QANAT, SAQQAJJA AND ROMAN AQUEDUCT SYSTEM AT RABAT, MALTA

Fr. Eugene Paul Tcuma O.F.M. Conv.

Water was and always will remain mankind's most vital element. Man's advancement from a wandering group of people to a settled farmer community, tribe, people, then civilization depended on the abundant availability of this substance. Until the time that man could bring water to the most arid and inhospitable lands, his progress was hampered. One may dare to travel through such lands, but habitation and control of a region or an immense space of land would only come through engineering means to bring water to these places. Before the time of well digging, damming of watercourses, building of aqueducts, mankind depended completely on natural watercourses and natural oasis for survival. Homesteads, farms, towns and villages developed along these natural courses. Rome itself would not have channelled water until the year 343 B.C.1

It would take millennia before civilizations would implement major projects to bring water to create fertile arable land and cities within desert and tundra regions. The deep wells of antiquity (such as Jericho)-'. with stairway running along the vertical shafts, together with deep underground cisterns meant to collect run off water, were the oldest attempts at building a fortified town at a vital but arid landmark. Still the Qanat water system would prove to be the most important development, bringing water to faraway inhospitable lands and arid deserts.

The placing of altars, shrines, niches and even temples dedicated to particular gods, goddesses or nymphs close to or even surrounding a fountain site, go a long way to show with what esteem this life-giving substance was revered and fear of its absence appeased ' .

1 Sesto Giulin Froniino. Git Aqttedotti A Roma: teslo Latino a fronte, Lecce 1997, 25. (Dt aquaeduetu tapis Romae, 1.4 (98 A.D.)

2 H. Yohanan, The Arehaeotngy of the Land of Israel. SCM Press, London 1982. 23-34.

3 Filippo Coarelli. Roma (Guide Aieheologiche) 2002. 36-41.

7f- Eugeiw Paul Tcuma

Q a n a t 1 In Arabic and Spanish the technical term QA NAT denotes the water system as a whole, madeup of underground or surface channels, and associated shafts. On the other hand the term QATTARA. katiaru. or lutttara. as used in Spain and North Africa, describes the tunnel (usually 10-12 m. in length) that extends from one shaft to the other. The process by which water is acquired in this system is practically that of "sweating" or oozing out of liquid from the water containing bedrock. Some sites around Malta still bear the toponomy of Qasutrti, one of these sites is located close to Is-Simhliju. limits of Dingli.

Possibly the oldest type of water channelling in the world, originating and evolving in the Middle East during the millennia Before Christ (B.C.) would be used extensively in the Near East during the 9'" and 8'" century B .C . ' . Phoenicians and Greeks spread its use to the Western Mediterranean through settlement and colonization. Etruscans, on the other hand, were making use of similar water systems (cuniculi)" in Central Italy by the 5lh and 4,h Century B.C. The Romans, who inherited most of their water system knowledge from the Etruscans and Greeks, would spread it throughout the Empire with considerable standardization and upgrading from the 2"1' Century B.C. o n w a r d s 7 . Works like Vitruvius" and Frontinus." would then standardize the architectural and engineering elements related to water systems for the coming centuries.

4 B. P. Maldonado. Traiado de Arqttitectura Hisparwmusulmana. I. Aqua (aljilws - puentes - qanats - acueductos -jardines - desagues de cittdudes yfortalezas - ruedm hidraidicas - banos - corachas) Madrid 1990, 185-187.

5 A. T. Hodge, Roman Aqueducts & Water Supply. Duckworth. Liverpool 2002. 20-24. 6 A.T.Hodge.2002.45-47.

7 S.G.Fromtno. 1997.25. "...per quattrocenloquarantuna anni dalla fnndazione delta lorn citta, I Romani si

contentartmo dell' aequa t he uttingevana dal Tet ere. dai pozzi a dalle fimti. II ricordo di queste ultimee'anctira vivo e sicoaitervacan veneraziane.... [De uqueductu urbis Rnmae. 1.4)

8 Vitruvius, The Ten Books on Architecture, trans Morris Hieky Morgan (1914). Dover Publications Inc.. New York I960.

9 S. G. Frontinius. De aqueductu urbis Ramae. 98 A.D.

Qanat. Saqqajju and Roman Aqueduct System 77

The origin of the Qaiutt can be related to early attempts at mining during the Bronze and Iron Age. Digging vertical shafts into the ground caused ground water to seep down to the bottom of the shaft and within a few days, or even hours, the shaft would fill with water. These observations would have convinced the diggers/miners that a secondary horizontal tunnel, dug at the outset, would have relieved the mining shafts from water accumula t ion and the dangerous fumes that tend to form underg round . Digging the mine from a horizontal point, with vertical shafts at regular intervals proved to be the most successful scheme.

