Cutting Room

Costs

The cutting room has a greater effect on excessive manufacturing costs than any other department concerned with the actual production of garments.

Internal costs – those incurred in the cutting room itself.

External costs – those incurred by other departments as a result of the malfunctions of the cutting room.

Internal costs

Labour : Effective utilisation

Material : 50% to 70% of the cost price of most of the mass produced clothing and largest cost component of a garment

Efficiency

Pattern accuracy

Marker waste

Spreading waste

The factors influencing materials utilization

External costs

Coordination Defects Matching Accuracy Sewing Shading Quality

Production Process in the Cutting Room

Planning

Spreading

Cutting

Preparation for sewing

Planning

Spreading

Cutting

Preparation for sewing

Spreads

Markers

Production

Manual

Machine

Machine

Die Press

Computer

Shade marking/ticketing

Bundles

Production process in the Cutting Room

Cut order planning

It translates customer orders into cutting orders

coordinate customer orders with all the variables of marker

making, spreading, and cutting

minimize total production costs

meet deadlines

seek most effective use of labor, equipment, fabric and space

Responsibilities of Cut Order Planning

Examining incoming orders and piece goods width and availability

Determining volume, size ratios, and sectioning procedures for marker

making

Determining whether file markers are available or new ones are needed

Developing specifications for optimum marker making and fabric utilization

Determine most effective use of spreading and cutting equipment and

personnel

Issuing orders for marker making, spreading and cutting

Most common considerations1) Number of sizes in order2) Number of colors in order3) Max/min number of sizes allowed in marker4) Maximum spread length5) Maximum ply height6) Percentage of overcut or undercut units7) Fabric cost per yard 8) Usable cloth width9) Width variation10) Common lines among pattern pieces11) Costs of marking markers, spreading, cutting, bundling12) Fabric roll change time

Cutting Orders Leads to

Marker planning Lay planning

Results of Cut Order Planning

Marker planning is to determine the most efficient combination of

sizes and shades for each order and to produce the best fabric yield and equipment utilization

Lay is a stack of fabric plies that have been prepared

for cutting

Lay planning is the basis of managing cutting room labor and

table space

Marker Making

Marker is a diagram of a precise arrangement of pattern

pieces for a specific style and the sizes to be cut from a single spread.

Marker Making is the process of determining the most efficient

layout of pattern pieces for a specified style, fabric, and distribution of sizes (requires time, skill and concentration)

Marker Making

Manually produced Computerized marker making

Dimensions of marker Markers are made to fit the cuttable widths of

fabrics. Blocked or sectioned markers contain all of the

pattern pieces for one style in one or two sizes. Continuous markers contain all the pattern

pieces for all sizes included in a single cutting. Splice marks are points in marker where fabric can be cut and the next piece overlapped to maintain a continuous spread. They are planned in continuous marker.

A STEPPED SPREAD

plies of varied length, spread at different heights

used to adjust the quantity of piece goods to the

number of garments to be cut from each section of

the marker

Sections may be joined to form multi-size marker.

Pattern parts of one size in close proximity.

Advantageous when there is end-to-end shade

variations.

a. Sectioned or Blocked Marker

Contain all pattern pieces for all sizes included in

a single cutting.

Pattern pieces are grouped by size and shape of

the pieces rather than by garment size.

Better utilization because more flexibility in

grouping and manoeuvring large pieces and small

pieces.

b. Continuous Marker

Splice marks are points in a marker where

fabrics can be cut and the next piece overlapped

to maintain a continuous spread.

Maybe 1 inch or more.

Splices are needed when flaws are removed, a

roll change is made, or a short length of fabric is

used.

SPLICE MARKER

Splice marks are inherent when markers are

planned in blocks.

Splice marks are used to avoid excessive

fabric waste and incomplete pieces.

SPLICE MARKER

Types of Markers

Open marker – Marker made with full pattern pieces

Closed Marker – Marker made with half garment parts pieces for laying along the folds of the tube (tubular knit)

Open marker

Closed Marker

Marker Modes

Is determined by the symmetry and directionality of fabric.

