollagenthenquicklyraisingthetemperaturewhenthemeatisalmostcookedtoconvertthecollagenintogelatineThiswillretainmoreofthemoisturethanifthemeathadstayedataconstant80degCthroughouttheentirecookingtimeItsoundscomplicatedbutinrealityitisjustthescientificexplanationoftheslow-cookingtechniquewehaveusedforhundredsofyears

QUINCE

ApplesandquincegrowsidebysideinourorchardweonlyhaveonequincetreeanditscropisprizedbyusThesebrightyellowfruitresembleaplumppearandtheyhaveadownyfurthatgrowsontheirskinTheirperfumeisfreshandfloweryandistheresultoflactonesandviolet-likeiononescontainedintheskin(seeHaroldMcGeeOnFoodandCookingpage357)Intheprocessofstewingthetanninsarebrokenupandasaresultthemellowflavourandapple-liketextureofquincecanbeenjoyed

FishSoupwithSpicedHeritageTomatoesFennelSeedandEnglishTruffleOilToast

ThissoupisaquesttocombinetwoofourmajorobsessionscurryspicesandtrufflesAtfirstthismightseemanunlikelymarriageReasondictatesthatthesestrongflavourshavethepotentialtooverpoweranysoupHoweverthefinessearisingfromtheuseofheirloomtomatoesmakesthewholedishaharmoniousspice-infusedaffairHeirloomvarietieshavedesirablecharacteristicsthathavebeenpasseddownforgenerationsandtheyarefarsuperiorintastetoblandcommercialvarietiesToaddfreshtrufflestothissoupmightbeconsiderednotonlyextravagant

butdownrightcavalierInsteadweuseadashoftruffleoilforboththesoupandthetoastTruffleHunterbasedintheCotswoldsmakesanoilfromEnglishrapeseedoilandEnglishblacksummertrufflesthatisgoodenoughtomatchitsItaliancounterpartsTheresultisawarmingterracotta-colouredvelvetysoupthatwillinspireanyonetoheadouttotheBritishcountrysideinsearchofthatcovetedEnglishtruffleTrainingofOchoourresidentdoghascommencedItrsquosbesttoavoidoilyfishsuchasmackerelsalmonortunahereInstead

sticktowhitefishsuchaslingsole(lemonDoverwitchordab)pollockandcuttlefishSquidalsoworkswellandfromasustainabilitypointofviewisregardedasoneofbestfishtoeatndashparticularlyifyoucanfindsquidfromsmallseasonalBritishfisheries

SERVES4

500gtomatoes(thebestyoucanfind)rapeseedoil450gonionsroughlychopped250mlfishstock(seehere)4garliccloveschopped2heapedtbspDijonmustard400gwhitefishfilletsskinonandcleanedsquidcutinto25cmpieces1tspgroundturmeric

FORTHESPICEBLEND

2tspfennelseeds

2tspfennelseeds1tspaniseed1tspcorianderseeds2blackcardamompods15gsalt1tspgroundcinnamon1tspgroundcardamomfrac12tbspgroundturmeric

TOFINISH

250gsourdoughbreadcutintoslices25cmthickrapeseedoiltruffleoil1tspnigella(blackonion)seeds1tspfennelseedscrushedcoarseseasalt

Tomakethespiceblendheattheseedsandcardamominadryfryingpanfor2ndash3minutestoreleasetheiroilsCrushthemfinelyinapestleandmortarwiththesaltthenstirinthegroundspices

Scoreacrossonthebaseofeachtomatoputtheminapanofboilingwaterfor2minutesthendrainandpeelofftheskinsQuarterthetomatoesandscoopouttheseedsandjuiceintoasievesetoverabowlPressontheseedswiththebackofaspoontoensureyougetasmuchjuiceaspossiblethendiscardthem

HeatalittlerapeseedoilinalargepanaddtheonionsandcookuntilsoftenedbutnotcolouredStirinthespiceblendandcookforafewminutesthenaddthetomatoesandtheirjuicefishstockgarlicmustardand250mlwaterBringtoasimmerandcookcoveredfor40minutesPureacuteethesoupinablenderorfoodprocessorandthenpourintoacleanpanthroughafinesievetocatchanylargespicepiecesReheatgently

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6CutthesourdoughslicesintosquaresandtosstheminabowlwithadrizzleofrapeseedoilandanevensmallerdrizzleofthepungenttruffleoilAddsomecoarsesaltshakethroughonce

drizzleofthepungenttruffleoilAddsomecoarsesaltshakethroughoncemorethenspreadoutonabakingsheetandbakefor7ndash8minutesuntilgoldenalloverKeepthetoastsomewherewarmwhilethefishisfried

Placealargenon-stickfryingpanoveramediumheatAddasplashofrapeseedoiltothehotpanthenfrythefishforabout3minutesuntilithascolouredslightlythendustwiththeturmericandfryfornolongerthanaminutemore

LadlethesoupintobowlsdividethefriedfishandsquidbetweenthemanddrizzleasmidgenmoretruffleoilontopFinishwithafewnigellaseedsandcrushedfennelseeds

TRUFFLES

TrufflesaretheendearinglyshymembersofthefungusfamilyUnliketheirbrashovergroundrelativeswhoexplodeinamyriadofshapesandsizesunfazedbythethoughtofbeingspottedbyakeenmycophiletrufflesrsquointroverteddemeanourfindsthemdeepundergroundhavingformedanamicablerelationshipwiththerootsofasuitabletreeFranceandItalyarepopularareasfortrufflehuntersbuttheycancertainlybefoundinBritainin

limestoneorchalkareasupanddownthecountryTheRoyalBotanicalRecordsatKewdocumenttruffleshavingbeenfoundinourlocalareaThetraditionalwaytofindthemuch-prizedfungiisthroughtheuseofpigsalthoughdogsarenowmuch

morecommonlyusedEnglishtrufflescanbefoundfromJulyallthroughthewinter

Slow-braisedGoatrsquosLegwithCiderShallotsLentilsandGlazedCarrots

DuringautumnmuchofthegoatthatweusecomesfromStawleyFarminWellingtonOntheir20acresoflandCarolineAtkinsonmakesafreshcheeseusingrawmilkfromthegoatsfarmedbyherhusbandWillKiddingndashthegoatequivalentoflambingndashtakesplacearoundAprilThebillieswiththeirobviouslackofmilkingpotentialaredestinedforourpotAtthebeginningofautumntheyarearound5monthsoldandweigh10ndash12kgThelegsarejustrightforgentlebraisingTheprinciplesofstewingdiscussedonherearejustasrelevanttothisrecipeNotonlyisliquidaneffectivemeansoftransmittingheatbutitsflavourenhancesthefoodthatiscookedinitAttherestaurantMatthewandIainpressurecookthelegratherthan

braisingitintheovenBothcookingmethodswillgiveimmaculatelytendermeatthatfallsawayfromthebonePressurecookinghasitsownbenefitshowever(seehere)andwefinditthemostreliablewaytoachieveperfectionhereVeryfewingredientsarecookedwiththegoatbuttheshallotsandcarrots

playacrucialroleTheshallotsoffernaturalsugarsaswellassharpnessandasavouryflavourThecarrotsaretheirsidekickreleasingsugarsgraduallyduringtheslowcookingtimeWeservethegoatwithPuylentilswhichholdtheirtextureandhavea

uniquepepperyflavourWeusethesamevegetablesforboththelentilsandthebraiseWehonestlythinkgoathasnevertastedasgoodasitdoesinthisrecipeItisamealofclassiccleanflavoursfoodforthesoul

SERVES4ndash6rapeseedoil100gshallots(orspringonions)finelysliced200gcarrotsfinelysliced100gwhitemushroomsfinelysliced300mlmediumcidersuchasPerryrsquosMorganSweet500mlbrownchickenstock(seehere)2tbspcuminseeds

1tbspfineseasalt1goatrsquoslegshankremovedsoonlythethighremains

FORTHELENTILS

rapeseedoil150gonionsveryfinelydiced100gcarrotscutintosmallcubes50gbrownmushroomscutintosmallcubes350gPuylentils200mlbrownchickenstock(seehere)cidervinegarfineseasalt

FORTHEGLAZEDCARROTS

8ndash12small-mediumcarrotspeeledbutleftwhole125gunsaltedbuttercutinto25cmcubes1frac12tspfineseasalt1tbspcuminseeds1tbspcorianderseeds

TobraisethegoatpourathinfilmofrapeseedoilintoalargepressurecookerandplaceonahighheatAddtheshallotscarrotsandmushroomsandcookfor10ndash15minutesuntiltheybegintocolourDeglazethepanbyaddingtheciderandscrapinganystickybitsawayfromthebasewithawoodenspoonAddthechickenstockcuminseedssaltandthegoatrsquoslegPlacethelidonthepressurecookerandkeepoverahighheatWhenthecookerreachesfullpressureturntheheatdowntolowandmaintainatfullpressurefor2hoursRemovefromtheheatandallowtocoolnaturallywithoutventingthepressurecooker

Forthelentilsheatathinfilmofrapeseedoilinasaucepanaddthevegetablesandsweatfor5ndash10minutesuntilsoftenedAddthelentilsandstirthroughPourinthechickenstockadd550mlwaterandbringtotheboilCoverthepanreducetheheatandcookfor25ndash30minutesuntilthelentilsaretenderandhaveabsorbedalltheliquidSeasontotastewithfineseasaltandasmalldashofcidervinegarItisimportantnottosaltthelentilsbefore

andasmalldashofcidervinegarItisimportantnottosaltthelentilsbeforetheyarecookedortheywillbetoughandchewy

FortheglazedcarrotsputthecarrotsintoasaucepanjustlargeenoughtoholdtheminasinglelayerAddthebuttersaltandspicesandplaceoveramediumheatuntilthebutterhasmeltedTurntheheatdownalittlecoverandcookfor20ndash25minutesshakingthepanoccasionallyforevencookingWhenthecarrotsaresofttakeoffthelidandturntheheatuphightocaramelisethemlightlyRemovefromthepanandsetasidesomewherewarm

Afterthepressurecookerhascooledforatleast40minutesandthesafetylockhasreleasedremovethelidTakeoutthelegandleavetorestonaboardinawarmplaceStraintheliquidfromthepressurecookerthrough4layersofwetmuslinintoacleanpanThismayseemexcessiveanditisoptionalbutthestockwillformasauceandstraininghelpsremoveimpuritiesthatwouldcloudthesaucedetractingfromthefinaldish

SkimoffanyexcessfatfromtheliquidthenbringtotheboilandsimmeruntilreducedbyaboutathirdSeasonwithsalttotaste

ToservecarvethegoatrsquoslegandputitonservingplateswiththelentilsandcarrotsPouroveraliberalamountofthereducedbraisingliquidandfinishwithalittlesprinklingofseasalt

IfyoubraisethelegintheovenratherthanapressurecookercolourthevegetablesinalittlerapeseedoilinasaucepanoverafairlyhighheatthentransfertoaroastingtrayAddthegoatrsquoslegandenoughciderandchickenstocktocomeaboutathirdofthewayupitndashyoumayneedmoreliquidthanthequantitystatedaboveSeasonwiththeseasaltandcoverwith2layersoffoilPlaceinanovenpreheatedto120degCGasMarkfrac12androastfor4ndash5hoursuntilthemeatisimpeccablytenderCheckitevery30ndash45minutestoensurethereisstillenoughliquidtoppingupwithasplashmorechickenstockciderorwaterifnecessaryWhenyoumakethesaucetheliquidmayrequirereducingmorethanathirdtogetthecorrectflavoursokeep

reducingmorethanathirdtogetthecorrectflavoursokeeptastingitandstopwhenyouarehappywithit

PRESSURECOOKING

OurpressureCookersatTheEthicureanareconstantlyutilisedforawealthoftasksrangingfromvastquantitiesofstocktotheslowbraisingoftoughercutsofmeatsrightthroughtothecookingofourbeansandpulsesThepressurecookerisanunsungherointhekitchenWhenitcomestostockspressureCookingachievesadepthof

flavourthatwouldotherwisebeunobtainableThiscomesdowntotwoverysimpleconceptsfirstwhenmakingstocksbytheconventionalmethodthelidisuncoveredThisresultsinwhatarecalledlsquovolatilearomarsquomoleculesrisingoutofthestockAlthoughthismaysmelldelightfulwhatyouaresmellingislostflavourPressurecookershavelidsthatpreventthesearomasfromescapingandwhenusedcorrectlyandallowedtocoolthesearomascondenseinsidethepanandendupbackinthestockLessflavourislostincomparisonwithtraditionalmethodsAndwhilethelidstopsthearomasfromescapingpressurebuildsinsidethepanAtsealevelwaterboilsat100degCgiveortakeafewvariations

dependingonweatherInorderforwatertoboilenergy(intheformofheat)hastolsquopushrsquothewaterupharderthantheatmosphericpressurelsquopushesrsquothewaterdownWhentheforcepushingupisgreaterthantheforcepushingdownwaterboilsAtthetopofMountEveresttheatmosphericpressureislessthanitisatsealevelSowhenclimbersboilwaterathighaltitudesthewaterrequireslessenergy(heat)tolsquopushrsquothewaterupInfacttheboilingpointofwateratthetopofMountEverestisdramaticallyreducedandissomewherecloserto70degCInrelationtopressurecookingtheoppositeisalsotrueIfyouincreasetheatmosphericpressurethereismorepressurepushingdownonthewaterandwhatyouareleftwithisaboilingpointthatisabove100degCThisisbecausetoboilwaterunderpressureittakesmoreenergy(heat)topushthewaterupagainsttheatmosphericpressurepushingthewaterdownYouraverage

atmosphericpressurepushingthewaterdownYouraveragepressurecookerisdesignedtotakethetemperatureofwaterto120degCIainandMatthewarefascinatedbytheideaofsuper-heatedwaterbecauseflavoursarediffusedintothestockatagreaterrateathighertemperaturesndashandwestrivetocreategreaterdepthofflavourwitheverypressurecookingattemptTherearefurtheradvantagestousingapressurecookerat

homePressurecookersrequirelesswaterforcookingthefooddoesnothavetobeimmersedinliquidasthecookercontainssteamaswellasliquidThismeansthatlessenergyisrequiredtoheattheliquidtothedesiredtemperaturendashsomethingthatisverymuchinlinewithourstrongbeliefinreducingenergyconsumptionVitaminsarealsosaidtobepreservedmoreefficientlywhencookedunderpressureduetothesmallerquantitiesofliquidneededcombinedwiththefastercookingtimenutrientshavelessopportunitytoleachoutintothewaterWhenapressurecookerisusedcorrectlyliquidwillnotcome

totheboilWithstocksthatarehighlyvaluedforclaritythisisahugepositiveTakeyourtraditionalstockmethodforasimplestockbonesareroastedputinwaterwithvegetablesandherbsandcookedfor4hoursUsuallyastockwillbubbleawayrelativelyunattendedformostofthistimewiththecookoccasionallyskimmingoffimpuritiesIntheprocessofastockbubblingthebubblescreatemovementthroughthewaterwhichinturnbreaksdownvegetablematterintotinypiecesNotonlythatbutmotioncreatedbywaterboilingemulsifiesanyfatsintothestockAllofthatvegetablematterandfatresultinacloudystockInapressurecookerwatersitsmotionlessat120degCWhatyouareleftwithisaclearstockwhichcaninturnbeusedtoproducecrystal-clearsaucesorprovidethehiddenpunchofflavourthatmakesyourdishahit

PheasantKievwithWinterTarragonandStrawberryMyrtle

TheepitomeofautumncomfortfoodthiswasonthemenuduringTheEthicureanrsquosfirstmonthWeopenedinOctoberaboutamonthintothepheasantseasonandthiswasourplayonchickenKievndashasuperiorversioninouropinionduetothecomplexnatureofpheasantThehistoryoftheKievbeginsinRussiaandendsmostlyinthesupermarketchillercabinetAsaconceptitisflawlesscrispbreadcrumbedmeatoozingwithgarlicherbsandbutterForthefillingweaddtwoveryunderusedingredientsThefirstis

strawberrymyrtleanevergreenshrubthathasbrightredberriesaboutthesizeofcranberriesinautumnTheyarereminiscentofspicedstrawberryandtakefirst-timetasterscompletelybysurpriseJekkaMcVicartellsusthattheywereQueenVictoriarsquosfavouritefruitandshewouldoftenhavethemsentupfromCornwallTheirfruityspiceisacompletehitwithpheasantbutshouldyounotbeabletofindthemjuniperwilldoagoodjobtooThesecondspecialingredientiswintertarragon(Tageteslucida)aperennialwithdistinctlyaniseed-flavouredleavesItcanbepickedwhenFrenchtarragonisnolongeravailableandhalftheamountisneededForPaucirclaithasaparticularrelevanceastheflowerofwintertarragonformspartofthedecorationsduringthediacuteadelosmuertosortheDayoftheDeadIthasrootsinSouthAmericanculturethatgorightbacktotheAztecsandisstillusedbymanyMexicanIndiansasaningredientinincense

SERVES4

4largepheasantbreastsskinned100gsoftenedsaltedbutter2tbspfinelychoppedwintertarragon3tbspstrawberrymyrtle(orjuniper)2largeeggsbeaten250gstalebreadmadeintofinebreadcrumbs30gplainflourfineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperValorPotatoMash(seehere)toserve

FORTHEBRINE

40gfineseasalt2tspfennelseeds

2tspfennelseeds1tspfreshlygroundblackpepper

BeginbymakingthebrinendashthiscanbedonewellinadvanceandkeptinthefridgeuntilneededPutthesaltandspicesinasaucepanwith500mlwaterandbringtotheboilImmediatelyremovefromtheheatandleavetocoolthentransfertoaplasticboxandchillthoroughly

Putthepheasantbreastsinthebrineandleavefor2hoursDrainoffthebrinepourcoldwateroverthepheasantandleavefor2minutesDrainagainandpatdryonkitchenpaperKeepinthefridgeuntilneeded

MeanwhilemashtogetherthebutterandtarragonusingthebackofaforkDivideitinto4portionsandflatteneachoneoutintoasquareshapethatwillfitinsideapheasantbreastPlacethebutteronsomegreaseproofpaperandfreezefor1hour

ButterflythepheasantbreastsTodothislayeachoneonaboardandusingaverysharpknifecutintothebreastparalleltothechoppingboarduntilyoureach1cmfromtheotheredgeEssentiallyyouareenablingthebreasttoopenupcompletelywhilethe2sidesstayconnectedbyalsquohingersquoOnceeachbreasthasbeenopenedupplaceaportionofthebutterinthecentrealongwithaquarterofthestrawberrymyrtleBrusharoundtheedgesofbothsidesofthebreastwithalittleofthebeateneggthencloseitencasingthebutterandherbs

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6Spreadoutthebreadcrumbsinaroastingtrayandbakefor5minutesStirwellthenreturnthemtotheovenandcontinuetobakestirringat2-minuteintervalsuntilthecrumbsarecompletelydryandcrispSetasidetocool

Placetheflourbreadcrumbsandremainingbeateneggin3separatebowlsCoateachbreastinflourthendipitintheeggandcoatwiththebreadcrumbsFinallydipeachbreastbackintotheeggandthencoatwithafinallayerofbreadcrumbsThislsquodouble-diprsquomethodensuresmorecrunchontheexteriorandalsohelpspreventthebutterescaping

PuttheKievsonaroastingtrayplaceintheovenandbakefor14minutesServewiththemashandseasonalgreens

HANGINGPHEASANTS

WhenbuyingpheasantstrytoensurethatyoutakehomeyoungbirdsyoucandothisbycheckingthebeakandclawsOldermeansthickerandharderAbraceofpheasantsisacock(male)andahen(female)Oldstalwartsofgamewouldadvisethatcocksmustbehunglongerthanhensduetotheirmoreactive

lifestyleandlargersizeInpracticeitalldependsonthetemperatureatwhichtheyarehungandontheageofthebirdWewouldadvisebuyingabracethathasalreadybeenhungbyyourbutcherThebasicsciencebehindhangingisthatenzymesinthemeatattackothercellmoleculesandthisinturnreduces

theselargemoleculesintotastiersmallermoretenderpieces(seeMcGeeOnFoodandCookingpage144)

Wintertarragon

Strawberrymyrtle

daggerThestorygoesthatJasonandtheArgonautsbroughtthepheasantbacktoGreece(alongwiththeGoldenFleece)fromtheplacenowthoughttobeGeorgiandashtheLatinnameforpheasantiscochicusaderivativeofthatareaItwasthenbroughttoBritainbytheRomansandappearedinfossilisedformatCorbridgearoundthesiteofHadrianrsquoswallEleventh-CenturyremainsoffeaststhatincludepheasantbonesaboundItwasnotuntiltheeighteenthandnineteenthcenturiesthatnewvarietiesofpheasantwereintroducedfromtheFarEastandChinaThemalesreallyaresplendidtheircoloursareautumnalandseemtomirrorthetreesrsquoseasonaltransformationtogoldsredsandbrownsThesebirdsarenotparticularlycleverandDorothyHartleyhadacunningtechniqueforpoachingthemfromhergardeninsummerlsquoPheasantisfairlycommoninEnglandinSummerwhenthecockinvadesthecottagegardenstosneakthepeasYoucatchhimquietlywithapaperbagandraisinsSmearthepaperconeinsidewithtreacleorgumputafewraisinsatthebottomandpropthe

bagupagainstthepeasWhenhestickshisheadinhecannotseewheretogosohestandstilltillyoufetchhimrsquo(FoodinEnglandpage202)

RareRoastSirloinofBeefwithBordelaiseSauceBlackCabbageandTruffleCauliflower

OneofourfavouritefeaturesattheWalledGardenisthemainseatingareaoftherestaurantwhichwecalltheglasshouseWithitsnear-perfect180-degreeviewoftheSomersethillsitgivesusarealsenseofthechangingcountrysidethroughouttheseasonsFromherewehaveoftenobservedthedifferentweatherpatternsapproachingandnotedtheeffecttheyhaveonthelandscapearoundusMostimportantlyhowevertheviewofthevastvelvetyhillsservesasadailyreminderofourfantasticbeef-farmingheritageintheUKBritainrsquosfertilepasturesproducesomeofthebestbeefintheworldand

BritainrsquosfertilepasturesproducesomeofthebestbeefintheworldandhaveledtothedevelopmentofsomesuperbcattlebreedsAttherestaurantweuseHerefordCrossorCharolaisbeefthathasbeenagedfor28ndash35daysTheadvantagesofageingaretwofoldasthemeathangsmoistureevaporatesfromitwhichmeansagreaterintensityofflavourisachievedatthesametimethetoughconnectivetissuegraduallybreaksdownresultinginmoretendermeatWewouldrecommendseekingoutbeefthathasbeenhungforatleast28daysThiskindofmeatisamagnificenttestamenttoBritishbeeffarmingYet

itsrecenthistoryhasbeentroubledItsreputationsufferedgreatlyasaconsequenceoftheBSEcrisisinthelatetwentiethcenturyanditwassometimebeforeitscredibilitywasrestoredIronicallyitwasoftensmallfamily-runfarmsthatsufferedfinanciallyasaresultdespitethefactthatsuchfarmersrsquoclosedherdsoftraditionalgrass-fedbeefbreedsweretheonesthatweremostlikelytobefreeofthediseaseOncethisfactbecamewidelyknownitledtothepromotionofsmall-scalebeeffarmingwhichproducedbeefofhighqualityOursearchforabutcherwhosharedourcommitmenttosustainablefood

productionledustoThornburyfarmersrsquomarketandScottPowellfromPowellsofOlvestonndashabutcherwhostoodbeforeabannerproudlyproclaimingethicallysourcedmeatsScotthadclearlygonetogreatlengthstofindhissuppliersforbeeflambporkchickenandduckallofwhomhavehighstandardsofanimalhusbandryandexceptionallywellcared-forlivestockTocookthesirloinaccuratelyithelpstohaveadigitalprobendashamodest

investmentthatwillhaveagreatimpactonyourcookingFamiliariseyourselfwiththeguidetoroastingbeefonherebeforeyoustartthisrecipeThebeefwilltakeabout4hoursfromleavingthefridgetoservingDonrsquotworryifitisreadybeforethesidedishesndashbetterthatitiswellrestedthanrushedtothetableItcanbeheldinaverylowovenalongsidewarmingplatesafterbastingforaslongasrequiredThisrelaxedapproachmarksoutSundayasanidealtimetocatchupandmullovertheweekwithfamilyandfriends

SERVES8

2kgbeefsirloinpreferablyagedfor28ndash35days3tbspmustardpowder

plainflourfordusting3tbsprapeseedoil400gblackcabbage(cavolonero)kaleorscarletborecolestalksremovedcutinto2cmstrips

1tbspcidervinegaradoublequantityofBordelaiseSauce(seehere)ValorPotatoMash(seehere)toserveflakyseasalt

FORTHETRUFFLECAULIFLOWER

1cauliflower1tspsmokedsalt4tbspdoublecreamtruffleoilpreferablyEnglish(seehere)totaste

Takethesirloinoutofthefridge2hoursbeforecookingtobringittoroomtemperatureRemoveanystringandcoveritwithateatowel

Dividethecauliflowerinto25cmfloretsandslicethestemPlaceinasteamerbasketandsteamoveralowheatfor35minutesuntilverysoftTransferthecauliflowertoablenderorfoodprocessorwiththesmokedsaltandblitzacoupleoftimesThenwiththemachinerunningpourinaslowdrizzleofdoublecreamuntilitbeginstocombineOnceitstartstomovearoundtheblenderaddalightsplashoftruffleoilndashsomewhereintheregionof1ndash2teaspoonsTastethemixtureanddecideifyouwantmoresaltortruffleoilScrapedownthesidestocatchanyremainingunblendedpiecesandblendoncemoreIfyouwantaverysmoothfinishpassthemixturethroughafinesieveSetaside

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6Getalargeheavy-basedfryingpanveryhotItrsquosimportantthatthebeefbrownsquicklysomakesurethepanispracticallyhummingDustthesirloinonallsideswiththemustardpowderthenwithflourrubbingitintomaketheoutsidedry(donrsquotaddanysaltatthisstage)LiftthejointupandgiveitafewpercussiveslapstoknockoffanyexcessflourCarefullyadd2tablespoonsoftherapeseedoiltothehotpanandusingacarvingforkgentlylowerthebeefintoitItwillcolour

quicklyoverthisheatsoturnitregularlyuntilbrownedonallsidesTransfertoaroastingtrayandplaceintheovenDecidetowhatdegreeyouwouldlikethemeatcooked(seetheboxonhererememberingthatthetemperaturesshownaretheonesthemeatshouldreachafterresting)Roastfor25minutesthentakethejointoutforitsfirsttemperaturetestInsertadigitalprobeintothesideyouwouldcarvefromatwhicheverendisthickestasclosetothecentreofthecrosssectionaspossibleandcheckthetemperatureProbeatacouplemorepointstheaimbeingtofindthelowesttemperaturereadinginthejointThetemperatureislikelytomeasureinthemidtwentiesinwhichcaseitcangobackintheovenfor10minutesbeforetestingagainAsitnearsyourchosentemperaturereturnittotheovenprobingat5-minuteintervalsuntilthecorrecttemperatureisreachedWecookourbeeftoaninnercoretemperatureof37degCandwhenitisoutoftheovenwewatchthecarry-overeffectonthethermometerasitclimbsto50degCPerfectlyrareRestingfor30minutesisessentialtofinishingthebeefproperlyStraightafteritcomesoutoftheoventhefibreswillcontractandjuiceswillleavethemeatThenastheystopcontractingitwillreabsorbthejuicesThiswindowprovidesagreatopportunitytoseasonApplyuptoatablespoonofflakyseasaltliberallytothejointOverthenext10ndash30minutesregularlybastethemeatbyspooningthejuicesbackoveritThesaltwilldissolvefromthesurfaceandthepanjuiceswillberenderedtoosaltyforuseelsewherebutasthebeefabsorbssomeofthissaltitwillbeseasonedtoperfectionAfterthesirloinhasbeenbastedandresteditcanbereturnedtoanovensetat50degCwhereitwilllsquoholdrsquoperfectlytillyouarereadytocarveitndashatechniqueusedinmanyprofessionalkitchens

Heattheremainingrapeseedoilinapanaddthecabbageandcookoveramediumheatfor30ndash45secondsAddthecidervinegarletitsteamoffintheheatofthepanthenseasonwithsaltandtransfertoawarmservingdish

Reheatthecauliflowerpureacuteecarvethebeefandservewiththebordelaisesaucemashandcabbage

AGEINGBEEF

Whenabeeforbuffalocarcassisagedthemeataswholejointsisheldbetween1and3degCEnzymesinmusclebreakproteins

intosavouryaminoacidsandthisiswhereflavourdevelopsfrom(seeHaroldMcGeeOnFoodandCooking)Thisprocesswonrsquotbenoticeableuntilafter20daysandcontinuesforafurther15daysFurtheractionoffungalmicrobesontheexteriorcomplementsthisprocessTheydonrsquotcausespoilageinthetruesenseandin

anycasethemeatistrimmedofitscrustasamatterofcoursebythebutcherattheendofthematuringAsupermarketwouldmostlikelycutandpackagemeatafteronlyfourdaysofstoringinoxygen-lessconditionsThesupermarketbenefitsfromhaving

nolossinweightthatadry-ageingprocesswouldeffectSearchoutanindependentproducerofBritishgrass-fedbeefatafarmersrsquomarkettalktohimorherandaskaboutthisprocess

UponknowingalittlemoreabouttheirartisanskillsandprideintheirproductyouaremuchmorelikelytocomeawaywithameltinglytenderandflavoursomecutofmeatAsBritainistheonlycountryintheworldtobananimalderivativesinfeedthebeefisnowthesafesttheworldoversomethingtosupportandtrulygetbehindOnceyouhaveboughtthebestpossiblepiece

ofmeatthekitchenprocessissimpletosaytheleast

ROASTINGBEEF

RoastingbeeftoperfectionrequiresanaccuratethermometerTherearemanyotherwaysofjudgingwhenthebeefisatthecorrectstageoflsquodonenessrsquobutathermometerisundoubtedlythemosteffectivewaytoachievethesameresulteverytimeOvensoperateatdifferenttemperatureswiththeirownuniquecoldspotsandhotspotsHavingacorrectlycalibratedthermometertomeasuretheinternaltemperatureofthemeatnegatesalltheguessworkForourrareroastsirloinwhichweservemostSundaysinthe

restaurantthecutisroastedtoaninternaltemperaturematching

restaurantthecutisroastedtoaninternaltemperaturematchingthatofourbodiesThemeatisthentakenoutoftheovenandallowedtorestforaminimumof30minutesbeforeitisservedMeatissubjecttoaphenomenonknownaslsquocarry-overcookingrsquoEssentiallythismeansthatevenafterthemeathasbeenremovedfromtheoventheinternaltemperaturewillcontinuetoriseagoodfewdegreesThethickerthepieceofmeatthemoreheatitwillretainandthehigheritwillclimbSirloinandotherlargecutsusuallyclimbaround10ndash13degCThechartbelowshowsthetemperaturethemeatshouldreachafterresting

Whencookingsteaksremovethemfromtheheatwhentheyareroughly5degCbelowthetemperatureyouwanttoreachforribsofbeef5ndash10degCWewouldneverrecommendtakingbeefabove60degCasitbecomesalmostasmuchofatasktoeatascoldMidgetGemsAndalotlessenjoyabletoo

AlmondPearCardamomandChocolateCake

WehaveusedmanyfruitsinthedevelopmentofthisdessertandalthoughitworkswellallyearroundwecansafelysaythatitisbestwithpearsespeciallyifyoucangetthemwhentheyareperfectlyripePearstendtobelessacidicthanapplesandwefindtheireleganthoneyedfragrancehardtoresistItwasinspiredbytheclassiccombinationofpearandalmondexemplified

inthetraditionalfrangipanendashasumptuouspastemadefromground

inthetraditionalfrangipanendashasumptuouspastemadefromgroundalmondsItevolvedintoacosmopolitanWestCountryaffairwhenwewereaskedtodesigncakestosuitthemenuoftheThaliCafeacuteanindependentIndianchainbasedinBristolTheadditionoffloral-scentedcardamomseemedinevitableThecakewastheperfectmatchforallthosewonderfulspicesusedinIndiancookingIthasnowbecomeoneofthemostpopularitemsatTheEthicureanwhethersoldfromthecakecounterorservedasawarmdessertAboveallthiscakehaswonadevotedfollowingbecausewekeepitglutenfreeGluten-freecakesaresometimesmalignedforbeingdryandcrumblybutthisofferingtrouncesthatpreconceptionWeencourageyoutotryitwarmwithadecentamountofcreamThechocolatewillmeltwithinandthefrangipanewillbetransformedintoadevastatinglymoistensemble

315gsaltedbutteratroomtemperature315gcastersugarplusalittleextrafordusting5eggslightlybeaten315ggroundalmonds50ggluten-freeplainflour(orordinaryplainflour)1tbspgroundcardamom1ripepear70gdarkchocolate(weuseOriginalBeansCruVirungachocolatebutanygood70percentcocoasolidchocolatewillwork)

Heattheovento160degCGasMark3Linethebaseandsidesofa23cmspringformcaketinwithnon-stickbakingpaper

Usingafreestandingelectricmixerfittedwiththepaddleattachmentbeatthebutterandsugartogetherfor10ndash15minutesuntilpaleandincreasedinvolumeGraduallypourinthebeateneggswhilethemixercontinuestoturnAddallthedryingredientsandmixonslowuntiljustcombinedRemovethebowlfromthemachineandfoldthemixtureafewtimeswithaspatulatoensureitiswellmixedTurnitintothetinlevelthetopslightlythenplaceinthecentreoftheovenandbakefor20minutesInthemeantimethinlyslicethepearremovingthecoreandbreakthechocolateintopiecesRemovethecakecarefullyfromtheovenItwillbeliquidwithonlyatouchofcolourPressthechocolatepiecesverticallyintothemixacrosstheentirecakeLaythepearslicesinapatternofyourchoosingon

acrosstheentirecakeLaythepearslicesinapatternofyourchoosingontopDustthemwithalittlecastersugartoaidcaramelisationandthengentlyreturnthecaketotheovenCookfor40minuteslongerturningthecakearoundhalfwaythroughtoensureitbakesevenlyIfyouhaveadigitalprobeagoodwaytoensurethatthecakeisdonetoperfectionistocheckthetemperatureinthecentreitshouldbe94degCOtherwiseinsertaskewerandcheckthatitcomesoutcleanLeavethecaketocoolforatleast20minutesbeforeserving

daggerThenamefrangipane(astheenlighteningLarousseGastronomiquetellsus)originatesfromasixteenthcenturyperfumerandnoblemantheMarquisMuzioFrangipaniInhisvastrepertoireofperfumeshehadaparticularlymemorableonebasedonbitteralmondswhichwasspecificallyusedforscentingglovesThescentwassopleasantthatitledprominentParisianchefstodesignanalmond-basedpasteintheMarquisrsquosname

daggerItseemsthatourloveforpearswassharedbyRomansandGreeksalikePearswereeatenindiversewaysandevenmadeintoanalcoholicdrinkDuringmedievaltimespearswouldonlybeeatenafterdinnerandtheyweregenerallyroastedoreatenwithsugarfennelseedsoraniseedTheytendedtobeeateninenormousquantitiesattimesofglutswhichinevitablyledtoupsetstomachsandtheincorrectassumptionthattheywereariskyfruittoeatrawThesayinglsquorawpearsapoisonbakedamedicinebersquoencapsulatesthissentimentperfectlyThepracticeofcookingpearswithsugarandspicescontinuedwelluntiltheseventeenthcentury

SeaBuckthornSorbetwithAppleandVanillaPureacuteeToffeeAppleandCaramelLemonBalm

SeabuckthornhasbeenusedforcenturiesinEuropeandAsiabothasfoodandformedicinalpurposesAsitsnamesuggestsitisahardythornybushwhichmightbewhyithasbeenforgottenaboutinrecenttimesharvestingitisnottheeasiestoftasksThisdidnotdetertheAncientGreekswhousedtofeedittotheirhorsestopromoteweightgainandglossycoatsndashhenceitsLatinnameHippophaemeaninglsquoshinyhorsersquoItrsquosdefinitelyworthlookingoutfortheberriesonseasideforagingtripsThedensebushesareeasytospotastheberriesareacheerfulbrightyellow-orangeInlinewithgoodforagingetiquettetrytoresisttheurgetocutthewholespikybranchinordertogaineasieraccesstothefruitItwilldamagetheplantandminimisethechanceofafutureharvestInsteadthinkoftheintrepidGreeksontheirshinyhorsesandarmyourselfwithathickpairofglovesandtoughclothingsoyoucanharvestinpeaceTheberriesoftenstayonthehedgewellintothewinterBewareoftheir

highacidityitcertainlymakesforaninterestinggameofwhocanpullthefunniestfaceasyoueatthemWetemperthistartnessbymakingtheberriesintoasyrupysorbetTheappleandvanillapureacuteesoftenstheirastringencyevenfurtherandprovidesasweetvelvetybasetodipyourminitoffeeapplesintoWecouldnotresistincludingtoffeeapplesTheyaretheepitomeof

autumnconjuringupthoughtsofwoodlandfloorscarpetedingoldenleavesandambersparksaroundabonfireTheseminiatureversionsareamorerefinedtreatthanthetraditionalchildhoodones

SERVES6

FORTHESEABUCKTHORNSORBET

700ndash800gseabuckthornberries250gfructose(fruitsugar)50gglucosepowder

FORTHEAPPLEANDVANILLAPUREacuteE

frac14vanillapod250gdessertapplespeeledcoredandcutintocubes

250gdessertapplespeeledcoredandcutintocubes5tbspcastersugar

FORTHETOFFEEAPPLES

175mlapplejuice100gcastersugar2BlenheimOrangeapples(orBramleyapples)4ndash6lemonbalmleaves(ormintleaves)finelyslicedtodecorateafewshardsofsaltcaramel(seehere)togarnish(optional)

Firstmakethesorbetpasstheseabuckthornberriesthroughajuiceextractorandmeasurethejuiceyouwillneed400mlPutthefructoseandglucoseinasaucepanadd330mlwaterandbringtoagentlesimmerLeavetocoolandthenstirintheseabuckthornjuicePassthroughafinesieveandleaveinthefridgeforatleast2hoursThisallowstheproteinsinthemixturetohydratefullywhichimprovesthewhippingqualitiesofthesorbetandmakesitsmootherFreezeinanice-creammachineaccordingtothemanufacturerrsquosinstructionsWhenthemixtureisalmostfrozenblitzwithastickblenderfor15ndash30secondsthenreturntothemachineandcontinuetochurnDecantintoanairtightcontainerandfreezeforatleast2hoursbeforeserving

FortheappleandvanillapureacuteeslitopenthevanillapodandscrapeouttheseedsPuttheseedsandpodinasaucepanwiththeapplessugarand50mlwaterandplaceoveramediumheatBringtoasimmerandcookfor30minutesstirringoftenTransfertoablenderremovingthevanillapodandblitztoapureacuteePassthroughafinesieveandsetasideAllowtocoolandthenchill

TomakethetoffeeapplespourtheapplejuiceintoasaucepanandbringtoagentlesimmerRemovefromtheheatandkeepwarmUsethesugartomakeacaramelfollowingtheinstructionsforSaltCaramelonherebutomittingthesaltLetitreachadeepevengoldcolourtheninsteadoftippingitontoasiliconematremovefromtheheatandslowlyaddtheapplejuiceBecarefulasthecaramelwillbubblerapidlywhenthejuiceispouredinOnceallthejuicehasbeenaddedthecaramelwillprobablysolidifyPlaceoveralowheatandcookstirringuntilithasmeltedintothe

applejuiceSimmeruntilithasreducedtoaloosesyrupyconsistencyRemovefromtheheatandleavetocool

Usingamelonballerscoopout18ndash24ballsofapplekeepingtheskinonPuttheballsinasaucepanjustlargeenoughtoholdtheminasinglelayerthenaddenoughofthecaramelapplesyruptoreachhalfwayupthemPlaceonahighheatandcookturningtheappleballsregularlyuntilthesyruphasthickenedenoughtocoatthemRemovefromtheheatandsetasideinawarmplaceuntilneeded

ToservespoonsomeapplepureacuteeontoeachplatethenaddthetoffeeappleballsdressedwithalittleextrasyrupDecoratewiththelemonbalmandsaltcaramelshards(ifusing)andplaceascoopofsorbetoneachplate

BeetrootAppleandCobnutCrumblewithRoastedWhiteChocolateSpoom

GiventhatwehavesomanyapplevarietiesintheWalledGardenwecouldnotresistcreatingaversionoftheubiquitouscrumbleItisafterallthequintessentialBritishpuddingandonethatcanbeenhancedgreatlybythechoiceofingredientsusedItsbeautyliesnotonlyinitssimplicitybutalsoinitsversatilitySurprisinglycrumblesdidnrsquotbecomepopularuntiltheSecondWorldWarwhentheywereawayofekingoutsugarflourandbutterrationstomakeapuddingUsingbeetrootmightseemslightlyriskybutwehaveoptedforthesweetwhite-fleshedAlbinaIcebeetrootwhichgivesasubtlecolourpaletteIfyoucangetRibstonPippinapplestheyoffertheperfectcombinationofpearmaltandpeachflavoursandalsohaveasubtlechestnut-likeflavourthatcomplementsthecobnutsWeopttoturntheappleandbeetrootoutontoacrispseparatelybakedcrumbleandhaveborrowedthetarteTatinideaofmakingacarameltotopthedishSoinessencethisisanupside-downcrumbleTheadditionofanuttyelementisoptionalbutyouwillfindthatitimprovesthetextureofthetoppingbymakingitcrunchierndashthehallmarkofagoodcrumbleinourviewItisofcoursepossibletosubstitutehazelnutsforthecobnutsbutwewouldurgeyoutoheadoutdoorsandfindyournearestcobnuttreeThisissuchagreatnativenutwithanamazinghistory(seehere)

SERVES6ndash8

350gAlbinaIcebeetroot(orsubstitutegoldenbeetrootChioggiaorredvarietiesforaverydifferentcolourfinish)

500gRibstonPippinapples(orCoxrsquosOrangePippins)RoastedWhiteChocolateSpoom(seehere)toserve

FORTHECRUMBLE

100gcobnuts260gplainflour165gdemerarasugar165gunsaltedbutteratroomtemperaturecutintocubesfrac12tspgroundcinnamon

FORTHEVANILLAANDCIDERBRANDYCARAMEL

125gcastersugar100mlagedciderbrandy1vanillapod50gunsaltedbutteratroomtemperaturecutintosmallcubes

FirstmakethecrumbleHeattheovento180degCGasMark4PutthenutsinafoodprocessorandblitzforasecondortwountiltheyarecoarselychoppedSiftintheflouraddthesugarandturnontheprocessoragainSlowlyaddpiecesofbutterthroughthefoodtubeuntilthemixtureresemblesbreadcrumbs(Youcandothisallbyhandifyoupreferrubbingthebutterintothedryingredientswithyourfingertips)Scatterthemixtureintoa24cmnon-stickovenprooffryingpanwithoutpressingitdownBakefor25minutesoruntilgoldenbrownandcrispCookingthecrumbleseparatelylikethismeansitretainsitscrunchagainstthemoistappleRemovefromtheovenandcoolslightlythenturnitoutontoaservingplatebyplacingtheplateoverthepanandcarefullyflippingthembothoverHopefullyitwillcomeoutcleanandunbrokenSetasideforlaterCleanoutthepannowreadyformakingthecarameltop

WashthebeetrootwelltrimmingawaythestemsthenslicethemfinelyfromtoptobottomThiswillbeeasierwithamandolinethoughentirelypossiblewithacalmsteadyhandandasharpknifeCoretheapplesandslicefinelyintodiscs

Putthesugarandciderbrandyintothenon-stickfryingpanSlitthevanillapoddownitslengthscrapetheseedsintothepanandaddthepodhalvesaswellSetthepanoveramediumheatandbringtotheboilstirringoccasionallytodissolvethesugarTheliquidmayigniteasthealcoholcooksoffContinuetocookwithoutstirringbutkeepingacloseeyeonituntilitturnsalightcaramelcoloursimilartothatofdemerarasugarAssoonasthisoccursremovethepanfromtheheatLaytheslicesofbeetrootinthecarameltocoverthebaseofthepanthenaddalternatelayersofappleandbeetrootDotthebutteroverthetopandplaceintheovenCheckitafter35minutesitisreadywhenthemoisturehasbeencookedoutandthereisaclearlayerofdeepcaramelcolouraroundtheedgesThiscouldtakeuptoanhourdependingonthemoisturecontentoftheapplesandbeetrootsokeepcheckingat10-minuteintervalsWhenitisreadyremovefromtheoven

checkingat10-minuteintervalsWhenitisreadyremovefromtheovenandleavefor15ndash20minutesuntilthepanhandleiscoolenoughtoholdSlidethecrumbleoffitsplateontotheapplePuttheplatefacedownontothisthenflopthewholethingovertakingcaretoholdtheplatesteadytooTheapplemixtureshouldcomefreefromthepanwithagentleshakegoslowlyandgravityshouldsufficeServewiththeroastedwhitechocolatespoom

daggerTheappleswehavechosenforthisdishareRibstonPippinThemid-seasonapplevarietygaineditsnamefromRibstonHallinYorkshirewhereitisbelievedtohavegrowninthe18thcenturyThiswasanotherpopularvarietyintheVictorianeraandwasbelievedtobeoneoftheparentsofCoxrsquosOrangePippin

daggerBeetrootwasafavouritesweetenerandcolouringagentoftheVictoriansitwasoftenusedinsaladsandsoupsVictorianfoodparticularlyinnoblehouseswasallaboutcreatingthemoststunningtheatricaleffectanditseemsthatthedramaticcolourprovidedbythisrootvegetablewasafavouriteatthedinnertable

Simplesyrupsforsorbetsandspooms

Simplesyrupsforsorbetsandspooms

SugarsyrupsareanessentialpartofmakingsorbetsspoomsandicecreamsForallsorbetandspoomrecipesweuseinthisbookweusea50percentsugarsyrupalsoknownas5050syrupDependingonitsuseweeitherusesucrose(commontablesugar)or

fructose(fruitsugar)(formoreonfructoseseehere)Forfruitypreparationswewillgenerallyalwaysusethe5050fructosesyrupIfyouareeverunsurerefertotherecipethatyouaremaking

5050COMMONSYRUP

500gcastersugar500gwater

5050FRUCTOSESYRUP

500gfructosesugar500gwater

Thismethodappliestobothsyrups

CombinethesugarandwaterinamediumsaucepanPlaceonamedium-highheatandbringtoasimmerStirtoensureallthesugarhasdissolvedbeforepouringintoabowlplacedinanicebathAllowtochilltofridgetemperaturebeforedecantingintoatupperwarecontainerandstoringinthefridgeuntilneeded

YoumayalsocoolthesyrupbypouringitintoaroastingtraywithalargesurfaceareaLiquidswithlargesurfaceareascooldownmuchmorequickly

Spoom

ThenamelsquospoomrsquocomesfromtheItalianwordspumemeaningfoamSpoomresemblesasmoothairysorbetItisaforgottendessertnowadaysbutitusedtobeverypopularinEnglandItwasmadewithalightersyrupthan

anormalsorbetandonewouldmixinItalianmeringueforgoodmeasureItwascommonlysoldinatallglasssothatyoucouldseethelayersandtextureswithinSpoomissuchaversatiledessertthatitisastonishingthatweeverletitgooffourculinaryradarInordertorevivethespoomwehavecomeupwithanautumnalandasummeryoptionReadonandspoomaway

RoastedWhiteChocolateSpoom

SERVES4ndash6

350gwhitechocolate180gglucosesyrup80gItalianMeringue(seehere)

Preheattheovento110degCGasMarkfrac14BreakupthechocolateintoanovenproofdishandplaceintheovenLeavefor10minutesbeforestirringwithaspatulaReturntotheovenstirringevery5minutesuntilthechocolatehastakenonalightndashmediumbrowncolour(likeCaramac)Thisusuallytakes40ndash60minutesDuringthisprocessthechocolatewillgothroughseveralstageshardmeltedchalkyandgrainybeforebecomingcompletelysmoothDonrsquotpanicThisisnormalTakecarewhenremovingitfromtheovenasitrsquosincrediblyhotDecantintoaplasticcontainerandleavetocoolOncecoldandsolidifiedchoproughlyintosmallpiecesandplaceinamixingbowl

Inasaucepancombinetheglucosesyrupwith850gofcoldwaterPlaceoveramediumheatandbringtoaverygentlesimmerPourthesimmeringliquidoverthechoppedchocolateStirforacoupleofminutesbeforeblendingwithastickblender(orpouringintoablender)FoldintheItalianmeringue

Spoonthechocolatemixtureintoaplasticcontainerandrefrigerateforatleast2hours(TherefrigerationprocessallowstheproteinspresentinthespoomtohydratefullyThiswillinturnimproveitswhippingqualitiesallowingmoreairtobeincorporatedandresultinasmootherproduct)Removefromthefridgeandstrainthroughafine-meshsieve

Twentyminutesbeforeyouarereadytochurnswitchonyourice-cream

Twentyminutesbeforeyouarereadytochurnswitchonyourice-creammachineAddthespoomtotheice-creammachineWhenthemachinebeginstolabourremovethebowlandblitzthemixturewithastickblender(orspoonintoablender)for15ndash30secondsReturnthemixturetotheice-creammachineandchurnforafurther2ndash3minutesDecantintoanairtightliddedplasticcontainerandfreezeforatleast2hoursbeforeserving

CherrySpoom

SERVES4ndash6

500gpittedcherriesstonesreserved(seeNotebelow)150g5050FructoseSyrup(seehere)35gItalianMeringue(seehere)

Placethecherriesinablenderandblitzonfullspeedfor12minutesPassthroughachinoisorfine-meshsieveintoamixingbowltoremoveanyexcesssolids

AddthesyruptothecherriesmixingwellWhiskintheItalianmeringueuntilfullyincorporated

Spoonthecherrymixtureintoaplasticcontainerandrefrigerateforaminimumof2hours(TherefrigerationprocessallowstheproteinspresentinthespoomtohydratefullyThiswillinturnimproveitswhippingqualitiesallowingmoreairtobeincorporatedandresultinasmootherproduct)Removefromthefridgeandstrainthroughafine-meshsieve

Twentyminutesbeforeyouarereadytochurnswitchonyourice-creammachine(itneedstobeverycoldbeforeusesoastoformicecrystalsasquicklyaspossiblemakingforasmootherfinish)Addthespoomtotheice-creammachineWhenthemachinebeginstolabourremovethebowlandblitzthemixturewithastickblender(orspoonintoablender)forabout15ndash30secondsReturnthemixturetotheice-creammachineandchurnforafurther2ndash3minutesDecantintoanairtightliddedplasticcontainerandfreezeforatleast2hoursbeforeserving

NOTEasanoptionalstepforthisrecipewrapthereservedcherrystonesinateatowelandbashthemwitharollingpintocrushthemPlacethecrushedstonesinasaucepanalongwiththefructosesyrupBringthesyruptotheboilandthentakeofftheheatAllowtocooltoroomtemperatureandthenplacein

thefridgeuntilthoroughlycoldStrainthroughachinoisorfine-meshsievetoextractthestonesbeforecontinuingwiththesamemethodasaboveThiswilladdanextracomplexitytothespooncontributinganever-so-slightlybitteralmondtasteDelightful

ItalianMeringue

ItalianmeringuesareathingofbeautyTheirthickunctuoustextureisenoughtomakeagrownmanregresstoachildlikestatescrapingeverylasttinymorseloutofthebowlandhungrilylickingthespoonAmeringueisatypeoffoammadefromwhiskingeggwhitesandthen

addingsugarItistheeggwhitesthatcreatethefoamasthewhiteiswhiskedtheproteinswhichareinatangledformintheirnaturalstatebegintounravelintostrandsThesestrandstheninteractwithoneanotherandasairisincorporatedthroughwhiskingtheywraparoundtheairbubblesandtrapitandthusafoamiscreatedThemeringuemostofusmakeathomeisanuncookedmeringueThesearenotconsideredsafetoeatintheirrawstatesimplybecausetemperaturehasnotbeenappliedtokillanybacteriapresentUsuallythesemeringuesareputintotheoventocrispupandformpavlovasorgivetherisetosouffleacutesIfleftuncookedarawmeringuewilleventuallydeflateastheraworlsquosoftrsquoproteinsintheeggarenolongerabletoretaintheairbubblesItalianmeringuesdifferfromthecommonmeringuebecauseastheeggs

arewhiskedtothecorrectconsistencyboilingsugarispouredinThisboilingsugarcookstheeggwhiterenderingitsafetoeatbutinterestingly

asthehotsugarcookstheeggwhitesthelsquosoftrsquoproteinscoagulatetrappingairalmostinstantlyCoagulatedproteinsaresetandareabletoholdontotrappedairmuchmoreeffectivelythanrawproteinsThesearetwogoodreasonsweuseItalianmeringueitispasteurisedandfarmorestablethananyothermeringueItalianmeringuecanbeusedtomakecrispmeringuesandawholehostofotherdessertsWeuseitforcreatingourspooms(seehere)Italianmeringuesarethemorecomplicatedtomakebutdonrsquotletthisput

youoffWithalittlepracticeyouwillhoneamethodthatworksforyouandyourequipmentandyouwillbeabletomakeaperfectmeringueeverytime

320gcastersugar150geggwhites

Placethesugarand100gofcoldwaterinasmallsaucepanPlaceonamediumheatandbringtotheboilAsthesyrupbeginstoboilincreasetheheattomedium-highIfyouhaveajamthermometerthenplaceitinthesyrupIfyouhaveaninstareadthermometerthenperiodicallycheckthetemperaturendashyouneedittoreach110degC(seebelow)beforeyoutacklethenextstepHaveasmallbowlofwaterandasiliconepastrybrushatthereadyAsthesugarbeginstoboilareaswillmostlikelycrystallisearoundtheedgeofthepanBrushtheseawaywiththewetpastrybrushtopreventtheentiresyrupfromcrystallisingDonotstirthesyrup

AddtheeggwhitestoameticulouslycleanmixingbowlMakesurethesugarhasreached110degCbeforeyoustarttowhisktheeggwhites(seeboxopposite)WhisktheeggwhitesuntiltheyformstiffpeaksWhenthesugarreaches121degCandthewhitesareatthestiffpeakstageslowlypourinthesugarsyrupinathinsteadystreamdowntheedgeofthemixingbowlwhilewhiskingatfullspeedOnceallthesyrupisaddedcontinuetowhiskuntilthemeringuereturnstoroomtemperatureThisshouldtakeabout15ndash20minutesTimespentonthisismostdefinitelyworthitsobepatient(AgreatwayofentertainingyourselfthroughtasksthatrequirecontinuousattentionistotakenoteofthecharacteristicsofthecontentsofthepanormixingbowlObservinghowtheyflowtheirshinetextureorsmellHowtheyslowlychangevicositycolourandaromaNoticinglittlethingslike

thatmaysoundalittleoddbutwhenyoulookcloselyyoursquollseehowfascinatingitcanbe)

Ifyouwanttomakeindividualmeringuespreheattheovento60degC(orthelowestpossiblegassetting)LineabakingsheetwithgreaseproofpaperPlacegeneroustablespoonsofthemeringuemixtureabout5cmapartonthebakingsheetCookintheovenfor3ndash5hoursuntiltheoutsideofthemeringueformsafairlythicksoftskinAtthispointswitchofftheovenandleavetocoolforacoupleofhours

Ifmakingthemeringueforthespoomrecipesonherethenwewouldrecommendeithermakingahalfbatchorensuringthatyoutrybothrecipesthenfreezethem

DIFFICULTYOFTIMING

ThisisthedifficultstageofmakingItalianmeringuegettingthetimingrightYouwanttheeggstobeatthestiffpeakstageasthesugarhits121degCIfyouhaveanelectrichandwhiskthenstartingtowhisktheeggwhitesat105degCwillprobablybeaboutrightIfyouhaveaKitchenaiditwillwhiskthewhitesfarquickerthanahandwhisksostartitafewdegreeslater(try108ndash110degC)ThereareafewthingsyoucandotocontrolthemixturehavinganicebathreadyisausefultipIfthesugarreaches121degCbeforetheeggwhitesareatstiffpeakstagethendropthebaseofthesugarpanintotheicebathThiswillstopthesugarfromcontinuingtocookandthesugarwillremainliquidforyoutopourintotheeggwhitesatthecorrectstageWithallthingsinthekitchennothingbeatsabitofrepetitionandpracticeFromrepeatingthesamerecipesyoulearnthesubtlenuancesofeachingredientandhowitrespondstowhatyoudotoitItwillquicklybecomesecondnature

THECHEESEBOARD

ThereisnodoubtthatBritishartisancheesemakingisundergoingarevivalAspartofadesiretoreconnectwiththephysicalprocessofmakingfoodwewanttotraceourcheesesfromsourcetotableTherichhistoryofBritishcheesealongwiththeintricatespecificsofourregionalrecipesissomethingtoberediscoveredanddevelopedThetechniquesemployedbyartisancheesemakerstodayareforthelargepartthesameasthoseusedsincetimeimmemorialHavingdistinctivestylesofcheesesthroughoutthecountryisbrillianttastelessuniformityisnotAcheesemakershouldhaveadirectlinkwithhisorhermilksupplyInthe

pasttheherdandthedairywouldhavebeenonthesamefarmndashandinsomecasestheystillareThequalityoftheproductisdueinparttothecommunicationbetweenthecheesemakerandthepersonwholooksaftertheherdRegionalorterritorialcheesesarespecifictothelandscapeinwhichtheyaremadeandthegeographicalpositionwilldeterminethecharacterofthepastureonwhichtheanimalsfeedWehavebeenluckyenoughtohostCheeseSchoolatTheEthicurean

OrganisedbyJessTrethowanandFionaBeckettittakesplaceinatentwithwonkytableshurricanelanternsandenoughexpertstosinkabattleshipTherearetalksbycheesemakersbrewersbakersanddrinksexpertsandwefounditaninvaluablewayoflearninghowandwhycertaincheesesworkwithparticularflavoursanddrinksItalsohelpedusunderstandhowthecheesemakingprocessisaffectedbytheseasonsandthedietoftheherdAcelebrationofthedistinctivecharacterofBritishcheesemakingitisachancetoshareanecdotesandknowledgeThewordartisansometimescomesunderfireforitsassociationwith

premiumorhigher-endbutthecostofartisanfoodsisindicativeofthetimeeffortresearchandpassionthatgointocreatingthebestpossibleproductEnsuringthatnotonepersoninthechainoffinancialexchangeslosesoutistheresponsibilityofanybusinessownerAbusinessthatcangrowmakeorbrewagoodproductandturnaprofitwithoutexploitinganotherpersoncontributestoourlocaleconomyinthebestpossiblewayThemoreweinteractwiththepeoplewhoproduceourfoodandwiththelandfromwhichitcomesthemorewecanenjoytheculturalhistoryofourlocalarea

AtTheEthicureanweenjoychoosingtherightpairingforcheeseintheformofpreservesandotheraccompanimentsOurstaplesareHawthornJelly(seehere)quincecheese(knowntotheSpanishasmembrillo)celerysaltpicklesandDarkPlumChutney(seehere)WhenthefigtreedecidestofruitwewilloftenservethefigsalongsidefreshcurdcheesesDuringtheautumnourfavouriteappletoeatwithcheeseisAshmeadrsquosKernelacidicandsweetlikeapeardropOppositearethreeofourfavouritepairingsThekeyistomakesurethe

cheeseisnotoverpoweredbyitsaccompanimentandviceversaWefindpickingoutsingleflavoursinthefoodanddrinkthataresimilarcanleadtoaharmoniousmatchFinallybearinmindthatsaltyfoodscanbenefitfrombeingpairedwithanaccompanimentthatissweetinsomeway

daggerInFoodinEnglandDorothyHartleyemotionallyrecallsthereasonsforthedeclineofBritishcheesebeforetherevivalofthelatetwentiethcenturyItappearsthatmotorisedtransportheraldedtheendoflocalisedcheesemakingasmilkwasthendeliveredtolarge-scalefactoriesFollowingfoodrationinginboththeFirstandSecondWorldWarsthegovernmentonlyallowedhardcheesetobemadeinordertoconserveresourcesndashcheeserationingcontinueduntil1954ThishadaprofoundeffectonBritishcheeseandaccountsfortheubiquityofflavourlessvacuum-packedblocksofvaryingcolourIn1989theMinistryofAgriculturewereonthevergeofbanningtheuseofrawmilkincheesemakingluckilytheywerenotsuccessfulItislittlewonderthatithastakenuntilnowforourartisancheesemakerstobuildmomentumandtheyarecertainlygainingpace

MARMALADEVODKAWITHDORSETBLUEVINNYANDCELERYSALT

ChaseDistillerymakesamarmaladevodkaThisorange-huedtippleismadebymarinatingtheirownsingle-estatevodkadistilledinHerefordwithSevilleorangemarmaladeThevodkaissweetwiththeunmistakablearomaoforangescontrastingwellwiththesaltinessofthecheeseDorsetBlueVinnycopeswiththehighalcoholinthisdrinkinmuchthesamewayasthetraditionalportandStiltoncombinationCeleryandbluecheesearedestinedtobetogetheralittlemoresaltneverdidanyharm

OLDDEMDIKEWITHMEMBRILLOANDPOTHOLERGOLDENALE

ThisisaSomersetversionofManchegoandmembrilloandacompromiseitcertainlyisnotAthinsliverofquincecheesewithsomeofHomewoodCheesesrsquoOldDemdikeisanepiphanyAdelightfuldrinkmatchisanalecalledPotHolerbrewedbyCheddarAlesItisalivelybrewagoldenalethatlikeOldDemdikehasacitrusfruitflavourCheddarAleshavehoppedthisbeerwithablendofEnglishwholehopsThisisaverypleasantmatchindeed

KEENrsquoSCHEDDARWITHSMOKEDCARDAMOMPICKLEDCARROTANDJJJCIDER(JANETrsquoSJUNGLEJUICE)

Wepickledicedrawcarrotincidervinegarcorianderandblackcardamom(seehere)TheaciditycutsrightthroughthisstrongcheeseChooseamedium-drycidersuchasJanetrsquosJungleJuicemadebyWestCroftCidersoitwillbalancetheinherentsalty-sweetnatureofthisunpasteurisedCheddarTheapplearomainboththedrinkandthecidervinegarinthepicklemakeforaclassicpairing

WewouldlovetolistallofthegreatcheesemakersoftheUKHerearejustafewofourfavourites

KEENrsquoSCHEDDAR

UnpasteurisedcowrsquosmilkwithtraditionalanimalrennetMadebytheKeenfamilyonMoorhayesFarmnearWincantonusingatraditionalpintstarterwithyoghurt-likeculturesThecheeseisboundinclothandmaturedforaminimumof10monthssometimesupto18monthsSmoothwithafirmtextureithasalong-lastingflavourthatisacombinationofnutsacidityandearth

OGLESHIELD

UnpasteurisedJerseycowrsquosmilkwithtraditionalanimalrennetMadeinNorthCadburySomersetbyJamieMontgomeryandWayneMitchellAfterbeingrindwashedthecheeseformsastickyorange-colouredrindThetasteissimilartoaracletteanditcooksverywell

DORSETBLUEVINNY

UnpasteurisedcowrsquosmilkwithvegetarianrennetMadeonWoodbridgeFarminDorsetbyMikeDaviesHeuseslsquoleftoverrsquomilkafterthecreamhasbeenskimmedoffforbutter-makingThecheesesarematuredfor3ndash5monthsandhaveasubtleflavourwithacrumblycreamytexture

GORWYDDCAERPHILLY

UnpasteurisedcowrsquosmilkwithtraditionalanimalrennetMadeonGorwyddFarmatLlanddewiBrefiCeredigionbyToddMauganandKimTrethowanThecurdisworkedbyhandandanaturalmouldrindencouragedtodevelopThecheeseiskepttruetotheoriginsoftraditionalCaerphillyasimplefarmhousecheeseeatenyoungorafteralittlematurationIthasaspringycitriclacticcentreoozymushroomycreamundertherindandamustyearthinessintherinditself

SINGLEGLOUCESTER

UnpasteurisedcowrsquosmilkwithvegetarianrennetMadeonStandishParkFarminOxlynchGloucestershirebyJonathanCrumpInthedayswhenallfarmhousesmadecheesethecreamwouldbeskimmedofftheeveningrsquosmilktomakebutterandtheskimmedmilkthatwasleftwasputwiththefollowingmorningrsquosfullmilktomakeSingleGloucestercheeseOurSingleGloucesteristraditionallymaturedandclothbound

KIRKHAMrsquoSLANCASHIRE

UnpasteurisedcowrsquosmilkwithtraditionalanimalrennetMadeonLowerBeesleyFarmnearGoosnarghLancashirebyGrahamKirkhamCurdiscombinedfromthreedaysofcheesemakingndashatechniquethatharksbacktothetraditionofnothavingalargeherdmeaningthecheesemakerwouldneedtoconsolidateafewdaysrsquomilkingVerylittlestarterisusedallowingtheaciditytoriseslowlyGrahamrsquosfathermilksthecowsandtheycandiscusstheherdrsquosdietinthefarmhousekitchenTheentirecheeseissmotheredinbutterratherthanwaxallowingsomeairtopenetrateTheflavourislemonywithamildacidityGrahamdescribesitashavingalsquobutterycrumblersquo

OLDDEMDIKE

UnpasteurisedorganicewersquosmilkwithvegetarianrennetMadebyTimHomewoodandAngelaMorrisinMellsSomersetwithmilkfromShaftesburySimilartoayoungManchegothetasteiscleanandlemony

WIGMORE

UnpasteurisedewersquosmilkwithvegetablerennetMadeinRiseleyBerkshirebyAnneandAndyWigmoreattheendoftheirgardenThisisawashedcurdcheesemeaningaquantityofwheyisremovedduringthemakeandreplacedwithwaterndashatechniquethatreducestheacidityIthasagentleflavourwithatouchofcaramelthetextureissmoothandliabletoformawonderfulgooatroomtemperature

LITTLERYDING

UnpasteurisedewersquosmilkwithvegetarianrennetMadebyJamesandDavidBartlettontheirfamilyfarminNorthWoottonSomersetMouldripenedithasarichcreamytastewithagoodsaltiness

PERROCHE

UnpasteurisedgoatrsquosmilkwithtraditionalanimalrennetMadeatNealrsquosYardCreamerynearDorstoneHerefordshirebyCharlieWesthead(knownaffectionatelytousCharlieCheese)andHadynRobertsAfreshcheeseitstillhasalittlelactictasteIthasalemon-likeflavourwithagoodhelpingofgoat

STAWLEY

UnpasteurisedgoatrsquosmilkwithtraditionalanimalrennetMadeinStawleynearWellingtonSomersetbyCarolineAtkinsonfromhand-ladledcurdsCarolinersquoshusbandWilllooksaftertheirherdofgoatsAmixofmorningandeveningmilksthisbeautifulcheesehasasofttextureandslightlyhoneyedflavourWeregularlyhavebillygoatsonourmenuthattheycannotuseonthefarm

TYMSBORO

UnpasteurisedgoatrsquosmilkwithtraditionalanimalrennetMadeonSleightFarmnearTimsburySomersetbyMaryHolbrookHandladledandmadeinflat-toppedpyramid-shapedValencaymouldsAseriouslysmooth-texturedcheesethetasteislemonnutsandtheinevitablegoatiness

texturedcheesethetasteislemonnutsandtheinevitablegoatiness

LordrsquosLovage

JasonMitchellmakesAshridgeSparklingCideronBarkingdonFarmnearTotnesinDevonwithapplesfromhisunsprayedorchardsHeusesthemeacutethodechampeacutenoisewhichconsistsofatwo-stagefermentFirsttheciderisfermentedusingwildyeaststhenaftersixmonthsitismixedwithchampagneyeastandcanesugarandtransferredtochampagnebottleswhereitundergoesasecondaryfermentationThebottlesarestoredataconsistentlylowtemperatureforayearThisresultsinciderwithveryfinebubblesmuchlikechampagneMixingJasonrsquosciderwithourlovagesyrupwasanextremelygoodidea

HarvestingthesepreciousseedsisapleasureandfindingmoreandmorerecipesforthemisevenbetterThelovagesyrupdespiteitssweetnessaddsa

savourybackgroundnote

SERVES1

125mlAshridgeSparklingCider

FORTHELOVAGESYRUP

1tbsplovageseeds(or1tbspchoppedlovageleaves)150mlcastersugar

Tomakethelovagesyrupplacethelovageandsugarinapanwith150mlwaterandheatgentlystirringtodissolvethesugarBringtoasimmerthenremovefromtheheatandleavetocoolThesyrupwillkeepinthefridgeforupto2weeks

Tomadethedrinksimplypour25mlofthelovagesyrupintoachampagnefluteandtopupwiththecider

daggerLeavingtheciderontheyeastsediment(lees)givesthedrinkitscharacteristictoast-likeflavourThissedimentisremovedbyinvertingthebottlesusingapupitreoveramonthFinallythetopinchofthebotttlecontainingthesedimentisfrozenandremovedandamixtureofciderandsugarisaddedtoreplaceitThereisevidencetosuggestthatthismethodofsecondaryfermentationsoprecioustochampagneproducersbeganwithciderduringtheseventeenthcenturyinEnglandIthasbeenassociatedwithtwoindividualsLordScudamoreandJamesMerretandveryfinegentlemantheyweretoo

AppleFlip

JackdranksomethingsimilartothisattheHindsHeadrestaurantinBrayandwhenhearrivedbackatBarleyWoodheputtogetherthisversionTheflipisarefineddescendentoftheeggdrinksthatwereastapleinAmericaupuntilthemiddleofthenineteenthcenturyEarlyflipswereamixtureofbeerrumeggandsugarpouredfromcontainertocontainertoaeratethemAred-hotpokerwouldthenbeplungedintotheflipcausingittofrothand

red-hotpokerwouldthenbeplungedintotheflipcausingittofrothandaddingaburntcaramelflavourWehavenottriedthisyetbutitbecomesincreasinglytemptingafterafewflipsInEnglandthisstyleofdrinkneverachievedthepopularitythatithadincolonialAmericaalthoughtheegg-baseddrinksofChristmasareareminderoftheseoldstylesWeparticularlyliketheapplejuiceandbrandyblendsmadebyJulian

TemperleyofTheSomersetCiderBrandyCompanyAswellassomeexcellentvintagesofbrandyandciderhehascreatedtwodrinksKingstonBlackandPomonaKingstonBlackisslightlysweeterandissimilarinmanywaystoaPineaudesCharentesorwhiteport

SERVES1

45mlKingstonBlack25ml3-year-oldSomersetCiderBrandy20gcastersugar1free-rangeeggasmallgratingofnutmegalargechunkoficeorenoughicecubestofillacocktailshakerbytwothirds

CombinealltheingredientsexceptthenutmegandiceintheglasspartofaBostonshakerPlacethetinontopandtaptosecureitthenshakevigorouslyBreakaparttheshakerandthenpourthecontentsfromashighupasyoudarebackintothemetalhalfoftheshakerThisaddsevenmoreairtothedrinkDropintheicendashifyouhavealargechunkthiswillchillthedrinkwithoutdilutingittoomuchandwillalsogiveasmoother-texturedflipShakeuntilthesidesoftheshakercondensethenpourtheflipintoaglassusingaHawthornestrainerFinishwithafinegratingofnutmeg

TheOrchardatBarleyWood

BarleyWoodrsquosmainorchardwasthefirstpartoftheWalledGardenwesawwhenwecametolookataprospectiverestaurantwewerethinkingoftakingoverAtfirstsighttheorcharddidnotstandoutasbeingparticularlydifferentfromothersintheareabutafterwehadwalkedaroundwebecamecaptivatedbythehistorybehinditIthadamesmerisingsenseofalivingpastthathadsurvivedthetestoftimendashandcouldcontinuewellintothefutureOurbusinesswasfoundedonthebeliefthatcookingwithlocalseasonalproducewasaprincipleworthstrivingforandhereitwasndashaplacethatperfectlyepitomisedthisidealwiththeorchardatthecentreofitallHavingaccesstotheorchardandthebarnwherethejuicewouldbe

pressedbecameoneofthemostexcitingfacetsofthenewprojectwehadembarkeduponWewouldhavetheopportunitytoplayapartinreignitingthepassionfortheBritishapplendashandwhatbetterproducetoshowcaseour

thepassionfortheBritishapplendashandwhatbetterproducetoshowcaseourbeliefinlocalseasonalproducethantheappleitselfApplesaremostcertainlyseasonalbutalsoextremelyversatileastheykeepwellformanymonthsifyoustorethemproperlyTheygrowwellwithouttheuseofpesticidesorfertilisersastheunsprayedorchardatBarleyWooddemonstratesThereareover70typesofapplegrowingtheremakingitanexcellentlivingmuseumthatfeaturessomeofthebestvarietiesaroundApplesarefascinatingfruitsTheirgeneticmake-upissocomplexthatif

youweretoeatanapplefromaspecifictreeandplantapipfromithopingtoreproducethattreeitishighlyunlikelythatyouwouldendupwiththesamevarietyThisgeneticcharacteristiciswhatledtotheproliferationofvarietiesalthoughnotnecessarilytheonespeoplemostwantedtoeatTheancientprocesscalledgraftingallowedpeopletoreplicatethemostsought-aftervarietiesThissimpleyeteffectivetechniqueconsistsofmakinganincisioninthetree(knownasthestock)andinsertingasegmentofthedesiredtree(calledthescion)ThegraftisthensecuredwithtapeandcoveredwithtartopreventanywaterpenetrationWhatseemstobeafairlyrudimentaryoperationhasworkedremarkablywellforcenturiesThetechniquewasfirstusedbytheChinesebefore2000BCandsubsequentlyinAncientGreeceIntheUKwehavetheVictorianstothankforthemanyvarietiesof

applesthatgrowhereThekeencompetitivespiritofgardenersonVictorianestatessuchasBarleyWoodledthemtoproduceawiderangeoffruitandvegetablessomeofwhicharestillverypopulartodayThereweresomanyapplevarietiesaroundatthattimethatitwouldhavebeenpossibletoeatadifferentappleeachdayforsixyearsCurrentlythereareover2300varietiesofapplespreservedinthe

NationalFruitCollectionatBrogdaleinKentndashalthoughsadly70percentofapplessoldintheUKtodayareimportedApplevarietiesthatkeepwellanddonotbruisewhentransportedhavepushedmanyothertypesoffthemarketOneofouraimsattheWalledGardenistoshowcasethedifferentvarietiesinourcookinginthehopethatthiswillpromotediversityandencouragepeopletoplanttheirfavouritevarietyintheirgardenThesameappliestoourjuicewhichiscarefullyblendedfromtheapplevarietiesthatcomplementeachotherbestNotwobatchesarethesamesincewepresstheapplesastheybecomeripesotheearlierbatcheswilltastedifferentfromtheonesmadepredominantlyfromlate-seasonapplesThejuiceistrulyanartisanproductmadeinamanualwoodenpresssituatedinabarnatthe

artisanproductmadeinamanualwoodenpresssituatedinabarnatthebottomoftheWalledGardenHereisabrieflistofsomeofourfavouritevarietieswhichdeservegreaterrecognition

AshmeadrsquosKernelBlenheimOrangeCheddarCrossMorganSweetOldSomersetRussetJamesGrieveRibstonPippinLaxtonrsquosEpicureTydemanrsquosLateOrangeSummerGoldenPippin

MAKINGAPPLEJUICE

TheapplesarecollectedinseparatetrugsaccordingtotheirvarietythenplacedonametaltableandcleanedthoroughlywithapowerfuljetwashTheyaresubsequentlymovedtoanelectricscratterwhichislikeagiantgraterintheshapeofafunnelThegratedappleisplacedinawoodenframeontopofalsquocheeseclothrsquondasheffectivelyasievethatpreventsanygratedapplepassingthroughndashthenputontopofthewoodenpressTheprocessisrepeateduntilwehavestackedupsevenoreightframesofroughlyonevarietyofappleThismeansitistimetowinddownthepressndashanexhaustingbuthighlyrewardingstageoftheprocessastheblendedapplejuicestartsflowingandyoucanseetheresultofallofyourhardworkMoreimportantlyitisnowtimetodosometastingtoensurethatthejuiceispalatableThisisalsowhenbetsareplacedabouthowmanybottleswewillmakeonthisoccasionWiththehelpofabottlefillerwedecantthejuiceintoglass

bottlesWeliketouseclearglassasitshowsthewonderfulambercolourofthejuiceMostproducersaddascorbicacidtopreventoxidationThisresultsinagreencolourwhichwearetoldistheshadeofapplejuicethepublicisusedtoWedefiantlybelievethatthenaturalambercolourofthejuiceisbeautifulandshouldbecelebratedsoweomittheascorbicacidThebottlesareplacedinapasteurisingunitsetatover70degC

for20minutestoensurethatwecankeepthejuiceforuptoayear

MAKINGAPPLEJUICEATHOME

OnaverysmallscaleathomeyoucanmakeapplejuiceUseajuiceextractorifyouhaveoneorablenderandasieveThisisthesimplestmethodandisconvenientifyouhaveatreeinyourbackgardensoyoucanpickjusttheapplesthatyouneedforthatdayThejuicewillkeepforadayifstoredinthefridgebutwithoutpasteurisationyouwonrsquotbeabletokeepitformuchlongerIfyouareinterestedinlarger-scaleproductionathomeyou

canbuyatablepresswithacapacityofanythingfrom5to40litresDependingonitssizeyoumightneedtocuttheapplesupbeforepressingthemTopasteurisethejuicesimplyplaceitinasaucepanandheatuntilitreachesatemperatureofjustover70degCthenkeepitatthistemperaturefor20minutesYouwillneedtoinvestinagoodthermometertoensurenotonlythatthecorrecttemperatureisreachedbutthatitismaintainedfortherequiredtimeTransfertosterilisedbottlesAlternativelyyoucanpasteurisethejuiceinsterilisedbottles

thatarespecificallydesignedtowithstandtheheatofpasteurisationFillthemwiththejuice(butleavethelidsoff)TakealargedeeppanthatwillholdthebottlesstandinguprightandfillitwithwaterHeatuntilthetemperaturereaches70degCthenaddthebottlesandcheckthetemperatureofthewateragainOnceithasreturnedto70degCleavethebottlesfor20minutesthenremoveandscrewthelidsonThisprocesswillallowyoutokeepthejuiceforuptoayear

daggerWithover70applevarietiesintheorchardsattheWalledGardenittooksometimeuntilwecouldtriumphantlysaythatwehadsampledeachandeveryoneofthemSadlyMorganSweetwasnotavarietythatwechosetosamplefirstItisdreary-lookingandwebecametoosmittenwithAshmeadKernelstospareanytimeforothertypesWegotsuspiciousaboutthesehiddengemswhenanelderlycouplecameintothegardenslookingspecificallyforMorganSweetsThatyearwehadacopiouscropandgladlyletthemhaveabucketfulAfterthecouplersquosthirdvisitwethoughtwehadbettertrythemBecausetheywerelabelledasciderapplesweexpectedthemtobetoosharptoeatAsinglemouthfulwasenoughtoputtheirnameintocontextMorganSweetswerepopularinSomersetinthefirsthalfofthetwentiethcenturyOuroldercustomerstellustheywerecherishedtreatsduringtheWarwhenfoodwasscarceWealsohearofMorganSweetsbeinggreatscrumpingprizessovaluableat

wartimethattreelocationswerekeptsecrettoensureasteadysupplyforthoseintheknowTheseapplesareextremelyjuicywhenripeandweinitiallyaddedthem

toourapplejuicetobalancethesournessofearlycropsWewouldlovetoseearevivalofMorganSweetapplesintheUKifonlyasapoignantreminderofhowcertainvarietiesbecomeunfairlypigeonholedasdessertcidercookingtypes

SalsifyandOgleShieldGratin

ThesalsifyatBarleyWoodgrowsoppositethemainentrancetotherestaurantItisstunningtolookatespeciallywhenitsdelicateflowersturnintoanenormouslysoftdandelionastheygotoseedSeeingitdailyforawholeseasonencouragesustoincludeitineveryformofrecipeWecameupwiththisdishwhenagardeningmagazineaskedusto

produceasetoflunchtimerecipesforgardenerstoeatwhileatworkndashsomethingthatcouldbepreparedinadvancebutenjoyedoutdoorsItwasoriginallyintendedtobeeatencoldHoweverassoonasweaddedthecheeseittookonawholenewdimensionandwebecameconvincedthatourconcoctionhadtoeatenwhilestillhotOgleShieldisaworthySomersetequivalenttoFrenchracletteItmelts

verywellandinouropinionisoneofthebestcheesesforgratinsWedareanyonewhodoesnotlikecheesetotryameltingsliceofOgleShieldIthastheabilitytoturnanycheesescepticintoatrueturophile

SERVES4ndash6

1tbspcidervinegar600gsalsify200mlwhitewine800mlvegetablestock(seehere)200gOgleShieldcheese(orraclette)50gbutter65gplainflour

2tbspdoublecreamfrac12nutmegfinelygratedseasaltandfreshlygroundwhitepepper

Heattheovento180degCGasMark4FillalargebowlwithwaterandaddthevinegartoitWorkingquicklypeelthesalsifyandwashthoroughlyundercoldwaterCutitinto10cmlengthsandthenslicethemthinlylengthwayspreferablyonamandolinetoachieve10cmbatonsAssoonaseachlengthhasbeenslicedplaceittheacidulatedwaterThiswillpreventthesalsifyoxidisingandturningbrown

PutthewhitewineandvegetablestockinapanandbringtotheboilStrainthesalsifyaddtothepanandcookfor6ndash8minutesuntilitistenderbutretainsaslightbiteStrainthesalsifyretainingthecookingliquorReturntheliquortothepanandboiluntilreducedbytwothirds

Meanwhilethinlyslice150gofthecheeseandgratetherestArrangealayerofsalsifyinagratindishapproximately23cmtimes13cmcompletelycoveringthebaseAddanotherlayerofsalsifyfollowedbyathinlayerofOgleShieldslicesandrepeatuntilallthesalsifyandslicedcheesehavebeenadded

MeltthebutterinasaucepanaddtheflourandstirtomakeathickpasteGraduallypourinthereducedcookingliquorstirringconstantlyYoumaynotneedalltheliquidndashstopwhentheconsistencyislikesinglecreamStirinthedoublecreamthenaddthenutmegandsomesaltandpeppertotaste

SlowlypourthesauceoverthelayeredgratinCoverthedishwithfoilplaceintheovenandbakefor25minutesRemovethefoilsprinklethegratedcheeseoverthetopandplaceunderahotgrilluntilthecheesehasmeltedandbeguntobrown

VincentCastellanorsquosVenisonChorizo

OurfriendVincentCastellanoputtogetherthisrecipeforwhenwehaveahealthy-sizedroebuckinthekitchenHebeganhiscareerasapot-washeratacharcuterieinGrenobleintheearly1970sSeeingwholepigsarrivingonaMondayandleavingasterrinespacircteacutessalamiandhamsjustafewdayslaterinspiredhimtoturnasummerjobintoatwo-yearapprenticeshipHemovedtotheUKin1983andworkedasachefsincetherewerefewopportunitiesforcharcutiersthenItisonlyinthelastdecadethathehastakenuphisoriginalprofessionfulltimeonceagainfirmlydeclaringlsquoItiswhatIknowbestrsquoTheUKhasneverdevelopedatraditionofcuredsausagesforthesimple

reasonithasadampclimateInsteadwehavebecomeexpertsatmakingfreshsausagesThecountrieswithacultureofdry-curedmeatsarelargelyconfinedtomountainousregionswithaprevailingdrywindfromthenorthTheSpanishhavedevelopedaparticularskillincuringthathasevolvedinpartduetotheiridealweatherconditionsTherecipewehavedevelopedwithVincentisbasedonatraditionalcured

