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IntroductionA city for the 21st century

HistoryImportant dates and events

Routes and Walking Tours1. From the Anilla Olímpic2. The Heart of the Eixam3. A Tour through the Squ4 A Stroll down La Ramb



Barcelona, the capital of Catalonia, is not only

one of Spain's most prosperous cities; it is also

one of Europe's prime tourist destinations. The

city has a certain indescribable something: anallure that attracts thousands of tourists every

year, a character that inspires pride in its citi-

zens. Barcelona's climate, way of life and cul-

tural heritage make it a wonderful place to visit

and live. The 1992 Olympic Games marked a

turning point in the city's history, both in terms

of urban development and international recog-

nition. However, the secret of its success does-

n't lie in the Olympic Games alone. After all,

that important event took place thirteen years

ago, and the city is still growing and develo-

ping on many different levels. Catalonia as a

whole and Barcelona in particular take pride in

having a unique identity. This is manifested in

many ways but most obviously in the Catalan

language, which differentiates the region and

rest of Spain. And Barcelona never hesitated to

take advantage of this privilege and weave the

incoming influences into its cultural fabric.

The modernist movement and the world-

renowned work of architect Antoni Gaudí also

contributed to the city's international reputa-

tion. Architecture, however, isn't the only art to

flourish in Barcelona. The city has always had

a rich cultural, artistic and intellectual life,

which found expression in music, theatre and

literature. Furthermore, this wealth of creative

out-put is not a thing of the past. Barcelona is

still a place of innovation and new, artistic ten-

dencies. Nowadays, Barcelona is home to cut-

ting-edge design, hip fashion and avant-garde

architecture, which all help to keep the world

fixated on this Mediterranean city. Barcelona

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The Founding of Barcelona

Barcelona is an open, cosmopolitan and tole-

rant city, character traits owed to more than

4,000 years of history. Although officially

Barcelona was founded by the Romans, evi-

dence exists of settlements in this area as early

as Neolithic times.

Towards the end of the 1st century B.C., the

Romans established a city called Barcino

around what was then the Táber Mountain.

Nowadays, the slight incline of this hill can still

be noticed when heading up to the Plaça Sant

Jaume, the square that now covers what was

once the Táber. What is interesting is that the

Romans also used this exact spot as their poli-

tical and administrative centre - just like

Barcelona does now. The Plaça Sant Jaume is

where both the Barcelona City Hall and the seatof the Generalitat de Catalunya are located.

The Romans encircled their city with imposing

city walls, which were maintained and even

expanded for centuries thereafter. This severely

limited the growth of the city and many areas

that are now integrated neighbourhoods Gràcia

However, this period was not to last very long.

The Moorish army invaded the city, which

brought about two, decisive consequences for

the city. On the one hand, Barcelona was

almost completely destroyed and, on the other,

these events led to their independence from

Frankish rule. The then-governing count,Borrell II, considered that Barcelona had been

betrayed and that the ties of vassalage had been

broken by the Franks' decision to not come to

the city's aid. Borrell II changed the political

face of Barcelona by naming himself Marquis

and Duke of Iberia in God's name.

This was the dawn of an era that, although

complicated, brought about a quick recovery

for the city. At the beginning of the 11th cen-tury, Barcelona invaded Córdoba, which ended

with an important victory for the former as well

as significant wealth an d economic gain.

This "compensation" allowed the city to deve-

lop at a rapid rate. In addition to this, the other

Catalan counties began to unite with

Barcelona as their capital, which yielded an

important expansion, both in terms of territory

and influence.

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berment of its territories. It was during this era

that the northern section of Catalonia came

under French rule. The Catalan national

anthem still recalls this war by bearing its

name. Unfortunately, it wasn't going to be the

only difficult blow Catalonia would suffer

during this time.

Between 1705 and 1714, Barcelona fought the

War of Succession, which ended with the

French and Castilian troops conquering the

city. The ensuing repression was severe. Not

only did Barcelona lose all autonomy, but

Castile also claimed much of its territory, such

as Sicily, Sardinia, Naples and Mallorca.

Barcelona became subject to Castilian law, the

only one recognised throughout the land, and

the speaking of Catalan was strictly forbidden,

not only in public but in private settings as

well.

If you find yourself near the Santa Maria del

Mar church in the Born neighbourhood, you

will probably notice an enormous, copper-

coloured torch: this is the Fosar de les

Moreres. The flame burning at the very top

commemorates all the Catalans who lost their

life during the War of Succession. This isn't the

only historical curiosity in the Born. In

February 2002, the project to restructure the

old Born Market was set into motion. The

market was to be reinvented as a space to house

the Barcelona Provincial Library, but no one

was quite prepared for what they were to find

beneath the market. The ground had been guar-

ding a fascinating secret for centuries - the

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Following this period wrought with conflict,

Barcelona began a gradual recovery. The city

remained militarised for a long time to come;

the occupying forces even constructed an enor-

mous fortress to keep invaders at bay (today the

remnants of this fortress form part of the

Ciutadela Park). The areas now known as the

Raval and La Rambla had been rather insignifi-cant until this point in time - the former had

been little more than agricultural land and the

latter an unimportant piece of road. During this

period they were developed, and the city was

seemingly getting back on its feet again.

However, despite the city's growth, the pro-

gress was only skin-deep; beneath it an incen-

diary mix of social tensions was gaining

momentum.

The 19th Century: The Arrival of New

Movements

The first half of the 19th century was marked

by uprisings and revolts. In 1814, amidst

bombings, riots, convent fires and general con-

flict, the city's workers organised the first

general strike the city had ever known. The

tension that characterised this time as well as

the obvious clamouring for change brought

about a series of important reforms.

In 1848 Barcelona inaugurated its first railway

route, and the city's commitment to the indus-

trial age earned it the nickname "little

Manchester". In 1854, the city walls finally

came down, an event that allowed a sudden,

unprecedented surge in urban development



reign, the only apparent taboo being the

straight line. Colourful ceramics, glasswork,

wrought-iron and an entire imaginary animal

kingdom made their way into the city's archi-

tecture. The unquestionable frontrunner of this

style was without a doubt Antoni Gaudí who is

immortalised by the timeless, universal crea-

tions he set into the city: the Sagrada Familia,buildings like Casa Milà (also known as La

Pedrera) and Casa Batlló and the Park Güell.

Contemporary Barcelona

The 20th century also brought dark moments to

the city. In 1906 Barcelona lived through its

infamous Tragic Week , marked by numerous

altercations, general upheaval and the burning

of convents. The Mancomunitat de

Catalunya was set up in 1914, a product of the

rise in Catalan, nationalist tendencies that were

a direct response to the repressive, military

rule. However, a few years later, General

Primo de Rivera organised a coup which

brought him to power. He ruled the city as a

dictator with an iron fist. However, despite the

repressive conditions rampant in the city,

Barcelona managed to overcome many obsta-cles to organise, amidst all of this conflict, the

1929 International Fair .

The Republican era that began in 1931 reawa-

kened the city's hope and spirit, but more diffi-

cult times were on the horizon. The Spanish

Civil War broke out in 1936, a war during

which Barcelona would live through some of

its darkest and most difficult moments.

Thousands of people fled into exile while

relentless bombardments devastated the city.

When the civil war came to an end in 1939 and

the Franco Dictatorship rose to power,

Barcelona lost many of its previous freedoms,

including the loss of its autonomy, which it had

managed to regain in the past. The city also

watched as the Catalan language was yet againdeclared illegal.

The post-war period unfolded in this environ-

ment until the 1960s. That decade witnessed

the beginnings of an economic and industrial

expansion, which brought another wave of

immigration from other Spanish regions to the

city. The rise in the population brought with it

an immense demand for more housing and

urban infrastructure - two areas in which the

city grew dramatically, often without defined

criteria, resulting in the birth of sleeper cities in

the outskirts.

Democracy came to Spain in 1975 after the

death of the dictator Francisco Franco.

Barcelona reinstated the Generalitat as its auto-

nomous government and was once again recog-

nised as the capital of an autonomousCatalonia. Along with its newly regained free-

doms, Barcelona also continued to grow on an

industrial as well as cultural level.

In 1981 came another turning point for the city

- the International Olympics Committee

announced that Barcelona would host the 1992

Olympic Games. The selection as Olympic

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THEATRE: A NEW CONTEMPORARYTWIST

Theatre has had a long-lasting and reputable

tradition in Barcelona. Several theatrical com-

panies renowned throughout Spain and the rest

of the world have their roots in Barcelona.

Many of these groups share a common careerpath: starting small, often as a hobby, and per-

forming locally in Catalan on the many, alter-

native stages located throughout the city. The

majority of groups don't break out of this

mould, but those that do have contributed enor-

mously to new theatrical movements which

have garnered an important following and a

solid reputation worldwide.

Barcelona has always managed to maintain itstraditions and simultaneously give birth to new

and important voices in the avant-garde. One of

these voices is definitely the internationally

renowned group La Fura dels Baus. They

have created an unusual theatrical style unlike

any other, which brings together live perfor-

mance, theatrical techniques, visual art and

music. The result is a completely innovative

and new type of performance - it might not be

everyone's cup of tea, but its originality and

importance cannot be overstated.

stage their pieces. The group creates their own

stage by placing traditionally non-theatrical

spaces into a different context. They "invaded"

the Olympic Stadium with an enormous boat

during the 1992 Olympic Games' inaugural

celebration. In another performance they gathe-

red 20,000 people in Plaça Catalunya for a

spectacular farewell to the 20th century,accompanied by a character of their creation,

the Millennium Man.

La Fura were long considered rather shocking

(and still are by some audience members) for

dealing with taboo subjects such as sexuality,

deviant behaviour and mental illness. Whether

their work is to your liking or not, one thing is

unquestionably true: they have created their

own style and a completely new type of perfor-mance. They have always been daring, recently

experimenting with digital media as an element

in their shows and making forays into opera

and film. Their shows always open with much

hype and polemic, which generally assures a

hit at the box-office. More than a million peo-

ple have attended their shows over the years,

which have received every kind of review -

from rave to condemnation. However, reviews

seem to have little bearing on La Fura dels

Baus' drawing power - tickets to their shows

usually sell out within a few days of going on

sale.

Somewhat less "aggressive" but equally note-

worthy is the group Els Comediants. The

group was born more than three decades ago

during a time when intellectual content domi-

nated official theatres. The members of ElsComediants were inspired by other European

groups active at that time, but they wove a lot

of traditional, local elements into their work.

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which travelling comedians went from village

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day that stirred other emotions, the feeling that

not every good writer has to be a prophet in

their country. Vázquez Montalbán was born in

Barcelona's Raval district in 1939, right after

the end of the Spanish Civil War. Both during

his lifetime and after his death, the writer was

recognised and celebrated for his literary achie-

vements. He wrote about many things, and hewrote a lot about Barcelona. Few authors can

come close to the vivid portraits with which he

immortalised the Barcelona of his youth. And

yet, his literature isn't just for his fellow

Barcelona citizens, his literature is grander than

that, more far-reaching, and can appeal to

anyone who loves a great story, no matter

where they are from.

Manuel Vázquez Montalbán was an out-spoken

leftist, a political conviction that cost him a

year and a half in a Lleida prison. He began

writing poems in prison as well as his first

book: Informe sobre la Información (A Report

on Information), a manual on proper conduct in

journalism. He wrote prolifically, sometimes

three or four books in one year, and about

many, different subjects: politics, gastronomy,

current events and the Barça team he so fer-

vently supported.

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takes you into the world of the intrepid detecti-

ve and allows you to discover the many corners

of the city immortalised by the novels.

Another great Catalan, literary voice died in

2003: Terenci Moix. Moix was also born in the

Raval, specifically in the Granja Gavà, now a

café and restaurant on Carrer Joaquín Costa, in

1942. He became a celebrated icon to all provo-cateurs, mythomaniacs and members of the

emerging gay scene. Being gay in post-war

Spain wasn't accepted or even openly admitted

and going against this cultural bigotry took

more than a little courage. Terenci Moix never

made excuses for his lifestyle and always

defended his right to freedom. He was an eter-

nal Peter Pan figure, charming, brazen and

unpredictable, who charmed his way into every

single literary circle, from the most refined tothe most populist. He was one of the most visi-

ble and outspoken members of the gauche divi-

ne, the intellectual movement that emerged in

Catalonia during the late 1960s and included

many artists, writers, architects and musicians.

The group defended their ideas in a time when

the central government still oppressed and cen-

sored much of the social sphere. But more than

freedom-fighter, intellectual and icon of the

gay movement, Terenci Moix was a writer. And

a great one.

Moix was a passionate traveller and had a spe-

cial love affair with Egypt, a country that he

visited a total of 22 times and which inspired

some of his best novels In his novel El Día que



public events, regardless whether they were

organised by important institutions or neigh-

bourhood organisations. Many city streets bear

his name, and a spontaneous, popular demand

pushed the Institute of Catalan Letters to nomi-

nate Miquel Martí i Pol as a candidate for the

Nobel Prize in 1999.

MUSIC: FROM THE RUMBA TO THECANÇÓ CATALANA

Ask any tourist or even many who live in

Barcelona where the rumba comes from, and

they will probably reply: "from Andalusia, of

course". Well, no. The rumba doesn't come

from the hot, southern lands of Andalusia. In

fact, the cheerful, flamenco sound that tells sto-

ries of the Roma way of life was born right here

in Barcelona, specifically on the Carrer de la

Cera in the Raval. Legend has it that the origi-

nal creators of the Rumba were El Orelles, who

sang at neighbourhood parties, and El Toqui,

who "invented" a guitar-playing style that com-

bined melody and percussion.

At least this is the most authentic and popular

version of the tale. The person who brought therumba to the stage and consequently earned it

its fame was Antonio González, El Pescaílla.

The brilliant Roma performer, who later

married Lola Flores, another mythical, flamen-

co star, took Frank Sinatra songs and gave them

a twist. He accompanied his impressive vocal

rendition with rhythmic clapping, and his dan-

cing style was marked by a "rumbero" touch.

However, the rumba was immortalised by

Peret, who gave it the sound we recognisetoday and earned it international recognition

and fame.

Catalan singer-songwriters also have a loyal

following in Barcelona, the most famous of

which are Joan Manuel Serrat and Lluís Llach.

Ask around - almost any local can sing a few

bars of Serrat's famous song "Mediterráneo"

which, despite being sung in Castilian, has

become somewhat of an unofficial anthem.

DESIGNERS: BREAKING THE MOULD

Barcelona is a small Mecca for design lovers

who flock here year after year. The city has a

long and exciting history in this field and has

The ground-breaking star of Barcelona's fas-

hion world is without a doubt Custo Dalmau.

His brand Custo Barcelona produces world-

famous, printed t-shirts (given an additional

boost by having Julia Roberts as a fan), which

have become one of the most widely copied

fashion items in recent history. And when your

work becomes the subject of mimicry youknow it can only be due to two reasons: either

you are exceptionally gifted or the others lack

original imagination. Whatever the reason may

be, the fact is that Custo Barcelona remains one

of the most successful and immediately recog-

nisable brands.

His dissenters claim that he has gained an

undeserved fame merely for printing some

amusing images on a bunch of t-shirts.

However, this is precisely the secret of his suc-

cess. The millions of Custo fans adore the fact

that a simple t-shirt can give their outfit a

sporty look or an elegant twist. And this loyal

following has given Custo free reign over his

brand, charging exclusive designer prices for

his creations and selling them at the city's high-

end stores, including his own on Carrer Ferran,

close to Plaça Sant Jaume.

Another designer who is considered an icon of

cool at the moment is Jordi Labanda, His

illustrations, usually depicting ultra-chic men

and women, have been displayed on just about

every product on the market including folders,

notebooks, wedding invitations, bags, t-shirts,

water bottles, etc. As with Custo, opinions split

into two camps when it comes to Labanda.

Many people think he is an over-hyped illustra-tor. Others find his work to be pleasing and

inoffensive - the kind of imagery that attracts

most people and can be used to promote just

about anything.

As far as design stores are concerned, the city

is full of them. However, the top-of-the-line,

high temple of design is without question the

illustrious Vinçon. Furniture, accessories and

an infinite array of items are perfectly arranged

throughout the three floors that make up the

store, located on Passeig de Gràcia. An added

touch of class is provided by the fact that the

space was once home to modernist painter

Ramon Casas. Everything sold at Vinçon has

passed a rigorous selection process So if you

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Modernism wasn't just an artistic movement; it

was also a way of thinking, a social approach

and a political attitude. It spread into all facets

of city life and therefore exercised an enormousinfluence on the second half of the 19th century

and the first years of the 20th century. At that

time, Barcelona was already a city open to new

ideas and the cultural movements taking place

throughout Europe. In carving its European

identity, Barcelona was also attempting to dif-

ferentiate itself from the rest of Spain, which

had stripped the region of most of its national

and institutional rights after the war in 1714.

Modernism was a fruit of this time, a period

marked by intellectual, artistic and social uphe-

aval, and the innovative and radically new

movement inspired a generation of groundbre-

aking artists. This new movement found

expression in all artistic areas, including sculp-

his time. One of his most acclaimed buildings,

the Casa Milà, was the subject of much criti-

cism and mockery. Its massive stone facade

earned it the nickname La Pedrera (piedrameans stone in Spanish). Gaudí was often

ahead of his time, and the only element banned

from his work was the straight line. Instead, he

opted for curved lines, vibrant colours, mythi-

cal creatures and an unbridled imagination that

touched every corner of his work.

