recipes from ethan stowell's new italian kitchen by ethan stowell and leslie miller

8/9/2019 Recipes from Ethan Stowell's New Italian Kitchen by Ethan Stowell and Leslie Miller

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Ethan StowellsNew Italian Kitchen
http://www.randomhouse.com/crown


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Ethan Stowells

New Italian KitchenBold Cooking from Seattles

Anchovies & Olives, How to Cook a Wolf,

Staple & Fancy Mercantile, and Tavolta

Ethan Stowell and Leslie Miller

Photography by Geoffrey Smith

TEN SPEED PRESSBerkeley


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Some of the recipes in this book include raw eggs, meat, or fish. When these

foods are consumed raw, there is always the r isk that bacteria , which is

killed by proper cooking, may be present. For this reason, when serving

these foods raw, always buy certified salmonella-free eggs and the freshest

meat and fish available from a reliable grocer, storing them in the refrig-

erator until they are served. Because of the health risks associated with the

consumption of bacteria that can be present in raw eggs, meat, and fish,

these foods should not be consumed by infants, small children, pregnant

women, the el derly, or any persons who may be immunocompromised.

Copyright 2010 by Ethan Stowell and Leslie Miller

Photographs copyright 2010 by Geoffrey Smith

All rights reserved.

Published in the United States by en Speed Press, an imprint o the

Crown Publishing Group, a division o Random House, Inc., New York.

www.crownpublishing.com

www.tenspeed.com

en Speed Press and the en Speed Press colophon are registered

trademarks o Random House, Inc.

Library o Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Stowell, Ethan.

Ethan Stowells new Italian : bold cooking rom the Pacific Northwest /

Ethan Stowell and Leslie Miller. 1st ed.

p. cm.

Includes index.

Summary: Te debut cookbook rom Seattles acclaimed young che,

Ethan Stowell, che/owner o Union, avolata, How to Cook a Wol, and

Anchovies & Olives, eaturing refined yet unussy modern-Italian cook-

ing that showcases the best o Pacific Northwest ingredientsProvided

by publisher.

1. Cookery, Italian. 2. CookeryWashingtonSeattle. I. Miller,Leslie (Leslie Ann) II. itle.

X723.S7986 2010

641.5945dc22

2010016234

ISBN 978-1-58008-818-3

Printed in China

Design by Nancy Austin

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

First Edition


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32 Soft-Shell Crab Bruschetta with Spring Garlic Aioli

32 Spot Prawn Crudo with Chile and Mint

34 Frittata with Morels and Savory

35 Bruschetta with Fresh Ricotta and Pine NutSalsa Verde

37 Soft-Boiled Eggs with Anchovy Mayonnaise

38 Shigoku Oysters on the Half Shell withAccompaniments

39 Uni Spoons

The Measure of a Cook: Soups

42 Soups with Artichokes

42 Essence of Artichoke Soup

42 Farro and Artichoke Soup

44 Mediterranean Mussel and Chickpea Soup with

Fennel and Lemon

46 Clam Brodetto

47 Parmesan Brodo

48 Oxtail Soup with Farro and Root Vegetables

51 Farmers Market Soup

52 English Pea Soup with Poached Duck Egg

53 Kabocha and Porcini Soup

54 Corn and Chanterelle Soup

56 Heirloom Tomato Soup with Garlic Croutons

57 Sorrel and Yogurt Soup

ix Acknowledgments

1 Introduction

3 A Note on Ingredients

Nibbles and Bits

8 Baked Stellar Bay Kusshi Oysters with GarlicBreadcrumbs and Oregano

10 Bruschetta with Smashed Chickpeas and GrilledLambs Tongue

11 Crispy Young Favas with Green Garlic Mayonnaise

13 Beef Carpaccio with Preserved Pecorino Sardoand Arugula

14 Carne Cruda with Anchovy and Garlic

18 Fried Artichokes Pangratatto

21 Fried Ipswich Clams with Sorrel Aioli

23 Fun with Geoduck

24 Geoduck Crudo with Fennel and Radish

24 Geoduck Scramble with Crme Frache

25 Manila Clams on the Half Shell with Fennel,Lemon, and Chiles

26 Sardine Crudo with Celery Hearts, Pine Nuts,and Lemon

28 Marinated Octopus

29 Pickled Vegetables

31 Sea Bass Crudo with Vanilla Oil, English Peas,and Mint

Contents


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Starches to Grow On:Gnocchi, Polenta, Risotto, and Farrotto

