textile testing & quality control

22
Testing & Product quality is of prime importance in any aspect of business. Customers demand and expect value for money. As producers of apparel there must be a constant endeavor to produce work of good quality. To assess the quality of textile product Textile Testing is very important work or process. Checking Raw Materials, Monitoring Production, Assessing the Final Product, Investigation of Faulty Material Product, Development and Research testing is done. For testing a textile product in a testing lab some flow diagram has to be maintained. Test & Report Sending Flow Chart: Sample Received with Artwork Letter Cover Page Submitted to Lab for testing Collect tested data from lab Collect tested Artwork Letter Cover Page soft copy from supplier Draft report on Artwork Letter Cover Page soft copy in tested result page If result pass then type Pass & If fail then type Failwith test result, Send report excel sheet soft copy to Cover page mension email address After that they send a mail with Reach, Okeo- Tex, Bill of material & Summery Create Report word formate and then pdf, Sign 3rd page of reach then scan in pdf, Summary pdf Send report to asign Adli Merchantiser for Carrection &Approval After Approval, send report to TUV Aldi Sud Team for sending final report to Adli South/North

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Page 1: Textile Testing & Quality Control

Testing & Product quality is of prime importance in any aspect of business. Customers demand

and expect value for money. As producers of apparel there must be a constant endeavor to produce work

of good quality. To assess the quality of textile product Textile Testing is very important work or process.

Checking Raw Materials, Monitoring Production, Assessing the Final Product, Investigation of Faulty

Material Product, Development and Research testing is done. For testing a textile product in a

testing lab some flow diagram has to be maintained.

Test & Report Sending Flow Chart:

Sample Received with

Artwork Letter –Cover

Page

Submitted to Lab for

testing

Collect tested data from

lab

Collect tested Artwork

Letter –Cover Page soft

copy from supplier

Draft report on Artwork

Letter –Cover Page soft

copy in tested result page

If result pass then type

Pass & If fail then type

Failwith test result,

Send report excel sheet soft copy

to Cover page mension email

address

After that they send a

mail with Reach, Okeo-

Tex, Bill of material &

Summery

Create Report word formate and

then pdf, Sign 3rd page of reach

then scan in pdf, Summary pdf

Send report to asign Adli

Merchantiser for Carrection

&Approval

After Approval, send report to

TUV Aldi Sud Team for

sending final report to Adli

South/North

Page 2: Textile Testing & Quality Control

Analytical Test for textile Product

- Test Name Tested Parts Individual/Mixed Test

pH Formaldehyde Azo Dyes (EN /German) (Textile/Polyester) AP (NP+OP) APEO (NPEO+OPEO) APEO/AP (NPEO+OPEO+NP+OP) Total Lead In Substrate Materials Total Lead In Surface Coating Total Cadmium Content Release Of Nickel (EN12472/1811) Release Of Nickel (EN1811) Phthalates Content Phenols (OPP) Phenols (PCP + TeCP) Nickel Spot Test Carcinogenic Dyes Chlorinated Organic Carriers Chlorinated Paraffins (C10-C13) Chromium VI Extractable Heavy Metal (ISO 105 E04) Heavy Metal In Surface Coating (ASTM F963-07) Identification Of PVC (Beilstein + FTIR) PAH Tin Organic Compounds (TBT/DBT) Toxic Heavy Metal (EN 71 Part 3) Allergenic Disperse Dyes Dimethylfumarate (DMF) KIK chemical test package Takko test package Carrefour test package Others

Colorfastness, Flammability &Fiber test for textile product

- Test Name Test

Description

Standard Method

AATCC ASTM D

BS / EN ISO

DIN

OTHERS

C / F To Washing C / F To Water C / F To Sea Water C / F To Perspiration C / F To Light

Page 3: Textile Testing & Quality Control

C / F To Crocking C / F To Cl-Bleach C / F To Non Cl-Bleach C / F To Dry Cleaning C / F To Ozone C / F To Burnt Gas Fumes C / F To Saliva C / F To Aging C / F To Dye Transfer C / F To Phenolic Yellowing C / F To Chlorinated Pool Water Fiber content Flammability( 16 CFR 1610) Flammability( 16 CFR 1615/

