pdf cruising world

You can own a charter boat p.71

AUGUST 2014

+

Race Around the World p.32

Island Hop while Learning to Sail p.40

CRUISINGWORLD

Easier Anchoring: Upgrade Your Windlass p.62

2014Charte

rIssue

4 August 2014 | cruisingworld.com

CO

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BR

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MIS

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(T

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ER

CONTENTS

Hands-On Sailor

Columns

Boats & Gear

6 Editors Log

10 Underway

22 On Watch

26 Waypoints

28 Point of View

30 Letter from Aventura

78 Chartering News

114 Of Watch

FEATURES

On the Cover

26

62 Replace the Anchor Yanker In the market for a new wind-lass? Here are some things to consider.By Tom Zydler

66 Tips for the Occasional Racer Go ahead and race your cruis-ing boat. These hints will help you improve performance and have more fun.By Gary Jobson

70 Additive Adjustment Think twice before adding a miracle product to your fuel.By Steve DAntonio

71 Own a Slice of Paradise A couple share their experience with purchasing a catamaran for charter.By Elaine Lembo

74 A 38 Special The Dehler 38 of ers fun and spritely performance with a head-turning design.By Herb McCormick

76 New Products Check out our picks of gadgets and gear to bring along on your next charter vacation. By Jen Brett

32 From Zero to RacingA course through the Southern Ocean during the Clipper Round the World

Race serves as an extreme sailing school for a novice cruising sailor.

By Tasha Hacker

40 Unsalted Island HoppingFoggy conditions didnt keep these charterers from

accepting a challenge: Discover how many islands

they could visit during a weeklong otilla through

the upper Great Lakes.

By Mike Lee

46 An Egregious ErrorA solo sailor heads out on a shakedown cruise to

work the kinks out of both the boat and himself.

By Webb Chiles The lush green Seychelles provide a

tropical backdrop for a Dream Yacht

Charter Mojito 82.

Photo courtesy of Dream Yacht Charter

32


MARK PILLSBURY (2)

+ Chartering doesnt have to be all about fun in the sun. This crew sailed Block Island Race

Week aboard a chartered Jeanneau 379.

They took a three-day charter sailing

vacation on nearby Long Island Sound,

which theyd always meant to visit but

hadnt. The weather was marginal but

they still made the most of their get-

away. Their girls, who share an aft cabin

at home, enjoyed each having their own

digs on a brand-spanking-new 37-foot

Bavaria. And the crew happily spent

one day crashing their way to windward

without a reef or a care. Drive it like a

rental, I think the saying goes.

They could easily have taken their

own boat and covered the same ground,

but then, it wouldnt have been a vaca-

tion now, would it? When you set sail

on your own boat, whether for the af-

ternoon, a week or a year, its your sails

that are going to tear, your bilge pump

that clogs, your ill-led line that chafes.

A charter vacation, though, is just

that: a vacation. You and your mates

pick an adventure, pack your bags, y in,

step aboard and go. Its really just about

that simple. Shopping in paradise?

Forget it. Take the provisioning option

and the base staf will have the fridge

packed, the cupboards loaded and the

bar stocked. You want toys? Say the

word and masks, ns, kayaks and paddle

boards will be waiting.

You can plan your own route or you

can wing it. Looking for a secluded

hideaway, rocking beach bar, surf break

or shing hole? No problem, just ask at

the charter brie ng. Theyll ll you in

on the weather, suggest a laid-back or

gung-ho itinerary to suit and show you

what to avoid so youll get your damage

deposit back upon your return. After

that, all you have to do is drop your dock

lines and presto, youre anchored at the

Tobago Cays, snorkeling in the

Seychelles, sitting down to a Tongan

feast or reaching in the trades on your

way to Anegada.

There are as many ways to organize

a charter either on a sail-your-own

bareboat or crewed sailboat as there

are destinations and boats available.

Some sailors have a particular model

they might want to try before they

buy. Maybe you want to learn to sail:

Contributor Mike Lee and his wife

spent a week island hopping in the

Great Lakes aboard boats crewed by

old salts and students taking courses

toward their American Sailing Asso-

ciation certi cations (page 40); both

groups enjoyed the adventure. Perhaps

its a rush of adrenaline that whets your

whistle : Writer Tasha Hacker and her

husband booked berths to race across

the Southern Ocean on 70-foot sleds,

in hurricane-force winds (page 32). Or

maybe you have a particular cruising

ground youve dreamed of visiting with

family or friends.

No matter your ambition, were here

to help. This month we introduce a

new Charter Resources Guide, start-

ing on page 52. In it, youll nd all sorts

of valuable information about charter

companies, bases and brokers who

can help you plan your next vacation.

Interested? You can dig deeper still by

visiting our extensive online destina-

tion and chartering section at cruising

world.com/charter. Click around and

youll nd sound advice from charter

experts, tips on what to bring and when

to go, a wealth of stories about adven-

tures in most every ocean on the planet,

as well as an extensive Charter Address

Book listing charter bases and boats

worldwide.

Chartering can be as simple or chal-

lenging as you want to make it. What

are you waiting for? Get packing.

Curious about sailing a particular type of catamaran or monohull? Chances are you can nd the boat you want at the charter

destination of your choice.

A colleague here at Cruising World who lives aboard her 44-foot ketch in Newport with her husband and two daughters kicked of summer this year with a busmans holiday of sorts.

Get Packing

EDITORS LOG Mark Pillsbury

Sailing Features

The new GPSMAP series1 combined with any of the gWind wind sensors brings a whole new

level of powerful sailing features to sailing entusiasts. Perfect laylines, tides and currents

predictions, enhanced wind rose that simultaneously displays both true and apparent wind

angles, and much more all beautifully displayed on the chartplotter screen. Add any Garmin

marine instruments or use the new wind gauge page on the GPSMAP2 for even more wind data

to make your sailing experience easier and better than ever. Welcome to the power of simple.

For more information visit garmin.com/marine2014

Its time to get serious about sailing.

2014 Garmin Ltd. or its subsidiaries. 1GPSMAP 547, 741, 840, 1040 and 8000 series. 2Not available for GPSMAP 8000 series.

Displays true and apparent wind angle at the same time.

ENHANCED WIND ROSE

Detailed animated view of tides and currents.

TIDES AND CURRENT

Shows you on screen when you should make a tack or gybe.

LAYLINES

EDITORIAL

Editor Mark Pillsbury

Deputy Editor Elaine Lembo

Senior Editor Herb McCormick

Associate Editor Jen Brett

Digital Editor Eleanor Lawson

Copy Editor Kathleen M. Kiely

ART

Director of Design Joe DeLeon

Art Director Manuel Alvarez

Associate Art Director Jarrod Glick

Editors at Large

Bernadette Bernon, Jimmy Cornell,

Capn Fatty Goodlander, Gary Jobson,

Tim Murphy, Angus Phillips

Contributing Editors

Jim Carrier, Wendy Mitman Clarke,

Barbara Marrett, Jeremy McGeary,

Lynda Morris Childress, Michel Savage,

Alvah Simon, Diana Simon

Cruising World Editorial Office

55 Hammarlund Way,

Middletown, RI 02842

401-845-5100; fax 401-845-5180

www.cruisingworld.com

VP, Director of Brand Strategies

Matt Hickman

VP, Digital Operations David Butler

Creative Director Jerry Pomales

Group Marketing Director Haley Bischof

Director of Marketing Elaine Grime

Online Director Mike Staley

Corporate Production Director Jeff Cassell

Production Director Michelle Doster

Production Manager Robin Baggett

407-571-4844,

[email protected]

Design Services Director

Suzanne Oberholtzer

Graphic Artists Julia Arana,

Jennifer Remias

Human Resources Director

Sheri Bass

PUBLISHER

Sally Helme

[email protected]

401-845-4405

ADvERTISIng

Advertising Director,

New England, Mid-Atlantic

& Southern Europe

Ted Ruegg 410-263-2484

[email protected]

West Coast, Central U.S.,

Southeast & Caribbean

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Classifed and Special-Section

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Director of Marketing

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[email protected]

Senior Event Manager

Jennifer Davies

Chairman: Jonas Bonnier

Chief Executive Offcer: Dave Freygang

Executive Vice President: Eric Zinczenko

Chief Content Offcer: David Ritchie

Chief Financial Offcer: Nancy Coalter

Chief Operating Offcer: Lisa Earlywine

Chief Marketing Offcer: Elizabeth Burnham Murphy

Chief Human Resources Offcer: Leslie Glenn

Chief Brand Development Offcer: Sean Holzman

Vice President, Integrated Sales: John Graney

Vice President, Consumer Marketing: John Reese

Vice President, Public Relations: Perri Dorset

General Counsel: Jeremy Thompson

For Customer Service and Subscription questions, such as Renewals, Address Changes, Email Preferences, Billing and Account Status, go to: www.cruisingworld.com/cs. You

can also email [email protected], in the U.S. call toll free (866) 436-2461, outside the U.S. call (386) 246-3402 or write to Cruising World, P.O. Box 420235,

Palm Coast, FL 32142-0235

CRUISINGWORLD

Writer/Photographer Guidelines: cruisingworld.com/guidelines

CW Reckonings newsletter: Subscribe at cruisingworld.com.