Water-containing layers of rock would be cut through, producing permanent or seasonal springs that would ooze out along the channels. Miners would place their huts or small settlement at the entrance to the mine. Small settlements and arable land developed close to the water source. At the point where the Qctnat would come to the surface oasis (Maltese Cnien) or fountains (Maltese: Ghttjn) would evolve.

The largest known Qtmm project that is still largely preserved comes from the period of the Persian Empire, at Persepolis. It covers a long distance from the mountains to the plains of Iran and is made up of hundreds of vertical circular shafts. Il created the fertile land that would make Persepolis the capital of the Persian Empire, until the destruction of the city by Alexander the Great.

A point to draw regarding the shafts in the qanat system is that they are not meant to serve as wells, but as ventilation and service access shafts should the need arise to clear cave-ins and the like. The function of the channel is primarily that of carrying the water to the exit or fountain, cutting through the water table, that may be located miles away.

Shafts in Persia and the Middle East are mainly circular, unlike the square or rectangular shafts developed by the Etruscans and the Romans. The Arab Period shafts, dating from the 8"' Century A.D.. located in North Africa and Spain are also circular, except where re-adaptations of pre-existing water systems are not found. It may be deduced that circular shafts are preferred since they are easier and cheaper to dig. Material extracted in the process is abandoned around the wellhead. Most sites may still be identified through aerial photography from the nibble mounds collected around the shafts.

Typically the qanat 's horizontal channel/tunnel goes downhill at a very steep gradient, unlike the Roman water system thai preserves a shallower and more level gradient. For this reason it suffers less front sinter deposits but may suffer more through

10 Vitruvius. 1960.245. (Vit. VI. 12-1.1)

Eugene Paul Tcuma

erosion due to the fast running water. Water moves down the system by gravity and air pressure derived from the numerous shafts. The shafts in a ( J " " " ' are placed around 10 to 12 metres apart.

Digging out the qanat would have demanded that work starts on a horizontal shaft, with one or more vertical shafts being dug contemporaneously at regular intervals, as the tunnel progresses" . Once the tunneling was finished, the floor level Off tbC qanat would be modified to give the necessary gradient so as to allow the water to flow smoothly through the whole system.

S a q q a j j u "

The term Saqqajja in the Maltese archipelago. SIQAJA. Saqttiya. seqqava. sikeja. saquya. yazaqaya in Spain, or Siqttya or Siqiyat in North Africa have closely related meanings that may refer according to the century or the regions it is used i n " . In Spain, during the period of the Caliphs, the term is mostly employed as synonymous to QANAT". A system of underground or surface channels, that at times arc related to the purification rites within a Mezquilu (or mosque) precinct. Early on Qanat and/ or Saqqajja are related to the surface channels that ate located within the courtyards of the mosque. This water How was meant for ritual purifications and costing of the congregation (GemyTut) space.

In North Africa the term SEQIJA eventually came to mean a fountain. This fountain is quite particular for it is the town or village's East-facing water source, often located next to the main gate or entrance. Even though the term becomes specific, by implication a fountain always has a qanat supplying it with water.

In this context the site of \l-Telgha tas-Saqqajja. at Rabat would qualify both as a fountain: actually it is facing south-southeast, located next to one of the entrances going into the town of Rabat, and also confirms the existence of the Qanat. which is providing it with water.

11 A. T.Hodge. 2002. 20ft 12 B. P. Maldonado. 1990. 187-189. 13 ibid. 1990.185-248. 14 ibid. 188. "el prohlema lextengrajiio de las voces Qanat y Siqaya en la edad Media "

(Janal. Saqqajja and Roman Aqueduct System 79

In Maltese we should also note the use of Tas-SAQWI, relating to a type of agriculture watering practice, making use of open surface channels, and such place names as SW/EQi.

Roman Aqueduct System

Usually we tend to ascribe the term Roman Aqueduct to those massive arched structures that still extend over deep gorges or valleys throughout Europe, and are the pride of a bygone age. This misconception, based on what we see. is still very common. An in-depth study" has confirmed that a good percentage of the Roman Aqueduct system tends to be located underground: most of the time hew n into live rock or built up with masonry and poz/oianu. A substantial percentage of water from these aqueducts is still supplying the prcseni needs of some of the major towns and cities in Italy.

The first experience with aqueducts lor the Romans must have been the colossal Etruscan drainage projects. Known as funiculi, these are dated to the 4"1 Century B.C.. they are found concentrated to the North of Rome itself, especially VWi. The tunnel is usually 1.75m. high and 0.50 m w i d e ' \ The shafts are located between 33-34m apart, revealing a very high degree of engineering. The vertical shafts arc rectangular and average 1.2/1.6m by ().55/0.75m. The depth of a shaft is usually 6m, but is known to reach 30m Their gradient varies from 1.2% or I2m/km, to 2.6%. or 26m/km. This is considerably steeper than the gradient within the Roman aqueduct system.

