BR JOHN MAY INDUCTED INTO CLARE VALLEY WINE HALL OF FAMETOP BRACKET FOR ST FRANCIS XAVIER RIESLING

POPE FRANCIS RECEIVES COMMEMORATIVE WINES

ST IGNATIUS’ UNCOMPROMISING COMMITMENT TO QUALITY

THETIBERSEVENHILL COMMUNITY NEWSLETTER

SEPTEMBER 2014

ISSUE 019

Merlot muscles in on red enjoyment

Top bracket for St Francis Xavier Riesling

While Merlot may have a bit of “nice guy” reputation in the lineup of robust red wines, Sevenhill’s 2012 Inigo Merlot has been identified as a Merlot that can hold its own when push comes to shove.

Taste National Wine Writer Tony Love recently named the wine as of one of six Merlots that he described as being able to “stand up with a straight backbone and a decent show of muscle”.

“This version weighs in at 15 per cent alcohol and has a bit of mongrel about it,” he said.

“Packing big-boned flavours of dark-blue fruits, older oak meets dark chocolate notes with a dash of licorice and full-bodied finish that is mouth-filling but definitely not too assertive.”

According to Tony, the red wines with a certain amount of attitude are “just the ticket” if you love your red meats chargrilled, roasted and rich.

And his recommendation for the 2012 Inigo Merlot? “Definitely needs a lamb roast,” was the verdict.

See the Tiber wine offer to purchase the 2012 Inigo Merlot.

China’s harsh remoteness a winemaking challenge

Earlier this year I visited a winery and vineyard in China. It was an eye-opening experience to say the least. The winery was on 1000 hectares of vineyard in a very remote area, called Hoxud, in the Xinjiang region. I flew to Melbourne and then onto Gangjoux, where I met up with my Hong Kong colleague who acted as interpreter. After we flew to Urumqi, the regional capital, we were driven five hours to the winery through very dry country, with little vegetation. The winery is near the Khazakstan, Mongolian and Russian border, and very near the famous Silk Road. The area has very little rainfall, less than 80mm per year, but the water to grow grapes comes from snow on nearby mountains, which fills a natural lake during the warmer months.

The grape varieties made me feel at home, predominantly Riesling, Merlot, Shiraz, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris. However, what did surprise me were the huge crop levels. Normal practice is to irrigate every two to three days from the end of winter until harvest, but this practice means the wines lack intensity and flavour. Another fascinating aspect of the vineyard is the practice of burying the vines in autumn due to winter snow. I was present when the vines were being dug out of the ground ready for spring. This is fairly brutal treatment of the vines, as continuously pushing the vines on their side weakens the trunk. For this reason, the vine spacing is about 20cm, as they expect to lose a few vines each year.

The winery was well-equipped with a new Italian wine press and the refrigeration and and storage tanks were very good. Considering that none of the vineyard or winery staff had any formal training and basically learnt on the job, they were producing reasonable results. However, vineyard management needs to assess levels of crops and irrigation, and winemaking needs to consider harvest timing and wine flavours.

by Liz Heidenrich

Sevenhill Cellars St Francis Xavier Single-Vineyard Riesling has again achieved an outstanding rating in James Halliday’s 2015 Australian Wine Companion.

The 2013 vintage received 94 points, placing in the top-level Outstanding category for wines considered by Halliday as those of the highest quality, often with a distinguished pedigree.

The 2013 St Francis Xavier is the second release of this prestige, limited-release Riesling, which is produced with fruit from Sevenhill’s Weikert Vineyard, one of Sevenhill’s five Riesling blocks. The small Weikert vineyard (0.82ha) was planted in 1978 and has been recognised for consistently producing grapes of premium quality.

Sevenhill also had four other wines above 90 points in the 2015 Australian Wine Companion, placing them in the Highly Recommended classification, which is

described as wines of great quality, style and character, worthy of a place in any cellar.

The 2013 Inigo Riesling scored 92 points, the 2012 Inigo Merlot (91), 2012 Inigo Barbera (90) and 2012 Four Buckets Touriga Shiraz Malbec (90).

Cellar Door time change

Ray’s red alert for great wines

Outstanding quality and great value… that was the verdict on the 2012 vintage from prominent West Australian wine reviewer Ray Jordan in his annual assessment of red wines that are distributed in the WA market.

