ForArcherandElisabeth

Textcopyright©2010byChadRobertson.Photographscopyright©2010byEricWolfingerandChadRobertson.Allrightsreserved.Nopartofthisbookmaybereproducedinanyformwithoutwrittenpermissionfromthepublisher.

ISBN978-1-4521-0028-9

TheLibraryofCongresshaspreviouslycatalogedthistitleunderISBN978-0-8118-7041-2

DesignedbyVANESSADINA.FoodandpropstylingbyERICWOLFINGERandCHADROBERTSON.TypesettingbyJANISREED.Photographonpage29byCatherineKarnow.Frontcoverimageandphotographsonpages19,34,35,78,115,136,138,150,178,210,216,222,224,236,239,and252byChadRobertson.Photographsonpages18and42bySuzanneYacovetti.IllustrationsbyDavidWilson.Page9:LesCanotiersdelaMeurthe,ÉmileFriant,1888.CourtesyofLeMuséedel’ÉcoledeNancy.

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TABLEOFCONTENTS

BreadinTime

CHAPTER1BasicCountryBread

CHAPTER2SemolinaandWhole-WheatBreads

CHAPTER3BaguettesandEnrichedBreads

CHAPTER4Days-OldBread

Acknowledgments

Index

TableofEquivalents

AbouttheAuthors

BreadinTimeMystrongestinspirationcamenotfromrealbreadbutfromimages—imagesofatimeandplacewhenbreadwasthefoundationofamealandatthecenterofdailylife.Thereisapaintingofboatersgatheredatariversidetable.Atthehead,alargecrustyloafheldclosetotheheartiscutintowedgestocommencethemeal.ThisscenewaspaintedalittlemorethanacenturyagoinFrance,whenaworker’sportionofbreadwastwopoundsperday,andbreadwasoneverytableatmealtime.Thiswaselementalbreadthatsustainedgenerations.Tofindthisbread,Iwouldhavetolearnmakeit.Thusbeganmysearchforacertainloafwithanoldsoul.

Iopenedmyfirstbakerynearlyfifteenyearsagoafterthreeyearsofformalapprenticeshipandwiththevisionofmyidealloaftakingshape.Eachloafwouldtellthehandsofthebakerwhomadeit,andeachwouldalsohaveitsownexpression—likeaclayvesselpulledfromthekilnafterfiring.Theloafwouldbebakeddark,andthesubstantial,blisteredcrustwouldholdsomegivewhilecontainingavoluptuous,wildlyopencrumbwiththesweetcharacterofnaturalfermentationandasubtlebalancedacidity.Thebreadwouldbeajoytoeatfreshandwouldkeepwellforaweek.

AlthoughIhadapprenticedwithsomeofthefinestartisanbakersintheUnitedStatesandFrance,nonehadtaughtmehowtomaketheloafIwasenvisioning.Instead,theygavemethetoolstogetthere.

Frommyfirstmentor,Ilearnedtoapproachbreadmakingasbothacraftandaphilosophyofingredientsandhowtheyinteract.WiththatunderstandingcamethepromisethatIcouldfindmywaytoanybreadIimagined.“Doughisdough,”helikedtosay,implyingthatallbreadsarecloselyrelated—eventheonesthatseemedquitedifferent.

Afteryearsoflearning,IrealizedIwouldnevergetthereworkingunderthetutelageofsomeoneelse.Iwastwenty-threewhenElisabeth,nowmywife,andIbuiltourfirstsmallbakeshopwiththehelpoffriendsnorthofSanFrancisco,alongthecoastofTomalesBay.BakeshopwasanaptnamefortheroomwhereIwouldspendthenextsixyearsworking.Wecutaholeinthewallandbuiltawood-firedovenoutsidefacingintotheshop.Theshopwasonestep

fromthehomewherewelived.Technically,Iwasahomebakerwithabigoven.IwouldhavetomakehundredsofloavesadayforyearsinasortofsolitarybakingtrancetoachievewhatIhadinmymind’seye.

Istartedwiththewood-firedovenandnomixer.Therigorofmixingthreehundredpoundsofdoughbyhandrequiredasofterdough,soIaddedmorewater.

Duringmyfirstapprenticeship,Ihadworkedwithwetdoughs,sothiswasfamiliarterritory.Theovenwasfiredalldayasthedoughwasmixed,shaped,andsettoriseoncloths.Theloaveswerereadytobakeafewhoursaftershaping,andIbakedthroughthenight.Butaftermonthswithlittlesleep,Ichangedmycourse.Openingthewindowsintheeveningcooledthedoughdownandslowedthefinalrisingsignificantly.Thebakecouldwaituntilthenextmorning.

Iheldclosetomyideal,butaftersuchalongrise,theresultingbreadwassometimesmoresourthanIwanted.Tocounterthis,Ibeganusingmywildyeaststarteratayounger,moremildstageuntilIachievedthecomplexflavorsIwasafterwiththerightbalanceofacidity.Now,Icouldgetadecentnight’srest,freedfromthe“lifeofbats.”TheonlyproblemwiththisnewschedulewasthatIwouldhavetobakelaterinthedayandsellbreadintheafternoon.Sothat’swhatIdid:gainingthepleasuresofwarmbreadfordinnerandtoastforbreakfast.Afteradecadeofworkingalone,Itookonmyfirstapprentices.Ihadspentalmosthalfmylifeobsessingoverbread;itwasnowsomethingIdid,notsomethingItalkedabout.Makingbreadhadbecomeamostlysilentmeditationforme,andIlikeditthatway.Itwouldtakeafortuitoustradeagreementtodrawmeout.

In2005,EricWolfingercametoworkatTartinewithnobakingexperience.Hewasontracktobecomingachefbeforehedecidedtotryhishandatbaking.EricgrewupsurfinginSouthernCaliforniaandnoticedthatIhadanidealsurfingschedule:startingmydayaroundnoonandfinishingintheearlyevening.Hesuggestedatrade.Heofferedtoteachmetosurf,andIwouldteachhimtomakebread.Eric’spersistenceworemedown,andIagreedtotrysurfing.

Bythetimemysoreribshadhealedfrommyfirstsurfingsession,Ihadanewobsession,andhewastheonetotalkto.Hefollowedmyeverysurfingquestionwithanotherquestionaboutbread.Duringthoselongdrivesupanddownthecoast,weoftenhadtwoconversationsgoingonatonce.Monthsandyearspassedaswelearnedtogether,surfinginthemorningandbakingintheafternoon.

Luckyforme,Ericstuckaroundlongenoughtolearntomakegreatbread,gainingthekeenunderstandingofmyapproachthatwouldmakeourcollaborationonthisbookpossible.

Overthecourseoftime,Iarticulatedwhathadbeenonlyinmyheadandredefinedformyselfthecraftofbreadmaking.Theideawastodistillthecontentofourdailydiscussionsintotechniquesthatwouldworkwellforthehomebaker—tomakeabaker’sguidebook.

Traditional,intuitivebreadmakingdoesnotlenditselfnaturallytoawrittenrecipe.Beforethestudyofmicrobiology,bakersunderstoodthesubtletiesoftheprocess.Thenatureoffermentationwassecondnaturetotheirown.Thatis,theyunderstoodfermentationinrelationtotherhythmsoftheirownlives.Itisnecessarilythesamewithmodernartisanbakers.Allpointsleadbacktothestarterandtheleavenasoriginoftheprocess,andthewaythattheyareusedtomanagefermentationdeterminestheoutcome.Then,asnow,themostimportantaspectofmakingbreadwasmanagingthestagesoffermentationbyknowingwhattolookfor.Thevisualelementwouldbeanintegralpartofthisbookproject.TherewasnoquestioninmymindthatErichadtodocumentourwork.Hewasuniquelyqualifiedbyhisexperience,hisdailybakingshift,andhispassionforphotography.TartineBreadwouldhavetobephotographedthroughouttheprocessofbuildingthebook.Thiswouldrequireanotheryear’scommitmentfromEric.

WhenIstarteddescribinghowtomakethebasicloaf,Iknewitwouldtakesomeworktotranslatemymethodintoaprocessformakingsomethingcomparableathome.Erichadbeenbakingonhisdaysoffathomeforyears,usingacast-ironcombocookerasabakingvesselwithexcellentresults.Hesuggestedwesetupaprivateblogforahandfulofbreadtesters,sendthemallcombocookers,andengageinavirtualdialogue—sharingphotosofhome-bakedbread,answeringquestions,andaddingtoourinstructionswheretheyneededmoreclarity.

Mostly,Iexpecteditwouldbeahelpfulprogresscheck,asweinitiallyintendedtoposteveryrecipefortestingaswecompletedit.Butwithinthefirstweek,wediscoveredtwothings:therewerenotenoughhoursinthedayforustomaintainaninteractiveblog,andmanyofourtestbakersachieved,intheirfirstattempt,breadathomethatlookedasifithadcomeoutofourownovensonagoodday.Wehadexpectedneitherofthesethings,butthelatterwasarevelation.Indeed,theexemplarybreadweshowinthefirstchapterisahome-bakedtesterloaf.

Westayedincontactwithafewofthebreadtesters,whocontinuedtobakeregularly.Weansweredquestionsasthetesterscameupwiththeirownschedules,modifyingtimesandtemperaturessothatmakingbreadfitintotheirlives.Somemadebreadsthatwereclosetotheoriginalmold,whileothersmadedifferent,equallydeliciousbreadstosuittheirneedsandtheirvision.

Thiswasexactlywhatwehadhopedfor,andIdecidedtoprofilesomeofourtestersinthisbook.Relatingourtesters’real-lifeexperiences,Idiscusshowtheyalteredourapproachtogetdistinctlydifferentbreads.

The“TartineBread”approachfollowsaloosesetofconceptsthatweintroduceinasingle“basicrecipe”andthenbuildonthroughoutthebook.Asyougainanunderstandingofhowbread“works,”youwillbeabletomakeadjustmentsintimingandtechniquetoachieveabroadrangeofresults.Thegoalofmakingbreadwithasatisfyingdepthofflavor,agoodcrust,andamoist,supplecrumbisaconstant.

WebeginbyshowingyouhowtomakealeavenandthenhowtomakeourTartineBasicCountryBreadathome.Sincebreadmakinghasalwaysbeenavisuallearningexperienceforme,Iwantedaheavilyphotographicdepictionoftheprocesstostart.JacquesPepin’sbooksLaTechniqueandLaMéthodewerestronginspirations.Learningacraftisasmuchaboutcopyingasitisabout

understanding,asmuchvisualasitisintellectual.Asanapprentice,Iwatchedbakersmakingbreadandthencleanedupafterthem.EventuallyIgotmyhandsinthedough.Hereyou’lldoboth.

Weexploredthenotionofstartingthebookwithayeastedbreadrecipetoencouragethosewhomightbeintimidatedbybeginningwithawildyeaststarter.Wereasonedthatiftherisewaslongandslow,wewouldgetsomethingrespectabletostartwith,andthendiveintomakinganaturalleavenforamorechallengingbutrewardingloaf.Wefoundthatthedifferenceinthetimeittakestomakeawell-fermentedyeastedbreadandanaturalleavenedonewasnegligible.Butthedifferenceinqualitywasconsiderable.Thestraightyeastedbreadlackedeverythingweloveabouttheoriginal.Itsimplydidnothavethesavororthestayingpower.

TartineBreadisdevotedtotheuseofnaturalleaven,oftencalledsourdough.Ipromoteusinga“younger”leavenwithverylittleacidity.It’sasweet-smelling,yeastierrelativeofthemoresourandvinegary-smellingsourdough.Whenmakingbreadwithnothingmorethanflour,water,andsalt,aspiringbakersshouldapplytheirattentiontolearninghowtocontroltheprocessoffermentation.Theconceptisnotwithoutprecedent.

Upuntilthe1930s,Frenchbakersusednaturalleaveninbread,croissants,andbrioche.Aftercommercialyeastbecameavailable,theskilledpracticeofcaringforandusingnaturalleavendeclined.Conveniencegainedtheupperhand,andflavorwassacrificed.Withthisshift,thekeystoneinthetraditionofbakingwaslargelylost.Tasteabriochebreadskillfullymadewithnaturalleavenandcompareittothestraight-yeastedversion.Thesubstantialgainsinsavor,keepingqualities,andversatileuseswiththenaturalleavenjustifythetimeittakestobuildandcareforone.Oncethenaturalleavenisthriving,youcanuseitanywaythatsuitsyourtasteandyourschedule.

Beginningwiththebasicrecipe,subsequentbreadsprogressfromtheoriginal,buildingonwhatyouhavelearnedinthepreviousrecipes.Allthebreadrecipesarebasedononekilogramofflour,soyouwillbeabletocompareandcontrastdifferencesinratiosandeffectsinpractice.Bymovingpartsaroundslightly,shiftingratios,andadjustinghandling,weshowyouhowtomovefromtheTartineloaftopizzaandthentobaguette,brioche,croissant,andEnglishmuffins.Thisiswhereyouseethegearsofthebasicrecipeinmotion.Whetheryouridealbreadisathin,crispflatbreadoraclassicbaguette,thebasicrecipewillremain“north.”Allvariationsaretracedoutfromthebasiccountryrecipe,andtheoriginsaretracedbacktoit.Thisisabakingguidebooktogetyouwhereyouwanttogo.

BOURDON

Tartinebreadbeganin1992,whenIvisitedabakeryintheBerkshireMountainsofwesternMassachusettsafewmonthsbeforegraduatingfromtheCulinaryInstituteofAmericainNewYork.Ontheway,IconfidedtoElisabethPrueitt,myclassmateatthetime,thenotionthatImightwanttobecomeabreadbaker.

LizandIarrivedlateonemorningwhilethebakersweredeepintotheirshift.AmoderninterpretationofSatieechoedthroughthevastbrickbarnasthefinalloaveswerepulledfromtheovenandpackedintoanoverflowingdeliverytruck.Thelastbakeronshiftwouldmakedeliveriestosurroundingtowns.

ThisplaceseemedabetterfitthanthefrenetickitchensIhadworkedinbefore.Thehonesthand-craftandgenerousambiencestruckachordwithmyWestTexasupbringingamonggenerationsofwesternbootandsaddlemakers.

Whilemyculinaryschoolclassmatessoughtpositionswithwell-knownchefsinManhattan,IsettledonanapprenticeshipwithRichardBourdon,aclassicallytrainedconcertmusicianturnedbaker.RichardhadquittheFrenchhorntomakebreadinthelate1970sandpackedhisfamilyforatour(mostlyonfoot)ofbakeriesintheFrenchAlps.WhenImethimin1992,hewasrenownedasoneofthefirstbakersintheUnitedStatestorevivetheuseofapreindustrialFrenchbread-makingtechniqueusingextremelywetdoughslowlyrisenwithawildyeastleaven.Richard’sbreadwasnotoriouslydifficulttoprepareandhadgainedacultfollowingamongthegrowingranksofartisanbakersontheEastCoast.

Theaffablebakeracceptedmyrequesttoapprenticeonthespot,andofferedLizandmeroomandboardinthefarmhousewherehelivedwithhiswifeandfivechildren.Lizbeganworkingasapastrychefinanearbyrestaurant,andIsoonfoundmyselfworkingtwelve-hourshiftsforweeks.WhatIleftintheevening,Iwouldreturntointhemorningbeforesunrise.Itwasalong,hotsummerworkingalonewithBourdon.Wemixed,shaped,andpulledthreethousandloavesadayfromtheoven,followedwithadeliveryroute.Ihadfoundwhatwouldbecomemylife’sprofession.

Richard’sgoalwastomake“goodfood.”Hewantedtoproducehealthfulbread,andforhimthatmeantmixingtheflourwithenoughwatertohydrateandfullycookthestarchtomakeitmoredigestible.“Trytocookacupofriceinhalfacupofwater,”hesaidtoillustratethepoint.Heinsistedonfermentinghis

doughwithawildyeastnaturalleavenoveralongtimebecausehebelievedtheprocessunlockedthenutritioninwholegrainsthatwereotherwiseindigestible.Theresultinghighhydrationincombinationwithalong,naturalfermentationcreatedadistinctivelydeliciousloafofbread.Richard’sbreadwasexceptionallymoistandtender,andhadadepthofflavorachievedonlyafteralong,slowriseusingnaturalleaven.Hisbreadwasindeedgoodfood,buthecouldtellIwasstillsearching.Aftertwoyears,heencouragedmetomoveonandkeeplearning.

PROVENCEANDSAVOIE

FollowingashortstopinNorthernCalifornia,LizandIsetofffortheFrenchAlpstofindthebakeraboutwhomRichardhadsooftenspoken.Iwasonthetrailofmymentor’smentor.FromstoriesRichardhadtold,myheadwasfilledwithvisionsofgiantwood-firedovensandadoughsowetithadtobeshapedinmidairbeforelandingontheworkbench.TheSorcerer’sApprenticecametomind.Inreality,thebroomwouldsoonbeinmyhands,andI’dbesweepingthebakeshopeveryhour.

ThoughwedidnotcampintheforestontheoutskirtsoftownasRichardhad,weimmersedourselvesinFrenchprovinciallife—workingfirstinProvencewithDanielColinandthenontotheBaugesAlpesrangeintheSavoiewithPatrickLePort.

AftermeetingusatthetrainstationwhenwearrivedinProvence,Danielfoundusaplacetostaywithafriendwhoownedanoldwinechâteau.Thechâteauhadfallenintopartialruinsurroundedbyhectaresofgnarledgrapevines.Hetoldusthattherewereafewpeoplelivingontheproperty,andthatitwasnowa“naturaliste”retreat.Thechâteauwascalledthe“mariefée,”anew-ageamalgamofWoodstock-eraAmericana,SaiBabamysticism,andProvençalhillbilly.

Werodeourbicyclesthroughancientvineyardsandpastshepherdsonourwaytothebakeryeachmorning.Lizmadepastry,workingalongsidethepâtissier,whileIworkedwiththeboulangers.DanieltookituponhimselftoteachmethehistoryofAmericanjazz.HisvinylcollectionofMiles,Monk,Mingus,Coltrane,andBillEvanswasexhaustive.Welivedonpainintégrale,jarsofpâté,andlocalroséwine,whichwascheaperthanwater.Itwasaspecialtime.

Forthefirstfewweeks,l’americainswepttheshopandmaderoundsofinstantcoffeewithhottapwater.Soon,though,myskillsattheshapingtableearnedmyacceptance.IrealizedhowwellpreparedIwasafterworkingthathardseasonwithRichard.TheFrenchmenweresurprisedthatIcouldproperlyhandletheirslackdough,whichwascommonperhapsinthehome-bakingtraditionbutdifficulttomakeonthelargerproductionscaleofawholesalebakery.Availabletocovershifts,Ibecameanunexpectedwindfallintheever-

presentlogisticalpuzzleofschedulingvacationtimeinaFrenchbakerywhileremainingopenforbusiness,andIfastfoundmyselfinthecompanyoffriends.WespenthalfayearatDaniel’sBoulangerieArtisanale.

AswewerereadyingtoleavefortheAlps,Danielofferedusaride.HewantedtodetourthroughBordeauxtovisithisagingfather,andwehadthetime.Thedayweleft,hemadeasmallbatchofbreadspeciallyforhisfather.Itwasawetterdoughthanusual,withalongbulkrise,whichhebakedhotanddark.Thecrumbhadhugepearlescentholes,andthecrustcrackedasitcooled.Thebreadseemedaliveevenasitcooledandsettled.Whilehepackedthebreadforthejourney,Danielcommentedthat“thisisthewayI’dalwaysmakebreadformyself—butmycustomerswouldnotbuyit.”Itwasradicalbread—astudyinextremes—andIwasmuchclosertofindingtheloafwithanoldsoul.

TheloavesthatDanielhadbakedforhisfatherheldstronginmymind.Ihadnotseenbreadlikethatanywherebefore.SpeedingwestacrossFranceinhisPeugeotturbowagonfilledwithbread,hetoldmeaboutalonebakerinasmallvillagenearthecoastwhomadethesamebreadhehadjustmadeforhisfather.

Thebakerywasaone-roomshopintheMèdocwithawood-firedovenandplankshelvingonthewallforbread.Abellhungoutsidethedoor,andintheafternoonitwasrungtosignalthathotbreadwasbeingpulledfromtheoven—justintimefordinner.ThisturnedthebakingscheduleIhadknownupsidedown.Freshbreadfordinnerwasperfectlyidealandwhyworkallnighttohavefreshbreadinthemorning,whentoastisatreatuntoitself?Nevergettinghisname,Ialwaysspokeofhimas“theawesomebaker.”Yearslater,recallinghimindesperationwouldhelpmefindalivablescheduleIhadforgotexisted.

OnthewaytotheSavoie,DanielalsotookmetomeetMonsieurVoisin,themanwhohaddesignedandbuiltDanielandPatrick’sstacked-deckwood-firedovens,aswellasrebuildingthecenturiesoldovenof“theawesomebaker.”Thoughhisnamemeans“neighbor,”voisinisthelastwordonemightusetodescribeamanwhohadnevertraveledoutsideFranceandpassionatelydespisedforeigners.Heenjoyedhisownhouse-curedfoiegraswithaglassofSauternesforbreakfastand,inexplicably,invitedustojoinhim.Weateenpleinairnexttoawoodenrowboatplantedthickwithfraisesdesbois,whilediscussingFrenchoven-buildinghistory.

DanieldroppedusoffatPatrickLePort’sbakery,BoulangerieSavoyarde,wherewewerereceivedlikefamilyreturningfromtravels.Alpinemuesliandpetitépeautre,locallygrownspeltbread,sustainedus,withtheoccasional

raclettebingeonoffnights.Thekindnessandgenerosityofourhostswerehumbling.

Welovedthework,thefood,andtheafternoonhikestovisitnearbyalpageswheresomeofthebakerstendedcowsandgoatsathighelevationformakingtraditionalregional,seasonalcheeses.Ourfellowbakershadacceptedus,andwebegantosettlein.Wetalkedaboutstaying,yetmyFrenchcopainsadvisedagainstit.TheyrecognizedmydedicationasayoungbakerandtoldmetoreturntotheStatesandbuildanoventomakemyownbread.MytimespentlearninginFrancewasessentialandinstructive,allowingmetoplacewhatBourdonhadtaughtmeintoahistoricalcontextoftradition.

InFranceatthetime,apprenticebakerswouldworktwentyyearsmorebeforehavingtheopportunitytoopentheirownplaces.Itwasagainstgenerationsoftraditionforayoungbakertostrikeoutonhisown.Frenchbakerswereconstrainedbytraditionsthatboundthemtomakethetypesofbreadpeopleexpectedofthem.Abigloaf,bakeddarkwithhugeholes,didnotamountto“goodbread”inthismodernage;thoughthattoowouldchangeoverthenextdecade.

POINTREYES

Backhome,wereasoned,IwouldbefreetomakewhateverIwanted.Themarketwoulddeterminemyfate.ItooktheiradvicetoheartandreluctantlyreturnedtoNorthernCaliforniain1994.Borrowingmoneytoliveon,wehadseverecultureshockthatmadeuswanttorunrightbacktoFrance.Thefeelingwasshort-lived,though,andwehadworktodo.

LizandIknewofanovenbuilderresidinginthehillsaboveTomalesBaynorthofSanFrancisco.AlanScottlivedinalargefarmhouseonaranchwithawood-firedovenoutback.Bythistime,hehadbeenbuildingovensforafewdecadesandwasrenownedforhissimple,elegantdesign:averyefficient,clean-burningmasonryoven.

WestMarinCounty,alongthecoastofBolinasandTomalesBay,isfilledwithhistoriccattleranchesandorganicandbiodynamicsmallfarmsandvineyards.ThispartofthecountryhadavibrantfoodculturewithenoughcharmsoftheFrenchcountrysidewesomissed.

IcontactedAlan,andheofferedusroomandboardifwewouldhelparoundthehouseandproperty.Eagertotryhisoven,Ibeganbakingbreadafewdaysaweekattheranch.Alanwashappytoseehisoveninregularuse.He

insistedongrindinghisownflourandoftenmixedabatchofhisexcellentDesembread,anatural-leavenedwholegrainbreadmadefromfreshlygroundwheatberries,tobakewhiletheovenwashot.Alan’sDesemonthelunchtabletoldusthathe’dbeenbusygrindinggrainandtendinghisleavens.

Alandidn’twasteheat,usingtheovenfordaysasitcooledtocookpotsofbeans,dryvegetablesandherbs,andtomakestocksoftoastedgrainmuesliandgranola.

Overabreakfastofwholegrainbutteredtoastandsteel-cutoats—hisstalwartmorningroutine—weaskedAlan’sadviceabouthowwemightgetasmallbakerystartedclosertotown.Straightaway,heofferedtobuildusanovenandloanusthemoneytogetgoing.Histrustandgenerositywereimmediate.

WemovedfromtheranchinMarshalltoahouseinPointReyesonmainstreetRoute1,acrossfromCowgirlCreamery,thenstillunderconstruction.WithAlandirecting,friendsandneighborshelpedusbuildawood-burningmasonryovennexttoourhome.Weweresoonbarteringfreshbreadforwildsalmon,abalone,oysters,ducks,eggs,freshfruit,andgardenvegetables.Lizmadepastry,usingtheovenearlybeforeitwasfiredhotorafterithadcooledsufficiently.Continuingmyfocusonbread,Idrewonthetraditionalbread-makingdisciplineIhadlearnedduringmyapprenticeshipintheBerkshiresandinFrance—whilestillsearchingfortheloafwithanoldsoul.

InFrance,Ihadfalleninlovewiththesweet,creamyflavorofbreadfermentedwithwildyeastleaventhatcontradictsthewidespreadperceptionof“sourdough.”Iwantedanythingbutsourbread.Iwantedadeepauburncrusttoshatterbetweentheteeth,givingwaytotender,pearlescentcrumb.Iwantedmybaker’ssignature,thescoremadewithabladeontop,toriseandfissure,andthecrusttosetwithdangerousedges.Rusticformsfromtheforgeoftheovenwouldbethefinalexpressionoftheprocess.Togainafollowingfortheselarge,crustyloaves,Iwouldmakesuretobringbreadthatwasstillwarmfromtheoventothemarkets.

IbeganbydoingthingsthewayIhadlearned,butmypresentcircumstancesweredifferentandrequiredadjustments.Ihadnomixer.Kneadinghundredsofpoundsofdoughdailybyhandmighthavebeenanimpossibletaskforalonebaker,butthewetdoughwascomparativelyeasytodevelopbyhand.I“kneaded”thedoughinbucketsbygentlyfoldingitatregularintervals.Followingthewisdomofnineteenth-centuryFrenchmatronsandthecenturies-oldbakingtraditionoftroughkneading,Ilettimeandfermentationdothework.

DuringthoseearlyyearsinPointReyes,thesmallbakerywasalaboratoryforthreeingredientsandaworldofpossibility:flour,water,andcoarsegraysaltfromtheGuérandeinsouthwestFrance.Imademostdiscoveriesbyexhaustivetrialanderror,overtimegatheringeachlessonintoasimpleapproachbasedonwhatIhadlearned.Theapproachwasnotrigidlyscientific,butresultsweredocumentedbyconciseshorthandnotesandphotosofthebreadondayswhensomethingnotablewasachievedincrustorcrumb.AfteryearsofbakinginPointReyes,ImadetheloafIwasafter.

Ourcountryloafwasdistinctinamarketalreadysaturatedbyartisanbakers,andpeoplesoontooknotice.Thelabhadbecomeanatelier.Bakinggrewfromthreetofivetosevendaysaweektomakeendsmeet.

WhileImadelocaldeliveriesonfootinPointReyes,Lizdroveour’53ChevywagonpackedwithpastriesandwarmbreadtotheBerkeleyfarmers’market,wherepeoplehadlinedupinthelotanhourbefore.

Aftersixyearsinthecountryside,LizandImovedoursmallbusinessforashorttimetoMillValley,andthenintoSanFrancisco.Wetookovertheleaseofanall-but-retiredcornercakebakeryandinearly2002openedourdoorsasTartine.

COUNTRYBREADINTHECITY

Since2002,Tartine,andourwholeblockofrestaurantsandshops,hasbecomeahubofMissionlife.We’vemaintainedourtraditionof“bakinginrealtime.”Ourbakerspullhotcroissantsandquichesfromtheovenstartingjustbeforeweopenandintotheearlyafternoon.Themorningproductionoccupiesthedeckovenuntil2P.M.,andthebreadisbakedintheafternoon.Thefirstloavesareoutjustbefore5P.M.andsoldfreshfordinner.ProductionhasremainedonthesamesmallscalesincethefirstbakeryinPointReyes.

Thenew,urbansettingnecessitatedthetradeofourwood-firedmasonryovenforamassive,gas-fireddeckoven.Firingagasovennevermatchesthesatisfyingritualofburningwoodbutwatchingthefuelgoupinsmokehadcometoweighheavilyonme.Realtimberistoopreciousaresourcetoburninovenswhenanalternatefuelsourceisavailable.NowadaysinFranceandtherestofwesternEurope,mostofthewood-firedovensusepressedsawdust“logs”orscrapwoodleftoverfromconstructionorwoodcraft.

Anyflavorimpartedbythewoodfireisimaginary.Theinsidewallsofawood-firedoventurnblackfromthesootwhenthefirebeginstoburn.Whenthetemperaturerisesabove600°F,thesootbeginstoburnoff.Thewallsareburnedclean,andthebakersweepsandmopsthehearthbeforeloadingbread.WhenIstartedbakingyearsago,manybakersinNorthernCaliforniausedeucalyptuswoodtofiretheirovens.It’scheapandburnsespeciallydirty—buttheovenstillcomesoutclean.Thankfully,thebreadgetsnoflavorfromthewoodburned.

SomewhoknewmybreadfromPointReyeswereskepticaloftheswitchfromawood-firedoventoagas-fireddeckoven.Theyworriedthatthebreadwouldlosesomethingspecial.Iwasnotconcerned.Thekeytomakinggoodbreadisnottheoven—anyoventhatcanstoreandradiateheat,andtrapsteam,willwork.Theeventualnatureofthecrustislargelydeterminedbeforetheloafiseverbaked.

Thebaker’sskillinmanagingfermentation,notthetypeofovenused,iswhatmakesgoodbread.ThisfactmakesTartineBreadpossible.Iwouldnotattemptabookwiththehomebakerinmindiftheresultscouldneverliveuptotheimages.Theycan.Andtheywill.

Asalways,it’sinthebakers’hands.

CHAPTER1

BasicCountryBread

THISISTHEMOSTBASICRECIPEFORTHEBREADI’vebeenmakingsincethebeginninginPointReyes.Theapproachandmethodformthefoundationaltechniqueforalltheotherbreadrecipespresentedhere.ThisisthebreadImisseatingwhenawayontravels.

Theprocessissimpleandisaccompaniedbyimagesillustratingthekeysteps.Thethought,borneoutbyourtestbakers,isthatanyonecanpickupthisbookandmakeagoodloafofbreadusingthischapteralone.

Thebasicrecipeisfollowedbyanin-depthexplanationoftheprimarypartsoftheprocess,focusingonthepracticalknowledgethatwillenableyoutoexpandonthebasicrecipetomakethevariationsandtotailoryourbakingtoyourspecificneeds.IrecommendreviewingboththerecipeforBasicCountryBreadandtheBasicLoafinDepthsectionbeforemakingbread.Keepinmindthatyou’llneedtimeandexperiencebakingyourselftoreallyunderstandhowthingswork.

You’llfindthetesterprofileshereaswell.TheexcellentbreadtheymadeisasgoodasanyI’veeaten—ever.Itrusttheirbakingwillinspireyouinthesamewaythattheyinspiredme.

FortheBasicCountryBreadandtheotherbreadsinthisbook,youwillneedthefollowingkitchentools:adigitalscaleformetricmeasures,asmallscoopforflour,athermometer,awidebowlformixing,arubberspatula,adoughspatula,andabenchknife.AtTartine,weuseawidemetalbowltomixtheingredientswiththeleastamountofmess.ForbakingtheBasicCountryBreadandotherloaves,youwillneedadutchovencombocooker.Anyotherspecialequipmentisnotedintherecipewhereitisrequired.

BASICCOUNTRYBREAD

Makingbreadwithnaturalleavencanbedividedintothreebasicstages.Firstyoumustdevelopavigorousstarter.Thenyoumanagethewildyeastsandbacteriainthestarterbymaintainingaconsistentroutine,buildingtomakealeaventoraiseyourdough.Finallyyou’llshapeandbakethedoughintoaloafofbread.TherecipeforBasicCountryBreadmakes2loaves.

MakingaStarterDevelopingastarterbeginswithmakingaculture.Acultureiscreatedwhenflourandwaterarecombined,andthemicroorganisms—wildyeastsandbacteriapresentintheflour,intheair,andonthebaker’shands—begintofermentspontaneously.Afterfermentationbegins,thebaker“feeds”thecultureregularlyto“train”itintoalivelyandpredictablestarter.

1)Mix5poundsofbreadflour—halfwhiteandhalfwholewheat.Youwillusethis50/50flourblendtofeedyourcultureanddevelopyourstarter.All-purposeflourwillworkaswell.Fillasmall,clearbowlhalfwaywithlukewarmwater.Addahandfulofthe50/50flourblendtothewaterandmixwithyourhandstoachievetheconsistencyofathickbatterwithnolumps.Useadoughspatulatocleantheclumpsoffyourhandsandtidytheinsideofthebowl.Coverthebowlwithakitchentowelandplaceinacool,shadedspotfor2to3days.

2)After2to3days,checktheculturetoseeifanybubbleshaveformedaroundthesidesandonthesurface.Ifthecultureseemsinactive,letitsitforanotherdayortwo.

Bythistime,adarkcrustmayhaveformedoverthetopofthemixture,whichistypical.Pullthecrustbackandnotethearomaandbubblescausedbyfermentation.Inthisinitialstage,whentheculturesmellsstronglikestinkycheeseandtastessharplyacidic,itisveryripe.Nowitistimetodothefirstfeeding.

3)Tofeedtheculture,discardabout80percentofit.Replacethediscardedportionwithequalamountsofwaterandthe50/50flourblend.Mixtocombinejustasyoudidinstep1.Youhavenowbeguntrainingyourcultureintoastarter.

Repeatthediscardingandfeedingprocessonceevery24hoursataboutthesametimeeachday,preferablyinthemorning.Don’tworrytoomuchaboutthequantitiesofwaterandflourinthesefeedings—youwantathickbatter.Theimportantthingisthatyoufeedthestarterandpayattentiontoitsbehaviorasitdevelops.

Asthebalanceofyeastandbacteriaisestablished,thevolumeofthestarterwillincreaseforseveralhoursafterfeedingandthenbegintocollapseasthecyclewindsdown.Notehowthearomaofthestarterchangesfromstinkyandsharplyacidictosweetandmilkyjustafterthefeeding,whenthestarterisatthefreshestoryoungeststageinthecycle.“Fresh”and“young”areexpressedandunderstoodhereintwoways:1.thesweetstageofripenesshavingbeenfedthenormal20percentinoculation(2to4hours)and2.and/ormanymorehours(4to8)afterhavingbeenfedusingaverysmallinoculation(5percent),yetstillatthesamesweetripestage.Whenthestarterfermentspredictably—risingandfallingafterfeedings—youarereadytopreparealeavenandmixyourfirstbreaddough.

Keepinmindthattrainingyourstarterisaforgivingprocess.Don’tworryifyouforgettofeeditoneday;justmakesuretofeeditthenext.Theonlysurewaytomessupastarteristoneglectitforalongperiodoftimeorsubjectittoextremetemperatures.Eventhen,acycleofregularfeedingswillusuallyrestorethevitalityofyourstarter.

