Textiles – GCSE coursework.

Abbie Sidaway.

What are the issues associated with the textile industry?

I will go onto the internet and look at ethical and environmental information. I will look at books and leaflets that are in the textiles room. Also I will look on ‘student read’ as I know there is lots of good information on there.

What different techniques could I use on my product?

I will research on the internet about different techniques and methods I will look in a range of fashion books and look at the different techniques which have

been used on other clothing.

What products have been designed already which do not harm people or environment?

I will visit a shop which is located in Selby, this shop specialises in recycled materials which are designed into new dresses. I will look on the internet and find out about already existing product.

Design brief ..Design and make a product from textiles that will not harm people or environment. The product will be sold on a internet site which specialises in products that are environmentally friendly, for e.g. I could use materials, from organic or ethical sources or with logos and designs that highlight ethical messages.

What fashion designers are big and are into using old fabrics?

I will research on the internet about some different designers. Also what

things they have achieved. I will be going on a school trip soon to “the clothes show” which has a lot of designers clothes, I will look at the components used for the existing products. This will increase my knowledge of fashion.

What I already know –•I know that the “Clothes Show live” has college fashion shows there so whilst im there, I will take some photos of the clothes and analyse the designs..

•How they’ve designed it?

•What techniques have been used

•What materials have been used?

By doing this it will help me understand how designers design their clothes.

Also it will help me as I it will help me to improve my own designs.

There are also stands which sell retro & reused materials clothes which will give me some good ideas for when I design my product.

Mood Board.

‘INSPIR

E’

‘HARMONIZING’

Research into Sustainability and

TextilesThese outfits have been designed using old, used materials. This means it is sustainable as they have used recycled materials rather than new.

The first outfit has been made from old newspapers. The second dress has been made from old coats. Obviously these are not to wear but for the media. The designers are trying to get it across that it is easy to reuse your old products.

The issuesI have decided to research about the environment issues in the textile fashion industry, as I am using denim in my design. Designers and customers are not thinking about the materials they are using/buying. While designers are making products the environment is getting seriously damaged. Whilst I was researching about the fashion industry I found out, how we was damaging our environment how we could prevent this in the future.

Child labour - Whilst researching about the issues in the fashion industry I found out that young children are from poor countries. In a single workshop, 12 boys between the ages of 8 and 16 will work for 14–16 hours daily, collecting cotton from cotton plants, and sewing things getting only the smallest of wages.

Tie Dyeing – Clothing manufactures are dumping the dyes into our rivers destroying our wildlife and rivers. The fish in the rivers are dying and the rivers are turning into sludge. If we are going to save our rivers and wildlife we need to stop dumping dye into our rivers, so if we recycle our old clothes and encourage designers to use recycled materials we will not have to use dye, which end up in our rivers.

Clothes Show Live 2009.

Visiting ‘Clothe Show Live’ helped me with this project as it gave me an idea of what to do with my product. Watching the fashion show gave me knowledge about the current fashion, and what is in at the moment.

When I was looking around at the college stalls it made me notice how much effort is needed. I could see the detail that had been put into the garments, which made it look professional.

I noticed that there was a number of organic, and environmentally friendly clothes being sold which means there is a large market for this, and many people were prepared to buy these products.

Overall, my experience gave me a lot of ideas for my designs, I know have ideas about what colours harmonise with each other and what colours clash and what styles have a high market for.

Internet

research I have gone onto the internet and looked for college textile products to gather an idea of quality, style and techniques of product been made in the current fashion

status.

Tulle skirts have seemed to dominate the work of these students at colleges. I have noticed the high nature of quality in these garments, and also the originality that has been put in to these designs. The students in colleges use a range of materials. Especially recycled and environmentally friendly materials which I have found are commonly used. I know this as I have recently visited ‘The Clothes Show Live’ where there is a lot of college fashion show. One particular show the student focused on recycled materials but still kept the uniqueness and stylish factor to their garments.

