my works in glam january 2013 issue

7/30/2019 My works in GLAM January 2013 issue

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editor sindhu nair

chief fashion correspondent debrina aliyah

senior correspondents abigail mathias

ezdhar ibrahim ali

rory coencorrespondent ola diab

photographer rob altamirano

senior art director venkat reddy

deputy art director hanan abu siam

assistant art director ayush indrajith

senior graphic designer maheshwar reddy b

senior manager marketing zulfikar jiffry

assistant managers - marketing chaturka karandana

thomas jose

senior media consultant hasan rekkab

marketing research & support executive kanwal baluch

senior accountant pratap chandran

sr. distribution executive bikram shrestha

distribution support arjun timilsina

bhimal rai

basantha.p

publisher and editorinchief yousuf jassem al darwish

chief executive sandeep sehgalexecutive vice president alpana roy

vice president ravi raman

GLAM is pubLished by Oryx AdvertisinG cO. WLL.the contents of this pUblication are sUbJect to copYright and cannot be

reprodUced withoUt the express permission of the pUblisher and/or license holder.

all rights rest wi th datalog media solUtions. the pUblisher does not accept

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editiOn

EVENTS OF THE MONTH

COMING UP

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3/33

j.lOJust like

SAvE

VsSPLURGE

THE criSP cOOL Air

HAS HiT DOHA AND

WHiLE mOST Of USArE TEmPTED TO PULL

ON THE LEggiNgS

WiTH OvErSizED

SWEATErS, HErE

iS AN iDEA frOm

JENNifEr LOPEz TO

SPicE THiNgS UP.KEEP WArm WiTH

A LEATHEr JAcKET

fOr AN EvENiNg DO

WHErE yOU WiLL bE

mOSTLy iNDOOrS.

AND JAzz iT UP WiTH A

fEATHErED miNi SKirT.

JENNifEr LOPEzATTENDiNgcHANELS rUNWAy

SHOW AT PAriSfASHiON WEEK.SHES cArryiNgA SigNATUrEqUiLTED cHANELcLUTcH.

compiled by debrina aliyah

alice by temperleyleather jacket

- qr1850catherine

malandrino whitedress - qr2150

wide lapelcollar leatherjacket - qr595

feathered miniskirt - qr 175

two-waysling clutch - qr 95

pointy heels- qr150

moschinobag - qr 4750

all available from stradivarius

allavailablefroms

a

lams

tores

moschinopumps

- qr3895


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erickson beamon for theoutnet - gold-tone crystal

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esquivel - derby metallicleather brogues for qr960

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THErE iS NO bETTEr brAND TO rUN TO if yOU ArE

iN NEED Of A PicK-mE-UP. HOUSE Of HOLLANDS

LOUD AND bOLD PriNTS, NEON brigHT cOLOUrSAND A TOTAL mErry-mAKiNg vibE WHicH

ENcOmPASSES THE ALL LONDON cHic. THE brANDS

vivAciOUS PErSONALiTy iS rEfLEcTivE Of THE

DESigNErS LArgEr-THAN-LifE cHArm, A yOUNg

ENErgETic briTiSH LAD WHO firST cAPTUrED THE

ATTENTiON Of fASHiONiSTAS WOrLDWiDE WiTH

HiS cHEEKy STATEmENT TEES. henry hollandAmUSES US THiS iSSUE WiTH HiS STyLE POST

A cOLLEcTiON Of THiNgS THAT ArE rUNNiNg

THrOUgH HiS miND rigHT NOW.

by debrina aliyah


7/33

InspirationRight now the rich colours o the leaves on the trees is a source oinspiration. Autumn is such a beautiul season in the UK, the changingo seasons is so charming.

Destination

Hong Kong is a wonderul city ull o rich culture. I love the speed atwhich everything moves there and the thirst or inormation.

Favourite ModelThere are so many models who I consider to epitomise the Houseo Holland brand. My best riend, Agyness has always been a greatsupport to me and is obviously an amazing model. More recently, wehave worked with Eliza Cummings, Iggy Azalea and I have done ashoot with Pixie Geldo or a British newspaper.

Trend ObsessionFor me, a skinny black jean will always be a wardrobe staple. I wearthem all the time because they work with everything. I like wearingone statement piece. A blazer, shirt or t-shirt and a black jean and agood pair o shoes always pulls the look together.

