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Contents

Introduction to leather garment 01

Variety of leather for garments & properties 02 – 04

Types of garment leather 05

Principles in production of garment leather 06

Tanning, dyeing &finishing of garment leather 07 – 09

DESCRIPTION,DETAILS & PRICE OF GARMENT LEATHER 10 – 14

LEATHER FAQ 15 – 16

Bibliography 17

1

AN INTRODUCTION TO LEATHER FOR GARMENTS

GARMENT LEATHER

A wide selection of raw stock with large differences in the structure of the skin and hide, fat

content, etc., is used for garment leather. This diversity implies that processes have to be

adapted to the particular type of raw hide in order to gain the best results. The methods

employed in the processing of garment leather are much more varied than those used in the

manufacture of other types of leather. Goatskin and pigskin are mainly used for suede

garment because of the structure of the skin, but most sheepskin is full-grain. Garment leather

has to be soft and lightweight, with a pleasant handle and reasonably weatherproof.

PROPERTY OF GARMENT LEATHER

The properties of leather vary considerably depending upon the type and quality of both the

skins and the tanning process. Every piece of leather has individual markings which relate to its

origins and add character to each skin.

Like a fine wine, a good quality leather garment should improve with age. The natural

elasticity of each hide means it is flexible and will stretch and return to its original shape.

Leather also has a natural tendency to repel liquids and resist staining. It's also fire resistant,

and emits no toxic fumes, even when exposed to intense heat.

Relative to virtually all man-made textiles, leather is very strong and has a high resistance level

to tears and punctures. The comfort provided by most leather goods is due in part to leather's

ability to combine breathing and insulating properties. You may have heard... "Leather is hot in

summer and cold in winter." In reality, leather adjusts constantly to its environment. Because it

is a natural product, leather "breathes" freely, maintaining a comfort level in all seasons.

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VARIETIES IN LEATHER FOR GARMENT

Leather, Suede & Nubuck

Leather, suede and nubuck are natural materials which provide good wind shielding, warmth

and fiber breathability as well as being very comfortable and easy to wear.

The quality is determined by the softness and the origin of skin / hides (e.g. lamb, kid, sheep,

goat, pig, and cow/buffalo). Lamb, kid, sheep and goat leathers are very soft and supple to

the touch, as well as beautifully lightweight making them very comfortable and a joy to wear.

Pig, cow/buffalo hide leathers are thicker and heavier and therefore cheaper in cost.

PROPERTIES

Leather, nubuck, suede are flexible and natural fabrics which will mould and adjust with

regular wear to the body at the contact and contour points. This is the case whether the fit on

the person is loose, fitted or comfort fit. Leather garments will also stretch with regular wear at

snug contact points. A new leather jacket, coat or waistcoat will have been having on a

hanger in the warehouse before you receive. It is therefore not uncommon for the leather to

stick out from the body where there is a bit of space. The leather with wear will fall into the

body with a little wear and also as it warms up from body heat. Generally leather garments all

improve with wear and will give the wearer a lot of pleasure and comfort during its life. In our

opinion you can't beat a premium quality leather jacket or coat, and yes we are bias as

otherwise we would not be in the leather jacket business.

PROPERTIES OF NAPPA LEATHER

Nappa leather is the highest quality and most expensive leather type. Nappa leather is

defined by its beautifully lightweight structure, suppleness and softness. Nappa leather is

derived from lamb and sheep skins. The main benefit of a garment crafted in nappa leather is

that it can be worn all day with out it weighing down like a lead coat (which is what hide

leather jackets and coars can feel like). Of course if you want a jacket or coat that you can

abuse then hide leather will definitely be more suitable. So it is all down to what you want as

an individual.

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TYPES OF FINISHING USED IN NAPPA:

Standard - very subtle natural sheen.

Brushed - matt finish with no sheen.

Crushed / Creased - subtle crushed or creased effect.

Glazed - shiny glaze finish. Slightly stiffens leather.

Semi-Glazed - as a above but lighter glazed effect. Slightly stiffens leather.

Washed - subtle antiqued finish that lends a great added vintage styling.

Rub off - colour has been lightly rubbed off during the dye stage.

Distressed - fashion worn look.

PROPERTIES OF NUBUCK LEATHER

Nubuck is made from finely sanding and milling full grain leather, the process is expensive and

produces a luxuriously soft finish. Nubuck can be described as velvet on leather, this short nap

that catches the light to give a very subtle dual tone effect in a matt finish. High quality

nubuck jackets and coats offer an attractive vintage look finish.

