product developments in manmade fibres: is … · product developments in manmade fibres: is cotton...

33rd INTERNATIONAL COTTON CONFERENCE BREMEN, MARCH 16 - 18, 2016

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PRODUCT DEVELOPMENTS IN MANMADE FIBRES: IS COTTON ABLE TO COMPETE?

Bruna Angel Fibres Consultant PCI Fibres, a Wood Mackenzie business

ABSTRACT

In the last 25 years global demand for fibres has increased more rapidly than population. Population rose by 37% to 7.3 billion people while fibres grew by 124% to 88 million tonnes.

While population is an obvious driver of fibre demand there have been other reasons for the high growth of fibre volumes. These include rising incomes, more affordable fibre, textiles and apparel products as well as changing attitudes to traditional textile products – used increasingly as disposable fashion.

Equally as important has been:

• The development of fibres to meet aesthetic and performance challenges in traditional textile products (such as intrinsic chemical properties, cross-section, diameter, texturing and bonding).

• Product and process innovation in both traditional and non- traditional textile product areas where the use of fibres has facilitated market growth. These include woven and non-woven products in markets as diverse as medical, hygiene, transport, construction and agricultural.

Manmade fibres contributed 90% of the growth in fibre consumption in the last 25 years with volumes rising from 19 million tonnes in 1990 to 63 million tonnes in 2015. Consumption of cotton increased from 19 million tons to 24 million tons in this period.

This presentation explores key fibre and product developments behind the extraordinary volume growth in manmade fibres as well as future challenges and opportunities.

P d t d l t i MMFProduct developments in MMF:is cotton able to compete?

33rd International Cotton Conference BremenMarch 16 2016

Trusted commercial intelligencewww.woodmac.com

Agenda

Textile fibre volumes:» Fibre shares over the last 25 years, today, and a view of the next 15 years.

Cotton’s share slides as polyester grows towards 60% of fibre consumption.

» Cotton still dominant in the staple fibre market, but under pressure from polyester filament and viscose staple.p

As population grows, will cotton keep up with additional fibre demand? The challenge of polyester filament to all staple fibres. The growth of textile applications: MMF in apparel, home textiles and industrial

products. Sustainability: a challenge for MMF Sustainability: a challenge for MMF.


2

Polyester continues to dominate textile fibre consumption

100 World – Fibre Mill Consumption

80

60

lion

tonn

es

20

40Mil

0

20

1980 1985 1990 1995 2000 2005 2010 2015 2020

Polyester F+S Cotton Cellulosic F+S Nylon F+S Polypropylene F+S Acrylic Wool


3

The vast majority of MMF production growth has been in China

World – MMF Production by Region80

90

60

70

s

40

50

illio

n to

nnes

20

30

M

0

10

Americas EE/WE/T AME/Aus S Asia India China/HK JKT


4

Excess capacity at polyester filament and staple 2015

45

50

35

40

s

20

25

30

llion

tonn

es

10

15

20Mi

0

5

10

0Filament Staple

Capacty Production


5

Asia cotton and polyester staple prices

2 5

3.0

500

600

2.0

2.5

400

500

1.5300

Pric

e ra

tio

US

c/kg

0.5

1.0

100

200

0.00

-90

-91

-92

-93

-94

-95

-96

-97

-98

-99

-00

-01

-02

-03

-04

-05

-06

-07

-08

-09

-10

n-11 -12

-13

-14

-15

-16

Jan

Jan

Jan

Jan

Jan

Jan

Jan

Jan

Jan

Jan

Jan

Jan

Jan

Jan

Jan

Jan

Jan

Jan

Jan

Jan

Jan

Jan

Jan

Jan

Jan

Jan

Jan

Cotlook A Index PSF 1.4/1.5x38mm den CFR Asia cotton/PSF price ratio (RHS)


