singer-320k21 manual instructiuni
TRANSCRIPT
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SINGER S201
SWING-NEEDLE MACHINE
Straight stitching machineof highest quIality
Automatic zigzag machine,0 - ^;} Wwith built-in stitch
designs
Ioflverlible bed for tubularand flat work
F958) tAtden3ck 0_ h SINGERMANUFACTURINGCOMPANY
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THE NEW SINGER CONVERTIBLE AUTOMATIC
'i'al all lw flell Illi, il- lault sit the expeit art, andIflat lwe Inade SUMJ1 the kroxn and o'd Flarlic it) scimil.' [lit,
f,,r more than a celillin. Wall it ou call d', lwailliful ornamental stitelles! 1'1)i alllazililg tria, hinc ill soor straight and t[wri, hv
simpk till, w. illow lesels. Ll call it, dcloralive tittliiti,, ill no ritore linic 'I m)Inolc eflolt thall it take, lo do stlaight stitchilon
The 320K all of file of built-in 'fildles, \el all of tile \t s tilit of
able FASHI(N* Disc,. (Juinge the FASHION ,it the front of the llim llinc and kal haveadded riot (ore, but numy new stitl lics. Designs at.(. simply colill-olled lo, sill It- [excl. openitioll
b the ii,,c of a combinatron of
The bed ou 1.. S(, :iitiofa cuned or cylindro at shalw and flal "ork titliequal facilit 'v. The tubular bed is quicklY con-
1k, a flat bed b a d d i n g the Flat Workfa I Ic . 11 T h e t" o pu'll bution, Arelease the Flat kXork Table fir renio\al when
the tubular bed is requin.d.
1 ] A i r,
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3
SINGER SERVICE
Wherever you go xou will find expert, dependable SINGER* Service close at hand. SINGER isinterested in hdping you keep your SINGER Sewing Machine in top runuiig condition. That iswhy you should alwaxs cail your SINGER SEWING CENIRE if your machine ever requires adjust-ment or repair. WhPIi You call your SINGER SEWING CENTRE you can be sure of obtainingthe service of a trained SINGER repair man and can be assured of warranted SINGER* partswhen needed! Look for the famous red "S" Trade Mark orn your SI NGER SEWING
CENTREand the ever ready SINOER Service Car.
EVERYTHING FOR THE WOMAN WHO SEWS
The answer to your sewing needs is at your SINGER SEWINGC ENTRE. There vou will find awide choice of sewing necessities and notions, sewing intstruetions and guideance and services for
covering buttons. hemstitching, making belts and buckles, to menation a few. Look in your telephonedirectory under SINGER SEWING MACHINE COMPANY.
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1
ADVANCED FEATURES OF THE SINGER 320K
W M0,1,10X"ixtill,,,It ... k iil,,iil,.,
H 11 \ ISIO, \ CASK lip l i ta l l . '
t,,111isillii"ilitg illid autollialif'
8. GRADUATEDTENSION withinasingle . co call li, 11-ed Z1, it tuffl. nefidll. thread tension is regulated
11al lii,1 iii" 1[iiix, oI it- it tubulill fwil Illa- J(ii d fal)ri(. thread anti] slitching.hille 1,.1 artich- 'd ' it ol
llatille. S,,t, pages % t,, 107 HIMEsIBLE FEE'D (,it, cithelfio I tililiLir Bed 1,irkiAtl or kt, k ari- t, ,, o, fa, k
alld 1,tl,[, t end, of 'Caills,
1. V1 11 ..... mvall, of S1,1,1,01 LENG1,11 INDICA1,01l I'ithh-kell blind tit,life licills.
'i'llisle tlixllliilg art,....... tin arlliving performane',
likililli-i 't l o c 11 des ign , It-ull 11,,111 Lli l lg 12it 1 ol Ftr axiilitl% of slitth thil 1 iott Ifigh in. I'm the pick-up Act].]
(11m k illidkel 111kil els ia l lge
llw 1it. 1 i. ilrea
51, allhi the SIN(J1 1 c-pc- lt) M.7KIDLE ('[i l, niake, itClilll' 'Itirill art,] a. i m alc be, iikl" Aft, llo jilyltjl to plact, illiiti,,,11i,, ille horlded ill mclill, ill, ffi,
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ELECTRICAL INFORMATIONThe SINGER* Electric Motor
1- located at the back of ite mar hine, antd canbe Supplied fur operalion oil alternati or-gdirect current. Orders must state thec ala10gie irnmlr of the motor, or thevoltage, and in tile case of alternating currelt,the nillher of cycles.
Before Inserting ElectricPlug-be sure that voltage and number of cycles
stamped on motor nameplate are within lrangemarked om electric meter installed by electric Apower company. A
Electrical Connectionsfor Machiine aPush 3-pin safety plug A, Fig. ], into
3-pinterminal block at right of machint and (onnl1Eplug at oth er end of pord to electric outlet.
Speed ControllerThe speed of machine is regulated by amrrountof pressure om foot contriollcr or knee con-troler. Fig. 1. EletriMcieConnectionjor Machine
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AUTOMATIC STITCHING
\Xlien all fitch lexkr- . Am n ill Fig. 2, lit. 'I'ieiitv-foijr additional FASHION Dise, area t 1 1 i 1 1( 1, ,, t 1), ) i 1 1 I I W I'1 l lo, b igh t furnisfied uith the inachinc. Each of theseleicr 'L Fig 26. it) FASHION Flises is interchangeable with the, l t ialil ' l l i ngh t t i t( fills i, d onc , one on the fiont of thi. ma(luinw. With cach
All amazing iiulliltlt ot Usetill stit(Ales flie, a new vaii(,tv Of condlinations can lie pro-are lmoduced autonlaticallY 1"lleo Oll taisc. dueed, througli tile rise of Orle Or more levers..)late Or nIXIrv Of' t i le s t i te l l
For the most attractive, of these (1,1111billation AtLaclied 1, [lie outside of the machinc is th e
lies ers should be Blitid stitell (Its(., which is engaged by ifle firstiigrn; not inore than three levused. lever.
big. 2, Slith LIt lls Fig. 3. Stitch Lever E Fig, 4. Blind -Batch Disc No, 3in --- p- Position
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AUTOMATIC STITCHING
Five autornalic titch iif, 4,iis are btlilt illti) tit(' machine. Merely lift tbC 11(sigilate(l lever toproduce the iteli oldicated oil the lever. '1'he Illaximilin width o`f tie Stilch is achimed mlienbight is set at 5 designs re' ilt frorll setfilo, the bight at than 5. All almost zeroSlitiAl length gic eS a Solid hil,,tgll, W c a 1 )tiger stitch leogth gis('s all open pallern, Twin needleslitchinn, is clone at 3 bight or less.
Zigzag l~e A ~ law~ Zigzag Point 1)Frr: F,,r: Applique ,i' Inuid,
Se ',ing butoms SatinReinforTi S Deematne ol h.ca,ng Brunt, C11 1.1d,a irline ability appliqueCordon, Scale, SafiT, Ball l ver E
lae 1W "W'
iv Bot-der 3cignsMultifale Stitch Zigzag Other B/ Decorative applicatimisF.r: fIeirf,)rcirig 0,erlail ....1
Patelling Abutted settlersNIct dine Elastic Seams Milld S0 tch - Dise, :I --v v vDec'(,rative Ifinding blanket For: flell,' V-
...... FacingsS,allop--[ ver C
redgito, 5'alre, and foliageFor: FacedDecorative stichieg econo', all[, Bills
AppIving Ikands and lace
NOTE: Fo cliange the (I Pattel n produced by FASHION Dises 5 lo 15, 16, 17 arel 18.levers(, the on [fie shalt.
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AUTOMATIC STITCHING
additiolull F\SHION ],)i(s are included will, tilil- inaf.Iiiie ll)is(s 1 1 and 11) rebilill it.Ito llif' ltlachilic as levels 1)airs E, respeclively, and produce designs as showil oll page 7.)'11c 211 additional flics produce 111c flesilTi
Arrombead (5)- Three Step (18) W^ 910^ ^ 11
Dovilillo (6) ....... .....
shell Efige -11.k A A A 1
solid Scallop V I V V W Semaphore(22)-
S"n'] I'vramid (23)- IFv IT ITY v[!illicit (10)- Open P.hraillid (24)- /1
1) - -------- sifilly (25)
Walls (12) Block (26)
solid Dull1101111 03) 40 10#1 Fagoting (27)-
Loill, Obliqu, ( 1 5 ) "111 Coild) (28)- Ill U
shillAc14) Pasilion (29)Pelltlaill (I- Platform (3o)- M M1'M lm PM, 1111lM
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COMBINATION STITCHES(With Levers)
bu!ilim FASi IU N Dises:
LIcyer%A and B levers Band E
Lovers A and C Levers C andE
Levers A and D Levers D and E
Lavers A and Elevers A, C and E
Levers a end C Levers B, C and D
Lovers B and D Lever, B, D andE
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M
COMBINATION STITCHES(With Levers and Disc)
The f"llowi il, itl ht, are produeed bY lisifill at the tillIC (ne or Illore (if tile lever, whiellexig, gk 1)is(, and Di-e. 5 il. 0:
L ~ , A, Disc 5 1~% B o d E, Disc 5
beer 8, Disc 5 Le~ A, a .. d E, Disc 5
A~Aib 11m., TillL e ~ E, Disc 5 l e e , A, Disc 6
A7Wle ers A id 0, Disc 5 1... r B, Disc 6
L~', A o.d E, Disc 5 L.. . . D, Disc 6
8 i,d D, Disc 5 te .. A mf E, Dilc 6
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COMBINATION STITCHES(With Lovers and Disc)
'I'llc f(II(tsillg slitches art, produced bx tilitig at the lime one (pr mcireof tlicengage the bu ilt.irl FASHION Discs Discs 7. 8, 9 or 10 :
IWWWIW""
lever A.Dim: 7 1.v.1%Aand D,Dix 7
Love, 8, Diw7 L.vers 8 and C, Di, 8
Lev., C, DIK7 lover. 8 and D,Dim:a
Leve, D,DiK 7 levels B and D,Mw 9
WY"~VIF ipW Will WV'WV
Lever E,Di. 7 love, A,Mw 10
Spy W w7W verstov.n A and 8, Di. 7 lever, D and E,Ditc 10
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COMBINATION STITCHES(With Levers and Disc)
The 'fitelle, 31C at the same tinle (011x. or more of the level, vIii 11tile bullt.m VASIll(N Wid Air,, of t i le d i e .S 1111mbeled f r o m to 21
D,Diw 11 tie r A,Dic 17
W W W 7W 7W W W0 W- vw,""le~ A,Di. 12 l~rs A .. d E, Di. 18
le , A, Dic 13 1,~ A,D;x 20
1,er E,Dix 15 1.~ A, Di 21
Le...E,Di 16 j~, B,Dic 21
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11,3
COMBINATION STITCHES(With Levers and Disc)
it. ke- in. 1,- using in ille lill), Isill, or m oreof 111(tho built-m and on, ol llic numb, id hom 21 to' 0:
fl.,, D,Disc 21 lee, D,Disc 26
Lse, E,Disc 21 A,D;,c 29
777
L ~ E,Disc 22 l.,e, A,Disc 30
le~ 8, D sc 5 8, Disc 30
04
te,, A,Di 26 L ~ D,Disc 30
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1 1
TWIN NEEDLE DECORATIVE STITCHING
f oo t j u s e d b)l 0, Allopin , and Imming itt a n d one ll w
1M7
L... rA Disc5
Disc 6
l ~ r C Disc7
er Disc 8
lee, E Disc 9R5
Disc3 Disc 10
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TWIN NEEDLE DECORATIVE STITCHINGTh,1e following stthsan pi oduiee 4 YUsing one or more levers and] one 1PA SHi(IIN D isc at tihesaetrime as' liste-I,- lie b)ighit is limited to 3 a 4 th fth hng thI is, jet bet warn
25 and 0. Thesatin stitch foot is uise(I fhdw losed des~igns anAh clllii, and run fing stitcthes are dlone withthe general-purpose piesser foot,
Lever A and D Leve A, Disc 6
LeesA nd E Leve D, Disc 6
lever B and CLeveB, D'sc 7
Leves A, C andLover D, Disc
Lever E Disc 5 Lever A Disc 10
Levers A and a, DiscSLevrs D and E, Disc 10 ~
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FABRIC, THREAD, NEEDLE AND STITCH LENGTH CHART
MACHINE STITCH SETTINGS
THREAD NEEDLE FOR STRAIGHT SEWINGTYPES OF FABRICS SIZES SIZES - INSIDE TOP
SEAMS STITCHING
50 badly
filmy materials c~p. , .b l . to N ^ Chiff-, 10r, C 9 15 f. 20 1 5 to 20Silk nd Chiffoo V.i ets, Voll., M.0,, Ar, 5
NIc71 Th,d
10 E' , - , d iSheer matedols t p . , . b ; . to L~, D!-ity, 5, hete 8010G C 12 to 15 15 f. 70Sh.ell, POP.' TOff-f-1, PO,. Silk,, Gost. e Sitk,, Silk 01 50
SY.thelic T,;.1" 5"Ih.fi V.1ms, 5.ti
Light *isby moteidl , ".por.bl. Gingho Ch.-- 60 14broy, piq Popli, P.,c.le, C e f ~ e , ft, F.itte, B"1g.- to sp C , or 12 15 to 18li., W.1 wool J- , , -y, wool p, C'~ V.1 et, S k 16
ligh ight suiti95
to C.,dvoy, C , . ^ H.. y Dety M.,,Medium heavy M0f*110111 CO-Palabic 40 to 60 C O ~ 16 10 12GhodIne, Rep, H~ Biting% nd Couti gs Nylo. Thmad
Heavy materials o p.f.bl. t, Scileloffi, De Tickim 30 to 40 Cotton 18 10Th,..d
50 E,,broideyNyl.. Thre.d 11 O, 1 4 12
plastic materials 50 MetcK..d
Wh.,, .,dei i y, p. f, "Cl.,, .,,d V.,iety 206 . 13` .d tt.t. the i,. .dSes FOR. 43 , TWIN NEEDLES.
