plano material issues jul-aug-sep 2012 · website manager – nienke wolthoff 214.677.5201...

Material Issues—

Plano, Texas Chapter

July, August, September 2012

Material Issues

It is hard to believe that summer is here already. School is out and many of

you are planning vacations. Since school is out, that brings an opportunity for

me to teach summer sewing camps. Kids are so eager to learn that I have had

to add to the camps I had originally on the schedule. In many ways kids are

easier to teach because they are eager and they are not afraid to try new

things.

I am excited for August to be here because that brings an opportunity for us to

attend a sewing camp of sorts, ASG conference in Houston. It is not too late to

sign up. It is a great place to take classes from many educators who do not

come to Texas very often. But even if you cannot go to ASG conference, you

can still continue your sewing education right from the comfort of your own

home or even on the road while traveling.

Technology has brought learning to us at our convenience. When you travel,

take along a sewing book or take those DVD’s that you may not have time to

watch during your normal busy lifestyle. It is even easy to incorporate a small

amount of sewing education in our busy lifestyles daily. I subscribe to many

sewing blogs. Most of them do not come daily, but I do read one or two a week.

If you have a favorite sewing website or blog, please share them with us

through a review in the newsletter. I have included an article in this newslet-

ter that references a blog that I really like, “Sew Daily.” (see page 2 of this

newsletter) Sometimes it is just some small tidbit of information that can

spark our creativity.

And of course, after summer, comes fall. I am not trying to rush the seasons,

but want to remind you that our Annual Luncheon and Elections will be in

October. In this newsletter is a call for nominees for Chapter Advisory Board

positions. Is there a member in your Neighborhood Group who could do a good

job as a CAB member? Or would you like to serve our Chapter in some capac-

ity? Please think about it and let Maggie Tinnin know at [email protected].

If you are interested in helping with the luncheon, please let me know.

Becky Bieri

President’s Corner Volume 9, Issue 3

Submissions and ideas from members are always welcome. Please send articles, websites, photos, book reviews & pattern reviews to

our newsletter editor, Ann Lau, at [email protected]. These articles can be sent at any time. Please send your information right

away before it slips your mind! Deadline for submissions: two weeks prior to each quarter

Material Issues is published quarterly by the American Sewing Guild, Plano Chapter

Inside this Issue

Article-Muslin 2 Advisory Board (CAB) 3 Free E-book 3 Mystery Picture 3 Elections 4 ASG National 5 Upcoming Events 6 Nancy’s Pick 6 Charity Sewing 7-8 Article-Polyester Rugs 8 Member Highlight (M.Fredrickson) 9 Websites 10 Scissor Folklore 11 NG Monthly Meetings 12 NG Programming 13-17 Article-Perfect Projects 18 Article-The Art of Sewing 19 Article-History of Sewing Machines 20-21 National Sewing Month 21 Article-Enjoy Sewing Process 22 Membership Discounts 23-24 For Sale 25 Sewing Professionals 26

“May your bobbin always be full.”

- Author unknown

Welcome to our newest members…

• Karen Neal

• Ann Steffes

• Virginia Stein

• Grace Smith

• Rupa Janardan

• Alma Cone

Coming Soon!

A new and exciting

Plano Chapter ASG

website, designed by

Nienke Wolthoff.

Some of us have had a

sneak peak and we think you will

be very pleased.

NEW IN YOUR NEWSLETTER: Watch for the many links included to take you directly to websites!

Material Issues—

Make a Down-and-Dirty Muslin, Really!

Written by Stitch Magazine editor Amber Eden and originally published on SewDaily.com,

copyright 2012 Interweave Press, LLC.

I will be the first person to raise my hand when asked if I am one of those sewing rebels who resists

making a muslin, or test garment. Part of the problem is that I am pretty close to a standard pattern

size, so I know the adjustments I have to make, and they are the same every time. But that doesn't

mean I am without fitting issues. I have a shorter torso than standard patterns so any garment with a back (which is to

say all patterns except skirts and pants) will have loose fabric at the back and I need to adjust for that or be very un-

happy with the hunchback results. It's not an easy adjustment to make without a muslin, so there you are.

The best laid plans ... my original vision.

Since I've started studying patternmaking seriously, I have developed a different relationship

with muslins, because that's what flat patternmaking is all about. You draft the pattern on paper

with measurements and hope against all hope that you didn't make a mistake, because the next

step is making a test muslin and all of your mistakes will be immediately evident once you throw

your muslin on the dress form. In fact, the flat pattern to muslin and back again is such a long

process that it makes the sewing of the garment looks like child's play in comparison.

I have been working on designing a dress for the Stitch Fall 2012 issue, which means making an

illustration, drafting the pattern, and, of course, making the muslin. In the process, I learned a

few muslin life lessons:

A muslin needs only one arm!

1) Making a muslin is fast work. Seriously!

As you can see from the dress on the form, my muslin has only one arm, because you only need one

to check the fit! There are no facings and no hemline. It just has a pin in the hem where I want to

raise the hemline and it's made from a similar, cheap version of the final fabric I will be using,

which in this case is a sturdy wool jersey. I know it doesn't look like much, but I don't need it to. I

cut it out and stitched it together in a little more than an hour, using any old thread and sewing as

fast as I could with little eye to making it pretty. But oh, the heartache that hour of time will save

me.

2) Happy mistakes can be the best design solutions.

The dress was originally designed to have a smooth, dart-less waistline, but in the drafting process I had made the skirt

waist bigger than the bodice. I could go back and adjust the pattern, but instead I added two tucks to the front skirt

panel, which I really liked. I also realized that my armhole had much too much ease, but when I turned those into sleeve

cap gathers, I really liked the result and kept it.

The bust dart is way too long, but the armhole and shoulder fit nicely!

3) Find a buddy

While trying a dress on a form is nice and easy, there is nothing like seeing it on a real person. The

garment doesn't have to fit exactly or be made for your fitting model. You just need to make sure that

it's functional as a garment on a human body. For instance, when my friend tried on the muslin, I dis-

covered that a side zipper would have to be ridiculously long to accommodate going over the head. As

much as I liked this vintage touch, I went with a long, invisible back zip instead. I could also see very

clearly that the French dart was way too long, causing a point at the apex. That dart will definitely be

shortened and will be an easy fix.