6

China cotton and polyester staple prices

2.5

500

600

1 5

2.0

400

500

o

1.0

1.5

300

Pric

e ra

tio

US

c/kg

0.5100

200

0.00

-05

-05

-06

-06

-07

-07

-08

-08

-09

-09

-10

-10

-11

-11

-12

-12

-13

-13

-14

-14

-15

-15

-16

Jan-

Jul-

Jan-

Jul-

Jan-

Jul-

Jan-

Jul-

Jan-

Jul-

Jan-

Jul-

Jan-

Jul-

Jan-

Jul-

Jan-

Jul-

Jan-

Jul-

Jan-

Jul-

Jan-

CCI Type 3128B China PSF 1.4/1.5x38mm den China cotton/PSF price ratio (RHS)


7

Cotton losing share and volume to MMF in women’s dresses

25,00014,000 Annual US Imports of Womens' or Girls' Dresses, Not Knitted '000 DOZ

20,00011,200

15,0008,400

5 000

10,000

2 800

5,600

0

5,000

0

2,800

002007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015

Mainly cotton Mainly synthetic Mainly artificial Other Total (RHS)


8Source: GTIS/PCI Wood Mackenzie

Incremental growth in fibre textile mill consumption and population

1.4

35

40

1.0

1.2

30

35

0.6

0.820

25

n pe

ople

n to

nnes

0.410

15

Bill

ioin

Mill

ion

0.0

0.2

0

5

1985 2000 2000 2015 2015 2030-0.2-5

1985-2000 2000-2015 2015-2030

Wool Cotton MMF Population (RHS)


9

Final demand for MMF now exceeds that for cotton in all regions

18

20 Final Demand by Region, Total Volumes - 2015

12

14

16

es

6

8

10

Mill

ion

Tonn

2

4

6M

0

Wool Cotton MMF


10

Is there potential for higher cotton demand in China?

40

45 Final Demand by Region, kg per Capita - 2015

30

35

15

20

25

kg/c

apita

5

10

15

0

Wool Cotton MMF


11

End-use mix - % share global all-fibres demand 1990-2025Global all-fibres demand by end-use share (%)

90%100%

A l H h ld I d t i l

Global all-fibres demand by end-use share (%)

60%70%80%90%

are

Apparel Household Industrial

%30%40%50%

% s

ha

0%10%20%

1990 1995 2000 2005 2010 2015 2020 20251990 1995 2000 2005 2010 2015 2020 2025

% share 1990 2025Apparel 69.4% 53.4%

Industrial 14.9% 26.1%

Household 15.7% 20.5%


12

MMF filament growing faster than staple fibres

50

60 World – Fibre Mill Consumption

40

50

es

30

Mill

ion

tonn

e

10

20

M

01980 1985 1990 1995 2000 2005 2010 2015 2020

Cotton Polyester S Cellulosic S Acrylic SWool Polypropylene S Nylon S MMF filament


13

Polyester staple fibre – macro end-use applicationsGlobal PSF macro end use shares % spinning shareMillion mt Global PSF macro end-use shares

9020

% spinning shareMillion mt

NonwovensSpinning

% ( S)80

Filling % spinning share (RHS)

70

50

6010

40

50

300


14

202020151990 1995 2000 2005 2010 2025

Key PSF market segments (ktes) 2015

Market segment % share

Hygiene / wipes 15%Hygiene / wipes 15%

Fillings / waddings 27%

T h i l 2%Technical 2%

Carpets 4%

Home furnishings 16%

Auto 2%

Activewear 3%

Apparel 33%

Volume total ktes 15868


15

End-use definitions – Apparel Textile Product FormatKnitting Weaving Nonwovens Other

Intimate apparel Textile filamentPE, PA, viscose, cotton, wool

Textile filamentSpun yarns (minority)PE, PA, viscose, cotton

Staple nonwovensPE, viscose, minor PP

Textile filamentSpun yarns (minority)PE, PA, viscose

Swimwear Textile filamentPE PA cotton

Textile filamentSpun yarns (minority)PE, PA, cotton Spun yarns (minority)PE, PA, cotton