Despite his radical architectural style, Gaudí

could always rely on the ecclesiastical sector,

which provided him with significant commis-sions like the Sagrada Familia, and the city's

bourgeoisie, which always supported his

whimsical and fantastical architecture. The

Casa Batlló, the Casa Calvet and the Casa Milà

are examples of residences that Gaudí designed

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He received first prize in the architectural com-petition organised by the city in 1906 for the

Casa Lleó Morera, located on Passeig de

Gràcia's Manzana de la Discordia. This city

block is famous for the many modernist land-

marks located along its length. However, his

crowning achievements are without a doubt the

Palau de la Música Catalana and the Hospital

de Sant Pau. The latter is considered one of the

city's most impressive modernist complexes,

and its detailed design and immense dimen-

sions explain why it took the architect thirty

years to complete the project. During those

thirty years, Doménech i Montaner collabora-

ted with sculptors like Eusebi Arnau and Pau

Gargallo and painters like Francesc Labarta to

achieve the hospital's intricate, ornate design.

Josep Puig i Cad afalch

Considered the last representative of moder-

nism and the first exponent of noucentismo, the

artistic movement that followed the former,

Puig i Cadafalch was known for more than his

architectural innovation. He played an equally

important role in Catalan politics during that

time.

His career can be divided into three different

phases. In the first phase, he was inspired by

Nordic styles, which is reflected in buildings

such as the Casa Amatller. This enormous resi-

dence, located on Passeig de Gràcia, recalls the

typical, 18th century houses that lined the

canals in Amsterdam. The second phase resul-

ted in many of the residences the architect built

for members of the bourgeoisie. Finally, the

third phase reached its pinnacle with the 1929

International Exposition for which Puig i

Cadafalch served as the head architect.

The Casa de les Punxes, located in the

Eixample, is one of the city's most spectacular

buildings, built in a style that fuses Nordic

influences with motifs from medieval castles.

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city centre down to the sea. The promenade

became a popular spot with locals almost

immediately. In the 19th century many wealthy

families decided that the area had become suf-

ficiently posh, and they began to build their

houses and palaces along the length of the pro-

menade.

The Rambla's popularity grew over time, andnowadays both locals and foreigners alike con-

sider it to be the city's most famous street. The

buildings that line the promenade are equally

well-known, such as, for example, the Gran

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This tree-lined promenade, bustling with tou-

rists as well as locals, flanked by both old shops

and modern businesses, stage to open air art

and unique buildings, tells the story of day to

day life in a modern city. And, of course, there

is no shortage of pickpockets either, much like

on any other important, busy avenue in any

other large, urban city. Therefore, be alert as

you stroll along the promenade and enjoy itsmany facets - facets that have changed signifi-

cantly over the centuries.

In comparison to much of the city centre, the

Rambla is actually quite modern. It is difficult

to imagine that until the 18th century the

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Over the course of thousands of years, markets

have been a centrepiece of the Mediterranean

way of life. In a region where commerce was

the predominant economic activity, life took

place outside, and its social centre was always

the marketplace. Barcelona was no exception

to this, and even nowadays, locals still embra-

ce the tradition of shopping at the market. The

city is home to more than forty markets, some

of which are located inside buildings of great

cultural and architectural value. Each one of

these places is a piece of the city's collective

history.

Mercat de la Boqueria

This market must have something special about

it since it is amongst the most frequently pho-tographed places in the city. Although it isn't

considered an official monument, it is treated

as such. Avisit to this magnificent market is an

absolute must, both for its location right on the

Rambla (see Route 4) as well as for the vibrant

atmosphere inside.

on one little impulsive purchase or another. But

that isn't all. The Boqueria isn't just a blend of

different cultures brought together under one

roof. It is also one of the city's most interesting

pieces of architecture. Imagine shopping within

an enormous and yet infinitely delicate iron

structure, held up by Ionic columns and illumi-

nated by light streaming in through giant panes

of glass in the ceiling. Locals love to show off

this charming market, where many of the ven-

dors have grown into almost legendary charac-

ters. Ask any of the vendors to tell you about

Moños ... it is definitely an experience worth

having!

Mercat del Born

This is another one of Barcelona's great mar-kets, located at the end of the Passeig del Born,

in one of the city's currently hippest and most

fashionable areas. This market, one of the best

examples of Barcelona's famed iron architectu-

re, was built by Joseph Fontserè i Mestre in

1876. There is a rather peculiar and fascinating

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6 Mercat del Born7 Mural Joan Salvat Papasseit (Borne)

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10 www..takeoffguides.com

11 Mercat del Ninot



Of all the neighbourhoods in Barcelona, Gracià

definitely has the most squares, and each one

has a story to tell. The Plaça del Diamant is

famous because it gave its name to one of the

most internationally acclaimed novels in

Catalonia's literary history. Plaça del Sol is the

site of the neighbourhood's yearly festival as

well as the epicentre of the area's nightlife.

Plaça Rius i Taulet is home to the district's city

hall and a very symbolic clock tower. When the

weather turns warm and sunny, people flock to

the squares at all hours of the day ... includinglate at night, much to the chagrin of the people

who live alongside the squares. However,

Gracià simply wouldn't be the same without

this popular atmosphere, a trait that has always

characterised this area.

h G hi Q l i i

Somewhat further away but well worth the visit

is the Plaça de la Sagrada Familia, a unique

square in a class all of its own. It is usually full

of people no matter the time of day. When deci-

ding on a time to visit the square, sunset is defi-

nitely the best choice. This is when the lights

on the square flicker to life and the cathedral's

mirror image is reflected in the lake below.

Certainly there are larger squares of perhaps

greater urban importance within the city (such

as Plaça Espanya, Plaça Catalunya, PlaçaFrancesc Macià ...). All of these places have

played an important role in the city's history,

but due to their strategic locations, they have

somehow lost much of their charm. Nowadays,

they seem to recall the stress associated with

our busy, daily routines rather than conjuring

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6 Pl. Francesc Macià7 Pl. Rovira

8 www..takeoffguides.com

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11 Tibidabo



legend of Sant Jordi tells the story of a brave

knight who saved a village's maidens from a

fearsome dragon that lived off their blood.

When the dragon died a rose bush is said to

have blossomed in its place. Sant Jordi plucked

the loveliest of the roses and gave it to the villa-

ge's princess.

The legend has given birth to the Sant Jordi

holiday, during which custom dictates that mengive women a rose, and women give men a

book. The city comes alive, and streets like the

Passeig de Gracià and the Ramblas fill up with

stalls selling roses and books. It all adds up to a

truly spectacular and lively day that is unlike

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Sant Medir

This is a festival particular to the Gracià neigh-

bourhood, which takes place during the first

weekend in March. Legend has it that Saint

Medir was a simple, Christian peasant living in

the outskirts of Barcelona around 303 A.D. He

owed his fame to a highly unusual variety of

beans, which simply sprung up from the

ground in his garden immediately after being

planted. One day, as Medir was harvesting hismagical crop, he was taken prisoner and tortu-

red by the Romans. He came to be seen as a

martyr, and the grounds where his house had

stood were turned into a hermitage in his name.

Nowadays, the legend is remembered with a

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"fiestas mayores". These are essentially city or

neighbourhood festivals, days set aside during

which people cast off daily routines and head

out onto the streets to celebrate and enjoy

themselves.

The most famous "fiesta mayor" within

Barcelona is doubtlessly celebrated in theGracià neighbourhood. Gracià gives the party

an extra special touch, something more than the

typical concerts, orchestras, children's games,

traditional culinary treats, etc. For many centu-

ries, Gracià has celebrated another, very unique

tradition. Almost all of the streets enter a con-

test to see which has the best decorations

during the week-long festivities. The neigh-

bours of each street take all year to come up

with a theme and design details, usually evencreating them by hand. Finally, they all get

together and decorate their street with great

imaginative flair. The neighbourhood undergo-

es a fantastical transformation during this week

and takes on an appearance that truly celebrates

originality and creativity. Although the compe-

titive edge is in high gear, participating is still

what counts the most.

Fiestas de la Mercè

September 24th is the day dedicated to the

Virgin of the Mercé, the city's patron saint since

1687 (before that it was Santa Eulàlia).

However, as this is the city's most important

holiday, it deserves more than one day of festi-

vities. Therefore, the entire week is packed

with different events and concerts, and the city

is literally buzzing with excitement and life.

One of the most traditional things to do is to

watch the "castellers", who usually gather on

the Plaça Sant Jaume. The "castellers" are one

of Catalonia's most deeply-rooted traditions; it

consists of building human towers: a delicate,

acrobatic structure consisting of several people.

The smallest person in the group, known as the

"anxeneta", has to use the already positioned

bodies of the other members to climb to the

very top and crown the tower.

Another popular tradition is the "correfoc".

Groups of "devils", also known as "colles", run

through the streets shooting balls of fire and

gigantic sparklers into the air ... as well as

water to ensure that no serious injuries or

events, other exhibitions and cultural festivals

such as BAM, which stages a number of diffe-

rent concerts, take place throughout the week.

Another successful, parallel event is the

Barcelona Arts Carrer, a festival that turns the

city into a stage and involves everyone passing

by in the performances taking place.

The closing day of the Mercè festival is cele-brated with the by now famous "Pyromusical",

a spectacular display of fireworks coordinated

to the beat of a variety of musical styles.

Normally, the show takes place over the Magic

Fountains at the foot of Montjuic. Last year,

however, as part of the Forum of Cultures pro-

gramme, the magnificent show enjoyed a spe-

cial edition over the sea.



decided to put the area to good use and createda public park, which also served as the centre

for the World Fair that Barcelona was hosting

that same year. This era isn't just a long faded

memory; buildings dating back to that time still

stand within the park's perimeter. Some of the

buildings have been preserved and many now

serve other functions than they were originally

intended for. For example, the Governor's

Palace is now a secondary school and the old

arsenal now houses the Catalan Parliament.Right next door is the Museum of Modern Art,

and visitors can also stop in at the old chapel.

However, the museum isn't the only place to

find art in the park; in fact, art pieces are scat-

tered throughout the area. Outside the

Parliament, in what were once the old parade

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Barcelona has always placed high value onbalancing its urban areas with green spaces.

Although the city experienced growth spurts

during which it expanded quite significantly,

the growth always went hand in hand with the

preservation or creation of parks and gardens.

Every neighbourhood has areas set aside for

enjoying some peace and quiet amidst the

green. The parks and gardens come in many

shapes and sizes, some large and full of leisure

activities, others marked by history and somethat are secret hideaways, tucked into the cen-

tre of city blocks. In addition to all the parks

and gardens within the city, Barcelona is also

surrounded by vast expanses of natural terrain

that are the perfect getaway for escaping the

city's traffic and pollution. The options are so

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at the chance to climb onto one of the tusks.

The park is also home to two other classic buil-

dings, which were originally conceived as gre-

enhouses. The former, known as the Umbracle,

still serves as a nursery for tropical plants, but

the latter, known as the Hivernacle, has been

turned into a pleasant café and restaurant,

which is open every day. This building is a

wonderful example of an architectural style

which used glass and iron as its primary mate-rials and gained immense popularity in Europe

following the construction of the Eiffel Tower.

Approximately half of the park grounds are

taken up by the Barcelona Zoo. The entrance is

decorated with a sculpture depicting deer lea-

ping into the air, a piece intended as homage to

Walt Disney. Inside the zoo, you can see one of

the most popular figures in the city - "La Dama

del Paraigües" (The Lady with the Umbrella), a

sculpture by the artist Joan Roig i Solé. For

many years, the zoo was most famous for being

home to Snowflake, the world's only albino

gorilla and the zoo's friendliest denizen.

Snowflake was one of a kind; since his death,

there are no other gorillas left in the world that

bear his unique characteristics. Many people

mourned his death and still miss his presence

when visiting the zoo.

Passeig Picasso, Passeig Pujades and Carrer

Wellington

Open from 10am until sunset.

Underground: Arc de Triomf (L1)

Parc del Castell de l'Oreneta

your walk through the park. This option allows

you to see a greater variety of plants, many of

which are marked with signs identifying their

species. Once you are familiar with the plants,

it isn't difficult to recognise them, allowing you

to learn and discover the Collserola vegetation

while enjoying your time outside.

The path is dotted with many observation

points from which you can look down onto the

city as well as relaxing spots at which to take a

break, play a round of ping-pong or let the chil-

dren clamber around the playgrounds. Another

attraction that is very popular with children is

the steam train, which offers an alternate way

of exploring the park. The miniature train, an

exact replica of its old-fashioned relatives, still

has a coal-burning engine. The train covers a 1km long trajectory during which it crosses over

bridges and goes through tunnels. The train

only operates at the weekend, between 11am

and 2pm, when the weather conditions are

good.

Another activity especially designed for chil-

dren is the Pony Club, where the little ones can

sign up for a short riding lesson. After their

initiation, they can head out for a 45 minute

ride through the park under the watchful eye of

an expert guide. The Pony Club has the same

hours as the steam train and is only open on

Saturday and Sunday mornings. The park also

has ample green areas set up for picnics, which

makes the Parc del Castell de l'Oreneta a per-

fect destination for a day outdoors with the

entire family.

The park has entrances on the Can Caralleu

road, the Biada passage and next to one of the

Ronda de Dalt off-ramps.

Tel. 934 132 424

Parc del Laberint d'Horta

The gardens at the Parc del Laberint are the

oldest in the city. They were designed in the

18th century when the aristocrat Joan Antoni

Devalls commissioned them for his 50 hectareprivate estate. The gardens take up approxima-

tely 9 hectares and were designed in a neoclas-

sic style.

The gardens were opened to the public in 1971.

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chapter on Routes, the one describing the

Anella Olímpica-Montjuic route will give you

plenty of detailed information about everything

that you can do in this park. To give you a brief

idea of the main points of interest, we will only

mention a few, key places: the Grec Theatre,

the Palau Sant Jordi, the Poble Espanyol and

the Olympic Stadium.

The Montjuïc Park also includes the Barcelona

Botanical Garden, where you can find species

from places as far away as Eastern Asia, China

and Japan but that feel at home in the

Mediterranean climate. Many of the plants

grow outside, whereas others are kept inside

the many greenhouses scattered throughout the

garden.

The mountain also has gardens that take youback in time to the hanging gardens of

Babylon. These gardens grow over terraces and

hang across balconies that are connected by a

series of paths. Amidst the green, you come

across waterfalls, stairways, fountains and

sculptures until you reach the grand finale - the

Grec Teatre (Catalan for Greek Theatre). The

theatre, which mimics the amphitheatre popu-

lar in ancient Greece, was built in 1920 based

on a design by Ramon Raventós. Nowadays,

the theatre hosts many concerts and takes the

spotlight during its namesake festival, which

takes place in the summer.

Parc de Joan Miró or L'Escorxador

This is one of the city's most popular parks,

located amidst urban surroundings, very close

to Plaça Espanya. It takes up an area that used

to serve as the city's main slaughterhouse,

which is where it gets its second name (escor-

xador means slaughterhouse in Catalan).

Obviously, its current activities are far more

pleasant than its past might suggest, and the

park hosts many local events. The best way to

recognise the park is by the famous Miró sta-

tue, Dona i Ocell (Woman and Bird), that gra-

ces one of its corners. The statue is 22 metres

tall and can be seen from quite a distance,which has given it a rather symbolic character

within the city. The park isn't just your typical,

green space. Some of the area is indeed green,

but another section, located near the local

library, is paved and therefore very popular

amongst young skaters and rollerbladers. The

park is an excellent example of how an old

facility was re-thought and restructured to pro-

vide the city with more outdoor areas.

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Montjuic Mountain is much more than just a

mountain, more than just a great spot from

which to admire panoramic views onto the city

and the Mediterranean Sea. The mountain tells

many stories from the past. Several importanthistorical events took place here that changed

the fate of the city and influenced the course of

its development. Strolling around Montjuic is

like taking a journey through the area's history

and culture. However, it isn't just the past that is

relived up here; the future is equally present,

manifested in many structures that have their

eye set on what is yet to come.

A good place from which to start an exploration

of the mountain is the Anella Olímpica. This is

the area containing the vast majority of the ins-

tallations built for the 1992 Olympic Games.

One of these structures is the Palau Sant Jordi,

which was inaugurated in 1990 at the beginning

purpose space has been used for a variety of

other sporting events, such as a number of

motocross championships. The driving force

behind each event at the Palau is to take advan-

tage of the space's incredible dimensions, whichinclude seating for up to 17,000 spectators in

the stands.

Many people claim that the Palau's exterior

reminds them of a flying saucer, and it is true

that there is something truly spectacular and out

of this world about architect Arata Isozaki's

work. When seen from above, you can notice

that the roof consists of an enormous, metal net

interspersed with many, glazed, ceramic tiles.The resulting design is absolutely original and

surprising, created with computer graphics by

the Japanese designer Mamoru Kawaguchi.

The Olympic Stadium is located right next to

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by Valencian architect Santiago Calatrava who sculptuartist's development and an expression of his



by Valencian architect Santiago Calatrava, who

is considered one of the most talented and inno-

vative architects working today. Calatrava has

worked on numerous projects of international

renown such as several installations for the

recent Olympic Games in Athens, the restructu-

ring of the Oriente Station in Lisbon and the

City of Arts and Sciences in Valencia.