And leading the way was Sevenhill Cellars’ 2012 Inigo Cabernet Sauvignon, which was named by Jordan as the top-rated Cabernet in the $20-$25 price bracket of the West Australian’s Top 100 Reds publication.

Awarding the wine 95 points, he praised Sevenhill and the Clare Valley for the ability to produce stunning Cabernet in a region, which is so well known for its signature variety of Riesling.

“Such an impressive wine from this famous winery and Clare, which is often underrated for Cabernet,” he said. “So rich and densely concentrated, yet with a deft poise and elegant structure.”

Referring to the $20-$25 price range, Jordan wrote that within his overall assessment, this was the price bracket where the quality of the 2012 vintage in South Australia and Victoria started to shine.

“After the disappointing 2011, it was great to see these wines returning to form,” he said.

“The Cabernets and Shiraz were outstanding. While these are wines which, in the main, are designed for early drinking, the quality of the fruit and treatment in the wineries mean they have the capacity to age and, in some cases, it is worth putting a few aside. Many of these are the Shiraz and Cabernets which have a proved provenance to do this.”

More than 500 wines from all over Australia were submitted to Jordan for his assessment. The sheer volume of wines and the predominance of wines from the exceptional 2012 vintage made for a challenging task.

“All this made the final selection of wines at each price point incredibly difficult. However, I am more than happy with the final results,” Jordan said.

See the Tiber wine offer to purchase the 2012 Inigo Cabernet Sauvignon.

Sevenhill’s weekday Cellar Door opening time has changed to 10am - 5pm. This means our cellar Door is open from 10am - 5pm seven-days-a-week for visitors to taste and buy from Sevenhill’s wine portfiolio or visit our wine museum and underground cellar.

We also remind you that if you are planning a visit during the summer holiday season, please consider our revised trading hours during the Christmas-New Year holiday period.

Our Cellar Door will be closed on Christmas Day, Thursday, December 25, 2014, Boxing Day, Friday, December 26, and New Year’s Day on Thursday, January 1, 2015. In addition to our extensive wine portfolio, visitors can enjoy our gourmet cheese platter ($30) that includes a selection of cheeses, served with quince paste, olives, dried fruit and biscuits, plus two glasses of wine from Sevenhill’s Inigo range.

For those keen on bike riding, you can hire a bike from the winery or other bike hire outlets in the Clare Valley. Sevenhill is close to the Riesling Trail, with the winery readily accessible via a connecting bike path.

Pope Francis receives commemorative wines

Another stellar year for Riesling

Commemorative wines produced by Sevenhill Cellars that mark one of the most notable periods in the history of the Jesuits were recently presented to Pope Francis in Rome.

The two wines recognise the end of more than 40 years of suppression of the Jesuits in Europe (1773-1814) and the Jesuit priest whose determined leadership sustained members of his order during their isolation.

The 2013 Clare Valley Riesling celebrates the 200th Anniversary of the Restoration of the Society of Jesus (1814-2014).

From 1759-1814, Jesuits were banned from many European countries and their dominions. Under pressure from several Catholic monarchs, the Pope suppressed the

Order in 1773, leaving Russia and Prussia as the only areas where they could function.

When the powerful domination of the French Emporer Napoleon Boneparte declined, war gave way to relative peace from 1814, when Pope Pius V11 revoked the Jesuits’ Brief of Suppression.

The 2012 Clare Valley Barbera honours St Joseph Pignatelli SJ, the Priest who led his fellow Jesuits as they sought refuge across borders in friendlier surroundings. For 44 of his 49 years as a priest he lived in exile and three years after his death, Pope Pius VII revoked the Brief of Suppression. The patron for displaced and homeless persons, Fr Pignatelli was canonized in 1954.

The two wines were commissioned for use by

Jesuit communities in Australia during July

and August at events to celebrate the 200th

Anniversary of the Jesuits’ Restoration.

They were also presented to Pope Francis on

Thursday, August 7, following a morning mass

attended by 26 Jesuit Tertian Directors from

around the world who were meeting in Rome.

