rising - san francisco baking institutesfbi.com/pdfs/newss02.pdf · sourdough is not consumed by...

WHAT’SR I S I N G

Salt: A Simple Ingredientwith a Lot of Responsibility

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As the newly announced recipient of theGolden Baguette award from the BreadBaker’s Guild of America, I thought thiswould be a good time and opportunity totalk about the state of education in the USfor bakers and pastry chefs. First, I want toextend my thanks to those who chose meto receive the award, but more importantlyI want to thank those who allowed myvision of what baking education could be,to become a reality.

There have been many instructors, fromaround the world. Some have spent oneweek at the school,others months and years.I am thankful for all of them for their timespent teaching here. I also must thank allthose who have worked behind the scenes atthe school, completing large and small tasksthat are vital to a smooth operation. A thankyou is also due to all the students who haveattended or plan on attending classes atSFBI. Without their support the schoolwould not be able to survive.

It is this continued support that I am con-cerned about. SFBI is embarking on a newproject in the coming year.

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This amount was sometimes differentdepending on the region of France andcould reach .8% to 1% in some areas.

As time progressed, the level of salt in thedough increased. Some formulas from the1950’s mention a level of salt of 1.6%.

Drastic change occurred in the sixties withthe application of the intensive mix methodsand the “no time” dough process.

Michel Suas SFBI Founder

Didier Rosada and Jeff YankellowSFBI Instructors

what’s rising this season...● New Long Program Curriculum

● Salt: History and Taste Test

● Volker Baumann on Rye in Sourdough

● Baker’s Tip and Recipe

● Fall 2002 Class Calendars

T H E S A N F R A N C I S C O B A K I N G I N S T I T U T E S U M M E R 2 0 0 2

Salt plays an important role in the flavorof bread—an obviously important factorfor the consumer. However, this deceptivelysimple ingredient actually does much morethan contribute to bread’s flavor during theentire baking process. As soon as salt isintroduced to the dough, it begins to createchange. Salt reinforces the gluten structure,regulates fermentation and greatly enhancesthe flavor of the bread. To fully understandthe technical role of salt, it is helpful tolearn more about its history in the bakingprocess.

History of Salt

In modern times, salt is one of the fourbasic ingredients used to produce even themost simple of breads, but for many yearsits use in bread dough was very limited —if not totally absent.

Throughout history, salt was not used indough mainly for financial and economicalreasons. Subject to high taxes, salt was simplytoo expensive for European bakers. Buteven when it became more affordable, theuse of salt was still moderate because of itstendency to hide the natural flavor of thebread. On the other hand, if there was apoor wheat crop or the wheat had beenstored poorly, salt was used as a natural con-ditioner, and the amount of salt in thedough was even higher.

During the 1780’s, some ancient Frenchbaking books reported that the quantity ofsalt used in the dough was from .45% to.6% of the total flour weight.

The San Francisco Baking Institute390 Swift Avenue, #13

South San Francisco, CA 94080phone 650.589.5784 fax 650.589.5729

www.sfbi.com

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where better baking begins

The Future ofBaking Education

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The end of summer has arrived and there is an abundanceof ripe tomatoes available. Use this seasonal ingredient toadd a new bread to your repertoire. The flavor from thepoolish and levain is complemented by roasted tomatoesand thyme. The cooking of the tomatoes dries them outslightly, intensifying their sweet flavor.

IngredientsBaker’s

%Total

Quantity Poolish Levain Final Dough

Flour 92 3.4 Lbs. .3 Lbs. .3 Lbs 2.8 Lbs.

Whole Wheat Flour 8 .3 Lbs. --- --- .3 Lb.

Water 66 2.45 Lbs. .3 Lbs. .15 Lbs. 2.0 Lbs.

Olive Oil 5.4 .2 Lbs. --- --- .2 Lbs.

Yeast (fresh) .57 .021 Lbs. .001 Lbs. --- .02 Lbs.

Salt 2.7 .1 Lbs. --- --- .1 Lbs.

Tomatoes* 51.4 1.9 Lbs. --- --- 1.9 Lbs.

Dried Thyme .5 .02 Lbs. --- --- .02 Lbs.

Stiff Levain --- --- --- .2 Lbs. .6 Lbs.

Poolish --- --- --- --- 3.1 Lbs.

Total Dough 226.57 % 17.6 Lbs. .601Lbs. .6 Lbs. 11Lbs.

*Tomatoes should be cut into _” pieces, tossed with olive oil, salt, and pepperand roasted in a 300°F oven for 1 hour. Allow them to cool completely beforeusing.

