one cham z r labu t i m - london borough of mertonlabu r num est a t e & home z one p p £ i...

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Roman/Saxon period Mitcham was identified as a settlement long before the Roman occupation of Britain, and by the 7thC, was the site of a thriving Saxon settlement. It is thought the inhabitants may have been encouraged to settle in the area to protect the approaches to the city of London from sea-borne raiders. Settlements in the late Saxon and early Norman periods centred on the current greens – Upper Green (Fair Green) and Lower Green (Cricket Green) which even then were central to road networks (tracks) leading to surrounding villages. Medieval/Tudor period By the 11thC there were six main estates in Mitcham held by tenants of King Edward the Confessor. These Saxon landowners were dispossessed by Norman nobles rewarded with English estates for their part in the Conquest. From the mid 14thC there is evidence that wealthy merchants and bankers from the City of London were seeking estates in Mitcham, as a means of attaining the higher status of landowners. Thus by the 16thC Mitcham was becoming renowned for its good company. Also in its favour was its closeness to London and Royal Palaces, and its reputation for fresh air and pure water – both scarce in Tudor London. By the end of the 16thC many notable people had estates or land in Mitcham – too many to mention here, but important enough for Queen Elizabeth I to visit on five separate occasions. By the 17thC Mitcham was a prosperous agricultural village with open fields in strip cultivation, extensive commons and water meadows. By the mid 17thC Epsom had become a Spa much favoured by Londoners. The road system had been improved and Mitcham was a busy thoroughfare for travellers and coaching parties, with many inns with stabling facilities for horses. Georgian period Mitcham became best known in the 18thC for the cultivation of medicinal and aromatic herbs (which had actually started in the 14thC) but increased on an industrial scale through innovative methods used by Ephraim Potter and William Moore. By 1802 nearly 500 acres of land in Mitcham supported herb growing. At the same time, textile processing industries in the River Wandle area with mills, printing and dye works were flourishing in the increased demand for coloured and printed fabrics, alongside flour, paper and snuff mills. Transport for goods and coal to serve the various industries was a problem, so the Surrey Iron Railway, the first public railway in the world, was opened in 1803 – running from Wandsworth, through Mitcham to Croydon. Victorian period The mid-Victorian period saw Mitcham thriving. The local gentry were active in philanthropic activities to alleviate the lot of the poor. Mitcham Cricket Club, the oldest in the country, could field a team to take on all comers. The annual Mitcham Fair (said to be chartered by Queen Elizabeth 1) was looked forward to by everyone. Gypsies attracted by the Fair and 1 Eagle House UpperMitcham heritage map MERTON COUNCIL www.merton.gov.uk Laburnum Estate & Homezone P P £ Industrial Estate Chelsea Fields Industrial Estate Glebe Square Bookham Court Frenshaw Court Majes tic Way Gas Works Phipps Bridge Community Centre Eagle House Clock Tower Mitcham Eastfields Station Mitcham Industrial Estate Tamworth Rec Lavender Park Boundary Business Centre Three Kings Pond LAVENDER FIELD Virgin Active/ Premier Inn Sainsburys/ M&S Superstores Priory Retail Park Tandem Centre Holiday Inn Express Library COLLEGE FIELDS Merton Abbey Mills Colliers Wood Recreation Ground Deen City Farm Cemetery Mitcham Business Generator Figges Marsh Jonson Close Brenley Close Hogarth Cres c en t U pp er Gre en U pp er Gr een W Holb orn Way London Road Str eath am L ondon L ondon Wes tern Road Wes tern Road London Road Streatha m R oad Ken Cl Procter Pearce F o x s P a t h Regal Raleigh Gnds Bond Road Lavender A ve nu e S t M a r ks Road Locks Lane E as t fi elds R oa d Portlan d R d Grove Ro ad North Grove Road South Tamworth L ane S andy L ane Commonside East Eveline Plummer Lane Le w is Boroug h R d Dalton Avenue Abbey Cl Ashtre e Avenue Oakwo od Avenue Lime C rt Church Ro ad Sycam ore Gdns Bank Avenue Glebe Avenue Armf iled Cresen t G raham A ven ue G raham Road Ma nship Road Fr amfield Road St James Road Gorringe Park Avenue St Barnabas Road Edenvale Ro ad Milton Rd Stanley Road Thirsk Road Tynemouth Road Heaton Road Bruce Road Inglem Ro a d Elmhurst Avenue Garden Avenue Melr ose Av e nue Park Av Beec h h olme Av M ount R oad M ount R oad Mount Ro ad Ha wth o r ne Ave Farew Pl Lo w ry Cr es e nt Gilpin Cl P hipps B ridge Road Go o dw in C lose Haslem ere Ave nue Hom ef ield G ar d ens T h or nv il le G rove Parkv iew Fox t on G r o ve Bo urne D riv e Varley Way Batsworth Roa d B e l gr av e Wa lk Belgrave Road Illing wo rth Cl o se oad Phip ps Bridg e Road New Close New Close Sax on b ury Oxted Cl Langdale Av enu e London Roa d Silbury A v Mortlak e Drive Reyno l ds Cl Roslyn Cl Rock C lose H orn e r L a n e Woodl and W a y F ig ges Road Sadler C l o se Downe R d C h ant Wa y N oble Crt Queens Rd Glebe Court Tyrell Sq Kennett Sq Camb Sq P o p l a r A v Reev e Cl Victoria Crus oe Road Island Road Fleming Mead Pi t c a irn Road Swain s Ro a d A r n o l d Ro a d D on Road Caven dish Ro ad Myrna Clos e Alexandra Road Tudor Place Waldo Pl Fa irfield Cl Heathfiel d Drive Wilkins Clo se Wilson Av Wilson Ave nu e Hawk es Ro a d Turner A ve Stuart Plac e Mas Pl Steers Mead Rose Ave Biggin Aven u e Cam Av Lavender Laings Avenue Mortimer Ro ad Dorset Roa d Heyford Road Seaton Ro ad Lul Cres Rodney Road Collingwoo d Road Blake Road Mile s Road Venus Mews Frimley Gardens Edmund Road Love Lane Church Pl Morland Love La ne De’arn Gardens Taffys H ow West Ro ad Peartre e Clos e Bedfont Cl Ch alkley Close Baker Lane Pembroke Rd Barnard R d Gaston Rd Hilary Av en ue Lammas Avenue Lans dell T onstall Rd Leather Cl Laburn u m Acacia Rd Worcest er Cl Kings Rd Spencer Rd Com monside enue Imperia Sta Hammo nd Ave Clay Av Firs Clo se Edgehill Road Pearson W ay Step Way Slade W ay Summerhill W ay Spring Grv The Driftw ay Priestley Road Ormerod Gnds Fowler R d Guyatt G n ds Rialto R oad Fernlea Road Beaulieu Cl Elmfield A v Uckfield G r Marsh A ve Fir Tree A v e Carew R o ad Feltham R oad Kenmar Dr Fleming Mead Friday Road Dale Rise Tayl or Road Albert R Whitford Elmwoo d orth Pla ce Hallowe ll Close Commo nsi de East Esh M Clarend on Grove Montrose G nds Veals Mead Oakm ea d Rop e r Wy Sun s h i n e W a y lebe Path Q n A nn es