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EXECUTIVE SUMMARYThe diagnostic study of Pashmina has been undertaken by Craft Development Institute (CDI) under MSE-CDP. The cluster development approach has been adopted as a key strategy by MSME and GOI with the purpose of increasing the productivity, competitiveness as well as capacity of Micro and Small enterprises. The Handicraft Industry, particularly the Pashmina craft Cluster is struggling for its progressive and prosperous existence. Therefore it requires a lot of support for identifying the cluster strengths, weaknesses, socio-economic environment and feasible steps to be taken for the overall sustainable growth of the cluster. The competitive advantage for MSMEs is becoming increasingly dependent on three critical factors viz. Cost reduction, Efficiency of working and Innovations (CEI). Business Development Services (BDS) has significant impact on (CEI) leading to productivity gains. Therefore, BDS plays a vital role in improving competitiveness of MSMEs. The pashmina industry of Kashmir is a crucial economic contributor to the state and to the country as well. However, the industry is facing a lot of challenges due to the intervention of modern machinery and also increased competition from various countries. The cluster for the pashmina based goods in Kashmir is Eidgah Srinagar. Majority of Artisans being job workers working for Master Artisans and Traders are receiving low wages, which are not enough for them to sustain their livelihood in the present times amid high expenses and high inflation. Though there is sufficient raw material availability but there is no control on the cost and the quality of the raw material being supplied. Hence the costs of raw material are increasing and the quality of raw material is decreasing due to unchecked adulterations. Unavailability of market is the main problem as the products are being sold through intermediaries and direct trade with the buyers is lesser in magnitude. The benefits being framed for the artisans could not be distributed among the deserving people because of their unawareness about the schemes. In this context the study is meant to provide a broad framework for providing an in-depth picture of the cluster in order to identify the clusters core issues.AT A GLANCE Undertaken by Craft Development Institute (CDI) Srinagar, under the MSE-CDP for Pashmina Cluster, Iddgah, Srinagar. Pashmina craft Cluster is struggling for its progressive and prosperous existence. The pashmina industry of Kashmir is a crucial economic contributor to the state and to the country as well. Majority of Artisans being job workers working for Master Artisans and Traders are receiving low wages. Unavailability of market is the main problem as the products are being sold through intermediaries and direct trade with the buyers is lesser in magnitude. In this context the study is meant to proide a broad framework for providing an in-depth picture of the cluster in order to identify the clusters core issues.

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STATUS OF CLUSTERThe Pashmina products cluster is mainly concentrated in Eidgah area of district Srinagar of Jammu and Kashmir. The constituent areas of the cluster include Zoonimar, Saidapora, Firdous colony, Khaiwan, Rathpora, Ganderpora, Laigerdora, Shaheed Mazaar, Wanganpora, Bagwanpora, Waniyar, Narwara, Wantpora, Tangbagh, Armpora and Merjaanpora. The various types of practitioners involved are artisans, artisan manufacturers, traders, trader manufacturers and exporters. Majority of the artisans are operating on job work basis supplying to the manufacturers and traders. Pashmina craft in the Eidgah cluster has a history of around 600 to 700 years. The people of the cluster have been dedicatedly involved in the manufacturing of plain and embroidered pashmina products for all these years. The art of Kaani shawls however, is a recent addition to the cluster having a history of around 15 years only.AT A GLANCE Mainly concentrated in Eidgah area of District, Srinagar. Practitioners involved are artisans, artisan manufacturers, traders, trader manufacturers and exporters. Pashmina craft in the Eidgah cluster has a history of around 600 to 700 years. The art of Kani shawls however, is a recent addition to the cluster having a history of around 15 years only.

