BASICS OF SPINNING S.SUBRAMANIAN

-A.M.I.E,M.B.A

Senior Lecturer

Department of Textile Technology

Rukmini Shanmugam Polytechnic College

Varichiyur

Madurai-625 020

Mobile: 98420/81403 E-mail: subbu3366@yahoo.com

TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY

One 0f the basic needs of human-beings.

food to eat

dress to wear

house to live.

--the dress to wear for the man-kind is

Supplied by the textile industry.

TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY

SPINNING--------Producing Yarn

WEAVING---------Producing Fabric

PROCEESING----Producing dyed &finished fabric

KNITTING--------Producing inner wears

garment-----------Ready to use goods

TYPES OF YARNSCarded Yarn : Used as warp and weft

yarns in

weaving and production of fabrics.

Combed Yarn

Knitted Yarn: : banians,jetty and others.

Industrial Yarn : Doubled,plied,cable ,tyre cord yarns

Fancy Yarns : slub,snarl,cork-screw and many

SEQUENCES OF PROCESSES Ginning

Mixing

Blow-Room

Carding

Draw-Frame

Simpex

Ring spinning

Cone winding or Reeling

Bbndling & Baling

YARN MANUFACTURE

Ginning Separating the cotton from the seed

-Cleaned Cotton

Blow Room Initial opening and cleaning of cotton

-Lap

Carding Fiber to fiber separation

-Card Sliver

Drawing Parellelisation and uniformity

-Draw-Frame Sliver

Simplex Twisting and conversion to rope form

-Rove or Roving

Ring frame Drafting and twisting thinning down

the material

-Yarn

Cone Winding Final clg and conversion to large Package.

-Cone [lkg]

Bundling conversion to Hank form [local markets]

Baling packing of 50 cones

-sent for weaving units –further processing

PRODUCT FLOWYarn manufacturing is a continuous process.

The raw matl cotton is converted into yarn continuously in a sequence of process.

Seed cotton

Cleaned cotton

Lap

Card Sliver

Draw Sliver

Roving [rope form]

Yarn in cops

Yarn in cones

Cones are packed in Bales.

Ginning is the process of separting the seed from the seed cotton.

Cleaned cotton is called as the Lint.

160-180 kgs of cotton are packed in jute or polythene bags and sent to spinning mills for further processing.

First stage in the yarn manufacture.

GINNING

BLOW-ROOM Opening and cleaning of fibres.

opg & clg machines in the br line

set of machineries

Opg by wire points and strikers in the rollers/beaters.

Opens to small tufts.

Lap- forming Unit

2 beaters and calender rollers converts the opened fibres to a sheet form and produces a continuous cotton sheet in a roller

This is known us ‘LAP’

Carding Fiber to Fibrer Seperation or Indivizulisation of

fibers

Rollers covered with wire points.

100 of a Draft is given

LAP is converted to Card Sliver.

DRAW-FRAME Parellelisation and Uniformity .

8 0f a slivers are doubled and 8 of a draft is given.

Doubling is the combination of the material

Doubling improves uniformity

Drafting brings unevenness.

SIMPLEXOBJECTS

Drafting

Twisting

Winding

Building

Draw-frame sliver is converted to ROVING.

SIMPLEX-24pairs of Rollers.

Front zone,Middle zone, Back zone Drafts

Twist is introduced to the material [first]

Flyer introduces twist to the material.

Rove is wind to the bobbin due to the difference in speeds betn the spindle &bobbin.

Package ,cylindrical body with conical ends is built by building mechanism.

RING SPIINNING FRAME -1Ultimate stage of yarn-manufacture

Roving is converted to yarn.

Objects Drafting

Twisting

Winding

Building.

3 pairs of Roller drafting system.

RING SPINNING-2Main Draft & Back DraftBack or Break draft breaks the twist in the

rove and prepares the material for main drafting operation.

Twist is imparted by the traveller.

Yarn is wound to the spinning cop by the difference in speed betn the spindle and traveller.

Banana shaped cop is built by the building mechanism. round bottom with tapered ends.

CONE WINDING Small spg cops are converted into cones to a

standard wt of lkg cones.

Easy for subsequent operation warping.

Further cleaning and compact packages are produced.

Modern Auto cone winders with electronic systems are used for producjng superior quality yarn.

Auto coner spliced are used for Exports.[cone wt-3to5kgs]

MODERN SPG TECHNIQUESOpen-end spinning

Also known as sliver to yarn spg

From DF slivers yarn is spun.

simplex and cone wdg depts are eliminated.

Cones of 4-5 kgs are produced.

Suitable for only coarser counts up to 30’s.

Mass production.

OE SPG PRINCIPLERotor spinning

MODERN TECHNIQUES Dref spinning

Air Jet spinning

TECHNICAL TERMS-SPINNING Count

Draft

Twist

Count of a yarn is a numerical expression which defines the fineness .