Sportswear Textile filamentSpun yarnsPE, PA, cotton, wool, viscose ACR

Textile filamentSpun yarns PE, PA, viscose, cotton

Staple nonwovensMembranesPE / others

Textile filamentSpun yarns (minority)PE, PA, viscose, cotton

viscose, ACR

Hosiery Textile filamentSpun yarnsPA, PE, cotton, ACR, wool

Outerwear Textile filament Textile filament Staple nonwovens Textile filamentSpun yarnsPE, PA, viscose, cotton, ACR

Spun yarnsMinor IF yarnsPE, PA, viscose, cotton, ACR, wool

Spunbond nonwovensPA, PE

Spun yarnsPE, PA, viscose, cotton, ACR

Career apparel / Textile filament Textile filament Staple nonwovens Textile filamentppuniforms Spun yarns

PE, PA, viscose, cotton, ACR

Spun yarnsMinor IF yarnsPE, PA, viscose, cotton, ACR, wool

pSpunbond nonwovensPA, PE, PP, viscose

Spun yarnsPE, PA, viscose, cotton, ACR

Ethnic costumes Textile filament Textile filamentSpun yarnsPE, PA, cotton

Spun yarnsPE, PA, viscose, cotton

Diapers and personal hygiene

Staple nonwovensSpunbonded nonwovensPE, PP, viscose.


16*PE=polyester, PA=polyamide, PP=polypropylene, ACR=acrylic. Viscose includes other cellulosic variants.

yg , ,

End-use definitions – Household Textile Product Format

Knitting Weaving Nonwovens Other

Curtains / upholstery

Textile filamentSpun yarnsPE, PA, viscose,

Textile filamentSpun yarns PE, PA, viscose,

Staple nonwovensSpunbond nonwovens

Textile filamentSpun yarnsPE, PA, viscose,PE, PA, viscose,

cotton, ACRPE, PA, viscose, cotton, ACR

nonwovensPE, PP, PA, viscose

PE, PA, viscose, cotton

Carpets / floorcoverings

Filament yarnsSpun yarns PE, PP, cotton, ACR,

Staple nonwovensSpunbond nonwovens

BCF filamentSpun yarnsPE, PP, PA, wool

wool PE, PP, PA

Linen Textile filamentSpun yarnsPE, viscose, cotton

Textile filamentSpun yarns PE, PA, viscose,

tt

Staple nonwovensSpunbond nonwovensPE PP icotton PE, PP, viscose

Towels Textile filamentSpun yarnsPE, viscose, cotton

Spun yarns PE, viscose, cotton

Staple nonwovensPE, PP, viscose

Wipes/cleaning

Staple nonwovensSpunbondedPE, PP, viscose

All other Textile filamentSpun yarns

Textile filamentSpun yarns

Staple nonwovensSpunbond

Textile filamentSpun yarns

*PE=polyester, PA=polyamide, PP=polypropylene, ACR=acrylic. Viscose includes other cellulosic variants

Spun yarnsPE, PP, cotton, ACR

Spun yarnsPE, PP, cotton, ACR

Spunbond nonwovensPE, PP, viscose

Spun yarnsPE, PA, viscose, cotton


17

End-use definitions – Industrial Textile Product FormatKnitting Weaving Nonwovens OtherKnitting Weaving Nonwovens Other

Automotive textiles

Textile filamentSpun yarns (minor)PE, PA

Textile filamentSpun yarns (minor)PE, PA

Staple nonwovensPE, PA, PP

Industrial filamentPE, PA

Light denier Industrial filament Industrial filamentLight denier industrial



Heavy denier industrial

Weft insertion / warp knitPE

Industrial filamentPE, PA, rayon

Industrial filamentPE, PA, rayon

Airbags Industrial filamentPE, PA

Geotextiles Industrial filamentPE, PP

Staple nonwovensSpunbond nonwovensPE, PP,

Filtration Textile filamentIndustrial filamentPE, PA, high performance yarns

Staple nonwovensSpunbond nonwovensPE, PA, PP, high performance

Composites /Concrete / Reinforcement

Staple, filamentPP, glass fibre, steel etc.