Nap either way (N/E/W)

Nap one way (N/O/W)

Nap up and down (N/U/D)

The term Nap is used to indicate the fabric is directional.

N/E/W –with symmetric, non directional fabrics, pattern pieces can be placed on a marker with only consideration for grain line

N/O/W – all the pattern pieces be placed on a marker in only one direction, horse print

N/U/D – all pattern pieces of one size to be placed in one direction and another size placed in opposite direction. eg. corduroy

ONE – WAY MARKER

Requirements of Marker Planning

1. Nature of the fabric and the desired result in the finished garment Pattern alignment in relation to the grain of the fabric Symmetry and asymmetry The design characteristic of the finished garment

2. The requirements of cutting quality 3. The requirements of production planning

Marker Efficiency

Area of patterns in the marker plan X 100%

Total area of the marker plan

It is determined for fabric utilization

Minimum waste

Factors effecting Marker Efficiency

Fabric characteristics

Characteristics of Pattern pieces, splitting

pattern pieces and creating a seam , reducing

seam allowances, hemwidth, adjusting and

modifying grainline, etc

Difference in face and back – print,

velvet, corduroy

Lengthwise directionality - NAP

Crosswise symmetry – Border print

Need for matching the fabric design

– mitering

Length of design repeat – small/big

checks

Fabric width.

Markers containing large and small pcs

The shape of pattern pcs.

Large pcs – less flexibility

Patterns are sometimes modified to increase efficiency

Splitting pattern pcs. and creating a

seam

Rounding or slanting corners

Reducing seam allowance and/or

hem width

Adjusting pattern dimensions

without noticeable change to fit &

style.

Adjusting grain lines for hidden

garment parts.

Modifying grain lines specified by

the designer

Plotting

The process of drawing or printing pattern pieces or markers on paper so they can be reviewed or cut.

Spreadingprocesses of superimposing lengths of fabric

on a spreading table cutting table or specially designed surface in preparation for the cutting process

Spread or lay-uptotal amount of fabric prepared for a single

marker.

Spreading mode

Direction of the fabric: it may be positioned in two ways face-to-

face (F/F) or with all plies facing-one-way (F/O/W)

Direction of the Fabric Nap: it may be positioned nap-one-way (N/O/W)

or nap-up-down

Spreading mode is the manner in which fabric plies are laid out for cutting

Spreading modes

F/O/WN/O/W

F/FN/O/W

F/FN/U/D

F/O/WN/U/D

Requirements of Spreading process Shade sorting of cloth pieces Correct ply direction and adequate lay stability Alignment of plies Correct ply tension Elimination of fabric faults Avoidance of distortion in the spread Avoidance of fusion of plies during cutting

Setup for spreading

Verifying cutting orders Positioning materials Preparing cutting tables Preparing machines Loading machine

Reloading and delay time may use up to 70% of the time required for the entire spreading operation.

Methods of spreading

Spreading by hand Spreading using a travelling machine

(100 to 150 yards per minute)

Fabric control devices

Tensioning involves synchronizing the rate of

spreading with the rate fabric is unrolled

Positioning devices and sensors monitor

position and control fabric placement during

spreading. (to improve quality in spreading)

Fabric control devices

Width indicators may sound an alarm to alert

the operator when fabric becomes narrower

than the established width

End treatment device are used with spreaders

but are separate and placed at the end of the

spread (end catcher and folding blade)

The nature of fabric packages

Open fabric – rolled Tubular knitted fabric – rolled Folded fabric – rolled Folded fabric – cuttled Velvet - hanging

Open fabric – rolled

Folded fabric – rolled

Tubular knitted fabric – rolled

Spreading costs

Labour cost Fabric Waste

Splicing loss occurs with excessive overlap at splice marks

End loss occurs when the spreader reaches the end of the marker and fabric must be cut from the roll or folded back for the return lap

Width loss occurs when the fabric is wider than the marker and the extra fabric is not used

Equipment purchase

Cut order plan

Cutting room manager issues lays to satisfy two requirements:

The targets given in the cutting scheduleThe most economic batch size (economic

cut quantity)