SpanishchorizocontainingpaprikasmokedpaprikaandgarlicOurversionalsoincludesturmericclovesjunipercorianderandsmokedchilliplusourownsloeginAlternativelyourhousevermouth(seehere)worksbeautifullyBothofferagentlebackgroundflavourDuringautumnwemakethechorizowithneckandshouldercutsfromaroebuckDuetoitslowfatcontentadditionalfatisneededsoweaddporkbellyandbackfattakenfromGloucesterOldSpotpigsThesausageishungfor6ndash7weeksduringwhichtimeitisfermentedbylactic-producingbacteriaTheincreaseinacidandtheparalleldehydrationcoupledwiththehighsaltcontentpreservethechorizowhileintensifyingitsflavourForthecasingVincentusesoxrunnersanaturalporouscasingdistinguishedbyitsgentlecurveTheingredientsbelowaregiveninrelationto1kgoftotalmeatA

manageableamounttomakeis3kgwhichwillfilla3-metrelengthofhogcasing(32mmdiameter)ora15-metrelengthofoxrunners(50ndash55mmdiameter)ThequantityofcuringsaltiscriticalbutalltheotherspicescanbeadjustedaccordingtotasteThecuringsaltcontainssaltpetrewhichpreservesthecolourofthemeatandinhibitsunwelcomebacterialgrowth

Youwillneedasausagemakeroramixerwithasausage-makingattachmentThesecanbeboughtonlinefromwwwweschenfeldercoukwhichalsosellscuringsaltandcasingsAlltheequipmentusedformakingthesausagesshouldbesterilisedfirst

hogcasings(forsmallerchorizo)oroxrunners(forlargerones)alittlevinegar

EACHKILOOFMEATSHOULDCONSISTOFTHEFOLLOWING

800gbonelessvenisonshoulderbellyflapandneckmeat100gporkbelly100gporkbackfat

FORTHESEASONINGS(ALLCALCULATEDPERKILOOFMEAT)

25gcuringsalt20mlsloeginorvermouth20gpaprika5gsmokedpaprika3gsmokedchillipowder1gcayennepepper1gturmeric2ggarlicpowderfrac14tspgroundcumin1ggroundcorianderfrac14tspgroundcloves⅛tspgroundjuniper⅛tspgroundstaranise

ThoroughlywashthesaltoffthecasingsthensoaktheminalargeplastictubofcoldwaterforatleastanhourChangethewateradding1partvinegarto40partswaterandsoakfor30minutesbeforeuse

Cutallthemeatinto3ndash5cmpiecesplaceinabowlandaddthecuringsaltMixthoroughlyandthenstoreinthefridgefor24hoursMixinthealcoholandreturntothefridgeforafurther24hours

Mincethemeatonthefinesettingofamincer(an8mmmincingplate)ensuringthatthetemperatureremainsbelow8degCAddtheremainingseasoningsandmixuntilalltheingredientsadheretogetherthenpressthemixdownfirmlywithyourhandsinordertopushoutasmuchairaspossiblePlaceinasausagefiller

Ifusingoxrunnerscuttheminto30cmlengthsbeforefillingHogcasingscanbefilledcontinuouslyandtiedinto15cm-longsausages

MakeaknotatoneendofyourchosencasingslidetheotherendoverthenozzleofthesausagefillerandfillgraduallyensuringenoughtensioniskeptRemovefromthefillerandtietheendastightlyaspossiblewithstringmakingaloopinitwithwhichtohangthesausagePricktheskinwithaneedletoletoutanyairpockets

Hangthechorizoatroomtemperature(ideally25degC)for24hoursAfterthisstagethechorizocanbeusedforcookingIfyouwantacuredsausagemovethechorizotohanginacoolplace(preferably12ndash14degC)withahumiditylevelof80percentndashyoucanbuyhygrometersingardencentreswithwhichtocheckthehumidityOverthenextfewdaysawhitelsquomouldrsquoshoulddevelopontheskinMaturationcantakefrom3weeks(forhogcasings)to7weeks(foroxrunners)ItrsquosworthcheckingyourchorizoonadailybasisBecauseitisdependentontemperaturehumiditylevelsandthelengthanddiameterofthesausagethematurationtimewillvaryWhenthechorizoisreadyitwillfeelfirmwhensqueezedIfyousliceitwithasharpknifethemeatshouldholdtogetherwellTheskincanbeeatenorremovedasyoupreferTheflavourofthechorizoshouldbeintensewithagoodacidityandsweetnessandspiceflavourscomingthroughintheaftertasteItwillkeepwellinthebottomofthefridgewrappedinfoiloracleanclothforuptoamonth

BASICRECIPES

Stocks

AgoodstockisavitalcomponentofyourrepertoireStockformsthebaseofcountlessdishesandhavingastockthatpacksamassivepunchofflavourmeansthatyouarehalfwaytocreatingadeliciousmealInvestingalittlebitoftimeandmoneyinstockisaworthycauseandweguaranteeyouitwillimproveyourcookingnoendManypeoplendashchefsincludedndashonlyusebonesforstock-makingWelike

tousetheslightlytoughermoreflavourfulcutsofmeatndashtheycanboostastockrsquoscomplexityandtheyrsquorealsoquitecheaptheymaycostalittlemorethanbonesbuttheextraflavourmorethanmakesupforitCombinethatwithagoodratioofvegetablesandherbstweakingthesweetnessorfreshnessaccordingtotasteIainlikestousemorecarrotsonionsandgarlictoachieveasweeterresultHerbscanbeaddedattheveryendaddingfreshnesstothebaseflavourYoucanevenaddthemasawarminfusionrightatthelastsecondThisgivesyougreatcontrolovertheflavourofthestockYoucanmaketherecipesinthisbookforimmediateuseordoubleor

triplethequantitiesandfreezemostinsmallbatchesforupto3monthsIfyoudevotehalfadayorsoeverymonthtomakingstocksyoushouldhaveaconstantsupplyinthefreezerAsalwaysusetheserecipesasaguideandonceyouunderstandthebasicprinciplesexperimentSomeofourdisheshaveundergonecountlessreinventionstogetthemtowheretheyarenowWemakeallourstocksinthepressurecooker(formoreonpressurecookingandwhywedothisseehere)

BeefStock

YIELDSABOUT2KG

1kgbeefboneschoppedinto25ndash5cmpieces(askyourbutchertodothis)600goxtailsectioned

rapeseedoil

rapeseedoil360gonionsfinelysliced1kgbeefshinorchuckchoppedinto25cmcubes220gcarrotsfinelysliced130gbuttonmushroomsfinelysliced220gtomatoesslicedfrac12smallheadofgarlicseparatedintoclovesandsmashedwiththeflatsideofaknifeHeattheovento180degCGasMark4LightlyandthoroughlyrubthebonesandtheoxtailwithrapeseedorvegetableoilPlaceinaroastingtray(orseparateroastingtraysifnecessary)androastfor45ndash60minutesturningthepiecesevery15minutesuntildarkgoldenbrownIfanypartsoftheoxtailbecomebrownbeforeeverythingelseremovefromtheovenandsetaside

MeanwhilecoatthebottomofapressurecookerwithrapeseedoilandplaceoveramediumheatAddtheonionsandcookoveramedium-lowheatuntildarkandcaramelisedndashthiswilltakeabout30ndash45minutesstirringregularlyandscrapinganystickybitsfromthebottomofthepanDonotallowtoburnTakeofftheheatandallowtocool

HeatafryingpanuntilextremelyhotAddafilmofrapeseedoiltheoilshouldbegintosmokeIfitdoesnotthenkeepontheheatuntilsmokinghotAddthebeefshinorchuckandcookturninguntildarkbrownonallsidesavoidingburningTakethemeatoutofthepanandsetasideDrainanyfatoutofthepanbeforeplacingthepanbackonahighheatAddenoughwatertocoverthebaseofthepanandbringtotheboilScrapeawayanyleftoversthatarestucktothebottomofthepanAddthisdeglazingliquidtothepressurecooker

WipeoutyourfryingpanaddafilmofrapeseedoilandplaceoveramediumheatAddthecarrotsandfryuntilsoftandlightlygolden(about20ndash30minutes)AddthecarrotstothecookedonionsalongwiththemushroomsandsetasideuntilreadytouseDeglazethepanusingthesamemethodasaboveandaddtheliquidtothepressurecooker

RepeatingtheprocessfrythetomatoesinoiluntiltheytakeonsomecolourscrapingoffanystickybitsfromthebottomofthepanAddthegarlicandfryforafurthercoupleofminutesensuringnothingburnsAddthe

fryforafurthercoupleofminutesensuringnothingburnsAddthetomatoesandgarlictothepressurecookeranddeglazethefryingpanwithwaterasbeforeAddthedeglazingliquidtothepressurecooker

RemovethebonesfromtheovenwhentheyareadeepgoldencolourPouroffanyexcessfatfromtheroastingtrayPlacethebonesandoxtailinthepressurecookerPuttheroastingtray(s)overahighheatDeglazewithwaterasbeforeandaddtheliquidtothepressurecooker

AddenoughwatertothepressurecookersothattheingredientsareonlyjustcoveredPlaceoveramedium-highheatandbringtoagentlesimmerskimmingawayanyfatandimpuritiesthatrisetothesurfaceOnceatagentlesimmerplacethelidonthepressurecookerandturntheheatuptofullAllowthepressurecookertocometofullpressurebeforereducingtheheatCookatfullpressurefor2hoursRemovefromtheheatandallowthepressurecookertocooltoroomtemperaturebeforeremovingthelidStrainthestockthroughtwolayersofwetmuslinImmediatelychillinabowlsetoveranotherbowlfilledwithiceRemovethelayeroffatthatformsbeforeusingUsewithin4daysorfreezeforupto3months

Whitechickenstock

WeusewhitechickenstockwhenwewantagreatbaseflavourthatdoesnrsquotoverpowerthetasteorcolourofothermoredelicateingredientsItismoresubtlethanourbrownchickenstock(seehere)Thevegetablesaregentlysoftenedandthebonesbrieflyblanchedtoremoveanyimpuritiesthenpressurecookedfor90minutesItisgreatforrisottossoupsandsauces

YIELDSABOUT2KG

15kgchickenwingschoppedinto3ateachjointrapeseedoil300gonionsfinelysliced150gcarrotsfinelysliced120gbuttonmushroomsfinelysliced4garlicclovessmashedwiththeflatsideofaknifePutthechickenwingsinasaucepanandcoverwithcoldwaterPlaceonamediumheatandbringtotheboilskimmingoffanyscumthatrisestothesurfaceOnceboiling

totheboilskimmingoffanyscumthatrisestothesurfaceOnceboilingdrainimmediatelydiscardingthewaterRinsethewingsthoroughlyundercoldwater

Coatthebottomofapressurecookerwithafilmofrapeseedoilandplaceoveramedium-lowheatAddallthevegetablesandcookuntilsoftenedwithoutcolouringthiswilltakeabout10ndash15minutesAddthechickenwingsandenoughcoldwaterjusttocoverPlaceonamedium-highheatandbringtoagentlesimmerskimmingawayanyfatandimpuritiesthatrisetothesurfaceOnceatagentlesimmerplacethelidonthepressurecookerandturntheheatuptofullAllowthepressurecookertocometofullpressurebeforereducingtheheatCookatfullpressurefor90minutes

RemovefromtheheatandallowtocooltoroomtemperaturebeforeremovingthelidStrainthroughtwoormorelayersofwetmuslinoraveryfinechinoisorsieveImmediatelychillinabowlsetoveranotherbowlfilledwithice(orputstraightintothefridge)Usewithin4daysorfreezeforupto3months

BrownChickenStock

YIELDSABOUT2KG

2kgchickenwingschoppedinto3ateachjointafewtablespoonsofskimmedmilkpowder(seeboxbelow)rapeseedorgroundnutoil

300gonionsfinelysliced150gcarrotsfinelysliced150gbuttonmushroomsfinelysliced4garlicclovessmashedwiththeflatsideofknife(or2wetgarlicclovesifavailableandinseason)Heattheovento200degCGasMark6PlacethewingsinaroastingtrayevenlyspreadinasinglelayerandsprinkleoverenoughmilkpowdertolightlycoatthemRoastfor45ndash60minutesturningevery15minutesuntilthewingsareabeautifuldarkbrowncolourThefirsttimeyouturnthewingsgivethepaleundersidealightsprinklingofmilkpowdertooThiswillensurethewingsareanevencolourandimpartmoreflavourintothestock

PlacethepressurecookeroveramediumheattogetitwarmbeforeaddingenoughrapeseedoiltocoverthebottomAddtheonionsReducetoamedium-lowheatandcooktheonionsuntilstickyandcaramelisedthiswilltakeabout30ndash45minutesStirthemregularlytakingcarenottoletthemburnandadjustingtheheatasneededScrapeanystickybitsoffthebottomofthepanWhentheonionsarecaramelisedaddthecarrotsandcookuntilsoftRemovefromtheheatandaddthemushroomsandgarlicSetaside

WhenthewingsareevenlycolouredremovefromtheovenanddrainthefatfromthetrayPlaceallthewingsintothepressurecooker

PlacetheroastingtrayoverahighheatandaddacoveringofwaterandbringtotheboilScrapeoffthestickybitsofmeatwithaspatulaorwoodenspoonPourthedeglazingliquidandcrispybitsofmeatintothepressurecooker

AddenoughcoldwatertothepressurecookertojustcoverthebonesPlaceonamedium-highheatandbringtoagentlesimmerskimmingawayanyfatandimpuritiesthatrisetothesurfaceOnceatagentlesimmerplacethelidonthepressurecookerandturntheheatuptofullAllowthepressurecookertocometofullpressurebeforereducingtheheatCookatfullpressurefor2hours

RemovefromtheheatandallowtocoolnaturallytoroomtemperaturebeforereleasingthelidRemovethelidbeforestrainingthestockthroughseverallayersofwetmuslinorthroughaveryfinechinoisorsieveRefrigerateimmediatelyremovingthelayeroffatfromthetopbeforeuseUsewithin4daysorfreezeforupto3months

UsingmilkpowdertodustthewingsmayseemalittleoddbutthemilkpowderisextraproteinthatbooststheMaillard

Reaction(thebrowningonmeatthatgivesititscharacteristicflavour)ItisarevelationItgivestheliquidanextrahitof

meatinessandresultsinastockthatisarichdeepbrownItrsquosanexcellentandsimplewayofboostingyourstockrsquosflavourprofile

Fishstock

YIELDSABOUT1KG

rapeseedoil100gonionfinelysliced80gcarrotsfinelysliced80gbuttonmushroomfinelysliced1tspfennelseed1tspcorianderseed1kgfishbones(avoidoilyfishlikemackereltroutorsalmon)PlaceapressurecookeroveramediumheatandaddathinfilmofrapeseedoilAddalltheingredientsexceptthefishbonesandcookuntilsoftenedndashthiswilltakeabout5ndash10minutesAddthefishbonestothepressurecookerandaddenoughcoldwaterjusttocover

Placeoveramedium-highheatandbringtoagentlesimmerskimmingoffanyimpuritiesthatrisetothesurfaceOnceatagentlesimmerplacethelidonthepressurecookerandturntheheatuptofullAllowthepressurecookertocometofullpressurebeforereducingtheheatCookatfullpressurefor20minutesRemovefromtheheatandallowtocooltoroomtemperatureStrainthroughtwolayersofwetmuslinintoabowlsetoveranotherbowlfilledwithiceRefrigerateforupto3daysorfreezeforupto1month

VegetableStock

ThisvegetablestockisdelicatesweetandlightlyaromaticItrsquosgreatinrisottossoupsstewsandformakingvegetariansaucesForconveniencemakeatleastdoublethisrecipeandfreezesmallerquantitiesforuseatalaterdate

YIELDSABOUT1KG

rapeseedorvegetableoil550gonionsfinelysliced500gcarrotfinelysliced500gmushroomsfinelysliced(buttonorbrown)200gceleryfinelysliced10garliccloves(or1smallgarlicbulb)smashedwiththeflatsideofaknife2tbspcorianderseed

1tbspfennelseeds4wholestaranises2tspblackpeppercorns2bayleaves

PlaceapressurecookeroveramediumheatandaddathinfilmofrapeseedoilAddallthevegetablestothepanandsweatfor5ndash10minutesuntilthevegetableshavesoftenedAddallthespicesandbayleavesandcoverwithwaterAddthelidandturntheheatuptofullBringtofullpressureandthenreducetheheatCookatfullpressurefor15minutesRemovefromtheheatandallowtocooltoroomtemperature

RemovethelidandpassthestockthroughtwolayersofwetmuslinRefrigerateimmediatelyandusewithin5daysorfreezeforupto3months

MushroomStock

ThismushroomstockisoneofthemoresimplestocksthatyouwillcomeacrossutilisingonlytwoingredientsItssimplicitydoesnotdetractfromitsabilitytoimpartarichumamiflavourintothedish(seehere)ortohelpboostthistasteindishesalreadyrichinumami

YIELDSABOUT500G

500gbuttonorportobellomushroomsfinelysliced500gcoldwater

PutthemushroomsandwaterinapressurecookerandplaceoverahighheatBringtofullpressurebeforeturningtheheatdowntolowCookatfullpressurefor15minutesbeforeturningtheheatoffAllowtocoolto

fullpressurefor15minutesbeforeturningtheheatoffAllowtocooltoroomtemperatureRemovethelidandstrainthestockthroughtwolayersofwetmuslinRefrigerateimmediately

Usewithin5daysorfreezeforupto3months

TomakethisstockwithoutapressurecookerplacetheingredientsinasaucepanandbringtoasimmerKeepatasteadysimmerfor20minutesbeforeremovingfromtheheatAllowtocoolbeforestrainingandrefrigeratingasabove

TheEthicureanSaladDressing

100grapeseedoil60gvintagecidervinegarsuchasOstlerrsquos8gDijonmustardfrac14tspxanthangum(optionalbutrecommended)

AddalltheingredientsexcepttheoiltoablenderorstickblenderjugBlitzonfullspeedfor30secondsbeforeslowlypouringintheoilasyouwouldtomakeamayonnaiseContinueaddinginathinsteadystreamuntilalltheoilisincorporatedBlitzforafurther30secondsonfullspeedRefrigerateforuptoaweek

TomakebyhandcombinealltheingredientsexcludingtheoilinabowlWhiskvigorouslyuntilairyGraduallyaddtheoilwhilewhiskinghard

DarkPlumChutney

MAKESABOUT1KG

550gplumshalvedandstoned450mlmaltvinegar550gdarkbrownsugar300gsultanas150gonionsfinelydiced

10ggarlicfinelydiced35gsalt10gmustardseeds15ggroundgingerfrac12tsponion(nigella)seedsfrac12tspgroundstaranisefrac12tspgroundcinnamon1blackcardamompod

Puttheplumsinalargeheavy-basedsaucepanorapreservingpanalongwiththevinegarandsugarSimmeruntilthefruitbreaksdownthenaddalltheremainingingredientsReturntoasimmerandcookforaround40minutesuntilthickenedStiroftenwhilebeingmindfulofsplashesIthasatendencytospitwhenitisclosetothecorrectconsistencyWhenitisreadyallthethinliquidwillhaveevaporatedandthechutneywillsmelldeeplyrichlikeliquorice

Pourcarefullyintohotsterilisedjars(seehere)andsealInvertthejarsforamomenttoensurethelidsaresterilisedthenturntherightwayupandleavetocoolwhileyouwritealabelforeachjar

PickledBeetroot

PreservingvegetableswithsaltandvinegarisinvaluabletoaseasonalkitchenThismethodalsosuitscarrotcauliflowerandanyotherfirmvegetablesThemethodofcalculatingthesaltandvinegarcontentinthismethodisadaptabletovaryingweightsofproduceandthereforegreatforseasonalglutsChangethespicestosuittheveg

450gpeeledbeetrootcubedinto1cmcubescidervinegarfineseasalt4staranise1tsppeppercorns1tspcuminseeds

1tspcuminseeds

Sprinklethebeetrootgenerouslywithsaltandleavefor1hourDrainandrinseundercoldwater

Placethebeetrootintoa500mlKilnerjarorliddedtupperwarecontainerPlacethecontaineronasetofscalesandsetthemtozero(orlsquotarersquo)CoverthecontentsinwaterandmakeanoteoftheweightDiscardthewaterWeighoutthesameamountofcidervinegarasittookwatertocoverthebeetrootCalculate10percentofthisweightandaddthatweightinsalt(eg200gofcidervinegarwouldrequire20gsalt)PlacethevinegarsaltandspicesinasaucepanoveramediumheatandbringtotheboilImmediatelypourthehotliquidoverthebeetrootinthejarorcontainerEnsurethebeetrootiscompletelycoveredbeforesealingthelidandallowingtocooltoroomtemperatureRefrigerateonceopenedItwillkeepforupto2months

PickledNasturtiumSeeds

AtthestartofNovemberasthefirstfrostsdescendthenasturtiumsthathavebeensousefulfortheirleavesandflowerswillbegintogotoseedAself-seedingplantsuchasthiswonrsquotmissafewseedpodssoweharvestasmanyaswecanandpicklethemasalsquopoormanrsquoscaperrsquo

asmanynasturtiumseedpodsasyoucanfindfineseasalt

PERLITREOFPICKLINGORCIDERVINEGAR

picklingorcidervinegar10gseasaltor10percentbyweightofvinegar2cloves4freshbayleaves5allspiceberries5blackpeppercorns

Sprinklethenasturtiumseedpodsgenerouslywithsaltandleavefor1hourDrainandrinseundercoldwater

Placethenasturtiumseedpodsintoa500mlKilnerjarorliddedtupperwarecontainerPlacethecontaineronasetofscalesandsetthemtozero(orlsquotarersquo)CoverthecontentsinwaterandmakeanoteoftheweightDiscardthewaterWeighoutthesameamountofcidervinegarasittookwatertocovertheseedpodsCalculate10percentofthisweightandaddthatweightinsalt(eg100gofcidervinegarwouldrequire10gsalt)PlacethevinegarsaltandspicesinasaucepanoveramediumheatandbringtotheboilImmediatelypourthehotliquidovertheseedpodsinthejarorcontainerEnsuretheseedpodsarecompletelycoveredbeforesealingthelidInvertthejarsforamomenttoensurethelidsaresterilisedbeforeallowingtocooltoroomtemperatureRefrigerateonceopenedandkeepforupto1month

PickledCarrots

250gcarrotscutinto1cmcubescidervinegar4blackcardamompods2tbspcorianderseedsseasalt

StartbygenerouslysprinklingthecubedcarrotswithsaltSetasidefor1hourforthemoisturetobedrawnout

DrainthecarrotsandrinseoffanyexcesssaltPlaceinatupperwarecontainerlargeenoughjusttoholdthemPlacethecontaineronasetofscalesandsetthemtozero(orlsquotarersquo)CoverthecontentsinwaterandmakeanoteoftheweightDiscardthewaterWeighoutthesameamountofcidervinegarasittookwatertocoverthecarrotsCalculate10percentofthisweightandaddthatweightinsalt(eg200gofcidervinegarwouldrequire20gsalt)PlacethevinegarandsaltinasaucepanwiththecardamomandcorianderandbringtotheboilOnceboilingremovefromtheheatandpouroverthecarrotsAllowtocooltoroomtemperaturebeforerefrigeratingThepickledcarrotswillkeepforupto4weeks

WinterFruitJelly

WehaveahedgerowthatreadslikeabookofautumnandwinterfruitsndashblackberrybullacedamsonhawthornloganberryrosehiprowanandsloePreservingthemasjelliesgivesusfreshburstsofvitaminCthroughthewinterandaddsdepthtodishescookedoverthecoldermonthsUsewhateverfruitsyouhaveinwhatevercombinationfollowingthis

basicmethodWehavefoundthatfreezingtheberriesfirstandthensteamingforjuiceextractionproducesasatisfyingclearjellyThesecondbenefittofreezingthefruitisthatyouwillhavealittlemoretimetoforagebeforemakingyourjellyWedevelopedthismethodafterwelearntthatrowanberriesrequire

freezingbeforeuseastheycontainparasorbicacidanacidthatisindigestibletohumansThisaciddegradestoasafesorbicacidwhenfrozenOursteambasketmethodforextractingjuicefromfruitprovedtobemoreeffectivewhenthefruithadspenttimeinthefreezerpresumablybecausethecellwallsarebrokendownbyfreezingtherebyreleasingmoreliquidatthesteamingstage

MAKESABOUT5JARSPERKGOFFRUIT

500ghedgerowfruit500gBramleyorcrabapplespeeledandroughlychopped(pipsandcoresleftin)750gcastersugarperlitrekgofjuice

30mlorganicpreservative-freelemonjuice(bottledjuicehasasetacidity)perlitrekgofjuiceYOUWILLALSONEED

ajamthermometerordigitalkitchenprobeasheetofmuslinsterilisedjamjarsandlidsorKilnerjars(seehereforinstructionsonsterilising)LineasteamingbasketwithafoldedpieceofmuslinthisisnotessentialthoughitwillallowonlyjuicetofallintothepanbelowaidingtheclarityofthefinishedjellyPlacethehedgerowfruitandBramleyorcrabapplesinthesteamingbasketandsteamoverapanofboilingwatersetoveramediumtolowheatfor1frac12hoursRemoveboththesteamerandwaterfromtheheatandleavetocoolanddrainovernight

ThenextdaycheckthatthefruitiswelldrainedYoucansqueezeanylastmoisturefromthemuslinbutthiswillmakethejellycloudyCompostordiscardthenowflavourlessfruit

MeasurethevolumeoftheliquidinthepanndashorbetterstillweighitforaccuracyndashandpourintoalargecleanstainlesssteelpanAdd750gofsugarand30mloflemonjuiceperkiloofliquidCookoverahighheatstirringuntilthesugarisdissolvedLeavetoboilvigorouslywithoutstirringfor10ndash20minutesandthencheckthetemperatureitshouldbearound102degCYouareaimingforasettingpointtemperatureofabout103ndash105degCIfyoudonrsquothaveathermometerputaspoonfulofthejamsyrupontoachilledplateandplaceinthefridgefor1minuteSlideyourfingeracrosstheplateintothedotofsyrupandseewhetheritcrinklesupandholdsformforamomentIfitdoesthenithasreachedsettingpointIfnotcontinuetocookthejellyoverthesamehighheattestingevery5minutesAperfectlysetjellyoncechilledwillonlygiveslightresistancetoaspoonandholdshape(Itisworthnotingthatajellythatisover-firmismoreusefulthanonethathasnotsetatallsountilyouareconfidentwithyourthermometeraimforthehigherendofthetemperaturesettingzone)Skimthejelly(oraddalittleknobofbutterandstir)toremoveanyscumthencarefullypourintowarmsterilisedjarsleavingacentimetreofspaceatthetopClosethelidstightlytheninvertthemfornomorethanaminutetoensurethelidisheatedwellandsterilisedReturntoanuprightpositionandleavetocoolbeforestoringinadarkcoolplaceforimmediateconsumptionoruptooneyear

VARIATIONS

CrabapplemedlarandquincewillworkperfectlywellwithoutadditionalpectinfromBramleyapplesbutbesuretoincludetheircoresandpipsduringsteamingandthecitrusduringcookingtosetthemYoucanincludeextraappletoincreasethevolumeifyoulikeQuinceneedtheirfinedownyhairswashingoffpriortocookingQuincejellyhaspineappleovertonesandanunbelievableamberglowwhenfinishedinthejarThemedlarsneedtobelsquoblettedrsquobeforeusingTheyfallfromthetreestillhardandneedtobeleftsomewherecooltogosoftsquishyandblackenedCrabapplejellyisagreatvehicleforotherherbswhichyoucanaddduringthesteamingprocessStaraniselavendertarragonrosemarymintandsageareallgreatandgeraniumleafworkedatreatwhenwetrieditonawhim

Flakypastry

MakingflakypastryisalengthybutrelativelysimpleprocessItrequires

MakingflakypastryisalengthybutrelativelysimpleprocessItrequiresrestingforanhourbetweeneachlsquoturnrsquo(aturnreferstoeachtimeithasbeenrolledoutbutterandlardaddedthenfoldedandreturnedtothefridge)AlwaysresistanyurgetokneadasthiswillmakethepastryelasticPerfect

flakypastryshouldbecrispandverylightWhatyouwantisapastrythatincorporatesthemultilayeredfatandpocketsofairthatcreatetheflakytexture

150gsaltedbutteratroomtemperaturebutnotoily150glardatroomtemperaturebutnotoily350gstrongwhiteflour1tspfineseasalt1frac12tsplemonjuice

Measureout200mlcoldwateraddahandfuloficecubesandsetaside

PutthebutterandlardinasmallmixingbowlandmixtogetherwithawoodenspoonThiswilltakesomeworkbuttheaimistogetthetwofairlyhomogenousWeighoutthree70gportionsandplaceeachinitsowndishCovertwoofthemwithclingfilmandplaceinthefridgeYouwillbeleftwith90gofbutterlardinthemixingbowlandonedishofbutterlardatyourside

SifttheflourandsaltintoabowlandaddthelemonjuiceAddthe90gfatleftinthemixingbowlthoroughlyscrapingthesidesofthebowlwithaspatulatogetallofitoutRubthefatintotheflourwithyourfingertipsuntilthemixtureresemblesroughbreadcrumbsIftherearestilllumpsoffatdonrsquotworryndashthiswillhelpcreateairpocketsinthepastryMakeawellinthecentreofthemixtureandplacethebowlontoweighingscalesKeepingbacktheicecubespourtheicedwaterintothecentreofthewellmakingsureyoudonrsquotaddmorethan200gMixthewaterintotheflourwitharound-bladedknifeuntilapliableslightlystickydoughhasformedTurnoutontoalightlyflouredworksurfaceShapethedoughroughlyintoacubeandusingarollingpinrollitoutawayfromyoutocreatearectangleapproximately30cmtimes15cm

Takethe70gfatthatdidnotgointhefridgebreakitroughlyapartintochunksanddotevenlyaroundthebottomtwothirdsoftherectangleFoldthetopthirdofpastryoverthemiddlethirdthenfoldupthebottomthirdof

thetopthirdofpastryoverthemiddlethirdthenfoldupthebottomthirdofpastryndashlikefoldingaletterSealtheleftandrightedgesandthensealthehorizontalfoldbypressingwithyourthumbandfingersUsingyourthumbmarkanindentinthecentreofthepastrylsquoenvelopersquoThisdotsignifiesthatitisthepastryrsquosfirstlsquoturnrsquoItrsquoswellworthdoingasrememberingwhereyoursquoreuptoafteralongafternooncanbechallengingWrapthepastryinclingfilmandplaceinthefridgeforatleast1hour

RemovethepastryfromthefridgeandgiveitaquarterturnanticlockwisesothatoneoftheshortersidesisnearesttoyouRollthepastryoutawayfromyoutoproduceanother30cmtimes15cmrectangleRepeattheprocesswithoneofthedishesofchilledlardandbutterfillingthebottomtwo-thirdsofthepastrywithdotsofthemixturethenfoldingsealingandmarking2indentsinthepastry(tosignifyitssecondlsquoturnrsquo)Wrapinclingfilmandreturntothefridgeforatleast1hour

RepeattheentireprocessusingthefinalramekinoffatrememberingtogivethepastryaquarterturnanticlockwiseMark3indentstosignifyitsthirdandfinalturnItisnotunusualforflakyorpuffpastrytohave6turnsThisistimeconsumingbutifyouwanttotryityouwillhaveanevenlighterflakierpastryIfoptingfortheextraturnsyouwillhaverunoutoffatattheendofyourthirdturnContinuerollingandfoldingasyouhavebeenbutwithouttheadditionoffatWestronglyrecommendthese3extraturnsastheextralayerswillresultinacrispierlessdensepastrythatisfarsuperior

Puffpastry

PuffpastryismadeinthesamewayastheFlakyPastryabovebutusingallunsaltedbutterinsteadofsaltedbutterandlard

CandiedPeel

1lemonpeeledwithallthewhitepithstillattachedtothepeel1bloodorangepeeledwithpithstillattached

1thumb-sizedpieceoffreshgingerpeeled500gcastersugar

PlacethecitruspeelandgingerinapancoverwithcoldwaterandbringtotheboiloveramediumheatDraindiscardingthewaterReturntothepancoverwithfreshwaterandbringslowlytotheboilagainthendrainRepeatthisprocessoncemore(ithelpstoextractthebitterness)thenplacethepeelandgingerinice-coldwaterfor10minutes

Meanwhileputthesugarinapanwith750mlcoldwaterandheatstirringoccasionallyuntilthesugarhasdissolvedRemovefromtheheatandsetaside

Cutthegingerandfruitsinto5mmcubesandaddthemtothesugarsyrupCookonthelowestpossibleheatfor6hoursathermometerwillbeusefulhereasyouneedtokeepthesyrupat70ndash80degCYoumayneedtohavethepanhalf-onhalf-offtheheatdependinghowhottheburnerisWhenthepeelisdoneitwillbesweetandsoftinathicksyrupStrainandleavetocoolthenstoreinanairtightcontainerItwillkeepforaboutamonth

coolthenstoreinanairtightcontainerItwillkeepforaboutamonth

EthicureanMixedSpice

10gallspiceberries2nutmegsgrated10gwholemace4gfennelseeds10gcloves4gcassia4gcardamomseeds2tspgroundcinnamon15ggranulatedsugar

Warmalltheingredientsexceptthecinnamonandsugarinaheavy-basedfryingpanuntilaverylightsmokeiscreatedandthearomasandoilsofthespicesarereleasedPlaceinaspicegrinderandblitztoafinepowderMixwiththecinnamonandsugarandthenstoreinanairtightcontainerItwillkeepforabout3months

SaltCaramel

200gcastersugar2tspflakyseasalt

Heattheovento120degCGasMarkfrac12Placeasiliconebakingmatonabakingsheetandputitintheoven(ifyoudonrsquothaveasiliconebakingmatputalayerofbakingparchmentonthetrayonceithasbeenheated)Haveasmallbowlofcoldwaterandasiliconepastrybrushattheready

Putthesugarintoameticulouslycleanfryingpanadd4tablespoonsofwaterandstiruntiltherearenodrypatchesofsugarPlaceonamedium-highheatandcookwithoutstirringThemixturewillstarttobubbleAsthetemperaturerisesthesugarwillbegintocarameliseincertainareasofthepanYoumayalsonoticeitbeginningtocrystallisearoundtheedgesofthe

panYoumayalsonoticeitbeginningtocrystallisearoundtheedgesofthepanIfleftuncheckedtheseareascancausethesyruptocrystalliseresultinginapanfullofgrainysugarcrystalsndashnotthedesiredresultTopreventthisbrushcoldwateroverthesecrystallisedpatchesontheedgesofthepanusingasiliconepastrybrushWhenthesugarbeginstocaramelisegentlyscrapethesedarkeningpatchesintothecentreofthepanusingaheatproofspatulaKeepgentlymovinganypatchesofcaramelisingsugarintoareasthatarenotcaramelisingThiswillensureanevencolourWhenthecaramelhasturnedagooddeepgoldencolour(ifyouuseasugarthermometeritwillregister178ndash180degCndashhoweveryoucankeepcheckingthetruecolourbydrippingafewdropsontoawhiteplate)pouritimmediatelyontoonesideofthesiliconematPreheatingthematmeansthatthecarameldoesnrsquotcooldownsoquicklywhenyoupouritonandthisallowsyoutotiltthebakingsheetinordertoachieveaverythinlayerofcaramelYouneedtoworkquicklyhoweverAssoonasthesugarbeginstocoolitwillstarttosetSprinkletheseasaltoverthecaramelwhileitisstillhot

Letthecaramelcooltoroomtemperaturethensnapitinto25ndash5cmshardsItshouldbebrittleWhenyoueatititshouldbecrunchyandnotsticktoyourteethKeepinanairtightcontainerinacooldryplaceforupto2weeks(caramelissusceptibletomoisturecontentandwillgoverystickyifexposedtoit)

Rhubarbsyrup

MAKESENOUGHTOFILLA700MLBOTTLE

500grhubarbwashedtrimmedandcutinto5cmpieces350gsugar

Placetherhubarbinasaucepanwith200mlcoldwaterBringtotheboilthenreducetoasimmerandcookuntilallofthejuicefromtherhubarbhasbeenextractedandtherhubarbisalmostcompletelybrokendownthiswilltakearound30minutes(pleasedonotwastethecookedrhubarbtryitwithporridgeorabowlofyoghurt)

StrainthecookedrhubarbthroughapieceofmuslinitcanbeleftforafewhoursPlacethestrainedliquidinacleansaucepanaddthesugarandbringtoasimmertodissolvethesugarforaround5minutesPourthehotliquidintoasterilisedbottleOnceopenedrefrigerateandconsumewithin2weeks

FRUITVINEGARS

Anyonewithaninterestinfoodhistoryandtheeffectcertainingredientshavehadonourcookingwouldagreethattheinventionofvinegarchangedtheculinarymapbeyond

recognitionTheoriginsofvinegardatebacktotheMiddleAgeswhenitsimportancecentredonitbeingatoolforfoodpreservation

PreservingfoodwascrucialforsurvivalparticularlyincountriespronetomoreextremeweatherVinegaralsohadthehighly

desirablequalityofbeingasubstituteforwinewhendilutedwithwaterwhichisperhapswhyRomansoldiersinsistedonitbeingpartoftheirrations(Brothwell1969pages160ndash2)AtthattimevinegarwasmanufacturedfromwinethathadgoneflatAncient

RomancookeryrecordssuchasApiciusafamousRomancollectioncompiledinthe4thor5thCenturyADmention

plentyofusesforvinegarAndsoitwasthattheimaginativelygluttonousRomansstartedusingvinegarasmuchmorethanapreservecreatingthenowcommonsaladdressingSuchwastheRomansrsquoloveofvinegarthattheymadesurethatnothingwaseatenwithoutasauceordressingTheobsessionwithvinegar

seemedtohavecarriedthroughtoElizabethantimeswhentherewereplentyofreportsoftheoverlyenthusiasticuseofvinegarinBritishcookingAfamousItaliannamedCastelvetromadea

pointofcomplainingaboutthestateofthesaladsinthiscountrywhichhefoundwereservedswimminginvinegarwithouteithersaltoroil(Wilson1973pages363ndash4)TheBritishindeedcameupwithSalamagundya17th-centurysaladinwhichvegetablesweredressedwithvinegaroilandsugar

(Wilson1973page360)

FriendsandSuppliersThissectionisdedicatedtopeoplewehavehadthepleasureofworkingwithoverthelastfewyearsmanyofwhomshareourbeliefsinsustainabilityandpreservingthethingsweenjoyforfuturegenerationsAshridgeCiderwwwashridgecidercoukAdrianBootswwwwalkthemendipscomAlbamClothingwwwalbamclothingcomAspallCiderVinegarwwwaspallcoukBarbourwwwbarbourcomBoxSteamBrewerywwwboxsteambrewerycoukBristolBeerFactorywwwbristolbeerfactorycoukBritishSaffronwwwbritishsaffroncoukCabritoGoatMeatwwwcabritogoatmeatcoukVincentCastellanorsquosCharcuteriewwwcastellanoscoukWilliamCatchesidewwwcatchesidecutlerycomChandosDeliwwwchandosdelicom

ChaseDistillerywwwchasedistillerycoukCheddarAleswwwcheddaralescoukTheCommunityFarmwwwthecommunityfarmcoukCorksofCothamwwwcorksofcomMarkCoxatBarleyWoodKitchenGardenwwwwalledgardencoukgarden1htmlCreedyCarverwwwcreedycarvercoukCrookandChurnDairy(JohnandKateHowell)ApplinsFarmBlandfordForumDorsetDT118RAJonathanCrumprsquosCheeseOrchardHouseStandishParkFarmOxlynchStonehouseGloucestershireGL103DGOtterFarm(MarkDiacono)wwwotterfarmcoukDiscoveryTortillaswwwdiscoveryfoodscoukDorsetBlueVinnywwwdorsetbluemoonfruitcomTheWatercressCompanywwwthewatercresscompanycoukEssentialTradingwwwessential-tradingcoukhomeaspxTheEthicalShellfishCompanywwwethicalshellfishcompanycoukTheExmouthMusselCompanywwwexmouthmusselscom

ExtractCoffeeRoasterswwwextractcoffeecoukFentimanswwwfentimanscomFinisterre(EthicalColdWaterSurfCompany)wwwfinisterreukcomFinisterreisacold-watersurfcompanythatthinksdifferentlyraisesquestionsaboutthesupplychainandthewayproductsaremanufacturedandbelievesthatgreatproductscanbebornofresponsiblepracticesTheirsuitskeepIaintoasty-warmontheoccasionalchancehegoesforasurfForagerwwwforagerorgukForestProducewwwforestproducecomFusselswwwfusselsfinefoodscoukTheGingerBeerPlantwwwgingerbeerplantnetGampGGoodfellowrsquoswwwgoodfshopnetGoodfellowampGoodfellowLtdaresuppliersofexclusivetablewarechefsrsquoclothingkitchenequipmentandspecialisttoolsformoleculargastronomyTheycandesignandproduceuniquetablewareproductsWethankthemfortheirsupportinprovidingsomeoftheplatesforourphotographyGransforsBrukswwwgransforscomHarkilaofScandanaviawwwharkilaukcoukSwedishclothingcompanyforgearthathaskeptJackandMatthewwarmanddryoncountlesshuntingtripsHillFarmDairy(forStawleygoatsrsquocheese)wwwhillfarmdairycouk

HobbsHouseBakerywwwhobbshousebakerycoukHomewoodCheeseswwwhomewoodcheesescoukHurstwoodFarmwwwcobnutoilcoukKeenrsquosCheddarLtdwwwkeenscheddarcoukKernowsashimiwwwkernowsashimicoukMrsKirkhamrsquoswwwmrskirkhamscomLaverstokeParkFarmwwwlaverstokeparkcoukLeCreusetwwwlecreusetcoukLongleyFarmwwwlongleyfarmcomJekkarsquosHerbFarmwwwjekkasherbfarmcomMadgettrsquosFarmwwwmadgettsfarmcoukMarkrsquosBreadwwwmarksbreadcoukMendipMomentswwwmendipmomentscoukMontezumarsquoswwwmontezumascoukMoorBeerwwwmoorbeercouk

NativeBreedsCurersandCharcutierswwwnativebreedscoukTheCornishShellfishCompanyLtdwwwcornishshellfishcoukCornish-assuredoysterstheyspecialiseinthesupplyofoystersspeciallypurifiedtoremovethethreatofnorovirusfoodpoisoningNealrsquosYardCreamerywwwnealsyardcreamerycoukNorfolkSaffronwwwnorfolksaffroncoukManorFarm(forOgleshieldcheese)wwwmontgomerycheesecoukOldTownwwwold-towncoukOliverHarveyBritishChefrsquosWhiteswwwoliverharveycoukOriginalBeanswwworiginalbeanscomOstlersCloudyCiderVinegarwwwostlerscidermillcoukPerryrsquosCiderwwwperryscidercoukPowellsofOlvestonwwwpowellsofolvestoncomPrestigeEventEquipmentHirewwwprestigehirebizRationalSelf-CookingCentrewwwrationalcombiovenscomSharphamParkwwwsharphamparkcom

SipsmithGinwwwsipsmithcomSomersetCheeseCompanywwwsomersetcheesecoukSomersetCiderBrandywwwciderbrandycoukSomersetFarmersrsquoMarketswwwsomersetfarmersmarketscoukSticheltonwwwsticheltoncoukTheStorywwwthestorygroupcoukThaliCafewwwthethalicafecoukToastwwwtoastcoukThanksToastandspecialthankstoLaraSmrtnikTrethowanrsquosDairywwwtrethowansdairycoukTruffleHunterwwwtrufflehuntercoukUltracomidawwwultracomidacoukVillageMaidwwwvillagemaidcheesecoukWestCountryWaterBuffalowwwwestcountrywaterbuffalocomWestCroftCiderwwwburnham-on-seacoukwest_croft_ciderWestcombeDairywwwwestcombedairycom

TheWildBeerCowwwwildbeercocomWildStoveswwwwildstovescoukWingsofStMaweswwwwingofstmawescoukWoottonOrganicDairywwwwootton-dairycomPaulAYoungwwwpaulayoungcouk

BibliographyBeetonIsabellaMrsBeetonrsquosBookofHouseholdManagement(CassellandCo2000edn)

BodeWilliEuropeanGastronomy(GrubStreet2000)

BrothwellDonandPatriciaFoodinAntiquity(ThamesandHudson1969)

BrownJaredandMillerAnistatiaTheMixellanyGuidetoVermouthampOtherAperitifs(Mixellany2011)

CliffordSueandKingAngelaEnglandinParticular(HodderandStoughton2006)

ConigliaroTonyDrinks(EburyPress2012)

TheCulinaryInstituteofAmericaandMigoyaFranciscoFrozenDesserts(WileyampSons2008)

DavidElizabethSummerCooking(Penguin1955)

DavidsonAlanTheOxfordCompaniontoFood(OxfordUniversityPress1999)

DowningGrahamTheDeerStalkingHandbook(Quiller2008)

Fearnley-WhittingstallHughTheRiverCottageCookbook(Collins2011)

Fearnley-WhittingstallHughTheRiverCottageMeatBook(HodderandStoughton2004)

GrigsonJaneEnglishFood(Penguin1974)

HartleyDorothyFoodinEngland(Macdonald1954)

HicksSusanTheFishCourseLondon(GuildPublishing1987)

LarousseGastronomique(Hamlyn2009)

LeithPrueandWaldergraveCarolineLeithrsquosCookeryBible(BloomsburypublishingPLC1991)

MabeyRichardFoodforFree(Collins1972)

McGeeHaroldOnFoodandCooking(HodderampStoughton2004)

McVicarJekkaJekkarsquosCompleteHerbBook(KyleCathie2009)

ParsonsBradThomasASpiritedHistoryofaClassicCure-AllwithCocktailsRecipesandFormulasBitters(TenSpeedPress2011)

PhillipsRogerMushrooms(Macmillan2006)

ReganGaryTheJoyofMixology(ClarksonPotter2003)

SegnitNikkiTheFlavourThesaurus(Bloomsbury2010)

SpryConstanceandHumeRosemaryTheConstanceSpryCookeryBook(AldinePress1956)

WilsonCAnneFoodandDrinkinBritainFromtheStoneAgetothe19thCentury(AcademyChicagoPublishers2003)

WondrichDavidImbibe(Pedigree2007)

Acknowledgements

FRIENDSANDFAMILY

TheEthicureanwouldliketothankfirstandforemostElenaWendyandPhilforbelievinginusevenwhenthiswasjustadistantdreamandfortheirhelpwithrunningTheEthicurean(veryoftenrequestedatshortnotice)AdditionallywewouldliketothankPhilandElenafortheiroutstandingmanagementoftheapplejuiceproductionWewouldalsoliketothankMarkandLindaCoxLillyTessaTricksforherenthusiasmhardworkandgreatresearchskillsCharlieTricksAndrewElderforbeinglovelycommittedandhard-workingSamLaceyandBigMikeCanningsIanandMoniqueHillmanandJosephSarahLavelleJasonIngramJaineBevanJaneMiddletonDavidEldridgeTimBatesIvortheBeeKeeperAdrianBootsCleaveNursery-AlanDownEmmaDibbenKatieChardandPaulFarrelforlendingustheirprintsBillatClayabilityHelenDowningFionaBeckettPaulWinch-FurnessBrettEllisandlastbutnotleastOchothedog(bestdog)

PaucirclawouldliketothankElenandashthisbookwouldnothaveseenthelightofdaywithoutyouYoursupportwithadminOchorsquoswalksapplepressingproofreadingandgenerationofideashasbeeninvaluabletothisprojectThanksforalwaysbelievinginmeandsupportingeverythingIdoIwouldnotbewhereIamifitwasnrsquotforyouPablondashsomeofmyhappiestmomentsandthebestchildhoodfoodmemoriesaresharedwithyouYouhavekeptmesanethroughoutthewritingofthisbookyouaremybestfriendandfavouritebrotherPoppyndashyoursmilingpresenceandrelentlessoptimismmakemefeelluckytobeinyourlifeMariondashfortakingmetoallthoserestaurantsforteachingmeaboutregionalityoffoodinMexicoforshowingmethevalueofgoodfoodandensuringatalltimesthatweatethebestmealsthatwepossiblycouldforshowingmethatfoodisworthfeelingpassionateaboutMikendashIhavenodoubtthatyouwouldhavedoneanythinginyourpowertosupportthisprojectandIknowyouwouldhavebeenproudAbueTomasitandashthereisnobettercookthanyouThemealsyoupreparedforus

TomasitandashthereisnobettercookthanyouThemealsyoupreparedforusaschildrenarecherishedmemoriesthatIholdveryclosetomyheartThankyoufortakingmetothemercadoasachilddespitemywingingManyvaluablelessonsaboutfoodwerelearntinthosetripsAbueNataliandashforcookingthosedeliciousfeastsonSundaysIwillbeeternallygratefultoyouforfillingmylifewithallthosespecialmemoriesoffamilymealsTodoslosZaratesndashSuapoyosiempremehainspiradoaconvertirenrealidadtodosmissuenosThePenningtonsespeciallyMatthewandIainwhosenaturalabilitytoproduceoutstandingfoodcontinuestodriveustoplacesweonlydreamtofbeforeThanksforyourdedicationhardworksenseofhumour(whichhaskeptourspiritsupduringdifficulttimes)andadmirablecreativityTheBevansndashfortheirunequivocalsupportandespeciallytoJackforhisrelentlessenergyandpassionforourbusinessIthinkofyouallaspartofmyfamilyNeilSiLoandAmyndashforbeingthebestfriendsthatanyonecouldeverwishforThankyouformakingmefeelhappyandsafewhenIamaroundyouIhaveenjoyedsomeofthebestmealsinmylifewithyouCorinneHenryRosieTomLiamEmilyAmyHKatieandJackiendashwecouldnothavedoneitwithoutyou

JackwouldliketothankThankyouWendyandPhilBevanforbeingthegreatestpillarsanymancouldaskforKevinandAbigailforallthelimitlessadventuresandconversationsthatultimatelyrevolvedaroundbeerandfoodElenaZarateforbeingthefifthmemberofTheEthicureanJanelsquoBaggagersquoBillyardforbeingthebeautifulinspirationtojointhetradeChloeBlackmanforbeingtalentedsupportiveanddownrightawesomeHuwRuddalforbeingagentlemanandascoundrelAlltheArleyVillainsthatbecameGwynnStreetthankyouofallyourhelpmusicfoodandtoastedseedsMarkJemmaandtheCalverfamilyforthosefirstformativefoodandboozeexperiencesAlexCueDanielSnowandtheirfamiliesforbeingwonderfulJamiePikeforyourfriendshipRichardTringandJustynBellforallthoseincredibleboozynerdycocktailconversationsToallmyfriendsthatliveinourwonderfulhomewhatanabsolutedreamTimHaywardandFireandKnivesforalwaysreplyingtomyemailshoweverobscureThankyouJackieRabaioittiyoutaughtthismanhowtotellastoryFinallycheersMatthewPenningtonforpoachingmewetbehindtheearsfromalifeof9ndash5crimeandPaucirclaandIainforbeingsuchmarvellousfriendsandcolleagues

IainwouldliketothankMichelleyourtirelesssupportthislastyearhasmeantmoretomethanIcouldeversayandIthankyouimmenselyThewritingofthisbookwouldnothavebeenpossiblewithoutyouPeterIwouldnotbewhereIamhadwenotmetWhatyoudoisphenomenalandIameternallygratefultohavethetwoofyouinmylifeTomysistersTaraandEllieBothofyouhavebeennothingbutsupportiveandlovingsincethedayIwasbornThewordlsquoprivilegedrsquodoesnrsquotevencomeclosewhentalkingaboutyouToallofthebossaiirsquosAndyArranBurgerFrithGuyImogenLaurenLoisMattyNikkiPeeeeteRobSwainandZolaSomeofthefondestmemoriesIhaveinmylifeareofbeingwithallofyouIamashappyasIcanbewhenwersquoretogetherandIloveyouallThanksforyoursupportandIdelightinthemomentwersquorenexttogetherTOClareyourfriendshiphasbeenoneofthemostmeaningfulthingsIhaveexperiencedSorrythatcommunicationcanbedistantbutknowthatyouarealwaysinmyhearthowevermanymilesseparateusThanksforoveradecadeofsupportandsmilesToRachelandallofthePerrysyourwelcomingofmeintoyourfamilywasoneofthemostsignificanteventsinmylifeYourhumblewayoflifehowcloseyouallareandhowdeliciousyourfoodwasissomethingIwillalwaysstrivetoachievethroughoutmylifelsquoThankyoursquocouldnevercomeclosetowhatIwanttosaybutthankyounonethelessItwasatrulyhappytimeformeMatthewforinvitingmetostartthisbusinesswithyouIameternallygratefulYoulikemyothersiblingsarealegendandIloveyouandtoPaucirclaandJackIloveyoubothTherearenothreepeopleIwouldratherworkthishardwithItrsquosbeenmorethanamammothundertakingbutitrsquosthebestthingwersquovedonetodateHerersquostoasuccessfulandhappybusinessDadyoursupportandabilitytomakeyourchildrensmileispraiseworthyIamgratefultohavehadyouasarolemodelandIhopetoseemoreofyouinthefutureToMumthankyouforbringingthebestfamilyintoexistenceIlovebothofyouToTobyDanandallthePumpHousecrewtoJoshHollyandallatthePonyampTrapthanksforwelcomingusnewcomersontotheBristolsceneWelookforwardtoworkingwithyouinthefutureTothegreatchefsbeforemethatwerewillingtosharetheirknowledgeyouneverceasetoinspiremeteachmeandhelpmegrowAndfinallytotheOceanThemostbeautifulthingonthisEarthandtheplacewhereIfeelmostathome

MatthewwouldliketothankIameternallygratefultothefollowingfriendswhoarethemostamazingpeopleintheworldTheZarateFamilyElenaMikePaucirclaPabloampPoppyIoweeverythingtoyoursupportandembracingmeasfamilyhomefromhomeThePenningtonFamilyJohnJaneyAngelaDavidTaraJontyEllieDanMacyLisaIainandMichelleTheBevansareonestunningfamilyWendyPhilandJackandKevinSimonWilkinsonNeilWilkinsonLoisWoodwardAmyMartinLiamKnappEmilyWallisAmyHowerskaandEmilyWrightTheArmisteadFamilyIainKeithSmithJackieChardAndrewGriffinandTerryRobertsforhelpingmeembarkonmyjourneyintoseriouslygreatfoodJuliaandPaulPilcherthefriendliestforagersandtheirsuperbmushroomhaulsMyKitchenFamilyIainRichBowmanJustynaSzumlewskaThomasParslowSophieLucyandAndyElderChefsJoshEggletonandTobyGrittenforwelcomingussoreadilyintotheBristolrestaurantsceneThankstochefswhohaveinspiredmeElenaArzakNikiSegnitHestonBlumenthalSimonRoganFergusHendersonMagnusNilssonandJonnyMillsBenjaminHoffforlsquoTheTaoofPoohampTeofPigletrsquoPaucirclaIainandJackamonumentalachievementofworkanddedicationthathastestedusallYouaremygreatestfriendsIloveyou

ThisebookiscopyrightmaterialandmustnotbecopiedreproducedtransferreddistributedleasedlicensedorpubliclyperformedorusedinanywayexceptasspecificallypermittedinwritingbythepublishersasallowedunderthetermsandconditionsunderwhichitwaspurchasedorasstrictlypermittedbyapplicablecopyrightlawAnyunauthorizeddistributionoruseofthistextmaybeadirectinfringementoftheauthorrsquosandpublisherrsquosrightsandthoseresponsiblemaybeliableinlawaccordingly

Version10

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13579108642

Publishedin2013byEburyPressanimprintofEburyPublishingARandomHouseGroupCompanyTextcopyMatthewPenningtonIainPenningtonPaucirclaZarateJackAdair-Bevan2013

PhotographycopyEburyPress2013

MatthewPenningtonIainPenningtonPaucirclaZarateandJackAdair-BevanhaveassertedtheirrighttobeidentifiedastheauthorsofthisWorkinaccordancewiththeCopyrightDesignsandPatentsAct1988

AllrightsreservedNopartofthispublicationmaybereproducedstoredinaretrievalsystemortransmittedinanyformorbyanymeanselectronicmechanicalphotocopyingrecordingorotherwisewithoutthepriorpermissionofthecopyrightownerTheRandomHouseGroupLimitedRegNo954009

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ISBN9780091949921

  • Contents
  • List of Recipes
  • About the Book
  • Title Page
  • The Ethicurean
  • Winter
    • Beetroot Carpaccio with Honeyed Walnuts
    • Duck Terrine with Cranberries and Cobnuts
    • Tandoor Scallops Celeriac Pureacutee and Pickled Rock Samphire
    • Monkfish Cheeks with Saffron Cauliflower and Aniseed
    • Roast Partridge with Bread and Cheese
    • Lambrsquos Wool
    • Janetrsquos Jungle Juice Ice with Cheddar 99 Flake
    • Rabbit Confit with Lovage Breadcrumbs
    • Confit Meats
    • Confit Tomatoes with Ruffle Basil
    • Beef Brisket Slow-roasted in Coffee Sauce with Valor Mash
    • Pigeon Breasts with Beetroot Pearl Barley and Bordelaise Sauce
    • Steamed Lemon Sole with Fondant Pink Firs Golden Beetroot and Nasturtium Remoulade
    • Sea Robin with Fennel Butter Sauce and Herbed Pink Firs
    • Pineapple Turmeric and Ginger Glazed Ham with lsquoPiccalillirsquo
    • Glazed Star Anise Carrots
    • Eccles Cakes with Dorset Blue Vinny Sauce
    • Milk Stout and Chocolate Steamed Pudding
    • Pedro Ximeacutenez and Whisky with Vermouth Smoke
    • Fennel Seed and Ginger Hot Chocolate
      • Spring
        • Nettle Soup with Caerphilly
        • St Georgersquos Mushrooms with Asparagus Ribwort Plantain Mushroom Jelly and Apple Jelly
        • Sweet-cure Mackerel with Morels Spelt Soda Bread and Horseradish
        • Asparagus with Toasted Sesame and Hollandaise Sauce
        • Clear Ham Hock Broth with Poached Eggs
        • Caerphilly and Cider Welsh Rabbit
        • Smoked Chipotle Chillies
        • Smoked Roe Deer Loin with Wild Rocket Clamped Carrots Honeyed Walnuts and Wood Sorrel
        • Curd Cheese Cucumber Flat Bean Aniseed and Sesame
        • Crab Salad with New Potatoes Pickled Carrot and Smoked Paprika Mayonnaise
        • Spring Radishes with Anchovy Cregraveme Fraiche
        • Trout with Kelp and Shiitake Mushroom Stock Rice Flat Beans and Sea Kale
        • Goat Meatballs Mash Lovage Butter and Mustard Greens
        • Ox Tongue with Swede Parsley and Cider Vinegar
        • Ox Tongue with Cauliflower Gilliflower and Hazelnuts
        • Salt Marsh Lamb with Tidal Greens
        • Steamed Rabbit Pudding
        • Pork Juniper and Black IPA Pie
        • Pearl Barley with Old Demdike and St Georgersquos Mushroom
        • Rhubarb and Custard
        • Chocolate and Salt Caramel Brownies with Cherry and Elderflower Sauce
        • Elderflower syrup
        • Strawberry and Rose Lemonade Pudding with Saffron and Cider Brandy Custard
        • The Ethicurean Vermouth Botanicals
        • Vermouth
        • Rose Lemonade
        • The Ethicurean Cocktail
        • Negroni
          • Summer
            • Figs Wrapped in Pork Belly with Lavender and Buffalo Mozzarella
            • Caramelised Chicory Labneh and Macerated Strawberry Salad
            • Roasted Tomato and Liquorice Basil Soup
            • Roasted Courgette and Cobnut Soup with Labneh and Ginger Turmeric and Mint Dressing
            • Soused Mackerel Carrot Fennel and Saffron with Gooseberry and Mint Granita
            • Chilled Beetroot Soup Par-cel Walnut Ice Cream and Roasted Cobnut Oil
            • Ewersquos-curd-stuffed Courgette Flowers with Fennel Sherbet
            • Globe Artichokes with Hollandaise Sauce and Sumac
            • Pea Goat Bacon and Lovage Broth
            • Scallops in Puff Pastry with Vermouth and Fennel Cream
            • Pickled Pollack with Flame-roasted Peppers Cucumber Pul Biber Chilli and Water Mint
            • Dorset Blue Vinny and Flame-roasted Peppers with Charred Little Gem
            • John Dory with Morel Mushrooms Flat Beans Haricot Beans and Ham Hock Stock
            • Mussels in Cider with Tarragon
            • Steamed Megrim Sole with Rock Samphire and Sumac-braised Fennel
            • Pickled rock samphire
            • Water Buffalo Fillet with Clear Chicken Stock Tarragon and Salt-baked Baby Beets
            • Barbecued Horse Mackerel with Cobnut Salbitxada Sauce
            • Fennel and Sumac Gravad Trout
            • White Raspberry Loganberry and Ewersquos Yoghurt Terrine with Sweet Cicely Confit
            • Elderflower Sorbet with Fennel Sherbet and Wild Strawberries
            • Pineapple Weed Jelly
            • Elderflower and Lavender Marshmallows
            • Spiced Ginger Beer
            • Summer Elder
            • Raw Rhubarb Smash
            • Double Sloe Gin and Tonic
              • Autumn
                • Goat Bacon with Ox Tongue Nasturtiums and Clarified Ham Broth
                • Wild Mushrooms with Sourdough Toast and Thyme Stichelton Cregraveme Fraicircche
                • Wild Mushroom and Spelt Pressed Terrine with Spinach and Rainbow Chard
                • Swedish Knaumlckebroumld with Cottage Cheese Pickled Beetroot Caraway Beetroot Crisps and Tom Thumb Lettuce
                • Roast Crown Prince Soup with Tandoori Spice Walnut Oil and Crisp Sage Leaves
                • Salt-baked Celeriac Portobello Mushroom and Apple Soup
                • Deep-fried Aubergine with Rose Hip Syrup
                • Pear Native Nape Hazelnut Cardamom and Ewersquos Cheese Salad
                • Preserved Duck Leg Chorizo Butter Bean and Confit Tomato Pot Stew with Yin Yang Beans
                • Wood Pigeon Breasts with Persian Spiced Bulgar Wheat Cucumber Aniseed and Black Cabbage
                • Chicken Mole
                • Venison Cider and Quince Stew with Herbed Butter Dumplings
                • Fish Soup with Spiced Heritage Tomatoes Fennel Seed and English Truffle Oil Toast
                • Slow-braised Goatrsquos Leg with Cider Shallots Lentils and Glazed Carrots
                • Pheasant Kiev with Winter Tarragon and Strawberry Myrtle
                • Rare Roast Sirloin of Beef with Bordelaise Sauce Black Cabbage and Truffle Cauliflower
                • Almond Pear Cardamom and Chocolate Cake
                • Sea Buckthorn Sorbet with Apple and Vanilla Pureacutee Toffee Apple and Caramel Lemon Balm
                • Beetroot Apple and Cobnut Crumble with Roasted White Chocolate Spoom
                • Simple syrups for sorbets and spooms
                • Spoom
                • Roasted White Chocolate Spoom
                • Cherry Spoom
                • Italian Meringue
                • Lordrsquos Lovage
                • Apple Flip
                • The Orchard at Barley Wood
                • Salsify and Ogle Shield Gratin
                • Vincent Castellanorsquos Venison Chorizo
                  • Basics
                  • List of Suppliers
                  • Bibliography
                  • Acknowledgements
                  • Copyright
Page 5: The Ethicurean Cookbook: Recipes, Foods and Spirituous Liquors, from Our Bounteous Walled Gardens in the Several Seasons of the Year

PineappleWeedJellyElderflowerandLavenderMarshmallowsSpicedGingerBeerSummerElderRawRhubarbSmashDoubleSloeGinandTonic

Autumn

GoatBaconwithOxTongueNasturtiumsandClarifiedHamBroth

WildMushroomswithSourdoughToastandThymeSticheltonCregravemeFraicircche

WildMushroomandSpeltPressedTerrinewithSpinachandRainbowChard

SwedishKnaumlckebroumldwithCottageCheesePickledBeetrootCarawayBeetrootCrispsandTomThumbLettuce

RoastCrownPrinceSoupwithTandooriSpiceWalnutOilandCrispSageLeaves

Salt-bakedCeleriacPortobelloMushroomandAppleSoupDeep-friedAuberginewithRoseHipSyrupPearNativeNapeHazelnutCardamomandEwersquosCheeseSalad

PreservedDuckLegChorizoButterBeanandConfitTomatoPotStewwithYinYangBeans

WoodPigeonBreastswithPersianSpicedBulgarWheatCucumberAniseedandBlackCabbage

ChickenMoleVenisonCiderandQuinceStewwithHerbedButterDumplings

FishSoupwithSpicedHeritageTomatoesFennelSeedandEnglishTruffleOilToast

Slow-braisedGoatrsquosLegwithCiderShallotsLentilsandGlazedCarrots

PheasantKievwithWinterTarragonandStrawberryMyrtleRareRoastSirloinofBeefwithBordelaiseSauceBlackCabbageandTruffleCauliflower

AlmondPearCardamomandChocolateCakeSeaBuckthornSorbetwithAppleandVanillaPureacuteeToffeeAppleandCaramelLemonBalm

BeetrootAppleandCobnutCrumblewithRoastedWhiteChocolateSpoom

SimplesyrupsforsorbetsandspoomsSpoomRoastedWhiteChocolateSpoomCherrySpoomItalianMeringueLordrsquosLovageAppleFlipTheOrchardatBarleyWoodSalsifyandOgleShieldGratinVincentCastellanorsquosVenisonChorizo

Basics

Listofsuppliers

BibliographyAcknowledgementsCopyright

ListofRecipesAlmondPearCardamomandChocolateCakeAppleFlipAsparaguswithToastedSesameandHollandaiseSauceBarbecuedHorseMackerelwithCobnutSalbitxadaSauceBeefBrisketSlow-roastedinCoffeeSaucewithValorMashBeetrootCarpacciowithHoneyedWalnutsBeetrootAppleandCobnutCrumblewithRoastedWhiteChocolateSpoomCaerphillyandCiderWelshRabbitCaramelisedChicoryLabnehandMaceratedStrawberrySaladCherrySpoomChickenMoleChilledBeetrootSoupPar-celWalnutIceCreamandRoastedCobnutOil

ChocolateandSaltCaramelBrownieswithCherryandElderflowerSauce

ClearHamHockBrothwithPoachedEggsConfitMeatsConfitTomatoeswithRuffleBasilCrabSaladwithNewPotatoesPickledCarrotandSmokedPaprikaMayonnaise

CurdCheeseCucumberFlatBeanAniseedandSesameDeep-friedAuberginewithRoseHipSyrup

DorsetBlueVinnyandFlame-roastedPepperswithCharredLittleGem

DoubleSloeGinandTonicDuckTerrinewithCranberriesandCobnutsEcclesCakeswithDorsetBlueVinnySauceElderflowerandLavenderMarshmallowsElderflowerSorbetwithFennelSherbetandWildStrawberriesElderflowersyrupEwersquos-curd-stuffedCourgetteFlowerswithFennelSherbetFennelandSumacGravadTroutFennelSeedandGingerHotChocolateFigsWrappedinPorkBellywithLavenderandBuffaloMozzarellaFishSoupwithSpicedHeritageTomatoesFennelSeedandEnglishTruffleOilToastGlazedStarAniseCarrotsGlobeArtichokeswithHollandaiseSauceandSumacGoatBaconwithOxTongueNasturtiumsandClarifiedHamBroth

GoatMeatballsMashLovageButterandMustardGreensItalianMeringueJanetrsquosJungleJuiceIcewithCheddar99FlakeJohnDorywithMorelMushroomsFlatBeansHaricotBeansandHamHockStockLambrsquosWoolLordrsquosLovageMilkStoutandChocolateSteamedPudding

MonkfishCheekswithSaffronCauliflowerandAniseedMusselsinCiderwithTarragonNegroniNettleSoupwithCaerphillyOxTonguewithCauliflowerGilliflowerandHazelnutsOxTonguewithSwedeParsleyandCiderVinegarPeaGoatBaconandLovageBrothPearNativeNapeHazelnutCardamomandEwersquosCheeseSaladPearlBarleywithOldDemdikeandStGeorgersquosMushroomPedroXimeacutenezandWhiskywithVermouthSmokePheasantKievwithWinterTarragonandStrawberryMyrtlePickledPollackwithFlame-roastedPeppersCucumberPulBiberChilliandWaterMint

PickledrocksamphirePigeonBreastswithBeetrootPearlBarleyandBordelaiseSaucePineappleWeedJellyPineappleTurmericandGingerGlazedHamwithlsquoPiccalillirsquoPorkJuniperandBlackIPAPiePreservedDuckLegChorizoButterBeanandConfitTomatoPotStewwithYinYangBeansRabbitConfitwithLovageBreadcrumbsRareRoastSirloinofBeefwithBordelaiseSauceBlackCabbageandTruffleCauliflower

RawRhubarbSmashRhubarbandCustardRoastCrownPrinceSoupwithTandooriSpiceWalnutOiland

CrispSageLeavesRoastPartridgewithBreadandCheeseRoastedCourgetteandCobnutSoupwithLabnehandGingerTurmericandMintDressing

RoastedTomatoandLiquoriceBasilSoupRoastedWhiteChocolateSpoomRoseLemonadeSalsifyandOgleShieldGratinSaltMarshLambwithTidalGreensSalt-bakedCeleriacPortobelloMushroomandAppleSoupScallopsinPuffPastrywithVermouthandFennelCreamSeaBuckthornSorbetwithAppleandVanillaPureacuteeToffeeAppleandCaramelLemonBalm

SeaRobinwithFennelButterSauceandHerbedPinkFirsSimplesyrupsforsorbetsandspoomsSlow-braisedGoatrsquosLegwithCiderShallotsLentilsandGlazedCarrots

SmokedChipotleChilliesSmokedRoeDeerLoinwithWildRocketClampedCarrotsHoneyedWalnutsandWoodSorrel

SousedMackerelCarrotFennelandSaffronwithGooseberryandMintGranita

SpicedGingerBeerSpoomSpringRadisheswithAnchovyCregravemeFraiche

StGeorgersquosMushroomswithAsparagusRibwortPlantainMushroomJellyandAppleJelly

SteamedLemonSolewithFondantPinkFirsGoldenBeetrootandNasturtiumRemoulade

SteamedMegrimSolewithRockSamphireandSumac-braisedFennel

SteamedRabbitPuddingStrawberryandRoseLemonadePuddingwithSaffronandCiderBrandyCustard

SummerElderSwedishKnaumlckebroumldwithCottageCheesePickledBeetrootCarawayBeetrootCrispsandTomThumbLettuce

Sweet-cureMackerelwithMorelsSpeltSodaBreadandHorseradishTandoorScallopsCeleriacPureacuteeandPickledRockSamphireTheEthicureanCocktailTheEthicureanVermouthBotanicalsTheOrchardatBarleyWoodTroutwithKelpandShiitakeMushroomStockRiceFlatBeansandSeaKaleVenisonCiderandQuinceStewwithHerbedButterDumplingsVermouthVincentCastellanorsquosVenisonChorizoWaterBuffaloFilletwithClearChickenStockTarragonandSalt-bakedBabyBeets

WhiteRaspberryLoganberryandEwersquosYoghurtTerrinewithSweetCicelyConfit

WildMushroomandSpeltPressedTerrinewithSpinachandRainbowChard

WildMushroomswithSourdoughToastandThymeSticheltonCregravemeFraicircche

WoodPigeonBreastswithPersianSpicedBulgarWheatCucumberAniseedandBlackCabbage

AbouttheBookTheEthicureanphilosophyissimpleeatlocalcelebratenativefoodslivewell

TheEthicureanisquietlychangingthefaceofmodernBritishcookingndashallfromawalledgardenintheheartoftheMendipHillsTheEthicureanCookbookfollowsayearintheirmagnificentkitchenandgardenndashandcelebratesthegreatestfooddrinkandtraditionsofthisfairland

ThecombinationsareelectriccuredroedeerflirtswithwoodsorrelandforagednettlesoupisfortifiedbyayoungCaerphillyHoneyedwalnutsnestleamongstbeetrootcarpacciorichcurdcheeseisbalancedbydelicatecucumberAndthecomfortofpiesandpudndashporkandjuniperpieEcclescakeswithDorsetBlueVinnyndashisenhancedbytheapplejuiceciderandbeerpouredinequalmeasure

With120recipesandayearofseasonalinspirationinphotographsandwordsEthicureanismisanewBritishcookingmanifesto

TheEthicureansareJackAdair-BevanPaucirclaZarateMatthewPenningtonandIainPennington

AbovelefttorightJackMatthewOchoPaucirclaandIain

CookrsquosNotesAllvegetablesarepeeledunlessotherwisespecifiedAlleggsaremediumfree-rangeButterisunsaltedunlessotherwisespecified

ethicureanadjthepursuitoffine-tastingfoodwhilebeingmindfuloftheeffectofonersquosfoodproductionandconsumptionontheenvironment

TheEthicureansitsbelowanovergrownGeorgianestatesometimehauntofWordsworthandColeridgeItsgardensarealabyrinthofrosespergolasandchippedstatuesTherestaurantandkitchenarehousedintwooftheoriginalglasshouseswithinBarleyWoodWalledGardenbuiltforHenryHerbertWillsoftheImperialTobaccoCompanyin1901ThiswastheyearinwhichQueenVictoriatookherfinalbreathOurWalledGardenisfilledwithneatrowsofcabbagesandespaliersofgreengagesandapricotsHundred-year-oldvineshavebulliedtheirwaythroughasmallbrickholeinoneoftheglasshousesCamberedred-brickpathsframeapatchworkgardenofcannellinibeansmarchingTomThumbandaquiltedstatisThegardeniscutinhalfbyayew-linedcorridorinspringlavendergrowsatjusttherightheighttotearoffsmallhandfulsaswewalkupfromthelowerorchardInsummerthepurplemassgiveswaytocampanuladayliliesandhundredsofasterMarkthegardenerbringsustrugsofvegetableseachmorningandthestarchedwhiteflashofachefrsquostuniccanbeseenaroundtheherbbordersjustbeforelunch

BritishseasonalityethicalsourcingofingredientsandattentiontothelocalenvironmentarethefoundationsofourbusinessWearefourfriendsJackAdair-BevanPaucirclaZarateandMatthewandIainPenningtonBetweenuswehaveoverlappingareasofexpertisethatrangefromthepracticalandorganisationalknowledgeneededtorunabusinesstothescienceofcookingandthewildfoodthatgrowsoutsidethewallsofourrestaurantWeareself-taughtandwanttoofferanapproachtoBritishfoodthatisneitherexclusivenorisolatingandonethatisfundamentallyaboutsharingknowledgeandpassion

Sustainabilityhasbecomeabuzzwordinrecentyearsandallanybodycan

SustainabilityhasbecomeabuzzwordinrecentyearsandallanybodycaneverdoisworktowardsamoresustainablewayoflifendashweEthicureansaredoingourbestWetookovertherestaurantin2010overfivedayswecompletedarefitwiththehelpofourfamilyandfriendsknockingdownwallsredecoratingandpausingonlytotakeadecentlunchandsupperonthelongtablesoverlookingtheWringtonValeOnthesixthdayweopenedforbusinessandbeganafullappleseasonpickingpulpingandjuicingWestartedresearchingtheseventyvarietiesofapplethatwenowhadtolookafterinourtwoorchards

FoodandthenarrativesurroundingitisinaconstantstateofevolutionitispoliticalartisticandcompletelydeliciousTheMendipsinSomersetthehomeofTheEthicureanisaplaceonthevergeofsomethingincredibleArtisansfromacrossthecountryaremovingtheirproductionhereCommunityfarmsorchardsandcollaborationsarepoppingupacrossthecountyWearewatchingdaybydayasourfriendscustomersandsuppliersarere-establishingandstrengtheningtheirruralcommunitiesandtakingcontroloftheirfoodproductionWeareseeingandenjoyingtherediscoveryofoldtechniquesandadaptationsforthefuture

FromouropeningdaywechangedourmenuonadailybasisaccordingtowhatwasavailablewecontinuetocelebrateeverysingledayoftheBritishseasonInthisbookwehaverecordednotonlyrecipesbutourrelationshipswithourproducersourlandourlivesandourhistoryndashallofwhichareintricatelyconnectedwiththefoodweeat

Werarelyleavethisbeautifulwalledgardenitisanabsoluteparadise

RecipeList

BeetrootCarpacciowithHoneyedWalnutsDuckTerrinewithCranberriesandCobnuts

TandoorScallopsCeleriacPureacuteeandPickledRockSamphireMonkfishCheekswithSaffronCauliflowerandAniseed

RoastPartridgewithBreadandCheeseLambrsquosWool

JanetrsquosJungleJuiceIcewithCheddar99FlakeRabbitConfitwithLovageBreadcrumbs

ConfitMeatsConfitTomatoeswithRuffleBasil

BeefBrisketSlow-roastedinCoffeeSaucewithValorMashPigeonBreastswithBeetrootPearlBarleyandBordelaiseSauceSteamedLemonSolewithFondantPinkFirsGoldenBeetroot

andNasturtiumRemouladeSeaRobinwithFennelButterSauceandHerbedPinkFirs

PineappleTurmericandGingerGlazedHamwithlsquoPiccalillirsquoGlazedStarAniseCarrots

EcclesCakeswithDorsetBlueVinnySauceMilkStoutandChocolateSteamedPudding

PedroXimeacutenezandWhiskywithVermouthSmokeFennelSeedandGingerHotChocolate

THEREAREACOUPLEofspecialrequirementsfortheWalledGardeninwinterndashfirstalightertodefrostthepadlocksandsecondlyagoodtorchforeveningtripsaroundthegardenunlessthereisafullmoonFrostsintheWringtonValearespectacularTheairhoarthatdecoratesthetreescreatesalandscapethatismoreakintoSiberiathanSomersetInanearly-morningdriftingfogtheviewfromtheglasshouseisdivineDuringourfirstyearatBarleyWoodwehadheavysnowandseveralhoarfrostsandthepathwaythroughthecentreofthegardenlayunderagoodthreeinchesofsnowJackclippedonhisskisandarmedwithtwobamboocanespinchedfromMarkrsquosbeansmanagedtoskirightthroughitMorningtripstothecompostheapatthebottomorchardthereserveoftheluckiestinsummerbecomeatasktobeavoidedbyallofus

ByearlyDecemberwetrytofinishpressingthelastoftheseasonrsquosapplesasworkingintheicyciderbarnisharshElenaPaucirclarsquosmumandPhilJackrsquosdadruntheapplebusinessBothareusedtowarmerclimatesndashMexicoandtheGulfrespectivelyYoursquollfindtheminthebarnclothedinmultiplelayersdebatingwhichvarietiesofapplestoblendTheirfridgesathomeareburstingwithlabelledspecimensTydemanrsquosLateOrangesitsnexttoReverendJamesTheseasonrsquoslastpressingsrequirejugglingthefinalfewtrugsofsweetvarietieswiththelatercookerssuchastheinfamousBramleyandthecloud-texturedBlenheimOrange

Thecoldweatheractsasagentleprodtowardsmorefull-bodiedbutteryfoodanddrinkByDecembercalorificcautionisthrownasideaswemarchtowardstheinevitablefeastandbyChristmaswearetrottingfull-belliedtowardsabsolutegluttonyPartridgesaresynonymouswiththistimeofyearweallknowthesongTheseplumpbirdsvirtuallyflyoutofthekitchenroastedandglazedwithacoatofhawthornjellywithitswild-fruittartness

WinterisachancetodeployallofthosechutneysjamspicklesjelliesliqueursinfusedginsbeerscidersandwinesthathavebeensquirrelledawayduringseasonalglutsItrsquosatimeforexperimentssweetconcoctionssuchasmembrillo-infusedvodkaandvanillaandespressobeanrumOurWalledGardenapricotjamandblackcardamomvodkaatriumphofadrinkwasthesweetproductofabitterdayinJanuary

FromtheNewYearwhileeveryoneelsedetoxesexercisesanddietsinacloudofresolveandperspirationwearepreparingthebiggesteventinourcalendarourannualWassailForustheWassailisafestivalfixduringthecruellestpartofwinterWefeelwehaverecapturedalostpartofourcountryrsquosheritageandrichlyupdateditOnthiscoldeveningweneverfailtoenjoythemagicalritualsofeatingdrinkingandworkingtogether

BytheendofJanuarywearetheonespayingpenanceforouralcoholconsumptionandexcessWorkbeginsorrathercontinuesafteralittlebreakAllthefruittreesareprunedthedividinghedgesthatarematureandreadyforlayingareconfrontedwithbillhooksandaxestheformidablehedgeoutsideourciderbarnisduetobelaidnextyearWeareluckytohavetheoldesthedgingsocietyinthecountrytheWringtonandBurringtonwhichwasformedaftertheEnclosuresActcameintoforceintheearly1800sItstillmeetsregularlyjustdowntheroadTherearedistinctivestylesofhedge-layingthatvaryfromregiontoregionEachstyleisspecifictothelocalclimateandthetypesoftreesandshrubsthatwillgrowinlocalsoilTheareaaroundtheWalledGardenisahedge-layingstrongholdalthoughwesuspectfewpeoplewillhaveheardofourlocalcelebrityUncleFrankahedge-layinglegendfromButcombeAllthemaintenancehastotakeplacebeforethebirdsestablishtheirnestsA

maintenancehastotakeplacebeforethebirdsestablishtheirnestsAcarefullyselectedmixofshrubsandtreeswellplantedwillyieldenoughfruittofeedplentyofhungryhumansandbirdsThehedgeframedinthegiantdoorwaytoourciderbarnreadslikeaninventoryofourlarderatTheEthicureanhawthornsloeswilddamsonsrosehipscrabappleshazelandcobnutsBeforeourresidentrobinhastimetosingforamateandbuildanesttheyewhedgesareclippedofferinganearlyreminderofthegardenrsquoscyclicalorderedstyleandtheimminentarrivalofspring

BeetrootCarpacciowithHoneyedWalnuts

WinterisatestingtimeforeventhemosthardenedproponentofseasonalityAnanonymoussighcansometimesbeheardinthekitchenwhenMarkthegardenercomesinwithyetanotherbasketofbeetrootTheaudaciouspink-and-white-stripedChioggiathecommonredDetroitandtheunimaginativelynamedgoldenbeetrootarefrequentvisitorstoTheEthicureankitchenatthistimeofyearHoweverthechefsrelishtheopportunitytocreateanoriginaldishThis

oneisourplayontheclassicbeefcarpaccioReminiscentofastained-glasswindowitcelebratesthedistinctivetasteofeachofthebeetrootvarietiesthatgrowonourdoorstepFlavourandspiceintertwinewithvibrantsplashesofcolourbrighteningamonochromaticwintryday

SERVES43beetroottoppedandtailed300mlredwinevinegar120gcastersugar1clove3staranise12blackpeppercornsasmallpieceofcinnamonstickahandfulofwintersaladleaves(wesuggestamixtureofmizunawinterpurslanelandcressandrocket)flakyseasaltandblackpepper

FORTHEHONEYEDWALNUTS

frac12tspbutter25gwalnuts1tsprunnyhoney

PutthebeetrootinapanwiththevinegarandhalfthesugarPouroverenoughcoldwatertocoverthebeetrootcompletelythenaddthespicesandbringtotheboilCoverwithalidandcookgentlyforabout40minutesoruntilthereisonlyaslightresistancewhenyouinsertthetipofaknifeinthebeetrootMeanwhilepreparethewalnutsMeltthebutterinasmallpanaddthewalnutsandfryoveramedium-highheatuntillightlycolouredAddthehoneyandtossuntilthewalnutsareevenlycoatedDecantfromthepanintoacooldish

DrainthecookedbeetrootkeepinghalfofthecookingliquorandcoolthemundercoldrunningwaterPourthesavedcookingliquorintoacleanpanandaddtheremainingsugarandapinchofsaltBoiloverahighheatuntilithasreducedbythree-quartersitshouldhaveathicksyrupyconsistencyRemovefromtheheatandleavetocool

PeelthebeetrootandcutthemintoquartersUsingamandolineslicethemwaferthinIfyoudonothaveamandolineputthequarteredbeetrootflat-sidedownandslicelengthwaysasthinlyaspossiblewithaverysharpknife

Toservethecarpaccioarrangethebeetrooton4servingplatesthendrizzleoverthesyrupyliquorAddasprinklingofseasaltandfreshlycrackedblackpepperthenscatterthehoneyedwalnutsandthesaladleavesontop

