SHORT BREAKS�From Bengaluru

2 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | OCTOBER 2013 OCTOBER 2013 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA 3

�Ooty

fringes to experience the relaxing ambience that the hills promise. The town can be a repertoire of hill station clichés, but should not be missed. Ooty needs at least two whole days to explore.

Standing at the edge of Ooty Lake, one can’t help but appreciate Sullivan’s foresight in creating a large tank for irrigating the region. Built in 1825, the lake is now a recreational spot with a bustling Boat House (entry `5, camera `10, video `100; boating from `320; horse riding From `50; open 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. all days). It’s recommended only if you have an appetite for boating, carousels, horse riding, cotton candy, or if you are travelling with X

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The top of Doddabetta (top), the second highest peak of the Nilgiris, o!ers a bird’s eye view of the surrounding hills; Ooty Lake was an erstwhile irrigation tank, and is now a busy tourist spot. The Boat House (bottom) is a highlight for visitors.

Sullivan’s NilgirisThe legacy of Ooty’s founder still lives in the Blue Hills | By SUPRIYA SEHGAL

The invigorating weather of the Nilgiris lends itself to thousands of acres of tea plantations--a lifeline for the locals. The ambitious task of exploring and mapping the Blue Hills was first taken up by John Sullivan in 1819. I am standing on the creaking wooden

floors of the Pethakal Bungalow in Kotagiri. This is the very place in which John Sullivan, a young o!cial with the

East India Company, planned his explorations of the Blue Hills in 1819. From here, he plotted to transform the Nilgiris into a resort for the British, most likely with a touch of imperial arrogance. As I look at the old photos on the wall, I am uncomfortable with undue applause being accorded to a colonial upstart.

But my hesitation soon evaporates. As I make my way through the tea-carpeted hills of Kotagiri and Ooty, I grow sympathetic to Sullivan’s ambitions. By undertaking an arduous journey from Coimbatore to the Nilgiris, braving wild animals, crossing harsh terrain, and losing several men, he opened access to one of the most salubrious spots in South India. He went on to build Pethakal

Bungalow and live here.In addition, Sullivan’s horticultural

experiments with potatoes and barley increased the food options for the locals. Today, the towns of Ooty and Kotagiri are dotted with evidence of Sullivan’s enterprise. A few days of neat tea-lined valleys and a walk through the historical events that shaped the Nilgiris make for a tasteful break.

EXPLORE

APPRECIATING THE CLICHÉS Start the journey with Udhagamandalam (Ooty), the most popular destination of the Nilgiris, immortalised in Indian cinema. Though the lake and the low hills skirting the town promise tranquillity, Ooty is hit by a barrage of tourists during summer. Stay at the town’s outer X

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children. In the same area, you can also see the Thread Garden, the brainchild of the Keralite artist Antony Joseph. Sixty million metres of thread have been used by 50 ladies over 12 years to create this sumptuous array of 150 varieties of thread flowers, packed in a spartan gallery (0423-2445145; www.threadgarden.com; entry `10; cameras `15; video `30; open 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. all days). For a bit of history, head to St. Stephen’s Church, where you can still see the graves of Sullivan’s wife and daughter. The Stone House, which is now the residence of the Principal of the Government Arts College, was the first mansion John Sullivan built in Ooty. Sadly, visitors are not

allowed inside. Next on the tourist pilgrimage is the

Doddabetta Peak, at 8,652 ft the second-highest mountain in the Nilgiris. A placid 9 km trail flanked by towering ferns and eucalyptus trees leads to a lone telescope, frayed children’s swings, and snack food joints. Regardless of the chartered-holiday feel of the place, the view of the Hecuba, Kattadadu, and Kulkudi summits is breathtaking (entry `5; open 8 a.m. to 5.30 p.m. all days). Another laudable educatory e"ort is the Tea Factory and Museum. A guided walk through the factory gives you a brief insight into the tea manufacturing process, ending with some tea sampling (entry `2 for children; `5 for adults; cameras `10; open 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. all days). From here, you can also see the Lego-like houses between acres of undulating tea gardens.