MakingtheLeavenandMixingtheDoughWhenyourstarterisrisingandfallinginapredictablemanner,youarenowreadytomakebread.Whenpreparingtomixadough,breadbakersuseweightmeasurements.Measuringtheflour,water,andsaltbyweightallowsthebakerto

visualizebreadrecipesasparts,orratios,ofthewhole.Asyoulearntomakeavarietyofdifferentbreadrecipes,you’llseehowcloselyrelatedtheyare.Foreaseofcalculation,thebreadrecipesthroughoutthebookusemetricweights.

1)Thenightbeforeyouplantomixthedough,discardallbut1tablespoonofthematurestarter.Feedthestarterwith200gramsofwarm(78°F)waterand200gramsofthe50/50flourblend.Coverwithakitchentowelandletthestarterriseovernightatacoolroomtemperature(65°F).Thisisyourleaven.

Bythemorning,theleavenwillbeaeratedbywildyeastactivity,andthevolumewillhaveincreasedbyabout20percent.Themostreliableindicationthatyourleavenisreadyisifitfloatsinwater,aresultofthecarbondioxidegasproducedbywildyeastactivity.Totestthereadinessofyourleaven,dropaspoonfulofitintoabowlofmoderateroom-temperaturewater.Ifitsinks,itisnotreadytouseandneedsmoretimetofermentandripen.Youcanexpeditethefermentationbyputtingtheleaveninawarmplaceandcheckingagainafterahalfhour.

Yourleavenshouldsmellsweetinanoverripe-fruitsortofway.Icallthisayoungleaven,meaningithasnotfermentedtothepointthatitsmellsvinegary.Ifyourleavendoessmellvinegaryinthemorning,youhavetwooptions.Youcanmixthedoughusingthisleaven,butwiththeexpectationthatyourbreadwilltastemoresour.Oryoucandiscardhalfoftheleavenandadd100gramsofwarmwaterand100gramsofthe50/50flourblend.Doingthisdilutestheacidityoftheleavenandgivesitfreshresourcestofermentandripen.Letthenewmixturefermentuntilitpassesthefloattest,about2hours.

2)Gathertheingredientslistedonthetableformixingthedough.Forconvenience,putthe80°Fwaterinapitcher.

Bakersthinkintermsofratiosandexpresstheseratiosaspercentages.Theflour,nomatterwhatquantityisused,istheconstant100percentagainstwhicheveryotheringredientismeasuredandconsidered.Startingwiththisbasicrecipeandcontinuingfortherestofthebook,therecipesarebasedon1,000grams(1kilogram)offlour.Thisisdesignedtohelpyouthinklikeabaker.Whenyouunderstandtheprinciplesofthebasicingredientsandhowtheyactincombination,youcanadjustrecipestogainyourowndesiredresults.

Theamountofwaterrelativetotheflouriscalledthehydrationpercentage.Doughmadewith600gramsofwaterand1,000gramsofflouris60percenthydration.Inotherwords,theamountofwateris60percentoftheweightoftheflour.Thebasiccountrydoughherewillbe75percenthydration.Thetablebelowistheformulaforthebasiccountrydoughinthischapter.Herewestartwith75percenthydration–makingthedougheasytoworkwithfromthestart.Asyougetcomfortablewithsofterdoughs,youcanincreasethepercentageofhydrationgraduallytosuityourtaste.

INGREDIENT QUANTITY BAKER’SPERCENTAGE

Water(80°F) 700gramsplus50grams 75

Leaven 200grams 20

TotalFlour 1,000grams(1kilogram) 100

WhiteFlour 900grams 90

WholeWheatFlour 100grams 10

Salt 20grams 2

3)Weigh700gramsofthe80°Fwaterandpouritintoalargemixingbowl.Addthe200gramsleavenandstirittodisperse.(Besuretosaveyourleftoverleaven—thisisnowyourstarter.Ifyouplantobakebreadeveryfewdays,continuediscardingaportionofthestarterandfeedingitdaily,asinstructedinstep3onpage46.Ifyouwanttobakeonlyintermittently,seepage71aboutmaintainingyourstarter.)

Add1,000gramsflour—900gramswhiteand100gramswholewheat—tothewaterandmixthoroughlybyhanduntilyoudonotseeanybitsofdryflour.Cleanyourhandsandthesidesofthebowlwithadoughspatula.Letthedoughrestfor25to40minutes.Donotskiptherestingperiod.Workingwiththenatureofthedough,therestingperiodallowstheproteinandstarchintheflourtoabsorbthewater,swell,andthenrelaxintoacohesivemass.

4)Aftertherestingperiod,addthe20gramssaltandthe50gramswarmwatertothedough.Incorporatethesaltbysqueezingthedoughbetweenyourfingers.Thedoughwillfirstbreakapartandthenwillre-formasyouturnitinthebowl.Don’tworryifthesaltdoesnotseemtodissolverightaway.Foldthedoughontopofitselfasshowninthephotosandtransferittoasmall,clearcontainer.AtTartine,weuseacontainermadeofamaterialwithinsulatingproperties,tomaintainthewarmtemperatureofthedoughduringthiscrucialdevelopmentstage.Ifyouhavenevermadebread,it’sinstructivetobeabletoseetheaerationofthedoughasitdevelops.Welikethickplasticbecauseitissafeandeasytoclean.Aheavyglassbowlwouldalsoworkwell.

Thedoughhasnowbegunitsfirstrise,calledthebulkfermentationorbulkrise.Thiscrucialstepshouldnotberushed,asitsprimarypurposeistodevelopflavorandstrengthinthedough.Thebulkriseishighlytemperaturesensitive,andasarule,warmerdoughfermentsfaster.AtTartine,wetrytomaintainthedoughataconstanttemperaturebetween78°and82°Ftoaccomplishthefullbulkfermentationin3to4hours.

Oneimportantconsiderationisthatasmallmassoffermentingdoughwillquicklyequalizewiththeambientroomtemperature.Thespeedoffermentationthereforegreatlydependsontheambienttemperatureofyourkitchen.However,therearemanywaystocreateamicroclimateforyourdough.Ifyourkitcheniscool—below60°F—youcanmixthedoughwithwarmerwater,90°Fforexample,andkeeptheplasticcontainercoveredwithatopmadeofalow-conductivematerialsuchaswoodorthick,hardplastic.Youcanalsouseyourovenasamakeshiftproofboxbyputtingasmallpotofboilingwaterintheoven

nearthedough.Thiswillraisetheambienttemperatureoftheoven.Alternatively,ifyouuseabakingstoneinyouroven,youcanheattheovenbrieflywiththestoneinside(onaseparateshelffromwhereyourdoughwillbe).Whenyouturntheovenoff,theheatedstonewillkeeptheovenwarm.

Ifyouwanttoleaveforafewhours,alonger,coolerbulkfermentationmightbedesirable.Page74explainshowthebread-makingprocesscanbetailoredtofityourenvironmentandschedule.

5)Usingmytechnique,you’llnoticethatthedoughisneverkneadedonaworksurface.Thedoughdevelopmentthatbakersusuallyachievebykneadingisaccomplishedherebygivingthedoughaseriesof“turns”inthebowlduringthebulkfermentation.Thisprocessiscleanerthankneadingoutsidethebowlandaccomplishesthesamedegreeofdevelopmentwithmuchlesswork.

Todoaturn,diponehandinwatertopreventthedoughfromstickingtoyouandthengrabtheundersideofthedough,stretchitup,andfolditbackovertherestofthedough.Repeatthisactiontwoorthreetimessothatallthedoughgetsevenlydeveloped.Thisisconsideredoneturn.

Duringthefirst2hoursofthebulkfermentation,givethedoughoneturneveryhalfhour.Duringthethirdhour,noticehowthedoughstartstogetbillowy,soft,andaeratedwithgas.Atthislaterstage,youshouldturnthedoughmoregentlytoavoidpressinggasoutofthedough.

Properdevelopmentduringthebulkfermentationenablesthewetdoughtoholditsshapeasaloaf,andthebakermustwatchforsignsofdevelopmentanddeterminewhenthedoughisready.Duringthefirsthourofthebulkfermentation,thedoughwillfeeldenseandheavy.Watchhowthesurfacebecomessmoothsoonafteryouturnthedough.Bytheendofthethirdhour,thedoughwillfeelaeratedandsofter.Awell-developeddoughismorecohesiveandreleasesfromthesidesofthebowlwhenyoudotheturns.Theridgesleftbytheturnwillholdtheirshapeforafewminutes.Youwillseea20to30percentincreaseinvolume.Moreairbubbleswillformalongthesidesofthecontainer.Theseareallsignsthatthedoughisreadytobedividedandshapedintoloaves.

Ifthedoughseemstobedevelopingslowly,extendthebulkfermentationtime.Watchyourdoughandbeflexible.

6)Usethedoughspatulatopullallthedoughoutofthecontainerontoanunflouredworksurface.Lightlyflourthesurfaceofthedoughanduseabenchknifetocutthedoughintotwoequalpieces(remember,thisrecipemakesenoughbreadfortwoloaves).Asyoucutthefirstpiece,usethebenchknifetoflipitsothattheflouredsiderestsontheworksurface.Dothesamewiththesecondpieceofdough.

Atthispointyouwanttoincorporateaslittleflouraspossibleintothedough.Foldthecutsideofeachpieceofdoughontoitselfsothattheflouronthesurfaceofthedoughissealedontheoutsideoftheloaf.Theoutersurfaceofthedoughwillbecomethecrust,soyoumayusemoreflouronyourhandstoavoidsticking.

Usingthebenchknifeandonehand,workeachpieceofdoughintoaroundshape.Tensionbuildswhenthedoughslightlyanchorstotheworksurfacewhileyourotateit.Bytheendoftheshaping,thedoughshouldhaveataut,smoothoutersurface.Youwanttodevelopastrongtensioninasfewmovementsaspossible—usedecisiveyetgentleforcewhilehandlingthedough.Ifthesurfacerips,youhavegonetoofarindevelopingtension.Don’tworryifitdoesrip—thisisjustanindicationyoushouldstopshapingandletthedoughrelax.

7)Afterthisinitialshaping,letbothroundsofdoughrestontheworksurfacefor20to30minutes.Thisstageiscalledthebenchrest.Makesurethedoughisnotexposedtodrafts,whichwillcoolittoomuch.Adraftalsocancauseadryskintoformonthetopofthedough,compromisingthefinalshaping.Youmayneedtolightlyflourthedoughandcoveritwithakitchentowel.

Duringthebenchrest,eachroundwillrelaxandspreadintoathickpancakeshape.Theedgearoundthecircumferenceshouldappearfatandrounded,notflatandtaperedor“dripping”offtheedge.Iftheedgeisflatandthedoughisspreadingtoomuch,theseareindicationsthatthedoughdidnotdevelopenoughtensionduringthebulkfermentation.Tocorrectthis,simplyshapeeachroundasecondtime—whichislikegivingthedoughanextraturninthecontainer.

8)Toformthefinalloafshapes,lightlyflourthetopsurfaceofthedoughrounds.Slipthebenchknifeundereachroundtoliftitofftheworksurface,takingcaretomaintaintheroundshape.Fliptheroundsothattheflouredsideisnowrestingontheworksurface.Whatwastheundersideisnowfacingup.

Thefinalshapinginvolvesperformingaseriesoffolds—takingcareasalwaysnottodeflatethedough.Thesuccessivefoldingbuildstensioninsideeachloafsothatitholdsitsformandrisessubstantiallywhenbaked.Bakerscall

thisdramaticrise“ovenspring.”First,workingwithoneroundatatime,foldthethirdofthedoughclosest

toyouupandoverthemiddlethirdoftheround.Stretchoutthedoughhorizontallytoyourrightandfoldthisrightthirdoverthecenter.Stretchthedoughtoyourleftandfoldthisthirdoverthepreviousfold.Youarenowstartingtogetaneatpackage.

Stretchoutthethirdofthedoughfarthestfromyouandfoldthisflaptowardyou,overthepreviousfolds,andanchoritinplacewithyourfingers.Thengrabthedoughnearesttoyouandwrapitupandover,whilerollingthewholepackageawayfromyousothatthesmoothundersideoftheloafisnowthetopandalltheseamsareonthebottom.

Cupyourhandsaroundthedoughandpullittowardyou,roundingitagainsttheworksurfacetotightenthetensionandstretchtheoutersurfacetoclosetheseam.Lettheshapedloafrestforaminute.Repeatthefoldingwiththeremaininground.

9)Inasmallbowl,makea50/50mixtureofriceflourandwheatflour.Linetwobasketsormediumbowlswithcleankitchentowelsandlightlyflourthetowelswiththeflourmixture.Thepatinaofflourpreventsthedoughfromstickingduringthefinalrise.Usingthebenchknife,lifteachshapedloafofftheworksurfaceandtransferittoabasketorbowlsothatthesmoothsideisdownandtheseamiscenteredandfacingup.Theloaveswillnowriseinpreparationforbaking.

Atthispointyouhavetwooptions.Thedoughcanriseatwarmroomtemperature(75–80°F)forabout3to4hoursbeforebaking.Thisiscalledthefinalrise,andat2hours,itwillyieldmild-flavoredloaves.

Ifyoudon’twanttobakerightaway,youcandelayor“retard”theprocessbyplacingthedough,inthebasketsorbowls,intherefrigeratorforupto12hours.Thecoolenvironmentslows,butdoesnotstop,thefermentation.After8to12hours,thedoughwilldevelopmorecomplexandmildlyacidicflavors.

BakingtheLoaves

1)About20minutesbeforeyouarereadytobake,placeadutchovencombocooker(bothpotandlid)intheovenandpreheattheovento500°F.Iftheshapeddoughisintherefrigerator,takeoneoftheloavesoutnow.Leavetheotherloafintherefrigeratoruntilyouaredonebakingthefirstoneandhavewipedcleanandreheatedthecombocookerandoven.

2)Whiletheovenispreheating,gatheryourtools:heavyovenmitts,riceflour,andadouble-edgerazorbladetoscorethetopofeachloafbeforeitbakes.Razorbladescanbetrickytouse,soprepareawoodensplinttoholdit.Splitawoodencoffeestirrerhalfwaydownitslength,usingtheedgeofatable.Theninsertthebladeontothesplint.

Bakerssaturatetheirovenswithsteambeforeloadingthebread.Themoistheatduringthefirst20minutesofbakingisessentialtoallowfortheexpansionoftheloaveswithoutformingacrust.AllthecharacteristicsthatIstriveforinagoodloaf—burnishedcracklingcrust,richauburncolor,openscores,andfullvolume—areenabledbythisinitialmoistheatenvironment.

Homebakersarefacedwiththechallengeofsaturatingwithsteamanovendesignedtoventilatemoisture.Ihavetriedmanymethodsforsteaminginaconventionalhomeoven,fromwettowelstoboilingpotsofwater,butnomatterhowmuchsteamwascreated,itwasimpossibletotrapenoughmoistureneededtoachieveresultsathomesimilartothosefromaprofessionalbread-bakingoven.

Thesealedenvironmentofadutchovensolvesthisproblem.Itwasawelcomediscoverythat,aswiththewoodfiredovensIhadusedforyears,adutchoventrapsenoughmoisturefromtheloafduringthefirstfewmomentsofbakingtofillwithsteam.Usingthedutchovenathomeallowsyoutobakegainingthetwomaincharacteristicsofaprofessionalbrickoven:asealedmoistchamberandstrongradiantheat.Theresultsusingadutchovenareindistinguishablefromthoseusingaprofessionalbaker’soven.

Thephotoshereshowmyfavoritedutchoven,acast-ironcombocooker.Onepartisashallowfryingpan,andtheotherisadeeppan;eachcanactasalidfortheother.Iliketobakebreadontheshallowpancoveredwiththedeeppan.Thelowwallsmakeiteasytoscoretheloafpriortobaking,andthedeeppanusedasacovergivestheloafroomtorise.Anydutchovenwillworkfine—justmakesureyoucancoverthepanwithasecurelidtoseal.

3)Dustthesurfaceofoneoftheloavesinthebasketorbowlwithriceflour.Whentheovenreaches500°F,putonthekitchenmittsandcarefullypulltheheatedshallowpanoutoftheovenandplaceitontopofthestove.Leavetheotherpan,orlid,intheoven.Pleaseexerciseextremecautionwhenhandlingthecooker.Thepansare500°Fandwillcausesevereburnsifyourhandsarenotprotected.Carefullyinvertingthebasketorbowl,turnthedoughintothehotpan.Ifthedoughstickstothetowel,usemorericeflourmixturethenexttime.

4)Theloavesarecutorscoredtohelpthemfullyexpandintheoven.Anunscoredloafwillnotrisetoitspotentialandwilloftenburstopenalongthesides.Theangle,quantity,andpatternofthescoresallaffecthowtheloafexpandsintheovenanddeterminethefinalappearanceoftheloaf.Experiencedbakersusetechniquesthatgivethemtheeffecttheywant,andtypesofscorescanbecomesignatures.Scoringisalsousedtodistinguishdifferenttypesofbreadsandtodeterminetheaestheticofthefinalloaf.

Makeyourscoringpatternontopoftheloafwiththecorneredgeoftherazorblade.Foraroundloaf,Isuggestasimplesquarewithfourcuts.Ifyouwanttheloaftohavepronounced“ears,”makeshallowcutsataverylowangle(almosthorizontal)tothedough.

Ifyourloafisinthedeeppanofthecombocookerorinaconventionaldutchoven,takecarenottoburnyourforearmsontheedgeofthehotpanwhile

scoringtheloaves.

5)Returntheshallowpanholdingtheloaftotheovenandcoverwiththedeeppan.Youcaninvertthisifthedeeppanseemstooheavy.Ifyoudoso,takecarenottoburnyourforearmsbytouchingtheedgesofthehotpanwhilescoringtheloaves.Immediatelyreducetheoventemperatureto450°F.Baketheloaffor20minutes.

6)After20minutes,wearingtheovenmitts,opentheovenandcarefullyremovethetoppan.Acloudofsteamwillbereleased.Noticethatthecolorofthecrustispaleandshiny.Thisisanindicationofawell-steamedloaf.Continuetobakethebreaduntilthecrustisthecolorofdeeplycaramelized,20to25minutes.Ifyouwantacracklingcrustthatwillstaycrisp,itisimportanttobakeyourloafoutstrong—untilitreachesaburnished,goldenbrowncolor.

7)Wearingovenmitts,removethepanfromtheovenandtransfertheloaftoaracktocool.Ifyoudon’thavearack,leantheloafonitssidesothataircancirculatearoundthebottom.Theloafwillfeellightinthehand,whichtellsyouthattherightamountofwaterhasbeencookedout.Whentappedonthebottom,theloafwillsoundhollow.

Tobakethesecondloaf,raisetheoventemperatureto500°F.Wearingovenmitts,wipeoutthecookerwithadrykitchentowelandreheatboththeshallowpanandthedeeppanfor10minutes.Followsteps3through7for

bakingthesecondloaf.Aseachbakedloafcools,thecrustcontractsslightly.Listenforafaintcracklingsound—thesongofbread.

THEBASICLOAFINDEPTH

TheEssentialIngredientsThemostelementalbreadismadefromflour,water,andsalt.ThisistheloafoftheBasicCountryBreadrecipe.Ofthesethreeingredients,flouristhemostimportantindeterminingthecharacterofthefinalloaf.Theflavorofthebreadcomesfromtheflourandtheeffectthatfermentationandthenbakinghaveonit.Whole-wheatandryefloursfermentmoreactivelythanwhitesifted-wheatflours.

Thefreshnessoftheflourhasasignificantimpactontheflavorofthefinalloaf.Forthoseofuswhodon’tmillourownflour,“fresh”flourmeansthatitwasmilledaweekortwobeforebakingwithit.Irecommendusingsustainablygrown,freshlymilledflourfromaslocallydistributedasourceasyouareableto

find.Excellentbreadcanbemadebymillingyourownflourandusingittomakebreadassoonasitcools,butnotethatfermentationwillbenoticeablymoreactivewhenfreshlymilled.

Mostwheatflourslabeled“all-purpose”willworkformakingbread.AtTartine,weperformedaseriesofbakingtestswiththreesampleflours.Onewasanationwidebrandofbleachedall-purposeflourboughtfromthecornermart;thebagwashiddenontheshelfandlookedasifithadbeensittingthereformonths.Thesecondwasanorganic“breadflour”withagoodreputation,purchasedfromanaturalfoodsstore.ThethirdwasourownblendoffloursmilledbythemillerI’veworkedwithforfifteenyears.

Tooursurprise,itwasalmostimpossibletotelltheresultingloavesapartbytheoutwardappearance.Weperformedablindtastetestandimmediatelychosethebreadmadefromourownflouroutofthegroup.Theflavorwasabsolutelydistinct.

Theloafmadefromcorner-martflourhadsomeunpleasantflavorsthatwerenotrelatedtofermentationandwerepossiblyaby-productoftheflourprocessingorofsomearomathattheflourhadabsorbedwhilesittingontheshelf.Theloafmadewithorganicflourwasgood,butthecrumbwastougherthanIlike.Throughtrialanderror,IhadlongagosettledonablendofwheatflourstoachievethetendercrumbIwant.

Sincethebeginningofmybakingdays,millersalwayswanttoshowmelabstatisticsregardingtheirflours.Althoughknowingthisinformationcanhelpquantifyyourpreferences,thereisnosubstituteformakingbreadwiththeflourandtastingtheresultstolearnifitsuitsyourtasteandyourtechnique.Numbersdon’talwaysadduptotheloafyouexpect—baking“bythenumbers”isbestlefttoindustrialoperations.

Waterthatisgoodtodrinkisfinetouseinbread.Temperatureisthemostimportantfactorregardingwater,asit’sthemostdirectwaytosetthebasetemperatureofyourdough.

AtTartine,weuseseasalt.Anysaltisfinetouseifit’sgoodtoeat.Ifusingcoarseseasalt,suchasgrosseldeGuérande,additwhenmixingthedoughinstep3onpage52,asitwilltakesometimetodissolve.Finesaltshouldbeaddedafterthedoughhasrested,asinstep4ofthesamemethod.

TheStarter

Abaker’strueskillliesinthewayheorshemanagesfermentation.Thisisthesoulofbreadmaking.

Starterisamixtureofflourandwatersettoferment.Thisfermentationhappensnaturally.Afterregular,successivefeedings,bacteriathatproducelacticandaceticacidalongwithwildyeastsestablishthemselvesasfermentingagentsinasymbioticrelationship.Sourdoughstarterculturesaroundtheworldarecloselyrelated,manyofthemhavingthesamedominantstrainsofyeastandbacteria.

Tobegin,inmyspecificapproach,therearetwoimportantthingstoconsiderregardingstarterinrelationtoleaven:

1.Amaturestartermustbeusedtomixtheleaven.Thestarterwillbestronglyripesmellingandmoderatelyacidic.

2.Theleavenmustbeusedtomixthedoughwhenitisyoungandsweetsmelling—longbeforeitstartstosmellanythinglikethestarter.

WhenItraveledbacktoFrancetofindDanielColinandPatrickLePortin2008,Ihadnotseenthemforfifteenyears.Thetalkalmostimmediatelyturnedtobreadandtheintricaciesoftheleavenswewereeachusing.IhadbroughtphotosofthebreadIwasmaking,andDanielandPatrickwantedtoknowthefeedingschedulesandpercentagesIwasworkingwithatTartine.

WhenIdescribedtheyoung,sweet-smellingliquidnaturalleaven,Patricksmiledand,reachingintoacoolchamber,pulledoutasmallwhitebuckettoshowme.Hesaidhehadbeenexperimentingforsometime,butwasnotyetabletousethistypeofstartertoleaventhebreadtohisliking.Incredibly,itwasthesamestarterthatIhadbeenusingformanyyears,startinginPointReyes,andthesameoneIusenowinSanFrancisco.Thetwostartersmusthavebeensupportingthesamemicroflora,asthearomaandflavorwereidentical.Indeed,afterdiscussingourmaintenance,wediscoveredwewereonthesamefeedingschedule.

Wildyeastsareonthegrain,onthebaker’shandsand,toalesserextent,intheair.Thebacteria,whichneedtobenourished,arelivingmicroorganismsthateatsimplesugarsandexcretelacticandaceticacidsaswaste.Wildyeastseatdifferentsugarsandproducecarbondioxideduringfermentation.Theratiooflacticacidtoaceticacidproducedisaffectedbythetemperatureoftheenvironmentinwhichthestarterismaintained,thepercentageoftheseedamount(whatyoustartwith),andthefrequencyofthefeedings.Refreshinga

starteronaregularschedulewiththesameamountandblendofflourwhilestoringthestarterinatemperature-stableenvironment(ideally65°to75°F)willtrainitintoapredictableandlivelynaturalleaven.

Startersthatarestoredathigherambienttemperatures(notrefrigerated)andaremoreliquidfavorlacticacidproductionoveraceticacidproduction.Theoverallacidload,orconcentrationofacid,inthefinalloafisresponsibleforthesourflavor.Acidloadbeginswhenthefreshleavenisseededwithanalreadyacidifiedportionofstarter.AtTartine,wepromotetheflavorofthemildlacticacidoverthevinegaryaceticacidbycontrollingtheproductionandimportationoftheseacidsduringthefeedingandfermentationstages.Wealwaysfeedatmoderateroomtemperaturesusingasmallseedamount(lessacidtransfer),andwefeedoften—afewtimesperdaydependingontheseason.

Stronglyacidicbreadoccurswhenahighpercentageofacidicleavenisusedinthedoughand/ortherisingtimesareoverlylong,eitherduringthebulkfermentationorduringthefinalrise.

Storingthestarterunderrefrigerationregularlyorforweeksatatimewillpromotebacteriaandyeastthatthriveatlowertemperatures;favoringtheproductionofaceticacid.Torestorealess-sourflavorbalance,afterthestarterisremovedfromtherefrigerator,muchofitshouldbediscarded.Theremainder,about20percent,isusedtoseedthenextfeedingtomakeafreshstarter.Discardabout80percentoftherefrigeratedstarterandaddequalamountsofwaterandthe50/50flourblend,followingstep3onpage46.

Theroleofthestarteristodevelopstrengthandacidity.Inthesubsequentleavenbuilding,thisstrength,butnottheacidity,istransferredtothelargermassofdough.Theripe,acidicstarterconditionsthegluteninabeneficialwaybyaddingstrength,buttheamountissmallenoughthatitdoesnotaddanintenseacidflavortothedough.

TheLeavenFloral,fresh,creamy,silky,sweet,milky—thesearethequalitiesthatyouwanttodevelopintheleavenandthatwillcarryintoyourdough.

Theleavenismadewiththestarter.Thecharacteroftheleavenistransferredtothedoughandultimatelytothefinalbread.Theseedingofalargemassofdoughbytheleaveneventuallytransformstheentiredoughintoalarger

versionofleaven.Iflefttofermentbeyonditsprimeleaveningstage,thedoughwillbecomethestarteragain,completingthecycle.

Thearomaoftheleaven,aswellasthedough,istheprimaryindicatorthatguidesyouthroughthestagesoffermentationsothatyouknowwhatishappening,regardlessoftemperatureandtimevariables.Timeandtemperaturearegoodplacestostart,butlearningtoreadthe“nose”ofyourleavenanddoughatdifferentstageswillenableyoutorecallandrepeatsuccessfulbakesandmanagetheprocesswithskill.

Iftheleavenisoverlyripeandvinegarywhenyoumixthedough,theacidwilloverpowertheotherdesirableflavors.Youcanstillmakebreadwiththedough,butqualitywillbecompromised.Uselessleaventocorrect.

Halfofanoverlyripeleavencanalwaysbediscardedandfedwithenoughofthe50/50flourblendandwatertoreplenishit.Theleavenwillbereadytousewhenitreachesthesweet-smellingstageandpassesthefloattestagain(seestep1onpage47)—inabout2hourswhenheldatamoderateroomtemperatureof76°to78°F.Leavensmatureatdifferentratesdependingontheambienttemperatureatwhichtheyaremaintained.Ideally,youwanttousetheleavenwithinanhourortwoofwhenit’sready.Althoughthe“young”leaventechniqueallowsforalargewindowoftimehere.

Ifyouarenotabletocontroltheambienttemperatureincolderclimates,usewarmerwatertofeedtheleavenwithahigherseedingpercentageofstarterandgiveitonelessfeedingperday.Inwarmerclimates,useasmallerseedpercentageofstarterandincreasethedailyfeedingsbyone.Inextremeheat,refrigeratetheleaventomaintainamoderatetemperatureorusechilledwater.

Withexperience,youwilldevelopkeenintuitionintherhythmsofthebakingcycle.

TheRestPeriodThedoughrestsinthebowljustaftertheinitialmixing.Thisperiod,namedtheautolyse(AUTO-leese)byesteemedFrenchbreadexpertProfessorRaymondCalvel,isnowincommonuse.

Whilethedoughislefttorest,glutensswellandformchainsthatbecomethegas-trappingstructureofthedough.Autolyseimprovestheeffectivenessofthetimespentmixing(orturningbyhand)whileshorteningthetimeneededtoactivelydevelopthedough.Calvelconfirmedthenotionofimprovedmixingby

lettingthedoughaccomplishmuchoftheworkpassively.Ifyouareshortontime,evena15-minuterestisbetterthannoneandincreasestheefficiencyoftheturnsyouareabouttodo.

Calvelquantifiedtheautolyseandexploredotherbeneficialactionsthatoccurduringthisrestperiod,suchastheconditioningofprotease,anenzymeintheflourthatisactivatedwithhydrationandworksontheglutentoincreaseextensibility.Extensibilityistheabilityofthedoughtostretcheasilywhilenotpullingback,orbucking.It’sanimportantqualitythatisessentialtoachievegoodvolumeinyourbread.

TheBulkFermentationThefirstrisingofthedoughiscalledthebulkfermentationorthebulkrise.Thisiswhenthestrength,flavor,andstructureofthedoughareset.TheFrenchcallthisphaselepointage,referencingtheimportanceofjudging“thepoint”intheprocesswhenthedevelopmentisoptimal.

Flourismadeupofstarchandprotein.Whenitishydratedwithwater,thestarchandproteinsabsorbthewaterandswell.Theproteinsformconnectedchainsthatconstitutethestructureofthedough,whichisdevelopedbystretchingandfoldingthedoughasyougiveitturnsduringthebulkfermentation.Theresultingtinyairpocketsformthebasecellstructureofthecrumb.Theyfillwithgasduringthebulkriseandexpandduringbakingtocreateanopen-texturedcrumb.Thelow-acid/high-hydrationapproachinthisbooknecessitatesalengthybulkfermentationduringwhichthestructureofthedoughisdevelopedbyturningthedoughinitscontainer.Witheachturn,thestrengthofthedoughincreasesexponentially.Turnsshouldbemorevigorousatthestartofthebulkfermentationandgentletowardtheendsoasnottodeflateanytrappedgasthatisleaveningthedough.

Thebulkfermentationforthebasiccountrydoughisaccomplishedin3to4hoursifthedoughismaintainedatatemperatureof78°to82°F.Thetimingcanbealteredtosuityourneeds.If,forexample,yourenvironmentis65°to70°Fandyourdoughcoolsdown,therisewilltakeafewhourslonger.Onceyouareabletoanticipatetheeffectsoftemperaturechangesonrisingtime,youcanmakethisworkforyou.OndayswhenIhavetoworkthebreadshiftalone,Imixthedough1°or2°Fcoolerbyusingcoolerwater;thisvariesdependingon

theambienttemperatureandthetemperatureoftheflour.Doingthisadds11/2hoursofbulkfermentation,soIcanbakefortheday,packuporders,andcleanbasketsandclothsbeforeIneedtodivideandshapethenextday’sdough.

Makingnaturalleavenedbreadisforgivingandversatile.Youwillalwaysuseyourleavenatrelativelythesamestageofripeness,butthebulkfermentationtimeandthefinalrisingtimecanbelengthenedconsiderablytospreadtheprocessovertwodays.Therearemanywaystoarrangethis.Oneexampleistoaccomplishthebulkriseduringthedayandthefinalriseovernight.Anotheristoachievethebulkriseovernightandthefinalriseduringthedaysothatyoucanbakeintheafternoonbeforedinner.

Ifthedoughismixedusingcoolerwater,at65°F,itwillneed8to12hoursofbulkfermentation,ratherthan3to4hours,aslongasit’skeptat55°to65°F.Youcanmixthiscooldoughintheeveningbeforeretiring.Thekeyistoarrangeyourscheduletoachieveconveniencewithoutcompromise.

Thebulkrisingtimecanbeshortenedbymixingthedoughwithwaterthatisacoupleofdegreeswarmer,butit’sbestnottosacrificemorethananhourofbulkrisetime.

Ifyouletthebulkfermentationgotoolong,thefinalrisewillbesluggishasthefoodthatfuelsthefermentationhasbeenexhausted.Theglutensinthedoughalsobegindegradingafteracertainpointduetoincreasingacidity,whichresultsinatighter,moreuniformcrumb.Thevolumeofthefinalloafwillbesmaller,andtheflavormoreacidic.Whenthedoughisbaked,thecrustwillcolorfasterduetoresidualsugarsonthesurfaceofthedoughthatcaramelizetooquickly,andthescoresonthesurfacewillnotopenwelltoformthedecorativecrust.Conversely,ifthebulkfermentationiscutshort,thedoughwillnotbeproperlyaerated.Lackingstrength,thepre-shapedroundswillrunonthetabletopduringthebenchrest.Thebakedcolorwillbedull,andagain,thescoreswillnotopenwell—ifatall.

Whenthebulkfermentationiswelltimed,thedividedandshapedloaveswillshowastructureuntothemselves.Whenbaked,thescoreswillopenelegantly,anexpressionofboththeforcewithintheloafandthehandsthatshapedit.

TheShapingandtheBenchRest

Whenyouaredividingyourdoughintotwopiecesforshaping,youcanassesshowitfeelsanddecidehowtoproceedwiththerestoftheprocess.“ShouldIgivethedoughalongbenchresttodevelopmorestrength,orshouldIshapethedoughtwicetogivemoretension?”Youcanmakeimmediateadjustmentsbyallowingforalongerorshorterbenchresttoensureyougettheresultsyouwant.Ifyourdoughcoolsdowntooquicklyafteryoudivideit,orifitseemsheavyandnotsufficientlyaerated,warmuptheroomandgivethedoughmoretimeonthebenchbeforeshaping.Generallyspeaking,ifthedoughisdividedtooearly,youneedmoretimeandmaybeanadditionalshapingwitha15-minuterestinbetween.Takeyourtime—itwillonlymakethebreadbetter.

OneeveningatTartine,Idividedmycountrydoughtooearlyevenafteralongbulkrise.Themarinelayerhadrolledintoourneighborhoodandcaughtmeoffguard.Thedoorsandwindowswereopen,andthetemperaturedropped20°Fin10minutes.Thefermentationslowedtoacrawl.Tocompensate,Ihadtogivethedoughaverylongbenchrest.Breakingfordinner,IatenextdooratDelfinaandcamebacklatertoshapetheloaves.Byallowingtimetocorrectthesituation,Iendedupwithflavorfulandbeautifulloaves.

Divideyourloavestoolate,andyou’llneedtoshapethedoughswiftlyandgently,keepingasmuchairintactaspossible.Inthiscase,you’llwanttobakesoonerratherthanlater—adjustedfromwhateveryou’vedevelopedasyournormalbakingschedule.

