professional beauty gcc - december 2015

For your beauty, hair and spa business

December 2015

GCC

Jolly holiday

Shine in our nail competition Our guide to seasonal selling

Tips for success

Competitive edge

10 business boosters

All you need to know about semi-permanent make-up needleknow-how

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professionalbeauty.ae

in this issue...63Regulars Features

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7 News Openings, launches and the rest of the news from the world of spa, hair and beauty

20 Insider Our exclusive monthly stats for beauty salons, spas and hair salons

28 Ask the experts Advice on skin supplements, hair colour, nails and make-up services

61 Spotlight on spa speakers Sharon Barcock on the GCC PSWC 2016

75 Treatment news This month we test a Voya Hamman, Elemis facial and KeraStraight hair relaxing treatment

@PBGCC

contents

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80 Calendar The essential dates for your business diary from trade shows to conferences and training

51 Leading lady We catch up with Rita Remark, global lead educator for Essie, during her recent Dubai visit

58 Its good to talk Maria Dowling on effective communication

63 Grand designs Behind the scenes at the spa at the Ritz-Carlton Grand Canal, Abu Dhabi

Published by and (C) 2015 Trade Exhibitions & Publishing FZ LLC.

Registered at Dubai Media City. 321 Building #8, Dubai. UAE t: +971 (0)56 352 2906

Trade Exhibitions & Publishing FZ LCC

Editor: Fiona Vlemmiks [email protected]

Contributing editor:Zoe [email protected]

Contributors: Maria Dowling

Advertising: t: +971 (0)50 359 1157

Sales director: Zaid [email protected]

Circulation & subscriptions enquiries: [email protected] t: +971 (0)56 352 2906

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Publisher: Mark Moloney

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Printing: Masar Print & Publications LLC - PO Box 485100, Dubai www.masarprint.com

Controlled Distribution: Blue Truck www.bluetruck.ae

The Publishers cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessarily those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers' particular circumstances. The publisher accepts no responsibility for any advertiser whose advertisement is published in Professional Beauty. anyone dealing with advertisers must make their own enquiries.

Professional Beauty GCC December 2015


welcome

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72On the cover23 Needle know-how

All you need to know about semi-permanent make-up

36 Jolly holiday Seasonal selling solutions for spas and salons

53 Competitive edge

Learn how to shine in our 2016 nail competition

66 Ten business boosters Read our handy tips on achieving salon success

Whats the hallmark of the ultimate salon or spa experience? Thats been my recurring question recently as I ve had the priv ilege of assisting in the judging of the Global Spa and Wellness awards.

To accomplish excellence, a spa or salon must consider every single aspect of a clients journey from the moment they book, to the instant they leave the venue and beyond in the form of follow up communication and feedback requests. Achieving this is no mean feat, but some of you are hitting the mark and raising the bar for standards in the industry.

Outside of the judging, I visited mariadowling salon and SensAsia spa this month, both beacons of successful customer service. At both venues the service is seamless, with the clients every need anticipated and met. The teams at both venues are also adept at recommending products selling without the hard sell.

If sales are a challenge in your business, read our guide to seasonal selling, including retail displays, sales tips and seasonal promotions on page 33. We also include the latest festive gift boxes to tempt your clients this December.

As we continue the planning for our new 2016 Beauty Conference, to run alongside the Professional Beauty GCC exhibition on 1 - 2 February, we reveal plans for our improved nail competition for aspiring technicians. Read our advice on how to prepare, enter and shine on page 53.

As I close the last issue of 2015, Ive been reflecting on another whirlwind year at Professional Beauty. There are many exciting things on the horizon as we kick-start next year with our second industry exhibition, spa conference and beauty conference. We hope youre excited about being a part of it and we look forward to continuing to support, promote and inspire your business in 2016 and beyond.

Fiona Vlemmiks EDITOR

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Several local and internationally renowned hairdressers have pledged their support to the Professional Beauty GCC 2016 exhibition, signing up to become brand ambassadors for the show. Ambassador and international stylist

Jamilla Paul will also preside over the Hair Stage at the exhibition in February. The British stylist is creative and brand director at Glamour Salons in the UAE and creator of The Jewel Bar internationally. Jamilla has been in the industry for 25 years and represented some huge brands artistically throughout her career. She is a regular at New York, London and Paris Fashion Weeks and also runs a multi award-winning flagship salon in the UK along with working for many TV Shows including Being The Boss an MTV Beauty Show.She will present the exciting event,

which will include hair presentations

and inspirations from a very exciting line up of professionals both regionally and internationally.Other star ambassadors who

share Professional Beautys ethos of supporting industry growth and sharing ideas and inspiration include Tara Roux, Ruksher Malik and Maria Dowling.In addition to the ambassadors,

two further international stylists have confirmed that they will be presenting on the Hair Stage. Angelo Vallilio, who was British Hairdresser of the Year Eastern winner 2013, 2014 and has also represented Britain in the Wella Trend Vision Awards in Berlin and is the first British hairdresser to be selected as a member of the Sebastian Professional Artistic Teamwill be present.Also attending is multi award-winning

hairdresser Tracey Devine who is is Affinages Global Ambassador. Originally

the founder of Angels salon in Aberdeen, Devine focuses some of her time conducting educational seminars, shows and presentations and is responsible for the creative direction of Affinage. In 2012 and 2013, she added to her accolades by winning the title of Mens Hairdresser of the Year and Fellowship Hairdresser of the Year in the UK.The ambassadors will be joining the

panel debates at the end of each day of the Beauty Conference on 1 and 2 February. Topics are Regional Trends, Whats Hot and What's Not and Salon Management, What To Do When Things are Tough. Visitors can also send their questions to the panel in advance to [email protected] Full programme details will be published in Professional Beauty GCC January. In the meantime, read more at: www.professionalbeauty.ae/beautyconference

News All the news and views from the world of beauty, hair and spaTop stylists appointed PB ambassadors Jamilla Paul

Revenue per customer grew significantly for spas, hotels, resorts and other providers of spa and wellness services in 2014, according to a new report. The International Wellness and Spa

Tourism Monitor 2014/2015 found that revenue per customer has gown by around 6.5 per cent for local and

domestic guests and 8 per cent for international guests, compared to the figures for 2012.The report, the third by the Tourism

Observatory for Health and Wellness (TOHWS), collected information from 56 countries around the world. The report also noted an increased interest in medical services and in health and fitness related options.Twenty per cent of local, 18 per cent of

international and 12 per cent of domestic tourists did, for example, show an interest in complementary therapies. Fitness and sports was of interest to 18 per cent of local, 13 per cent of international and 20 per cent of domestic tourists.The report also highlighted a shift

in the motivation of customers. The treatments and services offered remains

a top reason for choosing a facility, with 38 per cent of international, 21 per cent of domestic and 19 per cent of local guests citing this as key.However, the brand and reputation

of the property has become a more important factor. This is now a priority for 21 per cent of international, 38 per cent of domestic and 36 per cent of local guests.The reported defined 17 types

of operations that provide spa and wellness services, including resort spas, urban hotel spas, wellness resorts and centres, medical spas and resorts, airport spas and mineral springs spas.The highest growth was reported for the

category of healthy hotels and resorts, up 14 per cent, wellness hotels, which grew by 10 per cent, retreats, and adventure spas and wellness facilities, both also up 10 per cent.