Gn Russell R oad Me r l i n WnutTr Av Fieldgate Lane North Pl P Brail sford £ £ COLLIERS WOOD Merton Hi g h Street Merant un Way Church Road Prince Georges T an d em W ay Priory Rd Christch urch Col w o od Garde ns Ch ristchurch Fortescue Road Clarendon Road Courtney Road North G nd s G n ds S o ut h Valley Gnds Bank Runnymede Road Chapter Way W aterm ill Way Liberty Avenue Longfiel d Christchurch Merton Vision Sheldr ick Clos e B r a n g w y n Crescent Willow View Palestine Grove Suth e rland Rusking Liberty Avenue Brangwyn R o a d Clos e Crescent Cl Road Ro a d Rd 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 33 34 35 36 37 38 32 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 Heritage Walks Upper Mitcham Fair Green Start Mitcham Clocktower on Fair Green 1 MITCHAM CLOCKTOWER [GII listed] – Fair Green – erected in 1898 to commemorate the Diamond Jubilee of Queen Victoria; replaced the Village Pump; the clock never worked very well, most believe the well beneath affected the mechanism; the Clocktower was taken away for complete renovation during the pedestrianising of the Fair Green and was reinstalled in its current position in 1994 in the presence of the Mayor of Merton. 2 Site of VILLAGE PUMP – Market square, Fair Green – there was a pump on this site for several centuries; the last replacement was erected in 1865 and fitted with gas lights fed by the nearby gas works; a popular meeting place for loafers, orators, evangelists and local politicians, and the Salvation Army every Sunday; replaced by the Clocktower in 1898. 3 FAIR GREEN – evidence that there was a settlement around the green in Saxon times and probably as far back as Roman times; original site of Mitcham Fair since 16thC; the fair was allegedly given a Charter to operate there by Queen Elizabeth 1; it ran for 3 days in August every year, opened by the Mayor with the Turning of the Key ceremony; by 1923 it had grown too big for the space and was moved to Three Kings Piece. 4 THE WHITE LION OF MORTIMER PH former BUCKS HEAD PH [local listed] – London Road – evidence that inn has been on site since at least 16thC; in 17thC building owned by Smythe family whose coat of arms inspired the name Bucks Head; used for meetings of the parish ‘vestery’ before Vestry Hall was built in 1887; demolished in 1895 and current building erected; renamed the White Lion of Mortimer in 1990 in an effort to banish the bad reputation it had attracted; sadly this name had no connection with Mitcham and destroyed the link with the past – that a Bucks Head had occupied the site for over 400 years. 5 Site of LORD NAPIER PH – Majestic Way – private house on what was then known as Killicks Lane, thought to have started in mid-19thC when the Beerhouse Act 1930 allowed householders to retail beer from their houses (in an effort to wean them off the evil gin!!); also known as the Roaring Donkey; date of closure unknown, but the property was later George York’s funeral parlour until demolition in the mid 20thC. 6 Site of MAJESTIC CINEMA – Fair Green – built 1933 in Art Deco style; on the site of Ravensbury, an Edwardian ‘Tudor’ house occupied by James Drewett the undertaker; previously there had been a little “flea pit” in London Road showing silent movies; decline in cinema going saw the Majestic closing down in 1961; for next 14 years was a bingo hall and casino; demolished in 1979 and replaced with supermarket; when part of St Marks Road was pedestrianised it was renamed Majestic Way. 7 Site of OLD BEDLAM or OLD BETHLEHEM Majestic Way – a much older building had been on site of Ravensbury; built early 13thC it was a substantial building with several additions over the years; housed a succession of wealthy tenants; no records till 17thC; possibly run for a time as asylum for the insane (hence the name) but no records to substantiate this, apart from the unearthing of several skeletons from land that would have been at rear of house – speculated to be inmates of Old Bedlam such as suicides who would have been barred from burial in consecrated ground; demolished in 1854; Drewett built Ravensbury early 20thC. 8 Site of MONTROSE HOUSE, SAMSONS VET – rear of 25/27 Upper Green East – built late 19thC on land known as Jennings Yard; home in 1880’s of Frederick “Squeaker” Samson, local vet and farrier; entrance to back yard (now Montrose Gardens) had an arched board over Parks / Green Areas Water Church Post office ATM Cycle stand Train station Bus stop Tram stop Heritage Walks Upper Mitcham 1 41 Fair Green 1 38 Upper Mitcham & Growing Fields OS Map Crown Copyright 2011 All rights reserved: LB Merton 100019259 4 The White Lion of Mortimer employment in the herb gardens came to Mitcham in droves and many settled in the Phipps Bridge area in what is still known as Redskin Village.But Mitcham had been skirted by the expanding railway network, and was losing its popularity amongst the wealthier classes, attracting instead, more than its fair share of offensive industries – paint, varnish and lino manufacturers employing noxious processes. A gas works was established in 1849, and even the smell from the herb distilleries was becoming overpowering. Change was inevitable. 20/21st Century The old ecclesiastical parishes of the Church of England were being divided into smaller parishes, plus the growth of the Free Church and Non-Conformist movement saw other churches and chapels springing up. New parishes were formed to serve the spiritual needs of the many new estates being developed across Mitcham. In the first decade of the 20thC the population doubled, reaching 29,606. The growth of civic awareness, and the increasing complexity of local government responsibilities, called for an advance in administrative status, and the area of the ancient medieval parish was created the Urban District of Mitcham in 1915. Mitcham was granted Borough status in 1934, and by 1965 joined Wimbledon and Morden to become the London Borough of Merton (named after the 11thC Merton Priory – central to the borough) Historically, Mitcham has always had a reputation for merry-making, and was always first in line to celebrate important occasions. In the 21stC Mitcham continues to use any excuse to hold a celebration, and many events still take place throughout the year, including the Mitcham Status Fair and the Mitcham Carnival in June. This leaflet has been written and produced by The Mitcham Sociey and LB Merton, Future Merton Team: Civic Centre, London Road, Morden SM4 5DX The Mitcham Society and McDonalds, Mitcham, financed the printing of this leaflet [email protected]