Jackson Pollack - Inspiration

The work of Jackson PollackPaul Jackson Pollock (January 28, 1912 – August 11, 1956) was an influential American painter and a major figure in the abstract expressionist movement.

The design of his painting had no relation to the shape or size of the canvas -- indeed in the finished work the canvas was sometimes docked or trimmed to suit the image. All these characteristics were important for the new American painting which matured in the late 1940s and early 1950s. He was strongly supported by advanced critics, but was also subject to much abuse and sarcasm as the leader of a still little comprehended style; in 1956 Time magazine called him `Jack the Dripper'.

Jackson Pollack inspired me as his art work reflect freedom, he used the paint to express his feelings. He did his art work by dripping the paint in a way to make it look crazy, his work was very unique.

Analysis of research.I decided to create a mood board to give me an ideas for my bodice

which I am currently designing. I used modern and quirky photos with harmonizing colours of blue tones which really inspired me, and gave me ideas for what I want my garment to look like.

My visit to ‘The Clothes Show Live’ gave me more knowledge about the current fashion and an incite into colleges and I got to see the designs and the process of how they design, create and make their designs unique. Also it gave me an idea of what the current fashion price range is at, I found that garments at the moment are at a reasonable price, and is affordable.

The tulle skirt is a very popular garment and is found in most high streets, I know this because whilst visiting London in the holidays, I went into the high street shops including, River island, Top shop and H&M. After researching about the issues which the fashion industry is facing I now understand about how fashion and the process of garment making is affecting the environment. In further research I found out how other designers over come this by using fair trade materials and also using recycled materials.

I will make sure that my product is environmentally friendly. I found internet research useful because it was really quick and I could do it at school, and could access a lot of information at once. I was also able to look at construction, detail, fabrics, components, target groups and finally cost. The pieces that I copy and pasted where linked to recycling in a very high profile way.

The research I did that was primary was the college student stand. I did this piece of research because I found that I was inspired by the quality and abstract nature of the pieces. Overall, I feel that my research albeit was limited it was all relevant and informative.

Design SpecificationFunction/Purpose.• The product will be designed and made for any teenage girls, aged around 14-18years old.• It will be a fashionable and detailed bodice which would be worn for special occasions'.

• It will make teenagers feel feminine and feel like they are unique. ‘stand out from a crowd.’

Aesthetic and functional characteristics.• The bodice will be unique and creative, the main colours which I will be using are;BluesGreensPurples.- The top must be practical and comfortable to wear.- The components which I will be using must be strong, so that nothing falls off.- It must appeal to the target market, that I am aiming at, teenagers to young professional and modern women.- The final design will be created by using a mixture of techniques such as:Different types of sewing techniquesBead workAppliquéDye effects.

Target market and consumer requirements.- This product are aimed at females aged14-30- It is required to be fashionable, and to be a fashion statement piece.- It must be reasonably priced for the target market.- The bodice must suit the seasons fashion trend, and could be marketed with a range of garments and accessories so that it

looks convincing to the buyer. - The garment will be made to last and will be ‘fit for the purpose’.

Time and resources• Resources used to make this product must be colourful and good quality.• Resources must be relevantly cheap, since the product id going to be a mass product.• Resources must be simple to assemble; otherwise it would be a struggle to keep to deadlines.

Designs one Firstly, I experimented with colours and different styles. I tried to find colours which I wanted to use that harmonized. I decided to design a bodice, and use colours, Blues, Purples and Greens.

Designs Two

The first bodice design, has a lot of detail on the chest area. It would have blue frill with a light blue bow in the centre. The bodice will be very shaped by the boning.

The components which would be used on this design will be bead work. Also it will be made by using cotton dyed indigo blue, using the cold water dyeing method

This design would have a range of techniques, it would be a simple but stylish bodice. Down the front a zip will be attached to give the top a modern feel to it.

