prime philadelphia june
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Chef Justin Bogle,
the New Man on Walnut Street… June, 2013
About Us…
I see Prime Philadelphia as a program about
Philadelphia “Spots”. Not all Spots are created
equally. Chef Jose Garces has seven Spots in
Downtown Philadelphia and they are all great.
There are Spots to embrace, and there are spots to
avoid. We plan to be about the ones to
“Embrace”. Philadelphia is on a roll, and the
current issue adds two more outstanding New
York chefs returning to our area of the world.
Enjoy! …Bob Bickell
The Restaurant Report by Bob Bickell
Le Bec-Fin (Closing)
Interview – Chef Justin Bogle & Chef
Christopher Lee – Chef Bernard, NYC
“Have no fear of perfection – You’ll never
reach it” …Salvatore Dali
I did take some heat in my May Issue regarding
Le Bec-Fin and specifically, Nicolas Fanucci. I
predicted a happy ending for both, and we now
know the results. I did speak with Nicolas right
before I wrote it and he was more optimistic
than ever. I also spoke with a former LBF chef,
and he suggested that they were actually
making it happen.
I have been around long enough to know that
one should never be shocked by any restaurant
opening and or closing. It’s an ongoing process.
My frustration is that I failed to listen to so
many people in the industry that told me there
was no way the new Le Bec-Fin could possibly
make it. I wanted this restaurant to stay viable
because of its history and importance to the
local Philadelphia restaurant scene.
It wasn’t a matter of talent in the kitchen, or
the knowledge and experience of Nicolas
Fanucci. It was simply a case of modern
restaurant reality – the concept is basically
yesterday’s news (everything from their one-
hundred and fifty-dollar French, prix fixe
dinners to the chandeliers). It wasn’t a matter
of George leaving – George had to leave.
George Perrier still owns the building, and now
Chris Scarduzzio is involved. The story goes on
and on. The bottom line…Le Bec-Fin had an
amazing run of 42 years and Chef Perrier was
the man that made it happen. End of story.
I still believe in Nicolas Fanucci…He was simply
in the wrong place at the wrong time. I wish
him good luck - BB
Interview – Chef Justin Bogel
The Chef is soon to occupy the former Le Bec-Fin
BB: You accepted a new challenge in Philadelphia which
means you are leaving New York. One might suggest it
should be the other way around. Isn’t New York the
restaurant capital of the world?
Chef: Keep in mind that I came from Philadelphia and I
am about to undertake an amazing opportunity in terms
of replacing a world-wide establishment in Le Bec-Fin.
I spent seven fabulous years in New York and I know
what they mean when they say “if you make it here, you
can make anywhere”. I believe I made it in New York, so
my new challenge is to make it my hometown. It works
for me.
BB: No one can argue that. Your two Michelin Awards
from Gilt are all one has to know. It still has to be
difficult to walk away from the Big Apple.
Chef: My first reaction when I was offered the job in
Philadelphia was that I didn’t want to be involved with
the so-called reincarnation of Le Bec-Fin. I have so much
respect for this place, and I remember celebrating my 16th
birthday in this incredible restaurant. I believe the
experience of that memorable meal had something to do
with the direction of my career.
BB: Let’s talk career, and one could argue that based on
your age, your career is still in the beginning stages.
Chef: The restaurant business is a people business and I
had the good fortune of being around some very
important people right after I finished culinary school at
the Restaurant School at Walnut Hill College. I was 19 or
20 years-old and I got a job as a sous chef at Alma de
Cuba on Walnut Street in Philadelphia. It was very
interesting because how many young people start their
journey under two incredible chefs – Chef Douglas
Rodriguez and the soon to be famous Jose Garces.
My really big break came later when I moved over to
Striped Bass and worked with Chef Christopher Lee. He is
a truly great chef and an equally great teacher. I learned
so much from him while working in a classic spot like the
Striped Bass, and in my final year there we received a 4-
Bell revue from the Philadelphia Inquirer.