ProcedurePoolishMixing Mix until ingredients are well incorporated

Fermentation Ferment 12-15 hours at room temp

Levain

Mixing Mix until ingredients are well incorporatedFermentation Ferment 8 hours at room temp

Mixing 1st speed: 4 – 5 minutes (soft dough consistency)Mixing 2nd speed: Short mix (gluten barely developed)

Desired dough temperature 75 to 77°FFirst fermentation 1 hour 45 minutes

Fold One after 30 minutes and 1 after 1 hourIntroduce tomatoes to dough at first fold

Divide: Cut pieces at 1 Lb. (450 g)Rest Time: 30 minutes as loose ball

Shape: Flat discsProof: One hour on flour dusted linenBake: Upside down (flour on the top) - 470°F

Score with polka cut (criss-cross)

Our new home baker classes are a hit! So far, our classes havebeen full each session and the feedback from students has beenexcellent.There are still a few classes left this year, and we willsoon publish a schedule of classes for 2003. If you or someoneyou know is a serious home baker looking to have fun bakingin a hands-on learning environment with all the latest equip-ment, be sure to check out our website for more information about our home baker class schedule.

Artisan Bread at Home August 24 (sold out)12 to 15 students-$150 includes lunch

Baking with SourdoughSeptember 7-8 (sold out)12 to 15 students-$240 includes lunch

Italian Baking November 16-1712 to 15 students-$240 includes lunch

Breakfast Pastry October 5-612 to 15 students-$240 includes lunch

Holiday Baking at HomeFor Parent and ChildSaturday, December 7 Class limited to 7 parents/7 children $175 (includes lunch)

Baker’s Tip from Jeff Yankellow

Troubleshooting Your SourdoughIf your sourdough isn’t producing the flavors andcharacteristics you desire, there is no need to

panic. A few simple adjustments to the feeding may be all youneed. A stiffer starter, at around 50% hydration will producemore acetic acid, resulting in more sour bread.A liquid sour, at100% hydration, will favor lactic acid, and produce a mild andless complex flavor. Temperature as well will have a directimpact. Cooler temperatures favor stronger acidity than warmertemperatures. If your sourdough bread exhibits good yeastactivity and lacks sour flavor of any kind, the balance of wildyeasts and bacteria may be off. To correct this, try feeding yourstarter 5% whole wheat or rye flour for 2-3 feedings until themicroorganism activity is back on track..

Home Baker Classes* *

Roasted Tomato Bread

Recipe

*Tomatoes should be cut into 1/2” pieces, tossed with olive oil, salt,and pepper and roasted in a 300∞F oven for 1 hour. Allow them tocool completely before using.

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by Volker Baumann, CMB, CBSSFBI Guest Instructor

Next to beer production, the production of sourdough is oneof the oldest fermentation systems of food. All doughs keptover a long period of time will be “soured”or acidified by bacteria.Discoveries in Greece and Egypt document dough fermentation since at least 200 AD.

What is Sourdough?

Sourdough is a mixture of flour/grain and water. It is simply afermented product consisting of lactic acid bacteria and yeasts.The fermentation process of sourdoughs has a special place in foodtechnology because it is the only exchange that is dominated byhomofermentative lactobacilli.

Sourdough is not consumed by itself, but rather is a bridgingor supporting product in the production of baked goods.Theprocesses in sourdough are microbiologically complex and canbe monitored through temperature and time.

Technological Significance of Sourdough

At one time in history, sourdough was used mainly for the purposeof leavening bread. When bakers’ yeast was introduced, theapplication of sourdough shifted for the acidification of ryeflour. Breads containing more than 20% of rye flour greatlybenefit from this acidification process.Through the formation of abalanced acidity in quantity, elastic and tender crumb structureswere made possible in rye breads and whole grain breads.

Germany and its eastern neighboring countries, as well asScandinavia (Denmark and Finland) are traditionally consumersof large quantities of rye grain products.This is probably the reasonwhy more research and development of rye is conducted byscientists in these countries.

The acidification of rye flour is critical to the success of ryebreads because the crumb structure is based on the starchstructure—unlike wheat-based breads, where protein providesfor the structure. Rye flours have more amylase activity com-pared to wheat flours. Rye starch also gelatinizes at lowertemperatures than wheat starch.

The combination of high enzyme activity and influence oftemperature (gelatinization) make it necessary to lower the pH-value through acidification of rye flour to produce acceptableproducts.

The Microflora of Sourdough

Lactic acid bacteria and yeasts are the most important micro-organisms in sourdoughs. In the carbohydrate-metabolicprocess, homofermentative and heterofermen-tative lactic acid bacteria are formed.Homofermentative lactic acid bacteria formexclusively lactic acid,while hetero-fermentative lactic acid bacteriaform lactic acid, ethanol or carbondioxide gas acetic acid. This influencesthe quality of the sourdough.

Application of Sourdoughs

Quality control of sourdoughs isassured through the use of regularcontrolled starters and applicationof pure cultures. Bakers must under-stand specific areas of biotechnology tosupport this quality control.

The most important parame-ter to consider in sourdoughfermentation is proper tem-peratures, healthy starter cul-tures, appropriate starter quantities and hygien-ic conditions. Quality breads can be achieved by various sour-dough fermentation processes (one-stage, multiple stages etc) aslong as these parameters are followed.