If you are a sewing rebel who hates making muslins, I hope you will reconsider. But then again, I had to learn the hard

way for being so hard-headed!

Happy stitching!

Amber

Material Issues—

President – Becky Bieri

972.679-2609 [email protected]

First Vice President – Melanie Fredrickson

214.926.6458 [email protected]

Second Vice president – Markita Gumble


Community Service Chair – Jane Johnson


Historian – Melanie Fredrickson


Treasurer – Carol Hamilton


Secretary—Mary Jo Forbes


Membership Chair – Debby Bowles


Website Manager – Nienke Wolthoff


Region 2 Representative – Jodell Larkin


Newsletter Editor – Ann Lau


Retail Liaison - Joyce Jackson


Plano Chapter Advisory Board—2012

The Plano Chapter Advisory Board (CAB) meetings are held bi-monthly after the Chapter

meeting. The first meeting is January each year. All Neighborhood Group Leaders and other

members are encouraged to attend to stay current on CAB decisions. Email or call Becky Bieri

at 972.679.2609, [email protected] for location and actual meeting dates.

For a free E-book, copy and paste the link below into your browser and fol-

low the directions on this page to download your free copy.

http://www.sewdaily.com/Sewing-Accessories/?a=swe120615

How to Sew a Scarf, Choker and Apron Pattern:

Free Collection of Designs for Sewing Accessories What could be better than sewing accessories to fit your unique style, and

having the control to customize as you please?

Your super sleuth detective did not find any

“Did you know…” tidbits for this newsletter,

but she did find this picture of a member.

Do you know who this is?

Email me at [email protected] with your

answer

Material Issues—

IT’S ALMOST ELECTION TIME!

By Maggie Tinnin

No, I am not talking about the Democrats and the Republicans; I am here to discuss the

Plano Chapter of the American Sewing Guild. As the majority of our members know and

for you new members, elections for our CAB (Chapter Advisory Board) are held at our An-

nual Chapter Meeting each October. The CAB ensures the Chapter is in compliance with ASG National

Headquarters requirements and represents the interests of the members of the Plano Chapter.

A slate of candidates is being assembled, and we welcome any additional candidates to run for any of the

five elected offices described below. All positions require a one-year commitment and a commitment to

attend bi-monthly CAB meetings. There are also volunteer positions that are appointed by the CAB.

Please express your interest to Maggie Tinnin, Election Chairperson, @ [email protected] before

August 10th. A proxy ballot will be published in the October newsletter.

ELECTED POSITIONS

President – Overall responsibility for chapter business and activities; Oversees Chapter activities and

encourages participation of Chapter members in running the Chapter; Chairs CAB meetings; Submits

reports, plans budget, and stays abreast of info disseminated by National ASG Headquarters; Attends

conference to represent Chapter; must currently be serving on the Chapter Advisory Board

1st Vice President – Coordinates with President on Chapter activities; Serves as President when the

President is unavailable; Signature on bank account; may hold another appointed CAB position.

2nd Vice President - Serves as President when the President and 1st VP are unavailable; may hold an-

other appointed CAB position.

Secretary – Records and maintains minutes of meetings; chapter correspondence.

Treasurer - Financial record keeping; bill payment; quarterly reports to National ASG.

APPOINTED POSITIONS

Membership – Maintains current membership info in conjunction with ASG Headquarters. Distributes

updates to members. Experience with MS Excel and email desirable.

Special Events/Education – Plans at least one program or event per year. Oversees program-

planning initiatives. Interfaces with guest speakers and facility coordinators.

Community Service – Organizes community service projects and service days. Serves as liaison to

community groups and Neighborhood Groups (NG) for need and distribution of outreach items. Collects

community service hours and information from ASG members and files Community Service reports with

ASG Headquarters.

Retail Liaison – Solicits discount agreements and advertisement revenue from retailers. Periodically

visits retailers to renew ad and discount agreements.

NG (Neighborhood Group) Coordinator – Functions as liaison between CAB & NG leaders to keep

them current on CAB issues. Assembles information on NG schedules to coordinate with Newsletter

Editor and Website Manager.

Newsletter Editor- Responsible for all aspects of the designing, publishing and printing of quarterly

newsletter. Desktop publishing skills and experience working with electronic images desirable.

Website Manager - Designs, maintains, and updates Chapter website. Computer web designing skills

required.

Material Issues—

ASG Membership

The American Sewing Guild is a non-profit organization

of home sewists. Our purpose is to provide information, edu-

cation and programs for our members and the community.

• Membership in the Guild is open to the public.

• Membership in the American Sewing Guild is $50 for

new members, $45 for renewing members.

• Change of Address Don’t miss an issue!

If we do not have your current mailing and email address, you WILL NOT receive newsletters

or other important information.

• Membership data is managed at ASG Headquarters.

Changes can be made on-line or by mail, using ASG National website or mailing address below.

New members and renewing members, please print the form and mail it with your dues or

you may join/renew online at www.asg.org. Be sure to select the Plano, Texas Chapter.

• ASG OnLine Classes are free to all members. Go to the Members Only

section of the asg.org website and click on Videos and Webinars on the

left. Classes you may have missed are archived for you to see at your

convenience.

• American Sewing Guild is now on Facebook

August 2012—ASG Conference, Houston,

TX www.asg.org

Conference Brochure now available

online

Registration begins April 6, 2012

Texas, Plano Chapter

Material Issues—

Upcoming Events—MARK YOUR CALENDARS!

• The Dallas Hand Knitters Guild meets the first Tuesday of each

month from September thru May at Hockaday School in Dallas.

For more information, go to www.dallashandknittersguild.com

• July 25 Charity Sew, Plano ASG Chapter—Blue Ribbon Quilt Shoppe, Wylie

10 a.m.—3 p.m.

• July 28 Charity Sew, Plano ASG Chapter—Christ United Methodist Church,

Coit & Parker, Plano, 9:30 a.m. to 12:30 p.m.

• August 16-20 ASG National Conference, Houston, TX—Hilton Americas

• September 15 Deadline for Newsletter submissions

• October 27 Annual Luncheon of ASG Plano Chapter, location TBD

• November 1-4 Houston International Quilt Festival, Houston, TX

• November 10 Texas Make It With Wool Contest, Boerne, TX

• December 15 Deadline for Newsletter submissions

• 2013 ASG Conference—Crystal Springs, Virginia

Nancy’s Picks

http://www.nancynixrice.com/nancys_picks.html

According to Nancy Nix Rice, link above, there is “One color that flatters nearly every Caucasian woman” and is “also lovely

on women of color whose skin is more pink-y than golden.” Check out the link above for more information on “a pale blush

pink tone” and consider adding it to your wardrobe.

