skin products - scsdlc.com

SKIN PRODUCTS

UNIT 2 MODULE 16

NEIL WATSON

Agenda

2

• Cleansing products

• Moisturising products

• Control of body odour

• Sun protection and tanning

• Removal of unwanted hair

(Facial) Skin types*

* According to Helena Rubinstein 1912

Fig. 1

Dry skin

Fig. 2

Normal –

combination skin

Fig. 3

Oily skin

Cleansing products

Face Body

Cleansers Toners

• Clean skin• Remove dirt, grime, makeup, malodours

• Remove final traces of dirt, …cleanser, dead skin cells

• Leave skin feeling fresh

Dry Oily

• Moisturise • Remove sebum, dead skin cells• Astringent ingredients, antibacterial

ingredients, keratinolytic ingredients

4

Formulating cleansersFormulation Number SC12

Formulation Name Moisturising Body Wash

Phase INCI Name/ Chemical Description % by weight Ingredient Function

A Aqua (Water) (Water) to 100%

B Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate (30%) 14.00 Surfactant

B Sodium Laureth Sulfate (28%) 13.00 Surfactant

B Cocamidopropylamine Oxide (30%) 4.00 Surfactant/foam stabiliser

B PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate 2.00 Surfactant/ emollient

B PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate 2.00 Thickener

C Parfum (Fragrance) 1.00 Fragrance

C Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein 1.00 Moisturiser

D Citric Acid to pH 6.5 – 7.0 pH adjuster

D Sodium chloride qs Thickener

D Preservative qs Preservative

Method of Manufacture

1. Measure out the water into a suitable vessel and start heating to 65 – 70°C2. While heating, add items in Phase B in turn to the hot water, stirring until clear but avoid aeration3. When solution is below 35°C add each Phase C item in turn, with careful stirring4. Finally adjust pH to 6.5 to 7.0, thicken with Sodium Chloride if necessary and add a preservative to ensure adequate protection from microbial contamination

TonersToners remove the last traces of grime or dirt, remove residues of soap-based or emulsion cleansers, and

remove the final traces of dead skin cells and sebum, leaving your skin feeling clean, fresh and invigorated.

ASTRINGENTS cause the contraction of the skin cells giving the user a feeling of skin tightening. Common examples are Witch Hazel or alcohol

Formulation Number SC21Formulation Name Astringent Lotion for Oily Skin

Phase INCI Name/ Chemical Description % by weight Ingredient FunctionA Oleth-10 0.50 SolubiliserA Parfum (Fragrance) 0.20 FragranceB Aqua (Water) to 100%C Propylene Glycol 5.00 HumectantC Methylparaben 0.19 PreservativeD Alcohol Denat. (Ethanol) 20.00 AstringentE Sodium Lactate 0.30 pH bufferE Lactic Acid qs to pH 5.3 – 5.8 pH adjuster

Method of Manufacture1. Pre-disperse fragrance in Oleth-10 with gentle warming2. Add to the water with vigorous stirring3. Dissolve the Methylparaben in the Propylene Glycol and add to main mixture4. Stir well and add Alcohol Denat5. Add Sodium Lactate then add Lactic Acid to adjust pH to 5.3 – 5.8Comments• Sodium Lactate has moisturising activity and buffers the pH on the addition of Lactic Acid

• This is a basic formulation to which suitable extracts can be added, including Hamamelis Virginiana(Witch Hazel) extract

• Methylparaben is the preservative of choice for this mixture although others may be suitable

Toners for oily skinAlcohol

Antibacterial agentKeratolytic agent

Toners for dry skinAlcohol free

Moisturisation

Cleansing – quick recap

Classify the main types of cleansing formulations available on

the marketRecognise and recall the common active raw materials used for

cleansing dry, normal and oily skins

Describe the advantages and disadvantages of soaps, synthetic

detergents and emulsions

Give examples of the active raw materials which can be used in

toners for dry, normal and oily skins

Agenda

• Skin types






Humectants

Fig. 19

Moisturisation

Emollients Dry skin

Moisturiser formulationBasic components of a moisturising product

1) Moisturiser • Emollient

• Humectants

2) Emulsifier system

3) Water

4) Preservative

5) Misc. additives • Antioxidants (stability)