DuckTerrinewithCranberriesandCobnuts

WeuseAylesbury-crossducksfromMadgettrsquosFarmtomakethisterrineItwasthroughfarmersrsquomarketsthatwebecameawareofthecommendableworkMadgettrsquoshasbeendoingforyearsSituatednearChepstowitwasoriginallyadairyandbeefcattlefarm(andwasevenmentionedintheDomesdayBook)butoverthepastdecadethepoultrybusinesshastakenoffLikeothergreatfamilybusinessestheycaredeeplyaboutwhattheydowhichofcourseisreflectedinthequalityoftheirproduceThisisaveryversatilerecipeandyoucouldeasilysubstitutechickenor

goosefortheduckCarefulweighingoftheingredientsiskeyasyouneedtocompressthemevenlyintothemouldsTheterrinesneedanightintherefrigeratorbeforeservingTheywill

keepwellforseveraldaysbecausetheyaresealedbythegoosefatYouprobablywonrsquotneedtobutteryourtoastbeforeliberallyapplyingtheterrinendashalthoughitisprettytastyifyoudo

MAKES4SMALLTERRINES

210ggoosefat1tspsalt1tspgroundwhitepepperfrac12tspgroundstaranise465gskinnedduckbreastroughlydiced60gdriedcobnuts(orhazelnuts)lightlycrushed60gdriedcranberriessoakedinciderfor30minutesthendrained135gblackcabbage(cavolonero)coarselychoppedandthenblanchedinboilingsaltedwateruntiljusttender(optional)seasaltandblackpepper

Putthegoosefatinaheavy-basedpanoveralowheatuntilmeltedthenaddthesaltpepperandstaranisePlacethedicedduckbreastinthefatandcoverthemixturewithacircleofbakingparchmentCookoveraverylowheatfor30ndash45minutesuntiltheduckiscookedbutstillslightlypinkinside(ameatthermometershouldregister74degCthoughwecookoursto55ndash60degC)Removefromtheheatandleavetocoolatroomtemperature

Takethebreastmeatoutofthecooledgoosefatandputitinabowl(Youcanpourthefatoffthecookingliquorfromtheduckstraintheliquorand

canpourthefatoffthecookingliquorfromtheduckstraintheliquoranduseittoaddflavourtootherdishes)AddthenutsdrainedcranberriesandthecabbageifusingandseasonwellLinefour150mlramekinswithclingfilmandputtheminadishtocatchanyspillagesDividetheduckmixturebetweenthemitshouldcomeslightlyabovetherimsPouroverenoughofthecookingfattofillthegapsallowingittosinkinbeforecheckingthelevelagainCovereachterrinewithclingfilmandthenspikeitwithaknifetipsotheextrafatcanrunawayastheterrineschillPlaceachoppingboardontopandweightdownwith4heavytinsLeaveinthefridgeovernight

Beforeservingdiptheramekinsinhotwaterforabout30secondstoloosentheterrinesandthenturnthemoutontoaboardLeavetocometoroomtemperaturesoalittleofthefatmeltsawaythentransferthemtoservingplatesServewithtoastedsourdoughandRowanJelly(seehere)ifliked

daggerItisreassuringtoknowthatthegreatMrsBeetonwouldhaveapprovedofourchoiceofbreedInherBookofHouseholdManagementshewriteslsquoTheWhiteAylesburyduckisanddeservedlyauniversalfavouriteItssnowyplumageandcomfortablecomportmentmakeitacredittothepoultry-yardwhileitsbroadanddeepbreastanditsamplebackconveytheassurancethatyoursatisfactionwillnotceaseatitsdeathhellipthismemberoftheduckfamilyisbredonanextensivescalehellipintheabodesofthecottagersRoundthewallsoftheliving-roomsandofthebedroomevenarefixedrowsofwoodenboxeslinedwithhayanditisthebusinessofthewifeandchildrentonurseandcomfortthefeatheredlodgerstofeedthelittleducklingsandtotaketheoldonesoutforanairingThisinspiringextractservesasreminderoftheimportanceoffoodprovenanceinVictoriantimeswhenamealwasafamilyprocessthatstretchedbeyondsittingaroundatable

TandoorScallopsCeleriacPureacuteeandPickledRockSamphire

ScallopsareprizedfortheirsweetnesswhichcomesfromthewhitemeatanabductormusclethatcontainsveryhighlevelsofmildlysweetaminoacidWheneatenfreshthetasteisreminiscentofseaweedYoushouldbeabletoorderhand-divedscallopsfromagoodfishmongerInthisdishtheirsweetnuttinessiscomplementedbytheuseofceleriacndashasavouryearthyelementgivenmoregrandeurbybeingpureeedwitharichchickenstockTheflavourisheightenedwithtandoorspicesandpungentIndonesianlongpepperwhichaddthefinalelementstothisfantasticandrelativelysimple

pepperwhichaddthefinalelementstothisfantasticandrelativelysimplestarterSamphireandthesaladleafredfrillworkwelltogetherontheplateforreasonsofbothaestheticsandtastendashthetwoingredientsalmostmirroreachotherandconjureupanimageofthemarinebedIfyouwouldliketoservethescalloproespoachthemfor2minutesinalittlevegetablestockpriortoserving

SERVES416diver-caughtscallopsorangeroesremoved1ndash2tbsprapeseedorvegetableoilahandfulofPickledRockSamphire(seehere)ahandfulofredfrill(orotherwintersaladleaves)apinchoftandoorispicemixapinchofIndonesianlongpepperseasalt

FORTHECELERIACPUREacuteE

350gceleriacpeeledandcutinto1cmcubes95mlbrownchickenstock(seehere)80mlcregravemefraicircchefrac14nutmeg

FirstpreparetheceleriacChooseapanlargeenoughtoholdasteamingbasketandhalffillitwithcoldwaterGratethenutmegintothewaterandbringtotheboilPuttheceleriacinthesteamingbasketandsetitoverthepanCoverandsteamuntiltheceleriacisverysoftTransfertoablenderorfoodprocessoraddthechickenstockandcregravemefraicirccheandblitzuntilsmoothscrapingdownthesidesasneeded(Foranextrasmoothconsistencystrainthepureacuteethroughafinesieveafterblending)Seasonwithsalttotasteandreheatgentlyinapan

SeasonthescallopslightlywithseasaltSetalargeheavy-basedfryingpanoverahighheatforaminuteortwoAddathinfilmofrapeseedorvegetableoiltothehotpanitshouldbegintosmokeverylightlyAddthescallopstothepanoneatatimestartingfromtheoutsideandworkinginaclockwisedirectionspirallingtowardsthecentreBythetimeyouhaveputinyourlastscallopitwillmostlikelybetimetoturnthefirstAninviting

inyourlastscallopitwillmostlikelybetimetoturnthefirstAninvitinggoldencrustshouldhaveformedontheundersideIfitisstillalittlepaleleaveforafurther30secondsTurnoverallthescallopsinorderfollowingtheclockwisespiralyoumadeWhenyoureachthecentrereturntothebeginningandtakeoutthescallopsinordercheckingthattheundersidehascolouredtooSetasidetorestonawarmplate

PlaceaspoonfulofceleriacpureacuteeoneachservingplatePlace4scallopsontopofthepureacuteethendecoratewiththepickledrocksamphireredfrillalightdustingoftandoorispiceandasmallpinchoflongpepper

SCALLOPS

AswewritethesustainableandenvironmentallybenignpracticeofdivingforscallopsisunderthreatfromEuropeanlegislationInanattempttocontrolthetoxinlevelsofscallopstheEUhassettheselevelsextremelylowThismeansthatthetestcanonlybepassedifthescallopisshuckedpriortosaleandthisishavingaseriousimpactonthelivelihoodofdiversifnottheentiredivedscallopindustryTrawlingforscallopsdiscardingtheshellsandthepartsdeemedunfitthenfreezingthemeatandroeishigh-volumestuffScallopdiverscannotkeepupItrsquosadoublewhammyandthesnappingandclosingshellofalivescalloponceahallmarkofcarefulfishingisfastdisappearing

TheresultisthatscallopsarenowmorelikelytobefishedbydredgetrawlingwhichistheequivalentofploughingaredtractorthroughaJapanesepeacegardenScallopdiverswitnesstheseabedatfirsthandTheyproactivelymovescallopsndashmostimportantlytheyoungspecimensndashfromthepathsoftrawlerstolsquochuckypatchesrsquoThesearesafeareaswheretheconditionsarebetterforthemtoflourishastheyareallowedtospawnenoughtimesbeforetheyareharvestedThismethodoffishingisfundamentalinallowingstockstobereplenishedforthefutureGuyGrieveandhisfamilychosethetranquilandimmaculately

GuyGrieveandhisfamilychosethetranquilandimmaculatelycleanwatersoftheIsleofMulltosetupasustainableshellfishcompanyItpledgestosupportfishermenwhousesustainablemethodsinthehopethattheycancontributetowardstherecoveryofourseasTheawardsrollinforthiscompanyandwearepleasedtobeinsupport

MONKFISH

MonkfisharegreatmastersofdisguiseTheirenormousslimyheadandbodyserveaseffectivecamouflageontheseabedLookingakintoarocktheyattractpreythroughtheuseofadanglinglurefromtheheadThisabilitytoblendintotheirsurroundingscoupledwiththeirdistinctlackofgoodlooksmeantthattheywerenotpopularforeatingenablingthemtothriveinBritishwatersformanyyearsEventuallytheirsuperb-tastingmeatwasdiscoveredbyhungryhumanswhichsadlyresultedinfisheriesadoptingbeam-trawlingmethodstomeetthehighdemandInevitablythisledtoadeclineinnumbersThespeciesisnowrecoveringbutwewouldstillrecommendthatyousourcethemfromfishmongerssupportingsustainablefishingmethods

MonkfishCheekswithSaffronCauliflowerandAniseed

ThismagnificentdishcontainssomeveryfragrantspicesthattogethercreateasymphonyofflavoursWearefortunatetobeabletobuymonkfishcheeksdirectfromthefishermenviaKernowsashimiafishingcompanyinCornwallThisistheonlywaywecanguaranteethatourfishareeither

CornwallThisistheonlywaywecanguaranteethatourfishareeitherline-caughtorfromstaticnetsKernowsashimirsquosfleetdoesnotdredge-netanyofitscatchaprocessthatisharmfultothemarineecosystemMonkfishheadsareoftendiscardedatseaastheyareconsideredanugly

fishThiswastesaparticularlytastymorselintheformofthecheeksbutKernowsashimiishappytoobligeandyourlocalfishmongershouldbeabletogetholdofthemtooThecheeksareagooddealcheaperthanthetailwhichhaslongsincemadeitsepithetoflsquopoormanrsquoslobsterrsquoredundantThisanglingfishisarealbrutebutthemeatisexceptionalanditsfirmtextureiswhatmakesthisdishsogoodSaffronmakesasplendidcompaniontomonkfishwithitsionichintsof

seaairandfragranceoffishingportsMarkthegardenerhasbeengrowingthesaffroncrocusforafewyearsbutitisalabourofloveInautumntheflowersproducethreestrandseachyetunfortunatelyforMarktheydonotallbloomatthesametimeHehastoscrutiniseeveryflowertocheckwhethertheyarereadytopicksometimestheyareleftfortoolongandthestrandsareblownaway

SERVES4ndash6500gmonkfishcheeksrinsedandpatteddry12saffronstrandsfrac14vanillapodfrac12cauliflowertrimmedandsplitintofloretsstalkroughlychopped1tspgroundcardamom25mldoublecreamalittlegroundnutorrapeseedoil50gwinterpurslane(orotherwintersaladleaves)apinchofgroundmace

apinchofgroundmace4ndash6unsmokedstreakybaconrasherscookedtogarnish(optional)seasalt

FORTHEANISEDRESSING

40mlcidervinegarfrac12tspdriedaniseed(orgroundfennelseed)4tbsprapeseedoil1tspsmoothDijonmustardapinchofsalt

FirstmakethedressingHeatthecidervinegarinapanforafewminutesoveramediumheatRemoveaddtheaniseedandallowtocooltoroomtemperatureStrainthevinegarintoabowladdtheoilmustardandsaltandwhisktocombineTastetochecktheseasoningandaddalittlemoremustardifitneedsit

PutthemonkfishcheeksinabowlwiththesaffronMixtodispersetheyellowsaffronandsetaside

SlitthevanillapodopenlengthwaysscrapeouttheseedsandsetasidePlacethepodinapanofwaterthatwilltakeasteamerbasketandbringtoasimmerPutthecauliflowerstalkinthebasketplaceoverthewaterthencoverandsteamuntilverysoftThismaytake25minutesMeanwhileaddthecardamomtoaseparatepanofwaterandsteamthecauliflowerfloretsoveritfor10ndash15minutesuntiltenderRemoveandsetaside

WhenyouaresatisfiedthatthecauliflowerstalkiswellcookedtransferittoablenderandaddthecreamandsomesalttotasteBlendstoppingtoscrapedownthesidesoftheblenderwithaspatulauntilverysmoothAnyremaininglumpscanberemovedbypassingthepureacuteethroughafinesieveStirthevanillaseedsthroughthepureacuteeItcomestolifeatthismomentbecomingscentedandspeckledKeepwarmwhileyouassembletherestofthedish

Tocookthemonkfishheatalargeheavy-basednon-stickfryingpanoveramediumheatItwilltakeagoodfewminutestowarmthroughevenlysoresisttheurgetocookonituntilitradiatesheatAddenoughoiltothenow

resisttheurgetocookonituntilitradiatesheatAddenoughoiltothenowgoldenfishtocoatitlightlyandseasonwithsaltAddthecheekstothepanandcookfor5minutesoneachsideuntillightlycolouredandjustcookedthroughEnsurethatthefishiscolouringbutnotburningandadjusttheheatifneedsbeRemovethepanfromtheheatThefishcanrestintheheatofthepanwhileyouassemblethedish

ToservetossthewinterpurslanewiththeanisedressingSpoonthecauliflowerpureacuteeonto4servingplatesalongwiththefloretsandstackthefishalongsidewithapileofsaladleavesDustwithalittlegroundmaceandiflikedtopwiththecrispbaconrashers

daggerBritainhasahistoryofsaffroncultivationinthefieldsofNorfolkandSuffolkCornwallalsohadasaffron-growingindustryuntilthenineteenthcenturyandyoucanstillbuyCornishsaffroncaketodayThereisacommercialsaffronfarminNorfolkbutnotsurprisinglytheyregularlyselloutbeforethenextseasonevenbegins

RoastPartridgewithBreadandCheese

TherearetwocommonspeciesofpartridgeinBritainthenativegreyandtheFrenchred-leggedThenativebirdisararitythesedaysanditsFrenchrelativeistheonemostofuswillencounterAtaquickglancethepartridgelooksremarkablylikeaplumpmonocledgentndashanillusionthatisquicklyshatteredwhenitfleesinarapidscuttlepreferringtorunratherthanflyEscapedbirdsfromnearbyshootsregularlyappeararoundourciderbarn

andratherironicallygiventhisrecipeunderourhawthornhedgeWethinkpartridgesaretheperfectsizeforthehungrycookItisworth

followingtherulelsquoroasttheyoungpottherestrsquondashasomewhatbrutalmantrabutveryusefulnonethelessOlderbirdsarewonderfulinstewsandcasserolesslowcookeduntilthemeatistenderAyoungpartridgestillhasaslightlypliablebeakandclawsanditsbreastbonewillbesmallerthanthatofanolderbirdWenormallyhangpartridgeforfivedaysorsoinacooldryplaceThemixofflavoursandtexturesinthisrecipemightappear

overcomplicatedbuttheresultistremendousItscreationwasgreetedwithnothinglessthancomicair-punchinginthekitchenTheplumpbirdsitsonbreadsaucefragrantwithitsgentlehintofcloveThefondantpotatoesandcavoloneroprovidebutterandwelcomeacidityrespectivelyThehawthornjellyiscleansweetandtartflecksofOgleshieldcheesemarrywellwiththeflavourofclovesandthesweetnessofthehawthornOgleshieldcheeseismadeinSomersetbyJamieMontgomeryusingunpasteurisedmilkfromasmallherdofJerseysHewasheshistrucklesleavingacheesethatisverylikeracletteonlybetterThisdishisbestenjoyedwithaglassofourhouseVermouth(seehere)

ThebotanicalsinthedrinkgreetthecloveinthebreadsaucelikeanoldfriendwhilethecaramelinthehawthornjellymatchestheinitialsweetnessperfectlyTheadditionoforangetothisrecipecameaftertastingthevermouthwithwhatwethoughtwasthefinalversionHavingabloodorangehandyMatthewlayeredhawthornjellybreadsaucepartridgecheeseandapinchoforangezestinaspoonforeachofusandwealltookitinturnstoswigatthevermouthTheflavourcombinationsparkedimmediately(weshouldconfessthatthenegronicocktailisafavouritehereatBarleyWood)

SERVES44red-leggedpartridgesadrizzleofrapeseedoil4bayleaves4slicesofsourdoughbreadHawthornJelly(seehere)forbrushingandtoserve100gOgleshieldCheeseorotherraclette-stylecheeseofthehighestorderfinelyshaved

zestof1bloodorange(orordinaryorange)FondantPinkFirPotatoes(seehere)toserveseasaltandblackpepper

FORTHEBRININGSOLUTION

15litreswater90gseasalt2tbspjuniperberries4cloves2tspcorianderseeds1tspblackpeppercorns

FORTHEBREADSAUCE

300mlmilk2tbspdoublecream60gyellowonionroughlychopped2goodpinchesofgroundcloves1bayleaffrac12tspEnglishmustardfrac12tspsalt

75gstalebreadcutinto25cmcubes

FORTHECAVOLONERO

200gblackcabbage(cavolonero)orredkaleroughlychoppedadrizzleofrapeseedoil1tbspcidervinegar

PutalltheingredientsforthebrineinapanandbringtotheboilstirringtodissolvethesaltLeavetocoolandthenchillPlacethepartridgesinthechilledbriningsolutionmakingsuretheyarecompletelysubmergedandleavetheminthefridgefor1frac14hours

DrainthebirdsanddiscardthebrinePatthemdryonkitchenpaperandsetaside(Whileweareonthesubjectofchillingthevermouthoughttobeinthefridgebynow)TomakethebreadsauceputalltheingredientsexceptthebreadinasaucepanandbringtoasimmerCookgentlyfor10ndash15minutesuntiltheonioniscompletelysoftRemovethebayleafandclovestransferthemixturetoablenderandblitzuntiltheonionisincorporatedintothemilkAddthebreadandallowthebreadtosoakforacoupleofminutesbeforeblitzinguntilsmoothTasteandaddmoreseasoningifnecessaryForaverysmoothbreadsaucepassitthroughafinesievegentlypressingwiththebackofasmallladleKeepwarmuntilreadytoserve

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6LightlycoatthepartridgesinoilthenseasonwithsaltandpepperPlaceabayleafinthecavityofeachbirdandputthemonabakingtrayrestingeachoneonasliceofthebreadRoastintheovenfor12ndash15minutesuntillightlycolouredndashtheyshouldstillbepinkinsideBrushalightglazeofhawthornjellyoverthebirdsandreturnthemtotheovenfor3minutesLeavethebirdstorestinawarmplacefor10minutesbeforeserving

ForthecavoloneroheatafryingpanandaddafilmofoilAddthecabbageandseasonwithseasaltCookoveramedium-highheattossingregularlytopreventscorchinguntiltheleavesstarttowiltAddthecidervinegarandcookbrieflyuntilevaporatedRemovethecabbagefromthepanandsetaside

ToassemblethedishspoonsomebreadsauceontoeachservingplateFlake

ToassemblethedishspoonsomebreadsauceontoeachservingplateFlakeovershavingsoftheOgleshieldtheywillmeltastheylandonthesaucePlacethebirdsontopthenaddthecavoloneroalongwithdollopsofhawthornjellyScatterovertheorangezestandservewiththefondantpotatoesAdmireyourdinnerfornolongerthanittakestopourthevermouthtableside

WASSAIL

OurannualWassailtakesplaceinearlyJanuaryTheCeltsviewedthistimeofyearasthegatewayfromdarknesstolightwhenallofnatureawakesAsrecentlyastheearlytwentiethcenturywholevillagesndasheldersandinfantsalikendashwouldcongregateintheorchardsandsingshoutandbangoutroughmusiconpotsandpanstowakethetreespiritsfromtheirwinterslumberandwardofftheevilspiritsthatmightharmthetreesrsquofertilityItwasachancetothrowasidetheacceptedhierarchiesandasenseofchaosprevailedCentraltothiseventwastheWassailcupacommunaldrinkofmulledciderandspicethatwaspassedfromhandtohandtotoasttheappletreeOnedrinkthatwerituallypassaroundwhenwewassailisLambrsquosWool(seehere)

LambrsquosWool

WassailisacuriouseveningatBarleyWoodamixoffoodmusicfireandgnarledappletreesOnedrinkthatwealwaysserveatWassailisaconcoctioncalledlambrsquoswoolndasharichsmoothcombinationofaleapplesandspicesthatpre-datesandoutstripsmulledciderandisperfectforcoldoutdooreveningsThisdrinklikemanyrecipesthathavebeenpasseddownandaroundhas

amistyparentagebutthenameseemstooriginatefromtheCelticlamhrsquossuilmeaninghandandeyeWecanonlyimaginethatthisalludestotheco-ordinationyouwillneedtomakethisdrinkitsfrothytoplooksjustlikelambrsquoswool

SERVES46largeBlenheimOrangeapples(orBramleys)coredandleftwhole15litresBoxSteamBreweryDarkandHandsomeorotherdarkbeer250gdemerarasugarfrac12nutmeggrated1thumb-sizedpieceoffreshgingerpeeledandfinelysliced1cinnamonstick1staranise

Heattheovento160degCGasMark3Placetheapplesonabakingsheetandbakefor1houroruntilsoftRemoveandleavetocool

PutthebeeranddemerarasugarinadeeppanandbringtoasimmerstirringtodissolvethesugarAddthespicesandsimmerfor10minutesSqueezetheapplefleshfromtheskinsandpassitthroughafinesieveRemovethespicesfromthebeerthenwhiskintheapplepulpoverahighheatBringtotheboilstirringallthetimeThehardwhiskingwillcreatethewoollytoponthelambrsquoswool

ServeinglassessilvertankardsorthecommunalWassailcupndashifyouhaveone

ForustheWassailisachancetocelebratethediversityofourorchardanacknowledgementofthemagicofapplesarebellionagainstthecolddarkdepthsofwinterItisacrucialpartofourrelationshipwiththelandandwefeelitisimportanttoinvolveandengageeveryonecitydwellersandcountryfolkalikewiththeseasonsForthatreasonwehaveendedupwithabeautifulandcompletelymadfestivalthatcentresonfoodfriendshipandhappinessRestoringthisancienttraditiontoBarleyWoodhasbeenagreatsuccesswithhundredsoflocalsandBristoliansjoininguseachyearItwasourfriendsandartisancheesemakersTimandAngelaofHomewoodCheeseswhoguidedusthroughourfirstWassailWassailnightiswithoutfailoneofthecoldestnightsoftheyearatthe

WalledGardenThefrostformssilentlyovertheorchardsandvegetablepatchesAtfirstwedonrsquotnoticeitTorchbearersleadtheWassailprocessiontakingustotheoldesttreeintheorchardItisthenthatwelookaroundandrealisewearesurroundedbyshimmeringiceThentheceremonybegins

realisewearesurroundedbyshimmeringiceThentheceremonybegins

JanetrsquosJungleJuiceIcewithCheddar99Flake

Weareveryfortunatetobesituatedrightinthemiddleofoneofthemostprominentcider-producingareasinSomersetWehaveagreatnumberofso-calledciderapplesinourorchardandhavehadafairshotatmakingourownciderThebestresultshavecomefromusingoneofourfavouritevarietiesMorganSweetDespiteafewgoodattemptsthoughwecanhonestlysaythatweareyet

tomatchtheciderproducedbyWestCroftinBrentKnollSomersetItisresponsibleforthedelectablebeverageaptlynamedJanetrsquosJungleJuiceoraswelazilycallitJJJThiscloudyciderhasprovedextremelypopularatour

welazilycallitJJJThiscloudyciderhasprovedextremelypopularatourannualWassailItismadefromtraditionalEnglishciderapplescollectedfromWestCroftrsquosownorchardwheremanyofthetreespre-datetheFirstWorldWarTheyarealltraditionalSomersetciderapplesKingstonBlackMorganSweetSheeprsquosNoseBrownSnoutChiselJerseyYarlingtonMillDabinettandMichelinWestCroftdoesnotaddsugartomakeJJJstrongerandthenwateritdownasmanycidermakersdoInsteaditismadefrom100percentcider-applejuiceWerarelyhaveanyleftbytheendofWassaileveningwhichiswhywealwayskeepbackasupplylsquoforstaffrsquoIthelpsfocusthemindwhenalltheguestshaveleftandwearefacedwithamajorclear-upintheearlyhoursofthemorningWecameupwiththisfrozendessertintheweekfollowingourfirst

WassailItseekstoencapsulatesomeofthemainelementsofWassaileveningallowingustocontinuethefestivitiesforthatlittlebitlongeralbeitinamorerefinedandsubduedmanner

SERVES6ndash81litreJanetrsquosJungleJuice(orgoodroughdryscrumpycider)60gcastersugar65mlciderbrandy150gKeenrsquosCheddarcuttorectangularlsquo99rsquoflakeshapesmintleavespreferablyappleminttogarnish

PutashallowmetaltrayinthefreezertochillCombinethecidersugarandciderbrandyinabowlandstiruntilthesugardissolvesPourthemixtureintothechilledtrayandplaceinthefreezerLeaveuntilitisbeginningtofreezearoundtheedgesandthenstirthoroughlyEvery30minutesorsostirwithaforkcrushinganylumpsuntiltheiceisfirmbutnotfrozensolidndashthiswilltakeabout3hoursTransfertoacontainerwithalidandstoreinthefreezer

ServetheiceinteacupsorglasseswiththeCheddarlsquoflakesrsquoaddedgarnishedwithmintleaves

RabbitConfitwithLovageBreadcrumbs

Makingaconfitorcookingslowlyinfatisatraditionalwayofpreservingmeat(seehere)AttheWalledGardenwedoitprimarilyinautumntopreservethelegsofthegamethatcomesinThiscarriesusthroughuntilwinterwhenproduceismorescarceShortlyafterwearrivedattheWalledGardenwediscoveredtoour

dismaythattherewasnolovagegrowingthereSoMarkplantedlovageseedsalongthewestwallinthealreadydiverseherbgardenandwewaitedbuttheplantsfailedtoappearWesoonfoundoutthatlikeallgoodthingslovageneedstimetodevelopForayearMatthewharvesteditfromtheplantoverrunninghisowngardenathomeandbroughtitintoservicetherestaurantThisplanthasbeenuprootedduringtwohousemovesndashaprocessthatleftMatthewrsquoshandsreekingoflovageforaweekafterwardsLovageisveryversatileandeasytogrowonceestablishedsodogiveita

goTheseedsarefullofcharacterandflavourandcanbedriedandpreservedwhiletheleavesaddanewdimensiontosaladsandstocksThisrecipeisanidealwaytousethevaluableseedswhichhavecelerytonesthatmatchthesweetrabbitfleshndashifyoudonrsquothaveanylovageseedsyoucouldtryceleryseedsinsteadMakingtherabbitintoaconfitkeepsthesometimes-dryfleshchin-drippinglyjuicyForperfectlycrispbreadcrumbsyouneedtothinkintermsofevendryingratherthantoastingFollowthemethodbelowforsuccesseverytime

SERVES42ConfitRabbits(seehere)150gstalebreadcutinto25cmcubes15glovageseedsroughlycrushedinapestleandmortar2eggyolkslightlybeatentoastedsourdoughbreadtoservebakedonions(seemethod)toservemixedsaladleavestoserveDarkPlumChutney(seehere)toserveHeattheovento180degCGasMark4Ifyouhavemadetheconfitrabbitinadvancewarmthejarinapanof

lightlysimmeringwatersothefatbecomesliquidthenremovethelegsandlaythemonabakingtray

BlitzthebreadandlovageseedstogetherinafoodprocessortomakefinebreadcrumbsSpreadthecrumbsevenlyonabakingtrayandplaceintheovenCookfor6ndash10minutesremovingthetrayevery2minutesandturningthecrumbsItwillquicklybecomeapparentwhereyourovenhashotspotsandcoolerareasContinueuntilthecrumbsareevenlydriedandlightlycoloured

BrushtherabbitwiththebeateneggyolkandcoatwiththepungentbreadcrumbsPlaceintheovenfor8minutesthenremoveandleavetorestfor2minutes

Servetherabbitwithlightlytoastedsourdoughbreadandifyoulikesomebakedonions(placewholeskin-ononionsintheovenforanhouruntiltender)saladleavesandDarkPlumChutney

CONFIT

ThistechniqueissoinvaluablesosimplesoversatileandonceyoumasterittherewillalwaysbesomethingrobustandepicureaninthefridgetoheatupatthelastminuteinanemergencyConfitisaFrenchtechniquethatwasdevelopedbeforerefrigerationandtranslatesaslsquopreservedrsquoAlongsidecuringsmokinganddryingitisinvaluabletoanyonewhowantstoeatwiththeseasonsGamecanbepreservedthroughthewintermonthswellintospringToughercutssuchasducklegsbenefitfromthelongcookingprocesswhilethefatinwhichtheyarecookedcanbeusedafterwardsAlayerofporkfatsealsthetopcompletelyandconfitcanbestoredinacoolcellarwithnoriskofspoilageThefatcanalsobereusedagainandagainreheatedwithalittlemoresaltaddedContainerssuchastall-sidedpreservingjarscanningjarsandKilnersarebesttoreheatjustwarmthejarinapanoflightlysimmeringwatertoloosenthefatremovetheducklegsandbakeintheovenfor8ndash10minutesIfyoursquoreseriousaboutyourconfitasmallinvestmentofthirtyquidcan

buyahomevacuumsealerWrappedinpolythenebagsmeatneedsonlyatablespoonoffatarounditandtheairissuckedoutofthepackagingThisrecreatesthesameairlessenvironmentasthatofthefatstoragemethodabovewhilerequiringlessspaceinthefridgeandlessoftherawingredientSaltandspicesareusedfirsttodrawmoisturefromthemeatFollowthe

spiceguidebelowforsuggestedseasoningsbutdotryyourownblendsTheweightofsaltistheoneconstanttoadheretosetat4gperlegscaleaccordingtothisBlendorcrushthesaltsandspicestogetherleavingthewoodybayleaveswholeCoveryourchosencutsinthissaltmixtureforaminimumof12andmaximumof36hoursWashthemeatundercoldwatertoremovetheresidualsaltandherbsPlaceaboutthreekilosofgoosefatinatall-sidedovenproofpanHeatthefattoloosenitandlaythelegsinitAddmorefatifneededasthelegsneedtobefullysubmergedSettheovento90degC(orthelowestpossibleovensetting)andcookfor5ndash6hoursTheoilshouldnrsquotbubbleatthistemperaturesoturndownthetemperaturebyfivedegreesifthatrsquoshappening

Oppositeareourrecommendedquantitiesfordifferenttypesofmeatusing

OppositeareourrecommendedquantitiesfordifferenttypesofmeatusingthecookinginstructionsgivenaboveWehavealsogivenarecipeforconfittomatoesasthiscookingmethodconcentratestheflavoursinspectacularfashion

ConfitMeats

FORCONFITDUCK

3kggoosefat12ducklegs48gfineseasalt12gstaranise6gblackpeppercorns3gclovepowder6gfennelseeds6bayleaves

FORCONFITCHICKEN

3kggoosefat12chickenlegs48gfineseasalt12gjuniperberries6gblackpepper3gclovepowder6bayleaves

FORCONFITRABBIT

frontandhindlegsfrom4rabbits3kggoosefat48gsalt12glovageseeds6gblackpeppercorns

3gfennelseeds8driedlavenderflowers6bayleaves

ConfitTomatoeswithRuffleBasil

TomatoesareblimminrsquomarvellouswhencookedlikethisAlthoughnotsubmergedinfattheyarecookedoveralayerofrapeseedoilwithalittlemoredrizzledoverthemessentiallypreservingthemwithfat

6tomatoesrapeseedoilbasilorthymeseasalt

Preheattheovento120degCGasMarkfrac12

CutacrossinthebottomofthetomatoesanddropthemintosimmeringwaterforacoupleofminutesRemovewithaslottedspoonandpeelofftheskinsQuarterthetomatoesscoopoutthefleshandseeds(youcanretaintheseformakingtomatoessenceseebelow)andyouareleftwithtomatofleshshards

LineabakingsheetwithfoilBrushwithrapeseedoilandplacethetomatoesontopDustwithsaltandyourchosenherbPlaceintheovenfor90minutesCheckthemattheendofthistimeandturnthemovertheyneedtobemostlydrybutstillpliableReturntotheovenforafurther10minutesifneedsbe

TomaketomatoessenceplacetheseedsinafinesieveandsquashthroughwithaspoonPlacetheliquidoveralow-mediumheattoboilslowlyitwillreduceandreachtheconsistencyofpassataAddapinchofsaltandsugartothisintenselyflavouredsavourysauceUseasagarnishforanyfoodthatpairswithtomato

BeefBrisketSlow-roastedinCoffeeSaucewithValorMash

UsingthehumblercutsofmeatisanEthicureanprerequisiteBrisketisarelativelyinexpensivecutallowingustomaximisethebeastrsquosworthandminimiseourcostswhileeatingexceptionallywellAskyourbutchertoboneandrollitwithallitslovelycollagenandfatintactCollagenwillonlybreakdownataround70degCsobrisketneedsalonggentlecookAmeatthermometerwillhelpnoendinperfectingthisroastMoistureisalsovitalandthiscreatesampleopportunityforseasoningwithalesandsaucesTheroastedsmokyrichnessofcoffeemakesitoneofbeefrsquosclosestyet

largelyoverlookedalliesOurcoffeesupplierisExtractrunbythreeenthusiastswhoroastalloftheircoffeeinavintage1955cast-ironProbatroasterSamDavidandMarkrebuiltandconditionedthisfinecontraptionthemselvesanditlooksasifitcouldhavebeenbuiltbyWallaceandGromitWeregularlytakeourstafftoExtracttoseetheentireprocessfromrawbeantocupandtoloseafewhoursinconversationwithexperts

SERVES415kgbeefbrisketrolledandtiedalittleoilasmallbunchofthymeseasalt

FORTHECOFFEESAUCE

140gtomatopureacutee500mlwater100mlespressocoffee2tbspcidervinegarfrac12tspsmokedpaprika1tbsppaprika1tspgroundcumin1chipotlechillideseededandcrushed

FORTHEVALORPOTATOMASH

15kgValorpotatoes(DesireeRemarkaandKingEdwardalsoworkwell)peeledandcutintoeven-sizedchunks125mlmilk

125gbutter

Heattheovento220degCGasMark7RubthebrisketwithoilandsprinklethethymeleavesoverPlaceitinashallowroastingtrayandroastfor30minutesuntilcolouredslightlyRemovefromtheovenandlowerthetemperatureto140degCGasMark1

MeanwhilemixallthesauceingredientstogetherTransferthebriskettoadeeproastingtinandpouroverthesauceCoverthetintightlywithfoilusing2layersifnecessarytocreateatightsealReturntotheovenandcookforabout4hoursuntilverytenderifyouhaveameatthermometeritshouldregister70degC

ForthemashputthepotatoesinapanofcoldwaterwithatablespoonofsaltandbringthemveryslowlytoasimmerCookuntilverysoftbutnotfallingapartDrainthroughacolanderplacethecolanderoverthepanandreturnthepantotheswitched-offhobndashtheresidualheatfromthecookerwillallowthepotatoestosteamdryTheycanbeleftfor10minutesorsowhileyouheatthemilkandbutter

Placethemilkandbutterinapanwithfrac12teaspoonofsaltandheatgentlyuntilthebutterhasmeltedPassthepotatoesthroughapotatoricerintothewarmedbutterandmilk(apotatoricerisaninvaluabletoolforcreatinglighteven-texturedmashonceyoursquovetriedoneyoursquollwonderwhyyouevermademashanyotherway)Stirtocombinethentastetodecidewhetheryouwouldpreferalittlemoresalt

Whenthebeefisreadyremovefromtheovenandleavetorestforabout15minutesbeforecarvingServewiththemash

PigeonBreastswithBeetrootPearlBarleyandBordelaiseSauce

TheironyofservingpigeonandpearlbarleytogetherisnotlostonmanyofourcustomersparticularlythefarmerswhoeatwithusTheyhaveseenmanyagreedywoodpigeonfeastingontheirbarleycropBordelaisesauceisaslowlyreducedmixofstockandredwineWeliketouseDetroitbeetrootwiththepearlbarleyasitcontainsthemostmoleculesofgeosminthesmellthatwerecogniseasmoistsoil

SERVES44woodpigeonbreastsremovedandskinned(savethecarcassestouseforstockifyoulike)

alittleoil4largehandfulsofkalelargestalksremovedaknobofbutterseasaltandblackpeppersmokedsalttoserve(optional)

FORTHEBEETROOTPEARLBARLEY

300gpearlbarley1mediumbeetrootpeeledandcutinto1cmcubes200mlbrownchickenstock(seehere)FORTHEBORDELAISESAUCE

400mlredwine35gshallotsfinelychopped60gcarrotsfinelychopped40gmushroomsfinelychopped1tbspchoppedparsley2sprigsofthyme8peppercorns1bayleaf500mlbeefstock(seehere)

Rinsethepearlbarleyinasieveundercoldrunningwaterforafewminutes

RinsethepearlbarleyinasieveundercoldrunningwaterforafewminutestoremoveexcessstarchPlaceinasaucepancoverwithcoldwaterandbringtotheboilDrainandrinseundercoldrunningwateragainReturnthebarleytothepanandcovergenerouslywithwaterBringtotheboilreducetheheatandsimmerfor15minutesAddthebeetrootandcookfor20ndash30minutesuntilthebeetrootisaldenteandthebarleytenderDrainandreturnthebarleyandbeetroottothepanAddthechickenstockandcookoveramediumheatfor5ndash10minutesstirringregularlyuntilthebarleyhasabsorbedthestockandisglazedinappearanceSeasonwithsalttotaste

MeanwhilemakethebordelaisesaucePutalltheingredientsexceptthebeefstockinasaucepanandbringtoasimmerCookuntiltheliquidhasreducedtoabout2tablespoonsAddthestockandsimmerfor10ndash15minutesthenstrainintoapanCookoveramediumheatuntilthesaucelightlycoatsthebackofaspoonSeasonwithsalttotaste

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6LightlyoilthepigeonbreastsandseasononbothsidesPlacealargeovenprooffryingpanoverahighheatOncethepanissmokinghotaddathinfilmofoilPlacethepigeonbreastsinthepanskinned-sidedownLeavefor15secondsoruntillightlybrownedunderneaththenturnthemovergentlypressdownwithafishsliceandtransferthepantotheovenforabout3minutesthemeatshouldstillgivealittlewhenyoupressitwithafingerRemoveandtransfertoawarmplatetorestfor10minutesMeanwhilecookthekaleinalargepanofboilingsaltedwateruntiltender(nomorethan45seconds)Drainwellbeingsuretostrainoffasmuchliquidaspossibleandtosswiththeknobofbutter

Spoonthebarleyonto4servingplatesandarrangethekalearounditSliceeachpigeonbreastinto3andplaceontopPourthesauceoverandsprinklewithalittlesaltorsmokedsalt

SteamedLemonSolewithFondantPinkFirsGoldenBeetrootandNasturtiumRemoulade

ThedelicatefleshandsubtleflavouroflemonsolearebestpreservedbysteamingInanattempttoprotecttheyoungerfishandpreventdepletionofthespeciesCornwallhasenforcedabyelawthatonlylemonsolelongerthan25cmcanbefishedTherearenosuchrestrictionsintheEUsoyoushouldtryasfaraspossibletobuysolethathavebeenfishedsustainablyWheneveryoubuyfishitrsquosworthcheckingtheMarineConservationSocietyrsquosonlineguidetoseafood(wwwfishonlineorg)whichratesthesustainabilityofeachspeciesonascaleofonetofiveWehadforawhilebeendebatingwhatwerethebestaccompaniments

tofishwithallofusagreeingthatcapersfeaturedhighonthelistUnfortunatelytheytendtogrowonlyinwarmerclimatesandwewantedtouseahomegrownalternativeNasturtiumseedsfittedthebillperfectlyIfyoudonrsquothavenasturtiumsinyourgardenyoucouldofcourseusecapersRemouladeisamayonnaise-basedsaucetypicallymadewithfinelydiced

cornichonsorothergherkinsUsingwhatwehaveavailablecansometimesproveachallengebutinthisinstanceitproducedauniquesweetgoldenbeetrootsauce

SERVES42lemonsolefilleted400gpurplesproutingbroccoliseasalt

FORTHEGOLDENBEETROOTANDNASTURTIUMREMOULADE

1smallgoldenbeetroot215mlcidervinegar1tspgroundfennelseeds1eggyolk1tablespoonorchardhoney1teaspoonEnglishmustard1tspseasalt350mlrapeseedoil

350mlrapeseedoil1tbspPickledNasturtiumSeeds(seehere)chopped1tbspchoppedflat-leafparsley

FORTHEFONDANTPINKFIRS

1tbsprapeseedoil500gPinkFirApplepotatoes(orotherwaxypotatoes)cutinto4cmpieces250gbuttercutintocubes

FirstmaketheremouladePeelthebeetrootcutitinto1cmcubesandsaltitgenerouslyLeaveforabout10minutestodrawoutalittlemoistureThiswillaidthecrunchRinsethebeetrootbrieflyandputitinabowlBring200mlofthevinegartotheboilwiththegroundfennelpouritoverthebeetrootandleavetocool(Thevinegarwhichwillhaveanearthyflavourfromthebeetrootcanbesavedforsaladdressings)Placetheeggyolkhoneymustardsaltandtheremaining15mlvinegarinabowlandwhiskeitherwithanelectricwhiskonfullspeedfor1minuteorbyhandforalittlelongerThiswillallowtheacidstogotoworkontheeggproteinsAddtherapeseedoilinaveryslowtrickleandwatchtomakesureitisbeingfullyincorporatedwhilethemixercontinuestospinoryourarmisablurOncethemixturehasemulsifiedyoucanpourtheoilinalittlefasterEventuallythemixtureshouldhaveathickwobblyconsistencyDrainthebeetrootandstiritintogetherwiththepicklednasturtiumseedsandparsleyChilluntilreadytoservendashitwillkeepforacoupleofdaysinthefridge

Forthefondantpotatoesheattheovento200degCGasMark6PlacealargeovenprooffryingpanoveramediumheatuntilhotAddtheoilfollowedbythepotatoesandcookstirringuntilthepotatoesaregoldenalloverSeasonwithsaltandaddallthecubesofbutterplusasplashofwaterAllowthebuttertomeltthencoverthecontentsofthepanwithadiscofgreaseproofpaperPlaceintheovenandcookfor30ndash35minutesuntilaknifewillpassthroughthepotatoeswithlittleresistance

Seasonthesolefilletsrollthemupandspikeon4skewers(seephotographsopposite)YouwillneedatallpanwithalidtocookthefilletsontheirspikesBringafewcentimetresofwatertoasimmerinthepanthenstandtheskewersinitCoverandcookgentlyfor7ndash8minutesuntilthefishisjustcookedthroughRemovefromthepanandkeepwarm

Cookthebroccoliinapanofboilingsaltedwaterfor3ndash4minutesuntiljusttenderthendrainCarefullyremovethesolefromtheskewersandserveonthefondantpotatoesaccompaniedbythebroccoliandsplashesoftheremoulade

daggerNasturtiumsareavaluableplanttohaveinanygardenTheleavesattractblackflyandslugswhichmeansthattheseunwantedvisitorsleaveothernearbyplantsandvegaloneThewholeplantisediblewiththeflowerstastingmoremagnificentthanwildrocketTheirpepperytastemakesthemworthyoftheirnamewhichmeanslsquonosetwistrsquo(PickledNasturtium

Seedspicturedseehere)

SeaRobinwithFennelButterSauceandHerbedPinkFirs

GurnardusedtobesounprofitableforfishermenthatitwasmostlyusedasbaitordiscardedThankstoenvironmentalcampaignersandchefshoweverthespecieshasrecentlybeensuccessfullychampionedasfoodanditisindeedsuperblytastyItiswidelythoughtofasanuglyfishbutwethinkthatitspoutingmouthandbigblackeyeswouldnotbeoutofplaceinacartoonThegurnardrsquosancientnameoflsquosearobinrsquomadeitsinclusiononourmenu

essentialasitseemedsopertinenttoourlocationLegendhasitthatrobinsaretheguardiansoftheorchardsSearobinsgainedtheirnameduetotheirabilitytoproducesoundswiththeirswimbladdersandattachedmusclesItseemsthattheyareasrelentlesslyvocalasourlandrobinswhichsingallyearroundThedelicate-tastingskinofthisfishmakesasuperbmatchforthe

liquoricehintoffennelseedsFennelcanbeseenfloweringbetweenJulyandOctoberincentralandsouthernareasofEnglandandalongcoastlinesinWalesTheseedscanbekeptandusedallyearroundYouwillappreciatethataniseedadditiontoyourfoodinthedepthsofwinterwhenotherinterestingingredientsarescarceThesauceisavariationonaclassichollandaisemadewithroughlyhalf

theusualamountofbutterWeliketoservethiswithkale(seehere)

SERVES42gurnardscaledandfilletedadrizzleofoilaknobofbutterfineseasaltandblackpepper

FORTHEFENNELBUTTERSAUCE

100mlfishstock(seehere)75mlwhitewine1tspfennelseeds185gcoldbuttercutinto1cmcubes

adashofcidervinegar3eggyolks

FORTHEHERBEDPOTATOES

600gPinkFirApplepotatoes(orotherwaxypotatoes)cutinto4ndash5cmpieces

1tbsprapeseedorgroundnutoilaknobofunsaltedbutterahandfulofparsleychopped

Ensurethegurnardfilletsareasdryaspossiblebeforescoringtheskinwithasharpknifewithcuts1cmapart(Seeoppositeforourtipondryingthefishfillets)Tomakethesauceputthefishstockwhitewineandfennelseedsinasmallpanoveramedium-highheatandboiluntiltheliquidhasreducedto3or4tablespoonsStrainitintoaheatproofbowltoremovethefennelseedsandleavetocoolfor5minutes

AddtheeggyolkstothereducedstockandwhiskuntilfullyincorporatedSitthebowloverapanofbarelysimmeringwatermakingsurethewaterdoesnrsquottouchthebaseofthebowlWhiskthemixtureuntilitbecomesairyandthickndashlookforsoftpeaksasyouwouldwitheggwhitesAtthisstagewhiskinthebutterapieceatatimeensuringeachisfullyincorporatedbeforeaddingthenextAfterawhilelargerquantitiesofbuttercanbeaddedeachtimeSeasonwithfineseasaltandvinegartotasteTakethepanofftheheatbutleavethebowloverthewaterwhileyoucookthefishandstirthesauceregularlytopreventaskinforming

CookthepotatoesinboilingsaltedwateruntiltenderthendrainPlacealargeheavy-basedfryingpanoverahighheatWhenitishotaddtheoilquicklyfollowedbythepotatoesTosstocoatlightlywiththeoilandseasonwithfineseasalt

CookstirringuntilgoldenalloverthenaddthebutterandparsleyTossthroughandremovefromtheheat

Heatalargeheavy-basedfryingpanoveramedium-highheatVerylightlyoiltheskinofthegurnardfilletsandseasonwithalightevenlayeroffineseasaltandcrackedblackpepperPourathinfilmofoilintothehotfrying

seasaltandcrackedblackpepperPourathinfilmofoilintothehotfryingpanandaddthegurnardskin-sidedownCookoveramediumheatwithoutturningormovingthefishfor2ndash3minutesuntiltheskinturnsgoldenbrownFlipthefilletsovertakethepanofftheheatandaddalargeknobofbutterLeavetorestfor5minutesndashthefishwillfinishcookingintheheatofthepanToservespoontheherbedpotatoesintothecentreofeachplateandpressdownwiththebackofthespoontocrushthemslightlyPlacethegurnardfilletsontopandspoonagenerousamountofthesaucearoundthepotatoes

LiquidshighinaciditysuchascitrusjuiceandvinegarcanbeusedasflavourenhancersmuchlikesaltItrsquosnotnecessarilythetasteofvinegarorcitrusthatwewantinthesaucebuttheyliftrichheavyflavoursprovidingawelcomeacidityandacleaner

tasteWhenusedasaseasoningvinegarshouldnotbenoticeableIfitisobviousthenyoursquoveusedtoomuch

ToachieveacrispskinonthefishasmuchmoistureaspossiblemustberemovedbeforecookingLaythefilletsskin-sideuponaboardRunaknifebladeangledslightlydownthefilletfromtheheadendtothetailendusingtheknifeasasqueegeetopushthemoisturedownandoutoftheskinUsekitchenpapertowipeoffthemoisturethatcollectsontheknifeandatthetailendofthefishRepeatuntiltheskinfeelsdrytothetouchFlipthefillets

overandwithasharpknifecuteachoneinhalfataslightangleTurnthefilletsskin-sideupagainandscoretheskinwithcuts1cmapartAverysharpknifeorascalpelwillcomeinhandyhereBesurenottocutintothefleshndashitrsquosonlytheskinyou

wanttoscoreThishelpsstopthefilletscurlingintheheatofthepan

PineappleTurmericandGingerGlazedHamwithlsquoPiccalillirsquo

SaladsdonotgetmuchbetterthanthisoneGammonandpineapplehavebeenafamiliarcombinationonpubmenusfordecadesThereissciencebehindthispairingasweoftenfindwhenweanalyseclassicfoodcombinationsPineapplecontainstheenzymebromelainwhichisanaturaltenderiserformeatMexicoalsohasabromelainandporkloveaffairascanbeseenatthetacosalpastorstandsThisoutrageouslyscoffablestreetfoodcomprisessmallcorntacosfilledwithshavingsofporkthathasbeengrilled

underpineappleThejuicedripsontothemeatasitcookscaramelisingandtenderisingitintheprocessIntheUKthepineappleusedtobeasymbolofwealthandhospitality

ParticularlyduringtheeighteenthcenturypossessionofthisspikyfruitwassoprestigiousthattherewasaproliferationofpineapplepitsincountryhousesacrossBritainApineapplepitwasademonstrationoftremendousgrowingskillanddedicationTheenergyneededtogrowthistropicalfruitismonumentalndashtheprocessinvolvedamixtureofmoistheatfromfermentingoakbarkorhorsemanureintheeartharoundthepineappleandanintricatesetoffurnacesandchimneysforadditionalheatTherearetheruinedremainsofapineapplepitonprivatelyownedlandverynearBarleyWoodItbelongedtotheslave-tradeabolitionistWilliamWilberforceafriendandallyofourBarleyWoodbenefactorHannahMorewhobuiltBarleyWoodHouseinthelateeighteenthcenturyDuringDecemberpineapplesfromtheCaribbeanareinseasonTryto

findFairtradefruitthatsmellssweetatthebaseThisindicatesthatithasbeenpickedclosetoripenessaspineapplesdonotripenfurtherafterbeingpicked

SERVES8GENEROUSLY

1largepineapple250ggoldengranulatedsugar3tbspgroundturmeric50gfreshgingerpeeledandfinelydiced1ndash2kgfree-rangecookedham

FORTHEPICCALILLI

200gcidervinegar100gcastersugar20corianderseedsfrac12tspdriedchilliflakes100gshallotstoppedandtailedslicedinhalfthroughthetopsandseparatedintoindividuallayers1tbspgroundturmeric

100gcauliflowerflorets

100gGlazedStarAnisecarrots(seehere)Heattheovento200degCGasMark6TopandtailthepineappleandcutawaythespikyskinCutthefleshawayfromthecoreandplaceinablenderorfoodprocessorPulsetillsmooththenstrainthemixturethroughasievepressingwiththebackofaspoontoextractthejuiceReserve35mlofthejuiceforthesaladdressing(youwonrsquotneedtherest)PutthepulpinabowlandmixwiththesugarturmericandgingerThisistheglazingmixturefortheham

Placethehamflat-sidedownonabakingsheetandspreadtheglazingmixturethicklyoveritCookfor30ndash40minutesuntiltheglazeiscaramelisedSetasidetocool

ForthepiccalilliheatthevinegartoboilingpointaddthesugarandstiruntildissolvedAddthecorianderseedschilliflakesandshallotsandbringbacktoasimmerRemovetheshallotswithaslottedspoonandsetasidetocoolAddtheturmerictothehotliquidfollowedbythecauliflowerfloretsBringtoasimmerthenstirwellRemovefromtheheatandleavethecauliflowertocoolintheyellowvinegarItwillpickupthecolouroftheturmericasitcools

FORTHESALADDRESSING

85mlcold-pressedrapeseedoilorgroundnutoil25mlcidervinegar35mlpineapplejuice1tspgroundstaranise1tspDijonmustard2pinchesofsalt

FORTHESALAD

200gMiikepurplegiantleaves(orothermustardysaladleaves)100gsaladleaves(weuseamixtureofredfrillwatercressandlandcress)100gwinterlettuceleavesabunchofcorianderabunchofchrysanthemumleavesifavailable

Tomakethedressingplacealltheingredientsinablenderandblenduntilemulsified

emulsified

ArrangeallthesaladleavesonservingplatesreservingafewofthesmallerredfrillforgarnishIfithelpstocuttheMiikepurplegiantdownthendosoSlicethehamandplaceacoupleofslicesontopoftheleavesintertwinedwithpiecesofthedeconstructedpiccalilliFinishbylightlydrizzlingoverthedressingandgarnishingwiththereservedleaves

GlazedStarAniseCarrots

300gcarrotspeeledandcutinto25cmchunks20gsaltedbutter2staranise1tspsugarpinchoffineseasalt

HeatapanoveramediumheatThepanshouldbebigenoughtoholdthecarrotsinasinglelayerWhenthepanishotaddthebutter(thebuttershouldsizzlebutnotburn)ThesecondthesizzlingsubsidesaddthestaraniseandcarrotsTossthecarrotsthroughthebuttertocoatevenlythenaddthesugarandsaltAddabout330mlcoldwatertothepan(enoughtoalmostcoverthecarrots)andturntheheatuptohighItmaytake5ndash10minutesforthewatertoalmostfullyreduceandthenthecarrotswillbegintosizzleagainStirthecarrotsvigorouslysothattheybegincaramelisingevenlyonallsidesWhentheyareanevengoldencolourremovefromthepanandservestraightaway

daggerAnumberofapplestastingremarkablylikepineapplecanbefoundinBritishorchardsExamplesinourorchardareRibstonPippinand

BlenheimOrangePitmastonPineapplewasmostlikelygrownfromaGoldenPippinseedlingbyJohnWilliamsin1845atPitmastonHouseinWorcesterThissmallsweetandrussetapplehasremarkablepineappletonesandyellowflesh

WINTERSALADS

MarkthegardenergrowshiswintersaladleavesinpolytunnelsatthebottomofthewalledgardenTheyrsquoreonaraisedplatformhoveringoverthefieldbelowDuringwinterwecanusuallytellwhetherMarkisinbyatrailingplumeofsmokefromthelittlestovethatheatshiskettleHealsothrowstogetheranexcellentvegetablestewthatwilloftensitcookingonthestoveformostofthemorningTheviewthroughthetunnelsandoutoftheopendoorisawonderfulsightoverlookingthefieldbelowitgivestheimpressionofanentrancetoanotherworldThetunnelsareplantedwithanumberofleavesthatprovidefresh

succulenceandawelcomevitamininjectiontotheshortchillydaysofwinterInthesaladonhereweuseMiikepurplegiant(Brassicajuncea)ThisleafisclassedasavegetableandinsomeculturesisboiledandsteamedWeprefertoeatitrawandrelishitshotmustardflavourItisalsoanindicatoroftheweatherasitturnsadeeperpurpleasthetemperaturedropsOppositeMarkhasplantedwinterpurslane(Claytoniaperfoliata)AnativeofNorthAmericaitisalsoknownasminerrsquoslettuceasitwaseatenbyminerstofendoffscurvyIthasalily-pad-liketopandatendertrailingstemMatureleavesseethebloomingofatinyflowerthatpiercesthecentreInrecentyearsMarkhastakentogrowingchrysanthemumsfortheir

leavesTheyhaveadistinctivetangthatresemblespineapplePrisingitfromMarkrsquosmuddyfingersisatrickybusinessbutwellworthitAddingmoremustardheatandcolourisredfrillndashajaggedvarietycontainingtwoexcellentcompoundssinigrinandgluconasturtiinWhenthesinigrinintheleafisexposedtocompoundsintheairitreactsandcreatesmustardoilItisthisverymustardyoilthatgivesthedishonhereitsfireaperfectcomplementtothesweettenderham

EcclesCakeswithDorsetBlueVinnySauce

TherelationshipbetweensweetandsavouryisaninterestingoneSaltmakessweetingredientstastelessone-dimensionalsoyouperceivethemasbeingmoreflavourfulthantheyreallyarePerhapsthemostcommonexampleofthecombinationisourlong-standingtraditionofeatingcheesewithfruitNoonewouldraiseaneyebrowifyousuggestedaccompanyinganuttyRussetapplewithasliceofCheddarInYorkshirendashandinsomepartsofAmericandashservingapplepiewithapieceofcheeseiscommonplaceThisdishsprangfromtheBritishtraditionofpairingEcclescakeswitha

sliceofLancashirecheeseWestartedexperimentingwithanEcclescakerecipewhenweweretryingtofindsuitablepuddingsforasherryandgamenightattherestaurantWethoughtDorsetBlueVinnywouldbeaworthylocalalternativetoLancashirecheeseasitisequallycreamyyethasmoredepthHavingworkedoutthecorrectcheese-to-sherryratioforthesauce

depthHavingworkedoutthecorrectcheese-to-sherryratioforthesaucewepoureditovertheEcclescakesthathadjustcomeoutoftheovenhopingtheresultwouldbemorethanpalatableItworkedremarkablywellandhasbecomeourWestCountryversionofthetraditionalnortherndishWefeaturethisdessertregularlyonourdaytimemenuandfindthatsome

customersapproachitwithadegreeofnervousnessButweareyettomeetanyonewhodoesnotthoroughlyenjoyitswell-balancedquirkinessThesaucehasbecomesopopularthatcustomersoftenrequestitasanaccompanimenttowhichevercakehappenstobeonthedessertmenuWemustobservethatnoteverycakeisentirelycompatiblewiththesaucebutwhoarewetocurtailourcustomersrsquoinventiveness

MAKES14CAKES50gbutter90gdarksoftbrownsugar1frac34teaspoonsgroundmixedspice(seehereifyoursquodliketomakeyourown)270gcurrants

50gCandiedPeel(seehereorusegood-qualityboughtpeel)finelychopped1quantityofFlakyPastry(seehere)orgood-qualityshop-boughtpuffpastry1egglightlybeaten

demerarasugarforsprinkling

FORTHEDORSETBLUEVINNYSAUCE

250mldoublecream100gcastersugar40gDorsetBlueVinnycheese(orSticheltoncheese)crumbled50mlsweetsherrysuchasPedroXimeacutenezorBristolCream

Tomakethesauceputthecreamsugarcheeseandsherryinapan(includehalfthecurrantsifyouwanttoenrichtheflavouroftheEcclescakes)andheatgentlyuntilthecheesehasmeltedandthesauceissmoothStrainthroughasieveandsetaside(reservethecurrantsfortheEcclescakes)Thesaucecanbekeptinthefridgeforupto2weeks

TomaketheEcclescakesplacethebuttersugarandmixedspiceinasaucepanandheatthroughgentlystirringoccasionallyuntilthesugarhasmeltedintothebutterRemovefromtheheatandstirinthecurrants

meltedintothebutterRemovefromtheheatandstirinthecurrants(includingtheonesusedforthesauce)andthecandiedpeelSetasidetocool

Heattheovento180degCGasMark4TakethepastryoutofthefridgeandsetitonalightlyflouredsurfacewithoneoftheshortendsnearestyouRollouttoabout3mmthickUsingan11cmpastrycuttercutoutasmanyroundsasyoucanDividethefillinginto40gportionsandplaceoneportioninthecentreofeachcircleofpastryThismayseemlikealotbutitmakessensewhenyouareeatingthecakesNextyouneedtoenclosethecurrantmixtureinthepastryThiscanbequitetrickybutyouwillfindatechniquethatworksafteralittleplayingWedoitbypinching4lsquocornersrsquoofthecircletogetheroverthecurrantmixtureandthengentlyfoldingintheexcesspastryWhereyouarepinchingthepastrytogetherwillbetheundersidesoaslongasthefillingiscompletelyencloseditdoesnrsquotneedtolookperfectThepastryshouldsealitselfbutifnecessarybrushitverylightlywithwater

PlacetheEcclescakestherightwayupontheworksurfaceandshapeeachoneintoaneatroundwithaflattopThismayrequireasmallamountofmanipulatingUsingasharpknifeslash3horizontallinesacrossthetopLightlybrushthetopoftheEcclescakeswithbeatenegganddustwithdemerarasugarBakefor18minutesoruntilthepastryisgoldenbrownandcookedallthewaythroughTransfertoawireracktocoolfor10minutesthenservewiththesauceDingdangdoo

daggerMadefromthemilkthatisleftafterskimmingoffthefattomakebutterDorsetBlueVinnyisathriftywartimecheesebornoutoftheneednottowasteanythingItretainsitscreaminessbyreintroducingsemi-skimmedmilkpowdertothemilkonceitreachestheappropriatetemperatureLegendhasitthatthebacteriausedtobeintroducedbydraggingmouldyhorseharnessesthroughthemilkbeforeaddingtherennetandstoringthecheeseondampbagsnexttomouldybootsSadlyitisboringpenicillinbywayofblue-mouldsolutionnowadays

MilkStoutandChocolateSteamedPudding

ThisrecipeisacombinationoftwoofourfavouritethingsmilkstoutandaBritishsteamedpuddingWhenwefirstopenedTheEthicureanwedrankBristolBeerFactoryrsquoschilledmilkstoutonthelawnoverlookingthegardenIthadthemostremarkablebalanceofsweetnessandroastmaltthatwehadevertastedSincethisboozysummereveninglsquomilkstoutonthelawnrsquohasbecomeshorthandforlsquoHurryupletrsquosgoandhaveabeerrsquoMilkstoutwasfirstbrewedontheBristolBeerFactorysiteinthe1900s

anditsrecentrevivalwasanexcellentmoveDuringthebrewingprocessunfermentablelactosesugarisaddedgivingthebeeraresidualsweetness

unfermentablelactosesugarisaddedgivingthebeeraresidualsweetnessThispuddingservedwithaninappropriateamountofdoublecream

shouldberegardedasanewBritishclassic

SERVES6160mlBristolBeerFactoryrsquosmilkstout150gbuttercutintocubes235gcastersugar45gcocoapowder160gplainflour85mlsouredcream1largeegg2tspvanillaextract1frac12tspbicarbonateofsodadoublecreamtoserve

PlacethemilkstoutandbutterinasaucepanoverthelowestpossibleheatandwhiskuntilthebutterhasjustmeltedItisimportantnottooverheatthemixtureorthebutterwillsplitresultinginanoilypuddingAddthesugarandstiruntildissolved

Siftthecocoapowderandflourintothemixturein2lotswhiskingthoroughlyaftereachtoblendwellSetaside

LightlywhiskthesouredcreameggvanillaandbicarbonateofsodatogetheruntilcombinedAddthistothestoutandflourmixtureandwhiskbrieflytoincorporateoncemore

Thoroughlygreasea12litrepuddingbasinwithbutterAddthepuddingmixtureTakeapieceoffoillargeenoughtocoverthetopofthebasingenerouslyfoldingathickpleatinthecentre(thiswillallowthepuddingtoexpandduringsteaming)andplaceitonthebasintuckingtheedgesfirmlyundertherimPutthebasininasteamerbasketandsetitoverapancontainingabout10cmboilingwaterCoverandsteamoveralowheatfor2hourscheckingthewaterlevelevery30minutesandtoppingupwhennecessary

Removethebasinfromthesteamerandleavetostandfor5minutesTake

Removethebasinfromthesteamerandleavetostandfor5minutesTakeoffthefoilrunaknifearoundtheedgeofthepuddingthenturnitoutontoaplateYoursquollneedplentyofcreamasthispuddingisseriouslythirsty

PedroXimeacutenezandWhiskywithVermouthSmoke

EveryyearweholdasherryandgamenightpairingvarioussherrieswithatastingmenuofgamePedro-Ximeacutenez(PX)isalwaysthefavouritesherryandwelovepairingitwithEcclescakes(seehere)ThisvelvetysherryisthecolourofdarkwoodandwithitsraisinandcaramelflavourstastesalmostlikeChristmaspuddinginliquidformCombiningPXwithawhiskysuchasMacallan10YearOldFineOakandalittlevermouthsmokecreatesatotallyuniquecocktailEvenafterthelastfewdropshavebeendrunkmanycustomersaskforthedecantertostayonthetablesothattheycanbreatheinthelastofthetreaclesmoke

SERVES2100mlPX(welikeBodegasGutierrezColosiaPedroXimeacutenez)50mlwhisky(welikeMacallan10YearOldFineOakwhisky)

TOMAKEICESPHERES

WashlongballoonsoutbeforefillingthemwithwaterTieofftheballoonsandthenusestringtoseparatethemintothesizeofspherethatyouwouldlikeRememberthattheywillexpandastheyfreezeUsingdistilledwaterwillmeanthattheiceiscompletelyclearbuttheystilllookimpressivewhenmadewithtapwater

JackusesasmokeguntomakethisdrinkChillthePXandwhiskybystirringtogetherwithiceinamixingglassNextfilladecanterwithsmokeJackusesoakchipsthathavebeenusedtooakourVermouth(seehere)andthendriedPourthechilledliquidintothedecanterandpopinthestopperThesmokeshouldgraduallyformadensecloudPourintosmallglassesfilledwithplentyofice(weliketoputanicesphereineachglassseeleft)

Ifyoudonothaveaccesstoahandsmokeryoucanmakethisdrinkinabarbecuesmoker(seeTinCanandSolderingIronApproachhere)Placethedrinkinacontainerwithasmuchsurfaceareaaspossibleandleavetosmokefor1hour

NOTEWehaveexperimentedwithupscalingthisrecipeandbottlinglargerquantitiesthenleavingtomature(theNegronionherealsoupscales

wonderfully)WereuseSipsmithrsquosginbottles(thanksSipsmith)AtthetimeofwritingwehaveabottleofthiscocktailthatwasmixedthreemonthsagoWehavenoticedarealdevelopmentinthecomplexitiesofflavourastheelementsbegintofeatherinitbecomesdifficulttosensewhereonecomponentendsandanotherbegins

FennelSeedandGingerHotChocolate

WefirsttastedthiscombinationofchocolateherbandspiceattheAbergavennyFoodFestivalOurstallhappenedtobenexttothatofthechocolatierPaulAYoungandheverykindlygaveusafewofhiscreationstotasteWewerestruckbythesweetfragrantalmostmedicinalqualityofhismilkchocolatewithfennelseedandgingerOncethecoldweathercaughtupwithusatTheEthicureanweexperimentedwithafewhotchocolaterecipesandsettledonthisonewhichwethinkcapturestheessenceofPaulrsquosideaRomanescofennelseedsareharvestedatBarleyWoodwhentheseed

headsturnbrownThewholeheadscanbeputinapaperbagtodryAfterafewweeksastrongshakewilldeposittheseedsatthebottomofthebagTheseseedsareattheirabsolutebestwhentheyarestillalittlegreenTomakethefennelsugarwhizequalquantitiesofgranulatedsugarandfennelseedstogetherinablenderorfoodprocessorItcanbeaddedtoallsortsofdesserts

SERVES2COMFORTABLY

400mlmilk100gdarkchocolatewith70ndash73percentcocoasolidsgratedplusalittleextratofinish(weuseOriginalBeanschocolate)1tspgroundginger

20gdarkmuscovadosugarapinchofsalt2tspfennelsugar100mldoublecream

Gentlyheathalfthemilkinapanandaddthegratedchocolategingermuscovadosugarsaltandmostofthefennelsugar(saveapinchforsprinkling)StiruntilthechocolatehasmeltedintothemilkthenwhiskintheremainingmilkandthecreamDonotallowthemixturetoboilbutbringittoacomfortabledrinkingtemperatureIfyouhaveahandblendersubstitutethisforawhiskeitherwayforafrothyheadagoodamountofwhiskingisneeded

Servesprinkledwiththeremainingfennelsugarandafewshardsofchocolate

IfyouhaveaccesstoanespressomachinecombinethegratedchocolatewiththegingersugarsaltfennelandjustenoughmilktomakeathickpastethenheatitusingthesteamwandWarm2mugsandpourthethickspicedchocolateintothemSteamtheremainingmilkwiththecreaminametaljugusingthesteamwandThetrickistointroduceenoughsteamnearthesurfaceofthemilktocreateawhirlpoolthisshouldgenerateverylittlenoiseKeepahandcuppedaroundthesteamingjugWhenitistoohottoholdcomfortablystopsteamingTapthejugontheworktopseveraltimestopopanysurfacebubblesandthenswirltominimiseanyseparationbetweenfoamandliquidPourthisglossymilkontothethickchocolateAfteralittlepracticeitisrelativelysimpletocreateafewpatternsThissteamingprocesswillcreatethemicro-foamneededtomakeasilkyhotchocolate

RecipeList

NettleSoupwithCaerphillyStGeorgersquosMushroomswithAsparagusRibwortPlantain

MushroomJellyandAppleJellySweet-cureMackerelwithMorelsSpeltSodaBreadand

HorseradishAsparaguswithToastedSesameandHollandaiseSauce

ClearHamHockBrothwithPoachedEggsCaerphillyandCiderWelshRabbit

SmokedChipotleChilliesSmokedRoeDeerLoinwithWildRocketClampedCarrots

HoneyedWalnutsandWoodSorrelCurdCheeseCucumberFlatBeanAniseedandSesame

CrabSaladwithNewPotatoesPickledCarrotandSmokedPaprikaMayonnaise

SpringRadisheswithAnchovyCregravemeFraicheTroutwithKelpandShiitakeMushroomStockRiceFlatBeans

andSeaKaleGoatMeatballsMashLovageButterandMustardGreens

OxTonguewithSwedeParsleyandCiderVinegarOxTonguewithCauliflowerGilliflowerandHazelnuts

SaltMarshLambwithTidalGreensSteamedRabbitPudding

PorkJuniperandBlackIPAPiePearlBarleywithOldDemdikeandStGeorgersquosMushroom

RhubarbandCustardChocolateandSaltCaramelBrownieswithCherryand

ElderflowerSauceElderflowersyrup

StrawberryandRoseLemonadePuddingwithSaffronandCiderBrandyCustard

TheEthicureanVermouthBotanicalsVermouth

RoseLemonadeTheEthicureanCocktail

Negroni

SPRINGINTHEWRINGTONValehasauniquefeelThereisasenseofimminentactivitythatmomentbeforesomebodytellsyousomethingtheyhavekeptsecretforalongtime

ColourcomesfirstandthedaffodilsarestilloutinlateMarchbetweentheoutsidewallandthelowerorchardthickyellowcarpetsintheshadowsoftheappletreesJackisoutstalkingroedeerwithAlanDownagoodfriendandexperiencedstalkerbeforethenewshootsandleavesprovidetoomuchcoverDuringspringmorningsbeforeserviceMatthewandIainrolldownthesleevesoftheirchefrsquoswhitesandpickyoungnettleshootswithglovedhandsCarriedupthroughthegardeninapplecratesthenettlesarecarefullycleanedandendupasabrightgreensoupLumpsofGorwyddCaerphillyarefloatedonthesurfacemeltingtoanirresistiblegelatinoustexture

KaleradishesandrainbowchardareallreadyWefrythekaleinahotpanwithplentyofcidervinegarandsaltMarkplantstheradishesasacompanionplantbetweentherowsofgarlicWeslicetheseredrootsintosaladsndashsomearefieryandneedacoolingsomethingtosubduetheirheatTherubychardrequireslittlecookingandissmotheredunderagenerousmeasureofhollandaiseasabreakfasttreat

AsspringcontinuesonitspaththebluebellsflowerreplacingtheyellowdaffodilsTheyareadeepvioletblueNotmanypeopleknowthattheVictorianswouldstiffentheircollarswithcrushedbluebells

NexttheblossomcomesasuresignofthenewseasoneachblossomapotentialfruitFirstuparetheplumsanddamsonsTheseguardthewestwallsprayedoutwardsontheircanedespaliersPearsandcherriesquicklyfollowwhileapplesareslowerblossominginAprilQuincecomesnextweareproudofoursingletreewhichprovidesuswithenoughfruitformembrilloallyearlongMedlarsarelastcream-colouredflowersthatwillbecomeuglyfruitbutwithexcellentflavourPaulacanbefoundwalkingbetweenthetreesforecastingourfuturecropandthebumblebeesareoutfor

betweenthetreesforecastingourfuturecropandthebumblebeesareoutfornectar

AprilcanmeanonlyonethingtheasparagusseasonWepatrolthebedsatBarleyWoodkeeneyeshuntingforthefirstelusivespearstopushuptheirtightcrisptipsThispreciouscropisdevouredwithpoachedeggsorstraightfromthepanwithplentyofbutter

StGeorgersquosDaymarksthetimetolookforStGeorgersquosmushroomsTheonlyforagedmushroomsafetobeeatenrawithasanaturalflavourcompanionintheformofribwortplantainThisseedheadfoundinourorchardisafirmfavouriteofoursandthetwotogethermakeawonderfulseasonaldelicacy

MayheraldstheyellowflowersofmeadowvetchlingandcreepingcinquefoilfavouritesofthegrizzledskipperbutterflyPrimrosesarealsofloweringintheshadeoftheBramleytrees

InJunetheherbgardenlooksbeautifulWepinchoutthenewgrowthtomakebotanicalteasforourhousevermouthMarkrsquosstrawberriesbegintocropandweuseupthelastjarofthepreviousseasonrsquosjaminourroselemonadesteamedpuddingThejampanissetfirmlybackonthestove

NettleSoupwithCaerphilly

Thissouprsquosstrikingemeraldcolour(nettleshaveoneofthehighestlevelsofchlorophyllinthevegetablekingdom)mightleadyoutothinkofitasalightstarterDonotbefooledItisanextremelywholesomesoupthatcouldhelpyourunamarathonRomansoldiersaresaidtohavebroughttheirownsupplyofnettlestoBritainasarichsourceofproteintofuellongmarchesinthecoldwetclimatePerhapsthatiswhythissoupissopopularwithstaffattherestaurantwhenonbusyspringdaysyouwillcatchusallsippingamugofittokeepusgoingTheCaerphillyaddsacreamytextureWefavourGorwyddCaerphilly

madebyourfriendstheTrethowanfamilyattheirfarmsituatedbetweenLampeterandAberystwythItisoneofourall-timefavouriteBritishcheesesandweconsideritsWelshrabbitcapabilitiestobeunrivalled(seehere)Oysterspairremarkablywellwithnettlesandwersquodrecommendserving

thissoupwithoystersdroppedintoitatthelastmomentThereisanionicqualitytothemboththatjustsingswhentheyareeatenincombinationAchunkofbreadwithapatofsaltedbutterisalsoanexcellentaddition

SERVES4

alittlevegetableoil500gonionsthinlysliced250gceleriaccutintosmallcubes250gcarrotscutintosmallcubes1litrefishstockorvegetablestock(seehere)100ndash120gnettletipsfreshlypicked(theymustbeveryyoung)200gCaerphillycheesepreferablyGorwyddcutintosmallcubesrapeseedoilfordrizzlingseasalt

PlacealargepanoveramediumheatAddathinfilmofvegetableoilfollowedbytheonionsceleriacandcarrotsCoverandsweatforabout5minutesuntilthevegetableshavestartedtosoftenbutarenotcolouredAddthestockbringtoasimmerandcookuntilthevegetablesaresoftTheyshouldbesoftenoughtoblitzeasilyanythingbeyondthathoweverandtheflavourwillbegintodull

flavourwillbegintodull

TransferthesouptoablenderinbatchesthatfillitnomorethanhalffullandblitzuntilsmoothaddingthenettleswiththefinalbatchPourthroughafinesieveintoacleanpanChecktheconsistencyofthesoupifyouwouldpreferalooserfinishstirinalittlemorestockSeasonwithseasalttotasteandreheatverygentlyifthenettlesareheatedfortoolongtheyturnaveryunappealingshadeofdarkgreenServeinlargebowlsgarnishedwiththecubesofCaerphillyandatinydrizzleofrapeseedoil

daggerThebasetothissoupiswhatisknownasamirepoixAmirepoixreferstoonionscelery(orinthiscaseceleriac)andcarrotsintheratioof211ItisaveryclassicstartingpointincookeryandresultsinanoveralltastethatisgreaterthanthatofitsworthyingredientsWeoftenusethisratioofvegetablesforstocksandbasesofsauces

MUSHROOMS

WhenweopenedtherestaurantwereliedonseveralprofessionalforagerstobringussteadysuppliesofmushroomsWecannotemphasiseenoughtheimportanceofusingexpertsinyourownlearningprocessIfyouareeverindoubtaboutthetypeofmushroomyouhavefounddonottakeachanceTheconsequencescanbefatalItisacommonmistaketoforgetoneofthefinestwild

mushroomsnativetoBritainndashStGeorgersquosmushroomTheyarefoundaround23AprilStGeorgersquosDayandareavailableuntilearlyJuneTheirdistinctivearomahasbeenaptlydescribedasthesmellofBritishfieldsThismakesperfectsenseastheyoftenforminaringcompletelyhiddenunderlonggrassIfyoufindtheirsmelloverwhelmingpleasedonrsquotgiveuponthemWeareconvincedthattheytastebestwheneatenrawsotrythesmalleronesfirstasthesmelldevelopswithageandyoumightfindthemlesspungentFailingthatifyoucookthemtheirscentisgreatlycamouflagedWehaveheardthatsomerestaurantsfeelnervousabouthavingthemonthemenuyetwithexpertidentificationtherereallyisnoreasontodepriveyourselfofsuchaninterestingdelicacyStGeorgersquosistheonlyforagedmushroomthatcanbeserved

rawandwewouldalwaysadviseyoutocookothervarietiesInitiallyrawStGeorgersquostasteoffreshcucumberbuttheflavourdevelopsintosomethingmoreakintomelontowardstheendWeservethemwithasparagusandribwortplantainanotherforagedplantthatiseasytofindasitgrowscommonlyonlawnsandgreenareasSadlyitisnowconsideredaweedbutpleasehelpusreintroduceittoBritishcookingItiseasytoidentifythebulbshaveelongatedkernel-liketipsandonceyouspotititisimpossibletomissItinitiallytastesslightlybitterbutthisdevelopsintoanuttywoodyflavourndashoftenlikenedtothatofcepmushroomsndashthattiesinperfectlywiththeearthywoodland

notesoftheStGeorgersquosFormoreofourthoughtsaboutmushroomsseehere

StGeorgersquosMushroomswithAsparagusRibwortPlantainMushroomJellyandAppleJelly

WeusedtoforageformushroomsasoftenaspossiblebeforemovingtotheWalledGardenAlwaysladenwithtoomanybooksonthesubjectwewouldsetoutwithourlurcherhopingtotrainhertofindsomedelicaciesOurlackofexperiencemusthaverubbedoffonherasshewasmoreinterestedinstickspineconesandsquirrelsGraduallywelearnedtoidentifychickenofthewoodsparasolsandbeefsteakfungusForagingbecameoneofourfavouriteautumnalactivitiesAtfirstwetravelledfurtherawaythanweneededinourquesttobecomeamateurmycologistsWithtimethoughwelearnedthevaluablelessonthatthebestingredientsareusuallytobefoundonyourdoorstep

SERVES4

abunchofasparagus20smallribwortplantainflowerheads1tspmintleavespreferablyspearmint12ndash16summerpurslaneleavesorothersaladleavesfineseasalt

FORTHEMUSHROOMJELLY

250gStGeorgersquosmushroomsapinchofsaltfrac12tspagaragarpowder

FORTHEAPPLEJELLY

250gapplejuicefrac12tspagaragarpowder

FirstmakethemushroomjellyRemovethestalksfromthemushroomsandsetthecapsasideCleanthestalksthoroughlyandthenchopfinelyPuttheminapancoverwith250gwaterandsimmerfor15minutesStrainthecookingliquorthroughafinesieveintoacleanpanpressingwiththebackofaspoontoextractitallDiscardthestalksMeasurethecookingliquorandaddadashmorewaterifnecessarytotakeitbackupto250gSeasonwith

addadashmorewaterifnecessarytotakeitbackupto250gSeasonwithsaltrememberingthatinthisinstancealittlegoesalongwayReturnthepantotheheatandstirintheagaragaruntildissolvedTheliquorneedstoboilbrieflytohydratetheagarandactivateitsgellingpropertiesPourintoasmallplasticboxWeuseonethatgivesafinaldepthofabout1cmsowecancutthejellyintocubesbutfeelfreetoexperimentLeavetocoolthenplaceinthefridgeuntilsetItwillkeepfor4days

FortheapplejellyheatthejuiceinapanstirintheagaragarandbringtotheboiluntildissolvedLeavetocoolandthensetinaplasticboxasdescribedabove

TrimtheasparagusbyfindingthenaturalpointwherethestalksnapsclosetothebaseandbreakingitoffHaveapanoffast-boilingsaltedwaterreadyandabowloficedwatertooCooktheasparagusintherapidlyboilingwaterforupto2minutesbutnomoreRemovethespearsandchillthemintheicedwatertheywillretaintheirbrightgreencolour

Finelyslicethereservedmushroomcapsandlaythemon4platesDustwithfineseasaltLaytheasparagusspearsontopofthemushroomsCutthejellyintosmallcubesandaddateaspoonofeachflavourtoeachplatealongwiththeribwortflowersmintleavesandpurslaneEncouragementforallamateurmycologists

Sweet-cureMackerelwithMorelsSpeltSodaBreadandHorseradish

ThecombinationofmackerelaniseedandhorseradishoffersawiderangeofflavoursThecurestopsthemackerelinitstrackspreservingafreshionicsnapshotoftheoceanHorseradishisafamiliarcompaniontomackerelsinceitswarmthisgoodwithoilyfishInterestinglyfishareattractedtothesmellofaniseedaswellastastingsuperbwithitMackerelareadelicatefishthatspoilquicklysochooseline-caughtones

andmakesuretheyareveryfreshThesmalloneswiththebrightesteyesarebestandareoftencheaperthanthelargerfishTheflavourofmorelmushroomsisextraordinaryndashreminiscentofthe

richnessofbeefThemushroomsreleasesporesthatarepickedupandcarriedbythewindSearchingformorelsisadeeplyengrossingtasksowatchoutforlowhangingbranchesasyouhuntWehavefoundthemunderashandsycamoretheyfavourdyinganddeadelmsTheyhavehollowfruitingbodiesandahoneycombstructureBewareoffalsemorelsknownasElfinSandalsThehorseradishsauceisausefulstandbythatcomesoutwheneverwe

haveleftoversirloinorbrisketItrsquosalsoverygoodoncoldlambsmokedfishandhamandexemplaryeatenwithSalt-bakedBabyBeets(seehere)andoxtongueDiguptherootofahealthyhorseradishwashawayresidualsoilandpeeltherootYouwilllikelybeleftwith50ndash100g(Ajarofgratedhorseradishisafinesubstitute)WhengratedhorseradishreleasesacompoundcalledsinigrinandenzymesitmeetsintheairimmediatelybreakthisdowntoformmustardoilThearomaisguaranteedtohaveyouinrabbinicallyintensetearsOursmallkitchenbecomesariotoffauxwailingandlaughterwheneverwepreparethisThetaskisnowseenasanaidtocamaraderieandteambuilding

SERVES44mackerelfilletspinbonesremoved10gdriedmorelmushrooms(orceps)400mlcidervinegar1tablespoonaniseed300gcastersugar

300gcastersugarfineseasalt

FORTHESPELTSODABREAD

200gbrownspeltflour200gwhitespeltflour50gfineoatmeal(oruseporridgeoatsthathavebeenblendeduntilfine)1tspbicarbonateofsoda1tspsalt1tbsphoney375mlbuttermilk(ifunavailablemix25mlwhitevinegarwith350mlmilkandleavetorestfor5minutes)

25gbuttermelted

FORTHEHORSERADISHSAUCE

1horseradishrootfinelygrated2tbspcidervinegar4tbspcregravemefraicirccheorsouredcream1teaspoonchoppedchives1teaspoonchiveflowersseasalt

Laythemackerelfilletsflesh-sidedownonabedoffineseasaltandchillfor2hourstocurethenrinseThisgivesafirmer-fleshedresult