Sourdough Starter

The most important influential factors for starters are:● Quality of Starter ● Temperature● Starter Quantity● Fermentation Times ● Fermentation Stages● Flour Quality● Dough Yields/Hydration Rate

Common Process of Cell Multiplication for Lactic Acid Bacteria in Sourdoughs

The cell formation of lactic acid bacteria follows five (5) phases:

1. Starting Phase (lag phase)2. Exponential Growth Phase3. Slowing Down Phase (log phase)4. Stationary Phase5. Death Phase

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Sourdough—Made with Rye Flour

“The acidification of rye flour iscritical to the success of rye breadsbecause the crumb structure isbased on the starch structure.”

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These new baking techniques forced thebaker to increase the level of salt to com-pensate for the missing, natural flavor ofthe bread. Due to the higher dough oxida-tion during mixing and the very short—orno—first fermentation time, the aromaswere lacking. Some more recent formulasnow call for between 2.2% and 2.5% salt.

Nowadays, in Artisan or Traditional baking,the average level of salt used in the doughis around 2%.

Now we will take a look at the role of saltin the baking process...

Mixing

In a dough system, the salt will react withthe protein of the flour and create molecularbonds between proteins.

This process will insure better stabilityand a better resistance of the gluten.However, these bonds are not as strong asthe ones created by the use of an oxidizersuch as Ascorbic Acid, for example. Dueto its hydroscopic properties, salt fixes thewater in the dough, limiting the stickiness,or the drying of the surface of the dough,making the dough easier to handle.

Fermentation

A natural characteristic of salt is that itslows down all biological and chemicaltransformations. This property has beenused for a long time to preserve food(cured meat or cured fish, for example).

In baking, the main natural chemicalactivity taking place in a dough is fer-mentation. Salt performs an importantrole by slowing down and regulatingfermentation, making it easier for abaker to control the activity and theprocessing of the dough.

In addition, a salted dough contains betterstrength and offers more gas retention. Asa result, the bread has a better volume and abetter crumb structure.

Shaping

Salt increases the strength of the doughwithout compromising its extensibility.Machinability is therefore improved.

Baking

Because salt fixes the humidity in thedough, the surface of the loaf remainsmoist during baking for a longer periodof time.As the result, the crust of the breadwill be thinner, therefore crispier, and willhave a better coloration and shine.

Shelf Life

Salt effects the shelf life of the final productwith two different results, due to its abilityto attract and fix the water to the structure.

In dry climates, the salt will have a positiveaction on the shelf life by retaining themoisture in the loaf. This will delay thestaling and the drying of the bread.

In humid climates, the salt from the loafwill attract the humidity from the air.Thishumidity will be trapped and fixed in thecrust, negatively increasing its sogginess.

Practical Information

Knowing the functions of salt in thedough can be very helpful to the baker ona daily basis. If the dough develops fasterduring mixing and feels sticky, shiny,warmer and slacker than usual, it is probablya good indication that the salt has beenforgotten or scaled incorrectly (smalleramount) in the formula.

If a baker realizes that there is no salt inthe dough at the end of the mixing, it ispossible to add it back to the mix. Thebest way would be to dilute it first in asmall amount of water to ease its incorpo-ration. Then, add this preparation to thedough and mix in first speed only longenough to have it properly incorporated

into the batch.This could last 2 to 4 min-utes in first speed, depending on the typeof mixer.

Of course. the structure of the dough mightbe changed by this extra mixing time,creating some slightly different final productcharacteristics. The other alternative wouldbe to place the dough in the cooler and useit as a preferment for next day production.

If the absence or lack of salt is noticed laterin the process, after the first fermentation forexample, it is then too late to do anything.Adding the salt and re-mixing the dough atthis stage would be too damaging.

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Salt: A Simple Ingredient, cont.

saltsaltsalt“Knowing the functions of salt in the dough canbe very helpful to the baker on a daily basis.”

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1. Depending on the condition of the starter culture, this phasecan be relatively short or long. Dried starter cultures must bere-hydrated first before they become active again.The danger inthis phase is that the longer it takes, the greater the possibilityof spontaneous fermentation of the flour—causing a faultysourdough.

2. Temperature is most important in this phase. IfHeterofermentative lactic acid bacteria are present in thesourdough, such as lactobacilli sanfrancisco, lactobacilli brevisor lactobacilli pontis, strong carbon dioxide formation results.Yeasts contribute to this leavening as well. That is why in multiple phases/stages of sourdough the amount of yeast can be reduced or be omitted totally.

3. This phase begins when the metabolic process of the lacticacid bacteria is lowed by the lowering of the pH-value.Thisis the ideal time to enter a refreshing stage/phase for the sourdough. It is not recommended to process sourdoughswith less than 8 hours of fermentation.

4.This phase marks the balance between dying and multiplication of cells of microorganisms. In practical termsthis means that total tartaric acidity (TTA) does not increasesignificantly, providing the sourdough is used within a specific time frame (up to 5 hours).

5.The longer the sourdough fermentation continues, the morelactic acid bacteria are dying off. Healthy starter cultures avoidfaulty sourdoughs, especially in this phase.