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UPPER THREADING-SINGLE NEEDLE
flase take-up lever 5 to its highest poil.t.1,6Ce dlrca,) m pool pm wol 1101d 'ith right hand.Lead thread wo 'clf lond, 1 fflon under side,
1),o,11alld from fight t,, left (r ill froin of Beratetelision disc 2 (CeotT, disc ,Berate, liars for", i"g.)
hao the 1.01, of the spling 3.L ..1,r the sia, k thread t,1 1, 11(1l-om right to left through 1wic ill 1,Yer
lil,,,ugli gtlii,- 6 arod 7 on ho.c pl ic1m, guide 8 (.it wooille darnll,From fact lo Ilack through eye d needle 9.
6 about tw, iv,,lies of threal through eve of needleith ,hich to Earl se.i.g.
7
9
9 3
I'ig. 7. Threading Tensim, Fig. 8_,ri,,,, o, 1,ppr The,.ding t to R... A
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TO REMOVE THE BOBBIN
1 Bring h-u ' rto it- ~- 1 101fl1.
CoA~~~~~~~~~~~~~~A pn1bi; lt 1C
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............... H
Allom letisi(ii F, Fig. 14. to controlflow of thicad st, that it wimls on bobbili inu n i foi n l. Im e l 1 g if s. Do ii, kt lguide or Holdthread Ishell 1,ili.firl" 1.. 'bilk.
15 The bolfbill milider mill op iiU[olllzlticalt11afid ilii el 11 xitil ["I t harld, alld li) right, fland. 1... ,ii Aol) Illotom S is lilt Lit, ll
1). Rei l lovt , bo l lb i l lroill and retighterl ci-tm J. Fig. 15.o fland alled lion) -1it"ilill"iiitij a,, shoff 11
NOTE: If hobbin (foes not mind loosellsk.lem 5 ti,,11 flolds tension bracket F illff(,itiotL and move brackei to the fff't ifbobbinmind, oil illf- right: llloxf- bracket to the
if' llobbill millds fliLl) oll the le )ia k(.t i, proper-R cent, A v( llv across bobbill. Retightell telision
sci eff,
3. 1101d Cod and contioller Bobbill call be m ili, machine i x.wijig.edal a for (wiilg. E'Ild 01' thr(lad tvitl belield until it break- off.
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TO THREAD BOBBIN CASE TO REPLACE BOBBIN CASE
1 o that thicad Bill tilisitil ill bw,dil-cmon shomil.
31 r a -p lix d 1 m cac b c I \1 c e I Ilel 1 t h u m b alldllold bobbin case as -1tomn awl plalc folefingell, at hi le l l poillt a, shomi.bobbill irllo it.
bobbill ase to cil.
A
I ip, 1k 92. Pull 111r,ld jiltl, slol K. undersiritig 1, and ill[o An NI m vild ' alld pn-S folX; Ill-cad lo maill-t bobbill clese until it sliap- ill 1,ace as, k% tiller illdle, ol tI rec f lo i l l
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FOR GENERAL-PURPOSE STITCHING
This SING ER Class 3201K maclinte comes arid presser. foot have I he same ide opeloirgequipped with five built-in stitch desigtis. ole to accommodlate tile jugilof thle fnedle. Will]removable FASHI-ION Disc, a General-purposethe eq uipmen istued bet tthe maih inf aunThroat Pla te 1733(13, and( a (Genreraiklpurpse perf'orm st raight z.-/i~2ag or openl or namne ntalHlinged Presser Foot 105250. Th is throat plate stit ching.
0 Ji~~k'g.4.flurgcd I reser Pondt
ofl~~~fl Ct 7996
17g 23)Gen~reral-purpose Tboa P4ate i, it], gujide'lilies I'Or scami " idthl ga uged from centre
onedehole aid] cross linies for gaugirilgsquare (ornlers,
Rei2 bl Fig- 25. SutchJ LeversYAIINDis,A, B, C, D, E
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TO PREPARE FOR SEWING
ZIGZAG STITCHING -Set bight lever aflon S ,,Id biglit leser 1' as shomn ill liesil.efl 1 a11k]5 a, shomn in Fig. 28Fig. 26 Set stit, i levers in (lomii%ai,(1 posi- zill(l lift Zi.,zag Le er A, as sh(m 11 n Fig. 29.ti(jj, s sli(is i in Fig. 27.
T
fig 26 ng. 28
Cl
Fig 2, fig. 29
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TO PREPARE FOR SEWING (continued)
g ~~~~~~~ ~~~ig.
1Fig. 321 / 2. IPull up needle tht ad and bobbin thread
ill " m e n~ithi it, as II(IWII il lFigs. 30. 31nd 32.
Fig. 3u 13. LIo both threads back1.1101( nd of needle thrad uinder plsreer root oiagonallyilt left hand and turn hand de feed tpo the right or leftwheel towan] ou until needle \ t/ Itplilig upon which side ofgues down an-l up again. and liee dc the material is to betake-up leder retaurup to itsocated. See Fig. 33. vilebeighest point. rhe presser foot is lowered the
threads will e irmilv held be -t wuen tile feed and tihe presser
FIg. 33 foot,
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TO START SEWING TO REMOVE THE WORK
1 1;rillg take-up lcier toit, point. Place Ina-terial under presser I'ool.
21 Position needle ill the
3. IA)wer f(hot. 11old 1hread.,d l a w n tea
flic back tile right ig 36killdcl. tile, foot, 1,1 es cow
[)civil to start machille. 1,11C '11ced depelld', 37uj),l file Ito,kInt of 4, Stoll machine mith take-upoil file controller pedal. lever at its point.1
5. Raise foot. draw fabric towardtbe back airs] Id't and severthreads oil thread cutter.
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TO REGULATE LENGTH OF STITCH
straight slitching 'I'lle ill the 1,0) 11(.lcrse til, Illirection of Feed-Tolc I I [I it, -t it( 11 i I Id i, ,it )r 11, denot c t he feel] [lie Illifterial t o w a r d Noill. the level.
litlifilo - od pel itlkll Q , Fig. 10 as fat a,, it %iil Ir',). The Illachille,,'Al Illell slit, 11 in a reverse ifirection, thusZigz l t , , stitching 1 lit, ic loaking it casN to 1)ii(k titcii" and to faslellb( I kk(" t 1keed 1 cIw 11 et 1 at i1 1co [It] .1 1 cd I's
tilt, stitch regulatkil.
R STITCH LENGTH FOR SATIN STITCHING
Lo, 1 Stlen1(,(, cii Ifillit s c r e w R $tit, Ii 1 .. l F iP,'
top of stitcli regulab r Ixner zitill stil(,llillg, Fig. 12. i klont,Q to be jail[ belok, Icker Q mA 25) and 0Torn billit I k, It until top of it( i lexer Q fi(,,itioll cilld will, the satill slilch F00tri-e, l,' Fig,41.
29
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G, iC .. iiid) TO START AT GIVEN PLACE IN A DESIGN
Allile slitellillt,' 011 a scrali of material. set Sliti 11oil a s 'at) of material until that p,ult
stitch regulatoi lever at 25. thell carefully alld in (11l. is readled which i, to besil)lY1.y furn lilifit ,Lr,,,, R unfil 11re 1pkicell closely togethel, alfio ng rilat rial to 'Wed. RCullol. (la[) frolit under llic foor.feed smoothly and t"kctlf "itil(ut irl.x",Lllalit
The exact settini, A the lor atil) slitching lAl xan mith the tex.
lure ff the fabric. the anuumi (f
bobbin thread and itit the operator(Iep(.]'(lillg upon 1%Iit-iliirAw hollis if)(, fabricfirmly or A allil lighthandling are it for satin stitching.Fo' )t 105251 proside- a for sIi,,stwhing art(] gixes sinooth uniform results.
f lolel or )t-t fabric, give bei rig. 4,3 g, 41mill-11 filAed moh crisp faiin. 1Thr, barkm, r
alay (.lost. 1,, the slitchill, lihen "ork i,coinpit,'1fl. I'lace work under needle, u,,(I
hold thread ends, drop presser filol andWhere satin or desigo ii( hill, j, 1, l , done This proct.dure i, recoullacalled f.,r siall,,1)irig(11a single thickness l 1, fic gal mellt. it ImAing and stil('1)ijllg"itit all FASHIONis essential oil most f bri1c.. 1 Dises.
