G R A D U A T E B O O K – V O L 3

DESIGNSSTUDENT

2018

he fashion industry has undergone profound upheavals over the past 10 years and must face sometimes contradictory transformations: the growth of e-commerce,

the importance of social networks that are profoundly changing the ways fashion brands sell and communicate, the hyper-growth of luxury brands, the acceleration of the pace of collections, overproduction and at the same time decline of consumption in mature markets, consumer demand for transparency and sustainability, development of vintage fashion...

Nevertheless, at the beginning of all this, remains the fashion product, which is constantly being renewed, must create desire while resonating with the mood of the times.

This is why fashion design education, which also means technical knowledges of garments and fashion accessories construction and production, remains a crucial issue for the fashion industry and therefore for fashion schools. The strategic importance of the choice of Art Directors of the major luxury and premium brands is an illustration of this.

At IFA Paris, we are fortunate to welcome talented students from all over the world, with very different cultural backgrounds, who come to seek France’s particular know-how in fashion education but in return offer us a global but complex vision of the relationship to fashion of this new generation, globalized but not standardized.

We wanted to share with you the work of a selection of these upcoming designers, from our three year Bachelors course in Fashion Design & Technology. We hope you will appreciate their creative endeavors as much as we do – they represent years of study, research and experimentation! We hope that this will give a small insight into the creative minds of a new generation, and perhaps ignite a curiosity to discover more…

At IFA Paris we love their talent!

Jean-Marc ChauveFashion & Image Director

T

Amira Binti Aziziamxiraazizi@gmail.com • instagram : @amxira

4 5

SAMO is reborn; Inspired by both artist, Jean-Michel Basquiat and the milanese youth cult, Paninaro, the collection explores the idea of blending design, history and art to create a new look.It is after the second war and the Italians had spent most of the preceding decade living in a crisis-ridden country, dealing with domestic left and right-wing terrorists who liked to blow each other and various political and business figures up. It was the hardships after the war that birth the Italian youth cult Paninaro. The Paninaris, they just wanted to have fun, embrace all things American, wear designer labels, and listen to British synth-pop. These wealthy and fashion obsessed youngsters use sartorial vigour to display their social standing. Their catwalk was not the high-end landing strip of a glinted warehouse during fashion week however; it was the sandwich bars of Milan’s city centre, specifically Al Paninos in the Via Agnello district of Milan.The original fundament of Paninaro fashion were Timberland boots, Levi’s 501 jeans, and bomber jackets. Later, they added Sebago deck shoes or Vans, Burlington socks, Armani jeans, Americanino or Rifle corduroy pants, all hemmed to ankle height, El Charro belts with Texan or western-style big buckles, By American and Best Company sweatshirts, Schott flyer’s leather jackets, Moncler down jackets, and brightly colored Invicta rucksacks.

real

ised

look

s

Paninaro

".. the paninari donned their own status symbols and they were brightly

coloured, heavily branded, and thrown together in a very Italian fashion."

PaninaroIt is after the second war and the Italians had spent most of the preceding decade living in a crisis-ridden country, dealing with domestic left and right-wing ter-rorists who liked to blow each other and various polit-ical and business figures up. It was the hardships af-ter the war that birth the Italian youth cult Paninaro.

The Paninaris, they just wanted to have fun, embrace all things American, wear designer labels, and listen to British synth-pop. These wealthy and fashion obsessed youngsters use sartorial vigour to display their social standing. Their catwalk was not the high-end landing strip of a glinted warehouse during fashion week howev-er; it was the sandwich bars of Milan’s city centre, spe-cifically Al Paninos in the Via Agnello district of Milan.

The original fundament of Paninaro fashion were Timber-land boots, Levi’s 501 jeans, and bomber jackets. Later, they added Sebago deck shoes or Vans, Burlington socks, Armani jeans, Americanino or Rifle corduroy pants, all hemmed to ankle height, El Charro belts with Texan or western-style big buckles, By American and Best Com-pany sweatshirts, Schott flyer’s leather jackets, Moncler down jackets, and brightly colored Invicta rucksacks.