Theintialshapingofthedoughsetsstructureforthefinalshape.Withhighlyhydrateddoughs,thefinalshapeiscrucialfordevelopingthetensionorforceneededfortheloaftomaintainitsformthroughoutthelongfinalrise.Properfinalshapingisalsoessentialtoachievethedramaticarced“ears”thatbloomformingadecorativecrustwhenyourscoresexpandandopen.

Althoughtheoverallvolumeofawell-shapedloafandapoorlyshapedonemaybethesame,thescoreswillnotopenonthepoorlyshapedloafwiththesameexpressionasthescoresonawell-shapedone.Structuralshapingisdeceptivelysimpleandtakespracticetomaster,butwiththeskillcomesthefreedomtocraftanybreadyouimagine.

Weachievethenecessarytensionbyusingaseriesofdecisivefolds,eachoneaddingstructureatpointswithintheloaf.Commonpracticeistopressairoutofthedoughandrollittight.Thisknockspreciousgas,anessentialflavorcomponentformedduringthelongrise,outofthedoughandtoughensthecrumb.Onceyougetthehangofstructuralshaping,it’sapleasurewithamplereward.

TheFinalRiseThefinalrisingtimeisvariable.Atwarmproofingtemperaturesaround80°F,loaveswillbereadytobakein3to4hours.Ifyoudon’tretardthefinalrising,yourbreadwillhavelittletonoperceptiblesourflavor,andtheflavorofthewheatwillbemoreup-front.Youstillgainthebenefitsofsourdough:yourbreadwillstayfreshlonger,anditwillhaveamorecomplexsavor.

Retarding,orslowing,thefinalrisebycoolingtheloavesandholdingthemintherefrigeratorenablesyoutocontroltwokeythings:whenyoubakeyourbread,andtheintensityoftheflavors.Duringalongerfinalrise,flavorsgainedfromfermentationbuildtoanoptimalintensityandthenbecomeincreasinglysour.

Soyouhaveawiderangetoworkwith.Youcanmakedelicatelyflavoredbreadthatnoonewouldthinktocallsourdough,oryoucanmakesubstantiallystronger-flavoredbreadtoyourtaste.

TheBakeThisisthefinalactinproducingyourbread.Ibeganbakingwithagas-firedhearthdeckovenduringmyapprenticeshipwithRichardBourdon.ThislastedacoupleyearsuntilIwenttoworkinFranceusing“indirect”wood-firedovens.WhenIfinallyopenedmyfirstbakery,Ioptedfora“direct”wood-firedmasonryoven.Iwantedtolearntobakeinthemostprimitivewaypossible,andthiswasit.Plus,Icouldn’tevenaffordadoughmixer,muchlessaprofessionaldeckoven.

Inadirectlyfiredor“black”oven,thefireisbuiltinsidethedomedchamberwherethebreadwillbebaked,anditburnsforhourstosaturatethemasonrymasswithstoredheat.Woodisaddedintermittently,andthefireisshiftedaroundtheflooroftheovensothatallpartsofthebakingchamberareevenlyheated.Anindirectlyfiredor“white”ovenhasafireboxoutsidethebakingchamberwherethefuelisburned,andtheflamefromthefireisdirectedintothechamber.Theinsidechamberofablackoventurnsblackfromthefire’ssmokeandsoot.Whentheinteriorgetshotenough,itburnsoffclean.Whiteovenshaveventedchamberstopulloffthesmokeandsoot,sothechamberdoesnotturnblack.

AtTartine,webakeataninitiallyhighoventemperatureandthenturntheovenoff.TheideaistousethemodernovenasIusedthewood-firedovens.Amassivemasonryoven,heateddirectly,storesthatheatandthenradiatestheheattobakebreadwithafallingtemperatureoncethedirectheatsourceisoff.Radiantheat,incombinationwithconductiveheat,isthoroughandpenetrating,wellsuitedforbakinghighlyhydrateddoughs.

WhenwebuiltthebakeryinPointReyes,weturnedtoAlanScott,themostrenownedbuilderofwood-firedmasonryovensintheUnitedStates.Akeyaspectofhisbrilliantdesignwastheclosedbakingchamber.Whenthechamberwasfilledwithloavesandthesmalldooronthefrontoftheovenshut,theovenwascompletelysealed.Asbreadbegantobakeinthesteam-filledchamber,thefermentationactivityquicklyanddramaticallyincreased.Thisrapidproductionofgas,alongwiththequicklyexpandingsteampushingagainstthewallsoftheglutenstructure,causedovenspring,theinitialexpansionofvolumeinthebakingloaf.Themoistbakingenvironmentallowedformoreexpansionbeforethecrustformed,resultinginasuperiorvolumeandalight,opencrumbinthe

finalloaves.Thestarchonthesurfaceoftheloaveswasmoistenedandgelatinizedduringbakingtogiveaslightsheentothecrust.Withthecombocooker,youareabletoachievethiseffectathome,oneloafatatime.

Expensivemoderndeckovensareequippedwithsteaminjectorsthathumidifythechamberbeforeandduringloading.Steaminjectorsareanecessity,asdeckovensrequirealotofsteamjustbeforeloadingwithbreadtosaturatethechamberwithmoistureandduringthefirst10to15minutesofbakinguntilthedeckisfullofbread,whichthengeneratesitsownsteam.

Bakingyourbreadinacast-ironcombocookergivesyouthesameresultsyou’dgetwithaprofessionaldeckovenbycreatingacompletelysealed,radiant-heatenvironment.Theloafitselfgeneratestheperfectamountofsteamuntilyouremovethecookerlidtoallowtheformationofthecrusttofinishthebake.Thecooker’ssealedsteam-saturatedchambergivesconsiderablybetterresultsinovenspringandscoredevelopmentthanbakingaloafonabakingstoneplacedinahomeoven.Duringourtestsusingbakingstones,whentheovenwasfully

saturatedandclosed,wewatchedsteampouringoutofseamsallaround.It’snotpossibletoreplicatethesameenvironmentinastandardhomeovenwithoutcreatingasealedoveninsidetheoven.Thatiswhatthecombocookerdoes.

Oncetheovenspringhasbeenachievedandthecrustisstartingtoset,youventthesteambyremovingthecookerlidtoallowtheformationofthecrustanditsgradualbutthoroughcaramelization.Whenthecrustiswellcoloredandtheloafsoundshollowwhentappedonthebottom,thebreadisdone.Theinteriortemperatureoftheloafwillread212°F.Theloafwillhavealightnessinthehand,indicatingthattherightamountofwaterhasbeencookedoutofit.

Breadthatcoolsslowlywillkeepfreshlonger.Stacktheloavestogetheronedgeandletthemcoolfor2to4hours.Thisisnotnecessary,though.It’sagreatpleasuretopassahotloaffromtheoventoabreadlover.Iprefertoeatfreshbreadveryfresh.Otherwise,Ifryitinapanwitholiveoilorbutter,toastit,ormakeoneoftherecipesinChapter4usingday-oldbread.Inanycase,itisalwayseaten.Fryingaslicecutfromaloafstillwarmfrombakingwillyieldanexquisitedelicacy—crisp,friededgeswithacustardyinterior.

JeffreySteingarten,authorofTheManWhoAteEverything,onceaskedme,“Whatgoodismakinggreatbreadifnobodygetstoeatitbutyouandyourfriends?”Theanswercomeseasyonceyoubakeyourfirstloaf.

TESTBAKERS

Traininganapprenticetobakebreadisonething,butteachingsomeonehowtodoitinprintisquiteanother.IknewthatthemostimportantaspectofthisbookwouldbetheeffectivenessoftherecipeforBasicCountryBread,soEricandIaskedfriendstohelpustranslatethisTartineloafintotheirrespectivehome-bakingscenarios.Ericsetupapassword-protectedblogandpostedthephotosandtextasIplannedthematerialtobepublished.

Enlistingagroupofadozencommittedtestbakers,wesuppliedthemwithdutchovencombocookersandpostedthefirstroundofphotosandinstructions.InitiallyIwroteverysimpleinstructions,hopingtoencouragethetesterstoapproachtheprocesswithacloseeyeontheimageswiththefreedomtolearnfromtheirexperience.Soonphotos,personalaccounts,andquestionsstartedpouringin.Avibrantdiscourseensuedasmanyplungedintotheprojectwithfocusedenthusiasm.

ItwasclearthatIhadworktodoonthebasicrecipe,butIneverexpectedsuchconsistentlyimpressiveresults.Manytestersmadeexceptionalbread,judgedbyprofessionalstandards—itwasvirtuallyindistinguishablefromourownTartinebread.Theirbreadgaveusnoreasontotakeintoconsiderationthattheyweremakingitathome,withnoexperienceandwithoutprofessionalequipment.Granted,thetesterswhoprevailedwerededicatedandgenuinelyinterestedinbuildingaleaventomakegreatbread.

Afewtestersstartedmodifyingtherecipetosuittheirschedules.EricandI,alongwithNateYanko,myleadbreadbakeratTartine,andLoriOyamada—thefreshestfacetojointhebreadshift—weremakingbreadforthedailyproductionwhilecontinuingtoassembleandtestotherrecipesforthebook.Therewasnotimetomaintaintheblogproperly,andourtesterswentrogue.Whenwecaughtupwiththemmonthslater,theyweredoingtheirownthing—withimpressiveresults.

Whenwetoldfriendsaboutthebookproject,ourtesters’experienceswerewhatresonatedthestrongest:Thegradstudentwhohadneverbakedbeforemadebetterbreadthanmostcommercialbakeries.Theformerchefandavidhomebakergotresultshehadpracticallygivenupon.Thefirst-timerestaurantownerdecidedthathewantedtomakethebreadforhiscafeinsteadofbuyingit.

Ourtestersprovethatgreatbreadispossible,nomatterhowlittletimeorexperienceyouhave.Theyinnovatedalongtheway,andweallbecamebetterbakersforit.

Marie:

EveryotherFridayatTartine,wearetreatedtothemusicofafineaccordionplayerandhertrio.Mariehasawarmsmileandanengagingpersonality,andvolunteeredtobeatesterbeforewefinishedtellingherabouttheidea.Shewasafull-timegradstudentandaworkingmusicianwithnobakingexperiencewhatsoever.

Mariestartedher“breadadventure”rightawayandposteddetailedaccountsofherexperience.Shedescribedherearlyeffortswiththestarterinpersonalterms,asifsheweregettingtoknowsomeone.Sheadmitteditwas“awkward”atfirst.ShecarriedherstarteronaweeklongtriptoBrooklyn,playingshowsnightly,andbakedherfirstloaftwodaysaftershereturnedtotheWestCoast.

Shealsocameupwithherownsimpleandeffectivebakingaid.Shemadeachartonindexcardswithfivecolumns:(1)bakingstages,(2)estimatedtimeeachstagetakes(frombasicrecipe),(3)plannedtime,(4)actualtime,and(5)temperatureoftheroom/ovenforeachstage.Thechartwassohandythatsheusediteverytimeshebaked.Shewasabletoworkoutherbakingscheduleaheadoftime,andplantherestofherdaydecidingwhethershewantedtomix

inthemorningortheafternoon.Onceshehadthestagesandtheirapproximatetimingonthechart,shecouldplugindifferenttimestofigureouthowbesttofitbakingintoherschedule.“Itallowedmetogeterrandsdone,goforarun,andeditpapers—mydayendedupbeingsomuchmoreproductivethanitwould’vebeenifIhadn’tbakedbread.”

Mariehadalreadybakedeighttimeswhenwewenttoseeherathome.Thoughherbreadwascomingoutbeautifully,shenotedthattheactualtimesnolongermatchedtheestimatedtimes.Luckilyshehadsavedallthecards,witheverythingindetail.Reviewingthecards,wenoticedaremarkableprogression.Atfirstshewasverystrictaboutcontrollingtheambientroomtemperature,andtheentireprocesskeptveryclosetotheestimatedschedule.Afterthefourthbakingsession,herroomtemperaturefluctuated(anormaloccurrenceintheBayArea),andtheactualtimeswereoffbyafewhours.

Farfromviewingthisasafault,wesawitasanindicationthatshewasdevelopingarealbaker’sintuition.Ratherthanbakingbythenumbers,shewasrespondingtothedough.Thefirstfewbakingsessionstaughtherwhattolookfor.Then,whencoolroomtemperaturesthrewthestarterandthenthebulkfermentationoff,shewaited,increasingherrisingtimes,insteadofrushingtheprocess.

Thoughshenowleavesherstarterbehindwhenshetravels,Mariecontinuestobake.Sheuseshernotecardsbutwithanextraelementofcontrol:shecontrolstheambienttemperatureduringthebulkfermentationtoshortenorextendthetimingbasedonherscheduleofactivitiesfortheday.Sheloveseatingandsharingherloaves,butwhatshemostlooksforwardtoisthefaintcrackleofthehotcrustasitcools—the“song”ofthebread.

Mark:

IfMarieshowedthatthismethodworkswellforthecompletenovice,Markwouldbeproofthatitofferedsomethingusefulformoreexperiencedbakers.Hehadworkedinabakerywhenhewasinhisearlytwentiesandsincethenhadreadmostbooksonthesubject.Ameticulous,self-effacing“sciencegeek”withaquicksenseofhumor,hepressedusfordetailstobolsterhisalreadystrongintuition.Wesenthimacombocookerandinsistedhestartbydoingexactlywhathesawinthepictures.

Markhadbeenbakingbreadathomeforyears—withalong,passionatedetourintodoughnuts—andwasskepticalaboutmyclaimthathecouldmakeTartinebreadinhishomeoven.Hisearlyloaveswerestunning,andthebasiccountryrecipeisbetterforhispointedandinsightfulquestions.

WewenttohishomeinSebastopoltobakewithhim.Asticklerfordetails,hestayedclosetotheoriginalmethod.Hecontrolledtheambienttemperatureduringthebulkrisebyusingtheovenasaproofingchamber(seepage52).Insteadofusingapotofhotwater,heturnsontheovenforafewminuteseveryhalfhourtoheathisbakingstone.(Heclaimshehasn’tyetforgottentoturnitoff.)Heuseshalfofthedoughforpizzaandtheotherhalfforbread,whichhebakesthesameday.

“First,Ican’tbelievethatIhavebreadlikethisinmyhomemadebymyownhands.Onebite,andIsaid,‘Thistasteslikerealbread.’Iwasalwaysstymiedinmyattempttomakebreadwiththetextureandcrustthatispossible

fromaproperbreadoven.Ifeltthattherewasaceilingonthequalitypossiblefromsomethingbakedtraditionallyathomeandwasacceptingthatbelief(withagreatdealoftherapyImightadd).

“Whatyouhavehelpedmewithisabetterunderstandingofandskillswithmystarter.Sinceitisliterallytheheart,soul,andlifeofthesebreads,alloftherestisdecorationuntilalivelydoughcanbecreated.WhileIhadreadaboutthecast-ironmethodbefore,yourdoughcomesoutmuchbetterusingitthanonanypreviousdoughImadeandbakedthatway.Themagic,then,isclearlyinthemethod.”

Withthat,theconversationturnedbacktodoughnuts.

Dave:

WemetDaveinthewater,asurferandartistwhohadsupportedhimselfforyearsasabartender,afewmonthsbeforeheandhiswifeweresettoopenasmallcaféablockfromourhomebreak—OceanBeach.Hehadrecentlyleasedanabandoned,barelyequippedrestaurantspace.Davepouredthelastofhissavingsintothecaféandhiredasmallstaffwiththeunderstandingthathehadnocashflowandcouldpaythembasedonlyonwhattherestaurantmadedaytoday.

Davewasdoingmostoftheremodelandrepairworkhimself.HehadjustfinishedabeautifulmosaicmadeofNorthernCaliforniadriftwood.Earlierinthemonth,hehadlearnedtomillwoodsohecouldpaneltheentirewallwithsalvaged,wornredwoodfenceboards.Despitehisdo-it-yourselfphilosophy,heknewhislimitsinthekitchen.Hecouldn’tbethechefofhisrestaurant,buthestillwantedtoplayapartincreatingthefood,andhementionedwantingtomakethebreadhimself.

Ithoughtitwasalotforhimtotakeonatthetime,astheyhadababyduearoundthetimetheywerescheduledtoopentheplace.ButIunderstoodhismotivationanddevisedasimplemethodthatwouldenableDavetomakegoodbreadwithlittletimeandnoexperience.

Ibroughthimfivepoundsofflourandexplainedhowtomakeastarter.Idirectedhimtothetesterblogandtoldhimtocallmewithanyquestions.Afewmonthspassedwithoutaword,untilonedaywegotacallatthebakery:“We’vebeenopenforthreemonths,andpeoplearegoingnutsoverthebread.Whenareyouguyscomingin?”

ThenexttimewesawDaveacoupleofmonthslater,hehadababydaughter;therestaurantwasfullandhadacrowdwaitingoutsideforopenseats;andhisbreadwasoneverytable.Hisloaveslookedlikedriftwood,remindingmeoftherusticbreadof“theawesomebaker”inBordeauxyearsago,andtheinsidecrumbwasspongyandmoist.Ithadthebalancedacidityyougetonlyfromalongfermentationwithayoungstarter.Thoughhisbreadhadmanyofthecharacteristicswestrivefor,itwasauniqueloafandbeautifullymatchedtheaestheticofhissmallcafé.

EricstayedthatnighttowatchDavemakebread.Overthepreviousfewmonths,hehadradicallydepartedfrommyoriginalmethod.Hedidn’tdoitintentionally—hereallythoughthewasdoingthingsclosetothewaythatIhadshownhim—butheadmittedhehadreadtherecipeonlyonce.

Wecouldseethatthelimitationsofhisscheduleandequipmenthadnecessitatedacompletelydifferentapproach.Hedoesn’thavealargeoven(forgetfree-formhearthloaves),alargerefrigerator(forgetretarding),orevenamixer.Whathedoeshaveisafewfreehoursintheeveningafterthedinnerserviceand,underasix-burnerrange,asingleconvectionovenwithabrokendoorfromwhichheneededtopullfortyloavesaday.

AlthoughDavedidn’thavetheknow-howtoconceiveabakingschedulefromtheoutset,hehadadaptedtohiscircumstances.Hemixedhisleavenbetweenlunchanddinnerserviceataround5P.M.Hethenmixedthedoughafewhourslater,whenthedinnershiftwaswindingdown,developingthe78percenthydrationdoughwithturnseveryfifteenminutes.Thebulkfermentation

lastedforbarelyanhourbeforehedividedandshapedthedough.Afterathirty-minutebenchrest—duringwhichhewasheddishesandfinishedcleaning—heshapedtheloavesandputtheminmetalloafpansbrushedwitholiveoil.Afterslashingtheloaveswitharazor—“What,youguysreallydothisrightbeforeyoubake?”—heletthemsitoutandriseovernight.Thebreadwasbakedat7A.M.thenextmorning,oftenbeforeorafteraquicksurfsession.

Hadheconsultedmebefore,Imighthaveadvisedadifferentsystem.Buttheproofwasintheresults:Dave’sbreadisexcellentandfitsperfectlywithinhisconstraints.Butwhydoesitwork?

Davecan’tbakefree-formloavesbecausehedoesn’thaveabigenoughoven.Soheusespans.Thiswasaluckycoincidence,becausethepansarethekeytothesuccessofhisfermentationschedule.Becausehecan’tmakebreaduntilafterthedinnerservice,hisdoughundergoesbulkfermentationforonlyanhour.Itstillfeelslifelesswhenhedividesandshapes.Thiswouldspelldisasterforafree-formhearthloaf,whichreliesonthetensiondevelopedduringthebulkfermentationtoholditsshapeduringthelongfinalrise.

ButDavedoesn’thavetoworryaboutthelackoftensionbecausetheloafpanssupportthedoughallthewaythroughtothebake.Hecan’tdoalongbulkfermentation(asitis,hefinishesshapingaroundmidnight),sohemakesupforitwithalongriseinthepansatroomtemperature(about65°F).Ifhedidhavethetimetogivethedougha“proper”bulkfermentationaccordingtothebasicrecipe,hisbreadwouldbereadytobakeinthemiddleofthenight.Hewouldneedtoretardthefermentation,buthedoesnothavetherefrigeratorspacetoretardtheloavesinhissmallcafé.

Asitis,Daveisabletosqueezetheactiveworkingtimeintoanarrowwindow.Thenheletsthelongriseovernightdotherestofthework,sothathisbreadisreadytobakewhenhewakesupthenextmorning.Hisbreadrisesovernightatroomtemperatureintherestaurant.Theyoungstarterhereiskey.Ifhedidn’tuseit,hisbreadwouldbeoverwhelminglysouranddense.

ThereisabuzzintheneighborhoodaboutDave’sbread—adevelopmentthatgenuinelysurpriseshim.Herecountswithgoodhumortheconversationswithexcitedcustomerswhoaskhimhowlonghehasbeenbakingbread.“IwanttotellthemIreallydon’tknowwhatI’mdoing.”

ThebreadisasmallbutessentialpartofDave’sbroadervisionforthebusiness.Despitethefifteen-hourdays,heishappywithhowthingsaregoing:“It’sthefirsttimeIhavenothadtocompromisemyselftodosomething.I’m

doingworkthat’sthoroughlyinlinewithmyethics.ThereisnopartofthisrestaurantthatI’mnotproudof.”Helooksovertohiswifeandyoungdaughter.“It’snotjusttheethics,though;thereasonit’sworkingsowellforusisthatit’sinlinewithwhoweare.Thefactthatit’ssituatedinourneighborhoodamongpeopleweknow.Therestaurant,thebread...they’rejustanextensionofourselvesandanhonestportrayalofwhowewanttobe.”

Havinglittlefreetimemeansprioritizingthethingshewantstodomost.“MydreamwillberealizedwhenIcansurfeverydaythatit’sgood,spendtimewithmyfamily,andthenputinasoliddayofworkamongfriends.”

VARIATIONSONBASICCOUNTRYBREAD

Iworkedaloneforadecade,choppingwooddaily,firingtheoven,andmixingdoughsbyhand.Earlyon,itbecameclearthatIcouldnotmaintainthequalityIwantedmixingmultipledoughswitheachonefermentingatdifferentpaceswhileIhandledthedemandsofaone-manbakeshop.IfIwantedtomaintainconsistency,Ihadtosimplifythings.SoImixedonelargedoughperday,addedingredientstoflavor,andemployeddifferentshapestooffermyregularcustomersarangeofbreadstochoosefrom.

Allofthesebreadsusethebasiccountrydough.Theprocedureforaddingtheingredientstothedoughisthesameforallvariations—duringthebulkfermentation,generallyafterthefirstturn.Don’tworryifthedoughfeelsasifit’sbreakingapart.Itwillcomebacktogetherafterafewminutes’rest.

Theamountsfortheadditionsineachvariationareenoughforonerecipeofbasiccountrydough,whichyieldstwoloaves.Ifyouwanttomaketwodifferentvariationswithonedoughmix,dividethedoughinhalfafterthefirstturnandaddhalfoftheadditionstoeachpieceofdough.Ofcourse,addmoreorlesstosuityourtaste.

OliveAtTartine,welikeamixofgreenolivesandoil-curedblackolives.Foraspell,Iinsistedonusingonlygreenlucquesolives.Thiswasmyfavoriteversionofourolivebread,butittookhoursforustopittheolivesbyhandforthequantityofbreadweproduced.Pittingoliveswouldcertainlybeworththeeffortonasmallscale.Tastedifferentolivevarietiesandusetheonesyoulikethemost.AnothervariationIfirstmadeinMillValleyincorporatestoastedwalnutsorhazelnutsalongwiththeolivesandherbs.Therearealotofflavorsatoncewiththisone,buteatenwitharoundofpiquantgoatcheese;fresh,ripefigsorpersimmons;andourlocalgreens,theolive-nutbreadmakesafinemeal.

Makes2loaves3cupspittedolives,coarselychopped2cupswalnutsorhazelnuts,toastedandcoarselychopped(optional)2teaspoonsdriedherbesdeProvenceGratedzestof1lemon1recipeBasicCountryBreaddough(page45)

Inabowl,stirtogethertheolives,nuts(ifusing),herbesdeProvence,andlemonzest.Aftergivingthedoughafirstturninstep5(seepage54),addtheolivemixturetothedoughandmoistenwithalittlewater.Useyourhandstocutandincorporatetheingredientsintothedough.Completethebulkfermentationasdirected.

SesameDeeplytoastedsesameseedslendanunexpecteddepthofsavortothebread.Afteryouincorporatetheseedsintothedough,thesesamearomagetsstrongerasitmixeswiththearomasofnaturalfermentation.Theflavormellowsafterthedoughisbaked.ThisbreadcanbeusedinterchangeablywiththeBasicCountryBreadandisastandoutinplacesyoumightnotexpect:grilledcheesesandwiches,peanutbutterandjellysandwiches,steakandeggsontoast,andPanconTomate(page199).

Makes2loaves1cupunhulledsesameseeds1recipeBasicCountryBreaddough(page45)

Preheattheovento400°F.Spreadthesesameseedsevenlyonarimmedbakingsheet.Baketheseedsfor10minutes.Removefromtheovenandredistributetheseeds—thoseneartheouterrimwillbedarkerthanthoseinthemiddle.Continuetobaketheseedsuntilwelltoasted,10to15minutes.Letcoolfor20minutes.

Aftergivingthedoughafirstturninstep5(seepage54),addthecooledseedstothedoughandmoistenwithalittlewater.Useyourhandstocutandsqueezetheseedsintothedough.Completethebulkfermentationasdirected.

WalnutWalnutbreadshouldhavenutsineverybite.Itisexpensivebreadtomakeusinggood,organicnuts,andworthdoingwell.Asforthesesameseedvariation,thewalnutsaretoastedtointensifytheirflavor.Tanninsinthewalnutsstreakthedoughpurple.Ifyoulike,alsoincorporatewalnutoil.Adecadentadditionof2tablespoonsoffinewalnutoil(ormoreorlesstotaste)providesanaddedlayerofwalnutflavor.

Makes2loaves3cupswalnuts1recipeBasicCountryBreaddough(page45)

Preheattheovento425°F.Spreadthewalnutsevenlyonarimmedbakingsheet.Bakethenutsforabout15minutes,stirringevery5minutessotheytoastevenly.Totestfordoneness,breakopenawalnut.Theinsideshouldhavealightcaramelcolor;theoutsideshouldbeashadedarker.Letcoolfor20minutes.Breakthenutsinhalf,orcoarselychopthemifyouwantsmallerpieces.

Aftergivingthedoughasecondturninstep5(seepage54),addthewalnutstothedoughandmoistenwithwater.Useyourhandstocutandsqueezethenutsintothedough.Completethebulkfermentationasdirected.

Polenta

Anygrain—aslongasitiscookedorsoakedinhotwaterandthencooled—canbeaddedtotheBasicCountryBreaddough.UsingacoarsepolentasoakerIfirstexperimentedwithatBourdon’sintheBerkshires,thisbreadwasanearlyfavoriteattheBerkeleyFarmers’Market.AlongwiththeBolinasPeople’sstore,Toby’sFeedBarn,TomalesBayFoods,andManka’sInvernessLodge,theBerkeleyFarmers’Marketsustainedoursmallbusinessformanyyears.

Steepcoarse-groundpolentainboilingwaterbeforemixingitintothedough.Thepolentaaddsacustardliketexturetothecrumb,andgoldencornoiladdsmoredepthtothecornflavor.Thetoastedpumpkinseedsandfreshrosemarycomplementthenatureofthisbreadwell.

1cuppumpkinseeds1cuppolenta

2cupsboilingwater3tablespoonsunrefined,unfilteredcornoil1tablespoonchoppedfreshrosemary1recipeBasicCountryBreaddough(page45)

Preheattheovento400°F.Spreadthepumpkinseedsevenlyonarimmedbakingsheet.Baketheseedsuntiltheystarttopopandturnfromlightgreentobrown,about10minutes,stirringthemonceafter5minutes.Letcoolfor20minutes.

Inabowl,stirtogetherthepolentaandboilingwaterandsetasidefor30minutesoruntilcool.Stirthecornoil,rosemary,andpumpkinseedsintothepolenta.

Aftergivingthedoughasecondturninstep5(page54),addthepolentamixturetothedoughandmoistenwithalittlewater.Useyourhandstocutandsqueezetheingredientsintothedough.Completethebulkfermentationasdirected.

PizzaBythetimethefinalshapingisfinishedonthebreadshift,thebreadbakersarethelastonesleftatthebakery.Onoccasion,wepinchsomedoughandbringittotheapartmentupstairstomakepizzafordinner.We’refortunatetohaveanoldgasovenwithashelfbroilerandbrokenthermostat.Withtheheatingelementcrankedtobroilandaterra-cottatilepositionedrightaboveit,theoventurnsoutablisterypieinabout3minutes.Ourcurrentpizzarevival,withalltheattitude,manifestos,and“secrets”(theflour!thewater!theoven!),isamusing.Juststartwithgoodbreaddoughandaveryhotbakingstone,andyouwillendupwithagreatpizza.

Nettle

You’llneedapizzapeelandabakingstoneorceramictileatleast12inchessquare.

Makes1pizza

400gramsBasicCountryBreaddough(page45)CornmealfordustingAll-purposeflourfordustingTOPPING

6cupsfreshnettleleaves1/2cupheavycreamRedpepperflakesSalt2ouncesmozzarellacheese,cutinto1/2-inchcubes

2ouncesfontinacheese,cutinto1/2-inchcubes

Dividethedoughasdirectedinstep6onpage56,makingsurethatonepieceweighs400grams.Shapeeachpieceandletoneroundrestontheworksurfacefor30minutes.

Meanwhile,positionarackinthemiddleoftheovenandremovetheotherracks.Placethebakingstoneontherack.Preheattheovenatitshighestsetting—about500°F.Allow15minutestothoroughlyheatthestone.

Whentheovenishot,dustapizzapeelwithcornmeal.Thishelpskeepthedoughfromsticking,anditeasesthetransferofthedoughfromthepeeltothestone.Dustthedoughroundwithflourandtransferittothepeel,placingitflour-sidedown.

Dustthedoughwithalittlemoreflour.Pressthedoughround1/2inchfromtheedgetocreatearim.Liftupthedoughandplacethecenterontothebackofoneofyourhands.Stretchthedoughusingthebackofyourotherhandsothatitspreadsfromthemiddle.Rotatethedougharoundonyourhandandletgravityhelpstretchitevenly.Whenthedoughissufficientlystretched,layitonthepeel.Ifthedoughrippedwhileyouwereshapingit,pressthetearbacktogether.Thediametershouldbesmallerthanthestonebutcanvarydependingonhowthickorthinyouwantyourpizzatobe.Placethedoughonthepeel.

Tomakethetopping,usetongswhenhandlingnettles,astheywillsting.Inabowl,tossthenettleswiththecreamandapincheachofredpepperflakesandsalt.Distributethecheesesacrossthedoughandmoundthenettlesontop.Theywillcookdownquiteabitduringthebaking,soyoucanusemanymorenettlesthanyouthink.

Shakethepeeltoloosenthedoughandmakesureitslideseasily.Ifit’sstucktothepeel,useaspatulatoliftitupandaddmorecornmealunderthedough.Opentheovendoorandplacethefaredgeofthepeelagainstthefarsideofthebakingstone.Shakethepeelandpullitoutoftheoventoslidethepizzaontothestone.

Bakethepizzafor4to8minutes,dependingonhowhotyourovengets.Checkthebottomofthepizzaforcharmarks—anindicationthatthedoughisbakedthrough.Whenthepizzaisdone,slidethepeelunderitandremovefromtheoven.Placethepizzaonacuttingboardandcutintowedgestoserve.

MargheritaPizza

PizzaMargheritaistheclassicNeopolitanpizzawithscant-but-perfectly-balancedtoppings.Bakedblisteringhot,traditionallyinawood-firedoven,theroundofdoughissaucedwithaspoonfuloftomatosauce.Tornpiecesoffreshmozzarellaarearrangedontop,andthediskispeeledintoa900°Fovenwithafireburninginside.

Cookedinunder2minutes,theoutsidecoronacolorswithcharredblisterswhiletheinteriorremainspliable.TheMargheritaisfinishedwithfreshlypickedbasilstrewnoverthebubblingsauceandcheese.Dripchilioiloverthetopforaddedheat,orgoodextra-virginoliveoiltoaddarichnote.Suchperfectsimplicityhasbecometheiconicimageofpizzaacrosstheworld.

Hereweuseourhomeovenblastedonthebroilsettingtodeliciouseffect.Ourneighbor,andpizzaobsessive,JeffKrupmanhasmodifiedaportableWeberhomegrillintoawood-burningpizzaovenaffectionatelydubbed“theFrankenWeber.”

Whenhe’sontheblock,weprefertousehisrig.

PotatoFocacciaIfirsttastedthispotatoflatbreadmanyyearsagoatSullivanSt.Bakery,theninSoho,hotfromtheovenandpowerfullydelicious.Tryingtoachievesomethingsimilar,ImadethisversionafterIgothome.Thepotatoesaresaltedanddrained,andthewaterthat’spressedoutisreplacedwithflavorfuloliveoil,whichgivesthebakedpotatotoppingasatisfyingrichness.

ThisisoneofmyfavoriterecipesfromourdayssellingattheBerkeleyFarmers’MarketwhereIcouldalwaystradefocacciaforasliceofCheeseboardpizza.Weoftenmakeaversionofthisflatbreadforfamilymealatthebakery,toppingitwithwhateverwehaveonhand:Concordgrapesandfromageblanc;sweetpeasandsummersquash;cornandPadrónpeppers.

Youcanusefreshdoughasyouwouldforpizzaorapieceofdoughthatyou’veretardedovernightintherefrigerator.Atthebakery,wepullaloaffromtherackthathasfermentedovernight,stretchitout,addthetoppings,andbake.

Makes1focaccia1recipeBasicCountryBreaddough(page45)3poundswaxypotatoessuchasYukongold

11/2teaspoonssalt

Freshlygroundpepper1/2cupoliveoil

Leavesfrom1bunchfreshthyme3ouncespecorinocheese

Ifusingfreshdough,shapeitasdirectedinstep6onpage56.Letrestontheworksurfacefor30minutes.Ifusingdoughfromtherefrigerator,letitsitatroomtemperaturefor30minutestowarmup.

Usingamandoline,cutthepotatoesintothin,translucentslices.Placeinacolanderandtosswiththesalt.Letstandfor20minutestoreleasetheliquid.Pressorsqueezeouttheremainingliquidfromthepotatoesuntiltheystopdripping.Inalargebowl,tosstogetherthepotatoslices,peppertotaste,oliveoil,andhalfofthethymeleaves.

Preheattheovento500°F.Brusharimmedbakingsheetwitholiveoil.Transferthedoughtothepanandstretchittotheedges.Don’tforcethedoughifittightensbeforeyoucanspreadit.Letitrestforafewminutesandcontinuestretching,takingcarenottopressallthegasoutofthedough.

Distributethepotatoesoverthesurfaceofthedough.Bakefor15minutes,thencheckthefocacciaandrotatethepantobakeevenly.Continuebakinguntilthefocacciaisgoldenbrownandthepotatoesarecrisp,about20minutes.Removethefocacciatoacuttingboard.Shaveorgratethepecorinooverthetopandgarnishwiththeremainingthyme.Cutthefocacciaandservewarm.Orletcoolonarackandthencut.

CHAPTER2

SemolinaandWhole-WheatBreads

USINGVARIETIESOFWHEATTHATARELESSCOMMONLYBAKEDintobread,suchassemolina,orvaryingtheamountofwhole-grainwheatwillgiveyourbreadadifferentcharacterfromtheBasicCountryBreadwhilemaintainingitsessentialqualities.Muchofthebasicrecipeandmethodarethesame.