Fitness, sports and complementary health services more important to global travellers

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The luxurious new Iridium Spa comprises six treatment rooms, including separate sections for male and female guests, each featuring dedicated wet areas with steam and sauna facilities, two hammams, and a relaxation area in the form of The Iridium Room.Iridium Spa offers a wide range

of treatments, ranging from facials, massages, body treatments, detoxifying wraps, hammam and reflexology.To coincide with the opening of the spa,

Iridium has been chosen as the venue to launch several new brands into the Middle East. Soleil Toujours is introducing its suncare

line and will be launched at the St Regis Dubai pool deck. The products protect the skin with natural state-of-the-art formulas, combining deeply nourishing, healing and rejuvenating ingredients.Amanda Schmiege, director of spa

and recreation says, We are extremely

delighted to unveil Iridium Spa at the St Regis Dubai. Our spa will live up to the legacy of the brand, not only in its design but also in our signature treatments and exclusive product offerings. Our partnerships with such brands as Soleil Toujours is particularly exciting as we are able to introduce new suncare options into the Middle East."Another exclusive anti-ageing brand

Swiss Perfection is also entering the Middle East market with the launch of its products and treatments at the prestigious new spa.Pioneering skin and hair care brand

Carol Joy London also joins the line-up, the second spa to debut the brands range in the Middle East. Nicole Fletcher, director, Carol Joy London said, We are thrilled to see Carol Joy London in such a prestigious and relevant setting. The Iridium Spa forms part of a wider strategy to grow Carol Joy Londons presence in the Middle East and we are looking forward to working closely with them to bring these transformational products to their customers

Glowing Global Mentorship Program participant reflections have been published in a 100-page report. The document entitled Mentorship

Reflections, Guiding and Inspiring Spa

for a Well World was made public in time for the start of the Global Wellness Summit in Mexico, in November.The mentorship programme is the

first international initiative of its kind in the spa and wellness industry and allows spa managers interested in elevating their experience to be paired with a more senior spa director mentor. The GMP, which launched in January

2015, will recommence in January 2016 with the first of two six-month long sessions begin.Jean-Guy de Gabriac has been

appointed initiative chair, global career development by Susie Ellis, president and chief executive officer of the Global Wellness Summit.In the first wave of the programme, many

spa professionals took the opportunity to participate in the Middle East.One mentee Maria Haggo, who was

then spa director at Carlton, JBR, Dubai, was mentored by Francisca Atunes,

area director, Six Senses Middle East and Africa.In the report, Haggo reflects,

Participating in the Global Mentorship Program has had a tremendous impact on me both professionally and personally and I would highly recommend it to anyone in the industry who wishes to open their view and widen their approach.I found it very enriching, after many

years of working in the industry, to be able to take a step back and in company with another professional to discuss and deliberate one of my projects. It has given me a deeper insight and overall a new perception on how I previously saw my business and my project.It has also given me a boost of confidence

to be able to share knowledge, opinions and insights with someone in the industry who has much broader and deeper experience than myself."The inaugural 2015 edition of the programme

saw 34 mentees in 22 countries paired with 17 mentors, and programme organisers are aiming for 100 mentees and 50 mentors in 2016. Read the full report at www.mentorshipevidence.com/resources/mentees-precis?

Georges El Mendelek visited Pastels Salon Ritz-Carlton, JBR, Dubai in November to give the salons clientele the chance to experience the touch of an A-list stylist.El Mendeleks portfolio's includes an

impressive body of work for renowned fashion designers such as Elie Saab and Christian Louboutin and in addition to styling many of the Middle Easts most beautiful women such as Daniella Rahme, Raya Abi Rached and Elissa, the talented hair expert has become a go-to stylist for several TV shows including Mission Fashion, Dancing with the Stars, Arabs Got Talent and The

X Factor. Unsurprisingly he is also a LOral ambassador and the in-demand Lebanese stylist has styled shoots and cover shots for several notable Arabian publications, namely Jamalouki, Al Jamila, Femme and LOfficiel.Pastels salon frequently plays hosts

celebrity and highly-influential stylists from around the world.

St Regis Dubai launches new Iridium Spa

Mentees report positive impact of GMP

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A-list stylist coiffures Pastels clients

The Spa and Wellness Centre at Four Seasons Hotel Riyadh has undergone a transformation of its treatment rooms and relaxation area under the skillful guidance of GA Design International.Alongside a structural overhaul of the

centre, a new relaxation area, Oxygen Bar and locker room for guests have been introduced, while the treatments rooms and an existing locker room have been entirely renovated.A fresh dcor scheme has been created

throughout the centre using warm natural earth tones to evoke an inviting, soothing and cohesive sense of rejuvenation and relaxation throughout the area. Bedding by Comphy and a MLX

Quartz wellness couch, plus additional spa equipment from Gharieni have also been included in the new look spa and wellness facility.In parallel to the revamp of the facility

itself, the spas treatment menu has also been updated with a number of new rituals being added to its line-up. Oriental and Sahara massages, Royal and Moroccan hammams and a number of new facial treatments are among the enhanced offerings.The refurbishment of the Spa and

Wellness Centre demonstrates the hotels commitment to continually improving the guest experience and our recent win at the Worlds Spa Awards for Worlds Best Men Spa only comes to assert that, says Akram Al Kawasmeh, senior director of spa at Four Seasons Hotel Riyadh. We have put on offer an array of relaxing new treatments, delivered by skillful Four Seasons Spa therapists. The new spa uses unique high-tech spa equipment, and world-renowned products such as Kerstin Florien, to offer guests a spa experience like none other available in Riyadh.


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Carolina Moquist will take up the role of spa director of LivNordic Spa and Wellness at the soon-to-be-opened Cayan Tower in Dubai Marina.

Moquist, who will take control of all aspects of the spa, is an experienced professional who has held positions in countries including the Dominican Republic, Oman, Macau and the UAE and with the Six Senses group.

We are all very excited at the prospect of establishing LivNordic in Dubai. It is a very unique spa and wellness concept and we are sure that the project will be a huge success and a remarkable addition to the portfolio of Cayan Hospitality. I wish Carolina utmost success in her endeavour, said Ahmed Alhatti,

President and Chairman of Cayan Group.

Im proud to be part of Cayan Group and to work with its dedicated team. As well, I am extremely excited to be at the helm of this project and I look forward to bringing an authentic Nordic experience to Dubai. The residents of this vibrant, cosmopolitan city are well aware of health and wellness trends and I am sure they will appreciate the latest practices and treatments from the industry, add Moquist.

Cayan Hospitality, a subsidiary of Cayan Group, signed a partnership with Swedish luxury spa specialists Raison dEtre the developers of the LivNordic spa concept earlier this year.

Make Up Institute opens in DubaiThe Lipstick make up Institute has opened its doors to all UAE make-up enthusiasts in the UAE, offering comprehensive course programmes aimed at producing creative and unique make-up professionals.

Founded by professional photographer and industry expert Yasmin Hussain, The Lipstick Make Up Institute forms the sister company to successful photography studio YH Studios.

Working alongside Hussain, is master make-up professional and make-up educator Livia Rideg. Both artists have over 25 years experience in the industry and have translated their expertise into a series of workshops. The classes will showcase the most effective application techniques, while also educating students to be precise, quick and practical in order to maximise the experience and gain confidence in the industry.

Supported exclusively by professional make-up brand Kryolan, students will acquire product knowledge in all mediums including stage, theatre, TV, beauty, fashion and catwalk make-up.

The Lipstick Make up Institute offers 13 pioneering courses including Platinum and Gold Diploma Media Make Up Course.

New look for Four Seasons Riyadhs Spa & Wellness Centre

Cayan Hospitality appoints Carolina Moquist spa director

Talise scoops spa award

Big Rock partners with Eric FavreBody-building legion Morgan Aste, aka The Big Rock, launched Eric Favres clothing line in the UAE at a fitness event in Dubai last month.The natural food supplements,

health, wellness, sports and beauty product specialist decided to bring the brand to the Middle East and reveal his collection at the event, the first Etisalat Fitness Fest, which took place at the Dubai Autodrome in November. With his super hero physique, (the

strongest man in France weighs off season 160kg and 135kg during contest) The Big Rock performed

numerous challenges that left the crowd in awe.