The tower served as the communication centre

during the Olympic Games and quickly turned

into one of the city's landmarks. Not only is it a

remarkable architectural achievement, but it

also forever changed the Montjuic Mountain's

skyline. Its spectacular design puts it on par

with the Palau de Sant Jordi and taken together

these two buildings are harbingers of what can

be expected of Barcelona in the future. The

tower isn't the only imprint Calatrava has left on

the Catalan capital - he is also responsible forthe very original bridge that crosses the Bac de

Roda Street in the Sant Martí district.

As you leave the Olympic area and head uphill,

you will eventually reach the Montjuic Castle.

Nowadays, the castle is mostly recognised for

its cultural character, containing a variety of

interesting museums, such as one dedicated to

arms and weaponry and another to the art of

comics and illustration. However, the castle'shistory is far less benevolent than it might seem

at first glance. Catalans view the place with

mixed emotions. During the Franco

Dictatorship, the castle saw the execution of

many important personalities in the Catalan

resistance such as Lluís Companys who as

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whimsical, creative persona. In addition to the

permanent collection, the foundation also orga-

nises a variety of fascinating and innovative

temporary exhibitions. Several Miró sculptures

have also been placed in an outdoor space such

as, for example, the sculpture entitled Bon dia,

Barcelona (Good morning, Barcelona), one of the artist's most eye-catching pieces.

Joan Miró was drawn to a diverse array of mate-

rials, forms and colours throughout his life. This

love of variety led him to experiment with

many, different artistic mediums: painting,

sculpture, graphics, ceramics, theatre and texti-

les. If you want to gain insight into the many

layers that made up this artist's genius, make

sure to visit all of the foundation's halls. Certain

halls are dedicated to a specific theme, such as

the Sala Tapiz, which houses sculptural piecesand the Sala Joan Prats, which is entirely focu-

sed on Miró's work from the sixties and seven-

ties. The Sala Pilar Juncosa, named after the

artist's wife, and the so-called Sala K are two

other important spaces in the building. The

terrace is an excellent observation deck from

which to look out over the city. Some of Miró's

most interesting sculptural pieces, such as La

Caricia de un Pájaro (A Bird's Caress), a piece

done in painted bronze, are also exhibited on theterrace. The foundation houses a total of 11,000

Miró pieces: 240 paintings, 175 sculptures, 9

tapestries, 4 ceramic works, an almost complete

selection of his graphic work and 8,000 dra-

wings.

international movement throughout Europe.



highlights. The main attraction during the Grec

Festival, however, is the Grec Theatre.Although its name and structure (akin to a

Greek amphitheatre) recall an ancient era, the

theatre's origins are actually of a much more

recent time. The architect Ramon Raventós

built the theatre in 1929 for the International

Fair that took place that year. The theatre was

built into an old quarry on one side of the moun-

tain. The entrance is adorned with gardens and

a loggia typical of the era. The loggia also con-

tains another treat for art lovers - a sculpture byJosep Viladomat, entitled La Noia de la Trena.

During the summer festival that bears its name,

the theatre hosts an always interesting and

varied programme that includes theatrical,

musical, dance and concert performances. The

festival has gained in popularity over the years

and now has such a large following that other

venues have been added to support the growing

programme. Events often take place at venues

such as the Picornell pool, usually site of events

on the children's programme, the Theatre

Institute, the Mercat de les Flors, the Lliure

Theatre and even outdoor spaces such as the

Plaça del Rei.

Another fascinating place just around the corner

from the Grec Theatre is the Archaeological

Museum of Catalonia. The museum is a form

of time travel, taking visitors back to their mostancient origins. The journey begins with prehis-

toric man and carries through our entire evolu-

tion up to the middle ages. The collection con-

sists of important findings from a variety of

excavations undertaken in Catalonia and inclu-

des artefacts from ancient Catalan settlements

te at o a ove e t t oug out u ope.

The collection's highlight is a series of mural

paintings that, due to their size, exceptional

quality and truly unique character, are conside-

red definitive of this style. Gothic art, on the

other hand, is characterised by a wealth of mate-

rials and the enormous variety of decorative and

figurative elements applied in an equally variednumber of techniques and typologies. These

include murals, paintings on tablets, gold- and

silversmithing, glazing, sculptural work with

stone, wood and marble. The majority of the

Gothic art stems from the period spanning the

13th and 15th centuries in Catalonia. The

museum also includes well-selected collections

of art from the Renaissance, the Baroque and

the 19th and 20th century with special emphasis

on the Modernist and Realist movements. Andif that weren't already more than sufficient, the

museum also invites you to wander through its

basement and visit its unusual collection of dra-

wings and etchings, a coin collection reaching

as far back as the 6th century B.C. and an enti-

re room dedicated to the art of photography,

including both historical as well as avant-garde

work. If you wander down the immense series

of steps that lead up to the MNAC, you reach

the CaixaForum, a cultural centre located on the

Avenida Marquès de Comillas. The centre is

dedicated to a completely different time frame

than the MNAC but is equally recommendable.

Located inside an old factory from the moder-

nist era, built by the architect Josep Puig i

Cadafalch, the centre organises different exhibi-

tions showcasing the work of contemporary

painters, sculptors and photographers. In addi-

tion to the exhibitions, the centre always offersa series of lectures, conferences and children's

activities. The centre's 3,000 square metres are

divided up between three, separate halls, each

one focused on a different social or educational

activity, as well as a multi-media centre and two

multi-purpose spaces. Last but not least, the

centre also has an impressive auditorium, which

can seat 350 people, and is used for a variety of

different events, such as film screenings and

concerts.

The Mies van der Rohe Pavilion, another glo-

rious reminder of the 1929 International Fair, is

just a few metres from the CaixaForum . The

building marked a turning point in contempo-

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Fundació Joan Miró

Parc de Montjuïc, s/n

Tel. +34 93 443 94 70

www.bcn.fjmiro.es

Timetable: October-June: open Tuesday-Saturday from 10am to 7pm; Thursday from 10am to 9:30pm

10am to 2:30pm. Closed Mondays, except holidays. Tickets: 7,20 € general admission. Temporary exh

Underground: Espanya (L1 and L3). Then take bus number 50 or 55.

Poble Espanyol

Avda Marquès de Comillas, 13

Tel. +34 93 508 63 00

Timetable: Open every day. Monday from 9am to 8pm. Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday from 9am t

9am to 4am. Sundays from 9am to 12am. Free admission to the grounds starting at 8pm.

Underground: Espanya (L1 and L3). Then take any of the buses heading up Montjuic Mountain.

www.poble-espanyol.com

Pavelló Mies van der RoheAvenida Marquès de Comillas, s/n

Timetable: 10am to 8pm, every day.

Tickets: 3,5 € general admission

Underground: España (L1 and L3)

www.miesbcn.com

Galeria O límpica

Estadi Olímpic - Passeig Olímpic, s/n

Tel. +34 93 426 06 60

www.fundaciobarcelonaolimpica.esTimetable: October through March from 10am to 1pm and 4pm to 6pm. Closed Saturdays, Sundays an

Tickets: Adults 2,70 €. Children and senior citizens : 1,50 €

Underground: Espanya (L1 and L3). Then take bus number 55.

Fundació Fran Daurel

Avda Marquès de Comillas, s/n

Poble Espanyol (Porta del Carme)

Tel. +34 93 423 41 72

www.fundaciofrandaurel.com

Timetable: Monday to Sunday from 10am to 7pm.

Underground: Espanya (L1 and L3)

CaixaForum

Avda Marquès de Comillas, 6-8

Tel. +34 93 476 86 00

www.caixaforum.com

Timetable: Tuesday to Sunday from 10am to 8pm.

Closed Mondays except holidays.

Free admissionUnderground: Espanya (L1 and L3)

Museu d'Arqueologia de Catalunya (MAC)

Passeig de Santa Madrona, 39-41

Tel. +34 93 424 65 77

Timetable: Tuesday-Saturday from 9:30am to 7pm.



The Eixample has long had the reputation of

being Barcelona's most elegant district. Thearea's history is inextricably linked to the deve-

lopment of Barcelona and its transformation

into a modern city. Barcelona prior to the 19th

century would not be recognisable to most peo-

ple who know it today. The main and most

immediately obvious difference was the city

wall that surrounded Barcelona, outside of

which all construction and development was

strictly forbidden. The space within the city

walls was sufficiently large to accommodatethe population for many centuries. However,

the beginnings of the industrial age brought

about a vast increase in the city's population as

well as the demand for more areas on which to

build factories. The demands of both the people

d th i d t i l b i tl d

choice, but the manner in which the central

government imposed their decision angered theCatalan capital, which had always fought relen-

tlessly for autonomy, and earned the plan a lot

of ill will in Barcelona.

As a result, the Cerdà Plan, which had origi-

nally been conceived for the entire city, was

limited to the section between Plaça Catalunya

and Diagonal that we know as the Eixample

today. The area was divided into two sections,

Esquerra and Dreta (left and right). The left andright sections can be easily identified by stan-

ding on Passeig de Gràcia and looking up

towards the mountains with your back to the

sea.

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After crossing the wide avenue Gran Via de les

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PASSEIG DE GRÀCIA

This is by far the most elegant and sophistica-

ted avenue in the city. Looking down the length

of the Passeig de Gràcia, with its high-end

designer stores and chic hotels, it is difficult to

imagine that it was once nothing more than adirt road connecting the walled in city with the

little village Gràcia on the hill. It wasn't until

the mid-19th century that the road started to

take on its modern appearance. Wealthy fami-

lies commissioned houses along this avenue,

the city adorned it with modernist streetlamps

and benches and theatres and other leisure

venues opened their doors to cater to the plea-

sures of the rich. At one point the area even had

a racecourse! All of these activities and esta-blishments earned the area the nickname

Elysian Fields for its classy and yet fun-loving

character. Anyone with any sort of standing in

the upper echelons of Barcelona society had to

frequent the Passeig de Gràcia social circles or

be considered out of touch with all that was

new, exciting and chic in the city.

The new buildings sprouting up along the ave-

nue all bore the surnames of their owners. This

is the reason why most of the city's modernist

landmarks have their own, specific name. Forexample, the building at Passeig de Gràcia 2-4,

right at the beginning of the avenue, is the CasaPons i Pascual. This building, along with the

Casas Rocamora (located a little further up on

the avenue), were the first houses to gain any

sort of reputation in the Eixample Their archi-

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Corts Catalanes, you reach the oldest block in

the Eixample. This section of the area is delimi-

ted by the streets Diputació, Consell de Cent,

Roger de Llúria and Pau Clarís. The block itself

is bisected by a narrow, pleasant passage

known as the Passatge Permanyer , which is

almost hidden from public view. This little stre-et is flanked by some very interesting buildings

that still preserve the interior gardens as they

were originally designed by Ildefons Cerdà.

The Manzana de la DiscordiaHeading up the avenue towards Diagonal, you

come to one of the most interesting sections of

not only Passeig de Gràcia but of all Barcelona.

This is the so-called Manzana de la Discordia

(a fun little word play since manzana meansboth apple and city block - therefore, roughly

translated, it can mean both apple and block of

discord). This block is located between Consell

de Cent and Aragó, and the name refers to the

rather disparate and visually stunning effect

produced by having three of the most exem-

plary, modernist buildings within a mere 100

metres of each other.

The first building you encounter is the Casa

Lleó-Morera (Passeig de Gràcia, 35. Tel. 93

488 01 39), designed by the architect LluísDoménech i Montaner. This building is a bit of

an anomaly since its name doesn't reflect the

owner's surname as was customary at the time.

The name, lleó (lions) and morera (mulberry),

refer to the decorative elements Doménech i

Montaner used on the facade and which are ins-

always open, and the ground floor is often used

for temporary exhibitions The peculiar choco

construction many people found it to be, quite

simply a "horrible building" Nowadays it is

with a

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for temporary exhibitions. The peculiar choco-

late shop located on the ground floor offers a

curious way of getting acquainted with the

building's history. After all, the original owner

was chocolate entrepreneur Antoni Amatller,

who bought the building in 1898 and commis-

sioned Josep Puig i Cadafalch to remodel it.

The building's design combines a variety of

styles, including Romanesque, Gothic and

Baroque influences, and was constructed usingthe classic materials of the time. The iron is

wrought into whimsical shapes, glasswork

decorates many of the undulating corners and

most of the walls are covered with mosaics.

The bottom floor is home to one of Catalonia's

most prestigious jewellery houses. The com-

pany has preserved the original windows,

which are decorated in a floral pattern charac-

teristic of the modernist period.

Josep Puig i Cadafalch designed a number of

important buildings in Barcelona, including the

Casa de les Punxes also known as the Casa

Terrades. This building was built at the begin-

ning of the 20th century, and the six, pointed

towers endow it with a certain, medieval look.

Due to the political climate that marked Spain

in the early 20th century and Puig i Cadafalch's

leftist leanings, the architect had to go intoexile in Paris in 1936. That was the year the

Spanish Civil War broke out and when it came

to a close in 1939, the ruling government of

Dictator Francisco Franco prevented him from

practising his profession in Spain.

simply, a horrible building . Nowadays, it is

considered one of Gaudí's greatest achieve-

ments and one of the most brilliant examples of

modernism worldwide. Despite the passing of

time, the building still manages to somehow

exude the same daring and innovative spirit

that it was famous for at the beginning.

Gaudí was commissioned to build the house by

the Batlló family, one of the most important

members of the local textile industry. The

architect allowed his imagination free reign and

experimented with colours, materials and sha-

pes. These elements were so innovative that

they came to symbolise Barcelona. The house

might be seen as a work of art today but to

Gaudí it was just another job. He took everycent he earned on the Casa Batlló and invested

it into his greatest and personally most engros-

sing project: the Sagrada Familia.

The building displays all the materials conside-

red characteristic of the modernist style. Gaudí

covered the entire facade and the roof with

colourful ceramic tile, arranged into his classic

mosaics. The balconies and most of the decora-

tive elements inside were fashioned out of

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Up towar ds the Avenida DiagonalA little further up the avenue, on the opposite

side of the street from the Casa Batlló, you

encounter another must-see landmark. In this

case, the landmark in question is neither a

museum nor a monument. It is a store called

Vinçon , located at Passeig de Gràcia, 96. This

store represents the kind of modern design that

has made Barcelona famous, and you can find just about anything here, including office and

household items, rare and valuable furniture

and industrial design pieces. The apartment

located above the store is an additional attrac-

tion; this was where Ramon Casas, one of

Spain's most important modernist painters,

once lived. The studio has been maintained

almost untouched since Casas worked here,

and the pretty interior patio allows visitors a

glimpse into what daily life is like in the

Eixample today.

Another of the city's landmark, modernist buil-

dings, the Casa Milà, is located just a short dis-

tance ahead. Many consider this house to be

one of Gaudí's crowning achievements. The

building is officially known by the original

owners' surname, but locals didn't hesitate to

christen it with a more colloquial pet name: LaPedrera. The nickname is derived from the

building's impressive stone facade (piedra is

Spanish for stone) which, despite being diffi-

cult to imagine today, was the subject of moc-

kery and criticism in its day. Not even the buil-

ding's first owner, Mrs. Milà, was all that con-

tent with the design, and when Gaudí died she

changed the entire interior decor, opting for a

far more classical look a la Louis XVI.

Despite resistance and criticism, Gaudí never

wavered in his decision to use La Pedrera as his

first experiment with the concept of "free surf

ce area". This revolutionary concept did away

with the master wall and instead used pillars

and partition walls as support structures. As a

result, the tenant could change the arrangement

of the rooms at free will and as often as desired.

This was the premise for one of the most radi-

cally innovative and abstract works of architec-

tural sculpture, which is all the more impressi-

ve for not once using a straight line.

Visitors can freely explore the entire interior as

well as head up to the roof and wander amongst

the peculiar chimneys. The Pedrera was the

point of departure for three of the artist's most

important, emblematic projects (the Casa

Batlló, the Sagrada Familia and the Park

Güell), which makes it an excellent place for

gaining insight into Gaudí's unique artisticvision. During the summer, the terrace is also

open in the evenings and offers a programme of

jazz and flamenco concerts. The building's

interior is open all year, and the rooms belon-

ging to the Cultural Centre Caixa Catalunya

often host temporary exhibitions. A visit to the

centre includes access to the attic, which con-

tains an exhibition of illustrations about the

architect's work.

The route continues until Avenida Diagonal,

where you come to the Palau Robert, one of

the few remaining, urban palaces. It is now the

Information Centre of Catalonia. The Tourism

Office provides information on routes, trans-

port and points of interest throughout the four,

Catalan provinces. Every six months, the pala-

ce organises a topical exhibition as well as

workshops and multimedia presentations about

different cultural subjects.

THE RAMBLA CATALUNYAThe Rambla Catalunya has never enjoyed the

same level of fame as the Passeig de Gràcia,

but it follows almost the same trajectory and

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La Pedrer a - Centre Cultural Caixa CatalunyaProvença, 261-265

Tel. 902 400 973

www.caixacatalunya.es

Timetable: Monday-Sunday, 10am-8pm

Tickets: Espai Gaudí and Piso de la Pedrera 7 €. Temporary Exhibitions - free admission.

Underground: Diagonal (L3 and L5)

Museu Egipci de Barcelona (Egyptian Museum of Barcelona)Valencia, 284

Tel. +34 93 488 01 88

www.fundclos.com

cal treasure with the public, and the museum

even organises nocturnal tours complete with

theatrical performances to bring you closer to

the time of the pharaohs. This specialised tour

requires a prior reservation (Tel. 93 488 01 88).