The three Australian Jesuit representatives,

Fr Steve Curtin SJ, Fr Minh-Uoc Pham SJ

and Fr Brian McCoy SJ, were the last of the

group to individually meet the Pope and they

were able to offer him a twin-pack of the

commemorative wines. Earlier, the wines were

presented to the Jesuit Father General.

Pope Francis is presented with the commemorative wines by the new Australian Jesuit Provincial, Fr Brian McCoy SJ (left), with Fr Minh-Uoc Pham SJ and the previous Australian Jesuit Provincial, Fr Steve Curtin SJ.

New vintages of Sevenhill Cellars’ Riesling will

be released in November.

The 2014 Inigo Riesling and 2014 St Francis

Xavier Single-Vineyard Riesling are again

considered exceptional examples of the

variety from another very favourable vintage in

the Clare Valley.

Good winter rain in 2013 was followed by a

long, dry summer that was broken with heavy

rain in early February. Vintage then continued

with warm, sunny days and cool nights, providing ideal harvest conditions for Riesling.

According to Winemaker Liz Heidenreich, Sevenhill’s 2014 Rieslings display wonderful varietal character, each with their own individuality. “The 2014 Inigo Riesling has prominent, lingering flavours of orange blossom and lime zest, followed by gravelly slate on the finish,” she said.

“The 2014 St Francis Xavier epitomises the variety’s great purity and elegance with its

floral style, delicate citrus character and

lingering minerality.”

See the Tiber wine offer for the last opportunity to purchase the acclaimed 2013 Inigo Riesling and 2013 St Francis Xavier Single-Vineyard Riesling. The 2014 Rieslings will be featured in our November telephone wine offer or you can visit www.sevenhill.com.au to order from early November.

Br John May inducted into Clare Valley Wine Hall of Fame

Sevenhill Cellars’ Jesuit Winemaker Emeritus, Brother John May SJ, has been named as an inaugural member of the Clare Valley Wine Hall of Fame.

Br John was one of six Legends Awards presented at the Black Tie & Pearls Gala Dinner in May to celebrate the Gourmet Weekend’s 30th anniversary and launch of the 2014 event.

More than 300 people attended the dinner, which featured a stunning video presentation for each of the six recipients before they received their Legends Award.

Br John, who came to Sevenhill and the Clare Valley in 1963, was typically modest in his acceptance speech.

“Life is full of surprises and this Legend Award is certainly that,” he said.

“I have only been in the Clare Valley for the past 50 years, but I am delighted to receive this honour.”

Other recipients of the Legends Award were: The late Carl Sobels (Quelltaller Winery), the late Mick Knappstein (Stanley Wine Company, later known as Leasingham Wines), the late Jim Barry (Jim Barry Wines), Jane Mitchell (Mitchell Wines) and Jeffrey Grosset, (Grosset Wines).

Br John said he was proud to receive the award in such distinguished company.

“I think it’s a privilege and a great honour with names like Jim Barry, Mick Knappstein and Carl Sobels – great men of the South Australian wine industry,” he said.

The launch of the Clare Valley Wine Hall of Fame is an initiative of the Clare Valley Winemakers Inc to recognise those who have made a significant contribution to long and proud history of grapegrowing and winemaking in the Clare Valley, a premium wine region in South Australia.

The Hall of Fame nominations were assessed by a panel, which included Wine Writer Huon Hooke, Winemaker Tim Knappstien, Winemaker Andrew Hardy, Chair of the Clare Valley Winemakers Neil Paulett and Chair of the Clare Valley Grapegrowers, Troy Vandulken.

Br John’s first vintage at Sevenhill in 1963 came soon after he arrived from Melbourne as a young Jesuit Brother to work as an assistant to the then Jesuit Winemaker, Brother John Hanlon, SJ.

Br John’s first year at Sevenhill coincided with the start of a new era in wine production. The first airbag wine press was installed at Sevenhill in 1963 and in 1968 the first dry white table wine was made from Crouchen (Clare Riesling) grapes.

Br John joined the Jesuits in 1949, training at Loyola College in the Melbourne suburb of Watsonia. After working at Sevenhill from 1963 to 1969, he returned to Loyola College in 1969 where he was manager of a large retreat house and novitiate.