60 Basic Potato Gnocchi

63 Gnocchi with Morels and Fried Duck Egg

64 Ricotta Gnocchi with Beef Short Rib Ragu

66 Polenta Master Recipes

66 Soft Polenta

66 Firm Polenta

68 Sauted Chicken Livers with Mushrooms andOnions on Soft Polenta

69 Grilled Polenta with Heirloom Tomatoes andPounded Anchovy Sauce

70 Sauted Polenta with Hedgehog Mushroomsand Aged Provolone

71 A Trio of Spring Risottos

71 Spring Garlic Risotto

72 Ramp Risotto with Shaved Porcini

73 Artichoke Risotto

74 Clam Risotto with Lemon

76 Butternut Squash Risotto with Hazelnut Oil

77 Farrotto with English Peas and Morels

79 Duck Leg Farrotto with Pearl Onions andBloomsdale Spinach

Wheats Highest Calling: Pasta

84 Pasta Master Recipes

84 Egg Pasta

84 Semolina Pasta

89 Braised Rabbit Paws with Radiatore

90 Linguine with Shrimp

91 Cavatelli with Cuttlefish, Spring Onion, and Lemon

92 Fava Bean Agnolotti with Snails and Herbed Butter

95 Gnocchetti with Pancetta, Chanterelles, and Mint

96 Tagliarini with Totten Virginica Oysters, Prosecco,Chives, and Cream

97 Maloreddus with Squid, Tomato Sauce, and Lemon

98 Spaghetti with Garlic, Chile, and Sea Urchin

100 Trofie with Nettle Pesto

102 Pappardelle with Tomato Sauce and MarinatedPecorino Sardo

103 Bigoli with Grilled Sardines and Fennel

104 Duck Egg Ravioli with Ricotta and Swiss Chard

105 Switch-Hitt ing Clams with Ramps

106 Cannelloni with Braised Pork Cheeks andSweet Cicely

Something Foraged, Something Green:Salads, Vegetables, and Sides

110 Baby Beet Salad with Fresh Ricotta

111 Endive Salad with Creamy Meyer Lemon Vinaigrette

112 Seared Rabbit Loin with Frise and Pancetta

115 Lentils with Pancetta

116 Fried Cauliflower with Ham Hock

119 Lobster Mushrooms with Preserved Garlic, Parsley,and Oregano

120 Miners Lettuce, Fava Beans, English Peas, andSpring Garlic with White Balsamic Vinaigrette

121 Shaved Artichoke and Wild Watercress Salad

122 Blood Orange Salad with Shallot andTaggiasca Olives


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125 Rapini with Garlic, Chile, and Lemon

126 Delicata Squash with Chestnut Honey

127 Puntarelle with Anchovy, Garlic, and Parsley

Dressing128 Pickled Mackerel Salad with Watercress, Radish,

and Pistachio

131 Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Artichokes withGarlic and Thyme

132 Company Alligator Pear

135 Panzanella with Crispy Pigs Ear

137 Potato and Asparagus Salad with Home-CuredBacon and Egg

138 Thumbelina Carrots with Orange and Mint

140 Pheromone Salad (Shaved Porcini Salad)

141 Swiss Chard with Pine Nuts and Golden Raisins

Beasties of the Land . . .

144 Braised Pork Jowls with the Maligned Mlange

146 Home-Cured Bacon

148 Lamb Chops with Finger Favas

149 Venison Loin with Cipollini Agrodolce

150 Veal Sweetbreads with Parsley, Capers, and Lemon

152 Seared Duck Breast with Sugared Figs and Arugula

153 Braised Veal Cheeks with Grilled Ramps and Porcini

155 Skillet-Roasted Rabbit with Pancetta-BastedFingerlings

156 Roast Quail Stuffed with Pancetta, Lacinato Kale,and Sage

158 Pan-Roasted Squab with Spring Garlic Compote

159 Party Meats

159 Party Tripe on Soft Polenta

160 Zatar-Rubbed Leg of Goat with Fresh Chickpeas,Spring Onion, and Sorrel

162 Grilled T-Bone with Garlic, Lemon, and

Controne Beans

163 Italian Tacos

. . . and Sea

167 Grilled Sardines with Baby Fennel, Capers, and

Taggiasca Olives

168 Mob-Hit Squid

170 Fluke with Radish and Citrus Relish

171 Ode to the Northwest (with a Nod to Cincinnati)

172 Roasted Skate Wing with Brown Butter and

Potatoes

174 Black Bass with Thyme, Lemon, and Garlic

175 Poached Black Bass with Spring Garlic and Mint

177 Seared Scallops with Chanterelles and Parsnip andPear Pure

178 Steamed Clams with Guanciale and Sorrel

179 Prosciutto-Wrapped Soft-Shell Crab Cigars withShaved Radish and Arugula Salad

181 Grilled Mackerel with Crispy Potatoes and Caperand Preserved Lemon Sauce


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Cheese for the Civilizedand Desserts for the Rest of You