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Page 1: one cham z r Labu t i M - London Borough of MertonLabu r num Est a t e & Home z one P P £ I ndust r ial Est a t e Chelsea F ields I ndust r ial Est a t e Abbey Industrial Estate Connaught

Roman/Saxon periodMitcham was identified as a settlement long before the Roman occupation of Britain, and by the 7thC, was the site of a thriving Saxon settlement. It is thought the inhabitants may have been encouraged to settle in the area to protect the approaches to the city of London from sea-borne raiders.

Settlements in the late Saxon and early Norman periods centred on the current greens – Upper Green (Fair Green) and Lower Green (Cricket Green) which even then were central to road networks (tracks) leading to surrounding villages.

Medieval/Tudor period By the 11thC there were six main estates in Mitcham held by tenants of King Edward the Confessor. These Saxon landowners were dispossessed by Norman nobles rewarded with English estates for their part in the Conquest.

From the mid 14thC there is evidence that wealthy merchants and bankers from the City of London were seeking estates in Mitcham, as a means of attaining the higher status of landowners. Thus by the 16thC Mitcham was becoming renowned for its good company. Also in its favour was its closeness to London and Royal Palaces, and its reputation for fresh air and pure water – both scarce in Tudor London. By the end of the 16thC many notable people had estates or land in Mitcham – too many to mention here, but important enough for Queen Elizabeth I to visit on five separate occasions.

By the 17thC Mitcham was a prosperous agricultural village with open fields in strip cultivation, extensive commons and water meadows. By the mid 17thC Epsom had become a Spa much favoured by Londoners. The road system had been improved and Mitcham was a busy thoroughfare for travellers and coaching parties, with many inns with stabling facilities for horses.

Georgian periodMitcham became best known in the 18thC for the cultivation of medicinal and aromatic herbs (which had actually started in the 14thC) but increased on an

industrial scale through innovative methods used by Ephraim Potter and William Moore. By 1802 nearly 500 acres of land in Mitcham supported herb growing. At the same time, textile processing industries in the River Wandle area with mills, printing and dye works were flourishing in the increased demand for coloured and printed fabrics, alongside flour, paper and snuff mills. Transport for goods and coal to serve the various industries was a problem, so the Surrey Iron Railway, the first public railway in the world, was opened in 1803 – running from Wandsworth, through Mitcham to Croydon.

Victorian period The mid-Victorian period saw Mitcham thriving. The local gentry were active in philanthropic activities to alleviate the lot of the poor. Mitcham Cricket Club, the oldest in the country, could field a team to take on all comers. The annual Mitcham Fair (said to be chartered by Queen Elizabeth 1) was looked forward to by everyone. Gypsies attracted by the Fair and

1 Eagle House

UpperMitcham heritage map

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Heritage Walks – Upper MitchamFair GreenStart Mitcham Clocktower on Fair Green

1 MITCHAM CLOCKTOWER [GII listed] – Fair Green – erected in 1898 to commemorate the Diamond Jubilee of Queen Victoria; replaced the Village Pump; the clock never worked very well, most believe the well beneath affected the mechanism; the Clocktower was taken away for complete renovation during the pedestrianising of the Fair Green and was reinstalled in its current position in 1994 in the presence of the Mayor of Merton.

2 Site of VILLAGE PUMP – Market square, Fair Green – there was a pump on this site for several centuries; the last replacement was erected in 1865 and fitted with gas lights fed by the nearby gas works; a popular meeting place for loafers, orators, evangelists and local politicians, and the Salvation Army every Sunday; replaced by the Clocktower in 1898.

3 FAIR GREEN – evidence that there was a settlement around the green in Saxon times and probably as far back as Roman times; original site of Mitcham Fair since 16thC; the fair was allegedly given a Charter to operate there by Queen Elizabeth 1; it ran for 3 days in August every year, opened by

the Mayor with the Turning of the Key ceremony; by 1923 it had grown too big for the space and was moved to Three Kings Piece.