However, when Br Hanlon died suddenly in February 1972, Br John was recalled to Sevenhill to become the seventh Jesuit Winemaker. As manager of winemaking and viticulture, he embarked on a program to improve the winery buildings and facilities, and the vineyards were expanded using the best clones of varieties suitable to the Clare Valley in conjunction with the then Department of Agriculture (now Primary industries).

In addition to his work at Sevenhill, Br John contributed to the community in many ways, including chairmanship of the Clare Valley Tourism Association and membership of the Vine Improvement and Landcare organisations,

Br John retired from winemaking in 2003, with his stewardship distinguished by the development of Sevenhill’s reputation for quality table wines, the growth of its cellar door and visitor recognition of Sevenhill as an important location of religious and heritage character. His contribution to the wine industry was recognised with life membership of the Winemakers’ Federation of Australia in 2004. He also received the Harry Dowling Award for excellence in regional tourism at the 2005 South Australian Tourism Awards.

Br John’s passionate advocacy of Sevenhill and the Clare Valley continues through his active role in the winery’s activities, including public tours and hosting visiting media.

Br John receives his Legends Award from the Chair of Clare Valley Winemakers Inc, Neil Paulett.

For those not familiar with the Riesling and Rattler trails in the Clare Valley, a new brochure provides additional helpful information about the popular recreational pathway.

Published by the Riesling Trail Management Committee, the brochure includes a new feature for cyclists and walkers, which highlights the profile gradient and elevation at towns and other key points along the trails. Depending on your direction, you can be either climbing or descending on the trails.

The Rattler Trail shows a gentle climb over 14 kilometres from Riverton in the south (265 metres), through Rhynie (305m) to Auburn at its northern end (312m).

Heading north along the Riesling Trail from Auburn to Clare (27 kilometres), the trail climbs through Leasingham (385m), Watervale (415m) to its highest point at Penwortham at 490m). Heading north it’s a gentle slope to Sevenhill (465m) and Clare (400m).

The eight-kilometre section from Clare to Barinia (397m) in the north has a kind slope from the mid-point near White Hut at 446m.

The new brochure has a detailed map of both trails, with extensive information about wineries and other facilities and services available in towns along the trails. Sevenhill Cellars is readily accessible from the Riesling Trail via a bike path that connects near the College Road crossing.

For those who are keen to venture further afield, the brochure provides information about five optional loops that are based on public roads and take cyclists to notable Clare Valley areas, such as the Polish Hill Valley and Spring Gully Conservation Park. These loops are more suited to experienced cyclists and are not recommended for groups or families with young children.

The committee has also published a brochure on native birds of the Riesling Trail which

identifies more than 60 species that can be found along the pathway, many of which are located in areas between Sevenhill and Watervale that have been identified as good bird habitat.

For more in formation on the Riesling Trail, visit www.rieslingtrail.com.au

Shakespeare in the Vines will take on a new approach in 2015 with staging of the classic work, Macbeth, as a night performance.

Traditionally, Shakespeare in the Vines at Sevenhill has been an early evening event, but Essential Theatre’s Artistic Directors Sophie Lampel and Amanda LaBonte believe that a later start to the performance will be more in keeping with the dark nature of Macbeth.

Shakespeare in the Vines will be staged at Sevenhill on Friday, February 27, and Saturday, February 28, 2015, with the performance of Macbeth starting at 7pm.

As a celebration of 13 years on the road with Shakespeare in the Vines, Sophie and Amanda feel there is no better way to honour this milestone than by tackling Macbeth, which they describe as a wonderful and challenging work from the Bard.

“Macbeth is undoubtedly one of Shakespeare’s most powerful and popular works and Essential Theatre is excited to be performing this in the grounds of this fabulous winery,” they said.

Tempted by the prophecies of three mysterious witches, Macbeth’s ambition to be King of Scotland leads him into a nightmarish world of evil, deceit, and murder.

According to Sophie and Amanda, this classic

tale of power, superstition and madness will be like nothing audiences have seen from Essential Theatre.

“In a time where people are hooked on Game of Thrones and House of Cards - where ambition drives decisions at any cost, Essential Theatre take it back to where it all began,” they said.

“Macbeth will be raw, edgy and entertaining. As the sun sets, the dark night approaches and the witches come out to play, let yourself

be taken on this tremendous journey.”