SEMOLINABREAD

Theheartofthedurumwheatberry,semolinaisgoldenyellowandhigherinproteinthancommonwheatbreadflour.Durumsemolinaiswhatgivespastaitscharacteristicyellowcolor.InsouthernItaly,finelygroundsemolinawasmostoftencheaperthanwhitesiftedwheatflourandwasusedtomakethedailybreadofSicilians,calledpanerimacinato.

Traditionally,thebreadwashomemade,raisedwithnaturalleaven,andbakedinawood-firedoven.Itwaseatenwarmorgrilledwithfreshricotta,marjoram,anchovies,andoliveoil.Wefryasliceofthebreadinoliveoilandcutitintobatonstoprepareabaker’ssnackofsheep’smilkricotta,walnutAnchoïade(page187),andCalabrianchilipaste,enjoyedwithfreshfigsandlocalhoneyfromSanFrancisco’sMissionDistrict.

Thehigherproteincontentofsemolinaflourcallsformorewaterinthemixingprocesstoachieveadoughthatfeelssimilartothebasiccountrydough.Ablendofsemolinaflourandregularwheatbreadflourisusedinan70/30ratio.Whilethesemolinabreadhasanotablygolden-coloredcrumb,theflavorisonlyslightlydifferentfromthatofnormalwheatbread.Theadditionalflavoringofcrushedtoastedfennel,poppy,andsesameseedscomplementsthenatureofthegrain:asalways,adjusttheamountstosuityourtaste.

Makes2loaves

INGREDIENTS QUANTITY BAKER’SPERCENTAGE

Leaven 200grams 20

Water(80°F) 750gramsplus50grams 80

SemolinaFlour 700grams 70

All-purposeorBreadFlour 300grams 30

FennelSeeds 75grams 7.5

SesameSeeds 75grams 7.5

Salt 20grams 2

MixedSeedsforCoating* 200grams

*Useamixtureoffennel,poppy,andsesameseeds,untoasted.

Preparetheleavenasdirectedinstep1oftheBasicCountryBreadrecipe(seepage45).Whentheleavenpassesthefloattest,youarereadytomixthesemolinadough.

Pourthe750gramswarmwaterintoalargemixingbowl.Addtheleavenandstirittodisperse.Addthesemolinaflourandtheall-purposeflour.Usingyourhands,mixthoroughlyuntilnobitsofdryflourremain.Letthedoughrestinthebowlfor25to40minutes.

Whilethedoughisresting,toastthefennelseedsandsesameseedsinaskilletovermedium-highheatforabout5minutes.Transfertoasmallbowltocool.Coarselygrindthetoastedseedsinamortarwithapestleorpulseinaspicegrinder.Addpoppyseedstoseedmixture.

Aftertherestingperiod,addthesaltandthe50gramswarmwatertothedough.Incorporatethesaltbysqueezingthedoughbetweenyourfingers.Thedoughwillfirstbreakapartandthenwillre-formasyouturnitinthebowl.Don’tworryifthesaltdoesnotseemtodissolverightaway.Transferthedoughtoaclearcontainerasdirectedinstep4onpage52andbeginthebulkfermentation.Followtheinstructionsforturningthedoughinstep5onpage54.Aftergivingthedoughasecondturn,addthegroundfennelandsesameseedstothedoughandmoistenwithalittlewater.Useyourhandstocutandsqueezetheseedsintothedough.Completethebulkfermentationasdirected.

Followsteps6through8onpages56to58fortheinitialshaping,benchrest,andfinalshaping.Aftercompletingthefinalshaping,rollthetopofeachloafinthemixedseeds.Transfereachloaftobasketsorbowlsforthefinalrise,seeded-sidedown,asdirectedinstep9onpage58.Bakeeachloaf,followingsteps1through7onpages65to68.

VARIATIONONSEMOLINABREAD

GoldenRaisin,FennelSeed,andOrangeZestThisdriedfruitvariationgivestheloafasweeterflavorprofile.Goldenraisinsandfennelseedareaclassiccombination.Ienjoythisbreadforbreakfast,toastedandspreadwithbutterandmarmalade.

Makes2loaves3cupsgoldenraisins

11/2tablespoonsfennelsseeds,toastedandcrushed

1teaspooncorianderseeds,toastedandcrushed1recipeSemolinaBread(page110)Gratedzestof1Valenciaorange

Puttheraisinsinabowlandaddwarmwatertocover.Soaktheraisinsfor30minutes.Drainandreturntothebowl.Addthefennelandcorianderseedsandorangezest.

Aftergivingthedoughasecondturninstep5onpage54,addtheraisinmixturetothedoughandmoistenwithalittlewater.Useyourhandstocutandsqueezethemixtureintothedough.Completethebulkfermentation,shapingandbakingasdirected.

WHOLEWHEAT:COMPLETANDINTEGRAL

RichardBourdonintroducedmetotheartisan-stylewholegrainloaf.Likemanyofuswhosemothersmadelunchmeatsandwichesonhoney-bakedwheatloaves,Igrewupthinkingthatwhole-wheatbreadwasasweet,softloafresemblingbrownWonderbread.Tothisday,Ican’tresistabologna,cheese,andmayosandwichonthisbread.ButRichard’sbreadwasdifferent—afree-formloafwithamoistcrumbandasubstantial,burnishedbrowncrust.

WorkinginFrancewithDanielColinandPatrickLePort,Ifoundtheirsignaturebreadsincludedwhole-grainhearthbreadswithsimilarcharacteristicstoRichard’sandthesefurtherinformedthewayIapproachedwhole-grainbaking.Bothbakersmadetwoversionsofbrownbread.Thecompletusedablendofwhiteandwhole-grainfloursandproducedalightwheatbread.Thesecond,calledintegral,wasmadefrom100-percentwhole-grainwheatflourandhadadarker,densercrumbwithamorepronouncedwhole-wheatflavor.Thesearetheloaveswelivedon,alongwithpâtéandflagonsofrosé.

Whethercompletorintegral,doughwithahighpercentageofwhole-wheatflourrequireshigherhydrationthanwhitebread,asthebranpresentinthewhole-wheatflourabsorbsmorewater.Itisdifficulttogetthesameopentextureinawhole-wheatloaf.Thebranparticlespuncturethedevelopedglutenwalls,whichpreventsthedoughfromholdingasmuchgasandachievingthesamevolumeaswhiteflourdoes.Isuggeststartingwithacompletdough,whichhasalightertexturethantheintegral,andthenadjustingtheblendbasedonyourpreferences.Theholygrailofawholegrainhearthbreadwithanopencrumblikethebasiccountryloafisonethatcanbeachieved—evenasafleetinganomalywhollydependentontheseasonalqualitiesofthegrainused.It’sabsolutelyworththetroubletogetthere.

AtTartine,wemakeourwholewheatwiththesameleavenweusefortheBasicCountryBread.Somebakersinsistonmaintainingasecondstarterthatis100-percentwholegrainfortheirdarkbread,butforusit’snotworththetrouble.Wholegrain,afterall,contains100percentofthe“white”flour.Ifyouwishtoconvertyourleaventowholegrain,feedyourstarteracoupleoftimeswithallwhole-wheatflourbeforemakingbreadandyou’vegotit.Notethatthefermentationwillbemoreactive,sokeepeverythingabitcoolerand/orfeedwithareducedpercentageofseedstarter(about5percentlesstostart)toaccommodate.

WHOLE-WHEATBREAD

Sincethewhole-wheatflourabsorbsmorewaterthanwhite,thedoughbenefitsfromalongerrestingperiodaftertheinitialmix.Therestforthebasiccountrydoughis25to40minutes;40minutestoanhourisgoodforwholewheat.Some

bakersfavoranovernightrestforwholegrain—atechniqueworthexploringaslongasyouwaittoaddtheleavenuntilyoubegintogivethedoughturns.

Whole-wheatflourfermentsmoreactivelythanwhiteflour,sothisdoughusesslightlycoolerwatertoslowdownthefermentation.Youcanalsoadjustthepercentageofleavenfrom20percentto15percent,butrememberthatacompletebulkfermentationisstillessentialtoachievepropertensioninthedoughbeforeshaping.

Makes2loaves

INGREDIENT QUANTITY BAKER’SPERCENTAGE

Leaven 200grams 20

Water(75°F) 800grams 80

Whole-wheatFlour 700grams 70

All-purposeFlour 300grams 30

Salt 20grams 2

Preparetheleavenasdirectedinstep1oftheBasicCountryBreadrecipe(seepage45).Whentheleavenpassesthefloattest,youarereadytomixthewhole-wheatdough.

Pourthewarmwaterintoalargemixingbowl.Addtheleavenandstirtodisperse.Addthewhole-wheatflourandtheall-purposeflour.Usingyourhands,mixthoroughlyuntilnobitsofdryflourremain.Letthedoughrestinthebowlfor40to60minutes.

Followsteps5through9onpages54to58forfinishingthedoughandsteps1through7onpages65to68forbakingtheloaves.

VARIATIONSONWHOLE-WHEATBREAD

FlaxandSunflowerThiswasanotherbreadwefirstmadeatBourdon’s—aclassiccombinationfoundinGermanwhole-grainbaking.Ifirsttastedthecombinationinsomecornchipsandwasinstantlyhooked.Theflaxseedsaddamoist,supplequalitytothecrumb,andthebreadkeepsexceptionallywell.Aftertheloafisshaped,itisrolledinsunflowerseeds,whichtoastwhilethebreadbakes.

Makes2loaves2cupsflaxseeds4cupsboilingwater2cupssunflowerseeds1recipeWhole-WheatBreaddough(page114)

Beforeyoumixthedough,puttheflaxseedsinabowlandpourtheboilingwateroverthem.Letcool.Theseedswillbecomegooey.

Preheattheovento400°F.Spread1cupofthesunflowerseedsevenlyonarimmedbakingsheet.Baketheseedsfor10minutes.Removefromtheovenandredistributetheseeds—thoseneartheouterrimwillbedarkerthanthoseinthemiddle.Continuetobaketheseedsuntilwelltoasted,about5minutes.Letcoolfor15minutes.

Aftergivingthedoughasecondturn,asinstep5onpage54,addtheflaxseedmixtureandtoastedsunflowerseedstothedoughandmoistenwithalittlewater.Useyourhandstocutandsqueezetheseedsintothedough.Resumethebulkfermentationasdirected.Followsteps6through8onpages56to58fortheinitialshaping,benchrest,andfinalshaping.

Aftercompletingthefinalshaping,puttheremaining1cupsunflowerseedsonaplateortray.Rollthetopofeachloafintheseeds.Iftheseedsdonotstick,moistenthesurfaceofthedoughbyrollingitoverawettowel.Transfereachloaftobasketsorbowlsforthefinalriseasdirectedinstep9onpage58.Bakeeachloaf,followingsteps1through7onpages65to68.

RaisinandCoriander

IlearnedofthecombinationofraisinsandfreshlygroundcorianderseedsagainfromBourdon,whoheldthatcorianderaidedindigestion.AtBerkshireMountainBakery,the“childrens,”asRichardcalledhiskids,oftenateawholewarmloafafterschoolwithbutter.Currantsmaybeusedinplaceoftheraisins.Thisbreadisanothersleeperhitwhenusedtomakegrilledcheesesandwiches.

Makes2loaves3cupsraisins1tablespooncorianderseeds1recipeWhole-WheatBreaddough(page114)

Puttheraisinsinabowlandaddwarmwatertocover.Soaktheraisinsfor30minutes.Drainandreturntothebowl.

Toastthecorianderseedsinasmallskilletovermedium-highheatforabout5minutes.Grindthecorianderseedsinamortarusingapestleorinaspicegrinder.Justbeforemixingthewhole-wheatdough,addthecoriandertotheraisinsandstirtocombine.

Aftergivingthedoughasecondturninstep5onpage54,addtheraisinmixturetothedoughandmoistenwithalittlewater.Useyourhandstocutandsqueezetheraisinsintothedough.Completethebulkfermentationasdirected.

Followsteps6through9onpages56to58forfinishingthedoughandsteps1through7onpages65to68forbakingtheloaves.

PainauGruyère

Oneofmyfavoritewhole-wheatbreadswemakeatTartineisinspiredbythepainauGruyèreIfirsttastedatthebakeryofFernandOnfroyontheRuedeSaintongeinParis.It’smadebyfoldingcoarselygratedGruyèrecheeseandfreshlygroundpepperintothedoughattheendstageofmixing.Therectangularloafisbakedinasmallcedarveneerboxshapedlikeabreadpan,calledapanibois,linedwithparchmentpaper.Cheesemeltsoutofthescoresontopandcaramelizeswiththecrust.ThetoastyagedGruyèreisachoicecomplementtothewholegrain.

Makes2loaves1recipeWhole-WheatBreaddough(page114)10ouncescaveagedGruyèrecheese,gratedOliveoilforbrushing

Mixthewhole-wheatdoughasdirected.Aftertheflourisincorporated,addthegratedcheeseandmixthoroughlywithyourhands.Letthedoughrestinthebowlfor40to60minutes.

Followsteps5through8onpages54to58forfinishingthedough.Instep8,shapethedoughasdirected.Brushtwoloafpanswitholiveoil.Transferthedoughtothepansandletthedoughrisefor2to3hoursbeforebaking.Bakeeachloaf,followingsteps1through7onpages65to68.

COUNTRYRYE

Ryeflourhasadistinctsweetgrainflavorthatdevelopswhenthedoughisfermentedwithnaturalleaven.Forsomeryebreads,suchastraditionalGermanryes,anintenselysourflavorispreferredandisachievedbyalongfermentation.

Forthecountryryeloaveshere,Iusejustenoughryeflourtoimpartadistinctryeflavorandsweetness,whilekeepingsournesstoaminimum.Thewhole-ryeflouraddsaslightgraycastanddistincttendernesstothecrumb.

Whenusingryeincombinationwithwheatflour,youcanvarytheportionofryetosuityourtaste:asyouincreasethepercentageofryeflourtowheat,theloaveswillbecomemoredenseduetothelackofgluteninrye.

Useamedium-finegrindofwhole-ryeflourasopposedtoacoarsepumpernickelrye,whichwillyieldaverydifferentresult.

Makes2loaves

INGREDIENTS QUANTITY BAKER’SPERCENTAGE

Leaven 200grams 20

Water(75°F) 800grams 80

Whole-ryeFlour(medium-fine) 170grams 17

WhiteBreadFlour 830grams 83

Salt 20grams 2

Preparetheleavenasdirectedinstep1oftheBasicCountryBreadrecipe(page45).Whentheleavenpassesthefloattest,youarereadytomixthedough.

Pourthewarmwaterintoalargemixingbowl.Addtheleavenandstirtodisperse.Addtheryeflourandbreadflour.Usingyourhands,mixthoroughlyuntilnobitsofdryflourremain.Letthedoughrestinthebowlfor40to60minutes.

Addthesalt,andfollowsteps5through9onpages54to58forfinishingthedoughandsteps1through7onpages65to68forbakingtheloaves.

CHAPTER3

BaguettesandEnrichedBreads

MAKINGBREADWITHNATURALLEAVENWASTHERULEFORFrenchbakersupuntilacenturyago.Beforetheintroductionofbaker’syeastasweknowittoday,bakersintheeighteenthandnineteenthcenturiesusedbrewer’syeast,aby-productofbeerproduction,tolightentheirloavesincombinationwiththenaturalleaven.Inthelatterpartofthenineteenthcentury,baker’syeastwasdevelopedandbakersstartedtoemployit.Atfirst,bakersadoptedtheinnovationcautiously.Theymixedflourandwatertogetherwithasmallamountofyeastandletitriseforafewhours,justastheyhadbeendoingtomaketheirnaturalleaven.

Thisprefermentedbatterlikeleavencametobeknownasa“poolish”(oftenattributedtoPolishorigin)andwasusedincombinationwithnaturalleaven.Intheseearlydaysofyeast,evenwhenthepoolishwasusedalonetoleaven,thebulkrisewaslengthy,andfinalriseremainedlongandslow.Theresultswereoutstanding:themeasuredadditionofcommercialyeasttothedoughmadebreadthatwaslighterthanever,andtheproperuseofnaturalleavenwithlongbulkrisingtimesensuredthatthebreadhadgoodflavorandexceptionalkeepingqualities.Theoverlaplastedafewdecades.RaymondCalvel,aFrenchbakerwhocameofageintheearlytwentiethcentury(andbecameknownasarenownedandsomewhatidiosyncraticauthorityonFrenchbread),referredtothesedecadesas“thegoldenageofFrenchbread.”Naturalleavenandcommercialyeastwereusedincombinationorexclusiveandapart.Eitherway,bakersatthetimeunderstoodandrespectedthetraditionofgentlemixingandlong,slowrisingtimesatallstagestodevelopflavorandpreservetheintegrityofthecraft.

Thegoldenagewasshort-lived.Naturalleavensrequiremoreworktomaintainconsistentlyinalarge-scalebakery,andbakersabandonedtheage-oldpracticeinfavorofthemoreconvenientcommercialyeast.Asbakersaddedmoreyeasttotheirdough,theyfoundtheycouldinflatetheirdoughquicklyandomitthetime-consumingbulkfermentation.Thismadetheirbakeryproductionmoreefficient,butthequalityofthebreadwasradicallydegraded.Bakerswereaeratingthedoughinsteadoffermentingit,sacrificingflavorandalteringtheverynatureofFrenchbread—thesoulofthebreadhadgonefromit.

Breadthatwasoncereveredaroundtheworldnowgainedthereputationforstalingwithinhours.Consumersbalked.AlthoughbreadwasstillconsideredthestapleoftheFrenchdiet,historiansnotethatbreadconsumptioninFrancesharplydeclinedafterthe1940s.Asbakersadoptedyeast,theystoppedteachingtheirapprenticeshowtobakewithnaturalleaven,andthecollectiveknowledgeofhowtouseitwasalmostlost.

Sincethedemiseofthegoldenage,dogmaandsuperstitionhavekepttheuseofyeastandnaturalleavenmostlyapart.Proponentssplitintodistinctlyopposingcamps.Forthebakerswhoheldontotradition,yeastbecametheenemy.Blameforthedeclineofthestaffoflifefellheavyonthetinymicrobe.IknewofaFrenchbakerwhoturnedaclassofschoolchildrenawayfromtouringhisboulangeriebecausehethoughtthatyeast,hitchingarideonthe

unsuspectingchildren,mightinvadehisbakeshop.Hisconcernswereunfoundedsincetheacidifiedenvironmentofanaturalleavenisnotamenabletocommercialyeast,posinglittledangerofcontamination.

TheartisanbreadrevivalthattookholdintheUnitedStatesinthelate1980shadstartedinFranceadecadeearlier.Manybakeriesproudlyannouncedthattheirbreadwasmadewithoutyeast.Naturallyleavenedbread,aulevainnaturel,wasreclaimingitseminencefromthecenturybefore.Somebakers,especiallyinParisandalsoinahandfulofothercities,wererediscoveringthelevaindepâtemethod,whichharmoniouslycombinednaturalleavenandyeasttomakeahighlyregardedstyleofbread.

AtTartine,IusethepoolishasayeastedliquidleavenincombinationwithournaturalleavenindoughswhenIwanttoachievealightertexture,alesspronouncedacidity,andathinnercrust.ImixthepoolishseparatefromthedoughandusetheamountthatyieldstheresultsIwant.Thebulkfermentationandfinalrisingtimesremainsubstantialandcanbevariedtosuittheneedsoftheday.

BAGUETTES

Justasthecountryloafwasavisionworkedtowardforyears,myidealbaguetteexistedlongbeforeitwasmadebyme.I’msureithasbeenconsistentlymadesomewheresincethebirthoftheFrenchbaguetteintheearlytwentiethcentury,butIhadnotfoundit.Thisbaguettemighthavebeeneasiesttofindintheearly1900s,whencommercialyeastwasproliferating,andbakerswereusingitjudiciously.

IwasconfidentIcouldbringthisearlybaguettetoourtableatTartinebyusingnaturalleavenincombinationwithcommercialyeast.Ifirstmadeabaguetteusingthebasiccountrydough.Thebreadwasadelicious,fiercelycrustyversionofthecountryloafstretchedintoabaguetteshape.Thoughworthmaking,itwasnotthebaguetteIwasaimingfor.Iwantedamoresubtleflavorthanthatofthecountryloafandathin,crispcrust.

Afterafewmonthsoftesting,IgotthebaguetteIwantedbydoublingtheyoungleavenpercentages,addingalargeportionofpoolish,changingtheblendofflours,andextendingthefinalrise.Ipreparedthepoolishinthemannerofourleavenandtrieddifferentpercentages.Thepoolishcontributesflavorinthesamewaythatthenaturalleavendoes,butwithoutthebacterialfermentation,sothereisnoneofthesourflavorfromaceticandlacticacids.Poolishalsoincreasestheextensibilityofthedough,helpingtoformanopen,irregularcrumbandathin,crispcrust.

Fromthefirsttest,IknewthatIwouldnotretardtherisingovernight,asityieldedathickercrustandstrongerflavorthanIwanted.WhenIusedthesameratioof20percentleavenasinthebasiccountrydoughbutbakedthebaguettesthesameday,theresultsweregood.Yettheflavorgainedfromtheleavenwastoosubtle—almostbland—soIincreasedtheamount.EventhoughIwantedtobakethebaguettesthesameday,Ihadtomixthebaguettedoughusingcoolerwater(75°F)thanforthebasiccountrydough,astheadditionofpoolishandmuchlargerpercentageofnaturalleavenincreasedthefermentationactivity.

Sincethebaguettedoughwouldnotberetardedovernight,thefermentationwouldnotbelengthyenoughtotenderizethegluten.Thus,Ichangedourregularmixtureofmostlybreadflour,addingalargeportionoflower-glutenall-purposeflour.Ialsotried5to10percentwhitespeltflour(asaportionofthe100percentflour)insometestversions,withexcellentresults.Speltflouraddsanextremeextensibility,asthegluteninspeltflourhasadifferentcharacterthanthatinall-purposeorbreadflour.Ultimately,Isettledonthemostlyall-purposeblendforthisrecipe.

Aftertheusual3to4hoursofbulkfermentation,thedoughisdividedandshaped.Thedoughissoftandsticky,soIuseamodifiedversionofthetechniqueforshapingthebasiccountrydough.Theshapedbaguettedoughisallowedtoriseforupto3hoursbeforebaking.

Therightbalanceofpoolish,theincreasedamountofyoungleaven,andthesofterflourblend—aftermanymonthsoftesting—yieldedabaguettefortheages.Bakedtoadeepgoldentone,thisbaguettehasthetoastyaromaoffreshlypoppedcorn.

Sincealongbaguettewon’tfitinacombocooker,Irecommendyoubakethebaguettesonarectangularbakingstoneandsaturatetheovenwithsteambeforeloading,continuingforthefirst10to15minutesofbaking(seepage134).Dependingonthesizeofyourbakingstone,youmayneedtoadjustthelengthoftheloavessothattheyfitonthestone.Inadditiontoapizzapeel,youwillwanttohaveahandpeelformovingtheshapeddoughontothepizzapeel.Anarrowrectangleofwoodorarigidcardboardflapfromaboxwillwork.Forscoringthebread,havereadyadouble-edgedrazorbladeinasplintholder(seestep2,page65).

Makes2or3baguettesPOOLISH

200gramsall-purposeflour200gramswater(75°F)

3gramsactivedryyeastLEAVEN

1tablespoonmaturestarter(seepage45)220gramsall-purposeflour220gramswater(80°F)Riceflourfordusting

BAGUETTES

INGREDIENTS QUANTITY BAKER’SPERCENTAGE

Leaven 400grams 40

Water(74°to76°F) 500grams 50

Poolish 400grams 40

All-purposeFlour 650grams 65

BreadFlour 350grams 35

Salt 24grams 2

Tomakethepoolish,inabowl,mixtheflour,water,andyeast.Letstandfor3to4hoursatawarmroomtemperature(75°to80°F)orovernightintherefrigerator.

Tomaketheleaven,placethematurestarterinabowl.Feedwiththeflourandthewater,followingstep1onpage47.

Thepoolishandtheleavenarereadywhentheypassthefloattest.Dropasmallamountofthepoolishandtheleavenintowater.Ifeithersinks,itisnotreadytouseandneedsmoretimetoferment.

Tomixthebaguettedough,measurethe400gramsofleavenandsetasidetheremaindertorefreshandmaintainasyourstarter.Pourthewarmwaterintoalargemixingbowl.Addthepoolishandtheleavenandstirtodisperse.Addtheall-purposeflourandthebreadflour.Usingyourhands,mixthoroughlyuntilnobitsofdryflourremain.Thebaguettedoughinitiallywillfeelalittlestifferthanthebasiccountrydough,butitwillsoftenduringbulkfermentation.Letthedoughrestfor25to40minutes.

Followstep4onpage52totransferthedoughtoaclearcontainerandbeginthebulkfermentationatatemperatureofabout75°F.Turnthedoughaboutevery40minutesasinstructedinstep5onpage54;addthesaltwiththefirstturn.

Whenthebulkfermentationiscomplete,followstep6onpage56todividethedoughintotwoorthreepieces,dependingonthesizeofyourbakingstone.Shapeeachpieceintoarectanglewithroundedcorners.Letrestontheworksurfacefor30minutes.

Drapealargekitchentoweloverabakingsheetorcuttingboardanddustwithriceflour.

Workingwithonedoughrectangleatatime,foldthethirdofthedoughclosesttoyouupandoverthemiddlethird.Holdingtheendsofthedough,stretchithorizontallysothatitdoublesinwidth.Foldthethirdofthedoughfarthestfromyouoverthemiddleoftheelongatedrectangleasifclosingtheflapofanenvelope.Pressonthisflaptodeveloptensioninthedough.Usingyourpalmsandfingerstogether,rollthedoughtowardyou;witheachsuccessiveroll,presswiththeouteredgeofyourpalmsandfingerstofurtherdeveloptensioninthedough.YoushouldendupwithacylinderofdoughshapedlikeaFrenchrollingpin.Placebothpalmsonthedoughcylinderandrollitbackandforth,stretchingthedoughtoelongatetheshapeandtapertheends,whilekeepinginmindthesizeofyourbakingstone.

Shapingbaguettedoughisdifficultbecausemuchmorehandlingisrequiredthanforothershapes.Withpracticeandpersistence,thispartoftheprocesswillbecomesecondnature.

Placetheloavesontheflouredtowelseam-sideupandseparatethemwithfoldsinthetowel.Bringthesidesofthetowelovertheloavestosupporttheouteredges.Letriseatwarmroomtemperature(70°to75°F)for21/2to3hours.

Placethebakingstoneonthemiddlerackoftheovenandpreheattheovento500°F.Whenusingabakingstone,thetrickistosaturatetheovenwithsteamwhenyoustartbaking.Thebestwaytogetasmuchsteamaspossibleintoahomeovenistoplacearimmedbakingsheetlinedwithwater-soakedkitchentowelsinthebottomoftheovenasitispreheating.Astheovenheats,themoistureinthetowelsproducessteam.Ideally,youwanttheoventobesteamingfor15minutesafteryouloadthebaguettestobake.Takecaretogetthebaguettesintotheovenquicklyandshutthedoor;themoresteamthatstaysin

theovenduringthefirstpartofbaking,thebettertheovenspring,orvolume,ofthefinishedloaves.Thesteamwillalsohelpdevelopathin,crispcrustwithaslightsheen.

Usingriceflour,dustapizzapeelanddusttheseamsideofthebaguettes.Holdingthetowel,flipeachloafontoahandpeelandthenslideontothepizzapeel.Placetheloavessidebysideonthepeelabout2inchesapart.Withadouble-edgedrazor,scoreeachloafdownthecenterwithaseriesofslightlyoverlappinglines.Makesureyourovenisfullysaturatedwithsteam;you’llnoticesteamescapingfromopeningsaroundtheoven.Opentheovendoor,slidethebaguettesontothebakingstone,andquicklyshutthedoortoretainasmuchsteamaspossible.Immediatelyreducetheoventemperatureto475°F.

Oncethebaguettesstarttocolor,afterabout15minutes,carefullyremovethepanwiththekitchentowels,whichshouldbedry.Continuetobaketheloavesuntiladeepgoldencolor,10to15minutes.Servewarmfromtheovenorletcoolonarack.

VARIATIONSONBAGUETTES

TorduArusticvariationonthebaguette,thetordu,meaning“twisted,”resemblesthegnarledtrunkofagrapevineandisrarelyfoundinbakeshopsintheUnitedStates.Theloavesofthe“awesomebaker”onthecoastofFrancenearBordeuxweremyintroductiontothetordu,whichremainsoneofthemostelegantshapesexpressedinbreadform.

Makes2or3loaves1recipeBaguettedough(page126)

Preparethebaguettedoughaccordingtotherecipe.Aftershapingthebaguettes,putthemontheflour-dustedtowelandletrestfor5minutes.

Holdingeachendofthedough,twistitinoppositedirectionsasifwringingoutatowel.Returntheloavestotheflouredtowelandletrisefor2to21/2hoursbeforebaking.

Donotscoretheloaves.Bakeasdirectedforthebaguettes.

Fendu

Thefendushape,alsocalledapistolet,isnotscoredpriortobakingandopensalongthecreasedseampreparedcarefullywithriceflourasisourcustom.Ipreferthelookofafinalloafthathasnotopenedperfectlyalongthecreaseand,instead,setsitsownexpressionduringthefinalturnintheoven.

Makes2or3loaves1recipeBaguettedough(page126)

Preparethebaguettedoughaccordingtotherecipe.Afterthebulkfermentationiscomplete,dividethedoughandletitrestasdirected.Then,workingwithonedoughrectangleatatime,foldthethirdofthedoughclosesttoyouupandoverthemiddlethird.Holdingtheendsofthedough,stretchitslightly.Foldtheright

thirdofthedoughoverthemiddleofthedough,andthenfoldtheleftthirdoverthemiddleandthepreviousfold.Next,foldthethirdofthedoughfarthestfromyouoverthemiddleasifclosingtheflapofanenvelope.Pressonthisflaptodeveloptensioninthedough.Usingyourpalmsandfingerstogether,rollthedoughtowardyou;witheachsuccessiveroll,presswiththeouteredgeofyourpalmsandfingerstofurtherdeveloptensioninthedough.Youshouldendupwithasquatovalofdoughwiththeseamfacingdown.

Usingriceflour,dusttheloaflengthwisedownthecenter.Pushthewoodenhandleofabenchknifeallthewaythroughthedoughuntilittouchestheworksurface.Againusingthebenchknife,fliptheloafontoaflour-dustedkitchentowelsothattheseamisfacingup.Letrisefor2to3hours.

Donotscoretheloaves.Bakeasdirectedforbaguettes.

Fougasse

AtraditionalsouthernFrenchflatbread,fougassecanbeflavoredwithherbs,olives,andlardons(friedbaconorporkbelly),andcuttoresemblealeaforladderjustbeforeslidingontothehearthtobake.Thedoughispressedintoarectangularshapeasforfocaccia,andabenchknifeisusedtomakeswift,decisivecutsinthedoughonthepeelbeforeit’scastontothehearthtobake.

Thevariationshownaboveisaplaindoughversionoffougasse.Ifyouwanttoflavorthebreadwithherbs,olives,orlardons,incorporatetheingredientsearlyinthebulkrise,afterthefirstturn,followingthedirectionsforthevariationsonBasicCountryBread(pages88to93).Thejust-bakedfougassecanbebrushedwitholiveoilandseasonedwithsaltandfreshordriedherbsafterit’spulledfromtheoventosuityourtaste.

Makes2or3loaves1recipeBaguettedough(page126)

Preparethebaguettedoughaccordingtotherecipe.Afterthebulkfermentationiscomplete,dividethedoughandletitrestasdirected.Then,workingwithonedoughrectangleatatime,foldthethirdofthedoughclosesttoyouupandoverthemiddlethird.Holdingtheendsofthedough,stretchitslightly.Foldtherightthirdofthedoughoverthemiddleofthedough,andthenfoldtheleftthirdoverthemiddleandthepreviousfold.Next,foldthethirdofthedoughfarthestfromyouoverthemiddleasifclosingtheflapofanenvelope.Pressonthisflaptodeveloptensioninthedough.Usingyourpalmsandfingerstogether,rollthedoughtowardyou;witheachsuccessiveroll,presswiththeouteredgeofyourpalmsandfingerstofurtherdeveloptensioninthedough.Youshouldendupwithaslightlyrectangularcylinderwiththeseamfacingdown.Usingabenchknife,fliptheloafontoaflour-dustedkitchentowelsothattheseamisfacingup.Pressoutthedoughuntilitisabout11/2inchesthick.Letrisefor2to3hours.

Transferthefougasseloavestoaflour-dustedpizzapeel.Usingthebenchknife,makeapatternofcutsinthedough,pushingtheknifeuntilittouchesthepeelandbeingcarefulnottocutthroughtheedgeofthedough.Stretchthecutareastocreateopenings.Bakeasdirectedforbaguettes.

EnglishMuffin

AsanyoneraisedonThomas’,myidealEnglishmuffinisagriddlecakewithatender,open-texturedcrumb—perfectforpoolingmeltingbutterandhomemadejam.

TheobviouschoicefortheopentextureIwantedwasthebasiccountrydough.Earlytestingachieveddecentresults.ButitwasclearIneededaslightlyfirmerdoughtowithstandcuttingitandtransferringittothegriddlewhilemaintainingthecharacteristicroundshape.Thebaguettedoughwasjustright—firmenoughtoholditsshapeandsuppleenoughtogiveanopen-textured,tendercrumb,withextraspringfromthepoolishtomakeanoveralllightermuffin.

Ialsowantedthetechniqueandproductionscheduletoworksothatthedoughwouldbereadytocookinthemorning,thenaturaltimeonewouldmakeEnglishmuffins.Ideally,youwouldbeabletomakethedoughthedaybeforeandstoreitintherefrigeratorovernightsothatitcouldbecookedanytimethenextmorning.Englishmuffinsaregreattoastedandcouldbemadeadayortwoahead,butthereisnothingquitelikeanEnglishmuffinfreshoffthegriddle.

ThekeytoachievingEnglishmuffinswithanopencrumbistokeepthedoughhandlinggentleandtoaminimum.Thedoughneedsasufficientbulkrisetodevelopflavorandpocketsofairthroughout.

Makes12to14Englishmuffins1recipeBaguettedough(page126)Mixofriceandall-purposewheatflourfordustingCornmeal(optional)1cup(1stick)unsaltedbutter

Preparethebaguettedoughaccordingtotherecipe.Allowthedoughtoundergobulkfermentationfor3to4hours.Duringthistime,givethedoughoneortwolightturns.

Placeakitchentowelonarimmedbakingsheetanddustwithriceflourmixture.Besuretoflourthetowelwell.Otherwise,themuffinscanstick,andiftheyareforcedlaterfromthetowel,theywillbemisshapenandwillnotriseevenlywhencooked.AlthoughtheuseofcornmealratherthanflourgivesEnglishmuffinstheirtrademarklook,ittendstoburnwhenthemuffinsarecookedonthegriddle.

Afterthebulkfermentationiscomplete,turnthedoughontothewell-flouredtowelandletrelaxfor10minutes.Dustthetopwithriceflourmixmixtureandpressthedoughfromthemiddleoutwarduntilitis3/4to1inchthick.Evennessismoreimportantthanexactthickness.Coverwithakitchentowelandplaceintherefrigeratortocompletetherisingovernight.