Eric Favre said We are excited to bring the success of our clothing line in the United States to the United Arab Emirates and we couldnt think of a better way to unveil it than to participate in this big fitness event.

Eric Favre Paris has been in the wellness, health, sports nutrition, beauty industry for more than 25 years now. And we think this is a good platform to engage directly with our audience and make them aware that our brand is available here in the region.


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Talise Spa at Madinat Jumeirah, Dubai, has been award Best in the Middle East by Spafinder Wellness 365.The winners were announced during

the 2015 Wellness Travel Awards at a press event held at the World Travel Market in London.

Inaugurated in 2014, the Wellness Travel Awards recognises the demand for healthier travel options and honour hotels, resorts, destination spas and retreats worldwide offering the best

wellness vacations and experiences. Winners were selected by a panel

of 33 travel and wellness industry editors and experts, who nominated 504 properties for consideration before narrowing the field to finalists in 53 countries and regions, and by consumers who voted for their favourite locations across 20 categories.

Awards were presented by Mia Kyricos, chief brand officer of Spafinder Wellness alongside Spafinder Wellness chief operating officer John Bevan, to

the top properties in three categories: Crystal Awards, top properties on six (habitable) continents; Country/Region Awards, top properties in 43 countries/regions; and Category.

We are honored to recognise the best in wellness travel from all corners of the globe, said Kyricos. Our objective is to help travellers identify options for their ideal wellness vacations, while also recognising the excellence and innovation that exists in this rapidly growing sector of the travel industry."


Industry news from around the globe

Affordable on-demand treatment service set to launch in UK

Anew mobile treatment service is to launch in the UK next year, focused on making on-demand beauty treatments affordable and accessible to the masses.Zeebba, Persian for beauty will roll-

out across London in 2016 and offer female and male services including make-up and lashes, nail treatments, massages, waxing, tanning, facials and hair services.Founder Roxana Mohammadian-

Molina said: Bespoke, mobile beauty and grooming has been traditionally viewed as a luxury for the fortunate few; Zeebba seeks to make this an

accessible reality to the many. We all deserve to look our best.Zeebbas therapists are trained by

The London Makeup School and The London Hair Academy, in addition to holding previous accreditations and qualifications, and they must complete trade tests before joining the service. Once accredited, the therapists or hairstylists profile will appear on the website with a short bio and photo. Therapists will visit clients at home, in the office or at a hotel between 7am and 11pm. Prices start from AED 110 for a basic manicure. Appointments are booked in three steps using Zeebba's website or app.

The nature of workplace wellness is set to evolve as companies and governments understand the impact of stress on productivity and the need for wellness to become integrated into company culture.According to the Wellness at Work

Research Report, previewed at the Global Wellness Summit 2015 in Mexico the cost of unwellness at work is around AED 7trillion in the US alone.The report identified that there are

3.2 billion workers in the world and 87 per cent feel disengaged at work, with 38 per cent saying they are under excessive pressure.However, the researchers

estimate that only 9 per cent of workers have access to any type of workplace wellness provision.Additionally, workplace

wellness programmes focus more on wellness issues experienced outside of work, rather than admitting the effects that pressure in the workplace has on health, said the reports researchers Ophelia Yeung (pictured) and Katherine Johnston.They predict that in the future,

wellness at work will evolve because

governments will demand and oversee greater change, due to the cost implications of an ill workforce. Additionally, they predict that the workplace wellness programmes of today will disappear, replaced by a proper culture of wellness at work, that is integrated throughout the company, rather than driven by HR teams only.Companies will realise that doing

right by their employees and the community is doing good business, said Yeung, adding that consumers in the millennial demographic will refuse to work for or buy from companies

that dont place sufficient importance on the health of their workers. The full report will be released in January.

Six Senses Residences Courchevel is set to open its doors in the French Alpine ski resort this month. The property, which will be Six Senses

first residential complex in Europe, will feature 53 apartments.The property will comprise a series

of one, two and three-bedroom apartments, as well as penthouses with up to five bedrooms and their own private treatment rooms.The 10 penthouses will be up to 100sqm

each and will offer panoramic views of the surrounding Alps. Facilities at the Six Senses Residences Courchevel will include a Six Senses Spa, scheduled for an autumn 2016 opening.The five-treatment room spa will

include an indoor swimming pool, saunas, a relaxation area, a juice bar and a gym, complete with a studio for fitness and wellness classes.Treatments at the spa will range

from signature massages and body treatments to facials and manicures and pedicures. Neil Jacobs, chief executive of Six

Senses, said: We are delighted to be selected to manage Six Senses Residences Courchevel, the first fully-serviced residential development in Courchevel."

Six Senses opens Alpine residences

Workplace wellness to evolve as companies realise true cost of stress

professionalbeauty.aeinternational news

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PErCENTAGE OF CLIENTS WhO rEBOOkED

60%

60% BETTER

40% WORSE

hOW DID ThE TrEATMENT BUSINESS IN NOVEMBEr 2015

COMPArE WITh NOVEMBEr 2014?

AVErAGE TrEATMENT rOOM

OCCUPANCy

70 %

Insider beauty, hair and nailsEncouragingly, average treatment room occupancy is hovering around the 70 per cent mark, like last month, and the number of clients rebooking is up by two per cent from last month. The majority of you also report an increase in year-on-year figures for treatment business.

As compulsory health insurance for all businesses comes in next year, 80 per cent of you say you already offer this benefit to your staff. Looking forward to next year, many of you will be offering scrubs as you capitalise on the annual trend for New Year diets and detoxes.

NOVEMBER

Insider, our exclusive round-up of salons in the GCC. Its the easiest way to stay in the know

On the spotWhICh DETOx TrEATMENTS WILL yOU OFFEr ThIS JANUAry? 1. Scrubs2. Wraps3. Massage4. Undecided

WhAT IS ThE MOST IMPOrTANT ELEMENT OF ThE SALON ExPErIENCE? 1. Therapists skill2. The treatment results3. The salon dcor4. The welcome

80%PAy FOr STAFF hEALTh

INSUrANCE

The month in numbers


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60% SamE

40% BETTER

hOW DID ThE TrEATMENT BUSINESS IN NOVEMBEr 2015

COMPArE WITh NOVEMBEr 2014?

AVErAGE TrEATMENT rOOM

OCCUPANCy

70 %

As the year draws to a close, business appears healthy with the majority of you revealing that treatment business is level with this time last year. Average treatment room occupancy has improved from last month and rebooking rates have rocketed from 46 per cent last month, to 67 per cent this month.

Other figures reveal that 90 per cent of you offer your staff the benefit of health insurance and the majority of you believe that the therapists skill is the most important part of the spa experience. When it comes to your New Year detox treatments, the bulk of you are plumping to offer your guests detox massages.

NOVEMBER

Insider, our exclusive round-up of spa in the GCC. Its the easiest way to stay in the know

On the spotWhICh DETOx TrEATMENTS WILL yOU OFFEr ThIS JANUAry? 1. Massage2. Scrubs3. Wraps4. Undecided

WhAT IS ThE MOST IMPOrTANT ELEMENT OF ThE SPA ExPErIENCE?1. Therapists skill2. The treatment results3. The welcome4. The spa ambiance

90%PAy FOr STAFF hEALTh

INSUrANCE

The month in numbers

Insider Spas

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PErCENTAGE OF CLIENTS WhO rEBOOkED

67%

Needle know-howThe demand for semi-permanent make-up is growing. Zoe Moleshead gets the lowdown from two Dubai-based experts, Chloe Walsh and Candice Watson, on the what, why and how of this delicate treatment


make-up


What are the key considerations for a salon looking to introduce semi-permanent make-up treatments? Candice Watson: Make sure the person doing the semi-permanent make-up (also know as micropigmentation) has proper qualifications and is professionally licensed to do the work in the establishment they are doing it in. Also ensure they can provide a portfolio of clients that they have actually worked on, not just [images taken] from the Internet. If it is a salon and not a clinic they must have been trained via a KHDA approved training centre, this then automatically gives municipality approval to be done in a salon. The salon must also add the activity to their license.