The most photographed place in this town is the Botanical gardens (entry `10 for children, `20 for adults, cameras `30, video `75; open 7 a.m. to 6.30 p.m. all days). Established in 1848, its highlights include a glass house, a 20-million-year old fossilised tree, and over a thousand species of exotic flora spread around the well-manicured gardens. Find a long bench to absorb this dazzling landscape.

Beyond the overlapping hills of Ooty, make a short detour to more peaceful Coonoor. Fresh carrots and turnips line the road, and a moss like layer of tea bushes covers the hills. Coonoor too, fostered colonial interest, evident in the architecture, club culture, and distinct plantation life.

DON’T FORGET TO TAKE HOME

Chocolates from King Star Homemade chocolates are an essential part shopping in Ooty. Pick up a box from the town’s oldest shop, started in 1942 (0423-2450205; 54, Commercial Road; open noon-9 p.m. all days; `180-200 for 250 gm).Nilgiri tea Fragrant local brews from tried and tested brands like Chamraj, Tranquilitea and Glendale make for good gifts (`75 for 250 gm onwards).Indigenous products The Green Shop is the place to get locally sourced souvenirs like paintings, honey, oils, and clothes and organic foods made by the Nilgiris tribals (04266-273887; www.lastforest.in; Johnstone Square, Kotagiri; open 9.30 a.m. to 7.30 p.m all days; `100 onwards).

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SHORT BREAKS�From Bengaluru �Ooty

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TEA ESTATES AND HIKING TRAILS Kotagiri, 29 km/1 hour from Ooty, is not just the melting point of the region’s colonial history, but also a tourist-free getaway with wonderful trekking trails. When tracing the trajectory of colonial footsteps into the Nilgiris, this is the most relevant stop. Pethakal Bungalow (Kannerimukku village, outskirts of Kotagiri; 94887 71571, entry `10; open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.; lunch 1-2 p.m. all days) helps you condense the events of 17th- and early 18th-century colonial rule, right from the time a Jesuit priest named Father Fininicio set foot in the hills in 1603, to its becoming a possession

of the British East India Company in 1799. The museum and library also focus on the history of the region’s tribes. The town has several Christian establishments: Christ Church, Luke’s Church and Kota Hall, a sanctuary for young boys built by the missionaries. Their histories are bound together by General Gibson, the man who kept the European haven alive after Sullivan. He lived in Kota Hall and erected the Christ Church, which stands close to the bus stand. After it was destroyed in an earthquake in 1906, he built Luke’s Church.

Kodanad View Point o"ers dramatic vistas, including views of Asia’s largest earthen dam, Tipu sultan’s garrisons (Ali Rani Koli), the

OrientationOoty (Udhagamandalam) is located in the Nilgiri Hills in western Tamil Nadu, at an height of 2,240 m. It is 265 km southwest of Bengaluru and 98 km northwest of Coimbatore. Kotagiri is located at a height of 1793 m, 29 km east of Ooty.

Getting There Air The closest airport to Ooty is Coimbatore, 94 km/3 hours away. Taxis charge `2,000 one way. Rail There are four trains that ply daily between Bengaluru and Coimbatore (8 hours) and 12 more options are available

through the week. However, the bus is more convenient. Road Bengaluru is 265 km/6 hours southwest of Ooty on SH 17 via Mysore. Several KSRTC buses from Kempegowda bus stand in Bengaluru do overnight, nonstop trips to Ooty (from `349). Local buses, autorickshaws and taxis are easily available for the 29 km/1 hour trip to Kotagiri.

SeasonsLocated at the western most edge of Tamil Nadu at a height of 6,000 feet, the Nilgiri Hills defy the sweltering heat of the state. Ooty enjoys mild weather

throughout the year, with day temperatures in the range of 17-23°C. Winter (Dec-Feb) nights can be chilly at about 5°C, while during the rest of the year, the night temperatures are 8-10°C. Mar-Jun is probably the ideal time to travel, though the monsoon months (Jul-Oct) have their own charm. Kotagiri’s weather is largely similar, though it is shielded from the brunt of the south-west monsoon by Doddabetta range.