Kicking o the Design ProcessWhen I am thinking about my next collection, I am always inspiredby the women around me. Each person in my lie gives me creativeideas. My grandmother inspired my FW 11 collection - she was soglamourous and would never answer the door without her lipstick on.

The creation o a new collection is always an exciting process. Thereare so many people involved rom conception to completion and whenwe see the complete collection coming together, it is a real buzz.

Favourite Items rom Current CollectionsFrom A/W, the zig-zag oversized coat was probably my avourite pieceand my avourite look rom S/S13, is the tie-dye shirt with printedleather mini-skirt.

The Perect MuseI dont think there needs to be one speciic muse. I would like to seeanyone who appreciates my collection wearing the pieces.

What is the one thing you would like to see women wearing this all?House o Holland o course!

A collection of things that arerunning through his mind right now.

STyLE POST /35


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ALEGACY

CALLEDHARRODS

iT WAS ONcE A cHArmiNg NEigHbOUrHOOD

grOcEry STOrE. TODAy iT iS ONE Of THE

mOST DiSTiNgUiSHED gLObAL brAND NAmES

iNTErTWiNED WiTH THE HiSTOry Of LONDON ciTy.

by debrina aliyah


9/33

the famous brompton roadterracotta facade

designed by c.w. stephens.

HEriTAgE /43

was once a charming and quaint neighbourhood grocerystore, simply named Harrod & Co. Grocers, supplying the

local community with resh produce and tea. Today, it isone o the most distinguished global brand names, be-coming an iconic institution that is synonymous and in-tertwined with the history o London city. But much morethan just a store, Harrods is the keeper o a thousand sto-ries curated by its various illustrious owners, and the cus-tomers who continue to live the legacy.

The story is almost airy tale-like. The humble beginningso one man has spanned into a global conglomerate inthe colossal time rame o nearly two centuries. Step into

Harrods today, and there will be no less tourists happilyclicking away on their cameras to capture their visits to thestore, or earnestly buying momentos to bring home. Theold-world charm o the original grocer has de initely livedon, the ounding ather himsel Charles Henry Harrodi


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all images are courtesy of harrods. follow the officialharrods pinterest account to learn more about theirhistorical journey.

the china room the french room

would be a smiling man were he alive today to see theestivities.

Ater various grocer and tea ventures, Harrods son,Charles Digby Harrod, inally settled into a single room in

the district o Brompton, wherehe began building the legacy.The single room soon expandedto include adjoining buildings,orming the building where themodern day departmental storeis located. Harrod specialisedin a retail operation tradingmedicines, perumes, reshproduce and stationery. Evenwith a major setback when thestore was blazed by a ire in 1883,the determined man quickly gotback onto his eet to revive the

business. It was a smart businessstrategy that played to the heartso his customers, ulilling hisChristmas orders despite thetragedy that beell the store.The successul venture turned arecord proit and a new structuresoon came into place on thesame site. Harrods thrived andthe store became a avourite

with many legendary namesincluding Charlie Chaplin,

Oscar Wilde, Sigmund Freud, Gertrude Lawrence andEllen Terry - all whom have lent their sparks to the historyo Harrods.

In 1889, Charles Digby Harrod retired and the companyshares was loated on the London Stock Exchange. Britishdepartment store holding company House o Fraser thenbought Harrods in 1959. In 1985, the Fayed brotherscame into possession o Harrods ater purchasing Houseo Fraser. Harrods was always in the media spotlightthereater because o the Fayed brothers and their personalendeavours.

The modernday store occupies a 5-acre site and hasover one million square eet o selling space making it thebiggest department store in Europe. In the rise o the age oconsumerism, Harrods attained cult status especially orsome stellar departments including the Food Hall and thespecial Christmas department. The entire store is madeup o 330 departments and truly embodies the meaning oall under one roo.

The French Room and the International Designers Room

The French Room was opened in the 1950s, as a showcaseor haute couture, an elegant and classy room dedicated tothe artistic works o the ashion designers rom the era. TheFrench Room today has expanded to the whole o Harrodsirst loor and is dedicated to designer womenswear. Anew International Designers Room has also been addedrecently to include a repertoire o exciting designers romall over the world including the Middle East. This move isa nod to the unmistakable inluence o ashion and designin contemporary retail. As Harrods is registered with

the English Heritage as a 19th century historical site, alladditions and renovations are meticulously undertakento both preserve the historical value o the space and tointroduce modern inluences.