Paper Staplereinforcement PP

All other Textile filamentIndustrial filamentSpun yarns (minor)PE PP cotton ACR

Textile filamentIndustrial filamentSpun yarns (minor)PE PP cotton ACR

Staple nonwovensSpunbond nonwovens PE, PP, PA, rayon

Textile filamentIndustrial filamentSpun yarns (minor)PE PP rayon ACR


18

PE, PP, cotton, ACR PE, PP, cotton, ACR PE, PP, rayon, ACR

*PE=polyester, PA=polyamide, PP=polypropylene, ACR=acrylic. Viscose includes other cellulosic variants

Polyester filament functionalities

Yarn functionality can be modified by various methods….

filament/fibre thickness touch/softness, brushability, drape

bright/dullness level appearance (lustre, shine, matt)

filament/fibre cross section shape appearance & functionality

dye-uptake levels standard dye, deep dye

shrinkage

stretch/recovery

strength/tenacity

bulk


19

Adjusting fibre cross-section is the first step to differentiated productVery broadly speaking, cross sections are used as follows:

Trilobal, octolobal, tape, diabolo (ie different solid shapes) alter the lustre (and to a lesser degree handle) of the fabric.A h ll d f ( C l G l) i ll b i iA channelled surface (eg Coolmax, Gcool) is generally about moisture transportation, wicking, etc.Hollow cross sections are used to regulate thermal properties (often to store heat) .Certain cross sections are used in bicomponent yarns to alter the differentialCertain cross sections are used in bicomponent yarns to alter the differential shrinkage of the two polymer components and so achieve properties like stretch, different colour values, etc.


20

Challenge: marine litter. Plastic waste to the oceans, persistent macro particles as well as micro and nano particles

Macro plastics in fishing nets with catch.

Source: ECOALF


21

One solution: recycling

Bale of PET bottles ready for recycling

Source: ECOALF


22

Polyester filament / staple in rPET

50

million mt Share of polyester variants in rPET

45

40rPETVirgin

30

35

85.6%

20

25

10

15

63.1%

95.8%

5

0 4.2% 98.4%36.9%14.4%

1.6%


23

PTF PIFPSFTotal PET

Polyester in apparel - rPET

100% rPET

Source: http://www.nike.com/

20 denier recycled polyesterSource: http://www.eddiebauer.com/


24

p

MMF end-product examples addressing product innovation and sustainability

Nike’s Fyknit athletic footwear: Nike Vapor Untouchable: http://news.nike.com/news/nike-vapor-untouchable-cleat-merges-speed-strength-and-sustainabilityg p g y

Adidas/Parley for the Oceans footwear/Primeknit technology: http://news.adidas.com/US/Latest-News/ALL/ADIDAS-AND-PARLEY-FOR-THE-OCEANS-SHOWCASE-SUSTAINABILITY-INNOVATION-AT-UN-CLIMATE-CHANGE-EVENT/s/f66a1b3e-8a9f-48b5-825f-63ddc72c09e7

Aquafil ECONYL ® http://www.econyl.com/

Unifi REPREVE http://repreve.com/G S f f RadiciGroup MERMAIDS challenge – mitigation of the migration of micro and

nano-particles from synthetic textiles during laundering http://www.radicigroup.com/en/news-media/news/radicigroup-and-cnr_ismac-biella-take-up-the-mermaids-challenge-commitment-to-environmental-sustainability-3041330413

ECOALF http://ecoalf.com/us_en/about/

Tamicare http://www.tamicare.com/

Bio-raw materials for MMF.


25

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product developments in manmade fibres: is … · product developments in manmade fibres: is cotton...

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