quality control in textile

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    QUALITY CONTROL

    IN

    WET PROCESSING

    PART I

    PRETREATMENT PROCESSOF FABRIC

    C. R. MADHU

    Textile Processing Technology Department

    R.C. Technical Institute, Sola, Ahmedabad, Gujarat

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    QUALITY CONTROL

    Quality in business, engineering and manufacturing

    has a pragmatic interpretation as the non-

    inferiorityorsuperiorityof something

    also defined as fitness for purpose

    Quality is a perceptual, conditional and somewhat

    subjective attribute and may be understood

    differently by different people

    Quality control, or QC for short, is a process by

    which entities review the quality of all factors

    involved in production.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pragmatichttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pragmatic
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    There are five aspects of quality in a businesscontext:

    1. Producing :- providing something.

    2. Checking :- confirming that something has beendone correctly.

    3. Quality Control :- controlling a process to ensurethat the outcomes are predictable.

    4. Quality Management :- directing an organizationso that it optimizes its performance through

    analysis and improvement.5. Quality Assurance :- obtaining confidence that a

    product or service will be satisfactory. (Normallyperformed by a purchaser)

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    TOTAL QUALITY MANAGEMENT (TQM)

    Total Quality Management, is an approach that extendsbeyond ordinary statistical quality control techniquesand quality improvement methods

    TQM is only one of many acronyms used to label

    management systems that focus on quality CQI (continuous quality improvement)

    SQC (statistical quality control)

    QFD (quality function deployment)

    QIDW (quality in daily work)

    TQC (total quality control)

    TQM is an integrative philosophy of management forcontinuously improving the quality of products andprocesses

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Total_quality_managementhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Management_fadhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quality_(business)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quality_(business)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Management_fadhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Total_quality_management
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    QUALITY CONTROLFOR GRAY FABRIC

    Visual Examination for certain defects as stains,

    mildew contamination, metallic impurities

    These impurities may be carried out to trace backtheir nature and origin at the grey stage

    This will help in taking suitable corrective action

    during processing and to adopt preventive measureas well.

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    EXAMINATIONUNDERULTRAVIOLET(UV) LIGHT

    This may be provide the origin of a stain by its

    characteristic fluorescence

    Mineral oil :- Strong Violet/White Vegetable oil :- Yellowish

    Metallic soap :- Yellowish

    Fluorescent brightening agent :- Strong Violet/Blue

    Mildew growth :- Yellow Metal stain :- Very dark area against a lighter background

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    DETECTIONOF COPPER & IRON

    Copper & Iron is likely to cause damage of cellulosic

    fibres, due to catalytic effect in peroxide bleaching

    Fe :- Potassium thiocynate/Potassium ferrocyanide test

    Dilute HCl, Potassium thiocynate (Pink)

    (10%)/Potassium ferrocyanide(10%) (Dark blue)

    Cu :- Ashed smaple

    Dissolved in dilute HCl & treated with Sodium

    diethyldithiocarbamate followed by extraction withchloroform

    Yellow colour indicate presence of Cu

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    QUALITY CONTROLIN PRETREATMENT

    PROCESSOF FABRIC

    Process Test to be carried out

    Desizing 1. Desizing efficiency

    Scouring

    1. Absorbency

    2. Wax content3. Ash content

    4. Cuprammonium test

    Bleaching

    1. Absorbency

    2. Cuprammonium test

    3. Whiteness

    4. Yellowness

    Mercerising 1. Barium activity number

    Heat Setting 1. Boiling water shrinkage

    2. Iodine absorption test

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    DESIZING EFFICIENCY

    Indian Standard No. 199, AATCC Test Method 79-1995

    Sample is to be solvent extracted in a soxhlet with chloroform % Desizing efficiency

    = % Original Size - % Residual Size X 100

    % Original Size

    Desizing efficiency comes90% :- Excellent

    80 90% :- Satisfactory

    below 80% :- Poor

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    ABSORBENCY AATCC TS-018

    Allowing a drop of water to fall from a fixed distance (2.5 cm)

    to the fabric mounted on embroidery frame of about 6 inchdiameter.