30
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BIGHT CONTROL
,i111 ZIGZAG AND S'URAIGHT are,tIAiglit pr, ... 1 Fig 16, and 'ith et........ plat, 17, i:lIEt,
[bloal plaw 1(11242, Fig.15.
For traight I aiI,1,,it), iIlli"a 'cl Al ibi.... ]eve, S it) Fig. 19, or of 111cit,,, i,,11,el 'ditch haI, a I'oft.1,,,,r 'I at me. lift 4, art'] solmId all il"ll F,,r Z;,.""irt At . ootlid at 1. 2, 3, 1, upo,
([I,- If slit, Is poileo, i""-. S,c et at It, -1,oo ill Pig, 19A.
4f)
F,, lo,k kV,, 1, for T itching, bri g -0- eelik IX;
P,,sIt, 101 Iif ila,X1M k yll 1 1 1 T S T 1)P
S(A(EAXX, ilt,,I 1..........W moc biLlit At TONIATIC S111AMING, requIrc, fit,, salt,,
1 X Ie. 1 until it n. ,)ace, z ... 1 for zigzag Iil"ilittg,th, notch! digit rotielitene 13, D, E or all, J lic added FASHION
; .Y to, lit additi,1)11' of leer nay, (11 t,,1o product, In unlimited variety 'It (.Able
Fig, 1 bination titchs.
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INTERMEDIATE BIGHT REIGULATORS`*EW I If 711. 11 a. spring-stop for a desired ininimunt 1 git This spring-st,,p
v v cart bc passed aver to zer(, bigit
U U These stops Fle., ,a to (perate the bigitt leverniaiiiiallv ber.cen i,,1 F.oitilifil thout continualrefeteri, to the it" 1,ile searing F'or example- TOlinlit zigzig stitching [,,,teen .111 1 -f-
an, t 1 htlever at WAX Mt NI BIG i E
W X W X STOP SCREW X, they, tiglttn T,. m naliallumition '1-, 't bi-fit ],,,e, ., that ar,'). v is at "1",
flo.sell INTERSIE'DIATE BIGHT REGULATORFig, st) StMEW7LI aid nioxf. it IF, r dofi until you feel the
Eumb cagaged, thell lighten "re. U. 11,: faght lever 1 r10 seF to linut the maxifflam bight at ---` and theBIG111,1,LE1 Ell 1. Fig A, Ille A (ther lanit, ich it, -1- and '3"
o' or ---` art,] -3- can he obtained in tbe slrje alanner,Alit t'l' SCALF. i mrkel ---W, ,' Ead) lime see,Fig. 51.
"O' and -5, the 'd liat, Wher, free m,),tynent If in,, logitt lever i, desiredWrn 111,o a 1"""inillill of 1)etlet'rl totro and a gill billd, 11 shotild lie
ni ed don as fir a., it if) In, anti thenliglltellel. S,,,,v X is ,,d t,' 1 it the maxialumIMAH' INDRATOR. krr,,, li is tlit. .. irk t,. fight.
,,hich [ht i11Ow bight 'cale iZE1M nolwatc, "tri.,g fin strifight CAR TION: When 1'nrnal [,bat,,%I IIIIAVI, 161212a, SIrwitill V'e-e, IT 'W are
1,gi t, 1,.,er T nit[.( 1... ... 1 at 0, needle mnst$ad xim Ial -it I f, ,f st,1, 1) ,r s I. t, fi pat tern ,hea he' at ecalral lai r,i set at
MAXIM1,111 BIGIVI, STOP SCREg X fb, tent vil.k,. any zigzag elitoli, nefolhi jansilionthe of ffic I,. it "a,][[, nI, stitch lever adjustivient. whilt. necille is inof 'fild, 1,-, lhitn 5 et a it gi,, i material.
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32
NEEDLE POSITION CONTROL
RIGHT
LEFT CENTRAL
Aid! ;, 1 fill - 4
tbC '11A. ll, \X h, II t i'm 1, S S"t n, thl i, "T at tile as' i, t,' till. fight, a' Ill.'
m Fig 52. th, hil.l. 1,.a ill Fig 53, jllIll 41' tile ill Fig, 54l .,,,1 a Ill, 1,iiht i,at tfill 1,11 fill- b igh t i, 1...... .. 0 --- ,' k ,d 11 o I'. L-, "
11, - - - tile Birdie a.hg, 1q..W 11', "di, (,X,. TIT,
5 he fTylan L. th. 1,ft and right ICIL11. right, a, Al.... 1, ill,,_, 1....... ill Fig. 53A. Fig. 54A.tli, lxtr.lt,,,, 11 l a 1111)-11
ill Fig. -52k f, -
-olle pos i t io lk a n d s t i l e l l ill(AITION: IXft Itc(l(lic Pasition. riAlt lit'( )Ijte, t( l . ,jit( ililig as well a, zillz1"
a 1( L, , l )lily ,itll Ific
Raisc 1 1*.111, 1ALOf fli)ri(l 1HfOrt. ci)ttglgitlg 110sitiOlls Of hight etkiltr(>1. n e e d l e p o s i G o l lalld ,til( i ll, glrs.
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33
TO CHANGE FASHION DISCSRaise licedle out of matelial. Place FXSMON Pic on '11aft o Illat
pin A2 engage, at it)( B2.
Set slitell Imers ill --- own,' position. Replace frill 1 and ti"lil(ri To avoidFAS1110\ Dise mui
Reimoe knurled nut Y. be lield ill position firrvil.
set bi-lit and 1...sitioll levers to de-Grasp edge- of FASHION Dic Z and it sil-CII ll.tlil) 's 'All plocced It, for regularofT shall. sem i I tz,.
A2
y
1 g, 55. Stj, 1 R mm Knudd Aw Fig. ), 2, Changine FAMPON 1)i,
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TO REGULATE PRESSURE ON PRESSER FOOT
'I 'lle Ille ca v
a -calil arldFlo -looll.1 Im- A2of
vilwel tal and li"ltt -'ll lo f al 1Ikitholit
' I ' l le u i 1w c f i i I i on a a, t l ic i l
a r n o u n t of Inc-ure to br'lled. I'lle Abettor] m Lice ol lliniz and pd.
il !x 1 ill, 1,3osk, nal, orlace ol zilitit h e d e e p jok-d ' u l f ace o 1 0w delo-ateand broken Airline of la- oilrequire a
T u , 't light
A2. Fig. 5-, liii"IEI] trill tilllt'i( nlost' I'"il1111(ler pif-ser f.... t mthout Aippillg and s th-
toll feed maiks,
Toset a A2 I ]g, f i g h tuntil ilic labric paAly and Thumb 8, rou
the calit Airs 'afried (Aids], b the fooland [lit, fecd. labric, 1 ke t(l" . Lighi
chclulle, Wquill. licavier
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TO REGULATE PRESSURE ON PRESSER FOOT
AIRS g~~~~~~~~~~
4-
h ~ ~ /
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NEEDLE THREAD TENSION C2 B2
Thread for Straight Stitching
P or it('liillg. ilic oil 110`1111still thicad, 11111-t b, cliough topull 1, of material and make afirin -tio b,
,rg,Regulate Needle Thiread TensionThe tension oil needle thread can be tested
silly whell presser fool is down.
The nurnerals -0- io 'Y' on dial B2 indi-cate difl'(,re t of tension that call be
'I'll, 11wher the norriber the greaterthe Th clitimbers 1 not denote sizeof thread.
XX en ha, becii correctly sel for aser,age llow nurnber at irelicatoi line C2.'flis sciting mus, be (InAly regained shouldnthe 1clisioll be alteled for special m A orchange ill ol, thicad.
Fig. 59
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NEEDLE THREAD TENSION (continued)
In the titibalan(,vd tesions of Fig. 59. ibeneedle thread lie, straight along top side of 5material, caused lo; too heavy tenlsionl onlneedic. thiread.
In the unbalanced tensions of Fig. 60. thelbobbin thread lies Straiiht along under side of L.t.~rd
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TO REGULATE BOBBIN THREAD TENSION
'llie tension nil thicad is rclnl te(l bXilic laiger scram 11(aic tile contre of the terl-siofi spring, as Aiowil it, Fig. 61.
x licti 'lill,,titlg bobbill thicad a -lightturn A Ille i all thal is Iweded to Inakea fine aIiii-ltiI, it, [)(Abaft. 111C still l ilgt oftelisjoil frorll er( 1o il list xi In 11XI] X,
it fl ill Im 1 f te 1 rxL I 1 a 1 1 rt Im
To ill(,rea e ttil-if)kl. turll Illis "rlkltl lli~ r to the 1wh'
'Fo decrease still this screw gralluall.yover to the left.
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BOBBIN THREAD TENSION (continued)
Willd bobbill mith a 51) vard spool of finesilk thread.
lhicad bobbin camand telision sothat k iglit of bobbin
cask, xsitli a bobbin of50 \aid, of finc silk
1k1 M11 callc the case toin Aide when beld
Iisl)(tiixIefl 1) th(1o-cad, Sce Fi9. 63 .
l ,[ col fbet tensloll,flowloval (1 11mc-
111c111should be veryslow.
..........Fig. 6,3
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satill Stitching NEEDLE THREAD TENSION
S till stitelliog all(l (lid, closed itch- Aw111.1 bca lighter ncedle thread tension kicked mith frill basisill,, require
1tlIM1 for straiglit itching or open design and th ' Iiilt
stitching, should 1, (,t at l 1,-_bown ill Fig. 66. Fg, 66
Wide satin stitching re-flilire the lilditest S~jog tension. Set the ten-
sion dial so the indica-tor ]isle is between 0 andfig e i as in Fig. 64.
At -0- thele Alould 1, a very slight pull oiltlicre 11 a ininfinum
te l l s iow
For narrower satillstitching. Aightly 111ore10,11sioll nray be tie(l. Setthe dial between 2 nil 1.
