sensorial evaluations - .innollient™ lo at work skin barrier skin resiliency estolide structures

Download Sensorial evaluations - .innollient™ LO at work Skin barrier Skin resiliency Estolide structures

Post on 11-Nov-2018

212 views

Category:

Documents

0 download

Embed Size (px)

TRANSCRIPT

  • 2012 by Innovacos corp. All rights reserved Conception and design Symbiose design-graphique

    Background

    Efficacy

    Formulation

    innollientLOinnollient LO is a liquid estolide (an ester linkage of one fatty acid to the hydroxyl

    group of a second one) mainly composed of saturated and unsaturated fatty

    acids displaying hydrophilic groups with high affinity for water molecules. A struc-

    tural feature of innollient LO is the presence of a Guerbet derivative creating a

    lipophilic lateral branch. This derivative imparts fluidity and low-friction characteristics

    to innollient LO and contributes to its low melting point. The main benefits provided

    by innollient LO are the spreadability index and a unique skin feel coupled to a

    significant improvement of the skin resiliency.

    Clinical actions and sensorial properties Improvement of skin barrier function (TEWL)

    Increase in skin resiliency (cutometry)

    High spreadability index

    Superior emollient action

    Cyclomethicone-like skin feel

    Long-lasting effect

    Technical information INCI (proposed): Octyldodecyl Oleate (and) Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Octyldodecanol

    Soluble in oils

    Recommended use level: 1-10 %

    Ideal for: Skin moisturizing, emollience Improving barrier function Improving formulation texture, gloss Hair care Makeup formulations Improving skin elasticity/resiliency Natural alternative to cyclomethicone Sunscreen solubilization/dispersion

    of water and senses www.innovacos.com

  • innollient LO at work

    Skin barrier

    Skin resiliency

    Estolide structures Containing a Guerbet-derivative

    Creation of hydrophilic pockets

    High spreadability index

    Promotes skin hydration

    Cyclomethicone-like feel

    Long-lasting effect

    Clinical efficacy

    One single application of a formulation containing 3% innollientLO significantly improves the skin barrier function. The positive action is observed already 1 hour after its application and lasts for up to 8 hours

    One single application of a formulation containing 3% innollientLO significantly improves the skin resiliency (cutometry). The positive action is observed already 1 hour after its application and lasts for up to 8 hours

    OO

    O

    O

    O O

    O

    O

    H2O

    H2O H2OH2O

    H2O

    1 hour

    -8

    -4

    -6

    -10

    -2

    0

    8 hours

    % r

    educ

    tion

    in T

    EW

    L vs

    bas

    elin

    e

    Time after product application

    *

    *

    -12

    * p < 0.05 vs Placebo p > 0.05 vs 1 hour

    innollientLO

    Placebo

    1 hour

    2

    5

    3

    4

    1

    6

    7

    8 hours

    % in

    ski

    n re

    silie

    ncy

    vs b

    asel

    ine *

    0

    * p < 0.05 vs Placebo p > 0.05 vs 1 hour

    innollientLO

    Placebo

    *

    innollient LO vs Cyclomethicone

    ClinicalSelf-assessment

    Sensorial evaluations

    innollientLO brings unique senso- rial properties to a formulation. The sensorial profile of innollientLO shows a high spreadability index and advantageously compares to that of cyclomethicone especially for the emolliency parameter

    innollientLO vs Cyclomethicone

    INCI Formula A %Formula B

    % Function

    A

    Glyceryl Stearate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (pending) 5.00 5.00 Emulsifier

    Dicaprylyl Ether 3.50 3.50

    Emollients

    Cetearyl Isononanoate 4.50 4.50

    Dimethicone 1.00 1.00

    Cyclomethicone 2.00

    innollientLO 2.00

    BAqua (Water) up to 100 up to 100

    Glycerin 3.00 3.00 Humectant

    Sodium Polyacrylate 0.30 0.30 Thickener

    C Preservative a.n. a.n. Preservative

    PROCEDURE (O/W emulsion; formulae A and B): Prepare phase A and phase B separately and warm them up to 75C;Add phase A to phase B, at 75C under agitation; Homogenize for a few minutes;Cool down under gentle stirring and add preservative below 40 C (phase C).