How can salons ascertain that the pigments and machinery they are purchasing are of a high quality?Candice: The machines used here in the UAE should be machines that have been registered, which are mainly German manufactured and are digital, not rotary machines. All needles should be pre-sterile blister packed and are strictly one use only and then disposed of after every treatment. Pigments must also be approved and not permanent inks.

What training should technicians undergo in order to be experienced in providing such treatments?Candice: Technicians providing these treatments should have either a beauty or tattooing background, or nursing qualifications, and should have completed and

got a certification from a reputable training centre for whatever treatments they are offering. The basic make-up course should have been a minimum of four days plus at least six months to a year of practicing before they should be charging full price for the treatments. These treatments are very specific and require knowledge and practice that can only be obtained by doing more of them, they also need to listen to their clients needs and wants and be able to explain fully what they are doing and how the colour reacts in the different skin tones of each individual client.

Chloe Walsh: Technicians really need to do their research when deciding to take a career in this service. You, or your staff, should train with a well-known, reputable firm who offer intense training. Unfortunately, and scarily, there are some cheap courses out there, which are not regulated and it is not ideal to train with them when you are working so

closely with clients delicate facial areas.

How does semi-permanent make-up differ from permanent make-up?Chloe: Semi-permanent make-up/permanent make-up is more or less the same thing. The reason people get confused is that even though it fades on some clients, there may always be a slight bit of pigment left in the skin, which if you look closely you can see. We cant guarantee that the pigment will 100 per cent disappear because every skin type is different and it is also dependent on how the client looks after the area i.e. excessive exposure to UV rays, medication, and so forth. We recommend maintenance around every 12 months to keep the colour looking fresh.

"The main reason for brows is to create the

perfect shape and fill in any gaps where

hair may not grow anymore"

Candice: Semi-permanent make-up and permanent make-up are in fact one and the same in technical terms, however, in laymans terms (to the client) the procedure if done correctly, using approved and good quality pigments, is a semi-permanent procedure. The colour will last between one and three years, dependent on the skin type and the amount of sun it is exposed to (generally in UAE they will need a re-touch every year as the sun is so strong and constant). The actual molecules if looked at under a microscope will stay in the skin forever but the colour will go, hence technically it is both permanent and semi-permanent.If a technician tells you the colour will last several

years or more then they are using a permanent body tattoo ink which is strictly not allowed on the face, not only here in the UAE but most other countries. The body tattoo pigments all contain blue as the base hue colour as blue is indelible and the only colour to last in the skin forever. These pigments are not designed for the face and should never be used for semi-permanent make-up; a blue eyebrow or lip is a bad look!

What semi-permanent make-up treatments are available/do you offer?Candice: I offer all make up treatments (eyebrows, eyeliner, eyelash enhancement, lip line, full lip colour, colour correction and beauty spot). I also offer all medical micropigmentation including 3D areola treatments, vitiligo, scars and burn treatments and scalp hair follicle simulation for both men and women.Chloe: Sisters offers eyebrows with the natural hair strokes or powdered effect, eyeliners/eyelash enhancements and lip enhancements.

How popular are semi-permanent make-up treatments?Chloe: Eyebrows are extremely popular!! Eyeliners are very popular as they are great for people who swim/go to the beach and who cant apply their own eyeliner. Lips are also becoming very popular as cosmetic make-up can really help to enhance the natural lip contour.

What are the reasons clients might consider having semi-permanent make-up? Chloe: The main reason for brows is to create the perfect shape and fill in any gaps where hair may not grow anymore. A lot of clients dont want to have to fill in their brows every day so this is another reason why clients choose to have this done. For eyes also, this is a great way to enhance them without having to apply make-up every day. The reason clients have lips done is mainly to enhance the perfect shape of the lip. Candice: Semi-permanent make-up or medical micro pigmentations can be done for so many different reasons and for so many people. For make-up, especially in Dubai where everyone is so busy and has no time, it saves time on applying make-up, along with of course never smudging or melting off your skin in the hot months; many sporty people benefit from this also and we generally try to keep the treatments looking very natural rather than bold and fake. Semi-permanent make-up should be an enhancement of your features and not a replacement of heavy make-up.


make-up


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Prior to treating a client, what should technicians discuss with them?Candice: In the consultation there should be questions of medical history, any medication they are on (this can affect the pigment) and the treatment should be fully explained [in terms of] what is going to happen before, during and after the treatment along with aftercare instructions. The pain should be minimal through the use of numbing creams but not always completely comfortable. Treatment time should be explained and the also they should be aware of the fact that they will need at least one re-touch about one month later to complete the treatment.Chloe: A consultation is very important in this line of work. Its great to see the area you will work on before you go ahead with the treatment. You should see the colour that is suitable for the skin type, you should have explained thoroughly what will happen throughout the treatment, what you need to do before the treatment, how the area will look immediately after the treatment and then discuss aftercare. The price should also be discussed so the client knows what to expect. It

is important the technician understands the clients expectations and reasons why they have chosen this service so she can really meet their expectations.

What after-care considerations are there for clients?Chloe: The main thing is to be careful when out in the sun always use a good SPF and try and cover the area. The area will look darker/sharper immediately after but will soften and fade after a few days. There may be a slight sensation of itching and dryness around the area during the healing process but this is very normal and hardly noticeable. I always offer my clients an aftercare balm to apply for the week after the initial treatment. Candice: The healing time is usually between 3-5 days before the colour fades and they can stop using the aftercare cream, but the redness and swelling (should they get any) will only last around two hours, maximum 24 hours. No water can be used for at least 24 hours on the area and sun, steam or any heat treatment should be avoided for around seven days. PB

Candice Watson is the founder of Exclusive Beauty and a specialist in semi-permanent make-up treatments. She trained and worked in Harley Street, London, UK and carries out treatments in Dubai at the London Centre for Aesthetic Surgery (LCAS). exclusivebeautyuae.com

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Chloe Walsh is an experienced specialist cosmetic make-up artist whose career has spanned the UK and UAE. She is a fully qualified brow and semi-permanent make-up specialist and carries out all her semi-permanent treatments at Sisters Beauty Lounge salons in the UAE. @clobrowsdubai / [email protected]

Miriam Seferian is the founder and consultant of Shenkha, a UAE-based spa concept and project development company. Her extensive career has seen her consult on spa and wellness projects around the globe.

Our beauty professionals answer a selection of questions covering every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business

Ask the Experts

Standard Operating Procedures (SOPs) are the most valuable document your business will ever own. It is a tool to ensure precision in the performance of your staff and the service provided within your facility.

