skin care products
TRANSCRIPT
Cosmetics and Perfumes Skin care products -I
Subject Expert: Dr. Tanuja NautiyalSOS Organics SOS Organics
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Cosmetic products which have a quick turnover, and relatively low cost are known as Fast Moving Consumer Goods (FMCG). Indiaʹs FMCG sector is the fourth largest sector in the economy.
In this lecture we will discuss about the preparation of some skin care products :Creams (cold, vanishing and shaving creams), Sun-tan lotions, Face powder, Lipsticks, Talcum powder, Nail enamel,
Introduction
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Among the numerous skin classifications that are proposed, distinguishes four different types: normal, oily, dry and mixed.Dry skin would mainly correspond to structural and functional modifications of the components of the epidermis.Oily skin would result from an excessive seborrheic production, invading skin surface and possibly hair.
Classification of human skin
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A variety of skin care products exist in market. They fulfil a variety of functions by either acting directly on the skin (moisturizers) or being a cosmetically elegant vehicle for the delivery of specific active ingredients (sunscreens or anti-acne medicaments).
Skin Care Products
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These skin care products are categorized into three functional groups:
Drugs: To prevent diseases by altering the structure andfunction of the body.
Cosmetics: To beautify and improve the skin. Cosmeceuticals: An intermediate classification for cosmetic
products that may enhance the function of the skin.
Skin Care Products
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The skin-care product groups can also be classified by their physical properties. Emulsions, lotions, paste, suspension, tablet, powder, gels, sticks and aerosols.
Most common forms of skin care products are emulsions.
Skin-care products
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Oils are excellent cosmetic materials: Improve surface feel, Protect, Aid in moisturization, Reduce static, Shine.
Drawbacks of oil: Tacky, greasy, cost too muchThe Solution: its Dilution.The problem: Oil & Water Do Not Stay MixedWhy? Lower free energy when separate, Hydrogen Bonding, Oils are non-polar, Size of molecules.The Solution: Add energy to the system by Agitation ,HeatNeed something to stabilize : Surfactants or Emulsifiers.
Why we use emulsions not oil in skin care products?
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Emulsions
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Emulsions are mixtures of two insoluble materials that are stabilized against separation.
An example is mixture of oil and water, which will not mix unless an intermediate emulsifier is incorporated into the mixture.
Emulsions may be formulated of water in oil (w/o), oil in water (o/w), aqueous gel, and silicone in water (w/Si).
Emulsions
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Water-soluble ointment bases: polyethylene glycol (PEG) polymers are water-soluble and do not hydrolyze or support mold growth, for this reason polyethylene glycol (PEG) make good washable ointment. Absorption bases can serve as concentrates for w/o emolients; water maybe added to anhydrous absorption bases to form a cream-like consistency. Petrolatum: a component of anhydrous absorption bases, absorbed into delipidized skin and to accelerate barrier recovery.
Skin care products
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Internal phase: oilExternal phase: waterAdvantages: Easiest to formulate, Least expensive, Best feel – cooling effectDisadvantages: Less oil delivered, Not as effective for dry skin, Not water-resistantExamples: Hair conditioners, Sunscreen, Wrinkle Creams
Oil
WaterOil
Oil in water emulsion
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Internal phase: water External phase: oil Advantages: Waterproofing possible, Most effective
for dry skin and Better stability Disadvantages: Oily, tacky feel, More expensive Examaple: Cold creams
Water in Oil emulsion
Water
OilWater
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Silicone formulation also be used to form stable water-in-silicone (w/Si). These are polymeric surface-active agents with long bond lengths and wide bond angles, provides exceptional elegance and good coverage when applied to skin.
Silicone compounds polyethylene-oxide bases grafted to polydimethylsiloxane hydrophobic polymers, known as dimethicone copolylemulsifiers, this is a type of water-in-cyclomethicone emulsions.
Water-in-silicone (w/Si) emulsion
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Multiple emulsions; Oil in Water in Oil (O/W/O) and Water-in-Oil-in-Water (W/O/W) emulsions,
Advantages: More effective than Oil in Water, Less greasy than Water in oil, Time release, active delivery possible
Disadvantages: Hard to manufacture, Not always stable Applications: Drug delivery, Taste masking food products
Multiple emulsion
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Water
Oil
Oil
Oil
Water
Water
Multiple phases of emulsions
Oil-in-Water-in-Oil (O/W/O) emulsions
Water-in-Oil-in-Water (W/O/W) emulsions
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Reduce interfacial surface tensionHelps disperse oil in waterForms micelles in solution
Emulsifiers
Lipophilic Tails
Hydrophilic heads
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Emulsifiers act as solubilizers and spreading or dispersing agents are available in a wide range of chemical types:
Non-ionic emulsifiers: (Polyoxyethylene fatty alcohol ethers) Anionic emulsifiers: (Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate) Cationic emulsifiers: (Quaternary ammonium salts) Hydrophobic, lipophilic, ethoxylated, and nonethoxylated.
Emulsifiers
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Surfactants: skin creams contain surfactants to improve penetration and suspension properties.Thickeners: helps to obtain viscosity, enhance stability, bodying agent.(Carbopol, veegum)Humectants: It’s purpose is to decrease evaporation, is to attract moisture, increase viscosity, and reduce irritation, e.g., propylene glycol, glycerin, honey and hyaluronic acid. Preservatives:
Additives in emulsions
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Manufacturing process ofSkin care product
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Skin care product manufacturing process is a batch process. Initially, the raw material goes through a Quality Check (QC).Basic raw materials (like glycerine) are added into a Mixing vessel (Vessel 1) a vessel suitable for heating, cooling and agitation. These materials are mixed along with hot water. The water used for this process is De-mineralised and all impurities are removed before using in manufacturing process. This mixture is known as ‘water phase’.