Removethedoughfromrefrigeratorabout30minutesbeforecookingthemuffins.Havereadyacast-ironskilletorgriddle,a3-inchroundcookiecutter,andaspatula.Meltthebutterinasmallsaucepanoverhighheat.Whenthebutterbeginstoboil,pouritthroughafine-meshstrainerintoaheatproofcup.Thebutterdoesnotneedtobeperfectlyclear;removingmostofthemilksolidsissufficienttopreventscorching.

Heattheskilletovermedium-lowheat.Addjustenoughoftheclarifiedbuttertocoatthebottomofthepan.Usingthecookiecutter,cutroundsfromthedoughasyouarereadytoplacetheminthepan.Carefullypickupeachroundandlayitinthepan.A12-inchskilletwillholdtwoorthreerounds.After2minutes,themuffinswillpuffnearly2incheshigh.Don’tworryiftheypuff

unevenly—theywillevenoutwhenturned.Whentheundersidesaregoldenbrown,usethespatulatoturnthemuffins.Pressthemlightlywiththespatulasothattheylieflat.Cookuntilthesecondsidesaregoldenbrown,2to3minutesmore.Thetopsandbottomsshouldbegoldenbrownandcrisp,andtheedgeslightandsoft.

Removethemuffinsfromtheskilletandservewarmorletcoolonarack.Wipetheskilletcleanandrepeattocooktheremainingmuffins.Ifyoulike,dustthefinishedmuffinswithcornmeal.

Toserve,splitthemuffinswithaforkandpullapart.Themuffinswillkeepatroomtemperatureinabreadboxorwrappedinwaxedpapertoretainmoisturefor2to3daysaslongasyoutoastthembeforeserving.Englishmuffinsfreezewellinafreezer-proofcontainer.Thawatroomtemperaturefor2hoursandtoasttorestore.

BRIOCHEANDCROISSANT

“Ilikebread,andIlikebutter—butIlikebreadwithbutterbest.”ThisquotefromSarahWeinerwaswrittenasanodetoherfavoritethings.

Sarahwassevenyearsoldwhenshedeclaredthis—aprecociouschild;thedaughterofafellowbakeranddearfriend,MarianaWeiner,shesummeduptheopinionofanation.

Thealchemyofbreadandbutter:withintheFrenchtradition,therearemasterfulwaysofcombiningthetwotoachieveoutsizedeffect.

Twonotabletechniquesareaddressedhere:briocheandcroissant.Bothbeginasbasicbreaddoughs.Forbriochedough,butterisincorporatedintoaleanbreaddoughtomakeasmoothandsilkyenricheddough.Croissantdough,withbutterenvelopedbetweenlayersofthebreaddough,isanexquisitetransformationofbreadandbutterintoadelicatelylayered,crispandflakypastry.

Traditionally,briochedoughwasmadewithnaturalleaven.Croissantdoughlikelyusedacombinationofnaturalleavenandyeast.Asinthebaguetterecipe,thisisavariationofatechniquedatingbackmorethanacentury,calledlevaindepâte.Thelackofbakersskilledinusingnaturalleavenledtoanalmostcompletelossofthistechniqueformakingenriched,sweetbreads.It’sashame,astheyoungleaventechniqueyieldsextraordinaryresults.

Thesavoryelementthatthecombinednaturalleavenandpoolishbringtothedoughcreatesaperfectbalancewithintherich,butterynatureofthesepastries.Thekeepingqualitiesofcroissantsandbriocheareimprovedbytheuseofleavenandpoolish;evenwhenafewdaysold,theyrestorewellinatoasteroven.

Thedoughforbothcroissantsandbriocheissimilartobaguettedough;milkreplacesthewater,andinthecaseofbrioche,eggsformthemainliquidportion.Eachrecipeusesacombinationofayoungleavenandpoolish.Sugarisaddedtobalancetheflavorwithsubtlesweetness;asmallamountofactivedryyeastensuresadequateovenspringandalighttexturefortheserichdoughs.

BRIOCHE

Briocheistheonlydoughinthisbookrequiringtheuseofanelectricmixer.Along,steadyamountofmixingisrequiredtofullyincorporatethebutter.Thequantityofbutteraddedtothedoughis45percentofthetotalweightoftheflour.Thisbriochehasmanyusessweetandsavory,andkeepswellfordays.

Thisrecipeyieldsnearly4poundsofbriochedough.Becauseoftheadditionofactivedryyeast,thedoughholdsupwelltofreezinginafreezer-proofcontainer.Ifyouareusingfrozendough,movetotherefrigeratorthenightbeforeyouplantouseitandletitthawovernight.Youwillneedmoldsforbakingthebrioche.AtTartine,weuseloafpans.Coffeecansworkwell,too.Whatevermoldsyouchoose,unlesstheyhaveanonsticksurface,brushwithmeltedbutteroroliveoiltopreventsticking.

Makes4to6briocheloavesPOOLISH

200gramsall-purposeflour200gramswater(75°F)3gramsactivedryyeast

LEAVEN

1tablespoonmaturestarter(seepage45)220gramsall-purposeflour220gramswater(80°F)

BRIOCHE

INGREDIENT QUANTITY BAKER’SPERCENTAGE

BreadFlour 1,000g(1kilogram) 100

Salt 25grams 2.5

Sugar 120grams 12

ActiveDryYeast 10grams 1

LargeEggs 500grams 50

WholeMilk 240grams 24

Leaven 300grams 30

Poolish 400grams 40

UnsaltedButter 450grams 45

EGGWASH

2largeeggyolks1teaspoonheavycream

Tomakethepoolish,inabowl,mixtheflour,water,andyeast.Letstandfor3to4hoursatawarmroomtemperature(75°to80°F)orovernightintherefrigerator.

Tomaketheleaven,placethematurestarterinabowl.Feedwiththeflourandthewater,followingstep1onpage47.

Thepoolishandtheleavenarereadywhentheypassthefloattest.Dropasmallamountofthepoolishandtheleavenintowater.Ifeithersinks,itisnotreadytouseandneedsmoretimetoferment.

About30minutesbeforeyouarereadytomixthebriochedough,removethebutterfromtherefrigeratorandletsoftenatroomtemperatureuntilitispliablebutstillcool.

Tomixthebriochedough,attachthedoughhooktoastandmixer.Placetheflour,salt,sugar,andyeastinthemixingbowl.Addtheeggs,milk,leaven,andpoolishandmixonlowspeeduntilcombined,3to5minutes;stopthemixerhalfwaythroughandscrapedownthesidesofthebowlwitharubberspatula.Letthedoughrestinthebowlfor15to20minutes.

Afterthedoughhasrested,mixitonmediumtohighspeeduntilitreleasesfromthesidesofthebowl,6to8minutes.Thisindicatesthatthedoughissufficientlydevelopedtobeginincorporatingthebutter.Makesurethebutterissoftandpliablebutstillcoolandnotmelted.

Cutthebutterinto1/2-inchpieces.Withthemixeronmediumspeed,addthepiecesofbutteroneatatimetothemiddleofthebowlwherethedoughhookmeetsthedough.Continueuntilthebutterisincorporated.Thedoughwillbesilkysmoothandhomogenous,withnovisiblebitsofbutter.

Transferthedoughtoabowlandsetinacoolplace(70°F)for2hoursforthebulkfermentation.Duringthefirsthour,givethedoughtwoturns,followingstep5onpage54.Duringthesecondhour,giveitoneturn.Thisisaveryforgivingdough.Ifyouwanttoshapethedoughthenextday,placethedoughinafreezer-proofcontainerafterthe2-hourbulkfermentationandfreezefor3to5hours,thentransfertotherefrigeratorandstorethereovernight.Ifyouareshapingthedoughandbakingthebriochethesameday,makesurethatthebulkfermentationoccursinacoolplace,orthebutterwillmeltoutofthedough,andthedoughwillfeelgreasy.

Justbeforeshapingthedough,coatthebriochemoldswithbutter.Useadoughspatulatopullthedoughfromthebowlontoanunflouredworksurface.Withabenchknife,cutthedoughintofourtosixequalpieces.Shapeeachpieceintoaloaffollowingtheinstructionsinstep6onpage56.

Placetheshapeddoughinthemoldsandletriseinadraft-freeplaceatawarmroomtemperature(75°F)for11/2to2hours.

Preheattheovento450°F.Tomaketheeggwash,inasmallbowl,stirtogethertheeggyolksand

cream.Brushthetopofeachloafwiththeeggwash.Bakeuntiltheloavesaregoldenbrown,35to40minutes.Unmoldandletcoolonawirerack.Theloavesshouldfeellightinthehandandhavethearomaofbrownedbutter.

OLIVEOILBRIOCHE

ThisversionofbriochecomesfromsouthernFrance,whereoliveoilwasoncemorereadilyavailablethanbutter.Whilebutterbriocheisarichdelicacy,oliveoilbriocheisitssun-bleachedcousin:stronglyflavoredandtiedtothelandofitsorigin.Flavoringwithorangeblossomwater,whilenotessential,istraditionalanddelicious.

Theassertivenessoftheoildependsonthevarietyyouchoose.FortheversionwemakeatTartine,weliketotastetheoliveoilinthefinishedbread,soweuseastrong-flavoredextra-virginoil.Thoughexceptional,theflavorisnotnearlyasdistinctfromthebutterbriocheasyoumightexpect.Oliveoilbriocheisafinesubstituteinanyrecipethatcallsforbrioche.

Thebriochedoughcanbebakedthesamedayorretardedintherefrigeratorovernight;anydoughthatyoudonotusecanbefrozenforuptoaweek.

Makes4to6briocheloavesBRIOCHE

INGREDIENT QUANTITY BAKER’SPERCENTAGE

Poolish 400grams 40

Leaven 300grams 30

BreadFlour 1,000grams(1kilogram)

100

Salt 25grams 2.5

ActiveDryYeast 15grams 1.5

LargeEggs 500grams 50

WholeMilk 240grams 24

Honey 160grams 16

50grams 5

OrangeBlossomWater

Extra-virginOliveOil

450grams 45

EGGWASH

2largeeggyolks1teaspoonheavycream

PreparethepoolishandleavenasdirectedintheBriocherecipe,pages144to149.

Attachthedoughhooktoastandmixer.Placetheflour,salt,andyeastinthemixingbowl.Addtheeggs,milk,leaven,poolish,honey,andorangeblossomwaterandmixonlowspeeduntilcombined,3to5minutes;stopthemixerhalfwaythroughandscrapedownthesidesofthebowlwitharubberspatula.Letthedoughrestinthebowlfor15to20minutes.

Afterthedoughhasrested,mixitonmediumtohighspeeduntilitreleasesfromthesidesofthebowl,6to8minutes.Thisindicatesthatthedoughissufficientlydevelopedtobeginincorporatingtheoliveoil.Withthemixeronmediumspeed,addtheoilinasteadystream,stoppingintermittentlytoallowthedoughtoincorporatetheoil.Afteralltheoilisincorporated,thedoughwillbesilkysmoothandhomogenous.

Transferthedoughtoabowlandsetinacoolplace(70°F)for2hoursforthebulkfermentation.Duringthefirsthour,givethedoughtwoturnsfollowingstep5onpage54.Duringthesecondhour,giveitoneturn.

Thisisaveryforgivingdough.Ifyouwanttoshapethedoughthenextday,placethedoughinafreezer-proofcontainerafterthe2-hourbulkfermentation,freezefor3to5hours,andthentransfertotherefrigeratorandstorethereovernight.

Justbeforeshapingthedough,coatthebriochemoldswithbutter.Useadoughspatulatopullthedoughfromthebowlontoanunflouredworksurface.Withabenchknife,cutthedoughintofourtosixequalpieces.Shapeeachpieceintoaloaffollowingtheinstructionsinstep6onpage56.

Placetheshapeddoughinthemoldsandletriseinadraft-freeplaceatawarmroomtemperature(75°F)for11/2to2hours.

Preheattheovento450°F.Tomaketheeggwash,inasmallbowl,stirtogethertheeggyolksand

cream.Brushthetopofeachloafwiththeeggwash.Bakeuntiltheloavesaregoldenbrown,35to40minutes.Unmoldandletcoolonawirerack.Theloavesshouldfeellightinthehandandhavethearomaofoliveoilandorangeblossoms.

VARIATIONSONBRIOCHE

BeignetsOurbeignets—briochedoughfriedquickly,bathedinlemonglaze,andthentossedwithmaple-glazedpecans—usecomponentsofotherpreparationsthatwealwayshaveonhandatTartine.Thefrittersareconvenienttomakeifyouarealreadypreparingbriochedough.Only200gramsofthedoughneedtobesetasideformakingthebeignets.

Makesabout12beignetsAll-purposeflourfordusting200gramsBriochedough(page144)MAPLEPECANS

2tablespoonsmaplesyrup2tablespoonscornsyrup2tablespoonsgranulatedsugar1/8teaspoonsalt2cupspecans

LEMONGLAZE

Gratedzestandjuiceof3lemons(about2/3cupjuice)1cupgranulatedsugar1/2cuppowderedsugarOliveorsaffloweroilfordeep-frying

Shapethebeignetsabout2hoursbeforeserving.Lightlyflourthedoughandtheworksurface.Rollthedoughintoacylinderabout1/2inchindiameter.Ifthedoughfeelsasifitwillnotstretchfurther,letitrestfor10minutesandcontinuerolling.Transferthedoughtoacuttingboardandsetinadraft-freeplaceorcoverwithakitchentowel.Letriseuntilthedoughlookssoftandinflated,1to2hours.

Meanwhile,tomakethemaplepecans,preheattheovento400°F.Linearimmedbakingsheetwithparchmentpaper.Inabowl,stirtogetherthemaplesyrup,cornsyrup,granulatedsugar,andsalt.Addthepecansandtosstocoatwiththesyrupmixture.Spreadthepecansinanevenlayeronthebakingsheet.Bakethenutsuntilthesyrupglazebeginstobubbleandthenstirthenutseveryfewminutestodispersetheglaze.Thenutsaredonewhentheglazehasthickenedandthebubbleshaveslowed,about15minutes.Letcoolcompletelyonthepan.Thecoolednutsshouldbecrisp.Finelychopthenuts.

Tomakethelemonglaze,combinethelemonzestandjuiceandthegranulatedandpowderedsugarsinabowlandstirtocombine.

Pouroilintoaheavy,high-sidedpantoadepthof2to3inches.Heattheoilovermedium-highheatuntilitregisters375°Fonadeep-fryingthermometer.

Whendeep-frying,it’sbesttosetupyourpreparealikeanassemblylinesoyoucanworksafelyandefficiently.Setaracknearthestoveandunderitplacealayerortwoofpapertowels.Youalsoneedaslottedspoontoturnthebeignetsandremovethemfromtheoilafterfrying.Cutthedoughonthediagonalintopiecesabout2incheslongorasyoupreferandthenplacenearthestove.

Carefullyslipfourpiecesofdoughintothehotoilandfryuntilgoldenbrown,about1minute.Usingtheslottedspoon,turnthedoughandfryuntilbrownonthesecondside,about1minute.

Carefullyremovethebeignetsfromtheoilandtransfertothewirerack.Frytheremainingpiecesofdough,checkingthetemperatureoftheoilintermittently.Ifnecessary,allowacoupleofminutesfortheoiltoreturnto375°Finbetweenbatches.

Whenthebeignetsarecoolenoughtohandle,diptheminthelemonglazeandtheninthechoppedpecans,coatingthemevenly.Thepecansshouldsticktothebeignet,andtheglazewillhardenslightlyasthebeignetscontinuetocool.Servewarmoratroomtemperature.

BriocheLardon

ThissavorybriochewasinspiredbyoneofmanyextraordinarybitesI’veenjoyedfromAmaryllSchwertner’shandsatBoulette’sLarderinSanFrancisco’sFerryBuilding.Thebread,whichkeepswellforafewdays,isbesteatentoastedwithpeachorplumjam—or,asAmaryllservedit,withfigconserve.Splitandtoasted,thelardonbunholdspromiseofahandsomefriedeggsandwich.

Makes2loaves2poundsBriochedough(page144)8ouncesthick-cutsmokedbaconorpancetta,cutintobatons3/4cuphazelnuts,toastedandcoarselychopped

1smallbunchfreshthyme,stemsremovedGratedzestof1orange1teaspoonfreshlygroundpepper2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,melted

Whenmakingthebriochedough,remove2poundsofthedoughfromthemixingbowlpriortobulkfermentation.

Inawidebowl,stirtogetherthebacon,hazelnuts,thymeleaves,orangezest,andpepper.Addtothebriochedoughand,usingyourhands,mixtocombine.

Letriseatawarmroomtemperature(about80°F)forabout2hours.Givethedoughoneturnperhour,followingstep5onpage54.Brushtheinsideoffourtallringmolds,each4inchesindiameter,withmeltedbutter.Lineabakingsheetwithparchmentpaper.Placethepreparedmoldsonthebakingsheet.Turnthedoughoutontoaworksurfaceanddivideintofourpieces.Formeachpieceintoaroundandplaceinaringmold.

Letriseatawarmroomtemperature(about80°F)for11/2to2hours.Preheattheovento425°F.Bakethebriocheuntilgoldenbrown,35to40

minutes.Unmoldontoawirerack.Servefreshortoasted.

Kugelhopf

AtraditionalAlsatianbriochebread,kugelhopfismadetocelebrateanynumberofdifferentoccasions.Akugelhopfmold,unglazedontheexterior,isgenerallyusedtobakethebread.Ametalbundtpan—whilestrayingfromtradition—worksperfectlywell.Youcanservethekugelhopffreshor,asisthecustom,adayortwoafteritisbaked.

Makes1kugelhopf2poundsBriochedough(page144)1/2cupdriedcurrants

1cupSchnapps,marc,orgrappa1cupdriedapricots,chopped3/4cuppistachios,toasted1/2teaspoongroundcardamom

1tablespoonorangeblossomwater1/2cupunsaltedbutter,melted

12almonds1/4cupconfectioners’sugar

Whenmakingthebriochedough,remove2poundsofthedoughfromthemixingbowlpriortobulkfermentation.

Adayahead,placethecurrantsinasmallbowlandpourintheliquor.Letsoakovernight.Drain,reservingthesoakingliquor.

Inawidebowl,stirtogetherthesoakedcurrants,apricots,pistachios,cardamom,andorangeblossomwater.Addtothebriochedoughand,usingyourhands,mixtocombine.

Letriseatawarmroomtemperature(about80°F)forabout2hours.Givethedoughoneturnperhour,followingstep5onpage54.Turnthedoughoutontoaworksurfaceandshapeintoaround.Brushakugelhopfmoldwithsomeofthemeltedbutterandplaceanalmondineachtopcreasearoundthecrown.Makeaholeinthecenterofthedoughandplacethedough,seam-sideup,inthemold.

Letriseatawarmroomtemperature(about80°F)for11/2to2hours.Preheattheovento425°F.Bakethekugelhopfuntilgoldenbrown,35to

40minutes.Unmoldontoawirerackandbrushwithmeltedbutterwhilewarm.Dustwithsomeoftheconfectioner’ssugarandbrushwiththereservedsoakingliquor.Ifservingthebreadadayortwolater,wrapthecooledkugelhopfandstoreatroomtemperature.Dustwithconfectioner’ssugaragainbeforeserving.

CROISSANTS

Togetfromthebaguettedoughtocroissantdough,thisrecipestartswithvirtuallythesameleandoughbutsubstitutesmilkforthewaterandaddsasmallamountofsugar.Thebutterisenvelopedinthedoughafterthedoughismixed,usingalaminationprocessthatcreatesalternatinglayersofdoughandbutter.Theprocesssoundsmorecomplicatedthanitis—butitresultsinthecrisp,light,multilayeredtextureyouexpectintheclassiccroissant.Awell-madecroissantwillgiveonepause,amomenttoreflectonthepétitengineeringmarvelsetbeforeyou.

Makes14to16croissantsPOOLISH

200gramsall-purposeflour200gramswater(75°F)3gramsactivedryyeast

LEAVEN

1tablespoonmaturestarter(page45)220gramsall-purposeflour

220gramswater(80°F)CROISSANTS

INGREDIENT QUANTITY BAKER’SPERCENTAGE

WholeMilk 450grams 45

Leaven 300grams 30

Poolish 400grams 40

BreadFlour 1,000grams(1kilogram)

100

Salt 28grams 2.8

Sugar 85grams 8.5

ActiveDryYeast 10grams 1

ColdUnsaltedButter

400grams 40

1/2cupall-purposeflourEGGWASH

2largeeggyolks1teaspoonheavycream

Tomakethepoolish,inabowl,mixtheflour,water,andyeast.Letstandfor3to4hoursatawarmroomtemperature(75°to80°F)orovernightintherefrigerator.

Tomaketheleaven,placethematurestarterinabowl.Feedwiththeflourandthewater,followingstep1onpage47.

Thepoolishandtheleavenarereadywhentheypassthefloattest.Dropasmallamountofthepoolishandtheleavenintowater.Ifeithersinks,itisnotreadytouseandneedsmoretimetoferment.

Beforemixingthecroissantdough,removethemilkfromtherefrigeratorandletitwarmtoroomtemperature.

Pourthemilkintoalargemixingbowl.Addtheleavenandthepoolishandstirtodisperse.Addtheflour,salt,sugar,andyeast.Usingyourhands,mixthoroughlyuntilnobitsofdryflourremain.Letthedoughrestfor25to40minutes.

Followstep4onpage52totransferthedoughtoaclearcontainerandletthedoughundergobulkfermentationatawarmroomtemperature(75°to80°F)for11/2hours.Givethedoughoneturnever30minutes,followingstep5onpage54.

Transferthedoughtoaplasticbag,presstoflattenitintoarectangle,andchillitintherefrigeratorfor2to3hours.

Havereadyarollingpinandthe1/2cupall-purposeflour.Preparethebutterjustbeforeyouarereadytolaminatethedoughandbutter.Cutthecoldbutterintocubes.Poundthecubeswiththerollingpinuntiltheycometogetherintoasinglecohesivemass.Incorporatethe1/2cupflourintothebutterasyoupound.Youwantthebuttermasstobethesameconsistencyasthedough.Thegoalistomakethestiff,coldbutterpliablewithoutwarmingit.

Moldthebutterintoarectanglemeasuringroughly8by12inches,placeonasheetofparchmentpaper,andkeepcool.Takecarenottoletthebutterblockchilltothepointthatitisnolongerpliable;otherwiseyouwillhavetopounditagain.Youwantthebuttertomaintainitsspreadablequality,asitwillberolledoutthinnerandthinner,sandwichedbetweenlayersofthedough.

Whenyouarereadytobeginlamination,placethedoughonastableworksurfacedustedwithflourandrollouttoarectanglemeasuringroughly12by20inches.Arrangetherectanglesothatitishorizontal.Workingquickly,placethebutterblockinthecenterofthedough.Foldtherightandleftportionsofthe

doughoverthebutterasifyouarefoldingaletter.Immediatelyturnthedough90degreesandrollitagainintoarectangleabout12by20inches.Dotheletterfoldagain,takingcaretokeeptheedgesoftherectangleevenandunbroken.Thisisyourfirst“turn.”

Wrapthedoughinparchmentpaperandrefrigeratefor1hourtoallowthedoughtorelaxbeforegivingitthesecondturn.Ifyourestthedoughtoolongintherefrigerator,thebutterwillharden.Ifthathappens,removethedoughandlet

itwarmupfor15minutesbeforegivingthenextturn.Cleantheworksurfaceanddustwithflour.Setthedoughonthefloured

surfaceandrollouttoa12-by-20-inchrectangle.Againarrangetherectanglesothatitishorizontalandfoldthedoughasiffoldingaletter,keepingtheedgeseven.Thisisyoursecondturn.Refrigeratethedoughfor1hourtoallowittorelaxwithoutlettingthebutterharden.

Repeattocompleteathirdturn.Youwillhavearectangleofdoughabout8by12inchesand2inchesthick.Thisiscalledablock.Wraptheblockinplasticwraporparchmentpaper,placeinthefreezer,andchillfor1to2hours.

Ifyouintendtofinishthecroissantsthenextmorning,leavetheblockinthefreezeruntiljustbeforeyouretireandthentransferittotherefrigerator.Thedoughwillbereadytorolloutandshapeinthemorning.Youcanstoretheblockinthefreezer,infreezer-proofwrap,forupto3days.Remembertotransfertheblocktotherefrigeratorthenightbeforeyouplantouseit.

Whenyouarereadytoshapethecroissants,linetwobakingsheetswithparchmentpaper.Rollthedoughintoarectangleapproximately18by24inchesandabout1/2inchthick.Cutitinhalftocreatetwolongrectangleseach9by24inches.Usingaknife,cuteachrectangleintosixtoeightequal-sizedtriangles.Rollupeachtriangle,beginningatthewidestside.Placethecroissantsonthepreparedsheets,spacingthematleast11/2inchesapart.Letriseatawarmroomtemperature(75°to80°F)forabout2hours.Thecroissantsarereadytobakewhentheyare50percentlargerthantheiroriginalsize.Theywillbefirmbutpuffedup.

Youcanalsoretardthefinalrise.Thisworkswellifyoushapethecroissantsintheeveningandwanttobaketheminthemorning.Arrangethemontheparchment-linedbakingsheets.Wrapthesheetslooselywithplasticwraptokeepthedoughfromformingaskinandrefrigerate.

Preheattheovento425°F.Tomaketheeggwash,inasmallbowl,stirtogethertheeggyolksand

cream.Brushthetopofeachcroissantwiththeeggwash.Bakeuntilthecroissantsaredeepgoldenbrown,crisp,andflaky,about30minutes.Servewarmorletcoolonthepan.Ifnecessary,reheattoserve.

CHAPTER4

Days-OldBread

LIZ,ERIC,NATE,ANDIALLFOUNDOURWAYtobakingthroughthesavorykitchen,asdidMelissaRoberts,whohasmanagedtheTartinepastrykitchenforyears.

Breadisourstaple.Weeatithotfromtheoven,snackonitwhilewemakedinner,andserveitatthetable.Wetoastitforbreakfastandmakesandwichesforlunch.Thelargeloavesareofteneatenoverafewdays.

Ineveryplacebreadisastaple,resourcefulcookshavefoundwaystoincorporateitintoameal,wastingnothing.Inthisrichtradition,therearevastlymoreusesforstalebreadthanhotsandwichesandtoast.

Thethirty-plusrecipesinthischapteraresomeofourfavoritewaystomakeamealfromourdays-oldbread.Allofthebreadsweusehereareinthebookforyoutomake.Thatsaid,youcanuseanybreadyoulikeforthesepreparations.ThelistbeganwiththingsIhadeatenovertheyears,whichhadbeenidealizedinmemory.Manyareclassicrecipesweusedasastartingpointandmadetosuitourtastes.

Onerecipedaily:eachmorning,wediscussedthefoodwe’dmake.WhileLoriorNatemixedthedough,Iwenttothemarket.Midwaythroughthebreadshift,Ericbrokeawaytoprepandcooksometestplatesfortasting.Aftertheday’sbreadwaspre-shapedandduringthebenchrest,weconsideredhowwewantedtopresentthedishforthebook.Testplateswereeatenfordinner.Ifweweren’tsatisfiedwithwhatwegot—wemadeitoveragainthenextday.

Longsummerdaysprovidedeveninglightwhilewecookedandphotographedthefinaldish.Afterwards,wefinishedshapingtheday’sbread,fedthestarters,andshutoffthelights.

Thereisnoendtotheusesofoldbread,andnewideaskeptcoming.WhenwemadetheTroubleAffogato(page277),afteranonstopseasononthisdailyschedule,itseemedafittingendtoourfeast.

Theserecipesareastartingpoint.

FRESHFAVAPANZANELLA

Openabottleofwineandinviteyourfriendsintothekitchenearlytohelpshellthebeans.Afterthebeansareprepared,therestofthissimple,flavorfulsaladcomestogetherquickly.

Theamountofvinaigrettemayseemexcessive,butitisusedtodressboththecroutonsandthevegetables.Panzanellatraditionallycallsforstalebreadsoakedaheadoftimeinwater,presseddry,andthentossedanddressedwiththeotheringredients.Instead,weuseourfriedbreadcroutons.Oncethecroutonsaredressed,theexteriorsoftensslightly,leavingthecontrastinginteriorcrunchintact.

Serves4to61redonion,cutintoslices1/4inchthick1/2cupredwinevinegar

4poundsfavabeans,shelled(yieldsabout4cups)Croutons(page193),madefrom4slicesday-oldBasicCountryBread1bunchmint,stemsremovedLEMONVINAIGRETTE

Gratedzestandjuiceof2lemons1teaspoonsugar1cupoliveoil1/4teaspoonsalt

Placetheonionslicesinabowlandpourthevinegarovertheslices.Addjustenoughwatertocovertheslicescompletely.Setasidefor30minutes.Theonionswillsoftenslightlyandtakeonabrightpinkhue.

Meanwhile,bringapotofwatertoaboil.Fillabowlwithicewaterandplaceitnearthestove.Addthefavabeanstotheboilingwaterandcookfor1minute.Drainandtransfertotheicewatertocool.Peeltheopaqueouterlayerfromeachbean.

Inaservingbowl,combinethefavabeans,croutons,andmintleaves.Removetheonionsfromthevinegarandaddtothebowl.

Tomakethevinaigrette,inasmallbowl,stirtogetherthelemonzestandjuice,sugar,andoliveoil.Seasontotastewiththesalt,addingitapinchatatime.Pourthevinaigretteoverthesaladandtoss.Letstandfor1minutebeforeserving.

TOMATOPANZANELLA

Tomatoeswithbread,artichokesroastedinoliveoil,cucumbers,andshavedParmesancombinetomakealatesummerstaple.Absorbedbythecroutons,thetomatovinaigretteisthehiddenstarofthisquicksalad.Thetomatoseedscarrytheflavorofthefruitandaddbodytothedressing.

Serves4to6ROASTEDARTICHOKECROUTONS

Redwinevinegarorsherryvinegar2poundsbabyartichokes6tablespoonsoliveoilSalt4thickslicesday-oldBasicCountryBread(page45),tornintolargepieces4ouncesfreshParmesancheese

TOMATOVINAIGRETTE

4ripeheirloomtomatoes1/2redonion,finelydiced3tablespoonsredwinevinegarorsherryvinegar1/4teaspoonsalt1cupoliveoil1Englishcucumber1bunchbasil,stemsremoved

Preheattheovento400°F.Fillalargebowlwithwaterandaddageneroussplashofvinegar.Removethetoughouterleavesfromeachartichokeuntilyoureachthetenderleavessurroundingtheheart.Cuttheartichokeinhalflengthwiseandplacethehalvesintheacidulatedwater.

Draintheartichokes,placeinabowl,andtosswith3tablespoonsoftheoliveoilandapinchofsalt.Arrangetheartichokehalvescut-sidedowninalargeskillet.Inthesamebowl,tossthebreadpieceswiththeremaining3tablespoonsoliveoilandapinchofsalt.Placethebreadontopoftheartichokes,gratethecheese

overall,andputthepanintheoven.Roastuntiltheartichokesarecrispyontheoutsideandtenderontheinsideandthebreadisadeepgoldenbrown,15to20minutes.

Meanwhile,tomakethevinaigrette,cuteachtomatoinhalfcrosswise.Holdingeachhalfoverasmallbowl,gentlysqueezeit(asifjuicinganorange)toreleasetheseeds.Reservethetomatoes.Addtheonion,vinegar,andsalttotheseeds,andstirtocombine.Stirintheoliveoil.

Cutthereservedtomatohalvesinto1-inchchunks.Peelthecucumber.Usingamandolineorvegetablepeeler,cutthecucumberlengthwiseintothinstrips.

Inaservingbowl,combinetheartichokes,croutons,tomatoes,cucumber,andbasil.Addthevinaigretteandtoss.Letstandfor3to5minutesbeforeserving.

ESCALIVADA

Anumberofclassicdishesinspiredthisvariationofbreadsalad.Afteramorningatthemarket,IhadonhandtherightmixofProvençalvegetablesformakingaratatouille.Itwasalatesummerday,andtheweathercalledforgrilling.Althoughbagnacauda,awarmsauceofgarlic,oil,andanchoviesseemedtheidealaccompaniment,cooleranchoïadeheldgreaterappeal.EricandIgrilledthevegetablesoverhotcoalsanddressedthemwiththeanchoïade.Ilaterreadthat,intheCatalantradition,thispreparationiscalledescalivada,awordthatreferstocookingthevegetablesoverhotcoals.Theversatileanchoïadeworkswellasasauceformeatorfishandalsoeatenwithfreshcheesesuchasricotta.

Serves4to61largeRosaBiancaorglobeeggplant,cutlengthwiseintoslices1/4inchthick

3zucchiniorothersummersquash,cutlengthwiseintoslices1/4inchthick

6Gypsypeppers,halvedandseeded

1redoryellowonion,cutintoslices1/4inchthick1/2cupoliveoil

4thickslicesday-oldBasicCountryBread(page45)orsimilarbreadANCHOÏADE

2clovesgarlic6oliveoil–packedanchovyfillets1/2cupwalnuts1/2teaspooncorianderseedsGratedzestandjuiceof1lemon1/2cupoliveoil1tablespoonfreshmarjoramleaves1teaspoonfreshthymeleaves1/2cupdriedordarkMissionfigs,choppedSaltandfreshlygroundpepper

2ripeheirloomtomatoes,cutinto1-inchchunks2cupsmixedfreshflat-leafparsleyandbasilleaves8to10freshfigs,halved(optional)

Prepareafireinacharcoalgrill.Brushtheeggplant,zucchini,peppers,andoniongenerouslywitholiveoil.Grillthevegetables,turningasneeded,untiltheysoftenandareslightlycharred,6to8minutes.Removetoabowl.Brushbreadsliceswitholiveoilandgrill,turningasneeded,untilcrispandslightlycharred,about4minutes.Removetothebowlandcuteachsliceinhalf.

Tomaketheanchoïade,placethegarlicandanchoviesinamortarand,usingapestle,poundintoapaste.Addthewalnutsandcorianderseedsandpoundtoincorporateintothepaste.Transfertoabowlandstirinthelemonzestandjuice,oliveoil,marjoram,thyme,anddriedfigs.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.

Arrangethetomatoes,bread,parsley,andbasiltogetheronaplatterwiththegrilledvegetablesandfreshfigs(ifusing).Spoontheanchoïadeoverthetopandserve.

BAGNETVERT

ThistraditionalItaliancondiment(pronouncedBAHN-yet),isrelatedtoSpanishsalsaverde,Italianbagnacauda,andGreekskordalia.Anothersaucewithmanyuses,itistraditionallyeatenwithboiledmeatsandisdeliciouswithprettymuchanythingelse—inthiscase,marinatedanchovies.AtBarTartine,weserveBagnetVertwithBolinasblackcod,cilantroblossoms,andfenneltops.Theincorporationofbreadtransformsthesauceintosomethingmuchmoresubstantial,asublimecombinationofaromaticflavorsboundwithbread.

Serves4to6MARINATEDANCHOVIES

1tablespooncorianderseedsTwo2-ouncecansoliveoil–packedanchovyfillets,drainedGratedzestof1lemonRedpepperflakes1/2cupoliveoil1bunchcilantroblossomsforgarnish(optional)

BAGNETVERT

2cupstornday-oldBasicCountryBread(page45)1tablespoonredwineorsherryvinegar1/2cupwater2cupsfreshflat-leafparsleyleaves,roughlychopped1cupoliveoil1tablespooncapers4oliveoil–packedanchovyfillets1/2teaspoonsaltCilantroblossoms(optional)

Tomakethemarinatedanchovies,inasmallfryingpanovermediumheat,toastthecorianderseeds,stirringoccasionally,untilyousmellthetoastyaromaandtheseedsbegintosmokeslightly,about5minutes.Transfertheseedstoamortarandcoarselycrackwithapestle.Arrangetheanchovyfilletsonaplateand

sprinklewiththelemonzest,corianderseeds,andpepperflakes.Pourenougholiveoiloverthefilletstocoverthem.Letmarinatefor4hoursoruptoovernight.