• Fragrance (aesthetic)

• SPF (day products)

Optional rheology modifiersUnit 16 ;2.2

1. Natural additives Unit 16; 2.3.4.1

2. Hydroxy acids Unit 16; 2.3.4.3

3. Vitamins Unit 16; 2.3.4.4

4. Essential Fatty Acids (EFA’s) Unit 16; 2.3.4.5

5. Macromolecules Unit 16; 2.3.4.6

6. Polysaccharides Unit 16; 2.3.4.7

7. Delivery vehicles Unit 16; 2.3.4.8

8. Plant extracts and “plant stem cells” Unit 16; 2.3.4.8

Additives for moisturisers

The use of vitamins in cosmetics has become more popular because it complements the holistic (body, mind and soul) approach to wellbeing. This takes into consideration diet, exercise, emotional and spiritual factors. Vitamins E, A, C and Panthenol are still the most widely used.

• Vitamin E (dl alpha tocopherol, INCI Name Tocopherol) found naturally in wheat germ, can be incorporated into formulations at up to 5% as an antioxidant/free radical scavenger.

Vitamin A in its pure form has the INCI Name Retinol but as this is unstable it is more usually found in cosmetic products as its ester, either Retinyl Acetate or Retinyl Palmitate. Retinoids at levels of 0.025-0.05% have been used to treat sun or photo-damaged skin. They normalise epidermal activity and reduce hyperpigmentation.

Vitamin C, INCI Name Ascorbic Acid, is a natural antioxidant that regulates collagen biosynthesis and the body’s wound healing processes. Until recently it has been difficult to apply vitamin C topically because it is readily oxidised when in aqueous solution. However, it can be stabilised in microcapsules or liposomes and presented as Ascorbyl Dipalmitate, which is lipo-soluble. More often it is used in one of its more stable forms such as Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate as this is much easier to formulate with.

Vitamins

Moisturisation - Quick recapDefine the terms, humectant, emollient and moisturisation

Give examples of raw materials which are commonly used as moisturisers

List the basic components of moisturising products

Classify the moisturising products available on the market

Outline some of the new functional materials which are now available as

special additives

Agenda

• Skin types






PoreEpidermis

Sebaceous

gland

Hair follicle

Eccrine glandApocrine gland

SWEAT GLANDS

Apocrine EccrineFunction Creates body odour

(other function unclear)Body temperature regulation

Distribution Hair regions Most body regions

Structure Hair follicle associated Opening into skin

Activation Emotional stimuli (stress/ excitement)

Increase of body temperature

Sweat Oily, viscuous, proteins, lipids and odoriferous substances

Water, salt, (NaCl, KCl, Na2CO3 )

Sweat

Sebum

Oxygen

Body T°C

Water

Electrolytes

Proteins

Carbohydrates

Lipids

Occlusion under arm

Bacterial growthBodyOdour

Fig. 34

3 Strategies to improve BO

1. Odour modification -> Leave it, but make it smell better (deodorants)

2. Odour removal -> Remove odour by cleansing

3. Odour prevention -> Prevent odour formation (antiperspirants)

Product formats

• Roll-on – good skin contact, efficacy• Might pull your hair, longer drying time

• Aerosol – quick drying time• Hygienic

• Stick - good skin contact, efficacy• Poor hygiene profile

• Cream – excellent skin contact• messy

Formulating an APD

MODE OF ACTIONThere are several hypotheses to explain

how antiperspirants reduce axillary sweating.

The most widely accepted one is the hydroxide plug hypothesis which involves the diffusion of the soluble antiperspirant

into the sweat duct. The acidic metal salt is gradually

neutralised to form a polymeric aluminium hydroxide gel.

This gel partially blocks the opening of the sweat duct and so reduces the amount of

sweat delivered to the skin, as shown in the Figure above.