Material Issues—

Plano Sewing Guild Community Service Report

Instructions:

Fill in the form below using one line per project or donation and give time spent on each item.

Your Name:_________________________________________________Date: _______________________

Please return to Jane Johnson @ [email protected]

In-Kind donation

(e.g. Yards flannel)

Charity Value

Item/Project Name

(e.g. baby blankets)

Charity

(e.g. Newborns-in-Need)

Number of Items Time per piece

The CAB position of Community Service Chair is an appointed position. As Community Service Chair, Jane will coordinate the national

ASG charity project for the chapter; collecting materials and planning sewing dates. She will be reporting community service hours and

donations to ASG national headquarters twice a year.

Our Members Are SEW Awesome!!!

We now have a Neighborhood Group for Charity Sewing. It meets the 1st Friday of each month at Bernina of Plano. Jane

Johnson is the Neighborhood Group Leader. Thank you to everyone who wanted to start this group.

The ASG National Charity Project for 2012 is the Blanket Project. Our Plano Chapter has adopted Children’s Hospital –

Legacy for charity sewing. Many Neighborhood Groups have adopted other projects and some of you just have your fa-

vorite charity you like to sew for. Please remember to turn in your hours and the materials used to Jane Johnson to file

with the Charity Sewing Report to ASG National Headquarters.

Our members have been very busy sewing for charity. Just last month Jane delivered the following items to Children’s

Hospital – Legacy and Plano Presbyterian Hospital.

National ASG Blanket Project

30 lap blankets to Plano Presbyterian Hospital

37 Receiving blankets to Plano Presbyterian Hospital

22 lap blankets to Children’s Hospital – Legacy

41 Receiving blankets to Children’s Hospital – Legacy

Other Donations:

15 knitted nursery caps to Plano Presbyterian Hospital

These items represented a total of 80 hours of your precious time spent on worth

causes.

Donna Simpson is the charity sewing coordinator for Material Girls. Her research has shown a need for the following:

small demise gowns, blankets, bereavement envelopes, and small pillow covers for gel pads. Please contact Donna Simp-

son ([email protected]) for patterns and instructions if you would like to make some of these items.

Our chapter meeting on July 28th will be making finger puppets for Children’s Hospital – Legacy. Be sure to join us.

Last time we made puppets we all had such a fun time.

Material Issues—

The ASG National Community Service Project for 2012 is “The Blanket Project”. The guidelines

can be found on the ASG national website, www.asg.org. We will be making blankets that will

be used in our local community. Jane Johnson is in contact with several different hospitals to

find out what their needs are.

Jane has talked with several hospitals, including Children’s Legacy, which need blankets. We

now have several dates when we will meet as a group to sew for charity.

• The Plano Chapter meeting on July 28th will be dedicated to making finger puppets.

• There is also charity sewing scheduled for the Blue Ribbon open sewing group on July 25th.

Jane will be sending more information on what to bring to these Charity Sewing workshops. I would encourage

you to come if you can. It is very easy sewing and we have a good time visiting.

So please join in.

Remember that fabric of the 50’s, 60’s and 70’s—Polyester Double Knit?

By Ann Lau

Recently, a woman brought in these rugs to the Viking Sewing Gallery in Frisco.

These were made by someone years ago and have been used in her garage for many

years. They are sewn to a backing and are polyester double knit fabric. Note how vi-

brant the colors are after all these years!

They are works of art!

The Blue Ribbon Quilt Shoppe

Mark your calendars and join us for Charity Sewing on July 25, 2012

at Blue Ribbon Quilt Shoppe in Wylie.

Material Issues—

Member Highlight—Melanie Fredrickson

Chris & Melanie Fredrickson

Melanie’s son, daughter-in-law and new grandson

Ben & Courtney Greeley and Landon

Melanie created her dress and jacket from Vogue Patterns. Ben and Landon’s vests and ties

are made from Folkwear patterns. Courtney’s wedding dress was also created by Melanie and

is an original design. All garments are made with silks from Fabrique Fashion Fabrics.

Congratulations to Melanie and her family and thank you for sharing your wedding photo and

stunning clothing designs with us.

Melanie’s Turtles

As many of you know, Melanie has a “refuge” for turtles. Over Memorial weekend, Melanie re-

lease 12 turtles at the Greenleaf Ranch near Greensburg, Kansas. She has shared these photos.

One happy little turtle! Pond at the ranch. Turtle heaven for sure!

Material Issues—

Websites for Free Sewing Patterns/Projects

And interesting Blogspots

Check them out. You might be surprised at the fun projects and patterns that

you find.

http://www.berninausa.com/content-t20120601HD-n852-sUS.html

http://www.husqvarnaviking.com/us/2818.htm

http://content.janome.com/index.cfm/ProjectCenter/Project_Search

http://babylock.com/downloads/#freeprojects

www.craftsy.com/patterns/sewing

www.allfreesewing.com/

http://www.allfreeknitting.com/

http://www.allfreecrochet.com/

www.favecrafts.com/Sewing

www.simplicity.com/t-free-sewing-projects.aspx

www.freeneedle.com

www.allcrafts.net/sewing.htm

www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store

www.free-sewing.com/

www.sewing.about.com/od/freeprojects

www.freepatterns.com/list.html?cat_id=9

www.sewdaily.com

(If the link does not activate, copy and paste the website name above into your brower)

Do you have a favorite site that you use for inspiration? Please share it with us. Send to Ann Lau,

Editor, [email protected]

Blogspots and Websites from member, and Textile Artist, Lu Peters

Member, Lu Peters, recommends this blogspot for Textile Arts enthusiasts :

http://www.marieroper-marie.blogspot.com/

http://www.tziporahsalamon.com/index.htm - Here is a woman with a fabulous wardrobe of vin-

tage clothing. I love her combinations of patterns, colors and the mix of cultures! There is a video of

her wardrobe class on her website, and many more photos of her ensembles.

Leading the Charge Against Casual Style, Armed With Antique Clothes and a Bike -

http://www.collectorsweekly.com/articles/leading-the-charge-against-casual-style/

“One should either be a work of art, or wear a work of art.”