The way I begin putting together an SOP for a spa or wellness centre is by understanding the nature of the business at hand. You must first understand what you are describing the steps to, before you can actually write about them. The details must offer the reader an in-depth understanding of how the spa is operated as well as knowledge of how the business will be run.If your SOPs are for a spa in the pre-opening stage,

as the writer, you must have extensive experience in the spa industry and a clear vision of the way you, or the operator of the spa, want the tasks and services to be performed. If the location is already operational, an in depth analysis of the existing operation is the first step. Sit, watch, listen, evaluate, and then write.Behind this must be the expertise and spa business

know-how of the writer. The writer must also be able to understand and identify the dos and donts of what constitutes professional behaviour, exceptional service standards as well as have an objective eye on how a staff member should perform the protocols.Every step of the workday becomes your SOP

document. The SOPs incorporate a step-by-step guide to operations from the moment you open the doors to your spa in the morning until you lock-up at the end of the day. Everything in between this timeframe makes up the different chapters of your SOPs.The SOP must be self-explanatory in itself, in that

any experienced therapist, technician and even manager will be able to operate the spa facility and

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How should one go about putting together a Standard Operating Procedures manual for a spa and what key areas should it adress?

perform the basic services coherently and easily.The first steps to your SOP are looking at staff

conduct, rules and regulations within the work environment, preparing for your work day, greeting your guest, guiding and treating your guest, ending the ritual, closing the sale, rebooking and sending your guest off.One must also include procedures for operating

any equipment used in a treatment. This must be demonstrated and indicated clearly in the SOP. Any and all contraindications to the services must be identified and listed as well. Another very important part of the SOP is safety and hygiene. Every spa needs to have safety standards and guidelines that must be identified for all staff to follow, whether it is for safety in manipulating spa equipment or how to handle an evacuation during a fire. The staff must be given the steps to be taken in such events so they know what must be done. Hygiene is also often overlooked yet it is one of the most important protocols to be followed by any spa staff. This should include how to sterilise equipment and all tools must be clearly indicated in the SOP. Dont forget to mention how important it is for the staff to constantly wash their hands.SOPs are vital to any business. For the spa

industry they are the guidelines used to guarantee the professionalism your facility will deliver to its clientele and ultimately to increasing revenue through increased customer satisfaction.Without your SOPs its like

walking though your business with a blindfold on!

Virginie Mounier is the co-founder of the Eric Favre laboratory. She has developed the company alongside Eric Favre for 20 years in France and internationally and has held several positions from the company.

Bryony McMillan is an OPI educator and also a member of the brands A team, an expert team of three top techs who work on events and give advice.

old. No one wants unhealthy skin, but since so many people fail to understand its causes, far too many people are suffering from it. Various things can result in unhealthy skin but the main causes are unhealthy diet, an ineffectual cleansing routine, poor lifestyle habits, pollution, stress and excessive exposure to the sun. To better protect the skin against all these factors, one needs to maintain a healthy balance from inside and outside. One way to do that is to take in antioxidants via a supplement. Eric Favre Parisincorporates one of natures super antioxidants, the pine bark extract into its food supplements.Pine bark extract is extracted from the inner

bark of pine trees. The extract contains active compounds, which include powerful antioxidants oligomeric proanthocyanidin compounds (OPCs). OPCs contain some of the most potent antioxidants available. These antioxidants provided by the pine bark extract help to diminish the destructive effects of free radicals and may help repair skin damage. Such a food supplement provides an integrated skincare approach.

As well as technique, the perfect brush is so important. I find the OPI 2 piece Artist Series a great brush to sculpt Acrylic with as it has 100 per cent natural kolinski bristles, which helps to really retain the monomer to pick up the perfect bead.

Skin problems can have significant impact on quality of life and psychological wellbeing. Vibrant, healthy skin has a youthful glow, good colouring and a smooth, unblemished look. However,

unhealthy skin can look sallow, tired, wrinkled and

There are a few ways to make sure you get a good finish every time and make fewer mistakes. First off, make sure you use the right forms for you, whether you prefer reusable or free forms. You also want to

make sure the form fits perfectly underneath the free edge of the nail with no gaps and no movement. Once this is in place you can start sculpting.Find the easiest way to sculpt for you do you prefer

to sculpt the white first or apply the pink first? Either way, make sure you perfect the smile line. If applying the pink first you can always file the smile line to really neaten it up to get an airbrush-look finish. If youre applying the white first, make sure that you dont have too much monomer on your brush. If your bead is too wet you wont have any control over it and it will be really difficult to sculpt with.Always ensure your apex is in the right place to

protect the stress area; this is so important to the look of the nail as well as the health of the natural nail.

Im looking to introduce a range of supplements for clients, particularly those that are beneficial to the skin. What should I be looking for in a supplement range?

Whats the secret to sculpting the perfect pink and white?

business tips



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For make-up to be successful in a salon it's important to reserve a dedicated area, identifying it through specially studied make-up displays, as well as a make-up mirror and chair to perform make-up

services in combination with sales service. In addition to displays of trendy collections, which are essential to meet the demands of the fashion market, we also recommend that the make-up display unit include most of the product range. Furthermore a smaller displayer a make-up square should include key elements of the range. Also bestseller displays are essential. They should focus on a single type of product and be placed on the counter near the cash desk to stimulate impulse buying.It's very important to maintain clean display units

and products. Not only does this make them attractive to the eyes of a consumer, but also it is important for reasons of hygiene. It is necessary to clean these items often and replace used, damaged or compromised products. For hygiene reasons, it is always recommended to apply a product on customers with specific make-up brushes and once you have finished using the brushes always clean them with care.

This topic is important and it all depends on the doctors advice for each client. Some doctors forbid any kind of colouration to be done for pregnant women on the scalp, or off the scalp, as

a precaution to ammonia being absorbed through the skin or the respiratory system. On the other hand, some doctors allow their patients to colour their hair only if the hair colouring product is 100 per cent ammonia free and also fragrance free. If this is the case, LOral Professionnels INOA hair colour and Platinium Ammonia-Free highlighting products are ideal solutions for these clients, since they are both 100 per cent ammonia free, scent free and they dont

What advice can you offer us for retailing make-up in our salon?

Is hair colouring in pregnancy advisable? Our clients are keen to retain their stylish look, and locks, in pregnancy but Im unsure what approach to take to ensure they are safe.

evaporate. As mentioned before, addressing this area [pregnancy] is very critical and the approval of a doctor is a must before using any ammonia-free products on your client. I would recommend giving a sample of the product to the client so she can show it to her doctor and ask for his/her written approval.

Tiziana Pezzolesi Bizzocchi is Eva Gardens research and development director.

Naim Nahed is the regional education manager for LOral Professionnel. He has 20 years experience in hairdressing, including 10 years as a creative director, and loves inspiring fellow hairdressers to achieve their best.


business tips


Jollyholiday

Seasonal selling Claire Gittus is general manager of aspire Beauty Trading with many years experience in the beauty industry. She walks us through how to increase seasonal retail sales.

Wherever you are in the world there is always that great feeling at the change of any season, when the malls and shops start getting in all the new colours and designs for the months ahead. So it always surprises me when salons

and spas dont capitalise on the same seasonal opportunity

of retailing and promotions. When our clients are already in

that mindset, we should be jumping on the back of the

small fortune these large brands have spent on marketing

these yearly occasions that can increase your revenue

considerably.

Being switched on and aware of seasonal trends can be a key advantage for your business. Its all about understanding the needs of your clients and providing services and products that they will be excited about. You can find great success during the seasonal periods by simply making a few small adjustments to ongoing services and offering retail solutions to different types of clients, from those with limited time and budget to those willing to embrace the whole new season, but the main thing is dont let it pass you buy and lose out on that potential growth of revenue.Think about the time of year and be conscious of

your clients' needs and demands. It may be that express services work well with homecare solutions for those short on time. It may be gift ideas; take the stress away from the client, ensuring they dont have to trail the malls for ideas. It may be travel companions to make travelling easier and lighter not only on the luggage, but on the pocket with multipurpose products. In the meantime the weather also plays a large part in the

seasons and our mood, so you have to factor this in when thinking of your promotions and retail opportunities. For example, its no good putting a pedicure and flip flop promotion on in December!Selling doesnt come naturally to most therapists so

training and in depth product knowledge is key. Suggest they talk to the clients! Discussing and pinpointing the promotions available is important as the clients may not be aware of whats on offer. Therapists should be motivated to want the best for their clients whether that is up selling a better service that is more suitable to them, or making sure they get the best deal on the day. Finally, always remember more sales means more turnover for the business and possibly the therapist!