Basquiat was an American artist who first started as an informal grafitti duo, under the tag name of SAMO; where he transformed his own observations into pithy text messages inscribed on the buildings of the urban environment.

The duo later broke up and the SAMO project

ended with the epitaph “SAMO is dead“ in-

scribed on the walls of Soho buildings in 1979.

Basquiat’s work is known for its primitivist

motives, combining anatomical diagrams,

commercial art, Black pop cultural his-

tory and figures, charged phrases and

words, and representations of the

body in an emotional and psy-

chologically explosive admixture.

Duality is the contrast between two concepts

or two aspects of something. In Basqui-

ats work, like this ‘SIX CRIME’ for example,

Basquiat pairs individuals and objects in

ambiguous relationships to evoke tension

and challenge perceptions. For the artist,

however, the notion of duality was com-

plex, related not just to his own identity but

also to social systems of wealth and class.

In these works, Basquiat recasts ideas of black

and white, dark and light, questioning conven-

tions and defying perceptions of good and evil.

Aweriawhen Umuomoaweriawhen@yahoo.com

6 7

RE” the game changer. The addition of “RE” to a word means to go back to whatever follows, to make better or to improve it. RE-work,

RE-turn, RE-do, RE-fashion, RE-structure... So in this vain, the theme The theme RE- Street,

RE-naissance means to go back to the street, to go back to birth. Slowly and gradually, we moved from a society with three classes

(The upper, middle and lower class) to two classes THE GOVERNMENT and THE

STREET. It’s difficult to tell how this change occured

but slowly all Nigerians seem to really associate with the powerlesness of that street kid no matter the level of education and finances at your disposal. The challenges are shared by all. The lack of power supply, increased traffic, the lack of constant power

supply, the oppression from the police force the

unavailabilty of FOREX for those who can afford it, increase in fuel prices,

killing of christains in northern Nigeria, Freedom of speech being

gradually shut down...AGGRESSION

Slowly and gradually, we moved from a society with three classes (The upper, middle and lower class) to two classesTHE GOV-ERNMENT and THE STREET. Its difficult to tell how this change occured but slowly all Nigerians seem to really associate with the powerlesness of that street kid no matter the level of education and finances at your disposal. The challenges are shared by all. The lack of power supply, increased traffic, the lack of constant power supply, the oppression from the police force the unavailabilty of FOREX for those who can afford it, increase in fuel prices, killing of christains in northern Nigeria, Freedom of speech being gradu-ally shut down...

WE aRE “thE stREEt”

As part of my research I began to look for new volume from things that were bound, wraped or constricted.

Here I am fascinated by the imbalance of volume. The heavy volume borne by such a fragile figure. Fluidity and structure in such perfect balance.

VOLUME RESEARCH AND

DEVELOPMENT

Cheng Hong Engrotijohn@live.com.my

8 9

Childhood impressions are full of always listening to adults telling stories about their youth Parents in the 1970’s and 1980’s lived in a thrifty and fulfilling life, and _today’s children are just the opposite. Tracing their parents’ past, they will be satisfied of what they have and how colorful they are while in the memories of their parents’ teen ages.

-1986them we

conservative

thrifty

simple

innovation

radical

high-speed

we are young

p5

MOOD PAGEMOOD PAGEevolution

inheritance

treasure

p7

trying to keep passion and love in fashion

getting the shopping

done in paris

p11

Chew Ting Lauchiewting1996@gmail.com

10 11

The collection, entitled « Mask On » is inspired by the nature of humanity, the creation of

pretentious character and the protecting nature of military service, i’ve used the elements of camoflage,

masks, army uniforms as my primary silhouette and colour concept to

bring out the idea of human trying to create a pretentious personality to be able to blend themselves into the society and environment, at the same time to protect the true and innocent behavior in our

hearts.