1616)

Others

Wet Lab & Physical test for textile product

- Test Name Test Description

Standard Method

AATCC ASTM D

BS / EN ISO

DIN

OTHERS

Dimensional Stability To Washing

Appearance after washing Spirality after washing Tear strength Tensile strength Seam slippage Seam strength Abrasion resistance Pilling resistance Pull/tension test Zipper strength Thread count Yarn count Stretch & Recovery Bursting Strength Sharp Point/ Edge Small Parts Torque Test Fabric Weight Endurance To Washing Print Durability Others

Page 4: Textile Testing & Quality Control

Strength of Textile Products: Breaking strength

The maximum tensile force recorded in extending a test piece to breaking point is called breaking strength

or tensile strength of a material.

In other word the resistance of a yarn or fabric to tensile biding is called tensile or breaking strength.

Tearing strength The avgas force required to continue a tear previously started in a fabric is called the tensile strength.

In other word tearing strength (force) is the resistance showed by fabric against tearing.

Bursting strength

Busting is the resistance of a material to rupture when subjected to a pressure acting perpendicular to the

plain of the fabric. The load is carried by both warp & waft thread.

In tearing or breaking strength, the strength of fabric was tested by applied load is only one direction, But

in case of bursting strength the direction resistance to rupture of a circular specimen in determined.

TENSILE PROPERTIES

The behavior shown by the textile materials when it is subjected to a load or tension is called tensile

properties.

TYPES OF TENSILE PROPERTIES

1. Tenacity

2. Breaking Extension.

3. Initial Modulus.

4. Work of Rupture

5. Breaking Load

6. Work Factor

7. Work Recovery

8. Elastic Extension

TENACITY

It is defined the ratio between load required to break the specimen to Linear Density of the specimen is

called Tenacity

Load required breaking specimen

Tenacity=

Lanier Density

Unit of Tenacity : kg/Tex, N/Tex, gm/Denier

Page 5: Textile Testing & Quality Control

BREAKING EXTENSION

Load required to a break a Textile Materials is useful quantity. It can be defined as the % increase in

length of the Textile materials of breaking after applying load on it increase length

Increase length × 100

Breaking Extension=

Total length or initial length

INITIAL MADULAUS

The tangent of angle between initial curve and Horizontal axis in equal to the ratio between stress and

stress.

Stress

TanӨ =

Strain

WORK & RUPTURE

Total work done are total energy required to break the Textile Materials is called as word rupture.

Unit for Work & Rupture: Jule/Calory.

BREAKING LOAD

Load is required to break the Textile materials is called Breaking Load.

WORK FACTOR

It can be defined as the ratio between work of rupture & the product of Breaking load and breaking

elongation.

Work of Rupture

Work Factor =

Breaking load and breaking elongation.

WORK RECOVERY

The ratio between work of rapture during recovery & total work done for total extension in known as

work recovery.

TOTAL EXTENSION

Elastic Extension + Plastic Extension.

Total work done for total extension= Work done for elastic extension + work done for plastic extension.

Work of Rapture during Recovery

Work Recovery=

Total work done for Total Extension

ELASTIC RECOVERY

The Recovery for the extension of the Textile materials after load is called Elastic Recovery of Textile

materials depend on Crystalinity, Molecular weight, Packing Orientation, Chemical bond.

For Example

A B C D

AB= Initial length of specimen

Page 6: Textile Testing & Quality Control

BC= Elastic Extension

CD= Plastic Extension

BD= Total Extension

Elastic Extension

Elastic Recovery= ×100

Total Extension

Tensile Strength: Determination of breaking force and elongation of textile fabrics. - (ISO 13934-2)

Significance

It indicates the potential strength of woven fabric within a product in resistance to tension.

This test method is not recommended for knitted fabrics and other textile fabrics which have high

stretchability (more than 11%).