C,,hyl Aria S,, ....it SIinho', n ill Fig. 65.
rig 6,-,
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SHOULD IT BECOME NECESSARY TO REMOVEAND DISASSEMBLE NEEDLE THREAD TENSION
Illri theill, wit E2 1,, th,' 1, t G2, pm,, wdni. thmith i,,t Ied r ..... . it,tntil -0- m illl G2 m It ... .... 11'n FI rt, Imm 'I'ld N2,L2. T.' ,Adroit, pie F2 it thlexil, I .. E2 Lid 1"ig 69. Do not o,c stod N2
TO REASSEMBLE AND REPLACE NEEDLE THREAD TENSION
kLike sure that pr, R2 i, in pit e m m snid "ill, J2 th IN2, tile part, (I,, ti,, tkjl N2 ae it dear, tl,,, fir r (bait) ,i in ,,Field , t.
llic M2 it[, ifi, G2,,i 'I I"] th 2 1'-rtfi,k flat dic tit. 02Tfin rflae the 1 I,("[, 1i,,i n:12 , ,1.. t side ....t, Ill t,,] Ind m [he It,,,, --- ,-, 1 .....1,ailli plu, and ni Ill lizrI It U'll, then I. 111,, tiIg jils) F2 ,Iit ,, ;,,, 'I Ill,,K2 it. if,,, ii,,t h ailj 'A lhi, G 2. 1....... lu,',Drill,-, r.,i.lli,,g the b,,c. half ,f th,' Pbl,' tgIl, E2 n, 1,,ft ... iii 4) 1t11 2
i... 1,2,M11 02 P2 02 p,'ll t,.
b-1 I thwad atE2 G2 J2 L2 0
H K2 if iii le, ' JigfitF 2 , [I,,]] m tile kh','.d 1,1 lliA
Iltere i, a ... m! ...... l,iti, the tuming
E2 ti, 0,, fidit, lim.'thme a till] Tance ''t tk,11,Ii l, itfi
'd Ibumb 'n't, Iffor a minit ....TI
ill dol 4,2 tiga , tilt F2 i,, k"t ir"T" dial, and
Fig, `Ki W'dic 4. .... 11,1)
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1'n the 1hrnalreset Pot in 1 .. if li es at left of pr, ' ] ... Setting,'['fits rrselling "ill lind ....e lcs tersien at -- - -1 Repeat fiicrili,,1 ,itf, machme, ib, M1 fe .n t hts proces it Ft if 11 it i ll u m desired terlsion i S 1 the Idal, t,' 1111, f ... B3 and
"!,] a, it, Fig.70k. h o l dr ' . if,,, plat,ilita ned. to if,, [,ft.
If there is no tensi (,it at prCS, M dial G2 and, f e t lon F2 ,, Air in oric al holes at right of pr,' ion,,Acting,, 'Ling tili I'lroce', until a 'light linnifilumtelisi("i is 1he on thread take-lit,lpring 02 and str,,k. of illis'Slrici Alcluld be just ,fficiont to lake p slack of it edle t read lintil int.f needle reahe, fabric in its descent.
To adjust tension oil thread take-up syring 02. removetension 'li",,2 ge ce, f Spring from f-ig . ...... 1, 21 OW, low ,wn stiall. spring, and fla,e ill insrt th, ill, theend ill e le,", which produces Correct tension. 1, i, oild ..... th, pim, und'-r [lie edg,
pido.. A -1 .... . n Fbit. 71(th. l,'),h theth, as ft,, a, it ,ill l l in it
To regulate strolo. of thread take-up spring 02 llial if,, pin, B3 oel doy, th,screw Q2 Fig. 69, and linn the thre',d take-up it, th, piat,'spring regul ll tor 112, Fig. 69 ontil strokeis then tights, screw Q2. C31 B3
TO CHANGE THE THROAT PLATE`ti,h o I'lir')at
Th',, 't 1,13t, I'Litc,tw e'll, 1, ii Fi,,iiit ,,[ the
1,, , . at it, . .it, d all,[ et 1,izlit 1,.,er
g 7PA. W1,1... in Th ..... Ill,t,
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TO SET TWIN NEEDLES
Tlis rna,hine a806xi Twin Needle insiz 3/4.henur ng o tile needl1e indicateBtile ~pacing (8) and si, of thenedl (14).
Follow procedure, described for setti irg singleneedle (see. page 17).
CAUTION-Before stitching with Twin Neec.dies he sure the needle position lever is set atcentral as shown in Fig. 26, page 24 andthat the machine is operated at a bight notexceeding 3. Set hight limit screw X, Fig. so, LON GROOVESpage 31 to lock the bight lever at the point TOWARD YOUdesired but not to exceed 3.For TI'gil \eedle " ork thle wide slotted th1roatplalte 17i3303.:1 lind eieslte en prPose press~er foti 105250 tsr thel satin stltebto it 10.5251 must hr, uAed.len'~litvlik-d,solid patterll, require hesliltat in *itlloid "ibile sir tight itte'ltinlg. scallopinig *,,t ru-tirtingz stitelh desigti.5 arert more ieffriiveh dlone,',hit, the genra-rj,* rswr~l too, 'al.njur
to [St' tite irtiper- tilttat [late it les feetvpng Mid blu 4 or break Fig. 71. Inser.,ng Twin Needles,Into
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UPPER THREADING-TWIN NEEDLES
Place a ])(i)l 011 e ell Of tile tw15 'P(Yxl Pirls.
Thread each pc)jIlt with belle thread at a tillic ill the wilemanner as for llglfl lleedle threading with of theIt-ikioll. Pass one thread between the ".or and centretension discs and the "cond thread between the cent"and front tension discs. T1117C111 01C
6 (.ye Of needle fr(M front to back.iilil 11'd (,r" or billd caell
Start Lo tw with thread, inthe sanw s i r as mhen stitk lil",' will'Single
4
3 3
109 5
F1
IS
TWIN NEEDLE STITCHING
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1 51t iuiea~puro~ urootPiat , entvia NeedirProe p(emraI~purp PreI''sser loot 0 Bight
Fwin Netsdi. 2 to 2.5 ~ltSirnipd decorative stitchinlg is effective whtlmised Ito proiduce a .design of straight or diagonial
lilies of sliteli ing. The two threads, carriei ))vthe twin itcedlet interlock wit t singlebobbipi thread and whenl the teniolns arein creased t, labric bet wee a the linles ofslti[citing is raised.
When stile)inag paale l iJs 'acng sh ouldbe -such that foot does 'tot ridle over a
prtitou edyrow, unless when usin g a 'gIJU ?vr dtStth yspcartucking foot (seForni K6071I) with
parali ci clearance grooves iii its -ole p~roviidetfor tile air tulks previouslY seWn. MIake thec second eigh1th turn of the fabric.
Allow tihe in'side needle to u n - f o r tile thirdSquare corniers are made by ttrliuig twice tinme initt thie corner stitc enertin Colwhilel the needles are out of the fabric. ftiuc to) stitch in ait rasight hoc),. Wiuc dewigStitch unftil the inside necedle has reached he is Completed draw t ilreakii to, liep iiii1l Ad k-corner. Raise presser foot when needles are anti~ouit of the fabric. Make a one-eighthl turn of Select thread) ota size, alrrlat or ileitzsuthe fabric, allowing the inside needle to enter oif Ileedit' being usd s Avci iat, a thread appro-for thle second lime into thle corner sfltitci pria te ft r the fa brie. Tic Fa Ip icTre . Ipenetration. TIurn hand wheel unt il the Needle anti Stitc 1c(iiutith Charnt onl Page 16needles go clown andi uip again anti] rise ouxt of is a helpful guide.the fabric.
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SEWING SUGGESTIONS
Brealcing of needles rnight be caused by. 2. floblon thread tension too tight- see Pages 36 tO12 .
1. W reng size f needic for thread an(] material - 3. Bent Boblon.see page 16 4. Damaged Bobbin Case,.
2. Wrong throat Idat, or presser foot for the type of,eork being Ale, Skippin . of stitches might, be caused by.'3. Wro Setting if necille position 1,.ver anti or 1. Wrong setting of needs,, -- ,,cc pages 17, and 43.Ofe , r --- 2 Needle blunt or bent.bight ,q, Pages 2t :to, 31 and 32.4. pulling of Iiatei.1 -hen slitelong-sce page 27. 3' Needle ton small for thread -See Page 16.51 ....sely laSt,nd foot or fittings. 1 Damaged presser foot.6, Wrong class of -see page 16. 5, Damaged throat plate.
Breaking of needle thread miglit be Looped sti tching might be caused by:1. Wrong threading-set, Pages 18 and 44.
cauzied by: 9 Tensions set incorrectly- see pages 36 to 42.). A knot in thread 3 Needle too fine for thread used.2 Thread too 1.all, for ," ' l ie -sisc palu, 16. Improper presser foot.3. Wrwig threading sce iyag('9 18 Und It.4 U p p e r tension to,, tight---see Pages 36 t. 12. Cathering o r P u r h - c r i n g of m a t e r i a
it. Needle blunt 111 Act. 17 and 91. atiglit be caused by:6, Needle set in .... rrectly see pages,, Houglictield hols in throat plate. 1 Failui, t, L .. it i k)8, Wrong wrangenent of threads Boot' starting to %Deal
,,,y see page 2.1. 'he,r 111 t(iii;il,9, Needle thretol tension too light and thwad10. Dmaged 11-ing, book 3 l iop rop , r 1...... t foA
I m a c h i n e runs heavily, after t.t ... dh, h,'Breaking of bobbin thread ntighl hi, 11 negpclexl, apt,[., a fl,' 1,,,p, 't Imiallin at .11caused by.. Ability, Tun the tic, hin, i,,r a le', Illillllt, ,
the1. Wrong tilCadilg 01 [,oblon case, See page 22. pages 47, 48 and 49.
if the oficred here do ... correct your scoing looflems. call your SINGER SEWING CENTRE.
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PROTECTION AGAINST RUST DAMAGEyour (,"illg niathoo. 5,a. [olilt to "laf ilig.stall(lar(l and lts perforin.
trealment it receive, Ithen ill uto.and
1,iil( alld ]Ale if' not rellooed pli,r jo bill, 41tiriti, litilylil
.3 ("I' 1f11.111' ailfl lo'l(l Illoi 111'1 11111- ccelerate filt flarnageCLEAN llighh poli-fled Illread flandling alld otlivi- [,arts. TheAND extent of 1-ti flarnage stould depelld upoll the 1c111,111 of tino. tilt,011 Inaelling, Exltlilitl(.(1 in idle slora(l ill an kinkentilated allic or
toorn.
suddell (frops ill temperature aill niciitiilt to form on pai.t'Allich it' wit loote(lial by filir, oI (,ii \x)iild rii and damage thile
CLEAN in Ioi.a,,t..
CLEAN Ploper 'forage Call, tho[ough 1,rtiIi-(,it aiiiiig to renooe allAND CLEAN Inoil,' 111, int dillffills, lo, smabbill, of, all llo, exposed part,OIL mit 1 a Ifill-free Llulil, saturated mili SINGER (,if. Sec. Fig. 5A lot.
the awas mhil i shouldbe
cleaned and (oilled
titl) a protective coatof oil.
gig. 75 .1
48
TO OIL THE MACHINE
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TO OIL THE MACHINE
p r e p a m t i o nRm,,, fl,e plate tt(l throat plat and S.ing, ha'],,,,er Abate ea r l 1.. d heeL
dut and lint 'all brusb.X XI 11ON: [),I ....
AliensAill
U2-
52T2 Y1
Fig, R,,r Viett, Shnuing Oiling
oilingPO111114I'It Al tI '11
,7, -18 and 74.
Fig, o. bront 1 i shonwig Oiling Point,' Motor lteiltlirt., No Lubricatimi.
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lRernrve feec plate 52. Fig. 76 by taking olit thumbs~l r T2 and slipping plate uplanid off secrw at U~2. Oil thepDoiits indicated in Fig. 78 anid then repalace(plate S2 .
U2~~~ Apply ~~~~arop of oil to race of bobbinl Case holder as shownill Fig. 79.
Fig. 78. Fnr Platc Rcnio,cd], Fig. 7Q. Oiling Point inShowing Oiling Points ClbhscIole
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51
LIGHT
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LIGHT
I0 tur) light 1i reacb oxti dioClinc rlln ad111 tu1il swiitclh X2,Fig. 81, to right lTo extiiiguislr tril sw-itch to left.