The modern daystore occupies

a five-acre siteand has over one

million square

feet of sellingspace makingit the biggest

department storein Europe.

4


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HEriTAgE /45

the newly added retailconcept with a focuson qatar, in-q is aventure by qma

The Qatar LinkHarrods is currently owned by Qatar Holding, theinvestment arm o the State o Qatar and the spirit oHarrods motto Omnia Omnibus Ubique - All Thingsor All People Everywhere lives on. Since taking overin 2010, Qatar Holding has introduced a multitude oinnovations to the department store, bringing in moreinternational colours and lavours to project a truly globalessence. Reurbishments to many departments wereundertaken including the Beauty Apothecary, Tom Fordboutique, Berluti boutique, Manolo Blahnik boutique,The Mens Shoe Salon, Luxury Accessory Rooms,Designer Accessory Rooms, The Fine Watch Room, andThe Gourmet Cookshop. The new direction also openedup opportunities or many new Middle Eastern ashiondesigners and brands to showcase their talent to theirworld, including Qatars very own label Toujouri. QatarHolding has also announced plans to open Harrods in

China and introduction o Harrods Hotel, the irst one tobe launched in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.The Qatar Museums Authority (QMA) also introduced

a new innovative store in Harrods, In-Q , a retail conceptthat oers a unique insight into the diverse culture, arts,and crats o Qatar. The store provides a comprehensiveexperience, where traditional arts and crats, books,Islamic clothes, jewellery, and merchandise rom Qatarsworld-class museums will be on show and available orpurchase.

Interesting Facts about Harrods

1 Harrods was the irst building in Europe and England tointroduce the modern day escalator, then simply knownas the moving staircase. It was launched on 16 Novem-

ber 1989, and was a device that resembled a conveyorbelt made o leather, mahogany and glass.

2 The world-amous Christian the Lion, who capturedhearts worldwide in a touching story o unbreakablebond between the animal and its human owners, wasoriginally kept in Harrods. Harrods bought the cub to bedisplayed in the store beore sell-ing it o to John Rendall and AceBourke.

3 Winnie The Pooh, the amous ic-tional bear character, was actuallyinspired by the Harrods Bear. In1921, A.A. Milne bought the Har-rods bear or his son who namedit Winnie The Pooh. A.A. Milnethen went on to write the wildlysuccessul children series WinnieThe Pooh.

4

A replica o the Charles Harrodsoriginal little Victorian shop wasbuilt in the store to celebrate itsirst centennial in 1949 and canstill be viewed on the groundloor.

5 Other than the globally rec-ognised department store, Har-rods group o companies includean interesting portolio o busi-

ness. Air Harrods oers VIP helicopter charter andmanagement services; Harrods Aviation oers aircrathandling services; Harrods Estates specialises in sales,leasing, management and acquisitions o properties,and Harrods Bank is the inancial arm o the group.

The QatarMuseumsAuthority alsointroduced anew innovativestore inHarrods,


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by debrina aliyah

sbfashiOn

mANy A TimES WE fiND OUrSELvES DiScArDiNg

gArmENTS WE HAvE bArELy WOrN WiTHOUT giviNg iT

A SEcOND THOUgHT iN PUrSUE Of THE NExT iT THiNg.

fOcUS / 49


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fOcUS /49

yoursel into the world o style and trends, too many a times we ind ourselves discardinggarments we have barely worn without giving it a second thought in pursuit o the nextIT thing.The ast ashion phenomenon is one that we are all amiliar with delighted atacquiring new pieces at bargain prices and easily orgotten just because it was cheapand easily available. While we celebrate the accessibility and convenience o the mass,it is undeniable that it has resulted in many trade and ethical issues rom actory workerwages to copyright inringement. Taking time out to truly embrace the process o

creation with a compassionate perspective may be considered an idealist view in theindustry, but designer Sarah Elenany is ready to plough through with her steadastbelies and creative ammo.