Rather than channelling water to towns and villages. Etruscan funiculi were used to drain mainly marshlands or lakes, creating arable land in the process. The waters would be diverted into other valleys and natural water systems. The longest known Etruscan Period channel of this type is 4 .5km."

The Roman aqueduct system is more complex and multi functional. The system was employed both as drainage systems (to drain lakes or marshland areas), but primarily as collectors of spring and ground water to be conveyed through a complex of channels, tunnels, aqueducts, reservoirs, water towers, from numerous distant

15 G.Bodm-l.Riem-P.ZsintnMi^Ulilitas Necessariu: Sistemi idraulici neir Italia rtmiana. aeuradi I. Rieri. Milano 1994.

16 A. T. Hodge. 2002. 24.

17 A.T.Hodge.2002.45^17.

sc. Eugene Paul Teuma

regions to established towns, cities, villas and estates. One of the most magnificent and best preserved of these systems is the Aqua Augusta aqueduct system that served, amoungst others, the towns of Hercutaneum and Pompeii up to 79 A.D. The monumental Piscina Mirabilis reservoir, served the Roman fleet stationed at Misenum. to the North of the Bay of Neapolis.

When compared to other water systems the Roman aqueducts may he considerably longer, achieving distances of hundreds of kilometers. The gradient is gentler, and practically level. This helps slow down the wear and tear of the channel base, but encourages the formation of sinter1". especially where water contains a particularly high concentration of lime and debris.

The main channel or specus could be 1.65/1.80m. high by 0.65/0.85m wide. The vertical shafts or puteus/putei. spaced out at 20 to 30m.. could either be square (1.45m by 1,45m) or rectangular (1.70m by 0.65m). Fool holes hewn into shaft wall allowed access and exit for servicing. These shafts could reach considerable depth, at times deeper than 30 or 40 m.

Engineers making use of different implements, including a grama, would have initiated the project w ith a thorough survey of the area. A T-board I chorobates) would then give out the exact levels on a steep gradient. Shafts would be measured out and dinging would begin simultaneously on as many shafts as possible. A type of measure (possibly made of rope/hemp) would guarantee that all shafts reached the desired depth. Horizontal tunnels would then be hewn out simultaneously.The greater distance of the shafts, than those to be found on a qanat site, would show that there was a greater degree of certainty through standardized engineering.

Converging traces of picks or other implements confirm this hypothesis1 ' ' . In a number of cases the rock still preserves traces of mistakes, abortions and corrections during the same work. The sound of the picks and listening to the voices of co-workers were the only means of orientation in these narrow and low tunnels systems. The tunnels averaged 1.70 m. in height and 0.60m. in width.

18 Sinter is practically lime scale forming along the tunnel walls. Comparable to fat build up blocking arteries, this lime scale eventually clogged and obstructed a good number of the water systems. Sinter is quarried in certain pans of Northern Europe, most of the time recovered from deposits within Roman tunnel systems.

19 A.T.Hodge.2002.208-210.

Qanat. Saqqajja and Roman Aqueduct System 8)

Roman aqueducts are not only related to channelling of water through galleries but also to a whole process that would pass from the settling tanks, reservoirs and the castellum at the town's entrance. The castellum divided the flow through three separate reservoirs that would serve respectively public fountains, bathhouses, and private property; We need not go into great detail here, our main interest remains the underground channels and tunnels that helped in the collection and distribution of water.

This system had one major flaw: water would reach the town, city or fortified perimeter so long as the aqueducts functioned properly. and were not impeded in any way by natural catastrophy or tampered with by human intervention. Within hours or days of a major disaster the water flow would stop completely. For this eventuality the Romans would have made sure to stock enough water within large reservoirs and connected well systems. These would normally serve the military rather than the civil needs. Water to bath complexes, private homes and estates, controlled from the castellum. would be shuttered down, leaving only the necessary water being pumped to public fountains, Unl'ortunetly these would dry up as soon as the supplying reservoirs ran out of water. The military would have access to a permanent supply of water through deeply dug. and connected wells.

The Site

Running under Rabat at a depth varying between 3m to 12 m.due to the steep natural gradient of the hillside going to Rabat Centre towards Gheriexem. this system is made up of numerous (16 or more) rectangular shafts ( l .75m. by 0.65m) iputei) distanced at some I4.O0m/25.O0m. from each other. The tunnel lot specus) averages 1.65/1.70m. in height by 0.65/0.71 m. width. The gradient is very light.