Y2 X2 A3
A3 ~ 92
Fig. 82. RrmotringLOKfig. 81. SINGER Light and RFplaing the, LOCKS
To remove the Bulb
Grasp light socket so that thumb extends over switch X2. Then press UNLOCKSshade with thumb at Y2 to release shade from two catches and slide it Fig, 83. Lrockineorhalfway out of shade holder A3. Then press bulb in to socket and at Un/Aoking BRul, Pinsame time turn bulb over from machinie as far as it *-ill goo
to unlockpin Z2 (see Fig. 83). WVthdraw the bunl).
To Insert a NYetw BulbPress bulb into socket and turn it over toward machine until pin Z2enters notch in socket (see Fig. 83). Return shade to its normial Fig.81 In.rrgposition as shown in Fig. 81. Thdit in Socket
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FITTED DARTS
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FITTED DARTSDarts ale al flo. j)..irlis lm slit( h.
K,11, 1 1 1) e fill) r ic a Ill) u I , iv I j ill 11 t, 1 ( 1 11 I
hai l l . 'Fic I f ic c ( ha i l l ed tlit" fis i plaillkum. 11c List titl-et, t, f(kil still hill (1 a
aild parallel 1,, 1111. bl. resulting ill aSmooth of' the garllittitTORSO OR SHAPED DARTSTOrs, and shaped ]art- are strorigei arill rijo, c flexibl,Nvllcli stitched kitl) a sha l l o s s zil,,zi,,. sittell t b e f loul t ,
fur a distaliCe (It Ille able[) litli'lli.aiglil slitching.zigZag fenire pollwil,
1,1,1, mol trader FootFg. 8--- Dnt Thre, (:,astral Needle PoitionR'ing Tod 11.1o 1 Bight
25) Slilef, for Zigz,.g a ... 12 Stit,h fo, straigit F1 lm
Le il.'n'
CONTOUR DARTS IN INTERFACINGSContour ]arts in interfacings provide pernia,nent shaping without bulk mben (kit, lappedand zigzag stitched along raw 1Ages as i xi
0 j Fig. 89. 'I ic dait is ofien cut amay edgesd lnith straight gl ;labutted art(] stave stripof muslill as in Fig. 90.Use: Plate all Pr ..... Foot
Central Needle posili ... 1J`lg. 89. Contour Dart 5,Bight 6mm..mommW
Along Hail E4e, 25 stall,l^er B Fig, 90. Cont,,.r Imrt
o'll, Allotted Edg,
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ZIGZAG SEAMING
Afler (,ariis hale beell and filted, rilark(aillille of, 'Caill oll 1)"tl Section, ofrail[) liand 1)zltitig. illat (-alllsalli L mleme, [i(it ovel. "itil 'cailllines matchillg aild hand baste. Inalk-i: , Satill Stit,1, 10.5251 i, u kA11f'(,11(, ,kjlliflt (1 lzltf inotil that ruil,through scam lalk.
Cut away exces cam ul) bl Ititt'llill4 011 11(1111,111ht am1 minlig silles, lising curved em-broidery
111-0,r L.,
Plate JildSittel, 1 ),,i 105251
oind Needle' PwIlt
Abosi: 2 ) Siffi Ii
hg, 9h Lan,
0r
CORDING SEAM WITH SATIN STITCH FOOT 105251
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105251grigr . Place a thread through Ihe eye at the froit of the foot and
_ . i lead it unde-reath thr foot. Cover thread "iitii closdlvi. r 5 I : paced zigzag stitches.
UsYe: (eneral-pu rpo se Thlroati [ la te and Satin Stil1h loot
r~si i ri.:i~i ......... _ i It).251_MgAK3. (orafirttrn .Srsat.... Rha ( Ceniral Needle Position
. o10,;251 2 BlightAXhove25 Stitch
HAIRLINE SEAM IN SHEERS Lever AFor a dainty hairline seam in sheeers that is also fray-proof. folhlowshaped seam lim sth a ile cording stitch,then r o t surplus seam away close to line of stitching Thistype of seam may be used either inside or outside. hfg. 91. Ucdrhnen&rn in Sheers
RIP-PROOF SEAM FOR LINGERIEf or rip-proof seams in lingerie, first straight stitch fittedseam on wrong side and press both edges to one side.Use: 0 Bight
15 Stitch for Straight StitchingOn right side of ga rmen
tI tops itch witb a fine zig-zagstitch allow~ing needle to enter alternately chanrij otr ir* isearn and seam thickness.
s1e: General-purpose Thioat i'Iate and General-purpose* 9 -. . r . .ji I~~1re~~serFoot
tentral Needle Positionlig. 95. Rip-proI Sinm to, LingorDi 2, Stight1
lAcer A for Zig-zaigStitching.
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57
STAYED SEAM FOR JERSEY OR CREPE
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Seams ill fabrics thal stretch oi bias scains ill firm fabricare often stayed 5,ith searn tape for durability. Poslitionscani tape mith edge exactly, on seam line. If scain iseerie , shape searn tape [)V steaming at the ironing hoard.lland te if necessary. S'litch with fill(. zigzag stitching.Press seam open, after clipping (ill curve.Use: C Throat I'Litt. anti presser Foot
Central Needle Position`2 tit 1 BilAt12 tit 25 StinIll
Fig, f)3 StaedS,,,n in Ixicr A
OVERLAPPED SEAM FOR INTERLINING
Tilt. earns id all interlining ale always overlapped toa oif bulk in a garment. Cart, must be taken toti,e 1111,ill[ ciiii all(t%%atiee.slitell in the (it' theOvellap mith filliltil)lt stitch ziI,,Z;Ig.Trini widthfront searn Thil (Detailingis thirable, flexible andf ee of ljulk,Use: General-purpose Throat Hate ant] Press,r Foot
Central Needle Position5 Bight12 Stitch 1 g, 99 ,Lever It lit,, Ailing."
58
SEAM FINISHES
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TO OVERCAST OPEN SEAMS
Ttlill [ANk
loc A, Gelw1A P111poc Foot and krpatelial o That swililil]4 to the light.picl, c, Inatelial Xac 11v al f-dge,1 po,, I'Lite alld Presser Foot
G-nual Positom2 Bolit15 Stil, 11
A
TO FINISH SEAMS IN TRICOT OR SHEERSS[cp 1. Slitch sealn til short strai"l)t tiltililig Fig, 1(m)li lig Sti i"'ilt Stitching ThloatStitcilillg Presser root. Support noncrial mhenStitching as described oil page 27, IDStep 2. Finish earr, edges tf9Mher with stitchillg
1 with the Blind Slitch Disc No. 3. Trimserial close it) it-liillg. '1'[lis firtish pre-velli, and provides a fine smooth edge.
'I'llroatPble and M cser 1oot
Cenital Needle po'ition1 2 Ito-dil
2.7) slilell ly , 1(1, Se,.. in Tri, o?Blind Stil i Di., \o . 3
TO OVEREDGE SEAMS
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TO OVEREDGE SEAMS
slipport tile g rtii, rit and a durable finiAl if fii is 1, 1, yfl illtaili(,(]aft,r lon'. -1och Illade tli the Iflilld swill Di,( is durable alld frel, ofbulk mhen bind a, a
'When - ain edge, art, til( are a n d kkl)Cllfiressed lilev alC
1 c: 111alg, Z11)11 les-er FoolG-rllial1 ,r 5 Bi-All25 Siii, hBlind Stil( h Di-f N . 3
Fig. 10-, 0Leredging Seam 101 Oren-dging 0p,a hg. 10 1, h ,dgd OpenSeum, in (,,,,calling
60
TO SEW ON BUTTONS
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Plate 161238un, F'wt 189648
Lett3 flight
Stit(IlLecr X
iixith hight at 0. pAtion dr,p neAle through 'entre 'd left It,,],. ig. 10.5. ,,ing ... Bttw,1 iiix 1...... j bomm ,,,wing foot. Turn hand "bed 41,cr tomard y ... 1 Filitil
-st hight at approximawk, 3 or ,, that ticedle, on its right"ii.g, enter, Flinc ol right hdc. titAt. Needic should enwr cael,hol,' AX inne'. lo PomF stitelo set bight at 0 .....1 take 3 titliet it, left1...l,' ,I hotton.
TO SEW ON BUTTONS WITH THREAD SHANK
Follo. ttis outlined al .. c and in addition, hold pin or needle betweenbole, in to stin lies alld thread sliank. A long thread,h.tik retili,, ,tieii do,, end M s, ,ivig machiric needle is used in1,1Zoe 01 a pin, Tighten needle thread tension if stitches appear to be
Tg 106 Seamg ... Butt ..F, uill,
6 1
TO MAKE BUTTONHOLES
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TO MAKE BUTTONHOLES
MARKING LENGTH OF BAR TACKS AND
LINES CUTTING SPACE SIDE STITCHING MARKING THE MATERIALM,,,k the and 1,-ngth,,f
or Inarking ' halk. 'I'lle leri e'th of (tieLontollhole ill 1,0 the , tir)k spae plos 1, Ch forb., length o! spio, the F.eIiigtlb,(,igll liAi tbe bution passe, x' 11 the
iilli plu,' [lie thi, th, buttorl.
SETTING THE MACHINE
1n,: Le,,, Aleft Needle (Sce cage 32) N01'E: Blight 21 for md, tit, h,- and 5 forGeneral-purpose, Throat Mate far tak, mak, Fbr,Butwahol, Foot (See Fig. 10117, ~ 63) w i,,llt Bill theSlitd. 1,,,gth 25) T,m lit, Ii length and ori , lotible fold of2 Bight for Side Stitching th, ,atiic fabri, . ilo, IrwInde joiterf ,,i,,g if
bi,,djt rgulatir creS) (See page 31) this h,i, b"ll4 Bight for Bar Tacks (Use maxi ....... i hight
Aor, screw X) iSce pitg 31)
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63
TO MAKE BUTTONHOLES
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Raised or (G~im p Butttonholes
Itisert No. 8 perle Coitt ll or buittonhle(1 twistthiread thirough eyvelet inl fronit oif buttonholefoot. as showi ill Fig. 107 aid proceed as forrei'-tiar butt oihbt es a.rstr, ce oil pages61, 62 arid at the left.
F
(DFI NISHJING: To secure st hn.se t bighitlever at 0 anid take thr-ee stitchies. Removemoik arid drax. thre ad to Underside. fastell andtrim. With sharp) embroidery scissors cotopening fksr t he button. P g ma8 ounp tiohk
6 1
BLIND STITCHED AND DECORATIVE HEMS
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BLIND STITCHED HEMS WITH FOLDED EDGE
Blind Stitched hems arc appropriatle ir curtains, draperies,
ftblelinens and fabric ifurnishdigs. fold, press and bastehemn keeping basting stit ches at I ast i from tipper foldof hern.
i < f 2v~ l'Place h mr against feed. t i r in g tbe bulk of the work hackin a soft fold. Position needle into folded edge ol the hemnear this soft fold. Thbe Blind Stitch Disc produces fourstraight stitches separated bY a single sideward stitchi 1,. the
f _ i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . lleft. The sideward Slit ll shouldpierce the soft fold. re-uh-
itg in a Blind Stitchted hem. The highlt is regulated at 2 or 3.Vro/ XCi!,i' ./depeuing on the weight and( texture of th fabric.
