sauces-msg - 2/2/00Period sauces. Sauce recipes.NOTE: See also the files: aspic-msg, fruit-msg, broths-msg, eggs-msg,diary-prod-msg, almond-milk-msg, vinegar-msg, verjuice-msg, garum-msg.************************************************************************NOTICE -This file is a collection of various messages having a common theme thatI have collected from my reading of the various computer networks. Somemessages date back to 1989, some may be as recent as yesterday.This file is part of a collection of files called Stefans Florilegium.These files are available on the Internet at: http://www.florilegium.orgI have done a limited amount of editing. Messages having to do withseperate topics were sometimes split into different files and sometimesextraneous information was removed. For instance, the message IDs wereremoved to save space and remove clutter.The comments made in these messages are not necessarily my viewpoints. Imake no claims as to the accuracy of the information given by theindividual authors.Please respect the time and efforts of those who have written thesemessages. The copyright status of these messages is unclear at thistime. If information is published from these messages, please givecredit to the orignator(s).Thank you, Mark S. Harris AKA: Lord Stefan li Rous RSVE60@email.sps.mot.com stefan@texas.net************************************************************************From: NRMOLL00@ukcc.UKy.EDU (Nancy R. Mollette)Newsgroups: rec.org.scaSubject: Garlic sauce at lastDate: 15 Dec 1993 18:30:41 -0500This recipe is a translation from a 16th century Italian text:_Libro novo nel qual s'insegna a far d'ogni sorte di vivande secondola diversita de i tempi, cosi di carne come di pesca_ by Cristoforo di Messibugo.Translation and redaction by Basilicus Phocas, a Dragonsmark cook and sometime fighter, MKA Charles Potter.Agliata (Garlic sauce)8 oz walnuts (shelled) or almonds (shelled and skinned)4 slices of white bread2-4 large cloves of garlic, peeled1 1/2 (one and one half) cups of strong chicken stock1 tsp saltRemove the crust from the bread slices. Soak the bread in the chicken stockfor 20 minutes in a crockery bowl.Place the nuts and garlic in a stone mortar and grind very fine with a woodenpestle, then transfer to the bowl containing the bread and broth. Add salt andstir continuously with a wooden spoon for 2 or 3 minutes. Taste for salt. Coverthe bowl and place in the refrigerator for 1 hour. Serve the sauce in a sauceboat. Agliata may also be made by placing all the ingredients together in ablender or food processor. This is very good over rice mixed with butter.Yours in Service,Anna of DragonsmarkNancy R. Mollette nrmoll00@ukcc.uky.edu Your disclaimer here.From: "Philip W. Troy" To: sca-cooks@eden.comDate: Tue, 08 Apr 1997 12:16:57 -0400Subject: Re: Saracen SauceSue Wensel wrote:> What are the ingredients of your Saracen Sauce?> > DerdriuBlanched (presumably peeled) almonds, toasted in olive oil until lightbrown, cooled, and ground into fairly fine meal. Rose hips are anoptional addition, they would make the dish more tart than it would bewithout them. This is then either "drawn up" with hot almond milk, caponbroth, red wine, or some combination thereof. It should be quite thick,and if it isn't thick enough, you can thicken it with rice flour. Itshould be red in color, traditionally alkanet is the standard coloring,but I'm not certain I'd use anything but standard red vegetablecoloring, unless perhaps I used a bit of powdered red sandalwood, whichis also a bit iffy. Standard garnish are a sprinkling of pomegranitecells, berries, seeds, etc (whatever you call them).I don't have a modern redaction at hand, but could probably produce onepretty easily...Hopeful regards,G. Tacitus AdamantiusFrom: "Philip W. Troy" To: sca-cooks@eden.comDate: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 10:18:42 -0400Subject: sca-cooks Re: GarlicMark Harris wrote:> Ok. Now I'm not sure what a "jance" is, but I like Garlic.A jance is any of a variety of French ginger based sauces, usually, butnot, I think, always made with milk. They are similar to a modern whitesauce except for a thickening of bread and/or egg yolks instead offlour, and always contain plenty of ginger. A yellow jance contains somesaffron, a green jance parsley, and garlic jance, well, use yourimagination. You find recipes for them in the Viandier de Taillevent,and probably also in Le Menagier de Paris.> Stefan li RousAdamantiusFrom: "James L. Matterer" Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 21:45:42 -0700Subject: SC - Cameline Meat BrewetGreetings, In response to Derdriu's & Willem's request for a posting of ACameline Meat Brewet, here it is. Looking over the recipe, I think it might be fun to substitute redwine for the water in the Cameline Sauce. I've never tried it, but Ithink I'll have to now that I've thought of it. If anyone makes thisdish, please let me know what you think!Master IanCameline Sauce"Pound ginger, plenty of cinnamon, cardamon, mace, long pepper if youwish, then squeeze out bread soaked in vinegar and strain it alltogether and salt it just right." - Le Viandier de Taillevent, fromFood in History, p. 219.Unlike many sauces, this one is unboiled as per the description in LeViandier de Taillevent, p. 219: "Cameline sauce has cinnamon as itspredominant ingredient and is unboiled." Le Viandier also advises usthat not all sauces contained binding agents (p. 23-24). Bearing that inmind, the bread crumbs have been left out of this version of the recipe.1 c. each cider vinegar and water 1/2 tsp. cinnamon1/4 tsp. each of ginger, cloves, mace, cardamon, pepper, and saltCombine liquids, add spices and mix thoroughly with a wire whisk. Tastefor seasonings and adjust accordingly. Use immediately or refrigeratefor later use.From: Stephen Bloch Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 21:45:26 -0400 (EDT)Subject: Re: SC - Cameline Meat BrewetIan writes:> Unlike many sauces, this one is unboiled as per the description in Le> Viandier de Taillevent, p. 219: "Cameline sauce has cinnamon as its> predominant ingredient and is unboiled." Le Viandier also advises us> that not all sauces contained binding agents (p. 23-24). Bearing that in> mind, the bread crumbs have been left out of this version of the recipe.Perhaps in Viandier, but for the Catalan feast we served three monthsago we used a cooked, breadcrumb-thickened "salsa camelina" based on amixture of beef broth and pomegranate juice! It was deliciouslydifferent.mar-Joshua ibn-Eleazar ha-Shalib Stephen Bloch sbloch@panther.adelphi.edu http://www.adelphi.edu/~sbloch/ Math/CS Dept, Adelphi UniversityFrom: Stephen Bloch Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 19:43:13 -0400 (EDT)Subject: Re: SC - Cameline SauceLasairfhiona writes:> Could I possibly beg that recipe from you? I have a couple quarts of> pomegranate juice, and no idea what to make of it (aside from wine, but that> would be too easy...)The recipe is #109 in _Libre del Coch_. Here's our translation:109 Cameline SauceTake two or three pomegranates and strain them all through a piece ofclean linen. And when they are strained, press them well in suchmanner that the juice [hisca] well. And afterwards take a bit oftoasted bread and soak it in the aforementioned juice. And afterwardstake a good quantity of ground cinnamon and put it with the bread. Andafterwards grind it well in a morter. And when it is ground up, temperit up with good broth and the juice of the aforementioned pomegranatesand vinegar which isn't too strong . And after that it goes on thefire to boil, stirring all the time, until it is thick, but put in thepot before it boils a lump of fine sugar. And it's done.Our first redaction turned into Cameline Glue; the following has fewerbreadcrumbs, and works well in both flavor and texture.1/4 cup breadcrumbs (from toasted whole wheat bread)3/4 cup pomegranate juice1/4 cup beef broth2 T wine vinegar1 T cinnamon1 tsp white sugarAs I recall, we did this redaction, scaled up by a factor of ten orso, alongside the roast beef in the feast. We also served a "salsaallipebrada", or garlic-and-pepper sauce, which actually I think hadbeen redacted years earlier from a French recipe entitled "saucealiper".mar-Joshua ibn-Eleazar ha-Shalib Stephen Bloch sbloch@panther.adelphi.edu http://www.adelphi.edu/~sbloch/ Math/CS Dept, Adelphi UniversityFrom: Stephen Bloch Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 15:25:55 -0400 (EDT)Subject: SC - Re: sauces> My daughter had Roast Beef> with a pepper sauce at a Renn Fair and loved, but can't find the pepper> sauce recipie.Sauce Alepeuere (Ashmole Ms. 1429, Harl. 4016, etc.)"Take fayre broun brede, toste hit, and stepe it in vinegre, and draweit thurwe a straynour; and put ther-to garleke smal y-stampyd, poudrepiper, salt, & serue forth"I need to ask my wife's permission before posting her redaction, butshe's served this with roast beef, venison, etc. at several feasts torave reviews. We usually pronounce it "Sauce