Skin care product manufacturing process
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Mixing of the raw materials is carried out at specific temperature (about 70-750C) and the entire solution is agitated inside the vessel to form a homogeneous mixture. In a separate vessel (Vessel 2) ‘Oil phase’ is prepared by adding most of the chemical ingredients at a specific temperature (around 70-750C). The solution thus formed is mixed continuously to form homogenous mixture.
Skin care product manufacturing process
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The mixture from both the vessels is taken to the side vessel where ‘Water phase’ and ‘Oil phase’ are mixed and agitated for 20 to 30 minutes. The temperature of the liquid is brought down to a specific level depending upon the product (typically from 35 to 450 C). If required, Citric Acid or Sodium Hydroxide is used to adjust pH of water. Subsequently, fragrances, dyes and preservatives are added in the solution.
Skin care product manufacturing process
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Water Phase
Process chart for O/W type cream(small droplets of oil dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase)
Purified water , humectant Heat
about 700C
Oil phase Fats, waxes,
liquid oil, surfactant, preservatives
Heating dissolution 70-800C
Stirring about 700C
Preliminary emulsification
about 700C
emulsification about 700C
De-airing
Filtering
Cooling
Filling
Storage
perfume
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Process chart for W/O type cream(small droplets of water dispersed in a continuous oily phase)
Water Phase
Fats, waxes, liquid oil, surfactant, preservative
Heat about 700C
Oil phase
Purified water , humectant
Heating dissolution 70-800C
Stirring about 700C
Preliminary emulsification
about 700C
emulsification about 700C
De-airing
Filtering
Cooling
Filling
Storage
perfume
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The procedure for preparing o/w and w/o emulsion is to add the warned inner phase very slowly to the outer phase (also at 75% stirring constantly and homogenizing to assure efficient emulsification. Finely dispersed o/w emulsions can also be prepared by adding the aqueous phase to the oils. Initially the low concentration of water forms a w/o emulsion according to the phase-volume relationship.
o/w and w/o emulsions
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The slow addition and emulsification of the water increase the viscosity of the system while the oil phase expands to a maximum.
At this point the continuous oil phase breaks up into minute droplets as emulsion inversion occurs, characterized by a sudden decrease in viscosity.
o/w and w/o emulsions
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This emulsification technique proceeds smoothly at the critical inversion point in a well-balanced, low oil-wax system, but it frequently cases coagulation ink high oil-wax emulsions.
The conventional procedure of adding the inner phase to the out preferable for creams and lotions.
o/w and w/o emulsions
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Primary Packing for skin care products can be done in the following ways depending upon the requirement Bottle/ Container packing Sachet/ Pouch packing After filling skin care product in a bottle/ sachet, it is sealed appropriately.
Skin care product manufacturing process
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Skin creams are classified according to their function, some cream types are listed below: Cleansing creams Cold creams Moisturizing creamsVanishing creamsProtective creamsAll-purpose cream
Classification of Skin Creams
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Cold Cream
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Cold Creams
Cold cream is water in oil type of emulsion.
Cold cream has emollient action and prevents dehydration of skin.
Cold cream is called cold cream because breaking up of emulsion on application to skin leads to evaporation of water giving cooling effect.
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The cold creams may be divided into oil-water (beeswax-borax) types and water-in-oil creams (beeswax without additional alkali).
Beeswax is the sole emulsifying agent in a water-in-oil cream.
Cold Cream
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The key chemical constituent of cold cream is beewax.
The Emulsifier is usually prepared inside by reaction between borax and bees wax and stabilizes cold cream Emulsion.
Since this preparation contains both oil and water. It is at risk to microbial attack, hence it is preserved by adding preservatives.
Ingredients of Cold Creams
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Beewax: 284 approx chemical compounds that make up beewax, Triacontyl palmitate is one of the principal chemical components of beewax.
Borax
Triacontyl palmitate (C46H92O2)
Ingredients of cold cream
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General methods of preparation of cold cream
Melt the wax, white soft paraffin, hard paraffin on a water bath.
Add liquid paraffin and heat the mixture of 700C.
Dissolve the borax in water at 750C and melts fats with continuous stirring.
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Cool with stirring to 400C
Add the required quantity of preservative and perfumes.
Transfer the cream to container while hot.
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General formulation of cold cream
Ingredients Quantity in grams
White bees wax 7.3 gm Stearic acid 13.6 gWool fat 9.0 gm Liquid paraffin 15.0 gm Terpineol 1.5 gm Triethanolamine 1.9 gm Propylene glycol 7.3 gm Water 43.2 gm Perfume Sufficient quantity
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Industrial Manufacturing of Cold Cream
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Industrial Manufacturing of Cold Cream
Weighed Triethanol amine is dissolved in water and heated to 700C in a suitable pharmaceutical grade container.
Preparation of aqueous phaseStep:I
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Preparation of Cold Cream
Weighed Bees wax, lanolin, speramacitin wax, oleic acid, paraffin wax then dissolved in mineral oil and heated to 700C, This makes the oily phase of cold cream water in oil emulsion.
Preparation of Oil phaseStep:II
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Preparation of Cold Cream
At 700C, Both the phases are mixed and stirred ,It is important to stir continuously while adding aqueous phase to the oily phase to get stable water in oil emulsion. Keep stirring till the temperature comes down to room temperature.
Preparation of water in Oil type emulsion Step:III
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Preparation of Cold Cream
Sufficient quantity of perfume is added before packing the finished product to suitable wide mouth labelled containers
Addition of additivesStep: IV
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Cosmetics and Perfumes-I Skin care products -I
Subject Expert: Dr. Tanuja NautiyalSOS Organics