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The snapshot of Eidgah Cluster is as under:Exact Location of Cluster Spread of Cluster Age of Cluster Artisans Profile: Raw Material Procureres Spinners Weavers Barengur Naqqash (Designers) Dyers Clippers Washermen Aggregate Investment ( Rs. Crores) Estimated Turnover ( Rs Crores) Machine interventions in cluster: Dehairing Units Spinning Units Product Mix Major stakeholders Latitude : 34.097910 Longitude: 74.791855 5 -7 km 600-700 Years for Plain Pashmina 15 Years for Kani 15 20,000 5000 50 11 10 150 80 3.29 786 300 20 Plain Pashmina( ), Embroidered Pashmina( ) Kani Pashmina( ), Raw Material Providers. Poiwanies. Dehairing Units Spinning Units/Women Folk Naqats Barengur Weavers Dyers Clippers Artisan Manufacturers Traders Trader Manufacturers Exporters Arts Emporium State Handicraft Dept. State Handloom Dept. JK Bank ICICI Bank. Weavers Service Centre CDI ICAR(NAIP Project)

Major BDS Providers

INDUSTRY SCENARIOThe global textile and clothing industry trade stands at around US$ 360 bn. The Indian textile industry is valued at US$ 36 bn with exports totalling US$ 17 bn in 2005-2006. At the global level, Indias textile exports account for just 4.72% of global textile and clothing exports. The Textile industry occupies a unique place in our country. One of the earliest to come into existence in India, it accounts for 14% of the total Industrial production, contributes to nearly 30% of the total exports and is the second largest employment generator after agriculture. Today, Indias textile sector comprises four important segments: Modern Textile Mills Independent Power looms Handlooms and Garments of the total cloth produced in the country and also adds substantially to export earnings. Handloom is unparalleled in its flexibility and versatility, permitting experimentation and encouraging innovations. The production of handloom fabrics had gone up to 4629 mn sq mtrs in 2005, from 500 mn sq mtrs in the 1950s, representing an annual growth of around 4%. The major contribution of the handloom sector is the well-known Raffal, Pashmina and Kani-Jamawar shawls, loies and blankets, khadi and woollen cloth.AT A GLANCE Mainly concentrated in Eidgah area of District, Srinagar. Practitioners involved are artisans, artisan manufacturers, traders, trader manufacturers and exporters. Pashmina craft in the Eidgah cluster has a history of around 600 to 700 years. The art of Kani shawls however, is a recent addition to the cluster having a history of around 15 years only.

SENARIO & ROLE OF HANDLOOM SECTOR The Handloom sector plays a very important role in the countrys economy. It is one of the largest economic activities providing direct employment to over 30 lakhs weavers engaged in weaving. In addition to the direct employment, it provides indirect employment to 1.5 persons per weaver in the loom engaged in production. Besides all these, the industry through the back ward and forward linkage effect generates employment for many others such as loom and accessories manufacturers such as dyers, printers, processors etc. On the whole the handloom industry provides an employment of 5.5 % of the employment in the decentralized sectors of the countrys economy. Goods manufactured in handlooms also have high export potentiality. Despite the presence of the power loom sector in a big way along with all its advantages, the handloom sector has been able to withstand the competition. It has also proved its indispensability on certain fronts. Wave of ethnic revivalism and effective state intervention through financial assistance and implementation of various developmental schemes have brought about more than tenfold increase in the production of handloom fabrics. The handloom sector contributes nearly 19%

METHODOLOGYThe diagnostic study for the Eidgah pashmina cluster has been completed and prepared by the team of Researchers from Craft Development Institute under the guidelines of MSME-CDP. The cluster diagnostics has been done with the aim to gather information on the cluster, identify the main actors, collect trade and business data from them, identify the most effective leverage points for intervention and provide a baseline for future monitoring and evaluation. For carrying out the diagnostic study, the following methodology has been adopted: a. b. c. d. Desk research for secondary data Primary data collection Data processing and Analysis Preparation of study report During the Second field visit for 20 days, meetings were arranged with the Traders, Trader Manufacturers, Manufacturer Exporters and various BDS providers working in the area and explored them as potential local project partners and resources. We also investigated for existing government schemes functional in the area and the people benefiting from those schemes. The government organizations and line departments like J&K handloom department, J&K handloom department, SKUAST were contacted and information on various aspects relevant to the cluster was collected through detailed interactions and discussions. We also organized focus group discussions with the various groups of weavers of the cluster who were the members of a functional cluster development program under the Weavers Service Centre Srinagar. DATA PROCESSESING & ANALYSIS The secondary and primary data collected was compiled in order to carry out a comprehensive analysis regarding status of the cluster, BDS provision, key issues and required interventions. PREPERATION OF STUDY REPORT Based on the compiled data and analysis, a detailed study report was thus prepared as per the template provid