Aliper" or, for the stillless linguistically adventurous, "Garlic Pepper Sauce".mar-Joshua ibn-Eleazar ha-Shalib Stephen Bloch sbloch@panther.adelphi.edu http://www.adelphi.edu/~sbloch/ Math/CS Dept, Adelphi UniversityDate: Tue, 22 Jul 1997 23:29:06 -0400 (EDT)From: Uduido@aol.comSubject: SC - sauces-longish tempered with sauce cameline....but are there not more flavorful things than > cinnamon to put onto salmon? >>There are several approaches to the sauce "problem". The one I use is to makemy sauces vrey potent so to speak. In several attempts at doing period saucesI have found that the more concentrated they are the better they are. (e.g.the concentration of modern worchestershire or oyster sauce or catsup, etc.I think sometimes as SCA cooks we tend to mistakenly associate the word saucewith gravy and try to come up with something that can be "ladled" over thedish instead of , IMO, more correctly spooned over it.To support this theory, I would suggest you redact and try one of the fishrecipes from Apicius. When I did this I thought YUCK! but after actually makingthe dish, the sauce turned out to be excellent and the serving size wasapproximately 1 tblsp. per portion. My mouth waters just thinking about it. Keeping in mind that modern sauces such as catsup contain things we wouldn'tthink appropriate (e.g. cinnamon, cloves, vinegar, etc.) or the anchoviesand citrus fruits in Worchestershire, the long slow cooking necessary for agood sauce blends and reformulates the original raw flavors into a singleamalgamated whole. Try it you might like it. :-)Lord RasDate: Wed, 23 Jul 1997 03:30:44 -0500From: gfrose@cotton.vislab.olemiss.edu (Terry Nutter)Subject: Re: SC - Re: sca-cooks V1 #209Hi, Katerine here.Anna of Dragonsmark asks whether, given that medieval sauces were designed tobalance the humors of the meats, we should be devising new sauces better tosuit current materials.I believe not, for two reasons. First, I'm not at all certain that I grantthe premise. I know that Scully has a bee in his bonnet on this subject,but other scholars by no means universally agree. Certainly there are tractsfrom the middle ages that argue for this -- Magninus Mediolanensis is anexample -- but there's no evidence for it in the *culinary* literature, andit isn't clear that the medical literature isn't rationalizing practice asopposed to guiding it. Further, the repertoire of sauces is stable withrespect to names and general natures of sauces -- though not at all withrespect to their details -- over a period of two centuries; and the changesdo not reflect changes in the theory of the humors nearly so much as thosewe see throughout the cuisine as a whole.Second, I'd rather use the medieval main ingredient, or as close an analogas we can find, at which point rebalancing makes little sense. I think, ina sense, the quesion whether cinnamon is the most tasty spice to put on salmongives the show away: the desire is to have a different sauce for *flavor*, notfor any medieval reason. In that case, I'd be far more inclined to go with adifferent *medieval* sauce. There are many suggestions of sauces to go withfish; I would be far more inclined to find a medieval sauce I liked, and useit.So I don't think there's any rational argument that altering sauces for moreflavorful ingredients according to modern prejudices is a medieval practice.Sauces *did* evolve -- but not randomly. If one wanted to study in detail thepatterns by which specific spices augmented or replaced others, and thenreproduce those patterns, that would be a medieval practice. But I've beenengaged in a detailed study intended to reveal that kind of pattern forover five years, and I don't think I could begin to do it competantly. Ittakes a *great* deal of work; without doing that work, you're just making amodern sauce, and presenting it as medieval. I don't think that's appropriate.To be clearer: one can, of course, serve whatever tasty food one likes. If one wants to serve modern created dishes because one knows them, and does notknow medieval dishes one would rather serve, well and good. That, in itself,is perfectly reasonable, though it is not what I would prefer to see. ButI think we have a responsibility not to try to rationalize it, or "pretty"it over for SCA consumption, but claiming that it is in any way a reflection of medieval practice. It's a deliberate move away from medieval cuisine, based on a personal preference.I don't think there's any moral imperative to stick to the medieval repertoire(although I prefer to do so, and prefer meals where others have, provided thatthey've also done the cooking well). I *do* think there's a moral imperative to be honest about what we do. If we choose to be modern, we should be honestly and openly modern. Anything else is both miseducating and lying.Cheers,- -- Katerine/TerryDate: Mon, 4 Aug 1997 13:49:19 -0400 (EDT)From: Stephen Bloch Subject: Re: SC - sauces-longishNoemi writes:> Out of curiousity, and clarification, is a sauce something that is added to a> dish just prior to serving? I was thinking of things like, for lack of a> better and period example, things like a paprikas where it definitely has a> sauce, but it is what the dish was cooked in as well.At least for roast meats, a sauce was often added to a dish NOT priorto serving, but by the diners themselves. Sorta like ketchup in amodern restaurant. (Katerine, can you confirm this for me?)It can work very nicely to serve a single big hunk of meat with threeor four different sauces on the side: it allows the diners to try acouple of different flavors, and takes less work than preparing fourdifferent dishes.mar-Joshua ibn-Eleazar ha-Shalib Stephen Bloch sbloch@panther.adelphi.eduDate: Mon, 4 Aug 1997 13:55:11 -0400 (EDT)From: Stephen Bloch Subject: Re: SC - Re: Sauces and HumorsLionardo Acquistapace wrote:> ... I must say that a> Camaline Sauce can be fairly varied in flavor based on the type of> wine, verjuice, vinegar, etc. and the amounts of spices and such you> use.We were quite excited to find a cooked cameline sauce in one of themedieval Catalan cookbooks that's based on pomegranate juice. So Iwalked around the corner to the kosher grocery, picked up a quart bottleof pomegranate juice.... We served this with roast beef in a feast lastFebruary, quite successfully.mar-Joshua ibn-Eleazar ha-Shalib Stephen Bloch sbloch@panther.adelphi.eduDate: Tue, 26 Aug 1997 10:16:50 -0400 (EDT)From: Uduido@aol.comSubject: SC - Period Chutney Recipe>Guess what I've been doing for the last 24 hours? Period Chutney research.:-) This recipe is from 'The Forme of Cury' It is to all intent and purposesa 'chutney'. Other chutney-like recipes appear in Apicius and Le Manigier. Itis GREAT with cold cooked meat!COMPOSTFC 103Take rote of parsel, of pasternak, rafens, scrape hem and waische hem clene.Take rapes & caboches, ypared and icorue. Take an erthen panne with clenewater & set it on the fire; cast all (th)ise (th)erinne. When (th)ey buthboiled cast (th)erto peeres, & perboile hem wel. Take alle (th)ise thynges vp& lat it kele on a faire cloth. Do (th)erto salt; whan it is colde, do hit ina vessel; take vinegar & powdour & safroun & and do (th)erto, & lat alle(th)ise thynges lye (th)erin al ny(gh)t, o(th)er al day. Take wyne greke &honey, clarified togider; take lumbarde mustard & raisouns coraunce, alhoole, & gynde powdour of canel, powdour douce, anys hole, & fenell seed.Take alle (th)ise thynges & castt togyder in a pot of erthe, & take (th)erofwhan (th)oui wilt & serue forth.There is a redaction in 'Pleyn Delit which, IMHO, deviates away from theoriginal in very significant ways so I am not posting it. My translation andredaction follows:Take parsley root, parsnips, radishes, scrape them and wash them clean. Taketurnips and cabbages, pared and cored. Take an earthen pan with clean waterand set it on the fire; cast all this therein. When they both boiled casttherein pears, and parboil them well. Take all these things up and let itcool on a fair cloth. Do thereto salt; when it is cold, do it in a vessel;take vinegar and powder and saffron and do thereto, and let all these thingslie therein all night, other(wise) all day. Take Greek wine and honey,clarified together; take Lumbard mustard and raisins of Corinth (currants ?),all whole, and grind powder of cinnamon, powder douce, anys whole, & fennelseed. Take alle these things and cast together in a pot of earth, & takethereof when thou wilt and serve it forth.COMPOSTFC 130Copyright 1997 by L. J. Spencer, Jr. (a.k.a. Lord Ras al Zib)1/2 cp parsley root, peeled and diced 6 parsnips, peeled and diced 1 medium black radish, peeled and diced 1 lb turnips, peeled and diced1 gallon cabbage, cored and chopped2 quarts winter pears, peeled, cored and choppedSalt1 bottle Retsina (Greek wine)2 cps honey2 quarts cider vinegar.......................................Powder: 1 cp sugar1 Tblsp ground cloves 1 Tblsp ground cinnamon2 Tblsp ground ginger).......................................1 tsp saffron1/2 cp ground white mustard (the supermarket variety)1 lb dried currants1 tsp cinnamon......................................Powder douce:1 cp sugar1 tsp ground cloves 2 tsp ground cinnamon2 tsp ground ginger1 Tblsp ground cubebs (opt.)2 tsp groung galingal (opt.)1 Tbsp grains of Paradise (opt.).......................................1 tsp aniseed1 tsp fennel seedPlace parsley root, parsnips, radishes, turnips and cabbage in a non-reactivekettle (e.g. enamel, glass, or teflon. Cover with water. Bring to a boil.Addd pears. Reduce heat to medium and cook until pears are barely tender.Drain; spread on a cloth. Sprinkle with a substantial amount of salt andleave until cold. While mixture is cooling, bring wine and honey to a boil, removing the scumas needed. When the scum stops rising remove from heat.Put cooled cabbage mixture into a non-reactive kettle. Add vinegar, powderand saffron. Let sit in a cool place for 12 hours. Add remaining ingredients to the wine/honey mixture, stiiring well to makesure that the sugar is dissolved. Add wine/honey spice mixture tocabbage/pear mixture and blend carefully. Store in a cool place and use asneeded.Date: Tue, 26 Aug 1997 12:17:11 -0400From: Philip & Susan Troy Subject: Re: SC - Period Chutney RecipeUduido@aol.com wrote:> Guess what I've been doing for the last 24 hours? Period Chutney research.