Advantages and Disadvantages of Using Multiple Stage Sourdoughs

Multiple-stage sourdoughs (Detmolder 2-stage and Detmolder3-stage) contribute to balance of acidity and provide a morerounded flavor and aroma of the bread.

Times and temperatures must be kept precisely for this to happen.If the stages are replenished too soon, low acidity and pooryeast development result. If the stages are replenished too late,high acidity and sour taste are the result.

Breads made with sourdough are easier digested compared tobreads that are not.While some bread can be made yeast-free(Saccharomyces Cerivisiae) completely yeast-free breads arenot possible because bakeries do not use sterile flours and yeastcells will develop.

References:Müller, Gunther/Holzapfel,Wilhelm/Weber, Herbert: Microbiology of FoodsSpicher, Gottfried, Handbook Sauerteig, 5th Edition, Behr's VerlagStolz, Dr. Peter, BackmittelInstitut, Minden/BonnSchünemann & Treu, Baking, The Art & Science, Baker Tech Inc., Calgary

Sourdough—Made with Rye Flourby Volker Baumann, CMB, CBS and SFBI Guest Instructor

continued from page 1

We are offering a fourteen-week program for bread and pastrythat is the only one of its kind in the US. It is a major step inproviding a training program that will match the European pro-grams which have been successfully training bakers for manyyears. Students who complete the program will be competentto work in any bakery or pastry kitchen. The continuing education classes will continue, but the long program isthe next step in raising the level of training for young bakers andpastry chefs in America. But without support from current bakersand bakery owners, the program will not succeed.

And that goes for every baking and pastry training program inthe country. I know it is not easy to leave the bakery to takea class, but perhaps you can send one of your employees to anyof these programs. The small sacrifice of time and cost willbenefit the bakery more than you can measure. Educationexcites people about what they are doing. It will positivelybenefit your bakery and help fulfill a responsibility to pass onknowledge to the next generation. Encourage young people whoshow an interest to pursue a career as a baker or pastry chef andpush them to reach the top levels of the profession through education and practical experience.

I am not saying it is easy, but if we do not support the educationprograms that are surviving now—even those that are thriving—they will not be around in the future. Baking is a profession,not a job.To keep people in the industry we need to set thebar as high as possible.

Michel Suas, SFBI Founder

Letter from Michel, continued

“Encourage young people who showan interest to pursue a career as a bakeror pastry chef and push them to reachthe top levels of the profession througheducation and practical experience.”

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NEW FROM SFBI ...

Intensive 14 Week TrainingProgram/Bread & Pastry

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Classes Begin April 2003Our new 14 week intensive courses are unique in baking education.We offer you an opportunity you won’t find anywhere else—thechance to begin a career in artisan baking with just 14 weeks ofhands-on, intensive training from some of the most respectedinstructors in the United States.

The small, hands-on classes at The San Francisco Baking Institutegive you an uncommon opportunity to learn by doing. Ouremphasis is on teaching skills you can bring to jobs in the realworld. Our progressive program concentrates on the fundamentalsand advanced techniques of artisan baking and pastry in a fast-paced creative environment.

Check out our website for detailed information about our classofferings and instructors.As the only school in the US dedicatedexclusively to artisan baking,The San Francisco Baking Instituteis the place where better baking begins.

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Who Benefits from the New Long Program?

● Working bakers who want to enhance their careers andsalaries by making a serious commitment to learningnew skills.

● Bakeries, restaurants, hotels, and supermarkets thatknow the value of investing in better trained employees.

● Beginning bakers and people changing jobs who areinterested in a rewarding baking career.

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Program Description

■ SFBI’s new long program consists of 14weeks of intensive training, including 2weeks spent at Institut National de laBoulangerie Patisserie in Rouen, France.

■ Our curriculum gives you everythingyou need to become a competent andskilled professional in baking and pastryfrom sanitation and equipment knowledge to actual production methods and techniques.

■ The majority of the training is hands-on,complemented by lecture and demonstration.

■ Guest instructors include visiting industry leaders from throughout North America.

■ Our 14 week program is uniquelyfocused and concentrated, with morehours of training per day than typicaltraining programs.

■ Training includes both bread and pastry.

General Information

■ Class size is limited to 12 people.

■ Tuition includes one meal per dayand all expenses for studying inFrance excluding airfare

■ SFBI will provide assistance in finding housing

■ The primary instructors are DidierRosada, Jeff Yankellow, and PhilippeLecorre

■ Guest instructors include Volker Baumann, Craig Ponsford, Michel Suas,and others to be announced soon.

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Train at Institude la Boulange

in Rouen, for 2 weeks o

More TraininIntensive &

Visit www.inbp.comto find out more aboutInstitut National de la Boulangerie Patisserie

Long ProgramCurriculum Overview

Week One

The first week will be a general introduction toSFBI and the baking profession. Topics willinclude: Sanitation and proper manufacturingpractices, general baking terminology, bakeryequipment, ingredients, scaling techniques,measuring and baker’s math.