184 Goat Cheese with Chestnut Honey and

Hazelnut Dust

185 Ginepro with Gin-Soaked Pear

186 La Tur with Oven-Roasted Tomato Petals

189 Lemon Verbena Panna Cotta with Poached Peaches

190 Robiola with Gooseberry Compote

191 Cacio Faenum with Baked Apricot and Almond Pure

192 Rhubarb Soup with Prosecco

193 Roasted Figs with Chocolate-Espresso Ganache

194 Chocolate Ice Cream

195 Toasted Walnut Ice Cream

196 PearStar Anise Ice Cream

197 Melon Sorbet

199 CampariBlood Orange Sorbet

200 Blueberry-Basil Sorbet201 Espresso Granita with Grappa Cream

202 Zabaglione with Mixed Berries

203 Cardamom Sabls

204 Pie Cookies

205 Pine Nut Crumbles

206 Almond Cake with Bay-Poached Queen AnneCherries

208 Chocolate Pumpkin Tart

Building Blocks:Condiments, Sauces, and Staples

216 Basic Tomato Sauce

217 Mayonnaise

217 Preserved Garlic

218 Preserved Lemons

218 Preserved Pecorino Sardo

219 Salsa Verde

220 Garlic Breadcrumbs

220 Basic Chickpeas

222 Index

228 Measurement Conversion Charts


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Acknowledgments

I owe everything to my dog, Cleo (see picture belowcute, huh?) Afer Cleo, there are probably a ew people I

should thank, starting with my wie, Angela, who helps me keep everything in perspective. I love you. I would

like to thank my mother and my ather, who set great examples or me growing up and would probably agree

that Im not quite there yet, and my brothers who show me that the hours and work I put in arent much by

comparison.

Tere are so many amazingly talented people that I work with that I can only say you inspire me and make

me look good on a daily basis. Tank you. Eli Dahlin, who helped create the wonderul desserts contained in

this book, and Union and its crew that gave me my start have my deepest appreciation. Many thanks to Old

John, who taught me a lot and helped me grow up. Tough i you dont stop using so much salt I wont come

over or dinner anymore.

o Aaron, Melissa, and the rest o the en Speed crew, thank you or being incredible to work with and

making this book happen. Geoff, you took the book to another level with abulous photographs.

Kirsten Graham, my publicist, knows Im not always pleasant to work with and getting recipes back on timeis not my strength. Tank you or putting up with me since the beginning and saving my ass time and again.

For Lam, my co-writer, it has been a distinct pleasure getting to know you and work with you. Hopeully this

is just the start o many projects together.

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Introduction

Okay, this is my ideal dinner.Tere are two o youcozy, but not alone. Laughter and music floataround you, as does the muted percussion o silver on porcelain. Teres that sof light that makes everyone

look better and a bott le o wine on the table. It doesnt have to be pricey, just good. Out come a series o plates,

not too small, not too big, but shareable. I m not talk ing about doling out litt le bits onto dainty saucersmore

like a bowl o handmade pasta set down between you with two orks sticking out o the steam. Or maybe itsan impeccably resh crudo, the ocean flavors clean and bright, that preps you or the grilled zucchini salad, or

maybe a tangle o white beans and grilled shrimp. What ollows is a perectly roasted quail or resh branzino

you unapologetically suck off the bones.

Te goal is a series o tastes. Each o you gets to try a little bit o everything, eating just enough o each

dish so you eel sated, but not so much that it dulls your enthusiasm or the next dish issuing rom the kitchen,

whether thats a sof-boiled egg with anchovy mayonnaise or bee carpaccio or maybe some orecchiette with

grilled octopus and aggiasca olives. Tis is the way I cook in my restaurants, and this is the way I eat. Tis is

the way I hope you will eat, too.

When I opened each o my Seattle restaurants, I tried or places that were sexy without being slick; I

wanted intimate spaces that glow with sof wood and copper, or that gather strangers at a thick communal table,

la tavolta. Overall, I wanted to reinorce the idea that ood shouldnt be ormal or ussy, just ocused. And,

more than that, that eating is an art more walk-up than doorman, more warehouse than gallery. Its got to be

good, but its also got to be un.