The length of stitch regulates the distance between theBlind Stitches.
Is. Teneralpurposehroal Plate and
Zipper loot IH11274en t ra l to Left Needl.e Position2 or 3 Bight12 t o 2 5 S i cIllind Stitch Dic N,,. 3
X TIO'lN):I ..... nee position mostihlb.ed whell Ili.ll 1,hcd i t (ante r-.iu:i 1 is 5eilit Zipper 1 ou at ritght of leelle. S
6.5
BLEND STITCHED HEM FINISHED WITH SEAM TAPE
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fien's in skirts, dresses (1. xtra width at the topof t I I n' whoh fI be cOI s dc I d, Wher, the garment islared or eircular, thcre is more fullnes, ill the hem thall Illstraight eut I'llis fullness must be controlled beforetlic fievil is fillished. if a sillooth llern is if) rest;ltAfter the length of the garment i, marked, pin an(] baste
ith si I k t hread onil-, I u a i ler inch fro in Breast, of hern. Press,
to shape bern allomalice. then Inealuill. and Cut hern todesired widili.
1 1 LSw m 7ap,' l, lkm ful lness by placing a line of straiglit stitching one-E'dg' M'1o, 111ind Slil, Hi,,,, quar te r inch f rom top edge of fiern and draw hobbin thread,
casnn, fullness and shaping iop of leery to Steamto shrink excess fullness.
Basic and stiteli seam lape along this quarter inch controlthread. fland baste through eciltre lit' searn tape in prepara-tion for Blind Stitehiti,,,.
Position hern against feed uith inside of garment rolled tothe left to form a soft fold at basting ling.. Blind Stitell hernwith the marlone equipped as follows:1 Se: Gelo-l al-pul pose 'Ihroal Pla t e alld
Central if) Lf-it Needle1 to 3 Bight12 to 25 Stileli fi 11Blind shtch Die N( :I 1 its, S.....
o6
BLENDED CIRCULAR HEM
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( r(ular 11(,llis ill heavy coatings are, smooth]%,
Relics the fullness is removed, by Cut-ting a"av marry,%, at regular intervals toallow the bern to conform emictly to the Shapeof' the garment. The cut should not extendbeyond orle ivies iron] the lower fall of theIntent. Garments Inert, this treatment is usedare usually lined and the lining is carried toone inch from the edge.
Bring cut edges together and stitch withmultiple Slitch, Zig-zag Dise. Should the fabricbe loosely isoven an underlay. of thin lawnmay be used as a lay on the underside.
fg 113, Mend,d C', 11,m1 se: Throat Plate and Zipier
Vool from [of, edge of llem. will) zipper Foot:k 11 1a 1 N ( f, 11 P, it i B i te] lo right (,I lleedle. plate fien) 11,,Ailisi
Ifight feels and turn 1,1trEii,, ii (o forill a Al roll A
25 Shick Lasting line a, ill Fig. 112. palge (5.
The 'd the lit-ill i, fillisil,d by overed-, 1 Throat Plate1 t` Zipper Foot 101 127 ( al light d
with Blind Stitch Dise N,) 3 5 an(]1 Nee'lle Aightly Jelt of C'entre2.5 on W19C 59. Bight
,n t( CZAI. No,land baso. It, Incrof threc, ghth, inch Ith 1 Stitch Dils, l
67
APPLIQUE SHADOW HEMS
*Siadoiw lris hI tl f l 1Abl ii d4 li
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*Siadoiw lris un hIutl fol 1Able iiutd4 t, listpt,,, !_,rganier ile lincol. an Mr df s. or apronu of
sheer, crisp fabrics. laste hem to full depth of design,Y @ -kt Sl l l S l a x corners ntitred where necessary. Mark design on right
side. Draw filler cord through opening in front ofSatin Stitch Foot and follow design with fine. closelyspaced zigzag stitching. When applique is complete, cutaway surplus edge from wrong side close to stitching.See Fig. 136 for threading of cord. Note that cord is
l ' ig. 1 p p k q r S < Ie ino .....ss carried from the first threadguile doew betweei centre andfront tension discs, but no t
.4 3 jj j , X i . |nto take-tip spring. Carrycord into needle clamp threadguide and then throughi theopening in the front of theSatin Stitch Foot.
Use: Thlerol-purp>wehroatI late
Salin Stitch F,,t 1052.51J4 _ {. jlr~~~~~~~~~~~~~eral Nee l .3f ......tio.tt
17 i~~~~~~~~~LVer
i Ist. ruth / 6 4pph. to-. Shadeii It-ut'nrnpt.-rlS61ih1Ewrt "aih ilbr is,
68
EMI1ROIDERED LACE OR VIENNA WORK
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Finbroidered ]e or Viellfii Work is charae-teristic of high-priced lingerie. Yet it may bc verv
"itliSaiiiiSlite
Foot, .usin. fine .iavon or silk crochet thread asti, fillt, li, Sce page 67 bwof cold.
Throat PlawSatin Stio h Foot 105251( citual Nef (fie P,,sition
V,4o, md, 1, BwIltAlitif),t 0 itell
lse wi(l, lace daillg vith a flefinitp floral design, %and haste into desired, oil rightside of fabric,, Fir,,t follow upper lilies of motif s,nearest edge,, covering tiller cord with tinystitches along lilies of' motif, and Continuing inan tivil)rokel c,,fltitti 3us line. Then choose as,ctooi of the motif nearest edge and fully (111hile11 8 Sepal all- Inotl ' repeating at evenly spacedin c vals for feligth et the lace. iialj%" lenlove
eut surplus hice close o stitchesof' Corded onthries and, f i m wrong side, of gar- 1,,' ii] ,l ha,ment cut axa.v surplus satill along edge close tolilies of Cording.
09
SHELL STITCHED HEMS
Shell stitched hems provide a sofit. ornarnernal
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pfinish for delicate fabrics- particularlY whenmaterial i, cut nil the bias.Lower shell hemmer over raw edge of fabri e ( twrong side of material. Take one stitch, rai-, 1,11:1hemmer. Draw the work back ancflolding both cii(l of attached needraw edge of fabric lighily jott, S(lr(l herroner,drawing oil threads to (larr it through. Oil reach. P"'. 11" Ro,, I'd', ffiingslot of hemmer, lower the needle inio hem, thenlower hemmer and stitch.
Bightstio ll
L,,,r A Q,, If, BlindEdg,,
Maro, variations of tile softsCallop n1JY be obtained by
if,,, ir, usinc different selfingsand thre.,1
The automatic stitch demise lend further e.riati.... and interest to shell herre.The shell herns illustraicil are stitched ith Bli ...1Stoch Di,,c at hightarld 25 'fitch (Fig. 21 aod it]) tItilIe Slit, 1) It at 5 JAehtmA 2-, gig, % ( 1h,iI
70
THE BINDER
BIAS BOUND EDGES
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BIAS BOUND EDGES
fa I it, I~ill(le is uised t "l'Po tmf~~ binlding as lXlssllfbicba it anl
unfinished edlge
h-Iis Colourful triml is Attractive wh'len applied thidijrens, wear, aproins anid(altric furnishings. It is a praictical finishi for keamtits that ravel and for
moaking bound s -n s
1~ ~ ~~~l e oal nieedile hole of the sxahnnll accommodate biothi straight and/1/ titchingil
THREADING BINDER
Pr-oddco ur rcia! bias is inserted fronm the rightinto the o tdes lo t in the hintler scroll,
Cut the binding diagunally to formi a lonrg point. 1Inserd
the pointed ends; nito the Slot aned pull through the sc-roll ng. 12t1 Inserhang Folded
until the evenly foldedl edges are Under the needle. fBindin~gin Binder
Uase: General-purpose Throat Plate and Binder
Lever A Zigzag Stit ch tir Straight St itchI
21 o, $ Bight 0 BightS to 12 Stitch Length 1(1to IS stitch LengthCentral Needle Position Central Needle Positiont
BIAS BOUND EDGES
ADJUSTMENT AND OPERATION OF BENDER
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'I'lle edge to he bound is guided inlo the centre (oftilt, Scroll. Stitching is positiolied ( i)se to tile edge', ( the bifiding bx (ljkitii)g the s(,rtl pi)ltii)tj Id'th,
attachillent. Loosell the adjusting, screw and [rolvetile Scildl to the ri'ght to bring t6e stitching closerto the binding align'. and to the left for a wideradjustruent. Care should he taken to ce that tilescrew is well tighterjed alter making air adjustment 'Ne,ler [lull [Ilk, binding as ii fecd, through thescroll. Allow the attachment 1( do ill(. work,nicrely the edge to be bound well into thecentre of the scroll as you stitel).
Fig. AdjuSting (Id, fmd,
SELF-FABRIC BINDING
Self-labric, bias binding should he cut 1V16,Wide 1111the true bias. Insert the unfolded hiridit g directlyilito the two folds at the evid of the scrol; and drawit back under the ncedle- As the bividirig f)as,,e,through the scroll the ra" edges are (urned in. Use
sv#4 cither tiiii,,lit or zigzag stit(,ilillc k(ijljst till,
tion .,f, the scroll, 1)f till" I'lle that the needle entersthe double fold of, the hiliding oil hoth sides (,f tilell ork.
19 A Ag--, ste 1,
BINDING CURVED EDGES
Curved call be butilld as a, Irzii- lltedges, bill require Aigliffi different fabm handling.
l lld fi
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Inside curves ale a, alloy all, ted ifitothe bindei. If the labric is boft and a lelldefixif) scret, ll, reinfoice the edge with a sinAc row of
stil('flilbgefole landing.Outside ( tine- still to lead away from tile centreslot of tile scroll and Aotuld be guided ,, that a lullseats isidth rs taken at the needle point Dlt riotattempt it, pull or straighten fabric into ilic fullleti ,tll of 1 lf. S, roll.
clastic ffic -11and durable flat finish for cuilled witellfrsing a straight 'litell a Wider ol thebinder required ifian is lig 12- ...... dbinding a straight edge.
BOUNDSEAMS
1,kso Deals (.(]gem Illay be bou r ld i,, f o r m adurable scam that is usef i l l il larticles. such as xtiIii(,tis or Aip-4m g
of fabric or plasto . 'I'lle k-aill edgi, aft, filst joined th stlaight stilchillf,' (1,rong 11 1011,1111,11 th,scain alloiait((. trimmed it) a scani 1, ' foel Owninserted into the scroll ul the and bollildas a sill-le
128, H i d i n . g a S, , , ,
713
NET a0UND SEAMSfabro,, that li-av chilly like rliifT, i,etc- nia, h.', 'wn erg , bound Iii nylon o 1, Cut
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, , g , y ,,iet moo stfifis a halfie, 1,wiic and insert, into out-solc slot of hiroler.