The fabric is conditioned in a standard environment of 20 ± 2°C and 65 ± 4% relative humidity for at least

24 hours. The fabric is cut into specific specimen sizes 200mm x 100mm. Both warpwise and weftwise

directions are required. Test specimens are mounted on a tensile tester along the long dimension and

subjected to a constant rate of extension. The loading force at point of rupture or break is recorded as

tensile strength.

General Note:

Coarser yarn size gives a greater tensile strength

High twist yarn gives a greater tensile strength

Higher fabric count gives a greater tensile strength

Different fiber possess different tensile properties

Tearing Strength: Determination of the average force required to continue a tear from a slit in a woven fabric

by means of falling pendulum (Elmendorf) apparatus. - (ISO 13937-1)

Significance

It indicates the potential strength of woven fabric within a product in resistance to tearing

action.

Page 7: Textile Testing & Quality Control

The method is applicable to treated and untreated woven fabrics, including those heavily

sized, coated or resin-treated. The test is not suitable for knit fabrics, felts or non-woven

fabrics.

The fabric is conditioned in a standard environment of 20 ± 2°C and 65 ± 4% relative

humidity for at least 4 hours. Specimens, for both warpwsie and weftwise, of specific

shape are die-cut from the sample fabric. The specimens are mounted between two

clamps, precut by a knife then torn through a fixed distance by the swinging pendulum to

generate the average tearing force in pounds for both the warp and weft directions.

Sample size for Pendulum tear Important Note:

Coarser yarn size gives greater tearing strength

Looser sett gives better tearing strength

Different surface finishes on the fabric will affecting the tearing properties

Bursting Strength Determination of bursting strength of textile fabrics using hydraulic method. - (ISO 13938-1)

Significance

It indicates the potential strength of the knitted fabric within a product.

The fabric is conditioned in a standard environment of 20 ± 2°C and 65 ± 4% relative humidity according

to ISO 139. Test specimen is clamped over an expandable diaphragm. The diaphragm is expanded by

fluid pressure to the point of specimen rupture.

The test method is generally applicable to a wide variety of knitted goods and non-woven fabrics. It is not

recommended for general use on uncoated woven fabrics.

Bursting Strength = Total Pressure - Tare Pressure of the Specimen

Page 8: Textile Testing & Quality Control

Important Note:

Coarser yarn size gives greater bursting strength

Higher stitch density gives higher bursting strength

Different surface finishes on the fabric will affecting the bursting properties

Seam Slippage Determination of the yarn slippage resistance at sewn seams in woven fabric under loading. - (ISO

13936-1 & ISO 13936-2)

Significance

It determines the tendency of the yarns to slip out of the seam and whether they would be readily

repairable by re-seaming.

Seam slippage is the separation of seam due to slippage of filling yarns over warp yarns or warp yarns

over filling yarns. In such slippage, the stitching thread is remain unbroken.

Fabric Sample

A test specimen of 400mm x 100mm with long direction parallel to the filling yarns is cut from sample

fabric, if the warp yarns slide over the filling yarns is tested or vice versa.

Page 9: Textile Testing & Quality Control

The load-elongation curve of the fabric is superimposed over a load-elongation curve of the same fabric

with seam sewn being tested. Resistance to yarn slippage is reported as the load at which slippage of a

specific size is seen.

This test is not intended for upholstery fabrics.

The fabric alignment of adjacent patch of a seam may not be the same in a garment seam. Direct

measurement of seam slippage on garment seam provide a more accurate result.

Remedies for preventing seam slippage: 1. Superimposed seam type

2. Lapped seam type with tape / interlining reinforcement

3. Anti-slip finish (resin treatment)

Page 10: Textile Testing & Quality Control

Method for Strength testing of Textile Products.