Carrer Mallorca also contains some important

buildings. It is rather common in Barcelona

that urban palaces not used as museums havebeen taken over by official institutions. This is

the case of the Palau Ramon Muntaner , loca-

ted at number 278 and designed by Lluís

Doménech i Montaner. Nowadays, it houses

the Catalan government's delegation. The inte-

rior decor still preserves much of the classic, by

now invaluable furniture as well as sculptures

by artists such as Eusebi Arnau. Arnau collabo-

rated quite frequently with the architect

Doménech i Montaner. One of their mostfamous joint efforts is the modernist complex

at the Sant Pau Hospital.

Another example of an urban palace is the

Palau Casades, located at Carrer Mallorca,

283. The building is now used by the Colegio

de Abogados, the local Bar Association, and

generally access is reserved for people in the

law profession. However, if you don't call

attention to the fact that you are a tourist, you

can easily slip inside and take a look at the cen-

tral patio and, if you are a lucky, peek into the

library.

The Casa Thomas, another building by

Domènech i Montaner, is located at Carrer

Mallorca, 293. In addition to the building'sarchitectural value, one of the most important

stores specialising in avant-garde design, B.D.Ediciones de Diseño, is located on the bottom

floor. The store is the only place, for example,

to market and sell designs by Salvador Dalí.

Carrer Aragó is another important avenue and

site of the Antoni Tàpies Foundation. The foun-

dation was inaugurated in 1990 and is located

inside a building once used by the old publis-hing house Montaner i Simó, designed, yet

again, by Doménech i Montaner. The founda-

tion is the perfect place to explore the Catalan

artist's work as well as take advantage of the

temporary exhibitions, symposiums, conferen-

ces, film screenings and other cultural events

organised here on a regular basis. The building

is impossible to miss - its striking appearance is

owed

piece N

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The Gràcia neighbourhood has always been a

little world onto its own, marked by centuries

of charm and a very independent spirit. In fact,

during the 19th century Gràcia wasn't part of

Barcelona at all; rather, it was a small village

nestled into the hills outside the city walls. It

wasn't until the walls were torn down that

Gràcia became a Barcelona neighbourhood,

embraced by the expanding growth of the city.

The neighbourhood is clearly demarcated by

streets such as Avenida Diagonal, Vía Augusta,

Príncip d'Astúries, Travessera de Dalt,

Sardenya, Pi i Maragall, Córcega and Bailén.

However, despite being so clearly defined, the

neighbourhood is actually larger than you

adorned streets and a lot of good eating and

drinking. Gràcia also maintains the political

and social spirit that has coloured the area for

centuries and is often the site of demonstra-

tions, marches and gatherings. The neighbour-

hood's thoroughly individual character permea-

tes the atmosphere and a leisurely stroll

through its many little streets and squares gives

you an invaluable look into this charming, uni-

que place.

The two underground stations that flank the

neighbourhood are Fontana (L3) on Gran de

Gràcia Street and Joanic (L4) on Plaza Joanic.

We will set out from the latter square, which

isn't of any particular historical or architectural

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the neighbourhood's most important squares. It

was renovated in 1999, a process that included

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the planting of many different species of trees,

an element that has done much to improve the

appearance of the square. Another element to

benefit from the renovation was the fountain,

which still bears the village's old coat of arms.

Another traditional fountain graces the Plaça

del Nord, which can be reached by heading

north on Carrer Alzina or Carrer Ventallat. This

square was developed in 1851, when Gràcia

was still an independent village. The fountain

hasn't changed in almost 100 years; if you look

closely you can still see the ancient village's

coat of arms, a lyre encircled by two laurel

branches, much like on the fountain in Plaça

Virreina.

The square is also home to a cultural organisa-

tion, Els Lluïsos de Gràcia, which has operated

in the neighbourhood for a long time. Take a

step back and look up at the organisation's buil-

ding, and you will notice that it has a peculiar

sun dial embedded into the facade.

As you wander towards Carrer Gran de Gràcia,

you come to the Plaça del Diamant. The squa-

re shares its name with a marvellous novel byCatalan author Mercè Rodoreda, which has

been adapted to film, stage and television.

Therefore, the Plaça del Diamant is much more

than simply a square; the name has embedded

itself into the collective imagination of the city.

The novel tells the story of La Colometa, the

irresistibly likeable protagonist, and is set in

post-war Barcelona. La Colometa was immor-

talised in a sculptural piece by the artist Xavier

Medina-Campeny, which now adorns the squa-

re.

A quaint little network of streets spreads out

from here and continues along Carrer Astúries

to the left and down Carrer Verdi to the right.

Retail business along these little streets has wit-

nessed a renaissance in recent years. Young

designers have found a special niche here, and

stores selling an original selection of their cre-

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ations abound in the area. One of the most inte-

resting is Modart, on Carrer Astúries, whereeven the display windows are works of art.

Verdi also has an excellent variety of shops as

well as restaurants, cafes and a cinema famous

for offering some of the most interesting, alter-

native programming in Barcelona. Strolling

down Verdi, after crossing the streets Perla and

Vallfogona, brings you to the Plaça de la

Revolució de Setembre de 1868.

Walking around the square, you are likely tonotice some letters engraved into the ground.

Since the individual letters are set rather far

apart, you might dismiss them as mere decora-

tion. They do, however, fit together to spell a

word - starting in the right corner and reading

from north to south they form the word "revo-



mistakenly believe that the rumba, a flamenco-

style dance, is an Andalusian invention. In fact,

it was born right here, in Catalonia, and one of

its first and truest masters was Gato-Pérez. A

small plaque mounted on a wall in the square

remembers this musical master and his contri-

butions.

The walk comes to an end with a moment of

tranquillity in one of the area's modern squares

named after singer John Lennon. This quiet,serene spot is just around the corner from the

market along Travessera de Gràcia and was

inaugurated in 1993 in order to connect the

streets Puigmartí, Quevedo and Milà i

Fontanals.

However, there is one street that has to be

included in the walk, a street without which any

visit to Gràcia would be incomplete. This is

Gran de Gràcia widens before reaching

Diagonal, and this open, spacious stretch islined with trees and has a pretty, green "island"

along its centre known as Jar dinets de Gràcia.

Besides lovely green lawns and shade-giving

trees, the gardens are also distinguished by two

statues at either end. The area looks so quiet

and peaceful that it is hard to believe that it is

most famous for its dissenting spirit.

Throughout history it has been a gathering spot

for many politically motivated protests and

meetings. And even today, its lush peaceful

atmosphere often gives way to groups who use

the space to express their ideas and grievances.

At the upper end of the gardens, right at the

corner with Gran de Gràcia, lies the Hotel

Casa Fuster , the only hotel in Spain to be

designated a five-star, deluxe Grand Hotel and

historical monument. The building is a specta-

cularly beautiful creation by modernist archi-

tect Lluís Doménech i Montaner and housesone of the most elegant and unique cafés in the

city. If you cannot resist the plush surroundings

and head in for something to drink be prepared

to pay five-star prices! A coffee with milk, for

example, costs 6 €.

When you reach the intersection of Avenida

Diagonal with Gran de Gràcia you might noti-

ce another, somewhat peculiar place. This point

of intersection is known as the Cinc d'Oros(roughly translated as the five of gold). The

name is derived from the fact that the square's

design bears a remarkable resemblance to the

five of gold card in the Spanish-style card deck.

The centre of the square is dominated by a

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The best place to begin your walk down the

Rambla is Plaça Catalunya, the very centre of

the city. The first section of the promenade,known as the Rambla de Canaletes, begins

here. This stretch gets its name from the foun-

tain located at the top right of the avenue. The

fountain has become so popular over the years

that it is considered one of the city's symbolic

landmarks. Many visitors who are familiar with

the fountain's reputation might be a little disap-

pointed when they first see the real thing.

However, despite its perhaps modest appearan-

ce, the fountain's fame is justified by its interes-ting history. The fountain was originally a

water trough and already stood here when

Barcelona was still surrounded by the ancient

city wall. When the trough was turned into the

fountain we know today, a legend arose that

h d k f i ld b d i d

your surroundings as you take in all that this

famous promenade has to offer.

As you head down this stretch of the Rambla,

you will notice a variety of peculiar establis-

hments, mostly dedicated to the omnipresent

souvenirs, as well as some stores specialising

in antique musical instruments. The first street

to your right is Carrer Tallers, where you can

find one of the city's classic cocktail bars, the

Coctelería Boadas. This was the first place in

Barcelona to serve mixed drinks and cocktails,

and the bar has maintained much of its traditio-nal character and charm. The bar is also famous

for being a popular watering hole for show

business personalities, a fact that has done

much to add to its fame. The many, little streets

branching off the Rambla lead to other shop-

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As you continue your stroll down the Rambla,

you now reach what many consider the prome-

nade's most special stretch - the Rambla d e les

might

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Güell,

chapter entitled Markets). This is the city's

most famous market and truly a world onto its

own. You should definitely make a detour into



nade s most special stretch the Rambla d e les

Flors also known as the Rambla de Sant Josep.

This section has a permanently romantic air

about it. During the 19th century it was the only

place selling flowers in all of Barcelona, and

even today it is one of the places selling more

flowers per square metre worldwide. A popular

anecdote adds much to the area's romantic

reputation. During the 19th century, the flower

stalls often turned into improvised, spontane-

ous gathering spots for the city's intellectuals.

Here they would exchange ideas amidst the

many, colourful floral arrangements. According

to one local legend, the impressionist painter

Ramon Casas met the woman who would later

be his wife at one of these gatherings.

One of the Rambla's other claims to fame is the

vast variety of street performers lining the pro-

menade. Whether with musical, dance or clown

performances or as human statues, these artists

do much to add a modern splash of colour to

the atmosphere. The human statues represent

an imaginative, ever-changing cast of charac-

ters, including Che Guevara, Humphrey

Bogart, Cleopatra as well as more generic types

like floral arrangements, cowboys, angels,

devils and surrealist paintings, and they canremain immobile for hours. If you want to see

them move, you will have to provide them with

a financial contribution towards their art.

The Palau de la Virreina is located on your

right just a few metres further down the

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the market and admire its beautiful iron and

glass architecture as well as soak in its unique,

one-of-a-kind atmosphere.

The Rambla de les Flors comes to an end at

one of the area's most unique buildings: the

Casa Bruno Quadros. The building is also

known as the House of Umbrellas. The buildin-

g's owner became a millionaire selling this par-

ticular accessory and several umbrellas decora-

te the facade. The building is whimsical, some-

what eccentric and very original. The corner

looking out onto the Rambla is adorned with a

Chinese dragon that keeps a menacing watch

over the entire promenade.

The beginning of the Rambla dels Caputxins

is unmistakable; it is marked by an authentic,

open-air art piece. Keep your eyes on the

ground, and you will notice the enormous

mosaic, a piece by Joan Miró, covering most of

the Rambla's midsection. When you reach this

point take a look to your right. The building

that stands here is a temple for all opera lovers

- the Gran Teatre del Liceu. The building was

completely and accurately reconstructed after

being severely damaged by a fire in 1994. Formany years, this was an exclusive gathering

spot for the bourgeoisie's most refined mem-

bers. Nowadays, holding a season pass to the

Liceu is still a rather distinguished affair;

however, times have changed and the opera is

no longer the elitist art it was in the 19th cen-



Museu Marítim (Marit ime Museum) Avda de les Drassanes, s/n

Tel. +34 93 342 99 20Timetable: Monday-Sunday, 10am-7pm.

Ti k 40 € F d i i fi S d f f h h

of the tour, relating the subject with as many of

the museum's personalities as possible.

The museum is just around the corner from one

of Barcelona's most unique and charming cafés

- El Bosc de les Fades (the Fairy Forest). The

café's interior resembles an enchanted forest,

complete with magical castles and gnome huts

hidden between trees and small springs of

water. The café is made up of several, separate

spaces, each one recreating a different environ-

ment. One resembles an old saloon from the

frontier days of the Wild West. Another space,

known as the Room of Wonders, invites guests

to sit back and allow their imagination to take

flight. This is the perfect café for taking a break

and escaping into a completely unique and fan-

tastical world.

After passing a street called Arc del Teatre, ves-

tibule to the city's red-light district, you come

to the Santa Mónica Art Centre, located next to

a church of the same name. The centre hosts a

variety of exhibitions and events and little

about the building recalls its past as a convent.

The end of the Rambla still holds a surprise in

store - a reward for the enthusiastic explorer.

The Drassanes building originates from theMiddle Age and is the largest of its kind to still

exist intact. It is also the most important exam-

ple in Barcelona of a civil building designed in

the Gothic style. The building underwent a pre-

cise and careful renovation and is now open to

the public. The Maritime Museum is also loca-

ted in one section of this building. The end of

the Rambla is marked by a famous monument,

a tribute to the explorer Christopher Columbus.

The monument commemorates Columbus' pre-

sentation of his first American voyage to the

Catholic Monarchs, an event that took place in

Barcelona. The tall, iron column with a statue

of Columbus on top has become one of

Barcelona's symbolic landmarks. Something

fewer people know is that there is an elevator

inside the column that takes visitors up to the

top. It is definitely a ride worth taking since the

top offers a lovely panoramic view of the city.

The Columbus monument faces the sea and the

port where the Golondrinas still dock, just as

they have for centuries. They are typical fishing

boats that are now mainly used as a tourist

attraction. They offer tours along the city'scoastline all the way to the new Forum

grounds. The same tours are also offered by

modern catamarans, but they can't hold a can-

dle to the charm of the traditional Golondrinas.

If you aren't up for a boat ride, you can instead

opt for a visit to the piece of land that

Barcelona took back from the sea in 1992. To

access this area, cross over the Rambla de

Mar , a wooden footbridge held up by an ironsupport structure that adds a modern twist to

the classic idea of the promenade. The Rambla

de Mar ends at the Moll d'Espanya, site of the

Maremagnum shopping centre, the IMAX the-

atre and the Barcelona aquarium.



No one questions the fact that Barcelona is aMediterranean city. For many years, however,

the local population seemed to forget its coas-

tline, letting what is now considered one of the

city's most attractive features fall into a state of

disrepair. The four kilometre-long beaches,

divided into sections named Sant Sebastià, La

Barceloneta, Nova Icària, Bogatell, Mar Bella

and Nova Mar Bella, are the result of a rather

recent effort. The sandy beaches with their

beach bars (chiringuitos) and wide promenadenow attract 7 million visitors every year, quite

a record for an area that was once little more

than an industrial wasteland.

The beaches were rehabilitated and cleaned up

t f th it ' ti f th 1992

fishermen, who lived in precarious conditions.The first houses were built in 1754. The cons-

truction process brought with it a significant

increase in population. Fishermen and people

working a variety of harbour jobs flocked to the

new settlement.

Nowadays, the neighbourhood still maintains

its unique character. La Barceloneta feels like a

different world, a village removed from the city

that surrounds it. However, the atmospherebears little resemblance to the fishing village of

years ago. It has become one of the city's live-

liest areas, especially in the summer when the

beaches fill with people and the chiringuitos(beach ba rs) and bars located on the sand open

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throughout the neighbourhood.



Barceloneta, much like other fishing villages

along the coast, still practices the traditional

fish auction. This age-old event takes place

inside a building known as La Llotja. Gaining

access to the building and the auction might

prove challenging, but you shouldn't let your-self get discouraged. After all, nothing is lost

by trying!

The traditional section of the neighbourhood

now unfolds to your left in a quadrant of many,

tiny streets. As you wander through them, you

are still greeted by freshly washed laundry han-

ging outside windows, traditional shops, wine

cellars (bodegas), bars and some of the city'sbest seafood restaurants. In fact, one of

Barcelona's most renowned restaurants, Can

Solé (Sant Carles, 4), is located here, serving

exquisite seafood for more than a hundred

years.

La Barceloneta is also an excellent place for

traditional "tapas". One of the absolute classics

is la bomba, a potato dumpling filled with meat

and served with a spicy sauce or the traditional

all i oli (a dip made out of olive oil and garlic).

This is a treat worthy of its name and requires

a strong palate. This tapa is best accompanied

with a cold beer, either a caña (draft beer) or a

glass straight from the barrel, which is always

served ice cold.

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The atmosphere changes radically once you

reach the beach. La Barceloneta is now a cos-

mopolitan neighbourhood, a fact manifested

most clearly during the summer months. La

Barceloneta is graced with one of the liveliestand most popular beaches. While some people

bathe and work on their tans, others wander the

sand selling jewellery, cold drinks, snacks,

sarongs or offering services such as massages

and temporary tattoos. Then there are those

who like to turn up the volume and dance to

enticing Cuban beats or intrepid kite-flying

enthusiasts who don't seem to mind the masses

of people around them. Of course this meansthat the beach is crowded, but the resulting

atmosphere is so cheerful and vibrant that you

will not want to miss out on the fun.

La Barceloneta faces the Port Vell, the section

of land that the city took back from the sea, and

which is also accessible using the footbridge at

the end of the Rambla. This modern stretch of

land surrounded by sea offers visitors a lot of

leisure options including a shopping centre,restaurants, bars, nightclubs and two of the cit-

y's most fascinating venues: the IMAX cinema

and the Aquarium.

The IMAX theatre (Moll d'Espanya, s/n. Tel.