> :-) This recipe is from 'The Forme of Cury' It is to all intent and purposes> a 'chutney'. Other chutney-like recipes appear in Apicius and Le Manigier. It> is GREAT with cold cooked meat!> > COMPOST> FC 103I second the motion! Just a couple of comments on compost: there arerecipes for it in Le Menagier de Paris, as well as Das Buoch Von GuterSpise, which primarily gives the recipe for the spiced sauce, andsuggests different vegetables that can be preserved/served in it. Also,a variant can be found, I think, in the XIIIth century Northern Europeancookbook, one version of which is also known as The Icelandic MedicalMisellany. Best of all, I should point out that this stuff keeps for a long time,especially if you put it, while hot, into a sterile canning jar. Youcould do the whole thing with the pressure canner, I suppose, but I'venever found it necessary in this case. I have a couple of jars ofcompost that are around two years old, and the one I opened last weekwas just fine.AdamantiusDate: Thu, 28 Aug 1997 17:38:24 -0400 (EDT)From: Stephen Bloch Subject: Re: SC - Sauce Robert...Adamantius wrote:> I seem to recall a recipe for aioli in an earlier Spanish> source, but I'd have to look for the reference... .It appears in the 14th-c. Catalan _Libre de Sent Sovi_. I might bewrong, and it's in the 15th-c. Catalan _Libre del Coch_ instead, but I'mpretty sure it's in _Sent Sovi_.mar-Joshua ibn-Eleazar ha-Shalib Stephen Bloch sbloch@panther.adelphi.eduDate: Fri, 29 Aug 1997 09:41:40 -0400From: Philip & Susan Troy Subject: Re: SC - Sauce Robert...Anne-Marie Rousseau wrote:> Adamantius sez:>> >Well, yes, apart from my understanding that la Varenne uses pork fat for> >roux. It is at least recognizable, more or less. As for emulsified> > he only says to use lard. Unless the mammocks are particular to pigs?> Funny, I dont remember mammocks from my anatomy classes...Jes' one a' those things modern science doesn't address...my dictionarysez mammocks are fragments or shreds. Since lard is by definition porkfat (other animals give things like suet and tallow) I'd bet anythingmammocks are what we would call cracklings.> > la Varenne _The French Cook_ a 1654 English translation of the 1651 work> > THICKNING OF FLOWRE.> Melt some lard, take out the mammocks, put your flowre into your melted> latd, seeth it wel, but have a care it stick not to the pan...Interesting that this appears to call for unrendered fat, something thatwould probably have been on hand in the kitchen, anyway.But yes, this is clearly a recognizable roux, in spite of the fact thatusing fats other than oil or butter has pretty gone out, except inspecial cases like beef gravy, etc.AdamantiusDate: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 09:31:24 -0400From: Philip & Susan Troy Subject: Re: SC - drawn butter?Mark Harris wrote:> What is drawn butter?All right. In the "Everything Most People Never Wanted to KnowDepartment", I have my Official Drawn Butter Dissertation, whichactually may come in handy for some. (Hah!) ; )Okay. Things that are, in archaic versions of English, drawn, are mostlyeither eviscerated, which isn't an issue here, or made thick in someway, which is. Examples are the instructions to draw up a thick almondmilk, or to draw something through a streynour, which more often thannot means to force the item through a strainer to puree it and therebymake it smooth mixture, rather than lumps and water.Butter is an emulsion, a perfect mixture of an oil and water, whichunder normal circumstances don't want to mix. In this case, they doanyway. When you melt butter, it becomes a relatively thin liquid, andthe emulsion "breaks" apart into its two parts again, which is why youcan skim the clear butterfat off the top, and leave the rest behind, andit is this clarified butterfat that is what most modern people think ofas drawn butter (which, by the way, is NOT the same thing as the gheeused in Indian and Midle Eastern cookery, but don't get me started).In [late] period cookery parlance butter would have been "drawn" bymelting it VERY slowly and on a very gentle heat, like in a doubleboiler or some such, with another liquid, beating it as it melts. So youfind sauces made from things like the vinegar that a fish was marinatedin, with butter melted into it and whipped to form a relatively thick,creamy sauce, along the lines of modern beurre blanc or hollandaise.Yummers.Sauces like that are still made today on the Continent, especially inFrance, Spain, Portugal and Italy. In England, however, somebodyconceived the idea that drawn butter should be made by making a rouxthickener of cooked flour and butter, turn that into a sauce by addingwater or vinegar or a mixture, or ale, or SOMETHING, and simmering itfor a bit, and then adding more butter, this time beating it in in thetraditional way. I don't know if this was developed by someone who feltthat the starch of the roux would keep the sauce more stable (so itwouldn't break or de-emulsify on high heat), or if the issue wasexpense, with flour and water taking the place of some of the butter, orif they thought that simple butter beaten into a flavorful liquid wasjust too rich, or what. In any case, flour-thickened drawn butter saucesappear to have originated in England in the late eighteenth, earlynineteenth centuries. In spite of the fact that the sauce in the packetof Lipton Rice or Noodles In Sauce is more or less made this way, withdried butter solids and Wondra or some other pre-cooked flour stuff,it's still a perfectly viable sauce. I like mine on peas, with a tinypinch of sugar and some chopped mint. (And STILL Lady Aoife thinks Idon't give English cooking a fair break! ; ) ) Some people like it onLutefisk, which is how we got on this topic in the first place, IIRC.But, drawing butter up with a small amount of just water , or vinegar,or some other watery liquid is still alive and well (in dishes like REALfettucine Alfredo, f'rinstance), just as it would have been done inperiod. At least in late period, anyway.AdamantiusDate: Wed, 8 Oct 1997 17:32:39 -0400 (EDT)From: ANN1106@aol.comSubject: Re: SC - Substitute for bitter orangeI have never heard of the orange/lemon juice as a substitute for bitterorange. When I make a Bitter Orange Sauce to be used with desserts, I cutthe peel of half of the oranges that I will be using and add this to thejuice. The sauce is then heated (with cornstarch, sugar and juice of alemon). When ready, the peels are allowed to macerate for 30 minutes beforestraining and storing.Cointreau and Triple Sec are two alcoholic liqueurs that are made fromSeville (Bitter) Oranges.Audrey (aaparker@aol.com)Date: Sat, 18 Oct 1997 14:33:56 -0400From: marilyn traber Subject: Re: SC - aspic?> Ok, I've seen several mentions of this "aspic" in several messages> lately. For us new cooks, what is it?>> Stefan li RousDo you know the clearish gelatinous goo under the refrigerated chickenor turkey? That is aspic in its original and best example. You get itfrom cooking cartilage and bones to render out relatively pure protein.It is the forrunner of jello.margaliDate: Mon, 20 Oct 1997 17:05:24 -0400 (EDT)From: Mark Schuldenfrei Subject: Re: SC - Classes: Last Minute Tips RequestBut: check out the sauces that Lord Julian le Scot made for Known World A&Sthis year. He teaches a class on sauce making, and his redactions are verygood indeed. I especially like his mustard. The sauce vert was nummy,too.http://www.math.harvard.edu/~schuldy/kwas.menu.htmlTiborDate: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 10:44:13 -0400From: Philip & Susan Troy Subject: Re: SC - hollandaise sauceMark Harris wrote:> Ok, question time. This is Stefan, after all.