Week Two

During this first week of hands-on training, studentswill learn about the relationship between mixing and

fermentation, the standard steps of bread baking, properuse of mixing equipment, the fundamentals and science of the

bread making process and what characteristics aredesirable in a properly baked loaf of artisan bread.■ Short, improved and intensive mixing techniques ■ Controlling dough development with fermen-

tation time and punch and folds

Week Three

■ Use of preferments including poolish, sponge,biga, and levain

■ Bread using multiple flours and grains■ Enriched doughs and the proper mixing tech-

nique when using secondary ingredients

Week Four

■ Natural starters and the sourdough process■ Starting a starter and maintaining a healthy

culture■ Advantages of using natural starters in baking■ The effects of wild yeasts and bacteria ■ Effects of hydration, climate, and feeding schedule

on the final product■ Retarding techniques■ Scheduling of real life production scenarios

Week Five

■ Rye flour selection and evaluation■ German methods of bread baking using sour-

dough rye■ Use and application of the farinograph and

alveograph■ Visiting a flour mill and testing facility

Week Six

■ Using an Italian starter■ Regional French and Italian specialties

bread■ Decorative shaping techniques

Week Seven

■ Lamination using single and doublefolds

■ Fat selection for lamination■ Quick breads using rubbing method,creaming method, and blending method

■ Soft dough and batter style quick breads■ Chemical leaveners-function and selection

■ Use of preferments and retarding techniques withenriched sweet doughs

Week Eight

■ Drop cookies, moldedcookies, bar cookies,decorated cookies

■ Use of pate brisée and patesucrée in tarts

■ Finishing techniques forrustic cakes

■ Custard pies, fresh fruit pies,cooked fruit pies

Week Nine

■ Standard sauces and fillingsused with savory pastry

■ Marriage of cooking and baking■ Cake mixing using creaming method, foaming method, chiffon method,

angel food method and modified method.

Week Ten

■ Cake and cream mise en place and assembly■ Buttercream technology■ Cooked creams and fillings■ Design and finishing of decorated cakes■ Glazing techniques

Week Eleven

■ Production and presentation methods■ Flavor combination and principals of taste■ Sauce preparation and garnishing techniques

Week Twelve and Week Thirteen

Institut National de la Boulangerie Patisserie

in Rouen, France

These two weeks will be spent at the Institut National de la BoulangeriePatisserie in Rouen, France. All expenses are included, excluding airfare.Topics will include bread, sugar and chocolate, ice cream and showpieces.Students will get a first hand look at baking and pastry in Europe throughclassroom study and bakery tours.

Week Fourteen

There will be a guest speaker this week to talk about equipment selectionand bakery design and layout. This is the week that students will use anddemonstrate all of the skills they have learned. Four days of the week willinvolve student projects in preparation for a grand buffet to display theproducts on graduation day. The last day of the week will be a graduationceremony with a viewing of the completed work.

For a Detailed Description ofthe Long Program Curriculum,

Visit our Website

www.sfbi.com

Register by January 1, 2003A limited number of class spaces are available.

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itut National erie Patisserie

n, France of program

ing Hours ... & Hands-On


Incorporation of the Salt

As mentioned earlier in this article, a natural property of the saltis to slow down chemical reactions.When mixing, some air isnaturally incorporated into the dough, causing oxidation of thedough.To a certain point, this oxygen will have some positiveeffect by reinforcing the gluten bonds.But too much oxygen cannegatively effect some flour components (carotenoid pigments)responsible for color and aromas in the final product.

If added at the beginning of the mixing, salt will noticeably slowdown the negative effects of the oxidation.The loss of colorationwill be limited, preserving the integrity of the kernel of wheat.

Added late in the mixing process, salt won’t interfere with oxida-tion.The dough might be negatively affected, resulting in a whitercrumb color and lower levels of aromas in the final product.

As a final note, when an autolyse is involved, salt must be addedafter the autolyse time to avoid any chemical interference withthe enzyme activity taking place during this process.

Salt and the Health of the Consumer

The following is a quick overview of the benefits and downsidesof salt in the human diet (this is by no means intended as amedical recommendation.)

The international scientific community has defined ourphysiological need for salt (the minimum our bodies need tofunction properly) at around 2 grams per day.

However, a high consumption of salt could lead to the devel-opment of several diseases—most particularly heart related diseases.A study in Finland has shown that the reduction of the

salt level, when associated with otherchanges in the diet, dramaticallydecreased the number of healthproblems related to heart disease.

It is interesting to note that someEuropeans bakers are now using this

health news to market their products as “lower in salt” and as abetter product for the nutritionconscious. So far, customershave responded positively tothis new trend.

Different Types of Salt and Flavor of the Final Product

Bakers frequently ask whether or not sea salt has a differenteffect on bread than common table salt. Most often, sea salt isused because of its purity and perceived value in the market-place. But, generally, what most people want to know (usincluded) is whether or not there is a difference in the taste ofthe bread. If you do any significant amount of cooking usingdifferent types of salt, the differences in flavor will be obvious,but we wanted to know if this would hold true for bread.Today,there are a variety of salts for sale. So—rather than focus solelyon two types, we completed a baking test using six differentvarieties of salt.