Chef Lee left for an executive chef position at Gilt in New
York, and in 2006, he asked me to join him. Two years
later I became the executive chef and fortunate enough
to grab two Michelin Awards. I now find myself awaiting
a return to Philadelphia.
BB: While your restaurant will not officially open until
early fall, I’m guessing that you know exactly what you
plan to do, and that would be to a large degree precisely
what you did at Gilt.
Chef: You are correct, and I am more excited than ever to
get going. It will be a modern American concept, and I
will continue to work with local farmers and so many of
the purveyors from my days in New York. Chef Chris
Scarduzio will be involved, and I am excited to be working
with him. It feels good to be coming home.
Grilled Baby Octopus, Tomato Confit, Spring Garlic
Celery, and Espelette Pepper…
Food by Chef Justin Bogel - Photo by Vicky Wask.
Chef Christopher Lee
There are times when a concise bio speaks for
itself… (photo by Steve Lagato)
2005: Selected as James Beard “Rising Star Chef of the Year” 2006: Selected as one of Food and Wine’s “Best New Chefs” 2008: 2 Michelin Star rating for Gilt in New York City 2008: As Executive Chef re-launched Charlie Palmer’s “Aureole”
2009: Awarded Michelin Star for Aureole 2009: Selected to participate in Top Chef Masters 2009: Earned unprecedented 29 point food rating from Zagat 2010: Opened Eden South Beach (Miami, FL) 2011: Opened Huntington Social (Huntington, NY) 2012: Launched Iki Sake 2013: Opened Sophia's (Philadelphia, PA)
Christopher Lee is one of the top chefs in America, and
our story really begins in 2004 when the good chef was in
the kitchen of Stephen Starr’s Striped Bass. A young
Restaurant School graduate showed-up in his kitchen and
basically, he taught the kid how to cook.
BB: Justin Bogle gives you tons of credit for helping him
develop into the chef he is today.
Chef Lee: I love what I do, and I have always tried to help
young people whenever possible. Back in the Striped
Bass days, Justin was a bit rough around the edges, but I
immediately knew that this kid was serious about his
career. His passion and commitment was second to
none. He worked as hard as anyone I have ever been
around. I remember telling him that he had a great
future, but I had to teach him how to cook. Justin was
anxious to learn and obviously he has become a great
chef. Justin became successful because he wanted to be.
BB: So successful that you took him to New York when
you became the executive chef at Gilt.
Chef Lee: His mother hated me for that. She wanted
him to stay home in Philadelphia. What he accomplished
in New York when he took over as executive chef, and
I’m talking about two years of Michelin stars, was
absolutely amazing. It made him a star.
BB: Like Justin, you became more of a New York chef
and yet you recently opened Sophia’s in Philadelphia.
What was on your mind with this particular move?
Chef Lee: First of all I happen to love Philadelphia. I’m
even planning to move there. Maybe the real reason is a
bit of a change in my direction. I have worked with the
likes of Daniel Boulud, Jean-Georges, and Charlie Palmer.
I have always been involved with fine dining, and I
wanted to do something different. I want to cook great
food in a more casual and affordable concept. Fine dining
is so much about stars, bells, and reviews. I don’t want
to worry about those things anymore. Sophia’s is also
the type of place that the public wants.
BB: Your final thoughts on Justin Bogle on Walnut Street.
Chef Lee: Justin learned to cook a long time ago. He is
back in his hometown and he has become a great chef.
He is back where he started on Walnut Street with Alma
de Cuba and the former Striped Bass. It’s a beautiful
thing and a great story.
Sophia’s
1623 East Passyunk Ave. – 215-238-1920
www.sophiasphilly.com
A visit to Chef Bernard’s Paname…
There are situations in this business where the owner is
more important than the restaurant. Bernard Ros is the
restaurant, and for the last forty-some years he has
been doing what he always does – running a very
delightful spot somewhere on the planet. Most
recently, that restaurant was called Meli Melo in New
York that lasted a delightful 17 years. The equally
delightful Paname just opened, and you know by
definition that it will be great.