Rehydratethemushroomsbysteepingtheminnear-boilingwaterwithasplashofthevinegarfor10minutesStrainreservingtheliquorandthencheckeachoneisfreeofsoilandsandTheliquorthatremainswillbedelicatelysmokyandtrulyflavoursome

WarmtheaniseedthroughinadrypanuntilitspitsandcracksthencarefullypourthemushroomliquorintothepanleavinganyresidueofsoilorsandbehindItwillboiluprapidlyasithitsthehotpansotakecareatthispointTheevaporationwillintensifytheflavourofthemushroomstockAddthevinegarandheatthroughthenaddthesugarandstiruntildissolvedAddthemorelmushroomsandremovefromtheheatAllowthismixturetocoolthenpouritoverthefishfilletsPlaceinthefridgeforatleast2hours

coolthenpouritoverthefishfilletsPlaceinthefridgeforatleast2hoursandupto6hoursThesimple-to-makespeltsodabreadcanfillthisgapquitecomfortably

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6MixallthedryingredientsforthebreadtogetherinalargebowlthenmakeawellinthecentreAddthehoneybuttermilkandmeltedbuttertothewellandmixwithawoodenspoonuntilwellcombinedPutthedoughintoa900gloaftin(ora23cmspringformcaketin)linedwithbakingparchmentandplaceintheovenBakefor15minutesthenreducetheoventemperatureto160degCGasMark3andbakefor30minuteslongerTurntheloafoutontoateatowelandtapthebaseitshouldsoundhollowIfnecessaryreturntotheovenforafewminuteslongerCooltheloafonawirerackcoveringitwithateatowelifyoupreferasoftcrust

CombinethegratedhorseradishvinegarandapinchofseasaltStrainthroughasievediscardingtheliquidthencombinewiththecregravemefraicirccheorsouredcreamSeasontotastewithsaltandtopwiththechivesandthepurple-huedchiveflowersThesweetaniseandmorelmackerelcannowbeliftedfromitssouseandservedwithchunksofbutteredsodabreadandtheirresistiblehorseradish

AsparaguswithToastedSesameandHollandaiseSauce

InaquietcornerbeyondthegardenwallsshelteredononesidebyasetofimposingcobnuttreesandguardedontheotherbydenseVictorianbayhedgesyouwillfindoneofourfavouriteingredientsgrowingsilentlyinitssandybedFormostoftheyeartheasparagusbedslookdesolateandgreylikeminiaturedunesinsomeforeignlandTheirdrabappearancemeansthattheyareoftenoverlookedbyvisitorstotheWalledGardenHowevertheyareregularlydisturbedbysquirrelstryingtoburythecobnutstheyhavelaboriouslycollectedfromtheneighbouringtreesWhentheasparagusspearsbegintogrowandweseetheirshyheadsstartingtopokeoutitisanintenselysatisfyingfeelingThenewsthattheasparagusisreadyforpickingtravelsfastwhichisprobablywhyitisinvariablytheitemwerunoutoffirstonthemenuNothingreallypreparesyouforthetasteofasparagusfreshlypickedfromthegarden

pickedfromthegardenUnfortunatelytheoriginalasparagusbedsattheWalledGardendidnot

survivethehardyearswhenthegardenwasallowedtofallintodeepdisrepairReplicasoftheoriginalswerebuiltin1999ThebedsareunusualbecausetheyareraisedndashafeaturethathelpsstoptherootsdrowninginsoddenclaysoilThevarietyisunknownbutwedoknowthattheywereplantedwiththeemphasisonflavourratherthansizeMatthewisconvincedthatasithasanunusualpurpletingetothetipandwhitebaseitmustbeFormbyasparagusfromFormbyinMerseysideWethinkhejustmissesthenorthwestalittlebuttheydobothlovesandysoilsoperhapsheisontosomethingTobeabletocutfreshasparagusfromthecornerofthegardeneverymorningandshareitwithourcustomersisoneofthethingsthatmakesusfeelveryluckytobealiveWechoosetoscattertoastedsesameseedsoverthisdishastheyaddasoftnuttycrunchtoadelicateingredientPeopleareoftenputoffbytheseemingcomplexityofhollandaisesauce

butthemethodoverleafoffersaneasywaytoachieveaconsistentresulteverytimeWeflavouritwithvintagecidervinegarinsteadofthemoretraditionallemonjuiceandfinditaddsanewdepthandaslightlyoakytasteWealsousesaltedbutterratherthanunsaltedOurfavouriteisMarylandwhichisproducedinSheptonMalletrelativelyclosetousandisquitesaltywithroughlytwopercentsaltWefindthatthesaltinessofthebutterbalancestheinherentacidityofthevinegarAlternativelyyoucoulduseanunsaltedbutterandseasontotastewithfineseasalt

SERVES4

2tbspsesameseeds4sprigsoftarragon20asparagusspearstrimmed

FORTHEHOLLANDAISESAUCE

3eggyolks1tbspvintagecidervinegarsuchasOstlerrsquos125gchilledsaltedorunsaltedbuttercutinto1cmcubesseasalt

Firstmakethehollandaisesaucefillasaucepantwo-thirdsfullwithwaterandbringtoarapidboilPuttheeggyolksandvinegarinaheatproofbowlandwhiskforabout1minuteuntilpaleandfluffyTakethepanofboiling

andwhiskforabout1minuteuntilpaleandfluffyTakethepanofboilingwaterofftheheatandsetthebowloveritensuringthebaseofthebowlisnottouchingthewaterQuicklyaddallthebuttertothebowlandwhisksteadilywithaballoonwhiskuntiltheheatfromthewatermeltsthebutterandcookstheeggsAfterafewminutesofconstantgentlewhiskingthehollandaisewillthickenWhenitistheconsistencyofathincustardtakethebowloffthepanandcontinuewhiskinguntiltheconsistencychangestothatofanimmaculatevelvetycustard

ToastthesesameseedsinafryingpanoveralowheatuntiltheyarelightgoldenbrownOncetheybeginbrowningtheycanburnveryeasilysokeepyoureyeonthemandstirregularlyforanevencolourRemovefromthepanandleavetocool

PlacethetarragoninapanlargeenoughtofitasteamerbasketontopAdd7ndash8cmofboilingwaterplaceonamediumheatandputthesteamerbasketonitWhenthewaterissimmeringaddtheasparagustothebasketcoverandsteamfor3ndash4minutesuntilthespearsaretenderbutretainabitofbite

Toserveplacethespearson4servingplatespouroverthehollandaiseandgarnishwiththetoastedsesamePoachedeggs(seehere)wouldmakeaworthyadditiontothisdelightfulstarter

ClearHamHockBrothwithPoachedEggs

ThisbrothisamarvellouslynourishingclearandbalancedliquidToachievesuchclarityweneedtoactlikewaterfollowingthepathofleastresistanceexercisingpatiencewegetwhereweneedandtherewardistwofoldwithstockasclearaswaterfromababblingmountainbrookandasdeepasPoseidonrsquosrealminflavourWhenthepoachedeggyolkisbrokenthedishchangesbeforeyoureyesandanewdepthofrichnessbecomesobvioustothetongueThebrothmustbemadewellinadvanceasithastobefrozensoonafter

its5hoursinthepanandthendefrostedovernightinthefridgeThismayseemalongprocessbutonceyoursquoveexperiencedtherewardsandknowwhatrsquosinstorethenexttimewillbeabreezeYouwillendupwithmorestockherethanyouneedforthisdishbutitkeepswellinthefreezerWecookharicotbeansinitanduseittorehydratedriedmorels(seehere)amongstotherthingsTheonlywaytogetperfectpoachedeggsistouseeggsasnewlylaidas

possibleWithinoneortwodaysisbestsobefriendsomeonewiththeirownpeepofchickensorconsideraidingthecommendableworkofTheBritishHenWelfareTrustbyrehomingsomebatterychickensyourselfandhavingaccesstotrulyfresheggseveryday

SERVES44veryfreshorganiceggscidervinegar150grainbowchardcuthorizontallyinto25cmstrips1lovageleaffinelyslicedseasaltandblackpepper4wildvetchtipsorpeashootstogarnish

FORTHEHAMHOCKBROTH

1hamhock1bayleaf1clove1staranise2peppercorns

2peppercorns2corianderseeds4lovageseeds(orfennelseeds)2parsleystalks100gonionsdiced50gcarrotdiced50gceleriacdiced

FirstmakethebrothWashthehamhockwellundercoldrunningwaterandplaceitinalargepanCoverwithcoldwaterbringtotheboilthenimmediatelydiscardthewaterandrinsethehockoncemoreThiswillremoveimpuritiesthatmightcloudthestocklateronPutthehockbackinthepanfillwithplentyofwatercoveringthehockcompletelyandbringbacktoagoodrollingsimmerAddthebayleafandspicesandsimmerfor2frac12hoursregularlyskimmingoffanyimpuritiesthatrisetothesurfaceTopupwithmorewaterifnecessarytokeepthehockcoveredMakessurethestockissimmeringwellsothetemperatureishighenoughtoextractthegelatinefromthemeat

After2frac12hoursaddthevegetablesandcookforanother2hoursmaintainingahealthyrollingsimmerandtoppinguptheliquidlevelasnecessaryRewardyourpatiencewithalittlesnippetofthemeltinglysofthockonceitisremovedfromitscookingliquorWorththewaitSetthehockasidetocoolalittleandstrainthestockthroughafinesieveintoalargebakingtinndashthewidesurfaceareawillallowittocoolrapidlyWhenthehockiscoolenoughtohandleprisethemeatawayfromthebonesandbreakitintomanageablepiecesLaythesepiecesoutonasimilarshallowtraytocoolquicklythencoverandrefrigerate

Youshouldhaveabout2litresofstockFreezeitin4tubsthenadayortwobeforeyouplantomakethesoupturnout2ofthefrozenblocksandwrapthemin2layersofmuslinPlacetheminasievesetoverabowllargeenoughtoholdthethawedstockthenputtheminthefridgeThegelatineimpuritiesandfatwillstaysolidinthemuslinatfridgetemperaturewhilethestockwillrunclearbelowResisttheurgetosqueezethemuslinitwilldraindryeventuallyThistechniqueyieldsabouthalftheinitialfrozen

weightofstockinfinishedclarifiedstockInourexperiencethisisalittletooconcentratedandwilltakeaboutathirdextrawater

TheeggscanbepoachedinadvanceofservingBringapanofwatertoalightsimmerthenturnofftheheatandleavefor2ndash3minutesThewatercandropaslowas80degCandstillcooktheeggCrackaneggontoalargeslottedspoonandshakeitgentlysothewateryalbumendrainsoffandthetightlyboundalbumenremainsonthespoonGentlydroptheeggintoaramekinandrepeatwiththeremainingeggsputtingeachoneinaseparateramekinSubmergethebaseofeachramekininthehotwaterthenturntheramekinoverandtipouttheeggLettheeggssitundisturbedfor3frac12ndash5minutesdependingonsizeTheaimistocookthewhitewhilekeepingtheyolkrunnyRemovetheeggsusingaslottedspooninthesameordertheywentinandlowerthemintoabowloficedwaterThiswillstopthecookingTheeggscanbepoachedinadvanceandkeptinthefridgefor2days

CommendyourselfasthebuildingofthedishbeginsHeatthebroththroughdilutingittotastewithaboutathirdofitsvolumeinwaterifnecessaryandseasoningwithasplashofcidervinegarandsomesaltTokeepthebrothclearwerecommendreheatingthehockandcookingthechardseparatelyinsimmeringwaterAddthehamtoapanofsaltedwaterandcookatagentlesimmerforaboutaminutethendrainBlanchthechardinthewaterforabout30secondsthendrainwellIfyouhavepoachedtheeggsinadvancereheatthembybringingapanofwatertoasimmerremovingitfromtheheatthendroppingtheeggsinandleavingfor1minuteArrangethehamchardandeggsin4bowlsandgarnishwiththelovageleafandapinchofsaltoneacheggGentlypourthehockbrothoverthemcracksomeblackpepperoverthedishanddresswiththevetchtipsorpeashoots

CaerphillyandCiderWelshRabbit

ThisisastapleatTheEthicureanandthesmellinthemorningastherabbitismadeisintoxicatingServedalongsideapileofMarkrsquossaladleavestheflavoursareacidicsweetsaltyrichandforemostsavouryManyrecipescallfortheinclusionofstoutorporter-stylebeersOursisverymuchaWestCountryaffairandwechoosePerryrsquosMorganSweetcideronaccountofitssweetacidicfruitinessbutanygoodmedium-sweetciderwillsufficeCiderpairsverywellwithCaerphillyWhilebeerwoulddominatethischeesersquoscitrusyandmushroomyearthinessthecidersingsinchorusThesciencebehindusingCaerphillyoramatureCheddarisvery

straightforwardwedonrsquotwantastringyWelshrabbitCheesessuchasEmmentalcontaincaseinmoleculesthatarelinkedbycalciumforminglongfibresndashessentiallythestringinstringycheeseGorwyddrsquoscitrusflavourindicatesahighlevelofaciditywhichremovessomeofthecalciumItsunctuoustexturemeansahighermoisturecontentthatwillseparatecaseinmoleculesAllinallitrsquostheperfectcheeseforrarebitMatureCheddarisagoodalternativeTheripeningenzymesareratherpartialtocaseinandtheydevouritpreventinganylongstring-likefibresforming

SERVES6alargeunslicedwhitetinloaf100gverysoftsaltedbutter(or100gbeefdrippingmelted)150mlmedium-sweetcider100mlsinglecream2tbspvintagecidervinegarsuchasOstlerrsquos2tbspWorcestershiresauce2pinchesofsmokedpaprika250gGorwyddCaerphilly(ifyoucanrsquotgetGorwyddanagedCheddarmakesthebestsubstitute)coarselygrated

2eggyolks(omitifusingCheddar)

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6Cuttheendsoffthewhiteloafandthendividetheloafinto6slicesThethicknessoftheslicesisoneofthefactorsthatmakesthisrabbitsoperfectwithacrunchyexteriorthatgiveswaytoabrilliantlysoftwhiteinteriorUsingapastrybrushlightlybrush

waytoabrilliantlysoftwhiteinteriorUsingapastrybrushlightlybrushtheverysoftbutter(orthemelteddripping)onbothsidesofthebreadPuttheslicesonabakingsheetandbakefor8minutesturningthemoverhalfwaythroughBothsidesshouldbeverylightlygoldenLeaveonawireracktocool

PutthecidercreamvinegarWorcestershiresauceandpaprikainanon-sticksaucepanplaceoveramediumheatandcookstirringregularlyuntilthemixturehasreducedtotheconsistencyofdoublecreamItshouldbeadeepshadeofbrownLowertheheatandaddthecheeseandtheeggyolksifusingStiruntilthecheesehasmeltedthenwhiskthesauceuntilverysmoothandglossyLeavetocoolandthickentoapasteconsistency

SpreadthemixtureedgetoedgeonthetoastedbreadReturnthemtotheovenfor4minutesthenplaceunderahotgrilluntilevenlybrownedEnjoywithageneroushelpingofdressedsaladleavesAsthelocalBristolianswouldsaylsquoGertlushrsquo

daggerRestingbetweenLampeterandAberystwythontheCeredigioncoastlineisGorwyddfarmtheplacewhereone-timearchaeologistToddTrethowandevelopedhisrecipeHebeganhischeesecareerafterlearningfromthegreatWestCountrycheesemakerChrisDuckettFinallyhemovedhiscampervanhomeduringhislsquocheeseapprenticeshiprsquoandreturnedtothefamilyfarmtomakeGorwyddCaerphillyTherearetwodistincttypesofCaerphillythefirstandoldestwasthecheesemadebyhandusingexcessmilkthatwouldhaveotherwiseturnedbadItwasafarmhousecheesetobeeatenafteradayinthefieldsThesecondbringsusbacktoSomersetandtotheCheddarmakerswhodesiredaquick-maturingcheesethatwouldenablehealthycash-flowduringthelongmaturationperiodsoftheirCheddar

SMOKING

HumanshavealwaysbeendrawntothehypnoticandtranquilqualitiesoffireTherearefewthingsthatwelovemorethansittingaroundafirewiththeclosestoffriendsandfamilyputtingtheworldtorightsoverabottleofwineFiresmeansmokeandsmokedfoodwasperhapsaby-product

ofdrying(seealsocuringhere)whenfoodwashungoverfiresandallowedslowlytodrythuspreservingthemeatfromrottingNowadaysfoodsthataretobesmokedundergoapreliminarystepofcuringbeforebeingsmokedSmokingisusedasanadditionalformofpreservationbutnotanessentialoneThesedayssmokingisusedforitsapplicationofflavourTherearetwomethodshotsmokingandcoldsmokingWith

theformerhotsmokefromafireiseitherdirectedintoasealedchamberthathousesfoodorachambercanbedirectlyplacedoversmokinglogsThemaingoalofhotsmokingistocookandpasteurisethemeatTemperaturesinsidethechambersusedtohousethefoodcommonlyreach80ndash110degCColdsmokingasthenamesuggestsusescoldsmoketo

flavourthefoodTraditionalmethodsuseasealedcontainerwithhooksfromwhichtohangfoodhowevertheheatsourceisseparateUsuallythefireishousedinaseparatechamberjoinedtothefoodchamberviasomepipingSmokeescapesfromthefireboxintothepipeandtravelsintothefoodchamberThefurtherthesmoketravelsthemoreitcoolsonitsjourneyThegoalofcoldsmokingwasoriginallytodryfoodGiving

microbeslesswaterinhibitstheirgrowthFoodsusedtobecoldsmokedforlongperiodsoftimeattemperaturessomewherearound20ndash30degChoweverthisposedalargeriskforthesafetyoffoodastheseareperfectconditionsformicrobialactivityCuringsaltswereoftenusedtopreventthisfromhappeningThankstotheinventionofthetrustyfridgetheprimaryreasonforcoldsmoking(preservation)islessimportantandwecannowutiliseitpurelyfortheflavouritadds

utiliseitpurelyfortheflavouritaddsThepointjustbeforewoodignitesistheperfectpointfor

smokingfoodasthisiswhenthetemperatureishighenoughtoremovethemoreunpleasantelementsthatcanbeinthesmokeWoodsmokingatcoolertemperaturescanoftentarnishfoodswithanacridlessfavourableflavourAnyhigherthanthisandthewoodwilligniteSmokingisadelicatebalancingactandtakesskilland

experienceIfyouhaveneverexperimentedwithsmokingbeforethenwerecommendtryingafewofthetechniqueslistedhereBewarnedthatitisanincrediblyaddictivehobbyandonceyoubegintorealisethevariablesanddifferentmethodsitcanbecomeanall-consumingobsessionndashsomethingthatMatthewandIainknowonlytoowellSincetheystartedsmokingwhatevertheycouldlaytheirhandsonthereisoftensomethingsmoulderingawayinthekitchenunderclosescrutinyIaincanoftenbeseenwieldingalargeblowtorchwithaslightlyexhaustedmaniclookinhiseyewhileMatthewtakesafewstepsbackcoveringuphischesthairfromthenakedflameWewillintroduceyoutoafewbasicsmokingmethodsthat

aregreatforthehomesmokerandwewillhighlighttheprosandconsforeachThereareentirebooksdevotedtothisvastandfascinatingsubjectandifthesemethodspiqueyourinterestwecanstronglyrecommendpurchasingone

TincanandsolderingironapproachJackhasexperimentedalotwiththismethodItisoneoftheeasiestandmostaccessibletothehomeuserhoweveritdoeshaveitsdrawbacksFirstthishastobedoneoutsideYouneedatincanthatisnotlacqueredontheinsideoldcondensedmilktinsareperfectPackdrywoodchipsintothecanandatthebaseofthecanonthesidemakeasmallincisionwithascrewdriverndashitshouldbelargeenoughforthetipofasolderingironPlacethetipofthesolderingironintheholeandturnonThenputboththecanandtheironinthebaseofasmallWeber-stylebarbecuewiththebarbecueshelfplacedoverthecanPointthecansothattheopeningisclosetothewallofthebarbecueandawayfromthemeatPlacethefoodyouwanttosmokeonthewireshelfon

themeatPlacethefoodyouwanttosmokeonthewireshelfontheoppositesidetothecanandpoponthelidClosealloftheventsonthebarbecueIfyouaresmokingmeatorfishwerecommenddoingitinhalf-hourincrementsYoucancheckontheinternaltemperatureofthebarbecuewithathermometerTakethemeatouttryalittleandseewhatyouthinkIfyouwantmoresmokethenplacebackinforanother30minutesFoodsthatneedtobecookedbeforetheycanbeeaten(raw

meatfishetc)shouldneverbesmokedformorethanfourhoursbutthenitisveryunlikelythatsmallcutsofmeatorfishwillrequirethislengthofsmokinginanycaseIfsmokingthesetypesoffoodsplacealargebowloficeunderthewirerackontheoppositesidetothecandirectlyunderthefoodstuffThiswillcoolthesmokedownsomemoreIfsmokingforlongperiodsoftimethechipsinthetincanwillneedreplacingevery6ndash8hourstoensureyougetthebestfromthistechniqueSomepeopleadvocatetheuseofacombinationofdampand

drywoodchipsbutwewouldstronglyrecommendifusingthismethodthatyouuseonlydrychipsEventhismethoddoesnotachievehighenoughtemperaturestoburnthemaincarcinogeniccomponentsofsmokeandcombiningdampwoodlowersthepyrolysistemperature(thetemperatureatwhichmoleculesinthewoodarebrokendown)andresultsinevenmoreacridandacidiccomponentsflavouringthefoodIfyouareattemptingthismethodsetupthebarbecuecloseto

adoorwayoronapatioTheoptimumtimeforsmokinglikethisisduringwinterasthecoolertemperaturesmeansaferconditionsIfsmokingonasunnydaythenkeepwellshadedThisisafairlyexperimentalapproachandonethatnottoomanypeopleknowaboutConsideringhoweasyitiswersquodliketogetpeoplehookedonsmokingthroughthesebasictechniquesbeforeencouragingfurtherexperimentationwithsomeofthetechniquesoverleaf

BlowtorchandicemethodAgainthisispracticalforthehomesmokerandallowsplentyofscopeforexperimentationInasmall-to-medium-sizedliddedroastingtrayplacewoodchipsorsawdustononesideofthebaseOntheoppositesideofthetrayplaceabowloficeIgnitethechipsordustthoroughlyusingablowtorchCulinaryblowtorcheswillnotcutthemustardonthisoneastheydonotgiveoffenoughheatyouwillneedaplumberrsquosone(askforacopperbrazingtorchatyourlocalplumbingsupplier)BesurenottobuyatorchthatrunsoffMAPPGasthesecontainadangeroustypeoffuelthatisnotsuitedforculinaryuseStartthewoodsmoulderingbeforeplacingawirerackontop

withthefoodonthencoveringwiththelidWeighdownthelidifitdoesnotformatightsealandleavefor30minutesRemovefromthesmokerandtestthefoodtoseeifitissmokyenoughforyourtasteYoucanalsousedifferenttypesofwoodforthismethodThe

boysinthekitchenhaveexperimentedwithsmokingbutterwithfreshbayleavesNotallofourexperimentshavebeensuccessfulndashinfactsomehavebeenappallingbutyouneverknowuntilyoutryWhilethismethoddoesachieveahottertemperaturethanthetincanitisstillnotaseffectiveatburningcarcinogensandacridcomponentsofsmokeassomeotherslightlymorecomplextechniques

HotpanmethodAlthoughthisessentiallyhotsmokesyourfoodyoucouldtrycombiningitwiththeprevioustechniquendashitsavesbuyinga

combiningitwiththeprevioustechniquendashitsavesbuyingablowtorchHeatupalargepanuntilsmokinghotAddathinlayerofwoodchipsandgetthemsmokingtooDecantthechipsintooneendofaliddedroastingtraywithabowloficeattheotherendFollowingtheremainingstepsforthepreviousmethod

SmokegunmethodAsmokegunisahand-helddevicethathousesasmallchambersimilartothatofasmokingpipeandcontainsafanYouloadthechamberwithsawdustorwoodchipslightthemandthenturnthefanonThefanpullsairthroughthechamberandfeedsoxygentothefireComingoutofthesmokegunisarubbertubethatallowsyoutodirectwhereyouwantthesmoketogoThismethodforthehomeuserisincrediblyeffectivePackthebaseofthechamberwithsawdustandlightuntilsmoulderingWhensmoulderingtopwithwoodchipsofyourchoiceandlightthewoodchipsWhileyoudothisturnthefanonThesmokefromthewoodpassesthroughahotbaselayerofsawdustthatburnsanyacridcomponentsofthesmokeWhatyouareleftwithisessentiallylsquogoodsmokersquothatwillflavouryourfoodinapositivewayTheonlycompanyweknowofthatmanufacturesasmokegunisPolyScienceSmokegunsretailaroundthepound50markandareavailableonlineUltimatelyexperimentingwithfoodandtechniquesshouldbe

funThecarcinogenicnatureofsmokehoweveritcomesisnothealthytohumanbeingssoweadvisetakingcareandlimitingtheamountsofsmokedfoodsyoueatThatsaidsometrulyspectacularflavourscanbeachievedandasalwaysweurgeyoutogetcreativelearnthebasicsandthenplayYoumayjuststumbleacrossacombinationortechniquethatshapesthefutureofcooking

SmokedChipotleChillies

ThechipotlechilliisajalapentildeothathasbeenlefttoripenontheplantitisthensmokedanddriedWealldevelopedaloveforthischillithroughPaucirclawhoregularlyreceivesdriedpackagesofthemfromMexicoHergrandmotherrsquoschipotlepickleisabsolutelyincredibleWesmokethewholechillieswiththeseedsinbutyoucantakethemoutifyoupreferamildersauce

20jalapentildeochillies(oranytypeofripechilli)

Werecommendusingabout15kgoffinewoodchipsndashoakorapplearegoodbutavoidresinouswoodsastheywilltainttheflavour

WhenyouarereadytosmokebeginbywashingthejalapentildeosFollowtheinstructionsforthetincanandsolderingironsmokingmethodonhereArrangethejalapentildeosontheoppositesidetothesmokingcanandthenclosethebarbecuelidIdeallyyouwanttosmokethejalapentildeosfor16hoursuntildarkandcrispEveryfewhourscheckthelevelofwoodinthecanandtopupasappropriateYoucanalsofinishdryingthechilliesinafanovenonabout50degCwiththedoorslightlyajarfan-assistedovensareperfectforthistask(Pleaseconsultoperatinginstructionsndashdisclaimer)StorethecooledsmokedchilliesinanairtightcontainerinacooldryplaceThechilliescanberehydratedinhotwatertheflavourisverystrongsolittleisneeded

SmokedRoeDeerLoinwithWildRocketClampedCarrotsHoneyedWalnutsandWoodSorrel

CuringtheloinmakesthemostofthispreciouscutWealsocoldsmokeitaddingextracomplexitytotheendresultThisstagecanbeleftoutifyoupreferEitherwayyouneedtopreparetheloinwellinadvanceasithastositinthecureforfivedaysTheoakchipsimpartaflavourthatcomplementstheblackcardamoma

spicethattastessmokedbecausethepodsaredriedoveropenflamesThesweetwalnutsbalancethesavourymeatWoodsorrelgrowsincarpetsonthewoodlandfloorandhasacitrustangthataddsacidityItalsogrowsinthedeerrsquoshabitatmakingitaveryfittingadditionindeed

SERVES4WITHPLENTYOFSPARELOINFORTHELARDER

1roedeerloinweighing1kgsilvermembraneremoved(askyourbutchertodothisforyou)

2handfulsofoakchipsforsmoking(orusethesmokegunmethodonhere)200gwildrocketalittlecidervinegar50gHoneyedWalnuts(seehere)2tablespoonswoodsorrel(orcultivatedsorrel)frac12tspfinelychoppedcrushedjuniperberries

FORTHECURE

6staranise6blackcardamompods2tbspjuniperberries1tbspblackpeppercorns35gfineseasalt15gdarkmuscovadosugar

FORTHECARROTANDBLACKCARDAMOMPUREacuteE

4blackcardamompods(seektheseoutinAsiansupermarketsasthesmokinessisveryvaluabletothechef)

200gcarrots(forclampedcarrotsseeopposite)sliced1ndash2tbsphoneyseasalt

Blitzalltheingredientsforthecuretogetherinafoodprocessororspice

BlitzalltheingredientsforthecuretogetherinafoodprocessororspicegrinderLaytheroeloinonalargepieceofclingfilmcoverwiththecuremixtureandrubitinthoroughlyleavingitinanevencoatingTightlywraptheloinintheclingfilmandplaceinthefridgefor5daysturningiteverydayorso

RemovetheloinfromthecuremixandrinseunderacoldtapmakingsureyouwashoffallthespicesHangthemeatinawarmwell-ventilatedarea(awarmpartofthekitchenorintheairingcupboardwilldo)for12hoursoruntilitiscompletelydrytothetouchndashatemperatureof25degCisidealsoadjustthetimeyouhangthemeataccordingly

InthemeantimeprepareyoursmokingboxfollowingtheBlowtorchandIcemethodonhere

PlacetheoakchipstoonesideofthebakingtrayOntheoppositesideplaceabowloficewithawirerackstooddirectlyaboveitPlacetheloinontherackUsingablowtorchheatthechipsstirringwithametalspoontoheatthemevenlyWhenthechipsareproperlyonfirecoverwiththefoilandweightdowntopreventsmokeescapingLeavefor30minutesThetimethattheloinsitsinsmokeisavariablethatcanbeplayedwithIfyoupreferasmokierflavourthenrepeattheprocesswithfreshwoodchipsOnceyouhavesmokedthemeattoyoursatisfactionremovefromthesmokerandchilluntilneeded

ForthecarrotandblackcardamompureacuteehalffillapanwithwateraddthecardamompodsandbringtoasimmerPutthecarrotsinasteamerbasketplaceontopofthepanthencoverandsteamfor35minutesuntilthecarrotsareverytenderindeedPureacuteeinablenderorfoodprocessorMixinthehoneyandsalttotasterememberingthatthisisthesweetcomponentofthisdishThinthepureacuteewithalittleofthesteamingliquorandblendagaintogiveavelvetytextureLeavetocoolthenchilluntilrequired

SlicetheroeloinfinelyatanangletomaximisethelengthofsliceDresstherocketincidervinegaralonethecarrotpureacuteewillprovideamplemoistureandsweetnesssonooilisrequiredPlacetherocketon4servingplatesandarrangetheroeloinwalnutsandsorrelontopthendotteaspoonsofthesmokedandhoneyedcarrotpureacuteethroughoutSprinklethejuniperberriesontoptofinishthissaporificdish

ontoptofinishthissaporificdish

WOODSORREL

OxalisAcetosellaOldEnglishAlleluiaThisdelicate-lookingplanthasaheart-shapedleafwithafolddownthecentrethesecordateleavesoccuringroupsofthreeFlowersappeararoundApriltoMaytheyarelilaccolouredwithdarkerveinsofthesamecolourAsthesundisappearswoodsorrelrsquosamorousleavesfoldtogethertomakeasmalltentshapeAtfirstlighttheyopenonceagainWeareluckytohaveseveralgoodspotsintheWestCountrywherewoodsorrelcanbefoundmoistandshadyplacesintypicallydeciduouswoodsWoodsorrellikestoshelterundermossandbrackenortheoddfallenlogItisalmostlemoninflavourandtheoxalicaciditcontainshastheeffectofstimulatingthesalivatoryglandsDonotpicktherootbutmakesureyoueatthewholestalkaswebelieveittobebettertastingthantheleafitself

CLAMPEDVEGETABLES

Clampingisanage-oldmethodofpreservationItsavestheautumncropofrootvegetablesandhasthebenefitofincreasingflavourandnutrientcontentAsanexamplecarrotswillincreasetheirvitaminAduringsixmonthsofstoringawayfromheatand

lightChefsareeversofondoftheseclampedrootsfortworeasonsTheincreaseinflavourandsweetnessisobviousbutmostimportantlytheyhavevegetablestomakevaluablestocks

throughthemonthsofFebruarytoMay

ToclampcarrotsbeetrootsparsnipsturnipsswedeceleriackohlrabiorpotatoesafewimportantstepsneedbefollowedYou

willneedafrost-freeshedorconcreteflooredgaragesomewoodentraysandagoodquantityofdampsandHarvestby

carefullyforkinguptherootsonadrydayinOctoberPickoutthelargerthick-coredandunblemishedrootsandtrimbackonlytheleavesInthecaseofbeetroottwisttheleavesratherthancuttopreventlsquobleedingrsquoanddonrsquotcutbackanygreencarrottopsastheyneedtoremainwholeRemoveanysoil(rubbingwithsandiseffective)andsendanydamagedorbrokenspecimenstothekitchenpost-hasteLaysandintothewoodentrayandplacetherootsinlayerstessellatingbutnottouchingCoverwithsandandrepeatuntilallarestoredUncovertherootsasneeded

takingcaretocoveranyremainingonesagainAcertainamountofcarrotscanbeleftinthegrounduntilspringpromptstheirgrowthagainbutthereisoftentherisktheymayturnwoodyandcrackIfyourcropwarrantsleavinginthegroundthen

coverwellwithstrawtoeasetheirliftingduringfrostsGiventhebenefitsforflavourandmineralcontentclampingisthebetter

option

HUNTINGDEERWITHALAN

WeregularlystalkwithourfriendAlanHeisahorticulturistacountrymanhereadsthelandscapeandwhispersthenamesofthethingsthatgrowcrawlrunandsingHehasawonderfullyclippedaccentlsquoJackrsquohewillsaylsquoLetrsquosconcentrateonthefirstcourseshallwersquoasthesightofStGeorgersquosmushroomsoftencausesdistractionsonaspringstalkDeeraremostactiveduringdawnandduskmeaningearly

startsandlatefinishesforthestalkerMorningsprovideacrystallinebeautyaswewalkthroughthelastfewfrostsoftheyearEveningsgiveusetherealsunsetsandthechancetowatchthelandsettledownforthenightAllthedeerinourareaareroeTheyareanativeBritishspecies(OldEnglishRaha)andare

spreadwidelyacrossBritainParticularlyinthesouthofEnglandthesedeerwerethoughttohavebeenallbutwipedoutduringtheMiddleAgesTheyarefoundpredominantlyinsmallgroupsoralonealthoughlargergroupswillfeedtogetherduringthewintermonthsRoewillfeedonberriesleavesgrassandyoungshootsTheyparticularlylikeyoungbrambleshootsandnewlycoppicedwoodlandEveninthefailinglightAlanrsquosgrinisperceptibleHenodsto

thesilhouetteofaroebuckasittracestheskylinewithitspin-likelegsitsearsflickingindependentlyWemustwaitforittodisappearoverthebrowofthehillhopingthatitwillprovideaclearshotwithasafebackstopontheothersideAtthistimeroedeerlookprettyscruffytheirwinterpelageisgivingwaytotheirsummercoatofchestnutredMerlinthelabradorisunconcernedbyourpotentialquarrypreferringtopushherlargeheadintothenearestpalmforascratchTheroebuckhassteppeddownfromtheskylineandhas

presenteditselfbroadsidewithasafebackstopforashotFromourpositionbodiespressedagainstthegroundwecanseethebuckleanforwardandtastetheairitslipsseekingawarningscentAlanstopsforaninstanttakesaimandslipsthesafetycatchbackBeforethebuckhasachancetoturnthereisabanganditfallstotheground

CurdCheeseCucumberFlatBeanAniseedandSesame

AccordingtotheBritishCucumberGrowersAssociationifallthecucumbersgrownintheBritishseasonwerelaidendtoendtheywouldgoalmostrightroundtheworldYetdespitethegreatnumberavailabletousaswithalotoffruitandvegetablesmostcucumbersareflowninfromEuropeorbeyondItseemsashamewhentherealityisthattheyarerelativelyeasytogrowintheUKHavingsaidthatgrowingcucumberscommerciallytakesalotofskillThecropsaresusceptibletodamagefrompestsmakingthemdifficulttogroworganicallyTheorganiccucumberswegetcomefromTheCommunityFarmwheretheteamensuresthatwearerarelyshortofseasonalproduceTheirlocationinChewMagnajust7milesawayisverygoodnewsforusOtherthanaquickcucumberpickleandadressingthissaladismadeto

orderhighlightingthewayfreshproduceatitsbestmarksthestartofaproductivesummerHerewemakeuseofcucumberandflatbeansbothofwhichgrowsplendidlyearlyinourglasshousesThesewillbeavailableforthosegrowingoutdoorsinlatespringtoearlysummerTheaniseeddressingworksharmoniouslywiththejuicycucumberanddelightfullysweetflatbeans

SERVES4100gflatbeanschopped1tspsesameseeds3youngcucumbers1tspaniseed(orfennelseeds)100mlcidervinegar100gcastersugar8tbspewersquoscurd(orgoatrsquoscurdorafreshyoungcheese)50gcheeserindtheolderanddrierthebetterfinelygrated(therindofunwaxedewersquosmilkcheeseisideal)

fineseasalt12borageflowersandafewwatercressleavestogarnish

FORTHEWATERCRESSDRESSING

70mlbuttermilk(ifunavailablestir1tspvinegarinto65mlmilkandleavefor5minutes)

35gmayonnaise(seePaprikaMayonnaiseonhereifyouwouldliketomakeitfromscratchomittingthepaprika)abunchofwatercressstalks

mustardpowderseasalt

Blanchtheflatbeansinfast-boilingsaltedwaterfor2minutesuntiljusttenderthendrainandleaveinicedwaterToastthesesameseedsinadryfryingpantilltheyturngoldenthentipthemoutofthepanontoaplatetopreventburningCutonecucumberinto5mmdiceandsprinkleliberallywithsaltLeavetodraininasievefor20ndash30minutestogivethefinishedpickleacrunchHeattheaniseedinadrypantillitspitsandcracklesTakethepanofftheheatcarefullyaddthevinegarandthenstirinthesugaruntildissolvedAllowthistocoolsomewhatwhileyourinsethesaltfromthecubedcucumberPutthecubesinabowlandcoverwiththewarmvinegarmixtureLeavetocoolThiswillkeepinthefridgefor5daysshouldyouchoosetomakeitinadvance

TomakethedressingputalltheingredientsinablenderkeepingbackafewofthewatercressstalksandpulseuntilthestalksareveryfinelychoppedThemixtureshouldbenothickerthansinglecreamandabeautifulpalegreencolourTasteandaddmoreofthestalksshouldyouwanttoincreasethatfreshgreenpeppertastefromthemustardoilwithinSeasonwithsaltandsetaside

Trimtheendsand2longsidesfromtheother2cucumbersandpeelintostripswithaY-shapedvegetablepeelerndashoronamandolineshouldyouwantsuper-tidyslicesLaytheseoneachservingplatecurlingthestripsoveranddresswithalittlefineseasaltSpoonscoopsofewersquoscurdandrolltheminthegratedcheeserindPlacetheseamongstthestripsofcucumberAddafewcubesofpickledcucumberandateaspoonoftheaniseedmarinadetoeachplateScattertheflatbeansovertheplatesandthenspoonoverthewatercressdressingFinishwiththedelicateblueborageflowersafewsmallwatercressleavesandthetoastedsesameseedsMarvellouscoloursandtidyonthetastebuds

CrabSaladwithNewPotatoesPickledCarrotand

SmokedPaprikaMayonnaise

WehaveoftenwonderedwhycrabmeatisnotmorepopularinBritainnowadaysMostcrabcaughtinBritishwatersissentstraighttoEuropewhereitisinhighdemandPerhapswesimplydonrsquotknowhowtocookthemlessstillhowtoeatthemAdmittedlypreparingawholecrabtakespracticeandcanbeamessyandtime-consumingaffairHoweverifyousurroundyourselfwithagroupoffriendsfurnishyourselveswithagoodloafofbreadandacoupleofbeveragespreferablyofthealcoholicvarietyyouwillseehowmuchfunitistopractiseThenativebrowncrabisdeliciousandthespidercrabrankshigherthanlobsterintasteformanyusincludedItistrulyadoredinSpaincommandingthehighestshellfishpricesIfyouneedmoregoodreasonstoeatBritishcrabmeatrememberthatitisrelativelyinexpensiveandhasbettersustainabilitycredentialsthanmostfishyoufindinthesupermarketThequantitiesgivenforthesmokedpaprikamayonnaisemakemorethan

youneedforthisrecipebutitisveryversatileServeitwithothersaladssmokedfishandasageneralsubstituteforboughtmayonnaiseWeguaranteethatittopsanythingyoucanbuyinashop

SERVES4200gnewpotatoesscrubbedcleanandcutinto5cmchunks1livebrowncrabor2livespidercrabs200gspringsaladleaves80mlTheEthicureanSaladDressing(seehere)afewpinchesofgroundmacebronzedillorfennelfronds100gPickledCarrots(seehere)afewedibleflowers(optional)

FORTHESMOKEDPAPRIKAMAYONNAISE

1largefree-rangeeggyolkfrac12tbsphoneyfrac12tbspDijonmustardfrac12tbspsmokedpaprika

1tspfineseasaltabout450mlrapeseedoil1tbspcidervinegar

FirstmakethemayonnaiseUsingastickblenderelectricwhiskorfreestandingelectricmixercombinetheeggyolkhoneymustardpaprikaandsaltWhiskonfullspeedfor30secondsoruntilsmoothWiththewhiskorblenderrunningonfullspeedveryslowlystartaddingtheoilAfterathirdoftheoilhasbeenmixedinaddthevinegarthencontinueinthesamefashionwiththerestoftheoilBesuretopourinaveryfinesteadystreamtobeginwithifyouaddtoomuchoilearlyonthemayonnaisewillsplitAstheoilisbeingincorporatedthemayonnaiseshouldstarttothickentoathickorangey-redemulsion(youmaynotneedalltheoil)Checkthetasteandseasonwithmoresaltandvinegarifnecessary

Cookthepotatoesinboilingsaltedwateruntiltenderthendrainandleavetocool

CookandpreparethecrabsasdescribedoverleafPlacesomeofthesaladleaveson4servingplateswiththepotatoesAddmoreleavesintertwiningthemwiththecrabmeatDresseachlayerasyougowithsaladdressingwhiletryingtomaintainheightinthedishtokeepitlookingattractiveTheclawsofthecrablookgreatwhenextractedwholesocombinethesewiththeflakedwhitecrabmeatforextravisualappealSpoononasmuchofthesmokedpaprikamayonnaiseasyouwishthenfinishwithafewpinchesofmacethebronzedillorfennelfrondspickledcarrotsandanyedibleflowersyoumayhaveServeimmediately

PREPARINGCRAB

HowtocookacrabThefirststepincookingacrabisknowinghowtokillit

humanelyOurheadchefMatthewwhoworkedformanyyearsasafishmongerisconvincedthattheonlywaytodothisistoputthecrabinthefreezerfor2hoursorsofirstTheeffectistonumbthecrabandensurethatthepainisminimisedwhenitiskilledWhenyoutakethecraboutofthefreezerturnitonitsbackliftthetailawayandlocatethedimplerightinitscentreTakeasharpskewerorothersharpthinimplementandpushitthroughthedimplethenasitmeetsthetopshellmoveitfromsidetosideDothesamebetweenthecrabrsquoseyespushingthe

skewerthroughandeasingitfromsidetoside

ThecrabshouldbecookedimmediatelyafterkillingItwillneed15minutesperkilograminalargepanofwell-saltedboiling

waterndashweallowatablespoonofsaltperlitreIfyouarecookingtwocrabscalculatethetimebasedontheirindividualratherthan

combinedweight

Howtoprepareacookedcrab1Turnthecrabonitsbackandtwistoffitslegsandclaws

2SeparatethetopshellfromthebottomshellbyplacingyourfingerunderthetopofitstailPullbothshellsapartusinga

heavyspoontocrackalongthelinethatisthereifitdoesnrsquotcomeawayeasily

awayeasily

3NowdonrsquotbeputoffbywhatyouseewhentheshellisfullyopenYouwillneedtodoabitoftidyingupbeforeyouareabletoappreciatethefullpotentialofthiscrustaceanStartbygettingridofthepointygreypiecesofmeatintheshell(calleddead

manrsquosfingers)andthebonybitsTheseareallinedibleYouwillneedtoremovethestomachsacjustbehindtheeyesandmouthtooThecreamybrownmeattoeithersideoftheheadisfor

somethetastiestandmostsupremelyediblesodonrsquotdiscardit

4UsingaskewerorsometweezersyounowneedtoremovethewhitemeatfromthemiddlepartofthebodyThisiswherethefirstglassofyourbeverageofchoicewillcomeinhandyastheprocessdoestakesometimeSopouryourselfadrinkandstartbycuttingthebodyintwosoitiseasiertoaccessthemeatinsideCarefullyremoveallthewhitemeatfromtheshellWhatmakesthistaskquitelaboriousisthatsomeofthedesirablewhite

meatisattachedtohardbonysectionsanditisdifficulttodifferentiatebetweenthetwoBepatient

5FinallycracktheclawsopenDIYtoolswillprobablybemoreeffectivethankitchenutensilsherendashasmallhammerworkswelloryoucouldtrythebackofaheavyknifeExtractasmuchwhitemeataspossiblewithyourtweezersorskeweranddonrsquotforgettoopenthewholeoftheclawThereismuchpreciousmeatinthelowerpartsoftheclawwhichisoftenforgottenaboutDothesamewiththelegsWithpracticethewholeprocesswilltake

youlessandlesstimeandweguaranteeitwillneverceasetobeenjoyable

SpringRadisheswithAnchovyCregravemeFraicircche

ThissimpleanchovydippairsbeautifullywithfreshradishesWeliketositaroundeatingthisinthegardenonasunnyspringeveningwhiledrinkingaglassofLimney(afantasticorganicwineproducedinSussex)andenjoyingthefirstrealwarmthoftheyearWhatrsquosgreataboutradishesisthatastheweatherbeginstowarmsodoestheirinherentfiery-pepperiness

SERVES4ndash62bunchesofradishes

FORTHEANCHOVYCREgraveMEFRAIcircCHE

alittlerapeseedorgroundnutoil1springonionfinelysliced

1springonionfinelysliced1headofwetgarlicfinelysliced(or2clovesofdriedgarlic)35gmarinatedwhiteanchovyfilletsfinelychopped75mlcregravemefraicirccheseasaltandblackpepper

HeatasplashofoilinasmallfryingpanaddthespringonionandgarlicandfryoveramediumheatuntilsoftAddtheanchoviesandcookforacouplemoreminutesTransferthemixturetoasmallbowlandleavetocoolStirinthecregravemefraicirccheandseasontotaste

ThoroughlycleantheradishesandtheirleaveskeepingtheleavesattachedHoldingtheleavesallowsyoutodiptheradishesintotheanchovysaucebeforebitingthemcleanofftheirgreeneryTherearefewsimplerormoredeliciouswaystoenjoythesepepperydelights

TroutwithKelpandShiitakeMushroomStockRiceFlatBeansandSeaKale

FindingthebestlocalingredientsisoneofthemostrewardingtasksforusatTheEthicureanSoweweredelightedwhenTessaTrickspartoftheEthicureanfamilydescribedhowcommittedherfatherwastofishinginthelocalareaHerfamilyrsquosfreezerwewereinformedwasalwaysuptomaximumcapacitywithrainboworbrowntroutcaughtinthenearbyChewValleyorBlagdonLakesItwasnosurprisetohearthattheyreferredtotroutaslsquotheTrickrsquosfamilycurrencyrsquoCharlieTricksstartedfishingattheageof10intheRiverYeoHenowpreferstofishatthebanksofthelakeashecanmovearoundandchoosehisspotBankfishingismoreofachallengebutthisaddstotheexcitementwhenyoudoeventuallysucceedincatchingsomethingworthcookingTheTrickseattroutatleastonceaweekandhavedevelopedan

impressivecatalogueofrecipesovertheyearsItwasourtasktoofferthemsomethingnewthatwouldfitwithourmenuThisreciperequirestwoJapanese-stylestockswhichneedpreparingadayinadvanceUnlikeEuropeanstockswhichoftenrequirelongcookingJapanesestocksarequicklukewarm-waterpreparationsthatuseumami-richingredientssuchasmushroomsdriedfishandseaweeds(seehereformoreaboutlsquoumamirsquo)ThesimplicityfreshnessandseasonalityofJapanesefoodarequalitiesthatweoftentrytoreplicateKelpisfrequentlyusedinJapanesestocksandinthisinstanceweusednativekelpdriedinaverylowovenYoushouldbeabletofindkelplabelledaskombuinorientalmarketsandhealthfoodstoresWhenCharlieandhisfamilytriedthisdishweworriedthatthedelicate

ingredientsaccompanyingthefishwouldnotstanduptoitbutthetablewasalivewithtalkofribonucleotidesinmushroomsguanylatecompoundsinumamiandseaweedstocksBytheendoftheirdinnertheTrickswerecommittedtoattemptingbriningathome

SERVES4300gbasmatirice40gseasalt1rainbowtroutweighing800gndash1kgfilletedwithpinbonesremoved6tbspmirin(ricewine)

6tbspmirin(ricewine)100gonionsfinelydiced50gceleriacfinelydiced50gwhitemushroomsfinelydiced2staranise1tspfennelseeds200gflatbeanstrimmedandcutinto2cmslices500gseakale(orkale)stalksremovedcutinto3cmstrips

FORTHEMUSHROOMSTOCK

50gdriedwholeshiitakemushrooms(theready-sliceddriedonesaremuchstrongersoreduceto10gifthatiswhatyouhave)FORTHEKELPSTOCK

20gdriedkelp(kombu)

Firstpreparethestocks(seeingredientsoverleaf)Forthemushroomstockwashthedriedshiitakethensoakin600mlcoldwaterovernightinaglassormetalbowlDonrsquotworryifyourkitchensmellsasifthereisagasleakthepungentshiitakewillbethecauseThefollowingdaystrainthestockthroughapieceofmuslinandchill

RinsethedriedkelpofanysandorresidueinabowlofcoldwaterBebriefsoasnottoloseitsconcentratedflavourPut12litreswaterinasaucepansetitoveralowheatandlookoutfortinybubblesappearingonthebaseofthepanTurnofftheheataddthekelpthencoverthepanandleaveforanhourswitchingtheheatonagainfor3minuteshalfwaythroughtomaintainthetemperatureIfyouhaveathermometerthetemperatureshouldholdcloseto60degCAnythinghigherwillreleasesulphurcompoundsiodineandaldehydesfromthekelpwhichwilltaintthesweetanddelicatestockStrainthestockthroughmuslinleavetocoolthenchill

Combinethe2stocksthenmeasureout750mlSetbothportionsofstockaside

WashthericeinasieveunderplentyofcoldrunningwaterTheaimistoremoveallthestarchsokeepgoinguntilthewaterrunscompletelyclearThismaytake10minutesormorebutgivesperfectriceeverytimeifthisstepisfollowedStirthericerubbingitgentlywithyourfingertipstoloosen

stepisfollowedStirthericerubbingitgentlywithyourfingertipstoloosenanyremainingstarchthenleavetodrainBasmatiwillabsorboneandaquartertimesitsweightinwaterduringcookingEvenifyoudonrsquotpossessaricesteamerbeautifulfluffyricecanbeachievedwithasaucepanandwell-fittinglidPutthedrainedriceintoafairlywidepanadd375mlwaterthencoverandsetaside

Tomakeabrineaddthe40gseasalttothe750mlmixedstockandstiruntilithasdissolvedCutthetroutfilletsinto4evenportionspersideAddthesetothebrineandrefrigerateforprecisely20minutesthendrainInthemeantimeheattheremainingstocktoasimmerandthentasteitItwillbeeversosubtleanddelicatebutyourtonguewillregistersomethingspecificsomethingcomplexyethardtopindownTheelusiveumamitastetheessenceofJapanesecookingispresentyetverydelicateAddthemirinandthenaddsaltapinchatatimeTasteagainandnoticehowthesweetnessandsalthaveaddeddepthSeasongraduallyuntilyouarepleasedwiththebalance

PutthepanofriceoverahighheatandwatchforittocometotheboilThemomentitdoesaddateaspoonofsaltandstirCoverthepantightlyandreducetheheattolowCookfor10minutesresistingthetemptationtopeerintothepanTheideaistotrytomimicaricesteamersothesteamneedstobetrappedbythelidAfter10minutesturntheheatoffbutleavethelidonforafurther10minutesContinuetoresistthetemptationtopeerin

Heattheovento120degCGasMarkfrac12BoilakettleandpourthewaterintoadeepbakingtraytoadepththatwillcoverthefishfilletscomfortablyAddtheonionsceleriacmushroomsstaranisefennelseedsandthedrainedfishfilletsPlaceintheovenandleavefor10minutes

Blanchtheflatbeansinapanofboilingsaltedwaterfor2minutesandtheseakaleinaseparatepanfor1minutethendrainRunaforkoverthericetoloosentheperfectlycookedfluffygrainsthendivideitbetween4servingbowlsandarrangethegreensarounditThefishwillbedelicatelypoachedbythispointPutthefishfilletsontopofthericeandpourtheclearstockaroundtheoutsideAfive-stagepalatepleaserforcertain

FRESHWATERFISH

Beingisland-dwellerswehavebeenexposedtomorewaterwaysthanmanyotherplacesaroundtheworldandwehavehadthetimeandopportunitytodevelopbetterfishingpracticesInrecentyearsfreshwaterfishhasbeenlabelledashavinganunsavourymuddyqualitytoitThisisnotatotallyunfoundedcommentespeciallyifthefishcomesfromhighsiltcontentwatersthatarerelativelystagnantGiventhestrainthatthefishingindustryisimposingonthemarineenvironmentthoughfreshwaterfishingisagoodsustainablealternativeMoreovernotallfreshwaterfishtastemuddyTroutinseasonforexampledoesnotIfcaughtshortlybeforeorafteritsbreedingperiodthefisharefullofmiltoreggswhichwillmakethemdeceptivelylargerinappearanceandcontributetothatlsquomuddyrsquoorlsquogrittyrsquotasteBewarned

Welikethefactthatthetroutwehaveonourmenucomesfromamanwhohasbeenfishinginthelocalareaforover50yearsWeareconvincedthathisexperienceandknowledgetricklesdowninsomeformorotherandleadstoabetterdishWhenweaskedhimhowfishinginthelocalareahadchangedovertheyearshebelievedthebiggestdifferencetobeintheflyvariationFortyyearsagolargenumbersofbigredsedgeflieswhichthetroutdevouredwerecommonlyseeninmidsummerNowadayssedgesaremuchsmallersothetroutismoredifficulttoenticeNodoubtthisaddstothechallengeandmakesitevenmoreworthwhiletogetacatch

GoatMeatballsMashLovageButterandMustardGreens

BeforewefoundtheWalledGardenweusuallyategoatrsquosmeatonlyatStPaulrsquosCarnivalinthecentreofBristolTherulewasthatwewouldlocatethestallswiththelongestqueuesanddevourasmanyCaribbeancurriesasnecessaryinourquesttofindthebestItwasatthiscalypso-infusedeventthatwehadourannualintakeofsucculentgoatrsquosmeatGoatrsquosmeatwascommonplaceintheUKuntilthemid-seventeenth

centuryNowmostofitisimportedfromeasternEuropeoffthebackofthedairyindustrythereandisrarelyfreerangeThemeatiscertainlyflavoursomebutittendstobetoughwhichmeansthatslowcookingisessentialFromanethicalpointofviewusingwhatwouldotherwisebeaby-productofthedairyindustrymakesperfectsenseManyfarmersseethemalekidsasadrainontheirresourcesOncetheyareborntheyservenopurposesotheyhavetobekilledThisseemsaterriblewasteconsideringtheenergydevotedtobreedingthemOurgoatrsquosmeatsupplierisCabritobasednearWellington(seealsoourCheeseboardhere)ItdoesnotbreedgoatsspecificallytosellonInsteaditbuysthebilliesfromsmall-scalefarmersraisesthemasfree-rangemeatandsellsthemtorestaurantsItrsquosworthaskingyourlocalbutcherwhethertheycantrackdownsomeBritishgoatrsquosmeatWehavenodoubtthatitwillbegintobecomemorepopularandmoreeasilyavailablesoonItwouldbefantasticifin50yearstimeafoodhistorianwroteofthereturnofgoatrsquosmeattotheBritishdietinthefirstpartofthetwenty-firstcenturyTheresponsewehavehadfromcustomerstothisdishhasbeen

overwhelmingthoughnotsurprisingthemeatissucculentandsweetitishighinproteinandironandcontainslessfatthanporkbeeforlambWefindthatmostpeopleareintriguedbythesemeatballsandwanttoknowmoreaboutgoatrsquosmeat

SERVES450gbread1frac12tspsalt1tsplovageseeds(ifnotavailableomitthesaltanduse1frac12tspcelerysalt)1tspcoarselygroundblackpepper

1tspcoarselygroundblackpepperfrac12tspdriedchilliflakes1tspcuminseeds550ggoatrsquosmeatfinelyminced1largeegglightlybeatenrapeseedoil50gonionfinelydiced25gcarrotslicedintohalfmoons25gceleriacfinelydiced250mlbrownchickenstock(seehere)200mlmedium-sweetciderabunchoflargemustardgreenscutintostrips2ndash3cmwidefrac12tspEnglishmustardValorPotatoMash(seehere)toserveseasalt

FORTHELOVAGEBUTTER

100mlbrownchickenstock(seehere)2tsplovageseeds(orahandfuloflovageleaves)75mlwhitewine3eggyolks185gcoldunsaltedbuttercutinto1cmcubesadashofvintagecidervinegarsuchasOstlerrsquos

Heattheovento180degCGasMark4BlitzthebreadsaltandspicesinablenderorfoodprocessortomakefinecrumbsPuttheminabowladdthemincedgoatrsquosmeatandeggandmixthoroughlyDividethemixtureinto12andshapeintoballsIthelpstorubalittlecookingoilontoyourhandstostopthemeatsticking

Heatalittlerapeseedoilinasmallsaucepanaddtheonioncarrotandceleriacthencoverandsweatoveralow-mediumheatuntilthevegetablesarebeginningtosoftenRemovefromtheheatandsetaside

PutthemeatballsinadeepbakingtininwhichtheyjustfitinasinglelayerPouroverthechickenstockandciderandaddthesoftenedvegetables

PouroverthechickenstockandciderandaddthesoftenedvegetablesCoverwithfoilplaceintheovenandroastfor30minutesTakeoffthefoilandroastfor10minuteslongeruntilthemeatballsarenutbrownincolourwheretheysitabovetheliquid

Meanwhilemakethelovagebutterputthestocklovageseedsandwineinasaucepanandboiluntilreducedbytwo-thirdsitsvolume(ifusingfreshlovageadditaftertheliquidhasreducedandleavetoinfusefor20minutes)StrainthemixturethroughafinesieveintoaheatproofbowlandallowtocoolslightlyWhiskintheeggyolksPlacethebowloverapanofsimmeringwatermakingsurethewaterdoesnottouchthebaseofthebowlWhiskuntilthemixturebecomesthickandairyAtthispointstartwhiskinginthebutteronecubeatatimewaitinguntilithascompletelymeltedbeforeaddingthenextpieceAfterafewpiecesofbutterhavebeenaddedyoucanstartadding2or3cubesatatimeThemorebutteryouincorporatethemoreyoucanaddeachtimeSeasontotastewithseasaltandadashofcidervinegarifyouwish

PlaceafryingpanoveramediumheatWhenitishotaddafilmofrapeseedoilfollowedbythemustardgreensmustardandsalttotasteCookstirringfrequentlyuntiltheleaveshavewilted

Servethemeatballsimmediatelywiththemashwiltedgreensandlovagebutter

daggerWhenweresearchedtheeatingofgoatmeatinthiscountrywefoundthatitwascommonplaceuntilabout1650LuciusColumellatheprominentRomanagriculturalwriterrecommendedthatevensickgoatswouldbefitforhumanconsumptioniftheyweresaltedanddrycuredIntheElizabethanerathephysicianThomasMoufetmaintainedthatoldgoatsshouldbeeatenbytenderisingthemBycontrastroastkidwasafavouriteseventeenth-centuryspringtimedishIntheeighteenthcenturytheWelshnaturalistThomasPennantreportedthatkidswerealsquocheapandplentifulprovisioninthewintermonthsrsquowhiledriedandsaltedgoathaunchesknownaslsquohungvenisonrsquowereeateninsteadofbaconInhisbookofBritishzoologyheclaimedlsquoThismakesanexcellentpastygoesunderthenameofrockvenisonandislittleinferiortothatofdeerThusnatureprovidesevenonthetopsofhighandcraggymountainsnotonlynecessariesbutdelicaciesfortheinhabitantsrsquo(BritishZoology1776)

OxTonguewithSwedeParsleyandCiderVinegar

TongueshouldberegardedunsqueamishlyasanexcellentcutofmeatsuitableforuseinadiverserangeofdishesInVictoriantimesitcertainlywouldhavemadeanappearanceonthecoldtableOnecombinationthatdatesbacktothefourteenthcenturydescribedbyDorothyHartleyaslsquoalwayspopularwiththemenfolkrsquowasarichthickandcreamymustardsaucepouredoverslicesofoxtongueThisrecipeandthefollowingonerequireyoutobrineyourowntongue

PatiencereallyisavirtueinthiscaseaweekofbriningfollowedbyacomparativelyshorttimeinthepotandyouareleftwithadeliciouspieceofmeatTongueisgreatinsaladsinasandwichorroastedwithvegetablesWecouldgoon

SERVES4WITHLEFTOVERS

1oxtongue200gswedepeeledandcutinto25cmcubes5staranise50mldoublecreamabunchofradishesfinelysliced50gflat-leafparsleyleavesrapeseedoilalittlecidervinegarseasaltsmokedseasalttoserve(optional)

FORTHEBRINE

200gcastersugar300gseasalt6juniperberries3cloves3staranise6blackpeppercorns6lovageseeds(orfennelseeds)2bayleaves

2bayleaves

FORCOOKINGTHETONGUE

100gonionfinelydiced50gcarrotfinelydiced50gceleriacorceleryfinelydiced10parsleystalks2bayleaves10peppercorns4staranise2cloves

Putalltheingredientsforthebrineinalargesaucepanadd2litresofwaterandbringtotheboilstirringoccasionallytodissolvethesugarandsaltRemovefromtheheatandleavetocoolthenplaceinthefridgeandchilluntilthetemperatureisbelow5degCPutthetongueinthebrineandweightitdownwithanon-reactiveitemndashsomethingwoodenplasticorceramicwilldothetrickMakesurethetongueiscompletelysubmergedCoverandleaveinthefridgeforaweek

Drainandrinsethetonguethenputitinalargesaucepanwith2litresofwaterandalltheingredientslistedforcookingthetongueBringtoasimmercoverandcookverygentlyfor4hourscheckingthewaterlevelhourlyandtoppingitupasnecessaryRemovethetonguefromitscookingliquorandleaveuntilcoolenoughtohandlethenpeelitItisimportanttopeelitwhileitisstillwarmotherwisethefatssolidifymakingthistaskmuchmoredifficult

TocooktheswedeplacethestaraniseinasaucepanaquarterfullofwaterandsetasteamerbasketoverthetopBringtoasimmerPlacetheswedeinthebasketcoverandsteamfor35ndash40minutesuntiltenderTransfertheswedetoablenderorfoodprocessoraddthecreamandblitzuntilcompletelysmoothSeasonwithsaltandleavetocool

Thinlysliceabout200gofthetongueSpoontheswedepureacuteeonto4servingplatesandtopwiththetongueslicedradishesandparsleyLightlydrizzlealittlerapeseedoilovertheparsleyandfinallyaddafewsplashesofcidervinegarandasprinklingofsmokedsaltifyouhaveit

cidervinegarandasprinklingofsmokedsaltifyouhaveit

daggerInEnglandtheuseofoxencastratedmalesbothfordraftpullingcartsandploughingandforbeefwasoncegeneralpracticeFourpairsofoxenwouldpullaplougheachanimalagedwithayearbetweenStaggeringthepairsmeantthateachyeartwowouldbefattenedforbeefandsoldthuspayingtheirwayTheEnclosuresActsofthelateeighteenthandearlynineteenthcenturieswhichreducedfieldsizeshastenedtheendoftheoxrsquosuseastheteamsofeightneededenoughspacetoturnattheendofeachfurrowBythebeginningofthetwentiethcenturythemorehigh-maintenancehorsewasfavouredforitsspeedandmanoeuvrabilityandeventuallyreplacedthedependableoxTodaywearenoteatingthedraftcattlethatourancestorswouldhaveknownbutinfactbeefcattleandinsomecasescalves

OxTonguewithCauliflowerGilliflowerandHazelnuts

InherbookFoodandDrinkinBritainCAnneWilsonreferstothepracticeofeatingtonguewithgilliflowersmorecommonlyknownascarnationsTheyhaveaflavourthatverycloselyresemblescloveThispairinghasbeenallbutforgottenaboutApparentlyifawitchtriestokillyouyoushouldhandheraredcarnationasshewillhavetocountthepetalsgivingyouenoughtimetofinishyouroxtongueandgilliflowerdinnerandescapeanynastyspells

SERVES41cauliflowerdividedintoflorets2tbspplainflourfrac14tspgroundcloves2eggslightlybeatenwithapinchofsalt30gbutter200goxtonguebrinedandcookedasintherecipeonherethencutinto12slices50ghazelnutstoastedinadryfryingpanandthendustedwithfrac14tsp

groundcinnamon1tablespoonroastedcobnutoil(orwalnutoil)

FORTHEGILLIFLOWERSYRUP

abunchoforganiccarnations(besuretouseonesthathavenrsquotbeensprayed)100mlcidervinegar100gicingsugarplus2tbsp

YouwillneedtopreparethegilliflowersyrupafewdaysinadvanceCutthepetalsfrom3carnationsandputtheminabowlCoverwiththecidervinegarandthenstirinthe100gicingsugarWeightdownwithaplateandsetasidefor3daysatroomtemperature

Onthedayyouwanttoservethesaladtrimthepetalsfrom2flowerheadsrinsethemandspindryinasaladspinnerDrythepetalsonateatoweltocatchthelastdropsofmoisturepreventinganyflavourlossStrainthegilliflowersyrupandtasteitTherewillbenotesofcloveandpepperthoughitmayneedsweeteningalittlefurtherwithicingsugartomellowthevinegarSet2tablespoonsofthesyrupasideaddingthe2tablespoonsoficingsugartoitReservethistocaramelisetheoxtonguebeforeserving

Cookthecauliflowerfloretsinlightlysimmeringsaltedwaterforabout10minutesuntilaldenteDraincoolinice-coldwateranddrainagainverythoroughlyMixtheflourwiththegroundclovesDustthecauliflowerfloretsinthismixtureandthendipthemintothebeateneggsHeatthebutterinafryingpanandfrythecauliflowerinitinsmallbatchestillgolden

Afterfryingthecauliflowercleanoutthepanwithkitchenpaperandplaceitoveramedium-highheatBrushtheoxtonguesliceswiththecaramelisingsyrupandplaceinthehotpanCookwithoutmovingthemuntilyoucanseethembrowningattheedgesthenturnandcolourtheothersidetoo

Assemblethedishbyarrangingthecaulifloweroxtongueandpetalson4servingplatesDropthecinnamon-dustedhazelnutsontopanddresswiththegilliflowersyrupandroastedcobnutoil

SaltMarshLambwithTidalGreens

InEnglandthebenefitsofsalt-marshgrazinghavebeenknownsincethethirteenthcenturyyetformanyyearsthevastmajorityofthemeathasbeenexportedtoFrancewhereitisrecognisedasadelicacyInEnglishFood(MichaelJoseph1974)JaneGrigsonwrotelsquoPeoplelivingaroundRomneyMarshhelliphavetolookacrossatflocksofsheepfeedingonthesaltmarshesandknowthatthemeatwillbypasstheirbutchersandbeservedtotouristsinNormandyBrittanyandParisasagneaupreacute-saleacutespecialiteacutedelamaisonpricetomatchrsquoHoweversaltmarshlambisonceagainbecomingavailablehereFarmerswithcoastalpasturebringtheirflocktotheseamarshesinspringwhentheweatherimprovessothesheepcangrazeclosetothewaterrsquosedgefeedingonseavegetationsuchassamphiresorrelsealavenderandthriftWetookaforagingcoursethatambledthroughthesaltmarshonthe

SevernwherethelambwebuyfortherestaurantgrazeWelearnedaboutedibleseagrassesseakaleandseabeetandrealisedthatwehadsomenewgreenstoservealongsidethisprimelambshoulderWealsoserveitwithfathenacommonplantoftenconsideredtobeaweedwhichgrowsingardensroadsidevergesandhedgerows

SERVES6ndash81tinofanchoviesdrained1shoulderofsaltmarshlambbonedweighingabout2kgrapeseedoil4onionscutintoquarters4largecarrotspeeledbutleftwhole4spearsofrosemaryabunchofparsley1headofgarliccutinhalfthroughitsequator200mldryvermouth1kgnewpotatoesaknobofbutterasmallbunchofmintchopped

FORTHESALTMARSHGREENS

abunchofseaarrowgrassorPickledSamphire(seehere)abunchofseaarrowgrassabunchofseabeet(canbereplacedwithspinachorkale)abunchofseakale(canbereplacedwithpurplesproutingbroccoli)abunchoffathen(canbereplacedwithspinach)aknobofbutter

Heattheovento160degCGasMark3ThefirsttaskistogettheanchoviesintothemeatspikethelambinseveralplaceswithasmallknifeworkingitunderthetoplayerofthefleshlaterallyratherthandownwardsPushtheanchovyfilletsintotheincisionsTheywilldissolveduringthelongcookingprocessseasoningthemeatandnegatingtheneedtosaltthejointfurtherEvenifyouarenotkeenontheserichsaltyandumamifishfilletsweurgeyounottoomitthemThefinalflavourwillnotbeoffishbutofseasonedlamb

Heatathinfilmofrapeseedoilinalargeheavy-basedfryingpanaddthelambshoulderandsearoverahighheatuntilbrownedalloverPuttheonionscarrotsrosemaryparsleyandgarlicinaroastingtinandplacethelambontopPourinthevermouthcoverwithfoilandplaceintheovenRoastfor3frac12ndash4hoursuntilyouhaveatenderroastofthehighestorderRemovefromtheovenandleavetorestforatleast20minutes

ScrubthepotatoesandcutthemsotheyareallroughlythesamesizeasthesmallestonesCookinboilingsaltedwateruntiltenderthendrainwellandtosswithaknobofbutterandthemint

Washthegreensandthenblanchthemwholeinfast-boilingwell-saltedwaterfor1minuteDrainwellandtosswithaknobofbutterServethelambwiththegreensandpotatoes

daggerAttherestaurantweusuallysourceabreedcalledSuffolkCrossCharolloisThebreedwasfirstimportedfromFrancein1976originallyfromthetownofCharollesintheSaocircneLoireregionofFrancewhereitgrazesalongsidethefamousCharollaisCattleOurbutcherbuysourlambfromfarmsbasedonthebanksoftheRiverSevernnearFramptononSevernTheyareslaughteredatStonehouseGloucestershireandsohave

lessthan5foodmilesattributabletothemThewildseaplantsonwhichourlambfeedarehighinsaltlevelsandiodinemakingthemusclecellsinthefleshretainmoremoistureThemeatisconsequentlysweeterjuicierandnotaspinkasmountainlamb

SteamedRabbitPudding

RabbithashistoricallybeenregardedaspoormanrsquosgameItwasoneoftheonlywildanimalsthatcommonerswereallowedtohunttherestbeingreservedforthecrownorthegentryTodaypeoplearescepticalaboutcookingwithrabbitbutitisundoubtedlygrowinginpopularityAtTheEthicureanwecookonlywildrabbitsfavouringtheirfirmtextureandgameyflavourMuchoftherabbitavailableinshopsisfarmedPleaseavoidbuyingthisasittendstobeblandandaltogetheruninterestingInsteadaskyourbutchertoorderyouayoungwildrabbitItisagooddealeasiertoidentifytheageofarabbitthathasthepelt(fur)

stillattachedAnoldtoughrabbitwillhaveascruffypatchycoatwornclawstoughearsandbrokenanddamagedteethThereislittletodowiththeseinthekitchenbutslowroastthemAyoungrabbitshouldhaveaglossyhealthycoatgoodstrongclawsandpliableearsInthisrecipeweemployagreatBritishtraditionthesteamedsuet

puddingBeforesealingtherabbitinthepastrywepressure-cookitwholeinMorganSweetciderfromthelowerorchardWehaveseentheoddappledropandlandonarabbitrsquosheadTheironyisnotlostonus

SERVES48springonionsouterlayerandrootsremoved1rabbitskinnedkidneysremoved1bottle(330ml)PerryrsquosMorganSweetciderorothergoodsweetcider5sprigsofthyme5blackpeppercornsseasalt

FORTHESUETPASTRY

300gself-raisingflourapinchofsalt150gcoarselygratedbeefsuetbutterforgreasing

PlaceagriddleoverahighheatandleaveforafewminutestogetveryhotAddthespringonionsandcookturningoccasionallyuntiltheyarecharred

AddthespringonionsandcookturningoccasionallyuntiltheyarecharredandtenderPlacetheminapressurecookerwiththewholerabbitciderthymeandpeppercornsAttachthelidandplaceonthehighestheatuntilitisatfullpressurethenturntheheatdownandcookfor1frac12hoursRemovefromtheheatandleavetocooltoroomtemperaturebeforeremovingthelid(Ifyoudonrsquothaveapressurecookercooktherabbitinacoveredpanoveralowheatfor3hourscheckingtheliquidleveleveryhourorsoandaddingmoreciderifnecessary)TaketherabbitoutofthecookerreservingtheliquidThoroughlyflakeallthemeatfromthebonesPlacethemeatinasaucepanstrainthecookingliquidthroughwetmuslinorafinesieveandcookoveramedium-highheatuntiltheliquidhasalmostcompletelyevaporatedSeasonwithsalttotaste

TomakethepastrysifttheflourintoabowladdthesaltandsuetandmixwellwithaknifeSlowlyadd200mlwaterstirringitintomakeadoughTurnoutontoaflouredsurfaceandkneadlightlyforacoupleofminutesthenrolloutto5mmthickGreasea12litrepuddingbasinwellwithbutterthenlineitwiththesuetpastryreservingaboutaquarterforthelidFillthebasinwiththerabbitRolloutthereservedpastrytofitthetopofthebasinthenputitoverthefillingandpinchtheedgestogetherTrimoffanyexcesspastry

Takeapieceoffoillargeenoughtocoverthetopofthebasingenerouslyandfolda2ndash3cmpleatinthecentretoallowroomforexpansionCoverthebasinwiththefoiltuckingitundertherimtosealPlaceonawirestandinsidethepressurecookerandaddacoupleofinchesofwatertothepanAttachthelidtothepressurecookerandplaceoverahighheattobringittofullpressureReducetheheatandcookonfullpressurefor1frac14hours(Alternativelyyoucouldsteamtherabbitinaconventionalsteamerfor2frac12hours)RemovefromtheheatandallowtocoolalittlethenturnthepuddingoutontoalargeservingplateDiverightin

PorkJuniperandBlackIPAPie

InBritaintherelationshipsbetweenapplesbeerporkandpiesareasoldasthehillsThereismuchtocelebrateonourlittleislandandtheporkpieshouldbeworshippedattheveryleastonceaweekAlittlesmudgeof

shouldbeworshippedattheveryleastonceaweekAlittlesmudgeofmustardasliceofpiebalancedonthekneewithagoodpausebetweeneachbiteThisisapiethatmustbeeatenoutdoorsandhelpedonitswaywithagoodbestbitterordryciderWemustconfessthattheeccentricitiesofthisrecipeevolvedfromthe

greatFrenchtraditionofmakingcoarseporkterrinesWelovejuniperndashitsheadyresinousfragranceisthedelightofgindrinkersanditistrulyathomewithporkTheFrenchndashandthelategreatKeithFloydndashwouldtumbleinaclaretsavingthelastthirdofthebottleasacookrsquosperkandanothertoenjoyduringbakingWeforgowinehereforanIndiaPaleAle(IPA)andablackIPAatthatThisisnrsquotmerelyforpatrioticeffectbutbecauseofthewonderfullyhoppednatureofanIPAandtheroastedmaltybasethatcomesfromtheinclusionofdarkmaltMoorBeerbasedinPitneyinSomersetmakesaverygoodblackIPAcalledIllusionJustyntheheadbrewerrefusestoaddfinningstoclearhisbeersayinglsquoWhywouldIwanttheswimbladdersoffishinmypintpurelyforclarityrsquoHehasapointIfyoucannotfindablackIPAagoodregularIPAwilldoverywellindeedEvenifyouareunfamiliarwiththenamehot-watercrustpastryyouwill

undoubtedlyhaveeatenitifyouhaveeverindulgedinagoodporkpieItiscommonlyusedformakinghand-raisedpiesandisanimportantpartofMatthewandIainrsquosinfamouslsquopieoffsrsquoThetwoarerarelycompetitivebutwhenitcomestohand-raisingporkpies(ratherthantakingtheeasieroptionofmakingtheminamouldasbelow)wewilloftenhearthewordslsquoItrsquosonrsquofromthekitchenndashthendeadlysilenceensueswhilethetwometiculouslygoaboutshapingtheirpiesOncethepiesareintheoventhebanterandteasingbeginlsquoWaaahyourpiersquosdefinitelygoingtocrackrsquolsquoWhateverYoursissowonkyitrsquosnotevengonnastanduprightrsquoItisapastrythatcontradictstraditionalmethodsofpastrymakingneedingtobeusedwarmsoitcanbeshapedDonotletthisintimidateyoundashthisisaveryeasyandfunpastrytoworkwith

SERVES8

FORTHEFILLING

13kgporkbellymincedonacoarsesetting(askyourbutcherforthebones)200gpigrsquoslivercutinto1cmcubes200gmincedbeef10smokedstreakybaconrasherscutinto2cmpieces

10smokedstreakybaconrasherscutinto2cmpieces2garlicclovesfinelysliced15blackpeppercornsplus1tspfreshlygroundblackpepper17juniperberrieslightlycrushedfrac12tspgroundmace250mlblackIPA(orregularIPA)75mlSomersetciderbrandy1tbspfineseasalt

FORTHEJELLY

thebonesfromtheporkbelly3ndash4pigrsquostrotters1largecarrotfinelysliced1largeonionfinelysliced1bayleaf5sprigsofthyme12blackpeppercorns2ndash3lovageleaves(orceleryleaves)seasalt

FORTHEHOT-WATERCRUSTPASTRY

450gstrongwhiteflourfrac12tspsalt1tbspicingsugar1egg80glarddiced80gbutterdiced1egglightlybeatentoglaze

FirstmakethejellyPutalltheingredientsexceptthelovageandsaltinapanadd15litresofwaterandbringtotheboilReducetheheattoasimmerandcookuncoveredfor2hoursmeticulouslyskimmingoffanyscumthatrisestothesurfaceStrainthroughafinesieveintoacleanpanandbringtotheboilBoiluntilreducedtoaquarterofitsvolumethenremove

fromtheheatNowitrsquostimetotestwhetherithasreducedtothecorrectconsistencyPutatablespoonoftheliquidonaplateandleaveitinthefridgefor20minutesPushyourfingerthroughthemiddleoftheliquidIftheliquidbeginstocrinklethenitrsquosreadyIfnotcontinuetoreduceitoverahighheatforafewmoreminutesthentestagainWhenthecorrectconsistencyisachievedbringtheliquidtotheboiladdthelovageleavesandturnofftheheatLeavethelovagetoinfusefor20minutesthenremoveanddiscardTasteoncemoreandseasonwithseasaltaccordingly

YoucouldmakethestockforthejellyinapressurecookerFollowtheinstructionsabovebutcookatfullpressurefor80ndash90minutesRemovefromtheheatandallowtocooltoroomtemperaturebeforeremovingthelidThenstrainreduceandtestasabove

PutalltheingredientsforthefillinginabowlandmixwithyourhandsuntilthoroughlycombinedSetasidewhileyoumakethepastry

Heattheovento180degCGasMark4TomakethepastrymixthefloursaltandicingsugartogetherinalargebowlMakeawellinthecentreandaddtheeggCovertheeggwiththeflourPutthelardandbutterinasaucepanwith200mlwaterGraduallybringthewatertoasimmerandleaveuntilthefatshavemeltedSlowlypourthewaterandfatintotheflourCuttogetherwithaknifeuntiladoughhasstartedtoformthenturnoutontoaflouredsurfaceandkneadlightlyuntilglossyandsmoothndashacoupleofminutesmaximumUseimmediately

SetasideathirdofthepastryforthelidRollouttherestonalightlyflouredsurfaceto5mmthickandusetolinea23cmpiemouldorspringformcaketinTrimtheexcesspastryhangingovertheedgesandputtoonesideSpooninthefillingpressingitdowngentlysoitisevenlydistributedRolloutthereservedpastry3mmthicktomakealidPutitontopofthepieandpinchittothepastryedgesotherearenogapsYoucangentlyshapetherimintoaprettydesignshouldyousowishMakeasmallholeinthecentreforventing

Rolloutthepastrytrimmingsto3ndash5mmthickCutastrip5cmwideandasimilarlengthtothepieCutdiagonallyintostripsallthewaydowntheentirelengthandthenagaintheotherwaysowhatyouareleftwithare

diamondsinthecentreandhalfdiamondsontheedge(seethephotoopposite)

BrushthepiewiththebeateneggtoglazethenlaytheextrapastryinastripacrossthetopofthepieinadesignofyourchoiceleavingtheventholeclearLightlyglazetheextrapastrypieceswitheggthenplacethepieintheovenandbakefor20minutesTurntheovendownto160degCGasMark3andbakeforafurther45ndash60minutesuntilthejuicesrunclear(ifyouhaveaprobethermometertheinternaltemperatureofthepieshouldbe86degC)Ifthepieisbrowningtooquicklywhichcanoftenhappencoverittightlywithfoil

AllowthepietocooltoroomtemperaturethencarefullyremoveitfromthemouldIfthejellyhassetwarmitslightlysoitisjustliquidSlowlypourthejellyinthroughthesteamventuntilthepieisfullPlaceinthefridgefor2ndash4hourstosetthejelly

daggerWedoenjoyasplashofSomersetCiderBrandyinourpieJulianTemperleyhasmadeasuccessofdistillingcideralongwiththehelpofhistwocontinuousstillsJosephineandFifiThisisnopoorrelationofCognacbutaformidablespiritthathasafloralspiceandadepththathasbeenbroughttolifeontheSomersetlevelsJulianrsquosexperimentswithblendsbarrelsandageinghavefurnishedourrestaurantwithenoughmarvellousdrinkstokeepanySomersetciderfarmerrosie-cheeked

PearlBarleywithOldDemdikeandStGeorgersquosMushroom

Weloveumami-richfoodsandmushroomsandcheesearefantasticsourcesofitUmamiorsavouryflavourisnowconsideredtobethefifthbasictastendashtheothersbeingsweetsoursaltyandbitterTomatoescheesessuchasParmesanandCheddarandmushroomsarepackedfullofitThisdishisverysimilartotheItalianorzottoOrzottoislikerisottoonly

pearlbarleyisusedeasilymatchingthequalityofCarnaroliorVialoneNanoriceWhenrisottosandorzottosarewellexecutedtheyareadelightndashheartysoothingandoftennostalgicndashyettheycanbeimproveduponfurtherwiththeuseoftexturalcontrastsandburstsofflavouraswedointhisrecipeHereintenselyflavouredmushroomjelliesaddaburstofrichumamiandatexturalcontrastStGeorgersquosmushroomsgivehintsofwatermelonandcucumberwhileaewersquoscheesecrispaddsafineaestheticfinishtoanalreadystunningdish

SERVES4150goldDemdikecheesegrated300gpearlbarley2tbsprapeseedoil200gonionsfinelydiced150gcarrotsfinelydiced200gceleriacfinelydiced250mlredwine350mlmushroomstock(seehere)10ndash15smallStGeorgersquosmushroomsquartered(ifunavailableuseoystermushrooms)

1tbspchoppedparsleyMushroomJelly(seehere)madewithsmokedsaltifpossibleseasalt

Tomaketheewersquoscheesecrispsarrange50gofthegratedcheeseinanovalshapeonapieceofbakingparchmentPlaceanotherpieceofparchmentontopandrollitoutintoathinlayerTurnoutintoafryingpanandplaceona

topandrollitoutintoathinlayerTurnoutintoafryingpanandplaceonamedium-lowheatuntilthecheesehasmeltedandthebottomhasbeguntobrownlightlyPutthepanunderahotgrillandleaveuntilthecheeseisanevengolden-browncolouralloverLeavetocoolthenbreakinto4piecesandsetaside