Tomakethebagnetvert,placethebreadinabowlandtosswiththevinegarandwater.Letsoftenfor5to10minutes.Transferthebreadtoablenderandaddtheparsley,oliveoil,capers,anchovies,andsalt.Blendtoasmoothpuree.Addmorewater,aspoonfulatatime,ifthesauceistoothicktoblend.Tasteandseasonwithsaltifnecessary.

Spoonthebagnetvertonplatesandarrangetheanchoviesoverthetop.Garnishwiththecilantroblossoms,ifdesired.

CROUTONSANDBREADCRUMBS

AfewyearsafterstartingoutinPointReyes,worndownfromthelaborsofmakingbreadinthepreindustrialmannerIhadchosen,Ifoundashort,handwrittennoteslippedunderthebakeshopdoor.ItwasfromAliceWaters.ShehadwrittentocommendmyworkandconveyappreciationforwhatIwasdoing.IhadbeeninspiredmanytimesbyhersinceIfirstbeganworkinginthekitchen,andherwelcomenotegavemeamuch-neededsecondwindatapivotaltimeinmylife.

Sincethoseearlydays,Alicehasgenerouslyofferedheradviceandsupportmanytimes.Whileresearchingrecipesforthischapter,Ithoughttoaskifshecouldpassonanyofherfavoritewaysofusingdays-oldbread,hopingshemighttellmeaboutsomeobscureorantiquatedrecipeIhadneverheardof.

“Breadcrumbs.Wedon’twasteascrapofbreadattherestaurant,”shesaid,referringtoChezPanisse,whichshefoundedin1971.

Thesignificanceofheradvicetookadaytosinkin.Atfirst,Ifiguredshemighthavebeentoobusytosuggestsomethingmoreinteresting.ThenIbeganresearchingthetroveofrecipesthatcallfortoastedbreadcrumbs.Whetherusedasaprincipalingredientorasagarnishtoaddtexture,breadcrumbsarethemostpractical,versatilewaytoturnoldbreadintodinner.Ifyouhavestalebread,youhavethemakingsofasubstantialandthriftymeal.Iwentontofindmanypreparations,myfavoritesnow,inwhichbreadcrumbsareanessentialcomponent.

Aconsummatevisionary,Alicehassoeffectivelypromotedthesustainableconnectionofpeoplewiththeirfood—whereitcomesfrom,howit’sgrown,andhowit’sprepared—thatshehaschangedthewayweeat,shiftingusclosertothesourcesofourfood.Notsatisfiedtoreachonlythediningpublic,sheisworkinghardtoaffectchangeinthepublicschoolfoodsystem.Herdedicationtotheseprincipleshasneverwavered.

Breadcrumbs...Ishouldhaveknown.

CROUTONS

3slicesday-oldbread,each1inchthick,torninto11/2-inchchunks

2tablespoonsoliveoil

Salt1/2teaspoonherbesdeProvence(optional)

Tomakecroutons,preheattheovento400°F.Inabowl,tossthetornbreadwiththeoliveoilandapinchofsalt.Ifyouareusingtheherbs,addthemtoo.Spreadthebreadevenlyonabakingsheetandbakeuntilgoldenbrownandcrisp,about15minutes.Midwaythroughthebakingtime,redistributethecroutonsiftheyarecoloringunevenly.

BREADCRUMBS

Tomakebreadcrumbs,useyourhandsorarollingpintocrushthecroutonstothedesiredconsistency.Forasuperfinetexture,siftthecrumbsthroughasieve.Ifyoulike,adddriedherbsfriedinoliveoil.

AIOLIANDROUILLE

ThewordAioliderivesfromtwoSpanishwordsmeaningliterally“garlic-oil.”Themostelementalversionofthiscondimentismadebygrindinggarlicandsaltintoapaste.Moistenedwitholiveoilandlemon,itturnstoasauce.Tomakearicheremulsion,Iliketostartwithaneggyolk.Thickeningwithbreadisanancientcustomthataddsbodytothesauceandiswell-suitedforuseinsoups.

Rouilleisanaioliflavoredwithsweetredpeppers,turningthesaucefromgoldenyellowtodeepredrust.Usingthemortarandpestleistrulythemostefficientwaytomakethesesaucesquicklyandwiththeleastamountofmess;themortarissetonthetabletoserve.Bothsaucesareeatenwithseafood,meats,andvegetables,andtheyareusedtoflavororgarnishsoupsandbroths.

Makes1cupAIOLI

1clovegarlic,roughlychoppedGratedzestandjuiceof1lemon1/4teaspoonsalt1eggyolk1cupoliveoil1sliceday-oldBasicCountryBread(page45)

ROUILLE

1redbellpepper,peeled,roasted,andseeded1/2teaspoonredpepperflakes1recipeAioli

Tomaketheaioli,combinethegarlic,lemonzest,andsaltinamortarandpoundtoapastewithapestle.Addtheeggyolkand1/2teaspoonofthelemonjuice.Usingthepestle,vigorouslyandconsistentlystirthemixturewhileaddingtheoliveoil,dropbydrop.Afterhalfoftheoilisincorporated,thesauceshouldbecreamyandsmooth,thesignofastableemulsion.Continuingtostir,addtheremainingoilinaslow,thinstream.Themoreoiladded,thethickerthesaucewillbe.Useasmuchoftheremaininglemonjuiceasneededtoflavororthinthe

aioli.Transfertheaiolitoabowl.Placethebreadinthemortarwithaspoonfulofremaininglemonjuiceorwater.Usingthepestle,poundthebreadtoasmoothpaste.Addtheaioliandstirtocombine.Returntothebowlandserve.

Tomakerouille,combinetheroastedpepperandredpepperflakesinthemortarandpoundtoapastewiththepestle.Stirintotheaioliuntilsmooth.Serve.

PANCONTOMATE

Goodtoastwithtomato,extra-specialham,andhardagedcheeseisasummerfavoriteintapasbarsalloverSpain.Itdoesn’tgetmoresencillothanthis.Naturally,usethebest,veryripetomatoesavailableandlotsofoliveoiltofrythebreadproperly.

Serves1Oliveoil—yourbest1slicefreshorday-oldBasicCountryBread(page45)1soft,ripeheirloomtomato,cutinhalfcrosswise1thinslicedry-curedhamsuchasserrano1slicehardagedcheesesuchasManchego

Pour1/4inchofoliveoilintoasmallskilletandheatovermedium-highheat.Addthebreadandfryuntildeepgoldenbrownandverycrisp,about3minutes.Turnandfryuntildeepgoldenbrownandcrispontheotherside.TheroughsurfaceofthebreadformsanaturalMicroplane.Rubthecutsideofthetomatohalvesacrossonesideofthetoastedbreaduntilthepulpisshreddedandthejuicefillstheholesinthebreadwithtomatopuree.Topwiththehamandcheeseandserve.

LATESUMMERBRUSCHETTA

Thechoicecombinationofripetomatoandbasilwithgarlicontoastisfreshagaineachsummerwiththearrivalofthefirsttomatoesandbasiltipsoftheseason.Inspirationsetsinquicklyoncethebountyofsummermounts;goodflavorsfollow.

WestartherewithItaliantradition,addingflavorsfromMexicanstreetvendorsintheneighborhoodwhoseasonfreshfruitwithchile,lime,andsalt;shiftingtheprofileinawaywelike.IfyouaremakingtheEggplantandCharredPepperBruschetta(page204)alongwithoneoftheothers,startbypreparingtheeggplantsothatithastimetoroastandmarinate.Toastthebreadintheovenorfryinoliveoilonthestovetopinaskilletbeforetopping.

Makes6largebruschettapervariation6slicesday-oldBasicCountryBread(page45)Oliveoil

Totoastthebreadintheoven,preheattheovento400°F.Arrangethebreadonabakingsheetandbrushwitholiveoilifdesired.Toastuntilgoldenbrown,10to15minutes.Alternatively,tofrythebread,pour1/4inchofoliveoilintoalargeskilletandheatovermedium-highheat.Addthebreadandfryuntildeepgoldenbrownandverycrisp,about3minutes.Turnandfryuntildeepgoldenbrownandcrisponthesecondside.

TOMATO,MELON,ANDCHILEBRUSCHETTALEMONVINAIGRETTE

Gratedzestandjuiceof2lemons1/2teaspoonsugar,plusmoreasneeded1cupoliveoilSalt

CHILESALT

4driedhotchiles1/2teaspoonsalt

3ripeheirloomtomatoes(about1pound),cutinto1/2-inchchunks

1ripemelon(about1pound),peeled,seeded,andcutinto1/2-inchchunks1/2cupfreshbasilleaves,someleftwholeandsometorn1/2cupfreshmintleaves,someleftwholeandsometorn6slicestoastedBasicCountryBread(page45)

Tomakethevinaigrette,inabowl,stirtogetherthelemonzestandjuice,1/2teaspoonsugar,andtheoliveoil.Seasonwithsugarandsalt.

Tomakethechilesalt,heatasmallskilletoverhighheat.Addthechilesandpressdownonthemwithaspatula.Theywilltoastquickly,inabout3minutes.Turnthechilesandpresswiththespatulatotoastonthesecondsideforabout3minutes.Transferthechilestoamortar;theywillbecomebrittleastheycool.Addthesaltandpoundwithapestleuntilyougetamixtureofpowderandflakes.

Inabowl,combinetomatoes,melon,basil,andmint.Stirinafewspoonfulsoflemonvinaigrette.Spoonthemixtureonthetoastedbread,sprinklewiththechilesalt,andserve.

SUMMERSQUASHANDPEABRUSCHETTA

4zucchiniandsummersquash(about2pounds)Salt1poundsugarsnappeas(about1cup)1/2ripemelon,peeled,seeded,andcutinto1/2-inchchunks1/2cupfreshmintleaves,someleftwholeandsometorn

LemonVinaigrette(facingpage)6slicestoastedBasicCountryBread(page45)6ouncesfreshParmesancheese

Usingamandolineorawidevegetablepeeler,cutthesquashlengthwiseintothinstrips.Putthestripsandapinchofsaltinabowlandtoss.Letstandfor5to10minutes.Freshsquashisbrittle,andthesaltwilldrawoutsomeofthemoistureandmakeitmorepliable.

Addthepeas,melon,andminttothesquashalongwithafewgenerousspoonfulsoflemonvinaigrettetodress.

Spoonthemixtureonthetoastedbread.Usingavegetablepeeler,shavetheParmesanoverthebruschetta.Serve.

EGGPLANTANDCHARREDPEPPERBRUSCHETTASHERRYVINAIGRETTE

1/2redonion1/2cupsherryvinegar1/2cupdriedcurrants2tablespoonssugar1/4teaspoonsalt1/2cupoliveoil

EGGPLANT

3smalleggplants(about1pound)OliveoilSalt1/2cupfreshbasilleaves,someleftwholeandsometorn

CHARREDPEPPERS

1tablespoonoliveoil12PadrónpeppersSalt6slicestoastedBasicCountryBread(page45)

Tomakethesherryvinaigrette,cuttheonionintopaper-thinslices.Placetheslicesinabowlandaddthevinegar,currants,sugar,andsalt.Stirtocombineandletstandfor5minutes.Theonionswillturnbrightpink.Add1/2cupoliveoil.

Topreparetheeggplant,preheattheovento400°F.Lineabakingsheetwithparchmentpaperorarimmednonstickliner.

Cuttheeggplantslengthwiseintoslices1/4inchthick.Generouslybrushbothsidesofeachslicewitholiveoilandarrangeonthepreparedsheetinasinglelayer.Sprinkleliberallywithsalt.Bakeuntiltheslicesareverysoft,about20minutes.Lettheeggplantslicescoolandthentransferthemtoashallowservingdish.Topwiththebasilleavesandpourthesherryvinaigretteovertheslices.Letmarinateforabout30minutesbeforeserving.

Charthepeppersrightbeforeserving,makingsurethekitcheniswellventilated.Placethe1tablespoonoilinaskilletandheatoverhighheat.Whentheoilbeginstosmoke,addthepeppersandcook,withoutmovingthem,for1minute.Shaketheskilletsothepeppersflipover,orturnthemwithaspatula.Cookonthesecondsidefor1minute.Seasonthepepperswithapinchofsaltandtransfertotheservingdishwiththeeggplant.

Spoontheeggplantandpeppersontothetoastedbread.Moistenwiththemarinadeandserve.

Raclette

ThetraditionofraclettebeganinSwitzerland’sValais,butitisalsopopularinFrance’sSavoyregion.LizandIfoundourselvesatmanymemorablelate-nightfeastsintheFrenchAlps,whereweworkedwithPatrickLePortathisBoulangerieSavoyarde.Thesefestivemeals,generouslypreparedbythebakers,oftenendedwiththefirstmorninglight.

Wesetahalfwheelofraclettecheesetoslowlymeltonaslabofstoneinfrontofanopenfire.Aspeciallymadetoolresemblingahoeisusedtoscrapethesoftenedcheeseandspreaditonbread.Racletteisthenameofboththetraditionandthecheese—raclermeaning“toscrape.”Thecheeseistraditionallyeatenwithbakedpotatoes,pickledvegetables,strongmustard,curedmeats,andcopiousvindeSavoie.

Foroutdooroccasions,doasSavoyardshepherdshavedoneforgenerations:buildacampfire,placeaclean,flatrockclosetotheflameandsetaportionofcheeseontopwiththecutsidefacingtheheat.Letthecheesemeltslowlyandspreaditontoastedbread.

Useabout6ouncesofcheeseperperson.

PICKLEDSARDINES

Freshsardinesareaseasonaltreat.Webuylotsofthemwhenthey’reavailable.Grilledandeatenwithdressedshavedfennelandaioli,theymakeafastandeasymeal.Topreservethefishforeatingovertheweek,wefilletandpicklethem.Freshpickledsardinesontoastwithcrushedavocadoisafavoritesnack.Tryfryingthebackbonesinoliveoiltomakeacrisp,deliciousgarnish.GreensfortheherbsaladweuseatTartinearegrownbyourfriendBrookeatLittleCityGardens,justafewdoorsfromthebakery.

Serves4to612freshsardines

1/2redonion,cutinto1/4inchstrips

Gratedzestandjuiceof3lemons1/2cupsugar

1tablespoonsalt1cupoliveoil

1orange,cutcrosswiseintoslices1/8inchthick1/4cupfreshmarjoramleaves,someleftwholeandsometornVINAIGRETTE

2tablespoonsoliveoil2teaspoonsChampagnevinegar1/2teaspoonfinelychoppedshallotSaltandfreshlygroundpepper

HERBSALAD

1cuparugula1/4cupfreshflat-leafparsleyleaves1/4cupfreshcilantroleavesandblossoms1/4cupfreshbasiltips1/4cupfreshchervilleaves1/4cupsmallfenneltops,roughlychopped1/4cupchoppedpurslane1/4cupsunflowerpetalsOliveoil3slicesday-oldBasicCountryBread(page45),eachabout1inchthickGarlicshoots,totaste

Filletthesardinesbymakinganincisionineachfishalongthelengthofthebellyallthewaytothetail.Removethegutsandrinsethefishunderrunningwater.Usingyourfingers,peelthefleshawayfromthebackboneatthetailend.Whenthebackboneisloose,pinchthetailandpullupandtowardthehead,

teasingthebonesfromtheflesh.Cutthefishdownthemiddletoseparateitintotwofillets,andcutaroundeachfillettocleanuptheedges.Reservethebonesifyouwanttofrythemlater.

Placetheonionslicesinabowl,addthelemonzestandjuice,andletstandforabout5minutes.Stirinthesugar,salt,andoliveoil.Layerhalfofthesardinefillets,orangeslices,andmarjoraminashallowdishandpourhalfofthelemon–oliveoilmixtureoverthetop.Repeatwiththeremainingsardinefillets,orangeslices,marjoram,andlemon–oliveoilmixture.Youcaneatthesardineswithinafewminutes,whenthelemonjuicehasbarelybegunto“cook”thefish.Thelongerthefilletsstandintheliquid,themorethoroughlytheypickle.Youcankeepthesardinescoveredintheliquidintherefrigeratorforupto1week.Theflavorsofthemarjoramandorangebecomestronger,andthefleshofthesardinesbecomesfirmerthelongertheyareleftintheliquid.

Tomakethevinaigrette,inasmallbowl,whisktogethertheoil,vinegar,andshallot.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.

Tomaketheherbsalad,inabowl,combinethearugula,parsley,cilantro,basil,chervil,fennel,purslane,andpetals.Addthevinaigretteandtosstocombine.

Pour1/4inchofoliveoilintoalargeskilletandheatovermedium-highheat.Addthebreadandfryuntildeepgoldenbrownandverycrisp,about3minutes.Turnandfryuntildeepgoldenbrownandcrisponthesecondside.

Heat1/2cupoliveoilinasmallskilletovermedium-highheat.Whentheoilishot,addthesardinebonestwoatatimeandfryuntilverycrispyandbrittle,about21/2minutes.Removefromtheoilandseasonwithsalt.

Servethesardinesonthefriedbreadandwiththeherbsalad.MashedripeavocadoandCrystalchilesaucearewelcomeadditions.

SARDINESANDFRESHGARBANZOHUMMUS

Tinnedsardinesontoastandcoldbeerisastapledinnereatenaloneafteralongshift.Here’sanotherversionforcompany.Freshgarbanzobeansareavailableonlyforashortseasonandareworthsearchingout.Driedgarbanzosareafinesubstitute.

Serves2,withleftoverhummusHUMMUS

2poundsfreshgarbanzobeans,shelled,or1pounddriedgarbanzos3clovesgarlic,ifusingfreshgarbanzos1teaspooncuminseeds,toasted,ifusingdriedgarbanzos3tablespoonssesametahini12freshmintleaves,ifusingfreshgarbanzosJuiceof1lemon1/2teaspoonsalt1cupoliveoilOliveoil2slicesfreshorday-oldWhole-WheatBread(page114)1hard-boiledeggOne3.75-ouncecanoliveoil–packedsardines1/2cupchoppedfreshcilantro

Tomakethehummus,ifusingfreshgarbanzos,bringapotofwatertoaboil.Fillabowlwithicewaterandplaceitnearthestove.Addthegarbanzosandgarlictotheboilingwaterandcookfor2minutes.Drainandtransfertotheicewatertocool,thendrainagain.Ifusingdriedgarbanzos,poundthecuminseedsinamortarwithapestletocrackthem.Combinethebeansandcumininasaucepanandaddwatertocover.Bringtoaboil,reducetheheattolow,andsimmer,partiallycovered,untilthebeansarecompletelysoft,21/2to3hours.Removefromtheheatanddrain.

Putthegarbanzos,garlic(ifusing),tahini,mint(ifusingfreshgarbanzos),lemonjuice,andinafoodprocessor.Processuntilsmooth.Withthemotoron,addoliveoilinasteadystreamuntilthehummushastheconsistencyyoulike.

Pour1/4inchofoliveoilintoaskilletandheatovermedium-highheat.Addthebreadandfryuntildeepgoldenbrownandverycrisp,about3minutes.Turnandfryuntildeepgoldenbrownandcrisponthesecondside.

Pressthehard-boiledeggthroughasieve.Spreadthehummusonthefriedbreadandtopwiththesardines.Garnishwiththesievedeggandchoppedcilantroandserve.

CRABSANDWICH

Inspiredbyoneofthegreatestsandwichesevercreated—thelobsterroll—thisisourWestCoastversion.WeuseDungenesscrab,nativetothePacificandavailablebeginninginautumnandlastingintospring.Dressedandservedonacrispygriddledcroissant,wegetadifferent,butequallydecadenttreat.

Serves412to16ouncesfreshDungenesscrabmeat,pickedoverforshellfragments1smallcucumber,peeled,seeded,andfinelychopped1bunchchervil,stemsremoved1bunchtarragon,stemsremovedGratedzestof1lemon2tablespoonsmayonnaise1teaspoonwhole-grainmustard1teaspoonpoppyseeds,lightlytoasted4Croissants(page160),splitandtoasted

Inabowl,combinethecrabmeat,cucumber,chervil,tarragon,andlemonzest.Insmallbowl,stirtogetherthemayonnaiseandmustard.Addtothecrabmeatmixturealongwiththepoppyseedsandturncarefullytocombine.Spoonthecrabsaladontothebottomhalfofeachcroissant.Coverwithtophalvesandserve.

BAYSHRIMPSANDWICH

PopularonthebrunchmenuatBarTartine,thissandwichisalessexpensivebutnolesstastyalternativetothecrabsandwich.

Serves41/2headLittleGemlettuce1/2lemon3/4to1poundcookedbayshrimp1/2cupfinelychoppedfennelbulb1/2cupchoppedfenneltops1/2cupfinelychoppedceleryhearts1/2cupfinelychoppedceleryleaves

2tablespoonsmayonnaise1tablespooncrèmefraîche2tablespoonstroutroe4Croissants(page160),splitandtoastedSalt

Cutthelettuceintoafinechiffonade.Usingamandoline,cutthelemonhalfintothinslices.Inabowl,combinethelettucechiffonade,lemon,shrimp,fennelbulbandtops,andceleryheartsandleaves.Inasmallbowl,stirtogetherthemayonnaiseandcrèmefraîche.Addtotheshrimpmixturealongwiththetroutroeandturncarefullytocombine.Spoontheshrimpsaladontothebottomhalfofeachcroissant.Seasonwithsalt.Coverwithcroissanttophalvesandserve.

KALECAESAR

IgnacioMattos,ourtalentedcheffriend,introducedustothepleasureofeatingwholeleavesofdressedrawkale.Here,weuseblackkale,alsocalledcavalonero,lacinato,Tuscankale,ordinosaurkale.Thestronggreenscarrythebolddressing,makingtheperfectwinterbreadsalad.Eatasmuchasyoulike—thisCaesarisahealthfulone.

Serves4to6CAESARDRESSING

2lemons3clovesgarlic6oliveoil–packedanchovyfillets1largeeggyolkSalt2cupsoliveoil2poundsblackkale,centerstemsremoved,andtornCroutons(page193),madefrom4slicesday-oldBasicCountryBread2/3cupgratedorshavedagedParmesancheese

Tomakethedressing,gratethezestfrom1lemon.Cutbothlemonsinhalf.Placethegarlic,anchovies,andlemonzestinamortarandpoundwithapestletomakeathickpaste.Addtheeggyolk,apinchofsalt,andasqueezeoflemonjuiceandstirthoroughlytocombine.Continuingtostir,pourin1/2cupoftheoildropbydrop.Themixtureshouldlooksmoothandcreamy,asignthatyouarebuildingastableemulsion.Continuingtostir,beginaddingtheoilinaslowstream.Thedressingshouldthicken.Periodicallystoppouringintheoilandaddasqueezeoflemon.Tastethedressingandaddmoresaltandlemonjuicetotaste.Addwater,asmallspoonfulatatime,stirringtothindressingtotheconsistencyofheavycream.

Inalargebowl,combinethekaleandcroutons.Pourthedressingoverthetopandtosstocoat.AddtheParmesan,tossagain,andserve.

TOMATOESPROVENÇAL

Thoughthisclassicisoftenrelegatedtobeingasidedish,themagnificentarrayofheirloomtomatoesweenjoyeverysummerchangestherulesandcallsforthisfavoritetotakeaprominentplaceonthetable.

Serves4to64medium-largeripeheirloomtomatoes(about2pounds),halvedcrosswiseOliveoilSaltBREADCRUMBS

2slicesday-oldBasicCountryBread(page45),eachabout1inchthick1tablespoonherbesdeProvenceGratedzestof1lemon3/4cupgratedagedParmesancheese3tablespoonsoliveoil

Preheattheovento475°F.Arrangethetomatoesonabakingsheet,cut-sideup.Spoonoliveoilontoeachtomatohalfandseasonwithsalt.Bakeuntilthetopsstarttocaramelizeslightly,about15minutes.

Meanwhile,tomakethebreadcrumbs,putthebreadinafoodprocessorandpulsetofinecrumbs.Addtheherbs,lemonzest,Parmesan,andoliveoilandpulsetocombine.

Removethetomatoesfromtheovenandspoongenerousamountsofthecrumbsontothetomatohalves.Bakeuntilthecrumbsarewelltoasted,about15minutes,andserve.

CHILLEDCONSOMMÉWITHSOLDIERS

SetboldagainstmanyfoodmemoriesisabowlofGabrielleHamilton’schilledconsomméeatenonehotEastVillagesummerafternoonatherrestaurant,Prune.Mostpeopleknowclearaspicsonlyfromphotographsinoldcookbooks,butthisloststapleofhautecuisineisworthreviving.Therichqualityofthechickenstockiskeytothisrecipe,bothforflavorandtoensurethereisenoughgelatinsothattheaspicwillsetwhencool.Theglisteningcubesofcoldconsommémeltingonwarmtoastarepowerfullysatisfying.Anytoastisfine—warmisbest.Soldiersarebatonsoftoast,cuttoauniformsize,standingfirmandstraightlikesoldiers.

Serves4to6RICHCHICKENSTOCK

2tablespoonsoliveoil1yellowonion,roughlychopped3carrots,peeledandroughlychopped2stalkscelery,roughlychopped1chicken,about3pounds,gibletsandliverremoved,rinsedandtrimmedofexcessfat6chickenfeet,rinsed4chickenlegs,rinsed6sprigsfreshthyme1bayleaf1/4teaspoonsaltOliveoil4slicesfreshorday-oldBasicCountryBread(page45),eachabout1inchthickTenderfreshherbssuchassorrel,chervil,tarragon,fenneltops,celeryleaves,orbasiltipsforgarnish

Tomakethestock,heattheoilinapotovermediumheat.Addtheonionandcarrotsandcook,stirringoccasionally,untilslightlycaramelized,about10minutes.Addtheceleryandcookfor5minutesmore.Addthechicken,chickenfeetandlegs,thyme,bayleaf,salt,and4quartsofwater.Slowlybringtoa

simmerwhileskimmingoffanyimpuritiesthatrisetothetop.Continuecookingatalowsimmer,uncoveredandskimmingthesurfaceoften,forabout11/2hours.

Removethechickenfromthepot.Discardtheskinandbonesfromthechicken;reservethemeatforanotherusesuchaschickensalad.Strainthestockthroughafine-meshstrainerlinedwithcheeseclothintoalargemetalbowl.Placethebowlinanicebathandstirtocool.Asthestockcools,thefatwillrisetothetop.Skimthefatfromthesurfaceanddiscard.Pourthestockintoacleanpotandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattosimmerandcookuncovereduntilthestockisreducedtoroughly2quarts,about1hour.Strainagainintoametalbowl.Placeinanicebathandstirtocool.Pourthestockintoarectangularglassorenamel-lineddishtoadepthof1/2to1inch.Coverandrefrigerateovernighttoset.Reservetheremainingstockforasoupbaseorotheruses;storeinacoveredcontainerintherefrigeratorforupto3days.

Justbeforeserving,pour1/4inchofoliveoilintoalargeskilletandheatovermedium-highheat.Addthebreadandfryuntildeepgoldenbrownandverycrisp,about3minutes.Turnandfryuntildeepgoldenbrownandcrisponthesecondside.Cutthefriedbreadintostripsabout1/2inchwide.Bringthefriedbreadtothetablewhilestillhot.

Unmoldtheconsomméontoacuttingboard.Cutinto1/2-to1-inchcubesandarrangeonchilledplates.Garnishwiththeherbsandservewiththesoldiers.

WHITEGAZPACHO

Linguistsstilldebatetherootofgazpacho,thenameofthefamousSpanishsoup,citingmanysources,fromtheArabicfor“soakedbread”totheGreekfor“littletreasurehouseofedibles.”Thereisnoargumentthatthebasicpremiseofthesoupisasoldasbreaditself.Romantextsdescribeacoldmashofoldbread,vinegar,andoliveoilas“drinkablefood.”ThesamemashprovidedsustenancetofarmersinfeudalSpain.

Gazpachovariesdeliciously(andseasonally)acrossSpain.Thewhitegazpacho,withitsbaseofbreadandgarlic,predatesthemorecommontomato-basedversionintroducedaftertheSpanisharrivedintheAmericas.Traditionally,theredgazpachoismadeusingbreadtothickenaswell.Usingtheredtogarnishthewhiteisawinningcompromise.

Serves4to6WHITEGAZPACHO

2poundsrawalmonds2clovesgarlic4slicesday-oldBasicCountryBread(page45),eachabout1/2inchthick6cupswater1/2teaspoonsalt1cupoliveoil1/4cupsherryvinegar1/4cuplemonjuice

REDGAZPACHOGARNISH

2cupscherrytomatoes,roughlychopped2cupsseedlessredgrapes,roughlychopped1Englishcucumber,peeledandroughlychopped2tablespoonsoliveoil1tablespoonsherryvinegar1/4teaspoonsaltFreshlygroundpepper

1/4cupfreshmintleaves,chopped

Tomakethewhitegazpacho,bringapotofwatertoaboil.Addthealmondsandgarlicandcookfor2minutes.Drain.Ifyouwantapurewhitegazpacho,removetheskinsfromthealmondswhentheyarecoolenoughtohandleandtrimthecrustsfromthebread.Transferhalfofthealmondsandgarlictoablender.Addhalfofthebreadandwater,alongwiththesalt.Blendonhighspeeduntilthemixtureisthickandsmooth.Addhalfoftheoilandblendagain.Passthegazpachothroughastrainerintoalargebowl.Repeatwiththeremainingalmonds,garlic,bread,water,andoil.Stirinthevinegarandlemonjuice.Thegazpachoshouldhavetheconsistencyofheavycream.Stirinmorewaterifitistoothick.Seasonwithsaltifneeded.Chillthesoupintherefrigeratorfor3to4hours.

Tomaketheredgazpachogarnish,inabowl,combinethetomatoes,grapes,andcucumber.Stirintheoliveoil,vinegar,salt,peppertotaste,andmint.

Toserve,spoonthecoldwhitegazpachointoshallowbowlsandtopwithafewspoonfulsoftheredgazpacho.

SOPADEAJO

Sopadeajo,or“garlicsoup,”isaclassicCastiliandish.Aswithgazpacho,preparationsofandgarnishesforthissoupvaryacrossSpain,butthebaseofgarlicandbreadisconsistent.Mostversionsarefinishedwithwholeeggsoryolks.Youcanmakethestockandcroutonsinadvance,andoncethesetwocomponentsareready,thesoupcomestogetherquickly.Thecroutons,brieflysimmeredinthebroth,gainanephemeralsoftcrunch,whiletheeggyolkenrichesthebroth.

Serves4to61quartRichChickenStock(page223)3tablespoonsoliveoil1headgarlic,peeled,separatedintocloves,androughlychopped1/2cupdrywhitewine

2teaspoonsSpanishpaprikaCroutons(page193),madefrom3slicesBasicCountryBreadChoppedfreshflat-leafparsleyforgarnish4to6largeeggyolks

Pourthestockintoalargesaucepanandbringtoasimmerovermedium-highheat.

Heatalargeskilletovermedium-highheatandaddtheoliveoil.Whentheoilisshimmeringbutnotyetsmoking,addthegarlic,reducetheheattomedium-low,andsautéuntillightgoldenbrown,30secondsto1minute.Addthewineandcook,stirring,untilitevaporates.Addthepaprikaandsautéwiththegarlicfor1minute.

Addthecroutonstotheskilletandpourinthehotstock.Bringtoaboilandsimmerfor2minutes.Removethepanfromtheheat.Garnishwiththeparsley,spoontheeggyolksontothesurface,andserve.

FRENCHONIONSOUP

Theoriginalrecipederivesfromthemostbasicofquicksoups.Onions,alwaysonhand,werefriedinduckfatorbutterandusedtomakeasavorybroththickenedwithbread.Here,weusebothduckfatandbutterwiththeadditionofcream.Theonionsinfusethecreamwithflavor,andasitreduces,themilksolidsthatareleftbehindcaramelizealongwiththeonions.

Serves46largeyellowonions,cutintoslices1/4inchthick

1cupheavycream1tablespoonunsaltedbutter1tablespoonduckfat1teaspoonsalt2cupsdrywhitewine2quartsRichChickenStock(page223)4slicesday-oldWhole-WheatBread(page114)orBasicCountryBread(page45),each1/2to1inchthick

5ouncesGruyèrecheese,grated

Combinetheonions,cream,butter,duckfat,andsaltina3-quartsautépan.Cook,stirringoccasionally,overmediumheatuntiltheonionsaresoftandtranslucent,about10minutes.Adjusttheheatlevelsothattheonionsandcreamcookataslowboil.Spreadtheonionsoverthebottomofthepot,raisetheheatslightly,andcooktheonionswithoutstirringuntilthebottomofthepotbeginstoturnbrown,about6minutes.Stirtheonionswithawoodenspoontoscrapeupthebrownedresidue.Add1/2cupofthewineanddeglazethepot,stirringtoloosenanybrownbitsstickingtothebottom.Continuecookingtheonionswithoutstirringuntilabrownedresidueformsagain,about6minutes.Scrapeupthebrownedresidueanddeglazethepotwithanother1/2cupwine.Repeattheprocesstwomoretimesuntiltheonionstakeonadeepcaramelcolor.

Pourinthestock,bringtoasimmerovermediumheat,andcookuntilthebrothiswellflavoredbythecaramelizedonions,about15minutes.Seasonwithsaltifneeded.

Preheattheovento400°F.Arrangethebreadinasinglelayeronabakingsheet.Toastuntildryandbrittle,about15minutes.Ladlethesoupintoovenproofbowls,fillingthemnearlytotherims.Floatapieceoftoastedbreadoneachserving.SprinklewiththeGruyère.Transferthebowlstothebakingsheetandcarefullyputthesheetintheoven.Bakeuntilthecheeseisbubblyandcaramelized,20to30minutes,andserve.

JambonBuerreTartine

Ham,butter,bread—thesesandwichesstockroad-stopstationsandsupermarketsacrossFrance.AmoresophisticatedversionofthiscombinationcanbefoundinwinebarsinParis,eatenasalightlunchoranafternoonsnackwithaglassofwine.Usethebesthamyoucanfindslicedthin.Cutthesoftbutterasyouwouldcheese,andspreadonthebread.SandwichthehambetweenbutteredslicesoftheBasicCountryBread(page45).

NIÇOISEPANBAGNAT

Asaladeniçoisepressedbetweenbread,thissandwichisidealforadayatthebeachoralonghike.Ifthesandwichispreparedadayinadvance,thebreadsoftensandtheflavorsdevelopovernightasthebreadisbathedwiththedressing.

ItastedmyfirstpanbagnatonadaytripwithLiztoatinyislandoffthecoastofCannesintheFrenchRiviera—ÎleSaint-Honorat,namedforthepatronsaintofbakersandpastrychefs.Nexttotheferrylanding,asaltylocalhadsetupshopsellingtunasandwiches.HemadeoneforususingawholesplitloafwehadbroughtfromDanielColin’sbakery.Wespenttheafternoononanoutcroppingoverlookingthesea,readingandsnackingonthegiantsandwichinthesun.

Thetunacanbepoachedafewdaysaheadoftimeandstoredintherefrigeratorcoveredwithoilinasealedcontainer.Good-qualitycannedtunaisafinesubstitution.Assemblingthesandwichisstraightforward.