Re - Repeat Naissance - Born Street - Street Style

Re-naissance - rebirth , cycle of life , growth

Re-street - recover , repeat , rearrange

BORN - human nature is good

STREET -STYLE - street style design

growth - human changed in their growing process

recover - human recover themselves to avoid showing their weakness to others

Dziedzorm Adjeiqwasigrillz90@gmail.com

12 13

My concept and story is very much personal and relatable. From a country where slavery has been part of our history, i find this topic a rather unforgiven “go back to” story of sensitivity. In as much as i feel sad about the sufferings of our forefathers it saddens me more to realise that slavery started from within our own people through betrayal, dominance and greed. This means even before the western dominance of power, the weaker majority of Africans suffered series of torture from their own leaders by submitting to dictatorship rule. The story of the Anlo traditional people from Ghana is a typical example of “internal slavery”. The sufferings from a certain cruel “King Agorkoli”.“Torgbui Agorkoli” was a ruler of Notsie, a town in southeast Togo. During his rule, the Ewes of Ghana escaped from Notsie to their present land.[1] He ruled the Ewes with an iron fist and had any person who spoke against him put on trial and inevitably found guilty, which meant a death sentence. When the Ewe people decided they did not want to suffer under his rule, they sought a very famous and powerful hunter known as “Torgbui Tsall”. Tsali agreed to hear their pleas. During a festive holiday, it is said that he enchanted the drums to put all the royals and Torgbui Agorkoli to sleep. He then mobilized the citizens to pass through a crevice made in a thick mud wall, resulting in the Ewe people’s freedom from Notsie. While escaping, Tsali convinced the citizens to walk backwards, confusing their pursuers.

“A strong movement emerged in the 18th-century Britain to put an end to the buying and selling of human beings. This campaign to abolish the slave trade developed alongside international events such as the French Revolution, as well as retaliation by maroon communities, sporadic unrest, and individual and individual acts of resistance from enslaved people in the British colonies.

American president Abraham Lincoln approved the joint Resolution of congress submitting the proposed 13th amendment, which formally abolished slavery in the United States around February 1, 1865.

FREEDOM

KINGDOM

MODERNITY

THE NEW ERA

SLAVERY

OPPRESSIO

N

POWER

DARKNESS

AUTH

ORITY

14-0002 TPXPumice stone

14-0002 TPGStorm Front

19-1101 TPXAfter Dark

16-0954 TPXArrowwood

18-1555 TPXMolten Lava

11-0701 TPXWhisper White

FREEDOM

KINGDOM

MODERNITY

THE NEW ERA

SLAVERY

OPPRESSIO

N

POWER

DARKNESS

AUTH

ORITY

14-0002 TPXPumice stone

14-0002 TPGStorm Front

19-1101 TPXAfter Dark

16-0954 TPXArrowwood

18-1555 TPXMolten Lava

11-0701 TPXWhisper White

COLLECTION

Mary Bashaymarybashay@gmail.com

14 15

The Harlem Renaissance was the development of the Harlem neighborhood in New York City. It became an epicenter of a cultural mecca for African Americans in the early twentieth century which resulted in the subsequent social and artistic explosion. It was the destination for migrants from around the country, attracting both people seeking work from the South, and an educated class who made the area a center of culture, as well as a growing «Negro» middle class. The Harlem Renaissance lasted from the beginning of the 1910s until the mid 1930s. The period is considered the golden age in African American culture, manifesting in literature, poetry, music, stage performance, and art. During the Harlem Renaissance, the clothing took a dramatic turn from the traditonal and conservative. Many young women preferred loose-fitted garments, shorter skirts, and drop-waisted dresses. The fashion of the Harlem Renaissance was used to convey sophistication and flamboyance needed for the popular dancing to jazz music. this collection is directly inspired by this flamboyant period.

h e t e r o c h r o m i a

coarse

chorus boisterous

knitted collage

A rebirth, a renaissance, we will find on these city streets, these Harlem streets.