The main sections investigated and plotted are two. One section, measuring c.500m. is accessible from a site immediately next to St. Paul's Church, from within an ancient cistern turned into acharnel house.next to St. Mary Magdalene Chapel'-1". This system

20 Measurements of water system from Tarri l-Ahmar street to St. Paul's Church: measurements taken in September 1995.1abbreviations: circ. = circumference: w. = width: h. = height: ws. = water source - 2.2 - [5.6] - 33 JO [1.1 x 0.65 w.| - 26.00 - [2 J ] - 14 JO - [0.50+1.85+0.65] - 14.72 - [2.8 x 6.00 h.| - 12.18 - [55 circ.] - 2J+1J+I4.65 - [6.14 circ.] - 14.40 -[4.4circ .[- 14.80-1?] - '.'-[0.7B+I.684O.78 x 10.00 h.] - 14.85+3.3+3 J - [1,88] -42.55 (gate?) - [0.65+1.75+0,65] - 14.00- [0.86+1.88+0.86] - 14.20- [0.85+2.640.85] -18.10 x 0.70 w . - 11.65| -24.25 - [4.8 circ. x 12h.(ws.)] - 42.40 (gate?) x 0.70 w.-[blocked arch way]

82 Eugene Paul Teuma

had at some time or other, been modified and redirected to the Ghcricxcm fountain. The perennial spring within this tunnel moves in the general direction of North West, and runs parallel to the Roman Ditch; preserved under the Santa Rita Road, at a constant distance of 15.45m.

The other part of tunnel investigated is situated under Santii Spirtu Hospital (now The National Archives): this has been investigated up to c.fiOnr1. The general direction of this tunnel is moving towards the North East. This site has been much ruined through the hewing of a Second World War shelter and underground hospital. Still discernible elements of the original water system are present in the blocked up wells that are regularly spaced out (c. 9/12m. apart) within the confines of the main hospital hal l . Presently the site is inaccessible due to drainage infiltrations.

The channel next to St. Paul's Church is linked directly to the Santtt Spina Hospital s i t e - . The tunnels and shafts enclose a large rectangular area that corresponds to the fortified perimeter of the old Roman Melita. It has been discovered that the rectangular shafts run parallel to the Roman Ditch that still exists between St. Paul 's Parish Church and the formerTeuma-Castelletti residence. The preserved Roman Ditch section behind St. Paul 's Church measures 30metres in width by 2 metres in height.

The distance of 15.45m. has been measured for one set of the wellheads, from the ditch's edge. These are located next to St. Mary Magdalene underground Chapel. Moreover surviving traces of fortifications from the Roman period have been measured at 41 m. from the ditch's edge. The thickness of the surviving fortification elements measure between 4.7m up to 5.10m and are embedded within the precinct of St. Francis Friary, at ta' Segiu. The same distance of 41m has been measured between the octagonal base of the monument dedicated to St. Paul the Apostle, and the ditch's edge (against St. Paul's Church wall). The monument, built up of reused stones that

21 Measurements of water system from St. Francis Friary to Saqqajja Square: measurements taken September 1995 - 10 JO - [6.4 ]-20.50-(4.051 - 10JO [4.4| - 10.65 - [4 J ] - 11.2 - [?] - 11.60 -[ 4 . 4 ] - 9 . 9 5 - [ 7 ] - ( ? ) - | > ]

22 During the earlier part of 1990s, a number of individuals walked down the tunnels from Santa Spirtu exiting next to St. Paul's statue. They t ame up through Santa Maria Magdalene Chapel, next to the large statue of St. Paul. They confirm encountering a deep well at some point of their walk.

Qanai, Saqqajja und Roman Aqueduct System 83

still preserved vivid red and green stucco colouring, has unfortunetly been redecorated recently. These archaeological vestiges have been destroyed.

The monument site would correspond to one of the gatehouse towers at the main city gate.alrcady mentioned in this area by both Abela (1647) and by Ciantar (1740)" . The particular octagonal tower feature corresponds to 3"' up to 9* Century fortification huilding techniques. Two very detailed and informative sketches by Schellinkx. drawn in 1664. portray the immediate area next to St. Paul 's Church '4 . They depict a huge rubble mound la tell), with a "sacred well", and entrances to underground features located close by. The ground is strewn with rubble and antique relics, including architectural features of d e a r Roman provenance, showing that the area immediately next to the ditch was uncultivated and uninhabited during the 17"' Century.

Tradition-wise the mound is interpreted as the location from were St. Paul the Apostle preached and converted the islanders, the "sacred well" was believed to have been used for baptizing the converts. Abela also recognizes the area as being next to the Forum.

Interpreting the sketches we find that the monument now occupies the mound site, whi le the "sacred well" must be related to the water system under investigation". The underground entrance, with the cross and inscribed slah on top must be the opening leading to St. Mary Magdalene's Chapel.

2.1 In both works there is mention of the Roman perimeter wall and ditch at Rabat. Abela slates that there were two main gates, one located next to St. Catald Chapel, the other in line with St. Francis Friary.In his map of Melita Abela places the main gates near St. Ctaatd Chapel and St. Paul's Church. Ciantar says there were four, one in line with Ta' Qasha Chapel, the others in line with St. Catald. another in line with St. Paul's Church, and the fourth through St. Francis Friary. Abela and Ciantar mention cart ruts on the rpeky surface next to St. Catald.