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THE GUIDE

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1970 show the vast expansion of the region, something that Sullivan probably hoped for. Still, he’s unlikely to have known that his legacy of stone cottages, churches and buckets of tea would attract thousands of visitors each year.

STAY

OotyLymond House is a British-style cottage built in 1855 that still retains its colonial ambience with high ceilings, fireplaces, a lush garden, and a small driveway (0423-2223377; www.serendipityo.com; 77 Sylks Road, The Nilgiris; doubles from `5,000, includes all meals).

Red Hill Nature Resort o"ers wonderful views of the Avalanche and Emerald Lakes from the sit-outs and the garden. It is a little away from town, has a great location, an organic kitchen garden, personalised treks, and Moby the dog (0423-2595755; Emerald, The Nilgiris; doubles from `5,000; includes all means; closed during the monsoon from July-Sept). I!India is a refurbished 100-year-old cottage that o"ers great value for money. The rooms are no frills, but the attention is personalised. There is a bright cheerful common area with wide French windows (0423-2448959; www.iindiaecolodge.in; 273 Grand Du! Road, Valley View; doubles from `3,800; includes all meals).

KotagiriLazy Hills o"ers a choice between a cosy tree house and a single luxury room. Only guests over 21 years are allowed (99419 43921; www.lazyhills.in; 4/657/3, Adubettu, Arvenu, Kotagiri; doubles from `5,680). La Maison is a cheerful luxury bungalow that o"ers the perfect homestay experience with “fresh from the garden” veggies and evenings of cheese and wine with the hosts Anne and Benoit. The open Jacuzzi by the tea plantation is the most coveted spot on the property (04266-273347; www.lamaison.in; Hadathorai, Nihung Post o"ce, Kotagiri; doubles from `8,950). Q

UNIQUE LOCAL EXPERIENCE

The Nilgiri Mountain Railway’s toy train is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and worth every bit of e!ort required to find a seat. Started in 1908, the train still runs partially on steam locomotive engines (Coonoor-Mettupalayam is the more scenic route) and pu!s along from Ooty to Mettupalayam over 3 hours, 30 minutes. It winds over 250 bridges and 16 tunnels, narrow gorges, across thick forests and tea plantations. Book ahead on IRCTC, though having a ticket may not actually mean that you get a great seat. Nilgiri tea (top) is usually described as dark, fragrant, and flavourful, and its long leaf verions,

like orange pekoe, are highly sought at international auctions; The terraced Botanical Gardens of Ooty (bottom) were built in 1848 to supply vegetables for the locals. Now, it is the most camera happy spot in the hills.

The historic St Stephens church (left) in Ooty was built in 1830 and still has some beautiful old stained glass windows (right). It’s easy to spot European names on the gravestones behind the church, including those of John Sullivan’s wife Henrietta Cecilia Harrington and one of his daughters.

meeting point of the Western and Eastern Ghats, and the Moyar River twisting into a horseshoe. If you want to see Coonoor’s Dolphin Nose, head to the Catherine Falls. Another scenic spot in the town is the 21-hectare grove, Banagudi Shola (Sacred Forest), with its 1,000-year-old dolmens (or megalithic tombs), a host of bird, reptile and animal species, and a Kurumba tribal settlement.

Kotagiri’s most popular hiking trails are the ones to Rangaswami Pillar, Elk Falls, and Catherine Falls. Since the area is a bio-diversity zone, hikers are bound to encounter an array of flora and fauna. Day-long hikes or advanced treks through the jungle can be organised by Kotagiri-based Nature Watch. Plan ahead as you need to give them at least eight days’ notice to obtain permission from the Forest O!cer (97869 71735; 4/100, Sackatha, Aravenu Kotagiri; `1,500 per group of 5 or less).

Back in Pethakal Bungalow, pictures of Ooty taken in 1870 and then from the same spot in