>> What is Hollandaise sauce? I know it is some kind of fancy sauce but> what is in it? What makes it special? Is it period? Where is it from,> Holland?Sauce Hollandaise, as we now know it, is the modern descendant ofearlier forms of a sauce believed to have been brought to France by theHeugenots. So, its prototype appears to have actually been a Flemish orDutch sauce thickened with eggs, like a savory custard, and perhaps alittle butter beaten in to smooth the texture. I'm not up on the finerdetails of Heugenot history, but that would put the prototype sauce at,what, late sixteenth, early seventeenth century?Francois Pierre de La Varenne, in "Le Cuisinier Francois" (1651) givesa recipe for a similar sauce, calling for "good fresh butter, a littlevinegar, salt, nutmeg, and an egg yolk to bind the sauce; take care thatit does not curdle." We have no ingredient measurements or proportions,though, let alone any additional method or instructions, so it's hardto say how close to Hollandaise this is. There are a number of examplesof contemporary French and English sauces made by beating soft or meltedbutter into things like vinegar, and there seems to have been an equallyprevalent tradition in Germanic countries of thickening sauces with eggyolks.Modern Hollandaise sauce is usually made by warming egg yolks in a bowl,over a pan of hot water, and whipping them until light with vinegar,lemon juice, salt, white and/or cayenne pepper. You then beat in meltedor clarified butter, a tiny bit at a time, as you might with mayonnaise,until it is light yellow in color, thick, and the sharpness of the lemonand the vinegar is a bit more subdued. More daring cooks will often omitthe bain marie / double boiler aspect, and do it right in a saucepanover direct heat. Of course, then it is more likely to curdle andde-emulsify or break.Emulsified sauces in general appear to be rare in medieval cookery. Ibelieve there's one calling for hard-boiled egg yolks, mashed with theother ingredients, and olive oil beaten in (kind of an early mayonnaiseor tartar sauce), in one of the Spanish or Catalonian sources. Not surewhich offhand.I'd have to say my feeling is that Hollandaise sauce as we know it todayis OOP, but that there might be recognizable ancestors from withinperiod.AdamantiusDate: Tue, 02 Dec 1997 20:58:03 -0500From: margali Subject: Re: SC - hollandaise sauce> Ok, question time. This is Stefan, after all.>> What is Hollandaise sauce? I know it is some kind of fancy sauce but> what is in it? What makes it special? Is it period? Where is it from,> Holland?>> Stefan li Rouswell, you can buy something called hollandaise sauce in packettes, andsomething yellowish and drippy in jars they swear is hollandaisesauce...you take lots of butter, yolks of eggs beaten, either lemon squeezingsand zest OR an herbal vinegar, salt and pepper to taste-get the butter melted but not boiling hot, put the eggs in a sauce pan,and start whisking. pour the butter in while whisking until it thickens.when the sauce is pretty much done, add the salt and pepper, and the tspor so of liquid flavor. provided it hasnt curdled, you have hollandaisesauce. if you are in practice, it takes as long as the packette ofpowdered stuff.i use the egg whites in the scrambled eggs to fill the crepes, but youcan use it to make anything calling for just the whites.a good hollandaise should make the capillaries scream for help!margaliDate: Wed, 03 Dec 97 09:58:12 PSTFrom: "Alderton, Philippa" Subject: Re: SC - hollandaise sauceMy step-mother makes a very good mock Hollandaise sauce which is both tastyand easy.1/2 cup mayonaisse (Hellman's)2 teaspoons prepared mustard1 teaspoon lemon juiceMix and heat through, stirring. DON'T BOIL.It's nice for those occasions when you have forty-eleven other things todo, and don't really have the time to make a proper Hollandaise.The day she gave me the recipe, she was making a Holiday brunch for 15-20people, and she had a recipe for Eggs Benedict in which you poached theeggs the night before, kept them in a pan of water overnight, and heatedand served the next day. Folks, you have not lived until you learn to poacheggs by the pot of simmering water method, with 3 dozen eggs to have done!I got her an egg poacher for Christmas- we still laugh about it.PhlipDate: Mon, 8 Dec 1997 21:56:58 ESTFrom: LrdRas Subject: Re: SC - Re: Cracknels>Since so many recipes from period seem to me to resemble mincemeat and I haveno aversion to sweet meat, I often serve a wonderful relish made with apples,onions, green peppers, garlic, pepper and brown sugar to accompany roastpork.RasDate: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 20:10:04 ESTFrom: LrdRas Subject: Re: SC - french cooking or is Ham mousse just a fancy sausage?dkpirolo@cts.com writes: 3. Is mayonnaise period?The first example of an emulsion sauce I've seen is in la Varenne, 1651.Before that, sauces are all thickened with particulates or throughreduction. So I would say no, mayonaisse is not period.- --Anne-MarieDate: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 10:40:16 -0400From: Philip & Susan Troy Subject: SC - french cooking or is Ham mousse just a fancy sausage?> 3. Is mayonnaise period?I _think_ there's an emulsified (which is the key for the creaminess ofmayonnaise) sauce in Manuscrito Anonimo, which is a puree of garlic,and, I think, hard-boiled egg yolks, with olive oil beaten slowly in.That's probably about as close as you'll find until the eighteenthcentury or so. If you look at one of the Spanish cold garlic souprecipes, or a French rouille recipe, you'll find something like it,except the period equivalent would lack the red peppers and occasionalpotato found in rouille.AdamantiusDate: Sat, 14 Feb 1998 13:04:42 -0500 (EST)From: Stephen Bloch Subject: SC - hollandaise, aioli, almedrochAlso in the Stone Ages, Gideanus wrote:> Emulsified sauces in general appear to be rare in medieval cookery. I> believe there's one calling for hard-boiled egg yolks, mashed with the> other ingredients, and olive oil beaten in (kind of an early mayonnaise> or tartar sauce), in one of the Spanish or Catalonian sources. Not sure> which offhand.In the c.1400 AD Catalan _Libre de Sent Sovi_ are the following tworecipes (our translation; be warned that neither of us has formaltraining in medieval Catalan, or modern Catalan for that matter).Sorry I don't have the original Catalan on-line; it's on paper in apile somewhere in this house.141 AlmedrochIf you wish to do almedroch, take grated cheese and two or three clovesof garlic, and mince them [until they're stiff & can be shaped]. Andwhen they are minced, temper them with hot water, and when you[axetars]? them, don't use the pestle to immediately disintegrate them,but only mince them finely. And it should be of a good thickconsistency. And if perchance they are destroyed, take a large spoon,and heat it well on the fire; and when it is well heated, put it intothe almedroch, and stir it around, and it will return to its state.142 Almedroc with eggsIf you wish to make almedroc, you will have 2 or 3 cloves of garlic andcheese, as in the previous recipe for almedroch. And crush them verywell, and crush into them two or three eggyolks boiled in water. Andwhen it is well mixed, [exetats] it with good broth and butter. And ifyou don't have butter, add a little oil and good spices. And make it aconsistency that is thick, and don't cook it. And use it on pork, thatgoes on the spit. And it should not be tempered, which will destroyit, but left as flavored as it is. In the same way is made [esquesos]garlic, but make it with more garlic. And don't put in seasonings &spices, except to make it white and thick, and don't let it boil. Andit serves to give heat when used thus with almedroc.The first, from the directions for how to rescue it if it is"destroyed", is apparently an emulsified sauce of cheese and garlic,and the second is the same thing with boiled eggyolks (which, as Iunderstand it, help to stabilize the emulsion), as well as broth andbutter.Marimar Torres, in her book on modern Catalan cooking, _The CatalanCountry Kitchen_, gives a recipe for "allioli", which she translates as"garlic mayonnaise", made from minced garlic, a raw whole egg, oliveoil, lemon juice, salt and pepper. She comments that "Purists inCatalunya insist on making their allioli in a mortar and pestle, but Ialways use a food processor...." I've read elsewhere that "purists"don't include egg in their allioli, relying on compounds in the garlicalone to stabilize the emulsion.On the subject of "eggyolks boiled in water", I recall that the 13th-c.Arabo-Andalusian _manuscrito anonimo_ contains LOTS of recipes callingfor boiled eggyolks. In particular, one entitled "Cooking StuffedEggplants" (which I included in my T.I. article of c. 1994, "Some Recipesof al-Andalus"), that says "...boil eggyolks and also fry them a little..."One possible interpretation was to boil eggs, peel them, extract theyolks, and then fry them, but on a lark I tried separating raw eggs,dropping the yolks gently into near-boiling water (which I had handy,having just boiled eggplant in it), then fishing them out with a slottedspoon and frying them in oil (which I had handy, having just fried theeggplant in it). This works, and the yolks have a rather differenttexture from what they would have if boiled inside the rest of the egg. mar-Joshua ibn-Eleazar ha-Shalib Stephen Bloch sbloch@panther.adelphi.eduDate: Fri, 3 Apr 1998 23:11:21 -0800From: "Anne-Marie Rousseau" Subject: Re: SC - Garden time> On the same line, Horseradish recipes????? Please?There's a recipe for a horseradish sauce in the German corpus. Horseradishroot, vinegar, a bit of sugar and spice, if memory serves. Tasted just likethe non-cream style stuff out of the jar.