Page 11: Textile Testing & Quality Control
Page 12: Textile Testing & Quality Control

Tensile Strength :

Speed of upper clamp

Test Standards: ISO 5082

BS EN ISO 13934-1 _____ mm/min +/- 10 %

BS EN ISO 13934-2 50 mm/min +/- 10 %

GB / T 3923.2 50 mm/min +/- 10 %

AS 2001.2.3.2 50 mm/min +/- 10 %

ASTM D5034 300 +/- 10 mm/min

Equipment

No.: Universal Tensile Tester: 004

Gauge Length: (m

m)

Test Results:

Requirement: lbs cN N gf kgf Warp: min. ________ Weft: min. ________

Sample

Direction Specimen Break Force Break

Extension Break Force

Break

Extension

Warp

1

2

3

4

5

Average

Elongation at Break (%)

Weft

1

2

3

4

5

Average

Elongation at Break (%)

Remark :

Jaw Break – any break which occurs within 5 mm of clamping line of jaws. If any of the jaw break results falls below the lowest

“normal” break result, it shall be excluded and further tests carried out to obtain the number of “normal breaks” for each set of testing,

i.e. 5 tests.

Record the result for

values:

< 100 N to the nearest 1 N

} For BS EN ISO and AS Standards only ≥ 100 N to < 1000 N to the nearest 10 N

≥ 1000 N to the nearest 100N

Unit

Conversion: 1 kgf = 2.20462 lbs 1 kgf = 9.80665 N 1 N = 10 daN

Page 13: Textile Testing & Quality Control

Tearing Force Using Pendulum Method

Test Standard: □ ISO 9290 □BS EN ISO 13937-1

□ASTM D 1424 □AS 2001.2.8

□ GB/T 3917.1

Equipment No.: Digital Elmendorf Tearing Tester: 008

Notch size of specimen: 15 mm W x 12 mm H – BS EN ISO, GB/T, AS Standard

12 mm W x 12 mm H – ASTM Standard

Jaw spacing gauge: 3 +/- 0.5 mm – BS EN ISO, GB / T, AS Standard

2.5 +/- 0.25 mm – ASTM Standard

Permissible range: 15 % and 85 % of the full scale range – BS EN ISO, GB/T, AS Standard

20 % and 80 % of the full scale range – ASTM Standard

Test Results:

Requirement: lbs cN N gf kgf Warp: min. ________ Weft: min. ________

Remark: CT

= Specimen exhibits crosswise torn in the opposite direction

The test result should be rejected if (a) there is slippage of threads out of the

fabric; (b) slippage in the jaw; or (c) the tear is made outside the 15 mm or 12

mm wide notched area.

Unit

Conversion: 1 kgf = 2.20462 lbs 1 kgf = 9.80665 N 1 N = 100 cN

Sample Direction

Pendulu

m

Loading

Used

Tearing Strength Average

1 2 3 4 5 (

)

Tear Across

Warp

Tear Across

Weft

Tear Across

Warp

Tear Across

Weft

Tear Across

Warp

Tear Across

Weft

Tear Across

Warp

Tear Across

Weft

Page 14: Textile Testing & Quality Control

Tearing Strength of Fabrics by the Tongue (Single Rip):

Test Standards: □ BS EN ISO 13937-2

□ ASTM 2261

Equipment No: □ Universal Tensile Tester: 004

Requirement: lbs cN N gf kgf

Test Results: Warp: min. _________ Weft: min. _________

Sample

Direction

Tear

Across

Warp

Tear

Across

Weft

Tear

Across

Warp

Tear

Across

Weft

Tear Across

Warp

Tear Across

Weft

Specimen

1

2

3

4

5

Average

Remark: # = Specimen exhibits irregular torn

Unit

Conversion: 1 kgf = 2.20462 lbs 1 kgf = 9.80665 N 1 N = 100 cN

Page 15: Textile Testing & Quality Control

Bursting Properties of Fabric using Hydraulic Method

Test Method: □ BS EN ISO 13938-1 □ BS EN ISO 13938-2 □ ASTM D3786

□ AS 2001.2.4 □ CAN/CGSB-4.2 No.11.1

Equipment No.: Auto Burst Tester :005

Tested Area: □ 31.0 mm □ 31.5 mm □ ………

Test Results:

Color Unit

Requirement kpa psi bar atm Kg/cm²

Test location kpa psi bar atm Kg/cm² Requirement

Side Seam

Shoulder

Armhole

Sleeve

Inseam

Crotch

Unit Conversion: 1 kg/cm² = 14.22 Psi

1 psi = 6.895 kpa

Page 16: Textile Testing & Quality Control

Garment Seam Strength / Slippage Test Standards: BS EN ISO 13936-2 BS EN ISO 13935-2

Equipment No.: Universal Tensile Tester: 004

Gauge Length: 100 mm

Dimension of Jaws: Front Jaw = 25 mm L x 25 mm W, Rear Jaw = 25 mm L x 75 mm W

Speed of Upper Clamp: 50 ± 5 mm/min

Test Result(s):

Sample:

____________

Requirement: Applied Load @ …………….. N For Fabric Weight ……………. ….g/m²

Raw Data Result

Test Area SO (mm) Breakdown

(N)

Type of Seam

Failure SO (mm)

Breakdown

(N)

Type of Seam

Failure

Side Seam

Yoke

Shoulder

Armhole

Sleeve

Cuff

Outseam

Inseam

Front Rise

Back Rise

Crotch

Waist

Remark: Apparel Load Applied (N) FRS = Fabric Rupture At Seam

≤220 g/m² 60 STB = Sewing Thread Broken

≥220 g/m² 120 FR = Fabric Rupture

Unit Conversion: 1 kgf = 9.80665 N 1 N = 10 daN

1 kgf = 2.20462 lbs

Page 17: Textile Testing & Quality Control

Fabric Seam Slippage Test Standards: BS EN ISO 13936-2

Equipment No.: Universal Tensile Tester: 004

Gauge Length: 100 mm

Dimension of Jaws: Front Jaw = 25 mm L x 25 mm W, Rear Jaw = 25 mm L x 50 mm W

Speed of Upper Clamp: 50 ± 5 mm/min

Test Result(s):

Specimen

Requirement: mm cm Inch

Applied Force:____________________ Seam Opening:_____________________

Sample: Sample:

Applied

Force ……

Seam Opening

mm Type of Failure

Applied Force

……

Seam Opening

mm Type of Failure

Seam

Parallel

to Warp

1

2

3

4

5

Average

Seam

Parallel

to Weft

1

2

3

4

5

Average

Remark: * = Seam Opening Less than 3 / 6 mm FTS = Fabric Torn At Seam

STB = Sewing Thread Broken FR = Fabric Rupture

Unit Conversion: 1 kgf = 9.80665 N 1 N = 10 daN

1 kgf = 2.20462 lbs

Load Applied: Apparel ≤ 220 g/m² 60 N

Apparel ≥ 220 g/m² 120 N

Furnishing 180 N

Page 18: Textile Testing & Quality Control

Stretch Properties of Fabrics Woven from Stretch Yarns (ASTM D 3107):

Equipment No.: 017 (Stretch & Recovery Holder)

(A) Fabric Stretch (%) (Section 10.3)

Option (1) :Use 4.0 lbs (1.8 kg) load or

Option (2): Use 3 lbs (1.35 kg) load

Measure the distance between the benchmarks at the 30 min at stretched condition

Original distance between

bench mark: (Dist. 01, mm)

Distance between bench mark at the 10 sec

and 30 min cycle at stretched condition

(Dist. A, mm)

% Fabric Stretch

(Dist. A – 250) / 250*100

10 seconds 30 Minutes 10 seconds 30 Minutes

Warp Weft Warp Weft Warp Weft Warp Weft Warp Weft

1 % % % %

2 % % % %

3 % % % %

Avg. % % % %

(B) Fabric Growth & Recovery after Stretching to a Specified Extension (%) (Section 10.5)

Calculate the extension at 85% of the Average Fabric Stretch

Hold it for 30 minutes and then release and allow it to hang freely

85% Extension of the

Average Fabric Stretch

(Dist. H, mm) equals to

(Dist. A – 250) * 0.85 + 250

Distance between bench

marks after 30 sec.

(Dist. I, mm)

Fabric Growth after 30

sec.

(Dist. I –250) / 250*100

Recovery after 30 sec.