932 251 111) is the city's most modern, cutting-

edge cinema showing films in IMAX,

Omnimax and 3D. Visitors can experience a 3D

voyage into the human body or groove to the

beats of Carlinhos Brown played over the bestsound system imaginable. The Aquarium (Moll

d'Espanya, s/n. Tel. 932 217 474) is the largest

in Europe and allows visitors the chance to dis-

cover the widest variety of Mediterranean

marine life. The space consists of twenty enor-

mous tanks and a long, transparent tunnel,

which allows visitors to walk amongst the

sharks. The most recently inaugurated section,

Explora, offers a series of interactive activities

aimed primarily at children. Explora gives



but crossing over the wide street is no cause for

distress. One of the most picturesque options is

the bridge in the Parc dels Ponts. The park has

a pretty lake, which is a very pleasant spot for

a short rest. After recuperating your exploring

spirit, you can end your walk at the Plaça de los

Campions (Champions Square). The square's

ground contains the 257 medals won during the

Olympic Games in 1992, and many athletesmimicked the famous Hollywood tradition and

left their handprints in the concrete.

One area not to be forgotten is the PortOlímpic or Olympic Port, without which the

Vila Olímpica would be incomplete. Many

yachts and smaller vessels dock at the marina

throughout the year, but the area has a lot more

to offer than pretty sailboats. The promenade

along the marina is dotted with bars, restau-

rants and nightclubs. The area is constantly

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The neighbourhood is characterised by an even

balance between buildings and green zones. A

short walk takes you to the Atlanta Gardens,

most famous for the tall chimney that still

stands amidst the green and serves as a remin-

der of the area´s industrial past. The chimney

once belonged to the factory Can Folch and is

one of the oldest in Barcelona. For something

more contemporary, visit the fountain on

Carrer Salvador Espriu. This is a collaborative

piece by the sculptor Juan Bordas, a native of

the Canary Islands, and Oscar Tusquets. The

latter is one of the most internationally renow-

ned Catalan architects who, in the past, has

collaborated with iconic artists the likes of

Salvador Dalí.

The parks along the Vila Olímpica are flankedby the Ronda del Litoral, an important tho-

roughfare. The traffic is usually quite intense,



Sometimes all that is old and traditional canwoo all that is fashionable and chic. InBarcelona, these kinds of May-Decemberunions aren't all that uncommon, at least as faras neighbourhoods are concerned. La Ribera,the Born and the Raval exemplify this trend.These three neighbourhoods are quite differentfrom one another, and yet they share one thingin common - they have turned into a Mecca forpeople who worship everything that is modern,hip and fashionable. Take some time to browsethe boutiques, lounge over coffee or dine at oneof the eclectic restaurants - this is where the hippeople come to play. The time of day makes nodifference there is always something happe-

course, everything here is a bit of a game, andthe most important playing cards are image andattitude.

Barcelona lacked an area like this for years:modern, cultural, extravagant, a little exaggera-ted but fun, multicultural and decidedly trendy.Now that the city has three such areas, theydraw in the coolest crowds and boast a selec-tion of the most happening, "in" places - andeveryone wants to join the fun. However,trendy nightlife and designer shopping isn't allthat can be found in these ancient areas. Theneighbourhoods are also rich in history; theyare places where every stone has a story to tell

hood wmerchacity byyed unhood etimes ging fo

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After visiting the concert hall, you can take anyof the little streets running parallel to VíaLaietana down through the neighbourhood.You will pass interesting local spots like the

In 190the Eumuch amuseu

Barcelona. The rooms are all organised chro-nologically, which allows visitors to follow,step by step, Picasso's growth and developmentas an artist. The first room is dedicated to



p g pMercat de la Santa Caterina, a newly restoredmarket with an unusually colourful roof, untilyou come to the famous street Carrer

Montcada. This is the heart of the medieval citywhere rich merchants built their palaces betwe-en the 14th and 16th centuries. An interestingexample is the Palau del Marquès de Llió.

Despite a number of renovations, the palacestill preserves much of its original charm. Itnow houses the Museu Textil i

d'Indumentària (Textile and ClothingMuseum), which has a lovely café-restaurantthat often organises jazz concerts and other liveperformances. The small store at the museum'sentrance sells the designer items that havecome to characterise the Born: pins, toys,designer clothes, accessories, jewellery, office

items and much more.

which bring tPink P

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Málaga, Picasso's hometown, and displays hisfirst, childhood, pencil drawings. The roomdedicated to Picasso's time in La Coruña shows

his early oil paintings, which already exhibitthe unusual use of colour that would later cha-racterise his work.

Picasso lived in Barcelona between 1895 and1897, still spending his summers in his home-town Málaga. The room dedicated to this eraincludes paintings such as La PrimeraComunión (First Communion) and Ciencia yCaridad (Science and Charity) for which hewon an honourable mention at the NationalFine Arts Exhibition in Madrid. Picasso spentthe following two years in Madrid, studyingfine art. When he returned to Barcelona in

1899, he became intensely involved with the



lessly into the peaceful and timeless atmosphe-re.

The square off to one side of the church, knownas Fossar de les Moreres, is also of great his-torical significance to the Catalan people. The

square was once the old, parish cemetery wherethe neighbourhood buried the soldiers who diedin the battle against the troops led by Felipe Vin 1714. The neighbourhood, which like therest of the city was heavily opposed to themonarch, lived through some of its darkest and

diffi l i i hi Wh F li V

the surface. The market had been guarding asecret for centuries - the remains of the ancient,medieval city. When taken together, the ruinsamount to what is probably the largest architec-tural park ever found in the urban centre of anyEuropean city. The ruins still tell stories aboutdaily life in the Middle Age and include fisher-men dwellings, stables, a blacksmith and seve-ral shops. This astounding and entirely unex-

pected discovery has obviously brought thelibrary project to a halt. The grounds willremain closed until a decision has been madeon the area's future.

Behind the market, after crossing CarrerPujades, is one of Barcelona's largest and mostpopular parks: the Ciutadela Park . This spa-cious, green area is attractive for a number of reasons; it is home to interesting historical buil-

dings, botanical species, a lake with row boatsand a fountain with a waterfall designed by ayoung Gaudí. People come here to practicesports, play ping-pong, have picnics, strollamidst the trees as well as participate in themany events that take place here throughout theyear. However, the park's origins have littlebearing on the lush place of leisure the park istoday. Only the name offers a reminder of itspast. It was once a citadel built by Felipe V

after destroying the La Ribera neighbourhood.The king wanted the largest military fortress inEurope from which to keep a watchful eye onthe city below. Adding insult to injury, Felipe Vbuilt his fortress using money collected from

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The first area to show signs of a radical trans-formation was the northernmost section, clo-sest to Plaça Universitat. An old charitable ins-titution, the Casa de la Caritat, was redesigned

doors and-coenvirontrendy



Museu Tèxtil i d'Indumentària (Textile and Clothing Museum)

Montcada, 12-14Tel. +34 93 319 76 03www.museutextil.bcn.es

Timetable: Tuesday-Saturday, 10am-6pm. Sundays and Holidays, 10am-3pm. Closed on Mondays.Tickets: 3,50 €. Free admission to the permanent collection on the first Sunday of every month. Undergr

Museu Picasso

Montcada, 15-23Tel. +34 93 319 63 10www.museupicasso.bcn.esTimetable: Tuesday-Saturday and holidays, 10am-8pm. Sundays from 10am-3pm. Closed on Mondays.Tickets: Permanent Exhibition: 5 €. Temporary Exhibitions: 5 €. Both exhibitions: 8 €. Free admission eUnderground: Jaume I (L4)

Centre de Cultura Contemporània (CCCB)

Montalegre, 5Tel. +34 93 306 41 00www.cccb.orgTimetable: Tuesday Thursday and Friday 11am-2pm and 4pm-8pm Wednesday and Saturdays 11am-8

sion, which resulted in poorly and rapidly cons-tructed housing and a dangerous lack of sani-tary conditions. Consequently, the neighbour-hood fell victim to frequent and devastating

epidemics. The Raval no longer bore anyresemblance to its bucolic origins. Instead ithad become a run-down, crime-ridden ghettothat people feared to cross - a reputation thatearned it the nickname "Chinatown" (BarrioChino) for its similarity to the then infamousChinatown in San Francisco.

The neighbourhood was devastated by drugs,prostitution and poverty, and the Raval's tragicstate seemed destined to continue forever.Then, in the late 1980s, the Raval's fate sud-denly took a turn in a different direction.Barcelona was to be an Olympic city, and thelong-forgotten Raval emerged from oblivion. Itreceived a massive make-over: new housing,better social services and a deep-reaching effortto eradicate the area's drug-dealing strong-holds. Of course a few problem pockets remai-

ned, but most of the Raval began turning itslong, unfortunate history around.

as the Centre de Cultura Contemporània de

Catalunya (Centre for Contemporary Cultureor CCCB). The centre, located on Montalegre5, is one of the city's most active and cutting-

edge cultural centres, organising a wide varietyof exhibitions, concerts, conferences, lecturesand all kinds of urban activities and program-mes.

Right around the corner, facing the Plaça delsÀngels, is the Museum of Contemporary Art

of Barcelona or MACBA. The modern buil-ding, defined by clean, minimalist lines, wasdesigned by North-American architect RichardMeier. The programme inside the museum is asexciting and innovative as its exterior and con-sists of temporary exhibitions and parallel-run-ning activities such as conferences, lectures,presentations and discussions related to theavant-garde movements of the last century. TheMACBA's youthful and modern character hasturned the Plaça dels Àngels into a populargathering spot for the city's younger genera-

tions (including many skaters who make gooduse of the square's design). Art galleries haveeagerly paid exorbitant rents to open their

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The Gothic Quarter is Barcelona' s oldest area ,built upon the remains of the ancient Roman

city known as Colonia Iulia Augusta PaternaFaventia. The Roman city, founded in the 1stcentury B.C., had its centre on the MountTàber, a hill that is now covered by the areaaround Plaça Sant Jaume and Plaça dels

Traginers in the heart of the Gothic Quarter.The area's importance cannot be overstated -this is a place where the city's past and presentcollide, where history meets innovation. Inshort, it is the heart of the city and an explora-tion of this historical district is absolutely

The modern design of Busquets' building iscontrasted by the ancient Roman wall, whichonce measured more than 1,000 metres inlength. The remnants of the wall now form partof the Palacio Ep iscopal, which has a gallerywith an interesting Romanesque collection.Next to the palace is the Portal del Bisbe, which

was once the old Porta Praetoria - one of theentrances to the ancient Roman city. During theRoman era, the city had three, monumentalportals, but only one remains today. This parti-cular portal was the entrance used by pedes-trians. There is another structure left over from

stairwaresembrent pedancerthe bescathedrpanora

dings. religiosuch anal CaThe Pibuildin

The Goth i c qu ar te r and the o l d Jew isThe Goth i c qu ar te r and the o l d

tion includes pieces from as early as the MiddleAges through to modern day, belonging to avariety of genres such as painting, sculpture,gold and silver articles, clothing, ceramics andnumismatics Two of the most emblematic pie

called king alook npatio, wfor rea

series of steps were built to provide another andmore impressive manner of entering the cathe-dral.

The Cathedral of Barcelona is an excellent



numismatics. Two of the most emblematic pie-ces are an altarpiece featuring Saint John theBaptist by Bernat Martorell and a silver mons-

trance from the Santa Maria del Pi Church.

As you head up the narrow steps next to themuseum that lead up to the cathedral, you reachthe Pla de la Seu, the square immediately out-side the cathedral's entrance. This square datesback to the year 1421 and was built next to theRoman city wall. Ashort time later, the immen-

s e

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The Cathedral of Barcelona is an excellentexample of Gothic architecture and has morethan a few surprises in store for visitors who

venture inside. One of the most frequently visi-ted areas is the cloister, a peaceful and quietplace. You might be a little surprised to findthirteen geese living in this secluded spot. Theyare the cloister's permanent tenants and the factthat they number exactly thirteen is no coinci-dence. The number thirteen represents the ageat which Saint Eulalia, the city's first patronsaint, died a martyr.

Another section that you should definitely visitis the Cathedral Museum, which has a vastcollection of religious art and historical infor-



egg"). The goal is to keep the egg in motion

without having it fall off the spout. The buil-ding also houses the City History Museum's

archive, which has an interesting element on itsfacade. If you don't know about it, you wouldprobably dismiss the letter box as somethinginsignificant. However, this isn't an ordinaryletter box - this unusual piece stems from themodernist era and was designed by the famousarchitect Lluís Doménech i Montaner. By nowyou will have probably noticed that every cor-ner in this history soaked district has a story totell and a secret to reveal.

This isn't the only fascinating museum locatedin the cathedral's vicinity - another is theFrederic Marès Museum, named after thesculptor that founded it. This museum is a realtreat for art lovers and consists of the impressi-ve collection Marès amassed during his lifeti-

me and eventually donated to the city. Themuseum has two sections. One section is dedi-cated to the art of sculpture and spans a vast

time frame from the pre-Roman period to the

early 20th century. The second section, calledthe Collector's Cabinet, displays objects fromquotidian life in the 19th century. The sectionalso includes Marés' sculptural work and hisprivate collection of paintings and furniture.The museum's lovely patio is a popular meetingplace throughout the spring and summer whenyou can sit outside on the terrace.

One of the little streets heading towards PlaçaSant Jaume to the right of the cathedral leads toa tiny square called Plaça de Sant Felip Neri.Its size might make it seem rather insignificant,but the square guards a very dramatic and tra-gic past. The church that faces the square stillshows the traces of shrapnel on its facade,reminders of the violence that reigned hereduring the Spanish Civil War. Although thesquare was largely destroyed, the church remai-

ned standing. One of the church's most loyalparishioners was Antoni Gaudí. In fact, he wasleaving this square when he was hit by the tramthat killed him. On a more cheerful note, thesquare is also site of a rather odd museum - theMuseu del Calçat or the Shoe Museum, dedi-cated entirely to the history of footwear. Thecollection includes several historically signifi-cant shoes, such as the by now classic, giganticvariety worn by the clown Charlie Rivel.

The square between the cathedral and theRoman wall, bordering Vía Laietana, is namedafter Ramon Berenguer . This space isamongst the most interesting in the old citybecause it contains facades belonging to some

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special events, largely due to its impressive sizeand refined elegance.

The tower that connects the Palau Reial and thePalau del Lloctinent is known as the Mirador

families and communities continued to practicetheir religion in secret. However, the persecu-tion left lasting scars and much of the city'sJewish cultural and artistic heritage was eitherlost or destroyed. Nowadays, when you wander



del Rei Martí (King Martí's ObservationTower). As legend has it, King Martí, the lastsovereign ruler of the House of Barcelona, used

this tower to keep watch over the city and spotany potential threats coming in from the sea.

Upon leaving the square in the direction of Carrer Veguer, you come across the Casa

Padellàs, a building from the 16th century thatwas moved here, stone by stone, when VíaLaietana was built. The building houses theCity History Museum, which gives visitorsthe chance to travel back in time and become

more acquainted with Barcelona's past, inclu-ding an underground "journey" to the ancientRoman city of Barcino.

BARCELONA'S JEWISH DISTRICT

The Catholic and Jewish cultures in Barcelonaand throughout the rest of Spain lived togetherpeacefully for centuries. It wasn't until 1492,

when the Catholic Monarchs Isabel andFernando came to power, that the situationchanged. The Catholic Monarchs forced Jewsto either convert to Catholicism or face exileand death.

Despite the severe oppression, many Jewish

y y , ythrough the streets of the Call neighbour hood,which was once the old Jewish district, you canstill see many traces of this legacy.

The most interesting remnants can be found ina very small area, delimited by the streets Arcde Sant Ramon, Call, Bisbe and San Sever.This area is in the Gothic Quarter, close to thecathedral and the Plaça Sant Jaume. Since thenarrow streets are quite small and oftentimesshort, the area can be explored very easily.

The Main Synagogue of Barcelona can be

found on Carrer Marlet 5, tucked away in anarrow street. Finding the synagogue is likecoming across a secret, and inside visitors cangain a better understanding of the Jewish com-munity's cultural environment. The synago-gue's exterior is modest and can easily be mis-sed if you aren't paying close attention. It fitsseamlessly into the narrow streets of the Call.The synagogue is the oldest in Spain and one of

the oldest in Europe, and currently visitors canwander through its subterranean level, whichhouses yet another fascinating historical find.Besides displaying original artefacts from thatera, the space beneath the synagogue has reve-aled ancient stones, brought over fromCarthage by the Romans.

DespitcovereCenturattackeslowlyoppresits cultwas nofirst behouse

Years origins

century that the Call Association of Barcelonaundertook a study which revealed that the long-forgotten warehouse had once been an impor-tant place of Jewish worship. Efforts to rehabi-litate the synagogue commenced and interest in

of the Jewish community was the mikves or

ritual bath. This is still reflected in some of thestreet names, such as Banys Nous (new baths inCatalan), a narrow, little street not far from thesynagogue. Much has changed along this street

time -slowlyany of Plaça SPlaça d



Museu de la Catedral (Cathedral Museum)

Pla de la Seu, s/nTel. +34 93 310 2580Timetable: Monday - Sunday, 10am-1pm and 5pm-7pmTickets: 1 €. Free admission every first Sunday of the month from 10am-3pm.Underground: Jaume I (L4)

Museu Diocesà de Barcelona (Museum of the Barcelona Diocese)

Avenida de la Catedral, 4Tel. +34 93 315 2213Timetable: Tuesday-Saturday, 10am-2pm and 5pm-8pm. Sundays 11am-2pm. Closed on Mondays.

