september 2011 lookbook

8/6/2019 September 2011 Lookbook

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www.voguepatterns.comVOGUE PATTERNS August/September 2011

5 Editors Letter

6 Mailbox

8 What Are You Sewing?

10 Edi tors Choice

29 The Selfish Seamstress:Sewing Therapy

23 Web Watch

88 Guide to Patterns &

Fabric Requirements

91 Body MeasurementsCharts

94 Crossword

96 Thread Tales

97 Fabric & AccessoryGuide

in every issue

Donna Karans knock-out knit tur

with lots of ruching, V1259, Misse

Hairand Makeup: Joseph Bogge

Photographed by Brian Kraus.

on the cover

p. 87 p. 20

p. 13

p. 75

44 SMALL, SMALL, SMALLPati Palmer offers advice onmaking alterations for thesmaller figure.

48 PROJECT ONE:BOILED WOOL POCKETAn easy technique with lotsof chic.

50 PROJECT TWO:LOOP THE LOOP BELTA quick and easy belt withroom for expansion.

54 THE GREAT PRETENDERS:LEATHER-LOOK FABRICSTips and techniques for sewingwith this seasons hot fabric.

www.voguepatterns.com VOGUE PATTERNS August/September 2011

52 ONE PANT, FOUR LOOKSWide-leg pants are hot for fall.

60 FALL 2011 DESIGNER UPDATEThe best looks from 7th Avenue.

72 DYNAMIC DUOMarcy and Katherine Tilton.

74 TODAYS FIT BY SANDRABETZINAUnexpected details in flatteringsilhouettes.

76 KEY PIECESEasy-to-make, easy-to-weardresses, shirts and skirts.

82 WORKING WARDROBESolid choices for your busylifestyle...all in one pattern.

84 JACKETS REQUIREDThe most sophisticated coolweather cover ups.

12 SEWING RETREATSSandra Betzinas guide to what tobring...from supplies to attitude.

14 SEWING MACHINESHOPPING GUIDETop 20 topics to help youget what you want and whatyou need.

20 HAVE SCISSORS, WILLTRAVELMeet Nayantara Banerjee, thetailor who makes house calls.

24 CONVERTING A ONE-PIECESLEEVE INTO A TWO-PIECEKathryn Brenne teaches the finerpoints of this transformation.

30 KEEPING DIY STYLEALL IN THE FAMILYErica Bunkers point of view onstretching your wardrobe.

32 INSIDE EDITIONLinda Griepentrog uncoversthe secrets of fashions supportsystem.

36 LET THE FABRIC SPEAKYour imagination can be yourguide when you add uniquetouches to fabric.

40 NORTH STARSInspired by the beauty of theCanadian Arctic, students riseto the fashion challenge atTorontos Creativ Festival.

fashion features

contents A U G U S T / S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 1p. 67 p. 96

p. 14

p. 77


3/7

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THE BEST OF

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www.voguepatterns.com VOGUE PATTERNS August/September 2011

what areyou sewing?

made this dress for my daughter Victorias prom two years ago. It was a Tom and Linda PlattPattern V2964. It was a pleasure to sew and the multisizing of the pattern made the fitting very easy.

She received many compliments and no one had the same dress.Susan Blackburn

Have you made something youre very proud of? Do the compliments keep coming?

f so, send us a picture and a short description and well feature it here as inspiration for

your fellow readers.

In each issue, well randomly select one person from this feature to receive a FREE one-year

subscription to Vogue Patterns magazine. Send your photo to [email protected].
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www.voguepaVOGUE PATTERNS August/September 2011

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ojectone

VOGUE PATTERNS August/September 2011

INSPIRED BY A DESIGNER GARMENT SEEN IN A SOHO BOUTIQUE,

this simple pocket will make an interesting addition to a coat made

of boiled wool, fleece or any non-fraying fabric. The beauty of

the pocket is that it isnt bulky, and is somewhat inconspicuous,

consisting of the outer fabric and one layer to be used as the pocket

bag. The sample shown here is for a classic U-shaped flap, but

you can be creative and make it any shape you choosesquare, V,

scalloped or asymmetrical. You can also be creative with your use of

fabrics. The boiled wool used in the sample is plain gray on one side

and black lace on the opposite. When the flap is lifted the black laceis on the underside. The pocket bag (under layer of fabric) could

have shown the black lace side of the fabric, or could have been

made from a different color fabric so that when the flap is lifted you

have a contrast. Use your imagination for a truly unique design.

1. Create a flap template. The template shown here is 2 " x 6,"

with rounded lower corners. (Note: A 6" pocket opening is large

enough to accommodate a hand, but not so wide that it will gape

open when worn.) To ensure that the rounded corners are perfectly

symmetrical, trace a 2 " x 6" rectangle on a piece of paper and

cut it out. Fold it in half vertically and draw the rounded corner. Glue

the pattern to a thin piece of cardboard (cereal box) with the traced

line facing up and cut out carefully.

2. Chalk mark the flap onto the garment using the template as a

guide. Stitch the lower edge of the flap on top of the marking using

heavy duty topstitching thread and a stitch length of 3.5mm. Leave

long thread tails at the beginning and end and do not backstitch.

Instead, pull the thread tails through to the wrong side, knot and

bury in the fabric.