- Oscar Wilde

Yo-Yo Smocking on YOU TUBE. Worth the Watch!

Watch as Nancy demonstrates creating fun smocking accents on scarves, handbags, and pillows using tradi-

tional yo-yo shapes in a very non-traditional way.

http://www.nancysnotions.com/category/video+demos/yo+yo+smocking.do

Material Issues—

Scissors Folklore

♦ The English word ‘scissors’ and the French word ‘Ciseaux’ both derived

from Latin ‘caesum’ meaning ‘to cut.’

♦ If you want to break off a relationship with someone, give them scissors.

They are symbolic of cutting the love.

♦ If you receive scissors as a present, give the donor a coin so the gift does

not “cut the love.” Conversely, if you give scissors as a gift, tape a coin to

the package so the recipient doesn’t have to search for one to give you.

♦ If you drop a pair of scissors someone else must pick them up for you

(but this is also said about spoons, umbrellas, knives and more)

♦ If the points stick into the ground it’s a sign of a wedding.

♦ If the points stick into the ground it’s a sign of a death.

♦ If the points stick into the ground it’s a sign of more work coming for the dressmaker.

♦ Scissors are a defense against witchcraft: hide a pair under the doormat to prevent a witch

from entering the house.

♦ Hide scissors under a cushion to make a witch uneasy in the room so she will leave without

hurting anyone. (The scissors should be open to increase the power of the cross and the iron

cutting edge).

Submitted by Nancy Jones, Manager, Viking Sewing Gallery, Frisco, TX. For more scissors folklore, click

on this link: http://www.bellaonline.com/articles/art59524.asp

My Motto -

No one expects the stamp collector to actually mail letters with his stamps.

No one expects the coin collector to use his coins in a vending machine for soda.

So why does everybody expect me to use my fabric collection to actually sew

anything?

I'm not a fabriholic; I'm a fabric collector!

- Author unknown

As many of you know, member, Terry Jerden recently lost her husband.

To the Plano Chapter of ASG members,

I would like to thank all who sent cards and prayers my way during this difficult

time. Plano ASG is like a second family to me, and I intend to resume my place in the

group as soon as it is humanly possible. Right now I’m in the process of selling my

home and moving, so it might be a month or two before you see me again but rest assured

I’ll be back. Thanks again for thinking of me and offering your sympathy. It was

greatly appreciated.

Terry Jerden

Material Issues—

Neighborhood Group Meetings

In addition to regular chapter meetings, smaller Neighborhood Groups meet monthly to offer you even more sewing and

learning opportunities.

Monthly

Meetings

Time Group Name Where We Meet Contact Information

1st Tuesday 6:30 p.m. We’re Sew Special JoAnn Fabrics

1515 N. Town East Blvd

Mesquite

Jan Guynes

[email protected]

and

Carol Boyd

[email protected]

1st Wednesday

6:30 p.m.

Pattern Master

Boutique

Home of Maggie Tinnin

Call 972.422.8128 for directions

Becky Bieri

[email protected]

1st Thursday 10:30 a.m.

NEW TIME

Toujour! Couture Fabrique Fashion Fabrics Geo.

George Bush Frwyy & Coit Road

Jami Roux

[email protected]

and

Debby Bowles

[email protected]

2nd Monday 10 a.m. Material Girls Plano Sewing Center

Custer & Spring Creek

Pamela Walker

[email protected]

3rd Monday 10 a.m. Needle Nuts Plano Sewing Center

Custer & Spring Creek

Melanie Fredrickson

[email protected]

3rd Monday 7 p.m. Garment Sewing Mary Anderson’s home

Call or email for directions

Mary Anderson

972.233.1659

[email protected]

4th Wednesday 10 a.m. to close Open Sewing Blue Ribbon Quilt Shop

Wylie, TX

Jane Johnson

[email protected]

4th Wednesday 10 a.m. Cloth Doll Making Blue Ribbon Quilt Shop

Wylie, TX

Ann Lau

[email protected]

4th Thursday 11 a.m. and

7 p.m.

Quiltn’ B ‘s Home of Maggie Tinnin

Call 972.422.8128 for directions

Maggie Tinnin

[email protected]

4th Saturday 10 a.m. to 12N Regular Monthly

Chapter Meeting

Christ United Methodist Church

Coit and Parker, Plano

Jami Roux

[email protected]

1st Friday 10 a.m. Charity Sewing

Group

Bernina of Plano

S/E corner of Park & Avenue K

Jane Johnson

[email protected]

Monthly-Sundays

Dates vary

2 p.m. McKinney Group Home of Markita Gumble. Con-

tact Markita for directions

Markita Gumble

[email protected]

Any ASG member may attend any or all of the Neighborhood Group meetings at any chapter across the country! If you are Any ASG member may attend any or all of the Neighborhood Group meetings at any chapter across the country! If you are Any ASG member may attend any or all of the Neighborhood Group meetings at any chapter across the country! If you are Any ASG member may attend any or all of the Neighborhood Group meetings at any chapter across the country! If you are

interested in forming a new Neighborhood Group, interested in forming a new Neighborhood Group, interested in forming a new Neighborhood Group, interested in forming a new Neighborhood Group, please contact: please contact: please contact: please contact: Becky Bieri at [email protected]

Please bring your Show & Tell’s to share at the meetings!

Material Issues—

We’re Sew Special—Neighborhood Group

1st Tuesday of each month—6:30 p.m.

July—Christmas in July SWAP

August—Casserole Carrier, Cathey Jordan

September—Mystery?, Melissa Bates

Pattern Master Boutique

1st Wednesday of each month—6:30 p.m.

This group is open to anyone who has or wants to learn about Pattern Master Boutique. We hope to

have some fun classes on not only drafting patterns but also learning to use the editing features of PMB.

Of course, there will be help with fitting issues also. If you would like to attend

and need directions, please contact Maggie Tinnin at [email protected]

214.697-5503.

Toujour! Couture

1st Thursday of each month—10:30 a.m. NEW TIME

July—Open Meeting. Come and share the things you have learned and talk about things you

need help with.

August—Beading by Louise Schubert

September—TBD Please contact Jami Roux, [email protected] with any ideas you may have

“I finally figured out my body type…I’m an hourglass with some extra minutes.” - From Always Leave Em’ Laughing on Facebook.com

Garment Sewing Neighborhood Group

3rd Monday of each month—7 p.m.