Designs Three

This design is one of my favourites as I think it would be very marketable, and would sell in today's fashion industry. This bodice is simple but stylish. Also it is very sustainable, because it can be easily recycled, as it would be made my denim.

I decided to make this design as it inspired me, also I think the front panel would look very abstract. I could be creative with this design. This design is also is very marketable.

These pieces have been created using TIE DIE.

The method –

First I cut out a piece of fabric, then I scrunched it up into a ball and tied elastic bands around randomly. When I had done this and made sure the bands were tight enough, I dropped them into a dish of die. I used three different tones of blue to create this effect.

After this i then left the fabric to dry I repeated this process another time to give it more colour.

I found this method easy to do and every time it comes out different this is what I like about this type of style, its unique itself every time. I would like to use this in my product as I like the effect that is given.

The method – firstly, I cut out a piece of denim. I then cut out the separate pieces which I had drawn out on the fabric. Then I placed the pieces onto the denim and sew it on with a zigzag stitch.This was my first time using appliqué, I found it hard at first but after a while I got used to it. I could improve this method by practicing and taking more time on it. Then I would get a better and neater finished product.

Appliqué

Techniques – cording and sewing using the

embellishers and computerised sewing machine

Components

Evaluation of techniques and suggested alternativesI think sewing on the cording went well, to say it was my first try. This technique looks abstract which makes it different and unique. I think this styles fits the look I am going for very well. I believe this will appeal to my target market. The colours and textures I have used work well together and create a unique, crazy style.

This is my first try at the pattern.

Washing symbols;

Washing at 30ºCCotton wash

Synthetic wash

Wool wash

Hand wash

Do not wash

Tumble dry

Iron on low heat

Wash Care Labels.

Production Plan Materials Jobs to do Health and safety Industrial practice Quality Control

•Fabric•Dye•Salt•Water•Bowl

Put the material into the bowl with the die in, and leave for 24hours to soak.

Make sure gloves and apron is worn.

Large VATS would be used to dye large rolls of fabric at once. This is submersed in the dye and then dried very quickly and rolled.

Make sure the material is hard wearing so it last a reasonable time. Also that the die is spread equally.

•Tailors chalk.•Pins•Pattern paper.•Body form•Scissors

Used the pins to attach the pattern paper to the body form, and marked with tailors chalk. Then carefully cut around leaving a 1cm space all around the edge.

Take care with scissors, Try not to stab yourself with the pins when attaching to the body form.

Design team working in a design office would make a toile, mock up of the first design proposal. This would be completed in the same way that I have completed the task.

Check that all the pieces are the correct sizes, so they all sew together and make the correct pattern. Also cut the pattern paper straight to maintain the quality.

•Front panel•Sewing machine.•Blue cotton•Yarn•Pins

Measure the strips of yarn to size and then sew onto the front panel using a zigzag stitch making sure it is in line with the pins.

Take the pins out as sewing. Keep hands away from needle.

A range of specialist sewers would use special machines that are high powered and very fast to complete this process.

Stitch sewn correctly to make sure the strip of yarn are secure. This will make it hard wearing.

•Pattern pieces•Pins •Sewing machine.•Blue cotton

Pin all the pattern pieces together to make sure everything is in the right place then sew together using a straight stitch.

Take pins out as you go along. Take care whilst sewing to prevent injuries.

A team of sewers would work in a production team or sub-assembly team to sew all the parts. They would have high speed machines with special feature that are capable of sewing very fast, with quality and have many features. The workers would be trained for this job and would have a high level of skill.

Take care to keep in line with the pins whilst sewing to make sure the pattern sizes keep the correct shape. To keep the quality at a high standard.

•Interfacing•Pins•Pattern Pieces •Sewing machine.•Scissors

Attach the pattern pieces to the interfacing with the pins and cut to size. Then sew together.

Lay both pieces, the same size. Together face to face sew down the outer edge and repeat with the other pieces of fabric.