CWs Adventure Charters: cruisingworld.com/adventurecharters

Back issues: Back issues cost $5 plus postage. Call 386-246-3402.

Reprints: Email [email protected].

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daVe reed (top); Courtesy of nood team roChester (3)

UNDERWAYNews and notes from

the cruising community

Edited by Elaine Lembo

The NOOD Regatta Champion-ship race committee and Team Rochesters spousal support crew sink their toes into Sandy Cay while they wait for nishers to arrive from Virgin Gorda.

Donna Faust ( left) skippered Team Roches-ters mothership, an experience she says gave her con dence in handling a large charter catamaran. Competitors visit the NOOD race committee boat (above) at Norman Island after racing. Donna Shumway, in gray, with crewmate Jen Olney (right), was the teams o cial entertainment director.

August 2014 | cruisingworld.com 11

Courtesy of nood team roChester (2)

the only spoils of victory he had to show

to his friends at home in rochester, new

york, were brochures from sunsail yacht

Charters and an invitation to the nood

regatta Championship in the british Virgin

islands, where he would compete against

f ve other winning teams from nood re-

gattas around the country.

shumways invita tion acceptance was

easy. the impossible was f guring out how

many friends and crewmembers he could

cram into the berths of the sunsail 44i hed

have at his disposal. the obvious solution

was to charter a catamaran with which to

follow the nood f eet. they could rotate in

fresh crew members each day.

his wife, dawn, had a better idea: the

spouses would take full command of the

cat and leave the boys to their own stressful

devices on the racecourse.

i had always wanted to skipper a char-

ter cat, says donna faust, a friend of the

shumways, who eagerly took the skippers

role. it was intimidating at f rst because

the boat was so much wider than anything

id sailed, but having moorings everywhere

we went made it so much easier.

while faust ensured the ladies lounged

from a to b over four days of inter-island

distance races, shumway kept the party

going.

skip was ring leader, but dawn was the

ultimate planner, says faust. its what she

does best, from the t-shirts to the custom

cozies and all the water toys.

as the nood f eet set of each morning to

its next destination, the racer chasers saw

them of with rousing cheers. they were

always on station at the f nish, with a cold,

ego-soothing beer and a warm, sun-kissed

shoulder to cry on.

theyd come back exhausted, says

faust. it was a lot of fun for them to do the

racing part, but im pretty sure we were

having more fun.

having witnessed the benef ts of a f otilla

of racing fans at the nood regatta Cham-

pionship in past editions, sunsail is of ering

discounted rates for the next edition, oct.

25-31. if racer chasing sounds like a better

way to see the bVi, consider this your open

invitation.

Dave Reed

The Racer ChasersWhen Skip Shumways Sonar team won the 2013 Sperry Top-Sider NOOD Regatta in Marblehead, Massachusetts, he didnt bring home a silver platter.

Pineapple chunks soaked in Mount Gay Rum (right) deliv-er a perfect balance of vitamin C and sugar, proven bene cial after a long day of racing. The Rochester race squad and the support crew assemble for a team photo (below). Smiles

come easily in the BVI.


CCourtesy of Cruisin

g w

orld Community m

embers (2); Courtesy of barry antel (top)

your article on harry heckel in the June issue (underway, harry heckels world) is great, but it would have been nice if you had added in italics at the end that a guy named barry bought harrys boat, Idle Queen, is sailing and rebuilding her and has a website (setforsea.com) and a you tube channel (setforsea). it would be nice if youd get in touch with him hes a very nice fellow and do an article on his adventures with a very well-traveled boat. the piece might be a great follow-up to mrs. heckels article.

matthew fikeVia facebook

Editors note: Barry Antel, who

hails from Sagamore, Massachusetts,

reports idle Queen is on the hard in Norfolk, Virginia, for some much

needed repairs and should be back in

the water by fall.

OK, O the Horse

i just read Jen bretts defense of the Rebel Heart parents and her empathy for the sort of courage and sacrif ce it takes for a young family to stray from the straight and narrow to do something extraor-dinary (why we Choose a life less ordinary, June 2014). please tell her to get of her high horse! no one cares if you choose to cruise the world with your kids and newborns or, for that matter, if you choose to attempt to circumnavigate solo at the ripe old age of 89 as harry heckel did (harry heckels world, June underway). but when things go to hell and the Coast guard or

navy has to come to the rescue, as was required in both cases, then maybe its time to talk more about personal responsibility and less about personal choice. in the end, there is nothing particularly courageous or sacrif cial about what the kaufmans did, or about what Jen brett is doing. indeed, her article smacks of hubris and self-importance rather than the better virtues she invokes.

scott C. solbergVia email

Back in the Day (Sort of )

the article mission improbable by mark pillsbury (June 2014) con-tains the comment, the anchorage f lled with cats old and new, owned and chartered, ranging in size all the way down to the mah 36.when i f rst got into sailing seri-ously around 1970, aside from the fact that a magazine like Cruising World wouldnt have deigned to even mention catamarans, a similar article would have read, all the way up to 36 feet, 35 feet or thereabouts being at the large end of the scale for even serious ocean-going couples.my, how the times have changed.

John snydernewbury park, Ca

Editors Note: The very rst issue

of Cw, in October 1974, had a story about the arrival in Newport, Rhode

Island,of the 36-foot multihull unbound, owned by John Murray. Hed left Sydney in 1969 and round-

ed the Cape of Good Hope. Mul-

tihulls have been welcome ever since.

UNDERWAY Mailbag

P a s s a g e N o t e scruisingworld.com

connecTed?

CW community mem-

ber Maje is wondering

about offshore Internet

access: Ive got one

last thing to f gure out

before we can make

our dream come true

reliable Internet

access. I need to be

able to have at least

part-time Internet ser-

vice that doesnt cost

an arm and a leg while

crossing the Atlantic.

Does anyone have a

recommendation?

Join the conversation

at cruisingworld

.com/1408forum

winninG shoT

The competition was

stiff in the recent

Sailing Sunsets Photo

Contest. After sorting

through the nearly

500 entries, we came

up with 10 f nalists,

which we put to the

vote on Facebook. The

winning shot (above) is

by Diane Selkirk. This

photo is of our daugh-

ter, Maia, watching the

sunset on a passage

between Vanuatu and

new Caledonia. As

the winner, Diane

will receive a SeaLife

underwater camera.

Check out all of the

f nalists at cruising

world.com/1408sunset

year oF islands

About 105 miles south

of Rio de Janeiro,

Brazil, is a spectacular

archipelago starting

in the charming town

Angra dos Reis. There

are 365 islands in this

grouping; the largest

island is the famous

Ilha Grande. Ilha

Grande is known for

its beauty and pristine

rainforest. Brazilians

like to claim that you

can visit one island

every day of the year.

We sailed a 50.4

Cyclades in this area

for one week in April

2014, which was my

32nd bareboat charter

worldwide over 30

years. I would rate

this cruising ground a

7.5 out of 10. What

this area lacked in

wind it made up with

in sailing area; its

magnif cent. English is

limited and unfor-

tunately Brazil is no

longer a cheap desti-

nation; but consider-

ing all factors, this

was a very good place

to bareboat, one that

many north Americans

and Europeans often

overlook.

CW community

member robmacriner

What about Barry ?

Barry Antel, right, and Idle Queens builder, Harry

Heckel, visit on the dock in Portsmouth, Virginia.

a v a i l a b l e a t S p e r r y To p S i d e r s to r e s a n d s p e r r y to p s i d e r. c o m

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Courtesy of the Center for Coastal studies (top); Courtesy of faCebook.Com/C

ruisin

gworld (2)

UNDERWAY

cruisingworld.com

This monTh, we wanT To know: whaT is

your dream boaT and why?