4 THE WHITE LION OF MORTIMER PH former BUCKS HEAD PH [local listed] – London Road – evidence that inn has been on site since at least 16thC; in 17thC building owned by Smythe family whose coat of arms inspired the name Bucks Head; used for meetings of the parish ‘vestery’ before Vestry Hall was built in 1887; demolished in 1895 and current building erected; renamed the White Lion of Mortimer in 1990 in an effort to banish the bad reputation it had attracted; sadly this name had no connection with Mitcham and destroyed the link with the past – that a Bucks Head had occupied the site for over 400 years.

5 Site of LORD NAPIER PH – Majestic Way – private house on what was then known as Killicks Lane, thought to have started in mid-19thC when the Beerhouse Act 1930 allowed householders to retail beer from their houses (in an effort to wean them off the evil gin!!); also known as the Roaring Donkey; date of closure unknown, but the property was later George York’s funeral parlour until demolition in the mid 20thC.

6 Site of MAJESTIC CINEMA – Fair Green – built 1933 in Art Deco style; on the site of Ravensbury, an Edwardian ‘Tudor’ house occupied by James Drewett the undertaker; previously there had been a little “flea pit” in London Road showing silent movies; decline in cinema going saw the Majestic closing down in 1961; for next 14 years was a bingo hall and casino; demolished in 1979 and replaced with supermarket; when part of St Marks Road was pedestrianised it was renamed Majestic Way.

7 Site of OLD BEDLAM or OLD BETHLEHEM – Majestic Way – a much older building had been on site of Ravensbury; built early 13thC it was a substantial building with several additions over the years; housed a succession of wealthy tenants; no records till 17thC; possibly run for a time as asylum for the insane (hence the name) but no records to substantiate this, apart from the unearthing of several skeletons from land that would have been at rear of house – speculated to be inmates of Old Bedlam such as suicides who would have been barred from burial in consecrated ground; demolished in 1854; Drewett built Ravensbury early 20thC.

8 Site of MONTROSE HOUSE, SAMSONS VET – rear of 25/27 Upper Green East – built late 19thC on land known as Jennings Yard; home in 1880’s of Frederick “Squeaker” Samson, local vet and farrier; entrance to back yard (now Montrose Gardens) had an arched board over

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OS Map Crown Copyright 2011 All rights reserved: LB Merton 100019259

4 The White Lion of Mortimer

employment in the herb gardens came to Mitcham in droves and many settled in the Phipps Bridge area in what is still known as Redskin Village.But Mitcham had been skirted by the expanding railway network, and was losing its popularity amongst the wealthier classes, attracting instead, more than its fair share of offensive industries – paint, varnish and lino manufacturers employing noxious processes. A gas works was established in 1849, and even the smell from the herb distilleries was becoming overpowering.Change was inevitable.

20/21st Century The old ecclesiastical parishes of the Church of England were being divided into smaller parishes, plus the growth of the Free Church and Non-Conformist movement saw other churches and chapels springing up. New parishes were formed to serve the spiritual needs of the many new estates being developed across Mitcham. In the first decade of the 20thC the population doubled, reaching 29,606. The growth of civic awareness, and the increasing complexity of local government responsibilities, called for an advance in administrative status, and the area of the ancient medieval parish was created the Urban District of Mitcham in 1915. Mitcham was granted Borough status in 1934, and by 1965 joined Wimbledon and Morden to become the London Borough of Merton (named after the 11thC Merton Priory – central to the borough)

Historically, Mitcham has always had a reputation for merry-making, and was always first in line to celebrate important occasions. In the 21stC Mitcham continues to use any excuse to hold a celebration, and many events still take place throughout the year, including the Mitcham Status Fair and the Mitcham Carnival in June.

This leaflet has been written and produced by The Mitcham Sociey and LB Merton, Future Merton Team: Civic Centre, London Road, Morden SM4 5DX

The Mitcham Society and McDonalds, Mitcham, financed the printing of this leaflet

[email protected]

Page 2: one cham z r Labu t i M - London Borough of MertonLabu r num Est a t e & Home z one P P £ I ndust r ial Est a t e Chelsea F ields I ndust r ial Est a t e Abbey Industrial Estate Connaught

Industrial Schools and Workhouse being built on the other side of Western Road in the late 19thC; smells from the gas production were quite overpowering; site continued to operate until 1965 when gas production ceased due to use of North Sea Gas, and site became a service centre; closed in the mid 1970’s for redevelopments; most of the site has been cleared but the locally listed gas holder remains, awaiting demolition. (left at Mount Rd, cross Church Rd to Haslemere Ave)28 REMAINS OF PRIORY WALL – Phipps Bridge Road – built of flint with random ashlar stone from ruins of Merton Priory c17thC; in poor condition.29 END OF TERRACE FOLLY [local listed] – Everetts Place, Phipps Bridge Road – cottages erected 1824, probably for workers at nearby textile mills; gothic tower erected c1875 allegedly to prevent fifth cottage collapsing; now owned by National Trust.30 DEEN CITY FARM – Morden Hall Park – relocated from Church Road during re-modelling of Phipps Bridge estate in early 1990’s; on National Trust land.31 BUNCES MEADOW – Morden Hall Park – along with Linton’s Rushy Meadow were part of farm added to Admiral Lord Nelson’s estate in 1802; one-time water meadows and bleaching grounds; Bunce was farmer and stock dealer who leased land by Rucker’s Cut – later used for prize fights and related activities; also used as allotments with garden flowers gone wild; now owned by National Trust.32 Site of HARLAND’S JAPAN & VARNISH FACTORY – Brangwyn Crescent – just one of the many varnish works prolific in the area by the end of the 19thC; raw materials were volatile so there were often instances of fires and explosions right into the 1970’s; site sold to GLC as part of the original Phipps Bridge housing estate. (over