Our goal was to see how different salts affect the baking processand final taste of the bread. We used six different types of salt.They include common table salt, kosher salt, fine sea salt, CelticGrey salt, Fleur de Sel, and Hawaiian sea salt. All of them aremade of sodium and chlorine, but their differences outnumbertheir similarities. Chemically they differ in the levels of sodiumand chlorine, and also the content of numerous minerals.Physically they are different in color, crystal size and texture.The following is a list of the salts used with descriptions of each one.Following these descriptions is a summary of what was found whenthe breads made with each type were compared to each other.

REFINED TABLE SALT

It has been estimated that 70% of all the salt on the markettoday falls under this classification. Table salt is readily availablearound the country and is most often harvested from landdeposits that have been flooded with water and then allowed toevaporate in a crystal form. Refined table salt is comprised ofapproximately 40% sodium and 60% chlorine. Usually it ismade of very fine crystals and it is common to have iodineadded to it as a result of a mid-20th century plan to eliminateiodine deficiency in the U.S.

Among today’s artisan bakers, table salt probably has the mostnegative image of all the salts because it is often refined for avariety of reasons. Table salt contains no minerals or organicsubstances other than sodium and chlorine. It does, however,contain chemical additives that serve many purposes includingbleaching, preventing water absorption, stabilizing iodineadditives and preventing lumping.

KOSHER SALT

Kosher Salt is harvested using the same methods as table salt. Thedifference is that the salt is raked during the process to produce alarger crystal and flakier texture. This larger crystal is better foradhering to meats, when used in the koshering process. Oftendescribed as having a cleaner taste,Kosher salt is preferred by manycooks and bakers because it is free of additives and therefore con-sidered more pure. Kosher salt consists of sodium and chlorine.

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Salt: A Simple Ingredient, cont.

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FINE SEA SALT

When it comes to bread, sea salt is one of the most commonlyused varieties after refined salt. It is available in large and smallcrystals. Many bakers feel that sea salt is more pure and there-fore the flavor of the bread is better.This may be true if the salt hasbeen harvested from seawater that has evaporated from the heat ofthe sun. But don’t be fooled—sea salt is often refined salt. Thesource is often seawater, but it is processed through an indus-trial system, which includes heating other than by natural sun-light, as well as added bleaching agents, free flowing chemicalsand iodine. Pure sea salt contains more minerals than refinedtable salt, but often the refined varieties have lost these minerals.

CELTIC GREY SALT

Celtic Grey salt is a true sea salt, harvested by hand in the northof France, using traditional Celtic methods.The source is sea-water off the coast of Brittany, which is evaporated by sun andwind. Harvesters rake the salt by hand from mineral rich claybasins; the salt is left completely unrefined. Celtic Grey salt isgenerally sold as large crystals and maintains a gray color thatis indicative of the numerous minerals in the salt. Celtic Greyis approximately 84% sodium and chlorine as opposed toalmost 100% for refined salt.There are up to 80 or more addi-tional minerals and elements, which many say add to its flavorand healthful benefits. Because many of the nutrients are alsofound in the human body, Celtic salt is believed by some to beabsorbed more easily. It is widely used for culinary purposesaround the world.

FLEUR DE SEL

Fleur de Sel is the cream of the crop of Celtic Salt. It is handharvested from the same basins in the north of France as theCeltic Grey salt.The difference is that Fleur de Sel is made upof the fine crystals of salt that are skimmed off the top of thebasins. They are lighter in color than the Grey salt because theyhave less contact with the mineral rich clay in the basin. Fleurde Sel is favored for its texture and clean taste. It may be thepurest salt available and because of the labor intensive harvestingprocess, is usually the most expensive.

HAWAIIAN SEA SALT

Hawaiian Sea Salt, also known as Hawaiian Pink Salt, was oncereserved only for Hawaiian royalty, but in recent years has gainedpopularity inside and outside of Hawaii. It is a coarse salt fromthe Pacific waters around Hawaii which is mixed with bakedHawaiian clay called “Alaea.” This clay has a high concentrationof iron oxide, giving the salt a pink, or sienna color. The clayadds no flavor to the salt but does contribute trace minerals.Some favor the salt for its more mellow quality.

Baking Test and Comparison

As mentioned earlier, the idea of our baking comparisonwas to find some truth in the question of whether or notthe type of salt makes a difference in the taste and performance of the bread.

To complete the most controlled test possible, a simple formula for a baguette was used and the following variablesremained constant:

● Baker’s %● Flour Brand and Type● Mixing Time● Dough Temperature● Fermentation Time● Shaping

The type of salt used was

the only difference in

each dough.

A simple formula for baguettes was

used.The baker’s percents were the

same; the flour was the same; the

mixing time was the same and the

temperature and fermentation times

were the same.

