February 2013

The Piñon Press Out and About in New Mexico

This vintage image, published by the NM Dept. of Tourism in conjunction with their Centennial celebration photo scavenger hunt, captivated my imagination. It brought to mind thoughts of the good ‘ol days, back when life was simpler, less hectic, long before smart phones. Could a place like this idyllic country village still exist, locked in a time warp? I truly wanted it

to be so. Thus began my quest across New Mexico for this, and 99 other unnamed locales that beckoned to be discovered.The mystery village turned out to be Jemez Springs, about an hour’s drive north of Albuquerque, and a popular destination along the Jemez Mountain Trail National Scenic Byway. More than sixty years have passed since the

scene was frozen in time. The tree still stands, minus a few limbs, but much grander in scale; the wall is modified to accommodate its expanded girth. The road is now paved; the gas station, repurposed. As for the boys sitting on the wall playing guitar (look closely, you can see them wearing white T-shirts in the shade of the tree)….well, I’m told by a shopkeeper that a few still live here.

Trip #1: Jemez Mountain Trail National Scenic Byway

“Remembrance of things past is not necessarily the remembrance of things as they were.” - Marcel Proust In Search of Lost Time

By Bob Groos, Contributing Writer and Photographer

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February 2013

The Piñon Press Out and About in New Mexico

The Jemez Mountain Trail is rich in cultural patrimony and scenic splendor awaits around every curve. October is especially stunning when the cottonwoods along the Jemez River are in full fall glory. Easily accessible attractions you’ll want to visit include: Jemez State Monument - ruins of an ancient Giusewa (“place of boiling water”) pueblo and 17th. Century Spanish mission; Soda Dam - an otherworldly looking mass of mineral deposits from underground springs block the river flow; Battleship Rock - a sheer cliff rising above the river like the prow of a ship; and Jemez Falls. For the adventurous, a side-trip with dramatic canyon views through the Gilman

Tunnels will draw you up to Fenton Lake. Enthusiasts of a hot spring soak in the wild will want to dip in Spence Hot Springs north of Battleship Rock, or perhaps McCauley Warm Springs farther up the road (and a much longer hike). At spots like these, one never knows who one might meet. I chuckle at the memory of the 30’s something man (“retired” he proudly proclaimed), reading a geology book, who stated his life goal was to visit as many hot springs across the US, and the world, as possible. Perhaps you are not so daring, but still want to experience the thermal waters

Trip #1: Jemez Mountain Trail National Scenic Byway, continued.in the area. Take a step back in time and enjoy a private tub soak at the no-frills Jemez Springs town bath house, like folks used to do before the arrival of indoor plumbing. Alternatively, Giggling Springs offers an outdoor pool (reservations recommended).Farther east on Hwy. 4 lies Valles Caldera National Preserve; hike through expansive grasslands where herds of elk roam in an ancient, collapsed crater. Your adventure culminates at the gem of the drive, Bandelier National Monument. Let your mind wander as you walk up the Frijoles Canyon loop trail; imagine what life must have been like for the ancestors of the Puebloan people who established permanent settlements in the area as far back as 1150 BC. You can be a kid again, climbing ladders and scrambling into cave dwellings. Allow two hours just to sample Bandelier; a full day or more is not out of the question. Check the Monument web site for changing conditions of access and parking. Should you want to spend the night, I highly recommend Cañon Del Rio Bed & Breakfast, an upscale oasis of hospitality fronting the Jemez River (bring your fishing license and pole); relax in the hot tub, swimming pool, or indulge yourself with a soothing massage in the elegantly appointed spa; a substantial breakfast is served at 9am. Evening dining options are limited in Jemez Springs, but the Los Ojos Restaurant and Saloon (Est. 1947) will sate your appetite and quench your thirst.With Jemez Springs as a base, you can explore the Jemez Mountain Trail as day-long drive, or an overnight outing in one of the most scenic parts of the State. Either way, you can’t go wrong. You will surely return.

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The trail as seen today.

Gilman Tunnels circa 1926 and now

February 2013

The Piñon Press Out and About in New Mexico

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Trip #1: Jemez Mountain Trail National Scenic Byway, photo gallery.

Jemez State Monument Bandelier National Monument

Battleship RockBandelier National Monument Petroglyphs

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February 2013

The Piñon Press Out and About in New Mexico

Trip #1: Jemez Mountain Trail National Scenic Byway, photo gallery.

Soda Dam

Los Ojos Cowboy Restaurant and Saloon

October on Hwy. 4

Cañon Del Rio Bed and Breakfast

Bandelier National Monument Kiva

Valles Caldera

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