(Dist. H – Dist. I) /

(Dist. H – Dist. 01) * 100

Warp Weft Warp Weft Warp Weft Warp Weft

1 % % % %

2 % % % %

3 % % % %

Avg. Avg. % % % %

Distance between bench

mark after 30 min.

(Dist. J, mm)

Fabric Growth after 30

min.

(Dist. J – 250) / 250*100

Recovery after 30 min.

(Dist. H – Dist. J) /

(Dist. H – Dist. 01) * 100

Warp Weft Warp Weft Warp Weft

% % % %

% % % %

% % % %

Avg. % % % %

Distance between bench

marks after 1 hr.

(Dist. K, mm)

Fabric Growth after 1 hr.

(Dist. K – 250) / 250*100

Recovery after 1 hr.

(Dist. H – Dist. K) /

(Dist. H – Dist. 01) * 100

Warp Weft Warp Weft Warp Weft

% % % %

% % % %

% % % %

Avg. % % % %

1. Sample size: 60mm x 560mm (ravel 50mm width)

2. Bench mark : 250mm

Page 19: Textile Testing & Quality Control

Test Title: Zipper Strength ____________________________________________________

Standard: BS 3084, ASTM D2061, DIN 3419-1, NF G 91-005 _________

Equipment No.: 004 ______________________________________________________________

Test Description: Sl.

No. ASTM D2061 DIN 3419-1 BS 3084

Test Data

N Lbs. Kg

01 Chain Crosswise Strength Transverse Strength of the Slide Fastener (6.2.3.1)

Lateral Strength of Fastener

02 Slider Lock Holding, Stringer Separation

- Strength of Slider Locking Device

03 Element Pull-Off Take-off Strength of a Coupling Element (6.2.3.2)

-

04 Bottom Stop Holding Strength, Crosswise

Transverse Strength of the Lower Border Part (6.2.3.3)

-

05 Element Slippage Lengthwise

- -

06 Holding Strength Of Top Stop

Strength of the Upper Border Parts (6.2.3.4)

Strength Of Top Stop

07 Bottom Stop Holding Strength, Slider

- Strength of Close-End

08 Bottom Stop Holding, Stringer Separation

- -

09 Separating Unit, Crosswise Transverse Strength of the Divisibility Element (6.2.3.5)

Lateral Strength of Open – End attachment

10 Fixed Retainer, Pull-Off Longitudinal Strength of the edge part of the Divisibility Element (6.2.3.6)

Strength of Open-End Fastener Box, Lengthwise

11 Separable Pin, Pull-Off - -

12 Resistance To Pull-Off Of Slider Pull

Take off Strength of the Grip (6.2.3.7)

Strength of Puller Attachment

13 Resistance to Twist of Pull and Slider/Torsional Resistance of Slider Pull

- -

14 - - Open-End Fastener Single Stringer Slider Retention

15 - Permanent Run Behaviour (6.2.3.8)

Resistance to Reciprocation

Others:

16 Chain Crosswise Strength After Reciprocating Test

Page 20: Textile Testing & Quality Control

Strength Requirement according to end use & fabric type of different Buyer:

Buyer Name: Kaufland

Buyer Name: Malu

Buyer Name: Carrefour

Page 21: Textile Testing & Quality Control

Buyer Name: C&A

Buyer Name: Varner

Page 22: Textile Testing & Quality Control

Conclusion:

For this lab report I have worked in the TUVB (TUV Rheinland Bangladesh Pvt. Ltd.),

Physical department. TUVB is a commercial Testing Lab. By strength test we Assessment

of strength of final product or fabric, whether the strength of fabric is acceptable or not.

Tensile is the potential strength of woven fabric within a product in resistance to tension.

Tear indicates the potential strength of woven fabric within a product in resistance to

tearing action. Seam Slippage determines the tendency of the yarns to slip out of the seam

and whether they would be readily repairable by re-seaming. Bursting strength indicates

the potential strength of the knitted fabric within a product. In this report I know about the

different requirement of strength test, according to end use through buyer. Also understand

about the different test requirement, which need to fulfill a quality textile product.