PlacethepearlbarleyinasaucepancoverwithcoldwaterandbringtotheboilDrainwellthenrepeatDrainandsetasideHeathalftherapeseedoilinasaucepanaddtheonionscarrotsandceleriacandcookoveramediumheatuntiltheybegintosoftenDonotallowthemtocolourStirinthepearlbarleyfollowedbytheredwineandcookuntilthewinehasbeencompletelyabsorbedbythebarleyAddthemushroomstockaladlefulatatimewaitingforittobefullyabsorbedbeforeaddingthenextContinuefor10ndash15minutesuntilthepearlbarleyiscookedbutstillhasaslightresistancetothebite

MeanwhileheattheremainingrapeseedoilinafryingpanaddthemushroomsandfryoverahighheatuntiltenderandgoldenbrownAddthemtothepearlbarleyreservingafewforgarnishingStirintheremaininggratedcheeseandtheparsleyandseasonwithsaltServegarnishedwiththeremainingfriedmushroomsthemushroomjelliesandthecheesecrisps

RhubarbandCustard

MostpeoplecredittheeccentricVictorianswithplacingjelliesfirmlyontheBritishgastronomymapAfterallitwastheVictorianaristocracywhoexcelledatusingdecorativejelliesatbanquetstodisplaytheirpowerandsocialstandingInfactjellieshadbeenaroundforcenturiespreviouslyandsavouryjellieswerecommonatmedievalfeastsWecreatedthisdessertinhonourofRobertMayaseventeenth-century

cookwhointroducedfruitjelliestotheEnglishtableandmetwithasurprisingamountofresistanceThissuperblyflavouredjellyconsistsoftwoingredientsthatwethinkweremeanttobetogetherndashrhubarbandcustardYoudonrsquotnecessarilyhavetolayerthemexactlyasdescribedbelowYoucouldmakethinnerlayersoraddaborderofjellyetcGetcreativeJustbesuretoseteachlayerfullybeforeaddingmore

SERVES6

FORTHERHUBARBJELLY

15kgrhubarbcutinto2cmpieces150gcastersugar13ggelatine

FORTHECUSTARD

600mldoublecream1vanillapod8eggyolks200gcastersugar11ggelatine

FORTHERHUBARBCOMPOTE(OPTIONAL)

2largerhubarbstalkscutinto1ndash2cmpiecesafewtbspcastersugartotaste

Forthejellyput650mlwaterinapanandbringtotheboilPlaceasteamerbasketoverthetoplargeenoughtoholdtherhubarbAddtherhubarbtothebasketcoverwithatight-fittinglidandsteamoveralowheatfor1hourIftoomuchsteamisescapingputalayeroffoiloverthepanandputthelidon

toomuchsteamisescapingputalayeroffoiloverthepanandputthelidontopofthefoil

WhiletherhubarbissteamingmakethecustardPourthecreamintoaheavy-basedsaucepanSlitthevanillapodopenlengthwiseandscrapeouttheseedsAddtheseedsandpodtothecreamandbringtojustbelowboilingpointthenremovefromtheheatandcoolslightlyWhisktheeggyolksandsugartogetherinalargebowluntiltheyolksbecomepaleandthesugarisfullyincorporatedPourthecreamthroughafinesieveontotheeggyolkswhiskuntilsmoothandthentransfertoacleansaucepanPutthegelatinesheetsintoabowlofice-coldwaterandleavetosoakfor10minutes

HeatthecustardmixturegentlystirringconstantlyAfterafewminutesitwillbegintothickenItisvitaltostirallpartsthoroughlytopreventanyofthemixtureovercooking(Ifyouhaveadigitalthermometerthenthisisagoodtimetouseitthecustardshouldbenomorethan85degCotherwiseitwillscramble)WhenithasthickenedenoughtocoatthebackofthespoonwithoutrunningoffremovefromtheheatandplacethepanbrieflyinabowlofcoldwatertostopitcookingfurtherStrainthecustardthroughasieveintoabowlSqueezeoutanyexcessliquidfromthegelatineandaddthegelatinetothecustardstirringuntilcompletelydissolvedCoolthecustardquicklybyplacingthebowlinacoupleofinchesofcoldwaterinthesinkthenchillinthefridge

CUSTARD

InabusykitchenmakingcustardfromscratchisabitofatreatAsimplejobitisachancetostandstillandfocusononetaskit

forcesyoutoslowdownphysicallyandmentallySlowlywatchinghowtheviscosityofthecustardchangeswhilestirringconstantlyisquiteagroundingexerciseItisamomentwhenyoutakeinthesoundsandsmellsaroundyouandregainsome

clarityamidstalltheactivity

clarityamidstalltheactivity

Whentherhubarbhassteamedfor1hourremovefromtheheatanddiscardtherhubarbAllthejuiceandflavourfromtherhubarbwillbeinthewaterinthepanunderneathsokeepthisMeasureout450mloftherhubarb-infusedwaterintoacleansaucepanaddthesugarandheatgentlystirringuntildissolvedSoftenthegelatineinice-coldwaterasforthecustardSqueezeoutanyexcesswaterandaddthegelatinetothepanofftheheatStiruntilcompletelydissolvedthensetaside

Tosetthejellyyouwillneeda1-litreterrinejellymouldorbowlIfusingaterrineverylightlyoiltheinsideusingapastrybrushthenlinewithalayerofclingfilmOncetheterrineislinedwithclingfilmithelpstofilltheterrinewithwaterwhichenablesyoutoremoveanyremainingairbubblesfromtheedgesoftheterrineDiscardthewaterandgentlypatdrywithkitchenrollIgnorethisprocessifusingajellymouldorbowl

Pouralayerofjellyintoyourchosenreceptacletillabout1ndash2cmdeepPlaceinthefridgefor1frac12hoursoruntilsetfirmPuthalfthecustardinapanplaceoverthelowestpossibleheatandstircontinuouslyuntilfluidPourthecustardintothemouldoverabackofaspoonheldjustabovetherhubarbjellyThisslowsitsfallmakingitlesslikelytobreakthejellyapartPourthecustardoverthefirstlayerofrhubarbjellyandreturntothefridgeLeavefor2hoursoruntilcompletelyfirm

TakeouttheremainingjellyandplaceinasaucepanoveralowheatuntilfluidPouroverthesetlayerofcustard(usingaspoonasyoudidbefore)andreturntothefridgeuntilcompletelysetThenheattheremainingcustarduntilfluidandpouritintothemouldoverthebackofaspoonasbeforeLeaveinthefridgepreferablyovernightuntilset

Tomakethecompoteputtherhubarbinasaucepanjustbigenoughtoholditinasinglelayerandadd2tablespoonsofwaterCookcoveredoveralow-mediumheatuntiltherhubarbbeginstobreakdownStirinsugartotasteandcontinuetocookuntilthecompoteistheconsistencyofrunnyjam

tasteandcontinuetocookuntilthecompoteistheconsistencyofrunnyjamRemovefromtheheatandleavetocool

Turnthejellyoutofthemouldandservewiththecompoteifliked

daggerTheVictorianerawasthehey-dayofjellymakingthoughjellieshadbeenaroundforcenturiesInTudorandStuarttimesitwascommonforthegentrytobuildsummerhousesintheirgardensjustsothattheirbanquetingguestshadsomewherequietwheretheycouldenjoythefinaljellycourseAssugarbecamemorewidelyavailabledessert-makersmadethemostofitBytheseventeenthcenturysweetjellieswerethenormseasonedwithrosewaterandspicesOthercreationsincludedtransparentpuddingsinwhichlayersofslicedalmondsraisinscitronandcandiedlemonwerevisiblethroughthejelly

ChocolateandSaltCaramelBrownieswithCherryandElderflowerSauce

TherearecountlessrecipesforchocolatebrowniesandinitiallywethoughtthatperhapsthereweretoomanyalreadyHowevergiventhatourlocalareahassuchanillustrioushistoryinchocolateproductionwefeltitwasonlyfairtocomeupwithourownchocolaterecipeWehavetheindustriousVictorianstothankformakingchocolateavailabletothewiderpublicItwasinfactafactoryinBristolownedbyJSFryampSonsthatproducedthefirstchocolatebarin1847ThecompanywentontoproducesomeofourchildhoodfavouritessuchasFryrsquosChocolateCreamandTurkishDelightWeliketouseOriginalBeanschocolatebecauseofitsqualityandthe

companyrsquosethicswhichcloselymatchourownCo-foundedbytheenvironmentalistentrepreneurPhilippKauffmanOriginalBeansisrenownedforitszerocarbonpoliciesandpassionforsustainablefarmingTheadditionofsaltcaramelisprimarilytoenhancethesweetnessofthe

browniealthoughwehavetoadmitthatitdoesaddalottotheoverallpresentationtoo

SERVES4WITHPLENTYOFBROWNIESLEFTFORTOMORROW

250gdarkchocolateatleast72percentcocoasolids170gunsaltedbutter300gcastersugar3largeeggslightlybeaten1eggyolk80mlrapeseedoil60gplainflourfrac12tspbakingpowderfrac12tspsalt70gorganiccocoapowder50gSaltCaramel(seehere)plusextratoserve

FORTHECHERRYANDELDERFLOWERSAUCE

100gfrozensourcherries

100gfrozensourcherries50gElderflowerSyrup(seehere)orelderflowercordial

Heattheovento180degCGasMark4Lightlygreasea23cmspringformcaketin

Melt200gofthechocolateinabowlplacedoverapanoflightlysimmeringwatermakingsurethewaterdoesnottouchthebaseofthebowlRemovefromtheheat

UsinganelectricwhiskorafreestandingmixerfittedwiththepaddleattachmentbeatthebutterandsugartogetheruntilpaleandlightChangethemixerattachmenttoawhiskorcontinueusingtheelectricwhiskSlowlyaddtheeggsandtheextrayolknomorethanatablespoonatatimewhiskingthoroughlybetweeneachadditionSlowlyaddtherapeseedoilandwhiskthemixtureforafurther5minutesuntilithasaglossysilkyappearance

SiftintheflourbakingpowdersaltandcocoapowderandwhiskbrieflyuntilincorporatedUsingametalspoonfoldinthemeltedchocolatePourthemixtureintothecaketinandsmooththetopRoughlychoptheremainingchocolateandlightlypushthepiecesintothesurfaceofthecakemixRepeattheprocesswiththesaltcaramelpiecesPlaceinthecentreofovenandbakefor25minutesoruntilaknifeinsertedinthecentrecomesawaywithalittlecakemixtureattacheditshouldnotlookraw

Ifitdoesreturntotheoventestingevery3minutesRemovefromtheovenandleavetocoolonawirerack

AllowtocooltoroomtemperatureonawiretrayMeanwhileputthecherriesandelderflowersyrupinasmallsaucepanandcookoveramediumheatforabout10minutesuntilsyrupyLeavetocoolalittlebeforeserving

ThebrowniescanbeservedhotorcoldTurnoutandslicethenservewithshardsofsaltcaramelbrokenovereachportionandthewarmsyruppouredoverThebrowniescanberefrigeratedforupto5daysbutyouwouldneedagreatdealofwillpowerforthemtolastthatlongFreezingisagoodwaytolengthentheirlifeandithastheaddedbonusofincreasingthefudginess

Elderflowersyrup

100mlwater100gcastersugar2largeheadsofelderflower

Put100gcastersugarinapanwith100mlwaterandbringtotheboilstirringtodissolvethesugarImmediatelyremovefromtheheatandadd2largeheadsofelderflowerLeavetoinfusefor20minutesthenstrainthroughapieceofwetmuslinorasieveLeavetocoolthenstoreinthefridgeforuptoaweek

StrawberryandRoseLemonadePuddingwithSaffronandCiderBrandyCustard

ThisisamarvellouswayofusingupthelastjarofstrawberryjambeforethesummerglutWehavepolishedoffoneofthesepuddingsinunder5minutesbetweenthefourofusThebrandyandsaffrongivethecustardcomplexityandpunchandcomplementthestrawberryinawayyoumightnothaveexpected

SERVES6160mlRoseLemonade(seehereoruseFentimans)150gsaltedbutteratroomtemperaturecutintocubes235gcastersugar160gplainfloursifted85mlsouredcream1largeegg2tspvanillaextract1frac12tspbicarbonateofsoda100gstrawberryjamahandfulofpalerosepetalstogarnish

FORTHESAFFRONANDCIDERBRANDYCUSTARD

12saffronstamens25mlciderbrandy480mldoublecream1vanillapod6eggyolks160gcastersugar

PuttheroselemonadeandbutterinapanandwarmoverthelowestpossibleheatuntilthebutteralmostmeltsthenremovefromtheheatAddthesugarandstirinwellWhiskinthesiftedflourin2stagesuntilcompletelyincorporatedthensetasideInaseparatebowlwhisktogetherthesouredcreameggvanillaextractandbicarbonateofsodaAddthistotheroselemonadeandflourmixtureandwhisktoincorporateoncemore

lemonadeandflourmixtureandwhisktoincorporateoncemore

Greasea12litrepuddingbasinwithbutterPutthestrawberryjaminthebottomofthebasinandtopwiththecakemixTakeapieceoffoillargeenoughtocoverthebasinandmakeapleatinthecentrethiswillallowthepuddingtoexpandduringcookingPutthefoiloverthebasinandtucktheedgesundertherimPutthebasininasteamercoverwithalidandsteamfor2hourscheckingthewaterlevelevery30minutesorsoandtoppingupwhennecessary(Thepuddingcanalsobesteamedinapressurecookeroveratrivetwith25cmwaterinthebottomatfullpressureforanhourtogetittothetablequicker)ThecustardcanbepreparedasthepuddingcomestotheendofitssteamingAddthesaffrontotheciderbrandytoinfusetheirheadyscentstogetherSplitthevanillapodopenandscrapeouttheseedsPuttheseedsandpodinaheavy-basedsaucepanwiththecreamandsetoveralowheatuntilalmostboilingRemovefromtheheatandletitcoolalittleWhisktheeggyolksandsugartogetherinabowluntiltheyolksturnpalethenpourinthecreamthroughasievewhiskingtocombinePourthemixtureintoacleanpanandsetoveralowheatCookstirringconstantlyuntilthemixturethickensItisimportantnottoleavethepanaloneatthisstageaswanderingconcentrationwillleadtoascrambledeggcustardIfyouhaveadigitalthermometerthecustardwillstarttothickenat70degCandbeatitsthickestat85degCndashanyhigherthanthatanditwillscrambleWithorwithoutathermometermuchoftheskillliesinbeingabletoseethischangeKeepacloseeyeonthecustardasyoustirandwatchforthemomentwhenthereisacleartrailleftbehindthespoononthebaseofthepanChalkupanotherkitchenskillwhenyouseethatvelvetsaucecompleted

Passthecustardthroughafinesieveandstirintheciderbrandyandsaffron

TurnthepuddingoutofthebasinandservewiththecustardSaffronandstrawberryisalip-smackingcombinationandcanbebetteredonlybytheadditionofafewpalerosepetalsscatteredoverthepuddingonceitisserved

VERMOUTH

EssentiallyvermouthismadewithabasewinethathasbeensweetenedwithamixtureofgrapejuiceandalcoholVariousbotanicalsextractsarethenaddedbeforematurationfilteringandbottlingThereareanincrediblenumberofvermouthsonthemarketatleast40varietiesTwoofthebest-knownaretheFrenchNoillyPratwhichuses20ndash30botanicalsandtheItalianMartiniRossiwhichcontains30Alsquotearsquoismadebymaceratingthebotanicalsinahighproofspiritinslowlyrevolvingbarrelsfor10ndash15daysthenasetratioofeachisaddedtothebasewineThisiseversoslightlymoreprofessionalthanshakingajamjarWewereinspiredbytheflavoursofAnticaFormulaandPunteMesand

bythesubtletyofBonmewhichcomesfromthePiedmontregionofItalyItisthecomplexitiesofvermouththatreallycapturedourattentionItworksasanaperitifacocktailingredientadigestifandasaningredientincookingThisisduetothemedicinalnatureofthebotanicalingredientssomestimulatehungerwhileotherssettlethestomachWewantedtocreateourownhousevermouththatmatchedourtastesanexpressionofourrestaurantandourlocationJackhadtoengageagooddealofgreymattertogethisheadaroundthemathswhenitcametothebotanicalsWhatfollowedwasnothingshortofalengthyprocessoftrialanderrorWehadbottlesandbottlesofvermouthallslightlydifferentasweincreasedanddecreasedtheproportionsofeachbotanicalteaTheEthicureanwaspepperedwithjarsofourexperimentsSomeweresoastringentthattheyresultedinextremefacialcontortionsamongstthefriendswhotriedthemWehadagoodchatwithJekkaMcVicarwhohelpeduschoosethevarietiesofherbsbestsuitedtoourrecipesandtobeinggrownintheWalledGardenTherecipebelowisforsweetvermouthbutthisisbynomeansadefinitiverecipeThepleasurecomesfromtryingoutyourowncombinationsPleasefeelfreetoleaveoutbotanicalsoraddnewonesofyourownWehaveincludedtheoptionofloweringthesugarcontentforadrierofferingSetasideasmallareaofyourkitchenandstackupthosejarsofmacerating

botanicalsTrythemallindividuallynotingtheirflavoursandyouwillgraduallybegintobeabletobuildyourownvermouthbasedonyourchosenprofileTheremayevenbethepossibilityofsubstitutingsomewildbitteringagentsforsomeoftheexoticbitterbotanicalsHereisashortlistof

possibilitiesCHAMOMILEusedinlotsofvermouthsaddsagoodfloralflavour

GORSEFLOWERSalternativebitterflavourMARITIMEPINENEEDLESresinousflavourFENNELSEEDSusedinsomevermouths

EQUIPMENT

bullScalesthatmeasureto01ofagramarecrucialforweighingoutthesmallamountsofeachbotanicalteaTheyareagreatpieceofequipmentandquiteinexpensivebullAhydrometerisusefulforworkingoutthealcoholcontentofyourfinishedvermouthbull20sterilejamjarsforthebotanicalsbullApipetteforaddingeachbotanicalteaalthoughateaspoonwillsufficebullAsmallteastrainerwillhelptokeepoutanypiecesofthebotanicalswhenaddingtheteatothebasewine

TheEthicureanVermouthBotanicals

ANGELICASEEDS(Angelicaarchangelica)Similarinaromatojuniper

BAY(Laurusnobilis)MedicinalqualitiesAnti-inflammatoryantibacterial

BLACKPEPPER(Pipernigrum)Hotwoodandfloralflavours

CARDAMOM(Amomumcardamom)AromaticandresinousdigestiveUsedtotreatinfections

CINAMMON(Cinnamomumverum)LaurelfamilySweetaromaticspice

CLOVE(Syzygiumaromaticum)CentralandSouthernEuropeprincipalingredientinAngosturabittersgoodfordigestionContainsglycosidesoneofthemostbitternaturalcompoundsknownandeugenolwhichhasantisepticandanaestheticqualities

CORIANDER(Coriandrumsativum)LemonandcitrusflavourWarmnuttyspicyorange

GENTIANROOT(Gentianalutea)VerybitterusedinAngostorabitters

JUNIPER(Juniperuscommunis)Pineyandresinous

MARJORAM(Origanummajorana)Balsamicandaromaticflavour

NUTMEG(Myristicafragrans)PreservinganddelicateagentORANGEPEELAromaticsweetonthenoseandforusakeyelementofourvermouth

ORRIS(Irisgermanica)EnhancesotheraromasandperfumesViolet-likesmelltasteslikeraspberry

QUASSIABARK(Quassiaamara)Quassinisthebitterestsubstanceinnature

ROSEMARY(Rosmarinusofficinalis)Aromaticwarmandslightlybitter

SAGE(Salviaofficinalis)containsthujoneaslightlyantiseptic-tastingcompoundSavouryflavour

STARANISE(Illiciumverum)AgreatflavourenhancerRichspice

VANILLA(Vanillaplanifolia)Addsaflavourofagedoakwhichisfoundinmaturevermouths

WORMWOOD(Artemisiaabsinthium)VerybittermedicinalpropertiesKeyingredientforanauthenticvermouth

YARROW(Achilleamillefolium)VerybitterOftencalledarrowrootintheUKitisregardedasahealingherb

Vermouth

QUANTITIESFOREACHBOTANICALTEA

Angelicaseeds15gBayleaves15gBlackpeppercorns10g

Blackpeppercorns10gCardamom1gCinammon83gClove05gCoriander15gGentianroot2gJuniper15gMarjoram5gNutmeg5gOrangepeel146gOrris6gQuassiabark4gRosemary5gSage15gStaranise5gVanilla5gWormwood4gYarrow2g

YourvermouthcanbestoredinasterilisedbottlewithagoodsealvacuumpumpingitisaverysensibleideaStoreinthefridgeanddrinkwithinacoupleofmonthswearesurethatitwillbegoneinaweek

ThebotanicalslistedherecanallbepurchasedonlineorfromChineseherbalistsWeuseacrispdryEnglishwhitewinefromSomersetasourbasewinealthoughinthepastwehaveusedaColombardandGrosMansengblendTryoutafewwhitewinesandseewhichoneyouprefer

WemakeourowncaramelandaddittothewineHoweverreducingtheamountofcaramelcanmakeverygooddryvermouthSweetvermouthtypicallycontains10ndash15percentsugarwhileadryonewillcontainnomorethan5percentItiscrucialtoraisethealcoholbyvolumeofthewine(thisisachievedbyaddingthebotanicalteas)asat13ndash15percentalcoholtheyeastwillstopconvertinggrapesugarsThisisimportantasyoudonotwantabottlethatwillcontinuetofermentAMuscatwinemakesanexcellentsweetvermouth

Thebasicproportionsforthisrecipeare500mlwine150mlintotalofthebotanicalteas200gcaramelThisyieldsjustunder700mlvermouth

TakeasmalljamjarandfillitaroundathirdfullwithyourbotanicalTopuptotwicetheheightthatthebotanicalreacheswithahighproofvodkaScrewonthelidandleavetomacerateatroomtemperaturefor2weeks

WhenmakingthecaramelforthevermouthfollowtheinstructionsforthesaltcaramelonhereomittingthesaltWerecommendtakingthecarameltoadarkambercolourforextradepthandcomplexityHeatingittosomewherebetween185and188degCwilldothetrickThiscanbepouredontoasiliconematandallowedtocoolintoasolidcaramelItcanbestoredinthesamewayasthesaltcarameluntilneeded

Whencombiningthecaramelwiththewineaddaquarterofthewine(oraslittleasneededtodissolvethecaramel)toapanandplaceonalowheatAddthecaramelshardsandstiruntilcompletelydissolvedAllowthemixturetocooltoroomtemperaturebeforecombiningwiththeremainingwineAddthebotanicalsintheproportionsgivenabovePleasetasteasyouaddthemasthiswillgiveyouasenseofwhateachingredientaddstoyourvermouth

HOWTOOAKYOURVERMOUTH

IfyouwouldliketotryoakingyourvermouthyouwillneedalargesterilisedjarwithawideneckPlaceahandfulofcleanoakchipsinthecentreofapieceofsterilisedmuslinandtiewitha

pieceofstringDropthebagofoakchipsintothejarandtopupwiththevermouthTryleavingforaweekandtasteregularlySomeofthebestvermouthsarematuredinoakthisisagreat

wayofsimulatingthatmaturationprocess

AtipforsterilisingtheoakchipswithoutremovingtoomuchoftheirflavourandtanninsistosteamthemPlaceinapanwithadropofwaterandalidturnuptoamediumheatandthechips

willsteam

RoseLemonade

WehavelovedFentimansrsquobotanicallybreweddrinksforyearsRecentlywehadadabbleatcookingwithsomeofthemandthewinnerwasroselemonadeWedecidedtoworkoutarecipeforourownversionInordertobrewitproperlywefirsthadtotrackdownagingerbeerplant(GBP)whichisessentiallyayeastcalledSaccharomycesflorentinusandabacteriumcalledBrevibacteriumvermiformeThesetwounlikelyfriendsformagelatinoussubstanceandasymbioticrelationshipwithinwhichtheyeastexcretes

alcoholandthebacteriumconsumesitYeasthasalowtoleranceofalcoholwhichofcourseremainslowduetothebacteriumGBPisbetterformakingdrinksthanordinaryyeastbecauseyouendupwithmuchbetterflavourslowalcoholandlittlechanceofdangerousexplosionsWeeventuallyfoundasupplieronlineandreceivedalittleenvelope

containingapacketofwhitejelly-likesubstanceyeastysweetandalcoholicWaitinglistspaymentsrefundsandrepaymentsfollowedAlittleresearchtoldusthataverycleverchapbythenameofHarryMarshallWarddiscoveredGBPrsquostalentforbrewingin1892WeusedJapaneserosepetalsRosarugosaastheyreallydoofferthefinest

flavourIfyoucanrsquotgettheseyoucouldtrydriedrosepetalsPleaseavoidrosesthathavebeensprayedwithchemicalsThegeneralruleisthatthepalervarietieshaveabetterflavour

MAKES2LITRES250gcastersugarjuiceandzestof1lemon25cmpieceoffreshgingerroughlychoppedahandfulofrosepetals1tbspGBP

ItisreallyimportanttosterilisealltheequipmentyouuseincludingthemuslinandstringYoucandothisbypouringboilingwaterovereverythingandthenleavingittodryPutthesugarandlemonzestinapanwith250mlwaterBringtoalightsimmerstirringtodissolvethesugarthenremovefromtheheatandleavetocool

Pour175litreswaterintoalargecontainer(alargeliddedplasticboxisfine)andaddthelemonjuicethiswillneutralisethechlorinegenerallypresentintapwaterwhichwouldotherwiseaffecttheyeastrsquosproductivityStraininthesugarandwatermixturePutthegingerinapieceofmuslintiewithstringanddropitinAddtheGBPthencoverandleaveatroomtemperaturefor5daysBesuretoopenthelidbrieflyeverydayinordertoletoutanycarbondioxidethathasbuiltupotherwiseitwillopenofitsownaccord

Strainthemixturethroughafinesieveintoasterilised2litreplasticbottle

Strainthemixturethroughafinesieveintoasterilised2litreplasticbottleandputonthetopSavetheGBPandgiveitarinseitwillhavegrown(Ifyoustoreitinthefridgeinasmallsterilecontaineritwillkeepforupto2weeks)After2daystheroselemonadewillbereadytodrinkalthoughifyoudesireafizzierbrewleaveitforlongerRefrigerationwillhaltanyfurtherfermentation

TheEthicureanCocktail

ThiscocktailhasquicklybecomeaclassicatTheEthicureanadelightfulbalanceofsweetsharpandsavouryAsthedayslengthenitmakesaperfectpre-dinnerdrinkinthegardenThymehasantisepticqualitiesasdohoneyandlemonmakingthisanexcellentpick-me-upwithorwithoutthevodkaInvestinginaninexpensiveBostoncocktailshakerisaverygoodideaIt

allowsyoutobuildandshakedrinkscontainingjuiceaeratingthemchillingthemquicklyandformingapleasingfrothMostbartenderswouldadvisethatshakingshouldbeusedonlywhendrinkscontainsomejuiceYouwillsignificantlylowerthetemperaturebyshakingbutexpectasmalllevelofdilutionfromtheiceIfalltheingredientsareclearstirringisthebetteroptionpreservingtheclarityofthedrink

SERVES1icecubesfrac14lemon2sprigsofthymeplus1toserve1tsphoney25mlChaseEnglishPotatovodka100mlapplejuice

Fillyourglasstotherimwithice

SqueezethewedgeoflemonintotheglasspartofaBostonshakerthendropinthesqueezedlemonwedgetogetherwiththethymeMashtogetherwithawoodenpestleAddthehoneypouringinjustalittlewarmwatertodissolveMeasureoutthevodkatherersquosnoharminadoubleifthewindtakesyouandpouritontotheotheringredientsAddtheapplejuiceandtopuptojustbelowtherimwithiceTapthetinontopoftheglassandshaketillwatercondensesontheoutsideoftheshakerSeparatebyusingtheheelofyourhandtoknockwheretheglassandtinaretouchingPourthoselastfewpreciousdropsintothetinthenplaceaHawthornestraineroverthetinandpourthemixtureintoyourchilledglassTopupwithiceandasmallsprigofthymethenaddmorejuicetotaste

HONEYANDTHYMESYRUP

WeliketomakeahalfandhalfsyruptouseinthecocktailaboveIfyouaremakingafewcocktailsitrsquosagoodwayofsavingtime

1tsphoneypercocktail1sprigofthymeforeverydrinkyouwouldlike

Placethehoneyandthymeinapanandadd1teaspoonofwaterforeveryteaspoonofhoneyBringgentlytoasimmerthenremovefromtheheatandleavetocoolStrainintoasterilisedcontainerandstoreinthefridgeitwillkeepfor2weeks

Negroni

TheNegroniisanenduringclassicThepreserveofbartendersandrestaurateursithasasatisfyingbitternessthatiswelcomeafteralongshiftWefindourselvessettledinbythesecondThiscocktailismorethanthesumofitspartsanditssuccessrestsonitsbalancedsimplicityWeuseourownVermouth(seehere)butAnticaFormulaandPunteMesmakesuperbonesWehavealsoservedthisdrinkwithasageleafasagarnishasitfindsa

harmoniousplaceamongstthearomaticsintheginandvermouth

SERVES11orange25mlgin25mlvermouth(seehere)25mlCampari

ChillatumblerwithicetoppedupwithwaterTakeafinesliceofzestfromtheorangeavoidingthebitterpithFillalargeglassonethirdfullwithiceandpourovertheginvermouthandCampariStiruntiltheoutsideoftheglasscondensesthenstrainintothechilledtumblerandsqueezealittleofthepreciousflavourfromtheorangezestBrushtherimofthetumblerwiththeorangezestthenpinchandsqueezeitovertheglasstoreleasetheessentialoilsTopupwithicetobelowtherim(aboveismostuncouth)thenslotinasliceoforange

Foratwisttrystirringacoupleoflovageleavesintothecontentsofthemixingglass

VERMOUTH

Althoughtheearliestreferencestoanaromatisedwinecropuparound1250BCinChinaandIndiaittookawhiletocatchoninEnglandPurlwasaseventeenth-centurybitteraleinfused

withwormwoodandafewotherbotanicalsmainlyusedtosettlethestomachBy1690lsquoStoughtonrsquosGreatCordialElixirrsquoaninfusionof22botanicalshadbecomeapopularcurefor

hangoversandgastricailmentslsquoDrankbymostgentlemenhelliptorecoverandrestoreaweakenrsquodstomachorlostappetitehellipoccasionedbyharddrinkingorsicknessrsquo(Imbibehere)

VermouthasweknowittodaybeganlifeintheregionaroundTurinItalyintheeighteenthcenturyRelativelysweetwithafull-bodiedherbaceousflavourthisdark-reddrinkwasfollowed

bydrierstraw-colouredstylesfromFranceinparticularChambeacuteryintheSavoieregion

RecipeList

FigsWrappedinPorkBellywithLavenderandBuffaloMozzarellaCaramelisedChicoryLabnehandMaceratedStrawberrySalad

RoastedTomatoandLiquoriceBasilSoupRoastedCourgetteandCobnutSoupwithLabnehandGinger

TurmericandMintDressingSousedMackerelCarrotFennelandSaffronwithGooseberryand

MintGranitaChilledBeetrootSoupPar-celWalnutIceCreamandRoasted

CobnutOilEwersquos-curd-stuffedCourgetteFlowerswithFennelSherbet

GlobeArtichokeswithHollandaiseSauceandSumacPeaGoatBaconandLovageBroth

ScallopsinPuffPastrywithVermouthandFennelCreamPickledPollackwithFlame-roastedPeppersCucumberPulBiber

ChilliandWaterMintDorsetBlueVinnyandFlame-roastedPepperswithCharredLittle

GemJohnDorywithMorelMushroomsFlatBeansHaricotBeansand

HamHockStockMusselsinCiderwithTarragon

SteamedMegrimSolewithRockSamphireandSumac-braisedFennel

PickledrocksamphireWaterBuffaloFilletwithClearChickenStockTarragonandSalt-

bakedBabyBeets

BarbecuedHorseMackerelwithCobnutSalbitxadaSauceFennelandSumacGravadTrout

WhiteRaspberryLoganberryandEwersquosYoghurtTerrinewithSweetCicelyConfit

ElderflowerSorbetwithFennelSherbetandWildStrawberriesPineappleWeedJelly

ElderflowerandLavenderMarshmallowsSpicedGingerBeer

SummerElderRawRhubarbSmash

DoubleSloeGinandTonic

SUMMERARRIVESWHENTHEcentralwalkwaythroughtheyewhedgeshasprogressedfromacarpettoagraduatingwallofcolourThisisMaddytheflowergardenerrsquosfavouritetimeastheperennialstaketheirplaceonthestageTherearenepetaachilleasalviaandgeraniums

OnMidsummerrsquosEvebonfirescanbeseenontheMendipsatduskastheoldpaganceremonyofstrengtheningthesuntakesplaceInthetrackthroughtheorchardthelavenderisbeginningtoflowersomeofitdestinedformarshmallowsservedtoastedtoorderintheglasshouseMarkcarriesupboxesofstrawberriesstillcoveredinstrawtheoddwoodlouseScramblingtosafetyThewildstrawberriesbarelyamouthfularepickedaswegathermintandthenewbright-greenlovageleaves

MatthewandPaucircladisappearforadaytotheirsamphirespotinSouthWalesTheyreturnwitharmfulsofthissaltyvegetablenotawhisperofthenameofthebeachTheropehanginginthedippingpondisaladderforthefirstdragonfliesoftheyeartakingwingThepondonceusedforwateringcansisteemingwithlife

MarkhassownsaladleavesthatresistboltingintheheatAnhourafterhepicksthemtheysitlayeredonplateswithpickledpollockandredpeppersWeroastthedeep-redpeppersandpurpleauberginesoveranopenflameuntiltheychangefromrichredandpurpletoashblackThesmellisperfectTheycoolbeforetheskinispeeled

Theelderhedgeprovidesuswiththefirststar-headedelderflowerswiththeirtranquilscentNextcometheberriesandsomewillbepickedunripetobepickledwithpepperandSaltndashwethinkofthemasSomersetcapers

IndescendingordertiedtofencepostsareraspberriesblackberriesloganberriesandwhiteraspberriesThesefruitsmaketheirwayintomyriadrecipessetcreamssorbetsjamsandvinegarsThewhiteraspberriesaremuddledincocktailsprovidinganaciditythatmakeslemonredundantAswefillcontainerswearecarefulnottopickahoneybeeIvorthebeekeeperarrivesandopensthehiveThequeenrsquoswingsareclippedsheismarkedandthenreturnedTheespaliersaredroopingundertheweightoffruitThereareapricotsgreengagesandVictoriaplumsOnthestovesitsanever-bubblingpanoffruitndashgreengageandvanillaperhapsorblackberrywith

bubblingpanoffruitndashgreengageandvanillaperhapsorblackberrywithbourbonwhiskey

TheartichokesplumpandgreenwithsharpscalesaresnippedoffaboveanysecondarybudsThekitchenmakesahollandaiseandtheglobesarecookedandplacedinabowlservedwiththisbutterysauceWithin20minutestherimissurroundedbystrippedpetalsandfingersreachfortheheart

MaddyrsquosflowersarejoinedbythebloomsofcampanulaechinaceaandpotentillaTheborderoutsidetheglasshouseisamovingriotofbutterfliesandhoneybeeswhiletheoddoneisskilfullyfreedfromthediningroom

BythistimethefoxgloveshavebeguntotumbleovertopheavywithblueflowersMeanwhilethefirstapplesarestartingtocropWorcesterPearmainBeautyofBathandCheddarGoldarecollectedintrugsandbasketsThedaysareshorteningandthecropsarepreservedpickledandstored

FigsWrappedinPorkBellywithLavenderandBuffaloMozzarella

CompromiseisdifficultwhenyouareabigfanoffigsTheyarewonderfulwhentheyareripebutnotreallyworthtastingatanyotherstageUnripefigshavegottobeoneofthemostdisappointingfoodsthereisTheproblemisthattheyaresodifficulttotransportthateitheryouhavetogrowthemyourselforbeclosetoagoodsourceContrarytopopularbelieffigtreesdogrowwellintheUKGrantedtheyarenomatchinsizeforsomeEuropeanvarietiesbuttheirfreshnessmakesupforwhatmightinitiallybeperceivedasadeficiencyThefigtreeattheWalledGardenneverceasestosurpriseusasitseemsto

beoblivioustothevolatilityoftheBritishweatherItlivesinablissfulstateofconstantexpansionextendingitsleafybrancheswithoutshameclaimingthefrontbrickarchwayasitsrightfulareaensuringthatallvisitorspassing

thefrontbrickarchwayasitsrightfulareaensuringthatallvisitorspassingthroughthetopgatearewelcomedbyitsgenerouspresenceAssummerprogressesopeningtheheavywoodengatewithoutdamagingthetreersquosbranchesbecomesmoreandmorechallengingItisalmostasifitistryingtoremindusofitshealthygrowtheverymorningThereisnoneedforsuchattention-seekingbehaviourItisoneofthemostwatchedtreesinourgardenThefigsaresoprecioustousthatwecannotriskanyofthembeingwastedFigshaveanaturalaffinitywithsaltyingredientsandarecommonly

servedwithprosciuttoHoweverwefindthatinthisdishthecrunchofthefigseedsisgreatlyenhancedbythecrispinessofthecuredporkbellyHoneyandfigsisanothercombinationthatworksremarkablywellWe

trieditwithlavenderhoneyandfoundthatitwasevenbetterItmadesensethentousestalksoflavendertoattachtheporkbellytothefigThecreaminessofthebuffalomozzarellaservestobalancethesweetnessof

thehoneyandfigswiththesaltinessoftheporkbellyTohaveaccesstoBritish-madebuffalomilkmozzarellafromLaverstokeParkFarmisassatisfyingashavingaBritish-madechorizosausage(seehere)Eachhassomanyapplicationsinthekitchenthatanychefseekingtousesolelylocalingredientshasmuchcausetocelebrate

SERVES48ripefigs1buffalomilkmozzarellaslicedinto8pieces16slicesofcuredporkbellysuchaspancetta16lavenderspearsfromlavenderinflower4tsplavenderhoney

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6WashanddrythefigstakingcarenottodamagetheskinCutacross2ndash3cmdeepthroughthestemofeachandopenthefiguplikeaflowerStuffasliceofmozzarellaintoeachfigthenwrap2slicesofcuredporkbellyroundtheoutsideSpikeeachfigwith2lavenderflowerspearstoholdtheporkinplaceduringbaking

Putthefigsinabakingdishdrizzlefrac12teaspoonoflavenderhoneyovereachoneandcookfor10ndash12minutesuntiltheporkbellyiscrispandthefigslightlycaramelisedCoolslightlybeforeserving

lightlycaramelisedCoolslightlybeforeserving

CaramelisedChicoryLabnehandMaceratedStrawberrySalad

ThearrivalofsummerattheWalledGardenoftentakesusbysurpriseThefirstsignisthequietmurmurofinsectsfromvariouscornersofthegardenthentheburstofcolourintheherbaceousbordersalongsidethecentralbrickpathAstheinsectsnoisilygatheraroundtheseflowerswerealisethatsummerhastiptoedinTherefollowschild-likeexcitementfromkitchenfolkandfront-of-housestaffalikeThearrivalofsummermeansmoreingredientstoexperimentwithandmoreexcusesforforaysaroundthegardenThissaladshowcasesallthatisgreatabouttheseasonStrawberriesare

particularlyimportanttotheSomersetareaNotfarfromusyouwillfindthefamousStrawberryLineanoldrailwaylinenowacyclepathwhichrunsthroughneighbouringvillagesBuiltintheVictorianeraittookitsnamefromthefamousCheddarstrawberriesthatusedtobecarriedalongthelinetoLondonInthisrecipeweusechicoryasacontrasttothetangysweetnessofthemaceratedstrawberries

SERVES4500gewersquosmilkyoghurtfrac12tspsalt120gmedium-sizedstrawberrieshulledandslicedverticallyinto3about200mlcidervinegar300gcastersugar6largeheadsofchicorycutintoquartersthroughtherooticingsugarfordustingalittlegroundcinnamonalittlecobnutoil(orhazelnutoil)afewborageflowers(optional)blackpepper

PreparethelabnehandstrawberriesadayinadvanceLineasievewithapieceofmuslinoraclothallowingtheendstooverhangthesievePuttheyoghurtinandmixinthesaltCovertheyoghurtwiththeendsofthe

yoghurtinandmixinthesaltCovertheyoghurtwiththeendsofthemuslinandthenplacethesieveoverabowlLeaveinthefridgeovernightThefollowingdayliquidwillhavecollectedinthebowlandtheyoghurtwillbethickerandcreamierDiscardtheliquidandspoontheyoghurtintoanairtightcontainerKeepinthefridgeuntilneeded

PuttheslicedstrawberriesinaplasticboxandpourinenoughcidervinegarjusttocoverthemCoverandleaveinthefridgeovernightThenextdaystrainoffthevinegarintoabowlAddthecastersugartoitandstirthoroughlyuntildissolvedPourthevinegaroverthestrawberriesandrefrigerateuntilneeded

Placeagriddlepanoveramedium-highheatuntilhotLightlydustthechicorywithicingsugarandthenplaceflat-sidedownonthegriddleCookwithoutmovingituntilitbeginstocarameliseunderneathandcharredlinesdevelopTurnthepiecesontotheirotherflatsideandrepeatthenflipthemontotheirroundedsideandcookuntiltenderRemovethechicoryfromthegriddlepanandsetasidetocoolalittle

Dividethechicorybetween4platesspreadingoutsomeoftheleavesDotthestrawberriesthroughoutthenaddseveralteaspoonsofthelabnehSprinklecinnamonoverthelabnehDresswithcobnutoilsomeofthemaceratingliquidfromthestrawberriesandborageflowersifyouhaveanyCoarselygrindsomeblackpepperoverthestrawberriesandserveimmediately

RoastedTomatoandLiquoriceBasilSoup

RoastingorcaramelisingvegetablescantransformanaveragesoupintosomethingtrulyspectacularPairitwithalittletexturalcontrastandburstsofflavouraswedoherewithbasilcroutonsandgoldentomatoandapplebalsamicjelliesandyouaregoingfarbeyondwhatmostpeoplehavecometoexpectwhentheyhearthewordsoupTheflavoursyoucanachievebyroastingtomatoesaregloriousIndeedit

ishardtothinkofaculinaryworldwithouttomatoesAsPaucirclaourresidentMexicanwillproudlytellyoutheyarenativetoMexicoTheSpaniardsbroughtthembacktosouthernEuropeforcultivationonamajorscaleDryingoutsomeofthemoisturefromthetomatoesintensifiestheirflavourandthebrowningfromtheroastingprocessaddsanewcomplexitytooneofourfavouriteingredientsTomatoesareagreatsourceofumami(seehere)WhentheyarecombinedwithmushroomstockinthisrecipeweachievesavouryheavenAddtothatawarminfusionofherbsandpiecesofthetomatovinewhichcontainsincrediblyfresharomatictomatoflavoursandweguaranteethatthisisasouptorivalanyyouhavehadbeforeWeuseastrainofliquoricebasilinthisrecipeastheanisenotesmakea

superbaccompanimenttotomatoMarkthegardenerspoilsuswithuniqueheritageorheirloomstrainsofplantsandherbseachwitharicherflavourthanthecommonhybridisedstrainsHegrowscinnamonbasilalongsidetomatoestoattractpestsawayfromtheredfruitplantsSeekoutaheritageorheirloomseedcompanyifyouareinterestedingrowingherbsastheywilldelightfromaculinaryaspectbutwillalsoprovideseedforthefollowingyearsGenovesebasilmammothbasilandMrsBurnslemonbasilareheirloomvarietieswellworthsearchingfor

SERVES4

SERVES41kgvine-ripenedtomatoesvinesreserved2garlicclovespeeled2bayleaves10sprigsofthyme20gbasilleaves(seehere)

rapeseedoilfrac14tspsmokedpaprika100mlmushroomstock(seehere)100mlwhitechickenstock(seehere)2dashesofWorcestershiresaucecidervinegar1tbsptomatopureacuteeseasalt

FORTHEGOLDENTOMATOJELLY(OPTIONALBUTRECOMMENDED)500ggoldentomatoesfrac14tspagaragarpowder

FORTHEAPPLEBALSAMICJELLY(OPTIONALBUTRECOMMENDED)200mlapplebalsamicvinegar(suchasAspallrsquos)frac12tspagaragarpowder

FORTHEBASILCROUTONS(OPTIONALBUTRECOMMENDED)

1thicksliceofsourdoughbreadcutinto1ndash2cmcubesrapeseedoiltocoat1ndash2tspicingsugar10gbasilleavesflakyseasalt

StartbypeelingthetomatoesTheeasiestwaytodothisistocutawidecrossatthebaseofeachtomatoscoringonlythroughtheskinHaveabowloficedwateratthereadyPutthescoredtomatoesinabowlpourboilingwateroverthemandleavefornomorethan30secondstheskinsshouldsplitwhereyoumadetheincisionRemovefromthewaterandplungestraightintotheicedwaterLeaveuntilcoldthenpeelofftheskins

Heattheovento180degCGasMark4Slicethetomatoesintoquartersandputtheminaroastingtraycut-sideupAddthegarlicclovesbayleaveshalfthethymesprigsandhalfthebasilleavesDrizzlewithenoughrapeseedoiltocoattheingredientslightlyandaddageneroussprinklingofseasaltPlaceintheovenandroastfor20ndash30minutesuntiltheedgesofthe

Placeintheovenandroastfor20ndash30minutesuntiltheedgesofthetomatoesbegintoblackenTakeoutoftheovenandleavetocoolRemovethebayleavesthymeandbasilanddiscard

Transferthetomatoesgarlicandtomatopureacuteetoablenderwiththesmokedpaprikaandblitzonfullspeedfor1minuteAddthemushroomstockandchickenstockandblitzforabout2minutesPassthroughafinesieveintoasaucepanaddtheWorcestershiresauceandbringtoasimmerImmediatelyremovefromtheheatandaddthereservedtomatovinesplustheremainingbasilandthymeLeavetoinfuseinawarmplacefor15minutesStrainthroughafinesieveoncemoreseasonwithsalttotasteandadashofcidervinegarforalittlewelcomeacidityIfyouleftthesouptoinfusesomewherewarmenoughitshouldstillbeagoodtemperaturetoeatIfyoupreferitalittlewarmerthenreheatquicklyandserveimmediatelyndashwithalloranyoftheoptionalgarnishesifyoulike

Ifmakingthejelliesitisusefultoknowthatagaragarwillremainstableuptoroughly80degCWeusuallyserveoursoupsaround75degC

Forthegoldentomatojellyblitzthetomatoestoapureacuteeinafoodprocessorfor2minutesPlaceinafinesievesetoverabowlandleavetodrainuntilyouhave200mlliquidPressgentlywiththebackofaladleifthetomatoesneedalittlecoaxingTasteandseasonwithsalttotastePuttheliquidinasaucepanandslowlyaddtheagaragarstirringconstantlyBringtotheboiloverahighheattohydratetheagaragarImmediatelyremovefromtheheatandpourintoasquareorrectangularTupperwarecontainerthatallowstheliquidtobe1cmdeepLeavetocooltheliquidwillsetTurnoutontoaboardandcutinto1cmcubesStorecoveredinthefridgeuntilneeded

FortheapplebalsamicjellyputthevinegarinasaucepanandslowlyaddtheagaragarstirringconstantlyBringtotheboiloverahighheatthenimmediatelyremovefromtheheatandpourintoasquareorrectangularTupperwarecontainerthatallowstheliquidtobe1cmdeepAllowtocoolandsetthencutinto1cmcubesasforthetomatojellyStoreinthefridgeDropthejellycubesintothehotsoupimmediatelybeforeserving

IfyouwanttoservethesoupwiththecroutonstossthecubesofbreadinalittlerapeseedoilandflakyseasaltuntillightlycoatedthensiftafineevenlayeroficingsugaroverthemPutthebreadinaroastingtraywiththebasil

layeroficingsugaroverthemPutthebreadinaroastingtraywiththebasilandplaceinanovenpreheatedto180degCGasMark4Cookfor5ndash10minutesuntilgoldenbrowntossinghalfwaythroughtoensureevenbrowningScatterthecroutonsoverthesouptoserve

WARMINFUSIONS

TheflavourofmostgreenherbsdullsafterevenashortperiodofcookingInfusingliquidsstocksandevensoupswithherbsatthelastminuteensuresthatthegreennotesofeachherbremainasfreshandpungentaswhentheywerepickedThemostcommonwaytoprepareawarminfusionistobringabout500mlliquidtotheboilremovefromtheheatimmediatelyandaddahandfulofherbsLeavetoinfusefor15ndash20minutesthenstrainthroughaveryfinesievetasteanduseimmediatelyWerecommendexperimentingwiththismethodOccasionallyyouwillneedmoreherbsthanyoumightexpecttogetthedesiredresult

moreherbsthanyoumightexpecttogetthedesiredresult

RoastedCourgetteandCobnutSoupwithLabnehandGingerTurmericandMintDressing

CourgettesarearelativelyrecentadditiontoBritishcookingbecomingwidelyknownonlyinthemidtwentiethcenturyasaresultofElizabethDavidrsquoswritingAdmittedlytheyarenotthemostfascinatingofvegetablesbutlabellingthemastastelessorwateryisunfairinourviewWhilsttheydohaveahighwatercontent(theyareafterallrelatedtowatermelonsandcucumbers)wewouldurgeanyonewhothinkstheyaretastelesstotrygrowingtheirownWhentheyaresmallandfreshtheyhaveasubtlenuttinessunlikeanyothermemberoftheCucurbitafamilytowhichtheybelongTheadditionoftoastedcobnutsinthisdishemphasisesthenuttinessinherentinourfreshproducemagnificentlyThereisanimpressiverowofcobnuttreesinthelowercornerofthe

WalledGardenResemblingagroupofwiselycontentelderstheseprosperousleafytreesareknownforbeingeasytokeepThisisprobablywhytheyarelovedbyallatBarleyWoodparticularlysquirrelsandchefs

SERVES81kgsmallfirmcourgettesslicedinto2cmpiecesrapeseedoil500gonionsfinelysliced250gcarrotsfinelysliced250gceleryfinelysliced1tbspsaltplusmoreforthefinalseasoning40gfreshcobnutsfinelychoppedthenlightlytoastedinadryfryingpan

FORTHELABNEH

500gyoghurtfrac12tspsalt1tbspfinelychoppedmarjoram1tbspfinelychoppedoregano

FORTHEGINGERTURMERICANDMINTDRESSING

85mlrapeseedoil

85mlrapeseedoil50mlcidervinegar1tspEnglishmustardfrac12tspgroundgingerfrac14tspgroundturmeric1tspchoppedmint

ThelabnehmustbemadeadayinadvanceLineasievewithapieceofmuslinandputtheyoghurtinitStirinthesaltcoverwiththeoverhangingendsofthemuslinandthensetoverabowlndashitshouldbedeepenoughtoallowtheliquidtodrainofftheyoghurtLeaveinthefridgeovernightThefollowingdaydiscardtheliquidunwrapthelabnehandputitinabowlStirintheherbsKeepinthefridgeuntilneeded

Tomakethedressingblendalltheingredientstogetheruntilwellcombinedthenseasonwithsalttotaste

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6TossthecourgetteswithalittlerapeseedoiluntillightlycoatedthenspreadthemoutinaroastingtrayPlaceintheovenandroastfor20minutesMeanwhileheatathinfilmofrapeseedoilinalargesaucepanaddtheonionscarrotsandceleryandsweatfor10ndash15minutesuntiltenderStirregularlyanddonotallowthevegetablestocolourAddtheroastedcourgettesandsweatfor5minuteslongerAddenoughwaterbarelytocoverthevegetablesandbringtoagentlesimmerAddthesaltandcookfor5minutesthendecantintoablenderinbatchesifnecessaryBlitzuntilsmooththenaddenoughwatertotakeittoyourdesiredconsistencywelikeitonthethinsideBlitzoncemorethenpassthroughafinesieveforavelvetymouthfeelSeasonwithsalttotaste(TheSoupcanbekeptinthefridgeforupto5daysatthispoint)ReheatgentlythenpourthesoupintoservingbowlsandfinisheachonewithatablespoonoflabnehasprinklingofchoppedcobnutsandadrizzleofthedressingServewithseededbreadandsaltedbutter

daggerCobnutsareoneofthemostwonderfulhistoricallyrichnativenutswehaveyetsurprisinglytheyaregreatlyunderusedinBritishcookingAvarietyofhazelnutthecobnuthasbeenpresentinourgardensandorchardssinceatleastthesixteenthcenturyHistoricallycobnutshavebeeninstrumentalinhedgerow-growingformingadenseboundaryto

keepdomesticlivestockcontainedTheykeepfreshformonthsandwerethusavaluablesourceofproteinforthoseatseaThemostcommonvarietytheKentishcobwasintroducedaround1830ItwasgrownsosuccessfullyinKentthatcultivationincreaseddramaticallyintheHomeCountiesfromwherecobnutscouldbequicklytransportedtoLondonDuringtheFirstWorldWarlabourintheUKbecamemoreexpensiveandthenativeplantscouldnotcompetewithimportedfruitandnutsThisledtothedemiseofplantsinKentculminatinginnear-extinctionbytheearly1990s

SousedMackerelCarrotFennelandSaffronwithGooseberryandMintGranita

MackerelareoneofthemoststunningfishinBritishwatersTheirstripygreenish-bluebackaffordsthemexcellentcamouflagefromabovewhiletheirsilverbellygivesanimpressivealmostethereallookastheyswimatgreatspeedinpurposefulshoalsThebesttimetoeatmackerelisinthesummerItisthenthattheygather

closetoshoreinsearchoffryallowingthemtobeeasilyline-caughtamoresustainablefishingmethodthannetsortrawlingItisalsowhentheystarttoputontheweightthatwillallowthemtoliveindeepwatersduringwinterTheadditionalweightisrichinomega-3fattyacidsandconsequentlytheyareOneofthehealthiestfishyouwillhavethepleasureofeatingWhenpurchasinglookoutforfirmshinyfleshandbrighteyesassignsoffreshnessSousingorpicklingmackerelisagreatwayofpreservingit

freshnessSousingorpicklingmackerelisagreatwayofpreservingitMackerelrsquospairingwithgooseberryisaclassiccombinationthathas

survivedthetestoftimeThenaturalpartnershipbetweenthesetwoingredientshasnotgoneunnoticedbytheFrenchwhonamedthegooseberrygroseilleagravemaquereauormackerelberrySadlygooseberriesarenotgrownintheWalledGardensowegetthemfromourfriendsattheCommunityFarmacoupleofmilesdowntheroadForaberrythatisregardedbysomeasaquintessentialBritishfruit

gooseberriesareprettyelusiveevenwheninseasoninJuneandJulyThefactthattheyhaveoftenbeencriticisedforbeingtootartmighthaveledtotheirdemise

SERVES4ndash61times350ndash500gmackerelfilleted8ndash12saffronstrands

FORTHECURE

100gfineseasalt100gcastersugar1tbspcorianderseeds

FORTHESOUSINGLIQUOR

250mlvintagecidervinegarsuchasOstlerrsquos100gcastersugar1staranisefrac14tspcorianderseedsfrac14tspblackpepper3saffronstrands1shallotveryfinelydiced2carrotsslicedintowafer-thinlongstripspreferablyonamandolinefrac12fennelbulbslicedwaferthinpreferablyonamandoline

FORTHEGOOSEBERRYANDMINTGRANITA

500ggooseberriestoppedandtailed100gcastersugar

10gmintleaves

ThisdishneedstobestartedatleastadayinadvanceRemovethebonesfromtheribcageofthemackerelfilletsusingapairofpliersortweezersNextlocatethebonesthatrundownthecentreofeachfilletWithanextremelysharpknifesliceatanangledownonesideofthebonesthendowntheothersideYouwillnowbeabletoremoveanddiscardthethinstripcontainingthebones

BlitzthecureingredientsinafoodprocessoruntilthecorianderseedsareasfineasthesaltandsugarSpreadthecuremixoutonaplatelargeenoughtoholdthemackerelfilletsPlacethemackerelonthecureskin-sideupcoverwithclingfilmandleaveinthefridgefor2hoursRemovefromthecurewashunderagentlyrunningtapandpatdrywithkitchenpaperPlaceinthefridge

ForthesousingliquorputalltheingredientsexceptthecarrotsandfennelintoasaucepanandbringtotheboilRemovefromtheheatandpouroverthecarrotskeepingthefennelseparateAllowtocooltoroomtemperaturethenchillCoverthemackerelintheliquorandleaveinthefridgeovernight

Tomakethegranitabring500mlwatertotheboilinasaucepanPutthegooseberriesinasteamerbasketandplaceoverthewaterCoverandsteamfor45minutesThesteambreaksdownthegooseberriesandtheirjuicedripsintothewaterThegooseberriesareleftwithlittleflavourafterwardssoarebestdiscarded

Removethepanfromtheheataddthesugartothegooseberry-flavouredwaterandstirtodissolveGentlyrollthemintleavesbetweenyourthumbandfingerthenputthemintheliquidandleavetoinfusefor20minutesRollingtheleavesbruisesthemslightlywithoutdamagingthemsothattheygiveoffmorearomaandflavourtheliquidmoreeffectivelyStraintheliquidthroughmuslinorafinesieveandleavetocoolthenchillPourintoaplasticboxandputinthefreezerLeavefor1houroruntilitrsquosstartingtosetaroundtheedgesthenremovefromthefreezerandrakestraightlinesfromtoptobottomwithaforkPlacebackinthefreezerfor30minutesandthenrakewithaforkagainRepeatuntilthegranitaiscompletelyfrozenintoicecrystalsItwillkeepinthefreezerforamonth

crystalsItwillkeepinthefreezerforamonth

WhenthemackerelhashaditsnightinthefridgeremoveitfromthesouseandpatdryCutthefilletsinto1ndash2cmstrips(thethintailsectionsmakeatastysnackwhileyouplateuptherestofthedish)ThesousingliquorwillbealittlecloudyafterthemackerelhasspentsometimeinitIfyouareusingthisrecipeforadinnerpartyandwanttogivetheextrawowfactorthendiscardtheliquidandmakeafreshbatchThiswillgivegreatclaritytothefinisheddish

ToservebunchsomefennelinthecentreofeachservingbowlandplacethemackerelarounditRollthecarrotsintoribbonsandarrangethemaroundthemackerelPourinenoughofthesousingliquidjusttocoverthebottomofeachbowlPlaceatablespoonofthegranitaontopofthefennelandfinishwithacoupleofstrandsofsaffronineachbowl

daggerMackerelhasbeenafavouritefishinBritainforcenturiesItformedthebasisoftheRomanliquamenalsoknownasgarumafermentedfishsauceusedincookingandwhichtheybroughtwiththemtotheBritishIslesRecordsshowthatasearlyas1353DanielRoughtheclerkofRomney

KentandaprominentfishmongersoldmackereltothelocalsBythe1660sitseemsthatmackerelhadbecomepopularfurtherinlandasitstartscroppingupinbreakfastdishesoftheperiodSuchwideravailabilitymighthavebeentheresultofanActofParliamentpassedin1669whichfinallydeclaredthatLondonrsquosfishmarketatBillingsgatecouldopensixdaysperweek

daggerContrarytocommonbeliefthegooseberryisnotanativeberryOriginallycultivatedincoolerareasofEuropeitgrowssowellinBritishsoilthatitquicklybecamenaturalisedRecordsfromtheroyalgardenatWestminstershowthatbusheswereplantedinthethirteenthcenturyBythenineteenthcenturygooseberrieswerecultivatedonalargecommercialscaleCompetitivegooseberry-growingclubswereestablishedallovertheUKandthequesttofindthebestandbiggestfruitwastakenextremelyseriouslyUnfortunatelyintheearly1900stheentiregooseberrycropwaswipedoutduetoamildewdiseasebroughtinfromtheUnitedStatesLuckilyforourBritishpalatestheplantwasreintroducedalthoughitneverregainedthepopularityithadenjoyedintheVictorianera

ChilledBeetrootSoupPar-celWalnutIceCreamandRoastedCobnutOil

DuringourfirstsummerattheWalledGardenwenoticedwithsomedegreeofsurprisethatwhenevertherewasevenaslightindicationofsunnyweathercustomerswouldignorethefreshlymadehotsouponthemenupreparedwithvegetablespickedfromthegardenthatsamemorningThischilledbeetrootsoupprovedtobeanacceptablealternativeTherecentsuccessofbeetrootinBritishcookingmustbedueatleastin

parttoitswonderfulcombinationofsweetnessandearthinessItsearthyaromacomesfromgeosminanorganiccompoundfoundinbeetsandthe

aromacomesfromgeosminanorganiccompoundfoundinbeetsandthesameionicaromayougetduringrainafteradryspellThisscentisdetectablebythehumannoseatverylowconcentrationsWalnutsareaperfectmatchfortheearthytasteofbeetroottheirbitternessbalancedbythesubtlesweetnessofthisgeosmingemMarkgrowsafascinatingparsleyandcelerycrosscalledpar-celItisso

pungentthatyouneedonlyasmallamountasanalternativetocelery

SERVES61kgbeetrootcutinto2cmdice500gonionscutinto2cmdice250gcarrotscutinto2cmdice1litrebeefstock(seehere)2tablespoonschoppedpar-cel(oruse250gceleryandahandfulofparsleystalks)

seasaltroastedcobnutoiltoserve(weuseoilfromHurstwoodFarminKentseeourlistofFriendsandSuppliersonhere)FORTHEWALNUTICECREAM

225gclottedcream75gwalnutsfinelychopped

TomakethewalnuticecreamsimplystirboththeingredientstogetherthenfreezeinaplasticboxBecauseofthehighfatcontentthecreamwillstillbesupplewhenfrozenandbeautifulscoopedswirlscanbemadebypullingaspoonoverthesurfacejustbeforeservingthesoup

Putthebeetrootonionsandcarrotsintoapanwiththebeefstockandpar-celthenaddenoughwatertocoverthevegetablesBringtotheboilcoverandsimmerfor35minutesoruntilthevegetablesaretenderbutnotfallingapartPourthecontentsintoacolandersetoverabowlandleaveuntilthoroughlydrainedTastethestockandseasonwithsalttotasteItwillbeadarkrichcolourandheavilyredonthespoonWatchyoursummerwhites

ThesoupistheliquidthatcomesfromdrainingthevegetablessoleavethistocoolandthenchillIfyouneedtochillthesoupquicklyplaceicecubesinafreezerbagsealitandfloatitintheliquidAlternativelymakethesouponthesamedayasthewalnuticecreamandchillitovernightThevegetables

thesamedayasthewalnuticecreamandchillitovernightThevegetablesthathavebeencookedinthestockcanbereservedandservedasamashonanotheroccasion(mashtherootsandonionsseasonwithsaltbutterandchoppedtarragonreheatgentlyandservewithleftoversmustardisgreattolivenituptoo)

Servethesoupchilledwithaspoonfulofthewalnuticecreamandasmatteringofrichroastedcobnutoilwhichwillshimmeronthesurfacealluringly

daggerWalnutsareoneofthemostpopularnutsinBritainhistoricalrecordsshowthatwalnuttreesweregrownintheearlymedievalperiodTheyareagluttonrsquosdelightSinceharvestswereuncertainfromoneyeartothenextitwasthoughtacceptabletoeatasmanywalnutsaspossiblewhentheharvestwasplentifulWalnutswerethoughttohelpdigestionsotheywereeatenwholeattheendofthemealOnecanimaginethatthisbeliefdespitebeingtotallyunfoundedwouldhaveencouragedpost-mealconversationwhichisprobablythereasonthetraditioncontinuedwellintothetwentiethcentury

Ewersquos-curd-stuffedCourgetteFlowerswithFennelSherbet

CourgetteflowershaveneverreallybeenpopularintheUKPaucirclahasfondmemoriesofeatingtheminquesadillasinMexicowhenshewasachildSheusedtobuythematastallonhergrandmotherrsquosstreetclosetothemarketwheretheywouldarriveeverymorningincopiousamountsaddingatouchofsunshinetoanalreadycolourfulstallShetalkedaboutthemsomuchthattheywereoneofthefirstdishesMatthewtriedwhenhetravelledtoMexicotomeetPaucirclarsquosfamilySincethenwehavewonderedwhethertheirlackofpopularityintheUKisdowntothegeneralviewthatcourgettesdonottasteofmuchatallandconsequentlythattheirflowersdonrsquoteitherTheygrowwellheresothereshouldcertainlynotbeashortageofflowersinthesummerItwouldbeanabsolutepleasureforusiftheBritishcouldadoptthecourgettefullyintotheircookingInthisdishtheflowersarebakedndashprimarilysothattheewersquoscurdmelts

becomingcreamierbutalsobecausetheytendtobealittlebitspikywhenrawNotonlydotheylookfantasticontheplatebutsurelyfewotherflowersepitomisesummersoeffectivelyWedareanyonenottothinkofsunshinewhenpresentedwithabright-yellowcourgetteflowerThefennelsherbetaddsatouchoffreshnesstobalancethemilkycobnuts

SERVES41yellowand1greencourgette8courgetteflowersstamensremoved160gfreshewersquoscurd40gfreshcobnutslightlycrushedcobnutorhazelnutoilfordrizzling

FORTHEWILDFENNELSHERBET

100gicingsugar2tspcitricacid1tspbicarbonateofsoda1tbspwildfennelseeds(orordinaryfennelseeds)

Tomakethesherbetputalltheingredientsinablenderandblitzuntilthe

Tomakethesherbetputalltheingredientsinablenderandblitzuntiltheseedsarefinelygroundthenpassthroughafinesieve(Itwillkeepinanairtightcontainerforuptoamonthandisgreatwithicecreamsandsprinkledoverotherdesserts)Heattheovento200degCGasMark6Topandtailthecourgettesthencutthemalongtheirlengthinwafer-thinslicesusingamandolineorvegetablepeelerStufftheflowerswiththeewersquoscurdTodothiswefillapipingbagwiththecurdandplacethetipofthenozzleintheflowerbeforefillingAlternativelyyoucouldjustgentlyopenuptheflowersandspooninthecurdPlacetheflowersonaroastingtrayandbakefor2ndash3minutesuntilthecheesehasmeltedandthetipsoftheleavesarebeginningtocrispalittleRemovefromtheovenandkeepwarm

Arrangethecourgetteribbonsdecorativelyon4servingplatesandplacethestuffedflowersamongstthemLightlyscatterwiththecobnutsaddadrizzleofoilandthendustwiththefennelsherbet

GlobeArtichokeswithHollandaiseSauceandSumac

TheinspirationforthisdishcomesfromPaucirclaItwasthemostrequesteddishinherMexicangrandmotherrsquosvastrepertoireandwithgoodreasonShedidnotalwayssayyestothisparticularrequestasitwastrulyalabourofloveIttooksolongtopreparethatshewouldwaitforaspecialoccasionwhensheknewmostofthefamilywouldbepresentOnlythenwouldshestartthelaborioustaskofcarefullyplacingasliceofpanelacheesebetweeneachartichokeleafTheclosershegottothecentreoftheartichoketheharderthisbecameShewouldthencoverthemwithasecretmixtureinvolvingbreadcrumbsandeggsbeforedeep-fryingTherewasatleastoneartichokeforeachmemberofthefamilyandsinceitwasnotthesmallestfamilyyoucanimaginehowlongthewholeprocesstookForPaucirclaitsymbolisescommunaleatingwithplentyofstoriesandconversationbeforeyoureachedtheartichokersquoshearteatenwithagenerousamountoffreshlysqueezedlimejuiceandwasheddownwithamezcal(forthosewhowereoldenough)GlobeartichokesaremembersofthethistlefamilyAlthoughtheyare

availableallyearroundtheyareattheirbestduringthesummerThedayMarkthegardenerhandedussomeglobeartichokesstraightfromthegardenweknewwewantedtoreplicatetheideaofcommunalartichokeeatingWecameupwithhollandaisesaucewithsumacfordippingtheleavesintoItrsquosalsoprettygoodwithananchovyandcregravemefraicircchedip(seehere)whichmakesasimpleralternativetothehollandaiseoryoucanservethembothAwordofwarningisneededherethisisnotadishforthefastidiouseater

UsingyourfingersisprettymucharequirementanditishighlylikelythatyouwillneedtolickthemattheendDonrsquotbotherwithserviettestheywillonlyhamperyourenjoymentPlacetheartichokeplatewiththebowlofhollandaiseinthecentreinthemiddleofthetableandpeelofftheouterleavesfromyourartichokeDipthemintothehollandaisesauceandsumacbeforeeatingthetenderflesharoundthebaseofeachleafPaucirclarsquosgrandmotherwouldnodoubtapprove

SERVES44largeglobeartichokesstalksremoved

HollandaiseSauce(seehere)andorAnchovyCregravemeFraicirccheDip(seehere)toservealittlesumacforsprinkling

UsingapairofscissorscutthetipofeachspikyleafofftheartichokesThesespikesarenotsuchfuntoeatPuttheartichokesinasteamerandsteamoveragentleheatfor25minutesoruntiltender

Meanwhilewhipupthehollandaisesauceortheanchovycregravemefraicircchedip(orboth)Putthemintobowlsandsprinklethehollandaisewithsumac

RemovetheartichokesfromthesteamerandserveonaplateHaveasparebowlatthesidetodiscardtheinediblepartsoftheleavesStartpeelingtheleavesawayfromtheartichokeThebaseofeachleafyieldsasmallfleshymorselDipthebaseintothesaucesandeatstraightofftheleafdiscardingtherestoftheleafEveryleafyoueatwillyieldmoreandmoreediblefleshuntilyougettotheheartoftheartichokendashundoubtedlythebestbitndashbuttakecaretoremovethehairylayeroflsquochokersquo

PeaGoatBaconandLovageBroth

Baconandpeashasbeenaclassiccombinationsincethe1600swhenaccordingtoAlanDavidsonrsquosOxfordCompaniontoFood(OxfordUniversityPress1999)theyweresoldasstreetfoodlsquohotgreypeaseandasuckofbaconrsquoThepeaswouldhavebeendriedbutwefavourfreshpeaswhicharegrownbyMarkthegardenerInsteadofordinarybaconweuseourownlsquogoatbaconrsquoorcuredgoatloinIthasrichcuminovertonesfromthesimplecureandispleasantlysaltyLovageandpeasworkwelltogetherThisisworkingfoodndashitlooksandtasteslikeadishthatshouldbeeaten

afteraharddayinthegardenThegoatbaconneedstobemadeseveraldaysbeforerequiredbutoncecureditwillkeepfortwoweeksandcanbeusedinthesamewayasordinarybaconYourbutchershouldbeabletoordergoatloinforyoubutifyoucanrsquotgetholdofitsubstituteporktenderloin

SERVES41kgunshelledfreshpeasrapeseedoil4smallredonionsor8springonionscutintoquarters1litrewhitechickenstock(seehere)abunchoflovageleavesasplashofcidervinegarifneededseasalt

FORTHEGOATBACON

2goatloinsweighing250ndash350geachsilvermembraneremoved20gfineseasalt10gdarkmuscovadosugar1tspfennelseeds2tspcorianderseeds1tbspcuminseedsfrac12tspblackpeppercorns

FirstmakethebaconTietheloinstogetherwithseverallengthsofbutcherrsquosstringatintervalsof5cmorsoPlacethesaltsugarandspicesinafoodprocessororspicegrinderandblitztoafinepowderLaytheloinsonalarge

pieceofclingfilmatleast4timesaswideastheloinsCoverwiththespicemixtureandwraptightlyintheclingfilmPlaceinalargeplasticcontainerandleaveinthefridgefor5ndash7daysturningonceadayDonotdrainoffanyliquidthatescapesduringthistime

RemovethebaconfromthefridgewashoffallthespicesunderacoldtapandpatdryonkitchenpaperHangthemeatinawarmwell-ventilatedareasuchasthekitchenoranairingcupboardfor12hoursoruntilitiscompletelydrytothetouchndashatemperatureof25degCisidealsoadjustthetimeyouhangthemeataccordinglyWhenthebaconisreadyitshouldhaveadistinctsweetgoatsmellandberichincumin

ShellthepeasensuringyouhavesomethingelsetonibbleordrinkalongsidendashotherwiseyoursquollbeluckytohaveanyleftbytheendHeatalittlerapeseedoilinasaucepanaddtheonionsandfryuntillightlycolouredUsingalargesharpknifecut15slicesfromthegoatbaconthethicknessofbaconrashersAddthemtothepanandfrytilltheytakeonsomeofthecaramelcolourfromtheonionsAddagoodsplashofthechickenstockstirringtodeglazethepanPourintheremainingstockthenaddthelovageleavesandthepeasBringtoasimmerandcookforacoupleofminutesuntilthepeasaretenderTastethebrothanddecidewhetheritrequiressaltandasplashofcidervinegarVinegarwillcutthroughthefattinessofadishandcalmanysaltinessAbigbowlofpeasforteaHappypeadaysforsure

ScallopsinPuffPastrywithVermouthandFennelCream

ThislookslikeaverysimpledishalmostasifithadjustbeenpluckedfromtheshorelineChoosethecurvedshellofthescalloptoservetheminratherthantheflatoneThepastrycoverleavesyourgueststhetaskofdiscoveringwhatyouhaveplacedbeneathSincescallopsneedverylittlecookingandtheshellsconductheatsowellalltheingredientsquicklysteamunderthepastryasitcrispsintheovenThedishcanbeassembledinadvancekeptchilledandthenfinishedin10minutes(addacoupleofminutestothecookingtimeiftheyrsquovebeenkeptinthefridge)ThesauceisbasedonasimplereductionReducingliquidbyboilingit

rapidlyforcesittoevaporatecausingittothickengraduallyThecombinationoffishstockvermouthandcreambeginsassweetandrichandendsupwithasavouryandsatiatingbitternessafterbeingreducedFennelisaningredientinsomevermouthsandhasatriedandtestedaffinitywiththebotanicalflavoursinourvermouth(seehere)Thescallopscanbeservedonfennelfrondsthosefeatheryleavesatthetopofthefennelbulb

SERVES6150mlfishstock(seehere)75mlsinglecream50mldryvermouth(forourhouseVermouthseehere)6diver-caughtscallopsincludingtheorangeroeplustheirshells1smallcarrot1smallonionfrac14smallbronzefennelbulb320gpuffpastry(forhomemadeseehere)1eggbeatenwithapinchofsalttoglazeseasaltandblackpepper

Putthefishstockinaheavy-bottomedpanplaceoverafairlyhighheatandletitboilawayvigorouslyuntilreducedbyhalfitsvolumeAddthecreamandvermouthandcontinuetoboiluntilthesaucehasthickenedandreducedbyhalfagainTasteandaddsaltifneededthenremovefromtheheatand

leavetocool

Sliceeachscallophorizontallyinto3iftheyarethickenoughtodosoorinhalfiftheyarealittlesmallerCutthecarrotintomatchstick-sizedpiecesandfinelydicetheonionCutthefennelbulbquarterintoveryfineslicesAddalayerofeachvegetabletoeachcurvedscallopshellandplacethescallopslicesontopPouracoupleoftablespoonsofthesauceovereachscallopandcracksomeblackpepperoverthem

Rolloutthepastryonalightlyflouredworktopto2ndash3mmthickCutitinto6squareslargeenoughtocoverthescallopshellsPressthepastryontotheedgeofeachshellworkingrounditwithyourthumbsothesharpshellcutsthroughtrimmingofftheexcessThiswillsealtheedgesatthesametimeCoverwithclingfilmandchilluntilneeded

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6Brushthepastrywiththebeateneggandplacetheshellsintheovenfor8minutesoruntilthepastryislightlycoloured

PickledPollackwithFlame-roastedPeppersCucumberPulBiberChilliandWaterMint

PollackmakesasuperbsustainablealternativetoitscloserelativescodandhaddockwhichhavebecomeoverfishedalmosttothepointofextinctioninsomepartsoftheworldItsflakytextureisverysimilartothatofthebetter-knownwhitefishyetithassufferedabadreputationinthepastandhasbeencriticisedforbeingtastelessEventheillustriousJaneGrigsoninherbookFishCookery(MichaelJosephLtd1973)relegatedittothequalityofaMondayfishratherthanaFridayoneWecouldnotdisagreemoreTheearthinessoftheroastedpeppersperfectlycomplementstheacidityinthepickledfishwiththecucumberandmintaddingatouchoffreshnessThedishisfinishedwithascatteringofpulbiberchilliAlsoknownasAleppopepperthisisafruitymedium-hotchilliwithcuminovertonesasaltytasteandanoilyfinishItmarrieswiththemintexceptionallywellScallopsmakeagreatalternativetopollackinthisrecipe

SERVES4650ndash750gpollackfillet4tbspcoarseseasalt2redpeppers1cucumberahandfulofwatermint(orgardenmint)100glandcressorwatercressjuiceof4limesmixedwithequalpartsofcidervinegarafewpulbiber(Aleppo)chilliflakes

ThefirstjobistocurethefishbysaltingitndashthisdrawssomeofthewaterfromitScatterthecoarsesaltoveraplasticorwoodentrayandplacethefishonitskin-sideupCoverwithclingfilmandplaceinthefridgefor1frac12hoursnomoreInthemeantimeflame-roastthepeppers(seehere)andslicethemintostripsSlicethecucumberintolongstripsbypullingavegetablepeelerdownitslengthandwashandpatdrythemintandcress

RemovethefishfilletfromthefridgerinseoffanyresidualsaltandpatdrywithkitchenpaperItwillhavefirmedupnicelymakingthenextstepeasier

withkitchenpaperItwillhavefirmedupnicelymakingthenextstepeasierwhileseasoningatthesametimeWithasharpknifecuttingawayfromyouatanangleslicethinstripsoffishfromtheskinandplacetheminthelimejuiceandvinegarmixtureTheacidwilleffectivelylsquocookrsquothefishbyloweringitspHlevelThisforcescoagulationinthesamewayheatdoesbutmoreslowlyFinelyslicedasitisthefishwillneedamaximumof20minutesforthistohappenYouwillseeitturnwhiteassoonasitlandsintheliquid

ArrangethewatercresscucumberslicesofpepperandmintontheplatesPlacethepollackslicesamongsttheleavesanddustwithafewpulbiberflakes

DorsetBlueVinnyandFlame-roastedPepperswithCharredLittleGem

ThissaladissimplesummerfoodanddeservestobecookedandassembledinallitspartsoutsideFlame-roastingisourfavouritewayofcookingpeppersThesmokeimpartsadepthofflavourthatactsasagreatcontrasttotheirinherentsweetnessWeliketocookthemonabarbecuewhenthefirehasdiedawayandthecoalsaresearinglyhotThepeppersarelaidinaspiralformationdirectlyonthecoalsandturnedoverinorderastheirskinsturntoslateblackLeavingthemonthebarbecuefortoolongwillmakepeelingthecharredskinverydifficultsoanattentiveeyeisneededWeoftencookauberginesinthesamewayonthebarbecueoragashob

OncetheskinshaveblackenedmakesurethatyoudonotloseanyofthepreciousjuicethatiscontainedwithinthefruitIthasaflavourthatmustbeexperiencedWelikecorianderseedsherefortheirgentlegrassyorange-likeflavour

aswellasalittlegroundcorianderWealsodropafewcorianderflowersintothesaladTheirflavourismilderthancorianderleavesandatfirstglancetheyresemblecowparsleyDorsetBlueVinnyisastapleinourkitchenApieceontheripersideisblendedwithcregravemefraicircchetomakeasauce

SERVES4ASAMAINCOURSE6ndash8ASASTARTER2Romeropeppers200ndash250gnewpotatoescutinto1cmpieces6ndash8LittleGemlettucesvegetableorrapeseedoilforbrushing300gmixedlettuceleavesTheEthicureanSaladDressing(seehere)6ndash8corianderflowerheadsgroundcorianderfordusting2tspcorianderseedslightlycrushed

FORTHEDORSETBLUEVINNYSAUCE

50gDorsetBlueVinnyroughlychopped

50gDorsetBlueVinnyroughlychopped150mlcregravemefraicirccheseasalt

BeginbyroastingthepepperseitheronabarbecueasdescribedaboveoronagashobasfollowsturnagasringonfullplacethepeppersdirectlyontheflameandleaveuntiltheskinbeginstoblisterandblackenUsingmetaltongsturnthepeppersandrepeatontheothersideItispossibletoovercookthepeppersbythismethodsocareisneededtoensurethatonlytheskinisincontactwiththeflame(IfyoudonothaveagashobthencutthepeppersverticallyinhalfandremovetheirseedsLightlyoiltheskinandplaceunderahotgrilluntiltheskinblistersandblackens)Assoonasthepeppersareblackenedalloverplaceinasmallbowlcoverwithclingfilmandleavefor20minutes

Meanwhilecookthepotatoesinboilingsaltedwaterforabout12minutesuntilaknifetippassesthroughthepotatowithlittleresistanceDrainandleavetocool

PuttheDorsetBlueVinnyandcregravemefraicirccheinablenderorfoodprocessorandblitzuntilsmoothSeasonwithsalttotasteIfthecheeseistoostrongforyourlikingsimplylengthenitwithalittlemorecregravemefraicircche

WithalightlydampenedclothorhandtowelrubthepepperstoremovetheblackenedskinSplittheminhalfandremovetheseedsTearthepeppersverticallyalongtheirnaturallsquograinrsquointostripsabout5ndash10mmthickandsetaside

PlaceagriddlepanoverahighheatLightlybrushtheoutsideofeachLittleGemlettucewithrapeseedorvegetableoilPutthemonthegriddlepanandleaveundisturbeduntiltherearecharredlinesunderneathTurnandrepeatonallsidesuntiltheleavesarecolouredandtenderAvoidovercookingthemwhichwouldresultintoodarkacolourandacrisptextureSetasideinawarmplace

PutthecharredLittleGemonservingplatesamongstthemixedleavesScatterthepotatoesaroundandlightlydresstheleaveswiththesaladdressingDotthepepperstripsthroughouttheleavesandadddropsoftheBlueVinnydressingSeparatethecorianderheadsintosmallerflowersand

usetogarnishthesaladDustwithgroundcorianderandafewcrushedcorianderseeds

JohnDorywithMorelMushroomsFlatBeansHaricotBeansandHamHockStock

MorelmushroomshaveanaturalaffinitywithfishandmakeaparticularlyfinecompaniontoJohnDoryJackcanrememberpreppingthisfishduringhisfirstjobasakitchenporterThespinesweresharpbutthecookedfishwasarevelationAlittlefishmongeringisrequiredherendashitrsquosnotatallcomplicatedifyou

wanttogiveitagoyourselfThefilletsonJohnDoryareconnectedonlylightlyandcanalmostbeprisedfreewiththumbsaloneoncethespineisremovedwithscissorsTheoutsideofthefishshowsadistinctarcedlinethatsweepsinagentlelsquosrsquoThisiswherethespinerunsandisakeyidentifierinunderstandingitssimpleyetbeautifulanatomyIfyouarenewtofilletingjusttakeyourtimeanduseyourfingerstofeelaroundthebonesasyougoAknifeshouldonlyreallybeneededtocoaxthefilletsfreeinsomeplacesBythetimeyouhaveextractedthefourfilletsyouwillwellandtrulyunderstandtheprocessJohnDoryisoneofthefirstfishwelettheyoungrsquounsprepareattherestaurantWeonlygivethemonewarningonanykindoffishdonrsquotrubyourhandupwardsfromtailtoheadastheyarealwaysspikythiswayTherehaveneverbeenanycomplicationsandallcomeawaybeamingathavingmasteredanewskillSomefishhavedelicateskinswhichmakeverygoodeatingJohnDory

skinisoneofourfavouritesThesecrettoensuringitiscrispanddeliciousistomakesureitisverydrybeforecookingRemovethefishfilletsfromthefridgeandplacethemflesh-sidedownonaboardRunaknifesidewaysovertheskinlikeasqueegeeonawindowandasurprisingamountofliquidwillbefreedPatthisawaywithkitchenpaperandthefishwillbereadytocookHamandharicotbeanisaclassicpairingPulsescanbecookedwitha

pigrsquostrotterwhichaddsglossandsheenfromthegelatineinthebonesInthisrecipeweusehamhockstocktodothesamejob