Formulation Number SC46Formulation Name Antiperspirant Roll-on (Water-in-volatile-silicone Emulsion)

Phase INCI Name/ Chemical Description % by weight Ingredient FunctionA Cyclopentasiloxane 20.00 Volatile siliconeA Parfum (Fragrance) 0.50 FragranceA Polyglyceryl-10 Palmitate 2.00 LubricantA PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone 10.00 Silicone emulsifierB Aluminum Chlorhydrate (50%) 38.00 Antiperspirant activeB Aqua (Water) to 100%

Method of Manufacture1. Mix together items of Phase A until clear2. Mix together items B, Aluminum Chlorhydrate solution and water3. Add Phase A to Phase B with constant stirring then homogenise with a high shear mixer4. Fill into suitable roll-on packsComments• The Cyclopentasiloxane is cool and refreshing; the Polyglyceryl-10 Palmitate is a lubricant and the PEG/PPG-18/18

Dimethicone is a water-in-silicone (w/Si) emulsifier

• Aluminum Chlorhydrate is the antiperspirant active material, which is usually available as a 40% or 50% solution in water

Active Maximum use level EU (anhydrous) Maximum Use Level US (anhydrous)

ACH Not listed in Annex III 25%

AZCH 20% (Not to be used in aerosol dispensers (sprays)) 20%

•The use of antiperspirants, like antimicrobial actives, is regulated by the EU Cosmetic

Regulations in Europe, and the FDA’S OTC Review Panel in USA. Table 5 summarises the

limits for the EU.

Efficacy testing

• Olfactory• Sniff test – trained noses

• Gravimetric• Controlled conditions

• Weighing the amount of sweat

• At least 20% reduction in sweat levels in treated versus untreated

Body Odour – quick recapList the major factors which cause underarm odour

Explain the difference between apocrine and eccrine sweat in terms of

composition

Define the function of a deodorant and an antiperspirant

Describe the various product and packaging forms available for deodorants and

antiperspirants

List the common active materials used in deodorants and antiperspirants

List other basic components found in deodorant and antiperspirant formulations

Agenda

22

• Skin types






Sun effects on skin

1. + Melanogenesis (tan)

2. + Vitamin D synthesis

3. - DNA damage (cancer, direct)

4. - Sunburn (direct)

5. - Photoaging (wrinkles, dark spots -direct)

6. - Free radicals (direct) leading indirectly to

3, 5 and 6

Sun effects on skin

1. UVA: 320 – 400 nm

• Penetrates glass

• Penetrates deeper into skin

• Damages ECM

• Causes majority of photo ageing

2. UVB: 290-320 nm

• Causes sun burn

3. UVC: 100-280nm

• Blocked by the ozone layer

Skin Type I II III IV V VI

Skin Colour Very white or freckled

White White to olive Brown Dark brown Black

Reaction to Sun* Always burns easily, never tans

Always burns easily, tans minimally

Burns moderately, tans gradually and

uniformly (Light brown)

Burns minimally, always tans well

(moderate brown)

Rarely burns, tans profusely (dark

brown)

Never burns***, deeply pigmented

(black)

Description People most often with fair skin, blue

eyes, freckles, unexposed skin is

white**

People most often with fair skin, red

or blonde hair, blue, hazel or brown eyes,

unexposed skin is white

Average white person,

unexposed skin is white

People with white or light brown

skin, dark brown hair, dark eyes (e.g. Hispanics, Mediterranean,

Mongoloids, Orientals),

unexposed skin is light brown

Brown skinned persons (e.g.

American Indians, East Indians,

Hispanics, Afro-Caribbeans,

African-American), unexposed skin is

brown

Blacks (e.g. Afro-Caribbeans,

African Americans, Australian

Aborigine and South Indians),

unexposed skin is black

Sunscreens

• Helps protect the skin from UV damage

• Reflects or absorbs UV light

1. Physical sunscreens

Zinc Oxide, Titanium Dioxide

2. Chemical sunscreens

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Octocrylene

Fig. 42

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate

Octocrylene

Titanium Dioxide

Zinc Oxide

Absorbance

Wavelength (nm)

UVB UVA

INCI Name Annex VI Ref. No. Max. Conc. Range of Wavelengths Absorbed UVA/B US Drug Name US Max Conc. Also approved