During all stages of handling the dough, there was no

noticeable difference in the dough characteristic.

Although it would be interesting to report that there

were significant differences in the bread directly related

to the type of salt used, this was not the case. After the

bread was baked and cool, 12 individuals participated

in a blind taste test. No comments were verbal to allow

each thought to be independent.There were differences

of opinion in which bread tasted the best and there

were many comments on different characteristics that

were observed. But there were not enough identical or

consistent observations to conclude that the type of salt

had any impact on the flavor of the bread.

Sometimes less is more. And—in the case of salt—

perhaps this is even more true. A little bit of salt goes

a long way, yet without it you will see dramatic

differences in the final baked loaf of bread.

t

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CLASS SCHEDULE 2002

ARTISAN BREADS I:Five Day Course with Didier Rosada; $825 (includes lunch)Sign up for both Artisan I and Artisan II and save 10%.In this class for the beginning artisan baker, Didier will provide the foundation fromwhich all your baking skills will flourish.● October 28 - November 1 (check our website soon for 2003 classes.)

ARTISAN BREADS II:Five Day Course with Didier Rosada; $825 (includes lunch) Sign up for both Artisan I and Artisan II and save 10%.During this more advanced course, Didier will cover starting and maintaining a sourdoughculture, advanced shaping and various specialty breads. If you have questions about thenuances of baking,Artisan Breads II is for you.● November 4 – November 8 (check our website soon for 2003 classes.)

ADVANCED ARTISAN BREADS:Exploring the Science of BakingFive Day Course with Didier Rosada; $825 (includes lunch) Technical knowledge is the foundation of every baker’s skill. In this class,we will takean in-depth look at the art and science of baking. You will gain a greater understanding ofhow technical expertise can improve your baking.● September 16 – September 20

YEASTED BREAKFAST PASTRIESFive Day Course with Philippe LeCorre; $825 (includes lunch)In this intensive hands-on class, you will gain a complete overview of the fundamen-tals required to produce outstanding yeasted breakfast pastries from world-classpastry chef Philippe LeCorre.● October 14 - October 18

RUSTIC PASTRYFive Day Course with Philippe LeCorre; $825 (includes lunch)If you want to expand your product line, this class will teach you how to bring appeal-ing and popular choices to your customers. Philippe will familiarize you with tradi-tional pastry items from Europe, particularly Italy and France.● November 18 - November 22

THE ART & SCIENCE OF GERMAN BREADSFive Day Course with Volker Baumann; $825 (includes lunch)● July 8 - July 12 (check our website soon for 2003 classes.)

CAKES AND CREAMSFive Day Course with Philippe LeCorre; $825 (includes lunch) ● July 22 – July 26 (check our website soon for 2003 classes.)

THE SCIENCE OF FLOURThree Day Course with Didier Rosada; $560 (includes lunch)● July 29 - July 31 (check our website soon for 2003 classes.)

ADVANCED PASTRYFive Day Course with Philippe LeCorre; $825 (includes lunch)● August 26 - August 30 (check our website soon for 2003 classes.)

SAVORY PASTRIESThree Day Course with Philippe LeCorre; $560 (includes lunch) ● September 2 - September 4 (check our website soon for 2003 classes.)

ITALIAN BAKINGFive Day Course with Phillipe LeCorre;$825 (includes lunch)Philippe will lead you on an all encompassing journey to Tuscany and Sicily as you revisitthe famous Italian favorites and adapt them to American ingredients.● October 7 - October 11

HOLIDAY BREAD AND PASTRYThree Day Course with Philippe LeCorre;$560 (includes lunch)Prepare for a more profitable and production-friendly holi-day in this timely class with masterful pastry chef PhilippeLeCorre. Learn how to make a wide selection of the holi-day’s traditional best sellers.● November 13 - November 15

BAKING WITH ORGANIC FLOURFive Day Course with Didier Rosada;$825 (includes lunch)

This class will address the issue of organic vs. conventional flour in the bread makingprocess. Bread will be made with organic and conventional flours for comparison.● December 2 - December 6

NATURALLY LEAVENED WHOLE GRAIN BREADSwith Richard Bourdon of Berkshire Mountain Bakery; $560 (includes lunch)Mr. Bourdon is considered one of the pioneers of the artisan bread resurgence inNorth America. In this class Richard will focus on naturally leavened breads using natural/organic ingredients.● December 9 - December 11

.

10

“Didier is a masterfulteacher—patient andknowledgeable.”

SFBI Student

“I never thought one could teachso much in 5 days. I feel muchmore confidence.” SFBI Student

“I am so glad I came. I feel confident that I can open a bak-ery with your help!”