Macbeth is bound to impress as these passionate theatre makers re-interpret the classic texts for modern audiences delivering

vibrant and engaging productions.

Tickets for the 2015 Shakespeare in the Vines will be available from early November through an Early Bird offer ($40) until December 31, 2014, after which they will be $45.

A handle on the Riesling Trail’s hills

The dark side with Shakespeare’s Macbeth

St Ignatius’ uncompromising commitment to quality

Auburn Hotel rises to the top

The Rising Sun Hotel at Auburn has reinforced its reputation for outstanding food with another major industry award.

The heritage-listed hotel won the Best Country Bistro and Dining Award at the recent 2014 Australian Hotels Association, South Australian Hotel Industry Awards for Excellence.

The Rising Sun took out the same title in 2013 and went on to win the regional category at the AHA’s National Awards for Excellence.

The awards underline the development of the hotel since it was taken over by locals, Ken and Paula Noack, in 2011, supported by the

involvement of their daughters, Sarah and

Ella, and head chef James Kolencik.

An emphasis on local produce, a menu that

regularly changes and access to a wide range

of Clare Valley wines, including Sevenhill

Cellars, have made the hotel a firm favourite

with locals and visitors.

Hotel Manager Sarah Noack said the latest

award also reflected the high standards and

the enthusiasm of staff who were thrilled with

the back-to-back success. “This award is

wonderful recognition for the hotel and all our

team,” she said.

The Rising Sun was established in 1851 and is considered one of the oldest and most loved hotels in South Australia. Today, the Rising Sun offers 10 rooms for accommodation, including the quaint, old world charm of the mews.

Contact the Rising Sun on (08) 8849 2015 or visit www.risingsunhotel.com.au

Complex is a word often used as a wine descriptor, as reviewers and others search for the right tone to their discussion of wine.

When we talk about the intricate process to produce Sevenhill’s St Ignatius Bordeaux-style blend, Winemaker Liz Heidenreich certainly agrees that this is certainly a wine that involves a complex task for each vintage, which incorporates four varieties – Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc.

The consistent high quality of the St Ignatius, reinforced by the newly-released 2012 vintage, reflects an uncompromising commitment to premium status that begins in the vineyard with very careful assessment of the fruit so that each variety is picked in peak condition. This process is spread over about four weeks, usually beginning in March, with Merlot normally picked first, followed by Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Malbec.

Not only are there different varieties, but there are also different blocks, each with their own character and ripening time, so numerous batches are picked at different times, ranging from quite small (3 tonnes) up to larger parcels of nine tonnes.

All four varieties are crushed into open slate fermenters where they stay on skins for 12-14 days, with gentle hand plunging three times a day. (Plunging is when the “cap” of skins is pushed back below the surface to capture flavor and colour.) Following fermentation, the batches are basket-pressed and transferred to barrels for malolactic (secondary) fermentation.

Oak is another key element in maintaining the elegant style of the St Ignatius. Oak selection

can vary slightly each year, depending on the season and how “big” the fruit is, but in general terms, the Cabernet Sauvignon has 40% new French oak, with remaining oak two-to-five years old. The Merlot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc have 25% new French oak. Post malolactic fermentation, the wine is left in individual batches in barrel to mature for about 18 months.

After this ageing period, Liz begins the exacting task of tasting each barrel in preparation for the next critical stage of blending. “This is the time to pick the best barrels and start making representative blends on the ‘bench’,” she says.

“This process can take quite some time to perfect, and needs to be revisited over several weeks. The best barrels of all four varieties are selected to put a blend together that has incredible structure, intense flavour profile and long fine tannins on the finish.

“The wine is built to drink as a young wine but really becomes a gem as it ages. The fruit weight and intensity from the low yielding, old vines give the wine plenty of ageing potential.

“The spicy, cedar tannins from the oak are to complement and integrate with the juicy

2012: Incredible intensity of flavourThe 2012 St Ignatius comes from an exceptional vintage in the Clare Valley and these favourable conditions are reflected in the wine’s character.

“This wine has incredible intensity of flavour, with rich plums, blueberries and spice on the nose,” Liz says.

“Merlot is usually lower in tannins and acidity, and this component adds lush, plummy, fruit impact on the mid palate, which complements the more austere structured tannins of the Cabernet Sauvignon.