Have a selling hot spot in the salon/spa so that clients get used to seeing the latest promotions. Incorporate your promotion with the season. For example, at the festive period you may have the little black dress promotion. Advertise on social media. Include the weather and colours of the season to make it current and eye-catching to the client. Look at whats worked in the past.

Learn how to make the festive season a business opportunity with our handy guide on selling, promotions and retail displays

Top tips for seasonal selling success

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Presents and promotions Salina Handa is founder and managing director of Sensasia Urban Spa, a chain that goes big on seasonal promotions. She tell us her secrets to success.

We always go big on the festive

season. We know our clients wait

for, and are excited about, our

promotions at this time of year. Its

the only promotion we work on way

in advance. Our calendar dates have been set all year, and

so has the marketing mix.

This year were are offering SensAsia Christmas gift

vouchers which can be purchased against any of our

award-winning facials, massages and body treatments,

including the latest launches. Vouchers bear a beautiful

bow and tailored tag with the gift-givers choice of six cute

Christmas messages, such as Thank you... youre spa-

tacular, To the most super dooper spa-vellous mum and

You made Santas nice list. SensAsia has created

incentives for spa Santas too, and for every AED 400 spent

on making somebody elses festive season more serene,

SensAsia will award the gift-giver a AED 100 voucher to

spend on themselves.

We are also offering corporate Christmas gifting solutions

that boast huge rewards for bulk buys. Companies (or

individuals!) purchasing AED 10,000 of festive gift vouchers

will receive a 10 per cent discount, plus 35 SensAsia Oil

Burners as an added employee treat. When AED 15,000 is

spent, the discount goes up to 15 per cent, plus 35 SensAsia

Oil Burners and a AED 25,000 total earns the gift-giver a free

two-hour pop-up spa to treat the team to mini massages in

their place of work.

When planning your promotions, create linked sales by

incorporating merchandise and related seasonal offerings

into your promotions. Most importantly, and ironically where

the least amount of focus is often spent in this industry, is

your Front of House. The team handling the spas Front of

House (FoH) is key in determining any promotional success.

You have to get their buy in. They have to be sold to first.

They have to genuinely believe in, and see the value in, every

offer, promotion and new launch you introduce. FoH staff

should be trained on scenarios, scripts, consumer behaviour,

brand intentions, benefits and key selling descriptions. In my

experience, you can do anything you want, spend significant

money on campaigning but if your FoH is not on board and/

or equipped with the right sales tools, you run the risk of

disappointing sales figures.

Assess past data. If it didnt perform last time, establish

what went wrong and dont repeat your mistakes. Look at

past consumer trends within your own facility, then look out

to the market. With today's technology, capturing and using

consumer data can increase the power of your marketing

programme significantly. Whether you ask the guest for their

information before or after their spa visit, the importance is to

capture it. You can then plan your marketing messages

accordingly. Discounts work very well in the short term, but

that doesn't buy you the loyalty that you need to build a

strong clientele. Discounting on series sales can also work

really well in hotels or facilities where the guest is less likely to

repeat their visit. Value additions work very well. Everyone

likes to feel theyve got more than they went in for.

The names of treatments and promotions have to be catchy and relevant. Get Front of House staff on-board Value additions work very well Train staff Allow lead time in between promotions


festive focus


Top tips for promotions success

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At mariadowling, we never underestimate the power of detoxing the hair. External toxins and product overload can both affect the growth and vitality of the hair, which is why we have developed our all-natural Hair & Scalp Detox clay masque to deeply cleanse, stimulate, moisturise and rebalance the hair and scalp.The product is simple. A zen-like mix of clay and pure

oils including peppermint, jojoba and lemongrass help to

restore beauty to the hair as well as soothe irritated scalps. Apply fortnightly for best results and your clients will be on their way to healthy hair growth full of vitality and beauty.Our Hair & Scalp Detox can be applied in-salon and at

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An initial client consultation is a must. Try to find out if they have any specific

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Clip the hair up but dont cover, and leave on for 20 minutes. The client will feel a tingling sensation in the scalp which is the effect of the

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At the backwash, wet hair thoroughly with tepid water then

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Decorate and displaymaria Dowling is creative director at mariadowling salon. Dubbed the Queen of Colour by her fashionista clients, maria Dowling has been in the hair business for over 20 years, having successfully opened the middle Easts first colour specialist salon in 2002. She tells us how she captilises on retail displays during the festive period.

The festive season is a particularly busy time for

mariadowling salon (and I would hope for most

salons in the region)! Not only are our clients

keen to perfect their colour and style before they

jet off overseas or attend that important festive

party, but theyre also thinking of ideas for gifts for friends and

loved ones.

While retail isnt the main part of a salons business, it plays an

important part in your bottom line so maximising its potential

during seasonal festivities is essential. Why? Despite being

tough times for everyone, those celebrating (and often those

who arent!) are much more inclined to spend on gifting, without

too much thought. Its the thought that counts, correct? The

thought of having to think of something unique to buy for each

and every friend and family member can be a burden so we can

take that stress away by offering clients a solution.

Retail displays in general are important to every business.

They draw the customer in and can often generate an impulse

purchase purely because they catch the eye. Make sure you put

all of your products on display. Check your stock to see what

you have and get it on the shelves. Change things around so

clients see different products in areas they may not have looked

at before. In my experience, when you move products to a busy

area, things start to move. Clean and tidy shelves. Get extra

stock in but dont overcrowd the area. I always stock my

products using the same technique as a supermarket. I dont do

displays but Im very fussy that the lines of products are straight,

and at eye level. When the product moves, I replace it quickly.

If something isnt selling or you have excess stock, create

pretty gift baskets, to make them look more attractive. If a

customer thinks they can solve their what to buy for that aunt

who has everything dilemma in one festive purchase then a gift

basket could be on the agenda. Gift vouchers are also important

and we sell a lot of these over the festive period.

Talk to your client about what their Christmas plans are, who

theyve still got to buy for and make suggestions that might

help. Its also a good idea to have some point of sale signage at

each of the styling chairs, telling them dont forget to check out

our retail collection for festive gifts. I always think it is far better

to receive a gift that you can use and salon products are still

regarded as a luxury. From experience, hairbrushes always work

well as gifts, as do conditioning treatments.

Dont go overboard! Theres a time and a place for festive life-

sized Santas and tinsel a salon is not one of them! Keep it

tasteful and within your brand guidelines. For example, we try to

stay within the mariadowling colours of orange and black, with a

little bit of silver. Our signage, our Christmas cards and gift

vouchers are all designed to be very noticeably mariadowling.

We decorate the reception simply, with selected Christmas

ornaments and keep our signage modest.

A great seasonal touch that has worked for us every year is

creating a Christmas gift tree for all of our customers. From 2

December until Christmas Eve, every client who visits the salon

has a chance to win some pampering products. Theyre invited

to pick a Christmas card from the tree before they leave and

some cards have a congratulations written inside, which

means they can pick a goody bag from under the tree. It really

creates great excitement over the month of December and

allows us to give something back to our clients who have been

loyal to us all year.

Keep it simple leave the talking reindeers for

Santas grotto.

No cheap, old or torn ornaments/decorations

just because youve brought it out for the past

ten years, doesnt mean to say you have to keep it

for another ten! If in doubt, throw it out.

Move the products around regularly and keep

the popular pieces at eye level.

Keep within your brand guidelines. If youre a simple,

clean brand, avoid over-the-top sparkles.