When I win the lottery

(not if!), I want an

Antares 44i. If youre

gonna dream, dream

big!

J.vD.

I would choose the

Chuck Paine-designed

Kanter Bougainvillea.

E.A.I.

Ill never, ever afford

one, but my dream

boat is the Fountaine-

Pajot Victoria 67, and

I dream of sailing

from France to Tahiti

and ending my trip in

Maui, Hawaii. Some-

day ...

G.D.

Im dreaming of a

Redpath 44 steel-

hulled schooner.

C.D.

My dream boat is a

Tayana 37 Cutter,

equipped to allow

single-handing and

with everything needed

to do a circumnaviga-

tion. This design has

more of these travels

than any other design.

F.J.T.

I would like an Island

Packet 440 to transit

the Erie Canal and go

south from the Great

Lakes.

P.O.

An Oyster or Wally,

since we are just

dreaming!

A.D.

A 60-foot all-carbon

Gunboat catamaran to

quickly sail around the

world.

P.C.

Its a Hylas 63 for me!

D.B.

A beautiful day sailing during CWs Adventure Charter in southwest Ireland. S.S.

P a s s a g e N o t e s

Humpback Tail Photos WantedJust like sailors, humpback whales

head for the Caribbean sea when the north atlantic ocean gets cold and nasty. in the warm waters of the dominican republic and the lesser antilles, they breed and loll around until their calves are born. then they head back to chow down all summer in the well-stocked whale refrigera-tor stretching from maine to norway. in a new sailor-science program

called Carib tails, federal research-ers want to exploit this convergence of boats and baleen. theyre asking cruisers to take photos of humpback fukes their tails to help identify, track and conserve this magnifcent endangered animal.humpback fukes are like fnger-

prints. the pattern of white on black pigment on the underside of the tail is unique to each individual. it was such a pattern, spotted on a female nicknamed salt, that established the 3,000-mile round-trip migratory pat-tern of humpbacks from the gulf of maine to the dominican republic.salt was frst spotted on the stell-

wagen bank of maine, now part of a federal marine sanctuary, in 1976, the frst year that commercial whale watching began there. salt has pro-duced at least a dozen calves, which are now part of a gulf of maine sum-mer population estimated at 1,000.

there are approximately 14,000 humpbacks in the north atlantic, thanks to an international morato-rium on commercial whaling since 1986. living of krill and fsh sieved through their baleen, the animals mingle every winter in the Caribbe-an, a process that keeps the atlantic population genetically diverse.the largest breeding and calving

ground is silver bank and saman bay in the dominican republic ma-rine mammal sanctuary, where 3,000 whales congregate every winter.the whales are seen around the

islands, mostly along the 100-fathom contour, said noaa whale biolo-gist nathalie ward from her ofce in woods hole, massachusetts.pressures and threats on the ani-

mals include collisions with ships, illegal hunting, toxins, motor noise, strandings, disease, military exercis-es, climate change, ofshore renew-able energy developments, and loss of habitat and food. sailors taking fuke photos can contribute to criti-cal information that will provide safe passage for humpbacks throughout their migratory path, ward said.

Jim Carrier

Like fngerprints on sailors, the mark-ings on each whales tail are unique.

Sailing past the Porer lighthouse of Croatia. A.P.

Photo tiPs

While a breaching hump-

back makes a spectacular

photo, the fuke is the valu-

able research tool. Use a

telephoto lens, fll the view-

fnder with the tail, and take

several shots. Avoid glare or

backlight. The ideal photo is

the underside of the lifted

tail as the whale dives head-

ing away from you.

Humpbacks are curious

but sailors are advised not

to get closer than 100 yards.

If a whale approaches, drop

sails and shut off your en-

gine. Adults can be 40 feet

long and weigh 45 tons, but

arent usually a threat.

Web ResouRces

CARIB Tails

(www.caribtails.org)

International Whaling

Commission

(www.iwc.int) J.C.

Green

Wakes

T h e e v o l u t i o n o f t h e O r i g i n a l S a i l i n g S n e a k e r i n v e n t e d b y P a u l S p e r r y

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eleanor lawson (top rig

ht); m

iChael robertson (top left); Corie sChneid

er

UNDERWAY

Got Questions? Find AnswersCruisers the world over, particu-

larly women, are often overwhelmed

with questions about the liveaboard

life before they shove of. here are a handful of sites that help you fnd the

answers:

Women Who Sail members post questions of all sorts; ask away! (www.

facebook.com/groups/womenwhosail).

Women and Cruising articles, advice, inspiration, seminars and events.

(www.womenandcruising.com).

SpinSheet: Chesapeake Bay Sailing this online magazine includes

articles by/for/about women, seminars and events (www.spinsheet.com).

Womens Sailing Convention workshops and seminars in southern

California. next seminar is saturday, feb. 7, 2015 (www.womenssailingcon

vention.com).

Latitude Sailing Association this group holds the womens boating

seminar; next one is saturday, feb. 21, 2015 (www.latitudesailingassoc.org).

National Womens Sailing Association workshops and seminars held

nationwide (www.womensailing.org).

Cruisers University/Cruising Women Seminar the in-depth two-

day seminar takes place during the spring sailboat show in annapolis, mary-

land. tentative date is april 23-26, 2015 (www.usboat.com).

Blue Water Cruising Association workshops, seminars and monthly

meetings are held in Vancouver, Victoria, and Calgary, Canada (www.bluewa

tercruising.org).

Anne E. Mott

cruisingworld.com

boaTyard blues

The clanging inside

Del Vientos mast was

driving them crazy. So

much so that Windy

Robertson declared,

Either we fx this, or

we sell the boat. A

tall order when youre

cruising Baja, Mexico.

Read about the Rob-

ertson familys life on

the hard in their blog,

Log of Del Viento.

cruisingworld

.com/1408delviento

aTlanTic advenTure

CW Deputy Editor

Elaine Lembo took a

break from offce life

and hopped aboard the

France-bound Swan

57 Flyer for her frst

transatlantic. Curious

what an offshore jour-

ney like this is about?

Check out her blog

posts. cruisingworld

.com/1408yer

clamp concerns

When it comes to

fuel-system hose

clamps, two arent

always better than one,

says systems expert

Ed Sherman. The

problem is that the

hose barb protruding

from the flter housing

may not have enough

length to support the

two clamps. If its too

short, the more the

clamp gets tightened,

the more damage is

being done to the

inside of the hose as

the end of the hose

barb nipple digs into

the hose liner. The

bottom line is that

double clamping is

only required on fuel

fll pipes between the

deck fll and the tank.

Read more from Ed

on his blog, Eds Boat

Tips. cruisingworld

.com/1408boattips

P a s s a g e N o t e s

Instructor John Farrell demystifes die-sel engine maintenance at a National Womens Sailing Association workshop.

located halfway between Vanuatu and

the coast of central Queensland, aus-

tralia, is a little sliver of paradise known

as the Chesterfeld islands. situated

northwest of new Caledonia, the islands

are really small sand cays and atolls sur-

rounded by many reefs. my parents and i

stopped here to wait out a high-pressure

system while sailing from luganville,

Vanuatu, to bundaberg, australia, aboard

Rutea, our ketch-rigged Contest 48. the

reef at the atoll we visited wasnt an all-

weather anchorage, but was the perfect

place to wait for wind, and a nice respite

in the middle of a 1,100-nautical-mile pas-

sage. with stunningly clear blue waters

and pristine corals, the atoll was easily

my favorite destination in three years of

sailing between san diego, California and

singapore. the lack of infrastructure and

its isolated location make the atoll ac-

cessible to only the most intrepid sailors.

while the sea snakes were overly friendly,

the sharks a little too curious and the

french customs ofcials a little too pres-

ent (albeit only for a few hours), by far

the worst part about being at Chesterfeld

was leaving it.

Corie Schneider

Editors note: read more about Ches-

terfeld islands adventures at the au-

thors blog. (saltyschneider.blogspot

.com/2012/10/chesterfeld-reef.html)

Waypoint: Chesterfeld Reef

Footloose Superior budget sailingin the British Virgin Islands.

