Build instruction manual

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Solar powered streetlight with sound activated alarm. Build instruction manual.

1. Introduction The purpose of this document is to provide instructions on how the solar-powered streetlight with sound activated alarm. This includes a bill of materials (BOM), a list of tools required for the built, and accurate building instructions. These instructions are only a guideline, if for some reason it is impossible: to get the required materials, use the tools described tools, or built the streetlight with the described techniques, I advise you to use your creativity a problem solving skills to come to an adequate solution. This built is not very easy and does require some technical skills (soldering, drilling, etc.). Nevertheless, it should be possible for somebody with some basic technical skills and this manual to build the street light. It is possible to build it by yourself, but it is very helpful if there is somebody to help you with the built (be the third hand with soldering, holding the tubes straight, handing parts, have somebody to talk to, etc.)

2. Bill of materials (BOM) The following materials/parts will be used to build the street light. The prices that are given, are the

prices that were paid for the prototype (excluding shipping costs).

Nr. Material/Part Possible place to order

Article number

Amount costs

1. Solar powered street light from sunlamps.

Alibaba SX-LG-0030-TJ 1 $50,-

2. Sound detection Relay Aliexpress 1 $5,-

3. Siren RS components

AE35M-02 1 $26

4. PVC tube Ø110 X 6.6mm (3 meter) PVC-welt.de A-003-110.6 1 $50

5. PVC tube Ø75 X 5.5 mm (4 meter) PVC-welt.de A-003-75.6 1 $30

6. PVC tube transfer Ø110 to Ø75 PVC-welt.de A-202-110.75 1 $4

7. PVC end cap Ø75 PVC-welt.de A-815-75 1 $1

8. PVC adhesive (optional) 1

10. Small electrical wires 2

11. Silicon glue 1

Total: ±$170

These components were used to build the first Prototype. It is possible to replace some components

for alternatives. When you replace one or more of these components, do take in account the

characteristics (battery voltage, maximum Ampere, tube diameter, etc) of the other components.

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1. Street light

(remote)

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2. Sound detection relay

3. Siren

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4. List of required tools. The following tools are required to build the street lamp:

- Basic tools (screwdrivers, wrench, etc). - Measuring tape (at least 3 meters). - Powered drill. - Metal drills, diameter: Ø7 ±0.5mm, Ø5,5 ±0.5mm, and Ø4,5 ±0.5mm. - Saw (to cut the PVC tubes on size if required). - Small turning machine (including tools) for PVC cutting operations. - Electrical equipment (soldering tool, cutting plyers, stripping plyers, etc.). - Electrical measurement equipment. - Ladder capable of reaching heights of 4 meters. - Garden hose (including water with a pressure of around 1 Bar). - Strong cleaning agent. - Water level (preferably 2) - “Duct” tape

5. Building instructions The building instructions are divided into three parts: preparing the electrical components, preparing

the mechanical components, and building the street light on site. The following applies for all thread

connections: Lefty loosey, righty tidy. And always take your own safety and the safety of others in

account while building the street light.

a. Preparing the electrical components

After receiving all electrical components, they must be assembled before the lamp is mounted on the

Pole. This preparation is done in the following steps:

Step 1: Opening the back of the street light.

Carefully remove all 6 screws on the back of the lamp. This allows for the back cap to be opened.

Warning: the wire connecting the lamp to the solar panel is most likely glued in place, so carefully lay

the back cap aside and do not try to disconnect the wire from the back cap since this will

compromise the waterproofing of the lamp.

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Step 2: Unsolder the battery from the control board.

Unsolder both wires connecting the battery to the control board.

Warning: do not let the metal endings of the two wires of the battery touch each other, since this

shortcuts the battery, possibly leading to an explosion.

Tip: When both wires are removed, temporarily protect the wire endings by covering them

(individually) with isolating tape.

Step 3: Drill the required holes

Two holes need to be drilled, one for the sound sensor and one for the siren wires. The first hole is

for the sound sensor and will be drilled in the middle of the angled face (see Photo). This hole will be

7mm ±0.5mm.

The other holes are drilled on the back plate of the street lamp and will allow the siren to be

mounted. This requires three holes, 2 for mounting the siren and one for the cable to pass through

the back plate. Drill the holes as displayed in the drawing below.

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Step 4: Cut and strip three small wires.

Cut two small wires, preferably two red and one black (or two other colors), to a length of ±7 cm.

strip the plastic of the endings of both wires (strip ±5mm).

Tip: solder the endings of the wires, so that it does not untangle.

Step 5: Connect the Sound relay to the control board.

Use two wires to connect the sound relay to the soundboard. First, solder the red wire to the positive

side of the LED connection on the control board. Then solder the black wire to the positive side of the

battery connection. Then connect the wires to the sound Relay by placing each wire in the

designated connector and tightening the connector screws.

Step 6: Remove the power select cap.

Remove the power select cap of the sound relay.

Warning: this only applies if the supply voltage of the sound relay is over 6V, if not, do not remove it.

Failing to do so could result in shortcutting the sound relay.

Step 7: Connect the siren.

Use the leftover red wire to connect the positive side of the power supply to the Com connection of

the relay.

Pull the three wires of the siren through the hole, then connect the red wire to the no port of the

sound relay. And connect the black and grey one to the negative side of the power supply.

Mount the siren with two bolts and nuts (M4X16) to the backplate.

Use the silicon glue to waterproof the holes.

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Step 8: Reattach the battery.

Reattach both battery wires to the control board.

Step 9: Calibrate the system.

It is important to calibrate the sound relay. First, cover the light sensor on the sound relay. Next,

make sure the light is on since this is the power source of the relay and siren. Next, position the

sound sensor in such a way that it has a clear line of sight for several meters.