- --AMDate: Mon, 1 Jun 1998 21:25:51 -0500From: "Decker, Terry D." Subject: RE: SC - Pine nutsFor a nice fish sauce (Greek, and probably period), heat a cup ofpomegranate juice, thicken it with bread crumbs, and stir in about threetablespoons of pine nuts.BearDate: Sun, 7 Jun 1998 10:12:07 -0500From: vjarmstrong@aristotle.net (Valoise Armstrong)Subject: Re: SC - Jellies vs. aspicsAllison wrote:> As for cooked, sweetened, mashed fruit, you get 'mus' in>the German corpus, which turns out like applesauce, etc., depending on>the fruit. It is used generally as a sauce.Actually mus refers more to dishes of a certain consistency than to fruitsauces. That's why you can find not only grape, fig, cherry, or apple mus,but also mus recipes for wine, fish, egg, crayfish, chicken, rice, etc.Some of them (even the fruit ones) are thickened with bread crumbs or eggs.Probably the closest thing to conserves or fruit paste would be latwerge,basically fruit thickened by cooking it down. I think Kuchenmeysterei (c.1490) might have a recipe, I don't know of any others.ValoiseDate: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 16:16:17 -0500From: "J. Scott & Arisa Ballentine" Subject: SC - RE: roux from a newbiePhilip & Susan Troy quoted:>> How long you brown> > the flour determines the final color of the gravy, short time for white> > gravy, browned well for up to 10 minutes for really dark gravy. It> > develops a stronger, nutty flavor the longer it cooks (this is what the> > Cajuns call a roux, BTW).Well, the French certainly use the term roux as well. There are 3 classicstages of roux:white: cooked just enough to get rid of the starchy taste - no color change - very strong thickening power.blonde: also called "popcorn" roux because there is only a slight change of color, but a distinct nutty flavor like fresh popcorn - strong thickening power.brown: dark, rich roux, usually takes up to thirty minutes to fully establish this roux - very little thickening power - very flavorful - most people stop here.The Cajuns have added an additional step:black: extremely dark roux, cooking time is usually at least one hour (note: this is usually taken from brown to black in a slow oven), extremely flavorful, this is the difference between good gumbo and gumbo - virtually no thickening power.Fergus Stout[editors note - roux are a post-1600 development, but I thought this message interesting and useful.]Date: Fri, 10 Jul 1998 02:47:36 EDTFrom: DianaFiona@aol.comSubject: Re: SC - Yikes! I'm teaching a class! A Garlic Sauce with Walnuts or AlmondsPlatina book 8To almonds or walnuts that have been coarsely ground add as much cleanedgarlic as you like and likewise, as need be, grind them up well, sprinklingthem all the while so they do not make oil. When they are ground up put inwhite breadcrumbs softened in juice of meat or fish, and grind again. And ifit seems too stiff it can be softened easily in the same juice. (See nextrecipe.)A More Colored Garlic SaucePlatina book 8Prepare this in the same way as above. But do not moisten it in water orjuice, but in must of dark grapes, squeezed by hand and cooked down for halfan hour. The same can be done with juice of cherries.1/8 c walnuts1/2 T garlic1/4 c bread crumbsabout 1 1/2 c grape juice, then boil it down.about 4-6 t vinegar1/4 c water For that matter, one of the pasta-and-cheese recipes would be a nice,easy, and familiar start. And, at least to me, the Benes yfryed recipe seemsdead easy. Cook beans until done (Limas make a reasonable substitute if favasare unavailable or too "weird" ;-) ), strain and saute' in oil with choppedonions and garlic. The dusting of powder douce to finish can be ommited ifprefered--I don't care for it much in this case, myself. Spinach tarts are also simple if you use frozen spinach and pie shells.Thaw the spinach, press the moisture out of it, saute' (That word again! Well,just tell 'em to fry it. Even the younger kids know what that means....... ;-)) in butter with spices to taste, put it in a pie shell and bake it. I seem toremember other recipes that have either cheese or eggs included also, but I'mnot sure from whence they might have come............ A number of the desserts are easy, too--and, if you can get the equipmenton hand, doing the "period funnelcakes" would be great fun! I swear one ofthese years I'm going to set up as a food merchant beside the tourney fieldand sell these--I have a feeling it would be *very*proffitable..................... ;-) Hope one or two of these ideas will appeal to your crowd--and good luckwith the class! Ldy Diana, who *should* be working on the class *she's* teaching Mon.instead of playing with cookbooks!Vulpine Reach, MeridiesDate: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 16:23:15 EDTFrom: Mordonna22@aol.comSubject: Re: SC - low calcium diet helpghesmiz@UDel.Edu writes:>An easy cream sauce can be made with powdered non-dairy creamer:Easy "Cream Sauce"2 cups stock, milk, or waterSalt and pepper to tastegarlic to taste4 heaping tbs creamer2 rounded tbs corn starch1/4 c waterHeat liquid to slow boil, add seasonings and creamer, mix corn starch withcold water and add to boiling liquid.stir vigorously with whisk until thickened and smooth.Mordonna DuBoisCook, Warrior Haven(who has lived and eaten on a meagre budget at times)Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 21:45:52 EDTFrom: RuddR@aol.comSubject: SC - Re: WalnutsSauce for stockysshe in an-other maner (Ashmole MS 1439, Two 15th Cent.Cookery Books, p109), has walnuts, garlic, pepper, bread and salt groundtogether and thinned with fish broth: thick garlic walnut milk. It goes greatwith more than fish, and very easy in a blender.Rudd RayfieldDate: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 13:11:54 EDTFrom: RuddR@aol.comSubject: SC - 16th c. German RouxDavid Friedman writes:Although it is not a true roux, since there is no grease or butter mentioned,there seems to be a "proto-roux" described in Ashmole MS 1439 (Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books, p. 110):"Sauce gauncileTake floure and cowe mylke, safroune wel y-grounde, garleke, and put in-to afaire litel pot; and se(th)e it ouer (th)e fire, and serue it forthe."A flour and milk base does seem to be unusual for a medieval sauce; this isthe only one I recall seeing.Rudd RayfieldDate: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 20:05:09 -0800From: Anne-Marie Rousseau Subject: RE: SC - > Feeding Gunthar and ThyraHi all from Anne-MarieFor her Highness, there is are several outstanding creamy yet slightly tartsauces in ther period and Elizabethan repetoire. Sauce Robert comes to mind(butter, mustard, vinegar, capers and chives), as does la Varennes "whitesauce" (an egg yolk emulsion sauce with vinegar. Sound familiar?)Then Ber sez...> I also love beef Wellington and anything Anne-Marie cooks!aw shucks :)... well, here's some recipes. The text is from my pbulications"French Food in the Renaissance". All rights reserved, no publication withpermission, blah blah blah.SAUCE ROBERT This rich, creamy, slightly tangy sauce appears in many of the Frenchsources. There is some variation, for example le Cuisinier franois updates hiswith capers, but all use verjuice and mustard and butter. What it's served onseems to vary as well, with le Menagier a Paris putting it on poached sole(M30), le Viandier de Taillevent on poached or baked John Dory (a North Atlanticflat fish) (T115, T207), and le Cuisinier fran=E7ois on Poor John (another fish,maybe a regional name for a John Dory?) (V80), goose (V33, p41), pork loin(V56, p48), or wild boar (V39, p67). We've enjoyed this sauce on fish, pork,and even veggies, though there's no documentation for the latter. Heck, it'seven good with bits of bread...Poor John with a Sauce Robert. (V80)You may put it with butter, a drop of verjuice, and some mustard, you may alsomixe with it some capers and chibols.Barbe Robert [Sauce] (T207)Take small onions fried in lard (or butter according to the day), verjuice,vinegar, mustard, small spices and salt. Boil everything together. (A 1583cookbook quoted by Pichon et al., p109)(M30) "POLE" and SOLE are the same thing; and the "pole" are speckled on theback. They should be scalded and gutted like plaice, washed and put in the pan,with salt on them and