855.217.9217 | www.footloosecharters.com


thaddeus b. k

ubis

UNDERWAY

Take a New York Minute or Twothe shores, piers, wharfs

and waters of new york

City are open to sailors of all

levels. the beautiful liquid

passageway known as the

hudson river, originating

in upstate new york and

streaming south to the city,

presents one aha moment

after another, ending or

beginning with the world-

famous skyline of lower

manhattan.

want to experience the

big apple from the water?

throughout the city, includ-

ing the other boroughs

brooklyn, Queens, staten

island and the bronx youll

fnd a variety of sailing

schools and chartering

facilities:

Sailors NYC (www.sail

orsnyc.com) is one of many

The waters around New York City are bustling with marine trafc of every variety: com-muter boats, freighters, tankers, ferries. Sailor are welcome too at the many urban marinas.

boating and sailing commu-

nities that have made a home

along the southern hudson,

or north river, at pier 25.

Ofshore Sailing School

(www.ofshoresailing.com)

Manhattan Sailing School

(www.sailmanhattan.com)

Miramar Yacht Club

(www.miramaryc.com)

New York Sailing Center

(www.startsailing.com)

Sailing New York Harbor

(www.sailnyc.org)

New York City Parks and

recreation marinas (www.

nycgovparks.org/facilities/

boating)

Private marinas

North Cove Marina

(www.thenorthcove.com)

MarineMax New York

City (www.marinemax.com)

La Marina (lamarinanyc

.com)

Thaddeus B. Kubis

shutterstoCk (top); Courtesy of the publisher

three days out of the atoll

of penrhyn in the south

pacif c ocean, en route to

hilo, hawaii, aboard Kauila,

our passport 40, we were

miles from shipping lanes

or any sign of land even a

booby f ying by would have

been a thrill. suddenly, a

voice burst into our medita-

tive space, blaring the exact

position id just jotted in the

log, ending of your port

bow u.s. Coast guard.

since a Vhf call is compa-

rable to knuckles wrapping

on the front door, i peered

around the dodger and saw

the tender on the horizon.

over the radio we vol-

leyed with the captain, try-

ing to avoid the intrusion of

an underway boarding, but

f nally succumbed to the

impending safety inspec-

tion. def antly, we suggest-

ed some ice cream would

be nice, and wondered

about the consequences for

having an outdated f are

during a passage. head for

west marine? hardly.

soon the crew members

clambered on board, and

handed us a cold cardboard

box. they conducted their

inspection and upon leav-

ing, one of the crew called

their cutter via a button on

his vest that spoke back. i

expected scotty from Star

Trek to beam him up. we

asked the men in blue to

thank the captain for the

ice-cream sandwiches. as if

theyd been deceived, they

grumbled, Captain never

told us we had ice cream on

board. once alone, we were

left to wonder if wed really

had visitors. but over 1,000

miles from any port with a

supermarket, we now had

ice cream in the freezer.

Susie Ayers

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so you can do repairs on land or at sea!

Learn more at www.sailrite.com

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Out of the Blue

UNDERWAY

having spent

last summer on

the pacif c coast

of north america

exploring the in-

side passage, i was

eager to compare

memories of fa-

vorite anchorages

with the authors

depictions. two

hours later, i was

still thumbing

through the 331

pages, nodding

and smiling, yet

lamenting the

spots we missed.

the hundreds of

photos reminded

me of many of the

places we visited.

in this second edi-

tion, the authors

have assembled

more than 250

prof les of anchor-

ages from Victoria

to bella bella in

british Columbia.

Michael

Robertson

Best Anchorages of the Inside Passage by anne Vipond and william kelly (2nd ed., 2014; ocean Cruise guides; $31.25)

GooD BooK


staCy stepanoViCh (2); map by shannon Cain tumino

UNDERWAY

Gulfport, Florida, is only 5 miles

west of downtown St. Petersburg,

but its a world apart. Sometimes

referred to as Mayberry with a

liquor license, the town with a

population of just over 15,000 has

an endless variety of activities,

both on and of the water.

Nestled on the eastern bank of

Boca Ciega Bay, Gulfport is easily

accessible from the Gulf Intra-

coastal Waterway and Tampa Bay,

and now has bridge-free access to

the Gulf of Mexico. Tarpon Springs

and Sarasota are both a days trip

from the anchorage, making it a

great jumping-of point for trips

north and south of Tampa Bay. Two

active sailing clubs are based here

The Gulfport Yacht Club and the

Boca Ciega Yacht Club.

Restaurants, bars, a grocery

store, a laundromat and the public

library are all a short walk or bike

ride from the dinghy dock thats

also conveniently located near the

Gulfport Casino, the city-owned

ballroom thats rented out for pub-

lic and private events.

The anchorage is well protected

in all directions and can accom-

modate several dozen boats in 6- to

7-foot depths. After years of discus-

sion, the city installed 25 moorings

in 2013. Anchoring in the mooring

feld is controlled by the city;

however, the rest of Boca Ciega Bay

remains unregulated.

The Gulfport Municipal Marina

has 192 wet slips that are open

to the public and is a short walk

to downtown Gulfport and the

trails of Clam Bayou Nature Park.

The municipal marina has a well-

stocked ship store, restroom facili-

ties, showers, two public pump-out

stations and free Wi-Fi.

On shore, colorful ranch-style

homes and lavish gardens await

visitors to the seemingly sleepy

town. There is an Art Walk every

frst Friday and third Saturday that

features street performers and

local artists. The old Casino ofers

weekly ballroom, salsa, swing and

tango dancing lessons. Gulfport is

also home to the annual bluegrass

and blues festival in late

September.

Whether youre passing through

or looking for a place to stay and

explore the Gulf coast of Florida,

Gulfport is a true mariners

paradise.

Stacy Stepanovich

ResoURCes

Log on to the Gulfport website for details about the marina. (www.mygulfport.us/City_Departments/Marina/Marina.htm)

Waypoint: Gulfport

FoR moRe InFoRmATIon

about dockage and moorings,

contact harbormaster Dennis

Frain (727-893-1071).

The municipal marina in Gulfport, on the Gulf coast of Florida, has 192 slips open to the public.


lynda Childress (2)

+

UNDERWAY

DEGREE OF

DIFFICuLTy

EASy

Chilled Chicken

and Pasta Salad

1 2 chicken breasts

Salt and pepper, to taste

Olive oil or butter

8 ounces macaroni, penne, ziti

or rotini pasta

1 tomato, chopped, or handful

cherry tomatoes, halved

1 celery rib, chopped

1 2 sweet or dill pickles, chopped

red onion, chopped

cucumber, peeled, seeded

and chopped

6 black olives, sliced

Handful of croutons (optional)

Basil (fresh or dried) or

Dill weed, to taste

Basic vinaigrette (recipe below);

or bottled Italian or ranch

dressing, or mayo, to taste

Season chicken with salt and pepper

and saut in olive oil or butter. Let cool

and refrigerate.

Cook pasta according to package

directions, drain and rinse with cold

water. Cool at room temperature, then

refrigerate.

At mealtime, cut chicken into bite-

size pieces. Place pasta in a large bowl.

Add chicken and all remaining ingre-

dients. Add dressing, salt/pepper to

taste and toss well to mix. Serve as is or

transfer to a serving platter and enjoy!

Basic Vinaigrette

4 tablespoons olive oil

1 tablespoon vinegar (red wine or

white balsamic work well)

Salt and pepper, to taste

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

(optional)

Whisk ingredients together in a mea-

suring cup or bowl until emulsifed.

Dress salad immediately. Yields about

cup.

Where do you put that mucky spoon or spatula when youre not stirring, sau-ting or fipping whatevers cooking on the stovetop? The Snug from ThinkHat is the answer. It holds a metal, plastic or wooden spoon securely, right on the edge of a hot pot or pan while food cooks. Made from an FDA-approved, heat-resistant, food-grade silicone, it

It was early April. My husband, Jef, and I had just completed the passage

from Mazatlan, on mainland Mexico, to the Baja Peninsula aboard Outrider,

our Westsail 42. We were quite surprised by the hotter-than-normal tem-

peratures La Paz was experiencing, some days heating up into the 90s we

usually only see this in late May and early June. Its no fun cooking when its

that hot the galley heats up like an oven, and its too steamy for us to want

warm meals anyway. The early heat wave called for some creativity in the gal-

ley. I decided to start cooking certain items (such as rice, pasta and meat) in

the mornings while it was still cool. Later, all I had to do was either assemble

and reheat the items, or serve them cold.