Now, calibrate the relay by turning the screw on the relay (see photo) counter-clockwise for more

sensitivity, and clockwise for less sensitivity. Do this while somebody (preferably a woman since their

scream usually has a lower sound level) is screaming at the desired distance. Keep calibrating the

sound relay until it activates at the desired sound level.

Step 10: Cover the sound relay.

Cover the sound relay with isolating tape or isolating shrink foil in order to protect the sound relay

from shortcutting with the control board.

Step 11: Mount the sound sensor in the hole.

Place the sound sensor inside the Condom and place it in the hole drilled in step 3. Then use the

silicon glue to fix the sensor inside the hole and waterproof it.

Step 12: Close the back cap of the lamp.

Close the back cap of the lamp by placing it back on the lamp and fix it in place with the 6 screws.

Warning: it might be possible that the screws were damaged with the disassembly of the back cap. If

this is the case, do not use them again, but replace them with new screws.

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b. Preparing mechanical components

Also, the mechanical components of the streetlight must be modified before the street light can be

built. This will be done according to the technical drawing of the streetlight pole, which can be found

in the appendix. This will be done in the following steps:

Step 1: Cut the large PVC tube to the correct length.

Cut the large PVC tube (Ø110mm) to a length of 3 meters (±200mm). this cut does not have to be

perfectly straight since this side will go in the ground. After cutting it to size, deburr both edges (the

inner and outer edge).

Step 2: Cut the smaller PVC tube to the correct length.

Cut the large PVC tube (Ø75mm) to a length of 4 meters (±200mm). this cut does not have to be

perfectly straight since this side will go in the ground. After cutting it to size, deburr both edges (the

inner and outer edge).

Step 3: Remove the inner ring/notch from the tube transfer.

Mount the tube transfer with the larger side (Ø110mm) on the turning machine. Then use the

appropriate cutting tool and the right RPM to remove the inner ring/notch, allowing the tube of

Ø75mm to pass through the tube transfer.

Warning: only perform this action if you have experience with turning operations. If not, use other

tools like a file to remove the inner ring/notch.

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c. Building the streetlight

Now all parts are ready, we can start building the streetlight. Make sure that all tools required for the

build (see chapter 4) are available. Most of these instructions require you to work on a ladder and

handle long/heavy parts, it is therefore preferable if somebody helps you holding/handing parts.

Building the street light can be done with the following instructions:

Step 1: Digging the hole for the pole

Digging the hole for the outer pole can be

done using several different methods.

Which method should be used depends on,

in what kind of soil you are placing the

street light, and what kind of tools are

available. It would be possible to use an

earth drill to drill the hole. For the first

prototype, we used water to drill the hole.

First, remove any vegetation on the desired

location (including superficial roots). Then

take the outer pipe (or a smaller part cut off

from the tube), place it on the ground and

use the water hose to flush away the soil in

and underneath the tube (place the water

hose inside the tube until it hits the

ground). It is important to keep your tube

straight up (use the water level for this)

during the drilling, it might not be possible

to correct any deviations later.

It might be possible to drill the whole hole

to the correct depth of 1 meter this way,

but if the soil is very heavy or if there are

stones underneath, it is not possible to dig

deep this way. When this is the case,

remove the tube (watch out the water

column created in the tube will flush out),

and dig the hole by using the water hose to

loosen/remove soil and hands to remove

heavy soil and stones.

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Step 2: Placing the outer tube

Place the outer tube in the hole (if you drilled the hole with the tube, you can leave it in). Use the

water level to level the tube straight up. Then fill the rest of the hole (outside of the tube) with sand

(preferably white sand), in small steps. After each step, use the end of your shovel to tighten the

sand around the pole. Also, check after each step if the tube is still straight up.

Step 3: Filling the outer tube

Fill the outer tube (on the inside) with 1 meter of sand.

Warning: it is not possible to remove any sand out of the tube, so use small steps, or use a

measuring cup to fill up the exact volume.

Step 4: Placing the inner tube

Place the inner tube inside of the outer tube. Use the water level to straighten the tube. Also, make

sure that it is concentric to the outer tube otherwise, the tube transfer would not fit.

Step 5: Fill the outer and inner tube

Fill up the space between the inner and outer tube evenly with fine (preferably white) sand. Again,

use small steps, and check after each step of the tube is straight up.

Warning: do not fill it up completely since the tube transfer requires a small movement tolerance.

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Step 6: Mount tube transfer

Mount the tube transfer on the inner and outer tube. Use the PVC adhesive, to glue the tube transfer

to the outer tube. It is not possible to use the PVC adhesive to glue the tube transfer to the inner

tube since the tube transfer is slid down over the inner tube. If you have concerns regarding the

waterproofness of the tube transfer, use the silicone glue to seal the crevasse between the tube

transfer and the inner tube.

Step 7: Mount end cap

Mount the end cap on top of the inner tube. Again use the PVC adhesive to glue it in its place.

Step 8: Mount solar panel and street light

Mount the frame (steel tube with the backplate) to the top of the inner tube. You might require

other (shorter or longer) than provided with the lamp. Tighten the four bolts firmly and check that

the frame does not move easily. If it is able to be moved when the bolts are tightened hard, it might

require line the inner tube with duct tape in order to create a higher friction coefficient.

Mount the bracket (bent stainless steel part) to the solar panel, and mount this to the steel frame.

Place the lamp on the end of the steel frame and tighten the two bolts.

Connect the two connectors from the solar panel and the lamp with each other and tighten the nut.

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Step 9: Switch on the street light

Use the remote control to switch on the desired lighting function.