Overview of economic cut quantity factors

MARKER UTILISATION

ECONOMIC CUT QUANTITIES

CUSTOMER REQUIREMENTS

Number of sizes

Fabric Properties

Equipment constraints

Width of fabric Marker Type

Contract details

Quality constraints

Sewing room needs

Labour costs

Essential laying losses

Production rates Delivery deadlines

Material availability

Disruptions

Cutting plan example 1

The contract details are as followsSize 10 12 14 16 18Quantity 40 90 80 25 25

The constraints on lay dimensions are:

Maximum lay height = 50 plies

Maximum lay length = 4 garments marked

The limit of four garments marked may seem rather contrived but it allows the concepts to be explained more easily

It is useful to determine the theoretical minimum number of lays required to cut the contract:

Max no of gmts per lay is 4X50=200gmts The no. of gmts required = 40+90+80+25+25

=260 gmts

There fore the theoretical minimum no. of lays = 260/200 = 1.3

This gives a practical minimum of two lays to cut the contract – the best that is possible

Lay 1

Lay 2

The worked solution is:

12141410

12121816

Lay 2 – 40 plies

Lay 1 – 25 plies

Size 10 12 14 16 18Quantity 40 90 80 25 25

The contract details

Cutting plan example 2

The contract details are followsSize 12 14 16 18Quantity 100 160 120 60

the constraints on lay dimensions are:

Maximum lay height = 60 plies

Maximum lay length = 4 garments marked

Theoretical minimum no. of lays required are:

Max no of garments per lay is 4X60=240 gmtsThe no. of garments required = 100+160+120+60

= 440 garments

There fore the theoretical minimum no. of lays = 440/240 = 1.83

This gives a practical minimum of two lays to cut the contract.

Lay 1

Lay 2

16 181816

14141212

Lay 1- 60 plies

Lay 2 – 50 plies

Cutting plan example 3

The contract details are as follows:

Size S M LQuantity 300 600 400

The constraints on lay dimensions are:

Maximum lay height = 75 pliesMaximum lay length = 5 garments marked

Theoretical minimum no. of lays required are:

Max no of garments per lay is 5X75 = 375 gmtsThe no. of garments required = 300+600+400

= 1300 garmentsThere fore the theoretical minimum no. of lays = 1300/375

= 3.47

This gives a practical minimum of four lays to cut the contract.

S S S S S

LM M M

LM

L

MM

M M M L L

L

Lay 1- 60 plies

Lay 2 - 75 plies

Lay 3 - 75 plies

Lay 4 - 50 plies

COSTING OF CUT ORDER PLAN – MATERIAL COSTS ( Example 4) You have received the following contract:

Quantity 1200Size A B C D EQuantity 1 2 4 2

1Single gmt marker lengths (m) : 2.0 2.2 2.4 2.5 2.6

Other relevant information:End allowance 3 cm per plyMaximum number of plies 100Maximum lay length 10 metersCost of the fabric is 3$Cloth saving on multi-size or multi-garment marker is 5%

1. Determine targets:Theoretical minimum no. of lays is a little more

complicated as the maximum no. of garments must be inferred. Since the average length is about 2.3 m per garment, the maximum number marked will be 4

Theoretical minimum no. of lays = 1200/4X100 = 3

Since quantities are not in multiples of 100, three lays is an impossibility consequently, the target must be four lays

2. Consider options 3. Make decision

CCB

EEAA

DCCB

DCCB

D

Lay 4 - 80 plies

Lay 3 - 80 plies

Lay 2- 80 plies

Lay 1- 60 plies

4. Calculation of material

Marker for lay 1 (2.0+2.0+2.6+2.6) X 95/100 = 8.740 m

Marker for lays 2-4 (2.2+2.4+2.4+2.5) X 95/100 = 9.025 m

Ply lengthsPly length for lay 1 8.740 + 0.030 = 8.770 mPly length for lays 2-4 9.025 + 0.030 = 9.055 m

Lay lengthsLay length for lay 1 8.770 X 60 = 526.20 mLay length for lays 2-4 9.055 X 80= 724.40 m

Material costsTotal length 526.20 + (724.40 X3) = 2699.40 mTotal cost 2699.40 X 3.00 = 8098.20 $