The Garment Sewing group will be learning fitting and construction of pants using the Cyn-

thia Guffey method. They have viewed her DVD and and are in the process of fitting and

constructing the garment.

McKinney Group

Sunday’s, Monthly—2 p.m. (Dates vary)

Sunday, July 15—Review of Martha Pullen—zipper insertion with serger

Sunday, August 12—Purse making with recycled items

Material Issues—

Material Girls

2nd Monday of each month—10 a.m.

July—”Rule of Six” - Join Debby Bowles as she teaches us a formula for insuring our hems, waistlines,

etc. are in the proper place for our individual bodies.

August—Yin Yang Scrap-Bag pattern will be taught by Laurel Iakovakis

September—Techniques from Rami Kim’s book, Folded Fabric Elegance

In June, lead by member, Pam Walker, the Material Girls learned to make pleats using the Shibori

method as well as a hair crimper. The method was taken from the April/May issue of Threads maga-

zine. Member, Donna Simpson, brought her pleating machine,

which is used in her smocking, to

show us this method.

Material Issues—

Needle Nuts Neighborhood Group

3rd Monday of each month—10 a.m.

July - http://www.flickr.com/photos/prittens/6992854321/ Go to this website to view the beautiful

needle felted necklace that the Needle Nuts started in June and will continue in July.

August—No meeting

September—Guest Artist, Liz Joe

In April, the Needle Nuts worked on creating landscapes with felting. Check out these sunsets, clouds

and seascapes...

The Doll’n Dames Neighborhood Group

Dedicated to making cloth dolls

4th Wednesday of each month– 10 a.m.

The group continues to work on their dolls from “Creative Cloth Doll Collection,”

by Patti Medaris Culea, as shown on the front cover.

The group is close to finishing their creations and we will begin thinking about our

next project. Watch for pictures of the finished dolls in the next newsletter. They

are all so unique!

If you are interested in being a part of this group, contact Ann Lau at [email protected] for infor-

mation.

Material Issues—

Plano Chapter Monthly Meetings

4th Saturday of the Month

9:30 a.m. Pre-meeting “Garage Sale”

10 a.m.—Meeting Begins

Stash Sale

Please bring sewing related items you are ready to part with. Members and guests

select items and pay what they feel is reasonable. The proceeds are donated to the

Plano Chapter for future programming.

July—Charity Sewing—Finger Puppets

August—Jami Roux will teach how to make her small and large Sewing Organizers; each one person-

alized to fit YOUR needs.

September—Louise Schubert will teach her “fiber necklace.”

In April, Members, Melanie Fredrickson and Marlene Dreyer,

lead the group as they and other members shared their apron

collections and family aprons.

Material Issues—

Grandma’s Apron

The principal use of Grandma’s apron was to protect the

dress underneath, because she only had a few, it is easier to

wash aprons than dresses and they used less material, but

along with that, it served as a potholder for removing hot

pans from the oven.

It was wonderful for drying children’s tears, and on occasion

was even used for cleaning out dirty ears.

From the chicken coop, the apron was used for carrying eggs,

fussy chicks, and sometimes half-hatched eggs to be finished

in the warming oven.

When company came, those aprons were ideal hiding places for shy kids. And when the weather

was cold, Grandma wrapped it around her arms.

Those big old aprons wiped many a perspiring brow, bent over the hot wood stove.

Chips and kindling wood were brought into the kitchen in that apron.

From the garden, it carried all sorts of vegetables. After the peas had been shelled, it carried out the

hulls.

In the fall, the apron was used to bring in apples, which had fallen from the trees.

When unexpected company drove up the road, it was surprising how much furniture that one apron

could dust in a matter of seconds.

When dinner was ready, Grandma walked out onto the porch, waved her apron, and the men knew it

was time to come in from the fields to dinner.

It will be a long time before someone invents something that will replace that ‘old-time’ apron that

served so many purposes.

NOTE: This poem Grandma's Apron is often listed as "Author Unknown"

but the original version was written by Tina Trivett. Take a look at the original

poem: See: http://withagratefulheart.blogspot.com/2007/07/grandmas-apron.html

In May, lead by Debby Bowles, the Plano Chapter members learned about Color Blocking.

Material Issues—

Make Your Projects Look Perfect Every Time!

Written by Stitch Magazine editor Amber Eden and originally published on SewDaily.com,

copyright 2012 Interweave Press, LLC.

I studied haute couture sewing techniques for several years at the Fashion Institute of

Technology in New York City, and I had brilliant teachers who were working profession-

als. I would love to say that I remember all the amazing techniques I learned, but the

truth is that knowledge without works is pretty useless. In other words, I have probably

forgotten much of what I learned (which is why I took meticulous notes)!

Keep your basting stitches straight and proportional to the project size.

But I will never forget the single most important thing that I learned from all

those classes: Pin, baste, stitch!

It was an adage repeated endlessly by my professors. It was a sure bet that no

matter what we were constructing, whether it was sewing together two side seams,

installing a placket, or navigating a tricky collar, we would be told to "Pin, baste,

stitch."

Having learned sewing from my mother and grandmother, and home ec classes, I

had picked up home sewing techniques, which usually meant pinning and stitch-

ing, with little basting.

But the basting is the critical step and is about the only way that you can guarantee a really well-

made project, whether it's a garment, accessory or home dec project. The pinning is really only a se-

curing step that allows you to baste properly.

I had always thought that basting was a quick, sloppy hand stitch that you executed to tack a sleeve to

an armhole or a gathered skirt to a bodice. But basting is really an art that should be done as carefully

as any other stitching.

I remember so clearly the day a professor showed us the proper way to baste. Here are the steps:

1) Pin pieces together, then lay on a flat surface.

2) Keeping pieces flat, knot a single thread and sew a neat running stitch (see photo). The running

stitch should be straight, and the stitch length should be proportional to the project. Smaller pieces re-

quire smaller stitches and so forth. Pieces should be secured enough to avoid any slipping of fabric.

3) You will want to run the basting stitch about 1/8 inch inside your final seam line so that the basted

threads will not get caught in your final machine stitching and be difficult to remove.

4) Do not knot the other end of your thread when the basting is completed. This way you can remove

the basting stitches quickly and easily by pulling the one knotted end. Remove pins.