During these torrid days, one of our favorite cool foods was this chicken

and pasta salad. The great part about this pasta salad is that most of it can be

made in advance, and you can mix and match to your hearts content, add-

ing whatever you like or whatever you have on hand to the dish. Youre

limited only by your imagination, and the combinations are endless!

keeps utensils from absorbing extreme heat and prevents plastic and wooden spoons and spatulas from melting or

CAn BE

PREPARED

AT AnCHOR

PREP

TIME

1 HR

Smart Galley Gadget

People

& Food

scorching while they rest in easy reach on a hot pans edge. At the table, it pre-vents serving utensils from slipping into the food. Its also easy to wash by hand under running water. The Snug comes in two sizes to ft most utensils. $21.99 (three-pack) or $29.99 (six-pack); www.thinkhat.com.

L.M.C.

A Meal to Beat the Heat by Anne Mott


courtesy of gary m

. goodlander

Meet the Mentors

never trust a man without calluses,

my father once told me. good advice. to

measure a woman, you looked at her eyes,

but a mans hands were the windows to

his soul. they were scarred. they bled.

they were huge, with stubby fngers,

blackened nails and ripped skin. the

grime didnt lie on top; it was massaged

into the tissue over decades.

my brother-in-law Joey Borges used

his hands as wood rasps, and why not?

they were tougher than sharkskin. If he

wanted to check if a fuse box contained

110- or 220-volt service, hed just brush it

with his magnifcent hands and say with

just the right dash of boredom, 110 sort of

tickles but 220 has some kick.

early on I was taught that a gentle-

man siphoned gasoline for a lady, and

you didnt mess around doing it. you just

sucked until the gas flled your mouth and

nonchalantly spit it out while whipping

the hose into the lowered jug. a real man

wasnt fussy and would simply swallow

what remained. What the hell, it didnt

matter no how, no way, wed joke.

from my young vantage point, men

were there for two reasons: putting food

on the table and fxing things. a fellow

could either make things right or, well,

he wasnt worth talking about. and since

we were sailors, that made us crude ship-

wrights as well. give im a jackknife and a

tree, and he could whittle you something

to cross an ocean on, my father once

told me, referring to a crackerjack wood

butcher in the harbor.

the highest praise a man in my young

world could receive was He can fx any-

thing. not to make repairs was simply

not an option; there was no money to buy

replacements. you just had to fx it. say-

ing that you didnt have the proper parts

or the proper tools was a cowards way

out. yes sir, you took it apart so you could

understand how it worked and then you

fxed it.

Back in the day, that was our manly

world view: real men understood how the

world worked and how to put it to rights,

and lesser men didnt.

I didnt want to be a lesser man.

as far as we were concerned, a man was

nuttin without his tools.

my two favorite authors are mark

twain and John steinbeck. Both re-

spected the noble, grease-smeared man.

steinbeck, in particular, would wax poetic

about how to get a model t to purr like a

kitten (I was weaned under the hood of

various boatyard automobiles).

Its always either gas or spark, son,

my father would say. dry the rotor. Wipe

down the plug wire. adjust the points;

if you dont have a feeler gauge, use the

cover of some folding matches, thatll be

close enough. Whip out the spark plug

and clean it. Put two drops of oil in each

cylinder, with a rotation or two of the

crankshaft, and give it a tiny burst of ether

as you torque the plug back in. then hit

it with jumper cables. If shell spin, shell

start!

We even had our own language. nudge

it, my father would say if he wanted me to

fetch the sledgehammer. lets hot it up,

if he wanted the torch.

But to be honest, though we strove to be

manly, we werent just crude sexist pigs.

my sister, carole (ex-skipper of Ms. Bligh,

Joey Borges, Fattys brother-in-law, is at home around anything with an engine.

When I was a boy, the men in my life were like gods. they sel-dom talked, preferring that their daily physical actions speak for them. I used to love to watch their hands. they were beautiful, whether open in friendship or fsted in battle.

According to lore, Fattys father, Jim, earned his nickname The Guru when the familys schooner was hauled for annual

maintenance and he painted a perfect boot stripe on an old yawl being fxed up by col-lege kids next door. Unbeknownst to them,

Jim and Fatty had secretly marked the waterline before the boys sanded it of. You

can read Fattys account at http://fatty goodlander.com/carolyn__family/the_guru.

on watch Capn Fatty Goodlander


ex-owner of Ruby B), can change a tire,

replace a brake pad and troubleshoot an

electrical circuit with the best of them.

once I visited her house in new orleans

to fnd the engine of her Volkswagen

spread over her entire driveway, and

her muttering, Better now than in

mexico!

there was so much to learn as a boat

kid: How to nightly refll and trim the

wicks of our kerosene anchor light

and cabin lamps. How to tar our hemp

anchor rode. How to worm-and-parcel

our running rigging to prevent chafe,

or swing ship to adjust the deviation of

our compass.

Just breaking in egyptian cotton

sails was an art, as was drying and

relaxing them after each sail. (never

leave the reef in a wet sail, was the

old mans rule. It will never shake out

properly after such lubberliness.)

oh, and the care and feeding of the

shipmate stove! the galley was the

heart of any happy ship, and learning

how to bank the anthracite coals so

theyd still be smoldering at dawn was

an art in and of itself. (the schooner

that I grew up on, Elizabeth, had a

coal chute on deck that was standard

equipment on a large John g. alden

yacht back in those days.) How cozy

the charlie noble looked aspinning

on a chilly autumn day.

never an idle moment on that ship.

slop this on the galvy rigging, my fa-

ther would say, handing me a bucket of

odiferous glop.

each haulout wed replace planks

using handsaws, adzes and draw-

knives. then wed caulk our seams

with 10 diferent irons and four mal-

lets, using one continuous strand of

cotton. We let the sound of the blows

be our audio guide, like tuning a guitar.

(If the seam was caulked correctly it

would not leak, and decades later youd

fnd a uniform bead indented on the

edge of the plank while replacing it,

the sign of a skillful, careful caulker.)

coaxing the huge 2-inch-thick ma-

hogany planks into place was not easy.

It took a week or two of pressure from

spanish windlasses (strands of tie-

wire wound tight with a stick) to bring

each board home. We also used braces

and wedges and levers and sawhorses

and anything else lying around the

shipyard unguarded.

the trick was to get it done no

excuses.

If, as a young lad, I couldnt fx some-

thing, well, I fessed up that I couldnt

fx it. But if I made an excuse for why I

couldnt fx it and hinted it wasnt my

fault, then Joey and my father heaped

abuse upon me to the point of tears.

failure was bad; attempting to weasel

out of it was far, far worse.

at the time I didnt realize they were

schooling me. I just thought I was help-

ing. But theyd constantly bring me a

succession of ever more complicated

repairs and just sort of casually hover

about. careful. you cant hit the bearing

on the side like that with a hammer. find

a socket thats exactly the correct size to

on WatcH

spread the load evenly, and

pound it out with that.

on Elizabeth, we had a

tool room, just as I do today

aboard Ganesh. our tools

defned us. Im proud to say

that to this day I use tools

from Elizabeth, Corina,

Carlotta, Wild Card and

numerous other vessels Ive

had love afairs with down

through the decades. (I even

have a few lovely but worn

sign-painting brushes my

father used in the 1930s.)

never set your plane on

its heel, my father would

say. soap your screws.

dont round the edges of

your chisels. file the teeth

of your saw, and then set

every other tooth in an

alternating direction with

a tap of the hammer on a

nailhead. strain your var-

nish. If your topsides are

too shiny, fatten the next

coat. fold and cut your

sandpaper so it never rubs

on itself. forget power

tools; a sharp bit and a

strong brace will get the job

done before the other fel-

low can fnd his extension

cord.

all good advice, though

some is dated now.

my father taught me

morse code (I passed my

ham license at 12) and ce-

lestial navigation so that

you can always earn your

living in any port in the

world! (sorry, dad, my sat

phone and gPs are more

in demand, but its the

thought that counts.)

the beautiful part of

being a Jack tar of all

trades aboard a funky old

schooner was how diverse

the tasks were: We fxed

toilets, tested fuses, carved

stemheads, welded steel,

cast keels, spliced wire,

whipped line and cupri-

noled our frame ends.

every sailor had a ditty

bag with his beloved leather

palm, ball of beeswax, spool

of marlin and sail needles.

on WatcH

Ill never forget when my

father took me aboard a mo-

toryacht to show me it had

two batteries. crazy, eh? he

whispered to me, winking at

the absurdity of it all. Back in

the day, if your boat was well-

found, you carried a small can

of compass oil, some lanolin, a

couple of pads of bronze wool,

red lead, zinc chromate and

bedding compound.

sure, gafers had their prob-

lems, but what a thrill to climb

up the mast hoops like a crazy

monkey on a breezy day, right

onto the throat of the gaf to

sit awhile. that was living. In

those days, any sailor worth

his salt could tuck a reef in the

mainsail on a black night while

blind drunk.