before clearance was stopped in 1939 because of war; substandard housing in Sibthorp, Fountain and Gladstone Roads was cleared in the 1970’s to make way for the Quadrant housing scheme, now named Sadler Close; this scheme received an award.39 Site of OLD NAGS HEAD PH – Upper Green West – now Holborn Way road; thought to be on the site of mid-18thC inn; demolished and rebuilt in 1903; further along in the parade of shops, in the 1870’s, one of the shops later to become Hutton’s Fish Shop displayed a sign – “Nothing Over 6d” (Mitcham’s first Pound Shop); Old Nags Head demolished in 1991 as part of pedestrianisation of Fair Green.40 THE KINGS ARMS PH [local listed] – London Road – rebuilt in 1900 in popular mock-Tudor style; replaced mid-18thC weather boarded inn which was owned in 1790 by Thomas Bowyer, father of one of Mitcham’s best-known cricketers; next door in what is now the pub garden, was a slaughterhouse and butcher.41 FAIR GREEN CAFÉ – Fair Green – built in the inter-war years in mock-Tudor style; originally Public Conveniences, but refurbished during the pedestrianisation of the Fair Green in 1993; it took some time for some Mitcham people to use a café that had formerly been a toilet.

Upper Mitcham & Growing FieldsStart Eagle House

1 EAGLE HOUSE [Grade 1 listed incl gates, railings] – London Road – Queen Anne style, built in 1705 on land belonging to Sir Walter Raleigh’s estate; occupied by Fernando Mendez who was physician to Charles II’s wife Queen Catherine; at this time Mitcham was attracting the wealthy and nobility from London because of reputation for fine air; 1711 leased to James Doliffe founder director of South Sea Co; 1766 John Bond a city banker; 1825 boarding school for young gentlemen run by James Dempster; 1850’s became part of the Holborn Union complex and sold in 1870 to Guardians of Holborn Union as part of workhouse complex; early 20thC was convalescence home; 1924 girls hostel; used for various educational purposes and ownership passed to LBM in 1965; building restored in 1976 for use as adult education centre; sold in 1987 and converted to offices; currently in use for private SEN education.

2 226 LONDON ROAD [local listed] – the only survivor of the Holborn Union complex; erected in 1892 with boys classrooms on ground floor and girls on the first floor; transferred to Surrey County Council in 1922 when it was known as London Road Boys School, and to LBM in 1965;

farming estate of the Manor of Ravensbury; 1923 land purchased by Thomas Mason and donated to Mitcham Urban Council as a gift to the community to provide a pleasure ground and allotments; first recreation ground in Mitcham to provide netball court; original chalet replaced by Childrens Centre in 2003; has been several changes over the years but still has most of the same facilities as the original complex and is well used and enjoyed by the community.

9 LONDON ROAD CEMETERY & CHAPEL [local listed] – land acquired after WW1 when burial grounds were becoming scarce; chapel built by Robert Masters Chart.10 FIGGES MARSH MILESTONE [GII listed] – London Road/Victoria Road – it is rumoured that this was removed during WW2 in case German planes landed on Figges Marsh and realized how close they were to London.11 Site of FIGGES MARSH TOLLGATE – junction London Road/Swains Lane – the turnpike gate at Figges Marsh was erected to avoid loss of revenue if the Merton gates were bypassed by those seeking to avoid payment of tolls; during race weeks the crush of impatient travellers caused many a scene; attempts to circumvent the gate frequently resulted in vehicles overturning or becoming stranded in the nearby pond – 19thC road-rage.12 Site of TOOTING OLD HALL – Woodley Close off London Road – land owned by Humphrey Waldo-Sibthorp; built mid 18thC on site of 17thC house said to be occupied by author Daniel Defoe in 1688; Tooting Workhouse was nearby; land originally in Tooting parish – transferred to Mitcham in early 20thC; surrounding land developed as housing in 1920’s and roads named Robinson, Pitcairn, Island, Friday and Crusoe to show the Defoe connection.13 FIGGES MARSH – named after William Figge who held nearby Pound Farm in sergeantry to the king in mid-14thC; boundary with medieval Biggins Farm estate on current Carlingford Gardens/Manship Road; rumoured that plaque victims buried here in 17thC but no records to substantiate this; as part of Mitcham Common land was used for grazing until 1923 when the Urban District Council assumed control of Figges Marsh along with other greens in Mitcham; mostly meadow until mechanical mowing became possible in 1930/40’s; used as allotments in both World Wars; outdoor gym and table tennis tables installed in 2009 by LBM with help from local Friends group.14 LITTLE GRAVENEY STREAM – Carlingford Gardens – the brook at Figges Marsh flowed from Pollards Hill to join the Graveney River near Tooting Junction Station; it was originally visible as an open stream, running