Camphor Benzalkonium Methosulfate 2 6% max 284nm UVB --- --- AUS

Homosalate 3 10% max 305nm UVB Homosalate 15% AUS, JPN

Benzophenone-3 4 10%(a) max 287nm UVB/UVA Oxybenzone 6% AUS, JPN

Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 6 8%(b) max 307nm UVB Ensulizole 4% AUS, JPN

Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid 7 10%(b) max 345nm UVA Ecamsule 3% (c) AUS

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMDM) 8 5% max 355nm UVA Avobenzone 3% (d) AUS, JPN

Benzylidene Camphor Sulfonic Acid 9 6%(b) max 294nm UVB --- --- AUS

Octocrylene 10 10%(b) max 302nm UVB Octocrylene 10% AUS, JPN

Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidene Camphor 11 6% max 295nm UVB --- ---

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 12 10% 308-310nm UVB Octinoxate 7.5% AUS, JPN

PEG-25 PABA 13 10% max 307nm UVB --- --- AUS

Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate 14 10% max 308nm UVB Amiloxate 10% (e) AUS

Ethylhexyl Triazone 15 5% max 312nm UVB Octyl Triazone 5% (e) AUS, JPN

Drometrizole Trisiloxane 16 15% max 303nm, 344nm UVB/UVA --- ---

Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone 17 10% max 311nm UVB --- --- JPN

4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor 18 4% max 303nm UVB Enzacamene 4% (e) AUS

Ethylhexyl Salicylate 20 5% max 306nm UVB Octisalate 5% AUS, JPN

Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA 21 8% max 310nm UVB Padimate O 8% AUS, JPN

Benzophenone-4 22 5%(b) max 285nm UVB Sulisobenzone 10% AUS, JPN

Benzophenone-5 22 5%(b) max 285nm? UVB --- --- AUS

Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (MBBT) 23 10% max 370nm UVA Bisoctrizole 10% (e) AUS, JPN

Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate (DPDT) 24 10%(b) max 335nm UVA --- --- AUS

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (BEMT) 25 10% max 341nm UVA Bemotrizinol 10% (e) AUS, JPN

Polysilicone-15 26 10% max 312nm UVB --- --- AUS, JPN

Titanium Dioxide (NANO) 27a 25%(f)max

290-300nmUVB/UVA

Titanium Dioxide 27 25%(g)max

290-300nmUVB/UVA Titanium Dioxide 25% AUS, JPN

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB) 28 10% max 354nm UVA --- --- AUS, JPN

Tris-Biphenyl Triazine 29 10%(h) 290-340nm UVB/UVA --- ---

Tris-Biphenyl Triazine (NANO) 29 10%(h) 290-340nm UVB/UVA --- ---

Zinc Oxide (NANO) 30a 25%(i)max

360-370nmUVB/UVA

Zinc Oxide 30 25%(i)max

360-370nmUVB/UVA Zinc Oxide 25% AUS, JPN

PABA --- --- 290-320nm UVB PABA 15% AUS

Benzophenone-8 --- --- max 330nm? UVB/UVA Dioxybenzone 3% AUS

Menthyl Anthranilate --- --- max 335nm UVA Meradimate 5% AUS

TEA-Salicylate --- --- UVB Trolamine Salicylate 12% AUS

Solar simulator lamp

Selection of test sites

Exposure to UV radiation

Reaction to UV radiation

Measuring and calculating SPF

• Internationally harmonized method to measure the erythema causing effect

of UVB

• Determines the MED (minimal erythemal dose)

• Lowest UV dose that produces the first perceptible unambiguous erythema

with defined borders appearing over most of the field of UV exposure, 16 to

24 hours after the exposure

SPF = Time to produce erythema in protected skin

Time to produce erythema in unprotected skin

UVB

Boots star rating system - UVA protection

• SPF measures UVB- protection

• System to evaluate UVA / UVB protection

• Calculates LPI (Light protective index) for UVALPI = amount of light passing through with protection

amount of light passing through without protection

UVA protection category

0 to <0.2 No UVA claim

0.2 to <0.4 (obsolete) Previous minimum

0.4 to <0.6 (obsolete) Previous moderate

0.6 to <0.8 *** good

0.8 to <0.89 **** superior

0.9 and above ***** ultra

= LPI (UVA)SPF (UVB)

x̄

= LPI (UVA)