Serves4to6TUNACONFIT

2poundsfreshtunafillet,atroomtemperature,cutintothickslicesSaltOliveoil3clovesgarlic3driedchiles3sprigsthyme3sprigsmarjoram3Gypsypeppers

TAPENADE

2cupsniçoiseolives,pittedandchoppedGratedzestandjuiceof1lemon1teaspoonfreshthymeleaves1/4teaspoonredpepperflakes6to8oil-curedanchovyfillets,drained2clovesgarlic,roughlychopped

2tablespoonscapers,drainedandchopped1teaspoonsherryvinegar2tablespoonsoliveoil1or2Baguettes(page126),halvedlengthwise1lemon,cutintopaper-thinslicesOne4-ouncejarcaperberries,drained1/2poundarugula

Tomakethetunaconfit,arrangethetunaslicesinasmallpotsothattheyfitsnuglyinonelayer.Seasonwithsalt.Pourinenougholiveoiltocovertheslicesby1/2inch.Poundthegarlicinamortarwithapestle.Addtothepotwiththechiles,thyme,andmarjoram.Setthepanoverthelowestheatlevelandheatuntiltheoiliswarmtothetouch.Theredhueofthefishwillchangetopinkishgray,anindicationthatthefishiscooking.Continuecookingthefishgentlyfor5minutesoververylowheat.Removefromtheheatandletstandfor15minutes.Letthetunacoolintheoil.Thetunawillkeepinthepot,coveredintheoil,forupto1weekintherefrigerator.

Preheattheovento475°F.Placethepeppersonabakingsheetandroastuntiltheskinisblisteredandblackened,20to25minutes.Putthehotpeppersinapaperbagandletstandforabout8minutessothattheysweatandtheirskinloosens.Whenthepeppersarecoolenoughtohandle,removethecharredskin,stems,andseeds.Transfertoabowl,seasonwithsalt,anddresswitholiveoil.

Tomakethetapenade,combinetheolives,lemonzestandjuice,thyme,redpepperflakes,anchovies,garlic,capers,andvinegarinafoodprocessorandpulsetomakeacoarsepaste.Moistentotastewiththeoliveoil.

Splitabaguetteinhalflengthwiseandspreadthetapenadeononeorbothsides.Removethetunafromtheoil,flakeitwithafork,andlayerevenlyoverthebread.Layertheroastedpeppers,lemonslices,andcapersoverthefish.Finishbyaddingagenerousamountofarugula.Youcanaddmorethanyouthinkbecausethesandwichwillbecompacted.Servethesandwichimmediatelyorwraptightlyinparchmentpaperandtheninplasticwrap.Pressbetweentwobakingsheets,weightingthetopone,andletstandforatleast1hour.Pressinginfusesthebreadwithflavor.Ifdesired,refrigerateovernight.

CLARISE’SMEATBALLSANDWICHES

OnceamonthatTartine,abagofgroundbeeffindsitswayintoourwalk-inrefrigerator.Sincewedon’tusethemeatforanythingontheregularmenu,weknowthatMelissaRobertsismakinghermotherClarise’smeatballsandwichesforfamilymeal.Thegarlic-richpestospreadincludesarugula,whichaddsasharpnotetobalancetherichmeatballsandsauce.

Serves1PESTOSPREAD

1/4cupfinelychoppedgarlic1/4cupfreshflat-leafparsleyleaves,finelychopped1/4cupfreshbasilleaves,finelychopped1/2cupfinelychoppedarugula1/4cuppinenuts,crushed3tablespoonsoliveoil2tablespoonsfinelygratedParmesancheese2teaspoonslemonjuice

1/4teaspoonsaltMEATBALLS

2tablespoonsoliveoil1largewhiteonion,chopped1poundgroundbeefwithatleast20percentfat1poundgroundpork4largeeggs1cupwholemilk1cupgratedRomanocheese1/4cupdryredwine2cupsBreadCrumbs(page193),madefromday-oldBasicCountryBreadorBaguette1bunchflatleafparsley,stemsremovedandleaveschopped11/2teaspoonssalt1/2teaspoonpepper1/4teaspoonredpepperflakes

TOMATOSAUCE

3clovesgarlic,choppedTwo16-ouncecanschoppedtomatoes1loafBasicCountryBread(page45)orBaguette(page126),split8ouncesprovolonecheese,sliced

Tomakethepestospread,combinethegarlic,parsley,basil,arugula,pinenuts,oliveoil,Parmesan,lemonjuice,andsaltinafoodprocessorandpulsetoformapaste.Thespreadcanbemadeupto2daysaheadandrefrigerated.

Tomakethemeatballs,inalargeskilletovermedium-lowheat,warmtheoliveoil.Addtheonionsandsautéuntiltheyaretranslucentandbegintocolor,about15minutes.Removefromtheheatandletcool.Combinethebeef,pork,eggs,milk,cheese,wine,breadcrumbs,parsley,salt,pepper,redpepperflakes,andcooledonionsinalargebowl.Usingyourhands,mixtocombine.Formthemeatmixtureintosmallballsthesizeofapricots.

Heatalargeskilletovermediumheat.Workinginbatches,addthemeatballs,spacingthemabout1/2inchapart,andsearthemwithoutstirringforabout2minutes.Themeatballswillreleasefromthepanwhentheyaresufficientlybrowned.Continuetocookthemeatballsuntilbrownedonallsides.Transfertoaplateandcooktheremainingmeatballs.

Tomakethetomatosauce,drainthefatfromtheskilletandplaceovermediumheat.Addthegarlicandsautéforabout2minutes.Addthetomatoesanddeglazethepan,stirringwithawoodenspoontoscrapeupthebrownedresidue.Bringthetomatoestoaboilandreducetheheattolow.Returnthemeatballstothepanandsimmerfor20minutes.

Preheattheovento350°F.Spreadthetophalfoftheloafwiththepestospread.Spoonthemeatballsandsauceontothebottomhalfandtopwiththeprovoloneslicesandthenthetophalfoftheloaf.Looselywrapthesandwichinaluminumfoil.Bakeuntilthecheesehasmeltedandthebreadiscrispyandtoasted,about25minutes.Letstandfor10minutesandthenunwrapandcutintoslicestoserve.

BÁNH-MÌ

FrenchcolonistsbroughtbaguettesandpâtétoVietnam;theVietnamesecreatedasandwichalltheirown.Bánh-mìliterallymeans“bread.”Whenorderingasandwichinabahn-mishop,youstateyourpreferredfillingfollowingthetermbánh-mì.ThisversionisanhomagetoMaryPhan,acabaretsingerandpastrybakerwhohadchargeofmewhenIstartedmyfirstcookingjobattheFourSeasonsinTexas.Sheadvisedmeagainstacareerinthekitchen,tellingmeIwas“notfitforit.”ShealsomadeformemyfirstVietnamesebaguettesandwichwiththefinestingredientspilferedfromthehotelbakeshopandcharcuteriekitchen.

Thissandwichutilizesleftoversfromtwootherrecipesinthisbook.Youcansetthecomponentsonatableandleteveryonemaketheirown.Don’tpassonthespecialgarlicfishsauceadaptedfromJohnThorn’srecipe—it’sessentialtocapturetheauthenticflavorofthesandwich.

Serves4to8PICKLEDVEGETABLES

3cupsredwinevinegar3cupswater1/2cupsugar2tablespoonssalt1redonion,cutintoslices1/4inchthick1bunchsmallcarrots,peeledandcutlengthwiseintomatchstickstrips1bunchradishes,thinlysliced

GREENAIOLI

1bunchbasil,stemsremoved1bunchcilantro,roughlychopped2cupsQuickAioli(page261)orgood-qualitymayonnaise3clovesgarlic,ifusingmayonnaiseJuiceof2limes1jalapeñoorserranochile,seeded1teaspoonsalt

GARLICFISHSAUCE

4clovesgarlicJuiceandpulpfrom3limes1teaspoonchilioil2tablespoonsVietnamesefishsauce1or2freshlybakedorday-oldBaguettes(page126),eachhalvedlengthwise,dividedinto4sections,andtoasted12slicesPorchetta(page269)or10ouncespork-basedcoldcutsuchasmortadellaorheadcheeseBaker’sFoie(page265)2limes,cutintoquarters

Tomakethepickledvegetables,inalargebowl,stirtogetherthevinegar,water,sugar,andsalt.Addtheonion,carrots,andradishes.Letstandforatleast30minutes.Thevegetableswillsoftenslightly,andtheircolorwillintensify.

Tomakethegreenaioli,put1cupofthebasiland1cupofcilantroinablender.Reservetheremainingherbsforgarnish.Addtheaioliormayonnaise,garlic(ifusingmayonnaise),limejuice,chile,andsaltandprocessuntiluniformlygreenandsmooth.Addaspoonfulofwateriftheaioliseemstoothick.

Justbeforeserving,makethegarlicfishsauce.Poundgarlicinmortarwithpestletoapaste.Addthelimejuiceandpulpandpoundagaintoapaste.Stirinthechilioilandfishsauce.

Setoutservingbowlsofthepickledvegetables,greenaioli,garlicfishsauce,andreservedherbs.Arrangethetoastedbaguettesandporchettaonaservingplatewiththefoie.Assemblesandwichesasyoulikeandgarnishwiththeherbsandasqueezeoflime.

PANADE

PanadeisabasicFrenchpreparationsimilartotheSpanishsopaseca,or“drysoup.”TheItalianversioniscalledribollita,andinMacedonia,paximadia,orrusks,areusedtomakethedrysoup.Thevariationsareinfinite,butthefoundationisalwaysdrybreadmoistenedwithwaterorstockandcookedonthestovetoporintheovenuntilthebreadhasabsorbedalmostalloftheliquid.Rootvegetables,cabbage,greens,andothervegetablesonhandcanbeaddedalongwithherbsandapieceofsmokedmeattoflavorthewhole.Unlikeegg-basedbreadpudding,whichisusuallyeatenfreshfromtheoven,thispanadesetsandretainsitsshapebestonthesecondorthirdday.Itisthencutintowedges,moistenedwithaspoonfulofcream,andreheated.Theseslicesofsavorypiearemuchmorehandsomethanwhenservedstraightoutoftheoven.

Serves4to66tablespoonsunsaltedbutter2leeks,whitepartsonly,finelychopped6cupswholemilkSalt4slicesday-oldBasicCountryBread(page45),eachabout1inchthick1smallbutternutsquash(about1pound),peeled,seeded,andcutintoslices1/4inchthick

1bunchblackkale,stemsremoved

1headcauliflower(about11/2pounds),trimmedandcutinto1/2inchslices1/2poundfontinacheese,thinlysliced

Heavycream(optional)

Preheattheovento375°F.

Melt1tablespoonofthebutterinasaucepanovermediumheat.Addtheleeksandsautéuntilsoftened,about5minutes.Add2cupsofthemilk,theremaining5tablespoonsbutter,and2teaspoonssalt.Bringtoaboilandthenremovefromtheheat.

Coverthebottomofadeep,heavy,5-quartpotwith2ormoreslicesofthebread.Arrangethesquashslicesinanevenlayerontopofthebreadandpourin2cupsofthehotmilkmixture.Topwiththeremaining2breadslicesandthenwiththekale.Arrangethecauliflowerslicesoverthekale.Presstheingredientsdowntocompactthemiftheydon’tquitefitintothepot.

Pourtheremaining4cupsmilkmixtureoverthevegetablesandbread.Stopaddingthemilkwhenthelevelisalmosttotherim.Seasonwithsalt.Coverthepotwiththelidoraluminumfoil.Bakefor30minutes.Uncoverandarrangethecheeseoverthetop.Cover,returntotheoven,andbakeuntiltheliquidisabsorbedandreduced,andthecheesehasmeltedandbrowned,about20minutes.Whenthepanadehascooled,itshouldappeardry.

Serveimmediatelyorletcoolandrefrigerateforupto3days.Toreheat,cutthepanadeintowedgesandputonindividualovenproofplates.Pour1/4cupcreamoverthetopofeachwedgeandbakefor15to20minutesinanovenpreheatedto375°F.

NETTLEFRITATINE

Intenselygreen,nettleshavethedangerousbeautyofstinginghairsthatcoatthestems,distinguishingthemfromotherleafygreens.Thethreatisquicklyneutralizedbyheatingorblanchingthenettlesinboilingwater.Unusuallyhighiniron,protein,andcalcium,nettlesareoftendescribedashavingaflavorsimilartospinach,yetmuchmoreearthyandherbaceous.Ireadamentionoffritatine,aclassicSicilianpreparation,whileresearchingtraditionalstalebreaddishes.Imaginedasasortofomelette,weusedcoarsebreadcrumbs,amplenettles,andjustenougheggtobindthem.Friedinoliveoilandservedwithasimpletomatosauce,fritatineisnowatreasuredfavorite.

Youwillneedabouteightouncesofnettleleavesforthisrecipe—ideallyalargepileofleavesthatwillfilltheskillet.Becausetheuncookedleaveswillsting,handlethemwithtongsorgloves.

Serves1or23tablespoonsoliveoilAbout8ouncesnettleleavesCroutons(page193),madefrom3slicesday-oldBasicCountryBread,crushedtomakecoarsebreadcrumbs1largeegg

11/2cupsTomatoSauce(page255)

Saltandfreshlygroundpepper1lemonwedge

Heataheavy12-inchskilletovermediumheatandadd1tablespoonoftheoliveoil.Whentheoilishotbutnotyetsmoking,addthenettleleaves.Removethepanfromtheheat,andstirandtossthenettlesforabout2minutesastheycontinuecooking.Whenthenettlesarecompletelywilted,removethemfromthepanandchoproughly.

Inabowl,combinethenettles,coarsecrumbs,andegg.Stirwelltocoatthecrumbsandnettleswiththeegg.

Heata6-inchskilletovermediumheatandaddtheremaining2tablespoonsofoliveoil.Whentheoilishot,addthenettlemixtureanddistributeevenlyinthepan.Cookuntiltheedgesappearcrisp,about2minutes.Foldtheomeletteinhalfandcookfor30seconds.Transfertoaplate.

Pourthetomatosauceintotheskilletandheatoverhighheat.Carefullyplacetheomeletteinthesauceandsimmerforabout30seconds.Servewithasqueezeoflemon.

LETOURIN

LeTourinisasustenancesoupthatisatoncebothfoodanddrink.EatenacrosssouthwestFrance,itvariesaccordingtowhat’sonhandinagivenregion.Thisbreadsoupispreparedquicklyandeatenearlyinthedayormiddayasarestorativebeforetheafternoon’swork.Initssimplestform,letourinismadeofonionsfriedinoilorgoosefat,boiledinwater,andthenpouredoverstalebreadandtoppedwithafriedeggseasonedwithvinegar.Here,theliquidisenrichedwithstock,andvegetablesareaddedtomakeameal.

Serves22tablespoonsoliveoilorrenderedduckorchickenfat,plus1/4cup

1bunchyoungcarrots,peeledandcutinhalflengthwise2yellowonions,cutintoquarters1bunchkale,stemsremoved1quartRichChickenStock(page223)2largeeggsSaltandfreshlygroundpepperRedwinevinegar3slicesday-oldWhole-WheatBread(page114)orBasicCountryBread(page45),tornintochunks

Placealargesautépanovermedium-highheatandwarmthe2tablespoonsoliveoil.Addthecarrotsandonionquarters,cut-sidedown.Reducetheheattomediumandcookwithoutstirringuntilslightlycaramelized,5to8minutes.Turnthevegetables,beingsuretocookthesecondcutsidesoftheonionquarters.Cookuntilcaramelized,5to8minutes.Addthekaleandthestockandbringtoaboil.Reducetheheattosimmerandcookfor10minutes.

Heatasmallomelettepanoverhighheat.Addthe1/4cupoliveoil.Whentheoilisshimmeringbutnotyetsmoking,cracktheeggsintothepanwithoutbreakingtheyolks.Fryforabout21/2minutes,carefullyspooningsomeofthehotoilover

theeggstohelpcookthetops.Carefullypourofftheexcessoil.Seasontheeggswithsalt,pepper,andvinegar.

Setthetornbreadandvegetablesinheatproofbowls.Pourthehotstockoverthebreadandvegetables.Topwiththefriedeggsandserve.

GARBANZOBREAKFASTSOUP

Lateonenight,IglimpsedthisTunisianworker’sbreakfast,calledleblebi,onatraveldocumentary.Bowlsofgarbanzobeans,spices,preservedfish,anddrybreadwerearrayedinclayvesselsonalargetable.Workersbroughttheirownutensilsandchosehowmuchofeachitemtheywanted.Theirbowlswerefinishedwithaladleofhotstockandtoppedwithasoftpoachedegg.Chermoula,aregionalsaucethatgoeswellwithmostanything,finishesthissoupwell.

Serves4to66cupsRichChickenStock(page223)GARBANZOBEANS

2poundsfreshgarbanzobeans,shelled,or1pounddriedgarbanzobeans1teaspooncuminseeds,ifusingdriedgarbanzos1yellowonion,roughlychopped,ifusingdriedgarbanzos2teaspoonssalt,ifusingdriedgarbanzos

HARISSA

1Gypsypepper4driedchiles1tablespooncuminseeds1teaspoonfennelseeds1teaspooncorianderseeds8clovesgarlic,chopped1/4teaspoonsalt1/2cupoliveoil

CHERMOULA

2shallots,finelychoppedZestandjuiceof2lemons2clovesgarlic,finelychopped1cupfreshmintleaves,finelychopped1cupfreshcilantroleavesandstems,finelychopped

1tablespooncorianderseeds,toastedandcrushed3tablespoonscuminseeds,toastedandcrushed1tablespoonsweetpaprika3serranochiles,seededandfinelychopped1/2cupoliveoil

Croutons(page193),madefrom6slicesday-oldBasicCountryBreadorWhole-WheatBread1/2to3/4poundsTunaConfit(page233)ortwo6-ouncecansoliveoil–packedtuna,drained1/2teaspoonsalt

4to6eggs3tablespoonscuminseeds,toastedandground,forgarnish(optional)

Preparethestockasdirected;omitthechickenfeetifyoulike.

Ifusingfreshgarbanzos,bringasaucepanwith2quartsofwatertoaboil.Addthegarbanzosandcookfor2minutes.Drain.Ifusingdriedgarbanzos,combinethegarbanzos,cuminseeds,onion,andsaltinasaucepanandadd2quartsofwater.Bringtoaboil,reducetheheattolow,andsimmer,partiallycovered,untilthebeansarecompletelysoft,2to3hours.Removefromtheheatbutdonotdrain.

Tomaketheharissa,preheattheovento475°F.Placethepepperonabakingsheetandroastuntiltheskinisblisteredandblackened,20to25minutes.Putthehotpepperinapaperbagandletstandforabout8minutessothatitsweatsandtheskinloosens.Whenthepepperiscoolenoughtohandle,removethecharredskin,stems,andseeds,androughlychop.Heatasmallskilletoverhighheat.Addthechilesandpressdownonthemwithaspatula,andtoastfor3to5minutes.Turnthechilesandpresswiththespatulatotoastonthesecondsidefor3to5minutes.Transferthechilestoamortar;theywillbecomebrittleastheycool.Heatthesameskilletovermediumheat.Addthecumin,fennel,andcorianderseedsandtoast,stirringconstantly,untilyousmellthestrongtoastedaroma,6to8minutes.Transfertothemortar.Usingapestle,poundtoafinepowder.Addthechoppedpepper,garlic,andsaltandpoundtoathickpaste.

Pourtheoliveoilinthesameskilletandheatovermedium-highheatuntilitstartstosmoke.Turnofftheheat,carefullyaddthegarlic-spicepaste(itwillbubbleandsputter),andstirgentlywithawoodenspoontodispersethepaste.Lettheharissacoolintheskilletandthentransfertoaservingbowl.

Tomakethechermoula,placealltheingredientsinafoodprocessorandpulsetomakearoughpaste.

Rightbeforeserving,pourthestockintoasaucepanandheatovermedium-highheat.Keepwarm.Drainthegarbanzobeansifnecessary.Dividethecroutons,garbanzobeans,chermoula,andtunaamongservingbowls.

Bringasaucepanwith2quartsofwatertoaboil.Addthe1/2teaspoonsaltandreducetheheattolow.Crackeacheggintoasmallbowl,beingcarefulnottobreaktheyolk.Holdingthebowlnearthesimmeringwaterandtiltingit,slidetheeggintothewater.Cooktheeggsuntiltheyfloattothesurface,justunder2minutes.Useaslottedspoontoremovetheeggsfromthewater.

Ladlethehotstockintothebowls.Placeapoachedeggineachbowlandgarnishwithaspoonfulofharissa.Seasonwithtoastedcuminandserve.

INVOLTINI

Involtini,derivedfromawordmeaning“towraporbundle,”arepreparationsinwhichmeat,fish,orvegetablesarewrappedaroundafillingthatoftenincludesbreadcrumbs.Dependingontherecipe,therollsareservedcoldorbakedwithsauceaswedohere.InsouthernItaly,religioustraditionregardingtheuseofoldbreadadvisesonetowastenone—awelcomerespectforaloaflaboredover.

Serves4to6TOMATOSAUCE

1yellowonion,finelychopped1carrot,peeledandfinelychopped3tablespoonsoliveoilOne3-ouncecantomatopaste3clovesgarlic,finelychopped1teaspoonredpepperflakesOne16-ouncecanwholetomatoesRedwinevinegarSalt

STUFFING

Breadcrumbs(page193),madefrom4slicesday-oldBasicCountryBread,Whole-WheatBread,orSemolinaBread2cupswholemilkricottaGratedzestandjuiceof1lemon1teaspoonfreshthymeleaves1/4teaspoonsalt2or3mediumglobeeggplantsSaltOliveoil1cupheavycream1/2cupfinelygratedAsiagocheese

Tomakethetomatosauce,heatadeepskilletovermedium-highheat.Addtheonion,carrot,and2tablespoonsoftheoliveoilandsautéuntilthevegetablesaresoft,about10minutes.Addtheremaining1tablespoonoliveoilandthetomatopasteandcook,stirringoccasionally,untilthepasteturnsadeeprustyred,6to8minutes.Stirinthegarlicandtheredpepperflakesandcookfor2minutes.Addthewholetomatoes,raisetheheattohigh,andbringtoaboil.Reducetheheattolowandsimmerfor20minutes,usingawoodenspoontomashthetomatoesintochunks.Seasonwithvinegarandsalt.

Meanwhile,tomakethestuffing,inabowl,stirtogetherthebreadcrumbs,ricotta,lemonzestandjuice,thyme,andsalt.

Trimthestemendofeacheggplant.Usingamandoline,cuttheeggplantlengthwiseintoslices1/4inchthick.Youshouldhave12slices.Sprinkletheslicesonbothsideswithsalt,layertheminacolander,andletstandfor1hour.Pressthemoisturefromtheeggplantandblotthemdrywithakitchentowel.Pouroliveoiltoadepthof1inchinadeep,heavysaucepanorlargeskilletandheatto360°Fonadeep-fryingthermometer.Place3or4oftheeggplantslicesinthehotoilandcookuntiltheslicestakeonsomecolor,3to4minutes.Usingtongs,removetheslicesandputinacolandertodrain.Repeatwithremainingslices.

Preheattheovento425°F.Pourthetomatosauceintoamedium-sizedbakingdish.Placeaspoonfuloffillingattheoneendofeacheggplantslice.Rolltheslicearoundthefillingandplaceitseam-sidedowninthedishontopofthetomatosauce.Spoonageneroustablespoonofcreamovereachrolltomoistenit.Bakeuntiltheedgesofsaucearoundthesidesofthedisharedarkandtherollsarenicelycaramelized,20to25minutes.GarnishwiththeAsiagocheesebeforeserving.

SAVORYBREADPUDDING

Thissavorypuddinghasalltheaspectsyoulikeaboutasoufflébutisnearlyimpossibletomessup—itevensouffléswhenbaked.Youcanassemblethedishuptoadayaheadandstoreitintherefrigerator,lettingitcometoroomtemperaturebeforebaking.Bakethepuddinganhourbeforeyouwanttoserveit.Forthemushrooms,weuseamixtureofchanterellesandporcini.

Serves4to61tablespoonunsaltedbutter2leeks,whitepartsonly,finelychopped1/2cupdrywhitewine

Oliveoil2poundsassortedmushrooms,stemstrimmedandcapshalved1headTrevisoorotherradicchio,leavesseparatedCUSTARD

5largeeggs1/2teaspoonsalt1cupheavycream1cupwholemilk1/4teaspoonfreshlygroundpepper1/4teaspoonfreshlygroundnutmeg2teaspoonsfreshthymeleaves2/3cupgratedGruyèreorcheddarcheese3ouncessmokedham,chopped2slicesday-oldBasicCountryBread(page45),tornintolargechunks1/2cupgratedGruyèreorcheddarcheese

Meltthebutterinaskilletovermediumheat.Addtheleeksandsautéuntilsoft,6to8minutes.Addthewineandcook,stirringoccasionally,untilmostofwineevaporates,about5minutes.Removefromtheheat.

Heatalarge,heavy-bottomedskilletoverhighheat.Addenougholiveoiltocoatthebottomofthepan.Whentheoilissmoking,arrangethemushroomscut-sidedowninthepanandcookwithoutstirringuntilsearedandcaramelized,about1minutemore.Stirthemushrooms,addtheradicchio,andcookuntilwilted,about1minute.Seasontotaste.Removefromtheheat.

Preheattheovento375°F.

Tomakethecustard,inabowl,whisktheeggsandsaltuntilwellblended.Addthecream,milk,pepper,nutmeg,thyme,cheese,andhamandwhisktocombine.

Placethebreadchunksinan8-inchsoufflédishandaddtheleeks,mushrooms,andradicchio.Pourinthecustardsothatitcomesallthewaytotherim.Sprinkleevenlywiththecheese.Letstandfor8to10untilthecustardsaturatesthebread.

Bakeuntilthecustardisnolongerrunnyinthecenter,about50minutes.Letthepuddingrestfor15minutesbeforeserving.

BURGER

Therearecountlessgreatburgersoutthere,butthebestonestakethebunseriously.Thisoneincludeslotsofourfavoritethings:itismadefromgrass-fedbeef,assembledonafreshtoastedbriochebunwhichshouldfittheburgersnugly,andpiledwithtoppings.Thepicklescouldn’tbequickertomake.Thetomatojamaddsafamiliarflavorwithasweet,tartbalance.Ribbonfrieswithherbsareanaturalcompaniontotheburger.Havesomeonehelpbyworkingthefryerwhileyougrillthemeat.Youcanbakethebunsandmakethecaramelizedonionsandtomatojamupto3daysahead.

Serves6BRIOCHEBUNS

6piecesBriochedough(page144),about115gramseach2largeeggyolksmixedwith1tablespoonheavycream1tablespoonpoppyseeds1teaspoonsesameseeds

CARAMELIZEDONIONS

2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter2redonions,cutintoslices1/4inchthick1/2teaspoonsalt1tablespoonsherryvinegar

CHERRYTOMATOJAM

6ouncesdry-curedSpanishchorizo,finelychopped1shallot,finelychopped1poundcherrytomatoes1teaspoonfreshmarjoramleaves1teaspoonfreshthymeleaves1/2cupdriedcurrants,soakedfor5minutesinwarmwater,drained,androughlychopped2teaspoonssherryvinegar1/2teaspoonpackedbrownsugar1/4teaspoonsalt

QUICKAIOLI

1cupmayonnaise3tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil1clovegarlic,crushedGratedzestandjuiceof1lemon

QUICKPICKLES

1Englishcucumber,cutintoslices1/8inchthick2teaspoonssalt3tablespoonsfreshchoppeddill1cupricewinevinegar1/2cupwater

FRIEDPOTATOES

2poundsrussetorKennebecpotatoes,unpeeled4cupsoliveorpeanutoilSaltandfreshlygroundpepper1cupfreshsageleaves1/2cupfreshmarjoramleaves

BEEFPATTIES

21/2poundsgroundgrass-fedbeefwithatleast20percentfat

11/2teaspoonssalt1/2teaspoonfreshlycrackedpepper8ouncesComtécheese,slicedUnsaltedbutter,softened2avocados,peeled,pitted,andsliced2headsLittleGemoriceberglettuce

Tomakethebuns,startatleast3hoursbeforeservingtheburgers.Formeachpieceofdoughintoabunshape.Placethedoughshapesonabakingsheet,spacingthem6inchesapart.Pressslightlytoflattenandspreadthemabit.Letriseatmoderateroomtemperaturefor11/2to2hours.Preheattheovento450°F.Brushthedoughwiththeeggwashandtopwiththepoppyandsesameseeds.Bakeuntilthebunsaregoldenbrown,about15minutes.

Tomakethecaramelizedonions,meltthebutterinaskilletovermediumheat.Addtheonionsandsaltandcook,stirringoccasionally,untiltheonionsaresoftandtranslucent,10to15minutes.Continuecookingtheonionswithoutstirringuntilthebottomofthepanbeginstoturnbrown,about5minutes.Stirtheonionswithawoodenspoontoscrapeupthebrownedresidue.Cooktheonionsforanother5minuteswithoutstirringuntilabrownedresidueformsagainandthenscrapeuptheresidue.Repeattheprocessuntilonionstakeonadeepcaramelcolor,10to15minutes.Addthevinegaranddeglazethepan,stirringtoscrapeupthebrownedbits,andcookforanotherminute.Transferthecaramelizedonionstoabowltocool.

Tomakethetomatojam,evenlydistributethechorizointhesameskilletoverhighheat.Cookuntilthechorizoreleasessomefat,about5minutes.Addtheshallotandcookuntilsoftened,3to5minutes.Addthecherrytomatoesandcook,stirringoccasionally,untilthetomatoespopandreleasetheirliquid.Reducetheheattomedium,addthemarjoram,thyme,andcurrants,andcook,stirringfrequently,untiltheliquidhasevaporatedandthejamisthick,about15minutes.Stirinthevinegar,brownsugar,andsaltafewminutesbeforethejamisdone.Transfertoabowl.

Tomaketheaioli,inabowl,stirtogetherthemayonnaise,oliveoil,garlic,andlemonzestandjuice.Coverandrefrigerateuntilserving.

Tomakethepickles,inabowl,tossthecucumbersliceswiththesaltanddill.Addthevinegarandwater.Setasideuntilserving.

Topreparethefriedpotatoes,about1hourbeforeyouplantocookthem,useamandolineorwidevegetablepeelertocutthepotatoeslengthwiseintothin,translucentslicesabout1/8inchthick.Stacktheslicesandcutlengthwiseintostrips1/2inchwide.Placethestripsinabowlofcoldwaterandsetasidetosoakforatleast15minutesorupto1hour.

Tomakethebeefpatties,prepareafireinacharcoalgrillabout30minutesbeforeservingtheburgers.Placethegroundbeefinabowland,usingyourhands,workthesaltandthepepperintothemeat.Themeatpattiesshrinkastheycook,soshapethem1/2to1inchlargerindiameterthanthebuns.Sprinklealittlesaltoverbothsidesofthepatties.Grillthepattiesfor3minutesoruntildonetoyourpreference.Turnthepatties,topwiththecheeseslicesandsomeofthecaramelizedonions,andgrilluntilthecheesehasmeltedandtheburgersaresearedonthesecondside,about3minutes.Transfertoaplateandletrestfor2minutes.

Cutthebunsinhalfandspreadthecutsidesofbothhalveswiththesoftenedbutter.Placethehalvesonthegrill,buttered-sidedown,andtoastuntilgoldenbrown,about2minutes.

Heattheoilinadeep,heavypotoranelectricdeepfryerto375°Fonadeep-fryingthermometer.Lineaplatewithpapertowelsandputnearthestoveorfryer.Workinginsmallbatches,grabahandfulofthepotatoesandletthewaterdrainoffasmuchaspossible.Placethepotatoesintheoil;becareful,astheoillevelwillrisequickly.Frythepotatoesuntilgoldenbrown,givingagentlestir,about3minutes.Usingastrainer,transferthepotatoestothepapertowels.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.Repeattheprocesstocooktheremainingpotatoes,

takingcaretoletoilreturnto375°F.Whenthepotatoesaredone,frythesageandmarjoramleavesinthehotoiluntilcrisp,about10seconds.Removeandtosswiththefries.

Bringtheplateofpatties,andthegrilledbuns—alongwiththetomatojam,aioli,avocados,andlettuce—tothetable.Assembleburgersasyoulikeandaccompanywithfriedpotatoes.

BAKER’SFOIE

DanielColin’sBoulangerieArtisanalewasinanancientstonebuilding.Thegroundfloorheldapastrykitchen,abreadworkshop,amassivewood-firedoven,andashopforsellingbakedgoodsandpreparedfoods.Freshjarsofpâtéandjamwerealwaysontheledgenexttotheoven.Wespreadthemonwarmbreadasabakers’snack.

Irarelyhavethetimerequiredtomaketraditionalpâtés.Soweworkedupaquickanddeliciousrecipethatsatisfiesourpâtécravings.Ittastesasifyouspentmoretimeandresourcesthanyouactuallydid.Thetrickistomakesurethebutterisatroomtemperatureandthelivershavecooledbeforeyoublendthetwo.Thepâtéistoppedwithalayerofcognac-infusedbutterbeforerefrigerating,gildingthebaker’sfoie.

Serves4to66duckorchickenliversOliveoil3shallots,finelychopped1tablespoonfreshthymeleaves6tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature1/2cupcognac1/2teaspoonsaltCOGNACBUTTER

3tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature1tablespooncognacPinchofsalt3slicesBasicCountryBread(page45)orWhole-WheatBread(page114),toasted

Rinsetheliversincoldwaterandremoveanyvisiblefatorconnectivetissue.Heataheavyskilletoverhighheatandaddenougholiveoiltocoatthebottomofthepan.Whentheoilbeginstosmoke,carefullyaddtheliversandsearforabout30seconds.Quicklyturnthelivers,addtheshallots,andsearforanother30seconds.Addthethymeandcookforafewsecondsuntilitisaromatic.Removethepanfromtheheatandpourofftheexcessoilandfat.Whilethepan

isstillhot,add2tablespoonsofthebutterand1/4cupofthecognac,anddeglazethepan,stirringtoloosenanybrownbitsstickingtothebottom.Transferthecontentsofthepantoafoodprocessorandletcoolfor8to10minutes.

Oncethelivershavecooled,addtheremaining4tablespoonsbuttertothefoodprocessorandprocesstoathickpuree.Addthesaltandtheremaining1/4cupcognacandprocessagain.Tasteandaddmoresaltifneeded.Pourtheliverpureeintoramekinsorintoasuitablysizedloaforpâtépan.

Tomakethecognacbutter,placethebutterinasmallbowl.Inasmallsaucepan,heatthecognacuntilitishottothetouch.Addittothebutteralongwiththesalt.Stirthebutteruntilithasaliquidconsistencyandthenpouritevenlyoverthepâté.Coverandrefrigerateuntilthecognacbutterhasset.Servecooloratroomtemperaturewithtoast.

PORCHETTA

Porchettaisaregalwaytocookaporkshoulder.Bakedforeighthoursorlongeratalowoventemperature,themeatbastesitselfandfillsthekitchenwithasublimesavoryaroma.It’sbesttopreparethismeatthenightbeforeyouwanttoserveit.Whenyoutakeitoutoftheoveninthemorning,youcaneatasliceforbreakfastwitheggsandtoast.ServetheporchettawithpolentaanduseleftoversforBành-Mìsandwiches(page241).