Based in London, the ounder o thr eponymous label Elenany, strikes down allstereotypes one might have o a Muslim woman in a hijab. With a charming andeervescent personality combined with the edge o the London street ashion hype,Sarah produces collections that are quirky yet classic - designs that immediately strikea chord with the ashion set. Capes, wide-legged pants, and high collars brings about avision o a designer set in the uture, and yet, retaining the most important element thathas been unconsciously and subtly incorporated, modesty. Modesty, not only in design

but in the production process also, where Sarah takes a irm stand on sustainable andethical clothing.

Tell us more about your interesting philosophy in design.My design philosophy is about designing original, beautiul clothing that will have

iMMersinG

50 \ fOcUS


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a long lie span both stylistically and unctionally. It isdriven by two actors, sustainability and value. Firstly, theproblem with ast ashion is that while the customer getsa great price or what they are buying - it also means thatthe cost o production or these garments is extremely low.This means that the people who make the clothes get paidalmost next to nothing. Fast ashion works on the premiseo low-quality clothing with a short lie span because it willbe soon replaced by a new trend. So, as well as perpetuatingunethical labour costs, it also encourages a lot o materialusage to sustain the constant demand o new styles.

Secondly, my design philosophy is driven rom a val-ue-or-customer perspective.When I was 17, I bought agreat coat by Michiko Koshi-

no and I wore it every winteror the next 5 years (I stillhave it and still wear it oc-casionally). The quality othe design was so good thatit was a timeless originalincomparison to something in-trend I had bought previous-ly and could only wear or aew months until it went out

o ashion. Being a customero ashion, I appreciated thismassively and wanted mycustomers to eel the sameappreciation or my prod-ucts. Hence the emphasis ison designing original piecesthat are made to last.

Do you ind it diicult in termso production, manuacturingand inding supportinrastructure that is in line

with your sustainable philosophy? What about costs?The great thing about getting the clothes made locallyin London is that there are lots o CMT (Cut Make Trim)actories set up in London that can make what you need,regardless o quantities. However, it does increase costsand drives down proits but maintaining this philosophy is

important to me and I eel it is the right thing to do.

Where do you draw inspirations rom in your design process?How much o your heritage inluences your work?My heritage plays a massive part in inluencing my work.

When I started the brand it was graphic-based with lots oprints and themes inspired by Palestine. The prints werevery angular too this was a nod to geometric Islamicart which I love and that which was sparked by a trip toMorocco where Islamic art is used everywhere. Althoughthe brand is not so graphic-based now, the silhouettes othe clothing remain bold and strong, as a continuation othe brands origins.

I also have other inluences I am a big an o sci-i,cartoons and most o all, Japan. Not consciously, its justthat when I thought about it, a lot o the things I like comerom Japan. Sometimes I create more tailored versionso what some o my avourite Japanese characters wear!Having said that, Ive noticed that Yohji Yamamoto alsodoes this taking traditional Japanese styles and detailing

like samurai trousers and then giving them an edgy twist.I also love how un Tokyo street style is how they mixup traditional Japanese and western styles that create aunique and un look.

How do you eel more women in hijab can be empoweredand encouraged to enter the world o ashion that is usuallyconsidered vivacious?I think its mainly the marketing side o the ashionindustry that might put o hijabi women, but there are

many areas that hijabi women can partake in ashion andstay true to their belies. For example hijabis can specialisein outerwear design or textile design or print design oraccessories design the actual practical product elemento the industry rather than the very sexualised marketingside, which I must admit, makes me uncomortable attimes.

What have been some memorable times and diicult times

that you have had in your journey so ar as a ashion designer?One o the most memorable times was when I was short-listed or Young Fashion Entrepreneur o the Year in 2010,or the innovative nature o my brand, which meant I got todo a tour o the Indonesian ashion industry.

There have been lots o diicult times, particularly withthe entrepreneurial element o running your own label.I very much consider mysel a designer and being anentrepreneur is something that I have had to work reallyhard at, but it has made me a better person proessionally

and personally.

elenanys collection is available online athttp://www.elenany.co.uk/

50 \ fOcUS

My designphilosophy is

about designingoriginal,

beautifulclothing that

will have a longlife span both

stylistically and

functionally.