Catch them at the chair customers spend the

majority of their time in their chair so give them some

point-of-sale material to look at.


festive focus


Top tips for seasonal retail displays

All that glitterswe have the seasons best gifts all wrapped up


professionalbeauty.aefestive focus

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Elemis Elemis is offering six gorgeous gift sets for both men and women, meaning that there is something for everyone. The Forever Frangipani Collection cleanses, nourishes and conditions for smooth and supple skin. It includes The Frangipani Monoi Shower Cream, Frangipani Monoi Body Oil and Frangipani Monoi Body Cream.

Omorovicza This introductory Christmas set is the perfect starter kit for skincare on-the go. The gift set contains five bestselling products, which have been handpicked for their deep cleansing, brightening and energising effects. Each product works in conjunction with the others, to awaken the skins true beauty. The Deep Cleansing Mask actively re-energises and brightens the skin as it draws out impurities. The Queen of Hungary Mist gives a hydrating energising burst. The Thermal Cleansing Balm removes impurities or make-up without stripping the skin. The Cleansing Foam leaves skin clean and refreshed and the Balancing Moisturiser provides long-lasting hydration.

Jane Iredale In the Blink of a Smoky Eye Kit is a limited edition, modern eye shadow palette developed to create quick and easy looks for every event of the season. Bone is a matte, creamy nude, Pure Gold is a shimmery, bright gold while Dawn is a shimmery, rose brown. Rose Gold is also a shimmery hue while Iris is a matte, cool violet. Forest is a deep green matte shade and Double Espresso is a matte, cool brown. Ebony, a matte pure black colour completes the kit which also bears instructions for the user on how to create several party looks.


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Germaine de Capuccini This opulent looking collection contains three bestsellers from Germaine de Capuccini. Excel Therapy O2 Essential Youthfulness Cream corrects the signs of ageing, Repair Night Progress Eye Serum, containing more than 60 per cent of active ingredients, will revitalise and illuminate the eye contour, and finally Essential Cleansing Oil will kick start a good at home skincare routine.

Alessandro Alessandro Snowball Hand cream offers seasonal indulgence for the hands. Snowball is a hand cream that has been specially developed for the cold season, which gives hands all the nourishment they need on cooler days. Grape seed oil and cocoa butter make skin silky smooth. Vitamin E pearls melt away as the cream is absorbed into skin, releasing intensely nourishing active ingredients. The fragrance of orange, with Christmas spices such as cloves and cinnamon, as well as a whiff of cardamom and coriander has an enlivening effect, promoting the festive mood in an instant.

Aromatherapy Associates This set features the complete collection of Aromatherapy Associates multi-award winning bath and shower oils. Beautifully blended with the finest, most exquisite essential oils, this precious gift set will offer clients the most remarkable aromatherapy experience, whatever the occasion.

Voya Voyas Limited Edition Christmas Spice Diffuser has a distinctive aroma that will fill the room with therapeutic soothing festivity, refreshing orange and warming cinnamon. Meanwhile its uplifting Limited Edition Spice Candle blends notes of refreshing orange and warming cinnamon with a dash of clove. Voya is also offering a bespoke gift wrapping service.

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professionalbeauty.aenail interview

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Leading ladyRita Remark, global lead educator for essie, talks nail trends and the importance of learning on her recent Dubai visitTell us a bit about your background both in the nail industry and with Essie?I started out in the industry as a make-up artist and while I was building my portfolio, I enrolled in an aesthetics course to complement my work in beauty. It was there that I fell in love with the world of manicures and nail art I had finally found my favourite palette!Once I completed my necessary nail courses, I left the training programme and started work as a full time nail tech. I knew early on that nail art was growing in popularity so I always made sure to practice new techniques and offer trendy and fresh design options for my clients. In my fourth year in the industry I began to get requests to work on-set for fashion and beauty shoots. I also began working backstage, polishing hands for the runway at Toronto Fashion Week. The recognition and attention I started to receive gained momentum, which ultimately led to my being approached by the Essie Canada team within weeks I was named their Lead Nail Artist! Ever since that day in 2012 its been

a colourful blur. I've worked six seasons designing nails backstage at New York Fashion Week, travelled across North America and abroad, polished celebrities, athletes and supermodels, led nail art workshops and even went back to school this time as a teacher. It's been an amazing journey and the perfect preparation for my current global position.

What does your role as global lead educator for entail?As the global lead educator I have the amazing opportunity to lend a voice to the brand. I do this in many ways, some examples being translating seasonal colours into fashionable nail art looks, explaining our products and how to properly use and apply them, working with designers at Fashion Week to create trendsetting

designs for the runway and providing Essie manicures on set for editorial and beauty photoshoots. One of the best parts of my job is getting the chance to meet and work with manicurists around the world. I get my best inspiration from travelling and meeting my industry peers; it's an incredible way to share (and learn!) new skills and techniques.

What trends can we expect to see for the upcoming season?For Spring/Summer 2016, look forward to vivid, saturated colours like Essies Bold Butler please or even a gothic, moody shade like Devils Advocate. Avoid frosty or jewel toned shades. If clients like to wear nail art, opt for subtle graphics, rather than detailed masterpieces. Try adding a simple stripe down the centre of the nail or glitter just at the moon. These add a trendy finishing touch that can be worn for work or play.

What about nail shapes? What's the current look salons should be offering?This season, nails lengths are getting shorter and more natural. I'd recommend offering softer square or "squoval" shapes to clients. A shorter length is great for bold colour and design because it will never be too overpowering.


nail interview


Where do you draw inspiration from? Recently, Ive found most of my inspiration in unique colour combinations. I am always taking photos of random things that catch my eye like wallpaper, textiles, tabletops, posters or book covers. If they use colours in a unique or striking manner, I love re-imagining them on nails. Nail art popularity has reached such a peak that Im constantly on the hunt for something new or that hasnt been done. I constantly strive for unconventional inspiration. Avoiding the Internet and social media is helpful. It keeps my work fresh, not repetitive.

Is this your first trip to the UaE? What have you discovered about nail trends here?This is my first UAE experience and it has been incredible! Similar to the west, UAE nail trends are rooted in fashion. Women want to be of-the-moment with their hair and make-up and their nails are no different! Having a manicure that reflects a current sense of style and personality - that's key!

Nail art has become increasingly popular in the UaE in recent years, to what do you attribute its continuing appeal?It's versatile! Nail art and nail colour in general is a fantastic way to accentuate your personality and your outfit. Because trends are always changing and there are always new looks walking down the runway, it's safe to say nail art itself is no longer a "trend" but rather an ever-evolving fixture in the fashion/beauty world.

You've worked on many high profile fashion shows, what is it like working in that environment and how do you handle the need to be both fast and precise in your work?Backstage is a tightly packed, buzzing and overwhelming environment. You quickly learn that you've got to stay

calm, focused and be adaptable to keep up with the flow. When Im manicuring backstage, I always tell my team that its all about efficiency and only doing what is necessary. The idea is not to provide spa-like manicures, but to quickly problem-solve any minor issues and apply flawless polish. For instance, if the nails and cuticles are in good shape don't manicure, just polish! If the cuticles are dry just add cuticle oil!

What advice would you offer aspiring nail artists and technicians?Never stop learning. Keep up with current trends, be willing to try new techniques and new products. Ours is an industry that is always changing, evolving and improving. If you get too stuck in your ways, you'll be left behind!

Essie has a fantastic and continually evolving line up of products but which are your favourites?My favourite colour changes on a weekly basis (I'm currently obsessed with the Essie Silk Watercolor collection), but I know that I would be blue without my Apricot Cuticle Oil, Matte About You Topcoat and Quick-E Dry Drops. Those three products are my manicure superheroes!


Sonette Van Rensburg advises competitors on what to expect at the Professional Beauty GCC 2016 Nail Competition

Competitive edge

Participating in a competition is by no means an easy task to undertake and can be quite challenging if you are not fully prepared or dont know what to expect. Read our handy checklist to help you achieve success.