'c: C ... i-al N'-edle, Ksitom Bight 212 to 2,5 Stit,h Lerealli he'er 'I
Fee'] edge, ioto billder ii, iglit 'ol, ifThi,, filliAl ill impure alwin falvitig Ailing hulk. fig. 129. Yet 11n
ebet u th ,gztg StochDECORATIVE BOUND EDGES
Binding, a" gien Interest it, lled ll, tlo, iif" reguLneslit,h length, fight ,,,1 ne.11 positjoil and stitis , e ,,ilv ,s tit, hilog.
se: ... e Throat Plit eCf-alral '.\,,,,Ale PomtionS:i i Leogil, AI,,) . 25S i h Pattern (Sclect de re(l 'lise)Bilelf,Bight 3 to 5
gig. 1,30. Binding ,ith Dewgnmad, ,ith [aim No J
Fig. 131, Binding n ith D,,,ign Fig. 1.32. Binding nal, Design Fig. 133. Binding uoth DIignmade unll 1), N", 8 n .. d, u tilt Deu No. i2 mad, uith Lue, D
7
CORDED EDGES WITH FABRIC COVERED CORD
I'LL1c,
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I'llroal Plat,Central Ncedle ositiou1) BightZil)l)('1. E l t 161 12
'1'( C(Acr (ord. lit bia, '1111l do- of' tile -calnallowance filus r, :,ri, adjusi F,ot sit left of iteldif,'fold bias l,\er '(,Id. 1)l) til)ll,,Joc, 1, blit nol inlo it. tind Ilmer the foot. Slit(h.guiding, tilt, edge of Ill, foot llext to thi. 1jul it, m.1clowd 111c loot agaillt it.Machinc I ra te (o)ril if, right -id(' ot g l-niiiit usnig
Zillier Foot a(ijtt c.1 to indil of ncedle.Apply facing and 1,oitil)ii under needle, iitli facing nextto feed aril Alarmist flext to foot, so thal 1)a il)", mitell millbe in view Stitch, this time the foot againsttilt, wording and inaking stitches lco, eyi the basting andthe cording.Before turning mork, blend scarn, by cutting a~. seamallowances, the hw to 's' attic the 1garment 1 and' facill,to
facing and (Age, lend ul to t ilol",1 gal.
miffi .... rded 'fit,, Yylwr- loot i, t,,r itiakili-alld alld fi s 111ally clflibli(atioll in fig 1 ;l, Rammg
addifion to it( Filial 11c111, o,
SCALLOPINGSCALLOPED EDGES When the Scallop Disc is in use, the needle moves to
fo ina seallop vhile the fabric moves in a straight line
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gluntderthe presser foot. The depth of the scallop is con- trolledby the bight setting. A Sbight produces a scallop~~'w~~rr~~~ approximately 3f" dieep anid each1 bight setting of lessthan 5 produces a correspondingly narrower scallop.The length of scallop varies with the stitch length. A12 stitch and a 5 bight produre a scallop approximately1 SK in length, a 25 stitch and 5 bight give approxi-mately a hV scallop, while a stitch lengthabove 25
K g 13o, Sea/apr 4 K/ge in Pro..r. prod~ices a scallop of ' in length or less dependingupon the stitch.
I -e: General-purpi Sc l a Il late and A single straight stitch separates each scallop providingGeneral- urp se Presser Foot spare for cuttingwien the seam edges are trimmed andC* t al Ned I Posiiol turned to form the finished, facedscallop edgx,.JS Bight12 to 25 Stit(ch as desired Scalloped edges are used extensively on blouses, dressesLmevrI an l onl cdhildren 's wear.
Stitch in the same wav as when making a straight seam.The garment section will pass straigilt umler thepresser foot while the needle follows a scallop pattern.Trim seam allowance to less than Isi anid clip in to eachpoint between scallops.Blend this narrow seam hb clipping small wedges atregular intervals. When the scallop is turned, theseamed scallop edge will have a smooth even cenliour. TIg Ir.. S.i//i .'I ittgr t>nn//Cud
70
MONOGRAMS
ktitarti, variation i given simple mon..
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g pgr yn 'diell ,a, -,r more J.1111f, 'Iti, -tith
att,rf,' are Select a finmogram rom the eaiii tralifer deiIalIA aldilable crsk,t, h ', , to vour purpose.
Bak "it), bi nI rwe right iIc
ol loateriaL ( be3l 'fitching[Tea,, o....
Th, ....gram. on thi, page are suggenive Jthe wide ra.p. and ,,Deny -Inch an
4 F2 cw
SCRIPT STITCHUI'-: Dalrlinig and EmInroidery Throat Plair No. 161238
Darning and Eifmbroidlery F No 161236
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Darning and Eifmbroidlery F oo No. 161236Darning andI Embroidery lloop No. 1612 0
or ( oiv/ itiortal E11broidery floops
( entli-al Needle losiition3.5 Bight 0 Stitch Le-er AScript stitch is most eflfetive for marking baby blankets,childrellrs vear, household linens, lingeri- or accessories.After tracing or marking lettering on right side of fabric.
Ftge J.l3 Sript Stiching .nih HOops place iu cmltnicry hoops with right side up. (See page88 fin assemlling hoops.) Place work un1er needle, lowerthe presser ibar. position the nerdle and f.oloM the outline
traced. Should thread break.ag cur, check selling of( needle, decrease tension and use c(risplawn or organdie .a an underlaY.SHADOW MONOGRAM
Shadow monograms have a dinerisi onal appeal accotiipIisplc-Iedwith thread.s of d ifferenlt colours or shades and with twin needles.Proceed as for script stiteh. Limit bight to 3 or les and u eea needle thread tension slightly lighter than for script stitch.Stitch more slowly when crossing one line -t ti ng over AK ranother. Where lines cross, stitch' the first fiii less lenIC andallow the second line of stitching Io be mnore prominient.Move eml)roidery hoops in formirig letters s thiat most of themotion is away from you. Move loops with the stroke of the,needle, taking care not to bend or deflect needles.Shadow monogramis are equally appropriate for linens andwearing apparel. Ng / d l o,,.tiogtrnm
1DESIGNS AND MOTIFS
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0*1jog 1 tax. I 17 ~ 5
F23832 Y WF23033
f,, , I , l y ,
m
1
m~ 111 EZ34034
l lP rig, 1 o P'i', 1 W
19BORDER DESIGNS
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I A AT t1 2
'ig,
Fig. 15,3 Fi 1
M
APPLIQUE
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to (lull crepc to create lit-alit Mid ulterest lo,C(I1tra-t in teNture. Pinil 1 bri, s are some-times applied it, plaill fabrics inchildren's clothes. play or linen'. for
rnotif and llorkler printsill 'y be applicl to plain fabri( of' Huffill Wx-ture, When large inotif iltsi,,,lis are used inapplique. the lilies or of tileare fit,(ltitlith accented lo, continuing tilestilchill., arou lid thesc Sections to oul
iiiIiiil,,s de-w il
(lie In 111bric lur 1 1tions are 11-(',itlk itiv padded to furillel,1xcellt the and lo give it a limensi( nalflualit.y. Shados, on Awei fabric- i allunpolLint variation of plaill applique and i
on page 0, .
fifter portion. of [lie x'sil-11 are (,fitwlav colltrast
on inariv type, of appalel le design 11,1 lig double and h
Fabros of liketextures.lts "ell as fal)ii(. and Bold nwitogranis of, kvllf stiig fahTICS ],sly 15emea(s, W'fl Oftell used ill appliqueing. Vor applied to b e d s p r e a d s . I'liiliktt covers oi Wittierexaniplc. ill liogeric, lustrous atin is appliqued flit'lliltiiig, for Ilit. horuc.
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Fig. I ,. C hild A TpI~j,,lr a i l
A closely spaced satin stitch is usually used for straight stitch the raw edge s trimmed. and theapplique making it unnecessary to turn raw satin stitch used to complete the mitline,edges to underside. The width of the satin resulting in a smooth, lustrous edge. A triaistitch may be varied to accommodate the sample is always mrade to determine theweave. Fine fabrics are appliqued with a method most appropriate for the particularnarrow satin stitch. while coarse fabrics re- work being dow since appliqule is appropriatequire a wide satin stitch. In many cases the onl such a diversity of fabrics.design is stitched to the garment with a satinstitch and1 the edges are trimme.d away later. Cay motifs from evervday lift are spirited andAn alternate procedure is often used where smart for resort wear, play clothes or furnish-the design is stitched to the fabric with a short iigs in children's rooms or recreation rooms.
82
THE RUFFLERcE
I -: Sitioglii Stit, iuig 'Ilrt Plate
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PRINCIPAL PARTS OF RUFFLERA Foot- attac he. ri ile r it pr- sser liar.OIB Fork Arni-straddles tieedle. clamp.C -Adjusting Serew -- rcguilattes fullness of
gatherst.D) Projection -engages slots in ad~juisting
lever.E---Adjustinug Le~ver- sets Ruffier for gath- ~ ft 1rI fR lr
c or pleats.F Adjusting Finger regulates dlepth or each iworkilng day i in sure- smooth operati on
size ot pleats. and to prevent rurt and wear.G -Separator and Scain Cu I ithe- sepia- AmilYoil drn oii at eachi poin ittI dicated
rates rmille -trip from fabric and facing - in Fig. 1511. then t s illNto oil. Opterateguides seam edges evenly. rutillv 1"iii a pict-e of1 5tai A material until
11 Ruffling Blad, -- the upper, blue steel litre i- lie oil on parts that tome jibt contactblade ~ith~teeth. 'titl ilie work.
j Separator Blade- ii wer blue blade To Attach the unifier, false needle to itskeeps Ruflling Blade Teeth separate irom highest point, loosen presser foot thumb screwIced Doi Tee t it. and at tacit ru fler in plac~e of presser foot. at
same time placing fork arm B asIrtide needi ITO OIL THEUFFLE R ~clamp.See that necedle enters ccitrec of need 1e
The mutller re(quiirt> oiling at thec beginning of hole in ruffler.
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817)
FAMILY MAINTENANCE SEWING
MENDING A RENT OR TEARHousehold linens, sheets, tf,e]5 and pillo. cases ... nded onthe SINGER Autnnatic Sitig Ne lle b holding air underlay of
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the SINGER Autnnatic Sitig-Ne, lle by holding air underlay ofstraight or bias labric tire tear and Iil,,[,itig "ith ille.,tit,h zigzag over tire te r bringing the a les d the tear n,'o.thr red
forcing hems The eid r, re ;level .,ldcl Strength by isingShorter slilch lermth,Ume: Tbr.al plate and Ple,.,,r F,)m
Central Needle.S flight2,7) to almost 0 slach
Stitch Zilazag Lever B
MENDING TROUSER POCKET 'ig Tell,
Regulate machine in the same, ay as for mending , tear, and stitch po,,kettogether allo.ing LIke needle in titeli very close to the else )it its right
stroke, reinforcing 'the edge andcl,,siiig the seam at tire same time.