Nubuck is generally more expensive than standard nappa leather.

nubuck has gorgeous velvety soft touch finish and is a beautiful medium weight, it is definitely

gorgeous to touch and wear.

PROPERTIES OF SUEDE LEATHER

Suede is derived from an interior split of a leather skin. Suede has short hair like structure on

both sides. Suede is generally cheaper than premium nappa leather or nubuck.

Finish - short hair / fuzzy finish. Lightweight to wear.

PROPERTIES OF HIDE LEATHERS (PIG&COW)

Pig and cow skins are used for hide leathers. Pig and cow skins are thicker and

heavier than nappa leather, with cow hide being the heaviest and thickest. Cow hide is also

commonly referred to as 'buffalo hide' - it is the exact same leather type.

Pig and cow hide (buffalo hide) leathers are lower in cost and less sought after due to their

weight and thickness. The pig or cow skin is sliced by a laser to reduce weight and thickness

to make it more suitable and practical for wear and crafting into jackets.

continue……..

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It is generally worthwhile being aware that the leather jackets and coats generally sold within

high street fast moving fashion chains are typically made of very thin slices of cow and, or pig

hides in order to achieve the maximum number of leather sections and hence garments from

a single hide. Thus quality is sacrificed for higher profits.

Leather motorbike jackets are also typically made from hide leathers for extended durability;

these are made of an optimum thickness to provide protection and sufficient flexibility.

Finish - full grain thick leather.

BRUSHED HIDE LEATHER

This is milled cow hide leather to give a nubuck type finish. This has a soft touch finish and is

thicker than nubuck, nappa leather or suede.

The added advantage of brushed leather is that it has a matt finish.

Finish - brushed matt effect finish in a soft touch.

IMITATION LEATHER

There are very good leather, nubuck and suede imitation garments available and these are

referred to and labelled as "faux". It is worthwhile noting that imitations generally mimic the

higher quality end of genuine leather, suede and nubuck skins (i.e. these do not imitate the

lower quality end). All the same, the imitations do not offer the wind shielding, warmth and

fibre breathability of real leather, nubuck or suede. Most people that have an imitation

leather, suede or nubuck jacket or coat will either find that it does not keep them warm in the

depths of winter or will find themselves hot or sweating in the garment when in the warm

indoors or in a warm environment.

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TYPES OF GARMENT LEATHER

Cowhide is the most common leather used in the making of garments, furniture and leather

goods. Cowhide as a category covers a wide spectrum of textures and quality, but generally,

it is quite durable, easy to care for and resistant to water and dirt. Cowhide leather will

maintain its integrity, taking on the shape of the wearer, making it more comfortable with

everyday use. This affordable, functional leather offers fashion, value, endless colors and style.

Lambskin is very soft, luxurious leather. Its natural lightweight layers give it a distinctive, velvety

touch, which suites form fitting jackets, pants, skirts as well as coats. But don't let its delicate

texture discourage you. With a little extra care, lambskin is very wearable and the ultimate

luxury.

Pigskin is by far the most popular and versatile, easily transformed into fashion's most current

looks. When tanned on the outside, it produces smooth napa finish, often used for jackets and

accessories. Tanning on the inside results in a silky suede finish. The natural, lightweight

structure of pigskin produces delicate patterns, textures and silky soft naps, perfect for

sportswear, shirts and blazers.

Sheepskin refers to the hide of a sheep used with the wool still attached. Usually, the wool side

faces into the garment or accessory, but it can also be made reversible. The wool can be

ironed, which means straightened to yield a smooth, fur-like appearance, or it can be left

naturally curly. Whichever way the wool is styled, this is the warmest leather available.

Shearling is quite similar in appearance to sheepskin, the term shearling refers to hides from

lambs which are generally much lighter in weight then sheepskin hides and much softer.

Although they may be lighter, shearling coats are just as warm as the heavier sheepskin. They

are an elegant alternative to a fur coat.

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The following principles need to be observed in the production of garment leather

Raw stock Cattle hide calfskin, sheepskin, pigskin, goatskin and skins of various

game animals such as deerskin.

Beam house The skin has to be opened up well during liming.

Greasy skins need to be degreased well.

Tannage Chrome tanning is more appropriate than other tanning methods

due to the required softness of the leather.

For that reason combinations with chrome and glutaraldehyde

can also be found quite often.

Retannage Attention needs to be paid to the following factors when selecting

syntans and polymers:

High light fastness

Neutral odour

Dyeing Leather can be dyed to all colors, from classical shades to very

intense, brilliant shades.