Pre-competition planningEntry: Firstly obtain an entry form. Choose the category which best suits your skills and abilities. Do not choose something with which you are not comfortable; you need to know what you are doing in order to stand a chance of being placed.Rules & regulations: Visit www.professionalbeauty.ae and make sure you read and understand all the rules and regulations of the competition thoroughly. It is important to adhere to them, as they have been set out for a reason, and in accordance with international standards. availability: Check your availability and do not plan anything else for that day. A lot of planning goes into organising a competition. Staff and judges set time aside to be there for as long as they need to be and so should you and your model. To execute a fair, unbiased judging process takes time and cannot be rushed, so try to be patient; it is a long day for everyone involved.

Location: Make sure you know where the competition is taking place and what time it starts. If you are unsure contact the organisers of the event. The times for the competition have been set according to a strict schedule and cannot change; if you are late you will not be able to enter.model: Finding a model can sometimes be the biggest challenge a competitor can face, and is also the most important part of competing. Dont leave it to the last minute, and always have a back-up just in case your model lets you down. Make sure that they are reliable, committed, and are willing to be there for the entire day, until after the judging and awards ceremony has taken place. Practice: Practise, practise, practise. This definitely should not be left to the last minute. Start at least four to six weeks prior to the competition. If you have competed before, and have your previous score sheet, use the judges comments to improve on any areas of weakness. Work at perfecting each and every criterion by paying careful attention to detail and being very critical of your own work. Be organised: Make sure you are well organised by preparing a packing list of all the products and items you will require in order to compete. You should be as well prepared as you would be in your salon, so make sure you take everything you need to the competition. Also, take a lamp, as unfortunately the competition lighting is not always the best.


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Competition dayCompetition set-up: Arrive earlier than stipulated, so that you can register and prepare your work area, and use your checklist to make sure you have everything packed out and ready according to the criteria and requirements for the competition.Pre-judging: Even though competitors know the criteria for pre-judging, some may think it is not necessary to adhere to them fully and that they can make up the points with their main judging criteria do not get caught unawares without the necessary items and products. The criteria should not be new or uncommon to anyone in the professional industry and should be standard requirements and practices that are carried out in your salons anyway. Floor marshals will judge competitors on criteria such as: appearance: Whether you wear a uniform or smart business attire, dress professionally and look neat and tidy.Work area set-up: It is important to make sure that all the required products are ready and set out in a neat, professional and orderly manner prior to the competition starting. Products: All items and products should be set out neatly and professionally, be in their original containers and bottles, and be clearly marked so it can be seen what the technician is using. Containers should be clean and well presented, and the area should not be cluttered with unnecessary products or items. Do not leave products open to spill.Safety procedures: Observing health and safety is important to make sure that the competitor is not at risk of being exposed to anything harmful.. We recommend that you wear safety glasses, or even a surgical mask to prevent over-exposure to chemicals and vapours. Use hand-sanitisers and dispose of cotton and paper liners constantly during the


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competition.Consultation: You are expected to complete a consultation form with all the relevant and necessary information.Sanitation and hygiene: Some form of disinfection system is required and needs to be visible at your table. Anti-bacterial soap, spray bottle, hand-sanitiser, disinfectant liquid and soaking unit, implement storage unit, clean fresh towels, salon place mat, small bin and not a plastic bag, any other items to make sure it shows that you take Universal Sanitation and hygiene seriously.Professionalism: Contestants and models must behave in a professional manner throughout the competition. Should you or your model need to leave the competition area, you will be escorted by a competition official. However, your time cannot be made up. Time management: Creating perfectly flawless work in a competition environment is an entirely different situation than when you are in the salon. Planning and managing your time makes all the difference use your time wisely by spending it on the most important aspects of your work that need to be perfected. Judging criteria: Understand and know the judging criteria for your particular category really well. You need to know exactly what is expected of you. These criteria are very specific to each category and are in place for the competitors own benefit. These include the requirements and criteria for the pre-judging as well. As you work check yourself against the criteria that have been given and whether you have fulfilled it or not, and pay careful attention to detail and neatness, this will help to guide you in the right direction.

Sonette Van Rensburg has more than 24 years experience in the nail industry. She consults with salons, spas and training salon professionals in all aspects of nail and beauty technology, basic salon skills, client relations and perfecting technical skills. email: [email protected]

Professional Beauty GCC 2016 Nail Competition1 February Nail Art Competition (prepared in advance and handed in at the event) Perfect Polish 1 1/2 hours 2 February Tip Overlay Competition Liquid & Powder/ Gel- Novice 3 hrs- Intermediate 2 1/2 hrs Sculpting Competition Liquid & Powder/Gel- Intermediate- ProfessionalsCost: aED 180 / US$49 per category. 50 per cent discount if you book by 21 December Register at: www.professionalbeauty.ae Deadline: 20 January 2016

More information and the competition pack can be found at: www.professionalbeauty.ae/compete

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Whenever anyone asks me the secret of my success I always start with singing the praises of my team. Without a good team, I would be one individual trying to play so many

rolesand badly!In any team, its essential to keep the lines of communication

open, honest and consistent. Communicating the goals of

your business will help to bring the team closer together and create a great atmosphere, which will then reflect on your clients and their overall experience.a team doesnt evolve on its own, it needs to be

nurtured and encouraged, otherwise you will have a group of individuals working at their own agenda with little interaction or support. Here are my five tips for effective communication:

Its good to talkeffective communication is the linchpin of any successful team, says Maria Dowling

hold weekly meetings

Put it in writing

Every Saturday morning I call a quick half hour meeting before we open the doors to talk

about targets and if we are meeting them, experiences good and bad and any other events that might have happened. Its important we share our knowledge and our experiences to learn from others. We also discuss what we have coming up for the following week.During the meeting we share any customer complaints (which are rare) weve had that week, discuss ways in which they could have been avoided and more importantly how to ensure they dont happen again.

I have a mariadowling customer service guideline manual which is given to every new

staff member. It covers the process of the customers experience from arriving at the reception to leaving with fabulous looking hair! Its important to be clear on the expectations from the salon in terms of customer service, from the reception area, to the stylists and assistants. When it is in writing, there is no ambiguity.

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Share the trends

One-to-ones are important

Everyone has a role to play in the team

Fashion and catwalk trends, street style and celebrity trends in hair are so important when

youre a stylist and colourist. I have a mood and fashion board in our staff room, which we update weekly, talking about that week in hair! Which celebrity is wearing which colour or style, what weve seen on the catwalk and also what we see on the streets of Dubai. Likewise, if I or any of my team travel, I expect them to come back with heaps of photos and information on international street style, which can help us enormously in predicting what our clients will be asking for that season.

As well as this weekly get together, I have a monthly meeting with each of my stylists,

on a one-to-one basis. We discuss how many regular clients and new clients they have seen over that month, which gives me an idea of how they are building their clientele. We look at the stylists area of weakness and address it.We also discuss targets and client increases (or

decreases!), which product that team member is selling the most of, and whether they (and I) feel they need extra training. I want to see a busy bookings column with regular, repeat clients for all my stylists. This is the only way you can expand your business, in the knowledge that your team are self-sufficient.

How my staff members are interacting with the other members of the team is an important issue. Our philosophy is that everyone is equal in the salon, and each of us helps the other to do a great job. During our meetings I discuss any problems between staff members and resolve issues that have arisen.It takes time and effort to get the information

together for both our weekly and monthly meetings but the results speak for themselves, and our clients appreciate the great atmosphere, slick customer service and highly trained stylists. After all, a happy team is a happy salon.

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Maria Dowling is creative director at mariadowling salon and has been a colourist for more than 20 years. For more information call: +971 4 345 42 25.

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