When examining the tunnel's two sites, corresponding lo Abela's map premise, were discovered, the well shafts that were dug further apart, circa 45.54m. and42.45m respec-tively, rather than !8-20m. On the other hand a postern gate, facing South Fast, is still embedded within the walls of St. Francis Friary, where Ciantar states he saw cart-rut features going into the wall of the friary.

24 T. Frellcr. St. Paul's Grotto and its Visitors: Pilgrims. Knights, Scholars and Sceptics Valletta 1995. 128-129.

25 J. Tonna. Centre and Axis: symbolic meaning in the precincts of the Parish Church of St. Paul, Rabat, in St. Paul's Grotto. Church and Museum, ed. by Canon John Azzopardi Malta 1990.80-84.

84 Eugene Paul Teuma

Surviving underground elements in the immediate area of St. Paul's Chureh most probably date to the late Roman or Byzantine Periods. One of these is the so-called Chapel of St. Marv Magdalena. a deep and originally circular bell shaped feature with a large central opening in the ceiling, now occupied by a small lantem. The site was used as a charnel house up to 1634. when it was cleaned up and turned into a chapel* The elaborate workings of this feature would prove, under closer observation, to be something other than a water cistern. It may be a ROBUR . or immense gram silo.usually located on agricultural estates, but here placed at the entrance to the city.

The less worthy function that a Robur served for was that of doubling up as a prison and a place where death sentences were enacted. Prisoners would be thrown into the deep silo and left to die. It could be that the poisonous fumes emitted by the stored grain also played a part in their death. The closeness of the site to St. Paul s grotto, the traditional location of St. Paul's confinement during his three-month sojourn in Malta is remarkable. This ROBUR most probably is related to the massive fortification project that took place at Melita during the 4* or 5* Century A.D.. when a considerable part of the perimeter of the original Roman town was divided by a wide ditch (30 meters wide), and the building of massive walls (5.10 meters thick) and tower fortifications. This compares to what was happening throughout the Roman Empire during the 4th and 5* Century. when practically all towns and cities, including Rome itself, were provided with defences, in most cases reducing by half the perimeter of the original t o w n " .

Contemporary to the Robur. and located close by. one finds two large rock-hewn chambers, measuring 11 20m by 5.76m. and 11.73 m. by 4.63m. respectively. For hundreds of years they were used us chamel houses, as the massive collection of bones and other artifacts collected within would show. but their "construction" design would indicate possible Roman cisterns. They arc hewn out of the live rock, leaving a thick layer of rock cover (1 J /1 .8m.) to serve as ceiling. These arc the last vestiges Of a magnificent rock hewn reservoir complex that existed in the space left in between the city walls and the dileh. This is also typically Roman engineering; cisterns and wells were property of the state and were thus controlled by the state. A similar type of distribution may be observed in Byzantine Period Cositiniinopte21.

26 G. Azzopardi. Iz-Zmtier jew Cimiterju to San Pawl fir-Rabat, in ll-Festa Taghnu. Malta 1984.19-23.

27 F. Coarelli. 2002. 20-35 / Richard Krautheimer. Rome. Profile of a City. 312-1308. 1980.

28 Richard Krautheimer. Early Christian and Byzantine Architecture. 1986.69-73.

Qanat. Saqqajja and Roman Aqueduct System 85

These cisterns were turned into chamel houses and chapels during the medieval period. Twenty-one (21) such features are recorded. Practically all access to these underground features, with the exception of the three mentioned, were filled in and buried w hen the new road (Santa Rita) was built within the original Roman ditch in the 1960s?'*'.

The Roman town ditch, is still traceable starting from the formerThcuma Caste)letti residence, on Saqqajja street, through St. Paul's Church (built within it) to Ta ' Qasha Chapel, on Santa Rita street. The ditch turns at right angles through it-Torn l-Ahmur street, where a Medieval tower, known as It-Torri l-Ahntar. with possible Punic/ Roman integrations at the base , was illegally demolished to make way for a supermarket. Originally the lower "belonged" to the Gollchcr family. Surviving elements ol the Roman wall can be seen going down from Saqqajja in the direction of Valletta. A new iron gate encloses this still undeveloped "private" property, while another surviving section, next to an Enematia sub-station, has been closed off and turned into a private path.

A rock-hewn stairway, to one side of the charnel house, leads deep into the ground creating a link between the cistern and the deep tunnels. This is one of the access points at present. Tunnelling during the Second World War to create deep air raid shelters has linked these two cisterns to the deeper water channel and aqueduct.

The tunnel is quite narrow and shallow (averaging 1.65m. by 0.70m.) demanding one to crouch to be able to walk through. A perennial stream runs through within a central stone water channel, possibly a modification made during the Knights' Period. The water that seeps from the rock face moves towards Gheriexem fountain.

A very particular and informative set of features encountered within the tunnels, at the point where they come to a well shaft are circular tunnels running from behind the area of the shaft. Though baffling during earlier visits, these unwarranted and unnecessary channels were to prove an important element in interpreting and dating the w ater system.