there was concern that new residents needed a local church to encourage them in God-fearing ways; building of St Barnabas Church started in 1906; the hall next door was started in 1908 and completed in 1909 and used for services until 1914 when the church was consecrated; the war intervened and the church was never completely finished (the North Aisle was never built)17 VICTORIAN/EDWARDIAN SHOP FRONTAGES – Streatham Road – known as the Grand Parade, and typical of the terraces of shops with flats above built to serve the new housing estates in North Mitcham – the Ballard Estate of Caithness, Park and Melrose, and further on the grid-patterned roads of the Links Estate (formerly Tooting Junction Golf Course); most of the frontages remain little changed.18 Site of PASCALL’S SWEET FACTORY – Streatham Road – following a fire at their Blackfriars works, Pascalls erected factory in Streatham Road in 1905; factory dominated North Mitcham with many local people working there and the smell of sweets covering the surrounding area; 1959 Pascalls joined the Beecham group who in 1964 sold their confectionary interest to Cadbury-Fry; rationalisation followed and within 7 years production had ceased and the works were awaiting demolition; Mitcham Industrial Estate now occupies the site.19 GORRINGE PARK PRIMARY SCHOOL – Sandy Lane – built in 1913 and known as Sandy Lane School.20 Site of TOOTING & MITCHAM FC – Sandy Lane – originally on land belonging to Gorringe Park estate in late 19thC; used from 1932 until 1990’s and now moved to The Hub at Bishopsford Road; site now housing estate with roads named after former players – Hasty, Slade and Stepney; Lavender forms part of the club badge.21 Site of MITCHAM STADIUM – Sandy Lane – originally planned as a greyhound stadium; Alfred Mizen used his influence to refuse permission for this; used for Irish football, rugby, exhibitions and displays; demolished in 1950’s and developed as Ormerod Gardens housing estate. (at end of Sandy Lane cross railway bridge to Grove Road)22 ACACIA INTERGENERATIONAL CENTRE – Grove Road – erected in 2010 on land formerly Eastfields Youth Centre; first purpose-built intergenerational centre in the country.23 Site of JAMES PAIN & CO FIREWORKS FACTORY – Acacia Road/Clay Ave – Pains came to Mitcham in 1870’s; sited on part of the East Fields and Stainbank Fields – well away from any houses because of the danger of explosions; major suppliers of employment during the ‘slump’ in 1920/30’s along with the Mizens; closed in 1966/7 and moved factory to Salisbury; site now Eastfields Housing estate; Acacia Road was called Firework

alongside Figges Marsh; culverted in early 20thC and only evidence of it now is the occasional manhole on the pavement.15 Site of BIGGINS FARM & GORRINGE PARK ESTATE – Gorringe Park Avenue – site of Biggin Farm in 15thC with land extending over what is now Streatham Road and east towards the current railway line; Biggin Grove house occupied by various owners during 16th/17thC including Sir Nicholas Carew, John Manship and Lord Redesdale (Lord Chancellor of Ireland); renamed Tamworth House in 1815; put on market several times without success so in 1821 Tamworth House was demolished and the land was put on market again as farm and occupied by tenants until late 1860’s; by then the farmhouse had gone and Gorringe Park House had been erected in popular Italianate style; by 1898 the house was owned by the Wilson family who were responsible for donating some of their land to erect St Barnabas Church; when Wilsons left, house used as Barbican Mission for Jews and the Naomi Home for Children; after WW1 in 1920’s the estate was sold off and house building in the area was completed.

16 ST BARNABAS CHURCH & CHURCH HALL [GII listed] – Thirsk Road – by the early 20thC housing was spreading out from the railway station at Tooting and

Heritage Walks – Lower MitchamFair Green (cont)

has been used for educational purposes ever since; currently Islamic centre.

3 BOND PRIMARY SCHOOL – Bond Road alley – named after John Bond who lived at Eagle House; extensive grounds allow pupils to practice gardening in the school allotment – a link to the past use of the site.

4 Site of HOLBORN UNION INDUSTRIAL SCHOOL & WORKHOUSE – London Road/Bond Road – extensive site purchased in 1870 by the Holborn Poor Law Union; already the site of Mitcham Industrial School run by the Guardians of the Poor Law Union of St George the Martyr Southwark since 1856; most of the land formerly part of Sir Walter Raleigh’s estate including Eagle House; large complex of impressive buildings; Mitcham Workhouse built 1885; during WW1 the workhouse was used as a military hospital and then used to house refugees from the Russian revolution; at the end of the war was mothballed pending a decision on its fate; in 1920’s used for industrial purposes including Mitcham Lavender furniture cream; by the 1980’s all the buildings had been demolished to make way for modern industrial units; the frontages onto London Road were demolished in the 1930’s to make way for Monarch Parade shops and flats.

5 Site of THE SWAN PH – London Road – erected c1808 for travellers from London going south, especially on Derby Day; extended in the 1890’s; demolished early 21stC and is now flats and a medical centre.

6 Site of POTTER & MOORE DISTILLERY – Eveline Road – by 1802 over 500 acres of land in North Mitcham had been given over to the cultivation of Lavender, Peppermint and many other herbs which were in demand across the country; Potter & Moore built their distillery overlooking Figges Marsh on what is now Eveline Road; the distillery was fed by one of the districts first artesian wells.

7 Site of THE POPLARS & BORDERGATE “HOMES FOR HEROES” – London Road/Lavender Ave – land overlooking Figges Marsh owned by Peter Waldo; The Poplars was Mitcham’s first workhouse from 1737 to 1782; 1825 Boarding Academy for young gentlemen; closed down after an outbreak of scarlet fever; demolished 1880’s; now part of Bordergate estate erected after WW1 as municipal ‘Homes for Heroes’; the Urban District Council of Mitcham was at the forefront of providing homes after the war; the estate was designed on the garden village principle and roads were given names recalling the plants grown in nearby physic gardens.