water, then put on to cook, and when nearly done, addparsley; then cook again in the same liquid, then eat with green sauce or withbutter with some of the hot cooking liquid, or in a sauce of old verjuice,mustard and butter heated together.Our version:1 tsp. rinsed and minced capers2 tsp. minced green onion, just the white part2 tsp. fine ground prepared mustard1/2 stick butter1 tsp. cider vinegar or verjuice, if you have itMix all over heat till well blended. If it separates, whip with whisk tillreblended. Makes about 1/2 cup.Serve on poached fish or roast pork or goose.LA VARENNE'S WHITE SAUCE The primary sources considered for this work show an interestingdevelopment in the use of thickening agents. The middle ages saw the use ofbread crumbs and almonds, as well as the technique of reduction, or thickeningby protracted boiling. There was an occasional use of eggs, both hard boiled(which thickened by particulates) and raw (thickening as the proteins in theraw egg coagulated). The work Epulario seems to rely heavily on raw eggs ratherthan the particulate thickener of the earlier works. Le Cuisinier franois hasan entire chapter discussing a number of preparations that one could use tothicken sauces and dishes. It suggests making these ahead of time and keepingthem "against future need=92, stating that these are "useful for all, or insteadof eggs". Several of these preparations are familiar, as they include theubiquitous almond (thickening using particulates), along with the old standbyof bread crumbs and egg yolks. but, Lo! le Cuisinier fran=E7ois specifies onemethod ("A Thickning of flowre", Vp120) whereby flour is cooked with fat, andonion, broth, mushrooms and vinegar are added and the preparation strainedbefore use. It's a roux! The basic ingredient of most modern French sauces isthis cooked emulsion of flour and fat. Another example of the burgeoning art of French sauce making is laVarennes white sauce. It's a real emulsion sauce; like hollandaise, bernaiseand mayonnaise. Recipes in le Cuisinier franois call for this sauce on leeks(V38, p157), cauliflower (V16, p84), asparagus (V77, p113), artichoke bottoms(V62, p108), as well as chicken pie (V4, p126), veal breast (V11, p126) andlamb pie (V23, p113; V26, p134). It has a delicate yellow color and is acreamy, slightly tart accompaniment to anything you fancy. I found myself incapable of producing this sauce on the stovetop withoutit curdling. With vigorous whisking, it was still presentable, but only ifeaten immediately, and would tend to curdle out again. The blender version ofthis sauce, while not authentic in preparation method tastes the same and isideal for any situation where the sauce may not be served immediately, or thetemperature of your stove may not be gentle and steady enough (like, say, mostof the time?). This sauce can cool off and it won't curdle or go ropy. If itstarts to separate at all (we only noticed it after over an half hour), whiz itfor a second or so more in the blender.Sparagas with White Sauce (V77 p113)Choose the biggest, scrape the foot of them, and wash them, and seeth them inwater, salt them well, and let them not seeth too much; after they are sod,draine them and make a sauce with very fresh butter, a little vinegar, salt,nutmegg, and the yolk of an egg to thicken the sauce, and have a care that itdoe not curd or (turne) and serve them garnisht with what you will.Our version:In a small pan, melt 1/4 lb. butter till it's all bubbly hot.To the blender, put 3 egg yolks2 T. vinegar (cider or balsamic or white wine)1/4 t. salt1/4 t. nutmegCover, flick on and off at high speed. Remove cover, turn on high and graduallyadd the hot butter. Blend on high for 4 seconds or so. Serve on anything thatdoesn't move.Makes about 1/2 c. sauce.Optional modern variation:1 shallot minced2 T white wine vinegar1 T water1/4 t. fresh ground pepperboil till dry in a small pan (i.e. the shallots have soaked up all the liquid),and add the butter and melt as described above. Continue with rest ofinstructions.- --Anne-MarieDate: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 23:00:35 +1100From: "Phillippa Venn-Brown" Subject: Re: SC - Isles Anniv Feast April 25, menu vers 1.1> Sorrel Sauce (Take a 1000 eggs or more) - will have to taste test this one,> see if it goes with anything served above.This Sorrel sauce goes brilliantly with Roast Pork or suckling Pig which Imade it to accompany for Charles of the Park's "Fine Food Feast" posted tothe list last Sept/Oct.I have it on authority from my friends who can eat seafood that it alsogoes well with light flavoured fish.Filippa Ginevra.Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 14:19:39 ESTFrom: Balano1@aol.comSubject: Re: SC - Fruit sauce/Rdegrd med FldeHopefully, someone else can help document this but it is and has been astandard throughout Scandanaivia and Western Europe for time unknown. I'mtold it's one of those that everyone's grandma can make and no one really hasa recipe for but I can attest to its pervasive appearance throughout Swedenand Germany...this is a modern adaptation -Rdegrd med Flde2 ten ounce packages frozen mixed berries, strawberries and rasberries2 Tblsp sugar2 Tblsp arrowroot powder1/4 cup cold waterslivered almonds1/2 cup light creamBlend berries until pureed or rub through a fine sieve. Place puree in a 1-1 1/2 quart saucepan and stir in sugar. Bring to a boil stirring constantly.Mix 2 Tbsp arrowroot powder and 2 Tblsp cold water to make a smooth paste.Stir into sauce, let mixture thicken and remove from heat and cool. Chillfor at least 2 hours and serve with slivered almonds on top and cream on theside.- - Sister Mary EndolineDate: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 09:36:46 SAST-2From: "Ian van Tets" Subject: SC - Sumac revisited (Italian sauce)Back in the not too distant past there was a brief flurry ofdiscussion on a middle eastern flavouring known as Sumac. I recentlytripped across a description of a European sauce using Sumac andthought that one or two of you might be interested.Francesco Datini, a merchant from Prato near Venice in thelate 14th century, was rather fond of his food. He travelledregularly and his correspondence (much of which has survived)often covers important topics like "what I would like for dinner whenI come home". Among his favourite sauces was savore sanguino,which was made by "pounding raisons, cinnamon, sandal and sumactogether and mixing them with wine and meat".My source for this sauce is Iris Origo's "Merchant of Prato",(the revised edition published in English by Penguin in 1963). Origocites the following as her source: Biblioteca Marucelliana, Florence, Manoscritti, C. 226 (amiscellaneous codex of the 15th century), p. 128Jan van SeistDate: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 18:58:01 -0500From: renfrow@skylands.net (Cindy Renfrow)Subject: Re: SC - Blue Sauce - Maybe chestnuts?Hello! I don't recall if anyone mentioned it, but there is a recipe inEpulario (p. 32) for 'skie color sauce in summer' which calls formulberries: "Take wild mulberies which grow in the Hedges, and a fewstamped Almonds with a little Ginger, temper all this with Veriuice andstraine it."CindyDate: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 00:12:23 -0500From: Philip & Susan Troy Subject: Re: SC - Sauces for Roast PorkBronwynmgn@aol.com wrote:> I am the head cook for our shire's event in May. The main dish for the feast> will be spit-roasted pork (ie we are having someone come in to do a pig> roast). I would like suggestions for 2-3 sauces that could be spooned onto> the meat after the diner gets it on his plate. The remainder of the feast is> primarily 14th century English and French, and I would prefer recipes that fit> into those parameters.Taillevent recommends roast pork be eaten with verjuice, and says somepeople put garlic, onions, wine, and verjuice in the pan with thedrippings from the meat and make a sauce with that. Kind of like sauceRobert without the mustard.He says of stuffed roast suckling pig that while some lazy persons eatit with Cameline Sauce, it should be served with a hot Yellow PepperSauce. Of that, Poivre Jaunet, he says to grind ginger, long pepper,saffron -- and some people add in cloves with a little verjuice -- andtoast; infuse this in vinegar (or verjuice) and boil it when you areabout to serve your meat.Something Taillevent doesn't recommend for roast pork, but which happensto be excellent with it, is Garlic Jance, made from ginger, garlic andalmonds, ground, infused in verjuice and boiled until thickened. He sayssome people put white wine in it too. It's a little like a modern Greek Skordalia...AdamantiusDate: Sun, 26 Sep 1999 14:13:38 +0100From: Thomas Gloning Subject: SC - Opusculum de saporibus (was: Welcome ...) / sauce for lamprey>As you all know, Arnald of Villanova died 1307 or 1309 in a shipwreck.Magninus died about 1364. The first texts of Magninus mentioned byTHorndike are from the 1320ies, when Arnald was long dead.If I understand correctly