Tickets: 2 €Underground: Jaume I (L4)

Frederic Marès Museum

Pl. Sant Iu, 5-6Tel. +34 93 310 5800Timetable: Tuesday-Saturday, 10am-7pm. Sundays and holidays, 10am-3pm. Closed on Mondays.Tickets: 3 €Underground: Jaume I (L4)

Museu del Calçat (Shoe Museum)

Plaça Sant Felip Neri, 5Tel. +34 93 301 4533Timetable: Tuesday-Sunday, 11am-2pm. Closed on Mondays.Tickets: 2 €Underground: Jaume I (L4) and Liceu (L3)

the area's Jewish heritage grew. Part of therehabilitation included an excavation whichyielded another surprising find. The synago-

gue's floor had been guarding yet another secret- the remains of an ancient Roman wall fromthe time when Caracalla was emperor in the12th century. The wall is now covered withglass, and visitors can walk above it and exami-ne this incredible piece of history in detail.

The synagogue's main facade faces southeasttowards Jerusalem. A menorah, fashioned outof wrought-iron, has been placed between two

windows. Next to it are the scrolls containingthe pages of Judaism's holy book, the Torah.

Another tradition practised during the heyday

since it was a central part of Jewish life, but afew traces from that time still remain. The fur-niture store S'Oliver, at Banys Nous 10, has

preserved sections of these ancient baths.Needless to say, ignoring the changes broughton by time and seeing the baths as they oncewere does require a good dose of imagination,but it is interesting nonetheless to visit the pla-ces that once were so important to the city'sJewish population.

One of the busiest streets in the Call, CarrerFerran, holds another piece of this cultural past.

The Sant Jaume Church was built on top of the foundations of another ancient synagogue.By the same token, many of the area's Hebrewinscriptions have disappeared or faded with

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Once you have crossed the limits of the

Eixample Dret (right side of the Eixample),

you are now in a neighbourhood known prima-

rily for being the site of the Sagrada Familia. In

fact, before the church was built, the area,

known as Poblet, consisted of fields that were

not even considered part of the city.

Nowadays, the area surrounding the Sagrada

Familia is a busy neighbourhood with a lot of commercial and residential activity. Amongst

all the lively streets, there is one that stands out

for being a little different. This is the AvingudaGaudí . This street is actually more of a pedes-

trian promenade that cuts diagonally across the

neighbourhood and is a popular place amongst

locals. A variety of shops, restaurants and bars

line the promenade and people enjoy strolling

down its tree-lined length or spending hours at

the outdoor cafés.

However, the avenue is also famous for ano-

ther, important detail - it connects two of the

city's most important, modernist landmarks.

The avenue begins at the Sagrada Familia and

banner "a cathedral for the poor". Construction

began in 1883 based on a neo-gothic design by

the architect Francesc de Paula del Villar.

However, de Paula and the city government in

power did not see eye to eye, and the working

process was wrought with conflict. De Paula

finally gave up and resigned from the project.

This was when Antoni Gaudí first entered the

picture - in 1891 he took over the project and

substituted the original plan with a far moreambitious one.

The driving force behind the construction of

the Sagrada Familia, Josep María Bocabella,

wanted to build a cathedral that celebrated the

history and traditional values of the Catholic

faith. Gaudí was a deeply religious man and

therefore fit the role as the project's creative

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The museum exhibits many of the original

construction plans and an extensive collection

of graphic material relating to the cathedral's

design. As a finishing touch, you can climb one

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of the sun's rays down to the minutest detail. In

1903, he began work on the construction of the

four bell towers. According to his design, the

bell towers would sound whenever the organ,which was to be located inside one of the

towers, was played so that the entire city could

hear the sacred sounds. However, neither Gaudí

nor the people of Barcelona have ever heard the

bells of the Sagrada Familia chime.

After Gaudí's death, the Sagrada Familia was

an orphaned project, abandoned and incomple-

te. A number of architects have tried their hand

at finishing the monumental task over theyears. The current coordinator is Jordi Bonet,

and the direction the cathedral's construction

has taken under his leadership has provoked avar iety of different reactions amongst the cit-

y's population. Some stalwart supporters of

Gaudí's vision feel that the cathedral's appea-

rance is becoming too alienated from the archi-

tect's original design. Others, however, feel that

it is entirely normal and appropriate for the

plan to change and reflect different styles and

approaches because the project has already

been worked on by different generations of

architects.

One thing, however, hasn't changed about the

Sagrada Familia. The project is still supported

solely by means of private donations. If the

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the cathedral below and the city around it.

HOSPITAL DE SANT PAUThe Hospital de Sant Pau and the Palau de la

Música Catalana are the two defining achieve-

ments by one of Barcelona's most prolific,

modernist architects, Lluís Doménech iMontaner . The hospital is not only up and run-

ning, it is also one of the largest and most

important in the city - further proof that art and

functionality can exist side by side.

Plans for the hospital began in 1900 thanks to acharitable donation by the banker Pau Gil. He

provided financial backing to the tune of four

million pesetas (approximately 24,000 € today)

in order to build a state-of-the-art medical faci-

lity that would cover all of Barcelona's medical

needs. A competition was organised to find the

most appropriate and qualified architect for the

job, which promised to be no small task. The

hospital was originally supposed to have 48

pavilions of which only 27 were constructed in

the end.

Lluís Doménech i Montaner was chosen as the

architect, and he couldn't have imagined how

much of his life he would eventually dedicate

to this impressive complex. The construction

process commenced in 1901 and wouldn't

come to completion until 1930. Doménech i

Montaner collaborated with many other artistsand artisans during this long period, including

the sculptors Eusebi Arnau and Pau Gar gallo,

the painter Francesc Labarta and the metal-

worker Josep Perpinyà, who was famous for

his incredible iron craftsmanship. All of these

combined talents contributed to the astonishing

and ornate appearance of the hospital.

The hospital consists of different pavilions

separ ated by gardens and is considered one of



The places described below are not included in

any of the routes established by our guide book

but that doesn't take away from their importan-

ce. They are all relevant to the city and no trip

to Barcelona would be complete without a visitto these landmarks of historical, cultural or

natural significance.

PARK GÜELLPark Güell, the by now world famous Gaudí

construction, didn't really start out with any

particular artistic intention. Eusebi Güell, one

of Antoni Gaudí's patrons, commissioned the

architect to create a garden city - a complex

that was to include houses set into an urbanparkland.

The architect invested his entire creative genius

into the project. An old estate called Can

Muntaner de Dalt, also known by its nickname

and sculptural animals - the most famous of

which is the small, multi-coloured dragon,

covered entirely with an intricate mosaic,

which has become one of the most frequently

photographed pieces in the park.

When you reach the top of the stairway, you

step into a cool, covered hall. But the so-called

Hall of a Hundred Columns isn't an ordinary

hall - in fact, it is quite extraordinary. The space

is a forest made up of 84 Doric columns that

wind their way up from the ground to the cei-

ling. They hold up the terrace above - an enor-

mous balcony forged out of sinuous lines,

decorated with one continuous, meandering,mosaic bench. If you are a tad tired after the

walk up to the park, then this is the best spot for

a break - you can relax on the bench and admi-

re the absolutely stunning view onto the city.

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suring an impressive 33,000 square metres,

which is divided into different spaces. The per-

manent exhibition's organisation is based on

four types of matter - inert, alive, intelligent

and civilised matter- and tells the story of its

historical evolution, from the beginnings of the

turned it into one of the most fascinating urban

areas and an absolutely essential stop for anyo-

ne visiting Barcelona.

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universe all the way to modern day.

Two of the museum's most emblematic spacesare the Geological Wall and the Rain Forest.

The first environment allows visitors to inves-

tigate the geological make-up of the earth, whe-

reas the second is a replica of an authentic,

Amazonian rain forest - the first of its kind to

be recreated in a museum.

The CosmoCaixa also schedules a variety of

events in addition to its permanent and tempo-

rary exhibitions, such as lectures, courses, con-

ferences, sessions in the Planetarium and a

series of workshops designed to get childrenacquainted with and excited about science.

CosmoCaixa - Science MuseumTeodor Roviralta, 55

Tel. +34 93 212 60 50

www.fundacio.lacaixa.es

Timetable: Tuesday-Sunday, 10am-8pm.

Closed Mondays, except holidays. Also closed

on December 25th and January 1st.

Buses: 17, 22, 58, 60, 73, 85. The museum canalso be reached with the Ferrocarrils de la

Generalitat de Catalunya (FGC trains) and the

Tramvia Blau (a special tram operating in the

area).

National Theatre of Catalonia or TNC, a pro-

ject designed by the architect Ricard Bofill.

The theatre is a complex comprised of two

large buildings. The first one recalls the ancient

Greek Parthenon and contains two spaces - one

that can hold up to 900 people and another

smaller one with a maximum capacity of 300.

The two halls taken together measure 20,000

square metres and are held up by 26 columns.

The second building measures 5,000 square

metres and has a design that combines both tra-

ditional and modern elements. The first buil-

ding tends to be used for large-scale shows,

whereas the smaller one stages a wide variety

of performances.

The Auditori, another big draw for the neigh-

bourhood, consists of a modern building, mea-

suring more than 40,000 square metres in size

and designed by the architect Rafael Moneo.

Inaugurated in 1999, the building contrasts its

external modernity with a Symphonic Hall sea-

ting 2,200 people. A multi-purpose hall can be

arranged to hold 400 people, and plans are

underway for the creation of a Chamber Hallwith a seating capacity of 700. The most intri-

guing, architectural detail in the building is

located in the central atrium and consists of a

cubic lantern made out of glass, modelled on an

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the textiles have given way to hip, designer stu-

dios, such as that of top designer Javier

Mariscal, and groups organising a variety of

temporary exhibitions. Palo Alto, located on

Carrer Pellaires 38, is a place that exudes cultu-

cells and the refectory. The monastery also

owns an impressive collection of art, liturgical

objects and furniture that has been carefully

cared for and maintained by the monastic com-

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historical details that endow it with a unique

charm.

Perhaps inspired by the likes of Palo Alto, a

strong interest has surfaced in preserving the

architectural elements from the past. A new

interest in the industrial heritage has flourished,

placing demands for the preservation of its tra-

ces on par with those directed at perhaps more

traditional, cultural landmarks. The chimneys

of the Poble Nou, with their slim, red brick sil-

houette, have become almost iconic and arecelebrated as part of Barcelona's heritage. They

rise up along almost every street in the area,

and some stand out from amongst the rest. One

especially fine specimen once belonged to the

Can Saladrigas factory - the factory is long

gone, but the chimney remains and if you look

closely, you will notice a peculiar sun dial set

into its base.

The Poble Nou is also unique in its way of kee-

ping a village spirit alive while simultaneously

forming part of a large city. This becomes

immediately obvious when strolling down the

Rambla de Poble Nou, the neighbourhood's

main street. One of the most defining buildings

along this street is the Casino de l'Aliança. This

venue, built by Amadeu Llopart in 1929, was

one of the classic, central, gathering spots in

the area. Even today, locals still come togetherin the cosy theatre located inside the building.

An interesting anecdote about the place shows

how deeply ingrained and long-lasting an era's

prejudices can be - women were forbidden

from entering the Casino until 1974.

PEDRALBES MONASTERY MUSEUMThis museum actually forms part of the

Barcelona City History Museum, which inclu-des four, separate entities that focus on

moments from the city's fascinating, historical

past. Other museums that belong to this group

are the History Museum on Plaça del Rei, the

Casa Verdaguer Museum (dedicated to life and

Museu Monestir de Pedralbes (PedralbesMonastery Museum)

Baixada del Monestir, 9Tel. +34 93 203 92 82

www.museuhistoria.bcn.es

Timetable: Tuesday-Sunday and holidays,

10am-2pm. Closed Mondays.

Tickets: 4 €. Free admission every first Sunday

of the month

Bus: 75.

FGC train: Reina Elisenda

CAMP NOU AND THE F.C. BARCELONAMUSEUMThe Camp Nou is much more than a stadium

for many, especially the fans of the Barça team.

This Barcelona symbol was inaugurated on

September 24th (the day of Barcelona's patron

saint, the Virgin of the Mercé) in 1957. Despite

the passing years, the Camp Nou is still a proud

point of reference amongst Spanish stadiums.

The stadium received its name from the fact

that prior to its existence the team already trai-

ned and played matches in an earlier stadium,

appropriately named the Vell Camp (the old

camp in Catalan). When the team signed

Ladislao Kubala, the board decided that if it

was going to have star players, it would have to

have an equally stellar playing field.

This was the beginning of one of the most

ambitious stadium projects ever conceived;

even today the Camp Nou is the largest stadium

in Europe with a seating capacity for up to

98,000 spectators. Its spectacular dimensions

have made the Camp Nou more than just the

site of Barça team victories and defeats. The

stadium is often used for a variety of events,

such as the mega-concerts by music superstarslike Michael Jackson and Bruce Springsteen.

The FC Barcelona facilities also include the

Barça Museum, dedicated entirely to the his-

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Standing in the middle of Plaça Catalunya

places you at the true centre of Barcelona. Thesquare is the border between the new Barcelonato the north and the old city to the south andserves as the point of departure for importantstreets like the Passeig de Gràcia, the RamblaCatalunya and the Rambla. This is also one of the central stations for most underground lines,buses, trains, taxis and the airport bus - basi-cally, this is the square where the entire citycomes together, the square that connects all of the different sections and the place that servesas the best point of orientation for anyone newto the city.

Everyone living in the city has crossed thissquare an uncountable number of times

sense of bustling energy is complemented by

street musicians, usually African or Peruvian,performing spontaneous concerts. The musicoften draws a crowd and adds a cheerful, rela-xed touch to a square that could otherwise seema tad business-like and anonymous.

Before leaving Plaça Catalunya, you shoulddefinitely stop in at one of the city's legendarycafé terraces: Café Zurich. Finding a table out-side is often quite a challenge, especially in the

summer, but it is worth the wait. Once seated,you can enjoy a cup of coffee and simply watchthe city pass by in front of you. Observing thecoming and going of people is the best possibleway of getting a feel for the city's rhythm andthe diversity that characterises its population

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you will realise that these were once as impor-tant as petrol stations are today. Heading downPortaferrissa you come across more shops,catering to every imaginable clientele, fromchildren and teenagers all the way to fashiona-ble senior citizens. Scattered amongst the sto-

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Much like the Raval and the Born, this area isalso full of designer and craftwork shopsselling unique and delightful items. The streetsFerran and Avinyó are the best places to brow-se for gifts and indulge in some shopping.Check out La Manual Alpargatera (Avinyó, 5)f h D (A i ó 7) f d i i



res are a few, old palaces that have long sincelost their original purpose. One of these is the

Palau Palmerola, located at number 7, whichnow houses the El Bulli workshop. This iswhere Ferran Adrià, the internationally famousculinary genius, experiments with ingredientsand textures to come up with new creations toserve at his restaurant, El Bulli, in Roses(Girona).

If you want to escape the shopping madnessthat usually reigns on Portaferrissa, turn down

the little street Petritxol, which leads you toone of the neighbourhood's most charming and"sweetest" spots. This chocolate shop is theperfect place to stop for a traditional merienda(afternoon snack) with an assortment of sweets,buns, Swiss hot chocolate and a seemingly infi-nite variety of pastry. The street is also famousfor its many art galleries, antique stores andbookshops selling extremely rare and hard tofind editions.

This bohemian atmosphere carries through tothe Plaça del Pi, located at the end of CarrerPetritxol. This is one of Barcelona's smallestand most charming squares, named after thehundred-year-old pine tree standing at its cen-tre. The church along one side of the squarebears the same name and dates back to the 15thcentury. A square similar in design and atmos-

phere opens up just around the corner. Thissquare, named Sant J osep Or iol, is a popularsite for street musicians and performers, fortu-ne-tellers and painters. These two little squaresare therefore an enormous draw for tourists,which make them equally attractive to pick-pockets. Just be a little careful with your belon-gings, and you won't have any unfortunate sur-prises mar your enjoyment of the wonderfulcafé terraces and the vibrantly, artistic environ-

ment that characterise these lovely squares.

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for shoes, Dom (Avinyó, 7) for designer piecesand Loft Avignon (Avinyó, 22) for some truly

original, avant-garde fashion.

By now you are already on your way towardsthe Rambla. But before reaching the famouspromenade, you will cross one of the mostbeloved squares in the city - the Plaça Reial.The square has an elegant design, surroundedon all sides by Napoleonic arches. However,years of commercialisation have taken awaymuch of its charm, and the square is now

mostly frequented by tourists and the homeless.After nightfall, the square turns into one of theliveliest and busiest spots in the city. Glaciar isa popular place to meet for the evening's firstdrink. It might be crowded, but it is well worththe visit. After Glaciar you can continue yournight on the town at a variety of classic barslocated in the area. Other interesting establis-hments around the square are Sidecar, Tarantosand Jamboree, venues known for pop-rockmusic, flamenco and jazz respectively.



Catalonia as a whole and Barcelona in particu-

lar are characterised by a classic Mediterranean

landscape, marked by both coastal and moun-

tainous areas. In addition to all the cultural

attractions Barcelona offers as a city, the

surrounding areas are perfect destinations for a

variety of excursions that allow insight into

Catalonia's natural environment and cultural

traditions. We will take a look at three absolu-

tely essential destinations that are equally fasci-nating in both summer and winter. Some of

these excursions are day trips to places such as

Montserrat or Sitges. The Costa Brava, on the

other hand, should be given more time as this

charming and popular destination is rather vast

and includes many point of interest.