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lisa

mareescollecti

on

isavailable

onlineatnet-a-porte

rand

asos.

cOpiA FAshiOn dAyslisa maree is one of many designers representedby copia fashion days, a new pop-up concept tointroduce new exciting designers to the middleeast region. initiated by dubai-based copiagroup, the pop-up showroom took its band ofdesigners to the recent paris fashion week toshowcase their ss13 collections. the group ofdesigners come from a diverse range ofbackground and design influences - coveringthe full range of fashion offerings fromapparels to accessories. among the designerswho showed at the paris showroom were rutherotikritou, lumete, shana london, miriamsalat, marena y sol, gr in by anne gedeon, an dcolin heaney.

blood orangedress by temperleylondon - qr 4495

blood orangedress by temperleylondon - qr 4495

fASHiON / 53


16/33

fASHiON /53

nature

is theMuse

he designer brings together an unusualpairing, the crochet technique in swimwear,earning her the title Queen o Crochetin the industry. Her collection has now

expanded to include resort ready-to-wearpieces and is a rm avourite with celebritiesworldwide including Rihanna, KourtneyKardashian and Vanessa Hudgens. LisaMaree presented her Spring Summer 2 013collection in Paris Fashion Week with CopiaFashion Days and GLAM caught up with the

beautiul designer or a quick chat.

Tell us the creation process behind your collection. Does the beach liestyle

o Australia play a part in inuencing your designs?The beach and gorgeous sunsets over the ocean in this part o theworld are phenomenal, and just simply being there, being a part othe wonder o mother nature is special, and o course inspiring, itenables me to take snippets o the gorgeous views and bring in that

vibe throughout my work.

How has your journey been as a designer breaking into in ternationalmarkets? Is it dicult that you have to reverse your collection process

due to diference in seasons?I launched internationally at Miami Swim Show two years ago, thelaunch was a complete success and was the catalyst or Net-a-Porterpicking up Lisa Maree, being the rst brand to be stocked by Net-a-Porter on its launch within the USA. The reverse seasons work wellor me, we fow rom one continent to another all year round whichmakes it a smooth and fuid process.

Australian designers have long been regarded as designers with an extracool quotient. How do you think the Australian ashion edge is diferent

rom the rest o the world?I know that Australians tend to be less conservative with our ashionsense - we are more inclined to try new things and think outside thebox. This fows through into a designers collection and gives us theedge that is refected in Australian ashion.

SWimWEAr iS ONE Of THE TricKiEST DESigN

PrOcESSES iN THE iNDUSTry, bUT AUSTrALiAN mODEL

TUrNED fASHiON DESigNEr LiSA mArEE HAS HiT HOmE

rUN iN cAPTUriNg THE NicHE WiTH cOLLEcTiONS

AfTEr cOLLEcTiONS Of UNiqUE PiEcES THAT WEWiSH iT WAS SUmmEr ALL-yEAr rOUND.

t

by debrina aliyah


17/33

takeCOvERfOr A briEf mOmENT, WE TAKE A

brEAK frOm THE HArSH DESErT

SUN Of DOHA AND WELcOmE

THE cOLD WiNDS. DO NOT briNg

OUT yOUr grANNy SWEATEr

JUST yET, WE PrESENT THE

LATEST cOATS AND JAcKETS TO

mAKE SUrE yOU STAy STyLiSH

AND WArm.

fashion editor: carla mallariphotographer: rob altamirano

make up: debi mendezhair: jean louis david

models: maila torres and isabel rua of trinity talent qatarstyling assistant: zara otho

concept: debrina aliyahlocation: st regis doha

all multi-brand apparel available at salam stores

fASHiON / 59


18/33

fASHiON /59

dress (balmain)jacket (elie tahari)

coat (donna karan)


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shoes (brian atwood)


20/33

jacket (preen)jumpsuit (donna karan)

skirt and coat(prabal gurung)


21/33

(prabal gurung)shirt (preen)

fASHiON /63


22/33

top & skirt (moschino)skirt (elie tahari)

shoes (etro)

coat (givenchy)dress (catherinemalandrino)


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malandrino)

STyLE PrOfiLE /65


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1persOnAL styLem . i . i . i . i . o i 100%, i !

2tOte by LOve MOschinOt

i . t !

3bArOque cLutch by MAnGOi . i

.

4red puMps by d&Gi d&g ! t .

t .

5cOLOured scArvesi t

. i .

6FAtiMAs hAnd pendAntt . i

!

7textured WrAp rinG by hOuse OF hArLOWi . a i . t .