5) When the basting is finished, you are ready to stitch!

If you aren't basting on a regular basis with your fashion or home dec projects, try it! You will be de-

lighted with the results!

Happy stitching!

Amber

Material Issues—

THE ART OF SEWING by Arlette Peterson, Historian, “Pineneedles” Newsletter, ASG Placerville, CA—printed with permission

I have been sewing for over 54 years, self-taught, and I have often thanked my Sewing Angels for

guarding me against some silly mistakes...then when the angels went on vacation or were tired of

the slow learner, I learned the “rrrrrrip it” song!

After all these years, I finally got curious about how sewing started, so I called on my very good

friend, the honorable Wikipedia. I found out that, “Sewing is the craft of fastening or attaching

an object using stitches made with a needle and thread.” Well, I think I had already figured

that out.

However, I also found out that sewing is one of the oldest of the textile arts, aris-

ing in the Paleolithic area (Stone Age). The archeologists believe that Stone Age

people, across Europe and Asia sewed fur and skin clothing, using bone, antler or

ivory needles, and thread made of various animal body parts, including sinew, cat

gut and veins…That sounds really appetizing, but you do what you have to when

the need arises.

For thousands of years, all sewing was done by hand, and now, even though sewing is mostly done

with a machine, fine hand sewing is a characteristic of high-quality tailoring, haute couture and cus-

tom dressmaking, and is pursued by both textile artists and hobbyist as a means of creative expres-

sion....right down my alley! Well, at least the creative expression part.

When I was in France, last year, we drove through the city of Nimes (in south Provence), and I was

amazed to find out, that the word DENIM actually came from there…(de Nimes) Denim has been in

American usage since the late 18th century. The word comes from the name of a sturdy fabric called

serge originally made in Nimes, France by the Andre Family. Originally called “Serge de Nimes” it

later was shortened to denim. Denim was traditionally colored blue, with indigo dye to make blue

“jeans”, though “jean” then denoted a different, lighter cotton textile. The contemporary use of jean

comes from the French word for Genoa, Italy (Genes), where the first denim trousers were

made….BTW, during the process of wear, the jeans will typically fade on areas that receive the most

stress, like the upper thigh (whiskers), the ankles (stacks) and behind the knees

(honeycombs.)There are many types of denim, and for obvious reasons, I like

“stretch denim”, that fits my many size changes, and takes on its own personality.

I had not heard of selvage denim, also known as self-edge until I started re-

search for this article. Selvage denim is one of the more expensive denims be-

cause of its durability and self-edge that will never fray.

Shuttle looms weave a narrower piece of fabric ,and thus a longer piece is required

to make a pair of jeans – about three yards. To maximize yield, traditional jean makers use the fab-

ric all the way to the selvedge edge. When the cuff is turned up, the 2 selvedge edges (where the

denim is sewn together) can be seen. That edge is usually stitched with colored thread: green, white,

brown, yellow and most commonly red.

Leave it to American ingenuity. In response to increased demand for jeans in the

1950s, denim manufacturers replaced the old shuttle style looms with modern pro-

jectile looms. These produce fabric faster and wider—60 inches or more. Denim

jeans used to be worn by the very hardworking rough-riding guy…and still are. But

now, they are a fashion statement, and very much Haute Couture, costing an arm

and a leg…even for those with torn and/or frayed areas! For some reason, I have

never quite understood why!!!

Material Issues—

Isaac Singer Machine

Stitches - The History of Sewing Machines

The functional sewing machine caused a riot.

By Mary Bellis, About.com Guide

Hand sewing is an art form that is over 20,000 years old. The first sewing needles were made of bones or animal horns and

the first thread was made of animal sinew. Iron needles were invented in the 14th century. The first eyed needles appeared

in the 15th century.

Birth of Mechanical Sewing

The first possible patent connected to mechanical sewing was a 1755 British patent issued to German, Charles Weisenthal.

Weisenthal was issued a patent for a needle that was designed for a machine, however, the patent did not describe the rest of

the machine if one existed.

Several Inventors Attempt to Improve Sewing

The English inventor and cabinet maker, Thomas Saint was issued the first patent for a complete machine for sewing in

1790. It is not known if Saint actually built a working prototype of his invention. The patent describes an awl that punched a

hole in leather and passed a needle through the hole. A later reproduction of Saint's invention based on his patent drawings

did not work.

In 1810, German, Balthasar Krems invented an automatic machine for sewing caps. Krems did not patent his invention and

it never functioned well.

Austrian tailor, Josef Madersperger made several attempts at inventing a machine for sewing and was issued a patent in

1814. All of his attempts were considered unsuccessful.

In 1804, a French patent was granted to Thomas Stone and James Henderson for "a machine that emulated hand sewing."

That same year a patent was granted to Scott John Duncan for an "embroidery machine with multiple needles." Both inven-

tions failed and were soon forgotten by the public.

In 1818, the first American sewing machine was invented by John Adams Doge and John Knowles. Their machine failed to

sew any useful amount of fabric before malfunctioning.

Barthelemy Thimonnier - First Functional Machine & a Riot

The first functional sewing machine was invented by the French tailor, Barthelemy Thimonnier, in 1830. Thimonnier's ma-

chine used only one thread and a hooked needle that made the same chain stitch used with embroidery. The inventor was

almost killed by an enraged group of French tailors who burnt down his garment factory because they feared unemployment

as a result of his new invention.

Walter Hunt & Elias Howe

In 1834, Walter Hunt built America's first (somewhat) successful sewing machine. He later lost interest in patenting because

he believed his invention would cause unemployment. (Hunt's machine could only sew straight seams.) Hunt never patented

and in 1846, the first American patent was issued to Elias Howe for "a process that used thread from two different sources."

Elias Howe's machine had a needle with an eye at the point. The needle was pushed through the cloth and created a loop on

the other side; a shuttle on a track then slipped the second thread through the loop, creating what is called the lockstitch.

However, Elias Howe later encountered problems defending his patent and marketing his invention.

For the next nine years Elias Howe struggled, first to enlist interest in his machine, then to protect his patent from imita-

tors. His lockstitch mechanism was adopted by others who were developing innovations of their own. Isaac Singer invented

the up-and-down motion mechanism, and Allen Wilson developed a rotary hook shuttle.