Youll find very ew lengthy ingredient lists inside this book, no oams or caul-at wrappers or our-page

spreads. You will find recipes meant to be both modern and seductive, every recipe designed or a shareable

meal that would be at place at my ideal dinner table. Id like you to think just as much about the method as

the meals, and make different choices about not only what you eat, but how you eat. Instead o doubling the

recipes or bigger parties and amilies, Id like you to consider adding another dish or two instead, allowing each

o your guests even more delectable orkuls, scoops, nibbles, and tastes. Tere is joy and abundance inherent in

thoughtul ood done rightyou dont need to douse it with truffle oil to make ood special. Incredible, pristine

ingredients suffer rom being overly dolled up, but i there were no magic in how we put ingredients together,

then Id be out o a job. Lets get back not to the ood we used to eatthis isnt nonnas Italianbut to a more

time-tested philosophy o howwe eat, allowing us to create and share ood at its best, eating the way we were

meant to, with each other.

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It was during my first stint in a restaurant kitchenthere among the misfits and mad geniuses, most o

them unfit or human company and thereore well suited to restaurant hoursthat I elt, or the first time, like

I was truly among my people. I worked my way up the line, tasting and learning along the way rom people with

incredible skills and artistry. In those first jobs I did very precise French cooking, the type o cooking that I, and

many others, thought to be the height o culinary artistry. Im still glad or those years; they taught me incred-

ible ocus and important skills in prep and plating. But it was with Italian-inflected cuisine that I elt the same

jolt that I did during my first restaurant job. I ell in love, not only with the ood itselresh, rusticbut also

with the philosophy behind the ood. Everything seemed meant to share, meant to inspire joy and un. It was

ood that was meant to eed the spirit as much as the body.

And that is how I shape my idea o how a meal should go. Te arc o the meal should build in terms o

weight, body, flavor, and texture instead o bui lding up the portion size. Tat is why you wont find the recipes

in this book organized according to a traditional layout: appetizers, pastas, entres, and desserts. In place o

that traditional ramework, the book organizes recipes into broad categories so that you can customize the

dishes and build the flavor in your own perect meal. Along with the arc o flavor, I recommend employing a

little common sense; i you are serving a heavier or more elaborate meat dish, or example, dont preace it with

three courses. You want people to eel happy and satisfied, not stuffed.

Just like a dinner guest, I want you to read this book and eel happy and satisfied, inspired but not over-

whelmed. Like you, I love cookbooks; I own more than a ew mysel. For years, afer every shif, I pored through

recipes, a certain ew cookbooks at my bedside. Its that cookbookthe one you read at night like a novel, the one

that inspires you but doesnt take itsel too seriouslythat I endeavored to write or you. I consider it a privilege

to make ood or people, and I make an effort to do it with enthusiasm and imagination every time I step into

the kitchen. I you take that attitude with you into your own kitchen (and maybe this book, too), its pretty hard

to go wrong.

2 ETHAN STOWELLS NEW ITALIAN KITCHEN


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Clam Risotto with Lemon

SERVES 4

Tis is a wonderful winter dishfresh and simple

with nothing to get between you and pure clam flavor.

Steaming the clams first in a little white wine, then using

that liquid in place of broth, infuses the rice with a briny

essence that totally sings. Because of the star ingredient,

you shouldnt need to use much salt in the dish, and cheesehere would be a no-no. A little butter at the end provides

the perfect touch of richness, while a bit of lemon zest

accents the clams perfectly.

4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus morefor drizzling

6 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

4 pounds Manila clams

1 cup white wine

1 small red onion, minced

1 cup carnaroli rice

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 lemon (preferably organic)

In a high-sided saut pan or Dutch oven over medium-highheat, heat 2 tablespoons o the olive oil. Add 3 cloves o

the garlic and saut or a minute or two, until sof. Add the

clams and wine, cover and steam just until the clams open,

2 to 3 minutes.

Discard any clams that ail to open. Strain and reserve the

liquid. You should have about 4 cups liquid; i you dont,

add water to make 4 cups. Place in a saucepan and set over

low heat until hot. Put the clams in a heatproo container

and place in the rerigerator until cool enough to handle.

For easy eating, shuck the clams when cool. Discard the

shells and reserve the meat. For a ancier presentation, leave

the clams as is.

In a large saut pan over medium heat, heat the remaining

2 tablespoons olive oil. Saut the remaining 3 cloves garlic

and the onion until sof but not browned, 2 to 3 minutes.

Add the rice and stir to coat. Add the reserved liquid,

1 cup at a time, stirring until the liquid is absorbed, 5 to

6 minutes, beore the next addition. When finished, the

rice should be toothsome but not crunchy. I necessary,

continue to add liquid to achieve the desired consistency.