The late Fr. PacifieoZammitol ' the Franciscan grey friars told me of a l7*GenttB> manuscript (or Cronaca) that made mention of the two wells, one located within the friary cloister, and the other in the front garden (overlooking la' Saura hospice) . Despite the fact thai only one of the two wells had channelling to receive rainwater, both wells were filled to the same level. This made it abundantly clear that both wells were joined together by a channel (or spiera).

29 G. Azzopardi. 1984. 19-23.

86 Eugene Paul Tcuma

Yet another friar. Fr. Sebastian Scicluna O.F.M.Conv. told how one day. soon after the beginning of WWII, he was startled to hear voices coming up from the cloister well. Il resulted that workers from Sanlu Spiritu Hospital were digging out a large shelter following the channels of the old water system. The Santu Spiritu underground shelter still preserves clear traces of the original channel. In the meantime both wells located within the friary perimeter, still continue to fill up with water, meaning that the tunnels being dug into were not the lower tunnels, but some type of service channel, located half way up the wells.

The conclusion drawn is that there are two levels of channels connected to each shaft. The surviving level is the '"service" channel while located at a deeper level and there must have been another channel serving as water catchment and well. The only known functioning well shafts are the two that pass through the Conventual (Grey Friars') Friary.

This service channel is today serving as main water channel for fountains located around Rabat: 7

ss Eugene Paul TlWIHI

Complex). Tas-Saqqajja's meaning, thai of a Southeast-facing fountain, in old Arabic (North African) tradition, is also lost to the local population.

The importance of these public fountains is further emphasized by reports dating from the knight's period. Systematic if irregular reports relating to the condition and abuses encountered on site are to be found at The National Archives. Since the presentation of my paper" new documentary evidence has turned u p " . The file includes correspondence, appeals, and reports relating to the precarious conditions, the malfunctions and abuses relating to the fountains at Gheriexem and Saqqajja. These reports date front 1625.1695 and 1718 respectively. One of the detailed reports, autographed by Blondel contains a very detailed map/plan of the water system under discussion.drawn by M. Blondel1" himself.

Together with the detailed report plan. B londd ' s sketch is the most interesting element since it shows in detail the channel, the circular features (spieri). and the blocked well Shafts, encountered during our own 1995-7 investigations. Blondel observes that intentional openings in the rubble and "pozzolana" walls, blocking the shafts, were causing most of the water to be siphoned away from the public fountains into private wells and cisterns. These (his report implies) were watering the "large" gardens located within the Roman ditch. An important element revealed by the sketch is that the channel leading to the Saqqajja Fountain takes a 90 degree tum to link to the fountain. As in the case of Gheriexem. this would imply that the original channels were not meant as access to these fountains, and that the radical modifications had to be made to link the fountains to their water source. This also implies that the channels were not originally intended to provide water to the fountains, but must have made part of an older water-system. The most promising period for these modifications and the building of the fountains would be during the Arab period. All place names have original Arabic terms.

Another invaluable if little appreciated source for information would be Fra Gio. Francesco Abela. In his Delia Descrizione di Malta hoia net Mare Siciliano con ie sue Antkhita' ed Altre Notizie. Libri Quattro. printed in 1647. he had already said it all:

34 Proceedings of History Week, held at The Ministry of Foreign Affairs. Merchants Street. Valletta. On Saturday 29th November 2003.

35 UN1V 187.1lv-12r. 36 Elaine Mieallef Valenzia, The Military and Civil Architecture of Baroque Malta and the

Chevalier de Malic Mederico de Blondel des Croiselles Idissertation). (September) 1999. 121-126.

Qanal. Saqqajja and Roman Aqueduct System 89

"...57 conservtuto gt' Aquidotti fatti con grand' ingegno per condurre sotterra I'acqua alia medesima. come si vede in effeuo. ch' elta (Rabat) sovrabbonda. vaghegiandousi deliiiose fontane. eke a gran douitia per ogni lata Farrichiscono. e abbelliscono insieme. Oltre mold pozzi d'acqua viva, de quad anche si servono i ciltadini..." "

In other words Abela is convinced that the channels feeding the public fountains at Gheriexem (ghar Yescem) and Saqqajja were "ancient".

When he speaks about Hammiem he tells us even more:

".. .come anche si mira tin pozzo d' acqtta viva, ch' e' la stessa cite va a sgorgare lungi un tiro di pietra soito le mura delta Cilia' nel luogo chiamato Aayn Hammyem. che vuol direfonte de' bagni. la quale hoggi serve di publico lavatoio; I'acqua e' aiqmnta calda, anzipiu' tosto salmastra, che dolcc.fr "

He also speaks of certain discoveries, in the vicinities, related to an ancient acqueduct system '" and the discovery of a Roman baths complex, possibly located close to Ghajn Hammiem'". Archaeological Evidence

To give a dale to the origin of this water system we must have some comparisons. What make this site important are the rectangular shafts (or putei) and the circular tunnels going round most of the well shafts. If we try to find comparisons for the putei we find that Roman Villa at San Pawl Milqi. Bitrmarrad has an identical

37 Gio. Francesco Abela. Delia Descrizione di Malta del Commentator Abela Malta 1647 31 (Abela. 1,11).

38 ibid. 33 (Abela ISO).