SFBI Student

“A nice balance of thetheoretical,practical and artistic

sides.”SFBI Student

STAFF INSTRUCTOR

Jeff Yankellow

Originally from Baltimore, MD, Jeffstarted his culinary career as a high schoolstudent, cooking in local restaurants. In1996, he received a degree in CulinaryArts and Foodservice Managementfrom Johnson & Wales University in Providence, RI, andcontinued to cook in Baltimore and Chicago for threeyears after graduating. Jeff decided to pursue an interestin baking with a focus on Artisan Breads and Viennoiserie.He worked at several bakeries in the Maryland area; com-pleted a 6 month internship at The National Baking Centerin Minneapolis; and worked as a baker in Minneapolis beforejoining SFBI as a staff instructor.

BAKING & PASTRYINSTRUCTOR

Philippe Le Corre

Philippe LeCorre studied for

three years at the school run by

the famous Gaston Lenotre in

Paris. After finishing first in his class, Philippe stayed on

at Lenotre for three more years as head of a production

team that prepared product for the company's upscale

pastry shops. He came to the United States in 1984 to

lead the pastry and baking programs for the Sofitel

Hotel Group’s American properties and later for the

Minneapolis Hilton. Before joining SFBI, Philippe was

the baking and pastry instructor at The National Baking

Center since its inception in 1996.

HEAD INSTRUCTOR

Didier Rosada

Didier Rosada began baking at the

age of 15 in France, where he

attended a regional professional

school and apprenticed under a local

baker. He was awarded the Brevet de

Matrise from the Institut National de

Boulangerie Patisserie in Rouen,

France, and in 1996 he became the unofficial trainer for

the Baking Team USA, which took first place in the bread

category at the Coup du Monde de la Boulangerie. For the

past several years, he has helped train the world champion

Baking Team USA for the Coup du Monde in Paris.Didier

was most recently a baking instructor at The National

Baking Center in Minneapolis before joining us as Head

Instructor at SFBI.

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Savory PastriesPhilippe Le Corre

2Savory PastriesPhilippe Le Corre

3 4 5 6Baking withSourdough

Home Baker Class

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9 10 11 12 13 14

AdvancedArtisan Baking

Didier Rosada

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Artisan BakingDidier Rosada

17Advanced

Artisan Bakingwith Didier Rosada

18Advanced


19Advanced


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SUNDAY MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY SATURDAY

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Baking withSourdough

Home Baker Class

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tember 2002

1 4Breakfast

PastryHome Baker Class

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7 8 9 10 11 12Italian BakingPhilippe Le Corre

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BreakfastPastry

Home Baker Class

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Italian BakingPhilippe Le Corre




Yeasted BreakfastPastry

Philippe Le Corre


Philippe Le Corre


Philippe Le Corre


Philippe Le Corre


Philippe Le Corre

Artisan Breads IDidier Rosada




1Artisan Breads I

Didier Rosada

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28Artisan Breads Icont. from October

Didier Rosada

Holiday Breadsand Pastries

Philippe Le Corre


Philippe Le Corre


Philippe Le Corre

Italian BakingHome Baker Class

Italian BakingHome Baker Class

Rustic PastryPhilippe Le Corre





Coming in December ...

12/2-12/6: Baking with Organic Flour12/7: Holiday Baking for Parent and Child

(Home Baker Class)12/9-12/11: Naturally Leavened Whole Grain Breads

with Richard Bourdon

November

IN ADDITION TO ARTISAN BAKING CLASSES AND SEMINARS, SFBI

OFFERS CONSULTING SERVICES TAILORED TO YOUR SPECIFIC NEEDS:

B A K E RY C O N S U L T I N G

● Bakery Design and Layout● Assessing equipment requirements● Technical assistance● Production Management ● On-site training in European baking techniques● Artisan bread and pastry recipes

FORMULA RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT

● Developing signature products● Testing and comparing state of the art baking equipment● Troubleshooting formulation/production problems● Training small groups● Ingredient analysis

THESANFRANCISCOBAKINGINSTITUTE

390 SWIFTAVENUE,#13SOUTHSANFRANCISCO,CA94080

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L O O K W H A T ’ S R I S I N G . . .● New 14-Week Training Prog ram for Profess ional Baker s ● Fal l 2002 Clas s Calendar s

● Volker Baumann on Rye in Sourdough ● Baking with Sa l t : His tor y and Taste Test

THE BREAD PROJECT

The Bread Project is a non-profit group with anindependent board of directors. The organization’sgoal is to provide comprehensive training to peopleinterested in the baking trade. The SFBI and TheBread Project have created an alliance that we hopewill greatly benefit both prospective bakers and thebaking industry. We are entering our second yearwith this project.

Educational programs that focus on baking are prohibitivelyexpensive for many people.We hope that this project willbecome a model for the education and training of manygenerations of future bakers. Currently the program willbe funded through a variety of grants.The goal is to createan industry-sponsored fund that will give scholarships tothe students, freeing The Bread Project from continualfund-raising. We believe that change has to happenregarding the training of our future bakers. SFBI is proudto be taking a first step!

New 14-Week Training Program!

PRSRT STDU.S. POSTAGE

PAIDSO. SAN FRANCISCO, CA

PERMITNO. 655

rising - san francisco baking institutesfbi.com/pdfs/newss02.pdf · sourdough is not consumed by...

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