Serves4to65poundsbonelessporkshoulder1teaspoonsaltSTUFFING

1bunchflat-leafparsley,stemsremoved12freshsageleaves1tablespoonfreshrosemaryleaves2tablespoonsfreshthymeleaves1cupfenneltops,chopped1/4teaspoonredpepperflakes1tablespoonfennelseeds5clovesgarlic2teaspoonssalt4slicesday-oldBasicCountryBread(page45),eachabout1inchthick,tornintosmallchunks3tablespoonsoliveoilOliveoil

Haveyourbutcherbutterflytheporkshouldertoaneventhicknessof1inch.Youshouldhavealongsheetofmeatroughly9by14inches.Laytheporkshoulderoutflatonacuttingboard.Seasonwith1teaspoonsalt.

Preheattheovento220°F.

Tomakethestuffing,inafoodprocessor,combinetheparsley,sage,rosemary,thyme,fenneltops,redpepperflakes,fennelseeds,garlic,andsalt,andpulsetochop.Addthebreadandoliveoilandpulsetocombine.

Spreadthestuffingevenlyoverthesurfaceofthemeat.Beginningononeside,rollthemeatuptightandsecurewithbutcher’stwine.

Placetherollonasheetofaluminumfoil.Foldthesidesofthefoilupandaroundbothendsofroastandthenrolltheroasttoencloseitinthefoil.Thishelpsretainthemoistureandfatwhiletheroastiscooking.Placetheroastonabakingsheetandbakeuntilthemeatisverytender,8to10hours.

Leavethealuminumfoilontheroastwhileitcools.Refrigerateforatleast2hourstoallowtheroasttofirmupandholditsshape.

Removetheroastfromthefoilandcutoffthetwine.Cuttheroastcrosswiseintoslicesabout1inchthick.Heataheavyskilletovermediumheat.Whentheskilletishot,addenougholiveoiltocoverthebottomofthepan,andaddasmanyslicesofporchettaaswillfitinthepan.Cooktheslicesuntilbrown,3to5minutes.Turnandcookuntilbrownedonthesecondsideandheatedthrough,2to4minutes.Serve.

TARTINEBAKEDFRENCHTOAST

WhenweconsideredouridealFrenchtoastatthebakery,weimaginedathicksliceofourbreadsetrichwithbakedcustard.Thetopwouldbecrispyandcaramelizedlikecrèmebrûlée.Thoughtheresultingrecipeborrowselementsfrombreadpudding,theresultsareunmistakablyFrenchtoast.Thebreadslicesaresoakedinthecustardbaseforatleastanhouraheadoftime,andeachsliceabsorbsmorethanacupofliquid.Thetwolargesliceswillfitinastandardcast-ironskillet,butyoucaneasilydoubleortriplethecustardbasetomakemoretoasts.Intheautumnandwinter,wespreadthetoastwithripepersimmonandeatwithbaconandmaplesyrup.Sautéedapplesorpearswouldbefinestand-ins.

Serves2CUSTARDBASE

3eggs2tablespoonssugarZestof1lemon1/2teaspoonvanillaextract1/4teaspoonsalt1cupmilk2slicesday-oldBasicCountryBread(page45),eachabout11/2inchesthick2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter

MAPLE-GLAZEDBACON

4thick-cutstripsbacon1tablespoonmaplesyrup1veryripeHachiyapersimmon

Tomakethecustardbase,inabowl,stirtogethertheeggs,sugar,lemonzest,vanilla,salt,andmilk.

Placethebreadslicesinthecustardbaseandletstanduntilthebreadissaturated,about1hour.

Preheattheovento350°F.

Heataskilletovermedium-lowheat.Meltthebuttertocoatthebottomofthepan.Lifteachbreadslicefromthecustardbaseandplaceinthepan.Cooktheslicesforabout3minutes,occasionallypressingthemagainstthebottomofthepanwithaspatulasothebottomscookevenly.Thisstepsealsthebottomsoftheslicesbycookingtheouterlayerofcustardbase.Italsopreparesthebreadforreceivingmorecustardbase.

Spoonorladlemorecustardbaseintothecenterofeachbreadslice.Iftheliquidleaksoutofthebreadandontotheskillet,thebreadslicesarenotquitesealed.Continuecookingfor1minute,pressingtheslicesslightlytoseal.Whentheslicesarefullofcustardbase,carefullytransfertheskillettothemiddlerackoftheoven.Donotturnthetoast.

Baketheslicesfor12to15minutesandthengentlyshakethepan.Ifthecustardbaseisstillliquid,continuebakingandcheckagain.Dependingonthethicknessoftheslices,thecustardmaytakeupto20minutestocookallthewaythrough.TheFrenchtoastisdonewhenthecustardseemssolidandeachsliceappearsinflated,asthecustardsouffléswhenfullycooked.

Meanwhile,tocookthebacon,heataskilletovermediumheat.Addthebaconandcookuntilthestripsbegintogetcrispyaroundtheedges,about10minutes.Pourthefatfromthepanandaddthemaplesyruptocoatthebacon.Transfertotheovenalongsidethetoastandbakeuntilthebaconisglazed,about5minutes.

Usingthespatula,removetheFrenchtoastfromtheskilletandplacethem,caramelized-sideupontoplates.Theskilletsideshouldbecaramelizedandcrisp.SpreadtheFrenchtoastwiththepersimmonandservewiththebacon.

LEAVENEDWAFFLES

Usingayoungleavenincombinationwithpoolishinwafflesyieldsthecharacteristicdepthofflavorgainedfromfermentationwithoutthestrongsourness.Theblendoflow-glutenfloursandcornstarchresultsinwaffleswithatender,crispytexture.Ifyoumixthebatterearlyinthemorning,itwillbereadybybrunchtime.Or,youcanmixthebatterbeforeyougotobedandrefrigerateit,covered,untilthemorning,whenyoucanbeattheeggwhitesandfoldtheminjustbeforeyoumakethewaffles.

Serves4to64cupsleaven(seepage47)2tablespoonspoolish(seepage128)2cupswholemilk

11/4cupsall-purposeflour

11/4cupspastryflour2/3cupcornstarch

7tablespoonssugar1tablespoonsalt1/2cupunsaltedbutter,melted,plusmoreforbrushing

6eggs,separated3tablespoonsvanillaextract

Placetheleavenandpoolishinalargebowl.Inasaucepanoverlowheat,warmthemilkuntiljustwarm.Pourovertheleavenandpoolishandstirtocombine.

Siftthefloursandcornstarchintoabowl.Stirin5tablespoonsofthesugarandthesalt.Addthe1/2cupmeltedbutterandtheeggyolkstothemilkmixture.Graduallyaddthedryingredientswhilemixingtoincorporate.Coverandletfermentinawarmplace(80°to85°F)for3to5hours.Thelongeryouletthebatterferment,thestrongertheflavorwillbe.

Justbeforemakingwaffles,inabowl,beattheeggwhiteswiththeremaining2tablespoonsofsugaruntilmediumpeaksform.Addthevanillatothebatter,stirringtoincorporate,andthenfoldinthewhippedeggwhites.

Heatawaffleironorwafflemakeraccordingtothemanufacturer’sinstructionsandbrushwithmeltedbutter.Ladlethebatterontothewaffleironandcookuntilgoldenbrownandcrispy,3to5minutes,dependingonthethicknessofthewafflesandthetypeofwaffleironormaker.Serve.

TROUBLEAFFOGATO

TroubleCoffeeisatForty-sixthAvenueandJudah,afewblocksfromOceanBeachwhereEricandIsurfedformostoftheyear.Aftercolddawnsurfsessions,weheadedtoTroublefor“thehouse”restorative:hotcoffee,thick-cutcinnamontoast,andayoungcoconutservedwithastrawandaspoon–aninspiredcombination.

Italianaffogato,meaning“drowned,”referstoascoopofgelatooricecreamwithespressopouredoverthetop.Thisversionofaffogato,oneofmyfavoritedesserts,isinspiredby“thehouse”atTrouble.Thecrunchybreadcrumbscontrastwiththeexceptionallycreamycoconuticecream.LookforyoungcoconutsatAsianorMexicanproducemarkets.Thegoat’smilkcaramel,orcajeta,isalsosoldatMexicanmarkets.AtTartine,weuseFourBarrelcoffee—ourpeerlessneighborhoodroasterafewblocksfromthebakery.

Serves4to6COCONUTICECREAM

13/4cupsunsweetenedshreddedcoconut4cupsheavycream2cupswholemilk2youngfreshcoconuts9largeeggyolks11/3cupssugar1tablespoondarkrum1teaspoonsalt

CINNAMON–BROWNEDBUTTERBREADCRUMBS

2slicesday-oldBasicCountryBread(page45),eachabout1inchthick3tablespoonsunsaltedbutter1/2cupsugar1teaspoongroundcinnamon1/8teaspoonsalt1/2cupgoat’smilkcaramel

4to6shotshot,freshlypressedFourBarrelespresso

Tomaketheicecream,preheattheovento300°F.Spreadthecoconutonabakingsheetandtoastuntillightgold,15to20minutes.

Combinethecreamandmilkinalargesaucepanandbringtoasimmerovermedium-highheat.Removefromtheheatandstirinthetoastedcoconut.Letinfusefor45minutesandthenstrainthroughafinesieve.Discardthecoconutsolids.Returnthecreammixturetothesaucepan.

Trimthehuskfromeachcoconut,removingitdowntothehardshell.Usingthecornerofthebladenearthebaseofachef’sknifeorcleaver,crackthethin,hardshellandpopthetopoffthecoconut.Drainalltheclearliquid,orcoconutwater,andsavetodrinkorforanotheruse.Usingaspoon,scrapethesoftcoconutfleshfromtheshell.Choproughly.

Inabowl,whisktheyolksandsugar.Bringthecreammixturetoasimmerovermediumheat.Add1cupofthehotcreammixturetotheyolksandstirquicklytotemper.Addanothercupandstiragaintocombine.Pourthecream-yolkmixtureintotheremainingcreammixtureinthesaucepan.Reducetheheattolowandcook,stirring,untilslightlythickened,6to8minutes.Strainthecustardthroughafine-meshsieveintoabowl.Stirintherum,salt,andchoppedcoconut.Coverandrefrigerateovernight.

Tomakethebreadcrumbs,preheattheovento350°F.Lineabakingsheetwithparchmentpaperoranonstickliner.Cutthecrustsfromthebreadslicesandteartheslicesintosmallpieces.Meltthebutterinaskilletovermediumheatandcookuntilitbeginstobrown.Removethepanfromtheheat,addthebreadandsugar,andstirtocombine.Stirinthecinnamonandsalt.Transferthebreadmixturetothepreparedsheetandbakeuntilthesugarandbuttercoatingcaramelizes,20to30minutes.Removefromtheovenandletcool.Transfertoasmallcontainerandstoreinthefreezer.

Processthechilledcoconutmixtureinanice-creammakeraccordingtothemanufacturer’sinstructions.Transfertoacontainer,foldinthebreadcrumbsandgoat’smilkcaramel,andserveimmediately,scoopingtheicecreamintobowlsorcupsandpouringtheespressooverthetop.

BOSTOCK

OurBostockismadefromtoastedbriochebreadsoakedwithanorange-infusedsyrup,spreadwithjamandalmondcream,toppedwithslicedalmonds,andbaked.Itisacloserelativeofthefrangipanecroissant.AtTartine,wemakeextrabriochetosupplyourbostockproduction.Itistheperfectpastrytoenjoywithacaféaulaitorapotoftea.Weliketovarythejams—sometimesusingslightybitterorangemarmalade,andothertimeschoosingasweeterblackberryortartapricot.

Serves4to6ORANGESYRUP

1/4cupwater1/4cupgranulatedsugar1teaspoonorangeblossomwater1/4cuporangejuiceGratedzestof1orange2tablespoonsorangeliqueur

ALMONDCREAM

13/4cupsslicedalmonds1/2cupgranulatedsugarPinchofsalt2largeeggs1/2cupunsaltedbutter2tablespoonsbrandy6slicesBrioche(page144),eachabout1/2inchthick,toasted3/4cuporangemarmalade,apricotjam,orberryjamConfectioners’sugarfordusting

Tomaketheorangesyrup,inasmallsaucepan,combinethewater,sugar,orangeblossomwater,andorangejuiceandzest.Bringtoasimmerovermedium-highheat,stirringconstantly.Whenthesugarhasdissolved,afterabout5minutes,

removefromtheheat.Stirintheorangeliqueur.Letcooltoroomtemperature.

Tomakethealmondcream,combine1cupoftheslicedalmonds,thesugar,andthesaltinafoodprocessorandprocessuntilfinelyground.Addeggsandbutterandprocesstoformapaste.Transfertoabowlandstirinthebrandy.Coverandrefrigerateforatleast1hourorupto3days.

Preheattheovento400°F.Arrangethebriochetoastsonabakingsheet.Usingapastrybrush,thoroughlysoakthetoastswiththesyrupuntiltheyareverymoist.Spreadwithalayerofjamabout1/8inchthickandfollowwithalayerofalmondcreamabout1/4inchthick.Topwiththeremaining3/4cupslicedalmonds.Bakeuntildeepgoldenbrown,15to20minutes.Thealmondcreamwillcaramelize,andthealmondsliceswilltoast.Dustwithconfectioners’sugarbeforeserving.

BABASWITHPROSECCO-POACHEDNECTARINES

Thisversionoftheclassicisbasedonbriochesoakedinarumsyrup.TheFrenchusesavarinmoldstobakethebabasintoaringshape.TheItaliansusemuffin-shapedmolds.Thebakedbriochebabasabsorbthesyrupbetterifmadeadayaheadandallowedtodryoutslightly.Youcanadjusttheamountofruminthesoakerdependingonhowstrongyoulikeit.Ifyouareusingbriochedoughfromthefreezer,letitthawfor30minutesoruntilverycoldbutnolongerfrozenbeforeshaping.

Serves4BABAS

4piecesBriochedough(page144),80gramseachCANDIEDPISTACHIOS

1cupgranulatedsugar1/8teaspoonsalt1/4cupwater1cuprawpistachios

POACHINGLIQUIDANDRUMSOAKER

One750-mlbottledryprosecco1cupgranulatedsugar1vanillabean,cutinhalflengthwise1cupdarkrum

RICOTTAFILLING

2cupswholemilkricottacheese1/2cupdriedcurrantsGratedzestandjuiceof1orange1/2teaspoonvanillaextract1/4cupgranulatedsugar3ripenectarines,pittedandcutintowedgesConfectioners’sugar

Tomakethebabas,atleast3hoursaheadofserving,rolleachpieceofbriochedoughintoacylinderandconnecttheendstoformacrownshape.Placeeachbriocheshapeinabutteredsavarinorringmold.Arrangethemoldsonabakingsheetandletthedoughriseatamoderateroomtemperaturefor2hours.

Preheattheovento375°F.Placethepanwiththefilledmoldsintotheoven.Bakeuntilgoldenbrown,about20minutes.Unmoldthebabasandletcool.

Tomakethecandiedpistachios,lineabakingsheetwithparchmentpaperoranonstickliner.Inasmallsaucepan,stirtogetherthesugar,salt,andwater.Bringtoaboilovermediumheat;donotstirthemixture.Boilthesugarmixtureuntilitreaches320°Fonacandythermometer.Ifyoudonothaveathermometer,watchforthebubblingtosubsideandfortheliquidtoturnlightamber.Removethesaucepanfromtheheat,addthepistachios,andstirtocombine.Emptythecontentsofthesaucepanontothepreparedbakingsheetandspreadoutwithawoodenspoon.Letstanduntiljustcoolenoughtotouch.Workingquicklybeforethesugargetshardandbrittle,separatethepistachiosandtransfertoanotherplatetocoolcompletely.

Tomakethepoachingliquidandsoaker,inasaucepan,combinetheproseccoandsugarandbringtoboil.Usingthebackofaparingknifeoraspoon,scrapetheseedsfromthevanillabeanhalvesintothepan.Addthepodtothepan.Reducetheheattolowandsimmerfor5minutes.Pourallbut1cupoftheliquidintoabowl;addtherumtothebowlmaketherumsyrup.Setasidetocool.Reservetheremaining1cuppoachingliquidinthepan.

Tomakethericottafilling,inabowl,stirtogetherthericotta,currants,orangezestandjuice,vanilla,andsugar.

Soakthebabasintherumsyrupforatleast10minutessotheyarethoroughlysaturated.Bringthereservedpoachingliquidtoalowsimmer,addthenectarines,andpoachuntilthefruitisheatedthroughbutstillholdsitsshape,3to5minutes.Removethebabasfromrumsyrupandarrangeinbowls.Spoonthericottafillingintothecentersofthebabas.Surroundwiththenectarinesandaspoonfulofthepoachingliquid.Garnishwiththecandiedpistachiosanddustwithconfectioners’sugarjustbeforeserving.

SUMMERPUDDING

AtraditionalEnglishpreparation,thispuddingisastraightforwardandsimpleuseofbushberriesdeterminedbywhatisinseasonandmostabundant.Weightingtheberry-filled,bread-linedmoldspressesthejuiceout,whichisabsorbedbythebrioche.Asthepuddingchillsovernight,itsetsupintoadessertthatcanbeslicedlikeapieoreatenwithaspoon.Abalanceofsweetandtartfruitssuchasraspberries,blackberries,blueberries,andhuckleberriesisideal.

Serves4to64cupssoftsummerberriessuchasraspberries,blackberries,blueberries,and/orhuckleberries2/3cupgranulatedsugar

8to10slicesBrioche(page144),eachabout1/4inchthick

1cupheavycream,lightlywhipped1teaspoonconfectioners’sugar

Inasaucepanovermediumheat,combinetheberriesandthesugarandbringtoaboil,stirringconstantly.Cookfor1minuteandremovefromheat.Lineamedium-sizedglassorceramicbowlor4to6smallsoupbowlsorcupswiththebriocheslices.Reserveenoughslicesorpiecesofbriochetocoverthetop(s).Pourtheberriesandjuiceintothemold(s).Reserve2tablespoonsoftheberryjuiceforserving.

Covertheberrieswiththereservedbrioche.Placeaplateontopofeachmoldandweightwithcans(ofsoup,forexample)andrefrigerateovernight.

Unmoldthepudding(s)ontoacuttingboardorservingplatter,orspoonoutportionsintobowls.Topwiththereservedberryjuiceandthewhippedcream.Dustwiththeconfectioners’sugarandserve.

LIZ’SJAM

LizandIfindthatmakingjamisamongthemostsatisfyingprojectsyoucandointhekitchen.Jamispreservedproofofagoodcropoffruit.Itisalsoversatile—whetherservedonacheeseplateorasaccompanimenttoaroastorspreadonfreshlybakedbreadortoast.

Jamsneedthreeingredientstosetproperly:pectin,sugar,andacid.Fruitnaturallycontainspectin,ajellingagent,inanamountthatvariesfromonetypeoffruittoanother.Thefruityouchoosemustberipe,butbesurethat25percentisslightlyunderripe,asthiscontainsmorepectin.Sugaractivatesthepectin,sweetensthejam,andprovidesanacidicenvironmentthatretardsthegrowthofbacteria.Youcanusewhitecanesugarororganic“tan”sugar.Darkerorganicsugars,whicharelessrefined,willgivethejamadifferentflavorthanall-whitesugar.Traditionalrecipestendtocallforaratioof1partfruitto1partsugar.Theseproportionsmakeaverysweetjamwithmoresyrupandfewerfruitsolids.Therecipehereuseslesssugar,whichresultsinathickerjam.Acidisaddedintheformoflemonjuice.

Ifyouaremakingjamwithlow-pectinfruits,youcancombinethemwithamajorityofhigh-pectinfruit.Or,youcanaddappletoboostthepectin.Foreach500gramsoflow-pectinfruit,use1largeunpeeledapple.Cuttheapple,includingthecore,into1-inchpieces,placeonasquareofcheesecloth,bringupthecorners,andtiefirmlywithkitchenstring.Cooktheapplealongwiththefruitanddiscardthecheeseclothbundlebeforeladlingthejamintojars.

Jamshouldbecookeduntilitreaches221°F.Forevery1,000feetabovesealevel,subtract2°F.Forexample,ifyourkitchenis2,000feetabovesealevel,cookthejamuntilitis217°F.

High-PectinFruitsApplesBerries:blackberries,boysenberries,gooseberries,loganberries,raspberriesCitrus:oranges,tangerines,grapefruit,lemonsincludingMeyer,limes,kumquatsConcordgrapesQuince

Low-PectinFruitsBerries:blueberries,strawberriesFigsItalianplumsPearsStonefruits:apricots,cherries,nectarines,peaches

BasicJamRecipe1kilogram(1,000grams)fruit750gramssugarJuiceof1largeor2smalllemons

Washjarsandtheirlidsandmetalscrewbandsinhotsoapywaterandrinsethoroughlywithveryhotwater.Jamyieldvariesdependingonwhichfruitandhowmuchsugaryouuse.Threeandahalfpoundsoffruit,ingeneral,willyieldten8-ouncejars.Tosterilizethejars,placethemuprightinalargepot,addhotwatertocoverthejars,bringtoaboil,andboilfor15minutes.Placethelidsandbandsinasaucepan,addhotwatertocover,bringtoaboil,andboilfor15minutes.Alsowashtheutensilsyou’llneed—woodenspoon,ladle,canningfunnel,andjarlifter—andrinsewithhotwater.Removethejars,lids,andbandsfromtheboilingwaterandsetasideonacleanworksurface.

Washthefruitandremoveanystemsorleaves.Cutthefruitinto1/2-to1-inchpiecesorslices.Combinethefruit,sugar,andlemonjuiceinanonreactivepot,makingsurethatthefruitis3inchesbelowtherimofthepot.Ifyouareusingfruitthatisonthedrierside,suchasapricots,startbypouring1/2cupwaterper500gramsoffruitintothepot.Cookthefruitovermediumheat,stirring,untilthefruitstartstoreleaseitsjuicesandthesugarbeginstodissolve.

Raisetheheattohighandcontinuetocookthefruit,stirringasneededtopreventthefruitfromstickingtothebottomofthepot.Whenfoamstartstoformonthetopofthefruit,skimitoffwiththeladleorwoodenspoon.Thejamwillbubblevigorouslyatfirstandthenwillbubblemoreslowly.Whenthejamreaches220°to222°Fonathermometer,turnofftheheatandwaitafewminutesforthetemperaturetocomedownafewdegrees.Ifthejamisput

immediatelyintojars,thefruitwillfloattothetopofthesyrup.Thetemperaturetowhichjamiscookedisthesameforallfruitsandalltypesofpreserving:221°Fatsealevel.Forevery1,000feetabovesealevel,subtract2°F.

Usingthefunnelandladle,filljarstowithin1/8inchoftherims.Removeanydripswithacleantowel.Topwiththelidsandsealwiththescrewbands.

Ifprocessingthejarsinaboiling-waterbath,placearackinalargepot;thesurfaceoftherackshouldbe3/4to1inchabovethebottomofthepot.Fillthepotwithwaterandbringtoaboil.(Ifusingapurchasedcanner,followthemanufacturer’sinstructions.)Usingajarlifter,lowerthefilledjarsintothewater,spacingthem1inchapartandmakingsurethatthejarsarecoveredby2inchesofwater.

Adjustyourprocessingtimesaccordingtoaltitude.Mostchartsareformulatedforaltitudesof1,000feetorless.Youmustincreasetheprocessingtimebyfiveminutesforaltitudesof1,000to3,000feet,tenminutesfor3,000to6,000feet,andfifteenminutesforaltitudesof6,000to8,000feet.

Removethejarsfromtheboiling-waterbathandsetaside.Whilethejarscool,thelidswillmakeapoppingsoundastheycontract.Thisindicatesthatyouhaveagoodvacuumseal.

Ifthejarshavenotbeenprocessedorhavenotsealedproperly,storeinthefridgeforupto6weeks.Jarsofjamthathavebeenproperlyvacuumsealedwillkeepinacool,darkplaceforatleastayear.Checktomakesurethatthevacuumsealisintactbeforeopeningforthefirsttime.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

Tothehandsthatinspiregoodwork:MywifeandpartnerElisabeth;kitchenmanagerandrighthandMelissa;leadbreadbakerNathan;multilinguistbreadbakerLori;ourcafemanagersSuzanne,Sierra,andTahlia;andeveryoneIworkwith.SupportdrawnfrommyTartinefamilyisimmeasurable.Warmestthanks

toyouall—andtoMomandDadalways.

ThankstoDavidWilsonforbeautifullyillustratingourplaceandstateofmind.

SincerethankstoKatherineCowles,forkeepingmyeffortspointedintherightdirectiontoenablethisproject.AndtoOlgaKatsnelsonandKateGoldstein-BreyerofPostcardCommunications.

ThankstotheeditorialteamatChronicleBooks:BillLeBlond,SarahBillingsley,andJudithDunhamalongwithPeterPerezandDavidHawk.AndspecialthankstoVanessaDina.Yourdedicatedworkismuch

appreciated.

AndthankstoEric,forbuildingthisbookfromstarttofinishwithme;andforcapturingsowelltherecordofaspecialtime.

—ChadRobertson

MythankstoChadforinvitingmetotheshapingtableandincludingmeonthisproject.

Myworkisdedicatedtothosewhoseexamplekeepsmepursuingmydreams,andwhoseaffection,goodadviceandunwaveringsupporthelpedmakethisonepossible.Jaz,Marko,Mom,andDad.

—EricWolfinger

IndexTheindexentriesbelowareastheyappearedintheprintversionofthebookandareincludedhereforyourreference.PleaseusethesearchfunctiononyoureReadertosearchfortermsofinterest.

A

Aioli

GreenAioliQuickAioli

Almonds

AlmondCreamBostockWhiteGazpacho

Anchovies

AnchoïadeBagnetVertCaesarDressingMarinatedAnchoviesTapenade

Apricots

KugelhopfArtichokes

RoastedArtichokeCroutonsTomatoPanzanella

AutolyseB

BabaswithProsecco-PoachedNectarinesBacon

BriocheLardon

Maple-GlazedBaconBagnetVertBaguettesBaker’sFoieBaker’spercentagesBánh-MìBasicCountryBread

bakingbenchrestforbulkfermentationforcoolingequipmentforfinalriseforingredientsforleavenformixingdoughforprocessforrestperiodforshapingstarterfortestbakersforvariationson

BayShrimpSandwichBeans

FreshFavaPanzanellaGarbanzoBreakfastSoupHummus

Beef

BurgerClarise’sMeatballSandwiches

Beignets

Berries

SummerPuddingBostockBourdon,RichardBread.Seealsoindividualrecipes

bakingbenchrestforbulkfermentationforcoolingequipmentforfinalriseforhistoryofingredientsforkneadingleavenformixingdoughforwithnaturalleavenvs.yeastrestperiodforshapingstarterforinwood-firedovens

BreadcrumbsBrioche

BriocheBunsBriocheLardonOliveBrioche

Bruschetta

EggplantandCharredPepperBruschettaLateSummerBruschettaSummerSquashandPeaBruschettaTomato,Melon,andChileBruschetta

Buns,BriocheBurgerButter,Cognac

C

CaesarDressingCalvel,RaymondCandiedPistachiosCaramelizedOnionsCarrots

LeTourinPickledVegetables

Cauliflower

PanadeCheese

BabaswithProsecco-PoachedNectarinesBurgerClarise’sMeatballSandwichesFrenchOnionSoupInvoltiniKaleCaesarMargheritaPizzaNettlePizzaPainauGruyèrePanadePanconTomatePotatoFocacciaRacletteSavoryBreadPuddingSummerSquashandPeaBruschettaTomatoesProvençalTomatoPanzanella

ChermoulaCherryTomatoJamChicken

Baker’sFoieBánh-MìChilledConsomméwithSoldiersRichChickenStock

Chiles

ChermoulaChileSaltHarissaTomato,Melon,andChileBruschetta

ChilledConsomméwithSoldiersChorizo

CherryTomatoJamClarise’sMeatballSandwichesCoconut

CoconutIceCreamTroubleAffogato

Coffee

TroubleAffogatoCognac

Baker’sFoieCognacButter

Colin,DanielConsommé,Chilled,withSoldiersCountryRyeBreadCrabSandwichCroissants

Croutons

RoastedArtichokeCroutonsCucumbers

QuickPicklesTomatoPanzanellaWhiteGazpacho

Currants

BabaswithProsecco-PoachedNectarinesCherryTomatoJamKugelhopf

E

Eggplant

EggplantandCharredPepperBruschettaEscalivadaInvoltini

Eggs

GarbanzoBreakfastSoupLeTourin

EnglishMuffinEquipmentEscalivada

F

FavaPanzanella,FreshFenduFennel

BayShrimpSandwichPorchetta

Figs

Anchoïade

EscalivadaFish.SeealsoAnchovies

GarbanzoBreakfastSoupNiçoisePanBagnatPickledSardinesSardinesandFreshGarbanzoHummusTunaConfit

FlaxandSunflowerBreadFlourFocaccia,PotatoFougasseFrenchOnionSoupFrenchToast,TartineBakedFreshFavaPanzanellaFriedPotatoesFruits.Seealsoindividualfruits

Liz’sJamG

Garbanzobeans

GarbanzoBreakfastSoupHummus

Garlic

GarlicFishSauceSopadeAjo

Gazpacho,WhiteGoldenRaisin,FennelSeed,andOrangeZestBreadGrapes

WhiteGazpachoGreenAioli

H

Ham

JambonBeurreTartinePanconTomateSavoryBreadPudding

Hamilton,GabrielleHarissaHazelnuts

BriocheLardonHerbSaladHummusHydrationpercentage

I

Icecream

CoconutIceCreamTroubleAffogato

InvoltiniJ

JambonBeurreTartineJams

CherryTomatoJamLiz’sJam

K

Kale

KaleCaesarLeTourinPanade

Krupman,JeffKugelhopf

L

LateSummerBruschettaLeaven

aromaofcharacteristicsofhistoryofmakingreadinessofreplenishingstarterand

LeavenedWafflesLemons

LemonGlazeLemonVinaigrette

LePort,PatrickLeTourinLiver

Baker’sFoieBánh-Mì

Liz’sJamM

Maplesyrup

Maple-GlazedBaconMaplePecans

MargheritaPizzaMarinatedAnchoviesMattos,IgnacioMeatballSandwiches,Clarise’sMelons

SummerSquashandPeaBruschettaTomato,Melon,andChileBruschetta

Mushrooms

SavoryBreadPudding

N

Nectarines,Prosecco-Poached,BabaswithNettles

NettleFritatineNettlePizza

NiçoisePanBagnatO

Olives

OliveBreadOliveBriocheTapenade

Onions

CaramelizedOnionsFrenchOnionSoupLeTourinPickledVegetables

Oranges

BostockOrangeSyrup

Oyamada,LoriP

PainauGruyèrePanadePanconTomatePanzanella

FreshFavaPanzanellaTomatoPanzanella

PeaandSummerSquashBruschettaPecans,MaplePepin,Jacques

Peppers.SeealsoChiles

EggplantandCharredPepperBruschettaEscalivadaHarissaNiçoisePanBagnatRouille

PestoSpreadPhan,MaryPickles

PickledSardinesPickledVegetablesQuickPickles

Pistachios

BabaswithProsecco-PoachedNectarinesCandiedPistachiosKugelhopf

Pizzas

MargheritaPizzaNettlePizza

PolentaBreadPoolishPorchettaPork

Bánh-MìCherryTomatoJamClarise’sMeatballSandwichesPorchetta

Potatoes

FriedPotatoes

PotatoFocacciaPrueitt,ElisabethPuddings

SavoryBreadPuddingSummerPudding

Q

QuickAioliQuickPickles

R

RacletteRadicchio

SavoryBreadPuddingRadishes

PickledVegetablesRaisins

GoldenRaisin,FennelSeed,andOrangeZestBreadRaisinandCorianderBread

RichChickenStockRoastedArtichokeCroutonsRoberts,MelissaRouilleRum

BabaswithProsecco-PoachedNectarinesRyeBread,Country

S

Saladdressings

CaesarDressingLemonVinaigretteSherryVinaigrette

Salads

EscalivadaFreshFavaPanzanellaHerbSaladKaleCaesarTomatoPanzanella

SaltSandwiches

Bánh-MìBayShrimpSandwichBurgerClarise’sMeatballSandwichesCrabSandwichJambonBeurreTartineNiçoisePanBagnat

Sardines

PickledSardinesSardinesandFreshGarbanzoHummus

Sauces

AioliAnchoïadeBagnetVertChermoulaGarlicFishSauceGreenAioliHarissaHummusQuickAioliRouilleTomatoSauce

SavoryBreadPuddingSchwertner,Amaryll

Scott,AlanSemolinaflour

GoldenRaisin,FennelSeed,andOrangeZestBreadSemolinaBread

SesameBreadSherryVinaigretteShrimpSandwich,BaySopadeAjoSoups

FrenchOnionSoupGarbanzoBreakfastSoupLeTourinSopadeAjoWhiteGazpacho

Spreads

AlmondCreamPestoSpreadTapenade

Squash

PanadeSummerSquashandPeaBruschetta

Starter

acidloadofleavenandmakingrefreshingroleofstoring

Steingarten,JeffreyStock,RichChicken

SummerPuddingSummerSquashandPeaBruschettaSunflowerandFlaxBreadSyrup,Orange

T

TapenadeTartineBakedFrenchToastTestbakersThorn,JohnTomatoes

CherryTomatoJamClarise’sMeatballSandwichesEscalivadaInvoltiniMargheritaPizzaNettleFritatinePanconTomateTomatoesProvençalTomato,Melon,andChileBruschettaTomatoPanzanellaTomatoSauceWhiteGazpacho

TorduTroubleAffogatoTuna

GarbanzoBreakfastSoupNiçoisePanBagnatTunaConfit

V

Vegetables.SeealsoindividualvegetablesPickledVegetables

Vinaigrettes.SeeSaladdressings

W

Waffles,LeavenedWalnuts

AnchoïadeWalnutBread

WaterWaters,AliceWeiner,SarahWhiteGazpachoWhole-wheatflour

FlaxandSunflowerBreadPainauGruyèreRaisinandCorianderBreadWhole-WheatBread

Wolfinger,EricY

Yanko,NateZ

Zucchini.SeeSquash

TableofEquivalentsTheexactequivalentsinthefollowingtableshavebeenroundedforconvenience.

LIQUID/DRYMEASUREMENTS

U.S. Metric

1/4teaspoon 1.25milliliters

1/2teaspoon 2.5milliliters

1teaspoon 5milliliters

1tablespoon(3teaspoons) 15milliliters

1fluidounce(2tablespoons) 30milliliters

1/4cup 60milliliters

1/3cup 80milliliters

1/2cup 120milliliters

1cup 240milliliters

1pint(2cups) 480milliliters

1quart(4cups,32ounces) 960milliliters

1gallon(4quarts) 3.84liters

1ounce(byweight) 28grams

1pound 448grams

2.2pounds 1kilogram

LENGTHS

U.S. Metric

1/8inch 3millimeters

1/4inch 6millimeters

1/2inch 12millimeters

1inch 2.5centimeters

OVENTEMPERATURE

Fahrenheit Celsius Gas

250 120 1/2

275 140 1

300 150 2

325 160 3

350 180 4

375 190 5

400 200 6

425 220 7

450 230 8

475 240 9

500 260 10

CHADROBERTSONlivesandworkswithhiswifeandpartner,Elisabeth,andtheirdaughter,Archer,alongwiththerestoftheTartinefamily,inSanFrancisco.

ERICWOLFINGERisaSanFrancisco-basedphotographer.Beforeworkingbehindthelenshespentsixyearsasacookandabaker.