“The Cabernet Franc has rich fruit cake and spice, while the Malbec has deep purple colour with violets and plums on the palate, also with robust tannins.

“The result is a well-balanced wine, rich in flavour and intensity, with robust tannins that will age and increase in complexity of the next 10-12 years.”

See the Tiber wine offer to purchase the 2012 St Ignatius.

The Rising Sun Hotel was established in 1851, the same year as Sevenhill Cellars.

fruit tannins, giving added palate weight, and a long finish. The oak should not be the dominant component, merely there to support and enhance the fruit.

José Paim Bruges, of Tradition Rebuilt Stonemasony.

Sevenhill’s quarries are again producing stone to maintain the historic buildings on the property.

Just as the Jesuits obtained stone from two quarries when they settled on the land in the 1850s, recent repairs to the College building were undertaken using sandstone and slate from the same quarries.

The work involved replacement of copings on the northern end of the building, demolition and construction of a chimney and installation of a new monumental cross at the peak of the northern roofline.

The repairs were necessary because the stonework had deteriorated through long-term weathering over more than 140 years. Replacement of the copings was particularly important, as these stone features protect the top of the building’s walls from wet weather.

The work was undertaken by a skilled team of three led by stonemason José Paim Bruges, of Tradition Rebuilt Stonemasony, which specialises in the restoration and conservation of stone buildings.

Perched above the College’s roofline on an intricate scaffold during the project, José said the restoration had great significance from an historical perspective.

“We are here working just like the original craftsmen did so long ago,” he said.

“Working on the new cross really showed how skilled they were. Many of the principles remain the same, but we have the advantage of some modern equipment.

“Even so, it was a very delicate job, particularly the stonework for the cross and placing it in position. We had to ensure it was extremely secure without any real pressure around the base.”

The College building was built in two stages, with the south wing constructed between 1854-1856 and the west wing was completed in 1868.

Know as St Aloysius’ College, it operated as a boarding school from 1856-1886. From 1866 until 1884, it also housed Australians undertaking their initial training as Jesuits and it was home to an expanding Jesuit community.

Today, the building is know locally as the College and remains the home of the Jesuit community.

Try Apera in a delightful dessertWith the warmer months coming up, we thought it might be interesting to try a dessert recipe for our September issue.Home-made ice cream is a real treat and with this recipe you can use your own quince paste if you are fortunate enough to have access to this old-fashioned fruit which has become popular again. Otherwise, quince paste is readily available from supermarkets and gourmet shops.QUINCE PASTE AND APERA ICE CREAMINGREDIENTS200g quince paste¼ cup (60ml) Sevenhill Rich Sweet Apera (Sherry)800ml pure cream (thin)1/3 cup (80ml) water1 vanilla bean, split, seeds scraped¾ cup (165g) caster sugar8 free-range egg yolks

METHOD

1. Place quince paste, Apera and 1/3 cup (80ml) water in a small pan over low heat. Stir for 4-5 minutes until paste dissolves and mixture is syrupy. Remove from heat and cool to room temperature.2. Place cream and vanilla pod and seeds in a pan over medium heat for 4-5 minutes until just below boiling point. Remove from heat and set aside to infuse for 20 minutes.3. Gently whisk sugar and yolks in a bowl until pale and thick. Whisk into the cream. 4. Strain cream into a clean pan, then place over low heat, stirring constantly, for 10 minutes or until it thickens and coats the back of a spoon. Remove from heat and pour custard into a clean bowl. Allow to cool for about 20 minutes, then stir in quince paste. Cool to room temperature.5. Churn in an ice-cream maker, according to manufacturer’s instructions, which should not take more than 20 minutes. Alternatively, pour into a shallow container and freeze for two hours or until frozen at the edges. Remove from freezer and beat with an electric beater. Pour back into a container and refreeze. Repeat 2 or 3 times, then freeze until ready to serve.

Sevenhill Cellars

111C College Road, Sevenhill, South AustraliaT: (08) 8843 4222 F: (08) 8843 4382 E: orders@sevenhill.com.au www.sevenhill.com.au Twitter: @SevenhillWinesPRINTED ON 100% RECYCLED CERTIFIED AND AUSTRALIAN MADE PAPER

Stonework repeats practices of the past