the incipit of the Regimen sanitatis, quotedby THorndike, it was the other way round:"Incipit liber de regimine sanitatis Arnaldi de villa nova quem Magninusmediolanensis sibi appropriavit addendo et immutando nonnulla" (p. 184note 8, continued from p. 183).Roughly: Here begins the book about the healthy way of life by Arnald ofVillanova, that Magninus of Milano 'made his own', whereby he added andchanged quite a bit.On the other hand, Terence Scully in his "The _opusculum de saporibus ofMagninus Mediolanensis_" (Medium Aevum 54, 1985, 178-207) holds, thatthe Regimen is the work of Magninus. In this case, the Regimen couldhave been incorporated into the collected works of Arnald by the_editors_ of Arnalds collected works.Here is a sample recipe from the opusculum for the translators on thislist:"Pro lampridis magnis assatis et murenis recipe zinziberi albigariofilorum gallange granorum paradisi ana 3. m. panis assi infusi inaceto medium. Distemperetur cum pinguedine piscis et agresta et bulliat.Vel potest fieri gellatina superius scripta. Et sicut dictum est delampreda similiter intelligatur de murena." (p. 188)The latin text of the _opusculum de saporibus_ is at:http://www.uni-giessen.de/~g909/sapor.htmor viahttp://www.uni-giessen.de/~g909 (choose "Alte Kochbuecher")ThomasDate: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 05:42:14 +1000From: "Craig Jones & Melissa Hicks" Subject: SC - Sauce recipe for Lamb ShanksArtemis,> Yet another quick question. I'm currently looking for a good> (and preferably simple) sauce recipe to go over some roasted> lamb shanks I'm serving at a feast. Something from around> 1200-1350 would be ideal, but with a month to go I'm open to> all suggestions.A new variation that Drake & I have been using is as follows from Redon'sMedieval Kitchen. The recipe is for Chicken but the sauce is really yummywith lamb!!!Roast Chicken. To prepare roast chicken, you must roast it; and when it iscooked, take orange juice or verjuice with rosewater, sugar and cinnamon andplace the chicken on a platter; and pour this mixture over it and send it totable. (Maestro Martino, Libro de Atre Coquinaria, no 127)Redon's redaction of the sauce is:juice of 3 bitter oranges (sevilles) OR 10 tablespoons verjuice plus 1tablespoon rose water1/2 tea sugar1 pinch ground cinnamonsalt to tasteDrake's Variation: Instead of pouring this over the meat, we heat itseparately and thicken with cornflour. Presto - Gravy for Coeliac (allergicto gluten) people.Meliora - from Polit.Date: Thu, 07 Oct 1999 21:31:39 -0400From: Philip & Susan Troy Subject: Re: SC - Sauce recipe for lamb shanks"Artemis of St. Malachy" wrote:> Thank you all for the recipe suggestions. If someone would like to post the> recipe for the cameline sauce that would be great.This is a nice version; it's the only one that seems to contain fruit;the others are all, to some extent, like prepared mustard made withcinnamon instead of mustard seed. For this reason, in spite of the factthat this source (The Forme of Cury, ~1390 C.E.) is somewhat later thanthe dates you specified, I thought this would be the best for your needs."149. Sawse camelyne. Take raysons of coraunce & kyrnels of notys &crustes of brede & powdour of gynger, clowes, flour of canel; bray itwel togyder and do (th)erto salt. Temper it vp with vyneger, and serueit forth."Or, in other words,Sauce cameline: Take dried currants and shelled nuts [probably walnuts,maybe hazelnuts], crusts of bread, powdered ginger, powdered cloves, andground cinnamon, and pulverize it all together [in a mortar] and addsalt. Mix it til smooth with vinegar and serve.I don't have a worked-out recipe with quantities and such, but I figureapproximately equal quantities of currants and nutmeats would be aboutright, with about half as much of the heel of, say, a whole wheat loaf,as of either the nuts or the currants. Cinnamon should definitelypredominate among the spices, with just touches of ginger and clove, anda mild vinegar like malt, sherry or white wine vinegar to your own tasteand preferred consistency. Salt to taste. I wouldn't serve thisimmediately, in spite of the recipe. I'd give it an hour or two at leastto sit before serving, and mix it well at the last minute before dishingit up.AdamantiusDate: Fri, 08 Oct 1999 00:16:06 EDTFrom: Korrin S DaArdain Subject: Re: SC - Sauce recipe for lamb shanks"Artemis of St. Malachy" writes:>Thank you all for the recipe suggestions. If someone would like to>post the recipe for the cameline sauce that would be great.EnjoyKorrin S. DaArdainKingdom of An Tir in the Society for Creative Anachronism.Korrin.DaArdain@Juno.com~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Cameline Sauce (French, 14th c.) Goodman p. 286/25 From Cariadoc's Miscellany, Copyright by David Friedman, 1988,1990, 1992. Note that at Tourney to make cameline they bray ginger, cinnamonand saffron and half a nutmeg moistened with wine, then take it out ofthe mortar; then have white bread crumbs, not toasted but moistened incold water and brayed in the mortar, moisten them with wine and strainthem, then boil all together and put in brown sugar last of all; and thatis winter cameline. And in summer they do the same but it is not boiled. Sweet spicy Sweet & spicy ginger 1 t 1 t 1 t cinnamon 1 t 1 t 1 t saffron medium pinch for all 3 nutmeg 1 whole 1/2 whl 1/2 whle wine 2 T 1/2 c 1/2 c bread crumbs 3 T 2 T 2 T brown sugar 2 T 1 t 1 T cold water 2 c 1 c 1 c Grind smoothly until well ground, add bread crumbs, grind smooth,add water and wine, bring it to a boil, simmer until thickened and addthe brown sugar.~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Cameline Meat Brewet & Sauce From The Goodman of Paris. Posted by Master Huen / James L.Matterer (jmattere@weir.net) This cold meat dish comes from a reference in The Goodman ofParis, which lists a Parisian feast of 1393 where there was served "acameline meat brewet - pieces of meat in a thin cinnamon sauce." Althoughit is not known exactly how this particular dish was prepared, thisrecipe is an approximation of how such a meat brewet may have beencreated. Curye on Inglish describes two cold brewets, one without meat(p. 128) and one with (p. 129). 2 lbs. beef, sliced into thin strips 1 tsp. butter 1 tsp. salt 1/8 tsp. pepper Meat butter in pan, add meat and seasonings and saute until done.Drain well and let cool. Place meat in a sealable container and addCameline Sauce to cover. Refrigerate for several days, agitatingcontainer once a day. Remone from marinade and serve cold or at roomtemperature. Serves 4 - 8. ------------------------------ Cameline Sauce "Pound ginger, plenty of cinnamon, cardamon, mace, long pepper ifyou wish, then squeeze out bread soaked in vinegar and strain it alltogether and salt it just right." - Le Viandier de Taillevent, from Foodin History, p. 219. Unlike many sauces, this one is unboiled as per the descriptionin Le Viandier de Taillevent, p. 219: "Cameline sauce has cinnamon as itspredominant ingredient and is unboiled." Le Viandier also advises us thatnot all sauces contained binding agents (p. 23-24). Bearing that in mind,the bread crumbs have been left out of this version of the recipe. 1 c. each cider vinegar and water 1/2 tsp. cinnamon 1/4 tsp. each of ginger, cloves, mace, cardamon, pepper, and salt Combine liquids, add spices and mix thoroughly with a wire whisk.Taste for seasonings and adjust accordingly. Use immediately orrefrigerate for later use.~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 17:54:33 EDTFrom: ChannonM@aol.comSubject: Re: SC - Sauce recipe for lamb shanksI thought I'd peek my head in and offer a recipe from Le Menagier.Cameline SauceIn addition to mustard, cameline sauce is a common recipe found in LeViander de Taillevent(1380), Le Menagier de Paris(1393), The Forme ofCury, A Roll of Ancient English Cookery (1390). This condiment is used toaccompany cooked meats and poultry and has a poignant taste reminiscent ofmodern day steak sauce. The following is an exerp from Le Menagier deTaillevent;Note that at Tournay to make cameline they bray ginger, cinnamon and saffronand half a nutmeg moistened with wine, then take it out of the mortar, thenhave white breadcrumbs, not toasted but moistened them with wine strain them,then boil all together and put brown sugar last of all and that is wintercameline. And in summer they do the same, but it is not boiled.And in truth, to my taste, the winter sort is good but in (summer) that whichfolloweth is far better, bray a little ginger and a great deal of cinnamon,then take it out and have toasted bread moistened, or plenty of breadraspings in vinegar, brayed and strained.I have taken some liberty in combining two aspects of the above recipe.Firstly, I have used the boiling method and use of wine of the first recipe,and secondly I utilized the spice content of the latter recipe. I have alsocanned the end product using modern methods, with excellent results.In practice1tsp ground ginger 2 tbsp verjuice or lemon juice3tsp ground