We were always on the look-

out for discarded stovepipe

around the shipyard. If we

found some, wed light a fre

next to the boat with cast-of

lumber, set a galvy bucket to

boil and wrap some old canvas

around the tubes to funnel in

the steam. then wed put our

future deck beams inside the

steam for an hour or so and

then quickly transfer them to

the mold before theyd cool. ah,

such a sweet curve theyd take!

all this my father and Joey

Borges taught me. now I hear

their voices after 54 years of

living aboard as I sail around

the world for the third time.

the time to reef is fve min-

utes before you ask yourself if

you should, I hear my father

say, chuckling. If you ever step

into a life raft, do so from the

spreaders!

listen to the boat, Joey

chimes in. shes smarter than

youll ever be. dont tell her

what to do. Instead, ask her

what she wants.

Just like Joey and my father,

I never, ever, make excuses.

and Im still listening to the

boat.

Fatty and Carolyn Goodlander

are making their way toward

Indonesia aboard their

Wauquiez ketch, Ganesh.

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courtesy of Brian m

istrot

Ode to a SailorNear my slip at the Harborage Marina, in St. Petersburg, Florida, I often saw an old sailor named Ken Barr aboard his boat, Intention, a Crealock 37, enjoying a beverage.

He would say hello to anybody who

passed by. if you needed an extra pair

of hands on a project, he would be there

in an instant. for some reason, Ken

seemed to take a special interest in

me. one day, he told me, in his typi-

cally quiet voice with a cocked smile, i

would like to show you some pictures

when you have time.

time? i had a lot of things, but time

was not one of them. my wife, chris-

tie, and i, along with our sons chase,

13, and Glen, 9, were trying to get out

of st. Petersburg aboard Sea Mist IV,

our catalina 400. our window was

closing for our run to the Bahamas or

places farther south. We were pinched

between reality and dreams with

each taking a higher priority depending

on the moment and the project. Days

passed, then weeks. i dare say a month

or two had gone by when one afternoon,

while i was hanging upside down from

my solar panels, i looked out and saw

Ken standing beside the boat, picture

album in hand.

are you busy? he asked.

no, i lied. come on aboard.

Ken opened his well-worn album and

began showing me a series of grainy

photos. He showed me a boat he had

built with his own hands. He showed

me his wife and his children steering

a course in tall seas. He showed me

remote islands across the Pacifc ocean,

bananas given to him by locals, and his

kids running along some exotic shore

or swimming on an uncharted reef. of

course Ken remembered them all in de-

tail still, especially the locals who took

his family in as one of their own. these

cracked pictures recalled the exploits of

a cruiser over half a century earlier.

He made his journey without a color

chart plotter. He did not have a GPs.

there were no radar, no watermaker, no

iPod or satellite phone. He sailed across

the ocean using the stars and sun to

guide him. He read old charts by lamp-

light. He got his drinking water from

the clouds and prepared for storms

by studying the barometer. While this

achievement alone was remarkable,

that he took his young family with him

was extraordinary. Ken brought them

and showed them a part of the world

they would never have seen otherwise.

it showed an exceptional level of knowl-

edge and belief in himself. most of all,

it showed a father who also respected

the ocean and trusted himself and his

children enough to overcome adversi-

ties together.

in the waning afternoon light, he

stepped from my boat and thanked me

for letting him share his past. i quickly

corrected him and pointed out that it

was I who was thankful. He headed back

down the dock, it seemed with a new

spring in his step, as if the conversation

Its family time with the kids in the saloon of Kens home-built ketch.

Ken works to get a fx as he and his family cross the vast Pacifc in search

of islands and new adventures.

Brian Mistrot

courtesy of Brian m

istrot In an age when refrigeration

was a luxury, the ocean provided fresh fare on a long crossing (top). Kens double-ender, Zephyr, with a full keel and split, ketch rig, was a popular cruising design a half-century ago.

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had somehow given him

energy or lightened an invis-

ible load. as i watched him

walk away, i felt a newfound

respect for the quiet sailor

who accomplished so much

but spoke of it so little. that

was more than a year ago.

a few days ago, i heard the

news: Ken, whose cocked

smile and picture album i

will never forget, had died.

He now sails through a sea

of stars toward the wife he

so badly missed. i wonder

how many more old sailors

sit quietly dockside their

exploits in life spectacular

but unheralded. each has a

photo album waiting to be

opened. While these sailors

no longer take breathtaking

shots afar, i plan to see more

of these pictures before

theyve completely faded.

Follow the crew of Sea Mist

IV at the authors website

(www.brianmistrot.com).


danielle zartman

The Kindness of StrangersIt was the end of one of the hottest days we could remember. Even after two years of cruising in the tropics, we were feel-ing wilted by the mugginess of a North Carolina summer.

as we walked wearily back to the

waterfront loaded with bags from the

mile-distant grocery store, there was little

to look forward to but the prospect of

another stufy, bug-infested night aboard.

Just a couple more blocks, i was telling

the girls, who naturally wanted to be car-

ried, when a car stopped suddenly across

the street.

the driver popped out. it must be the

zartmans! he said as he hurried over to

us, hand outstretched.

i confess that my mood was as muggy

as the weather, and my frst instinct was

to be annoyed at the stoppage of our

expedition with the dinghy dock nearly

in sight. But the implications of the situa-

tion hit home before i had time to register

any ill will, and i suddenly realized what

was going on. Here was an alert Cruising

World reader, remembering our names,

who had recognized Ganymede anchored

in the river from magazine pictures and

driven around town to fnd us! this hasnt

happened often enough for the thrill to

wear of perhaps it never will but it

was better than just that: He was inviting

us to his house. it was with difculty that

i brought myself back down to earth to

listen some more.

.... air-conditioned guest room. he was

saying. i can only guess how hot it must

be sleeping out there on that river.

my usual reaction handed down, no

doubt, by my father is to immediately

refuse anything ofered by anyone, how-

ever wonderful it may be. Fortunately my

wife, danielle, had the sense to inter-

pose before i could foolishly let this one

slip and, long story short, we wound up

spending three wonderful days with our

new friends. John, Gayle, eric and Cailyn

are the Stone family, and we found it

remarkable that the last time we had been

most kindly put up in an air-conditioned

spare room had also been by a family of

Stones. that frst time was many weeks

before in faraway titusville, Florida,

where not only the heat but also the mos-

quitoes had made sleeping impossible.

the Florida Stones noticed our wilted

edges, took us to their cool house, plied

us with food and drink, listened politely

while i rambled about ships and sailing,

and put us to sleep in soft, roomy beds.

First in titusville, now in Swansboro;

neither time had we realized how very

desperately we needed such a break.

Our third big break came when we

needed not a rest from exertions and heat,

but a haven from the approaching Hur-

ricane irene. With everyone in Hampton

roads, Virginia, scurrying for shelter, we

were preparing to make do with a better-

than-nothing seawall side-tie when Ben

Cuker, another alert reader who had

recognized Ganymede and introduced

himself, arranged for a slip up a nearby

narrow creek where we could leave the

boat in safety. and so our family weath-

ered irene in perfect comfort at Ben and

dawns house, while Ganymede in her

spider web of lines didnt so much as take

on a drop of water.

there were other folks who helped us

on our way some who gave us rides to

stores, or let us wash laundry or tie up the

dinghy. that people perfectly unknown

to us put themselves to such trouble on

our account is still a wonderment those

events more than any others in retrospect

are the highlights of that cruise. and if i

could ask just one more thing of them all,

it would be for a chance to let them know

how grateful we are.

The Zartman family is living aboard

Ganymede in Newport, Rhode Island,

and planning their next adventure.

During their time cruising, the Zartman family received help and hospitality from many diferent strangers. Here, Ben, left, chats with John Stone, who ofered the

Zartmans a respite from the heat aboard Ganymede in an air-conditioned guest room.