SERVES4300gharicotbeanssoakedin2changesofcoldwaterfor12ndash24hoursthendrained

5gdriedmorelmushroomscidervinegar

cidervinegarabout400mlhamhockbroth(seehere)abunchofflat-leafparsleyorlovage200gflatbeans(alsoknownasheldabeans)trimmedandcutintobite-sizedchunks

rapeseedoil2JohnDoryweighing500ndash750geachfilleted(askyourfishmongertodothisifyouprefer)

flakyseasalt

CoverthesoakedbeanswithfreshwaterandbringtotheboilReducetheheatandsimmerfor35minutesuntiljustcookedbutstillwithalittlebiteDrainandsetaside

Coverthemushroomswithhotwateraddasplashofcidervinegarandleavethemtosoftenfor20minutesMorelsaretypicallyfoundonsandysoilandhavemyriadcavitiesinwhichthiscangettrappedGentlymassagethesoftenedmushroomstohelpfreeanysandorgritwhichwillsinktothebottomofthewaterOncethemorelsarecleanpourthevaluableearthyliquidintoacupdiscardingthesandydregsSlicethemushrooms

PutthedrainedbeansinasaucepanthenaddthemushroomsoakingliquidandenoughhamhockbrothtocoverthemjustbarelyAddtheslicedmorelsacoupleofstalksfromtheparsleyorlovageandtheflatbeansandbringtoasimmerCookstirringoccasionallyuntilthestockhasreducedenoughtocoatthebeansRemovefromtheheatseasonandcoverwithalid

Placealargeheavy-basednon-stickfryingpanoveramediumheatandletitheatupAddenoughrapeseedoiltocreatealargepuddleItmightsmokelightlyasitheatsthisisagoodindicatorthatitisreadytocookinSprinkleflakysaltontheskinsideofthefishandlaythefilletsskin-sidedownintheoilIfyoucanfitonly2filletsinthepancookthemin2batchesastheskinwonrsquotcrispifthepaniscrowdedIfyouhavesomesmallramekinsplaceoneonthemiddleofeachfillettoholditflatResisttheurgetomovethefilletsinthepanAfter3ndash4minutesthefishshouldhaveturnedwhitearoundtheedgesandthroughtothetopexposedfleshTheextremeedgeswillalsobegintobrownalittleOncethebandofwhiteattheedgeofthefishhas

begintobrownalittleOncethebandofwhiteattheedgeofthefishhasworked1ndash2cminwardsthenyoucanliftthefishslightlywithafishsliceandpeerunderneaththeskinshouldbealightcaramelcolourTurnthefilletsoverandremovethepanfromtheheatTheresidualheatwillbemorethansufficienttocooktheothersidewithinaminuteortwo

Servethefishalongsidethecookedbeanswithchoppedflat-leafparsleyorlovage

daggerJohnDoryisbesteatenwhensummerdrawstoacloseasJunetoAugustisthebreedingseasonIthasalargeeye-likepatchonitsflankthatconfusesbothpredatorsandpreytheformerfearingalargerfishandthelattermistakingitforamouthApopularlegendisthatthemarkonaJohnDoryisthethumbprintofStPeterthekeeperofthegatesofheavenThoughcoveredinspinesandyieldingaprehistoric-lookingflatbodyJohnDoryisafearfullytastynativefish

MusselsinCiderwithTarragon

MusselsareoneofourfavouriteshellfishWearetrulyaddictedtothemandfeelyoucanneverhaveenoughItisperhapswithoutmuchobjectivitythereforethatwewouldclaimtheyareoneofthemostoutstandingfoodstobefoundintheBritishIslesWehaveintroducedaWestCountrytwisttothisclassicrecipewiththe

additionofamedium-drylocalcidercalledPerryrsquosDabinettbutanygoodmedium-drycidercanbesubstitutedRatherthanusingfishstockweoptforthedeeplyrichandmeatypressure-cookedchickenstockthatisanessentialpartofourkitchenroutine(seehere)ChickenandciderhaveagreataffinitywitheachotherandyouwillsoonseewhythecombinationworkssowellinthisdishThelsquobridgingrsquoflavouristhetarragonIfyoudonrsquothaveanyyoucansubstitutestaranise

SERVES2(OR4ASASTARTER)1ndash15kglivemusselsrapeseedoil3shallotsslicedintohalfmoons1garlicclovecrushedunderaknifeandthenfinelysliced250mlmedium-drycider250mlbrownchickenstock(seehere)100mldoublecream4sprigsoftarragonseasaltsourdoughbreadtoserve

ItisimportanttocleanthemusselsandcheckthattheyarealivebeforecookingRinsethemundercoldwaterandremovetheirlsquobeardsrsquobypullingthemawayInevitablyafewmusselswillbeslightlyopenTapthemquitehardseveraltimesontheworksurfaceIfafteraminuteorsothemusselclosesthenyouknowitisaliveAnymusselsthatdonotcloseshouldbediscarded

HeatasplashofrapeseedoilinalargepanaddtheshallotsandgarlicandfryoveramediumheatuntilsoftenedbutnotbrownedAddtheciderchicken

overamediumheatuntilsoftenedbutnotbrownedAddtheciderchickenstockandcreamandturntheheatuphighwiththelidonOncetheliquidhascometoarapidboilandthereisplentyofsteamaddthemusselstothepanStironcecoverthepanagainandcookfor2ndash3minutesuntilthemusselsopenAddthetarragonsprigsandstirthemusselstocheckthatthemajorityhaveopenedAnythatdonrsquotopenshouldbediscardedItisfareasiertoovercookmusselsthanitistoundercookthemsoresisttheurgetocontinueanylonger

Withaslottedspoondividethemusselsbetween2servingbowlsthentastethecookingliquidandaddsaltifneededitwillprobablyalreadybesaltyfromthemusselsLadletheliquoroverthemusselsandgetamongstthemprontoAnemptymusselshellmakesaperfectsetoftweezersforremovingtheremainingmusselsfromtheirshellsanddecentsourdoughbreadwillthirstilymopupthelastdropsoftheliquor

SteamedMegrimSolewithRockSamphireandSumac-braisedFennel

RocksamphirehascomplexcitrusnoteshintsofeucalyptusandadelicatelingeringbitternessthatpairswellwithfishWeforagerocksamphirefromthelocalcoastline

SERVES260gbutteratroomtemperatureplusanextraknob1tbspchoppedmixedflat-leafparsleythymeandmint2tbspsumac4tbspcidervinegar2fennelbulbsrapeseedoil2carrots1megrimsoleweighing750gndash1kg(or1witchor2dabs)200grocksamphireormarshsamphireaglassofwhitewineseasaltandblackpeppercrustybreadtoserve

Beatthe60gbutterwiththeparsleythymeandmintthenchillBringthesumacandcidervinegartoasimmerinasmallsaucepanthenstrainandreservetheliquid

LightlytrimthetopandbottomofthefennelbulbsCuteachoneverticallyintoquartersthecorewillholdeachpiecetogetherinsegmentsHeattheknobofbutterinapanwithasplashofrapeseedoilAddthefennelandcookoveramedium-highheatfor5ndash6minutesoneachsideuntilbrownedandlightlycaramelisedAddsomesaltandthesumacvinegarwhichshouldroughlycoverthebaseofthepanCoverandcookgentlyfor20ndash25minutesthefennelshouldstillofferalittleresistancetothetipofasharpknifeWhenitiscookedwiththefishlateritwillbecomeverytender

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6Slicethecarrotsasfinelyasyoucan

downtheirlengthIfyoudonrsquothaveamandolineay-shapedvegetablepeelerwillmakeperfectstripstoo

Placealengthofthickfoil2frac12timesthelengthofthefishonaworksurfacePutthecookedfenneltowardsoneendofthefoilandrestthefishonitScatterthesamphireandcarrotsontopofthefishandseasonwithsaltandpepperPulltheedgesofthefoiluparoundthefishandthenpourinthewineCoverthefishwiththeotherendofthefoilandfoldtheedgesintosealittightPlaceonabakingsheetintheovenandbakefor12ndash16minutesuntilthefleshcomesawayfromthespineeasilywhenaknifeisinsertedneartheboneItcouldalsobecookedonabarbecuewithalidastheglassofwinesteamsthefishprettyquicklyThetimingwillbesimilarbutwilldependontheheatofthebarbecue

DropthechilledherbedbutterontothefishpriortoservingThisdishrarelymakesitoutofthefoilatourplacesojustneedsawarmplatetocarryittothetableEatwithcrustybreadtomopupthelastofthejuiceswhichareimpossibletoresist

SALTANDVINEGARPICKLING

SaltandvinegarpreservationisagreatwayofstoringforagedorgardensummerfoodsWhenusedasgarnishesandingredientsinthewintertheywilladdmuchtotheplateduringaseasonwherelessgrows1CalculatingyieldandnumberofjarsWashalltheforagedorgardenvegetablesthoroughlyinacoupleofchangesofcoldwaterWeighthevegetablesandmakeanoteofthequantityPlaceanemptysterilisedjaronthescalesandsetthemtozero(orlsquotarersquo)PackthevegetablesintothejarpressingdownwellandnotedowntheweightDividethetotalweightofthevegetablesbytheweightofthevegetablesinthejar(Soifyouhave130ginthejarand1300gtotalvegetablesyouwillget1300130=10jars)2CalculatingquantitiesofvinegarandsaltPlaceapanonthescalesandsetthemtozero(orlsquotarersquo)Addenoughpicklingorcidervinegartothejartocoverthevegetablesby1cmdepthPouroffthevinegarintothesaucepananddecantthevegetablesintoaseparatebowlMultiplytheweightofvinegarbythenumberofjarsyouhavelinedupandfillthepanwiththisamountofvinegarYouthenneedtoaddtenpercentsalt(Sofor1100gvinegaryouneed110gsalt)3SterilisingUsejarsthathavelidsthatwillsealwelljarsthathaverubberseals(egKilnerjars)arebest(removethesealsbeforeplacingintheOven)Preheattheovento140degCGasMark1WashthejarsinhotsoapywateranddrainwellPlaceonabakingtrayintheovenTheyneedatleast20minutesbutcanstayintheovenuntilneededastheyshouldbehotwhenthecontentsareaddedtopreventtheglasscracking4CookingtheingredientsThismethodisidealforfineorfinelyslicedingredientssuchascourgettessamphireandelderberries

courgettessamphireandelderberriesBringthevinegartotheboilandaddyourchosenspicemix

LowerthevegetablesintothebubblingliquidTheboilingwilllikelystopMaintainthehighheatandwatchfortheliquidtoreturntoarapidboilScoopoutthevegetablesandaddthemtothehotsterilisedjarsContinueuntilallthejarsarefilledthenpourthehotvinegarandspicesintoeachjarcoveringby1cmdepthWithteatowelinhandclosethejarsfirmly(havingreplacedtherubbersealsifusing)andturnthejarsupsidedown

Pickledrocksamphire

PERLITREOFCIDERORPICKLINGVINEGAR

100gseasalt1tablespooncorianderseed1tbspblackpeppercorns8staranise16allspiceberries8freshbayleavesfreshrocksamphire(seehere)

Frythespices(exceptthebayleaves)inalargefryingpanoveramediumheatuntiltheystarttoreleasetheiraromasAddtotheboilingvinegarmixfollowedbythesamphireandfollowtheinstructionsinstep4above

WaterBuffaloFilletwithClearChickenStockTarragonandSalt-bakedBabyBeets

ThechickenstockforthisdishneedsfreezingandthendefrostingthroughalayerofmuslintoclarifyitItwillhavegoldenhuesandbeasbrilliantandclearasbrandywiththismethodItisasomewhatlavishtechniquegiventhereductioninvolumethatoccursbutforaspecialoccasionsuchasasteakwethinkitisworthitThechickenandtarragonpairingistrulyawell-testedoneandthetarragonmakesagreatbridgeforthedelicatebeef-likefilletofbuffaloFormoreoncookingsteaksseehere

SERVES41litrebrownchickenstock(seehere)1kgbabybeetrootswiththeirleafytopsstillattached100grocksaltabunchoftarragon4waterbuffalofilletsteaks25cmthick(seehere)rapeseedoilseasalt

Freezethestockthenturnitoutofitscontainerandwrapitin2layersofmuslinPlaceinasievesetoverabowlthenputinthefridgeThegelatineimpuritiesandfatwillstaysolidinthemuslinatfridgetemperaturewhilethestockwillrunclearbelowResisttheurgetosqueezethemuslinitwilldraindryeventuallyThistechniqueyieldsabouthalftheinitialfrozenweightofstockinfinishedclarifiedstock

Heattheovento180degCGasMark4WashthebabybeetsandscrubthemwellTheywillprobablybeprettycleanatthisyoungagebutbemindfulofsoilresidueSpreadthesaltonabakingtrayandplacethebeetsontopWrapthetrayinfoilsealingitwellandbakefor1houroruntilthebeetsaretenderThesaltwilldrawoutmoistureandseasonthebeetsperfectly

About15minutesbeforethebeetsarecookedheattheclarifiedchickenstockinapanthentasteandseasonwithsaltifrequiredNowisagoodtimetogetyoursteakpansmokinghot

togetyoursteakpansmokinghot

BrushthesteaksverylightlywithrapeseedoilSeasonthemwithsaltbutnotpepperasitwillburnPutthesteaksinthepreheatedpanandleaveoverahighheatturningthemwithalongpairoftongsevery15ndash20secondsIfyouarecooking4filletsthiswillrequirestandingatthestoveturningtheminrotationduringthefewminutesneededtocookthemPeriodicallypresseachsteaktogaugehowwellcookedtheyareandwhenyoufeelyouhavethemspotonremovetoawarmplateLeavethemtorestsomewherewarmfor10minutesnolessThiswillallowthemtorelaxandreabsorbsomeofthejuicethatcomesfromthemInthistimedividethechickenstockbetween4deepplatesfinishingwithfreshtarragonsprigsFillasidebowlwiththebeetswhicharetobeeatenunceremoniouslywithyourfingersLayasteakoneachplateJobdone

WATERBUFFALO

WebuyourwaterbuffalomeatfromLowerOakleyFarmnearYeovilinSomersetTonyandJaneCoupekeepaherdof250ofthesedocilebeastsalldescendedfromAsianwaterbuffaloThecalvesstaywiththeirmothersforfivetosixmonthsthenafterweaningtheyeatnothingbutgrassandinwintersilagefromthefarmTheyareslaughteredat22ndash30monthsandthemeatishungforaminimumof21daysThereisverylittlemarblinginthemeatasmostofthefatisontheoutsideoftheanimalandaroundtheribsWaterbuffalomeathashighlevelsofomega-3fattyacidsandironandisregardedasanall-roundhealthyalternativetobeef

COOKINGSTEAK

WhencookingsteakthereareafewrulestoobserveAlwaysbringthesteaktoroomtemperatureforanhourbeforeithitsthepanasthiswillensureitcooksevenlySaltistheonlyseasoningtobeaddedbutnotfarinadvanceofcookingotherwiseitwilldrawmoisturefromthesteakTheheavierandthickerthepanthebettertheheatwillbedistributedcast-ironpansareidealThetemperatureofthepanisthenextthingtoconsiderItneedstobeveryhotsoputitontheheatandleaveuntilitissohotyoucannotholdyourhandaninchabovethenear-glowingsurfaceTocheckwhetherasteakisdonetoyourlikingpressitwith

yourthumbandgaugethepressurerequiredtodosoRaresteakwillfeelassoftasthefleshofyourcheekoveryourmolarsmediumwillbemorelikethefleshatthetopofyourcheekonyoureyesocketwhichismarginallyfirmerShouldyougetaskedtocookasteaklsquowelldonersquoandyoucanrsquotconvinceyourguestthatlsquomediumrsquowillbeperfectandtenderwithnohintsofredbloodnormallyassociatedwithafour-day-agedcutthenhereishowpressyourforeheadndashprettyfirmcomparedtoyourcheekandagoodwaytoconfirmthatasteakisovercookedthroughoutPainfultoseethatinthekitchenweknow

BarbecuedHorseMackerelwithCobnutSalbitxadaSauce

SinceweprideourselvesonhavingadirectrelationshipwiththeprocessofgrowingwemustadmitthatwearealittlejealousoftheCatalanwintercelebrationforcalcotsCalcotsaresuperbsweetonionsthatareforcedtogrowtallandpalebygraduallybuildingsoiluparoundthemWeknowouronionsandthisoneisacorkerAttentivegardeningisrewardedwiththecalcotadafestivalinJanuarywhentenderstemsarewrappedinnewspaperandthrownontohotcoalstilltheyarecharredTheblackenedskinsarepeeledawayanddippedinsalbitxadaaroastedpeppersaucethatisacachetofculinarybrillianceItisatitsbestwhenmadewithfreshalmondswhicharedelicatelycrispandeversoslightlymilkyndashqualitiesthatournativefreshcobnutsandhazelsshareGiventheabundanceofthesenutsinAugustweneededarecipeforthembeforetheyweresnaffledbythesquirrelsSalbitxadasauceprovedperfectusingupglutsofpeppersandtomatoesandanystalebreadInSpainsherryvinegarisusedbutexcellentvintagecidervinegariswhatwehavehereandithasequalvalueinoureyesWedecidedtocomeupwithourowneventforthesummermonths

whenheritagetomatoesareattheirpeakfourtypesofcobnutaredroppingfromthetreesandthebabyleeksarenighonimpossibletopriseoutofthegardenerrsquoshandsunlessthewordlsquociderrsquoismentionedThisisagreatcelebrationofallthehardworkthathasgoneintothegardenYouwillneedatleasttwogoodbagsofcharcoalplussomeonewhousedtobeascoutwhowillknowwhenthecharcoalisjustrighttocookonOhandiceinyourciderDeadposhWehaveusedhorsemackerelherebutherringsardinesorpilchardsline-

caughtseabassseabreamandblackbreamgreyorredmulletandpollackareallidealforcookingwholeovercoalsandwilllovethesalbitxadapairing

PERPERSON

1corncob4ndash5babyleeks1horsemackerelweighing400ndash500gcleanedalittlerapeseedoilabunchofsummersavory(orthymeorlemonthyme)

abunchofsummersavory(orthymeorlemonthyme)seasalt

FORTHECOBNUTSALBITXADASAUCE(ENOUGHFOR8)1moritachilli(orchipotlechilli)vintagecidervinegar5garliccloves500gheritagetomatoes150gstalesourdoughbreadcutintocubes4Romanopeppersflame-roasted(seehere)1tspsalt1tspsmokedpaprika100gshelledcobnutsfinelychoppedabout4tbsprapeseedoil

FirstmakethesauceTorehydratethechilliputitinasmallcupofboilingwaterwithatablespoonofcidervinegarmixedinandleavefor10minutes

Heattheovento180degCGasMark4WrapthegarlicclovesinfoilandplacethemonabakingsheetalongsidethetomatoesRoastintheovenfor25minutesuntilbothgarlicandtomatoesareverysoftPutthecubesofbreadonabakingsheetandtoastintheovenfor4minutesoruntilgoldenalloverSetthebreadtomatoesandgarlicasidetocoolthenpeeltheroastedtomatoesandgarlicbysqueezingthemfreeoftheirskinsReservealltheliquidandplaceitalongwiththetomatoesandgarlicpulpinablenderwiththepeppersDrainandchopthechilliandaddthatalongwiththesaltandsmokedpaprikaSplashenoughcidervinegaroverthebreadcubestosoftenthemDonrsquotbeshywiththevinegarasitisintegraltothetasteofthefinisheddishAddthebreadandcobnutstotheblenderturnitonandthenaddtherapeseedoilinaslowstreamtillthemixtureisliquidenoughtoblendTasteandchecktheseasoningAlthoughthiscanbemadeinadvanceyouwillhavetotrytoresisteatingitallbeforethebarbecue

GetyourbarbecuegoodandhotThecorncobsneeda30-minutedunkingincoldwaterstillintheirhusksbeforecookingThiswillmoistentheouterlayersenoughtoprotectthemfromthedirectheatofthecoalswhilesimultaneouslyaddingalittlemoistureinternallytohelpthesteaming

simultaneouslyaddingalittlemoistureinternallytohelpthesteamingprocessPlacethecobsdirectlyonthecoalsstillintheirhusksandcookforroughly15minutesturningevery5minutesuntiltenderWrapeachpersonrsquosportionofleeksin2or3layersofdampenednewspaperthensetthemdirectlyonthewhite-hotcoalsTheyarecookedperfectlywhenthepaperisentirelyblackenedandalmostburnedawayThecharredoutersandsteamedmiddlesareeversomoreish

BrushthefishwithalittleoilseasonwithsaltandstuffthecavitywiththeherbsCookonthebarbecuegrillturningonce(alternativelywrapinfoilandplacedirectlyonthecoalsfor5minutesperside)Thefishonthegrillcanbeconsideredcookedwhentheskiniscrispedalloverandthefleshcomesawayfromthespineeasily

HORSEMACKEREL

WediscoveredhorsemackerelwhenonedayitwasallthatwasavailablefromtheboatthatsuppliesusItturnsoutthathorse

mackerelarebright-eyedandgreatservedhotTheseshinylsquoscadrsquocanbefoundnativelyinthesummernotfarfromCornwallandareagreatalternativetocommonmackerelEversoslightlylessoilythanmackerelandgoodforroastingovercoalswestuffthebellywiththepepperymarjoram-likeherbsummersavoury

MixedwithvinegarsummersavourycanhavethesameapplicationasmintsauceSufficetosaywemakealittleofthisto

drizzleoverthefinishedcharcoaledfish

CURING

Saltingfoodorlsquocuringrsquowasamethoddevelopedtopreservefoodbringingdownawholeanimalmeantmoremeatthanthehunter-gatherercouldeatbeforeitwentbadItisbelievedthatdryingmeatwasoneofthefirstexperimentswithpreservationevenpredatingsaltingPeoplewouldleavemeatinthehotsuntodryoutorbuildasmallfireandplacethemeatoveritAlongthewaysomebodyfoundthatsaltingmeatofferedachemicalmeansofachievingthesameresultSaltingwasthencombinedwithsmokingtoachievealongerperiodwhenmeatwassafefromspoilageThesedaystheneedforpreservationhasbeensurpassedby

peoplersquostasteforcuredmeatCuredmeatspossessauniquetextureandintenseflavourbaconisprobablythemostobviousexampleofthisCuringisasimilarconcepttobriningbuthasadifferent

outcomeBrininggenerallyspeakinguseslowpercentagesofsaltinaliquidsolutiontobreakdownfilamentswithinthemuscleresultinginthemuscletakingonandholdingliquidduringthecookingprocessCuringontheotherhandcanbedoneeitherinliquidusingamuchhigherpercentageofsaltorwithadrysaltorspicerubCuringmeatdrawsmoistureoutcausingthemeattoundergo

apermanenttransformationintextureandflavourtheproductbecomesmoreconcentratedachievingamoreintenseflavourAndwhilethemoistureisbeingdrawnoutofthemeatthemeatcantakeonexternalflavoursThisopensupaworldofpossibilityforthecooktobecreativeYoucanaddspicesandherbstothesaltthenblitzitinafoodprocessorThisiswhatwedowhenwedowhenwecureourroeloin(seehere)andthegoatlointomakeourlsquogoatbaconrsquo(seehere)OurgoatbaconisoftenpilferedbythechefwhorsquoscookingonthestoveNeedlesstosaywersquove

almostalwaysgotgoatloincuringinthefridgeinafruitlessbattleagainsttheconstantsnarfingofourfreshculinarycreationTherearemanyvariableswhenitcomestocuringandyou

canbeascreativeandexperimentalasyoulikeAnyrecipesforwhichweusecuringincludethecuremixandtimeHoweverdoexperimentwiththetimethatthemeatisinthecurethetypesofspicesandherbsusedasthesewillallresultindifferentoutcomesAdoptaquestioningattitudeandseekoutanswersforyourself

FennelandSumacGravadTrout

ThisisourversionofthetraditionalScandinaviandishgravadlaxwhichtranslatesaslsquoburiedsalmonrsquondashanindicationofthewayitusedtobepreparedByburyingfishinaholeinthegroundinlayersitwaspreservedinanairtightspaceandlefttofermentTheadditionofsaltcamelateronwhenitbecamemorereadilyavailableOncethefishwasdugoutitmusthavebeenpungenttosaytheleastbutthebeautyofthismethodwasthatitallowedpeopletoeatfishevenwhenthefreshsupplieswerelonggoneHumaningenuityledtotheadditionofherbstomakeitmorepalatableandthecuringtimewasshortenedThecureinjectssomepungentflavourstobalanceoutthesubtletyinherentinfishHeretheaniseednotesinthefennelpairwellwiththecitrustonesofsumac

SERVES4ndash61ndash12kgfreshrainbowtroutfilleted

FORTHECURE

40gfineseasalt70gcastersugar2tspfennelseeds2tspsumac1tspcorianderseeds

frac12tspblackpeppercorns

PlacealltheingredientsforthecureinablenderorfoodprocessorandblitzuntilthespicesarefinelygroundSetaside

CheckthatnopinbonesremaininthetroutfilletsCutsomealuminiumfoilroughly4timesthewidthofatroutfilletand1frac12timesthelengthUseroughlyaquarterofthecuremixtomakeabedinthecentreofthefoilthesamelengthandheightasatroutfilletPlaceonefilletskin-sidedownontopSpreadtwo-thirdsoftheremainingcureoverthefishthenlaythesecondfilletontopofthefirstflesh-to-fleshSpreadtheremainingcureontop

BringthebottomhalfofthefoilupandthetophalfofthefoiloverthetroutsothattheyareedgetoedgeFoldthebottomfoiloverthetoptocreatea1cmpleatKeepfoldingthispleatoveritselfuntilthefoilisflushwiththetroutRepeatthesameprocessontheleftandrightsidesofthefoil

Placethetroutonatrayandweightitdownwithawoodenboardoracoupleofgood-sizedplatesLeaveinthefridgefor6daysLiquidwillbereleasedfromthefishbutavoidthetemptationtodrainitoffThishighlysalineliquidwillcontinuetocurethetrout

After6daysremovethefishfromthefoilparcelandrinseitunderacoldtapPatthefishdrywithkitchenpaperandleaveuncoveredinthefridgeforacoupleofhoursuntilcompletelydryPlaceonaboardandfinelyslicethefleshofftheskinatanangleusingaverysharpknife

ThetroutcanbeservedwithPickledPollack(seehere)orSpeltSodaBread(seehere)andCobnutSalbitxadaSauce(seehere)

WhiteRaspberryLoganberryandEwersquosYoghurtTerrinewithSweetCicelyConfit

Thisdessertusessomelesser-knownberrieswhichgroweasilyinBritishsoilWhiteraspberriesarenotthoughttobenativetoBritainbutthebushesattheWalledGardenseemtothriveandweobtainplentyoffruitChildren

attheWalledGardenseemtothriveandweobtainplentyoffruitChildrenseemtolikethemfindingtheircolourorlackofitratherintriguingTheyareverysweetwithlittleornoacidityandarebestusedindisheswheretheirsubtleflavourisnotoverpoweredLoganberriesaresurprisinglydifficulttofindAnineteenth-century

hybridbetweenablackberryandaraspberrytheylooklikeelongatedraspberriesacquiringadeeppurplish-redcolourwhenripeTheyareonthetangysideandbenefitfromtheadditionofsugarwhenusedincookingYoucouldalsoservethisterrinewithtwosimplecompotesofloganberries

andraspberriesasshowninthephoto

SERVES8ndash10500gwhiteraspberries(orordinaryraspberriesifunavailable)500gloganberries20ggelatineleaves240gfructose(fruitsugar)150gewersquosyoghurt100gdoublecream50gcastersugar1vanillapodmintleaves(optional)togarnish

FORTHEMACERATEDLOGANBERRIES

100gloganberries150mlcidervinegar250gcastersugar

FORTHESWEETCICELYCONFIT(OPTIONAL)

100gcastersugar100mlwhitewine20gsweetcicelystalksfinelysliced

FirstpreparethemaceratedloganberriesPuttheberriesinabowlpouroverjustenoughcidervinegartocoverthenleaveinthefridgeovernightThefollowingdaydrainreservingthevinegarAddthecastersugartothevinegarandstirtodissolvePourtheliquidbackovertheberriesandchill

vinegarandstirtodissolvePourtheliquidbackovertheberriesandchilluntilneeded

Verylightlybrusha750mlterrineorloaftinwithoilthenlineitwithclingfilmFillitwithwaterthengentlymovetheclingfilmsotherearenobubblesremainingunderneathDiscardthewaterandcarefullydrythelinedterrine

Put250gwaterinasteamerandbringtotheboilPutthewhiteraspberriesinthesteamerbasketcoverandsteamoveralowheatfor45minutesDiscardtheraspberriesndashtheywillhavelostalltheirflavourndashandreservetheraspberry-flavouredliquidthatremainsinthepanYoushouldhavemorethantheoriginal250gbecauseoftheliquidfromtheraspberriesWeighout250gyouwonrsquotneedtheremainingliquid

Steamtheloganberriesinexactlythesamewayweighingout250goftheliquidattheend

Place7gofthegelatineinabowlofice-coldwaterandleaveforabout10minutesuntilsoftMeanwhileaddhalfthefructosetothewhiteraspberryliquidandtheotherhalftotheloganberryliquidHeatboththeliquidsseparatelystirringtodissolvethefructosePourtheloganberryliquidintoacontainerleavetocoolandthenrefrigerateuntilneeded

TakethegelatinefromthewatersqueezingouttheexcessAddthegelatinetothewarmwhiteraspberryliquidandstiruntilfullydissolvedPourthisintothelinedterrinetocreateyourfirstlayerLeaveinthefridgefor2ndash4hoursuntilset

Softenanother7gofthegelatineinice-coldwaterinthesamewayTransfertheloganberryliquidtoasaucepanandwarmthroughoveramediumheatAddthesqueezed-outgelatineandstiruntilfullydissolvedLeavetocoolforafewminutesthentaketheterrineoutofthefridgeandslowlypourtheloganberrylayeroverthesetwhiteraspberrylayerReturntothefridgeandleavetosetagain

Meanwhilesoftenthefinal6ggelatineinabowlofice-coldwaterPuttheyoghurtcreamandsugarintoasaucepanSlitthevanillapodopenlengthwaysandscrapeouttheseedsPuttheseedsandpodintothesaucepanandplaceonalow-mediumheatUsingthebackofaspoonbreakupany

andplaceonalow-mediumheatUsingthebackofaspoonbreakupanyclumpsofvanillaseedssotheyareevenlydistributedStirringregularlyheatuntilthesugarhasdissolvedandthemixtureishottothetouchndashnomoreAnythingabovethisandtheyoghurtislikelytosplitresultinginagrainymouthfeelAddthesqueezed-outgelatinetothewarmcreamandyoghurtmixtureandstiruntilfullydissolvedTaketheterrinefromthefridgeandpourtheyoghurtmixtureovertheloganberryjellyReturntothefridgeuntilset

Ifpreparingthesweetcicelyconfitputthesugarandwineinanovenproofpanwith100mlwaterandbringslowlytotheboilstirringtodissolvethesugarAddtheslicedsweetcicelystalksandplaceinanovenpreheatedto80degC(orthelowestpossiblegasovensetting)Cookfor3ndash4hoursoruntilthesweetcicelyisslightlywoodyDraindiscardingthesugarsyrup

Toserveturntheterrineoutontoaboardcarefullypeelofftheclingfilmandsliceitinto8ndash10portionsLaythemonservingplatesanddotaroundthemaceratedloganberriesndashandthesweetcicelyconfitifyouhavemadeitndashinadecorativefashionMintalsoworkswellasagarnish

FRUCTOSE

FructoseisatypeofsugarthatisfoundnaturallyinbothhoneyandfruitandisdifferenttosucrosethesugarthatweconsumeinteaandcakesonadailybasisSucroseisabondbetweenthecomponentsglucoseandfructoseandisadisaccharideFructoseisamonosaccharideandoneofthesimplestformsofcarbohydratesItisworthnotingthatfructoseisoneandahalftimessweeterthansucroseandisthereforeoftenusedinsweetenersduetothefactthatlessisrequiredBearthisinmindwhenusingfructoseasyouwillneedlesstoachievethesamesweetnessassucroseWhenitcomestofruitypreparationsfructoseisourlsquogo-torsquo

ingredientMatthewandIainswearbyitespeciallyaroundthistimeofyearwhenthefruitarrivesinglutsandinterestingcreationsneedtobeconjuredupandattentivelytestedOnlythenwilltheybeaddedtotheever-changingmenuOnthebasis

thenwilltheybeaddedtotheever-changingmenuOnthebasisthatusinglikewithlikeisalwayspreferablewefindthatusingfructosewithfruitachievesamuchgreaterimpactthancanbeachievedwithsucroseItenhancesthefruitsrsquoinherentflavoursandnoticeablybooststhelsquofruitinessrsquo

GELATINE

GelatineisagreatmeansforsettingliquidsandgivesthelsquoclassicjellyrsquomouthfeelthatweareallsofamiliarwithWell-executedjelliesshouldbedelicateandsoftfarfromrubberyorchewyThelatterdefectisusuallydowntoanexcessofgelatine

HowevertheageofajellywillalsolargelyaffectitsstructureandconsistencyndashdessertslsquostiffenuprsquotheoldertheyareGelatinehasatroublesomehabitofnetworkingandjoiningupwithothernetworksofgelatineThemorethishappensovertimethemorewatertheytrapandthestifferthejellybecomesWeutilisethisphenomenontosticktheseparatelayerstogethercreatingoneuniformterrineLeftfortoolongtheterrinewilleventuallylose

itspleasantmouthfeelItisworthattemptingtodevourtheterrinewithintwodaysndashaneasyfeatonceyouhavetastedit

daggerBerriesformanintegralpartofourfoodheritageandarethequintessentialfruitsoftheBritishsummerTheywereanimportantelementintheVictorianfamilyrsquosfruitbowltheprominentcookerywriterMrsBeetonstatedadamantlyinherBookofHouseholdManagementthatthereislsquonofruitsouniversallyinfavourrsquoTheBritishpopulationenjoyedasurprisingpeakofphysicalhealthduringthemid-Victorianera(fromaround1850to1880)whentherewasatendencytoeatmorefreshfruitvegetablesfishandmeat

ElderflowerSorbetwithFennelSherbetandWildStrawberries

EldergrowsveryquicklyandwillrapidlytakeupspaceneededbyotherhedgerowplantssuchashazelchestnutandbeechLuckilyforustheneighbouringfarmerhasrefrainedfromcuttingbacktheelderandthereareseveraltreesthatgrowinthehedgesoppositeMarkrsquospolytunnelshighuponabankawayfromthefieldbelowWecollectasmanyofthesedelicateperfumedflowerheadsinearlysummeraspossibleWemakeourownsherbetforthissorbetVirtuallyanyspicewithin

reasoncanbeaddedtoicingsugarcitricacidandbicarbonateofsodatocreatethischildhoodconfectioneryWeusefennelwithitsaniseflavoursweetsourandaromaticWildstrawberriesaddthefinishingtouchThesetinymorselsofsweet

muskyaciditypushtheirwayupthroughthegapsintheredbrickpathsinthegardenTheychoosetheshadeofthelowboxhedgesandshadowsoftheherbpatchTheycanbefoundgrowingonheathlandandgrassyvergesandinmanygardensItrsquoswellworthtryingtogetholdofsomeastheytasteinfinitelysuperiortothelargercultivatedvarieties

SERVES4ndash610largeelderflowerheads65mlelderflowercordial50gglucosepowder195gcastersugar

TOSERVE

4ndash6ice-creamcones20ndash30wildstrawberries(ifunavailableusesmallcultivatedstrawberriescutintocubes)

WildFennelSherbet(seehere)

RemoveallbutthesmalleststalksfromtheelderflowerheadsandputtheflowersinabowlPutalltheingredientsexcepttheelderflowersinasaucepanadd690mlwaterandbringtotheboilstirringtodissolvethesugarImmediatelyremovefromtheheatandaddtheelderflowersLeaveto

sugarImmediatelyremovefromtheheatandaddtheelderflowersLeavetoinfusefor15minutesthenstrainthroughafinesieveDiscardtheelderflowersandleavethesyruptocoolTransfertothefridgeandleaveforatleast2hoursbeforechurningThisallowstheproteinspresentinthemixturetohydratefullywhichimprovesthewhippingqualitiesgivingasmoothersorbet

Freezeinanice-creammachineaccordingtothemanufacturerrsquosinstructionsWhenthemixtureisalmostfrozenblitzwithastickblenderfor15ndash30secondsthenreturntothemachineandcontinuetochurnDecantintoanairtightcontainerandfreezeforatleast2hoursbeforeserving

Toservetransferthesorbettothefridgeforabout10minutestosoftenslightlythenscooponeortwoballsofsorbet(orasmanyasyoucanfit)intoeachice-creamconePressthestrawberriesintothesorbetandthendustlavishlywiththesherbet

PineappleWeedJelly

Pineappleweed(Matricariadiscoidea)canbefoundfromMaytoSeptemberandlooksjustlikechamomilebutwithoutthepetalsWhetherornotithasthesamecalmingeffectaschamomileissomethingtobeexploredndashperhapsthisisacalmingandrestorativejellyrecipeItgrowsonwastelandandinplentyofotherplacestooItisoftenresentedbygardenersasitwillcompetewithotherplantsforvaluablespaceandnutrientsandthetaprootswillgripintoanysurfacehowevertoughThisisallthemorereasontofindoutwhosegardenyoumaybeabletopicksomefromwearesuretheywillthankyouforitTheflavourisextraordinaryasitresemblespineapplealmostperfectlyBoththeflowersandleavesareedibleWehavegiventhemeasurementsforthewaterforthejellyingrams

ratherthanmillilitresThisisbecausealthoughmillilitresandgramsareequal(ie100mlweighs100g)inrecipeswhereprecisionisimportantyougetamoreaccurateresultifyouweightheliquidThisiseasytodowithelectronicscalesandinfactwenowweighliquidsasamatterofcourseandrarelyuseameasuringjug

SERVES4220gcastersugar40gpineappleweed13ggelatineleavesCherrySpoom(seehere)orRoastedWhiteChocolateSpoom(seehere)toservePutthesugarinapanwith450gwaterandbringtotheboilstirringtodissolvethesugarRemovefromtheheatandaddthepineappleweedCoverthepanandleavetoinfusefor20minutesStrainthroughmuslinorafinesieve

Soakthegelatineinice-coldwaterforabout10minutesuntilsoftenedRemovefromthewatersqueezingouttheexcessAddthegelatinetothepineappleweedwaterandstiruntilcompletelydissolvedIfthegelatinedoesnotdissolvepourthemixturebackinthepanandplaceoveralowheat

Pourtheliquidintoajellymould(apineapplemouldlooksgoodifyouhaveone)andrefrigerateovernightoruntilset

Servewiththecherryspoomorroastedwhitechocolatespoom

ElderflowerandLavenderMarshmallows

ThelongcountrylaneleadingtoBarleyWoodisgreenandwindingBymid-summerthetreesandhedgesarounditformadenseherbaceoustunnelinpartsAtvariousspotsalongthelanearesoftalmostfurry-lookingelderflowerbusheswaitingtobepickedItrsquosthesamewhenyoustandatthetopgatesoftheWalledGardenand

lookdownthelanethatrunsalongsidethemainorchardHereitisimpossiblenottofeelasenseofcalmandserenityinducedbythedelicatelypungentsmelloflavendergrowingalongtheleft-handwallLikeagroupofplayfulchildrenheadsbobbinginthesunshinethesoftpurpleflowersgreetyoueverymorningwiththeirtranquilscentThesetwoingredientsepitomisesummerattheWalledGardenTheyare

traditionallycelebratedatthesummersolsticeanancientPaganfestivalthatisintendedtomarkthestartofmoreplentifulsuppliesinthegardenItisafestivalofgrowthandlifewhereherbsgatheredthenightbeforethepointatwhichtheywerebelievedtobeattheirmostpowerfularethrownintoabigbonfiretowardoffevilspiritsensuringanotheryearoffertilityinthesurroundinglandSummersolsticeisthereforeanopportunityforustocelebratethegardenatitsmostprosperousandwhatbetterwaytoenjoyitthanbygatheringaroundabonfireandroastingsomemarshmallowsWesometimestoasttheseandsitthemalongsideourchocolatebrownies

(seehere)insteadofthecherryandelderflowersauceToastingmarshmallowsusuallyevokesnostalgicsmilesfromourcustomersTheyarefairlystraightforwardtomakeYouwillneedanelectricwhisk

preferablyafreestandingonefortheamountofwhiskingneededtoachievetherightconsistencybutotherthanthatjustsomepatienceandtheyrsquollbereadybeforeyouknowit

3tbspicingsugar3tbspcornflourrapeseedoilforbrushing40ggelatineleaves750ggranulatedorcastersugar3largeeggwhites

FORELDERFLOWERMARSHMALLOWS

5ndash8largeheadsofelderflowerstalksremoved

FORLAVENDERMARSHMALLOWS

10lavenderspearsinflower1smallredbeetrootfinelygrated(optionalbutrecommendedtomakethemarshmallowspink)

SifttheicingsugarandcornflourintoabowlVerylightlybrusha35cmtimes25cmbakingtraywithrapeseedoilthendustwiththeicingsugarandcornflourShakeanyexcessbackintothebowlandsetaside

Putthegelatineleavesinalargebowlofverycoldwaterandleaveforabout10minutesuntilsoftenedRemovethegelatinefromthewateracoupleofsheetsatatimeandsqueezeoutasmuchexcesswateraspossiblePutallthedrainedsheetsinabowlandpourover185mlhotbutnotboilingwaterStiruntilthegelatinehasfullydissolved

Ifyouaremakingelderflowermarshmallowsaddtheheadsofelderflowertotheliquidthatthegelatinehasbeendissolvedinandleavetoinfusefor10ndash15minutesStraintheliquidthroughafinesieveandcontinuewiththenextstageIfmakinglavendermarshmallowsaddthelavenderandbeetroottothedissolvedliquidandinfusefor10ndash15minutesthenstrain

Putthesugarinalargeheavy-basedpanadd375mlcoldwaterandplaceoveramedium-highheatStiruntilthesugarhasdissolvedPutasugarthermometerinthesyrupandcookthemixturewithoutstirringuntilitregisters122degCRemovefromtheheatandstirinthelavenderorelderflowermixture

PuttheeggwhitesinthebowlofafreestandingelectricmixerandwhiskuntiltheyformstiffpeaksTurnthemixerdowntoalowerspeedandpourinthesugarsyrupinaslowsteadytricklebeatingconstantlyLeavethemixertobeatatamedium-highspeeduntilthemallowmixcoolsandthickensThisusuallytakesabout30minutesitisreadywhenathickribbonisleftonthesurfacewhenthewhiskingattachmentisliftedout

UsingaspatulascoopallthemixintothedustedtrayBesuretoscrapethesidesofthebowlthoroughlysoasnottowasteanyofthisfluffydecadence

sidesofthebowlthoroughlysoasnottowasteanyofthisfluffydecadenceLevelthemixtureandallowtocooltoroomtemperatureCoverwithbakingparchmentandleaveovernighttosetDonotrefrigerate

RemovingthemarshmallowfromthetrayisarguablythehardestpartStartbypeelingthemallowawayfromoneofthenarrowendsofthetrayWhenyougetenoughoffthesidedustinsomeofthereservedcornflourandicingsugarmixthenkeepgentlypeelinganddustinguntilyouhaveagoodcoupleofinchesclearofthetrayAtthispointflipthetrayoverontoaboardandgentlyliftitoffGravityshouldintheorydotherestofthejobIfnotthencontinuepeelinganddustingandturningitontotheboarduntilitcomesloose

Havemorecornflouricingsugarmixreadyandcutthemarshmallowsinto25ndash5cmcubesRolleachmarshmallowinthedustingmixturethoroughlytopreventstickingTheywillkeepstoredinanairtightcontainerforuptoaweek

SpicedGingerBeer

GingerbeerhasbeenbrewedinBritainsincethe1700sThetasteforitspreadacrosstheworldwiththeBritishEmpirebecomingparticularlypopularinAfricaandtheCaribbeanMeanwhilethelsquoBristolglazersquowhichincreasedthestrengthofpotterywasdevelopedlocallyinthe1830sandappliedtoearthenwarecontainersItallowedthisveryBritishtippletobesentfurtherandfurtherafieldThemesmerisingcollectionofphotographsobservationsandfactscontainedinJohnThomsonrsquosVictorianLondonStreetLife(DoverPublicationsInc1994)estimatesthatin1877300000gallonsofgingerbeerweresoldinLondonQuiteoftenitwaspulledthroughthestreetsbyhorsesinacontraptionresemblinganoldpianoanddispensedwithbeerpumphandlesBy1935thereweremorethan3000producersintheUKbutonlyafewremainItreallyisthetasteofBritishsummerPleaseserveinajuginthegardenonatablecoveredwithalinentableclothWehavealsotriedthisrecipewithraspberriesanditwassuperbWeaddedahandfulofraspberrieswiththespicesattheheatingstageandstillputthegingerinmuslinforthefermentationpartItwasaluminousred

MAKESABOUT2LITRES250gcastersugar5ndash8cmpieceoffreshgingerdicedzestandjuiceof1lemon2cloves3juniperberriesfrac12cinnamonstick3blackpeppercorns1tbspGBP(seehere)

Youwillneeda225litrecontainerwithalidplusa25cmsquareofmuslinandapieceofstringfortyingitintoaDickWhittingtonesqueparcelItisimportanttosterilisealltheequipmentincludingthemuslinandstringYoucandothisbypouringboilingwaterovereverything

Putthesugarinapanwithathirdofthegingerplusthelemonzestspicesand250mlwaterBringthismixturetoalightsimmerstirringtodissolve

and250mlwaterBringthismixturetoalightsimmerstirringtodissolvethesugarthenleavetocool

Pour175litresofwaterandthejuiceofthelemonintoyoursterilised2litrecontainer(alargeliddedplasticboxisfine)thelemonwillneutralisethechlorineinthewaterwhichwouldotherwiseaffecttheyeastrsquosproductivityStraininthesugarandwatermixturetietherestofthegingerupinthemuslinwithapieceofstringanddropitinAddtheGBPthencoverandleaveatroomtemperaturefor5daysBesuretoopenthelidbrieflyeverydayinordertoletoutanycarbondioxidethathasbuiltupotherwiseitwillopenofitsownaccord

Strainthemixturethroughafinesieveintoasterilised2litreplasticbottleandputonthetopSavetheGBPandgiveitarinseitwillhavegrown(Ifyoustoreitinthefridgeinasmallsterilecontaineritwillkeepforupto2weeks)After2daysthegingerbeerwillbereadytodrinkalthoughifyoudesireafizzierbrewleaveitforlongerRefrigerationwillhaltanyfurtherfermentation

SummerElder

ThisinitiallysoundsasthoughitmightbeathoroughlysweetaffairbutfearnotThebotanicalsintheginrevelintheirmeetingwiththeblackpepperandraspberrytincturecreatinganalmostsavouryflavourThesorbetweuseisfromMendipMomentswhosepedigreeherdofHolsteincowsgrazesjustoverthehorizonontheSomersetlevelsButthisdrinkwouldworkverywellwithanypre-maderaspberrysorbet

1scoopofMendipMomentsraspberryandelderflowersorbetatroomtemperature

50mlgin(welikeChasegin)25mlelderflowercordialdashofAngosturabittersdashofblackpeppertincture(seeboxbelow)

dashofraspberrytincture(seeboxbelow)3blackpeppercornsfreshlygroundblackpepper

FirstfillatumblerwithicetochillitInamixingglasscombinethesorbetginelderflowercordialbittersandtincturesGiveitastirwithabarspoontobreakupthesorbetbeforeaddingahandfuloficeandplacethetinpartoftheshakerovertheglasstappingwiththepalmofyourhandtosecureAgoodhardshakewillallowtheicetobreakupthesorbetandmakeasmoothtextureddrinkDiscardtheicefromthetumblerandstraintheliquidthroughastrainerandsieveintotheglassFinishwithagenerousgrindofblackpepperandthethreepeppercornsontop

MAKINGTINCTURES

FillajamjaronethirdfullwithyourchoseningredientandcoverwithahighpercentageproofvodkatotwicethedepthoftheingredientsLeavetoinfusefor2weeksandthenstrainintoanothercleanjamjarYouwillbeleftwithanintenseessenceof

yourchoseningredient

RawRhubarbSmash

AsmashissonamedbecausethemintissmashedupduringshakingDuringthemid-nineteenthcenturythesmashbecameasymbolofintemperanceinAmericaandwasafavouritesummerdrinkComparedtoitsolderbrotherthejulepthisdrinkisinthewordsofthecocktailhistorianDavidWondrichlsquoaquickbracerratherthanaslowsipperrsquoBeforethedrinkisshakenwealsomuddletherhubarbWebuildthis

cocktailinajamjarandthenaddcrushediceRawrhubarbhasgoodacidityandweuseitinsteadofthecitrusfruitoftheoriginal

SERVES125mlrhubarbsyrup(seehere)7ndash8cmpieceofrhubarbfinelyslicedapinchofsugar6sprigsofmint50mlbourbonwhiskey

50mlbourbonwhiskeyfinelyslicedrhubarbdustedwithsugartogarnish

PlacethesyruprhubarbandsugarinajamjarandlsquomuddlersquoitbypressingwithapestletoreleasethejuicefromtherhubarbandmixitwiththesugarAddasprigofmintandmuddleagainmoregentlythistimeAddthebourbon2moresprigsofmintandafewicecubesScrewthelidonandshakefor10secondsPackincrushediceand2moremintsprigsuntiltheiceispiledjustabovetherimServeinthejamjargarnishedwithathinsliceofrawrhubarbdustedwithsugarplusagoodsprigofmint

DoubleSloeGinandTonic

WeuseametalVictoriancoffeepottostirchillandservethistippleAfter10goodswirlsclockwisetheoutsidegathersadivinefrostWepourthe

10goodswirlsclockwisetheoutsidegathersadivinefrostWepourthedrinkintoateacupanddeliveritwithapotoficecubesInVictoriantimesservingdrinksinthismannerwasawayofconsumingalcoholintheguiseofafternoonteaThiswasinordernottooffendthebeliefsofthelocalsinfar-flungregionsoftheoldBritishEmpireItisstillageniuswayofdisguisingthoseearly-afternoondrinks

SERVES16raspberries200mltonicwater(weliketheFeverTreebrand)25mlgin(Chaseginisourchoice)25mlsloegin

PuttheraspberriesinaglassreservingonetodropintheteacupAddadropoftonicwaterandlsquomuddlersquountilasmuchjuicehasbeenextractedfromtheraspberriesaspossibleStrainintoasmallteapotandaddtheginsloeginandtherestofthetonicwaterDropin3icecubesandstirwellPourintoacuptoserveanddropintheremainingraspberrytheicecanbeaddedwithtongslikesugarcubes

RecipeList

GoatBaconwithOxTongueNasturtiumsandClarifiedHamBroth

WildMushroomswithSourdoughToastandThymeSticheltonCregravemeFraicircche

WildMushroomandSpeltPressedTerrinewithSpinachandRainbowChard

SwedishKnaumlckebroumldwithCottageCheesePickledBeetrootCarawayBeetrootCrispsandTomThumbLettuce

RoastCrownPrinceSoupwithTandooriSpiceWalnutOilandCrispSageLeaves

Salt-bakedCeleriacPortobelloMushroomandAppleSoupDeep-friedAuberginewithRoseHipSyrup

PearNativeNapeHazelnutCardamomandEwersquosCheeseSaladPreservedDuckLegChorizoButterBeanandConfitTomato

PotStewwithYinYangBeansWoodPigeonBreastswithPersianSpicedBulgarWheat

CucumberAniseedandBlackCabbageChickenMole

VenisonCiderandQuinceStewwithHerbedButterDumplingsFishSoupwithSpicedHeritageTomatoesFennelSeedand

EnglishTruffleOilToastSlow-braisedGoatrsquosLegwithCiderShallotsLentilsandGlazed

CarrotsPheasantKievwithWinterTarragonandStrawberryMyrtle

RareRoastSirloinofBeefwithBordelaiseSauceBlackCabbageandTruffleCauliflower

AlmondPearCardamomandChocolateCakeSeaBuckthornSorbetwithAppleandVanillaPureacuteeToffeeApple

andCaramelLemonBalmBeetrootAppleandCobnutCrumblewithRoastedWhite

ChocolateSpoomSimplesyrupsforsorbetsandspooms

SpoomRoastedWhiteChocolateSpoom

CherrySpoomItalianMeringueLordrsquosLovageAppleFlip

TheOrchardatBarleyWoodSalsifyandOgleShieldGratin

VincentCastellanorsquosVenisonChorizo

THEVALEBELOWTHEgardengraduallyaltersatfirstarippleofmutedcolourthattransformsintoaleafseaofredsandbrownsflecksofcopperandorangeandafaintshimmerofsilverbirchThelarchesstandtallandgreenagainstthisbackdropofcolour

WewatchtheorchardscarefullyastheirfruitcropsintandemCheddarCrossandRibstonPippinleadthewaywhilejack-of-all-tradesMorganSweetfollowsTheciderbarnsmellsjustasitshouldwiththecurativearomasofthesweetspicedapplesTrugsbucketsandanycontainersavailablelinethetimberwallswindfallssetasideTheoakpressperfumedfromseasonsofworkiswoundupasframesandcheeseclothsarefilledwithscrattedapplesThereisarhythmasframeafterframeisstackedlevelledandsecuredbeforethecogsareheavedandtheappletoweriscompressedAtfirstthereisjustatricklethenthejuiceturnstoaflowthatquicklyfillsourcontainersThecolourisgoldenandtheflavoursweetacidiccaramelGlassesarefilledandclinkedsmilesexchangedvarietiesnotedElenaandPhilwilldebateanddiscussthenextblend

Earlyautumnrsquosblood-coloureddamsonsseeoffthelastoftheraspberriesMarkrsquostomatoesbecomeaspicedsoupalongwithfennelandaremetinthebowlbyturmeric-friedlinghorsemackerelandsquidSourdoughbreadistoastedanddrizzledwithEnglishtruffleoilwithflavoursofboskywoodlandandfour-starpetrolFoundbyacaninetrufflehunterinSomersettheseirregularblackobjectstransformasupperForagersdeliverboxesandbasketsoffungiwithtexturesrangingfrompowdertothosethatslipfromyourfingersSomedeliquescebytheeveningRoedeerfindtheirthickwintercoatmutedtoadarkershadeWeclaimabuckortwoandstewsomecutswithciderandquincetobeservedwithplumpbutterdumplingsVinceCastellanocollectstheshouldersandsoontheyhangasbundlesofredchorizoBracesofpheasantsarehungandacoupleofthesered-eyedfirebirdsescapeesfromanearbyshootpeckaroundthegardenThecockisaflashofcolourwhilehispartnerthehenismuch

thegardenThecockisaflashofcolourwhilehispartnerthehenismuchmoresubduedinhersombrebrownfeathers

WoodpigeonsareperchedonthepostssecuringtheraspberriesunwittinglyawaitingameetingwithPersianspicedbulgarwheatThevinehouseisfullofearly-seasonMuscatgrapesThe100-year-oldvinersquoscroponcefilledsilverbowlsinthediningroomofBarleyWoodhouseSimonWillswhogrewupatBarleyWoodtellsusofthepleasureofeatingthissweetfruitduringwartimerationingandofmorningsshootingrabbitswithhismotherrsquosgundogBoyandSpanielwereateamwhenhecrawledsowouldsheAsthehedgesbegintocrophipsandhawssloeginisdebatedintherestaurantandeachcustomerpromisesafinerrecipethanthelast

GoatBaconwithOxTongueNasturtiumsandClarifiedHamBroth

lsquoGoatbaconhellipwhatrsquosthatrsquowehearyouaskMatthewandIaintakethegoatloins(twomusclesthatrunparalleltothespine)anddrycurethemmuchinthesamewaythatordinarybaconismadeTheymixthesaltwithspicessotheresultingbaconisfragrantwithnotesofcuminandfennelthatsitperfectlywiththeflavourofthegoat(seetherecipeonhere)ThetextureisidenticaltotraditionalbaconyettheflavourispleasinglydifferentThisbaconworkswellalongsideoneofourfavouritepiecesofoffaltongueTongueusedtobeverypopularbuthassincefallenoutoffashionandisrarelyseenonrestaurantmenusWethinkthisisashameItischeapeasytocookveryversatileandoneofthemostoverlookedmusclesSeehereforOx

TonguewithCauliflowerGilliflowerandHazelnutsandseehereforcookingtongue

SERVES4

800mlhamhockbroth(seehere)alittlevintagecidervinegarsuchasOstlerrsquosrapeseedoil12slicesofGoatBacon(seehere)cut3ndash5mmthick4eggspoached(seehere)12ndash16small-mediumnasturtiumleaveswashedanddried(ifunavailableusebabyrainbowchardleaves)

4nasturtiumflowersgentlywashedfineseasaltflakyseasaltblackpepper

FORTHETONGUE

1oxtonguebrinedandcooked(seehere)1egglightlybeaten50gdriedbreadcrumbs(seeheretoachievethebestbreadcrumbs)

Freezethebrothin1ndash2tubsovernightthenadayorsobeforeyouplantomakethisdishturnoutthefrozenblocksandwrapthemin2layersofmuslinPlacetheminasievesetoverabowllargeenoughtoholdthethawedbroththenputtheminthefridgeThegelatineimpuritiesandfatwillstaysolidinthemuslinatfridgetemperaturewhilethebrothwillrunclearbelowResisttheurgetosqueezethemuslinitwilldraindryeventuallyThistechniqueyieldsabouthalftheinitialfrozenweightofbrothinfinishedclarifiedbroth

Slicethecookedtongueinto4portionsabout5mmndash1cmthickLightlybrushtheslicesonbothsideswithbeateneggthendiptheminthedriedbreadcrumbstogiveanevencoveringSetaside

PuttheclarifiedhambrothinasaucepanandplaceoveralowheatBringtoasimmerthentasteIfitistooconcentratedaddcoldwateratablespoonatatimeuntilyougetthedesireddilutionSeasonwithapinchoffinesaltand

atimeuntilyougetthedesireddilutionSeasonwithapinchoffinesaltandasmallsplashofcidervinegarWhenyouarehappywiththeseasoningsetthebrothasideinawarmplace

PlaceafryingpanoveramediumheatandwhenitishotaddasplashofrapeseedoilTheoilshouldbegintosmokelightlyifthepanishotenoughAddthetonguefollowedbythebaconandfryfor1ndash2minutespersideuntillightlygoldenRemovefromthepanandplaceonalayerofkitchenpaper

ToserveplaceapoachedeggineachbowlandthenaddthetongueandthebaconSlowlypourinthebrothGarnishwiththenasturtiumleavesandflowersthenaddflakysaltandcrackedpeppertotheeggs

WildMushroomswithSourdoughToastandThymeSticheltonCregravemeFraicircche

ThisissupperforanautumnaldayThesumofallofitspartsandacollectionofflavoursthathavebeenenjoyedtogetherforcenturiesAutumnmeansthatitistimeformushroomsAnumberofforagersdropinwithboxesofthemthroughouttheseasonandwealsotrytogetoutasmuchaswecanndashespeciallyintothewoodsandhillsframedinthewindowsofourglasshousePleasetrytogetholdofasourdoughloafforthetoastWepickoursup

fromMarkrsquosBreadinBedminsterTheyhavetheirownlevainorstarterthattheyusetomaketheirBristolsourdoughThelacticacidinsourdoughproducedbythelactobacillibacteriagivesthisbreaditsuniquetastewhichworkssowellinthissimplemealOurbusinesseshavegrownintandemandMarkNewmanandhisfellowbakershavesimilarvaluestooursForonetheymakealltheirdeliveriesontheirlsquoBreadmobilersquoaheavyironbicyclewithabigboxonthebackThewarmwoodyaromaofthymeisbothbitterandsweetItwasalways

destinedtobepairedwithanassortmentofwildmushroomsJekkaMcVicarourqueenofherbspointsoutthatthymeaidsdigestionandwillhelptobreakdownfatinfoodsndashanothergoodreasontobeliberalwhenpairingitwithcheeseWechoseSticheltonforthisrecipeIthastoastandcaramelflavourswithanunderlyingbutterinesswhileitsblueveinsprovidepiquancyThebluesoftensthecheesealteringitstextureandflavourchangingthecolourfromwhitetosoftcreamThewholetrucklesareathingofbeautyacombinationofwhitecrustthroughtoabrightrustthatisalmostpink

SERVES4

2tbsprapeseedoil300gmixedwildmushroomssuchasslipperyjackpennybunrussulahorsemushroomsheeprsquosfootandpuffballscleanedandslicedinto1cmstrips

leavesfrom4sprigsofthyme25gunsaltedbutter8verythinslicesofsourdoughbreadfineseasalt

fineseasaltflakyseasalt

FORTHETHYMESTICHELTONCREgraveMEFRAIcircCHE

25gSticheltoncheeseroughlychopped75mlcregravemefraicirccheleavesfrom5sprigsofthyme

ForthethymeSticheltoncregravemefraicirccheputalltheingredientsinablenderorfoodprocessorandpulsetoasemi-coarseconsistencySeasonwithflakysalttotasteandsetaside

PlacealargefryingpanoverahighheatandleaveuntilitisveryhotAddtherapeseedoilitshouldbegintosmokeImmediatelyaddthemushroomsandthymeleavesplusadustingoffinesaltandtosstocoatthemevenlywiththeoilLeaveundisturbedforaminuteorsountilthemushroomscoloureversoslightlythentossandcolourontheothersideRemovefromtheheatandaddthebuttertothepanTossuntilithasmeltedandthemushroomsareevenlycoatedthenchecktheseasoning

WhilethemushroomsarecookingputthesourdoughbreadunderahotgrillandtoastturningeveryminuteuntilbothsidesaregoldenbrownThinslicesofbreadwillcurlunderthegrillandtheregularturningpreventsthishappening

RemovethesourdoughfromthegrillandaddacoupleofslicestoeachplateCoverwiththemushroomsseasonwithflakyseasaltandaddaheapedtablespoonoftheSticheltoncregravemefraicircche

daggerFromtheoldEnglishlsquoStichlrsquo(meaninglsquostylersquo)andTun(lsquovillagersquoorlsquohamletrsquo)SticheltonistheresultofacollaborationbetweencheesemakerJoeScheiderandcheesemongerRandolphHodgsonofNealrsquosYardDairyontheWelbeckEstateinNottinghamshireThisbluecheeseismadeusingunpasteurisedorganiccowrsquosmilkandtraditionalanimalrennetThedairyislocatedonthefarmandthecowsgrazejustyardsawayJoeandRandopharefocusedonpromotingarediscoveryinBritainoftherawmilktraditionTheywantedtonametheircheeseStiltonbutwerenotallowedtoundertheProtectedDesignatedOrigin(PDO)schemewhich

doesnotallowanunpasteurisedcheesetobeaddedtoitsranksWethinkSticheltonisanevenbetternameitwasanearlyformofthewordlsquoStiltonrsquorecordedinthetwelfthcenturyWereallyappreciatetheirdesiretomakethebestpossibleproductusingthefinestingredientswithintegrityandtraditionBravo

WILDMUSHROOMS

WearefascinatedbythesefruitingbodiesthatappearinamatterofhoursndashmyceliumnetworksPleaseuseamushroomguidethatisfullyillustratedandofferscomprehensiveinstructionsonidentifyingwhetheramushroomispossiblypoisonousRogerPhillipsrsquoMushrooms(Macmillan2006)isveryuseful

AfewtimeswehavebeenluckyenoughtocookthisrecipewithPennybunrussulahorsemushroomsslipperyjackspuffballsandsheeprsquosfootmushroomsHoweversomeofthesearedifficulttofindandeasilyconfusedwithnon-ediblevarietiesAgoodplacetostartiswithsomecommonvarietiesthatarerelativelyeasytoidentifyOnceyouhavebuiltupagoodknowledgeofthesehaveatentativelookfurtherafield

MushroomslovedampweatherfollowedbysunshinesotrytopickonadrydayBrushoffanydebriswithasmallmushroombrushndashatoothbrushworksatreatbutmakesureyouuseitexclusivelyforthatactivityCheckformaggotsandparasitesbeforecookingThesearesomeofourfavouritevarieties

ChanterellendashCantharelluscibariusTheyhaveasuperbflavourTheyareassociatedwithpinebeechandbirchandsmellofapricotsTheycanbefoundonmossybanksanddampwoodsbetweensummerandlateautumn

ChickenofthewoodsndashLaetiporussulphureusAlongwiththebeefsteakmushroomthisistheonlyotherbracketfunguswortheatingItcanpotentiallyyielduptoakilooffleshandcanbefoundgrowingonoldtreessuchasoakandyewcherrysweetchestnutandwilllowbetweenAprilandautumnTheyellowerthebetter

GiantpuffballndashCalvatiagiganteaThesemustbeacleanmilkywhiteandpredominatelyunblemishedontheiroutsideandwithinTheycanbefoundingrassyfieldsgardenshedgerowsandonwoodedgesbetweenlatesummerandautumn

JewrsquosearndashAuriculariaauricula-judaeThesehaveacolourthatwillbeanywherebetweenapalereddishbrownthroughtodarkThisgelatinous-texturedmushroomcanonlybefoundondeadordyingwoodusuallyelderFinditatanytimeoftheyear

FieldmushroomndashAgaricuscampestrisThisoneresemblesthemushroomthatmostofuswillhavehadfromtheshopsItiseasytofindandgrowsonpastureandgrasslandbetweenlatesummerandautumnBewaryoftheyellowstainerwhichcanbeconfusedwiththefieldmushroomitscaphasyellowstreaksandsmellsofcarbolicacidwhencut

MorelndashMorchellaesculentaAjoytodiscoverandeatItresemblesanirregularhoneycombCanbefoundonopenscrubwoodlandchalkysoilashelmorappleduringlateSpringoftenaroundStGeorgesrsquosday

OystermushroomndashPleurotusostreatusThesearecolouredsilver-greytoafawnybeigeFindthemontrunksorbranchesofdeadordyingdeciduoustreessuchasbeechallyeararound

ParasolandshaggyparasolndashLepiotaproceraandLepiotarhacodesTheselooklikeanumbrellawithanippleonthetopThestemandcaparescalyandtherewillbearingonthestemwherethecapwasattachedFindtheminopenwoodsandpasturesbetweensummerandautumn

PennybunndashBoletusedulisItrsquosanabsolutewinifyoudiscoverthisoneThismushroomhasnogillsbuttubeslikeaspongeinsteadFinditalongedgesof

woodsandingrassyclearingsBewareofDevilrsquosBoletendashBoletussatanaswhichhasawhitegreycapwithorangesporesandaflushofredonthestemasitwillcauseanupsetstomach

StGeorgersquosmushroomndashCalocybegambosaAfavouriteeatenrawatTheEthicurean(seehere)itcanbefoundongrassyclearingsroadsidesandontheedgesofwoodsAgoodonetoidentifysinceitisspecifictoearlyMayoftenappearingaweekafterthe23rdApril

WildMushroomandSpeltPressedTerrinewithSpinachandRainbowChard

TheridgeoppositeTheEthicureaniscalledBlackDownThehighesthillin

TheridgeoppositeTheEthicureaniscalledBlackDownThehighesthillintheMendipsitiscoveredinamixtureofheatherandbrackenInitsshadowsarepatchesofdeciduouswoodlandwherewehavefoundwoodblewitmushroomswiththeexpertguidanceofourfriendandforagerAdrianBootsWoodblewitsgrowinleaflitterandrangeincolourfromlilactoarichpurple-pinkwithanintenselyperfumedaromaTheyhavebeensoldinEnglishmarketssincethethirteenthcenturyWeloveusingtheminthisterrinebutitisimportanttohavethemexpertlyidentifiedassomeharmfulvarietiescanbemistakenforthemAlwayscookthemthoroughlyastheyshouldnotbeeatenrawWildmushroomsvarydramaticallyinflavourdependingonthevariety

AnygoodediblewildmushroomsyoucangetyourhandsonwillworkperfectlywellhereIfyouareinterestinginpickingyourownbookyourselfontoagoodforagingcoursendashtheyareruninmostpartsofthecountryOtherwiseboughtbuttonmushroomsorbrownmushroomscanbeusedinthisrecipeandyouwillstillhaveadelectableterrineWewraptheterrineinamixtureofspinachandchardforaspectacular

appearanceandlayeritwiththecolourfulstalksofrainbowchardItsearthinessiscompletelyathomewiththemushroomsandspeltPearledspelthasafirmtextureandgentlenuttyflavourAlthoughitisatypeofwheatsomepeoplewithwheatintolerancesfinditeasiertodigestIthasbeeneateninBritainforthousandsofyearsandwasfavouredbytheRomansOurscomesfromSharphamParkclosetoGlastonburyinSomersetTheyareagreatoutfitandtrueproponentsofamoresustainablewayoffarming

SERVES6ndash8

300gpearledspeltasprigofrosemary2sprigsofthyme400mlvegetablestock(seehere)200gmixedspinachandrainbowchardpreferablywithlargeleaves50gsaltedbutter300gwildmushroomssuchasbluefoothedgehogfungussheeprsquosfootpennybunrussulaorslipperyjacks(orbuttonorbrownmushrooms)cutintoslices1cmthick

3mediumeggyolks1frac12tspDijonmustard

1frac12tspDijonmustard1frac12tspvintagecidervinegarsuchasOstlerrsquosrapeseedoilforbrushingfineseasalt

Putthespeltintoasaucepanwiththerosemaryandthymeaddthevegetablestockand550mlwaterandbringtotheboilCoverthepanreducetheheatandcookfor1ndash1frac12hoursuntilthespeltistenderbutstillretainsalittlebiteAlltheliquidshouldbeabsorbed

Meanwhileputalargepanofwaterontoboiladding3tablespoonsofsaltFillapanorbowlwithcoldwaterandiceandsetasideSeparatethestalksfromtheleavesofthespinachandchardkeepingtheleaveswholeChopthestalksinto3cmpiecesAddtheleavestotheboilingwaterandblanchfor30ndash45secondsthenremovewithaslottedspoonandtransferstraighttotheicebathThiswillhelpretainthevibrantcolourStirtheleavestochillthemquicklyOncetheyarethoroughlycoldremovethemacoupleatatimeandsqueezeasmuchmoisturefromthemaspossibleNextblanchthestalksintherapidlyboilingwaterfor1ndash1frac12minutesTransferthemtotheicebathandstirtochillrapidlythendrainandpatdrywithateatowelorkitchenpaperSeparatethelargespinachandchardleavesfromthesmallonesthenplacealltheleavesandstalksinthefridgeuntilrequired

Meltthebutterinasaucepanaddthemushroomsandapinchofsaltandcookoveramediumheatfor5ndash10minutesuntilthemushroomshavesoftenedSetasideretaininganyliquid

OncethespeltisdonepickouttheherbsanddiscardPutthespeltandmushroomsintoablenderorfoodprocessoraddtheeggyolksmustardvinegarandsomesaltandpulseuntilthoroughlymixedChecktheseasoningandaddmoresaltifrequiredContinuetopulseuntilthemixturehasafairlycoarsetextureWholegrainsofspeltmaystillbepresentbutthemajoritywillhavebeenbrokendownintoapasteChecktheseasoningoncemore

Lightlybrushan800gterrineorloaftinwithrapeseedoilandlineitwithalargepieceofclingfilmGentlycoaxtheclingfilmintothecornersoftheterrinemakingsurenottotearitthenfilltheterrinewithwaterAtthispointyouwillseeanyairbubblesbeneaththeclingfilmManipulatethe

pointyouwillseeanyairbubblesbeneaththeclingfilmManipulatetheclingfilmtoremovethemthenpouroutthewaterandcarefullydrytheinsideHavethelargerspinachandchardleavesatthereadyDrapethemdownonesideoftheterrinemakingsuretherearenogapssothetipofeachleafreachesthecentreofthebaseofthedishAnyexcessleafshouldoverhangtheedgeoftheterrineRepeatontheothersideandtheendsIfanyterrineisvisiblethroughtheleavesthenpatchtheseareasusingsmallerleavesuntilitiscompletelycovered

Decanthalfthespeltandmushroommixtureintotheterrineandpressdownuntilitiscompletelylevelandfillingall4cornersLayerthespinachandchardstalkslengthwaysendtoendontopofthespeltmixsothattheycompletelycoveritAddasecondlayerofstalksofdifferentcoloursifyouwishCoverthestalkswiththeremainingspeltmixsoitreachesthetopoftheterrineLayersomesmallerspinachorchardleavesoveritthenfoldovertheoverhangingleavessothatthespeltmixiscompletelywrappedinthespinachandchardleaves

Placeinthefridgeandleaveforatleast2hoursTurntheterrineoutpeelofftheclingfilmandthencutintoslicesandputthemonservingplatesCoverwithclingfilmandleavetocometoroomtemperaturefor30minutesbeforeservingItrsquosgreatwithbreadchutneyandafewsaladleaves

daggerSpinachwasonlyintroducedintoEnglandaroundthe1500spriorreferencestothisleafwouldhavementionedplantssuchaschicoryoracheandGoodKingHenry(Chenopodiumbonus-henricus)WehaveusedthelatteralotinourkitchenItcanbefoundalongroadsidesandoncultivatedlandWithtriangularorspear-shapedleavesitgrowsyear-roundandmakesagreatsubstituteforspinach

SwedishKnaumlckebroumldwithCottageCheesePickledBeetrootCarawayBeetrootCrispsandTomThumbLettuce

AutumnsignalsthestartofthegameseasonanditiseasytoeatnothingbutmeatatthistimeofwonderfulglutsThissaladisourwayofredressingthebalanceandofferingafreshstartertowhatmightbeameatyautumnalfeastWeuseLongleyrsquoscottagecheesewhichwefindfarsuperiortoallthe

otherswehavetriedItscleanlacticfreshnessworksparticularlywellwiththesweetnessofthebeetrootThespicesareheatedinadrypantohelpreleasetheiressentialoilsThis

makesthemmorepungentandwithgreaterdepthasifsomethingwithinthemhadcometolifeAsthearomafillstheairitisagreattimetothinkaboutwhatcharacteraspicehasSomewillshowmentholtonesotherswillberesinouscitrusgrassybitterWhenyoubreakdownthetasteintoseparatecomponentsitiseasytodecidewheretheymightbeusefulinrelationtootheringredientsCuminhasanearthyflavoursimilartothatofbeetrootCitruswillalsocomethroughmimickinglemonpeelwhichisanidealpairingwithbeetsCarawayisincludedheretoofferasweetspiceedgecomplementingthelightsournessintheryecrispbreadsItalsohasanisetoneswhichweheightenwiththeadditionoffennelseed

SERVES4

1tspcuminseeds1tspcarawayseeds2TomThumblettucesorotherroundsoftbutterheadlettuces225gcottagecheesepreferablyLongleyFarm4tbspPickledBeetroot(seehere)seasalt

FORTHEBEETROOTCRISPS

2Chioggiabeetroot(ifyoucanrsquotgetthemuseordinarybeetroot)icingsugarfordusting

FORTHEKNAumlCKEBROumlD

240mlmilk

240mlmilk45ghoneyfrac12sachet(35g)ofdriedactiveyeast270gwholemealflour80gryeflour30gspeltflourfrac12tspfineseasalt1tspcarawayseedstoastedinadryfryingpanandthencrushed1tspfennelseedstoastedinadryfryingpanandthencrushed1tspflakyseasalt

Tomakethebeetrootcrispsfinelyslicethepinkandwhitecandy-stripedbeetsthroughtheirequatorLaytheslicesonawirerackthatwillfitonanovenshelfDustthefinestpossiblelayeroficingsugaroverthemthenturnthemoverandrepeatPlaceinanovensetat50degC(orthelowestpossiblegassetting)andleavefor4ndash6hoursuntilcrunchyandcrisp

MeanwhilemakethebreadHeatthemilkandhoneyto45degC(justabovebodytemperature)SprinkletheyeastintoitandstiracoupleoftimesSetasidefor10minutesanditwillfrothastheyeastisactivated

SiftthefloursintoabowlandaddthefineseasaltandtoastedcrushedseedsPourintheyeastmixtureandstirtomakeadoughTurnitoutontoalightlyflouredsurfaceandkneadfor5minutesuntilsmoothandelasticReturnittothebowlcoverwithatowelandleaveinawarmplacetorisefor1hour

Heattheovento230degCGasMark8KnockbackthedoughbygivingitasmartpercussiveslapthatwillknocktheairfreeSatisfactionforthepacifistFoldthedoughoveracoupleoftimesandrollitbackintoaballthendivideitinto8piecesRollthesebackintoballscoverwithateatowelandleavetorestfor10minutes

Lightlydusttheworksurfacewithryeflourandrolleachballoutuntilitis2ndash3mmthickTransfertobakingsheetslinedwithnon-stickbakingpaperanduseapastrywheeloralargesharpknifetocutthemintolong(ish)rectanglesabout5cmwideSomewillbeshorterthanotherstheendsmight

rectanglesabout5cmwideSomewillbeshorterthanotherstheendsmightnotnecessarilybesquarebuttheflavourissettobebangonPrickthemlightlyalloverwithaforkandfinishwithacoatingofflakyseasaltPlaceintheovenandbakefor10minutesuntillightlybrownedTurnthemoverandcookforafewminutesmoretocolourtheothersideRemovefromtheovenandleavetocoolonawirerackTheywillkeepforaweekinanairtighttinbutgoodlucktryingnottoeatthemwiththecottagecheeseinthefridge

Toastthecuminandcarawayseedsinamedium-hotpanuntilthearomaisheavythentipthemoutontoaplatetocoolCrushthemtogetherwithalittlesaltandsetasideforuseasagarnishSeparatethelettuceleavesandplacetheminicedwaterfor20minutestocrispupDrytheleavesthenservethecrispbreadscottagecheesepickledbeetrootcubesandbeetrootcrispswithalittlepotofthefragrantseasonedcuminandcarawaygarnishingsalt

daggerFromahistoricalperspectiveitislikelythatthefirsteverattemptstomakecheeseresultedinafoodstuffsimilartowhatwenowcallcottagecheeseItisasimplecheesetomakeandonethatcanbeattemptedwithouttheneedforexpensiveorcomplicatedkitchenequipmentThefirstreferencestocottagecheesemakingintheUKdatebackto1831ThemilkwouldbebroughtintothehomeandplacedsomewherewarmwherethenaturalbacteriaincheesewouldproduceenoughacidforthemilktoformInthedayswhenfarmerstransportedmilkbynon-motorisedmeansthemilkwouldbeveryquicklyaffectedInevitablyitwoulddeveloptoomuchacidityparticularlyinwarmweatherCheesewasthereforeasimplebutbrilliantsolutionenablingthepreservationofvastquantitiesofmilkobtainedduringthemilkingseasonCottagecheesewasnotonlyeasytomakebutitwasoftenmadefromleftovermilkthathadalreadystartedtoturn

daggerCarawayisthoughttohavebeenamongthefirstspiceplantscultivatedinEuropeIndeedHaroldMcGeesuggeststhatcarawayhelpedtoshapeworldhistorylsquoancientEuropeanhungerforAsianspiceswasanimportantdrivingforceinthedevelopmentofItalyPortugalSpainHollandandEnglandintomajorseapowersduringtheRenaissancersquo(OnFoodandCooking2004)ThisgivesresonancetothesignificanceofcarawaytoourownlocalareagiventheimportanceofBristolasamainUKseaport

RoastCrownPrinceSoupwithTandooriSpiceWalnutOilandCrispSageLeaves

ThearrivaloftheCrownPrincesquashsignalstheendofautumnForusitisthekingofsquashesThissweetlyflavouredregalfriendisastapleingredientthatwillremainwithusformostofthewintermonthsItsvibrantorangefleshisdelicatelysweetandhasanexcellenttextureforroastingTheviolet-greyskinishardtocutthroughsoourchefsarmthemselveswiththeirbestknivestoreleasethegoldensumptuousnesswithinPerhapsduetoitsshapetheCrownPrinceissometimesreferredtoasapumpkinratherthanasquashBotharemembersoftheCucurbitaceaefamilycloserelativesofcucumberscourgettesandmelonsTheirfleshishighinwatersotheybenefitfromlongcookingwhichbringsouttheirhoneyednuttinessTheadditionofsagetothissoupwasarevelationItaddsanearthiermoremeatytonetothewholeensembleTryityouwillseeasideofsquashthatyoumighthaveneverseenbefore

SERVES4ndash612ndash14kgCrownPrincesquashpeeleddeseededandcutinto25cmcubesrapeseedoil500gonionsfinelysliced250gcarrotsfinelysliced250gcelery(orceleriac)finelysliced150gclarifiedbutter(seebelow)4ndash6smallsageleavesvintagecidervinegarsuchasOstlerrsquos2tbsptandoorispicemixwalnutoilfordrizzlingfineseasalt

Heattheovento180degCGasMark4SpreadthesquashcubesoutonaroastingtrayinasinglelayerLightlycoatwithrapeseedoilandafinescatteringofseasaltRoastfor30ndash45minutesstirringoccasionallyuntiltenderandbeginningtoblackenaroundtheedgesTakeoutoftheovenandsetaside

Heatatablespoonofrapeseedoilinasaucepanaddtheonionscarrotsand

Heatatablespoonofrapeseedoilinasaucepanaddtheonionscarrotsandceleryandcookoveramediumheatfor10ndash15minutesuntilthevegetablesaresoftenedbutnotcolouredAddthesquash1frac12teaspoonsofsaltandenoughwatertocoverBringtoasimmerandcookfor5minutesTransfertoablenderandblitzuntilsmoothAdjusttheconsistencyofthesoupbyaddingmorewaterifnecessaryseasonwithsaltandcidervinegartotasteandblitzoncemore

HeattheclarifiedbutterinasmallsaucepanuntilveryhotbutnotsmokingAddthesageleavesandcookfor1ndash2minutesuntiltheygoadarkshadeofgreenandarecrispDrainonkitchenpaperandkeepinawarmplacePassthesoupthroughafinesieveintoacleanpanandreheatgentlyDecantintoservingbowlsdustwiththetandoorispiceandgarnisheachportionwithacrispsageleafandagenerousdrizzleofwalnutoil

ClarifiedButterMelt250gunsaltedbutterinapanoveralowheatuntilthebutterhasseparatedGentlypourintoatallclearjugandleavetosettleWhenithasformedthreelayers(whitefrothytopclearyellowmiddleandwhitesolids)startskimmingTheaimistokeepasmuchoftheclearmiddlelayeraspossiblewhileremovingallofthemilksolidsUsingasmallladleskimoffthetoplayeranddiscardSlowlypourthebutterfatintoacleansaucepanleavingallthewhitemilksolidsbehind(discardthese)daggerThehistoryofsquashisratherinterestingMostvegetablefoodsleavenoarchaeologicaltracessquashisarareexceptionEvidencesuggeststhatitwasfirstcultivatedinCentralAmericamorethan8000yearsagoItisbelievedthattheEnglishwordforlsquosquashrsquoderivesfromthenativeAmericanwordaskutasquashwhichmeanslsquoeatenraworuncookedrsquoThisisasomewhatsurprisingchoiceofnamegiventhatsquashiscertainlynotatitsbestwheneatenrawItisevidentwhysquashwasastaplefoodbackthenitiseasytogrowhighincarbohydratesanddependablyversatileWhenitwaslatertransportedbytheSpanishconquistadorestoEuropeitwasinitiallyrejectedforbeingtooblandThefruit(foritisafruitratherthanavegetable)waslaterrediscoveredasitbecameknownforstoringwellandprovidingtheenergyrequiredforaharddayrsquosgraftinthecolderEuropeanclimate

Salt-bakedCeleriacPortobelloMushroomandAppleSoup

CeleriacrsquoscloserelationshiptoceleryisthereasonitispossibletodetecthintsofceleryinwhatwouldotherwisebeanuttyearthytastecommontorootvegetablesThisknobblyvegetableisnotverycommonoutsideEuropeWeliketoregarditasahiddengemItsdelicateaniseednotescoupledwithatouchofparsleyareintriguingandneverdisappointingInthisrecipewepairitwithPortobellomushroomstoenhancetheearthinessinherentintheceleriacAppleandceleryareaclassiccombinationandbeingsurroundedbyover70differentvarietiesofapplesattheWalledGardenwecouldnotresistthisadditionWefindthattheapplecomplementsthesoftcitrushintspresentinthisuglyducklingoftherootvegetableworldremarkablywell

SERVES8

125kgceleriac100gcoarseseasalt500gonionsslicedrapeseedoilbutter125gcarrotssliced250gPortobellomushroomssliced500mlwhitechickenstock(seehere)125gBlenheimOrange(orBramley)appleflakyseasaltwhitepepper