cinnamon 1 tbsp cider vinegar1/3 cup white wine 1/4 cup white bread crumbs3 tbsp brown sugar(packed)Mix all ingredients. Strain the mixture through a fine seive, pressing downwith a spoon to extract as much of the liquid as possible. Boil the liquidabout 5 minutes. You can now can the sauce or use it immediatelyHauvietteDate: Sat, 9 Oct 1999 14:56:52 EDTFrom: Elysant@aol.comSubject: SC - Cameline SauceSeveral people have asked that I put the recipe for the Cameline Sauce that Imade at Pennsic on the list. So here it is. :-) Sorry to be a "spoon tease";-).The recipe was from Le Viandier de Taillevant, translation by Elizabeth Bennett.It is to be found in Cariadoc's second volume of Medieval and RennaissanceCookbooks (Seventh Edition).When I actually made the sauce, I was working straight from the text itself,and did not have time to write anything down, so the amounts quoted in therecipe below are as I remember them. Also, please know that I was making anamount of sauce for a small side dish, which perhaps would have beensufficient for about 4 people in my estimation.Elysant"UNBOILED SAUCES AND HOW ONE MAKES THEM.TO MAKE CAMELINE SAUCE. Take ginger, cinnamon, and a lot of cloves, grainsof paradise, mastic, long pepper if you like; then soak bread in vinegar, andtake it out, and salt to taste."Recipe1/4 teaspoon ginger1/4 teaspoon cinnamon3/4 teaspoon cloves (whole)1/2 teaspoon grains of paradise1/4 teaspoon mastic2 medium long peppers1/4 cup fine breadcrumbs1 cup red wine vinegarsalt to tasteGrind all spices with a mortar and pestle. Empty the spices into a bowl, andadd the breadcrumbs and vinegar. Stir. Let the sauce mixture sit for about5 minutes, then pour it through a sieve into a second bowl, working thebread/spice mixture as much as possible through the sieve with the back of aspoon in a firm stroking motion (be sure to add the sieved mixture from theunderside of the sieve to the sauce in the bowl). To finish the recipe,taste the sauce, and add salt as needed.Notes: - The fine breadcrumbs were prepared from a dried white bread loaf. - The finished sauce was added to Ras's recipe for diced Lamb's Testicles just before the dish was served.Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 21:10:01 EDTFrom: Elysant@aol.comSubject: Re: SC - white salsLrdRas@aol.com writes:> margali@99main.com writes:> Cookbooks, Vol. II, The Book of the Beloved; 'White Sals'.Hello Margali,Here's the recipe for White Sals for you. Credit for redacting this recipeactually goes not only to Lord Ras, but also to myself, and to Puck. :-)Elysant-----Original (translation)-White sals. Walnut meats, garlic, pepper, cinnamon, white mustard, Tahini andlemon juice.Redaction-White sals(copyright c 1999 Ras, Elysant, Puck)1 cp. Walnuts2 cloves Garlic1/8 tsp. Black pepper, ground1/2 tsp. True cinnamon, ground3/4 tsp. prepared mustard (see notes below)2 Tblsp TahiniLemon juice, as neededIn a food processor combine walnuts and garlic until they form a smoothpaste. Put walnut mixture in a bowl. Add pepper. cinnamon, mustard andTahini. Mix thoroughly adding lemon juice by the teaspoonful until a smoothvery thick mixture is achieved.NOTE: There is a description of mustard as prepared in the medieval middleeast in another section of Caraidoc's Collection. We used a modern mustardthat most fit this description. Any country-style mustard would work.Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 00:50:03 +0100From: Thomas Gloning Subject: SC - Cameline sauce from the 'Vivendier'Here is another recipe for cameline sauce from Terence Scully's editionof the 'Vivendier', a 15th century French cookery text, edited from amanuscript now in the Gesamthochschul-Bibliothek Kassel (publ. withProspect books, 1997; not the same as the 'Viandier'!)."Pour faire une saulse cameline: prenez pain blancq harl sur le greil,sy le mettez temprer en vin rouge et vin aigre, pass parmy l'estamine,canelle assez, et gingembre, clou, graine, macis, poivre long et saffrenun poy et sel; faictez boullir ou non boullir comme vouldrez; aucun ymettent du chucquere." (Scully, Vivendier, 1997, p. 35).'To make a Cameline Sauce. Get white bread toasted on the grill, set itto temper in red wine and vinegar, and strain it, along with a good dealof cinnamon, and ginger, cloves, grains of paradise, mace, long pepperand a little saffron. Finish it off either boiled or not as you like.Some people put sugar in it." (Translation T. Scully p. 35; follow somecomments).If you need a 'redaction', look at Flandrin & Lambert, Ftes gourmandesau Moyen ge, p. 94.ThomasDate: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 21:11:56 -0400From: Philip & Susan Troy Subject: Re: SC - Cameline sauce from the 'Vivendier'Thomas Gloning wrote:> "Pour faire une saulse cameline: prenez pain blancq harl sur le greil,> sy le mettez temprer en vin rouge et vin aigre, pass parmy l'estamine,> canelle assez, et gingembre, clou, graine, macis, poivre long et saffren> un poy et sel; faictez boullir ou non boullir comme vouldrez; aucun y> mettent du chucquere." (Scully, Vivendier, 1997, p. 35).>> 'To make a Cameline Sauce. Get white bread toasted on the grill, set it> to temper in red wine and vinegar, and strain it, along with a good deal> of cinnamon, and ginger, cloves, grains of paradise, mace, long pepper> and a little saffron. Finish it off either boiled or not as you like.> Some people put sugar in it." (Translation T. Scully p. 35; follow some> comments).This recipe is actually fairly similar to the one in the earlierViandier, as previously posted. It's worth noting, however, that Scully,in _his_ translation of le Viandier, notes the reference to mastic inone of the manuscripts, and the several references to mace in the samerecipe in other manuscripts, and concludes, rightly or wrongly, that ascribe misspelled or misread "macis" as "mastic". I'm not prepared tosay, "This is definitely how it is," but it seems fairly plausible thatmace is intended, rather than mastic. Maybe the scribe was just reallya man, or lady, of taste, and decided that mastic would be better.AdamantiusDate: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 16:40:50 -0500From: "Michael F. Gunter" Subject: SC - Cameline Sauce from the VivendierAdamantius wrote:>Thanks for pointing to this recipe. I missed that. The recipe, given inthe earlier post, seems to be a translation of #155 in the VAT- or theBN-Version (the manuscripts now in the Biblioth $BoR (Jue Nationale andthe Vatican): 'Cameline Sauce. Pound ginger, plenty of cinnamon, cardamon,mace [=BN], long pepper if you wish, then squeeze out bread soaked invinegar and strain it [=VAT] all together and salt it just right. (LeViandier de Taillevent, from Food in History, p. 219).' Adamantius notes:> > Maybe the scribe was just really> > a man, or lady, of taste, and decided that mastic would be better.>> Does this mean that you have tried the recipe both ways, with mastic,> and with mace instead of mastic, and decided that you prefer the> version with mastic?No, I haven't tried it with mastic. I've tried it with mace, though,I've eaten mastic in other foods, and suspect I'd prefer the versionwith mace. I was joking, somewhat, and acknowledging that the sauce madewith mastic might be perfectly good. We have seen good evidence that it was.AdamantiusDate: Sun, 17 Oct 1999 09:40:15 EDTFrom: WOLFMOMSCA@aol.comSubject: Re: SC - Preserves & Sauces - recipes wantedThis one freezes well, and besides being a great sauce for roasted meats,also makes a great condiment for burgers on the barby.From The English Hous-wife, Gervase Markham, 1615Sauce for a Roast CaponTo make an excellent sause for a rost Capon, you shall take Onions, andhaving sliced and peeled them, boyle them in fair water with Pepper, Salt,and a few bread crummes: then put unto it a spoonfull or two of claret Wine,the juyce of an Orenge, and three or four slices of Lemmon peel: all theseshred together, and so pour it upon the Capon being broke up.2 cups minced onion (save yourself the last step of "shredding")1/4 tsp. minced lemon peel2 Tbsp. dry red or white wine (Your choice, I've used both with equal success)1 1/2 cups OJ (fresh-squeezed is best, but country-style with the pulp worksfine)2 Tbsp bread crumbsSaltPepper (both to taste)Put the onions in a saucepan with enough water to cover, add salt & pepper asyou like it. Bring to a boil, then simmer for about 10-15 minutes. Add therest of the ingredients, bring back to a boil, and simmer until it thickensup a bit. Serve it forth, as the saying goes.This was served at an Elizabethan feast I did this past February. I hadleftovers, so I chucked it in a zip-loc baggie and put it in the freezer. Ithawed it out in August for a roast beef dinner, and it was just fine. Beaware that freezing this will cause the onions to somehow become moreonion-y. I don't know why (that's the science of cookery). But it workedquite well. It also worked well as an ingredient in everyday meatloaf. Cameout quite yummy.WolfmotherEdited by Mark S. Harris sauces-msg