Neighbors help neighbors on the dock during preparations for the coming Hurricane Irene.

point of view Ben Zartman


Ivan cornell (top), sIm

on thomson

Sailing ThroughBritains HistoryAll my previous boats started their maiden voyage in London, and the new Aventura, my fourth, was no exception. A short delivery trip across the English Channel from the boatyard in Cherbourg, France, took us up the River Thames into the heart of the city.

on the appointed day in may, we were

locked out of limehouse Basin and

passed into the pool of london through

the iconic tower Bridge, which was

raised especially for us.

sailing along the thames is akin

to leafng through a book of english

history. close to us on the north shore,

the remains of the roman defense walls

of ancient londinium are overlooked

by the tower of london. the tower

was built in the 11th century by King

William I, who invaded england

from normandy in 1066. nearly a

millennium later, my own norman-

built Aventura IV was hoisting her sails

for a second passage through tower

Bridge as we left the city. the last time

Id asked to sail through was at the start

of Aventura IIIs voyage to antarctica as

part of the millennium odyssey (1998-

2000). this time we will head in the

opposite direction, for the northwest

passage, as part of another global event,

the Blue planet odyssey.

as the favorable tide took us fast

downstream, we passed Greenwich,

from where the explorer martin

Frobisher had set of in 1576 on the

frst of many doomed expeditions to

fnd a high-latitude shortcut from the

atlantic to the pacifc.

Greenwich, an attractive london

suburb, is bisected by the prime

meridian and so gave its name to

Greenwich mean time, on which all

time zones are based. nearby, the

national maritime museum has a

vast collection of relics from the many

expeditions that for over 400 years

had searched for an arctic trade route

between europe and asia. the most

famous among them was that of sir

John Franklin, whose expedition of

1845 ended in disaster when his two

ships, Terror and Erebus, were trapped

in the ice of an early winter that

eventually led to the loss of all 129 men.

an exhibition dedicated to the search

for the northwest passage draws on

incredible feats of endurance as well

as the many tragic stories, none with

better illustration than the exhibit of a

gnarled boot surrounded by some rusty

tins. Franklin was known as the man

who ate his boots, after stories started

circulating at the time that the starving

men had eaten the leather of their

Aventura IV sails past Greenwich, England, a city with close ties to many

explorers who sought out a northern trade route to Asia.

Ive started all of my voyages from London, and on the last two, this included raisings of

the Tower Bridge so that Aventura III and Aventura IV could pass through.

LETTER FROM AVENTURA Jimmy Cornell


sIm

on thomson

shoes. the old leather boot was found

in 1879 at starvation cove, on adelaide

peninsula, by one of several search

teams sent by the British admiralty

to solve the mystery surrounding the

disappearance of Franklins ships.

the frst man to transit the northwest

passage successfully was the norwegian

roald amundsen, on the 47-ton sloop

Gja, between 1903 and 1906. on

that voyage, he spent two winters in

the area. a complete transit of the

northwest passage in one season did

not occur until Willy de roos did it in

1977. In the last decade, it has become

more likely that the passage will be

open, as a result of climate change and

the shrinking of the arctic ice cap.

Downstream from Greenwich we

passed london city airport, built on

the site where once stood the old royal

albert Docks. It was there that I had

ftted out the original Aventura and

had set of, almost exactly 40 years ago,

on my frst world voyage. and here I

was again, setting sail on board her

letter From AVENTURA

My newest French-built Aventura shares a Norman heritage with the Tower of London, built in the 11th century by William I, who invaded England from Normandy.

namesake on the most ambitious of all

my sailing projects.

after a fast passage across the north

sea, and following the tradition of

previous expeditions to the northwest

passage, we stopped for fresh provisions

at stromness, in the orkney Islands.

lying on the same latitude as southern

Greenland, stromness has been used

as a port of departure since the time

of the vikings. Famous explorers

have left from here, such as henry

hudson, James cook, edward parry,

John Franklin and John rae, a native

of orkney, who was born here in 1813.

the statue of rae, the most famous

orcadian, overlooks the perfectly

sheltered harbor. a true adventurer,

he despised the royal navys elaborate

and mostly misguided preparations

and preferred to learn from the Inuit

how to survive the harsh arctic climate.

he wore their clothing, covered long

distances on snowshoes, built icehouses

for shelter, and rather than using dogs,

he and his team pulled sledges loaded

with provisions. In 1846, he became

the frst european explorer to survive

an arctic winter without outside

help. From his Inuit contacts he also

obtained confrmation of the fate of

Franklins expedition, and surmised

that, in desperation, the starving men

may have eaten more than just their

boots.

But John raes greatest merit is that

he fnally proved that the northwest

passage was indeed an open waterway,

albeit choked by ice for most of the year.

Following in this admirable explorers

wake, Aventura is now turning her bow

westward, bound for those same waters.

Jimmy Cornell is a CW editor at large

and organizer of the Blue Planet

Odyssey (www.blueplanetodyssey

.com).


BR

IA

N C

AR

LI

N


FROM ZERO TO RACING

T

BY TA S H A H A C K E R

Henri Lloyd is one of

12 identical Clipper 70s. These are pow-

erful racing machines, capable of long days

runs and double-digit speeds.

Southern Ocean leg of the

Clipper Round the World

Race is pure blue-water

boot camp for a fledgling

cruising sailor.

he


All hands on deck!

By the time the spinnaker

halyard snaps, splaying our

sail out onto the Southern

Ocean like a wet tablecloth,

Im wide awake in the saloon,

expecting the worst. The boat

has been sailing on the edge

for hours, threatening to lose

control with 50-knot winds,

80-foot waves and the spin-

naker pushing us to speeds of

over 30 knots.

So when its time to scram-

ble into action, Im terrified

but Im ready.

For the last two weeks,

since we sailed out of Cape

Town, South Africa, bound for

Western Australia, sleep has

been a luxury rarely bestowed

upon the fatigued crew of

Henri Lloyd, one of 12 70-foot

racing yachts competing in

the Clipper Round the World

Race. And if theres anything

this motley crew of experi-

enced and rookie sailors is

learning, its that there is no

rest for the weary down here

in the Roaring 40s.

Even below deck, where it

normally feels safe, the sounds

of the Southern Ocean are

apocalyptic as the wind whips

through the rigging, the waves

crash overhead and panicked

screams are heard from crew

as they handle thrashing lines

that threaten to maim them.

I quickly buckle my life jack-

et and prepare to rush up on

deck to join in the tug-of-war

to pull our spinnaker out of

the sea. But for a second, Im

nothing but self-doubt: This is

insane. What am I doing here?

The only sailing experience

I had before this was fve years

of weekend sailing in New

York and one long cruise to

the Caribbean on my Catalina

34. Now here I am, fishing a

spinnaker out of the sea with

a racing crew of 20.

I wonder for a moment if

this is what regret feels like.

Around the World?

Ive applied to do the

Clipper Race, my husband,

Ryan Horsnail, says carefully,

studying his wine as he gauges

my reaction. Were sitting in

the cockpit of Hideaway, our

Catalina 34, watching the

sun set over our mooring in

Manhasset Bay, New York.

What is that? I ask.

Its a round-the-world race

on stripped-down yachts. It

starts in

Around the world! I inter-

rupt.

Yeah, but you dont have to

do the full race. Id do one or

two legs.

My mind is racing. Is he talk-

ing about the kind of sailing

Ive seen on YouTube? Like

the Volvo Ocean Race? Where

they wear helmets and climb

up the mast in raging storms

to repair sails? Thats insane!

When is it? And which

legs? I ask, trying not to re-

veal how horrifed I am.

It starts in London in Sep-

tember 2013 and fnishes the

next summer. Id like to do

FROM zERO TO RACINg

legs one and three. The third

leg is the Southern Ocean, and

by all accounts its just nuts.

But what about the Baha-

mas? I ask.

For a year now, weve been

planning to sail from New

York to the Bahamas. And now

Im getting worried that Ryan

is going to suggest we sail our

Catalina 34 to London.

The Clipper is more than

a year away! Long after the

Bahamas. Who knows where

well be by the time I start

training for the Clipper, Ryan

says.

Theres training? What

kind of training?

Of course theres training!

Something like 30 percent of

the people who sign up for the

Clipper have never even sailed

before, Ryan says.

Now Im intrigued. They

take people with no sailing ex-

perience and they train them

well enough that they can race

a yacht across vast oceans?

Since we bought Hideaway fve years ago, Ive mostly re-

lied on Ryan to do the sailing.