Its also called as Yarn number or linear density of the yarn.

Yarns are numbered from 1’s to 240’s.

Quality of the yarn.

COUNT DEFINITION

English Count Classifn Coarser Count -------l’s to 30

Medium--------------31’s to 59

Finer------------------60’s to 9o

Super fine-----------91’s to 12o and above

YARN NUMBERINGThere are three systems of numbering the yarn.

Direct system

In-Direct system

Tex system or Universal system

INDIRECT SYSTEMIn Direct System

count is the no of units of length per unit weight of yarn.

higher the count finer the yarn.

Generally used for cotton,woolen, worsted and linen yarns.

COUNT D.SDirect System

Count is the no of units of weight per unit length of the yarn.

Directly expresses the size of the Yarn

Higher the number, Coarser the Yarn.

Used for Silk ,jute.

DIRECT SYSTEM\ Different Systems in Direct System

wt per unit length is the basis.

s.no system name weight ut Length ut

1 silk, Nylon 0.05 gram 450 mts

2 jute, hemp 1lb pound 14400 mts

3 Tex 1 gm 1000 mts

4 Denier 1gm 9000 mts

INDIRECT SYSTEM InDirect system

S.no Name of the system Weight ut Length ut

1 Cotton-English 1lb Hank of 840 yds

2 Cotton-French ½ kg Hank of 1000mts

3 Cotton-Metric 1kg Hank of 1000mts

4 Spun Silk 1lb Hank of 840 yds

5 Linen 1lb Lea of 300 yds

6 Worsted 1lb Hank of 560 yds

7 Wollen [american ] 1lb cut of 300 yds

COUNT U.SUniversal System Tex system is called as universal system. A direct system of yarn numbering Introduced by ISO and various

organisations of textile sector Applicable to yarns made from natural &

synthetic fibres.used from fibre to yarn stage.Recoginised all over the World.

TEX SYSTEM UNITSTex System

Fibre---- milli tex

yarn-----N0 of gms in 1000 metres.

cords, ropes &twines---- Kilo tex.

English Count Defnition

English Count Explanation

English Count

lx840 yards = l pound[840 yds] l’s count

lox840 yards= l pound[8400] lo’s count

loox840yards= lpound[84000]loo’s coun

8400 yards also weighing l pound.

How it is possible?

When the length increases, the thickness or wt of the material decreases.

DRAFT DEFINITION DRAFT

Drafting is the process of attenuating or increasing the length per unit weight of the material

ACHIEVING THE DRAFT

The successive pairs of rollers are revolving at a relatively higher

surface speed than the preceding pairs of rollers.

By this difference in speeds , the material gets stretched or

attenuated or , elongated and thus drafting takes place in the

spinning machines.

DRAFT EXAMPLE Example

Take a rubberband.

Hold it in your left hand and stretch the rubber band with your right hand.

The length of the band increases and the thickness reduces.

The same thing happens to the cotton in the drafting zone.

Length increases and thickness or wt of the tuft decreases due to the difference in the speeds of the drafting rollers.

RUBBER BAND

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RUBBER BAND

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Main Zone Draft

Draft between the front roller and the back roller Main Draft= Surface speed of Front Roller --------------------------------------- surface speed of Back Roller

MAIN DRAFT

MIDDLE ZONE DRAFTDraft between the 3 roller and 2 roller

MZD= S.S of 3 roller

S.S of2 roller

BACK ZONE DRAFT

Draft between back roller and 3 roller

BZD= SSof 4roller

SS of 3roller

Also called as Break Draft. Breaks the twist in the material and opens the fibers for main drafting action.

Draft FormulasActual draft = Hank of material del

Hank of material fed

wt/ ut length of matl fed

wt/ ut length of matl delivered.

= Mechanical draft x[100 +Waste%]/was

Total Draft= Product of all Zonal Drafts

Draft Constant = TD x Draft Change Wheel

TWIST DEFNSkinkle defines twist as the number of spiral

turns given to a yarn in order to hold the constituent fibers or threads together.

In a spinning process,a strand of fiber in a parallel form is drafted and twisted on its own axis to form a Yarn.

Expressed as the number of turns per unit length of yarn.

Turns/Inch TPI or Turns/metre TPM.

TWISTOBJECTS

To impart strength to the yarn

To orient the fibers to the central axis

To prevent slough-off

To produce a compact package

TWIST FORMULA TPI= TM x Hank of Rove

= TM or TF x Count of Yarn.

Twist Multiplier or Twist Factor is directly proportional to the tangent of the twist angle.

The value of tm is decided by the spinner based on experience and the norms given by SITRA.

TWISTDirection of Twist

S-Twist

when the spirals are in line with the central portion of the letter S.

Z-Twist

when the spirals are in line with the central

portion of the letter Z.

CONCLUSION

FEED BACK & CLARIFICATION

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CONCLUSION

FEED BACK & CLARIFICATION

THANK U