High light fastness

High migration resistance and perspiration resistance

Fat liquoring /

water repellents

Neutral odour

Extremely soft leather

High bulk

Pleasant handle

High water resistance and perspiration resistance

Water-resistant treatment may be applied

Finishing Leathers range from being left unfinished to being given a fairly

thick coat of finish.

Stretchy leather

Pleasant handle and optical appearance

7

ANNING INVOLVED IN LEATHER FOR GARMENT

The tanning industry is a multi-billion dollar industry with factories throughout the world. While

Leather has always been largely a byproduct of the meat industry, today this is a universal

fact; the most notable exceptions being some types of snake skins. The greatest and most

valuable advancements in tanning technology relate to the mitigation of its environmental

effects. Today, the vast majority of countries with tanning industries have stringent

environmental regulations to ensure that these technological advancements are, in fact,

employed. While the exact specifications and procedures for tanning vary considerably,

depending on the type of skin and its application, the basic processes are common to all

tanning operations.

THE TANNING PROCESS

The skins and hides are received at the tannery in a cured form, which means they have been

treated with salt to prevent rot before they leave the meat packing plant. The hides are then

soaked in water to soften them and to remove the remaining salt solution. The soaking period

varies from two to forty eight hours. The next step is fleshing. Machines equipped with a rubber

roller and a shaft to which spiral knives are attached remove the flesh and tissues from the

inner side of the skin. These knives leave a clean, uniform surface. After fleshing, workers

transfer the skin to a department of the tannery known as the beam house. Here the hair is

removed by soaking the hides in a vat with a solution of lime and sodium sulfate. The hides are

milled or kept in motion in the vat for several days.

The next operation involves removing the lime from the skins. After washing with cold water

they are placed in a bating vat which contains an enzyme and a sulfate or chloride. Bating

also softens the texture of the hide during this 3 to 4 hour treatments. At this stage, the hides

enter one of two possible processes of tanning: Vegetable or Chrome tanning. Leathers for

shoe soles, heavy cases, harnesses and most upholstery applications are prepared by

vegetable tanning. Many plants and barks contain a bitter ingredient called tannin. It has the

property of combining with proteins to form a compound that will not rot or decompose

easily. In this case, the protein is the hide and after tannin is added, the compound is leather.

The principal sources of tannin are leaves, nuts, bark and woods of hemlock, oak, chestnuts

and various other types of trees.

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Chrome tanning is used for tanning the upper leather of shoes, handbags, wallets and

garments. Prior to chrome tanning, the hides must be pickled after the bating step. Pickling

involves soaking the hides in a solution of salt and acid for several hours to achieve a low pH

level. This is necessary because the chrome-tanning agents that are to follow are not soluble

otherwise. The pickled skins or hides are then placed in a tanning drum containing a solution

of common salt, soda and acid. The chemical reaction to the compounds tans the hide and

after 5-10 hours, the conversion to leather has been effected.

DYEING & FINISHING

After the leather has been tanned, it is then split and shaved to a uniform thickness

appropriate for the intended product. Dyeing or coloring is achieved by placing the leather in

another drum with a combination of coloring materials and chemicals to increase their

penetration. This process may take several hours.

Fat liquoring is the last step in the "wet" stage and requires about one hour. Here the leather is

placed in a drum with a variety of oils and greases. This step and the combinations of oils

employed, determine the pliability of the leather. The leather is then dried to remove all excess

moisture. A number of different methods are used, each having a different "dehydration" level

which influences the characteristics of the final product. Often the leather is then buffed. All

skins have natural healed scratches or blemishes, which attest to the genuineness of leather.

However, to improve its final appearance, it is often desirable to lightly sand or buff the grain

surface. If the leather is not buffed, the leather is top or full grain leather.

Finishing involves the application of film-forming materials to provide abrasion and stain

resistance and to enhance colour. Pigments are also added when a more opaque or vivid

coloring effect is required. However, with smooth or top grain leather, usually only a light,

transparent coating is applied. This is known as aniline dyeing. Of the two, aniline finished

leathers are the finest quality. The final processing step to influence the appearance and feel

of the leather is called plating. The plating operation is done on a press capable of exerting

up to 300 tons per square inch. The plating smoothes the surface of the coating materials just

Continue….

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applied and firmly affixes them into the grain. At the same time, the plate may be specially

engraved to emboss a particular pattern on the leather.