A LONg-TimE rESiDENT Of qATAr,

cHANTAL mOSSESS WAS A grADUATE iN

fASHiON DESigN AND HAS DAbbLED iN

vAriOUS vENTUrES bEfOrE fiNDiNg HErcrEATivE THUmb iN fiLm PrODUcTiON.

THE ArmENiAN bEAUTy LETS US TAKE A

PEEK iNTO HEr STyLE fiNDS.

FOLLOW YOUR

PERSONAL

stylesenior produce r at studio adabisc



25/33

bEAUTy /79


26/33

FOrever yOunGhelena rubinsteinprodigy tiss serum 40ml

ysl forever youthliberatorlancome serumantiridesguerlain abeille royalerangeguerlain super aquaserum(all available at salamstores)


27/33

FAncy benedictmake up foreverpaillettes glitters

AFternOOn teA

eyelashes by inglot andjoyme sticker eyelinerson grapefruitm.a.c viva glam 3 mattelipstick stainm.a.c prolong wear spf 10foundation overspillm.a.c brushes 190, 187, 191.


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dOWntiMebubble bath colouredby m.a.c pigmentcolour powder


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edibLe inKm.a.c vegas volt

m.a.c lady bugm.a.c girl about town

m.a.c russian redm.a.c ravishing

loreal double wear redchanel coco rouge

gabrielle


30/33

artEXPLORED

THE cULmiNATiON Of bEAUTy,

mAKEUP AND PHOTOgrAPHy

by debrina aliyah

cArOLine: my inspiration was betweenthe sophistication of a geisha andmarilyn monroes retro style. i wantedthe result to be sophisticated, pure and alittle bit romantic with the pink colour. ihad the idea of soda cans for theanecdotal side of the image.

rAnKin: i really believe in beauty beingcompletely subjective. it is a fact of lifethat we are now surrounded by images ofwhat brands, magazines and fashioneditors think beauty is or should be. butto me somebody with a great laugh an dsparkling eyes is still more attractive tome than a stick thin 15 year old whodoesnt want to be there and in allhonesty - shouldnt h ave to be!

fASHiON /85

cArOLine: my inspiration wasthe veil and how to rec reate thetransparency of a thin material suchas lace or fishnet wi th make up. dotsseemed to me, modern and interesting


31/33

from an optical point of view, whileleaving a bit of mystery to the face bythe illusion of tran sparency.

crOSSiNg bOUNDAriESAND brEAKiNg

cONvENTiONAL

cONcEPTiONS Of bEAUTy,two maestros from their respective professions come together to

create visions of magnifice nt aesthetics. visually enticing, the result is

one that draws the audienc e into a fantasy world where the lines ofprevailing fashion, style and beauty are blurred. documented into a

beauty book, the collaboration between photographer rankin and make-up artist caroline saulnier is part of a three-series artistry book whererankin captures the best out of individual artists. in caroline saulniers

edition, she explores the unique and the imperfections in her models -playing with the concept of light and darkness to portray her own

definitions of beauty. glam selects snippets of the work of art from thebook and discusses inspirations and thoughts with the two artists.

86 \ fASHiON

bEAUTy /86


32/33

cArOLine: the theme ofthe skull has inspired alot of fashion andjewellery designers. thisgave me the idea to fo llowthis trend with swarovskifor a luxurious touch incontrast with the trashyatmosphere

fASHiON /87

THE cONcEPTOf bEAUTy


33/33

cArOLine: the idea wasto work on movementaround the eyes assprawling lashes. i chosefeathers for theirlightness with a slightbreath of air and thecolour red for a moredramatic touch.

working on the project, rankins role was tophotograph and capture the emotions andconcepts that caroline wanted to exud e. ipretty much give caroline free-reign overthe project. the concepts and researchbehind the shoots are all hers. she wouldshare her ideas with me and i worked with herto bring out the right mood in the image, andof course to light it beautif ully, rankinsays. carolines 25 years of experience ineditorial and commercial campaigns hasgiven her an in-depth understanding of thefield. beauty in todays world of fashion is areal added value. you can see it very well inmagazines and on catwalks. cosmeticsbrands compete to offer collections asdesigners do. they are innovative in bothcolours and textures. beauty has become anaccessory to complete a silhouette andassert a persona lity, she says.

my works in glam january 2013 issue

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