And here we are, a few months

away from casting of our lines

and heading out across the

gulf Stream. And Im think-

ing I could defnitely do with

some training.

Do you think Clipper

teaches you stuff thats ap-

plicable to cruising? I ask. I

mean, could it make me a bet-

ter sailor all around?

Ryan looks at me with inter-

est. Yeah, for sure. I mean,

The leg across the notorious Southern Ocean lived up to its reputation, delivering howling winds and towering following seas en route to Australia from Cape Town, South Africa (top). Henri Lloyd, like the other Clipper 70s, carries a paying crew and professional captain (right). About 20 percent of the crew members sail the entire race; the rest rotate in and out. Tasha Hacker ( far right) sailed two legs, London to Rio de Janeiro, and Cape Town to Australia, and liked them so much, she decided to rejoin the boat to be on hand for the fnish.

Something like 30 percent of the people

who Sign up for the clipper have never even

Sailed before.

TASHA HACkER (TOp); CLIppER RACE (BOTTOM, LEFT); BRIA

N CARLIN

(BOTTOM RIg

HT)


TASHA HACkER (2)

FROM zERO TO RACINg

Damn it! I drop to the

deck, cursing myself for wast-

ed time while pumping out

fve push-ups as fast as I can.

An instant later, Im back in

position at the runner with

taut muscles and my heart

beating against my rib cage.

My sailboat is competing

against Ryans in a racing

headsail change to see how

much weve learned in our

first week of Clipper Race

Training. And right now Im

focused on nothing more

than winning.

Ready to tack, shouts the

helmsman.

Runner coming back! I

scream, pulling in the loose

line, swapping hands and ro-

tating my shoulders as fast as

well be going out in the kind

of weather Id never take our

own boat out in. And well

be learning to sail in those

conditions. It will be such a

confdence builder. Why, you

thinking of doing it?

Im massaging my hands

nervously. And Im thinking

back to when we frst got our

boat and I was learning to sail

how I would shriek every

time the boat heeled beyond

15 degrees because I thought

for sure we would capsize. I

think about how little I knew

and how far Ive come.

Ocean racing is an enor-

mous leap from cruising our

little boat up and down the

Hudson River, but all I can

think of is my future self: the

person who comes back from

crossing oceans on a racing

yacht and thinks nothing of

taking Hideaway out on her

own. Something I would never

do now. And Im starting to

like that future self.

Do you think I could han-

dle it? I mean, Im not a sailor

like you, I say.

Ryan laughs. You want to

do it, dont you? Of course

you can handle it; by the time

youre done, youll be captain

of Hideaway!

Can we do it on different

boats? I ask, searching Ryans

face for signs of disappoint-

ment. I mean, I think Id

learn more if I didnt have you

to fall back on.

Ryan smiles. Absolutely.

How do I sign up? I ask,

sincerely hoping I wont

regret it.

This Is Racing?

Bring It On!

Drop and give me fve! the

skipper on our training sail

yells as I freeze and realize

Ive just run across the boats

low leeward deck a major

safety no-no.

Crap! My bad! I say, un-

loading the running backstay

from the winch. Can I do my

push-ups after the race?

Do you want me to make it

50? give me fve now!

I can to make up for lost time.

Ready!

Helms to lee.

As the boat tacks, the deck

zings with sheets being

trimmed in on the headsail,

mainsail and staysail. I grind

in the runner until it creaks

under tension and I look over

at Ryans boat. His team is

still crouched on deck, flak-

ing their sail, nowhere near

ready to tack.

Yes! My crew shouts vic-

toriously, rushing to the rails

just as our boat passes closely

enough for our opponents to

see the whites of our grins.

Ryan is glaring at me across

the water as if to say, Dont

even think about gloating. I

taught you how to sail.

This Is Racing?

Take Me Home!

With the four-hour watch

system in effect, food and

sleep punctuate the days and

dictate the rhythm of life on

board. And when crew are

deprived of either, emotional

threads unravel and manifest

themselves in shouting, cry-

ing or hiding in the heads.

This is what I remember

most about my final week of

Clipper Race Training.

The Henri Lloyd crew are

so sleep-starved by the end

of training that there is little

reaction when we fnally pull

into Britains gosport Ma-

rina at 4 a.m., after five days

at sea. We should be celebrat-

ing our graduation into


TASHA HACkER

When not crashing through the Roaring 40s on 70-foot ocean racers, Tasha Hacker and her husband, Ryan Horsnail (bottom left), sail their Catalina 34, Hideaway (top left), in their home waters of New York and have ventured south to the Caribbean. Once the crew mem-ber who was content to sit and enjoy the ride, Tasha signed on for the Clipper Race in the hopes of gaining the skills and confdence to take Hideaway out on her own.

full-fedged Clipper Crew, but

instead we have withdrawn

into sullen silence, each of

us perhaps contemplating

whether or not the Clipper

Race is the dream adventure

we thought it would be.I know my own thoughts

have wandered in this direc-

tion. If Im this tired and mis-

erable after five days in the

English Channel, whats it

going to be like on the South-

ern Ocean after three weeks?

I think back to the reasons

I signed up to do the race in

the frst place. Training, sail-

ing and conquering fears, I

remind myself.

And, yet, these arent the

things Im finding difficult.

Lack of comfort, lack of sleep,

peeing at a 45-degree heel,

cooking for 20, not shower-

ing, personality conflicts,

leaky bunks, living on top of

sails, lack of space, lack of

privacy: These things com-

pound and threaten to drive

me mad.

I thought I had prepared

myself mentally for the ex-

treme challenge of sailing

across oceans on a 70-foot

racing yacht. But the extreme

challenge of living on a boat

with 20 other people for a

month? Now, thats hard.

In the Thick of the Race

Hearing my mates rumbling

on the deck above me and

before doubt creeps any fur-

ther into my consciousness

I scramble up on deck and

grab the end of the spinnaker

sheet that is threatening to

yank 15 of the crew overboard

from the stern.

Im not thinking about my

safety anymore. Im thinking

that every minute our spinna-

ker drags through the South-

ern Ocean, our opponents are

getting closer to knocking us

of the podium. Which makes


COuRTESY OF TASHA HACkER

Though they battled to the end, the crew of Henri Lloyd had to settle for a second-place fnish when they arrived in Australia. This years running of the Clipper Race fnished in London in July.

me grip the sheet tighter

and dig my feet into the deck

until finally, our soggy sail is

inched slowly out of the sea

and heaped into the cockpit.

With the sail finally on

deck, the hard work begins.

We rig a spare halyard, get

a fresh spinnaker on deck,

hoist the new spinnaker and

repack the old one. All of this

every single maneuver

costs us valuable time as the

fleet races to catch us. With

only 60 miles to go, Henri

Lloyd is still in the top three,

battling it out for first place.

And were so close to land, we

can smell it.

Later, Im at the helm. Weve been sailing down-

wind with the kite fying for

four hours now; Im focused

on keeping one particular

star between the mast and

the shroud to ensure the boat

moves steadily and at the

perfect heel. Any jerking mo-

tion on the helm fattens the

boat out instantly, slowing it

down and costing precious

time. So Im staring at that

star in the sky with my arms

locked on the wheel as if my

life depended on it.

Looking out across the

cockpit, I can see the crew

concentrating on their jobs

as hard as Im staring down

my star. As dawn starts to

break, we can just see the logo

on the boat thats appeared

off our starboard bow: Its

Great Britain. And radar tells

us they are 1.7 miles ahead of

us. Which means a mere 1.7

miles stand between us and

frst place.

Two crew are standing

at the grinder, poised and

ready, and when the trim-

mer screams grind! their

arms spin in unison. Its

like watching a clockwork

mechanism: the boat sways,

the spinnaker flutters, the

trimmer screams, the grind-

ers spin, the boat sways, the

spinnaker futters, the trim-

mer screams, the grinders

spin. We are the picture of

focus and determination.

Eric, the skipper, announc-

es that weve covered 15 miles

in the last hour. If we keep

hitting these numbers, well

break PSP Logistics 24-hour

speed record, he says, know-ing this will impact me, espe-

cially, since PSP is my hus-

bands boat.

But we all know we dont

have another 24 hours to break

the 311-mile record. We have

six hours at best and this race

is over. Just focus, I repeat

to myself.

My eyes are growing blood-

shot from lack of sleep and

too much caffeine, and the

muscles in my shoulders are

heating up

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