39 ibid. 109-117i Abela I.IX.deileacquedelhfonianae del/a condottaloro all Cina Valletta). 40 ibid. 33-36 (Abela I. III. discorso &' bagni. o stufe)

".. .non mancanofm' hoggi gli edifu i de' bagni. che usavano i nostri Antenati: atteso che vediamo nel giardino. fit gia' del Canonico Don Tomaso Zabar nel Rabato rimasto un Dumtiso, o sia volla a' testugine di pietre rustiche sotterra uppoggiata sopra grosse anticaglie concatenate di pietra delta da nostri giogiolena con calce. e rena. Net medesimo luogo si son trovali canali di piombo. per dove scorreva I'acqua nelle vasche. ove si lavavano. & alcumframmenti di pavimenio intersiati eon pezzi dimarmo di diversi colori. de' quali alcuni tuna via diligentemente presso di noi si consemtno..."

90 Eugene Paul Ten mil

wellhead41. This shall measures 1.70 x 0.65m and is covered by three large and thick slabs. One of them has a perforation so as to collect water. The large slabs are movable, as the rock-hewn steps in the shaft wall would indicate. The depth of the shaft on the Burmarrud site is a mere three meters, and the cistern was heavily modified at a later period, when a field was located on lop of the archaeological area. Similar slabs were observed blocking the shafts at the Rabat site.

Another important site that merits comparison is the excavation on Museum Esplanade, where a group of American archaeologists, have excavated the remains of Roman Melita'2. Their investigation had concluded thai the town house investigated had come to a sudden and catastrophic end. with the walls being toppled outwards. The location was never inhabited again and fields replaced the site during the Medieval Period.

The discovery of a deep shaft, corresponding to ones investigated within the precinct wail, with the three large slabs in place, made them draw an unfortunate conclusion. They thought that this was a shaft leading down to a set of tombs. They believed that it was only during the Medieval period thai this shaft was being used as a well. Unfortunately they did not remove the rubble walls within the shaft, this would have led them into a now defunct section of the water system investigated before. The measurements correspond in every way: the shaft is 1.60m x 0.65m.

This would show that at least the shafts date from the Roman Period. The other element is even more compelling. The circular tunnel that goes round behind the wellheads and their present collocation within the waterway renders them quite useless. So . why would someone expend such immense time and resources to create such elaborately worked collection of identical tunnels, located on a strait and level stretch of tunnelling?

41 Mission Archeologica lialiana. campagna di scavi 1963, Roma 1964. 119-144. Missione Archeologica Itatiuna. campagna di scavi /964, Roma 1965. Missione Archeologica Indiana, campagna di scavi 1965. Roma 1966.83-124. Missione Archeologica lialiana. campagna di scavi 1966. Roma 1967. Missione Archeologica lialiana. campagna di scavi 1967. Roma 1968. Missione Archeologica lialiana. campagna di scavi 1968. Roma 1969.93-11)8.

42 UCLA Excavation Report I Museum Esplanade. Rahul. Malta). 1983. (DAG 16-10 - B o x No. 6 i - T s ( l 2 3 ) .

Qanar. Saqqajja ami Roman Aqueduct System 91

In terpre ta t ion

The system with its two tier level was probably created sometime between the 4lh and 5,h Century A.D., when, as was happening throughout the Western and Eastern Roman Empire, towns and cities were being reduced to half or a third of their size to permit the huilding of fortifications, and the creation of wide ditches. Most of the material was recuperated from the demolished buildings, remaining outside this protective area. In this context, it may be surmised that the Roman Town house, on Museum Esplanade couid have been demolished and buried during such a project. One of the shafts is located squarely inside the house per imeter" .

The tunnels and wells (putei) examined were meant to supply a number of towers on a curtain wall located some 15.45m. from the ditch's edge. Another set of lowers, of which the vestiges are preserved in the octagonal monument base and St. Francis Friary perimeter wall, are set at 41m. from the ditch. The preserved wall section is circa 5,10m. at the base, to a height of some 6 metres. Another fortified perimeter, of which traces still exist behind St. Paul's Church, is located within the ditch itself. Open turrets for one or two soldiers made up this first line, eventually these were modified and enlarged into proper towers by the 6th or 9* Century A.D. Unfortunetly recent structural repair work on the "tower" structure, has covered and hidden from view these important traces. It must be noted that similar distribution of fortifications can be observed in numerous town and city plans from the Byzantine Period. The city of Byzantium was fortified in the same manne r " .