Continued on page 17

Material Issues—

...continued from page 18

Isaac Singer Vs Elias Howe - Patent Wars

Sewing machines did not go into mass production until the 1850's, when Isaac Singer built the first commercially success-

ful machine. Singer built the first sewing machine where the needle moved up and down rather than the side-to-side and

the needle was powered by a foot treadle. Previous machines were all hand-cranked. However, Isaac Singer's machine

used the same lockstitch that Howe had patented. Elias Howe sued Isaac Singer for patent infringement and won in 1854.

Walter Hunt's sewing machine also used a lockstitch with two spools of thread and an eye-pointed needle; however, the

courts upheld Howe's patent since Hunt had abandoned his patent.

If Hunt had patented his invention, Elias Howe would have lost his case and Isaac Singer would have won. Since he lost,

Isaac Singer had to pay Elias Howe patent royalties. As a side note: In 1844, Englishmen John Fisher received a patent

for a lace making machine that was identical enough to the machines made by Howe and Singer that if Fisher's patent

had not been lost in the patent office, John Fisher would also have been part of the patent battle.

After successfully defending his right to a share in the profits of his invention, Elias Howe saw his annual income jump

from three hundred to more than two hundred thousand dollars a year. Between 1854 and 1867, Howe earned close to two

million dollars from his invention. During the Civil War, he donated a portion of his wealth to equip an infantry regiment

for the Union Army and served in the regiment as a private.

For more information, go to: http://inventors.about.com/od/sstartinventions/a/sewing_machine.htm

2012 National Sewing Month Sew for the FUN

of It! Contest

What do you consider a fun sewing project? Is it a

new party outfit, a bed for your dog, or a wild and

crazy shower curtain? This year, we’re throwing out

all the stops. No categories, no limitations—sew

what YOU consider fun! Winners will be chosen at

random.

Go on line to http://www.nationalsewingmonth.org/

html/contest.html for the contest rules.

The contest runs from September 1—30, 2012.

What will you do this month?

♦ Teach a class?

♦ Teach a young person to sew?

♦ Try a new pattern?

♦ Create your own design?

♦ Watch a sewing class on-line?

♦ Sew for charity?

♦ Try something new?

Material Issues—

Take Time to Enjoy the Sewing Process

By Becky Bieri

Many of us have limited time to sew and try to make the most of the time we have through using

shortcuts. However on some projects, those shortcuts end up taking more time. When reading

one of the blogs I subscribe to, I was reminded of a couple of places where shortcuts just do not pay

off. Both articles are included in the newsletter and are from Amber Eden, the edi-

tor of “Stitch Magazine” and “Sew Daily”.

For me, one of the most time consuming aspects of garment sewing is fitting. How-

ever, if you do not take the time to measure your body and the pattern, adjust the

pattern, or fit a muslin, the garment may not fit. If it does not fit, you have wasted

all of your precious time and your fabric for a garment that you cannot wear. You

really cannot omit any of these steps, including the fitting muslin. Really, fitting a

muslin does not take much time. You do not have to complete each step as noted in

the article in this newsletter on making a muslin from the editor of “Stitch Maga-

zine”. However, you may want to take the time to complete in detail any of the con-

struction steps in a complicated pattern. Use this opportunity to perfect techniques

you are not familiar with. When cutting out the fitting muslin, it can be useful to use 1-inch seam

allowances for the seams that you would use to adjust the fit of the garment. Possible fitting

seams would be the side seams of the bodice, skirt or sleeve: princess line seams: almost any verti-

cal seam; the shoulder seams; or the waistline of the bodice of a dress or a skirt. If you have used

1-inch seam allowances in these areas, you will usually be able to adjust the original fitting mus-

lin and not need to make another muslin. Then you can transfer any adjustments made to the fit-

ting muslin to your pattern.

Making a muslin also gives you a chance to try out the style of the garment. Check to make sure

the style is flattering for your body. Would a straight skirt or A-line be more flattering? Am I able

to sit and walk comfortably? Do I need to add a kick pleat? What is the best hem length? Is this

neckline or collar comfortable and flattering? This gives you the opportunity to change these

small things and create a garment where you will be more satisfied with the end result.

Another technique that can improve the finished garment is hand basting. See

the article “Make Your Projects Look Perfect Every Time!” At one point in my

sewing I considered “hand” sewing a 4-letter word. If it could not be done on

the sewing machine, I would not do it by “hand” unless I absolutely had no al-

ternative. In recent years, as I have gone on to sew finer garments, I have re-

alized that sometimes “hand” basting can actually save some time and the

frustration of having to rip out seams and sew them again and again. If you

are working with a difficult or slippery fabric basting can make construction

easier. Also, if you are working with pattern pieces that need to be sewn together precisely,

“hand” basting can be very helpful. Now that I realize that basting can actually eliminate the

frustration of having to rip out and re-stitch, I have learned to relax and enjoy the opportunity to

stitch by hand.

As I look back on the garments I have made, the ones that I am the most

pleased with are the ones that I have taken the time to fit properly and also

to sew properly, even if it meant some basting and “hand” stitching. So, re-

lax and grab your hand sewing needles and pin cushion. Dream about how

beautiful your finished garment will look.

Material Issues—

Participating Local Retailers

Please present your ASG membership card at retail stores and thank them for participating in

the ASG discount program. Other stores in the Dallas/Fort Worth Metroplex also offer discounts

to ASG members. Just ask!

Arlington Sewing Machine Supply

308 W. Main

Arlington, TX

817.460.4992 15% discount on all non-sale items. Brother, janome, Pfaff

& Viking

Benno’s Buttons & Trimmings

12300 Inwood Road

Dallas, TX 75244

214.634-2324 15% discount on all non-sale items. Specializes in unique

buttons, ribbons and lace

www.bennosbuttons.com or [email protected]

Bell’s Bernina

103 N. 6th St. (Old Downtown)

Garland, TX

214.634.2325 10% discount on all items. Sewing machines, accessories,

classes.

Bernina of Plano

2400 Ave. K at Park

Plano, TX 75074

Bernina of Dallas

12801 Midway/ LBJ, Ste. 410

Dallas, TX 75244

972.578-9227

972.247-5103

10% discount on all non-sale items (be sure to present your

ASG card before sale is rung up)

Discount includes fabric, notions, embroidery supplies.

Excludes classes, sewing machines, software and cabinets..