MONTSERRAT

The chances of finding a Catalan who has

never stepped foot onto Montserrat would be

more than strange and unusual. The unmistaka-

ble mountain with its mysterious, serrated ridge

is considered a unique geological formation

and is one of Catalonia's most interesting natu-

l i I ddi i i l b

fought for the rights that the citizens had lost

under the dictatorship.

Montserrat is also a place of grand and impres-

sive natural beauty. If you are a lover of outdo-

or sports, particularly hiking and rock clim-

bing, then this is a definite must on your holi-

day itinerary. The mountain has more than a

thousand peaks comprised of different

monoliths as well as a thoroughly unusuallandscape made up of rises and inclines, can-

yons and valleys which are connected by a

series of well-marked trails. Amongst the many

routes you can take, the most interesting is the

trail leading up to the Sant Jeroni peak, the

mountain's highest point. Here you can admire

some truly spectacular, panoramic views onto

the surrounding areas below.

Montserrat was declared a nature reserve in

1989. The mountain is easily reached from

Barcelona by car, train or bus. However, one of

the most rewarding, albeit physically deman-

ding, ways of getting to Montserrat is a traditio-

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boardwalks to be found along the Catalan coas-

tline. When organising your trip, try to keep the

lunch hour free so that you can stop in at one of

the restaurants along the boardwalk which are

known for their delicious rice dishes.

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one of the most famous seaside towns along the

coast. July brings a series of famous maritime

parades to the town, something that has already

turned into one of the biggest tourist draws in

the summer.

After passing Palafrugell a village located



COSTA BRAVA

The Costa Brava stretches from the southern

edge of the Girona province all the way to theFrench border. This beautiful coastal section is

one of the main tourist attractions in Catalonia.

In the summer the area's population triples in

number, not only due to visiting tourists but

also because the Costa Brava is a popular sum-

mer home for many Catalans. In addition to the

crowded, leisure spots along the coast, the

Costa Brava still maintains isolated, untouched

beaches, medieval towns and spectacular

masias (country estates). Describing the entireCosta Brava and its many villages, beaches and

vast cultural heritage in detail would demand a

complete guide book in itself. Therefore, we

have decided to mention just a few of its main

towns according to where they are located as

you head northward along the coast.

Blanes is the closest town to Barcelona. Here

you can find one of the longest beaches in the

Girona province and the Mar i Murtra botanical

garden. The latter is one of the most important

in Europe and is home to more than 7,000 plant

species. Lloret de Mar is the Costa Brava's

epicentre in terms of tourism. Although the

town has some historical sites, such as a Roman

tower, remnants of a castle and pretty chapels,

it derives its greatest fame from the popularity

of its nightlife with young party-goers. It is a

place where the festivities last long into thenight and most revellers don't go to bed until

dawn. Tossa de Mar is one of the most unique

spots along the Costa Brava. In terms of histo-

rical interest, it has an ancient city wall and a

museum, called the Vila Vella, which houses a

very interesting art collection. The village's

other claim to fame is that it was home to

actress Ava Gardner while shooting one of her

films and backdrop for her torrid romance with

bullfighter Mario Cabré. The romance came toan end when Ava's then-husband, Frank

Sinatra, travelled all the way to Tossa to break

up the affair and take the diva back home.

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After passing Palafrugell, a village located

inland, you reach Calella de Palafrugell,

Llafranc and Tamariu. These are three villa-ges that once formed the heart of the area's fis-

hing industry, which still maintain much of

their quaint charm despite the growing infras-

tructure demanded by the increase of tourism in

the area. All three villages are extremely popu-

lar summer destinations and usually attract a

large number of people who come here to

spend the season. Many consider Begur to be

something quite extraordinary, a place that

offers a contrast to many of the touristy townsthat line the coast. The castle overlooking the

town is still largely intact and hidden coves

such as Sa Tuna and Aiguablava are some of

the few untouched and pristine beaches left on

the Costa Brava.

The village of Pals is another must-see stop on

your coastal itinerary. It is considered a histori-

cal monument and many original structures

remain. The rest of the architecture has been

perfectly restored, and the village takes on a

special beauty at dusk when the streets are illu-

minated with torches, recalling the ambiance of

long gone eras. Heading inland, you find other

interesting spots such as La Bisbal

d'Empordà, famous for its ceramics produc-

tion, and Ullastret , a town where you can visit

a well-preserved ancient, Iberian settlement.

Making a u-turn back towards the coast, you

get to L'Estartit , famous for its beaches, which

form part of the nature reserve Illes Medes, a

paradise for all underwater adventurers. Upon

entering the Alt Empordà region, you should

definitely stop at the ancient Empúries terri-

tory, site of a Greco-roman settlement, which

has been perfectly preserved at its seafront

location. Although the majority of the original

pieces found at the site are now displayed at theBarcelona Archaeological Museum, you can

still visit the remnants of the ancient city wall,

a well, the agora and the forum at the actual

location.

PRACTI CAL PRACTI CA



A far cheaper option is the Aerobús (airportbus), which leaves the airport every 15 minutesand drops you off at Plaça Catalunya, right infront of the large Corte Inglés department store.A bus ride costs approximately 3 Euros (inclu-ding luggage) and takes about half an hour toreach its final destination. The buses run untilmidnight.

If you wish to avoid all chances of getting stuck

in traffic, then perhaps the train is the bestoption. The fare is a little more than one Euro,and the train stops at a number of stationsthroughout the city.

By TrainBarcelona has three main train stations: Sants,Estaçio de França and Plaça Catalunya. Sants isthe busiest of the three, and the main arrivaland departure point for international trains. The

Spanish railway company is called RENFE,and their website, www.renfe.es, provides dailytrain timetables and other useful information.Barcelona has two types of railway systems:Cercanías, which operates trains that connectBarcelona and its surrounding areas, and long-distance trains. The first type of train doesn'trequire a reservation. Tickets can be purchasedat the machines or booths located inside eachstation and timetables are posted in publicview. These trains connect Barcelona and thetowns and villages surrounding the city and area popular form of transport for people whocommute to work. During the summer months,the Cercanías trains are the most common wayof getting to the beach towns along theBarcelona coast, such as Masnou, Montgat,Alella, Vilassar and Mataró.

By BusThe city's main bus station is Estaçio del Nord,located close to the Arc de Triomf and theunderground station of the same name. Most of the bus lines that connect Barcelona with otherdestinations in Spain arrive and depart from

GETTING TO BARCELONA

Besides being the capital of Catalonia,Barcelona is also one of the most importantcities in Spain. Therefore, it is extremely well-connected to a wide variety of both nationaland international destinations. You can get herevia many different modes of transport, be it bysea, land or air.

By Air

Barcelona's international airport, El Prat, liesapproximately 12 kilometres southeast of thecity. The airport is currently being expanded tobetter meet the area's travelling needs. It is abusy hub with daily flights to many importantcities in Spain as well as throughout Europeand other continental areas. The airport is divi-ded into three terminals: A, B and C. Normally,Terminal A serves international flights,Terminal B serves national flights and Terminal

C serves the hourly shuttle that connectsMadrid and Barcelona. However, the expan-sion currently underway may cause changes tothe terminals' organisation. This sounds awhole lot worse than it actually is, because atthis airport getting a little lost is no cause foralarm. Unlike the sprawling structures in citiessuch as London or Frankfurt, El Prat is easilynavigated on foot, and the terminals are all wal-king distance from one another.

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ses buildings such as the Casa Batlló, CasaMilà and the Palau Robert, bus number 14starts out at the Vila Olímpica and ends inBonanova, one of the city's most elegant neigh-bourhoods, bus number 40 ends its trajectory inPort Vell and bus number 41 runs down theentire length of Avenida Diagonal, from Plaça

ages of 4 and 12) you can change routes asoften as you like and take as many buses as youwish. Tickets can be purchased at any touristinformation office (Tel. +34 932 853 832) orwhen boarding the bus.

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TaxiBarcelona taxis are yellow and black, and asmall, green light on the roof indicates whetherthey are free or not. Generally speaking, taxidrivers try to take the shortest route possible tocomplete a trip. Of course you can run intosituations, as happens in all major metropolitanareas, were a taxi driver takes advantage of the

fact that you are "new" in the city and tries toovercharge you - however, this is actually quiteunusual in Barcelona.

Taxis do apply additional charges for trips tothe airport, handling luggage and waiting forpassengers. Taxi fares don't start out at zero; aride always starts out from a set, base amountof 1.60 Euros (1.80 Euros if the ride takes placeat night). The only times that it might be

slightly difficult to find a taxi is during a holi-day or in very busy nightlife areas. To find aride, all you have to do is find a strategic cor-ner and flag down any taxi coming your way.Ferrocarrils de la Generalitat (FGC)

These trains are similar to the underground andregular trains (in fact, many of their stationscoincide), but their routes reach other, at times

somewhat more distant, destinations. Theirmain hub is the Catalunya station (right behindCafé Zurich at the top of the Rambla), whichalso serves lines 1 and 3 of the underground.The price of the ticket depends on the length of the trajectory. Trajectories within the city limitssuch as, for example, any destination betweenPlaça Catalunya and Tibidabo, have the samefare as the underground and the bus, and youcan use your T-10 for the trip.

Barcelona Sightseeing Bus (Bus Turístic)The Bus Turístic is a special bus, designed spe-cifically to meet the needs and interests of peo-ple visiting the city. It is a convertible, double-decker bus with three pre-established routes

aThe tram has a long-lasting, historical tradition

in Barcelona, much like it does in many otherEuropean cities (Barcelona has some infamousand tragic stories relating to this mode of trans-port - Gaudí died after being hit by a tram).During the second half of the 20th century,local authorities decided that the tram was anantiquated and uncomfortable form of transportand removed the tracks.However, times have changed and with themthe perception of the tram. Studies have shown

that it is a safe, fast and efficient form of trans-port, which offers greater mobility to peoplewith a physical handicap since trams can beboarded at street level. Barcelona reconsideredthe tram only recently when it offered a possi-bility to connect the city with a number of areasin the outskirts such as Esplugues, Cornellà,Sant Joan Despí and Sant Just Desvern.Although these areas don't lie very far outsidethe city, the public transport options connecting

them had always been poor and insufficient.The Forum 2004 event gave the plan a finalpush, and the new tram lines were inauguratedthat same year. Public opinion is split on thematter. Although many people agree that thetram has improved both the city's image as wellas its public transportation system, others con-sider it a flawed idea that does little more thaninterfere with traffic and cause accidents due to

improper traffic signals and street signs.Whatever the case may be, the tram does offeran alternative form of transport, especially if you are exploring the Forum area or the uppersection of Avenida Diagonal.

BicycleThe bicycle is an original, different, fun andecologically conscious method of exploring thecity. Barcelona might not be the biker's paradi-

se that Amsterdam is, but the city is well equip-ped with several bike paths around the city cen-tre as well as many other areas.Bicycles can be rented at places like Ciclobus(+34 93 853 832), Biciclot (+34 93 307 74 75)and several other similar establishments

ClimaBarcelked bybe milexcesshot, the

of transport; what it offers is simply the mostamazing way to see the city from up above. Thetrip starts out from the BCNSkytours heliport,located near Moll de Europa, and lasts 10minutes. The price tag is a tad steep, 70 Eurosper person, but it is definitely a one of a kindexperience.



to the amusement park situated on top of the

mountain. It only runs when the park is openand at the weekend. A bus covers the route onother days but it goes without saying that itpossesses a lot less charm.A one-way ticket costs 2 € and a round-trip tic-ket 2.90 €.

Montjuic FunicularThe funicular connects Parallel with theMontjuic cable car station in less than 2 minu-

tes. The funicular leaves from the Parallelunderground station (L2 and L3) and isamongst the most peculiar forms of transport -you almost feel like you are floating in thin air.The T-10 pass for the underground and bussystem is also valid for the funicular.

Transbordador aéreo (cable car)This odd little ride starts at the MontjuicMountain (specifically at the Costa i Lloberagardens), stops halfway through the trajectoryat the Jaume I Tower located next to the WorldTrade Centre and ends its journey at the SantSebastià Tower. The ride inside this cable carallows passengers to admire some of the bestpanoramic views onto the city.A one-way, adult ticket costs 7.50 €. Round-tripticket is 9 €.

GolondrinasThese typical, traditional boats can take youfrom the Columbus Monument at the port tothe l'Escullera area.The trip takes about 35 minutes and is mainlydesigned for tourists or locals who are looking

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The flight begins over Port Vell (Old Port) andthe Olympic Port and then heads over to theForum grounds. The helicopter swoops aroundand flies further into the city, passing the AgbarTower and Plaça Glòries and heading up to theSagrada Familia. Other spots that will surelydelight you are the Eixample with its classicgrid-like structure, Park Güell and the CampNou. Finally, the helicopter comes around andfinishes the flight over the Anella Olímpica and

its landmarks: Palau de Sant Jordi, the OlympicStadium and the Calatrava Tower.

USEFUL ADVICE

Required DocumentationThe type of identity document you need toenter Barcelona and Spain depends on whichcountry you are coming from. Spain is one of the fifteen countries that signed the Schengen

Agreement, which means that a visa isn't requi-red to enter the country. The other countriesincluded under the Schengen Agreement arethe countries of the European Union (exceptthe United Kingdom, Ireland, Slovakia,Estonia, Hungary, Latonia, Lithuania, Malta,Poland, the Czech Republic and Cyprus) andNorway and Iceland.

Citizens of the European Union only need anofficial, national identity document to enter thecountry. Citizens of the United Kingdom,Canada, Ireland, Japan, New Zealand,Switzerland, Australia, Israel and the USA mayspend up to 90 days within the Schengen regionas tourists without a visa. Travellers from allother countries planning to visit Spain shouldconsult their local Spanish consulate orembassy to find out what documentation they

will need for their trip.

CurrencyThe official, Spanish currency is the euro.Money can he changed at banks, savings banksand currency exchange bureaus Banks are

gins, was already a clearly defined languagethat distinguished itself from Latin.

Barcelona was a strong influence in the langua-ge's preservation and formalisation.Generations of Barcelona counts ruled theregion for long periods of time and cultivated

Due to their excellent proximity to the city'sfinancial centres, Passeig de Gràcia, PlaçaCatalunya, the upper section of AvenidaDiagonal and Plaça Urquinaona are the bestchoices for anyone on a business trip. The lastyear has also witnessed the opening of manynew hotels, usually belonging to large, interna-

accommake aestablifacilitioffer gprices.



the language's development. Many judicial,

economic, religious and historical texts writtenin the language over the centuries have beenpreserved.

When Catalonia was defeated in the 1714 Warof Succession, the Catalan language sufferedthrough long periods of prohibition and repres-sion. It wasn't until after the FrancoDictatorship that the language once again enjo-yed freedom of expression, aided by the statu-

tes of autonomy granted not only to Cataloniabut also the Balearic Islands and the ValencianCommunity.

Nowadays Catalan, along with Castilian, is theofficial language of Catalonia. The language isalso spoken in the Valencian Community(although there it is known as "Valenciano"), inthe Balearic Islands, the French province of theeastern Pyrenees (a region that once formed

part of Catalonia) and even in some places inSardinia (Italy).

The Barcelona Car dLike many other European cities, Barcelonaalso offers a special card that provides visitorswith significant discounts. Cards can be acqui-red for a period of 1 to 5 days (the price varies

accordingly: 17€ for a one-day card and 30€ fora five-day card). The card provides you withfree use of public transport within the city aswell as discounts and free entry to some of thecity's museums. Please call the following num-ber for more information about this service:+34 932 853 832.

WHERE TO STAY IN BARCELONA

Barcelona embraces diversity. It is the kind of city where you can find a great place to staywhether you are travelling deluxe-style or on ashoe-string. Accommodations come in all sha-pes and sizes, fitting just about any budget, pre-ference and situation

tional chains and designed to accommodate

congresses and conventions, in the areasurrounding the Forum grounds. These hotelsmight not be centrally located, but they are wellconnected via public transport and have facili-ties that are equipped to meet all the needs of acompany event.

The aforementioned hotels are perfectly appro-priate for business trips, but Barcelona offers afar wider array of accommodations. For exam-

ple, couples might opt for more intimate, char-ming hotels or small apartments that allow formore privacy. The latter option is also well sui-ted to the needs of friends travelling in a groupor families. Apartments have more space andprovide the option of cooking at home - some-thing that also saves you a lot of money if youare planning a lengthy stay in the city. You canfind a complete and detailed listing of apart-ments and hotels, classified by area and cate-

gory, at www.bcninternet.com.

Another important thing to consider when boo-king an accommodation is how it ranks inBarcelona's classification system. Specificnames and categories apply to the differenttypes of establishments; the following descrip-tions range from the most basic to the mostupscale type of accommodation. Albergues

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rious spot to relax and enjoy a lovely view ontoPasseig de Gràcia, especially beautiful at nightwhen it is illuminated by its famous, moderniststreetlamps. It goes without saying that thehotel has a private parking garage for guests sothat all the luxury cars have an accommodationas safe and comfortable as their owners.

If the topic is hip hotels, then the Hotel CasaCamper cannot go without mention. The brandoriginally specialised in shoes aimed, specifi-

cally, at a young and thirty-something clientelethat places a high premium on originality. NowCamper has inaugurated its very own hotel, afour-star establishment located inside a 19thcentury building in the Raval. The hotel has 25rooms and was created in collaboration withFernando Amat. Amat is the brains behind theVinçon store - a Mecca for anyone who wors-hips the art of design.