You know the food (of the French bistro variety) will be
affordable and very, very good, and there will be fresh
flowers on your table. You also know that Bernard will
be there because he is always there. If you stay until
2AM, Bernard will still be doing something. The good
chef might be working the kitchen; he might be behind
the bar; and he might be sitting with you at your table.
The man knows the concept of hospitality, and so many
dine in his restaurant simply to see Bernard. He named
his new spot “Paname.” It’s my recommendation for
your next dining experience in New York.
1068 2nd Avenue – 212-207-3737
www.panamenyc.com
Prime Spots - Tauscher Chocolates
of Switzerland
Classic Champagne Truffles
As the signature chocolate of Teuscher, the Champagne
Truffle creates an upscale gift for any event or
celebration. A bit of Dom Perginon champagne creme is
surrounded by rich, dark chocolate ganache coated in
smooth milk chocolate and lightly finished with
confectioners’ sugar. The Shops at the Bellevue - 200 S. Broad Street - 215-546-7600
www.teuscherphiladelphia.com
Prime Spots – CapoGiro Gelato
and Sorbetto
One of the classic spots in all of Philadelphia. 13th
Street comes alive with fabulous restaurant
concepts, and so many of the people who dine in
this area come to CapoGiro for dessert. This spot is
open until 1AM on Friday & Saturday, and 11:30 on
every other day. My favorite – TheChampagne
Mango.
www.capogirogelato.com
Prime Spots-HIPCityVeg www.HipCityVeg.com
There is a substantial audience that seeks healthy food.
These are the folks that stand in line on a daily basis at the
wildly successful HipCityVeg at 127 South 18th Street.
They are successful simply because the know how to
make healthy food actually delicious, and that’s not
always easy to do.
Prime Arts
Presents
The Art of Jerry Pinkney
June 28th thru September 22nd…
Mr. Pinkney is a native of Philadelphia who
studied at the Philadelphia College of Art (now the
University of the Arts). He has been illustrating
children’s books since 1964 and is a five-time
winner of the New York Times “Award for Best
Illustrated Books”.
PRIME TRAVEL North Carolina's Crystal Coast…
Here’s the good news – you don’t have to fly. It’s only a short (but interesting) drive from Downtown Philadelphia (a mere 503 miles). And North Carolina's Crystal Coast has something special for every member of the family. One can stroll the streets of Beaufort (America’s Coolest Small Town by Budget Travel) and savor “fresh from the docks” seafood sensations. This authentic "coastal experience" features waters of crystalline purity bordering sandy, sparkling beaches and allows visitors to let their imagination run free.
Dangling like a delicate strand of pearls off the coast of North Carolina, the favored Atlantic beach destination of generations represents one of the only remaining natural barrier island systems in the World. The Islands are strung together with 85 miles of silken coastline along the Southern Outer Banks, 56 miles of which are in the protected Cape Lookout National Seashore.
From luxury to economy, travelers to the Crystal Coast who wish to live like millionaires on an “average Joe’s” budget have the opportunity to rent and relax in one of many opulent homes dotting the coastline. These deluxe digs range from quaint beach cottages to mammoth beach mansions known locally as “sand castles,” with grand names like Seas the Day and Camelot by the Sea, combining coastal Carolina charm interiors with the comforts of home for an authentic "coastal experience."
Take time to relax and simply enjoy the view. There is everything you want (including a bevy of fabulous bars and restaurants).
North Carolina’s Crystal Coast…
Visit www.crystalcoastnc.org.
_____________________________________________________________________________________
www.PrimePhiladelphia.com
Miss Doreen Taylor
We met this talented young lady at the World Café Live.