I, Too

I, too, sing America.

I am the darker brother.They send me to eat in the kitchenWhen company comes,But I laugh,And eat well,And grow strong.

Tomorrow,I’ll be at the tableWhen company comes.Nobody’ll dareSay to me,“Eat in the kitchen,”Then.

Besides,They’ll see how beautiful I amAnd be ashamed—

I, too, am America.

Maureen Umutesimaureenumutesi@ymail.com

16

The collection is inspired by the story of the Mozes twins. Eva Mozes Kor was just 10 years old when shes arrived in Auschwitz. While her parents and two older sisters were taken to the gaz chambers, she and her twins Miriam were herded into the care of the man known as the Angel of Death, dr Josef Mengele. Subjected to sadistic medical experiments she was forced to fight daily for her and her twin’s survival. Eva recovered from this terrible experience and took the remarkable decision to publicly forgive the nazis. This collection is an expression of the feeling of taking something off your shoulder, off your chest, and the feeling that after, which is freedom.

Actualized looks

Nicole Siow Thong Seechiewting1996@gmail.com

18

My designs are inspired by the silhouette of my school uniform wich resembled the naïve and playful attitude of my childhood. As I realised the transformation of being a child to adult, it reminds me that I should start growing bigger and stronger, and I express these feeling with an oversized concept in my designs.

01

look27 look28 LOOK3 LOOK4

look25 look26look27 look28 LOOK3 LOOK4LOOK1 LOOK2

LOOK3 LOOK4

Safa Yahiaalmakkisafaalmakkee@gmail.com

20

Presently, we are living in a world in which fashion trends have been brought back to life in different forms whether it be clothing, color, or even the accessories. it can be cleary seen that the fashion world will keep moving until one point where all the trends start to come back in so it is very difficult to keep seeing new trends that we have never seen before on runway, or into fashion. for me I believe that there’s only small percentage or even impossible for this to happen but things can make a difference in every show, trend, or designer is every individual’s identity along with the spirits put into that collection with an interesting storyline and each elements will allow us to create more unique fashion that becomes an interesting catch. that’s the idea behind “re-street, re-naissance”, which brings clothing in and putting in it new and unique ideas of making it with an interesting story creating distinct details, all mixing different elements that could never be thought to have produce a new fashion. When it comes to what things look like, the western world is obsessed by perfection, symmetry, and ideal proportion. This is the taste for beauty shaped by reverence to universal laws, mathematics, and an appetite for the real and eternal perfection. Japanese aesthetics are however, very different indeed and the core of the difference is captured in a term for which western languages have no direct equivalent. A term known as “wabi-sabi”, wabi sabi refers to the beauty of the impermanent, the imperfection, the rustic, and the melacholy. It derives not from the love of invicibility, youth, and flawlessness, but from a respect for what is passing, fragile, slightly broken and modest. “wabi-sabi-” believes that things are always more beautiful forbearing the marks of age and inviduality, a trickle of glaze or a beautifully repaired crack on a piece of pottery are to be appreciated rather than made invisible.

the Kolumba museum is an art museum in Cologne, Germany. The museum was founded by the societ for christian Art in 1853, and taken over by the Archdiocese of Cologne in 1989. Until 2007 it was located near Cologne Cathedral. Its new home, buit from 2003-07, was designed by Peter Zumthor and inaugurated by Joachim Meisner. The site was orignally occupied by the romanesque Church of St. Columba, which was destroyed in World war II and replaced in 1950 by a Gottfried Bohm chapel nicknamed the “Madonna of the Ruins”.