The Casa Camper is different, original, practi-cal and simple without being plain. It is the per-fect place for anyone who values naturalsurroundings and social commitment. Camperlacks pretence and places great importance onrehabilitating old buildings rather than buildingnew ones. Its minimalist design somehowmanages to be modern without falling into anyof the trendy traps in terms of decor.

Still staying in luxury mode but shifting gears,we get to the only 5-star, deluxe Grand Hotel inall of Spain - the Casa Fuster. Located at theend of Passeig de Gràcia, just where it mergeswith the Gran de Gràcia street, the hotel takes

However, many people prefer moderation tolavish luxury. Often, the best deals lie some-where between deluxe hotels and low-endguesthouses. If this is more your style, thencheck into the Gat Raval, immersed in the cit-y's historical centre, right next door to theMACBA museum on Joaquín Costa Street.This hotel belongs to a class known as "charterhotels" - a no frills accommodation with allmod-cons and a designer touch. The 24 rooms

are all pristine, functional and very cool - asdemanded by its location in the Raval and thetype of clientele the neighbourhood attracts.The most you will ever pay is 67 € a night,which is the price of a double room with bathduring the high season. And you get more foryour money than just a room - the price alsoincludes internet service, free tea and coffee,TV in your room and a lovely view onto theMACBA. The Gat Raval offers guests afforda-

ble luxury, well below the 300 € a night char-ged at the previously mentioned hotels. It goeswithout saying that the ambiance in each of these hotels is radically different, each one hascarved out a niche for itself that sets it apartfrom other accommodations. However, it isprecisely this diversity that makes Barcelona atruly great city - it has something for everyone.

WHERE TO EAT IN BARCELONA

Barcelona is well known for having a strong,multicultural character, something that isreflected in the city's many restaurants. Thisvast culinary diversity gives you a wonderful

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Pakistani restaurant to open in Barcelona andstill ranks amongst the best. Finding it is easy -simply follow the irresistible smell of curry thatwafts out of the restaurant and fills the street.The restaurant eschews the regional flavourthat characterises many restaurants of its kindand instead opts to serve specialities from

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namedcano).

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Pakistani, Egyptian etc. restaurants that openup a whole new world of flavours.

Meals tend to be long, drawn-out affairs, espe-cially in the evenings. Dessert is traditionallyfollowed by coffee - typically a shot of espres-so or a "cortado" (coffee with a little dash of

ilk) Oth f t l th di i



every corner of the country such as nan(Pakistani flatbread straight from the oven),tandoori chicken, samosas and other typical,filled pastries. The restaurant is also one of thefew places to enjoy a refreshing Cobra Beer, anIndian classic that is hard to come by. The res-taurant's reasonable prices suit every kind of budget and range from approximately 6 € to 10 €.

Other international restaurants in the area

include Govinda (Plaça Vila de Madrid, 4-5),one of the most celebrated Indian restaurants inBarcelona (clients should note that they don'tserve any alcohol); the Jinnah Continental(Ample, 46), serving both Indian and Pakistanispecialities; the Oolong (Gignàs, 25), an inte-resting fusion between Asian and Americancuisine; Shunka (Sagristans, 5), a very goodJapanese restaurant, which serves more than

the ubiquitous sushi and prepares excellent sas-himi (finely sliced raw fish), udon (a typicalnoodle dish) and miso soup with dried tuna and

seaweed.

If you happen to wander across the Plaça Reialand see a lengthy cue outside a restaurant, youcan safely assume that you have found LesQuinze Nits This is one of the city's absolute

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milk). Others prefer to close the dining expe-rience with an herbal tea. Unlike many otherEuropean cities, Barcelona is smoker friendlyand most restaurants, with the exception of afew vegetarian places or places with signs indi-cating the contrary, permit smoking. As far astipping is concerned, it is greatly appreciatedsince the final price doesn't include a gratuity.The amount of the tip is entirely up to you andhow you feel about the quality of the food andthe service received.

Having answered these simple questions, thenext decision centres on what you're lookingfor in a meal: a mere hunger quencher or a trulydelicious dining experience. This, of course,depends on individual preference and budget,but regardless of the situation, it is always goodto leave the house with a few useful tips inhand.

Gothic quarter and surrounding areasIf you are looking for a place to have lunch or

dinner but aren't sure of exactly what kind of restaurant you fancy then the Gothic Quarter isprobably your best destination. This is the heartof the city, which has an endless selection of restaurants to choose from including vegetarianfare fast food joints some of the city's oldest

nions such as romantic, group or business din-ners and lunches.

EixampleThis area is home to a great variety of restau-rants but more often than not price exceedsquality in these parts. Amongst the prestigiousand first class restaurants you can potentially

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and first-class restaurants you can potentiallyencounter a few where the quality doesn't mea-sure up to the prices. You can also find justabout any kind of fast food here, from the typi-cal chains such as Burger King, McDonaldsand KFC to more home-grown versions such asPans & Company and Bocatta (sandwiches),Pastafiore (pizzas) or FresCo and Lactuca (all-you-can-eat vegetarian and salad bars).

If all you are looking for is a quick bite on the

go, then the aforementioned restaurants willsuffice. However, if you would like to enjoy agood, sit-down meal, be it for business or plea-sure, then the following options will definitelytickle your palate. Il Comendattore (Comted'Urgell, 247) stands out amongst the city'sItalian restaurants, both for the food as well asthe decor, which emulates a classic Italian look.Another international option is Dionisos(Comte d'Urgell, 90), one of the most famous

Greek restaurants in Barcelona.

There is no shortage of traditional restaurantseither such as, for example, the Mesón CincoJotas at Rambla de Catalunya, 91. As the nameimplies, the speciality here is "jamón serrano"(cured ham), and the owners claim that theirssurpasses all others in terms of quality. This isdifficult to prove without having tasted thecompetition, but one thing is certain - theirCatalan-style bruchettas (toasted bread) withtomato and ham are absolutely delicious. Theirprices are somewhat more expensive comparedto other establishments of its kind, but theexceptional quality more than makes up for it.

The Eixample is also a night-life favouriteamongst the local gay population and offers awide selection of bars, clubs and restaurants.

The Miranda ranks amongst the most originalin this genre, a restaurant with live performan-ces that later on transforms into a cocktail bar.Located on Casanova 30, the Miranda's decoris straight out of a Pedro Almodóvar film, anddinner is accompanied by spectacular drag

right around the corner from MACBA. This isa lively spot, perfect for groups, at which you

can sample a variety of salads and appetisersalong with some excellent wine at very reaso-nable prices. If you are looking for a designertouch, it can be found at Lupino (Carme, 33), afavourite amongst thirty-something intellec-tuals who don't mind paying a little more for ameal if it means a quiet, relaxing and sophisti-cated atmosphere. Salsitas is another classicspot - and one of the first to put the idea of

having a space serve both as restaurant andclub into practice.

Another almost obligatory stop is the CasaLeopoldo, located on Sant Rafael, 24. The dis-hes alone are worth the visit - generous por-tions of first-class fish and seafood. But thisrestaurant offers more than simply great food -most locals consider it one of the city's land-marks. The restaurant was immortalised by

Manuel Vázquez Montalbán in his detectivenovels, where it often served as a hang-out forthe main character, Pepe Carvalho.

The Born is probably the neighbourhood tohave witnessed the greatest degree of change interms of leisure and entertainment. Nowadays,no one can claim to be hip unless they can men-tion at least three restaurants and three storeslocated in the Born. The selection is so vast that

this might seem like an easy task. However, itis easy to get overwhelmed by the quantity of options. Therefore, it helps to head out with afew recommendations.

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BARCELONAAT NIGHT

Barcelona is well-known for having a veryvaried and vibrant nightlife. There is somethingto satisfy every preference amidst the see-mingly endless options. Traditionally, peopleused to head out for a night on the townTh d h h S d H i

Here you can enjoy a few drinks and danceuntil dawn to just about any kind of music, beit Spanish pop, house, techno, disco or salsa.The only thing that matters here is getting outonto the dance floor.

Gràcia is definitely one of the most uniqueareas - and one of the most diverse when it



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Thursday through Saturday. However, times

are changing and many of the bars and clubsare now open every night of the week - andusually catering to an enthusiastic clientele.

The city has made an active effort to providepublic transport to late night revellers, both as apublic service and to reduce the dangers of drunk driving. All public transport runs untilmidnight, Sunday through Thursday, and until2am on Fridays and Saturdays. The first, regu-

lar schedule trains and buses start at 5am,Monday through Friday, and at 6am onSaturdays, Sundays and holidays. Night busesfill the empty hours and cover many of themajor routes throughout the city. Therefore,getting home doesn't depend on transportoptions but rather on how long you can stayawake and keep up with the party.

Before plunging into the night, take a minute todecide what kind of ambiance you are in themood for. Barcelona's nightlife is extremelydiverse, and many areas place particularemphasis on one kind of nocturnal fun. TheEixample, for example, is home to a greatmany bars and dance clubs frequented by thelocal gay and lesbian community (please seethe chapter dedicated to this subject). The sceneis very open-minded and tolerant; therefore, if

you are looking for a fun, outrageous time, freeof prejudice and judgement, keep a night openfor the Eixample regardless of your sexualorientation.

Maremagnum in the Por t Vell might be a shop-ping centre by day, but at night it transformsinto something a little spicier. The countlesscocktail bars contain more than a few hotbedsof salsa music, where the dancers move with

such expertise that they might be mistaken forprofessionals. If this strikes you as somewhatintimidating or you prefer to move to a diffe-rent beat, head further down the seafront to theOlympic Port. After a meal at one of the res-t t l ki t t th f d k d

areas and one of the most diverse when itcomes to the topic of nightlife. Some peopleprefer to pass their nights traditionally, sittingin one of the many squares, on a terrace, enjo-ying good drinks and conversation. Others lookfor a livelier, louder way to spend the night andhead to one of the nightclubs, such as El Sol,located, appropriately enough, on Plaça delSol. Much of this nocturnal fun seems morelike a curse to people living in the area, andGràcia has seen many neighbourhood protests

against the levels of night time noise. However,if people out and about show the residentssome respect there is no reason why one perso-n's nocturnal fun should interfere with anothe-r's comfort and well-being. Therefore, comingto an agreement between both parties shouldn'tbe too difficult to achieve.

The Born and the Raval are home to a varietyof venues, most of them of a rather hip and cut-

ting-edge variety. The Gothic Quarter is stillone of the most popular destinations for touristsand locals alike. In addition to your run-of-the-mill bars, you can dance the night away at pla-ces like El Salsitas, on Nou de la Rambla, orlisten to jazz at Jamboree, on Plaça Reial. Onenote of caution: the area's popularity amongsttourists has made it equally popular with pick-pockets and bag-snatchers. Therefore, it is agood idea to tuck your wallet in a safe placeand keep an eye on your belongings to avoidany nasty surprises. Other than that, the areaserves up the most authentic nightlife inBarcelona, and the opportunity to really diveinto the multicultural character that has come todefine the city.

Barcelona's "posh" stalwart is still the areasurrounding the Tibidabo Mountain, where

places such as Mirablau, a classic discothequewith an outdoor terrace, and Danzatoria, anabsolute must for those with a predilection forall that is chic, reign the night. Another fancystretch lies between the streets Marià Cubí andDiagonal The bars and clubs along here tend to

ver production strikes your fancy. Cinema inBarcelona falls into a similar category. Foreignfilms tend to reach Barcelona screens a littlelater than in their home country, but many of the big blockbusters open around the same timeas elsewhere around Europe and the UnitedStates. You can also take advantage of being inSpain and delving into the world of local cine-

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ding area.

Dietrich. Marlene Dietrich, one of the great,mythical gay icons, is this venue's namesake.Complete with resident drag queens, the placeis lathered in photographs of the screen god-dess and marked by an ambiance that recalls anold-fashioned dancehall. This is a wonderfulplace for cocktails, which promises to serve upone of the greatest nights out to be found in thegay scene. The venue also hosts special nights,such as "Hot Wednesdays", which give anyonewho can't wait for Friday the perfect excuse tohead out at night.Consell de Cent, 255Underground: Universitat (L1 and L2)

Átame. A popular hang-out, great for enjoyinga cocktail and house beats in the evenings or acoffee and some of the Spanish pop-hits in theafternoons. The dance floor isn't really the main

attraction since the space is quite small - butthat doesn't stop anyone from having a goodtime. People who love to dance can do so totheir heart's desire, and people of a more seden-tary persuasion can observe the entire clubscene from the bar. The weekends usually drawthe biggest crowds, but Tuesdays are also agood night to pop in since you can get twococktails for the price of one from 6pm until10pm.

Consell de Cent, 257Underground: Universitat (L1 and L2)

Aire BCN. Sala Diana. This is a favouriteamongst lesbians, a place that grooves to the

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Spain and delving into the world of local cinema. Spanish cinema has gained quite a growingreputation in recent years thanks to the work of iconic director Pedro Almodóvar and the recentAcademy-Award winner Alejandro Amenábar,director of the acclaimed film "Mar Adentro".If Spanish isn't your forte, don't worry. The cityhas plenty of cinemas that screen films in origi-nal version with subtitles in Spanish; check lis-tings at cinemas like the Verdi, located in themiddle of the Gràcia neighbourhood, or the

Icària Multiplex in the Olympic Port.

The " Gaixample"The Barcelona nightlife options are so variedthat no one will be heading home disappointed.The city has plenty of mainstream venues,alternative spots, bars aimed to please the veryyoung, dancehalls for those who already havedecades of nocturnal fun under their belt and agay district that has become an important and

frequently emulated point of reference throug-hout Spain.

The Eixample has always been home to manyhistoric gay clubs but recent years have witnes-sed an explosion in the number of establis-hments- so much so, in fact, that the area isnow referred to as "Gaixample". There is evena hotel, the recently-inaugurated Axel, whichcaters specifically to a gay clientele.

The number of options is so great that choosinga good spot for a night out in the "Gaixample"can turn into quite a challenge. Therefore, hereis a list of five classic venues that shouldn't bemissed.

Arena Vip. The Arena Disco group operatessix venues throughout the city of which the

Arena Vip is the most emblematic. The clubtakes up a large space, divided into two rooms,one spinning house and techno, the other hos-ting the beats of Rafaela Carrá and CamiloSesto. This spot is guaranteed to deliver a great,fun night out - not only for the gay clientele but

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Heading towards the Gothic Quarter, you willrun into the Portal de l'Àngel and Portaferrissa.These are two of the city's busiest shoppingstreets, lined with all kinds of shops, the majo-rity of which specialise in clothing and acces-sories. The narrow, winding streets leading tothe cathedral are home to a more alternativevariety of stores, such as silversmiths, vintage

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y gclothing shops, art galleries and antique shops.The Gothic Quarter and the Born have seen anenormous boom in their shopping sector overthe course of the last few years. This periodmarked the closure of many old, traditional sto-res, which were quickly replaced by designershops that saw these classic, historical surroun-dings as an excellent contrast to their modernstyles. The area that was once known purely forits history has transformed into one of the hip-

pest and classiest neighbourhoods, home tobrands such as Custo Barcelona, La Comercial,Giménez Zuazo, Carhartt, Pura Vida, Outside,etc. Bear in mind that these shops are quite pri-cey, but they are worth a peek even if you don'tintend to shop. A stroll through their aisles is agreat way of getting acquainted with the latestfashion trends emerging in Barcelona. TheRambla has largely ceded to the invasion of allthings tourism and is, with the exception of a

few, individual stores, dominated by souvenirshops. Here you can pick up Mexican hats, fla-menco dolls and bulls complete with tiny flags,all souvenirs that have long perplexed Catalanssince they have absolutely nothing to do withtheir culture. However, the fact that they havebeen around for a very long time seems to indi-cate that they are a lucrative business.

The Raval is the obligatory shopping districtfor anyone remotely hip. Designer shops havecropped up amidst the traditional, neighbour-hood stores and diverse, international restau-rants. These shops tend to sell brands that areonly known to a niche clientele or people whoare on the absolute cutting-edge of fashion. Theclassic, big-name fashion houses such asCarolina Herrera, Salvador Ferragamo, Loewe,Cartier, Chanel, etc. still prefer the luxurious

elegance of the Passeig de Gràcia, RamblaCatalunya and Diagonal (specifically the sec-tion stretching from Passeig de Gràcia to thePlaça Francesc Macià). Fashion connoisseurscan also indulge in famous Spanish designerssuch as Antonio Miró Adolfo Domínguez

end of the spectrum are the people who preferto play the odds and wait until the very lastminute in order to pay the lowest prices. Andthis difference is not too shabby - oftentimesthe final discount is 40% less than the initial

price reduction.

If you prefer functional shopping over leisurelybrowsing, then you can always stop in at one of the city's shopping centres. They definitely lackthe charm of the shopping streets but make upfor it by being extremely practical. The shop-ping centres, much like large shops throughoutthe city, accept credit cards. Barcelona is hometo several shopping centres, including

Barcelona Gloríes, next to the new AgbarTower, Maremagnum in Port Vell, DiagonalMar next to the new Forum area, BulevardRosa, with entrances on Passeig de Gràcia andRambla Catalunya, Pedralbes Centre onAvenida Diagonal past Plaça Francesc Macià,L'Illa Diagonal close to the Maria Cristinaunderground station and La Maquinista, the cit-y's largest shopping centre, located in the SantAndreu neighbourhood. Whatever it is that you

are looking to purchase, you are more thanlikely to find it at one of these centres.However, if you choose to venture into the cen-tres at the weekend or during sales, come pre-pared with lots of patience and expect to be

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