It was an exhilarating performance and perhaps a look
into the future of a major-league star. This South Jersey
resident has it all, and while very few actually get a taste
of the big-time, Doreen and her music (from country to
rock) is well on her way. www.doreentaylormusic.com
77 & Still Rockin’…
Mr. Charlie Gracie by Bob Bickell
You gotta love this guy. He grew up in South Philly
and he never forgot where he came from. His real
success came as a great father and husband, and he
even had a street in Wildwood named after him.
A Quote from the man…
“I never thought of me as anything. I just sing and I play
the guitar. I think I do it fairly well because I never could
have survived all these years in the business. I never
claimed to be the best or the greatest at anything. I just
go out there and do what I do and the people seem to
like it.”
I spoke to Charlie and it was like talking to a friend. He
told me how it all started…
“My father worked at the Stetson Hat Company and I can
remember the day he took me to South Street to buy a
suit. I was ten-years old, and he surprised me by not
buying the suit, but buying a musical instrument. He told
me that I had to learn music or I would be doomed to
end-up working in a factory.”
“I wanted a trumpet, but he insisted on a guitar. He told
me that if I played the guitar, I didn’t need anyone else.
It would just be me and the guitar.”
Charlie hit the big-time in the early 1950’s with a song
called Butterfly and he became the first rock & roll star to
come out of Philadelphia.
Over the years he became more popular in London than
he was in the United States. Of course, it helped that
Paul McCartney and the Beatles loved his music, and
every year he still returns.
“It’s not an easy business, and many years ago I came to
the realization that while I could make a living as a
musician even though I would be playing the clubs
instead of Madison Square Garden. I wish I had a few
million in the bank, but that wasn’t meant to be. I pay
my bills and I’m still married to the same woman that I
married some fifty-five years ago. It’s never been about
the money – I would play my music for free, and I have
done that. I still need to make a living, and I still love
what I do.”
“It was a thrill for me to have a bronze plaque on the
Wall of Fame on Broad Street, and I’m smart enough to
know that I will have my name on my own tombstone.
Not bad for a street kid from South Philly. I wasn’t a
Frank Sinatra, but I did do it my way!”
www.charliegracie.com
“To me, life without veal stock, pork fat,
sausage, organ meat, demi-glace, or even
stinky cheese is a life not worth living”…
Anthony Bourdain
It’s one of my favorite books ever. The moment he
decided to become a chef (page 24 in his book) is a
notable restaurant classic of all time. I even had the
opportunity of interviewing him for Restaurant
Report. Next:
I asked him about the value of attending culinary
school in terms of getting hired in a restaurant.
He told me that he would take a dishwasher before
a culinary school graduate. This answer became
very interesting because soon after the interview,
he was hired as a spokesman for the Culinary
Institute of America.
The good chef was a guest at the National
Restaurant Association, 2013 Restaurant Show in
Chicago, and he made a comment that is worth
repeating…
“I get to go anywhere in the world with my friends
and tell a story about it. I get to get drunk, I get to
curse and I get paid for it.”
In my opinion, he is great for the restaurant
business. Say what you will about Anthony
Bourdain, the man is always interesting!
From the Ocean City Boardwalk…
It’s going to be a fantastic summer at the
Jersey Shore. We know this because
Governor Christie said so. The lady on his
arm happens to be my sister. She agrees
with him. Let the games begin.
The following is part of our ongoing
commitment to help further your education
(courtesy of the web)
ARBITRATOR: Cook that leaves Arby's to work at
McDonalds.
AVOIDABLE: What a bullfighter tries to do.
BERNADETTE: The act of torching a mortgage.
COUNTERFEITERS: Workers who put together kitchen cabinets.
EYEDROPPER: A clumsy ophthalmologist.
HEROES: What a guy in a boat does.
LEFTBANK: What the robber did when his bag was full of money.
PHARMACIST: A helper on the farm
POLARIZE: What penguins see with.
RELIEF: What trees do in the spring.
RUBBERNECK: What you do to relax your wife.
SELFISH: What the owner of a seafood store does.
SUDAFED: Brought litigation against a government official