8 TAMWORTH RECREATION GROUND & ALLOTMENTS – London Road – land part of the

17 THREE KINGS PIECE – Commonside West – part of Mitcham Common until railway line divided it off in mid-19thC, remained grazing ground until 1923; from 1923 was the site of annual Mitcham Status Fair which had grown too large for the Fair Green; also site of various community events including annual Mitcham Carnival; a fruit hedge was planted on the eastern edge by local school children and Scouts in 2011.18 THREE KINGS POND – Commonside East – pond has existed for 350 years or more and referred to in early documents as “Heathernderry Pond” or “The Great Pond”; it is the oldest of the several ponds on Mitcham Common and fed by a stream running alongside Commonside East which has recently been reinstated; the approach to allow carthorses to drink can still be seen; the pond and surrounding area was completely refurbished in 2006 by LBM in partnership with Groundwork Merton; the pond attracts huge flocks of Canada geese, and heavy traffic on the adjacent road often has to stop to allow geese with their young families to cross the road.19 THE LAWN [local listed]– 4 Commonside West – 18thC Georgian house with weather boarded extension to rear; Robert M Chart’s home for 30 years; substantially renovated in 2010 after fire ravaged original building.20 NEWTON HOUSE [GII listed] – 1 Commonside West – mid-18thC; weather boarded barn at rear; believed to have been built for Edward Foster, a mill-wright; renovated 1983; currently offices.21 Site of FAIR GREEN METHODIST CHURCH – Upper Green East/Langdale Parade – designed by Sir

the gate with a horse’s skull fixed to it, advertising a horse slaughterhouse.

9 Site of GUTTERIDGES – Montrose Gardens/Upper Green East – corn and seed merchants shop built early 18thC on site of 13thC buildings; occupied by Gutteridge family from 1919; sold in 1969 to Barclays Bank who demolished site in 1970 and built the current bank.10 JOHN CHART’S SHOP [GII listed] – 55 Upper Green East – dating from early 1800, one of the few part weather boarded buildings left; corn and seed shop kept by John R Chart; 1932 acquired by Alfred Crisp & Son as boot and shoe repairs until 1990; converted to private home in 1991.11 CLARENDON HOUSE – 5 Commonside East – early 19thC weather boarded house; associated with the Chart family including John Chart – builder of Mitcham Parish Church, and Edwin his son – an architect, also his grandson John R Chart who kept the corn and seed shop nearby (#10)12 PROSPECT HOUSE [GII listed] – 9 Commonside East (adjoining no 11 also listed) – built late 18thC; home of Thomas Pratt where dissenting Protestants met to pray until Pratt built the Zion Chapel on Upper Green West; renovated in 1977; note the original Georgian fanlight above flush panelled door; until recently used as private school.13 ROSE COTTAGE – 13 Commonside East (entrance Esher Mews) – substantially rebuilt in 1977 and now virtually identical to its original Georgian form.14 THE THREE KINGS former PH – Commonside East – original 18thC building replaced in 1928 in popular mock-Tudor style; the pub closed in 2007 and reopened as restaurant; it’s not clear which three kings it takes its name from.15 ST THOMAS OF CANTERBURY RC PRIMARY SCHOOL – Commonside East – originally housed Mitcham Boys County Secondary School, opened by Surrey County Council in 1922 on the site of former Upper Mitcham Boys Council School.16 Site of BEEHIVE PH – Commonside East – in use as a pub until early 21stC; in very small bar that appeared to be converted front room; in WW2 pigeons were trained by Sgt Davidson for search and rescue operations by RAF; lofts of the Beehive pub were used for one of their fleets; Sgt Davidson was father of the current vet on Mitcham Fair Green; pub closed 2005 and converted to flats whilst retaining the original façade.

Gelder; erected 1908/9 on part of the old Elmwood estate at Upper Green; destroyed during an air raid in 1940 and never rebuilt; Langdale Parade of shops built in 1950’s now on site; a brick wall surrounding the site before the shops were erected, bore the date of 1664.22 Site of THE FIRS, ELMWOOD HOUSE – Langdale Parade/London Road – built around 1788; occupied by various well-to-do families until the extension of the tramways to Mitcham opened up the area to development potential; house demolished 1903 and Elmwood estate of Edwardian shops and houses were erected23 GLEBE COURT – London Road – built on the site of Glebe Villas on Wickford Lane (now London Road) on part of the parish glebeland; the villas were largely destroyed by a flying bomb in 1944; post-war the Glebe Court housing estate was erected by Mitcham Council.24 Site of LONDON HOUSE, WICKFORD LANE – now London Road – village emporium founded in 1830 and run by the Francis family from 1869; selling everything from tools and hardware to clothing and footwear; home of Tom Francis Jnr – local historian and amateur photographer who bequeathed his notes and slides to Mitcham Library when he died in 1953; London House was demolished in 1960’s to make way for Deseret House (supermarket)25 Site of DURHAM HOUSE – Upper Green West – built in 1722 as three storey house; from 1890 until it was demolished in 1971, was the headquarters of the local Conservative Association; site redeveloped to house supermarket; also still houses Conservative Association; constructed in Brutalism style popular in 1970’s.26 Site of ZION CHAPEL, BRITISH DAY SCHOOL – Raleigh Gardens/Western Road – built in 1818 to house dissenting Protestants meeting at Commonside East house led by Thomas Pratt; Zion Chapel with small burial ground; the Sunday School was erected next to the Chapel in 1819 and further extended in 1857 to provide accommodation for British Day School founded by the Non-Conformists; the school was closed at end of 19thC; Chapel closed in 1932 when a new Congregational Church was built on current site of Temple Gate Mews; the remains in the burial ground were removed to the new cemetery in London Road opposite Figges Marsh; buildings used as offices and warehouses until demolished in late 1980’s for current building, now used by Lidl supermarket.27 Site of GAS WORKS, ROMAN WELL – Western Road – Mitcham Gas Light & Coke Co was established in 1849 and started clearing the site to develop the gas works; during excavations in 1882 a Roman Well was discovered along with other artefacts, evidence of a thriving community on the site in the early Roman period; gas power was needed to serve the growing development of the Holborn