As above Make sure that when sewing together the pieces are sewn on strongly to ensure the product will be long lasting. Use fabric that is easy to wash and doesn’t fade colour out of the product,

Production plan two.Materials Jobs to do Health and safety Industrial Practice Quality Control

•Eyelets.•Hammer•Hole Punch..•Ruler •Pen

Measure equally both sides of the back piece, and mark with a pen. Use the hole punch to make the holes, and place the two eyelet pieces in the hole and hammer into place. Repeat this for all.

Be careful with hammer to make sure you don’t hit your fingers, when using the hole punch again keep finger away.

A finishing team would do this as part of the last process on a batch production line

Keep the eyelet in line with the markings. When hammering the eyelets on make sure it is done properly and securely. SO that no frayed bits of fabric are loose.

•Dark blue ribbon•Light blue ribbon•Scissors

Work out the sizes of the ribbon by weaving it through the eyelets with a cris cross, and then cut to appropriate size.

Whilst cutting keep hand away. In case of cuts.

Again the finishing team would complete this using a work schedule

Make sure when cutting the ribbon that it doesn’t leave it frayed. Make sure they are both long enough to fit the bodice.

•material.•Pattern pieces.•Iron•Ruler.•Scissors

Measure the pattern piece and cut out the right size strip of material about 5cm wide. This need to be repeated for each side.

Cut these out neatly, then iron in half down the middle.

Take care with scissors. When using iron make sure it is at the right temperature. When not in use leave the iron stood up. Ensure the iron is switched off and put out of way.

Again the team in the finishing department would complete this process. They would be specialist workers that have been trained in this field.

•Sewing machine•Blue cotton•Bones •Scissors.

Cut the bones to size.

And place inside the strip and sew down both sides until secure.

Keep fingers our of way when sewing and cutting.

As above Make sure the pieces are sewn in the right place at the right angle to keep good quality. Also Make sure the stitch used is strong so that it lasts.

•Blue beads•Green beads.•Cotton•Needle•Scissors.

Choose the beads, and thread onto the cotton at sew into place. Tie in a knot to secure it.

As above. As above Check that the beads are secure so there they do not fall off, whilst been worn or washed.

•Body form•Finished product•Camera

Place finished product onto body form and fasten ribbon. Take finishing photo’s

The packing and final team would have the job of pressing using body forms to ensure the shape stays

Check the product fits the body form, and it is fastened tightly.

Bodice.Working drawing

40◦c

Pattern pieces and layout plan

Materials + componentsEyelets

Stainless steel

Cotton

Yard

Boning

ribbon

Machine + stitch settings

Zig Zag

Straight.

CostingsCotton 1m = £1.99

Cord = 50p

Bones = £1.00

Yarn = 50p

Ribbon = £1.00

Beads =£1.50

TOTAL = £6.49

Interfacing

Beading

Wash care labels.

Front

BackFront

Side panels.

Back panels.

Flow Chart.

START.

Pin pattern pieces together.

Check both sides are equal

Sew pattern pieces.

Pin lining.

Make sure front and back are equal

Sew front and

back together.

Turn the correct way

Iron and add eyelets.

FINISH.

NONO

Components: used;

Turquoise ribbon

Navy ribbon

Silver SS eyelets

Nylon bonding

Navy/deep blue treads

Computerised machine

Front

Back

Criteria that I will use to mark the

product.

Grade

Modification

Overall Finished Appearance.

5 I could have taken more time to add more beading onto the bodice. I could also have attached some straps onto the top, to keep in place.

Theme Inspired 5 I think my product could link to Jackson Pollack's work, as it is very creative and abstract.