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6Peeltheceleriacandcutitinto4ndash6cmchunksItcanbedeterminedtoholditsformsogoeasywithyourhandsaroundtheknifeScatterthecoarsesaltoverabakingtrayandplacetheceleriacchunksontopCoverthetraywithaluminiumfoilsealingitwellaroundtheedgesBakefor30ndash45minutesuntiltheceleriacbeginstosoftenThesaltwillextractsomeofthemoistureandtheflavourwillintensify

Inalargesaucepansweattheonionsinalittlerapeseedoilandbutteruntil

InalargesaucepansweattheonionsinalittlerapeseedoilandbutteruntilsoftenedRemovetheceleriacfromthesaltbrushingawayanythathasstucktoit(thesaltcanbeusedagainforbakingvegetablesinthesamemanner)Addtheceleriaccarrotsmushroomschickenstockand500mlwatertotheonionsandbringtoasimmerCookfor30minutesoruntilthevegetablesarejustsofttothepointofaknife

PeelandgratetheappleLadlethesoupintoablenderfillingitonlyhalffullandblitzuntilsmoothPasstheblendedsoupthroughasieveintoacleanpanreturninganythingtoocoarsetotheremainingunblendedsoupBlendtheremainingsoupaddingthegratedapplethenstrainitintothepanandreheatgentlyTheapplewillremainafreshflavourifyouadditatthispointSeasonwithsaltandcrackedwhitepepperthenserve

Deep-friedAuberginewithRoseHipSyrup

WiththeirtannedskinandMediterraneanlooksyouwouldbeforgivenforthinkingthatauberginesgrowonlyinwarmerclimatesWhilsttheydorequireacertainamountofwarmthandwatertheyareperfectlyabletothriveinBritishsoilinthesummerndashorindoorswhenthetemperaturedropsTheybelongtothesamenightshadefamilyaspotatoesandtomatoesandarenotvegetablesinbotanicaltermsbutenormousberriesThegentlemenofthenightshadefamilytheyarerarelyassertiveInsteadtheyliketoblendwiththeirsurroundingsofferingasmoothdelicateflavourEveniftheirpresencesometimesbordersonthesideoffleshyitisstillwonderfullyunderstatedDespitetheoccasionalhintofbitternesstheyarefartoogoodmanneredforthistobecomeinsultingndashwhichisnottosaythattheyareblandsimplythattheyseektocomplementtheircompanionsratherthanimposeonthemSomewouldcallthisversatilityWefrytheauberginesinthisdishtoemphasisethecreaminessoftheir

fleshThepairingwithrosehipisintendedtoinjectsomeintensityofflavourthesyrupmagnificentlycounteractingtheslightbitternessintheaubergineWewouldrecommendexperimentingwiththeamountyouaddWestronglysuspectthataddinganindecentamountofsyruponthisoccasioncanonlybegoodforthesoulThereisstilllikelytobesomeleftoverItwillkeepforayearinasterilisedjarandcanbeservedwithDuckTerrine(seehere)orRabbitConfit(seehere)andisalsoverygoodwiththebrowniesonhere

SERVES4ndash62aubergines1litrerapeseedoilfordeep-fryingcornflourfordustingseasaltsheeprsquossorrelorcommonsorrelleavestoserve

FORTHEROSEHIPSYRUP

400grosehips375gcastersugar

Cuttheauberginesinto8cm-longchipsroughly5mmthickPlacethemin

Cuttheauberginesinto8cm-longchipsroughly5mmthickPlacetheminalargebowlandsaltlightlyensuringanevencoatingCoverandsetasidefor1hour

PuttherosehipsinafoodprocessorandblitzonfullspeeduntiltheyarecompletelybrokendownTransferthemtoasaucepanadd650mlwaterandbringtotheboilRemovefromtheheatandleavetoinfusefor20minutesTransferthemixturetoasievelinedwith2layersofwetmuslinsetoverabowlLeaveforabout30minutesuntilalltheliquidhasdrainedthroughPourtheliquidintoapanaddthesugarandbringtotheboilstirringtodissolvethesugarBoilfor5minutesoruntilreducedtoasyrupyconsistencythensetasidetocoolalittle

Heattherapeseedoilto170degCinalargedeepsaucepanoradeep-fatfryerWhiletheoilisheatinglightlycoattheaubergineincornflourFryinthehotoilinsmallbatchesforabout2minutesuntilcrispandlightlygoldenRemovefromtheoilusingaslottedspoonanddrainonkitchenpaperKeepwarmwhileyoucontinuethroughtheremainingbatchesensuringtheoilstayscloseto170degC

Arrangetheaubergineonservingplatesdresswiththerosehipsyrupandscatteroverthesheeprsquossorrelleavesifusing

daggerAuberginesarenotinfactaMediterraneanvegetabletheyoriginatedinIndiaandareknowntohavebeenpartoftheChinesedietfromasearlyasthefifthcenturyWehavetheArabstothankfortheintroductionofauberginesintoEuropehavingbeenbroughttoSicilyintheeleventhcenturyFoodwriterssuchasElizabethDavidplayedalargepartinintroducingthemtotheUKinthemid-1950s

PearNativeNapeHazelnutCardamomandEwersquosCheeseSalad

AutumnoffersusalotofpearvarietiesintheWalledGardenComiceandAnjoucanbeseenfromthewest-facingwindowsoftheglasshousewhilegrowingontheothersideofthewallintheorchardnearourbelovedquincetreeisalesser-knownvarietyBeurredrsquoAvalonIthasfirmwhitejuicyfleshwithaninitialsweetnessthatendsslightlysourItisspecifictoSomersetanditsnameisrootedinthemythologyofGlastonburyandlegendsofKingArthurFirstfoundintheareaaroundGlastonburyToritwasfinallyrecordedafewyearslaterin1842DuringthethirteenthcenturythenamesofAvalonandGlastonburybegantooverlapandstoriesweretoldofKingArthurdyingontheislandofAvalonThisislandhasalsobeenassociatedinCeltichistorywithapplesAllofthesethreadsofmythhistoryandnamingoffruithavebecomewovenintooneanotherThispearhasanequalflavourpartnerinFosseWayFleececheeseAhard

ewersquoscheesewithaclosesmooth-bodiedtextureandagentlenuttinessitismadebyPhilipRainbowandAnitaRobinsonoftheSomersetCheeseCompanyYoucanmaturethischeesetointensifyitsflavourwrapitinnon-stickbakingpaperandstoreinthesaladdrawerofthefridgeThekeyistokeepitinaplacewherethereislittleaircirculationsoitdoesnrsquotdryoutCheckiteveryfewdaysandwipeawayanymouldthatbuildsupNativeNapeisanair-curedhammadebyNativeBreedswhichproduces

someofthefinestcharcuteriewehavecomeacrossItisrunbyGrahamandRuthWaddingtonwhosourcenativeandrare-breedanimalsfromsmallfarmsinGloucestershiretomaketheiraward-winningproductsWedressthesaladwithcardamomandtruffledhoneyfromaBritish

companycalledTruffleHunter

SERVES4

200gNativeNapecuredham(orothergoodair-curedham)200gagedFosseWayFleececheese(orotheragedewersquoscheese)cutintoshavings

1largepearpreferablyBeurredrsquoAvaloncoredandslicedwaferthinonamandoline

40ghazelnutsroughlycrushed

40ghazelnutsroughlycrushed

FORTHEDRESSING

4tbspvintagecidervinegarsuchasOstlerrsquos2tspDijonmustard1tspgroundcardamom1tbsptruffledhoneyfrac14tspxanthangum(optionalbutrecommended)frac12tspfineseasalt100mlrapeseedoil

Tomakethedressingputalltheingredientsexcepttheoilinablenderandblitzfor30secondsSlowlypourintheoilwhiletheblenderisrunningasyouwouldformayonnaiseOncealltheoilhasbeenincorporatedblitzfor1minuteIfyouaremakingthisinadvancedecantintoasuitablebottleShakewellbeforeusing

PuttingthesaladtogethercouldnrsquotbeeasierDecorativelyarrangethehamsliceson4servingplatesandarrangetheshavedewersquoscheeseamongstthemAddtheslicesofpearlightlydresswiththedressingandscatterthecrushedhazelnutsoverthetop

PreservedDuckLegChorizoButterBeanandConfitTomatoPotStewwithYinYangBeans

InspiredbytheFrenchcassouletthispotstewisamixtureofallourfavouritethingsInsteadofharicotsweusebutterbeansfortheirfluffytextureandmildmineralflavourWealsoaddchorizomakingthissimilartotheSpanishstewsyouwouldfindinAsturiasMadebyVinceCastellanosourchorizoissublimewiththetomatoesandbeansWeserveourpotstewwithconfitducklegsalsoacomponentofthehallowedcassouletWetreatthetomatoesinthisrecipeinasimilarmannerroastingthemslowlyinalightcoatingofrapeseedoilwithplentyofseasoningWeareveryfondofthismethodofpreservinganditmaywellbecomeoneofyourfavouritestooTheyinyangorcaorcalypsobeanisaMexicanheirloomvarietythought

tobeover300yearsoldthatispassedaroundcarefullybygardenerswithawarningtotakecareofitandhelppreventitsdemiseItsdrought-resistantgrowingqualitiesshowwhyitishighlyvaluedconsistentlycroppingyearonyearServethestewwithanauthenticsourdoughloafndashitsdrytexturewillbe

perfectformoppingupthejuicesndashandabottleofPerryrsquosTremlettciderYouwillunderstandwhywerecommendthisciderthemomentaftertheheadyfarmsilagetastepassesandoddlyyouwanttodrinkthewholebottleinoneContraryforcesareinterconnectedandinterdependentinthenaturalworldaccordingtotheConceptofyinandyangandthiscidercertainlyembodiesthat

SERVES4

200gceleriac200gonionsrapeseedoil4garlicclovesfinelychopped4cookingchorizosausages300gbutterbeanssoakedfor24hoursin2changesofwaterthendrained500mlhamhockbroth(seehere)orwhitechickenstock(seehere)300mlcider

1teaspoonpar-cel(seehere)or1tbspchoppedceleryleaf4ConfitDuckLegs(seehere)100gyinyangbeans(ifunavailableusebroadbeansfreshpeasorsugarsnapscookedinboilingwaterfor1minutethendrained)

100gConfitTomatoes(seehere)cidervinegarseasalt

Heattheovento160degCGasMark3Peeltheceleriacandcutitinto2cmchunksChoptheonionstoroughlythesamesizeHeatalittlerapeseedoilinalargecasseroleaddtheceleriaconionsandgarlicandcookgentlyuntilsoftenedAddthechorizosausagesbutterbeanshamhockbrothciderandparcelBringtotheboilthenplacetheducklegsonthesurfaceCoverthecasseroletransfertotheovenandbakefor1frac34hoursAddtheyinyangbeansandthetomatoesandbakefor15minuteslongeroruntilthebeansaretenderSeasonwithsaltandcidervinegartotaste

daggerAcasserolemeanslsquoalargepotrsquotoustodayandformanyofusthatconstitutesacast-ironLeCreusetinheritedfromourparentsseasonedandcaredforWithinthispreciouspotmeatvegetablesandliquidareslowlycookedwiththelidonuntileverythingistenderandcaramelisedSetuponthetableitisservedstraighttotheplateeveryonefightingoverthecrunchyburntedgesElizaActonandMrsBeetonofferedrecipesforcasserolesveryunlikethekindwemaketodayincludingcuriousaffairsofricecrushedtoapasteandsmoothedtotheoutsideofthepan

WoodPigeonBreastswithPersianSpicedBulgarWheatCucumberAniseedandBlackCabbage

AtBarleyWoodthepigeonsarequitehappygrazingthecropscultivatedbythelocalfarmerandMarkthegardenerintheWringtonValeInautumntheyalsoenjoychestnutsandacornsandwheneveryoudisturbapairtheyclatterupwardstakingoffintothewindFromtheglasshouseyouseethemriseintothesouthwesterlytowardsCrookPeakWelovepigeonmeatCookedrareitisirresistiblewitharichredhue

thatistheresultofthisbirdrsquosabilitytotravelvastdistanceswithoutresting

WeserveitwithbulgarwheatseasonedwithourownspiceblendInIranthespicemixwouldbecalledadviehamixtureofspiceschosenfortheiruseinaparticulardishwithinfinitecombinationsTheancientSilkRoutetravelledthoughthenorthofIranandleftitsculinarylegacyCooksintheuplandsandthenorthwesternareasoftenincorporatethedelicatefragranceofdriedrosepetalsintotheiradviehWehavecombinedallspiceturmericcinnamonblackpeppersaffronraisinsandpistachiostomakeablendthatcomplementspigeonperfectlyWeservethisdishwithcrispblackcabbage(cavolonero)flash-friedin

rapeseedoilandcidervinegarwithapinchofcuminItiswithoutdoubtourfavouritewayofservingthisbrassicaFinallywegarnishthedishwithcucumberandanisebuttermilkTraditionallymilkwouldhavebeenleftovernighttoseparatesocreamcouldbechurnedintobutterWhatremainedwasthebuttermilkThickerthanmilkandthinnerthancreamithasasourtangthatisjustwonderfulwiththesweetcucumberandtherichspiceoftherestofthedishIfyoucannotfindbuttermilkthensouredcreamwillworkverywelltooJaneGrigsonwroteinEnglishFood(Macmillan1974)lsquoNocookery

belongsexclusivelytoitscountryoritsregionCooksborrowndashalwayshaveborrowedndashandadaptthroughthecenturiesrsquoWecertainlyhave

SERVES4100mlbuttermilkorGreek-styleyoghurtalittlerapeseedoil8woodpigeonbreastsskinned200gblackcabbage(cavolonero)stalksremovedapinchofgroundcumin1tbspcidervinegarflakyseasalt

FORTHESWEETPICKLEDCUCUMBER

1smallcucumbercutinto1cmdicefineseasaltcidervinegarcastersugar1tspaniseed

1tspaniseed

FORTHEPERSIANSPICEDBULGARWHEAT

300gbulgarwheat2tspsalt1frac12tbspgroundallspice1frac12tbspgroundcinnamon1tspgroundturmeric1tspgroundblackpepper6saffronstamens20graisins50gshelledroastedpistachionuts

Forthepickledcucumberweighthecucumbercubesthenlightlysaltthemandleavetodrainfor1hour

MeasureoutthesameweightofvinegarasthecucumberthendothesamewiththecastersugarPutthevinegarandsugarinasaucepanaddtheaniseedandbringtotheboilstirringtodissolvethesugarRemovefromtheheatandleavetocoolRinseanyresidualsaltfromthecucumberandmixitwiththevinegarandsugarsolutionStoreinthefridge(youwonrsquotneeditallforthisrecipebuttheremainderwillkeepfor4weeksandcanbeusedasasaladgarnishorasanaccompanimenttoaburger)Combine50gofthepickledcucumberwiththebuttermilkstirwellandrefrigeratetillneeded

Putalltheingredientsforthebulgarwheatinasaucepanadd600mlwaterandstiruntilcombinedPlaceoveramediumheatcoverandbringtotheboilReducetheheattoitslowestsettingandcookforabout30minutesoruntilthewheathasabsorbedalltheliquidStirtocheckithasnotcaughtonthebottomofthepanKeepwarmwhileyoucookthepigeonHeattheovento200degCGasMark6andputabakingsheetinittoheatupPlaceaheavy-basedfryingpanoverahighheatuntilitisreallyhotSplashadropofrapeseedoilontoeachpigeonbreastandrubitoveritDustlightlywithflakyseasaltTakethebakingsheetoutoftheovenLay4ofthepigeonbreastsinthefryingpanandcookfornolongerthan30secondspersideuntillightlybrownedPlacethemonthebakingsheetCleanthepanbrieflywithawadofkitchenpaperandrepeatwiththe4remainingbreastsPut

withawadofkitchenpaperandrepeatwiththe4remainingbreastsPutthemintheovenandcookfor2frac12minutesforpinkandperfectlycookedor3minutesformediumTransferthemtoaboardtorestwhileyoucooktheblackcabbage

HeatalittlerapeseedoilinafryingpanaddthecabbagecuminandalittlesaltandfryuntiljustheatedthroughAddthecidervinegarthesteamfromthevinegarwillcookthecabbageinafewsecondsOncetheliquidhasevaporatedtipthecontentsintoawarmservingdish

SlicethepigeonbreastsandserveaccompaniedbythecabbageandbulgarwheatalongwithaspoonfulofthebuttermilkdressingWarnyourfellowdinerstobemindfulofanyleadshotthatmaybehiddeninthebreasts

daggerHistoricallyeatenbythearistocracyandnotcommonersupuntiltheseventeenthcenturyonlythelordofthemanorwaspermittedtobuildadovecoteThesestructureswereoftenimpressiveandmanyresembleourciderbarnwhichisofroundNormandesignThedovemanurewouldhavebeenusedasfertilisernotanapproachthatiscommonlypractisedtoday

ChickenMole

Theintricaciesofmole(pronouncedlsquomo-layrsquo)werenotfullyunderstoodbyusuntilMatthewandPaucirclacamebackfromavisittoPaucirclarsquoslargeboisterousfamilyinMexicoItwasamemorableexperienceinwhichtheyhadeatensomeformofchilliateverysinglemealBreakfastwasnotsparedfromthisjoyfulandsometimespainfulchillimarathonItwasinfactthemostimportantmealofthedaythechoiceofchillibeingparamountForMexicanschilliisasimportantassaltandpepperItisanessentialmeansofseasoningandlackofchilliinamealisfrowneduponunlessyouareaveryyoungchildpracticallyababyItwasblissCapsaicinisthechemicalfoundinchilliesthatmakesthemspicyItis

believedtostimulatetheproductionofendorphinsinthebraincausingsomepeopletofeelasenseofeuphoriawheneatingspicyfoodswhichcanbecomemildlyaddictiveForMatthewandPaucirclaitwascertainlyalotoffuntopushtheendorphinboundariesthroughtheconsumptionofendlesschilliestimeandtimeagainTheirwithdrawalsymptomsstartedbecomingapparentthemomenttheysteppedofftheplaneandwerefacedwithanoverlysweetbreakfastcerealSobackinTheEthicureankitchenaplanwassetinmotiontoattempttocrackthequintessentialMexicanchillichocolatedishwithasmanyBritishingredientsaspossibleThewordlsquomolersquocomesfromthepre-hispanicNahuatlmeaninglsquosaucersquoIt

isunlikelythattheAztecsaddedanychocolatetotheirmolesauceoriginallyndashitwassimplyacombinationofchilliesWithtimeeachregioninMexicodevelopeditsownmoleandtherearenowamultitudeofcolourfulversionsrangingfromredtogreenandevenapinkonefromthetownofTaxcoTheMexicanestateofOaxacaalonehassevendifferentversionsofmolePaucirclarsquosgrandmothertookthelaborioustaskofcookingmolevery

seriouslyHercollectionofspicesstoodinjarsonthekitchenshelvesreadytobecalledintoactionTheaimwastomakeathickshimmerysauceandyouknewitwasreadythemomentthespoonwasabletostandupinitonitsownEpazoteisahighlypopularherbinMexicancookingManypeople

considerittobeaweedsoitisveryeasytogrowevenintheUKYoushouldbeabletobuyseedsonlinebutifyouprefernottogrowititispossibletobuyitasadriedherbtooAlternativelyyoucansubstitutewintersavory

savoryItishighlylikelythatyouwonrsquotbeabletogetthechillieslistedinthis

recipeatyourlocalsupermarketDonotbeputoffbythisTheyarewellworthtrackingdownandasimplesearchonlinewillrevealseveralsuppliersHavingthemdeliveredtoyourdoorwillsaveyouatriptotheshopsMoleistraditionallyservedwithturkeyorchickenThebrinefor

seasoningthechickenhastobemadeinadvanceasitneedstobechilledItwillkeepindefinitelyinthefridgesomakeitatyourleisure

SERVES8

2free-rangechickensfrac12garlicheadrapeseedoil8mulatochillies8guajillochillies4anchochilliesadashofcidervinegar1kgtomatoes300gonionschopped4slicesofstalebreadcutintosmallcubes150gdriedcobnutsorhazelnutsfinelygroundinafoodprocessor150gunsaltedpeanutsfinelygroundinafoodprocessor150graisins1tspgroundallspicefrac12tspgroundclovesfrac12tspgroundcumin1tbspdriedepazote(or2tbspfreshepazote)2litresbrownchickenstock(seehere)1tbspsalt150gdarkchocolatewith75ndash80percentcocoasolids50gmuscovadosugar

FORTHE8PERCENTBRINE

80gsalt80gdarkmuscovadosugar

80gdarkmuscovadosugar1tbspdriedepazote(or2tbspfreshepazote)1bayleaf

TOFINISH

16ndash24corntortillas4tbspsesameseedsfriedinadryfryingpanuntillightlycoloured4tbspcoarselychoppedcoriander

Putallthebrineingredientsinapanwith1litreofwaterandbringtotheboilLeavetocooltoroomtemperaturethenchill

RemovetheskinfromthechickensandsetasideCutthebreastsandlegsfromthechickensthendividethelegsintodrumsticksandthighs(keepthecarcassesforstockseehere)Placethethighsdrumsticksandbreastsinthebrineandleavefor2hours

MeanwhilemakethesauceHeattheovento180degCGasMark4Wrapthegarlicinfoilwithasplashofrapeseedoilandbakefor20minutesLeavetocoolandthensqueezeouttheroastedpulpBreakopenthedriedchilliesandremovetheseedsRehydratethechilliesbyplacingtheminabowlofhotwaterwithadashofvinegarandleavingtocoolDrainandchopfinelytryingnottostainyourfingersasthecapsaicinwillremain

Scoreeachtomatowithacrossonthebaseputtheminapanofsimmeringwaterfor2minutesthendrainandpeelofftheloosenedskinsChopthetomatoesroughlykeepingallthejuiceandseedsseparatelyPourtheseedsandjuicethroughafinesieveintoabowlreservingthejuice

Dividethechickenskinbetween2hotfryingpansandcookuntilitisbrownandthefathasbeenreleasedDiscardtheskinbutkeepthefatinthepansAddtheonionsbreadnutsandraisinstoonepanandthetomatoesandtheirjuicechilliesspicesandepazotetotheotherOncetheonionsarebeginningtocolourtransferthemixturetoalargesaucepanandaddthechickenstockLetthetomatoescontinuetocookuntiltheyarebrokendownaddingasplashofwaterifthemixturestartstolookdryTransferthetomatoestothesaucepanalongwiththesaltAddthechocolateroastgarlicandsugarstirthensimmerwiththelidofffor45minutesoruntil

andsugarstirthensimmerwiththelidofffor45minutesoruntilthickenedstirringregularly

Meanwhilepoachthebrinedchickeninalargepanofbarelysimmeringwaterfor35minutesThewatershouldhardlybemovingresultinginsucculentpaleandmoistchickenWarmthetortillasPuttheminabasketandcoverwithadamphotteatoweltoretaintheheatandkeepthempliableStripthechickenmeatofftheboneandserveonthetortillastoppedwithlashingsofmolethenscatteroverthetoastedsesameandcoriander

VenisonCiderandQuinceStewwithHerbedButterDumplings

AsthecropsareharvestedthestubbledfieldsspelltheendoffieldcoverfortheroedeerSoontheleaveswillbegintocolouranddropmakingitmoredifficultforthemtohidefromthestalkerTheruthasfinishedandbucksnolongerfixatedonmatingarealittletheworseforwearandlackinginenergyFamilygroupsbegintoformastheterritorialactivityoflatesummersubsidesTheyhavespentthepreviousmonthsfatteningthemselvesforthecomingwinterandasthefarmersmovethecattlefromthepasturesaroundBarleyWooditseemsagoodtimetobringhomearoebuckForstewingweusetheneckorshoulderndashdonrsquotcombinethemasthecookingtimewillvaryTheneckcontainsafairamountofconnectivetissuewhichwillneed

varyTheneckcontainsafairamountofconnectivetissuewhichwillneedslowcookingtotenderiseitThisisarecipewemakebeforeadayrsquospickingintheorchardndashonefora

weekendwhenyoursquoretidyingthegardenbeforewinterorjustrelaxingCookingthevenisoninciderisidealastheaciditydoesmarvellousthingsAstewneedsanighttocooldownslowlysothatthemeatreabsorbsitsjuicesbecomingmoresucculentNostewcanpossiblybeservedwithoutdumplingsWersquoveoftencaught

JackeatingthemallontheirownwhenwersquovemadetoomanyTheyareverywelcomeduringautumnwhenweneedatouchmorestodgeElizaActonHannahGlasseandConstanceSprygivenumerousrecipesforSuffolkandNorfolkdumplingsandthemainstyleseemstobeforalsquoharddumplingrsquothatcontainsneithersuetnorbutterWemakeourfluffydumplingswithflourbutterandeggsandtheyresemblethoseeatenincentralEuropeChoppedfreshherbsaddfragrance

SERVES6ndash8

200ggoosefat12kgvenisonneckorshouldercutinto3ndash4cmchunks900gredonions450gcarrots225gceleriac2quinces600mlbeefstock(seehere)300mlcider1bayleaf8sprigsofthyme1tbspjuniperberries1tbspdriedpineappleweed(optional)togarnishcidervinegarseasaltandblackpepper

FORTHEHERBEDBUTTERDUMPLINGS

390gself-raisingflour3eggs105gsaltedbutterdiced

105gsaltedbutterdiced1frac12tspsalt2tbspchoppedmixedherbssuchassagethymeparsleyandmintafewtbspdoublecreamblackpepper

Heatsomeofthegoosefatinalargeheavy-basedfryingpanandfrythepiecesofvenisoninsmallbatchesuntilcolouredallovertransferringthemtoalargecasseroleastheyaredoneCuttheonionscarrotsandceleriacintolargechunksndashtheyshouldbetoobigtoeatinonemouthfulastheyaregoingtospendalongtimeinthestewColourtheminthepaninwhichthemeatwasbrownedaddingmoregoosefatasnecessary(thegenerousamountoffatisneededforthisrecipeasvenisonisaleanmeat)Addthevegetablestothecasserole

WashthesoftdowncoatingoffthequincesandthencoreandchopthemtheiraromawillbepineapplerichAddtothecasserolewithalltheremainingingredientsexceptthepineappleweedvinegarandseasoningThecasseroleneedstogointheovenbutdonrsquotpreheatitasitbenefitsfromareallyslowriseintemperatureasHaroldMcGeeadvisesinhisseminalbookOnFoodandCooking(seeboxopposite)Starttheovenat95degC(orthelowestpossiblesettinginagasoven)puttingthecasseroleinwiththelidofftothesideslightlytoallowsomeevaporationThiswillslowlyraisetheinternaltemperatureto50degCLeavefor2hoursthenincreasetheoventemperatureto120degCGasMarkfrac12whichshouldincreasethetemperatureto80degCCookfor1ndash2hourswiththelidstillaskewthentestthemeatfortendernesswithaknifeKeepcheckingathalf-hourintervalsuntilyouaresatisfieditistenderenoughTastethesauceanddecideifyouwouldliketoreduceittoconcentratetheflavourTodothisremovethemeatandvegetablesfromthecasseroleandsetasidePlacethesauceoverahighheatandletitsimmervigorouslyforabout5minutesuntilslightlyreducedinvolumeTasteanddecideifthisstrengthsuitsyouRepeatuntiltheflavourisasyoulikeitthenseasonwithsaltpepperandadashofcidervinegarReturnthemeatandvegetablestothecasseroleandleavetocoolovernightthenchillitinthefridgethenextmorningItwillbereadyafteragentlereheatwhilethedumplingsarebeingmade

Tomakethedumplingssifttheflourintoafoodprocessorandaddtheeggs

TomakethedumplingssifttheflourintoafoodprocessorandaddtheeggsbuttersaltherbsandblackpepperProcessuntilthemixtureresemblesbreadcrumbsthenwiththemachinestillrunningslowlypourinenoughcreamtoformadoughLettheprocessorturnforacoupleofminutestostretchthedoughItshouldbefluffywithaslightlytackyexteriorandbreakaparteasilyIfnotaddadashmorecreamandmixagainTakethedoughoutandshapeinto25cmballsKeepcoveredbeforecookingthem

Poachthedumplingsinalargepanoffast-boilingwaterinbatchesof8ItisessentialthatthewaterisboilingrapidlysotheyfluffupquicklyTheywillfloattothesurfaceastheybegintocookCookforafurther2minutesfromthispointthenremovewithaslottedspoonServethedumplingsdroppedintothattoothsometenderstewwithalightdustingofthechamomilerelativepineappleweedroughlychoppedifyouhaveany

HaroldMcGeemakessomeinterestingpointsonstewingmeatinhisbookOnFoodandCooking(HodderampStoughton2004seehere)ThemoreamuscleisusedthemorecollagenitwillcontainandthetougheritwillbeButwhenyouheatcollagento70ndash80degCitisconvertedintogelatinewhichissoftwobblyeasilydissolvedandkeepsmeatbeautifullytenderHoweveratthistemperaturealthoughthecollagenisconvertedintogelatineyoualsolosemoisturewhichmakesthemeatdrierMcGeersquosmethodthereforeadvocateskeepingthemeatbelow50degCforalongtimewhichweakensthecollagenthenquicklyraisingthetemperaturewhenthemeatisalmostcookedtoconvertthecollagenintogelatineThiswillretainmoreofthemoisturethanifthemeathadstayedataconstant80degCthroughouttheentirecookingtimeItsoundscomplicatedbutinrealityitisjustthescientificexplanationoftheslow-cookingtechniquewehaveusedforhundredsofyears

QUINCE

ApplesandquincegrowsidebysideinourorchardweonlyhaveonequincetreeanditscropisprizedbyusThesebrightyellowfruitresembleaplumppearandtheyhaveadownyfurthatgrowsontheirskinTheirperfumeisfreshandfloweryandistheresultoflactonesandviolet-likeiononescontainedintheskin(seeHaroldMcGeeOnFoodandCookingpage357)Intheprocessofstewingthetanninsarebrokenupandasaresultthemellowflavourandapple-liketextureofquincecanbeenjoyed

FishSoupwithSpicedHeritageTomatoesFennelSeedandEnglishTruffleOilToast

ThissoupisaquesttocombinetwoofourmajorobsessionscurryspicesandtrufflesAtfirstthismightseemanunlikelymarriageReasondictatesthatthesestrongflavourshavethepotentialtooverpoweranysoupHoweverthefinessearisingfromtheuseofheirloomtomatoesmakesthewholedishaharmoniousspice-infusedaffairHeirloomvarietieshavedesirablecharacteristicsthathavebeenpasseddownforgenerationsandtheyarefarsuperiorintastetoblandcommercialvarietiesToaddfreshtrufflestothissoupmightbeconsiderednotonlyextravagant

butdownrightcavalierInsteadweuseadashoftruffleoilforboththesoupandthetoastTruffleHunterbasedintheCotswoldsmakesanoilfromEnglishrapeseedoilandEnglishblacksummertrufflesthatisgoodenoughtomatchitsItaliancounterpartsTheresultisawarmingterracotta-colouredvelvetysoupthatwillinspireanyonetoheadouttotheBritishcountrysideinsearchofthatcovetedEnglishtruffleTrainingofOchoourresidentdoghascommencedItrsquosbesttoavoidoilyfishsuchasmackerelsalmonortunahereInstead

sticktowhitefishsuchaslingsole(lemonDoverwitchordab)pollockandcuttlefishSquidalsoworkswellandfromasustainabilitypointofviewisregardedasoneofbestfishtoeatndashparticularlyifyoucanfindsquidfromsmallseasonalBritishfisheries

SERVES4

500gtomatoes(thebestyoucanfind)rapeseedoil450gonionsroughlychopped250mlfishstock(seehere)4garliccloveschopped2heapedtbspDijonmustard400gwhitefishfilletsskinonandcleanedsquidcutinto25cmpieces1tspgroundturmeric

FORTHESPICEBLEND

2tspfennelseeds

2tspfennelseeds1tspaniseed1tspcorianderseeds2blackcardamompods15gsalt1tspgroundcinnamon1tspgroundcardamomfrac12tbspgroundturmeric

TOFINISH

250gsourdoughbreadcutintoslices25cmthickrapeseedoiltruffleoil1tspnigella(blackonion)seeds1tspfennelseedscrushedcoarseseasalt

Tomakethespiceblendheattheseedsandcardamominadryfryingpanfor2ndash3minutestoreleasetheiroilsCrushthemfinelyinapestleandmortarwiththesaltthenstirinthegroundspices

Scoreacrossonthebaseofeachtomatoputtheminapanofboilingwaterfor2minutesthendrainandpeelofftheskinsQuarterthetomatoesandscoopouttheseedsandjuiceintoasievesetoverabowlPressontheseedswiththebackofaspoontoensureyougetasmuchjuiceaspossiblethendiscardthem

HeatalittlerapeseedoilinalargepanaddtheonionsandcookuntilsoftenedbutnotcolouredStirinthespiceblendandcookforafewminutesthenaddthetomatoesandtheirjuicefishstockgarlicmustardand250mlwaterBringtoasimmerandcookcoveredfor40minutesPureacuteethesoupinablenderorfoodprocessorandthenpourintoacleanpanthroughafinesievetocatchanylargespicepiecesReheatgently

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6CutthesourdoughslicesintosquaresandtosstheminabowlwithadrizzleofrapeseedoilandanevensmallerdrizzleofthepungenttruffleoilAddsomecoarsesaltshakethroughonce

drizzleofthepungenttruffleoilAddsomecoarsesaltshakethroughoncemorethenspreadoutonabakingsheetandbakefor7ndash8minutesuntilgoldenalloverKeepthetoastsomewherewarmwhilethefishisfried

Placealargenon-stickfryingpanoveramediumheatAddasplashofrapeseedoiltothehotpanthenfrythefishforabout3minutesuntilithascolouredslightlythendustwiththeturmericandfryfornolongerthanaminutemore

LadlethesoupintobowlsdividethefriedfishandsquidbetweenthemanddrizzleasmidgenmoretruffleoilontopFinishwithafewnigellaseedsandcrushedfennelseeds

TRUFFLES

TrufflesaretheendearinglyshymembersofthefungusfamilyUnliketheirbrashovergroundrelativeswhoexplodeinamyriadofshapesandsizesunfazedbythethoughtofbeingspottedbyakeenmycophiletrufflesrsquointroverteddemeanourfindsthemdeepundergroundhavingformedanamicablerelationshipwiththerootsofasuitabletreeFranceandItalyarepopularareasfortrufflehuntersbuttheycancertainlybefoundinBritainin

limestoneorchalkareasupanddownthecountryTheRoyalBotanicalRecordsatKewdocumenttruffleshavingbeenfoundinourlocalareaThetraditionalwaytofindthemuch-prizedfungiisthroughtheuseofpigsalthoughdogsarenowmuch

morecommonlyusedEnglishtrufflescanbefoundfromJulyallthroughthewinter

Slow-braisedGoatrsquosLegwithCiderShallotsLentilsandGlazedCarrots

DuringautumnmuchofthegoatthatweusecomesfromStawleyFarminWellingtonOntheir20acresoflandCarolineAtkinsonmakesafreshcheeseusingrawmilkfromthegoatsfarmedbyherhusbandWillKiddingndashthegoatequivalentoflambingndashtakesplacearoundAprilThebillieswiththeirobviouslackofmilkingpotentialaredestinedforourpotAtthebeginningofautumntheyarearound5monthsoldandweigh10ndash12kgThelegsarejustrightforgentlebraisingTheprinciplesofstewingdiscussedonherearejustasrelevanttothisrecipeNotonlyisliquidaneffectivemeansoftransmittingheatbutitsflavourenhancesthefoodthatiscookedinitAttherestaurantMatthewandIainpressurecookthelegratherthan

braisingitintheovenBothcookingmethodswillgiveimmaculatelytendermeatthatfallsawayfromthebonePressurecookinghasitsownbenefitshowever(seehere)andwefinditthemostreliablewaytoachieveperfectionhereVeryfewingredientsarecookedwiththegoatbuttheshallotsandcarrots

playacrucialroleTheshallotsoffernaturalsugarsaswellassharpnessandasavouryflavourThecarrotsaretheirsidekickreleasingsugarsgraduallyduringtheslowcookingtimeWeservethegoatwithPuylentilswhichholdtheirtextureandhavea

uniquepepperyflavourWeusethesamevegetablesforboththelentilsandthebraiseWehonestlythinkgoathasnevertastedasgoodasitdoesinthisrecipeItisamealofclassiccleanflavoursfoodforthesoul

SERVES4ndash6rapeseedoil100gshallots(orspringonions)finelysliced200gcarrotsfinelysliced100gwhitemushroomsfinelysliced300mlmediumcidersuchasPerryrsquosMorganSweet500mlbrownchickenstock(seehere)2tbspcuminseeds

1tbspfineseasalt1goatrsquoslegshankremovedsoonlythethighremains

FORTHELENTILS

rapeseedoil150gonionsveryfinelydiced100gcarrotscutintosmallcubes50gbrownmushroomscutintosmallcubes350gPuylentils200mlbrownchickenstock(seehere)cidervinegarfineseasalt

FORTHEGLAZEDCARROTS

8ndash12small-mediumcarrotspeeledbutleftwhole125gunsaltedbuttercutinto25cmcubes1frac12tspfineseasalt1tbspcuminseeds1tbspcorianderseeds

TobraisethegoatpourathinfilmofrapeseedoilintoalargepressurecookerandplaceonahighheatAddtheshallotscarrotsandmushroomsandcookfor10ndash15minutesuntiltheybegintocolourDeglazethepanbyaddingtheciderandscrapinganystickybitsawayfromthebasewithawoodenspoonAddthechickenstockcuminseedssaltandthegoatrsquoslegPlacethelidonthepressurecookerandkeepoverahighheatWhenthecookerreachesfullpressureturntheheatdowntolowandmaintainatfullpressurefor2hoursRemovefromtheheatandallowtocoolnaturallywithoutventingthepressurecooker

Forthelentilsheatathinfilmofrapeseedoilinasaucepanaddthevegetablesandsweatfor5ndash10minutesuntilsoftenedAddthelentilsandstirthroughPourinthechickenstockadd550mlwaterandbringtotheboilCoverthepanreducetheheatandcookfor25ndash30minutesuntilthelentilsaretenderandhaveabsorbedalltheliquidSeasontotastewithfineseasaltandasmalldashofcidervinegarItisimportantnottosaltthelentilsbefore

andasmalldashofcidervinegarItisimportantnottosaltthelentilsbeforetheyarecookedortheywillbetoughandchewy

FortheglazedcarrotsputthecarrotsintoasaucepanjustlargeenoughtoholdtheminasinglelayerAddthebuttersaltandspicesandplaceoveramediumheatuntilthebutterhasmeltedTurntheheatdownalittlecoverandcookfor20ndash25minutesshakingthepanoccasionallyforevencookingWhenthecarrotsaresofttakeoffthelidandturntheheatuphightocaramelisethemlightlyRemovefromthepanandsetasidesomewherewarm

Afterthepressurecookerhascooledforatleast40minutesandthesafetylockhasreleasedremovethelidTakeoutthelegandleavetorestonaboardinawarmplaceStraintheliquidfromthepressurecookerthrough4layersofwetmuslinintoacleanpanThismayseemexcessiveanditisoptionalbutthestockwillformasauceandstraininghelpsremoveimpuritiesthatwouldcloudthesaucedetractingfromthefinaldish

SkimoffanyexcessfatfromtheliquidthenbringtotheboilandsimmeruntilreducedbyaboutathirdSeasonwithsalttotaste

ToservecarvethegoatrsquoslegandputitonservingplateswiththelentilsandcarrotsPouroveraliberalamountofthereducedbraisingliquidandfinishwithalittlesprinklingofseasalt

IfyoubraisethelegintheovenratherthanapressurecookercolourthevegetablesinalittlerapeseedoilinasaucepanoverafairlyhighheatthentransfertoaroastingtrayAddthegoatrsquoslegandenoughciderandchickenstocktocomeaboutathirdofthewayupitndashyoumayneedmoreliquidthanthequantitystatedaboveSeasonwiththeseasaltandcoverwith2layersoffoilPlaceinanovenpreheatedto120degCGasMarkfrac12androastfor4ndash5hoursuntilthemeatisimpeccablytenderCheckitevery30ndash45minutestoensurethereisstillenoughliquidtoppingupwithasplashmorechickenstockciderorwaterifnecessaryWhenyoumakethesaucetheliquidmayrequirereducingmorethanathirdtogetthecorrectflavoursokeep

reducingmorethanathirdtogetthecorrectflavoursokeeptastingitandstopwhenyouarehappywithit

PRESSURECOOKING

OurpressureCookersatTheEthicureanareconstantlyutilisedforawealthoftasksrangingfromvastquantitiesofstocktotheslowbraisingoftoughercutsofmeatsrightthroughtothecookingofourbeansandpulsesThepressurecookerisanunsungherointhekitchenWhenitcomestostockspressureCookingachievesadepthof

flavourthatwouldotherwisebeunobtainableThiscomesdowntotwoverysimpleconceptsfirstwhenmakingstocksbytheconventionalmethodthelidisuncoveredThisresultsinwhatarecalledlsquovolatilearomarsquomoleculesrisingoutofthestockAlthoughthismaysmelldelightfulwhatyouaresmellingislostflavourPressurecookershavelidsthatpreventthesearomasfromescapingandwhenusedcorrectlyandallowedtocoolthesearomascondenseinsidethepanandendupbackinthestockLessflavourislostincomparisonwithtraditionalmethodsAndwhilethelidstopsthearomasfromescapingpressurebuildsinsidethepanAtsealevelwaterboilsat100degCgiveortakeafewvariations

dependingonweatherInorderforwatertoboilenergy(intheformofheat)hastolsquopushrsquothewaterupharderthantheatmosphericpressurelsquopushesrsquothewaterdownWhentheforcepushingupisgreaterthantheforcepushingdownwaterboilsAtthetopofMountEveresttheatmosphericpressureislessthanitisatsealevelSowhenclimbersboilwaterathighaltitudesthewaterrequireslessenergy(heat)tolsquopushrsquothewaterupInfacttheboilingpointofwateratthetopofMountEverestisdramaticallyreducedandissomewherecloserto70degCInrelationtopressurecookingtheoppositeisalsotrueIfyouincreasetheatmosphericpressurethereismorepressurepushingdownonthewaterandwhatyouareleftwithisaboilingpointthatisabove100degCThisisbecausetoboilwaterunderpressureittakesmoreenergy(heat)topushthewaterupagainsttheatmosphericpressurepushingthewaterdownYouraverage

atmosphericpressurepushingthewaterdownYouraveragepressurecookerisdesignedtotakethetemperatureofwaterto120degCIainandMatthewarefascinatedbytheideaofsuper-heatedwaterbecauseflavoursarediffusedintothestockatagreaterrateathighertemperaturesndashandwestrivetocreategreaterdepthofflavourwitheverypressurecookingattemptTherearefurtheradvantagestousingapressurecookerat

homePressurecookersrequirelesswaterforcookingthefooddoesnothavetobeimmersedinliquidasthecookercontainssteamaswellasliquidThismeansthatlessenergyisrequiredtoheattheliquidtothedesiredtemperaturendashsomethingthatisverymuchinlinewithourstrongbeliefinreducingenergyconsumptionVitaminsarealsosaidtobepreservedmoreefficientlywhencookedunderpressureduetothesmallerquantitiesofliquidneededcombinedwiththefastercookingtimenutrientshavelessopportunitytoleachoutintothewaterWhenapressurecookerisusedcorrectlyliquidwillnotcome

totheboilWithstocksthatarehighlyvaluedforclaritythisisahugepositiveTakeyourtraditionalstockmethodforasimplestockbonesareroastedputinwaterwithvegetablesandherbsandcookedfor4hoursUsuallyastockwillbubbleawayrelativelyunattendedformostofthistimewiththecookoccasionallyskimmingoffimpuritiesIntheprocessofastockbubblingthebubblescreatemovementthroughthewaterwhichinturnbreaksdownvegetablematterintotinypiecesNotonlythatbutmotioncreatedbywaterboilingemulsifiesanyfatsintothestockAllofthatvegetablematterandfatresultinacloudystockInapressurecookerwatersitsmotionlessat120degCWhatyouareleftwithisaclearstockwhichcaninturnbeusedtoproducecrystal-clearsaucesorprovidethehiddenpunchofflavourthatmakesyourdishahit

PheasantKievwithWinterTarragonandStrawberryMyrtle

TheepitomeofautumncomfortfoodthiswasonthemenuduringTheEthicureanrsquosfirstmonthWeopenedinOctoberaboutamonthintothepheasantseasonandthiswasourplayonchickenKievndashasuperiorversioninouropinionduetothecomplexnatureofpheasantThehistoryoftheKievbeginsinRussiaandendsmostlyinthesupermarketchillercabinetAsaconceptitisflawlesscrispbreadcrumbedmeatoozingwithgarlicherbsandbutterForthefillingweaddtwoveryunderusedingredientsThefirstis

strawberrymyrtleanevergreenshrubthathasbrightredberriesaboutthesizeofcranberriesinautumnTheyarereminiscentofspicedstrawberryandtakefirst-timetasterscompletelybysurpriseJekkaMcVicartellsusthattheywereQueenVictoriarsquosfavouritefruitandshewouldoftenhavethemsentupfromCornwallTheirfruityspiceisacompletehitwithpheasantbutshouldyounotbeabletofindthemjuniperwilldoagoodjobtooThesecondspecialingredientiswintertarragon(Tageteslucida)aperennialwithdistinctlyaniseed-flavouredleavesItcanbepickedwhenFrenchtarragonisnolongeravailableandhalftheamountisneededForPaucirclaithasaparticularrelevanceastheflowerofwintertarragonformspartofthedecorationsduringthediacuteadelosmuertosortheDayoftheDeadIthasrootsinSouthAmericanculturethatgorightbacktotheAztecsandisstillusedbymanyMexicanIndiansasaningredientinincense

SERVES4

4largepheasantbreastsskinned100gsoftenedsaltedbutter2tbspfinelychoppedwintertarragon3tbspstrawberrymyrtle(orjuniper)2largeeggsbeaten250gstalebreadmadeintofinebreadcrumbs30gplainflourfineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperValorPotatoMash(seehere)toserve

FORTHEBRINE

40gfineseasalt2tspfennelseeds

2tspfennelseeds1tspfreshlygroundblackpepper

BeginbymakingthebrinendashthiscanbedonewellinadvanceandkeptinthefridgeuntilneededPutthesaltandspicesinasaucepanwith500mlwaterandbringtotheboilImmediatelyremovefromtheheatandleavetocoolthentransfertoaplasticboxandchillthoroughly

Putthepheasantbreastsinthebrineandleavefor2hoursDrainoffthebrinepourcoldwateroverthepheasantandleavefor2minutesDrainagainandpatdryonkitchenpaperKeepinthefridgeuntilneeded

MeanwhilemashtogetherthebutterandtarragonusingthebackofaforkDivideitinto4portionsandflatteneachoneoutintoasquareshapethatwillfitinsideapheasantbreastPlacethebutteronsomegreaseproofpaperandfreezefor1hour

ButterflythepheasantbreastsTodothislayeachoneonaboardandusingaverysharpknifecutintothebreastparalleltothechoppingboarduntilyoureach1cmfromtheotheredgeEssentiallyyouareenablingthebreasttoopenupcompletelywhilethe2sidesstayconnectedbyalsquohingersquoOnceeachbreasthasbeenopenedupplaceaportionofthebutterinthecentrealongwithaquarterofthestrawberrymyrtleBrusharoundtheedgesofbothsidesofthebreastwithalittleofthebeateneggthencloseitencasingthebutterandherbs

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6Spreadoutthebreadcrumbsinaroastingtrayandbakefor5minutesStirwellthenreturnthemtotheovenandcontinuetobakestirringat2-minuteintervalsuntilthecrumbsarecompletelydryandcrispSetasidetocool

Placetheflourbreadcrumbsandremainingbeateneggin3separatebowlsCoateachbreastinflourthendipitintheeggandcoatwiththebreadcrumbsFinallydipeachbreastbackintotheeggandthencoatwithafinallayerofbreadcrumbsThislsquodouble-diprsquomethodensuresmorecrunchontheexteriorandalsohelpspreventthebutterescaping

PuttheKievsonaroastingtrayplaceintheovenandbakefor14minutesServewiththemashandseasonalgreens

HANGINGPHEASANTS

WhenbuyingpheasantstrytoensurethatyoutakehomeyoungbirdsyoucandothisbycheckingthebeakandclawsOldermeansthickerandharderAbraceofpheasantsisacock(male)andahen(female)Oldstalwartsofgamewouldadvisethatcocksmustbehunglongerthanhensduetotheirmoreactive

lifestyleandlargersizeInpracticeitalldependsonthetemperatureatwhichtheyarehungandontheageofthebirdWewouldadvisebuyingabracethathasalreadybeenhungbyyourbutcherThebasicsciencebehindhangingisthatenzymesinthemeatattackothercellmoleculesandthisinturnreduces

theselargemoleculesintotastiersmallermoretenderpieces(seeMcGeeOnFoodandCookingpage144)

Wintertarragon

Strawberrymyrtle

daggerThestorygoesthatJasonandtheArgonautsbroughtthepheasantbacktoGreece(alongwiththeGoldenFleece)fromtheplacenowthoughttobeGeorgiandashtheLatinnameforpheasantiscochicusaderivativeofthatareaItwasthenbroughttoBritainbytheRomansandappearedinfossilisedformatCorbridgearoundthesiteofHadrianrsquoswallEleventh-CenturyremainsoffeaststhatincludepheasantbonesaboundItwasnotuntiltheeighteenthandnineteenthcenturiesthatnewvarietiesofpheasantwereintroducedfromtheFarEastandChinaThemalesreallyaresplendidtheircoloursareautumnalandseemtomirrorthetreesrsquoseasonaltransformationtogoldsredsandbrownsThesebirdsarenotparticularlycleverandDorothyHartleyhadacunningtechniqueforpoachingthemfromhergardeninsummerlsquoPheasantisfairlycommoninEnglandinSummerwhenthecockinvadesthecottagegardenstosneakthepeasYoucatchhimquietlywithapaperbagandraisinsSmearthepaperconeinsidewithtreacleorgumputafewraisinsatthebottomandpropthe

bagupagainstthepeasWhenhestickshisheadinhecannotseewheretogosohestandstilltillyoufetchhimrsquo(FoodinEnglandpage202)

RareRoastSirloinofBeefwithBordelaiseSauceBlackCabbageandTruffleCauliflower

OneofourfavouritefeaturesattheWalledGardenisthemainseatingareaoftherestaurantwhichwecalltheglasshouseWithitsnear-perfect180-degreeviewoftheSomersethillsitgivesusarealsenseofthechangingcountrysidethroughouttheseasonsFromherewehaveoftenobservedthedifferentweatherpatternsapproachingandnotedtheeffecttheyhaveonthelandscapearoundusMostimportantlyhowevertheviewofthevastvelvetyhillsservesasadailyreminderofourfantasticbeef-farmingheritageintheUKBritainrsquosfertilepasturesproducesomeofthebestbeefintheworldand

BritainrsquosfertilepasturesproducesomeofthebestbeefintheworldandhaveledtothedevelopmentofsomesuperbcattlebreedsAttherestaurantweuseHerefordCrossorCharolaisbeefthathasbeenagedfor28ndash35daysTheadvantagesofageingaretwofoldasthemeathangsmoistureevaporatesfromitwhichmeansagreaterintensityofflavourisachievedatthesametimethetoughconnectivetissuegraduallybreaksdownresultinginmoretendermeatWewouldrecommendseekingoutbeefthathasbeenhungforatleast28daysThiskindofmeatisamagnificenttestamenttoBritishbeeffarmingYet

itsrecenthistoryhasbeentroubledItsreputationsufferedgreatlyasaconsequenceoftheBSEcrisisinthelatetwentiethcenturyanditwassometimebeforeitscredibilitywasrestoredIronicallyitwasoftensmallfamily-runfarmsthatsufferedfinanciallyasaresultdespitethefactthatsuchfarmersrsquoclosedherdsoftraditionalgrass-fedbeefbreedsweretheonesthatweremostlikelytobefreeofthediseaseOncethisfactbecamewidelyknownitledtothepromotionofsmall-scalebeeffarmingwhichproducedbeefofhighqualityOursearchforabutcherwhosharedourcommitmenttosustainablefood

productionledustoThornburyfarmersrsquomarketandScottPowellfromPowellsofOlvestonndashabutcherwhostoodbeforeabannerproudlyproclaimingethicallysourcedmeatsScotthadclearlygonetogreatlengthstofindhissuppliersforbeeflambporkchickenandduckallofwhomhavehighstandardsofanimalhusbandryandexceptionallywellcared-forlivestockTocookthesirloinaccuratelyithelpstohaveadigitalprobendashamodest

investmentthatwillhaveagreatimpactonyourcookingFamiliariseyourselfwiththeguidetoroastingbeefonherebeforeyoustartthisrecipeThebeefwilltakeabout4hoursfromleavingthefridgetoservingDonrsquotworryifitisreadybeforethesidedishesndashbetterthatitiswellrestedthanrushedtothetableItcanbeheldinaverylowovenalongsidewarmingplatesafterbastingforaslongasrequiredThisrelaxedapproachmarksoutSundayasanidealtimetocatchupandmullovertheweekwithfamilyandfriends

SERVES8

2kgbeefsirloinpreferablyagedfor28ndash35days3tbspmustardpowder

plainflourfordusting3tbsprapeseedoil400gblackcabbage(cavolonero)kaleorscarletborecolestalksremovedcutinto2cmstrips

1tbspcidervinegaradoublequantityofBordelaiseSauce(seehere)ValorPotatoMash(seehere)toserveflakyseasalt

FORTHETRUFFLECAULIFLOWER

1cauliflower1tspsmokedsalt4tbspdoublecreamtruffleoilpreferablyEnglish(seehere)totaste

Takethesirloinoutofthefridge2hoursbeforecookingtobringittoroomtemperatureRemoveanystringandcoveritwithateatowel

Dividethecauliflowerinto25cmfloretsandslicethestemPlaceinasteamerbasketandsteamoveralowheatfor35minutesuntilverysoftTransferthecauliflowertoablenderorfoodprocessorwiththesmokedsaltandblitzacoupleoftimesThenwiththemachinerunningpourinaslowdrizzleofdoublecreamuntilitbeginstocombineOnceitstartstomovearoundtheblenderaddalightsplashoftruffleoilndashsomewhereintheregionof1ndash2teaspoonsTastethemixtureanddecideifyouwantmoresaltortruffleoilScrapedownthesidestocatchanyremainingunblendedpiecesandblendoncemoreIfyouwantaverysmoothfinishpassthemixturethroughafinesieveSetaside

Heattheovento200degCGasMark6Getalargeheavy-basedfryingpanveryhotItrsquosimportantthatthebeefbrownsquicklysomakesurethepanispracticallyhummingDustthesirloinonallsideswiththemustardpowderthenwithflourrubbingitintomaketheoutsidedry(donrsquotaddanysaltatthisstage)LiftthejointupandgiveitafewpercussiveslapstoknockoffanyexcessflourCarefullyadd2tablespoonsoftherapeseedoiltothehotpanandusingacarvingforkgentlylowerthebeefintoitItwillcolour

quicklyoverthisheatsoturnitregularlyuntilbrownedonallsidesTransfertoaroastingtrayandplaceintheovenDecidetowhatdegreeyouwouldlikethemeatcooked(seetheboxonhererememberingthatthetemperaturesshownaretheonesthemeatshouldreachafterresting)Roastfor25minutesthentakethejointoutforitsfirsttemperaturetestInsertadigitalprobeintothesideyouwouldcarvefromatwhicheverendisthickestasclosetothecentreofthecrosssectionaspossibleandcheckthetemperatureProbeatacouplemorepointstheaimbeingtofindthelowesttemperaturereadinginthejointThetemperatureislikelytomeasureinthemidtwentiesinwhichcaseitcangobackintheovenfor10minutesbeforetestingagainAsitnearsyourchosentemperaturereturnittotheovenprobingat5-minuteintervalsuntilthecorrecttemperatureisreachedWecookourbeeftoaninnercoretemperatureof37degCandwhenitisoutoftheovenwewatchthecarry-overeffectonthethermometerasitclimbsto50degCPerfectlyrareRestingfor30minutesisessentialtofinishingthebeefproperlyStraightafteritcomesoutoftheoventhefibreswillcontractandjuiceswillleavethemeatThenastheystopcontractingitwillreabsorbthejuicesThiswindowprovidesagreatopportunitytoseasonApplyuptoatablespoonofflakyseasaltliberallytothejointOverthenext10ndash30minutesregularlybastethemeatbyspooningthejuicesbackoveritThesaltwilldissolvefromthesurfaceandthepanjuiceswillberenderedtoosaltyforuseelsewherebutasthebeefabsorbssomeofthissaltitwillbeseasonedtoperfectionAfterthesirloinhasbeenbastedandresteditcanbereturnedtoanovensetat50degCwhereitwilllsquoholdrsquoperfectlytillyouarereadytocarveitndashatechniqueusedinmanyprofessionalkitchens

Heattheremainingrapeseedoilinapanaddthecabbageandcookoveramediumheatfor30ndash45secondsAddthecidervinegarletitsteamoffintheheatofthepanthenseasonwithsaltandtransfertoawarmservingdish

Reheatthecauliflowerpureacuteecarvethebeefandservewiththebordelaisesaucemashandcabbage

AGEINGBEEF

Whenabeeforbuffalocarcassisagedthemeataswholejointsisheldbetween1and3degCEnzymesinmusclebreakproteins

intosavouryaminoacidsandthisiswhereflavourdevelopsfrom(seeHaroldMcGeeOnFoodandCooking)Thisprocesswonrsquotbenoticeableuntilafter20daysandcontinuesforafurther15daysFurtheractionoffungalmicrobesontheexteriorcomplementsthisprocessTheydonrsquotcausespoilageinthetruesenseandin

anycasethemeatistrimmedofitscrustasamatterofcoursebythebutcherattheendofthematuringAsupermarketwouldmostlikelycutandpackagemeatafteronlyfourdaysofstoringinoxygen-lessconditionsThesupermarketbenefitsfromhaving

nolossinweightthatadry-ageingprocesswouldeffectSearchoutanindependentproducerofBritishgrass-fedbeefatafarmersrsquomarkettalktohimorherandaskaboutthisprocess

UponknowingalittlemoreabouttheirartisanskillsandprideintheirproductyouaremuchmorelikelytocomeawaywithameltinglytenderandflavoursomecutofmeatAsBritainistheonlycountryintheworldtobananimalderivativesinfeedthebeefisnowthesafesttheworldoversomethingtosupportandtrulygetbehindOnceyouhaveboughtthebestpossiblepiece

ofmeatthekitchenprocessissimpletosaytheleast

ROASTINGBEEF

RoastingbeeftoperfectionrequiresanaccuratethermometerTherearemanyotherwaysofjudgingwhenthebeefisatthecorrectstageoflsquodonenessrsquobutathermometerisundoubtedlythemosteffectivewaytoachievethesameresulteverytimeOvensoperateatdifferenttemperatureswiththeirownuniquecoldspotsandhotspotsHavingacorrectlycalibratedthermometertomeasuretheinternaltemperatureofthemeatnegatesalltheguessworkForourrareroastsirloinwhichweservemostSundaysinthe

restaurantthecutisroastedtoaninternaltemperaturematching

restaurantthecutisroastedtoaninternaltemperaturematchingthatofourbodiesThemeatisthentakenoutoftheovenandallowedtorestforaminimumof30minutesbeforeitisservedMeatissubjecttoaphenomenonknownaslsquocarry-overcookingrsquoEssentiallythismeansthatevenafterthemeathasbeenremovedfromtheoventheinternaltemperaturewillcontinuetoriseagoodfewdegreesThethickerthepieceofmeatthemoreheatitwillretainandthehigheritwillclimbSirloinandotherlargecutsusuallyclimbaround10ndash13degCThechartbelowshowsthetemperaturethemeatshouldreachafterresting

Whencookingsteaksremovethemfromtheheatwhentheyareroughly5degCbelowthetemperatureyouwanttoreachforribsofbeef5ndash10degCWewouldneverrecommendtakingbeefabove60degCasitbecomesalmostasmuchofatasktoeatascoldMidgetGemsAndalotlessenjoyabletoo

AlmondPearCardamomandChocolateCake

WehaveusedmanyfruitsinthedevelopmentofthisdessertandalthoughitworkswellallyearroundwecansafelysaythatitisbestwithpearsespeciallyifyoucangetthemwhentheyareperfectlyripePearstendtobelessacidicthanapplesandwefindtheireleganthoneyedfragrancehardtoresistItwasinspiredbytheclassiccombinationofpearandalmondexemplified

inthetraditionalfrangipanendashasumptuouspastemadefromground

inthetraditionalfrangipanendashasumptuouspastemadefromgroundalmondsItevolvedintoacosmopolitanWestCountryaffairwhenwewereaskedtodesigncakestosuitthemenuoftheThaliCafeacuteanindependentIndianchainbasedinBristolTheadditionoffloral-scentedcardamomseemedinevitableThecakewastheperfectmatchforallthosewonderfulspicesusedinIndiancookingIthasnowbecomeoneofthemostpopularitemsatTheEthicureanwhethersoldfromthecakecounterorservedasawarmdessertAboveallthiscakehaswonadevotedfollowingbecausewekeepitglutenfreeGluten-freecakesaresometimesmalignedforbeingdryandcrumblybutthisofferingtrouncesthatpreconceptionWeencourageyoutotryitwarmwithadecentamountofcreamThechocolatewillmeltwithinandthefrangipanewillbetransformedintoadevastatinglymoistensemble

315gsaltedbutteratroomtemperature315gcastersugarplusalittleextrafordusting5eggslightlybeaten315ggroundalmonds50ggluten-freeplainflour(orordinaryplainflour)1tbspgroundcardamom1ripepear70gdarkchocolate(weuseOriginalBeansCruVirungachocolatebutanygood70percentcocoasolidchocolatewillwork)

Heattheovento160degCGasMark3Linethebaseandsidesofa23cmspringformcaketinwithnon-stickbakingpaper

Usingafreestandingelectricmixerfittedwiththepaddleattachmentbeatthebutterandsugartogetherfor10ndash15minutesuntilpaleandincreasedinvolumeGraduallypourinthebeateneggswhilethemixercontinuestoturnAddallthedryingredientsandmixonslowuntiljustcombinedRemovethebowlfromthemachineandfoldthemixtureafewtimeswithaspatulatoensureitiswellmixedTurnitintothetinlevelthetopslightlythenplaceinthecentreoftheovenandbakefor20minutesInthemeantimethinlyslicethepearremovingthecoreandbreakthechocolateintopiecesRemovethecakecarefullyfromtheovenItwillbeliquidwithonlyatouchofcolourPressthechocolatepiecesverticallyintothemixacrosstheentirecakeLaythepearslicesinapatternofyourchoosingon

acrosstheentirecakeLaythepearslicesinapatternofyourchoosingontopDustthemwithalittlecastersugartoaidcaramelisationandthengentlyreturnthecaketotheovenCookfor40minuteslongerturningthecakearoundhalfwaythroughtoensureitbakesevenlyIfyouhaveadigitalprobeagoodwaytoensurethatthecakeisdonetoperfectionistocheckthetemperatureinthecentreitshouldbe94degCOtherwiseinsertaskewerandcheckthatitcomesoutcleanLeavethecaketocoolforatleast20minutesbeforeserving

daggerThenamefrangipane(astheenlighteningLarousseGastronomiquetellsus)originatesfromasixteenthcenturyperfumerandnoblemantheMarquisMuzioFrangipaniInhisvastrepertoireofperfumeshehadaparticularlymemorableonebasedonbitteralmondswhichwasspecificallyusedforscentingglovesThescentwassopleasantthatitledprominentParisianchefstodesignanalmond-basedpasteintheMarquisrsquosname

daggerItseemsthatourloveforpearswassharedbyRomansandGreeksalikePearswereeatenindiversewaysandevenmadeintoanalcoholicdrinkDuringmedievaltimespearswouldonlybeeatenafterdinnerandtheyweregenerallyroastedoreatenwithsugarfennelseedsoraniseedTheytendedtobeeateninenormousquantitiesattimesofglutswhichinevitablyledtoupsetstomachsandtheincorrectassumptionthattheywereariskyfruittoeatrawThesayinglsquorawpearsapoisonbakedamedicinebersquoencapsulatesthissentimentperfectlyThepracticeofcookingpearswithsugarandspicescontinuedwelluntiltheseventeenthcentury

SeaBuckthornSorbetwithAppleandVanillaPureacuteeToffeeAppleandCaramelLemonBalm

SeabuckthornhasbeenusedforcenturiesinEuropeandAsiabothasfoodandformedicinalpurposesAsitsnamesuggestsitisahardythornybushwhichmightbewhyithasbeenforgottenaboutinrecenttimesharvestingitisnottheeasiestoftasksThisdidnotdetertheAncientGreekswhousedtofeedittotheirhorsestopromoteweightgainandglossycoatsndashhenceitsLatinnameHippophaemeaninglsquoshinyhorsersquoItrsquosdefinitelyworthlookingoutfortheberriesonseasideforagingtripsThedensebushesareeasytospotastheberriesareacheerfulbrightyellow-orangeInlinewithgoodforagingetiquettetrytoresisttheurgetocutthewholespikybranchinordertogaineasieraccesstothefruitItwilldamagetheplantandminimisethechanceofafutureharvestInsteadthinkoftheintrepidGreeksontheirshinyhorsesandarmyourselfwithathickpairofglovesandtoughclothingsoyoucanharvestinpeaceTheberriesoftenstayonthehedgewellintothewinterBewareoftheir

highacidityitcertainlymakesforaninterestinggameofwhocanpullthefunniestfaceasyoueatthemWetemperthistartnessbymakingtheberriesintoasyrupysorbetTheappleandvanillapureacuteesoftenstheirastringencyevenfurtherandprovidesasweetvelvetybasetodipyourminitoffeeapplesintoWecouldnotresistincludingtoffeeapplesTheyaretheepitomeof

autumnconjuringupthoughtsofwoodlandfloorscarpetedingoldenleavesandambersparksaroundabonfireTheseminiatureversionsareamorerefinedtreatthanthetraditionalchildhoodones

SERVES6

FORTHESEABUCKTHORNSORBET

700ndash800gseabuckthornberries250gfructose(fruitsugar)50gglucosepowder

FORTHEAPPLEANDVANILLAPUREacuteE

frac14vanillapod250gdessertapplespeeledcoredandcutintocubes

250gdessertapplespeeledcoredandcutintocubes5tbspcastersugar

FORTHETOFFEEAPPLES

175mlapplejuice100gcastersugar2BlenheimOrangeapples(orBramleyapples)4ndash6lemonbalmleaves(ormintleaves)finelyslicedtodecorateafewshardsofsaltcaramel(seehere)togarnish(optional)

Firstmakethesorbetpasstheseabuckthornberriesthroughajuiceextractorandmeasurethejuiceyouwillneed400mlPutthefructoseandglucoseinasaucepanadd330mlwaterandbringtoagentlesimmerLeavetocoolandthenstirintheseabuckthornjuicePassthroughafinesieveandleaveinthefridgeforatleast2hoursThisallowstheproteinsinthemixturetohydratefullywhichimprovesthewhippingqualitiesofthesorbetandmakesitsmootherFreezeinanice-creammachineaccordingtothemanufacturerrsquosinstructionsWhenthemixtureisalmostfrozenblitzwithastickblenderfor15ndash30secondsthenreturntothemachineandcontinuetochurnDecantintoanairtightcontainerandfreezeforatleast2hoursbeforeserving

FortheappleandvanillapureacuteeslitopenthevanillapodandscrapeouttheseedsPuttheseedsandpodinasaucepanwiththeapplessugarand50mlwaterandplaceoveramediumheatBringtoasimmerandcookfor30minutesstirringoftenTransfertoablenderremovingthevanillapodandblitztoapureacuteePassthroughafinesieveandsetasideAllowtocoolandthenchill

TomakethetoffeeapplespourtheapplejuiceintoasaucepanandbringtoagentlesimmerRemovefromtheheatandkeepwarmUsethesugartomakeacaramelfollowingtheinstructionsforSaltCaramelonherebutomittingthesaltLetitreachadeepevengoldcolourtheninsteadoftippingitontoasiliconematremovefromtheheatandslowlyaddtheapplejuiceBecarefulasthecaramelwillbubblerapidlywhenthejuiceispouredinOnceallthejuicehasbeenaddedthecaramelwillprobablysolidifyPlaceoveralowheatandcookstirringuntilithasmeltedintothe

applejuiceSimmeruntilithasreducedtoaloosesyrupyconsistencyRemovefromtheheatandleavetocool

Usingamelonballerscoopout18ndash24ballsofapplekeepingtheskinonPuttheballsinasaucepanjustlargeenoughtoholdtheminasinglelayerthenaddenoughofthecaramelapplesyruptoreachhalfwayupthemPlaceonahighheatandcookturningtheappleballsregularlyuntilthesyruphasthickenedenoughtocoatthemRemovefromtheheatandsetasideinawarmplaceuntilneeded

ToservespoonsomeapplepureacuteeontoeachplatethenaddthetoffeeappleballsdressedwithalittleextrasyrupDecoratewiththelemonbalmandsaltcaramelshards(ifusing)andplaceascoopofsorbetoneachplate

BeetrootAppleandCobnutCrumblewithRoastedWhiteChocolateSpoom

GiventhatwehavesomanyapplevarietiesintheWalledGardenwecouldnotresistcreatingaversionoftheubiquitouscrumbleItisafterallthequintessentialBritishpuddingandonethatcanbeenhancedgreatlybythechoiceofingredientsusedItsbeautyliesnotonlyinitssimplicitybutalsoinitsversatilitySurprisinglycrumblesdidnrsquotbecomepopularuntiltheSecondWorldWarwhentheywereawayofekingoutsugarflourandbutterrationstomakeapuddingUsingbeetrootmightseemslightlyriskybutwehaveoptedforthesweetwhite-fleshedAlbinaIcebeetrootwhichgivesasubtlecolourpaletteIfyoucangetRibstonPippinapplestheyoffertheperfectcombinationofpearmaltandpeachflavoursandalsohaveasubtlechestnut-likeflavourthatcomplementsthecobnutsWeopttoturntheappleandbeetrootoutontoacrispseparatelybakedcrumbleandhaveborrowedthetarteTatinideaofmakingacarameltotopthedishSoinessencethisisanupside-downcrumbleTheadditionofanuttyelementisoptionalbutyouwillfindthatitimprovesthetextureofthetoppingbymakingitcrunchierndashthehallmarkofagoodcrumbleinourviewItisofcoursepossibletosubstitutehazelnutsforthecobnutsbutwewouldurgeyoutoheadoutdoorsandfindyournearestcobnuttreeThisissuchagreatnativenutwithanamazinghistory(seehere)

SERVES6ndash8

350gAlbinaIcebeetroot(orsubstitutegoldenbeetrootChioggiaorredvarietiesforaverydifferentcolourfinish)

500gRibstonPippinapples(orCoxrsquosOrangePippins)RoastedWhiteChocolateSpoom(seehere)toserve

FORTHECRUMBLE

100gcobnuts260gplainflour165gdemerarasugar165gunsaltedbutteratroomtemperaturecutintocubesfrac12tspgroundcinnamon

FORTHEVANILLAANDCIDERBRANDYCARAMEL

125gcastersugar100mlagedciderbrandy1vanillapod50gunsaltedbutteratroomtemperaturecutintosmallcubes

FirstmakethecrumbleHeattheovento180degCGasMark4PutthenutsinafoodprocessorandblitzforasecondortwountiltheyarecoarselychoppedSiftintheflouraddthesugarandturnontheprocessoragainSlowlyaddpiecesofbutterthroughthefoodtubeuntilthemixtureresemblesbreadcrumbs(Youcandothisallbyhandifyoupreferrubbingthebutterintothedryingredientswithyourfingertips)Scatterthemixtureintoa24cmnon-stickovenprooffryingpanwithoutpressingitdownBakefor25minutesoruntilgoldenbrownandcrispCookingthecrumbleseparatelylikethismeansitretainsitscrunchagainstthemoistappleRemovefromtheovenandcoolslightlythenturnitoutontoaservingplatebyplacingtheplateoverthepanandcarefullyflippingthembothoverHopefullyitwillcomeoutcleanandunbrokenSetasideforlaterCleanoutthepannowreadyformakingthecarameltop

WashthebeetrootwelltrimmingawaythestemsthenslicethemfinelyfromtoptobottomThiswillbeeasierwithamandolinethoughentirelypossiblewithacalmsteadyhandandasharpknifeCoretheapplesandslicefinelyintodiscs

Putthesugarandciderbrandyintothenon-stickfryingpanSlitthevanillapoddownitslengthscrapetheseedsintothepanandaddthepodhalvesaswellSetthepanoveramediumheatandbringtotheboilstirringoccasionallytodissolvethesugarTheliquidmayigniteasthealcoholcooksoffContinuetocookwithoutstirringbutkeepingacloseeyeonituntilitturnsalightcaramelcoloursimilartothatofdemerarasugarAssoonasthisoccursremovethepanfromtheheatLaytheslicesofbeetrootinthecarameltocoverthebaseofthepanthenaddalternatelayersofappleandbeetrootDotthebutteroverthetopandplaceintheovenCheckitafter35minutesitisreadywhenthemoisturehasbeencookedoutandthereisaclearlayerofdeepcaramelcolouraroundtheedgesThiscouldtakeuptoanhourdependingonthemoisturecontentoftheapplesandbeetrootsokeepcheckingat10-minuteintervalsWhenitisreadyremovefromtheoven

checkingat10-minuteintervalsWhenitisreadyremovefromtheovenandleavefor15ndash20minutesuntilthepanhandleiscoolenoughtoholdSlidethecrumbleoffitsplateontotheapplePuttheplatefacedownontothisthenflopthewholethingovertakingcaretoholdtheplatesteadytooTheapplemixtureshouldcomefreefromthepanwithagentleshakegoslowlyandgravityshouldsufficeServewiththeroastedwhitechocolatespoom

daggerTheappleswehavechosenforthisdishareRibstonPippinThemid-seasonapplevarietygaineditsnamefromRibstonHallinYorkshirewhereitisbelievedtohavegrowninthe18thcenturyThiswasanotherpopularvarietyintheVictorianeraandwasbelievedtobeoneoftheparentsofCoxrsquosOrangePippin

daggerBeetrootwasafavouritesweetenerandcolouringagentoftheVictoriansitwasoftenusedinsaladsandsoupsVictorianfoodparticularlyinnoblehouseswasallaboutcreatingthemoststunningtheatricaleffectanditseemsthatthedramaticcolourprovidedbythisrootvegetablewasafavouriteatthedinnertable

Simplesyrupsforsorbetsandspooms

Simplesyrupsforsorbetsandspooms

SugarsyrupsareanessentialpartofmakingsorbetsspoomsandicecreamsForallsorbetandspoomrecipesweuseinthisbookweusea50percentsugarsyrupalsoknownas5050syrupDependingonitsuseweeitherusesucrose(commontablesugar)or

fructose(fruitsugar)(formoreonfructoseseehere)Forfruitypreparationswewillgenerallyalwaysusethe5050fructosesyrupIfyouareeverunsurerefertotherecipethatyouaremaking

5050COMMONSYRUP

500gcastersugar500gwater

5050FRUCTOSESYRUP

500gfructosesugar500gwater

Thismethodappliestobothsyrups

CombinethesugarandwaterinamediumsaucepanPlaceonamedium-highheatandbringtoasimmerStirtoensureallthesugarhasdissolvedbeforepouringintoabowlplacedinanicebathAllowtochilltofridgetemperaturebeforedecantingintoatupperwarecontainerandstoringinthefridgeuntilneeded

YoumayalsocoolthesyrupbypouringitintoaroastingtraywithalargesurfaceareaLiquidswithlargesurfaceareascooldownmuchmorequickly

Spoom

ThenamelsquospoomrsquocomesfromtheItalianwordspumemeaningfoamSpoomresemblesasmoothairysorbetItisaforgottendessertnowadaysbutitusedtobeverypopularinEnglandItwasmadewithalightersyrupthan

anormalsorbetandonewouldmixinItalianmeringueforgoodmeasureItwascommonlysoldinatallglasssothatyoucouldseethelayersandtextureswithinSpoomissuchaversatiledessertthatitisastonishingthatweeverletitgooffourculinaryradarInordertorevivethespoomwehavecomeupwithanautumnalandasummeryoptionReadonandspoomaway

RoastedWhiteChocolateSpoom

SERVES4ndash6

350gwhitechocolate180gglucosesyrup80gItalianMeringue(seehere)

Preheattheovento110degCGasMarkfrac14BreakupthechocolateintoanovenproofdishandplaceintheovenLeavefor10minutesbeforestirringwithaspatulaReturntotheovenstirringevery5minutesuntilthechocolatehastakenonalightndashmediumbrowncolour(likeCaramac)Thisusuallytakes40ndash60minutesDuringthisprocessthechocolatewillgothroughseveralstageshardmeltedchalkyandgrainybeforebecomingcompletelysmoothDonrsquotpanicThisisnormalTakecarewhenremovingitfromtheovenasitrsquosincrediblyhotDecantintoaplasticcontainerandleavetocoolOncecoldandsolidifiedchoproughlyintosmallpiecesandplaceinamixingbowl

Inasaucepancombinetheglucosesyrupwith850gofcoldwaterPlaceoveramediumheatandbringtoaverygentlesimmerPourthesimmeringliquidoverthechoppedchocolateStirforacoupleofminutesbeforeblendingwithastickblender(orpouringintoablender)FoldintheItalianmeringue

Spoonthechocolatemixtureintoaplasticcontainerandrefrigerateforatleast2hours(TherefrigerationprocessallowstheproteinspresentinthespoomtohydratefullyThiswillinturnimproveitswhippingqualitiesallowingmoreairtobeincorporatedandresultinasmootherproduct)Removefromthefridgeandstrainthroughafine-meshsieve

Twentyminutesbeforeyouarereadytochurnswitchonyourice-cream

Twentyminutesbeforeyouarereadytochurnswitchonyourice-creammachineAddthespoomtotheice-creammachineWhenthemachinebeginstolabourremovethebowlandblitzthemixturewithastickblender(orspoonintoablender)for15ndash30secondsReturnthemixturetotheice-creammachineandchurnforafurther2ndash3minutesDecantintoanairtightliddedplasticcontainerandfreezeforatleast2hoursbeforeserving

CherrySpoom

SERVES4ndash6

500gpittedcherriesstonesreserved(seeNotebelow)150g5050FructoseSyrup(seehere)35gItalianMeringue(seehere)

Placethecherriesinablenderandblitzonfullspeedfor12minutesPassthroughachinoisorfine-meshsieveintoamixingbowltoremoveanyexcesssolids

AddthesyruptothecherriesmixingwellWhiskintheItalianmeringueuntilfullyincorporated

Spoonthecherrymixtureintoaplasticcontainerandrefrigerateforaminimumof2hours(TherefrigerationprocessallowstheproteinspresentinthespoomtohydratefullyThiswillinturnimproveitswhippingqualitiesallowingmoreairtobeincorporatedandresultinasmootherproduct)Removefromthefridgeandstrainthroughafine-meshsieve

Twentyminutesbeforeyouarereadytochurnswitchonyourice-creammachine(itneedstobeverycoldbeforeusesoastoformicecrystalsasquicklyaspossiblemakingforasmootherfinish)Addthespoomtotheice-creammachineWhenthemachinebeginstolabourremovethebowlandblitzthemixturewithastickblender(orspoonintoablender)forabout15ndash30secondsReturnthemixturetotheice-creammachineandchurnforafurther2ndash3minutesDecantintoanairtightliddedplasticcontainerandfreezeforatleast2hoursbeforeserving

NOTEasanoptionalstepforthisrecipewrapthereservedcherrystonesinateatowelandbashthemwitharollingpintocrushthemPlacethecrushedstonesinasaucepanalongwiththefructosesyrupBringthesyruptotheboilandthentakeofftheheatAllowtocooltoroomtemperatureandthenplacein

thefridgeuntilthoroughlycoldStrainthroughachinoisorfine-meshsievetoextractthestonesbeforecontinuingwiththesamemethodasaboveThiswilladdanextracomplexitytothespooncontributinganever-so-slightlybitteralmondtasteDelightful

ItalianMeringue

ItalianmeringuesareathingofbeautyTheirthickunctuoustextureisenoughtomakeagrownmanregresstoachildlikestatescrapingeverylasttinymorseloutofthebowlandhungrilylickingthespoonAmeringueisatypeoffoammadefromwhiskingeggwhitesandthen

addingsugarItistheeggwhitesthatcreatethefoamasthewhiteiswhiskedtheproteinswhichareinatangledformintheirnaturalstatebegintounravelintostrandsThesestrandstheninteractwithoneanotherandasairisincorporatedthroughwhiskingtheywraparoundtheairbubblesandtrapitandthusafoamiscreatedThemeringuemostofusmakeathomeisanuncookedmeringueThesearenotconsideredsafetoeatintheirrawstatesimplybecausetemperaturehasnotbeenappliedtokillanybacteriapresentUsuallythesemeringuesareputintotheoventocrispupandformpavlovasorgivetherisetosouffleacutesIfleftuncookedarawmeringuewilleventuallydeflateastheraworlsquosoftrsquoproteinsintheeggarenolongerabletoretaintheairbubblesItalianmeringuesdifferfromthecommonmeringuebecauseastheeggs

arewhiskedtothecorrectconsistencyboilingsugarispouredinThisboilingsugarcookstheeggwhiterenderingitsafetoeatbutinterestingly

asthehotsugarcookstheeggwhitesthelsquosoftrsquoproteinscoagulatetrappingairalmostinstantlyCoagulatedproteinsaresetandareabletoholdontotrappedairmuchmoreeffectivelythanrawproteinsThesearetwogoodreasonsweuseItalianmeringueitispasteurisedandfarmorestablethananyothermeringueItalianmeringuecanbeusedtomakecrispmeringuesandawholehostofotherdessertsWeuseitforcreatingourspooms(seehere)Italianmeringuesarethemorecomplicatedtomakebutdonrsquotletthisput

youoffWithalittlepracticeyouwillhoneamethodthatworksforyouandyourequipmentandyouwillbeabletomakeaperfectmeringueeverytime

320gcastersugar150geggwhites

Placethesugarand100gofcoldwaterinasmallsaucepanPlaceonamediumheatandbringtotheboilAsthesyrupbeginstoboilincreasetheheattomedium-highIfyouhaveajamthermometerthenplaceitinthesyrupIfyouhaveaninstareadthermometerthenperiodicallycheckthetemperaturendashyouneedittoreach110degC(seebelow)beforeyoutacklethenextstepHaveasmallbowlofwaterandasiliconepastrybrushatthereadyAsthesugarbeginstoboilareaswillmostlikelycrystallisearoundtheedgeofthepanBrushtheseawaywiththewetpastrybrushtopreventtheentiresyrupfromcrystallisingDonotstirthesyrup

AddtheeggwhitestoameticulouslycleanmixingbowlMakesurethesugarhasreached110degCbeforeyoustarttowhisktheeggwhites(seeboxopposite)WhisktheeggwhitesuntiltheyformstiffpeaksWhenthesugarreaches121degCandthewhitesareatthestiffpeakstageslowlypourinthesugarsyrupinathinsteadystreamdowntheedgeofthemixingbowlwhilewhiskingatfullspeedOnceallthesyrupisaddedcontinuetowhiskuntilthemeringuereturnstoroomtemperatureThisshouldtakeabout15ndash20minutesTimespentonthisismostdefinitelyworthitsobepatient(AgreatwayofentertainingyourselfthroughtasksthatrequirecontinuousattentionistotakenoteofthecharacteristicsofthecontentsofthepanormixingbowlObservinghowtheyflowtheirshinetextureorsmellHowtheyslowlychangevicositycolourandaromaNoticinglittlethingslike

thatmaysoundalittleoddbutwhenyoulookcloselyyoursquollseehowfascinatingitcanbe)

Ifyouwanttomakeindividualmeringuespreheattheovento60degC(orthelowestpossiblegassetting)LineabakingsheetwithgreaseproofpaperPlacegeneroustablespoonsofthemeringuemixtureabout5cmapartonthebakingsheetCookintheovenfor3ndash5hoursuntiltheoutsideofthemeringueformsafairlythicksoftskinAtthispointswitchofftheovenandleavetocoolforacoupleofhours

Ifmakingthemeringueforthespoomrecipesonherethenwewouldrecommendeithermakingahalfbatchorensuringthatyoutrybothrecipesthenfreezethem