Blue Ribbon Quilt Shoppe

102C. N. Ballard, Wylie, TX 75092

blueribbonquiltshoppe.com

972.941.0777 10% off non-sale fabrics and notions. Classes included.

Show membership card and ask for discount.

Button Up! Antiques

Granny Taught Me How

1109 Broadway, Carrollton, TX

972.446.3038 10% discount on all non-sale items. Antique buttons &

sewing items

CompuSew

3237 Independence Pkwy

Plano, TX

972.596.5628 10% discount on all non-sale items

Fabric Affair

339 Dal-Rich Village (SW corner Beltline & Coit)

Richardson, TX

972.234-1937 10% discount 1st Friday of the month (not including sewing

machines, classes, repairs or gift certificates). Authorized

Pfaff dealer.

Fabrique!

3801 W. President George Bush Hwy

Plano, TX

972-943-3400 20% discount

Sew It Up Studio

740 Grapevine Hwy

Hurst, TX

817-514-6061 15% discount on non-sale items, excluding special orders.

Designer fabrics & accessories, smocking & heirloom em-

broidery graphs & fibers.

Hale Costume & Dance Supply

2902 Race Street

Ft. Worth, TX

817-838-7128 10% discount on non-sale items. Retail theatrical fabric,

accessories, ready-made & custom costumes, trims and cot-

ton lace.

Hancock Fabrics -

ALL LOCATIONS

10% discount on total purchase

Houston Street Mercantile

126 N. Houston St.

Granbury, TX 76048

817.279.0425 10% on non-sale fabric, patterns, notions and books, and

quilting items

Jenny Bug’s Quilting & Embroidery Shop

800 Fulgham Rd., #33

Plano, TX 75093

972.979.0688 Ask about ASG discount

Material Issues—

Mr. Sewing Machine

10795 Harry Hines

Dallas, TX

214.358-3549 15% discount on non-sale items

JoAnn’s Fabrics & Crafts - ALL LOCATIONS 10% discount on total purchase

Lucy's Fashion Fabrics & Trim

VanAlstyne, TX 75409

866-554-5829 10% discount with online orders – use coupon code- LOCA-

LASG

http://www.lucysfabrics.com/store/index.php

Nancy’s Notions

www.nancysnotions.com

800-833-0690 Discount Codes:

Check asg.org for current discount code

Plano Sewing Center

2070 W. Spring Creek, Suite 326, Plano

972- 527-7400 15% discount on non-sale items

Excludes machines and software

Pure Tex

2623 Perth St.

Dallas, TX

214.455.9560 10% discount on non-sale items

Quilts N More

211 W. Avenue F

Midlothian,TX 76065

972.723.8669 10% discount on non-sale items. Excludes long-arm quilt-

ing

Richard Brooks Couture Fabrics

6131 Luther Lane, Ste. 200

Dallas, TX

214.736.1922 10% discount on non-sale items

Richland Sewing Center

850 W. Pipeline Road

Hurst, TX

817.589.7020 10% discount on non-sale items. Viking, Brother, New

Home clubs, serger and other classes.

Sewing World

6858 Green Oaks Road

Ft. Worth, TX 76116

817.263.0572 10% discount on non-sale items, 20% discount on non-sale

items on ASG meeting day (2nd Monday). ASG member-

ship card must be presented.

Sewing World of Grapevine

1111 Northwest Highway

Grapevine, TX

817.499.9514 10% discount on non-sale items. ASG membership card

must be presented.

Stitch-n-Lounge

www.stitchnlounge.com

320 S. Clark Road, Ste. F

Cedar Hill, TX 75104

972.291.2551 10% discount on total purchase

Thomas Sewing Center & Fabric Outlet

1515 Town East Blvd, Suite 133

Mesquite, TX 75150

972.681-3996

877.682.3996

15% discount on non-sale items

“The only place where housework comes

before needlework is in the dictionary”.

~Mary Kurtz

Material Issues—

Browse your Want Ads to see what our members are offering for sale or for free.

These want ads are for our Plano Chapter members use only. This will be a place for our members to sell their

gently used sewing machines, sergers, notions. It is also a place where our members can offer items for free

that they no longer use.

All items must be sewing related; and if the item is fabric, it should be in good useable condition with a descrip-

tion of content, size and age. We will need your email address and telephone number so interested members

can contact you.

Disclaimer: The Plano Chapter holds no responsibility for any items bought, sold or offered for free through

the newsletter.

All newsletter submissions, including items for sale, should be sent to Ann Lau at [email protected] by:

March 15 for April, May, June issue

June 15 for the July, August, September Issue

September 15 for the October, November, December issue

December 15 for the January, February, March issue

Hobbylock 788 Serger. With carrying

case and manual. Recently checked

out. Works great.

Reduced from $125 to $90

Contact Ann Lau at

[email protected]

Bernina Transport Trolley, hardly

used. Sold for $200+ new.

Yours for $40, reduced from $65

Call Donna at

972.881-7049

And

this

very

important

advice

from

Singer!

Material Issues—

If you are a Plano ASG member and would like to include your business card in the newsletter,

please send or give your card to [email protected]

Material Issues—

2070 W Spring Creek Pkwy at

Custer

Plano, Texas

972.527-7400

Fashion Fabrics

3801 W. President George Bush Freeway

Plano, TX 75075

972.943-3400

NEW LOCATION!

Blue Ribbon Quilt Shoppe

102-C North Ballard Street

Wylie, Texas 75098

972.941-0777

12801 Midway Road, #410,

Dallas, TX

972.247-5013

2400 K Avenue, #C, Plano, Texas

972.578-9227

PLEASE SUPPORT retailers who provide meeting space for our neighborhood

groups and chapter meetings.

Material Issues—

PLANO, TEXAS CHAPTER

of the American Sewing Guild

11028 Windjammer Dr.

Frisco, TX 75034

Remember!

When you move, be sure to send your ad-

dress change to the National Headquarters

office. Returned newsletters are charged to

the Guild at first class mail rates.

They are not forwarded to you.

American Sewing Guild

Association Headquarters

9660 Hillcroft, Suite 510

Houston, TX 77096

Phone: 713.729-3000

Fax: 713.721-9230

Email: [email protected]

Website: www.asg.org

plano material issues jul-aug-sep 2012 · website manager – nienke wolthoff 214.677.5201...

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