The new structure Zumthor built for the museum now shares its site with the ruins of the gothic church and the 1950’s chapel, wrapping a preforated grey brick facade like a cloak around both, the museum and old chruch. The process varying qualities with regard to incoming daylight, size, proportion, and pathways. The work on the project yielded the following reduction. light gray brick walls (Kolumba stones) and clay plaster, flooring made of a poured mortar shell, window frames, doors, casing and fittings of steel, wall of paneling and furniture of wood, textiles and leather, curtains of leather and silk.

the Kolumba museum is an art museum in Cologne, Germany. The museum was founded by the societ for christian Art in 1853, and taken over by the Archdiocese of Cologne in 1989. Until 2007 it was located near Cologne Cathedral. Its new home, buit from 2003-07, was designed by Peter Zumthor and inaugurated by Joachim Meisner. The site was orignally occupied by the romanesque Church of St. Columba, which was destroyed in World war II and replaced in 1950 by a Gottfried Bohm chapel nicknamed the “Madonna of the Ruins”.

The new structure Zumthor built for the museum now shares its site with the ruins of the gothic church and the 1950’s chapel, wrapping a preforated grey brick facade like a cloak around both, the museum and old chruch. The process varying qualities with regard to incoming daylight, size, proportion, and pathways. The work on the project yielded the following reduction. light gray brick walls (Kolumba stones) and clay plaster, flooring made of a poured mortar shell, window frames, doors, casing and fittings of steel, wall of paneling and furniture of wood, textiles and leather, curtains of leather and silk.

the Kolumba museum is an art museum in Cologne, Germany. The museum was founded by the societ for christian Art in 1853, and taken over by the Archdiocese of Cologne in 1989. Until 2007 it was located near Cologne Cathedral. Its new home, buit from 2003-07, was designed by Peter Zumthor and inaugurated by Joachim Meisner. The site was orignally occupied by the romanesque Church of St. Columba, which was destroyed in World war II and replaced in 1950 by a Gottfried Bohm chapel nicknamed the “Madonna of the Ruins”.

The new structure Zumthor built for the museum now shares its site with the ruins of the gothic church and the 1950’s chapel, wrapping a preforated grey brick facade like a cloak around both, the museum and old chruch. The process varying qualities with regard to incoming daylight, size, proportion, and pathways. The work on the project yielded the following reduction. light gray brick walls (Kolumba stones) and clay plaster, flooring made of a poured mortar shell, window frames, doors, casing and fittings of steel, wall of paneling and furniture of wood, textiles and leather, curtains of leather and silk.

6

s i l h o u e t t e s

s e l e c t e d

front back front back front back front back front back front back

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sagarika joshisrikajoshii@gmail.com • instagram : @sagarikajoshi

22

This collection is inspired by personal experience and observation as well. I lived in India for 2 years and realised people, especially women did not have the right for their opinion. They were restricted and bounded by the rules and regulations set by society. Some did discover and eventually fought for themselves. It is sad to see that people are scared to be themselves and seek for what they desire because of the society and other limitation that follows. For this collection i took silhouette and details inspirations from the renaissance and the traditional drapes.

G E N E R I C M E A N I N G :: R E - B

I R T H

B O U N D A R I E S : : L I M I T A T I O N S : : L A Y E R S O F O B S T A C L E S : : I N D I V I D U A L I T Y : : S I N G U L A R I T Y : : B R E A K F R E E : F R E E D O M

C O L O U R S T O R Y

T A N G E R I N E T A N G O17-1463 TCX

F L A M E S C A R L E T18-1662 TCX

S C A R A B19-5350 TCX

C L O U D D A N C E R 11-43201 TPX

C A N N O L I C R E A M11-4302 TPG

S N O W W H I T E11-0602 TCX

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L

O

O

K

S

EXPERIENCES AND OBSERVATION

THIS COLLECTION IS INSPIRED BY PERSONAL EXPERIENCE AND

OBSERVATION AS WELL. I LIVED IN INDIA FOR 2 YEARS AND

REALISED PEOPLE SPECIALLY WOMEN DID NOT HAVE THE RIGHT

FOR THEIR OPINION. THEY WERE RESTRICTED AND BOUNDED

BY THE RULES AND REGULATIONS SET BY SOCIETY.