    Viscosity after 24h Brk, RVDV-I Prime, Sp 93, 10 rpm: 50.000 55.000 cps pH (100%): 5.0 7.0

    Self-assessment of a formu l ation containing 3% innollientLO, versus placebo, for various sensorial parameters

    20 subjects Assessment after 3 days of use; half-face regimen Placebo-controlled; blind protocol

    innollientLO positively contributes to the sensorial properties of a formulation

    20 6040 80 100

    Appearance ofthe skin improved

    % of positive response

    Skin is smoother

    Skin is more hydrated

    Spreadability

    Texture of the product

    Absorbs quickly

    innollientLO

    Placebo

    Cyclomethicone (Formula A)

    innollientLO (Formula B)

    Cyclomethicone (Formula A)innoLLIENT LO (Formula B)

    Brightness Stickiness

    Film forming effect Absorption

    Spreadability

    Emolliency

    01

    56789

    10

    234

  • innollient LO at work

    Skin barrier

    Skin resiliency

    Estolide structures Containing a Guerbet-derivative

    Creation of hydrophilic pockets

    High spreadability index

    Promotes skin hydration

    Cyclomethicone-like feel

    Long-lasting effect

    Clinical efficacy

    One single application of a formulation containing 3% innollientLO significantly improves the skin barrier function. The positive action is observed already 1 hour after its application and lasts for up to 8 hours

    One single application of a formulation containing 3% innollientLO significantly improves the skin resiliency (cutometry). The positive action is observed already 1 hour after its application and lasts for up to 8 hours

    OO

    O

    O

    O O

    O

    O

    H2O

    H2O H2OH2O

    H2O

    1 hour

    -8

    -4

    -6

    -10

    -2

    0

    8 hours

    % r

    educ

    tion

    in T

    EW

    L vs

    bas

    elin

    e

    Time after product application

    *

    *

    -12

    * p < 0.05 vs Placebo p > 0.05 vs 1 hour

    innollientLO

    Placebo

    1 hour

    2

    5

    3

    4

    1

    6

    7

    8 hours

    % in

    ski

    n re

    silie

    ncy

    vs b

    asel

    ine *

    0

    * p < 0.05 vs Placebo p > 0.05 vs 1 hour

    innollientLO

    Placebo

    *

    innollient LO vs Cyclomethicone

    ClinicalSelf-assessment

    Sensorial evaluations

    innollientLO brings unique senso- rial properties to a formulation. The sensorial profile of innollientLO shows a high spreadability index and advantageously compares to that of cyclomethicone especially for the emolliency parameter

    innollientLO vs Cyclomethicone

    INCI Formula A %Formula B

    % Function

    A

    Glyceryl Stearate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (pending) 5.00 5.00 Emulsifier

    Dicaprylyl Ether 3.50 3.50

    Emollients

    Cetearyl Isononanoate 4.50 4.50

    Dimethicone 1.00 1.00

    Cyclomethicone 2.00

    innollientLO 2.00

    BAqua (Water) up to 100 up to 100

    Glycerin 3.00 3.00 Humectant

    Sodium Polyacrylate 0.30 0.30 Thickener

    C Preservative a.n. a.n. Preservative

    PROCEDURE (O/W emulsion; formulae A and B): Prepare phase A and phase B separately and warm them up to 75C;Add phase A to phase B, at 75C under agitation; Homogenize for a few minutes;Cool down under gentle stirring and add preservative below 40 C (phase C).

    Viscosity after 24h Brk, RVDV-I Prime, Sp 93, 10 rpm: 50.000 55.000 cps pH (100%): 5.0 7.0

    Self-assessment of a formu l ation containing 3% innollientLO, versus placebo, for various sensorial parameters

    20 subjects Assessment after 3 days of use; half-face regimen Placebo-controlled; blind protocol

    innollientLO positively contributes to the sensorial properties of a formulation

    20 6040 80 100

    Appearance ofthe skin improved

    % of positive response

    Skin is smoother

    Skin is more hydrated

    Spreadability

    Texture of the product

    Absorbs quickly

    innollientLO

    Placebo

    Cyclomethicone (Formula A)

    innollientLO (Formula B)

    Cyclomethicone (Formula A)innoLLIENT LO (Formula B)

    Brightness Stickiness

    Film forming effect Absorption

    Spreadability

    Emolliency

    01

    56789

    10

    234

  • 2012 by Innovacos corp. All rights reserved Conception and design Symbiose design-graphique

    Background

    Efficacy

    Formulation

    innollientLOinnollient LO is a liquid estolide (an ester linkage of one fatty acid to the hydroxyl

    group of a second one) mainly composed of saturated and unsaturated fatty

    acids displaying hydrophilic groups with high affinity for water molecules. A struc-

    tural feature of innollient LO is the presence of a Guerbet derivative creating a

    lipophilic lateral branch. This derivative imparts fluidity and low-friction characteristics

    to innollient LO and contributes to its low melting point. The main benefits provided

    by innollient LO are the spreadability index and a unique skin feel coupled to a

    significant improvement of the skin resiliency.

    Clinical actions and sensorial properties Improvement of skin barrier function (TEWL)

    Increase in skin resiliency (cutometry)

    High spreadability index

    Superior emollient action

    Cyclomethicone-like skin feel

    Long-lasting effect

    Technical information INCI: Octyldodecyl Oleate (and) Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Octyldodecanol

    Soluble in oils

    Rec