The specifications and required characteristics of the tanned leather is determined by the end

use of product for which it is intended. Tanneries produce to order for a wide variety of final

goods manufactures; there is a huge range in the quality of both materials and workmanship

in leather goods. In 1995, total world leather production was approximately 7,000,000 metric

tons of cowhide; 1,400,000 metric tons of lambskin, shearling, sheepskin; 800,000 metric tons of

pigskin and 450,000 metric tons of goatskins. It has been estimated that more than 2,000,000

people in the world are employed in the various branches of the leather industry.

Today, the leather tanning industry stands out as perhaps the most productive byproduct

industry in the world. It is hard to imagine the environmental impact of the additional synthetic

product manufacturing which would be required to replace all of the current applications for

leather, suede and shearing. It is impossible to imagine how any of these synthetic substitutes

could ever match the esthetic appeal of genuine leather.

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DESCRIPTION,DETAILS & RETAIL PRICE OF SOME GARMENT LEATHER

Garment leather is breathable, supple, elastic and also true to form while tough and

durable like a second skin. Leather being a refined natural product is traded in different

sizes. Garment leather is obtainable in either square meters (m2) or in square footage (qfs).

Square Foot : 1qfs = 0,0929 m² , 1m² = 10,76 qfs.

Steed (Horse) Nappa Relax: smooth and extreme soft Nappa Leather for high end

garments.

Item Description Details

Retail

Price(€/m²)

Horse Nappa

Leather Relax

A thin garment horse leather, somewhat

stronger as lamb nappa, ideal for pants,

jackets, erotic attire, pilot caps, etc.

Thickness:

0,7-0,9 mm

Size: 1 Skin

ca. 3-4 m²

49,50

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Steer Suede Leather for strong and durable Garments

Item Description Details Retail Price

Steer Suede

Leather

1.1 - 1.3mm

Steer Suede Leather, all colors

complete steer splits with fine finish.

Also known as: Wild Leather, Raw

Leather; good for leather garments.

Leather goods, belts, shoes and other

applications.

Thickness: 1.1 - 1.3

mm

Size: Croupon ca.

1,4 m²

Order minimum: 1

Croupon

27,50

€/m²

Pig Suede Leather for fine Garments

Item Description Details Retail Price

Pig Suede

Leather

Pig Suede, (Known as: Wild

Leather, Raw Leather), full finish,

good for fine garments, shirts,

Women’s attire.

Thickness: 0,5-0,7

mm

Size: ca. 10 - 15 qfs

Order minimum: 1 Skin

4,30 €/qfs

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Lamb Nappa Leather for light garments

Item Description Details Retail Price

Lamb

Nappa, 1A

For soft garments like: Lamp Nappa Leather

jackets, trousers. Additional colors upon

request with a minimum six skin per color

purchase.

Thickness:

0,8-0,9

Size: ca. 5-10

qfs

5,90

€/qf

s

Lamb

Nappa,

black

For soft garments like: Lamb Nappa

Leather jackets, trousers

Thickness:

0,8-0,9 mm

Size: ca. 5-10

qfs

3,90 €/qf

s

Lamb

Nappa Eco,

black

Special request, for soft garments like:

Lamp Nappa Leather jackets, trousers.

Thickness:

0,8-0,9 mm

Size: ca. 5-10

qfs

3,90 €/qf

s

Water Buffalo Leather for Garments

Item Description Details Retail Price

Water

Buffalo

Leather

Nubuk

Nubuk Leather with polished

surface. Wild goods with natural

texture, good for robust leather

garments such as pants and

medieval costumes.

Thickness: 1,0-1,2

mm

Size: ca. 30-45 qfs

3,85 €/qfs

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Chamois Leather / Lining leather, unsorted, authentic

Item Description Details Retail Price

Lining Leather,

Sheep, traditionell

finish

Authentic Chamois Leather like in

early medieval times, or by Western -

Country, traditional tanning process,

sorted by quality.

Thickness: 0,9-

1,2 mm

Size: ca. 7-10 qfs

6,3

0 €/qfs

Kangaroo Leather, extremely tear resistant. For thin garments and Falcon hoods.

Item Description Details Retail Price

Kangaroo

Leather

For extreme strong garments, like: motorcycle clothing,

corsets, Falconry articles. Wild goods with natural texture.

Thickness: 0,5-

1,0 mm

Size: ca. 5 - 10 qfs

8,90 €/qfs

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Leather for erotic needs

For theneeds in the erotic area only leather with a closed surface are mostly used.