When the rice is just al dente, remove the pan rom the heat

and old in the clams and butter until the risotto is glossy.

Divide the risotto among 4 warm plates. Drizzle each plate

with olive oil. Grate lemon zest over the top o each plate

and serve.



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Zatar-Rubbed Leg of Goat with Fresh Chickpeas,

Spring Onion, and Sorrel

SERVES 6 TO 8

In this pure celebration of spring, Middle Eastern

spices add warmth and depth to tender goat, while the

seasons first tender offeringsfresh chickpeas, slender

spring onions, tart sorrelmake a fabulous accompani-

ment. Letting the sauted vegetables cool before adding

the sorrel allows it to keep its vibrant color, and it alsomakes this relaxed, do-ahead party food. Prepare the side

while the goat rests and be prepared to covet the leovers.

Fresh chickpeas look like abbreviated little fava

beans in the pod, and, like favas, they require a two-step

shelling process to get to the little green gems inside. If

you can find them, its worth every minute of preparation.

Fresh chickpeas are sweet and tender, with only a hint

of the nuttiness that marks their flavor when dried. Te

spices can be found in Middle Eastern markets or online.

GOAT

2 teaspoons ground sumac

2 teaspoons ground coriander

2 teaspoons ground fennel seed

2 teaspoons ground Aleppo pepper

1 whole leg of goat, bone in (about 41/2pounds)

CHICKPEAS

Kosher salt

1 pound fresh chickpeas, in the shell

4 spring onions

10 sprigs sorrel, washed well

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Preheat the oven to 375F.

To prepare the goat, combine the sumac, coriander, fennel,

and Aleppo in a small bowl and rub into the goat leg, being

sure to cover the entire surface of the meat with the spice

rub. Roast the goat until the internal temperature reaches130F on a meat thermometer, about 1 hour. Remove the

goat from the oven and allow to rest for at least 30 minutes

before carving.

To make the chickpeas, bring a pot of salted water to a

rapid boil and prepare an ice-water bath.

Remove the chickpeas from their outer shells. Add the

chickpeas to the boiling water and blanch for 5 to 6 min-

utes, or until just tender and the outer skin is loose. Trans-

fer immediately to the ice bath to cool. Drain. Carefully rub

off their skins, trying to keep the chickpeas whole as you

do. You should end up with a generous cup of chickpeas.

Peel and trim the onions, then cut crosswise into 1/4-inch

slices. Roughly chop the sorrel.

Heat the olive oil in a saut pan over medium heat. Add the

onions and cook gently over medium-low heat until tender,

8 to 10 minutes. Season with salt, then fold in the chickpeas

and remove from the heat. Transfer the mixture to a bowl

to cool before adding the sorrel. Check the seasoning. is

dish is best served at room temperature.



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161Beasties of the Land . . .


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CampariBlood Orange Sorbet

MAKES 5 TO 6 CUPS

Campari and soda is one of my favorite aperitifs.

Not only is Campari a brilliant vermilion that looks stun-

ning in the glass, but also the liquors bitter edge whets

the appetite for the dishes to come. ransformed into a

gorgeous, not-too-sweet sorbet, Campari is equally at

home finishing a meal. (Although this sorbet would alsomake a nice refresher between courses if you were feeling

fancy.) Te addition of sweet, ruby-hued blood orange

juice makes this a perfect dessert for midwinter when

summers fruits are still months away. Before you freeze

your sorbet, I recommend you pour a little into a highball

glass and add some ice and gin. It makes the wait so much

more enjoyable.

ORANGE SIMPLE SYRUP

1 cup sugar

1 cup water

8 strips orange zest removed with a vegetable peeler

2 pounds blood oranges (should yield about 2 cups juice)

1/4to 1/2cup Campari, to taste

To make the simple syrup, combine the sugar, water, and

orange zest in a saucepan over medium heat and heat until

the sugar dissolves, stirring occasionally. Remove from the

heat and allow to cool. Remove the zest before using.

Cut the oranges in half. Using a juicer or a reamer, juicethe oranges and transfer the juice to a nonreactive bowl.

Add the Campari. Add the simple syrup to taste, beginning

with 1/3cup and adding additional tablespoons to taste. If

you like, reserve some of the juice for your cocktail. Cover

the rest of the juice and chill in the refrigerator until cold.

Pour into an ice cream maker and freeze according to the

manufacturers directions.

201Cheeses for the Civilized and Desserts for the Rest of You


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Ethan Stowell's New Italian Kitchen

visit one of these online retailers:
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recipes from ethan stowell's new italian kitchen by ethan stowell and leslie miller

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