SPF (UVB)X̄ % X 100

Fig. 43

UVA

Sun protectionList the 8 main components of the sun’s electromagnetic spectrumList the 3 main types of ultraviolet light plus their corresponding wavelengthsExplain how sunlight interacts with the skinClassify skin into six main types in terms of their normal pigmentation, sunburn and tanning characteristics

Describe how the skin develops a tanSummarise the effects of long-term chronic exposure of the skin to ultraviolet radiation, using premature ageing

as an example

Define what is meant by the term sunscreenExplain the difference between a chemical and a physical sunscreen in terms of their mode of action

List the characteristics of an ideal sunscreen product in terms of formulation aesthetics and performance

Give examples of UVA and UVB sunscreensDescribe how the efficacy of UVA and UVB sunscreens can be measuredList and describe the other basic components used in suncare productsDescribe the active ingredients used in after sun, anti-ageing products and artificial tanning products

Explain how a sun protection factor (SPF) is calculatedList and describe the variables that influence the calculation of the SPF number for a product

Agenda

32

• Skin types






Mechanical

• Tweezing

• Threading

• Electrical epilation

• Electrolysis

• Sugaring

• Waxing

• Shaving

Chemical

• Thioglycolates

• Enzymes

Epilation

• From below the skin

surface

Depilation

• From above the skin

surface

Formulation Number SC60

Formulation Name Thioglycolate Depilatory Cream

Phase INCI Name/ Chemical Description % by weight Ingredient Function

A Aqua (Water) to 100%

A Tetrasodium EDTA 0.08 Sequestrant

A Urea 4.00 Humectant

A Glycerin 3.00 Humectant

B Paraffinum Liquidum (Mineral Oil) 1.00 Emollient

B Decyl Oleate 3.00 Emollient

B Ceteareth-12 2.00 Emulsifier

B Cetearyl Alcohol 10.00 Emulsion stabiliser

C Calcium Thioglycolate 7.50 Depilatory agent

C Calcium Hydroxide 1.50 pH adjuster

D Mica 5.00 Opacifier

E Potassium Hydroxide solution qs pH adjuster

D Parfum (Fragrance) qs Fragrance

Method of Manufacture

1. Measure out the water and other ingredients of Phase A and heat to 75°C

2. Weigh the items of Phase B, the oil phase, into a separate vessel and heat to 75°C3. When both phases are at 75°C and all waxes are melted add the oil phase B to the aqueous phase, A, with mixing

4. Mix with cooling to 40°C and mix in Phase C items

5. Mix well and add mica and continue slow mixing to ambient temperature6. Finally make a 10% solution of potassium hydroxide [with great care & wearing proper safety equipment] in water and adjust

pH of mix to 12.57. A fragrance may be included but few are stable in this system

Comments

• WARNING: This is a corrosive product, be careful; it will dissolve hair, skin, eyes and carpets

• Any traces of iron will turn it purple

• The Tetrasodium EDTA will chelate iron ions; urea softens the hair and other ingredients provide some protection to the skin

against the irritating effects of the depilatory

• This formula is added for interest and anyone wishing to make a depilatory product is advised to seek expert advice

WARNINGS: Due to their high pH depilatories need to ensure they have adequate warnings and must not be used on broken or damaged skin.

UREA can help reduce the required contact time

Redoxin can reduce the required amount of thioglycolate required.

Removal of unwanted hair – quick recapDistinguish between mechanical and chemical methods of hair removal

Explain the differences between wet and dry shaving

List the desired properties of a good wet shaving product

List the three main types of wet shaving products currently available on the market

Describe the basic components of soap-based and emulsion-based shaving products

List the function and components of a dry shaving preparation

Define the functions of an aftershave product

List the major components in an aftershave product

List the requirements of a chemical depilatory

Explain the active ingredients used in a chemical depilatory

Explain how a thioglycolate-based depilatory works

Describe how enzymes and sugaring are used for hair removal

ANYQUESTIONS?............

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