    Drop absorbency test

    Drop absorbency of about 5 sec is generally considered as

    satisfactory

    Berdnt & Golob, Dugal et.Al. suggested methods for

    hydrophobic fibre also by using C.I. direct Blue 86 and Black

    disperse dyestuff.

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    WAX CONTENT AATCC TEST METHOD 97-2009

    Extraction of about 10 g sample with suitable

    solvent (Chloroform for Cotton & Petroleum etherfor Polyester blend) in soxhlet apparatus.

    Extracted sample is dried in oven at 105C

    Amount of residue is expressed as percentage wax

    content on the original weight of sample.

    Chloroform

    Lab. Oven

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    ASH CONTENT AATCC TEST METHODS 78-1989

    5 g of sample incinerated in silica crucible in a

    burner followed by complete ashing in a mufflefurnace at about 700C fro 10 minute

    Amount of ash is expressed as percentage of the

    original weight of sample

    Muffle Furnace

    Silica Crucible

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    CUPRAMMONIUM FLUIDITYAATCC TEST METHOD 82-2012

    Determination of chemical degradation of cotton

    Cotton is dissolved in cuprammonium hydroxide in Xtype viscometer at 20C

    Internal volume:- 20 ml, filled with water & at bottom 0.7ml mercury is filled.

    C = F1 X d1 X t1, ,

    for liquid of known fluidity

    where, C = Viscometer Constant

    F1 = Fluidity

    d1 = Density

    t1 = time of flow Fluidity of cotton F = C/t

    For bleached fabric F = 5 8

    is satisfactory

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    WHITENESS AATCC TEST METHOD 110-2011

    This is attributed to the luminosity or freedom from

    yellowness

    It is measured by reflection of the specimen against

    standard white (MgO)

    In blue region

    W = 100 (R670R430) Harrison

    W = 430 (R670R430) Stephenson

    In USA, Hunters coordinates

    W = L3b HunterW = L + 3a3b Stensby

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    BARIUM ACTIVITY NUMBERAATCC TEST METHOD 89-2012

    Degree of swelling of cotton material during mercerization is

    determined by B.A.N. test

    3 g of specimen is extracted with carbon tetrachloride in soxhlet

    2 g of specimen is transferred to a conical flask and 30 ml, 0.25

    N Ba(OH)2 is added to it.

    This mixture is allowed to stand for 2 hours.

    From above mixture 10 ml of sample is titrated against 0.1 N HClusing phenolphthalein.

    Blank determination is also carried out without specimen in flask.

    BAN = [(a b)/(a c)] X 100

    a = volume of acid required for blank

    b = volume of acid required for mercerized specimen

    c = volume of acid required for unmercerized specimen

    A well mercerized cotton shows BAN in the range 125 135.

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    SHRINKAGEIN BOILING WATER

    AATCC TEST METHOD 135

    Test was originally recommended by Du Pont

    Blended fabric sample is marked in warp & weft

    direction & then boiled in water for 30 minute.

    % Shrinkage = [ ( Lo Lf) / Lo] X 100Lo = Original Length

    Lf= Final Length

    67/33

    polyester/cottonblend fabric shows

    shrinkage within 1 %

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    IODINE ABSORPTION TEST

    For assessing degree of heat setting this test is carried out.

    1 g sample taken in 250 ml stopper flask, 0.1 N 30 ml Iodine is

    added to this flask & allowed to stand for 2 Hrs.

    Sample is taken out and added in 50 ml chloroform, then 10

    ml 0.1 N Sodium thiosulphate is added to this mixture

    This mixture is titrated against 0.01 N Iodine solution using

    starch as indicator.

    Blank determination is also carried out.

    Iodine Absorption (mg/g) = [ (X Y) X 0.01 X 127 ] / W

    X = ml of 0.01 N Iodine required for blankY = ml of 0.01 N Iodine required for sample

    W = Weight in g of sample