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The Life of an International Peace Observer in Choc, Colombia November 2009

People in the Colombian capital Bogot saythat the Colombian Province of Choc is more

like Africa than like the rest of Colombia.1

Those who have spent some time in Choc

argue that the region is indeed Colombia; it isthe hidden part of the country the uncared

for backyard the host is always hesitant to

show its visitors.

After an early morning start in Bogot and a lessthan one hour flight west, first crossingColombias most western Andean mountain range

and then flying over what seems to be endless jungle, I arrive in Quibd, the capital of theProvince of Choc. When I walk of the airplane atthe small Quibd Airport, I walk straight into a

wall of heat and humidity. This is one of the mosthumid places on earth and from now on I willhave to get used to having a constant layer ofsweet and dirt on my body.

It will soon be evident that mopeds (rapimotos)

are the preferred means of transportation in thistown of 100 000. They dwindle down the streetsat such speeds that I feel like crossing the street isa game of Russian roulette; a game based on luckrather than on rational logics. Once I have gotten

over the initial chock I find that this colonial townfounded in 1648 has its charm. The largecathedral, the convent, and the river walk alongthe River Atrato - characterized by its rapid flowand its brown waters - soon become waterholesfor those, like me, who thirst for tranquility.

Tranquility, however, is never more than a falsesmoke curtain in this region. Chocs naturalresources, isolation, border with Panama, and longcoast line makes it an attractive region for all ofthe armed groups involved in the Colombian

conflict. A substantial percentage of thepopulation in Choc, which is mainly Afro-

1The often negative intonation used when this is said is in

itself subject for a larger discussion.

Colombian and indigenous, has been internallydisplaced2 due to the conflict and the Agency forSocial Action estimates that more than 6000internally displace people (IDP:s) live only in thetown of Quibd.

This is the context in which I will spend the yearworking as an International Peace Observer forthe Swedish Fellowship of Reconciliation(SweFOR), an ecumenical non-violenceorganization founded in 1919 which, among otherthings, provide accompaniment of human rightsdefenders threatened by political violence. As anInternational Peace Observer I will accompanyorganizations, physically and politically, not only

as a way of deterrence of any violence againstthem, but also to encourage them and try to openup both their real and perceived political space.

In Choc, most organizations are ethnically basedand they fight for the right of its members to land,housing, education, alimentation, and health care.An up-hill battle as the majority of the populationin Choc lives in very poor conditions and manyhave no access to basic necessities. Meanwhile,the money the government invests in the

development of the region goes to buildingshopping malls and soccer stadiums. Someorganizations still fight for the collective right tothe land they live on, a right guaranteed by theColombian constitution. However, multinationalcompanies, in search of natural resources such asgold, out-power the local organizations and theclaims of the locals get caught in years ofbureaucracy and red tape.

Meanwhile, the different armed groups - illegal

and legal, sometimes together with the

2 Official numbers from the Colombian government statesthat 12% of the population is displaced; however, localorganizations argue that the number is as high as 35%.

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The Life of an International Peace Observer in Choc, Colombia November 2009

multinationals and sometimes not - push their waythrough the land in search of control. Because it isnot only the natural resources that attract people toChoc; its border with Panama and its long coastline also makes it an attractive gateway fortransferring the White Gold to the powerful

country up north. While groups from the outsidegain control of the land, the people who have livedon it for generations lose it. Displacementcontinues and the people of Choc continue tolose part of their culture and the social networkand capital they have built up for generations.

While it will take a while for the body to adapt tothe extreme conditions of this climate (despitehaving discovered that a late night rain can bring

temporarily relief from the otherwise sosweltering heat), it will be much harder for theheart and soul to adapt to living in the middle ofthe Colombian conflict. As I contemplate that thiswill be my home for the coming year I realize thatthis is indeed Colombia. It might be the backyard

of Colombia as it is portrayed to the larger public,but it is the real face of the Colombian conflict.

/Lotta, Choc, Colombia, November 2009

Facts about Choc

On average there is one doctor per 10.000inhabitants, and 1 soldier per 180inhabitants.

The unemployment rate is 85% and theilliteracy rate is over 30%.

An inhabitant of Choc on average makesabout 170/$250 per year.

Choc has the highest levels of infant andmaternal mortality in all of Colombia.

Source: The Diocese of Quibd

I work as an International Peace Observer for the Swedish Fellowship of Reconciliation (SweFOR). Reflections

expressed here are personal and do not necessarily reflect those of my employer. If you would like to publish this text,

pass it forward, or be on my mailing list, please contact me atwesterberg.lotta@gmail.com. For more information about

the work of SweFOR, please visitwww.krf.se/en.

mailto:westerberg.lotta@gmail.comhttp://www.krf.se/enhttp://www.krf.se/enmailto:westerberg.lotta@gmail.com