SOME DID DISCOVER AND EVENTUALLY FOUGHT FOR

THEMSELVES.

IT’S SAD TO SEE THAT PEOPLE ARE SCARED TO BE

THEMSELVES AND SEEK FOR WHAT THEY DESIRE BECAUSE

OF THE SOCIETY AND OTHER LIMITATIONS THAT FOLLOWS .

Tanayalak Promlumpakqpimpae@hotmail.com

24

This collection is inspired by the concept of “deconstruction”. Deconstruction is a theory founded by “Jacques Derrida” a french philosopher of the 60’s. The main idea of deconstruction is to transgress the institution in order to appear all the details that secretly hind under themselve and are in opposition with their appearance. Deconstruct to discover something Beyond. A more concrete inspiration of this collections is the work of the American architect Peter Eisenman and his concept of Deconstructivism based on his collaboration with Jacques Derrida. The signature of Eisenman’s designs is abstract fragmented forms, exploding collage compositions and dynamic broken lines…

City of Culture of Galicia is a new cultural center in Galicia, Spain and it’s design evolves from four form defin-ing local traces.

1. Historical downtown sheet grid 2.Typography of the hill 3. Abstract cartesian gric 4. Symbolic sign of the city of Galicia “ A scallop shell ”

and then superimposed these four abstracted traces to create the silhoette of the building.

VIOLATION LAYERS

SOPHISTICATED

Pirate B

lack1

9-4

30

5T

PX

Pican

te1

9-1

25

0T

PX

Tu

rkish

Sea

19

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53

TP

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Palo

ma

16

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Win

d C

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4-4

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2T

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Brig

ht W

hite

11

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Theo Decauxtheo.decaux@ifaparis.com

26

This collection is inspired by Charles Perrault fairy tale “Peau d’Ane”, written in 1694, but also more especially by the movie “Peau d’Ane”, inspired by the fairy tale, directed by Jacques

Demy in 1970, starring Catherine Deneuve. But behind the

poetical kitsch movie with its crazy ornamented dresses,

it is taboo topics such as incest and rape which are brought out. So the collection is also an homage to feminist activists, riot girls and Femen. The garments are simple, natural, delicately neglected comfortable, and relaxed. They are all made of textile such as popeline, jersey, fleece,

double gauze… hand painted in the abstract

colors of the moon, the sun, the sky and the time…

Tsvetislav Andreevtsvetislavandreev@gmail.com

28

I started this collection inspired by nature (…) I created the “White looks” while slowly

losing something, I could never have back. And I might have not realised it back then, but I do now- I had created a blank canvas for my emotions. A starting point for my story (…) Then came the red. It’s a representation of passion and rage, a desire to move forward. A desire to feed an illusion. Strong and powerful (…) The way I organised my looks is the way I saw my emotions the past few

months. It starts with rage, feeling stripped, only to be followed by

hope and be re-born over again and again. And like any fairytale, it all ends with hope and peace.

Just like the last breath we ever take, just like closing our eyes

before falling asleep, like entering a dream.

“For dreams, we live in a

world that is entirely

our own.

Yuliya Dovzhychnew_moon_yulya@mail.ru

30

The idea of the collection originates in the ancient legend, known in some asian countries, according to which, human relations are predestined by a red string that the gods tie to the pinky fingers of those who find each other in life. I found my own inspiration for “re-street” in the works of my favorite photographer Ren Hang, a real provocateur who was free from the boundaries of gender, censorship and conservatism.Going deeper for “renaissance” interpretation, I found inspiration in an old “fish” symbol, not only being one of the oldest and most famous symbol in christian religion but used before the advent of christianity in ancient cultures along with being a generative and reproductive spirit in mythology. The fish also has been identified in certain cultures with reincarnation and the life force.” Taking as a basis the concept of people connected to each other, I came up with my own personal meaning for the collectio theme “re-street/renaissance” (…) This collection is a thank you to all the people who have influenced my development and growth, people who make you change and find your own renaissance.

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