The service tunnels were accessible from every single shaft, as foot or toeholds show. The wells arc capped by three large ashlar blocks, measuring 0.86m. x 0.60m. x 0.35m. One of the blocks usually has a circular hole at the centre. Wear, especially through use of ropes, is evident. A number of shafts are blocked by barrel vault ceilings without any wellhead, and seem to have been blocked intentionally in antiquity. One shaft at Santu Spirtu has three massive ashlar blocks closing it. The service channel here is a mere 2.75m. below the rock level.

There arc sixteen shafts connected to each other between Ta ' Casha Chapel and St. Paul's Church. Another group of shafts must be located in the remaining stretch between St. Paul's Church and the Theuma Castelletti residence. The shafts measure 1.70m, x 0.65m. and average between 2.75m. and 12.00m. in depth, the deepest well

43 UCLA Excavation Report. 1983. 44 Cyril Mango, Architetiura Bizaniiiut. Milano 1989. 18-32.

92 Eugene Paul Teunu

being encountered near St. Paul's Church, the shallowest under Santu Spirtu. They are distanced some 13m to 24.2m. apart with two sets of wells being distanced respectively 4 2 5 5 m . and 42.44m. The first reading corresponds to the site immediately infront of St. Paul's Church while the other is located 38.75m. to the North West, in line with St Catald Chapel. These two readings could in practice indicate the town's main gates, as already described by Abela in 1647. Another gatehouse, possibly a postern, is embedded within the perimeter wall of St. Francis Friary. Three immense waterspouts (mwiezeb) typical of Byzantine construction are embedded in the debris. Yet another gap between shafts (33.3 m.) was encountered just infront of Ta ' Casha Chapel.

The second site examined, running from St. Francis Friary to Santo Spirtu. measures 52.92m. This is only a small pan of the whole tunnel system, but a good part seems to be blocked. Eleven shafts are traceable in this heavily modified area. They are spaced out between 8.17m. and 9.78m apart. The closeness of the wells could indicate that the "towers" along the South-East perimeter did not have a triple-line of defence before them. Consistent traces of another fortified wall or terrace may be seen within the excavation site next to Stinitt Spirtu Archives. This Isadoimtm opus" type of wall construction is cutting through, at right tingles, the older Phoenician/ Punic casement wall. It must have formed the base for an outer fortified wall or terrace located some 23m. infront of the second line of fortifications and the wellheads.

The water system must have been in use up to the very end of the Byzantine Period, until after a long and destructive siege the whole city of Melita was demolished by the Arab conquerors'*. Most of the shafts were hlocked and the channels were filled in with debris. At some time during the Arab Period the "service" channel was restored to serve at least three fountains: Hammiem, Gheriexem, and Saqqajja. The major modification being the sealing up of the end of the tunnels leading to the wells, and making use of the circular channel going behind the shaft area. This aspect would prove to be the most controversial pan of the project, for all future trouble, with siphoning off of public water and other abuses, would derive from these shafts. We know that the Universita and the Knights took care to curb abuses, cleaning and restoring these channels and public fountains.

45 Dictionary of Art and Archaeology.).W MoWett. London 1994. Isodomum or Isodomos: (equal courses) typically Greek or Roman construction technique where the surface of each stone is of one uniform size, and the joints of one layer are adjusted with those oj another so as to correspond symmetrically.

46 Joseph M. Brineal, 1995.16-17.

Qanat. Saqqajja and Roman Aqueduct System 93

The system continued in use during the British Period, when the introduction of water mains and other services made the public fountains eventually redundant. Saqqajja Fountain was already dry by the latter part of the 19* Century, while drainage tainted water from Gheriexem and Ghttjti Hammiem is today mainly employed for agricultural purposes.

Appreciat ion

During this research, which has taken the best often years, many persons helped out with the actual exploration of the water system and the planning of the site. 1 am indebted to Mr. Joe Dalli and Ms. Rachael Bugeja for accompanying me on a number of "field trips" into these dark. damp, humid and narrow confines of the Gheriexem track. Mario and Sylvia Galea for accompanying me through the Santu Spiritu! Saqqajja section, the late Fr. PucificoZammit O.F.M. Conv.. Fr. Sebastian (Bastjan) Scicluna O.F.M. Conv.Can. John Azzopardi. present Curator of Wignacourt Museum. Rahal.Rev. Fsadni.and successive Parish Priests of St. Paul's Church, who encouraged me with information regarding the area.

Thanks also should go to: Ms Elaine Salibalnee Micallef Valenzia) who lent me her dissertation and indicated to me the invaluable 16"' and 17"' Century manuscripts and related material at the National Archives, the late Tancred Gouder. and Anthony Pace for allowing me to view the ACLA report at The Archaeology Museum Library.

Lasr but not least 1 would like to thank past and present Committee Members of the Malta Historical Society for their support and invaluable help.

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