GIRDLE REPAIRSZigzag stitching is well Awaited forrise on garments of an elasticnature that require firm, flexiblestitching The multiple stitch zig-zag, as "ll as the plain zi9zag, V`appropriate for such repain- Th e
stitch 1,ulath arid bight are regu.]ate according to the need, Aneedle Athtly larger ill lnze than Eig, 11,1, R'p'not.g a Gmil,is used or regular sinching issornetimes necessary to a(coininoAate the layers of fabric aridclas re. A1wre bothr lengthhise arid erlSswie chisticitv is i1il
ig. M3. ,bedding a l a s e r PocAel mill lIc itch zigzaggifig is best sinted,
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8-1
DARNING
tockings, cliiidr, i-, l., ii)rigg.Atis, Use: Darning arid Embnaders Foot 161230and knit wear of all kinds xs well as liousochold Daming and Eniir )iclei lk Throat Plate
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and knit wear of all kinds xs well as liousochold Daming and Eniir,)iclei.lk Throat Platelinens can be cons.eniciiti darned on Machine 161238320K. The area near the W0111 section iiiii 1)ajriiii,,, arid Embroidery flool, 1612,1nbe held taut in the ciiibrc)idcr\, boops, furnisli- r Corivelitional 11,Jole,ed with the machine, or in (oiixciitiijll l Ceritral Needle Position 0 BiAltembroidery, hoop,,,
G
C3
Dariling
atid EmbroidersVold to 1,1("S(,rhill mnll thumb
rt, E3 s,, elicitF3 is
tli underw.d LWA,,ik,, Thwi Pla lee-er bar. lifter,
11g D3 isllemove presser blot. then remve throal E3 licit alldplate as nistructed mi page 1f2. Kwe Darnim, 1 le neollf, baby,air,] Enilroiolt,[x Throat Plate in posilit'll m 1111ough centre ofnetchole as shomi m Fig. 167 o that hole in f ... 1, aC3 is uridemeath the e(lge i)1' Ille 1),tl ill Fig.and the pins enter (fie holes 113 in ifie plaw, Em/ .....
88
DARNING-Continued
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To atiach Hoop J3. F119.
161) to inwhinc, remove solid ri:19113 hom plit ring J3 and in-cit t illK3 ill holc 1-3 ill bed of '
to be over split;ill,,, J3 that h(Ac (o be repatied is
J3
1',g l(A. 4ttz hing Hoop
solid ring 113 over the material andpress it domn firmly cell thp split ringto clanip material tacit between the
H3 rings.
Raise foot litter G3. Fig. 161i andneedle bar and hoops with
J3 M11Crial L11111111he darriiiil, fool. a,shom n ill Fig. 17 1.
I is, Ling
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APPLICATIONS OF THE TUBULAR BED FEATURE
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91
S lee v s I It t ca rs it, (Is diagona I taiiis a reproperly"licii the underarm scarvis dre suilched and
pressed prior to the -litching of the diapmal derail oler
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p p g pific tubakil bell,
11
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1
, R
1E
h
Q - --- 1
u fr a re at ta(led it h anwre oux eniew liati.Iiiii-, of tlif.1.131kof 1 w A c ell I tubuI ir I c Xelld', iFs h. 1 1(S c veas illustlated.
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9
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95~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Stitching at the waistlinei oif a garment i s a v r n l s dwitd great Pr facility over the tubular bnd. Often a st viedgarmlent &alis for a slot ted seam , a welt eamn or a' topstitched seamr at the, waistline which must be completed -f [lh b di
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after [lhe bodice and skirt sections are joined.. All suchstitchi ng, are easily dlone over the tubular bed.
a 1
j
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1
w it ri f, it ng a z i .1wr it) a t 1 t,ss 1,1ac ke i , l I c fit la IS1 td I i rt I,wt, c, 'll \e it if l fl y a, with [at,,
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Clalnl( it lit-M o cr the 1111)111arbed . Ilf, Ai gh t cac.
pleserit ill ill(, rxiiitit at thi, i, accommodatedwlicii ilic zil fr Directs, the tiiitil i IRA.
(8
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100
Am
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1
j ..,i j21
U"
Repairs and mendinc- A garments sm h a ilio,inviffioned fin llic precoluil., page are
with the 320K Mak lim...
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102
j
k 100
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ark - 100 .
111,11.....
5
.9 11
1(3Household se lag. cushionis, slip covers, lampshades and all articles of cylviilricalshape arecoivelliently and accurately stitched on thie 320KMachine.
A l h d
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A popular method of assembling sectiors frlr aslip cover attaches the welting to the shapedsection. with the zipper foot. The shaped sectionis then pinned to its adjacent section and stitchedfrom the outside through the welting and theseam allowarice of the newly joined section, Thecording rolls over this outside stitching makingit hardly discernible.
'~~~~~.x ~ ~ ~ ,R
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1
Especially itiittl)lt. for iiiiiiiiiirv llicextends inside the (r,,wtt or Imitn ofa halarid place, m 1 it) tit interfering "it It 1 ieAlapillg of Ificse
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106
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/~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
1(7
Trie brim and crown sections may be joined with ma-chinestitching following hand basting to properly shape anddistribute the ease. This joining is always covered withdetail of trimintiig or handing on the outside and a head.
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size ribbon on the inside. a=6; ~ ~ \
108
INDEX
,f Ifn ic h Tubular Bled Feature TY10107 lb ouitooles. rmak ing . . . 01-63A pl e 67 li8 80 & 8i Bu~ttons sesing on 6
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A~pl ue . .......... ....... 67. li8. 80 & 8i Bu~ttons. sesing on,,,. 6
.AppliqUeler, c...C...r..........p... (itt32-
Applujoe Aahdilsw heta ............ ,Lirrl ede stoAu ecu'KAt eltg ,.. 6-1 Cliaiiging FASH 1ON Dis,, . 13Changing the throat ;slate 42Automiatic sitihini~ designs, .- 5 Circular h~en- . , . , , , . . . . . (A
Conhrnation stitches.,, ..... I,Bight contro ,,....,.. 30-32 Contour darts in iuterfacittgsBi nder. 70i Controller, tpeed ..... ....
Adjustment and operatiork of, 71 Corded edges with fabric co'adcrdThreading, 70 Cording Seams . ...-
Bindfing Curved edges, hiiidi rig. . -
Binding b~lanlket7 ....... . . . ,86 Dri. 8Bin ding, curved edges 72 Darnin 8...95Bindinig velvets and shecer metalli,c 1 Decorative stitchiung with twinl needles.,.. tV X. toBi ding iuth self fabric.. ..... 71 Deinadmofs. ....Bound edges, bias .... ,........ .. 0 &71 )besings and mobbnti res ... 782Bound edAges, ith automatic stitch designs. 73 taigu obntra ......... 2Bound ".tseams .72 F~EsBeundt seams. net .... ...- 13 aks ound edges... 71)& 71
Bliind St itshied andl decorative hens. ... 64-67 Cornded edges . .... .. 7Bobbin i c t h r e a d i n g and replacing . ... 22 Curved edge., landinag. ., 72
Bobbin imeA, draamgf. ........ Scalloped edges ...Bfold>, tiireadt ret's ion, regultat inrg.. .. 38 & 39 Elastic waistbands ..... 8.....6a
Bobn.iting . ... ... ... . .... 20 & 21 Electrical information. .Border d e s g ius, , 7 9 Embroidered litce.or Vienna asork . . .. 6$Bloon1 edges, bias 71) 71Bound edges, decorative. ...... 3S Fabric, thread, needle and stitch length chart. .... 1.6
109
PAGE PAGEFASHION Discs, changing . 33 Mending a tear or rent . 8SFeatures of 320K Machinme . . i Mending trouser pocket . . 8Feed.,reversing direction ,,.,,. 28 Metallics (slicer) an J elvets, binding 73Fitt d d t
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(slicer) an J elvets, binding . 73Fitted darts ....... .... . ... 57 Moograms . 76 & 77Motifs and designs. ..... 78Gathered or puckered stitching .. .6 Motors and agCathering with ruttler . 83
Ceneralli urpose Stitching 23 Names of parts .. 50I(impbuttonh oles 63 Nee le breakage.t6Gird.e repairs 85 Needle, fabric, thread and stitch length chart . 16uiding and supporting materi; .. . 27 Needle position control 32IN edle. setting in needle clamp 17 & 43]airine aeann sheers .. S Needle thread tension 36.37 & 40flea y duty reversible seam .. 56 Needle threading . 6. 18 & 44llens Needles and thread 17
Applique shadow hem ., ..... 67 Net bond seas 73Blended circular hems 66Blind Stitlhed and decorative hems 64.67 Oiling the machine . 48 & 49Blind Stitched finished with seanm tape 65 Open seams, overcasting 58Shell stitched hems .60 Ov.e.. ging seams 5)
Interflaing,g tstourdart 57 Overlapped seani for interlining .57Invisible .ram for all-over lacee Plain seio 52Invisible seam for horeehair or net banlings 56 I leati witn rufifer 2
lIi [airing to sew 24 & 25ace. nvisibleseams.. .. 3 resr re on Iresser foot, regulating . . 4 & 35eft needle po lin...32
Length of stitch, regulating . 28 & 29 RBed buttonlolee. 63l~ight .... Sl Rcmoving the work. . . 26Looped stitle s. . .. Repanioig a ginlie as
110
Right ni lilte i~o .32 Starting to sew .
se r liners .*5 Stavedseamn for jerseyv or crepe .9
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Ro~ Im~,... e~t.. i ..... .. 47 titch length. reg ulating. & >9
Rust latnagt pure ~~~~~~~~~~Stitchevers..
6Satin stitt Ilong 28 29 & 40 Stocking darner .87Scalloped ..... titc hingg.
~~Qillopiflg 1 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~ensiorissemilY, reIin n replacing. 11 &; P2S ripS stitc .... ,.....7 rel tvig aSea r i c e s , . 8.5 &- 2 lesotregulating. 30.110
Stunts ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Threadnd needles.17.1 dh}e(~;eue and stitch length chart.. 6
firhe ms, 55 Thread tensions for straight siching, 36-40O
lle s luv revrsbl sctains 56 Threading bobbinease.2
Ins ,ble ~~~~eams. 54 & 56~~ Threading the needle ..... 18 44Net bound s7 ns 3 Throat plate, changing 42Os srtis~t opien stans 8 T ,rso or shaped da rts. ... 53
Os ri dpi seamsl ~9 T;'in needle decorative 5t itchirg ... 14 & I0; tMalpped seams...7 Tsrn needles. setlinig .4.
Rip proW seririrs ~~~~~~~~~~Ial needle stitching '.* ~.,,.45Silaved .ea .n .... Twin needles, threading . ... 44/~igrag eiiins U pper threading. 18 & 44
Settil,,~ the,Belle, 17 & 43 e rm tlis idn . . . . .. 722 tinj14 i..J.......4 Velvetsand shermt l i sbn ig7Shell 'fitched
69 Vienna work or embroidered] lace . 68
SI NGER se rvice...3.V3 lltage for electric motor operation . 5
Skipped 4tthe. Winding the bobbin.....20 & 21Speed Controller. .5Starting ait a given place in'a design. 29 Zigzag seaming ....
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TO ALL WHOM AT MAY CONCERN:The improper placing or renewal of the Trade Mark SINGER
or any other of the Trade Marks of The Singer ManufacturingCompany (all of which are duly Registered Trade Marks) on anymachine that has been repaired, rebuilt, reconditioned, or alteredin any way whatsoever outside a SINGER factory or an authorisedSINGER agency is forbidden.
Pritd i ia rti
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