DIFFICULTYOFTIMING

ThisisthedifficultstageofmakingItalianmeringuegettingthetimingrightYouwanttheeggstobeatthestiffpeakstageasthesugarhits121degCIfyouhaveanelectrichandwhiskthenstartingtowhisktheeggwhitesat105degCwillprobablybeaboutrightIfyouhaveaKitchenaiditwillwhiskthewhitesfarquickerthanahandwhisksostartitafewdegreeslater(try108ndash110degC)ThereareafewthingsyoucandotocontrolthemixturehavinganicebathreadyisausefultipIfthesugarreaches121degCbeforetheeggwhitesareatstiffpeakstagethendropthebaseofthesugarpanintotheicebathThiswillstopthesugarfromcontinuingtocookandthesugarwillremainliquidforyoutopourintotheeggwhitesatthecorrectstageWithallthingsinthekitchennothingbeatsabitofrepetitionandpracticeFromrepeatingthesamerecipesyoulearnthesubtlenuancesofeachingredientandhowitrespondstowhatyoudotoitItwillquicklybecomesecondnature

THECHEESEBOARD

ThereisnodoubtthatBritishartisancheesemakingisundergoingarevivalAspartofadesiretoreconnectwiththephysicalprocessofmakingfoodwewanttotraceourcheesesfromsourcetotableTherichhistoryofBritishcheesealongwiththeintricatespecificsofourregionalrecipesissomethingtoberediscoveredanddevelopedThetechniquesemployedbyartisancheesemakerstodayareforthelargepartthesameasthoseusedsincetimeimmemorialHavingdistinctivestylesofcheesesthroughoutthecountryisbrillianttastelessuniformityisnotAcheesemakershouldhaveadirectlinkwithhisorhermilksupplyInthe

pasttheherdandthedairywouldhavebeenonthesamefarmndashandinsomecasestheystillareThequalityoftheproductisdueinparttothecommunicationbetweenthecheesemakerandthepersonwholooksaftertheherdRegionalorterritorialcheesesarespecifictothelandscapeinwhichtheyaremadeandthegeographicalpositionwilldeterminethecharacterofthepastureonwhichtheanimalsfeedWehavebeenluckyenoughtohostCheeseSchoolatTheEthicurean

OrganisedbyJessTrethowanandFionaBeckettittakesplaceinatentwithwonkytableshurricanelanternsandenoughexpertstosinkabattleshipTherearetalksbycheesemakersbrewersbakersanddrinksexpertsandwefounditaninvaluablewayoflearninghowandwhycertaincheesesworkwithparticularflavoursanddrinksItalsohelpedusunderstandhowthecheesemakingprocessisaffectedbytheseasonsandthedietoftheherdAcelebrationofthedistinctivecharacterofBritishcheesemakingitisachancetoshareanecdotesandknowledgeThewordartisansometimescomesunderfireforitsassociationwith

premiumorhigher-endbutthecostofartisanfoodsisindicativeofthetimeeffortresearchandpassionthatgointocreatingthebestpossibleproductEnsuringthatnotonepersoninthechainoffinancialexchangeslosesoutistheresponsibilityofanybusinessownerAbusinessthatcangrowmakeorbrewagoodproductandturnaprofitwithoutexploitinganotherpersoncontributestoourlocaleconomyinthebestpossiblewayThemoreweinteractwiththepeoplewhoproduceourfoodandwiththelandfromwhichitcomesthemorewecanenjoytheculturalhistoryofourlocalarea

AtTheEthicureanweenjoychoosingtherightpairingforcheeseintheformofpreservesandotheraccompanimentsOurstaplesareHawthornJelly(seehere)quincecheese(knowntotheSpanishasmembrillo)celerysaltpicklesandDarkPlumChutney(seehere)WhenthefigtreedecidestofruitwewilloftenservethefigsalongsidefreshcurdcheesesDuringtheautumnourfavouriteappletoeatwithcheeseisAshmeadrsquosKernelacidicandsweetlikeapeardropOppositearethreeofourfavouritepairingsThekeyistomakesurethe

cheeseisnotoverpoweredbyitsaccompanimentandviceversaWefindpickingoutsingleflavoursinthefoodanddrinkthataresimilarcanleadtoaharmoniousmatchFinallybearinmindthatsaltyfoodscanbenefitfrombeingpairedwithanaccompanimentthatissweetinsomeway

daggerInFoodinEnglandDorothyHartleyemotionallyrecallsthereasonsforthedeclineofBritishcheesebeforetherevivalofthelatetwentiethcenturyItappearsthatmotorisedtransportheraldedtheendoflocalisedcheesemakingasmilkwasthendeliveredtolarge-scalefactoriesFollowingfoodrationinginboththeFirstandSecondWorldWarsthegovernmentonlyallowedhardcheesetobemadeinordertoconserveresourcesndashcheeserationingcontinueduntil1954ThishadaprofoundeffectonBritishcheeseandaccountsfortheubiquityofflavourlessvacuum-packedblocksofvaryingcolourIn1989theMinistryofAgriculturewereonthevergeofbanningtheuseofrawmilkincheesemakingluckilytheywerenotsuccessfulItislittlewonderthatithastakenuntilnowforourartisancheesemakerstobuildmomentumandtheyarecertainlygainingpace

MARMALADEVODKAWITHDORSETBLUEVINNYANDCELERYSALT

ChaseDistillerymakesamarmaladevodkaThisorange-huedtippleismadebymarinatingtheirownsingle-estatevodkadistilledinHerefordwithSevilleorangemarmaladeThevodkaissweetwiththeunmistakablearomaoforangescontrastingwellwiththesaltinessofthecheeseDorsetBlueVinnycopeswiththehighalcoholinthisdrinkinmuchthesamewayasthetraditionalportandStiltoncombinationCeleryandbluecheesearedestinedtobetogetheralittlemoresaltneverdidanyharm

OLDDEMDIKEWITHMEMBRILLOANDPOTHOLERGOLDENALE

ThisisaSomersetversionofManchegoandmembrilloandacompromiseitcertainlyisnotAthinsliverofquincecheesewithsomeofHomewoodCheesesrsquoOldDemdikeisanepiphanyAdelightfuldrinkmatchisanalecalledPotHolerbrewedbyCheddarAlesItisalivelybrewagoldenalethatlikeOldDemdikehasacitrusfruitflavourCheddarAleshavehoppedthisbeerwithablendofEnglishwholehopsThisisaverypleasantmatchindeed

KEENrsquoSCHEDDARWITHSMOKEDCARDAMOMPICKLEDCARROTANDJJJCIDER(JANETrsquoSJUNGLEJUICE)

Wepickledicedrawcarrotincidervinegarcorianderandblackcardamom(seehere)TheaciditycutsrightthroughthisstrongcheeseChooseamedium-drycidersuchasJanetrsquosJungleJuicemadebyWestCroftCidersoitwillbalancetheinherentsalty-sweetnatureofthisunpasteurisedCheddarTheapplearomainboththedrinkandthecidervinegarinthepicklemakeforaclassicpairing

WewouldlovetolistallofthegreatcheesemakersoftheUKHerearejustafewofourfavourites

KEENrsquoSCHEDDAR

UnpasteurisedcowrsquosmilkwithtraditionalanimalrennetMadebytheKeenfamilyonMoorhayesFarmnearWincantonusingatraditionalpintstarterwithyoghurt-likeculturesThecheeseisboundinclothandmaturedforaminimumof10monthssometimesupto18monthsSmoothwithafirmtextureithasalong-lastingflavourthatisacombinationofnutsacidityandearth

OGLESHIELD

UnpasteurisedJerseycowrsquosmilkwithtraditionalanimalrennetMadeinNorthCadburySomersetbyJamieMontgomeryandWayneMitchellAfterbeingrindwashedthecheeseformsastickyorange-colouredrindThetasteissimilartoaracletteanditcooksverywell

DORSETBLUEVINNY

UnpasteurisedcowrsquosmilkwithvegetarianrennetMadeonWoodbridgeFarminDorsetbyMikeDaviesHeuseslsquoleftoverrsquomilkafterthecreamhasbeenskimmedoffforbutter-makingThecheesesarematuredfor3ndash5monthsandhaveasubtleflavourwithacrumblycreamytexture

GORWYDDCAERPHILLY

UnpasteurisedcowrsquosmilkwithtraditionalanimalrennetMadeonGorwyddFarmatLlanddewiBrefiCeredigionbyToddMauganandKimTrethowanThecurdisworkedbyhandandanaturalmouldrindencouragedtodevelopThecheeseiskepttruetotheoriginsoftraditionalCaerphillyasimplefarmhousecheeseeatenyoungorafteralittlematurationIthasaspringycitriclacticcentreoozymushroomycreamundertherindandamustyearthinessintherinditself

SINGLEGLOUCESTER

UnpasteurisedcowrsquosmilkwithvegetarianrennetMadeonStandishParkFarminOxlynchGloucestershirebyJonathanCrumpInthedayswhenallfarmhousesmadecheesethecreamwouldbeskimmedofftheeveningrsquosmilktomakebutterandtheskimmedmilkthatwasleftwasputwiththefollowingmorningrsquosfullmilktomakeSingleGloucestercheeseOurSingleGloucesteristraditionallymaturedandclothbound

KIRKHAMrsquoSLANCASHIRE

UnpasteurisedcowrsquosmilkwithtraditionalanimalrennetMadeonLowerBeesleyFarmnearGoosnarghLancashirebyGrahamKirkhamCurdiscombinedfromthreedaysofcheesemakingndashatechniquethatharksbacktothetraditionofnothavingalargeherdmeaningthecheesemakerwouldneedtoconsolidateafewdaysrsquomilkingVerylittlestarterisusedallowingtheaciditytoriseslowlyGrahamrsquosfathermilksthecowsandtheycandiscusstheherdrsquosdietinthefarmhousekitchenTheentirecheeseissmotheredinbutterratherthanwaxallowingsomeairtopenetrateTheflavourislemonywithamildacidityGrahamdescribesitashavingalsquobutterycrumblersquo

OLDDEMDIKE

UnpasteurisedorganicewersquosmilkwithvegetarianrennetMadebyTimHomewoodandAngelaMorrisinMellsSomersetwithmilkfromShaftesburySimilartoayoungManchegothetasteiscleanandlemony

WIGMORE

UnpasteurisedewersquosmilkwithvegetablerennetMadeinRiseleyBerkshirebyAnneandAndyWigmoreattheendoftheirgardenThisisawashedcurdcheesemeaningaquantityofwheyisremovedduringthemakeandreplacedwithwaterndashatechniquethatreducestheacidityIthasagentleflavourwithatouchofcaramelthetextureissmoothandliabletoformawonderfulgooatroomtemperature

LITTLERYDING

UnpasteurisedewersquosmilkwithvegetarianrennetMadebyJamesandDavidBartlettontheirfamilyfarminNorthWoottonSomersetMouldripenedithasarichcreamytastewithagoodsaltiness

PERROCHE

UnpasteurisedgoatrsquosmilkwithtraditionalanimalrennetMadeatNealrsquosYardCreamerynearDorstoneHerefordshirebyCharlieWesthead(knownaffectionatelytousCharlieCheese)andHadynRobertsAfreshcheeseitstillhasalittlelactictasteIthasalemon-likeflavourwithagoodhelpingofgoat

STAWLEY

UnpasteurisedgoatrsquosmilkwithtraditionalanimalrennetMadeinStawleynearWellingtonSomersetbyCarolineAtkinsonfromhand-ladledcurdsCarolinersquoshusbandWilllooksaftertheirherdofgoatsAmixofmorningandeveningmilksthisbeautifulcheesehasasofttextureandslightlyhoneyedflavourWeregularlyhavebillygoatsonourmenuthattheycannotuseonthefarm

TYMSBORO

UnpasteurisedgoatrsquosmilkwithtraditionalanimalrennetMadeonSleightFarmnearTimsburySomersetbyMaryHolbrookHandladledandmadeinflat-toppedpyramid-shapedValencaymouldsAseriouslysmooth-texturedcheesethetasteislemonnutsandtheinevitablegoatiness

texturedcheesethetasteislemonnutsandtheinevitablegoatiness

LordrsquosLovage

JasonMitchellmakesAshridgeSparklingCideronBarkingdonFarmnearTotnesinDevonwithapplesfromhisunsprayedorchardsHeusesthemeacutethodechampeacutenoisewhichconsistsofatwo-stagefermentFirsttheciderisfermentedusingwildyeaststhenaftersixmonthsitismixedwithchampagneyeastandcanesugarandtransferredtochampagnebottleswhereitundergoesasecondaryfermentationThebottlesarestoredataconsistentlylowtemperatureforayearThisresultsinciderwithveryfinebubblesmuchlikechampagneMixingJasonrsquosciderwithourlovagesyrupwasanextremelygoodidea

HarvestingthesepreciousseedsisapleasureandfindingmoreandmorerecipesforthemisevenbetterThelovagesyrupdespiteitssweetnessaddsa

savourybackgroundnote

SERVES1

125mlAshridgeSparklingCider

FORTHELOVAGESYRUP

1tbsplovageseeds(or1tbspchoppedlovageleaves)150mlcastersugar

Tomakethelovagesyrupplacethelovageandsugarinapanwith150mlwaterandheatgentlystirringtodissolvethesugarBringtoasimmerthenremovefromtheheatandleavetocoolThesyrupwillkeepinthefridgeforupto2weeks

Tomadethedrinksimplypour25mlofthelovagesyrupintoachampagnefluteandtopupwiththecider

daggerLeavingtheciderontheyeastsediment(lees)givesthedrinkitscharacteristictoast-likeflavourThissedimentisremovedbyinvertingthebottlesusingapupitreoveramonthFinallythetopinchofthebotttlecontainingthesedimentisfrozenandremovedandamixtureofciderandsugarisaddedtoreplaceitThereisevidencetosuggestthatthismethodofsecondaryfermentationsoprecioustochampagneproducersbeganwithciderduringtheseventeenthcenturyinEnglandIthasbeenassociatedwithtwoindividualsLordScudamoreandJamesMerretandveryfinegentlemantheyweretoo

AppleFlip

JackdranksomethingsimilartothisattheHindsHeadrestaurantinBrayandwhenhearrivedbackatBarleyWoodheputtogetherthisversionTheflipisarefineddescendentoftheeggdrinksthatwereastapleinAmericaupuntilthemiddleofthenineteenthcenturyEarlyflipswereamixtureofbeerrumeggandsugarpouredfromcontainertocontainertoaeratethemAred-hotpokerwouldthenbeplungedintotheflipcausingittofrothand

red-hotpokerwouldthenbeplungedintotheflipcausingittofrothandaddingaburntcaramelflavourWehavenottriedthisyetbutitbecomesincreasinglytemptingafterafewflipsInEnglandthisstyleofdrinkneverachievedthepopularitythatithadincolonialAmericaalthoughtheegg-baseddrinksofChristmasareareminderoftheseoldstylesWeparticularlyliketheapplejuiceandbrandyblendsmadebyJulian

TemperleyofTheSomersetCiderBrandyCompanyAswellassomeexcellentvintagesofbrandyandciderhehascreatedtwodrinksKingstonBlackandPomonaKingstonBlackisslightlysweeterandissimilarinmanywaystoaPineaudesCharentesorwhiteport

SERVES1

45mlKingstonBlack25ml3-year-oldSomersetCiderBrandy20gcastersugar1free-rangeeggasmallgratingofnutmegalargechunkoficeorenoughicecubestofillacocktailshakerbytwothirds

CombinealltheingredientsexceptthenutmegandiceintheglasspartofaBostonshakerPlacethetinontopandtaptosecureitthenshakevigorouslyBreakaparttheshakerandthenpourthecontentsfromashighupasyoudarebackintothemetalhalfoftheshakerThisaddsevenmoreairtothedrinkDropintheicendashifyouhavealargechunkthiswillchillthedrinkwithoutdilutingittoomuchandwillalsogiveasmoother-texturedflipShakeuntilthesidesoftheshakercondensethenpourtheflipintoaglassusingaHawthornestrainerFinishwithafinegratingofnutmeg

TheOrchardatBarleyWood

BarleyWoodrsquosmainorchardwasthefirstpartoftheWalledGardenwesawwhenwecametolookataprospectiverestaurantwewerethinkingoftakingoverAtfirstsighttheorcharddidnotstandoutasbeingparticularlydifferentfromothersintheareabutafterwehadwalkedaroundwebecamecaptivatedbythehistorybehinditIthadamesmerisingsenseofalivingpastthathadsurvivedthetestoftimendashandcouldcontinuewellintothefutureOurbusinesswasfoundedonthebeliefthatcookingwithlocalseasonalproducewasaprincipleworthstrivingforandhereitwasndashaplacethatperfectlyepitomisedthisidealwiththeorchardatthecentreofitallHavingaccesstotheorchardandthebarnwherethejuicewouldbe

pressedbecameoneofthemostexcitingfacetsofthenewprojectwehadembarkeduponWewouldhavetheopportunitytoplayapartinreignitingthepassionfortheBritishapplendashandwhatbetterproducetoshowcaseour

thepassionfortheBritishapplendashandwhatbetterproducetoshowcaseourbeliefinlocalseasonalproducethantheappleitselfApplesaremostcertainlyseasonalbutalsoextremelyversatileastheykeepwellformanymonthsifyoustorethemproperlyTheygrowwellwithouttheuseofpesticidesorfertilisersastheunsprayedorchardatBarleyWooddemonstratesThereareover70typesofapplegrowingtheremakingitanexcellentlivingmuseumthatfeaturessomeofthebestvarietiesaroundApplesarefascinatingfruitsTheirgeneticmake-upissocomplexthatif

youweretoeatanapplefromaspecifictreeandplantapipfromithopingtoreproducethattreeitishighlyunlikelythatyouwouldendupwiththesamevarietyThisgeneticcharacteristiciswhatledtotheproliferationofvarietiesalthoughnotnecessarilytheonespeoplemostwantedtoeatTheancientprocesscalledgraftingallowedpeopletoreplicatethemostsought-aftervarietiesThissimpleyeteffectivetechniqueconsistsofmakinganincisioninthetree(knownasthestock)andinsertingasegmentofthedesiredtree(calledthescion)ThegraftisthensecuredwithtapeandcoveredwithtartopreventanywaterpenetrationWhatseemstobeafairlyrudimentaryoperationhasworkedremarkablywellforcenturiesThetechniquewasfirstusedbytheChinesebefore2000BCandsubsequentlyinAncientGreeceIntheUKwehavetheVictorianstothankforthemanyvarietiesof

applesthatgrowhereThekeencompetitivespiritofgardenersonVictorianestatessuchasBarleyWoodledthemtoproduceawiderangeoffruitandvegetablessomeofwhicharestillverypopulartodayThereweresomanyapplevarietiesaroundatthattimethatitwouldhavebeenpossibletoeatadifferentappleeachdayforsixyearsCurrentlythereareover2300varietiesofapplespreservedinthe

NationalFruitCollectionatBrogdaleinKentndashalthoughsadly70percentofapplessoldintheUKtodayareimportedApplevarietiesthatkeepwellanddonotbruisewhentransportedhavepushedmanyothertypesoffthemarketOneofouraimsattheWalledGardenistoshowcasethedifferentvarietiesinourcookinginthehopethatthiswillpromotediversityandencouragepeopletoplanttheirfavouritevarietyintheirgardenThesameappliestoourjuicewhichiscarefullyblendedfromtheapplevarietiesthatcomplementeachotherbestNotwobatchesarethesamesincewepresstheapplesastheybecomeripesotheearlierbatcheswilltastedifferentfromtheonesmadepredominantlyfromlate-seasonapplesThejuiceistrulyanartisanproductmadeinamanualwoodenpresssituatedinabarnatthe

artisanproductmadeinamanualwoodenpresssituatedinabarnatthebottomoftheWalledGardenHereisabrieflistofsomeofourfavouritevarietieswhichdeservegreaterrecognition

AshmeadrsquosKernelBlenheimOrangeCheddarCrossMorganSweetOldSomersetRussetJamesGrieveRibstonPippinLaxtonrsquosEpicureTydemanrsquosLateOrangeSummerGoldenPippin

MAKINGAPPLEJUICE

TheapplesarecollectedinseparatetrugsaccordingtotheirvarietythenplacedonametaltableandcleanedthoroughlywithapowerfuljetwashTheyaresubsequentlymovedtoanelectricscratterwhichislikeagiantgraterintheshapeofafunnelThegratedappleisplacedinawoodenframeontopofalsquocheeseclothrsquondasheffectivelyasievethatpreventsanygratedapplepassingthroughndashthenputontopofthewoodenpressTheprocessisrepeateduntilwehavestackedupsevenoreightframesofroughlyonevarietyofappleThismeansitistimetowinddownthepressndashanexhaustingbuthighlyrewardingstageoftheprocessastheblendedapplejuicestartsflowingandyoucanseetheresultofallofyourhardworkMoreimportantlyitisnowtimetodosometastingtoensurethatthejuiceispalatableThisisalsowhenbetsareplacedabouthowmanybottleswewillmakeonthisoccasionWiththehelpofabottlefillerwedecantthejuiceintoglass

bottlesWeliketouseclearglassasitshowsthewonderfulambercolourofthejuiceMostproducersaddascorbicacidtopreventoxidationThisresultsinagreencolourwhichwearetoldistheshadeofapplejuicethepublicisusedtoWedefiantlybelievethatthenaturalambercolourofthejuiceisbeautifulandshouldbecelebratedsoweomittheascorbicacidThebottlesareplacedinapasteurisingunitsetatover70degC

for20minutestoensurethatwecankeepthejuiceforuptoayear

MAKINGAPPLEJUICEATHOME

OnaverysmallscaleathomeyoucanmakeapplejuiceUseajuiceextractorifyouhaveoneorablenderandasieveThisisthesimplestmethodandisconvenientifyouhaveatreeinyourbackgardensoyoucanpickjusttheapplesthatyouneedforthatdayThejuicewillkeepforadayifstoredinthefridgebutwithoutpasteurisationyouwonrsquotbeabletokeepitformuchlongerIfyouareinterestedinlarger-scaleproductionathomeyou

canbuyatablepresswithacapacityofanythingfrom5to40litresDependingonitssizeyoumightneedtocuttheapplesupbeforepressingthemTopasteurisethejuicesimplyplaceitinasaucepanandheatuntilitreachesatemperatureofjustover70degCthenkeepitatthistemperaturefor20minutesYouwillneedtoinvestinagoodthermometertoensurenotonlythatthecorrecttemperatureisreachedbutthatitismaintainedfortherequiredtimeTransfertosterilisedbottlesAlternativelyyoucanpasteurisethejuiceinsterilisedbottles

thatarespecificallydesignedtowithstandtheheatofpasteurisationFillthemwiththejuice(butleavethelidsoff)TakealargedeeppanthatwillholdthebottlesstandinguprightandfillitwithwaterHeatuntilthetemperaturereaches70degCthenaddthebottlesandcheckthetemperatureofthewateragainOnceithasreturnedto70degCleavethebottlesfor20minutesthenremoveandscrewthelidsonThisprocesswillallowyoutokeepthejuiceforuptoayear

daggerWithover70applevarietiesintheorchardsattheWalledGardenittooksometimeuntilwecouldtriumphantlysaythatwehadsampledeachandeveryoneofthemSadlyMorganSweetwasnotavarietythatwechosetosamplefirstItisdreary-lookingandwebecametoosmittenwithAshmeadKernelstospareanytimeforothertypesWegotsuspiciousaboutthesehiddengemswhenanelderlycouplecameintothegardenslookingspecificallyforMorganSweetsThatyearwehadacopiouscropandgladlyletthemhaveabucketfulAfterthecouplersquosthirdvisitwethoughtwehadbettertrythemBecausetheywerelabelledasciderapplesweexpectedthemtobetoosharptoeatAsinglemouthfulwasenoughtoputtheirnameintocontextMorganSweetswerepopularinSomersetinthefirsthalfofthetwentiethcenturyOuroldercustomerstellustheywerecherishedtreatsduringtheWarwhenfoodwasscarceWealsohearofMorganSweetsbeinggreatscrumpingprizessovaluableat

wartimethattreelocationswerekeptsecrettoensureasteadysupplyforthoseintheknowTheseapplesareextremelyjuicywhenripeandweinitiallyaddedthem

toourapplejuicetobalancethesournessofearlycropsWewouldlovetoseearevivalofMorganSweetapplesintheUKifonlyasapoignantreminderofhowcertainvarietiesbecomeunfairlypigeonholedasdessertcidercookingtypes

SalsifyandOgleShieldGratin

ThesalsifyatBarleyWoodgrowsoppositethemainentrancetotherestaurantItisstunningtolookatespeciallywhenitsdelicateflowersturnintoanenormouslysoftdandelionastheygotoseedSeeingitdailyforawholeseasonencouragesustoincludeitineveryformofrecipeWecameupwiththisdishwhenagardeningmagazineaskedusto

produceasetoflunchtimerecipesforgardenerstoeatwhileatworkndashsomethingthatcouldbepreparedinadvancebutenjoyedoutdoorsItwasoriginallyintendedtobeeatencoldHoweverassoonasweaddedthecheeseittookonawholenewdimensionandwebecameconvincedthatourconcoctionhadtoeatenwhilestillhotOgleShieldisaworthySomersetequivalenttoFrenchracletteItmelts

verywellandinouropinionisoneofthebestcheesesforgratinsWedareanyonewhodoesnotlikecheesetotryameltingsliceofOgleShieldIthastheabilitytoturnanycheesescepticintoatrueturophile

SERVES4ndash6

1tbspcidervinegar600gsalsify200mlwhitewine800mlvegetablestock(seehere)200gOgleShieldcheese(orraclette)50gbutter65gplainflour

2tbspdoublecreamfrac12nutmegfinelygratedseasaltandfreshlygroundwhitepepper

Heattheovento180degCGasMark4FillalargebowlwithwaterandaddthevinegartoitWorkingquicklypeelthesalsifyandwashthoroughlyundercoldwaterCutitinto10cmlengthsandthenslicethemthinlylengthwayspreferablyonamandolinetoachieve10cmbatonsAssoonaseachlengthhasbeenslicedplaceittheacidulatedwaterThiswillpreventthesalsifyoxidisingandturningbrown

PutthewhitewineandvegetablestockinapanandbringtotheboilStrainthesalsifyaddtothepanandcookfor6ndash8minutesuntilitistenderbutretainsaslightbiteStrainthesalsifyretainingthecookingliquorReturntheliquortothepanandboiluntilreducedbytwothirds

Meanwhilethinlyslice150gofthecheeseandgratetherestArrangealayerofsalsifyinagratindishapproximately23cmtimes13cmcompletelycoveringthebaseAddanotherlayerofsalsifyfollowedbyathinlayerofOgleShieldslicesandrepeatuntilallthesalsifyandslicedcheesehavebeenadded

MeltthebutterinasaucepanaddtheflourandstirtomakeathickpasteGraduallypourinthereducedcookingliquorstirringconstantlyYoumaynotneedalltheliquidndashstopwhentheconsistencyislikesinglecreamStirinthedoublecreamthenaddthenutmegandsomesaltandpeppertotaste

SlowlypourthesauceoverthelayeredgratinCoverthedishwithfoilplaceintheovenandbakefor25minutesRemovethefoilsprinklethegratedcheeseoverthetopandplaceunderahotgrilluntilthecheesehasmeltedandbeguntobrown

VincentCastellanorsquosVenisonChorizo

OurfriendVincentCastellanoputtogetherthisrecipeforwhenwehaveahealthy-sizedroebuckinthekitchenHebeganhiscareerasapot-washeratacharcuterieinGrenobleintheearly1970sSeeingwholepigsarrivingonaMondayandleavingasterrinespacircteacutessalamiandhamsjustafewdayslaterinspiredhimtoturnasummerjobintoatwo-yearapprenticeshipHemovedtotheUKin1983andworkedasachefsincetherewerefewopportunitiesforcharcutiersthenItisonlyinthelastdecadethathehastakenuphisoriginalprofessionfulltimeonceagainfirmlydeclaringlsquoItiswhatIknowbestrsquoTheUKhasneverdevelopedatraditionofcuredsausagesforthesimple

reasonithasadampclimateInsteadwehavebecomeexpertsatmakingfreshsausagesThecountrieswithacultureofdry-curedmeatsarelargelyconfinedtomountainousregionswithaprevailingdrywindfromthenorthTheSpanishhavedevelopedaparticularskillincuringthathasevolvedinpartduetotheiridealweatherconditionsTherecipewehavedevelopedwithVincentisbasedonatraditionalcured

SpanishchorizocontainingpaprikasmokedpaprikaandgarlicOurversionalsoincludesturmericclovesjunipercorianderandsmokedchilliplusourownsloeginAlternativelyourhousevermouth(seehere)worksbeautifullyBothofferagentlebackgroundflavourDuringautumnwemakethechorizowithneckandshouldercutsfromaroebuckDuetoitslowfatcontentadditionalfatisneededsoweaddporkbellyandbackfattakenfromGloucesterOldSpotpigsThesausageishungfor6ndash7weeksduringwhichtimeitisfermentedbylactic-producingbacteriaTheincreaseinacidandtheparalleldehydrationcoupledwiththehighsaltcontentpreservethechorizowhileintensifyingitsflavourForthecasingVincentusesoxrunnersanaturalporouscasingdistinguishedbyitsgentlecurveTheingredientsbelowaregiveninrelationto1kgoftotalmeatA

manageableamounttomakeis3kgwhichwillfilla3-metrelengthofhogcasing(32mmdiameter)ora15-metrelengthofoxrunners(50ndash55mmdiameter)ThequantityofcuringsaltiscriticalbutalltheotherspicescanbeadjustedaccordingtotasteThecuringsaltcontainssaltpetrewhichpreservesthecolourofthemeatandinhibitsunwelcomebacterialgrowth

Youwillneedasausagemakeroramixerwithasausage-makingattachmentThesecanbeboughtonlinefromwwwweschenfeldercoukwhichalsosellscuringsaltandcasingsAlltheequipmentusedformakingthesausagesshouldbesterilisedfirst

hogcasings(forsmallerchorizo)oroxrunners(forlargerones)alittlevinegar

EACHKILOOFMEATSHOULDCONSISTOFTHEFOLLOWING

800gbonelessvenisonshoulderbellyflapandneckmeat100gporkbelly100gporkbackfat

FORTHESEASONINGS(ALLCALCULATEDPERKILOOFMEAT)

25gcuringsalt20mlsloeginorvermouth20gpaprika5gsmokedpaprika3gsmokedchillipowder1gcayennepepper1gturmeric2ggarlicpowderfrac14tspgroundcumin1ggroundcorianderfrac14tspgroundcloves⅛tspgroundjuniper⅛tspgroundstaranise

ThoroughlywashthesaltoffthecasingsthensoaktheminalargeplastictubofcoldwaterforatleastanhourChangethewateradding1partvinegarto40partswaterandsoakfor30minutesbeforeuse

Cutallthemeatinto3ndash5cmpiecesplaceinabowlandaddthecuringsaltMixthoroughlyandthenstoreinthefridgefor24hoursMixinthealcoholandreturntothefridgeforafurther24hours

Mincethemeatonthefinesettingofamincer(an8mmmincingplate)ensuringthatthetemperatureremainsbelow8degCAddtheremainingseasoningsandmixuntilalltheingredientsadheretogetherthenpressthemixdownfirmlywithyourhandsinordertopushoutasmuchairaspossiblePlaceinasausagefiller

Ifusingoxrunnerscuttheminto30cmlengthsbeforefillingHogcasingscanbefilledcontinuouslyandtiedinto15cm-longsausages

MakeaknotatoneendofyourchosencasingslidetheotherendoverthenozzleofthesausagefillerandfillgraduallyensuringenoughtensioniskeptRemovefromthefillerandtietheendastightlyaspossiblewithstringmakingaloopinitwithwhichtohangthesausagePricktheskinwithaneedletoletoutanyairpockets

Hangthechorizoatroomtemperature(ideally25degC)for24hoursAfterthisstagethechorizocanbeusedforcookingIfyouwantacuredsausagemovethechorizotohanginacoolplace(preferably12ndash14degC)withahumiditylevelof80percentndashyoucanbuyhygrometersingardencentreswithwhichtocheckthehumidityOverthenextfewdaysawhitelsquomouldrsquoshoulddevelopontheskinMaturationcantakefrom3weeks(forhogcasings)to7weeks(foroxrunners)ItrsquosworthcheckingyourchorizoonadailybasisBecauseitisdependentontemperaturehumiditylevelsandthelengthanddiameterofthesausagethematurationtimewillvaryWhenthechorizoisreadyitwillfeelfirmwhensqueezedIfyousliceitwithasharpknifethemeatshouldholdtogetherwellTheskincanbeeatenorremovedasyoupreferTheflavourofthechorizoshouldbeintensewithagoodacidityandsweetnessandspiceflavourscomingthroughintheaftertasteItwillkeepwellinthebottomofthefridgewrappedinfoiloracleanclothforuptoamonth

BASICRECIPES

Stocks

AgoodstockisavitalcomponentofyourrepertoireStockformsthebaseofcountlessdishesandhavingastockthatpacksamassivepunchofflavourmeansthatyouarehalfwaytocreatingadeliciousmealInvestingalittlebitoftimeandmoneyinstockisaworthycauseandweguaranteeyouitwillimproveyourcookingnoendManypeoplendashchefsincludedndashonlyusebonesforstock-makingWelike

tousetheslightlytoughermoreflavourfulcutsofmeatndashtheycanboostastockrsquoscomplexityandtheyrsquorealsoquitecheaptheymaycostalittlemorethanbonesbuttheextraflavourmorethanmakesupforitCombinethatwithagoodratioofvegetablesandherbstweakingthesweetnessorfreshnessaccordingtotasteIainlikestousemorecarrotsonionsandgarlictoachieveasweeterresultHerbscanbeaddedattheveryendaddingfreshnesstothebaseflavourYoucanevenaddthemasawarminfusionrightatthelastsecondThisgivesyougreatcontrolovertheflavourofthestockYoucanmaketherecipesinthisbookforimmediateuseordoubleor

triplethequantitiesandfreezemostinsmallbatchesforupto3monthsIfyoudevotehalfadayorsoeverymonthtomakingstocksyoushouldhaveaconstantsupplyinthefreezerAsalwaysusetheserecipesasaguideandonceyouunderstandthebasicprinciplesexperimentSomeofourdisheshaveundergonecountlessreinventionstogetthemtowheretheyarenowWemakeallourstocksinthepressurecooker(formoreonpressurecookingandwhywedothisseehere)

BeefStock

YIELDSABOUT2KG

1kgbeefboneschoppedinto25ndash5cmpieces(askyourbutchertodothis)600goxtailsectioned

rapeseedoil

rapeseedoil360gonionsfinelysliced1kgbeefshinorchuckchoppedinto25cmcubes220gcarrotsfinelysliced130gbuttonmushroomsfinelysliced220gtomatoesslicedfrac12smallheadofgarlicseparatedintoclovesandsmashedwiththeflatsideofaknifeHeattheovento180degCGasMark4LightlyandthoroughlyrubthebonesandtheoxtailwithrapeseedorvegetableoilPlaceinaroastingtray(orseparateroastingtraysifnecessary)androastfor45ndash60minutesturningthepiecesevery15minutesuntildarkgoldenbrownIfanypartsoftheoxtailbecomebrownbeforeeverythingelseremovefromtheovenandsetaside

MeanwhilecoatthebottomofapressurecookerwithrapeseedoilandplaceoveramediumheatAddtheonionsandcookoveramedium-lowheatuntildarkandcaramelisedndashthiswilltakeabout30ndash45minutesstirringregularlyandscrapinganystickybitsfromthebottomofthepanDonotallowtoburnTakeofftheheatandallowtocool

HeatafryingpanuntilextremelyhotAddafilmofrapeseedoiltheoilshouldbegintosmokeIfitdoesnotthenkeepontheheatuntilsmokinghotAddthebeefshinorchuckandcookturninguntildarkbrownonallsidesavoidingburningTakethemeatoutofthepanandsetasideDrainanyfatoutofthepanbeforeplacingthepanbackonahighheatAddenoughwatertocoverthebaseofthepanandbringtotheboilScrapeawayanyleftoversthatarestucktothebottomofthepanAddthisdeglazingliquidtothepressurecooker

WipeoutyourfryingpanaddafilmofrapeseedoilandplaceoveramediumheatAddthecarrotsandfryuntilsoftandlightlygolden(about20ndash30minutes)AddthecarrotstothecookedonionsalongwiththemushroomsandsetasideuntilreadytouseDeglazethepanusingthesamemethodasaboveandaddtheliquidtothepressurecooker

RepeatingtheprocessfrythetomatoesinoiluntiltheytakeonsomecolourscrapingoffanystickybitsfromthebottomofthepanAddthegarlicandfryforafurthercoupleofminutesensuringnothingburnsAddthe

fryforafurthercoupleofminutesensuringnothingburnsAddthetomatoesandgarlictothepressurecookeranddeglazethefryingpanwithwaterasbeforeAddthedeglazingliquidtothepressurecooker

RemovethebonesfromtheovenwhentheyareadeepgoldencolourPouroffanyexcessfatfromtheroastingtrayPlacethebonesandoxtailinthepressurecookerPuttheroastingtray(s)overahighheatDeglazewithwaterasbeforeandaddtheliquidtothepressurecooker

AddenoughwatertothepressurecookersothattheingredientsareonlyjustcoveredPlaceoveramedium-highheatandbringtoagentlesimmerskimmingawayanyfatandimpuritiesthatrisetothesurfaceOnceatagentlesimmerplacethelidonthepressurecookerandturntheheatuptofullAllowthepressurecookertocometofullpressurebeforereducingtheheatCookatfullpressurefor2hoursRemovefromtheheatandallowthepressurecookertocooltoroomtemperaturebeforeremovingthelidStrainthestockthroughtwolayersofwetmuslinImmediatelychillinabowlsetoveranotherbowlfilledwithiceRemovethelayeroffatthatformsbeforeusingUsewithin4daysorfreezeforupto3months

Whitechickenstock

WeusewhitechickenstockwhenwewantagreatbaseflavourthatdoesnrsquotoverpowerthetasteorcolourofothermoredelicateingredientsItismoresubtlethanourbrownchickenstock(seehere)Thevegetablesaregentlysoftenedandthebonesbrieflyblanchedtoremoveanyimpuritiesthenpressurecookedfor90minutesItisgreatforrisottossoupsandsauces

YIELDSABOUT2KG

15kgchickenwingschoppedinto3ateachjointrapeseedoil300gonionsfinelysliced150gcarrotsfinelysliced120gbuttonmushroomsfinelysliced4garlicclovessmashedwiththeflatsideofaknifePutthechickenwingsinasaucepanandcoverwithcoldwaterPlaceonamediumheatandbringtotheboilskimmingoffanyscumthatrisestothesurfaceOnceboiling

totheboilskimmingoffanyscumthatrisestothesurfaceOnceboilingdrainimmediatelydiscardingthewaterRinsethewingsthoroughlyundercoldwater

Coatthebottomofapressurecookerwithafilmofrapeseedoilandplaceoveramedium-lowheatAddallthevegetablesandcookuntilsoftenedwithoutcolouringthiswilltakeabout10ndash15minutesAddthechickenwingsandenoughcoldwaterjusttocoverPlaceonamedium-highheatandbringtoagentlesimmerskimmingawayanyfatandimpuritiesthatrisetothesurfaceOnceatagentlesimmerplacethelidonthepressurecookerandturntheheatuptofullAllowthepressurecookertocometofullpressurebeforereducingtheheatCookatfullpressurefor90minutes

RemovefromtheheatandallowtocooltoroomtemperaturebeforeremovingthelidStrainthroughtwoormorelayersofwetmuslinoraveryfinechinoisorsieveImmediatelychillinabowlsetoveranotherbowlfilledwithice(orputstraightintothefridge)Usewithin4daysorfreezeforupto3months

BrownChickenStock

YIELDSABOUT2KG

2kgchickenwingschoppedinto3ateachjointafewtablespoonsofskimmedmilkpowder(seeboxbelow)rapeseedorgroundnutoil

300gonionsfinelysliced150gcarrotsfinelysliced150gbuttonmushroomsfinelysliced4garlicclovessmashedwiththeflatsideofknife(or2wetgarlicclovesifavailableandinseason)Heattheovento200degCGasMark6PlacethewingsinaroastingtrayevenlyspreadinasinglelayerandsprinkleoverenoughmilkpowdertolightlycoatthemRoastfor45ndash60minutesturningevery15minutesuntilthewingsareabeautifuldarkbrowncolourThefirsttimeyouturnthewingsgivethepaleundersidealightsprinklingofmilkpowdertooThiswillensurethewingsareanevencolourandimpartmoreflavourintothestock

PlacethepressurecookeroveramediumheattogetitwarmbeforeaddingenoughrapeseedoiltocoverthebottomAddtheonionsReducetoamedium-lowheatandcooktheonionsuntilstickyandcaramelisedthiswilltakeabout30ndash45minutesStirthemregularlytakingcarenottoletthemburnandadjustingtheheatasneededScrapeanystickybitsoffthebottomofthepanWhentheonionsarecaramelisedaddthecarrotsandcookuntilsoftRemovefromtheheatandaddthemushroomsandgarlicSetaside

WhenthewingsareevenlycolouredremovefromtheovenanddrainthefatfromthetrayPlaceallthewingsintothepressurecooker

PlacetheroastingtrayoverahighheatandaddacoveringofwaterandbringtotheboilScrapeoffthestickybitsofmeatwithaspatulaorwoodenspoonPourthedeglazingliquidandcrispybitsofmeatintothepressurecooker

AddenoughcoldwatertothepressurecookertojustcoverthebonesPlaceonamedium-highheatandbringtoagentlesimmerskimmingawayanyfatandimpuritiesthatrisetothesurfaceOnceatagentlesimmerplacethelidonthepressurecookerandturntheheatuptofullAllowthepressurecookertocometofullpressurebeforereducingtheheatCookatfullpressurefor2hours

RemovefromtheheatandallowtocoolnaturallytoroomtemperaturebeforereleasingthelidRemovethelidbeforestrainingthestockthroughseverallayersofwetmuslinorthroughaveryfinechinoisorsieveRefrigerateimmediatelyremovingthelayeroffatfromthetopbeforeuseUsewithin4daysorfreezeforupto3months

UsingmilkpowdertodustthewingsmayseemalittleoddbutthemilkpowderisextraproteinthatbooststheMaillard

Reaction(thebrowningonmeatthatgivesititscharacteristicflavour)ItisarevelationItgivestheliquidanextrahitof

meatinessandresultsinastockthatisarichdeepbrownItrsquosanexcellentandsimplewayofboostingyourstockrsquosflavourprofile

Fishstock

YIELDSABOUT1KG

rapeseedoil100gonionfinelysliced80gcarrotsfinelysliced80gbuttonmushroomfinelysliced1tspfennelseed1tspcorianderseed1kgfishbones(avoidoilyfishlikemackereltroutorsalmon)PlaceapressurecookeroveramediumheatandaddathinfilmofrapeseedoilAddalltheingredientsexceptthefishbonesandcookuntilsoftenedndashthiswilltakeabout5ndash10minutesAddthefishbonestothepressurecookerandaddenoughcoldwaterjusttocover

Placeoveramedium-highheatandbringtoagentlesimmerskimmingoffanyimpuritiesthatrisetothesurfaceOnceatagentlesimmerplacethelidonthepressurecookerandturntheheatuptofullAllowthepressurecookertocometofullpressurebeforereducingtheheatCookatfullpressurefor20minutesRemovefromtheheatandallowtocooltoroomtemperatureStrainthroughtwolayersofwetmuslinintoabowlsetoveranotherbowlfilledwithiceRefrigerateforupto3daysorfreezeforupto1month

VegetableStock

ThisvegetablestockisdelicatesweetandlightlyaromaticItrsquosgreatinrisottossoupsstewsandformakingvegetariansaucesForconveniencemakeatleastdoublethisrecipeandfreezesmallerquantitiesforuseatalaterdate

YIELDSABOUT1KG

rapeseedorvegetableoil550gonionsfinelysliced500gcarrotfinelysliced500gmushroomsfinelysliced(buttonorbrown)200gceleryfinelysliced10garliccloves(or1smallgarlicbulb)smashedwiththeflatsideofaknife2tbspcorianderseed

1tbspfennelseeds4wholestaranises2tspblackpeppercorns2bayleaves

PlaceapressurecookeroveramediumheatandaddathinfilmofrapeseedoilAddallthevegetablestothepanandsweatfor5ndash10minutesuntilthevegetableshavesoftenedAddallthespicesandbayleavesandcoverwithwaterAddthelidandturntheheatuptofullBringtofullpressureandthenreducetheheatCookatfullpressurefor15minutesRemovefromtheheatandallowtocooltoroomtemperature

RemovethelidandpassthestockthroughtwolayersofwetmuslinRefrigerateimmediatelyandusewithin5daysorfreezeforupto3months

MushroomStock

ThismushroomstockisoneofthemoresimplestocksthatyouwillcomeacrossutilisingonlytwoingredientsItssimplicitydoesnotdetractfromitsabilitytoimpartarichumamiflavourintothedish(seehere)ortohelpboostthistasteindishesalreadyrichinumami

YIELDSABOUT500G

500gbuttonorportobellomushroomsfinelysliced500gcoldwater

PutthemushroomsandwaterinapressurecookerandplaceoverahighheatBringtofullpressurebeforeturningtheheatdowntolowCookatfullpressurefor15minutesbeforeturningtheheatoffAllowtocoolto

fullpressurefor15minutesbeforeturningtheheatoffAllowtocooltoroomtemperatureRemovethelidandstrainthestockthroughtwolayersofwetmuslinRefrigerateimmediately

Usewithin5daysorfreezeforupto3months

TomakethisstockwithoutapressurecookerplacetheingredientsinasaucepanandbringtoasimmerKeepatasteadysimmerfor20minutesbeforeremovingfromtheheatAllowtocoolbeforestrainingandrefrigeratingasabove

TheEthicureanSaladDressing

100grapeseedoil60gvintagecidervinegarsuchasOstlerrsquos8gDijonmustardfrac14tspxanthangum(optionalbutrecommended)

AddalltheingredientsexcepttheoiltoablenderorstickblenderjugBlitzonfullspeedfor30secondsbeforeslowlypouringintheoilasyouwouldtomakeamayonnaiseContinueaddinginathinsteadystreamuntilalltheoilisincorporatedBlitzforafurther30secondsonfullspeedRefrigerateforuptoaweek

TomakebyhandcombinealltheingredientsexcludingtheoilinabowlWhiskvigorouslyuntilairyGraduallyaddtheoilwhilewhiskinghard

DarkPlumChutney

MAKESABOUT1KG

550gplumshalvedandstoned450mlmaltvinegar550gdarkbrownsugar300gsultanas150gonionsfinelydiced

10ggarlicfinelydiced35gsalt10gmustardseeds15ggroundgingerfrac12tsponion(nigella)seedsfrac12tspgroundstaranisefrac12tspgroundcinnamon1blackcardamompod

Puttheplumsinalargeheavy-basedsaucepanorapreservingpanalongwiththevinegarandsugarSimmeruntilthefruitbreaksdownthenaddalltheremainingingredientsReturntoasimmerandcookforaround40minutesuntilthickenedStiroftenwhilebeingmindfulofsplashesIthasatendencytospitwhenitisclosetothecorrectconsistencyWhenitisreadyallthethinliquidwillhaveevaporatedandthechutneywillsmelldeeplyrichlikeliquorice

Pourcarefullyintohotsterilisedjars(seehere)andsealInvertthejarsforamomenttoensurethelidsaresterilisedthenturntherightwayupandleavetocoolwhileyouwritealabelforeachjar

PickledBeetroot

PreservingvegetableswithsaltandvinegarisinvaluabletoaseasonalkitchenThismethodalsosuitscarrotcauliflowerandanyotherfirmvegetablesThemethodofcalculatingthesaltandvinegarcontentinthismethodisadaptabletovaryingweightsofproduceandthereforegreatforseasonalglutsChangethespicestosuittheveg

450gpeeledbeetrootcubedinto1cmcubescidervinegarfineseasalt4staranise1tsppeppercorns1tspcuminseeds

1tspcuminseeds

Sprinklethebeetrootgenerouslywithsaltandleavefor1hourDrainandrinseundercoldwater

Placethebeetrootintoa500mlKilnerjarorliddedtupperwarecontainerPlacethecontaineronasetofscalesandsetthemtozero(orlsquotarersquo)CoverthecontentsinwaterandmakeanoteoftheweightDiscardthewaterWeighoutthesameamountofcidervinegarasittookwatertocoverthebeetrootCalculate10percentofthisweightandaddthatweightinsalt(eg200gofcidervinegarwouldrequire20gsalt)PlacethevinegarsaltandspicesinasaucepanoveramediumheatandbringtotheboilImmediatelypourthehotliquidoverthebeetrootinthejarorcontainerEnsurethebeetrootiscompletelycoveredbeforesealingthelidandallowingtocooltoroomtemperatureRefrigerateonceopenedItwillkeepforupto2months

PickledNasturtiumSeeds

AtthestartofNovemberasthefirstfrostsdescendthenasturtiumsthathavebeensousefulfortheirleavesandflowerswillbegintogotoseedAself-seedingplantsuchasthiswonrsquotmissafewseedpodssoweharvestasmanyaswecanandpicklethemasalsquopoormanrsquoscaperrsquo

asmanynasturtiumseedpodsasyoucanfindfineseasalt

PERLITREOFPICKLINGORCIDERVINEGAR

picklingorcidervinegar10gseasaltor10percentbyweightofvinegar2cloves4freshbayleaves5allspiceberries5blackpeppercorns

Sprinklethenasturtiumseedpodsgenerouslywithsaltandleavefor1hourDrainandrinseundercoldwater

Placethenasturtiumseedpodsintoa500mlKilnerjarorliddedtupperwarecontainerPlacethecontaineronasetofscalesandsetthemtozero(orlsquotarersquo)CoverthecontentsinwaterandmakeanoteoftheweightDiscardthewaterWeighoutthesameamountofcidervinegarasittookwatertocovertheseedpodsCalculate10percentofthisweightandaddthatweightinsalt(eg100gofcidervinegarwouldrequire10gsalt)PlacethevinegarsaltandspicesinasaucepanoveramediumheatandbringtotheboilImmediatelypourthehotliquidovertheseedpodsinthejarorcontainerEnsuretheseedpodsarecompletelycoveredbeforesealingthelidInvertthejarsforamomenttoensurethelidsaresterilisedbeforeallowingtocooltoroomtemperatureRefrigerateonceopenedandkeepforupto1month

PickledCarrots

250gcarrotscutinto1cmcubescidervinegar4blackcardamompods2tbspcorianderseedsseasalt

StartbygenerouslysprinklingthecubedcarrotswithsaltSetasidefor1hourforthemoisturetobedrawnout

DrainthecarrotsandrinseoffanyexcesssaltPlaceinatupperwarecontainerlargeenoughjusttoholdthemPlacethecontaineronasetofscalesandsetthemtozero(orlsquotarersquo)CoverthecontentsinwaterandmakeanoteoftheweightDiscardthewaterWeighoutthesameamountofcidervinegarasittookwatertocoverthecarrotsCalculate10percentofthisweightandaddthatweightinsalt(eg200gofcidervinegarwouldrequire20gsalt)PlacethevinegarandsaltinasaucepanwiththecardamomandcorianderandbringtotheboilOnceboilingremovefromtheheatandpouroverthecarrotsAllowtocooltoroomtemperaturebeforerefrigeratingThepickledcarrotswillkeepforupto4weeks

WinterFruitJelly

WehaveahedgerowthatreadslikeabookofautumnandwinterfruitsndashblackberrybullacedamsonhawthornloganberryrosehiprowanandsloePreservingthemasjelliesgivesusfreshburstsofvitaminCthroughthewinterandaddsdepthtodishescookedoverthecoldermonthsUsewhateverfruitsyouhaveinwhatevercombinationfollowingthis

basicmethodWehavefoundthatfreezingtheberriesfirstandthensteamingforjuiceextractionproducesasatisfyingclearjellyThesecondbenefittofreezingthefruitisthatyouwillhavealittlemoretimetoforagebeforemakingyourjellyWedevelopedthismethodafterwelearntthatrowanberriesrequire

freezingbeforeuseastheycontainparasorbicacidanacidthatisindigestibletohumansThisaciddegradestoasafesorbicacidwhenfrozenOursteambasketmethodforextractingjuicefromfruitprovedtobemoreeffectivewhenthefruithadspenttimeinthefreezerpresumablybecausethecellwallsarebrokendownbyfreezingtherebyreleasingmoreliquidatthesteamingstage

MAKESABOUT5JARSPERKGOFFRUIT

500ghedgerowfruit500gBramleyorcrabapplespeeledandroughlychopped(pipsandcoresleftin)750gcastersugarperlitrekgofjuice

30mlorganicpreservative-freelemonjuice(bottledjuicehasasetacidity)perlitrekgofjuiceYOUWILLALSONEED

ajamthermometerordigitalkitchenprobeasheetofmuslinsterilisedjamjarsandlidsorKilnerjars(seehereforinstructionsonsterilising)LineasteamingbasketwithafoldedpieceofmuslinthisisnotessentialthoughitwillallowonlyjuicetofallintothepanbelowaidingtheclarityofthefinishedjellyPlacethehedgerowfruitandBramleyorcrabapplesinthesteamingbasketandsteamoverapanofboilingwatersetoveramediumtolowheatfor1frac12hoursRemoveboththesteamerandwaterfromtheheatandleavetocoolanddrainovernight

ThenextdaycheckthatthefruitiswelldrainedYoucansqueezeanylastmoisturefromthemuslinbutthiswillmakethejellycloudyCompostordiscardthenowflavourlessfruit

MeasurethevolumeoftheliquidinthepanndashorbetterstillweighitforaccuracyndashandpourintoalargecleanstainlesssteelpanAdd750gofsugarand30mloflemonjuiceperkiloofliquidCookoverahighheatstirringuntilthesugarisdissolvedLeavetoboilvigorouslywithoutstirringfor10ndash20minutesandthencheckthetemperatureitshouldbearound102degCYouareaimingforasettingpointtemperatureofabout103ndash105degCIfyoudonrsquothaveathermometerputaspoonfulofthejamsyrupontoachilledplateandplaceinthefridgefor1minuteSlideyourfingeracrosstheplateintothedotofsyrupandseewhetheritcrinklesupandholdsformforamomentIfitdoesthenithasreachedsettingpointIfnotcontinuetocookthejellyoverthesamehighheattestingevery5minutesAperfectlysetjellyoncechilledwillonlygiveslightresistancetoaspoonandholdshape(Itisworthnotingthatajellythatisover-firmismoreusefulthanonethathasnotsetatallsountilyouareconfidentwithyourthermometeraimforthehigherendofthetemperaturesettingzone)Skimthejelly(oraddalittleknobofbutterandstir)toremoveanyscumthencarefullypourintowarmsterilisedjarsleavingacentimetreofspaceatthetopClosethelidstightlytheninvertthemfornomorethanaminutetoensurethelidisheatedwellandsterilisedReturntoanuprightpositionandleavetocoolbeforestoringinadarkcoolplaceforimmediateconsumptionoruptooneyear

VARIATIONS

CrabapplemedlarandquincewillworkperfectlywellwithoutadditionalpectinfromBramleyapplesbutbesuretoincludetheircoresandpipsduringsteamingandthecitrusduringcookingtosetthemYoucanincludeextraappletoincreasethevolumeifyoulikeQuinceneedtheirfinedownyhairswashingoffpriortocookingQuincejellyhaspineappleovertonesandanunbelievableamberglowwhenfinishedinthejarThemedlarsneedtobelsquoblettedrsquobeforeusingTheyfallfromthetreestillhardandneedtobeleftsomewherecooltogosoftsquishyandblackenedCrabapplejellyisagreatvehicleforotherherbswhichyoucanaddduringthesteamingprocessStaraniselavendertarragonrosemarymintandsageareallgreatandgeraniumleafworkedatreatwhenwetrieditonawhim

Flakypastry

MakingflakypastryisalengthybutrelativelysimpleprocessItrequires

MakingflakypastryisalengthybutrelativelysimpleprocessItrequiresrestingforanhourbetweeneachlsquoturnrsquo(aturnreferstoeachtimeithasbeenrolledoutbutterandlardaddedthenfoldedandreturnedtothefridge)AlwaysresistanyurgetokneadasthiswillmakethepastryelasticPerfect

flakypastryshouldbecrispandverylightWhatyouwantisapastrythatincorporatesthemultilayeredfatandpocketsofairthatcreatetheflakytexture

150gsaltedbutteratroomtemperaturebutnotoily150glardatroomtemperaturebutnotoily350gstrongwhiteflour1tspfineseasalt1frac12tsplemonjuice

Measureout200mlcoldwateraddahandfuloficecubesandsetaside

PutthebutterandlardinasmallmixingbowlandmixtogetherwithawoodenspoonThiswilltakesomeworkbuttheaimistogetthetwofairlyhomogenousWeighoutthree70gportionsandplaceeachinitsowndishCovertwoofthemwithclingfilmandplaceinthefridgeYouwillbeleftwith90gofbutterlardinthemixingbowlandonedishofbutterlardatyourside

SifttheflourandsaltintoabowlandaddthelemonjuiceAddthe90gfatleftinthemixingbowlthoroughlyscrapingthesidesofthebowlwithaspatulatogetallofitoutRubthefatintotheflourwithyourfingertipsuntilthemixtureresemblesroughbreadcrumbsIftherearestilllumpsoffatdonrsquotworryndashthiswillhelpcreateairpocketsinthepastryMakeawellinthecentreofthemixtureandplacethebowlontoweighingscalesKeepingbacktheicecubespourtheicedwaterintothecentreofthewellmakingsureyoudonrsquotaddmorethan200gMixthewaterintotheflourwitharound-bladedknifeuntilapliableslightlystickydoughhasformedTurnoutontoalightlyflouredworksurfaceShapethedoughroughlyintoacubeandusingarollingpinrollitoutawayfromyoutocreatearectangleapproximately30cmtimes15cm

Takethe70gfatthatdidnotgointhefridgebreakitroughlyapartintochunksanddotevenlyaroundthebottomtwothirdsoftherectangleFoldthetopthirdofpastryoverthemiddlethirdthenfoldupthebottomthirdof

thetopthirdofpastryoverthemiddlethirdthenfoldupthebottomthirdofpastryndashlikefoldingaletterSealtheleftandrightedgesandthensealthehorizontalfoldbypressingwithyourthumbandfingersUsingyourthumbmarkanindentinthecentreofthepastrylsquoenvelopersquoThisdotsignifiesthatitisthepastryrsquosfirstlsquoturnrsquoItrsquoswellworthdoingasrememberingwhereyoursquoreuptoafteralongafternooncanbechallengingWrapthepastryinclingfilmandplaceinthefridgeforatleast1hour

RemovethepastryfromthefridgeandgiveitaquarterturnanticlockwisesothatoneoftheshortersidesisnearesttoyouRollthepastryoutawayfromyoutoproduceanother30cmtimes15cmrectangleRepeattheprocesswithoneofthedishesofchilledlardandbutterfillingthebottomtwo-thirdsofthepastrywithdotsofthemixturethenfoldingsealingandmarking2indentsinthepastry(tosignifyitssecondlsquoturnrsquo)Wrapinclingfilmandreturntothefridgeforatleast1hour

RepeattheentireprocessusingthefinalramekinoffatrememberingtogivethepastryaquarterturnanticlockwiseMark3indentstosignifyitsthirdandfinalturnItisnotunusualforflakyorpuffpastrytohave6turnsThisistimeconsumingbutifyouwanttotryityouwillhaveanevenlighterflakierpastryIfoptingfortheextraturnsyouwillhaverunoutoffatattheendofyourthirdturnContinuerollingandfoldingasyouhavebeenbutwithouttheadditionoffatWestronglyrecommendthese3extraturnsastheextralayerswillresultinacrispierlessdensepastrythatisfarsuperior

Puffpastry

PuffpastryismadeinthesamewayastheFlakyPastryabovebutusingallunsaltedbutterinsteadofsaltedbutterandlard

CandiedPeel

1lemonpeeledwithallthewhitepithstillattachedtothepeel1bloodorangepeeledwithpithstillattached

1thumb-sizedpieceoffreshgingerpeeled500gcastersugar

PlacethecitruspeelandgingerinapancoverwithcoldwaterandbringtotheboiloveramediumheatDraindiscardingthewaterReturntothepancoverwithfreshwaterandbringslowlytotheboilagainthendrainRepeatthisprocessoncemore(ithelpstoextractthebitterness)thenplacethepeelandgingerinice-coldwaterfor10minutes

Meanwhileputthesugarinapanwith750mlcoldwaterandheatstirringoccasionallyuntilthesugarhasdissolvedRemovefromtheheatandsetaside

Cutthegingerandfruitsinto5mmcubesandaddthemtothesugarsyrupCookonthelowestpossibleheatfor6hoursathermometerwillbeusefulhereasyouneedtokeepthesyrupat70ndash80degCYoumayneedtohavethepanhalf-onhalf-offtheheatdependinghowhottheburnerisWhenthepeelisdoneitwillbesweetandsoftinathicksyrupStrainandleavetocoolthenstoreinanairtightcontainerItwillkeepforaboutamonth

coolthenstoreinanairtightcontainerItwillkeepforaboutamonth

EthicureanMixedSpice

10gallspiceberries2nutmegsgrated10gwholemace4gfennelseeds10gcloves4gcassia4gcardamomseeds2tspgroundcinnamon15ggranulatedsugar

Warmalltheingredientsexceptthecinnamonandsugarinaheavy-basedfryingpanuntilaverylightsmokeiscreatedandthearomasandoilsofthespicesarereleasedPlaceinaspicegrinderandblitztoafinepowderMixwiththecinnamonandsugarandthenstoreinanairtightcontainerItwillkeepforabout3months

SaltCaramel

200gcastersugar2tspflakyseasalt

Heattheovento120degCGasMarkfrac12Placeasiliconebakingmatonabakingsheetandputitintheoven(ifyoudonrsquothaveasiliconebakingmatputalayerofbakingparchmentonthetrayonceithasbeenheated)Haveasmallbowlofcoldwaterandasiliconepastrybrushattheready

Putthesugarintoameticulouslycleanfryingpanadd4tablespoonsofwaterandstiruntiltherearenodrypatchesofsugarPlaceonamedium-highheatandcookwithoutstirringThemixturewillstarttobubbleAsthetemperaturerisesthesugarwillbegintocarameliseincertainareasofthepanYoumayalsonoticeitbeginningtocrystallisearoundtheedgesofthe

panYoumayalsonoticeitbeginningtocrystallisearoundtheedgesofthepanIfleftuncheckedtheseareascancausethesyruptocrystalliseresultinginapanfullofgrainysugarcrystalsndashnotthedesiredresultTopreventthisbrushcoldwateroverthesecrystallisedpatchesontheedgesofthepanusingasiliconepastrybrushWhenthesugarbeginstocaramelisegentlyscrapethesedarkeningpatchesintothecentreofthepanusingaheatproofspatulaKeepgentlymovinganypatchesofcaramelisingsugarintoareasthatarenotcaramelisingThiswillensureanevencolourWhenthecaramelhasturnedagooddeepgoldencolour(ifyouuseasugarthermometeritwillregister178ndash180degCndashhoweveryoucankeepcheckingthetruecolourbydrippingafewdropsontoawhiteplate)pouritimmediatelyontoonesideofthesiliconematPreheatingthematmeansthatthecarameldoesnrsquotcooldownsoquicklywhenyoupouritonandthisallowsyoutotiltthebakingsheetinordertoachieveaverythinlayerofcaramelYouneedtoworkquicklyhoweverAssoonasthesugarbeginstocoolitwillstarttosetSprinkletheseasaltoverthecaramelwhileitisstillhot

Letthecaramelcooltoroomtemperaturethensnapitinto25ndash5cmshardsItshouldbebrittleWhenyoueatititshouldbecrunchyandnotsticktoyourteethKeepinanairtightcontainerinacooldryplaceforupto2weeks(caramelissusceptibletomoisturecontentandwillgoverystickyifexposedtoit)

Rhubarbsyrup

MAKESENOUGHTOFILLA700MLBOTTLE

500grhubarbwashedtrimmedandcutinto5cmpieces350gsugar

Placetherhubarbinasaucepanwith200mlcoldwaterBringtotheboilthenreducetoasimmerandcookuntilallofthejuicefromtherhubarbhasbeenextractedandtherhubarbisalmostcompletelybrokendownthiswilltakearound30minutes(pleasedonotwastethecookedrhubarbtryitwithporridgeorabowlofyoghurt)

StrainthecookedrhubarbthroughapieceofmuslinitcanbeleftforafewhoursPlacethestrainedliquidinacleansaucepanaddthesugarandbringtoasimmertodissolvethesugarforaround5minutesPourthehotliquidintoasterilisedbottleOnceopenedrefrigerateandconsumewithin2weeks

FRUITVINEGARS

Anyonewithaninterestinfoodhistoryandtheeffectcertainingredientshavehadonourcookingwouldagreethattheinventionofvinegarchangedtheculinarymapbeyond

recognitionTheoriginsofvinegardatebacktotheMiddleAgeswhenitsimportancecentredonitbeingatoolforfoodpreservation

PreservingfoodwascrucialforsurvivalparticularlyincountriespronetomoreextremeweatherVinegaralsohadthehighly

desirablequalityofbeingasubstituteforwinewhendilutedwithwaterwhichisperhapswhyRomansoldiersinsistedonitbeingpartoftheirrations(Brothwell1969pages160ndash2)AtthattimevinegarwasmanufacturedfromwinethathadgoneflatAncient

RomancookeryrecordssuchasApiciusafamousRomancollectioncompiledinthe4thor5thCenturyADmention

plentyofusesforvinegarAndsoitwasthattheimaginativelygluttonousRomansstartedusingvinegarasmuchmorethanapreservecreatingthenowcommonsaladdressingSuchwastheRomansrsquoloveofvinegarthattheymadesurethatnothingwaseatenwithoutasauceordressingTheobsessionwithvinegar

seemedtohavecarriedthroughtoElizabethantimeswhentherewereplentyofreportsoftheoverlyenthusiasticuseofvinegarinBritishcookingAfamousItaliannamedCastelvetromadea

pointofcomplainingaboutthestateofthesaladsinthiscountrywhichhefoundwereservedswimminginvinegarwithouteithersaltoroil(Wilson1973pages363ndash4)TheBritishindeedcameupwithSalamagundya17th-centurysaladinwhichvegetablesweredressedwithvinegaroilandsugar

(Wilson1973page360)

FriendsandSuppliersThissectionisdedicatedtopeoplewehavehadthepleasureofworkingwithoverthelastfewyearsmanyofwhomshareourbeliefsinsustainabilityandpreservingthethingsweenjoyforfuturegenerationsAshridgeCiderwwwashridgecidercoukAdrianBootswwwwalkthemendipscomAlbamClothingwwwalbamclothingcomAspallCiderVinegarwwwaspallcoukBarbourwwwbarbourcomBoxSteamBrewerywwwboxsteambrewerycoukBristolBeerFactorywwwbristolbeerfactorycoukBritishSaffronwwwbritishsaffroncoukCabritoGoatMeatwwwcabritogoatmeatcoukVincentCastellanorsquosCharcuteriewwwcastellanoscoukWilliamCatchesidewwwcatchesidecutlerycomChandosDeliwwwchandosdelicom

ChaseDistillerywwwchasedistillerycoukCheddarAleswwwcheddaralescoukTheCommunityFarmwwwthecommunityfarmcoukCorksofCothamwwwcorksofcomMarkCoxatBarleyWoodKitchenGardenwwwwalledgardencoukgarden1htmlCreedyCarverwwwcreedycarvercoukCrookandChurnDairy(JohnandKateHowell)ApplinsFarmBlandfordForumDorsetDT118RAJonathanCrumprsquosCheeseOrchardHouseStandishParkFarmOxlynchStonehouseGloucestershireGL103DGOtterFarm(MarkDiacono)wwwotterfarmcoukDiscoveryTortillaswwwdiscoveryfoodscoukDorsetBlueVinnywwwdorsetbluemoonfruitcomTheWatercressCompanywwwthewatercresscompanycoukEssentialTradingwwwessential-tradingcoukhomeaspxTheEthicalShellfishCompanywwwethicalshellfishcompanycoukTheExmouthMusselCompanywwwexmouthmusselscom

ExtractCoffeeRoasterswwwextractcoffeecoukFentimanswwwfentimanscomFinisterre(EthicalColdWaterSurfCompany)wwwfinisterreukcomFinisterreisacold-watersurfcompanythatthinksdifferentlyraisesquestionsaboutthesupplychainandthewayproductsaremanufacturedandbelievesthatgreatproductscanbebornofresponsiblepracticesTheirsuitskeepIaintoasty-warmontheoccasionalchancehegoesforasurfForagerwwwforagerorgukForestProducewwwforestproducecomFusselswwwfusselsfinefoodscoukTheGingerBeerPlantwwwgingerbeerplantnetGampGGoodfellowrsquoswwwgoodfshopnetGoodfellowampGoodfellowLtdaresuppliersofexclusivetablewarechefsrsquoclothingkitchenequipmentandspecialisttoolsformoleculargastronomyTheycandesignandproduceuniquetablewareproductsWethankthemfortheirsupportinprovidingsomeoftheplatesforourphotographyGransforsBrukswwwgransforscomHarkilaofScandanaviawwwharkilaukcoukSwedishclothingcompanyforgearthathaskeptJackandMatthewwarmanddryoncountlesshuntingtripsHillFarmDairy(forStawleygoatsrsquocheese)wwwhillfarmdairycouk

HobbsHouseBakerywwwhobbshousebakerycoukHomewoodCheeseswwwhomewoodcheesescoukHurstwoodFarmwwwcobnutoilcoukKeenrsquosCheddarLtdwwwkeenscheddarcoukKernowsashimiwwwkernowsashimicoukMrsKirkhamrsquoswwwmrskirkhamscomLaverstokeParkFarmwwwlaverstokeparkcoukLeCreusetwwwlecreusetcoukLongleyFarmwwwlongleyfarmcomJekkarsquosHerbFarmwwwjekkasherbfarmcomMadgettrsquosFarmwwwmadgettsfarmcoukMarkrsquosBreadwwwmarksbreadcoukMendipMomentswwwmendipmomentscoukMontezumarsquoswwwmontezumascoukMoorBeerwwwmoorbeercouk

NativeBreedsCurersandCharcutierswwwnativebreedscoukTheCornishShellfishCompanyLtdwwwcornishshellfishcoukCornish-assuredoysterstheyspecialiseinthesupplyofoystersspeciallypurifiedtoremovethethreatofnorovirusfoodpoisoningNealrsquosYardCreamerywwwnealsyardcreamerycoukNorfolkSaffronwwwnorfolksaffroncoukManorFarm(forOgleshieldcheese)wwwmontgomerycheesecoukOldTownwwwold-towncoukOliverHarveyBritishChefrsquosWhiteswwwoliverharveycoukOriginalBeanswwworiginalbeanscomOstlersCloudyCiderVinegarwwwostlerscidermillcoukPerryrsquosCiderwwwperryscidercoukPowellsofOlvestonwwwpowellsofolvestoncomPrestigeEventEquipmentHirewwwprestigehirebizRationalSelf-CookingCentrewwwrationalcombiovenscomSharphamParkwwwsharphamparkcom

SipsmithGinwwwsipsmithcomSomersetCheeseCompanywwwsomersetcheesecoukSomersetCiderBrandywwwciderbrandycoukSomersetFarmersrsquoMarketswwwsomersetfarmersmarketscoukSticheltonwwwsticheltoncoukTheStorywwwthestorygroupcoukThaliCafewwwthethalicafecoukToastwwwtoastcoukThanksToastandspecialthankstoLaraSmrtnikTrethowanrsquosDairywwwtrethowansdairycoukTruffleHunterwwwtrufflehuntercoukUltracomidawwwultracomidacoukVillageMaidwwwvillagemaidcheesecoukWestCountryWaterBuffalowwwwestcountrywaterbuffalocomWestCroftCiderwwwburnham-on-seacoukwest_croft_ciderWestcombeDairywwwwestcombedairycom

TheWildBeerCowwwwildbeercocomWildStoveswwwwildstovescoukWingsofStMaweswwwwingofstmawescoukWoottonOrganicDairywwwwootton-dairycomPaulAYoungwwwpaulayoungcouk

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McVicarJekkaJekkarsquosCompleteHerbBook(KyleCathie2009)

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Acknowledgements

FRIENDSANDFAMILY

TheEthicureanwouldliketothankfirstandforemostElenaWendyandPhilforbelievinginusevenwhenthiswasjustadistantdreamandfortheirhelpwithrunningTheEthicurean(veryoftenrequestedatshortnotice)AdditionallywewouldliketothankPhilandElenafortheiroutstandingmanagementoftheapplejuiceproductionWewouldalsoliketothankMarkandLindaCoxLillyTessaTricksforherenthusiasmhardworkandgreatresearchskillsCharlieTricksAndrewElderforbeinglovelycommittedandhard-workingSamLaceyandBigMikeCanningsIanandMoniqueHillmanandJosephSarahLavelleJasonIngramJaineBevanJaneMiddletonDavidEldridgeTimBatesIvortheBeeKeeperAdrianBootsCleaveNursery-AlanDownEmmaDibbenKatieChardandPaulFarrelforlendingustheirprintsBillatClayabilityHelenDowningFionaBeckettPaulWinch-FurnessBrettEllisandlastbutnotleastOchothedog(bestdog)

PaucirclawouldliketothankElenandashthisbookwouldnothaveseenthelightofdaywithoutyouYoursupportwithadminOchorsquoswalksapplepressingproofreadingandgenerationofideashasbeeninvaluabletothisprojectThanksforalwaysbelievinginmeandsupportingeverythingIdoIwouldnotbewhereIamifitwasnrsquotforyouPablondashsomeofmyhappiestmomentsandthebestchildhoodfoodmemoriesaresharedwithyouYouhavekeptmesanethroughoutthewritingofthisbookyouaremybestfriendandfavouritebrotherPoppyndashyoursmilingpresenceandrelentlessoptimismmakemefeelluckytobeinyourlifeMariondashfortakingmetoallthoserestaurantsforteachingmeaboutregionalityoffoodinMexicoforshowingmethevalueofgoodfoodandensuringatalltimesthatweatethebestmealsthatwepossiblycouldforshowingmethatfoodisworthfeelingpassionateaboutMikendashIhavenodoubtthatyouwouldhavedoneanythinginyourpowertosupportthisprojectandIknowyouwouldhavebeenproudAbueTomasitandashthereisnobettercookthanyouThemealsyoupreparedforus

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IainwouldliketothankMichelleyourtirelesssupportthislastyearhasmeantmoretomethanIcouldeversayandIthankyouimmenselyThewritingofthisbookwouldnothavebeenpossiblewithoutyouPeterIwouldnotbewhereIamhadwenotmetWhatyoudoisphenomenalandIameternallygratefultohavethetwoofyouinmylifeTomysistersTaraandEllieBothofyouhavebeennothingbutsupportiveandlovingsincethedayIwasbornThewordlsquoprivilegedrsquodoesnrsquotevencomeclosewhentalkingaboutyouToallofthebossaiirsquosAndyArranBurgerFrithGuyImogenLaurenLoisMattyNikkiPeeeeteRobSwainandZolaSomeofthefondestmemoriesIhaveinmylifeareofbeingwithallofyouIamashappyasIcanbewhenwersquoretogetherandIloveyouallThanksforyoursupportandIdelightinthemomentwersquorenexttogetherTOClareyourfriendshiphasbeenoneofthemostmeaningfulthingsIhaveexperiencedSorrythatcommunicationcanbedistantbutknowthatyouarealwaysinmyhearthowevermanymilesseparateusThanksforoveradecadeofsupportandsmilesToRachelandallofthePerrysyourwelcomingofmeintoyourfamilywasoneofthemostsignificanteventsinmylifeYourhumblewayoflifehowcloseyouallareandhowdeliciousyourfoodwasissomethingIwillalwaysstrivetoachievethroughoutmylifelsquoThankyoursquocouldnevercomeclosetowhatIwanttosaybutthankyounonethelessItwasatrulyhappytimeformeMatthewforinvitingmetostartthisbusinesswithyouIameternallygratefulYoulikemyothersiblingsarealegendandIloveyouandtoPaucirclaandJackIloveyoubothTherearenothreepeopleIwouldratherworkthishardwithItrsquosbeenmorethanamammothundertakingbutitrsquosthebestthingwersquovedonetodateHerersquostoasuccessfulandhappybusinessDadyoursupportandabilitytomakeyourchildrensmileispraiseworthyIamgratefultohavehadyouasarolemodelandIhopetoseemoreofyouinthefutureToMumthankyouforbringingthebestfamilyintoexistenceIlovebothofyouToTobyDanandallthePumpHousecrewtoJoshHollyandallatthePonyampTrapthanksforwelcomingusnewcomersontotheBristolsceneWelookforwardtoworkingwithyouinthefutureTothegreatchefsbeforemethatwerewillingtosharetheirknowledgeyouneverceasetoinspiremeteachmeandhelpmegrowAndfinallytotheOceanThemostbeautifulthingonthisEarthandtheplacewhereIfeelmostathome

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  • Contents
  • List of Recipes
  • About the Book
  • Title Page
  • The Ethicurean
  • Winter
    • Beetroot Carpaccio with Honeyed Walnuts
    • Duck Terrine with Cranberries and Cobnuts
    • Tandoor Scallops Celeriac Pureacutee and Pickled Rock Samphire
    • Monkfish Cheeks with Saffron Cauliflower and Aniseed
    • Roast Partridge with Bread and Cheese
    • Lambrsquos Wool
    • Janetrsquos Jungle Juice Ice with Cheddar 99 Flake
    • Rabbit Confit with Lovage Breadcrumbs
    • Confit Meats
    • Confit Tomatoes with Ruffle Basil
    • Beef Brisket Slow-roasted in Coffee Sauce with Valor Mash
    • Pigeon Breasts with Beetroot Pearl Barley and Bordelaise Sauce
    • Steamed Lemon Sole with Fondant Pink Firs Golden Beetroot and Nasturtium Remoulade
    • Sea Robin with Fennel Butter Sauce and Herbed Pink Firs
    • Pineapple Turmeric and Ginger Glazed Ham with lsquoPiccalillirsquo
    • Glazed Star Anise Carrots
    • Eccles Cakes with Dorset Blue Vinny Sauce
    • Milk Stout and Chocolate Steamed Pudding
    • Pedro Ximeacutenez and Whisky with Vermouth Smoke
    • Fennel Seed and Ginger Hot Chocolate
      • Spring
        • Nettle Soup with Caerphilly
        • St Georgersquos Mushrooms with Asparagus Ribwort Plantain Mushroom Jelly and Apple Jelly
        • Sweet-cure Mackerel with Morels Spelt Soda Bread and Horseradish
        • Asparagus with Toasted Sesame and Hollandaise Sauce
        • Clear Ham Hock Broth with Poached Eggs
        • Caerphilly and Cider Welsh Rabbit
        • Smoked Chipotle Chillies
        • Smoked Roe Deer Loin with Wild Rocket Clamped Carrots Honeyed Walnuts and Wood Sorrel
        • Curd Cheese Cucumber Flat Bean Aniseed and Sesame
        • Crab Salad with New Potatoes Pickled Carrot and Smoked Paprika Mayonnaise
        • Spring Radishes with Anchovy Cregraveme Fraiche
        • Trout with Kelp and Shiitake Mushroom Stock Rice Flat Beans and Sea Kale
        • Goat Meatballs Mash Lovage Butter and Mustard Greens
        • Ox Tongue with Swede Parsley and Cider Vinegar
        • Ox Tongue with Cauliflower Gilliflower and Hazelnuts
        • Salt Marsh Lamb with Tidal Greens
        • Steamed Rabbit Pudding
        • Pork Juniper and Black IPA Pie
        • Pearl Barley with Old Demdike and St Georgersquos Mushroom
        • Rhubarb and Custard
        • Chocolate and Salt Caramel Brownies with Cherry and Elderflower Sauce
        • Elderflower syrup
        • Strawberry and Rose Lemonade Pudding with Saffron and Cider Brandy Custard
        • The Ethicurean Vermouth Botanicals
        • Vermouth
        • Rose Lemonade
        • The Ethicurean Cocktail
        • Negroni
          • Summer
            • Figs Wrapped in Pork Belly with Lavender and Buffalo Mozzarella
            • Caramelised Chicory Labneh and Macerated Strawberry Salad
            • Roasted Tomato and Liquorice Basil Soup
            • Roasted Courgette and Cobnut Soup with Labneh and Ginger Turmeric and Mint Dressing
            • Soused Mackerel Carrot Fennel and Saffron with Gooseberry and Mint Granita
            • Chilled Beetroot Soup Par-cel Walnut Ice Cream and Roasted Cobnut Oil
            • Ewersquos-curd-stuffed Courgette Flowers with Fennel Sherbet
            • Globe Artichokes with Hollandaise Sauce and Sumac
            • Pea Goat Bacon and Lovage Broth
            • Scallops in Puff Pastry with Vermouth and Fennel Cream
            • Pickled Pollack with Flame-roasted Peppers Cucumber Pul Biber Chilli and Water Mint
            • Dorset Blue Vinny and Flame-roasted Peppers with Charred Little Gem
            • John Dory with Morel Mushrooms Flat Beans Haricot Beans and Ham Hock Stock
            • Mussels in Cider with Tarragon
            • Steamed Megrim Sole with Rock Samphire and Sumac-braised Fennel
            • Pickled rock samphire
            • Water Buffalo Fillet with Clear Chicken Stock Tarragon and Salt-baked Baby Beets
            • Barbecued Horse Mackerel with Cobnut Salbitxada Sauce
            • Fennel and Sumac Gravad Trout
            • White Raspberry Loganberry and Ewersquos Yoghurt Terrine with Sweet Cicely Confit
            • Elderflower Sorbet with Fennel Sherbet and Wild Strawberries
            • Pineapple Weed Jelly
            • Elderflower and Lavender Marshmallows
            • Spiced Ginger Beer
            • Summer Elder
            • Raw Rhubarb Smash
            • Double Sloe Gin and Tonic
              • Autumn
                • Goat Bacon with Ox Tongue Nasturtiums and Clarified Ham Broth
                • Wild Mushrooms with Sourdough Toast and Thyme Stichelton Cregraveme Fraicircche
                • Wild Mushroom and Spelt Pressed Terrine with Spinach and Rainbow Chard
                • Swedish Knaumlckebroumld with Cottage Cheese Pickled Beetroot Caraway Beetroot Crisps and Tom Thumb Lettuce
                • Roast Crown Prince Soup with Tandoori Spice Walnut Oil and Crisp Sage Leaves
                • Salt-baked Celeriac Portobello Mushroom and Apple Soup
                • Deep-fried Aubergine with Rose Hip Syrup
                • Pear Native Nape Hazelnut Cardamom and Ewersquos Cheese Salad
                • Preserved Duck Leg Chorizo Butter Bean and Confit Tomato Pot Stew with Yin Yang Beans
                • Wood Pigeon Breasts with Persian Spiced Bulgar Wheat Cucumber Aniseed and Black Cabbage
                • Chicken Mole
                • Venison Cider and Quince Stew with Herbed Butter Dumplings
                • Fish Soup with Spiced Heritage Tomatoes Fennel Seed and English Truffle Oil Toast
                • Slow-braised Goatrsquos Leg with Cider Shallots Lentils and Glazed Carrots
                • Pheasant Kiev with Winter Tarragon and Strawberry Myrtle
                • Rare Roast Sirloin of Beef with Bordelaise Sauce Black Cabbage and Truffle Cauliflower
                • Almond Pear Cardamom and Chocolate Cake
                • Sea Buckthorn Sorbet with Apple and Vanilla Pureacutee Toffee Apple and Caramel Lemon Balm
                • Beetroot Apple and Cobnut Crumble with Roasted White Chocolate Spoom
                • Simple syrups for sorbets and spooms
                • Spoom
                • Roasted White Chocolate Spoom
                • Cherry Spoom
                • Italian Meringue
                • Lordrsquos Lovage
                • Apple Flip
                • The Orchard at Barley Wood
                • Salsify and Ogle Shield Gratin
                • Vincent Castellanorsquos Venison Chorizo
                  • Basics
                  • List of Suppliers
                  • Bibliography
                  • Acknowledgements
                  • Copyright
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