Liberty/Windsor Ave to riverside walkway)33 MERTON ABBEY MILLS – remains of textiles industry on River Wandle for many centuries; William Morris produced fabrics here in late 19thC; refurbished 1990 and now a craft/farmers market with shops and restaurants.34 WHEELHOUSE [GII listed] – now a pottery, with working watermill powering the potters wheel.35 COLOUR HOUSE [GII listed] – 17thC building, thought to be built using stone from the Priory Chapel nearby demolished in the dissolution; used by Arthur Liberty to dye silk fabrics in 19th/early 20thC hence the name; now a theatre.36 MERTON PRIORY, remains of CHAPTER HOUSE [Scheduled Ancient Monument] – built 12thC and was most influential monastery in Britain; demolished in the dissolution

– the remains of the Chapter House were excavated in the 20thC and are housed under Merantum Way. (back to Western Road)37 LIBERTY PRIMARY SCHOOL [local listed] – Western Road – formerly Western County Secondary; opened 1928; school has extensive grounds, which includes playgrounds, a field, an all–weather ball court, a beach and outdoor classrooms for Early Years Foundation Stage.38 SADLER CLOSE – on site of Gladstone & Fountain Roads – Most of Mitcham’s slums had been demolished

Road until at least the mid 1930’s.24 ST MARKS CHURCH OF ENGLAND ACADEMY – Acacia Road – formerly Eastfields Boys School opened in 1962; the Academy opened 2006; it is independently governed but state funded and free for students; managed by an Academy Trust rather than the local authority.25 THE GABLES – Tamworth Lane – first shown on OS maps 1895; succession of uses – home for elderly people, hostel for young homeless people, currently houses people with disabilities.26 Site of BRENLEY HOUSE – Cedars Ave – home of Farewell-Jones family for 40 years; sold to Surrey County Council in 1950; used as children’s home; passed to LBM in 1965; demolished in 1973; remaining land used as playing fields by Eastfields Boys School; by early 21stC had been sold for development of the Brenley Fields housing constructed in 2011.27 MITCHAM EASTFIELDS RAIL STATION – Eastfields Road – level crossing on road since 1868 when the railways were constructed; line was electrified in 1929; by the 1930’s with the increase in housing in the area, residents started lobbying for a station to serve the area but they were unsuccessful until the early 21stC when Network Rail finally agreed to install a station, the first new one to be built in the country since WW2; it opened in 2007 and has been very well used, giving residents a much needed link to central London.28 EASTFIELDS ALLOTMENTS – Eastfields Road – last remnant of the East Fields growing fields of Mitcham – now public allotments administered by LBM.29 RENSHAWS CORNER [1 & 5 GII listed] – London Road/Locks Lane – built 1750 by Oxtoby a local builder; two residences known as The Chestnuts and a dower house; partly used as boarding school for young ladies in 1850’s; part used as offices for Pains Firework factory; surrounding land bought by Renshaw & Co Ltd in 1920 housing confectionary factory which closed in 1980’s; factory site developed as housing; still known as Renshaws Corner.30 109/111 LONDON ROAD [GII listed] – pair of weather boarded cottages c early to mid-19thC; double pitched machine tiled roof to eaves; square headed doorways with moulded architraves; decorative timber aprons below windows; central stack.31 GARDENERS ARMS PH [local listed] – London Road – known as the Jolly Gardeners Beer Shop in mid 19thC; opposite was Manor Farm, home of James Moore from c1807 until 1851, and base for extensive cultivation of herbs and medicinal plants.

33 Merton Abbey Mills

23 Glebe Court

13 Figges Marsh

32 Site of POUND FARM, ELM NURSERY & ALFRED MIZEN MARKET GARDENS – London Road – the Mizens first set up business in 1868 in Grove Road (East Fields); took over Pound Farm site in 1893 calling it Elm Nursery after Elm House; large pond Armfield Crescent area filled in with spoil for Northern Line excavations and greenhouses erected; trade in aromatic herbs declining, so they concentrated on salad vegetables; shop set up in 1930 (Dreams); business declined in 1950’s and land urgently needed for housing; Elm Nursery housing estate erected and by 1962 Eastfields Boys School had been built on the remaining growing fields; last member of the Mizen family, Freda, died in 1980; the Mizens were pillars of local government and society, remembered at St Marks Church, Long Bolstead Rec and Alfred Mizen School.33 MITCHAM LIBRARY [local listed] – London Road – built in 1933 on land donated by Joseph Owen, a local builder, who also helped with costs of building work.34 Site of ELM HOUSE, DOWNE ROAD – substantial 16thC house with parts reputed to date from reign of Edward II; home of Waldo family in 18thC; early 19thC private school; 1850 acquired by Guardians of the Poor; demolished in 1894 after a fire; houses in Downe Road built in 1920’s along with the shopping parade in London Road, which still retains Art Deco frontages.35 Site of MITCHAM BATHS HALL – London Road/St Marks Road – built in 1933 in Art Deco style; public baths, washing facilities and swimming pool; in winter pool was boarded over for use as public hall; pool closed 1974; demolished 1986 to make way for road to multi-storey car park.36 ST MARKS PRIMARY SCHOOL [local listed] – originally the Mitcham School Board Elementary School built in 1884 and one of the first school buildings to be erected in Mitcham.37 LAMMAS AVE – end of St Marks Road – once part of the growing fields; derives name from the ancient practice followed by commoners ‘turning out’ their livestock to forage on the open fields at Lammas time, once the crops had been harvested.38 ST MARKS CHURCH [local listed] – designed by Robert Masters Chart and built on land donated by Edward Mizen in 1897; consecrated in 1901; Mizen family were committed church people and were actively involved in the community; church badly damaged by mine/bomb in 1940; repaired and reopened 1946; upgraded in 1980’s; new church hall built nearby in early 21stC. (back down Majestic Way to Fair Green)

18 Three Kings Pond