The stitch effects and techniques

4 I could have used some different stitches to give it more detail. And used stronger fabrics to make it sturdier.

The quality of the appliqué

5 The cord which was sewn on was a great success as they are very secure onto the fabric.

Marketability of your product

4 I think this is a very stylish product, and would easily sell in today's market.

The colours and textures

6 I could have maybe used an extra colour to separate the colours which would have made it stand out more.

Dimensional Stability

6 It’s a neat, tidy product with simple style with a very abstract decoration.

Recycling Potential 5

Handle of the fabrics 5 The middle panel has quite a rough texture however the rest of the material has a soft texture and will be soft on the skin, therefore the product will be comfortable to wear.

Appropriate use of components

5 I am quite happy with the components I have used, like the eyelets at the back I think they work very well.

Appropriate fabrics in the construction

4 I think that the materials which I have used where appropriate as they worked well together. And have the bodice structure.

Tensile strength of the stitches

4 The stitch I used was a simple straight stitch. If I could do the stitches again I would make sure I used a stronger stitch so it would last longer.

Overall quality of the outcome

5

Public Opinion.When my product was finished,

I went into the public and asked what they thought.

“I think this style is very marketable and would be suitable for teenagers as it is very fashionable.”

“This stand out from a crowd. The techniques which have been use are very well done. I love the detail which has been added to the front panel.”

“Very attractive, I would defiantly love to see my girlfriend wearing this. I love the colours and it is sassy and sexy. I think this is very successful. “

Final Product

Bones

Pattern pieces.

Final Product

Cord.

Eyelets and Ribbon.

Final Evaluation

At the beginning of this project is set out to work with a team of two other students to make a range of products which could be worn together or separate. My job was to design and make the top part of the outfit. After research and a lot of sketches I decided to make a bodice. This bodice was going to be something different and quirky, this is when I started to research different artist. I saw a range of artwork by Jackson Pollack which really inspired me and gave me some crazy ideas of what I could create. After looking on the internet at various websites and also looking in the school textile book, I decided to use different shades and tones of blue, green. I found that they complemented each other and work well together. As well as been inspired by Jackson Pollack, The colours of the sea also inspired me. I like the different of tones as I have shown in my mood board. Deciding on the components I was going to use the easy part, I knew exactly what I wanted to use however I did research the components to see how they worked and the best way to use them.

Before starting on the techniques I used I looked around at exciting product, magazines and again the internet to see what works together and which techniques I would like to use. There were certain aspects of the research that was really helpful, the internet was a real help as used this type of research a lot and it gave me load of information. Going to the Clothes Show in Birmingham was one of the best experiences and it gave me so much knowledge about the current fashion and also what college students are up to and how they produce their products. The fashion shows which was going on there also gave me a lot of ideas of what style or look I wanted to betray. The only thing I regret was not taking any photos of the shows, this would have gave me a lot of help and more to work with.

In the making of my product there way one problem, when I had sewn all the bones into place there where not quite the same on each side, to overcome this problem I had to unstitch the fabric on one side and re sewn it into place. The reason why I changed this was that if each side wasn’t the same the quality of my product would have decreased and I wanted the quality of my Bodice to be at the highest.

In the end I decided to work on my own instead of working as a group as one of the students recently moved away and we decided that if we still did it in a group of two the product would not be as detailed as we would be doing no one but two products. My bodice came out just how I imagined it, and the front panel looks really abstract, this makes the whole bodice unique.

To make sure that my product appealed to the target market I asked some public what they though about my product and if they would buy it if sold in the high street. The results I got back where positive with some comments about what would make it even better, If this bodice was to be sold as a ‘small batch’ then I would change some things on the production line, The only thing which I would change would to make the side panels a little longer to cover the hips, I initially wanted the bodice to finish at the hips but I must have made a measuring error and it now goes over the hips instead. I believe this bodice could be part of a clothes range and could easily be made in different colours.

If my product was to be made in the industry it would be made exactly how have done but in larger sizes and also with special machines, It would be made on a production line with machinery to speed up the production. My product does suit the design brief, it is environmentally friendly, as it is made from all 100% natural fabrics and also it has a long life span.