3. Chalk mark the pocket bag outline. For this example a

rectangular shape (7" x 9") is used, but you can create any type

of shape to suit your flap (i.e. circular, triangular, heart, etc.).The top

of the pocket bag marking is aligned with the top edge of the flap.

4. Position a piece of fabric slightly larger than the pocket beneath

the marking. For this pocket, the fabric is 9" x 11". Pin in place

to hold.

5. Stitch through all layers using a stitch length of 3.5mm and thesame topstitching thread. Leave long thread tails and pull them

through to the wrong side, knot and bury in the fabric. Press.

6. Using small, sharp embroidery scissors carefully cut through the

top layer of fabric about 1/8" away from the pocket flap stitching line,

creating the flap.

Kathryn Brenne is the owner of The Academy of Fine Sewing &

Design. Visit her website www.finesewing.com to see a complete

listing of workshops and tours.

www.voguepatterns.com

simpleflap pocket for boiled wool

by Kathryn Brenne

3"

fold

line2"

1

1

2


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Claire Shaeffers Custom Couture Collection, V8652 Misses 8-22.

Earrings:Kenneth Jay Lane

Earringsand Necklace:Patricia Von Musulin

CuPa

Ring:KennethJay Lane

Bracelet:KennethJay Lane

Shoes:Halston Heritageat Designs byStephene.com

Shoes:Guiseppe Zanottiat Designs by Stephene.com www.voguepaVOGUE PATTERNS August/September 2011

Ca

Clutch:M.C.L. by MatthewCampbell Laurenza

ne Pant, Four Looks!e-leg pants are hot for fall. Theyre perfect for work, weekend or a night on the town.

Earrings and Bracelet:Tuleste Market

Bracelets:Elizabeth Cole

Earrings:Elizabeth Cole

h:on Heritagesigns byene.com

Gloves:Carolina Amato

Handbag:Z Spoke by Zac Posenat Designs byStephene.com

Shoes:Gastone Lucioliat Designs by Stephene.com


Shoes:Georgina Goodmanat Designs by Stephene.com
http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v8652-products-11104.php?page_id=264http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v8652-products-11104.php?page_id=264


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www.voguepVOGUE PATTERNS August/September 2011

StylingReal leather garments are designed to accommodate the size

and shape of animal skins. To duplicate this look, choose

a pattern with lots of smaller pieces seamed together, such

as Todays Fit V1198 or Very Easy Vogue V8714. Looking

for something unconventional? We matched an ultra-drapey

faux leather with Very Easy Vogue V8756, a j acket with

cascading collar. If youre not ready to try an entire garment

of pleather, consider using it as an accent on yokes, collars,

pockets or cuffs, as in Anne Klein V1264, or on an accessory,

such as handbags V8760. Faux leather is also great for belts

and hats.

LayoutFaux leather is produced with a backing fabric, which

often a knit. Although a knit has give in both direction

lengthwise grain is usually stable while the crosswise

quite a bit of stretch. The pattern can be laid out follow

lengthwise grain of the fabric.

Tools & SettingsA Microtex 130/705 H-M or a Jeans 130/705 H-J need

70 will work well to penetrate the coating of the fabric. B

types of needles have a very sharp tip and thin shaft. Fo

samples shown on the next page a Jeans needle was us

For the buttonhole, a Microtex needle worked better to

skipped stitches. If skipped stitches are a problem, try a

larger-sized needle.

A regular presser foot will work well to sew the seam

initially as the foot rides over the knit backing. Howeve

will need a Teflon

presser foot for any topstitching. WTeflon foot, the presser foot will stick to the fabric res

small stitches and uneven feeding of the layers. On m

machine, I used the built-in walking foot along with Tefl

Lengthen the stitch slightly so that there are not as

holes close together, which can lead to tearing. For se

a stitch length of 2.7mm; for edgestitching and topstit

a stitch length of 3 mm. All-purpose 100% polyester t

suitable for sewing faux leather.

WARNINGS It is best to test out the fit of the garment by sewing a

test garment. Stitching in faux leather will leave permanent

holes.

Pins will leave permanent holes in the fabric. Instead use

weights to hold the pattern in place and a rotary cutter to

cut the fabric.

Do not use a tracing wheel and paper as it may leave a

permanent mark on the fabric. Pattern markings such as

dots, darts and pocket placements can be transferred to the

wrong side of the fabric using a soft lead pencil.

Faux leather can be warm to wear as it does not breathe

well. Add a couple of eyelets to the underarms of garments,

allowing them to breathe.

V1198

(continued

www.voguepatterns.com

chnical tips


he great pretenders:

leather-look fabrics by Kathryn Brenne

Synthetic leather has been around for a long time, but it has not always had a good reputation; in fact, it has

been jokingly nicknamed pleather (plastic-leather). The good news is t hat recent technology has improved

faux leathers to the point where they are hard to tell apart from t he real thing. The variety of weights, textures

and colors are nearly limitless and are available in a wide price range, making them a great alternative to

leather. Fashion forecasters predict that leather is going to be hot for fall 2011, so take our stitching advice

and be prepared to add some to your wardrobe. If youve never sewn with themor havent tried them in a

long timenows the time to give them a try.

V8756 V8760


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