Recognizable for the ability to be hand washed and with a nice shine, as well as having a

high tensile strength. We recommend for you:

fine under garments

Lamb Nappa 0,8 - 0,9 mm

black,

malborored

Patent

Material, Steer

Nappa Leather Solid

0,4 - 0,5 mm /

0,6 - 0,7 mm

black

fine under garments ,

extreme strength

Kangaroo

Leather, Steer Nappa

Leather Solid

0,8 - 0,9 mm / 0,6

- 0,7 mm

black, brown

normal Garments

Horse Leather, Aniline

Leather

0,7 - 0,9 mm diff. colors

sturdy Outfit

Thick Leather, Full

Grain

1,4 - 1,6 mm black

Restraints, Straps and heavy

equipment

Harness Sides veg. 2,2 - 2,5 mm black

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LEATHER FAQ

Q: I see leather garments at lots of different price points. Why are some more expensive

than others?

Ans -Inexpensive leathers tend to be made from cows that are older and whose hide is

thicker, heavier in weight and generally quite durable. More pricey leather is

commonly made from a younger animal whose hide is smoother, lighter in weight and

traditionally more delicate. Tanning processes and treatments can also affect a leather

garment's price, as do all sorts of design considerations.

Q: I saw a pair of leather jeans in a magazine that were listed as washable. I always

thought that water ruined leather. Could you explain?

Ans: Typically, "washable leathers" are made of suede that has been coated with an

environmentally friendly enzyme and then pre-washed. This process strengthens the

material, gives it a more leathery hand and renders it able to withstand the washing

machine. Cold water with a mild liquid soap (not regular detergent) in the gentle cycle

is recommended; then tumble-dries on low. Since the garments are pre-washed,

consumers will find minimal change in color and texture. By eliminating the need for

traditional leather cleaning, washable leather can also bring big savings. BUT NOTE

CAREFULLY: Most leathers are not washable. Always check the garment's care label or

Consult with your place of purchase to be certain whether your particular garment is

made of washable leather or suede.

Q: What should I do when leather is exposed to rain or salt from the streets?

Ans: Promptly remove salt deposits by sponging with clear water, and then allow wet or

damp leather items to air-dry naturally, away from any heat source. You can then treat

most items with a specially formulated leather conditioner to renew flexibility, while

suede can be brushed with a terry towel to restore its surface.

Q: My leather skirt became wrinkled during travel. Can it be fixed?

Ans: It can. Most wrinkles will hang out on their own, although it is perfectly safe to iron

leather. Simply set iron on its rayon setting, use heavy brown wrapping paper as a

pressing cloth on the right side of the item and iron. Wrinkles should come right out. As

always when doing something at home, test on a small, inconspicuous area first.

Q: Does leather lose its shape?

Ans: In a word, yes. Leather jackets and shirts should be hung on wide or padded

hangers to best maintain their shapes. Shoe and boot trees keep footwear looking

good and handbags will look better longer when stuffed with white tissue paper when

not in use.

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Q: Are there any common things that can damage leather?

Ans: Perfumes, hair spray and your natural body oils are a few of the things that, over

time, can discolor or damage leather. You should avoid spraying perfumes or hair spray

while wearing your garment. A scarf at the neckline will also help keep hair and body

oil away from the collar.

Q: I had my leather jacket professionally cleaned and the color changed. Is this

normal?

A: As a matter of fact it is. Leather is a natural product and you can never determine

exactly how it will react to the cleaning process. An LAA recommended leather

cleaner would clean the garment and then restore the essential oils that were lost

during the procedure. Since the cleaner can never exactly match the method that

was originally used when your garment was created, this process will sometimes

produce a slight change in color or texture. Also note that for this reason it is important

to clean matching garments at the same time.

Q: What kinds of products can be used to keep my leather looking great?

A: LAA can provide names of reputable manufacturers of at-home treatments. Be sure

to choose products intended for your item and carefully read and follow the

instructions for best results. Never use household products, waxes, silicone or any other

preparations that impair the leather's ability to breathe. And always test products on a

small inconspicuous area first.

Q: How should I store my leathers?

A: A dark closet that is neither too dry nor too humid is an ideal storage place. When

putting garments away for the season, always place them in breathable covers. Never

use plastic, which can dry out leather.

Source : www.agoatoolkit.com/agoa/English/Select%20Products/.../Leather/04.pdf

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BIBLIOGRAPHY

www.leatherhouse.com

www.agoatoolkit.com/agoa/English/Select%20Products/.../Leather/04.pdf

cbi.edu.in